Reboot Astir: Fall 21 by DAMchic Magazine

REBOOT ASTIR

FALL 2021

REBOOT ASTIR LETTER FROM THE EDITOR The world right now feels fast. So much is moving forward with less thought, less care and towards productiveness. There is so much change happening so fast we forget to stop and look at ourselves. Identities change, self discovery comes knocking and life keeps chugging along. Now, we are thrown back into an ocean of responsibilities and standards that applied two years ago. People are speaking out about new systems of communication as we work and play in hybrid space. A new age of creation and expression has arrived. We, especially at DAMchic, have felt this change with our entire being. Very few on our team from before the pandemic remain, moving on to brighter futures. We have a fragmented view of the previous workflow, so much so that previous systems of productions made work harder. Making this issue come to fruition was much like learning to walk again, with a new design process and systems of creating. We need reflection and a period of rebuilding. We deserve a time of respite to embrace the change and allow ourselves to float through life as we are, ever changing. Reboot Astir explores this fast change and new identities developed over cut connections, confidence and corporate manipulation of identity. We emerged from isolation as new people, ready to move on a path we may have never predicted. Not only are we exploring the changes of our community, but also ushering in a new era of DAMchic. After a year off-campus, we are re-establishing our roots, rebuilding our reputation and realigning our values to benefit those around us.

Draken Reeves

We are changing, for the better and for us all. We are here to speak on the issues of fashion as an extension of confidence, the influences of the change makers and the need to watch our consumption. We are mixing the soft with the old, matching aesthetic to ethics. Fashion has an impact, both personal and global, and it is our job to look through a critical eye and become the change makers. It is time for the reboot. I want to take a moment to appreciate all the work our team has put in. The weeks leading up to our release have been strenuous—full of tough conversations and physical stress. Our team has pushed through to create a beautiful magazine. As you read through each article, take time to pause and think of how you have developed. Appreciate the change and move forward to a dynamic and fluid identity.

DRAKEN REEVES EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Photographer: Jess Hume-Pantuso

THE TEAM EDIT O R - I N - C H I E F D R AK EN REEV ES

A S S IS TAN T E D I T O R K AI L E A WA RO U W

L EA D PHO T O GR AP H E R AAR Ó N S A NCHEZ

DES IG N E D I T O R S AL AN NGU YEN C H L O E J O YCE J A M ES O N

CONTRIBUTING DIRECTORS AAR O N S A NCHEZ AL I F U ER TE AV E RY HA DLEY C H AYA B A RRATT H AN NA H LEE J UL I E T T E S A CCENTE K H E I L AN KU S S A LA NA NT L I L A LEWIS MY L A GA RLITZ S H AHA R M ILES S O P HIE DZ IA K

PR IN T R E P O RT E R S N AO MI KLEINS CHM IT G AB B Y NEDNEY

PHO T O GR AP H E R S AAR Ó N S A NCHEZ

CLOTHI N G

M ODELS

AMAZON

BOOKLY N ANDREW BRONT É

AR I K NIGHT

BURBERRY

AS H T ON B IS NER

KH EILAN KUSSALANANT

DIOR

J AK OB J O NES

LOUIS VUIT T ON

JOEL WALKER

J ACO B LE

P ERSONAL CLOSET S

KELA KAIDA

J E S S H UME- PA NTU S O

RU NWAY FASH ION EXCH ANGE

MAKAY LA KY LE

LOCATI ON S

SAM FRAZIER-JENKINS

S AM M Y PA LA CIO

RACH EL DAIRY

WRITERS

GRAY LAB ST UDIOS

SOP H IA COBB

AL I F U ER TE

DOWNT OWN COR VALLIS

SY DNEY GRISWOLD

H ANNA H LEE

ST UDIO A

T EÁ CAVALLI

K H E I L AN KU S S A LA NA NT

ST UDIO B

RAJ T H E DOBERMAN

MY L A GA RLITZ N AO MI KLEINS CHM IT N AT E O LS EN

MA K E U P/HA I R A RTI STS CH AYA BARRAT T SAVANNAH OUT RAM

12 6 • DID YOU RE

IO SH 1 8 • FA

E Z I L

•

EN EM T A ST

T SUSTAI

NE D

2 2 • TRANSMU TE AN

DF EMINISM

MOTION W

TABLE OF CON TENTS

•

M • AL N O L EYES

L •B

F U RY E U

In a world full of fast fashion fads, Tik Tok microtrends, and goodwill bin spelunking, how do you break the chain of monotony and become a champion of your own style? While the allure of having a wardrobe that is on trend can be intense, personal style is never a reflection of society but rather a reflection of your truest self. Having a strong sense of style can be very intimidating. It quickly can become a poisonous game of overspending, gaudy flexing and jealous desire for more. However, these things don’t constitute great personal style. Think of some of the fashion icons of today: Billie Eilish, Kanye West, Pharrell Williams and the list goes on. Our champions of style all climbed their way to top by taking the road less traveled. Using the conventions of the past, they break the rules and customs of the status quo to redefine the world they live in as their own. They are known for their bold and brash decisions that unsettle and question the notions of what the world should look like. Kanye West with his label Yeezy transformed the fashion world with avant-garde yet relatable designs, creating multiple sneaker silhouettes that are ingrained in popular culture today. Billie Eilish used her baggy monogram print matching sets to slaughter the convention of what acceptable dress should be, and then turned the world on its head once again by using her power to take total control over the conversation of her body. Pharrell Williams has taken the influence of Japanese streetwear and American Rap culture to tell captivating stories through design in collaboration with brands like A Bathing Ape, Human Made, Adidas and his own product line Human Race. These champions elevated the conversation over fashion in their respective communities and all empower creation and curation in the hearts of their fans. Whether it is playful or nontraditional suiting, gender stretching dressing or simply adding some more vibrant colors to your wardrobe, you have the power to find what being more fashionable means to you. The brilliance of fashion is that everyone can wear what they want, why they want. Thinking about fashion as anti-aesthetic, where you aren’t dressing to look like something you’ve seen at your local fast fashion mall, can alleviate the stress of trying to fit in. We as young people know that the story we are being told about fashion by big fast fashion brands and the influencers who sell their clothing on social media, and we know how unfulfilling and damaging these stories are. We don’t need to feel like we are stuck between a rock and hard place any longer. Take your influences and the things that make you and use those things to reflect your own personal style. Did you realize that you were a champion?

It’s more than just a grocery store...

It’s a growing community. Two Corvallis locations open 7am - 9pm daily

2855 NW Grant Ave. & 1007 SE 3rd St. www.firstalt.coop • @firstaltcoop 10

Director: Nate Olsen Photographer: Jakob Jones Model: Joel Walker Make-up/Hair Stylist: Savannah Outram

SUSTAINED

Statement 12

So, you’re following that link from the clothing haul Tik Tok and it brought you to the fast fashion sites. You might think it’s more affordable and that sometimes it’s overwhelming to actually try and find brands that are truly as eco-friendly as they claim to be. However, sustainability doesn’t have to be intimidating or even costly, so exit that tab and let us show you how. The best way to learn more is by breaking down the terminology used, what do brands really mean when they say that they’re “sustainable” and how do we identify truly ethically sourced brands to shop from. Sustainable The effect that the manufacturing and production of a product has on the environment. Look at the big picture and how a company will put forth efforts to create something with the least amount of damage to the world around us. Think about how it’s taken from the planet and how it will return.

Greenwashing When a company/brand releases false or misleading information about how ethical or sustainable something is. This includes exaggerating on statistics, or not providing all of the facts on something. Large companies are oftentimes guilty of this because they mass or overproduce. For example, exaggerating advertisements that state a brand has an upcoming “sustainable” fashion line; meanwhile having tons of garments and products that aren’t ethically sourced in their inventory. Aja Barber, a sustainability writer, in a discussion with Asad Rehman on the Al Jazeera YouTube channel that “A corporation can only work in its own best interest which means that if destroying the planet stands in the way of a profit margin then let’s massage the truth about what we’re doing but that doesn’t mean we stop destroying the planet.”

Director: Myla Garlitz Photographer: Ashton Bisner Stylist: Abigael Craig Makeup: Chaya Barret Model: Sophia Cobb

Things to look out for: fluffy language or jargon, green products from dirty companies (make ethical products while their factory causes pollution), claims that they are “greener” than the rest, fake endorsements and irrelevant claims. Ethical This term often refers to how people are being treated. A great way to know if a brand is ethical is by researching to see how much information about the work environment and treatment of employees is available. Fast Fashion Fast fashion consists of garments that have a short-lasting life cycle. These pieces of clothing

are considered “fast” not only because of how quickly they are coming in and out of style, but also how quickly they are being produced. In an interview on the Creative Rebels podcast, Lauren Bravo, author of How to Break Up with Fast Fashion, defines fast fashion as, “The big industry retailers we’re all familiar with, they are churning things out on a weekly basis which means that clothes are not on the shop floor for very long, which means there’s a lot more waste because they’re basically producing more clothes than we could ever buy or wear.” Most companies in this “fast fashion” category can get a design from the drawing board

to the shop floor in well under ten days, helping breed and instill microtrends. Cruelty-free Referring to the welfare of animals. Were any animals harmed during the manufacturing and production of the product? This can be anywhere from animal testing for makeup or animal byproduct within a fashion garment. A good indicator that a product is cruelty-free are labels that say “vegan.” A perfect example for something that is cruelty free is a material called Piñatex. This is an alternative to leather invented by Dr. Carmen Hijosa. In a YouTube video published by her brand Anaas Anam, Hijosa describes how her material has a low

environmental impact, “[the new material] is derived from pineapple leaves. The leaves are a byproduct of the fruit harvest; they do not require additional land, water, fertilizer or fuel to grow.” Organic This term is in regard to the materials of a product and means that the fibers are naturally grown and manufactured/produced absent of toxic materials, chemicals and byproducts. Cotton and silk for example, often use very little chemical processing and are biodegradable. Conscious This term is usually paired up in conscious fashion or conscious consumerism or conscious

clothing. When you see this term, it’s essentially a synonym for sustainable or eco-friendly. A brand called Conscious Clothing is yet another great example of an accountable and trustworthy company. They have a sustainability section on their website that lays out what products, practices and fabrics that they use. Remember, that companies that are proud of their ethical efforts, will display them when they have nothing to hide. Conscious consumerism Something that everyone can take part in. This is when you are mindful of what you’re investing in and what those investments support. Things to help you practice this:

Ask yourself: Is this piece timeless? Is it something that’s trending now? Will you wear it in one Instagram photo and then never again? What are pieces you already own that go with it? Buy less, the biggest issue right now is overconsumption and the easiest way to fix it is to buy less. Buy from brands that make an effort using identifiers mentioned above . Buy used, go thrifting, buy garments and give them new life. Buy quality over quantity. Buy materials like cotton over polyester. Try repairing, altering, or donating old clothes. Buy from countries with stricter environmental regulations for factories (EU, Canada, US, etc).

quality over quantity

FASHION + FEMINISM Director: Hannah Lee Photographer: Ari Knight

Oversized blazers are a statement. They are empowering. They show women that they too hold the power in this world. Throughout time, the clothing that women have worn has widely affected how they are viewed and perceived. As a woman, it’s hard sometimes to feel like you can do everything a man can do, even in this day and age. Clothing has a huge effect on how we feel about ourselves and the impressions that we make on others. All throughout history, women express who they are through fashion and style. A popular trend is the mimicking of mens wardrobe. Starting in 1850, Amelia Bloomer, a women's rights activist, advocated for women to stop wearing the heavy petticoats and corsets they were expected to wear. This led to a lot of female activists making it more of the norm to wear clothes that were different than expected of them. Wearing pieces that are historically mens can give women a new sense of power and individuality. From shoulder pads to blazers, items like these have appeared in many celebrity wardrobes.

Lady Gaga is a great example of a woman who has felt empowered by the clothing she wears. Gaga chose to wear a Marc Jacobs suit instead of a dress that would normally be worn to Elle's Women in Hollywood event, she stated "I decided today I wanted to take the power back. Today, I wear the pants”. Oversized blazers are a staple in her wardrobe. Oversized blazers are a huge trend right now and we are seeing them on everyone. Alex Cooper, founder of the podcast Call Her Daddy that gives women a platform to talk about things that are deemed unladylike, loves oversized blazers. This is now one of the biggest podcasts in the world. She wears blazers all the time. You can also see blazers in some of Beyonce's contemporary looks. A woman who came out with an album embodying modern day feminism, which empowered women all over the world. The blazer is a staple in her closet.

“

For women, the tuxedo is an indispensable outfit, which they feel comfortable with, so they can be who they are. This is style, not fashion. Fads come and go, style is forever. - Yves Saint Laurent When you look at someone the first thing you notice is the clothes that they are wearing, you look at their outfit and make a judgment about who you think they are. When women wear a piece like an oversized blazer, what do you think about them? You think “wow. She looks like a badass”. It's true. She is a badass, she's a woman, and women are powerful, they are strong and they can do anything a man can do.

Director: Hannah Lee Photographer: Ari Knight

In 2016, social media started to shift the industry hierarchy. Young people of color started seeing other people of color who looked like them and lived the same lifestyle. These influencers would go on to build audiences and move into other fashion subcultures. Brands like Supreme, Off White, A Bathing Ape and celebrities like A$AP, Doja Cat, Travis Scott who began their growth in 2016 have all skyrocketed in popularity since then and can be considered icons in today’s generation. Their growth has generated opportunities for collaborations with luxury brands like Louis Vuttion, Jimmy Choo and Christian Dior. Skater aesthetics have been traded in for luxe looks and the creation of timeless fashion pieces as they have grown in age and maturity. As these people and companies have grown over the years, their followers have grown with them. Followers who started off as teens are now fully grown adults who have had increases in incomes that allow them to purchase the luxury pieces these artists create. Previously, there has not been an instance where we have seen so many people of color dominate the fashion industry, let alone the haute couture industry. Whether it is in music videos, album covers, magazine spreads or campaigns there is a reinvention of luxurious styles inspired by streetwear or culture. Celebrities continue to collaborate with luxury brands and create the most highly sought after garments in the industry. These high fashion brands have also gotten better at promoting diversity within their brands and making clothes for a variety of different body shapes and sizes as a result of the collaborations. It will be interesting to see how the industry will continue to shift in the next few years and see the evolution of style that comes with it.

Main Director and Writer: Ali Fuerte Photographer and Assistant Director: Aaron Sanchez Models: Makayla Kyle, Dior, Bronté, Raj the DoberMAN

NEW MOT In 2020 the world stopped, and everything that we knew before, about our relationships, spiritual beliefs, academics, jobs and even the way we looked at ourselves in the mirror all evaporated. What we knew before as college students went away, and our worlds got flipped upside down. The COVID-19 pandemic has left college students across America in a uniquely vulnerable position, and resulted in some experiencing major changes to their identities. Oregon State University students Brooklyn Andrew and Kela (Kel) Kaida both can attest to substantial identity changes since the start of the pandemic. To Andrew, these changes were the ending of a year’s long relationship, leaving her sorority, the ending of friendships,moving out of her ex’s house and into two problematic living situations. Now after moving a third time she lives with friends and it is working out, she has gotten out of a depressed state and gained selfconfidence, experienced changes to her personal style, and made new friends. She was able to have positive changes by evaluating what no longer served her. Andrew said, “I started cutting people out of my life left and right that I feel like were kind of pinning me down and putting expectations on me and making me feel like a bad person.” Another big part of Andrew’s journey throughout the pandemic was learning to love who she is and gaining a powerful sense of confidence. She is unapologetically herself, from her very feminine style with her bright pink hair to the way she carries herself in conversation and the choices she makes. Andrews said, “I love myself and I am authentically myself now, and that is my number one priority, and when I made that switch and was like I am just going to be unapologetically myself, and if you don’t like me then you don’t like me, and that’s okay, but I need to just be who I want to be, and not feel or fear judgment.” It would be fair to say that the pandemic brought about both positive and negative experiences and changes for Andrew. According to a 2021 study from Pew Research Center, ‘In Their Own Words, Americans Describe the Struggles and Silver Linings of COVID-19 Pandemic’ “The vast majority of Americans (89%) mentioned at least one negative change in their own lives … (a 73% majority), mentioned at least one unexpected upside … Two-thirds (67%) of Americans mentioned at least one negative and at least one positive change since the pandemic began.”

TION

Director: Juliette Saccente Writer: Naomi Kleinschmit Photographer: Jacob Le Models: Kela Kaida, Brooklyn Andrew

The same thing about Andrews and countless Americans experiencing big changes since the start of the pandemic, could also be said about Kaida. This sense of confidence Kaida has is so unique, bold, and is the type that everyone can just sense in the presence of someone like this. Kaida went from wearing what was popular in Hawaii -- which is where they are from -- like Brandy Melville to developing an individual sense of style. Kaida said, “Post-covid, I buy fun jeans, wear tank tops, I have a plethora of Jackets. Yeah, I am more expressive of my style and personality.” The changes that Kaida experienced since the start of the pandemic, were not all external. Before the pandemic, Kaida was self-described as a devout Christian, being raised in a Baptist school for 13 years and an active participant in church leadership opportunities. Kaida said, “I defined myself as a servant of the Lord, but more specifically, I served the God my church and school taught me, not necessarily the accurate biblical representation of it.” Now Kaida is more expensive because of their gender and sexuality. “These all were things I saw as “wrong”. I was constantly told who I was, things I believed in and such were immoral and not worthy in the eyes of my religious upbringing,” said Kaida. While a part of the church members scored Kaida environmental passions, but since college -- which for Kaida began with the Pandemic -- these things changed, and though Kaida believes in God, they don’t associate with the church anymore. Now Kaida is confident, open and unapologetic, and believes confidence is not only the way that you love yourself, but also a reflection of the way you love others. “As I took a stand on my own here at Oregon State, I realized that a lot of who I am contradicts what the God I was taught wanted out of his followers. I only started to love who I am and be expressive of all parts of me when I took a step away from Christianity,” said Kaida. For both Kaida and Andrew, the pandemic brought about majority identity changes that ultimately resulted in a powerful and unstoppable sense of confidence developed. Though the road to confidence wasn’t straight and easy for either of them, the pandemic showed that there is light at the end of a very dark tunnel through these two. Both shine bright and use time in quarantine to reflect and question what they believed, and who they are. As we are seeing some better days with the pandemic and quarantine is over, the time to question and reflect, grow and question is not.

all eyes on me THE PROGRESSION OF WOMEN’S FASHION DURING QUARANTINE THROUGH MODERN DAY

ACT 1, SCENE 1 DamChic TV Studio, 11a.m., Doja Cat’s Planet Her emitting lightly from the speakers. The lights are focused on a single wide armchair surrounded by cameras. A fog machine sets the background for the photoshoot. Enter Sydney Griswold from stage right, dressed in a monochrome black suit paired with red-laced Gucci boots. Gold jewelry decorates her neck and hands. On her right wrist sits a false tattoo by Blue Lotus Henna of Portland, Oregon. In her hand she clutches a sword. Griswold embodies confidence as she maneuvers a professional studio for the first time. Had I not been told otherwise, I would have guessed she had years of modeling experience based on her stance alone. From the moment I walked in, I recognized that this woman is powerful; without even having to say a word. It is the subtle lip syncing and dancing between shots that causes me to approach her at last. INTERVIEWER What goes through your head when you are modeling? GRISWOLD To just relax and be comfortable, have fun with it, and be confident in myself and what I’m doing Throughout the years, I have really come into who I am in front of a camera. INTERVIEWER How did the pandemic limit your fashion decisions? GRISWOLD

I could not go anywhere. I had so many outfits planned in my head, things I wanted to wear that could never see the light of day. It made me very upset. I am a very social person so not being able to see people was definitely very hard.

INTERVIEWER Now that life is moving away from remote connection, how does this impact how you dress in public? GRISWOLD As opposed to my typical quarantine outfit, which was sweatpants, shorts and socks, in person learning allows me to plan an outfit every day. If it is cold I will wear fuzzy socks and a sweatshirt, but with a jean jacket over the top and boots to make it still me. Think of it as fashion with function. INTERVIEWER Do you have any words of advice for women struggling with confidence?

GRISWOLD

Find what works best for you. Other people can’t make you feel more confident, that’s only something you can do. It may take time or research or time with yourself, but when you learn to appreciate who you are, that’s how you become confident.

ACT 1, SCENE 2 Miss Meers Boutique, 451 SW. Madison Ave, tucked in the heart of downtown Corvallis. A rainy Wednesday evening compliments the natural buzz of customers within the shop. Women’s pullovers, chic long sleeves and a multitude of denim pants neatly cover the shelves. Enter Manager Amanda Hennen, a fourth year Business Marketing and Apparel Design major at Oregon State. Hennen has three years of sales experience as a longterm employee at Miss Meers. She wears blue jeans, boots and a beige sweater. INTERVIEWER How would you describe consumer demand during quarantine? HENNEN

During the heat of COVID we were down in sales revenue overall. People were not shopping as much and we had to shift our inventory towards leisure, comfortable clothing other than our nicer, typical inventory. Due to loyal customers, we were able to increase our sales through social media.

INTERVIEWER How would you describe consumer demand in the modern day? HENNEN It is higher than ever before. We’ve been open for 20 years and we have had our best days that we’ve had since we’ve been open in the most recent weeks. Due to changes in lifestyle, a lot more people are finding that they need to revamp their wardrobe. INTERVIEWER How do you style a customer to appeal to their taste? HENNEN Being in person and having them step out of the dressing room to show me is a big piece of the process. Communicating with the customer, knowing their body type, and giving them examples from our inventory is a huge way to boost their confidence.

Photographer: Jakob Jones Director: Avery Hadley Writer: Shahar Miles Model: Sydney Griswold

As we follow the evolution of women’s fashion from quarantine to present day, it becomes apparent that quarantine has given us the opportunity to reflect on personal style choices within our daily routines. According to Dr. Carolyn Mair at the London College of Fashion, “it's stressful for us if we don't feel comfortable in what we're wearing. If we're really worrying that it's appropriate or it's suitable or we don't feel confident in what we're wearing, it stresses us and this means that we don't have the cognitive capacity to deal with the problem at hand.” Individual mental health is a reflection of how comfortable a person is in the clothing they have on. Putting forth your best self begins as early as when you get dressed in the morning. As for you, this may mean a multitude of things, though the most important is to “find what works best for you,” as Griswold puts it. In the midst of in-person learning, it is important now more than ever to live your life as the main character. Put on those knee high boots, paint on the graphic eyeliner and show everyone your red carpet walk; even if it is a superficial confidence at first. Though it may be difficult to step out of your comfort zone, it is important to feel vulnerable with your head held high. At the end of the day, when the curtains finally close and the lights dim, perhaps you will find that your performance was never an act after all.

BLUE FURY 38

Director: Kheilan Kussalanant Photographer: Sammy Palacio Model: Sam F.J.

The colors that we used to share

SCULPT YOUR FUTURE 43