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Stampa / Print: Lito Immagine - Rive D’Arcano UD ISBN 978-88-97123-187 Foto / Photo: © Willy Di Giulian Testi / Texts: © Dante Silvestrin Traduzioni / Translate: © John Lenarduzzi Tutti i diritti di riproduzione anche parziale del testo e delle immagini sono riservati in tutto il mondo. All rights reserved worldwide for reproduction of the text and pictures, partial or otherwise.
Con il patrocinio di / With support of
WILLY DI GIULIAN
COLVERA tra silenzi e poesia
testi
Dante Silvestrin
daniele marson editore
daniele marson editore
Preface
by
Aldo Colonnello
Circolo culturale Menocchio
We live in a time when the virtual world tends to overlap the real world and to replace it. This book, while realized with modern techniques, manages to avoid this risk. Is this a book of documentation or art? Both together! A few days ago, I watched the program on TV entitled “I Borghi Più Belli” and wondered: why not the valleys? Every valley, for all of those who live or lived there, is the ‘coolest’, because it is a place of suffering, of memories, of stories, of joys and hardships, personal and shared. For some time many people are increasingly aware that the mountains and foothills of western Friuli and their valleys are suburbs of quality, although always present is the risk of economic, cultural and social desertification. Di Giulian and Silvestrin capture one of the valleys of western Friuli, the Val Colvera, its places, landscapes, environments, all different from each other, “like two drops of water” (W. Szymborska). There are times when you can hear, as said by father David Maria Tuorlo, “the deafening silence of God”. The smells, the colours... everything speaks with an unmistakable voice, His and ours, providing careful, sensitive and open new views. That which separates men is the curiosity and the desire to learn: this is the deeper meaning of life. These pictures and the notes that accompany them invite us and help us to be aware of our poor and superficial knowledge of the past, present and future, live around us, and which we had the opportunity to “see” many times. Each page whispers “see, see, see...” See. There ‘s always something new to surprise, astonish and create a sense of awe and wonder.
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Il primo raggio di sole accende il nuovo giorno.
The first sunbeam lights a new day. 7
Introduction
Val Colvera lies among the imposing westerly foundations of Monte Raut which, at a height of 2025 metres, rises as if to protect Val Colvera from the northerly winds. From here it descends, initially exposed, through the low woody hills until it reaches the notherly base of Monte Jouf to the west and San Lorenzo to the east which, nearly touching each other, appear to want to prevent any passage to the south. But the water is in no rush, slowly but relentlessly it has carved the narrow passage called “Bus del Colvera” and has created significant, large caves along its course, which the locals call “I Landri”. The environment is limited in its scenery but rich in detail, an environment to explore, as the photographer did with his first series, with careful zooming, wide angles and minute macro images. The artist has been able to capture not only the essence of the nature but also its complexity and integrity, difficult to find in other such restricted environments. A significant collection offering a new viewpoint which allows one to get to know this environment intimately and with confidence. It will not fail to capture your emotions. Val Colvera, at first sight appears dense and rough, the closeness of its rocky limestone sides rising vertically to highlight the white and grey typical of this mineral. The density of its woods which invite one to stroll through in search of unexpected and colourful flowers, or animals which pause, curious to study our presence in this place. The limited space feels welcoming and even gives a joyful feeling of being protected. Its clear and colourful waters descend through a series of attractive corners where small waterfalls fall into shallow pools of beautiful colours. All these aspects seem to have formed the few people who still maintain deep roots in this land, people who keep to themselves, of few but essential words, used to surviving with the only the essentials but, on the other hand, polite and courteous whenever the occasion presents itself. Their skills are the essential skills needed to build their dwellings, with rocks from the rivers, wood from the trees, one on top of the other so as to not lose the little heat available. Essential elements but also attractive in their pure and simple lines, designed for maximum functionality. With enclosed courtyards as if to protect their privacy and within which to retire at night and recount the happenings of the day.
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Il manto nevoso ricopre la Val Colvera invitandola al lungo silenzio del riposo invernale.
The snowpack covers the Val Colvera inviting her to the long silence of winter. 13
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L’ambiente invernale regala contrasti luminosi irripetibili | pag.14-15 L’alba porta ricompense che vanno oltre ogni immaginazione.
The winter environment offers unique lighting contrasts | pag.14-15 Sunrise brings rewards that go beyond imagination. 16
Montagna custode di tesori preziosi elargitrice di emozioni intense
Ha fascino, questa pianura, così uniformemente piatta, coltivata in ogni suo più piccolo lembo, solcata dai larghi greti ghiaiosi di fiumi generalmente asciutti ma che fanno da linee conduttrici verso l’improvviso elevarsi di montagne che, senza interruzione, arrivano ad altidudini singolari. Un compatto scenario che la chiude a nord, interrotto soltanto da rari intagli dai quali escono le acque raccolte nei gruppi montani retrostanti. Intagli non larghi, ma agevolmente visibili che tentano, senza riuscirci, di rompere tanta compattezza. Accade solo verso sera nelle giornate di sereno quando che, al calare del sole, quella enorme massa perda consistenza e profondità assumendo le parvenze di un grande scenario di cartone che si staglia, nero, contro un cielo bianco della luce proveniente dal sole oramai sceso. Ma c’è un varco ben celato da quinte rocciose che si svela, improvviso, solo a chi lo sappia cercare: è la Val Colvera. Stretta quanto corta, non la si distingue se non quando si è nel suo grembo. Un grembo dai fianchi verticali, che nella sua brevità conserva e custodisce gelosamente una serie di tesori naturali non trascurabile e, non ultima, una naturalezza e selvaggità altrove perdute. Il suo distendersi ai piedi di monti che, senza interposte interruzioni, oltrepassano i duemila metri di altidudine fa si che in essa si raccolgano caratteristiche vegetali, animali, floreali di alta, media e bassa montagna offrendo all’osservatore la presenza di esemplari di illimitato interesse. Ed è proprio li che l’ istinto porta, a scoprire ambienti ad un tempo antichi quanto diversi, carichi di fragori e di silenzi, di luci e di ombre e di contrasti difficilmente riscontrabili. Un luogo rude ma non ostile, austero ma non inospitale, dove è possibile trovare ancora un profondo senso di serenità, una sorta di grembo materno dalle giuste dimensioni dove non è più l’uomo a dettare i tempi delle proprie azioni ma è l’ambiente circostante che ispira il suo andare. Una nuova dimensione, quindi, giusta per ipotizzare una sopravvivenza dove non manchi nulla di ciò che serve. Acqua per dissetarsi, legna per riscaldarsi, terra sulla quale far maturare quanto serve e fiori per godere. Ecco che, con l’innoltrarsi in questo ambiente, tutto diventa più riconoscibile e disposto nel giusto ordine. Le prime ghiaie diventano rocce dai colori ancora caldi quindi, d’improvviso, al di sopra delle prime cascatelle, tutto diventa più netto, quasi più ordinato, più luminoso. Sul biancore del calcare le acque trovano trasparenze ineguagliabili, i suoni ingigantiscono e l’entusiasmo, come le acque, fluisce copioso.
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The images are poetry The forms are poetry The colours are poetry The emotions are poetry
The river attracts with its transparent waters which, in the initial plains, flows easily not encountering any obstacle, the temperature is chilly in the morning and the birds have only just finished their morning concert to welcome the new sun. From the East the dawn light provides a red glow to the new day and its extending glow creates long shadows on the boulders which rise from the waters. The gentle running sound, in this stretch free from any harshness, creates an unexpected silence making it even more gentle and welcoming, inviting one to proceed calmly and reflect on the pace of a life lost but not forgotten. Waters escape from the virually silent streams, scintillating and lively, small waterfalls cascading into the clear emerald pools where it is possible to count the stones on the river bed. Along the banks whispy blades of grass are caressed by the passing water as it dances in elegant moves in the sinuous flow. Crystal clear waters which have quenched thirsts with their purity, waters which have provided nourishment and refreshed every living thing which draws strength from the generous river. Waters which play on the reflections produced by the flat surfaces, unusual and strange reflections in a continuous and unstopable dance, until, as for every morning at sunrise, a slight gust of wind ripples the smooth surface making it puckered and removing every reflection, but this does not last long, then everything is calm and clear. So then inevitably the desire to enter this environment arises, searching for and discovering the most secret aspects savoring the inevitable emotions so generously offered and receiving in exchange the “simple� gift of feeling good. One unfailingly discovers lively sensations and a sense of peace and delicate serenity which are deep and unforgettable.
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Il levar del sole increspa le liscie superfici.
The lights puckering the smooth surfaces. 27
Levigati dalle acque, corrosi dal gelo, sconvolti dalle violenze del fiume, stanno immobili a dar vita ad un ambiente solo in apparenza ostile.
Smoothed by water, corroded by frost, appalled by the violence of river, they create only in appearance, a hostile environment.
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Pronto ad un rapido tuffo per la cattura di una preda.
Ready for a quick dip for catching prey.
Come un velo leggero, l’acqua accarezza la roccia divertendosi a mulinare su vasche accoglienti.
As a light veil, the water caresses the rocks enjoying to flow. 35
The seasons, the silences, the solitude, the lights are all poetry
Climbing slowly, passing from one stone to another, from sand to sand, pool to pool, and colour to colour noticing, as one advances, the gradual changes in the terrain. The welcome and attractiveness of the stretch with its boulders, rounded and smooth like marble, together with their light brown shadings which slowly give way to limestone deposits with their surly and rough forms and various shades which range from white to grey-black. The waters now collect in bigger pools which, whilst maintaining their clarity, are tinged with delicate shades of emerald and blue - some times distinct, sometimes mixed - and the gravely bottom extols the water‘s various shades. Here one experiences a new tranquility, not previously known, and the sensation of not being alone. Unexpected movements, fast and furtive, reveal the existence of hidden lives not accustomed to external interference. Immersed in this unusual reality, a sound, a scent, a colour, awakens memories and thoughts which seemed to have been forgotten. Who knows how they arrived here, these flowers, in between the stones; in the water, almost deprived of the sunshine they need. Their seeds, transported by the water, or perhaps the birds, or the wind, have found life here and have been tough enough to find the minimum necessary to survive in such a hostile environment. They have inserted themselves into some small crevices in the rocks, or found refuge in the roots of some bush, or even rested in a handful of sand, amongst the stones, and here they have sprouted and grown revealing beautiful shapes and intense colours to attract the few impollinators which venture into these places thereby guaranteeing the survival of the species. Hidden and of pale colours; others coloured and with distinct markings, express there singular personality and beauty. Fugacious in their perpetual movement upon the slightest of breezes. But the pictures are better than any description which, even like a small light, lightens the dark and lightens the moments of life. The tight dimensions of this corner of the world, due especially to its narrowness, create sharp reflections, sometimes soft, sometimes harsh, which project onto the rocks, reflect from the waters, creating different zones some bright and others where the shade is king. Sometimes they form shadows, hazy and muffled lights, which towards the ground create halos, untouchable, etheral and opaque above which everything seems free, without any support, as in a fantastic dream. Other times it changes into a backlight of headlights which forces one to adapt the eyesight in order to watch them. And the light is never still, the movement of the rays creates a collection of lights and shades in continual and silent movement, as if not wanting to be captured. This is when watching an image through the various hidden secret lights becomes a journey within the image itself and our own thoughts; a journey which can only make us emotionally richer.
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La presenza del gambero d’acqua dolce conferma la purezza di queste acque.
The presence of freshwater shrimp confirms the purity of this water. 41
...creano vorticosi mulinelli che tutto attraggono e fanno turbinare...
...swirling eddies that capture everything... 47
Wild corners provide different emotions new emotions
The river banks now become vertical and close to each other, very close, with surly overhanging profiles. The sun does not penetrate this narrow sinuous gorge with its sides hollowed out and smooth from the flowing waters which have lost their previous pleasing aspect and appeal. It is the Colvera Bus a severe place which highlights the contrast between a closed environment and the power of the two elements which created it - water and rock. The grey, the black and the strength of the rocks, the green, the blue and the clarity of the water, the fineness of the air are all key elements of this place. In other places the water changes into waterfalls, becoming more unruly and stretching out, pushes and twists appearing to shout out in anger. The water splits into thousands and thousands of small drops which, if seen in a certain light, are colourless and transparent but when caught against the light transforms itself into a parade of silver pearls which jump above the underlying water becoming a foam of brilliant reflections and steam before the sun’s rays convert them to colourful and untouchable rainbows. Small drops but so many that they help to fill the waters of the sea and the emotions of the heart. If one was able to stop them for a single moment, how many stories could they tell, how many things have they seen in their annual and continual evolution; snow, water, sea, steam,clouds, rain, snow and more water which always passes through this place and goodness knows how many humans have quenched their thirst with its intense purity and it has helped them in working the land. The architecture of this location is dictated equally by these two elements. The rocky masses become enormous and shaped by the violence of the passing waters; they slow the normal flow creating deep ponds of dark blue shade which conceals the bottom. These are the cauldrons, favoured by the local youngsters so they can show off their acrobatic diving; magnificent and instinctive actions typical of the young with uncontrolled energy and lacking any boring element of caution. The racket “in here“ is enormous and almost frightening. Even the light is distant, high up, but this semi-darkness gives more intensity to the blue and unexpected depth to the strip of visible sky which in turn seems to want to penetrate this distant and seemingly repulsive place.
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Riflessi ora luminosi, ora soffusi, ora ovattati, catturano ed affascinano lo sguardo.
Bright reflections capture and fascinate your gaze.
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La pietra, altro elemento costitutivo di questo luogo, valida collaboratrice dell’uomo nelle sue necessità costruttive.
The stone, the other element of this place, is a valid contributor for man.
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La vita, in diverse forme, è dovunque intorno a noi.
Life is everywhere, all around us.
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Pennellate di azzurro arricchiscono il sottobosco.
Blue brushstrokes enrich the underbrush.
Fiero e audace, l’iris si mostra in tutta la sua spavalda bellezza.
Proud and bold, the iris appearing in all its beauty. 66
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The spaces and the dreams aspired by freedom
Then, suddenly, the two sides open out and give way to the second part of the valley - wide, open and green, very green. This new environment with its warm air creates a feeling of optimism. One can finally see the surrounding mountains which give shape to this place and imagine the magnificent views to be seen from those very high mountain tops. To study the mountains up there, layer after layer, seemingly never ending and with colours fading into the unimaginable distance, gives flight to new dreams. Our mind can travel above all you can see from up there and beyond without obstacles, borders and limits. Here the waters rediscover their initial calm and clarity and, now flow over smooth, flat rocks of varying colours and warmth, creating reflections of extraordinary beauty. Dipping one’s hands in this liquid and feeling its freshness and purity slide through the fingers, caressing then enveloping the palms. Allowing oneself to be consumed by this stream of pleasure never before experienced, creates new and enjoyable sensations. In these large natural caves, as in a dream, one can feel the breathing of those who inhabited them in the distant past. The sun, now high in the sky, is warm and encourages a large variety of plants to flower and finally reveal the beauty of their shapes and colours - white, blue, lilac, yellow, green and many more in their miriad colours and shades, as unexpected gifts for the visitor.
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Protetti dalla volta rocciosa lo sguardo corre al verde del bosco.
Protected by the rock gaze runs to the green forest. 81
Il controluce evidenzia ogni piÚ piccolo particolare dell’elleboro.
The backlight shows every detail of the hellebore.
Luci vivide, a volte violente, mettono in risalto vite altrimenti invisibili.
Glares, sometimes extremes, highlighting invisible lives. 83
Springs, gift of life and beautiful emotions
The springs are not far, the river little more than a brook, emits only a soft murmur from its gentle movement, like a veil, caressing the smooth and sloping rocks. Where the stream becomes wider, the water extends out like blue veins across the stones in a silent, dormant manner, immobile, transparent almost unnoticed, as if hiding from an indiscreet gaze. The isolation is total but it is not lonelinenss. The multitude of movements from creatures, in the water, in the air, amongst the nearby plants on the shores is distinct and various. It all culminates in creating intense feelings which until now imprisoned within waited to be set free. Tall trees reaching for the sky create a strange transparency in the half light of the afternoon. How much life there is under the trees in the woods which grow slowly and silently in contrast with the plants of the undergrowth which only has one season to sprout, grow and mature, needing to quickly complete their life cycle because they know that the season of their life is not long much light is created by the filtered sun‘s rays, different in every hour of the day. Resting shadows and vivid blades of light which move with the sun giving life to a virtually unreal world. Looking to the sky one is caught by the unexpected backlight which renders colours pale and makes the leaves on the branches disappear. And finally by the darkness that arrives here before the outside world and leaves here last. So many shades of green, each one different depending on its plant’s properties – opaque, vivid, clear, dark. All destined for a radical change when the first autumnal colds surround the leaves turning them into different colours and infinite shades. A phenomenon so important it gives colour to everything around it. So many sounds, so many noises, distinct but indistinguishable, are heard under this vault of vegetation. Animals of the most diverse species move quickly in search of food, chase each other intoxicated by the season of love, dig their dens, build their nests, raise their young continuing the never ending miracle of life without questioning the reason for their life but always careful to enact every strategy to ensure their continued existence. Towards nightfall, the deafeaning concert of all these living creatures unite in preparation fort he night, as if each one must recount to his neighbour what he did during the day until, unexpectedly, all becomes silence as if obeying an order. All that remains are the whisper oft he wind which caresses all it encounters making it gently rustle in a misterious sound, breezes that bring optimism and renewal.
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Emozioni nuove e diverse regalate dalle colorazioni di falde rocciose inconsuete.
New and different emotions we received from rocky slopes with unusual colorations.
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Il candore calcareo contrasta con i forti toni delle rocce intorno.
The chalky whiteness contrasts with the strong tones of rocks around.
La Vipera ammodytes assaggia l’intorno con la sua lingua biforcuta.
The Viper ammodytes, with its forked tongue, fells the air. 105
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Ancora profili netti e inconfondibili si stagliano nel controluce.
Clear and unmistakable silhouetted against in the light. 116
Eccitanti suggestioni nutrimento dello spirito
Colori, profumi, suoni, luci, silenzi, tutte queste eccitanti suggestioni hanno penetrato e nutrito la spiritualità e, mentre si riprende la via del ritorno, ancora vengono a riscaldare con un crepuscolo che a sua volta dispensa sfumature ed espressività diverse. Ora le colorazioni precedenti sono rese più calde ma, via via, si faranno più spente e fredde. È bello allora immaginare, lungo il cammino, cosa possono regalare questi luoghi nelle altre stagioni. L’Autunno, quando la natura si prepara al sonno invernale, la tavolozza dei caldi colori del bosco, proprio grazie alla sua accentuata miscellanea di specie mette in evidenza le gradazioni e i riflessi colorati. Il maturare degli ultimi frutti attaccati ancora ai rami anche dopo la caduta delle foglie come ad impreziosire la pianta madre. I primi freddi che provocano le mattutine brinate creando tappeti candidi a ricoprire i prati e ricamate galaverne ad ornare alberi e cespugli. I profumi più diversi che l’aria porta alle narici, profumi evocativi di ricordi mai dissolti; profumi resinosi, emanati dai tronchi lavorati dai boscaioli che impregnano l’aria assieme a quelli più aromatici della terra umida ricoperta da uno strato di foglie fruscianti. L’Inverno che a volte tutto ricopre e riveste con nevicate che danno nuove forme al paesaggio rendendolo più uniforme ed ovattato nei suoni. La neve infatti aggiunge un silenzio tutto particolare a questo ambiente, una quiete magica entro la quale sembra di ritornare bambini. In questo posto i suoni, i profumi, i colori sembrano amplificarsi, forse proprio perché questo ambiente è così ridotto nelle dimensioni. Tutto si ferma a riposare, dai sassi incappucciati di bianco, al sottobosco dove lo strato di foglie è diventato oramai inumidito e marcescente. E tutto è in attesa del risveglio primaverile quando ogni più piccolo luogo si arricchirà delle sue fioriture, il torrente si ingrosserà col disgelo delle nevi, il bosco si vestirà dei primi teneri verdi, gli animali pascoleranno alla ricerca di cibo fresco ed altri che, uscendo dal lungo letargo, sembreranno stropicciarsi gli occhi per allontanare il sonno residuo.
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Sogno o realtĂ , illusione o certezza, tutto sembra volersi confondere.
Dream or reality, illusion or certainty, everything seems to want to confuse.
L’immagine, meglio di ogni descrizione, può cogliere e restituire la bellezza di un momento.
The picture, better than any description, can catch and return the beauty of a moment.
pag.126-127 Forme apparentemente irreali, immerse in luce graffiante e colori intensi creano attraenti fenomeni illusori dal fascino vibrante e irresistibile.
Seemingly unreal forms, surrounded by light scratching and colours. 125
Solitario a godersi tanta bellezza.
Solitaire to enjoy such beauty.
La luce riesce a rendere leggere e impalpabili forme e profili altrimenti possenti.
The light can make impalpable forms and profiles usually powerful.
pag. 130-131 Nella veste invernale la montagna assume toni austeri e gravi.
In winter the mountain takes austere and serious tones. 129
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Coraggio, forza e capacità straordinarie, caratteristiche necessarie per sopravvivere.
Courage, strength and extraordinary abilities, characteristics necessary to survive.
pag. 146-147 È sorprendente quando, d’Inverno, il cielo riesce a donare A volte cruda e repulsiva, la vetta emana comunque irresistibili aloni di attrazione.
Crude, repulsive and attractive at the same time, the peak is there forever for those who want to grasp the intimate and profound satisfaction.
tenere colorazioni pastello così contrastanti con l’asprezza dell’ambiente sottostante.
It is surprising when the winter sky gives pastel colours that contrast with the harshness of the environment below. 145
Stars not moving in the sky thoughts of other worlds
It is now dark and everything has lost its colour and texture, black envelops everything, cancelling all depth and outline. Only high up does one notice the profile of the mountains against a backdrop of such a starry night the like of which is rarely seen. The poorly lit valley allows one to appreciate the spectacle with so many stars that it would be difficult to imagine could be seen in any other place. You look behind to see who the spectacle is intended for, but there is nobody, such beauty is only for those present in that moment, such beauty is only for this people, and everything seems to become possible. Thoughts build up in one’s head giving a sense of intoxication stupefaction. But better than any words are the images which create emotions, sensations, suggestions. It is the thirsty soul of the photographer searching for refreshment in the soul of a subject in the moment of the click when the two souls come together. It is fascinating to think how much effort, how much creativity, how much talent is necessary to transform that click into a masterpiece. And with that gentle pressure from the finger it releases the tension, anxiety and expectations built up in preparing for the shot. The result of the click depends on all of this, it is not by chance or from technical ability, but the result of a close observation of the surroundings, of wisdom and sensivity in identifying the moment that understands and captures every detail, every slightest nuance to makes them protagonists. Above all, in places like this, where every element, every light, every colour are never still but in continuous and constant movement and variation, and every image captured is the same as a wish which is found in these places which seem to create different worlds. How many images in this small world are the same as the emotions which have been released. And after having observed and “seen” them, having felt the emotions that have been raised, we can only feel happy to be in this environment, we can only feel a deep sense of respect for it, we can only love it. Mankind must always be conscious of what has been made available and be grateful to those who provided it and look after it with care. The environment in which we live is generous but not infinite, that is why it’s use should be done in a balanced way leaving, for anything removed, the time for it to reform ensuring that there are the conditions for this to happen. Finally, it is basically a matter of education and love and it is only with love that man can arrive at what should be the goal of this life: happiness.
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I colori della terra e del cielo sembrano specchiarsi.
The colours of the land and sky seemed appear like to mirror. 151
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