Fashion Business Journal by Dale De Mari

Fashion Journal Intro to Fashion Business Fall 2013 By: Dale De Mari

Table of Contents Entry # 1 ……………………………………………………3 – 5 Entry # 2 ………………………………………………….. 6 – 8 Entry # 3 …………………………………………………… 9 – 11 Entry # 4 …………………………………………………. 12 -‐ 13 Entry # 5 …………………………………………………… 14 – 16 Entry # 6 ……………………………………………………… 17 – 19 Entry # 7 ……………………………………………………… 20 -‐ 24 Entry # 8 ……………………………………………………… 25 -‐ 26 Entry # 9 ……………………………………………………… 27 – 28 Entry # 10 ……………………………………………………… 29 -‐ 31 Entry # 11 ……………………………………………………… 32 Entry # 12 …………………………………………………… 33 -‐ 34 Entry # 13 ……………………………………………………… 35 -‐ 36 Entry # 14 ……………………………………………………… 37 – 40 Entry # 15 ……………………………………………………… 41

Entry # 1 – Women’s Wear Daily – Rimmel Puts Focus on the Eyes – October 29th, 2013 The cosmetics industry has been slowing decreasing in sales this year. Rimmel on the other hand is growing its business faster than any other cosmetics manufacturer. For the first 6 months of 2013, Rimmel’s sales are up 25% and the company is the fastest growing cosmetics brand, two years in a row. According to Rimmel, they base their increased sales by their ability organically grow the brand with edgy advertising and focusing on mascara. The theme for make-up in 2014, especially eye make-up, is retro and matte. Mascaras are driving Rimmel’s growth. According to Rimmel’s marketing VP, the company is the 4th largest mascara brand. I chose this article because I have noticed the emphasis on eyes this winter and how much of an impact eye make-up is going to make in 2014 trends. Rimmel is smart, they are growing their business by choosing to connect with their target market’s / audience’s needs. Enhancements in product design and features are what help keep customers loyal and attract new customers to your brand.

October 29, 2013

Rimmel Puts Focus on the Eyes By FAYE BROOKMAN javascript:void(0); NEW YORK — At a time when the mass-market cosmetics industry is hitting a speed bump, Rimmel is kicking into high gear. Color cosmetics sales for the 52 weeks ended Aug. 11 rose only by an average of 3 percent for face, lip, nail and eye, according to IRI data across all mass-market doors. Rimmel sales, according to the brand’s senior marketing director, David Cole, are up 20 percent to 25 percent as the company marks its 180th anniversary. “We are the fastest-growing brand two years in a row,” Cole said during an event held on Oct. 22 at The Lion in the West Village here, where makeup artist Kirstin Piggott applied the latest looks to Rimmel model Georgia May Jagger. Cole said the growth is organic — and not just through door expansion — and he credits it to edgy advertising campaigns featuring Jagger as well as innovative products serving consumer needs. The overall theme for 2014 is retro and matte. Piggott even mentioned Twiggy while applying mascara to Jagger’s lashes. The new products will be in stores early next year. Cole said mascaras are driving overall Rimmel growth, noting Eugene Rimmel improved upon the concept 180 years ago with a nontoxic lash enhancer that evolved into modern day mascara. Rimmel now ranks as the fourth-biggest mascara brand in mass, said Cole. To keep the momentum building, Rimmel’s latest innovation in mascara is Scandal Eyes Retro Glam Mascara, which is the first of Rimmel’s mascaras to launch in four shades: black, extreme black, waterproof black and carbon black. An hourglass-shaped brush is designed to plump up volume and fan out lashes without clumps. The mascara retails for $6.99. Keeping with eyes, Cole also showed a new Scandal Eyes Thick & Thin Eyeliner 4

and Scandal Eyes Precision Micro Eyeliner priced at $5.99 each. An existing gel eyeliner has been tweaked based on consumer feedback to include a thin brush to blend and layer during application. Four shades are available at $5.99 each. Also updated for 2014 are the Glam’ Eyes HD Shadows, now in a fivepan design in highly pigmented colors retailing for $4.99. The final new eye product is Shadow Paint, a cream formulation that Piggott said is easy and forgiving to work with, yet will stay on all day. There are 12 shades priced at $5.49 each. For the face, Cole said Rimmel will continue to offer foundations and BB creams for different audiences. “We find there is a younger audience that maybe doesn’t wear foundation, but prefers a BB cream. But we also have customers who want their foundation so we offer both,” he said. Taking a cue from fashion runways, Rimmel’s direction for 2014 is based around matte looks. Stay Matte Liquid Mousse Foundation provides a velvety finish without shine. It retails for $5.49. The BB Cream Matte is what Cole calls a ninein-one product that offers shine control and matte finish designed to even skin tone, smooth and conceal. From a skin-care perspective, the Cream Matte minimizes pores, soothes the skin and prevents blemishes. Two shades are available at $6.99 each. The Stay Matte Primer is another new item and can be worn alone, under or over makeup, said Cole. The primer retails for $6.99. Other face items include a Stay Blushed Liquid Cheek Tint in five shades for $3.29 and Sun shimmer Maxi Bronzer for $5.99. “Our Bronzer is number one in the market,” said Cole, a statistic supported with IRI data that pegs it at more than a 10 percent share. Finishing off the face, Rimmel offers Show Off Lip Lacquer with a unique doefoot applicator that features a micro reservoir to help put the perfect amount of lacquer within the wand. It comes in 14 shades and costs $5.99 each. For nails, Rimmel has 60 Seconds Nail Polish with a flat brush designed to cover the nail in a single stroke. Available in 27 shades, the polishes cost $1.99 each.

Entry # 2 – Wall Street Journal Article – Strong Euro Hit Luxury Goods Sector – 10/28/13 The luxury goods business has experienced an increase in sales due to consumer confidence in the economy. Currently, the Euro is strongest in relation to U.S. dollar and Japanese Yen, which make up the two largest currencies in the luxury goods market. The sector is expected to bring in [euro] 217 billion ($299.6 million) in sales this year. This is a 2% increase at current exchange rate and 6% growth at constant exchange rates. The problem is the euro is extremely negative for companies in the luxury goods sector when they go to do their balance sheets. The world’s most known and sold luxury goods are European. When these companies convert their sales from outside revenue outside of Europe, their growth is weighed down. Luxury brand Louis Vuitton earlier this summer raised its prices in Japan because of the Yen’s exchange rate. Immediately, Vuitton saw an immediate drop in sales. This is all very interesting because last year the story was completely different. The fluctuations in currency exchange rates actually helped boost overall growth in the luxury goods sector. Moving forward, it is important for these brands to have an evenly distributed presence among different markets. This will help when fluctuations happen with exchange rates.

Entry # 2 – Wall Street Journal Article – Strong Euro Hit Luxury Goods Sector – 10/28/13

The Wall Street Journal Strong Euro Hits Luxury-Goods Sector Mesco, Manuela. Wall Street Journal (Online) [New York, N.Y] 28 Oct 2013 MILAN--The strong euro is taking the shine off the luxury-goods industry this year. The euro's strength against the U.S. dollar and the Japanese yen--the currencies of two of the biggest luxury-goods markets--is estimated to dent the industry's worldwide growth by four percentage points this year, according to a Bain & Co. report released Monday. The sector is expected to bring in [euro]217 billion ($299.6 million) in sales this year--a 2% increase at current exchange rates and 6% growth at constant exchange rates, according to Bain research presented in Milan with Italian industry association Altagamma. The strong euro is "totally negative for a large number of companies in the sector as their consolidated balance sheet is in euro," Bain analyst Claudia D'Arpizio said Monday. The world's largest luxury-goods companies are European, so they convert their revenues outside of Europe into Euros, which weighs down their growth. The impact already is evident in the latest sales reports. Gucci parent Kering SA last week posted a 1.5% decline in third-quarter revenue, citing foreign-currency effects. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA said the strong euro caused sales to decline at its core fashion and leather-goods division, home to labels such as Louis Vuitton and Celine. Andrea Guerra, the chief executive of Luxottica Group SpA, which makes eyewear for brands including Giorgio Armani and Chanel, said this month that the company is dealing with "unbelievable currency fluctuations" this year in countries such as the U.S. Luxottica is due to report its third-quarter results on Tuesday. LVMH boss Bernard Arnault in January warned that 2013 could be marked by "currency wars and competitive devaluation" amid a strong euro.

The picture is different from last year, when currency fluctuations boosted overall growth. Sales increased 10% at current exchange rates, and rose 5% at constant rates compared with 2011, according to Bain. The yen is expected to be down around 20% against the euro by year-end, according to Bain. The Japanese have started to buy more at home at lower prices and less during their travels, particularly in expensive European countries, said Bain's Ms. D'Arpizio. The dollar also has weakened against the euro, and is expected to reach a 3% decline by yearend, Bain said. Luxury-goods sales have performed well in the U.S. this year, thanks to regained consumer confidence, which could partially offset the currency impact. Luxury-goods companies constantly tinker with prices outside their home currency to offset foreignexchange fluctuations. For example, Louis Vuitton raised its prices in Japan this summer--a move that caused spending to immediately drop, the company said this month. The strong currency swings are increasing the importance of having a balanced presence throughout the markets. Companies can limit their currency risk by not depending solely on any one region, Ms. D'Arpizio said.

Entry # 3 – Vogue Article Trends – September 2013

Vogues September issue featured an article about a trend in 2013-2014 fashion. Boxier tops and higher hemlines are making their way onto the runways and into retail stores. The higher hemlines and boxier fitting tops are seen in casual, business, and formal attire. Reminiscent of flapper dresses circa 1920’s, these updated looks are modern, sleek and elegant. In addition to the cut, feathers are all the rage this season My favorite example from the vogue article is J. Crew creative director, Jenna Lyons twist on the boxy sweater with feather details. I chose this example because it is an important move the fashion industry making. They are telling consumers to be daring, bold and unafraid of what people think. In addition, I like how this trend is immediately going through the stages of the fashion lifecycle. We see feathers, boxy and higher hemlines in designer, bridge, con temporary, moderate, and budget priced points.

Entry # 4 – Men’s 2013 Fashion Observation vs. 2012 – Velvet Blazer Fall 2013 Men’s Prada Velvet Blazer Fall 2013 is all about men’s structured velvet blazers. This season designers such as Prada, Gucci, and Burberry have shown their update on the popular velvet blazer from 2012. Designers are moving towards showing the men’s three piece suit this season. The look is a mixture between 1920’s elegance and 1950’s tweed and velvet suiting.

Dolce and Gabbana showed their love of velvet on the runway this year. I particularly like the paperboy hat with the penguin shaped velvet blazer. This twist on the classic look from the 1920’s is modern, but there are dramatic elements such as the pant pleating that make it look traditional. Fall 2012 12

Velvet Inspired Looks 2012

In 2012, velvet was popular but it was styled completely different. Instead of pairing velvet blazers with pleated trousers, the look was more casual. High end designers mixed tuxedo suiting with casual chinos to blend the transparency of velvet from day to night. Last year, Dolce and Gabbana showed velvet blazers with velvet pants with a slim cut. This year, the look has gone from slim tailored lines to pleated, unstructured fitting.

Entry # 5 – Store Visit – City Target – Trends: Soft Lines and Hard Lines Merchandise

# 1 Sweater / Texture

# 3 Sweater Color / Fabric

# 2 Throw Pillow / Texture

# 4 Throw Blanket Color / Fabric

# 5 T-shirt / Motif

# 6 Luggage Tag / Motif

# 7 Luggage Tag / Motif

Trends # 1 and # 2 Women’s sweater and throw pillow both found at City Target. While browsing the sweaters, I came across this boxy and baggy women’s sweater that matched a throw pillow in the home wears department. Both the sweater and the throw pillow have the same texture and are very similar in pattern. This season the color palate has been geared towards earth / natural tones. Both of these products are great examples of texture and design see throughout City Target. Trends # 3 and # 4 Items # 3 and # 4 I came across while browsing the men’s department and house wears department at City Target. Both of these items are similar because they are made in the same pattern and also both made from acrylic. The perforated look is on trend this season and exemplified in both the throw blanket and men’s sweater. Also, navy is very popular this season. There were a lot of home items that color coordinated well with both men’s and women’s apparel items. Trends # 5m # 6, and # 7 The mustache motif has been huge in 2013! While I was browsing target, I came across this luggage tag and thought it was cute and in trend with the mustache this season. As I was walking through the women’s department, I saw this whimsical t-shirt. The mustache motif was even heavily seen throughout targets hard and soft merchandise. I think because this motif will die down eventually, it is smart the products displaying the image are not investment products. When this trend goes through the lifecycle, consumers will not have invested much into this motif.

Entry # 6 – Trends – City Target After visiting City Target and finding my items, I visited WGSN.com and selected cross over items. Journal # 5 products

\WGSN.com comparison product – I selected this visual because it shares the same design elements. The crocheted pattern from the Target examples is inline with the WGSN Versace top. This is a great example of high end fashion trickling down to the mass merchandise consumer channels.

WGSN comparison product

I selected this image from WGSN because it is inline with the fabric and texture of the City Target menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweater and throw blanket. Micro perforations are popular this season. In addition, there are numerous retailers selling acrylic sweaters and home items.

Journal # 5 Items WGSN comparison product â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I chose the mustache motif seen through Targets hard and soft lines of merchandise. Vising WGSN, I came across this tote bag with the mustache motif on it. I chose this product because it is inline with the product overall value. The mustache motif is a fad that will soon disappear. The items displaying this motif are not expensive in value.

WGSN comparison product â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I chose the mustache motif seen through Targets hard and soft lines of merchandise. Vising WGSN, I came across this tote bag with the mustache motif on it. I chose this product because it is inline with the product overall value. The mustache motif is a fad that will soon disappear. The items displaying this motif are not expensive in value.

Entry # 7 – Fabric Trends – WGSN Micro perforations

Tai Erh Enterprise Co. Ltd. at TITAS 2013 2013, TITAS Country of origin -Taiwan

Quilted Formosa Taffeta Co. Ltd. at TITAS 2013 2013, TITAS Country of origin –Taiwan

Pop Plaids Lipeng Enterprise Co Ltd at TITAS 2012 2013, TITAS Country of origin â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Taiwan

Designers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pop Plaid

From left: Celine, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Tommy Hilfiger Pop plaids are on trend with 2013 fall / winter looks. The pop plaid outfits from Celine, Philip Lam and Tommy Hilfiger are made from wool / cashmere blends. Designers using quilting include Belstaff, Elizabeth and James, and Rag and Bone. These designers are using quilting in their leather jackets especially. Designers Proenza Schouler was the hottest runway show of fall 2013 during NYC fashion week. Walking down the runway, a model wore a skirt, which looked like wool, but up close it was actually perforated leather. In addition, designers are using perforated fabrics in lace dresses with viscose crepes and jersey heated fused together

Designers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Micro Perforations

Simone Rocha Collection

Proenza Schouler

Designers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Quilting BelStaff

Elizabeth and James

Rag & Bone

Entry # 8 – Fall 2013 Color Trends Fall 2013 color trends are earthly, deep cool colors that when blended together create a warmer, natural tone. Three colors identified for fall 2013 are –

Designers using this color palate –

Jack Spade is using this color palate in their menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s woven shirts. Dsquared2 is also using this palate in their gingham shirts. Rag and Bone in addition is using the soft, breezy blue colors in their menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shirts. Michael Bastian is using the blues also in cashmere sweaters this fall.

Entry # 9 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Global Trends After looking at WGSN global trends, I came across two trends that are seen currently in the U.S. In addition, these two trends I predict will move over into Spring/ Summer 2014 designs.

Topman, London features wool checked and solid suiting. It is interesting, last season designer were releasing suiting without the vest. This season, it is all about the wool three piece suit. I predict this trickle over into Spring/ Summer suiting but instead of using heavy wool, lighter weight fabrics such as tropical wool will be used.

In Barcelona Spain, retailer McGregor is featuring menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quilted jacks. In addition, the color palate in Barcelona is very similar to the color palate in the U.S. I we will see these design elements in Spring / Summer 2014 designs.

Entry # 10 – Visual Displays – Retailers: Macy’s and Gap #1 Retailer: Macy’s Visual Displays

While walking through Macy’s on State Street I cam across two visual displays I liked for different reasons. Display # 1 is for Thomas Pink. I love Pink shirts; they are made from high quality materials and attract me with their bold colors and distinctive designs. This particular visual display caught my attention because it is on trend with both women’s and men’s fashions this season. We are seeing the higher waistline in women’s shirting and the Pink crisp white blouse is paired perfectly with a silk scarf. For men, bold colors such as violet are popular this season. The Thomas Pink display embodies what the brand stands for; high quality, contemporary yet classic shirts for men and women. In addition, the visual creates a lifestyle portrait in the consumer’s mind, which helps draw attraction and attention to the brands in huge department store like Macy’s. The second display for cashmere scarves caught my attention right away. The Charter Club scarves where displayed at one of Macy’s several entrances. I found this display to be great because it was both visual and also touchable. Seeing the scarves arranged in by ROYGBIB and

being able to touch their soft, luxurious texture made me interested. In addition, these scarves were on sale and I needed a gift. Overall, I was attracted to the neatness and organization of the display. Cashmere scarves are expensive and should not be displayed like an ordinary run of the mill scarf. Visual displays are important because they add value to the product in the eyes of the consumer.

Retailer: The Gap

I love the Gap and whenever I visit one of their stores love their displays. I love how Gap uses large in store visual display stages to position their items to consumers. I find it very effective if a woman shopped visual number one because the Gap pairs all the items to a theme. This woman loves casual chic clothing that is both fashionable yet comfortable.

Display # 2I liked because I love sweaters! Seriously, every winter I cannot get enough of them. This in store visual display merchandised sweaters, denim, button downs, and scarves. This is a great way to add items onto a sale by showing the customer what they did not expect to find. Visual displays should be bold in color, organized carefully and attract consumers to products by displaying them according to audience.

Entry # 11 – New Fashion Trend – Best Man Wedding

Recently, I saw the movie “Best Man Holiday”. Watching the movie I paid attention to men’s and women’s fashion trends that be seen in 2014.This fall we are seeing a lot of designers producing three piece men’s suit. After watching this movie, I noticed most of the men were wearing the suit and vest without a jacket. I think in spring 2014, designers will be launching the suit with out the jacket look. For women, dresses in 2014 will be big. I am predicting longer dresses but still featuring the belted waist silhouette. Leather boots with long dresses I am predicting will be on trend for 2014. Each season women’s dresses become more and more popular, I think designers are seeing their transparency season to season and producing accordingly.

Entry # 12 – Designer Collection

Designer – Chanel Collection – Ready-to-Wear Season – Pre-fall 2014 Retailers – Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman. I am suggesting these retailers because they are in line with the demographics of the Chanel customer. This collection is amazing because 2014 fashions are gong in a completely different direction than this year. We are seeing deeper colors, Aztec patterns and lots of fabric! Design – I like the silhouette this Chanel looks gives the woman. It is flattering from top to bottom. I am happy to see longer skirts and leather boots in 2014; I predicted this trend might arise. Other

items in this collection feature a line skirts with a tribal / colonial look to them. Next years fashions are already making me excited because they are completely different than this year.

Entry # 13 – Career Description

Responsibilities: Fashion Designer – This person is creative, loves the details behind how garments are constructed. Fashion designers are innovative and consistently watching how trends in color, lifestyle, and age influence how consumers buy products. In addition, a fashion designer is a visual person who can sketch out a design, select the color, fabric and oversee the production. Designer’s must know about fabrics / materials used to make certain garments. Without proper knowledge of fabrics, a designer could go very wrong with an entire collection not working. Buyer – A retail buyer is in charge of planning and selecting a range of products sold in a store. The retail has a challenging job because they hold the key to the success of a business. Usually a buyer is responsible for buying a range of items in a department store such as shoes or coats. This helps

ensure that there is a good product mix across the store. The retail buyer must keep in mind these certain factors when making purchase decisions; customer demand / price, quality and availability, market trends, store policy / target audience, and financial budgets.

Product Development Manager â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The development manager must be a good collaborator and take instructions very well. In most fashion apparel / accessories sectors, the product development manager works with designers in taking the product from conception to delivery. This is the person that ensures the final product is what the designer wants and certain design elements have not been overlooked while in the production stage.

Entry # 14 – Do’s and Don’ts Men’s Fashion

Men’s fashion moves consistently through the fashion lifecycle. During certain periods of time, fads emerge that are not suited for everyone. In addition, fads are an extreme in relation to the genres overall appearance. Often, men are more difficult to manage when it comes to what is acceptable and what is not. That is why a visual display is most effective for men, which makes sense because men are respond better to a visual example. I came across the above three do’s and don’ts and found them to be a great example of simplicity gone wrong. # 1 sunglasses – Ideally, when purchasing sunglasses you should match color and shape with your skin tone and facial structure. There will also be men that love the Oakley sunglasses, but showing them that there are varieties in style and color may be helpful to transition them. # 2 Every man should have a simple, fitted white t-shirt. Cotton is a great fabric for a classic crew neck cotton t-shirt. The V-neck t-shirt goes up and down through the fashion lifecycle. Although retailer American Apparel sells deep V-neck shirts, it does not mean everyone or anyone should wear them. Stick with the crew neck and you will find more variety in wearing a simple, clean white t-shirt. # 3 My favorite items in my closet are button down oxford shirts. I love oxfords for several reasons but mainly because they are made of cotton, keep their shape, and are classic items that do not go out of style. Every man should have at least one white and one blue oxford in their closet. It is surprising how many outfit variations may be tailored with simply wearing the oxford with; shorts, khakis, jeans, or dress pants.

Entry # 15 Career Opportunities

1. Marketing Assistant – The role of a marketing assistant varies depending on the type of company. Ideally, I would like to join a law firm in their marketing department. While researching positions on the internet, I have noticed law firms seeking marketing assistants with CRM experience. I have extensive database experience and excellent technical skills. 2. Administrative Assistant – I enjoy keeping myself organized and also the people I work for. Administrative Assistant s must be professional, technically skilled, and able to multitask. I would really enjoy a position where I could be someone’s right hand. My dependability is a great asset I would highlight on a cover letter. 3. Hotel Concierge-‐ Over the past year I have been interested in the hospitality field. Concierges must have excellent people skills, knowledge of Chicago, and strong administrative skills. If I were to apply for a concierge position, I would highlight my ability to interact with all levels of people and work under tight deadlines.