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September 2021

recipes

Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine

spice

NEW WAYS WITH

• Chicken tikka pot roast • Merguez sausage baps • Chai chocolate brownies

30-minute midweek meals SEASONAL PLUM & RICOTTA CAKE

Meet the Pride food pioneers £5.25

SHIVI RAMOUTAR’S BACK-TO-SCHOOL DINNERS

MAKE LIFE EASIER Your seven-day meal planner Foolproof steak classic for two How to use up your late-summer veg

Welcome to

September New!

PODCASTS Catch up on Trade Secrets with Tom Kerridge and Marverine Cole, Health with Tracey Raye, cook-alongs with Rookie & Nice and, coming soon, a new series all about dream careers in food.

Find past episodes and more info at bbcgoodfood.com/podcasts.

Our commitment At Immediate Media, publishers of BBC Good Food, we respect and value differences. We understand that when people from different backgrounds and with different points of view work together, we can create the most value – for our readers, our people and society. We always strive to be inclusive, but we need to do better. We have been taking time to listen and understand how we can make positive changes, and how we can better support and increase diversity across all our brands.

We have begun work on a comprehensive plan to create and drive authentic change.

‘We speak the same language – the language of debate and creativity, empathy and discussion,’ says Sanjeev Bhaskar as he cooks pau bhaji with Emma Freud, describing his joy in becoming part of the creative community behind shows such as Goodness Gracious Me (p114). But, he could also be describing the experiences shared by those of us with a passion for food. This month, we celebrate the versatility of spices and how they can elevate macaroni cheese, roast chicken and brownies (p33); meet the woman reimagining school dinners (p26) and Melissa Thompson’s Pride food heroes (p118); and explore the tastes and traditions of Rosh Hashanah (p54).

As we enter September, discover our new baking and health online courses, designed to boost your knowledge through discussion with fellow learners (p93).

See you next month – with a bonus 24-page guide to batch

Star contributors Sandra Leong With Singaporean snack-food chain Old Chang Kee, Sandra brought curry puffs and more to London (p90). Find her nasi lemak recipe on page 92.

Resh Sonchhatla & Heena Varambhia The couple behind Chapati Club tell Melissa Thompson what Pride means to them (p119).

Sanjeev Bhaskar Emma Freud cooks Sanjeev’s version of pau bhaji (p116) and chats to him about his TV career, growing up and Unforgotten (p114).

Melek Erdal Chef, cookery teacher and food writer Melek shares her three inventive ways with feta, inspired by traditional Turkish-Kurdish dishes (p70).

WE ARE

Christine Hayes, editor-in-chief christine.hayes@immediate.co.uk @bbcgoodfood

COOK THE COVER p36 SUBSCRIBERS GET MORE!

RECIPE & FOOD STYLING

As part of our Subscriber Club, all UK subscribers receive an exclusive spice blend with their September issue to cook our delicious cover recipe (p36).

To enjoy more subscriber benefits like this, turn to p44.

PHOTOGRAPH

Esther Clark KarenThomas STYLIST

Ben Curtis & Sarah Snelling

Inside COOK’S CALENDAR 17

Discover what to do in your kitchen this month, plus shopping inspiration and Asma Khan’s Bengali curry

SEPTEMBER 2021

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HEALTH

85

86

COVER STORY 33

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NEW WAYS WITH SPICE

We’ve elevated classic, comfort-food recipes with spices, including our chai caramel brownies

90

72

FAMILY RUSH-HOUR MEALS

54

ROSH HASHANAH

Quick and easy veg-packed recipes kids will love Tips for celebrating Jewish New Year this autumn

62 66 68 70 75 76 80

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30-MINUTE MEALS

Make midweek a breeze with our simple and speedy dinner ideas GF TREASURES

Rediscover some of our favourite pasta dishes from the Good Food archive

94 102

MIDWEEK

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We bust the myths on organic food, and share a red lentil pasta recipe FIVE IDEAS

Quick recipes to make the most of yogurt HEALTHY DIET PLAN

Our nutritious pork & squash cobbler counts as four of your five-a-day.

WEEKEND

EASY 48

HEALTH NEWS

49

110

MY FAVOURITE DISH

We’re celebrating the classic Singaporean rice dish, nasi lemak ONE-PAN ROAST

Try something different for your Sunday menu with our guinea fowl main and pretzel tart for dessert WEEKEND BAKE

Bake for Pride with our layered rainbow cake IN SEASON

Cook with the best of what autumn has to offer MAKE & GIVE

Get ahead for Christmas with our edible gift idea

FROZEN ASSETS

OPINION

Our one-pot bangers & mash makes an ideal freezer filler

114

FRIDAY NIGHT

A takeaway-style stir-fry to kick off the weekend

118

1 INGREDIENT, 3 WAYS

Melek Erdal shares ideas for using versatile feta

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WEEKNIGHT PUDDING

Make our no-cook cookies & cream fridge cake

USE YOUR LEFTOVERS

What to create with what you have left from this issue

Our columnist meets actor Sanjeev Bhaskar, who cooks his take on a Mumbai dish MELISSA THOMPSON

Hearing from LGBTQ+ hospitality heroes VICTORIA MOORE

Must-try wines with a hint of spice

COOKING SKILLS

TWO TWISTS

Our team shares different ways to make apple pie – which is your favourite?

EMMA FREUD

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127

KNOW YOUR STUFF

Expert cooking tips and kitchen know-how, plus advice for perfecting steak diane and a sake cocktail

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 7

Why you can trust

EVERY ISSUE 10

RECIPE INDEX Where to find

12 15 44

YOUR FEEDBACK Share your

all the recipes in this issue

101 146

views, photos and recipes READER EVENT Join us for lunch with Tom Kerridge SUBSCRIBER CLUB Find out about exclusive offers NEXT MONTH What’s coming up in our October issue

42

BBC Good Food is the UK’s No 1 food lifestyle media brand. We are passionate about food and cooking. While recipes are at the heart of what we do, we are committed to helping you have the best food experience you can, whether you’re shopping for food, in your kitchen or eating out in the UK or abroad. This is what we promise…

Biggestandbest We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and confident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their fields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookbooks feature our trusted recipes – you’ll find these in bookshops.

TONIGHT’S SPECIAL

Duck & watermelon salad

READER OFFERS • Upgrade your knives and save 30% on a five-piece set, p99 • Save 30% on a beginner’s pan set, plus a free gift, p109 • Book a relaxing European cruise for 2022 with included tours, p122 • An exclusive 12-bottle case of red wine from Laithwaites, p124 • Grow your own herbs, p126

Recipesforeveryone There are at least 70 recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our many easy recipes.

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Testedandtrusted All our recipes are thoroughly tested by experts to ensure they’ll work for you. We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us.

Ethical We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world.

In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, high-welfare chicken and eggs and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #FridayFood challenge, when we use up leftovers).

HOW TO CONTACT US GENERAL ENQUIRIES

0207 150 5865 (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm) goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk BBC Good Food, Immediate Media, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT

Healthyeating Every recipe is analysed by our BANT-registered nutritionist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We flag up vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 145.

VISIT US ONLINE

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bbcgoodfood.com FOLLOW US

facebook.com/bbcgoodfood @bbcgoodfood SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

03330 162 124 buysubscriptions.com/help WEBSITE ENQUIRIES

Familiesandchildren Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by flagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes that help them to learn new skills.

Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/family-kids.

Eatinglikealocal One of the joys of travel – both in the UK and overseas – is discovering great food. Our features are written from an insider perspective by on-the-ground writers and food and travel journalists.

Independentandrespected As you’d expect from a BBC brand, we are impartial and independent, so you can trust our advice and recommendations on everything from restaurants and wine to kitchen gadgets and more. We encourage your input on your local finds, and appreciate your feedback on our recommendations.

0207 150 5845 goodfoodwebsite@immediate.co.uk READER OFFER ENQUIRIES

020 7150 5358 liza.evans@immediate.co.uk

Foodisourpassionandpleasure We take food seriously, but we also believe it’s a pleasure to be enjoyed, whether cooking for the family, trying an unfamiliar ingredient, buying new products or eating out. We share our food discoveries and adventures with you – and love you to share the same with us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat.

BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS

For tickets: 0844 581 1363 For show enquiries: 020 3405 4286 bbcgoodfoodshow.com

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AWARDS Britain’s number one food media brand PPA Awards 2021

PPA Awards 2020

Media Brand of the Year BBC Good Food

Special Interest Brand of the Year, Gold BBC Good Food magazine

The Guild of Food Writers Awards 2020 Food Magazine of the Year BBC Good Food magazine

British Media Awards

The Drum Online Media Awards

Digital Project of the Year 2019 bbcgoodfood.com

B2C Website of the Year Award 2019 bbcgoodfood.com

8 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

AOP

Webby Award

Best Online Brand: Consumer 2019 bbcgoodfood.com

Apps, Mobile & Voice: Food & Drink 2019 BBC Good Food Voice Skill

British Media Awards

AOP Digital Publishing Awards

Launch of the Year 2018 BBC Good Food Companion App for IOS, Android & Windows

Best Digital Publishing Launch 2018 BBC Good Food Companion App for IOS, Android & Windows

PPA Digital Awards Digital Launch of the Year 2018 BBC Good Food companion launch app

index

108

make it, snap it, post it

Lemon & green pesto pasta 52 Mushroom & mash pie 66 One-pan carrot & cumin soup 40 Red lentil pasta with creamy tomato & pepper sauce 85 Salsa verde baked eggs 59 Sanjeev’s pau bhaji 116 Smoky tomato gazpacho 58 Supergreen soup with yogurt & pine nuts 86 Tuscan-style ribollita 106

@bbcgoodfood #bbcgoodfood

SIDES, DRINKS & EXTRAS

INSTANT

RECIPE FINDER MEAT

Quick chana chicken curry 80 Roast guinea fowl with white wine, tomatoes & olives 96 Soy & chilli chicken with peppers & peanuts 68 Spicy yogurt chicken 86

Beef shin & prune borsch 128 Chorizo veg fritters 49 Merguez sausage baps & harissa ketchup 34 Next level spaghetti bolognese 64 Pork & squash goulash FISH & SEAFOOD in this issue Cod & beetroot hash browns 80 cobbler 87 Sausage & fennel Lemony tuna, tomato & caper one-pot pasta 63 orecchiette 61 Sausage & mash pie 66 Macher jhol (Bengali fish curry) 29 Roasted cod with zingy beetroot Sausage & mushroom cottage pie 80 Sausage & mushroom ragu 50 salad 60 Salmon flash-fried rice 51 Speedy sausage stroganoff tagliatelle 63 Steak diane 132 Spiced crab mac ‘n’ cheese 38

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recipes

POULTRY

VEGETARIAN MAINS

Duck & watermelon noodle salad 146 Lemon orzo chicken 58 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE One-pot spiced roast chicken 36 Pineapple chicken & veg wraps 53 RECIPE KEY

Vegan

Vegetarian

Baked mücver (courgette & feta bake) 72 Chipotle celeriac tacos 22 Easy shakshuka 81 Feta & roasted tomato shakshuka 72 Feta, herb & spring onion borek 74 Balanced

Low cal

Low fat

Gluten free

BAKING & DESSERTS

Akara (African doughnuts) 134 Apple & hazelnut galette 78 Apple hand pies 78 Chai caramel chocolate brownies 42 Cheese, cumin & onion seed cornbread muffins 40 Cookies & cream fridge cake 75 Frozen tropical fruit yogurt 86 Jewish honey cake 55 No-bake chocolate pretzel tart 98 Plum, lemon & ricotta cake 108 Rainbow cake 102

Suitable for freezing

This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure that our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print. Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Walstead Bicester in the UK. Text paper Novapress, supplied by StoraEnso from Veitsiluoto Mill in Finland. Immediate Media is working to ensure that all of its paper is sourced from well managed forests. This magazine is printed on Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified paper.

This magazine can be recycled, for use in newspapers and packaging. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, visit bbcgoodfood.com, email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk or write to Christine Hayes, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT.

10 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Cassis spritz 137 Cheat’s rouille 81 Chimichurri 81 Cinnamon tea 137 Coleslaw with tahini yogurt dressing 86 Fig, burrata & prosciutto tartine 106 Green beans with shallots & tarragon 96 Griddled aubergines with yogurt & mint 86 Harissa baked beans 34 Hasselback potatoes 130 Homemade harissa hummus 80 Nasi lemak 92 Nuts & seeds granola 14 Parmesan potatoes 96 Peach & cardamom jam 110 Pesto 81 Pink pickled onions 22 Pizza-style toast 81 Plum brandy 137 Quick harissa 81 Quick pepper bruschetta 81 Romesco 81 Salsa verde 81 Seafood spice blend 38 Smoky tomato sauce 80 Soul reviver cocktail 137 Spiced burger sauce 80

BBC Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email info@tnauk.org.uk; or call 01435 866102. If you are enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them first.

THIS IS YOUR What have you been cooking, sharing and discussing? Good Food’s Tami Aktar wants to hear from you – our wonderful community of readers You can get in touch with Tami through our social channels, or email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk

COOKING THE COVER It was great to see so many of you making our big barbecue chicken kebab from the August issue. Yours (below) looks fantastic, Charlotte!

Star letter I love reading your feedback and stories, and this one made me smile.

I make a meal plan and shopping list no-cook dinners every week and Good Food is always right by my side. I use both my subscription issues and the BBC Good Food website to pick and choose recipes to follow or simply be inspired. Deciding what to cook and serve my family always feels like the biggest chore but the July issue made it so much easier.

I followed the midweek recipe suggestions as they all sounded right up our family’s street.

Five 15-minute, no-cook dinners: what’s not to like? What a bonus that the shopping list is included too! We loved the recipes and I’ll no doubt be making them all multiple times throughout this summer.

Karen Tinney, Uddingston, Scotland 15-minute meals

#cookthecover

Whip up vibrant, wholesome recipes in just 15 minutes no hob or oven required recipes LIBERTY MENDEZ photographs HAYLEY BENOIT

£3.25 per serving

▲ @th etastydia ries

SUBSCRIBEFOREXCLUSIVERECIPES Get access to exclusive subscriber recipes – turn to p46 for details.

Ellen Cross from Hampshire got in touch to share a wonderful way to repurpose old subscriptions and our exclusive recipes. ‘It’s been a year since I took out a subscription to BBC Good Food magazine, and as my flat is very small with limited storage space,

12 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

I’ve decided to convert my old magazine issues into a scrapbook,’ she says. ‘The scrapbook will have in it the recipes I’ve made along with a photo of my attempts. For every new issue I get, an old one from last year will be added to the scrapbook.’

What you’ve been sharing I was curious to find out from the GF Together group what recipe inspired them to get cooking. Here’s one of my highlights.

Your food inspiration Every Friday when I was little, it was Nanny Witch Day (a name that stuck through the many grandchildren). My mum or dad would take us to my grandmother’s house along with a few of my aunties and cousins would all meet there. She would cook cauliflower cheese and potato pie with different spices. For afters, she would always make the best apple pie. I can never make pastry like it! I’m so sad that my girls will never have this experience with Nanny Witch. Those were the best days ever.

Hannah Bettison, West Sussex

Virtual reality?

Memory lane

What a gift it was to witness Ann and Leigh’s first socially distanced meet-up.

They met on the Good Food Together Facebook group, and have formed a life-long bond through their shared love of food – specifically cake. It’s only customary for their first meeting to be a cake tour of the north-east!

Natasha Brookes from Cheshire unearthed a blast from the past while flicking through her collection of cooking and craft magazines.

What a surprise to find this issue of BBC Good Food from February 1999.

Marianne Ramsay (now White) from West Lothian also found the first ever issue from November 1989.

That’s older than me!

JOIN OUR FACEBOOK COMMUNITY, BBC GOOD FOOD TOGETHER Connect with us and others to share recipes, cooking tips and the kind acts you’re doing or noticing. Check out what everyone’s cooking and post your own kitchen creations. @bbcgoodfood

YOURTOPSIXCREATIONS You’ve been busy in the kitchen – here are some of my favourite snaps

Amy Wilson, London

Dee Robinson, London

Benn Egan, Greenock, Scotland

Laura Billington, Cheshire

Lavania Olaban, Birmingham

Leigh Brannon, Durham

Turn the page to see reader Kim’s nuts & seeds granola

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 13

Your recipes NUTS &SEEDS GRANOLA From Good Food reader Kim Marsh photograph HAYLEY BENOIT

I developed this recipe after many failed attempts to find a shopbought granola I really liked.

I found many of them to be overly sweet and full of added preservatives, so I decided to develop my own recipe, incorporating my favourite ingredients, flavours and textures.

150g rolled oats 150g mixed nuts (we used whole hazelnuts, flaked almonds and whole pecans) 50g mixed seeds (we used a mixed bag containing sunflower, pumpkin, hemp and golden linseed) 50g raisins 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /4 tsp sea salt 1 tsp almond extract (vanilla works well too, if you prefer) 50ml vegetable oil 100ml maple syrup milk or yogurt, and fruit (optional), to serve

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Line a large baking sheet with baking parchment to prevent the granola from sticking. Put all of the dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Whisk together the almond extract, vegetable oil and maple syrup in a jug, then pour into the bowl with the dry ingredients.

2 Mix together well, making sure that all the dry ingredients are well coated and that there are no dry bits. Tip the mixture onto the lined baking sheet and spread out in an even layer. Cook for about 25-30 mins until golden. You will

need to give the mixture a few turns every 8-10 mins to make sure it dries out evenly and doesn’t clump together too much. Keep an eye on it as nuts can burn easily.

3 Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely on the tray. Break up any large clumps of granola with a wooden spoon. Will keep for up to one month in an airtight container.

Serve with milk or yogurt, and fresh seasonal fruit, if you like.

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist ROB MERRETT

SERVES 10 (makes about 550g) PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 277 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 2g • carbs 21g • sugars 10g • fibre 3g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

14 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Become a member at bbcgoodfood.com With over 13,000 recipes to choose from, you’re sure to find plenty of inspiration on our website.

Create a free My Good Food account and opt in to receive recipe recommendations direct to your inbox.

JOIN US FOR LUNCH WITH BBC CHEF TOM KERRIDGE

Subscribers are invited to The Coach in Marlow on 12 October

FREE GOODY BAG WORTH £25 (see p26)

• SHARING MENU • MEAT

E

njoy a specially devised three-course sharing menu with BBC chef Tom Kerridge at his gastropub The Coach in picturesque Marlow, Buckinghamshire. Within its relaxed, informal surroundings, Tom showcases the finest local ingredients in a range of modern French-British small plates.

An open kitchen is led by the chefs. You’ll be seated around the bar or at communal tables, giving you the chance to meet members of the Good Food team and fellow subscribers while experiencing the warm, convivial atmosphere that sets The Coach apart. You’ll be greeted with a glass of cider when you arrive, and, after a three-course lunch of sharing plates, you’ll receive a foodie goody bag worth £25 to take home. @TheCoachMarlow

DATE Tuesday 12 October LOCATION The Coach, Marlow, thecoachmarlow.co.uk TIME 1-4pm THE PRICE £98 per person for magazine subscribers, including cider on arrival and two glasses of house wine per person

Duck liver parfait with fig & cherry chutney Chicken kiev with cauliflower cheese Beef bourguignon with red wine & beef fat mash •• MEAT-FREE Mushroom ‘risotto’ claude bosi Cornish pollock scotch egg with shellfish bisque Buttered hispi cabbage The Coach chips with bearnaise •• SWEET The Coach profiteroles with hot chocolate sauce Banana custard with dates, honeycomb & pistachios

TO BOOK visit goodfoodsubscriber.seetickets.com/go/coach FOR QUERIES email bbcgfevents@immediate.co.uk NOT A SUBSCRIBER? For a chance to attend exclusive events like this, subscribe today.

You’ll be the first to get invited to exclusive dinners, workshops, tastings and more.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY AT buysubscriptions.com/GFEATS21

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 15

THE HOUSE

by Clarence Court

Each freshly laid Clarence Court egg is unique. These colourful treasures are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating from rare breed ancestors. Their heritage gives them a unique hue and flavour reminiscent of a bygone era. For eggs how they should be, simply look for the crown.

Cook’s

calendar

What to do in September Make the most of the month with our kitchen to-do list, seasonal recipes and our food and drink recommendations compiled by ANNA LAWSON, ESTHER CLARK, MARIANNE VOYLE, FIONA FORMAN, KEITH KENDRICK

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 17

kitchen projects

10 THINGS TO The Good Food team shares their kitchen to-do list, plus Emma Crawforth from BBC Gardeners World on what to plant

1

LOVE YOUR LUNCHBOX BACK-TO-SCHOOL MEALS Invest in some new Tupperware with multiple compartments and smaller containers for dips and dressings. Remember most schools have a no-nut policy and some schools don’t allow sesame. If this is the case, in the ideas below, replace tahini with sunflower or pumpkin seed butter and hummus with tzatziki.

• Falafel box Pack a few homemade or shop-bought falafel into a box with hummus for dunking, chopped veg and strips of pitta.

• Sesame noodles Toss egg noodles with soy, tahini, lime juice and thinly sliced veg like red pepper and spring onion. Top with sesame seeds.

• Fruity sundae Layer yogurt, berries and compote in a jar or pot, and top with some crunchy granola, coconut shavings or seeds.

• Oaty bites Make a batch of healthy flapjacks or energy balls using oats and dried fruit to keep them well-fuelled. Try our ‘feelgood flapjacks’ on bbcgoodfood.com.

2

GET ORGANISED

TIME FOR A BREW

As the colder days start to draw in, the first thing to be raided is the tea cupboard. It’s a good idea to organise what you have, making sure you’re well stocked with all the essentials.

Find our guide to the best tea infusers and strainers at bbcgoodfood.com/review/ best-tea-infusers-strainers.

Diary dates

ALL MONTH HARVEST FESTIVAL

18 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

6-10 SEPTEMER ZERO WASTE WEEK

cook’s calendar

DO THIS MONTH 3

GO FORAGING DISCOVER DAMSONS Arriving later in the year than the sweeter plum varieties, damsons can be found wild in hedgerows but the season is short and, once picked, they need to be cooked quickly before spoiling. Damsons are too sour to eat on their own but are fabulous in jam, or can be turned into a ‘cheese’ similar to quince paste to serve with regular cheese, game, pork or duck. Damsons also make a welcome addition to a seasonal crumble, or homemade gin.

Find recipes on bbcgoodfood.com.

4

CLEAN SUSTAINABLY

USE WHITE VINEGAR Try these eco-friendly cleaning ideas in your kitchen: Deodorise your sink Mix equal parts vinegar with baking powder, pour down the sink, put the plug in for five minutes, then rinse with hot water.

Clean your oven Mix equal parts vinegar, washing-up liquid and coarse salt to make a paste that will lift grease and grime.

In the dishwasher Use vinegar instead of glass cleaner – you’ll get the same sparkle for half the price!

5

MAKE A SHOPPING LIST ESSENTIAL BUYS FOR SEPTEMBER Dried mushrooms Most mushroom dishes can be enhanced by adding dried mushrooms, which have a more potent flavour. Add some to a mushroom risotto or in a broth for a vegan ramen.

Custard Crumble season approaches! Homemade

custard is wonderful, but a good long-life custard is a great alternative to have on hand for a midweek pud.

Almond or hazelnut liqueur Autumnal fruits like plums, apples and pears all pair well with nutty flavours – add a splash of liqueur to a compote

10 SEPTEMER GANESH CHATURTHI

or to coffee or hot chocolate for a boozy treat.

Popping corn For a great lunchbox filler, try adding warming spices such as garam masala or smoked paprika to popcorn.

15-16 SEPTEMER YOM KIPPUR SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 19

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6

PRESERVE THE SEASON

DECLUTTER

USE UP APPLES Use up seasonal Bramley apples in a pie (see page 76) or preserve them so you can enjoy the crop year-round.

• Make a compote with sultanas, cinnamon and sugar. Freeze in small batches. Perfect for topping yogurt or porridge.

• Whip up a tangy chutney to serve alongside cheese.

• Toss apple chunks in lemon juice and freeze in a flat layer. Transfer the pieces to a freezer-proof container, then use from frozen in pies, tarts and crumbles. Find recipes online at bbcgoodfood.com.

COOKBOOK OVERHAUL If you’re a keen cook you’re bound to have an overflowing stack of cookbooks, perhaps some more used than others.

Rearrange and clear through the books that you’ve never used (charity shops will thank you for them) and dust off your favourites, then arrange in an order that suits you. Try ordering them by colour, season, cuisine or in order of your most to least used. It makes for a satisfying and useful kitchen task.

8 9

FILL YOUR FREEZER GET BATCH-COOKING If you have kids, the schools reopening means you might have more time to spend in the kitchen – ideal for batch-cooking and freezing meals for when life gets busy. If you’re using a recipe, multiplying the amounts and freezing some for another time only takes a bit more effort and uses the same amount of energy. Plus, buying ingredients in bulk can offer better value. Visit bbcgoodfood.com for hundreds of batch-cook recipes, plus guides to batch-cooking for beginners and home freezing. Every month in the magazine you’ll find a recipe that can easily be doubled and frozen, too. See page 66 for this month’s comforting bangers & mash pie.

ADD TO YOUR SKILLS

JOIN A GOOD FOOD WEBINAR Sign up to one of our online lessons hosted by members of our cookery team to learn new skills. Try one of our on-demand masterclasses – watch any time at your convience – and brush up on your baking skills, from ‘Better bakes in 10 steps’ where you’ll learn to pipe icing like a professional and knead and shape bread, to ‘Mastering macarons’ which is full of patisserie tips.

Look out for our upcoming cake-decorating class in September. Visit bbcgoodfood.com/learn for details.

To join a masterclass, go to bbcgoodfood.com/learn and sign up to become a My GF member

20 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

cook’s calendar

Photographs ZUZANA GAJDOSIKOVA/EYEEM/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, KALI9/E+/GETTY, MARTIN POOLE/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY

SMALL CHANGES, BIG IMPACT

10 CHANGE FOR THE BETTER

GET GARDENING IT’S TIME TO: • Ripen pumpkins by placing them on a brick so the skins harden in the sun • Harvest maincrop potatoes by digging them up and leaving the skins to dry for a few hours on the ground before storing • Plant out spring cabbage seedlings • Sow Japanese onions and mizuna outside • Cut out the flowered canes of blackberries and tie in new ones • Dig up and pot up herb plants to use indoors over winter • Continue to harvest tomatoes, aubergines, peppers, blackberries, beetroot, carrots, herbs, lettuces and cabbages

Young people call for a better food system

A

s part of the National Food Strategy published in 2021, The Food Foundation carried out a Youth Engagement report, Your Future, Your Food, asking young people aged nine to 22 to contribute their thoughts. These are their conclusions.

EDUCATION, ENVIRONMENT AND EQUALITY 1. Young people want more education about the food system and how it affects us and the world around us. The way food production and food waste impacts planetary health should be included in the curriculum, as well as healthy cooking skills and nutrition. There should also be more advertising of healthy foods and clearer consumer information on food in relation to this.

2. Young people want decision-makers in business and the government to transform our food system into one that does not harm the environment, as well as changes that enable a shift in consumer diets, such as more meat-free options and greener packaging.

3. Young people want healthy and sustainable diets to become accessible and affordable for all. They want to see action on the relative price of healthy and unhealthy food, investment in healthy food businesses and schemes to enable healthy eating for low-income households.

You can read the full report as well as the National Food Strategy recommendations at nationalfoodstrategy.org.

& Can we kick-start a major transformation of our food system in just three years? Sheila Dillon examines the ambitions behind the National Food Strategy review with its author Henry Dimbleby. Search BBC Sounds for The Food Programme, Plate of the Nation: Second Serving.

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 21

Inside your veg box

C E L E R I AC Knobbly celeriac certainly doesn’t take home any beauty prizes but it does get top marks for its earthy, nutty flavour and robust texture. Try it roasted in these spicy tacos with cooling avocado crema and zingy pickled onions recipe ESTHER CLARK photograph YUKI SUGIURA

Make this recipe vegan by using vegan butter, leaving out the feta and swapping honey for agave syrup – it works just as well. The pickled onions are optional but add welcome zing and crunch.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 large celeriac (900g unprepped), cut into 3cm cubes 1 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp chipotle chilli paste 3 tbsp honey 2 tbsp melted butter 8 small corn tacos crumbled feta (optional) For the avocado crema 2 ripe avocados, peeled and stoned 2 limes, juiced 1 small garlic clove, crushed For the salsa 1 small bunch of coriander, finely chopped 3 large, ripe tomatoes 1 lime, zested and juiced

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 4. Toss the celeriac pieces on a baking tray with the oil and 1/2 tsp salt. Roast for 20 mins, turning halfway. Mix together the chipotle, honey and butter in a small bowl, toss with the celeriac, then return to the oven for 10-15 mins or until cooked through and beginning to caramelise.

2 Meanwhile, make the crema.

Blitz the avocado, lime and garlic in a food processor with 100ml water and a good pinch of salt until smooth and creamy.

3 Make the salsa by tossing all the ingredients together in a bowl and season to taste. Warm through the tacos either in a small frying pan over a medium heat for 1-2 mins or in a microwave. Pile the celeriac, crema and salsa into the tacos, crumble over the cheese, if using, along with pink pickled onions (see recipe, right) and enjoy.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 514 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 8g •

Pink pickled onions MAKES 500ml jar PREP 5mins plus cooling COOK 5 mins EASY V

200ml white wine vinegar 3 tbsp caster sugar 2 tsp coriander seeds, crushed ¼ tsp chilli flakes 2 red onions, thinly sliced

Put the vinegar, sugar, coriander seeds, chilli flakes, 1 tbsp salt and 100ml water in a pan over a medium heat. Bring to a simmer for 5 mins, stirring occasionally until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Put the onions in a large bowl and pour over the warm pickling liquid, then leave to cool at room temperature. Once cool, they are ready to serve. Will keep in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to one week.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • gluten free PER 50G SERVING 25 kcals • fat 0.1g • saturates none • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • fibre 1g • protein 0.4g • salt 0.5g

carbs 41g • sugars 20g • fibre 20g • protein 9g • salt 1.8g

OUR FAVOURITE CELERIAC RECIPES Try a comforting celeriac gratin.

Like dauphinoise potatoes, the celeriac is thinly sliced, then baked in cream sauce and topped with molten cheese.

WARMING SOUPS

CELERIAC REMOULADE

MAKE IT CHEESY

A classic celeriac dish, it’s cut into matchsticks and tossed with a silky mayo and crème fraîche dressing. This pairs well with cold beef or cured salmon.

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Celeriac in soup is always delicious.

Browse our favourite recipes on bbcgoodfood. com, from simple bowlfuls to a luxury starter laced with truffle oil.

*For full terms and conditions, see page 44.

TOP CELERIAC FACTS Celeriac also goes by the name of celery root, knob celery and turnip-rooted celery.

Originally cultivated in the Mediterranean, it was first introduced in Britain in the 18th century.

Celeriac can last several months if kept in a cool dark place, but over time its intense celery flavour will weaken.

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist WEI TANG

Chipotle celeriac tacos

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next month Mushrooms New ways with this autumnal favourite, including a twist on eggs benedict, in our October issue on sale 23 September

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 23

r u o w Fo llo

7-DAY MEAL PLAN If you lead a busy life, you may feel you don’t have enough time to think about what you’re going to cook every night. However, setting aside an hour to plan a menu and shopping list for the next seven days will save you lots of time when flitting between other things.

onday

We share some of the recipes we’re excited to cook from this issue and on bbcgoodfood.com

MEAT-FREE MONDAY LUNCH Carrot soup

DINNER Red lentil pasta

Start the week with this healthy and filling breakfast – just add yogurt and fruit. page 14

A big batch of soup (with cheesy muffins for dunking) is ideal for taking to work. page 40

Who can resist a big bowl of pasta, especially when it counts as three of your five-a-day? page 85

Tuesday

BREAKFAST Fruit & nut granola

SEASONAL SOUP BREAKFAST South American-style quinoa with fried eggs

Wednesday

Filling, healthy and packed with protein for energetic days. find the recipe online

LUNCH Ribollita

DINNER Feta borek

This hearty Tuscan-inspired soup that uses day-old bread will keep you satisfied until dinner. page 106

Ready in an hour, this simple but impressive dish works well if you’re entertaining midweek. page 74

FUSS FREE BREAKFAST 3-minute banana pancakes You don’t need to weigh out any ingredients here, just blitz in a blender and flip! find the recipe online

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LUNCH Salmon flash-fried rice A family-friendly one-pan dish that’s ready in just 10 minutes. page 51

SPEEDY DINNER Paneer korma Ready in just 30 mins, this packs a punch for an easy and aromatic midweek meal. find the recipe online

Thursday

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LUNCH Salsa verde baked eggs

SNACK Hummus

When you’re working from home, this quick, healthy one-pan ticks all the boxes for lunch. page 59

Make a batch of hummus and store it in the fridge for when you need a quick snack. Enjoy with warm pittas. find the recipe online

Friday Saturday

FOR COLD NIGHTS

DINNER Pesto sausage traybake

This effortless traybake is healthy and ideal for the whole family on busy weeknights. find the recipe online

FRIDAY TREAT BAKE Spiced chai brownies

COCKTAIL Gimlet

Make something sweet for the weekend – these won’t hang around for long! page 42

Celebrate the end of the week with this refreshing gin cocktail. find the recipe online

FAKEAWAY DINNER Duck & watermelon noodle salad Make Friday night special with this vibrant and satisfying duck recipe. page 146

MAKE A BATCH FOR NOW OR LATER Peach & cardamom jam

SATURDAY TREAT Steak diane Try our foolproof, next-level recipe with a creamy mustard and brandy sauce. page 132

Impress friends with a platter of these for lunch or a starter. page 106

Sunday

Relax at the weekend by making a special batch of jam to gift at Christmas, or enjoy it straightaway. page 110

SHARING LUNCH Fig & burrata tartines

GET BAKING BREAKFAST Maple-glazed streaky bacon in a brioche bun Sweet and salty flavours combine for a Sunday morning pick-me-up. find the recipe online

DINNER One-pot spiced chicken

WEEKEND PROJECT Salted caramel cupcakes

This roast with mint and cashew chutney is a refreshing alternative to a traditional Sunday lunch. page 36

Kids can help make these caramel-flavoured cakes, topped with a smooth icing. find the recipe online

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 25

aking a difference WHY I’M REIMAGINING SCHOOL DINNERS We hear from a top chef who believes children can excel with interesting meals on the menu

School dinners have changed a bit since potato smiles and pink custard. You might expect to see dishes like chicken shawarma or edible gardens (featuring guacamole ‘grass’) on restaurant menus, but now, they’re served in some school canteens in the UK. The Chefs in Schools initiative wants to introduce more nutritious, creative meals to improve food education – notably in special educational needs schools. It began when Nicole Pisani (pictured), who was head chef at London’s Nopi, accepted a call-out on social media for a chef to work in a state primary school in Hackney.

‘The first thing I noticed was the lack of fresh produce,’ Nicole says. ‘I started by changing the menus and taught the team to cook from scratch. We took seafood into classes to make them curious about food. We realised that we could replicate this model, and co-founded the charity. We recruit a chef to train, or go into schools and help an existing team.’

Nicole now travels around the country to work with other schools, and highlights how important it is to make from-scratch meals for children.

‘You’re able to control salt, sugar and fat content, and increase nutrients,’ she says. ‘We have former street-food chefs at one school who started a fermentation station. They make koji (fermented rice) with the kids and serve it at lunch. Schools are a great place to get kids excited about food that doesn’t come from a packet.’

Louise Nichols, one of the co-founders and an exec head teacher, has seen significant changes since working with Nicole. ‘School food is often overlooked in education as one of things that helps to develop happy, healthy adults. Five years on, academic performance is some of the highest in the country, and attendance and behaviour is great.’ Head teacher Nick Mallender has seen an improvement, despite budget restrictions.

‘With the skill of a chef who can make ingredients go further, turn a cheaper cut of meat into a great meal, or cook vegetarian food well, that’s a big cost-cutter.’

Next, they plan to roll out training nationwide. ‘It would give schools the know-how to meet food standards, guidance on portion control and tips on making healthier choices more enticing,’ Nicole explains. ‘We want to raise awareness of how creative school food can be.’ MV

To find out more about Chefs in Schools, visit chefsinschools.org.uk. @chefsinschools_uk

FREE Goody bag with GF Eats Out Our GF Eats Out events celebrate the British restaurant scene (this month, at Tom Kerridge’s The Coach, see page 15), and every month, we give away a goody bag worth £25, with treats such as Belazu harissa paste and Rude Health berry bars.

26 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Sheila Dillon brings together a panel of school food visionaries, including Nicole Pisani, on The Food Programme. To listen, search BBC Sounds for School Food: Re-imagined.

Pihotographs STUART MATTHEWS/NATOORA, ISSY CROKER

&

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ANNA’S FOOD PICKS

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September’s must-haves from food and reviews writer Anna Lawson

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Cecily’s vanilla & dark choc Lovely Little Bites (162g) £5.95, cecilys.co Made from creamy, coconut-based vanilla-flavoured ice cream and covered in thick chocolate, these little bites are perfect for a snack for one, a treat for kids or a little something sweet after dinner.

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English Cheesecake vanilla with Lotus Biscoff (2 x 115g) £3, Sainsbury’s Rich, creamy and indulgent, these slices are topped with Lotus Biscoff spread and crumbled Lotus biscuits, and have a thick, crunchy biscuit base.

3

Bertinet Bakery sliced loaves (500g) from £1.95, Waitrose Sourdough bread is easier to digest than other types thanks to the slow fermentation process that breaks down the gluten. Bertinet Bakery’s special technique for achieving softer, springier bread makes this a stand-out loaf – great for packed-lunch sandwiches.

4

Stoats chewy roasted nut bars (pack of 4, 160g) £2.50, Sainsbury’s I’m not usually a fan of cereal bars, but these vitamin-packed oat and nut bars are ideal if you’re on-the-go. The dates give

them a nice sweet, squidgy, stickiness, and the mix of chia, pumpkin and sunflower seeds add some crunch.

They’re gluten-free, too.

5

Yondu vegetable umami (150ml) £4.35, Amazon Fermented from organic soya beans and eight vegetables, this 100% plant-based alternative to stock cubes is a great way to give an umami boost to vegetarian and vegan dishes. Just a teaspoon adds a nice hit of savouriness to your cooking.

I enjoyed it in a simple bowl of noodles with a good drizzle of soy sauce.

Have you tried?The Pasquale’s Peppers range If you’re a fan of heat, then this one’s for you.

Pasquale’s Peppers is a range of chilli peppers in olive oil, plus a chilli jam. The company launched during the 2020 lockdown by Serena Mariani and her husband Han Wei Teo in homage to Serena’s grandfather, Pasquale, who passed away the previous year. As a keen cook, Pasquale would often have ‘peperoncino’ (the Italian name for chilli peppers) on the table. Serena explains, ‘In Abruzzo, during the summer, it’s not uncommon for a plate of fresh chillies to be brought to the table, along with a pair of scissors, in authentic trattorias. Served together with salt,

pepper and parmesan, they’re snipped onto the food according to each diner’s taste.’ She adds, ‘This is the experience I wanted to replicate with Pasquale’s Peppers – fresh, vibrant chilli, elevated by high-quality extra virgin olive oil, to enhance whatever is on your plate. It’s the Italian take on umami!’ Packed full of savoury saltiness and spice, these versatile peppers in oil (available in rosso or verde) are great scattered over pizzas, cheese on toast, spooned over eggs, used to top tacos or noodles, or stirred through pasta spiked with garlic for a simple dinner. From £6, pasqualespeppers.com

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 27

RAISE A GLASS Our pick of must-try spirits and craft beer

Really Good Beer Society Two Degrees Craft Lager The Really Good Beer Society is on a mission to help drinking beer feel even better. For every bottle or can sold from its range of six brews, the Londonbased company donates 2.5% to good causes. The range includes crisp 4.7% ABV Two Degrees Craft Lager (fighting climate change by supporting Soil Association UK); Root Cause West Coast Pale Ale (supporting Rainforest Trust UK); Pipe Dream Bohemian Pilsner (funding water projects through Charity:Water); Tidal Save Session IPA (combatting

ocean plastics via Ocean Generation); Hive PA Hazy NEIPA (supporting the Bumblebee Conservation Trust) and Wunderkind DIPA, transforming the lives of children through the charity Right to Play. Available as singles or cases. From £2.20, reallygoodbeers.com

gin

Silent Pool Green Man Woodland Gin Silent Pool Distillers has launched a new gin with a clever concept – it’s the first ever spirit in a cardboard bottle, which is made from 94% recycled paper. Not only is this bottle five times lighter than the glass alternative, saving emissions through transportation, it has a carbon footprint six times lower than other gin bottles and is fully recyclable. The gin itself is distilled with birch leaves, pine and fir trees for a herbaceous, woody flavour – an homage to the woodlands that inspired it. Enjoy in a G&T or negroni. 42% ABV, £30, silentpooldistillers.com

mezcal

Ojo de Dias Mezcal Joven Unlike other mezcals, which can be intensely smoky, this has a slight, subtle smokiness as well as being smooth and sweet, with notes of vanilla and

caramelised pineapple, then a hint of pepper to finish. Made from 100% Espadin agave, sustainably grown in the San Luis del Rio region of Oaxaca (a location highly regarded for mezcal production), the agave hearts are cooked in an underground oven for 10 days before being distilled in small batches. Smooth enough to sip on its own, it’s also great in cocktails – try with equal parts Campari and vermouth for a twist on a negroni, or in place of tequila in a paloma or margarita. 42% ABV, £42.12, mexgrocer.co.uk

non-alcoholic aperetif

Wilfred’s British Non-Alcoholic Aperitif For a late summer spritz without the booze, this nonalcoholic aperitif is just the ticket. A little like Campari, here the emphasis is on the bitterness to round off the drink. It successfully blends rosemary with bitter orange, sweet rhubarb and a hefty hit of clove, without tasting too Christmassy. Instead, it’s packed with zesty and woody herbaceous notes, as well having that bitter edge. Best served over ice with tonic in a refreshing booze-free spritz, but it can also be used in non-alcoholic cocktails.

0% ABV, £18, wilfredsdrinks.com

,

WE ARE

Each month, we introduce you to the experts who create content for your favourite food brand

VICTORIA PREVER As well as contributing traditional Jewish recipes and holiday guides for BBC Good Food, Victoria Prever is the food editor at The Jewish Chronicle. Her passion for the subject is reflected in her bold decision to leave behind a legal career to train as a professional chef at Leiths School of Food and Wine. She’s also

28 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

made numerous television appearances, including on BBC One’s Sunday Morning Live. Turn to page 54 to make her honey cake for a sweet way to celebrate Rosh Hashanah (the Jewish New Year, 6-8 September). You can find more of Victoria’s recipes and articles at bbcgoodfood.com/author/ victoriaprever.

Drinks reviews KEITH KENDRICK, ANNA LAWSON, ANNA GLOVER, MIRIAM NICE

beer

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T V chef ASMA KHAN’S FRIDAY NIGHT CURRY

‘In Bengal, the fish used for this recipe would be rohu, a local carp, which requires some skill to debone.

It makes sense to use fish that has been filleted to make things easier.

If you can source a good mustard oil, it gives this dish a wonderful flavour (see tip below).’ Asma

Get the weekend started with this Bengali dish

Macher jhol (Bengali fish curry) SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus marinating COOK 35 mins EASY

1.5kg skinless, boneless fish fillets, such as cod or halibut 1½ tsp ground turmeric 6 tbsp vegetable oil or mustard oil (see tip, right) 1 large white onion, finely grated 4 garlic cloves, crushed

2.5cm piece of ginger, finely grated 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp medium chilli powder 3 tbsp tomato purée 200g large tomatoes, cut into 2.5cm cubes green chilli and a few sprigs of coriander, to serve

1 Cut the fish fillets into 12 equal portions. Mix together 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp of the turmeric, then rub all over the fish. Set aside for 30 mins.

2 Heat 5 tbsp of the oil in a shallow saucepan over a medium-high heat.

If using mustard oil, set over a medium-high heat until it’s smoking hot – to remove the bitter pungency of the oil – then turn down to a medium-high heat. Add the fish and fry on each side for 1-2 mins to seal, but don’t let them cook through.

Remove to a plate and set aside.

3 Tip the onion, garlic and ginger into the pan and cook, stirring, for 2 mins over a medium-high heat.

If the paste is sticking to the base of the pan, add a splash of water.

Add 2 tsp salt and the remaining turmeric, then the coriander, cumin, chilli powder, tomato purée and tomatoes. Pour in 600ml warm water slightly cooled from the kettle and cook for 5 mins to bring to a simmer. Leave on a medium-high heat to reduce for 15 mins or until the oil comes to the surface and seeps to the sides of the pan.

4 Gently return the fish to the pan, ensuring that each piece is covered with the gravy so that all sides cook evenly. If possible, cook the fish pieces in a single layer to prevent them from breaking up into flakes.

Lower the heat, add 1/2 tsp sugar and cook, with the lid on, until the fillets are cooked through – this should take no longer than 5 mins. Serve garnished with the chilli and coriander leaves.

tip Pure mustard oil cannot be sold as food in Britain. Edible types are blends that contain less than 5 per cent erucic acid, a substance that has been linked to heart disease.

GOOD TO KNOW low cal • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 327 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 1g • carbs 6g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 44g • salt 3.1g

TV & RADIO PICKS The Hairy Bikers Go North Si King and Dave Myers return to their northern roots in this new eight-part series, travelling through Lancashire, Cumbria, Yorkshire, Derbyshire, Northumberland and Newcastle. They meet food producers and restaurateurs who are revolutionising the British food scene. Watch in September on BBC Two or catch up on BBC iPlayer.

Recipe adapted from Asma’s Indian Kitchen (£20, Pavilion Books).

Photographs Kim Lightbody.

Asma Khan has also been a guest chef on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen Live.

by KATHRYN CUSTANCE

Celebrity MasterChef After four weeks of intense competition, the remaining celebs, through to the semi-finals, contend with creative sandwich-making, a themed challenge around the iconic seventies film Abigail’s Party, and cook a dish of their own design for three demanding restaurant critics.

Watch weekday evenings on BBC One or catch up on BBC iPlayer.

My Life in Five Dishes The Food Chain on BBC World Service is always a good listen, and this is one of our favourite strands. Each programme tells a food lover’s life story through five memorable dishes. Gems from this year include Raymond Blanc, Alice Waters, Nigella Lawson and Yotam Ottolenghi.

Search ‘My Life in Five Dishes’ on BBC Sounds.

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 29

THIS MONTH’S

Wish list

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Get ready for going back to work, school or uni with Anna Lawson’s useful buys

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Earth Rainbow lunch bag £5, sassandbelle.co.uk We love this bargain lunch bag, which is insulated to keep food cool and made from recycled plastic bottles.

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Eco Bravo gold portable cutlery set £13.95, ecobravo.co.uk Pack this reusable stainless steel cutlery set for lunch on-the-go – it comes with a fork, spoon, straws and chopsticks – in its own cloth bag.

3

Black & Blum insulated stainless steel food flask (400ml) £24.75, andkeep.com This sleek insulated food flask is great for keeping soup or stew hot, or keeping salads cold, and comes with a spoon attached.

30 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

4

Snack boxes set £5.95, rexlondon.com Ideal for kids’ lunches, this trio of snack boxes come in a range of cute designs, and they’re dishwasher-safe, which is very handy.

5

TOPL smart reusable coffee cup from £27.99, toplcup.com This clever cup not only keeps drinks hot for hours, the lid also has anti-spill technology.

We love the colours, and it can be personalised.

6

Keep Leaf reusable cotton food baggie £5.95, andkeep.com A sustainable alternative to cling film and sandwich bags, this sealable cotton bag with a water-resistant liner can fit small sandwiches, rolls or snacks inside, and is machine-washable.

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Kitchen Craft stainless steel coffee measure and bag clip £7.95, hartsofstur.com Make your own coffee at the office? Keep it fresh with this handy bag clip, which also doubles up as a coffee scoop.

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Sho Original 2.0 water bottle from £19.99, shoreusable.com A reusable water bottle is a must for staying hydrated at work, uni or on-the-go. Sho’s bottles can be personalised online by choosing from different colours and designs for both the bottle and lid. Plus, they keep drinks hot for 12 hours and cold for 24 (we’ve tested these claims and they’re true!).

Recipe photograph CLARE WINFIELD © RYLAND PETERS & SMALL

For more product reviews and gift guides, visit bbcgoodfood.com/reviews

cook’s calendar

BOOKS FOR COOKS What Fiona Forman is cooking this month

Comfort Mob

MUST-TRY RECIPE

(£18.99, Hodder & Stoughton) This book is pure delicious joy. Whatever you fancy – lasagne, a really good chicken pie, toad-in-the hole, noodles, a spicy curry, cheeseburger, or warm, gooey chocolate orange pud – you’ll find it in this feel-good collection, with delicious twists crammed into every recipe. Perfect for autumnal cooking and colder nights.

Must-try recipe French onion mac & cheese Tom Aikens

CHARITY

COOK BOOK

Two’s Company

5 Minute Feast

by Orlando Murrin (£18.99, Ryland Peters & Small) If you’re cooking for two, you’ll often find yourself scaling down recipes or eating leftovers for days on the trot. Former Good Food editor Orlando Murrin has cleverly solved this problem with this book for two.

His recipes are exciting but doable and, above all, comforting, with dishes like easy cheesy enchiladas and fudgy chocolate lava pudding.

Cookbooks are rarely funny, but this one is – I love Orlando’s witty intros and cooking tips.

Must-try recipe Paella in the oven (above)

by Tom Aikens (£15, order from onlyapavementaway.co.uk) Chef Tom Aikens started the #fiveminutefeast challenge during the pandemic, encouraging people to share recipes and donate £5 to Only a Pavement Away, a charity that supports those facing homelessness. The cookbook features 50 speedy winning recipes from the challenge, and all proceeds go to the charity.

Must-try recipe Prawn summer rolls

MORE FROM BBC GOOD FOOD Homemade Christmas magazine Kick-start your festive prep with Christmas menus, décor ideas and more. On sale 27 August, £5.99.

On your tablet Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store.

Good Food how-to videos Sharpen your cookery skills with our videos. Find over 200 at bbcgoodfood. com/feature/videos.

Tune in for lively chats with the Good Food team, Tom Kerridge and Britain’s best and brightest in food.

AVAILABLE AT bbcgoodfood.com/podcast

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 31

PASTA PUTTANESCA For this and many more authentic recipes visit napolina.com

cover story

spıce New ways with

We all have a go-to spice for pepping up recipes – here, we’ve elevated a few of our favourite dishes with spice-rack staples and exciting new blends. From comforting mac ‘n’ cheese to squidgy caramel brownies, simple dishes are transformed. Just remember, for the best flavour, use spices that are less than six months old recipes GOOD FOOD TEAM photographs KAREN THOMAS

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 33

Merguez sausage baps & harissa ketchup North African merguez sausages are made with lamb and richly spiced with chilli, cumin and fennel. They’re irresistible topped with a crispy fried egg and served in a soft bap alongside smoky homemade ketchup – a riff on a classic breakfast bap. If you can’t get hold of merguez, try using another spiced sausage, such as a good-quality cooking chorizo.

SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

8 merguez sausages 2 tbsp vegetable oil 4 eggs 4 crusty white baps chopped parsley and chilli flakes, to serve (optional) For the harissa ketchup 3 tbsp olive oil 2 red onions, chopped 2 celery sticks, roughly chopped 2 large garlic cloves, chopped 2 tsp coriander seeds, crushed 2 tsp fennel seeds, crushed ½ tsp ras el hanout 1-2 tbsp rose harissa 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 80g light brown soft sugar 80ml balsamic vinegar

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1 First, make the harissa ketchup.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and fry the onions and celery with a pinch of salt for 10 mins until softened. Add the garlic, coriander seeds, fennel seeds and ras el hanout, and fry for 2 mins more.

Stir in the harissa, tomatoes and 300ml water. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for around 15-20 mins, stirring often until the mixture is reduced and thickened.

Remove from the heat, tip into a food processor and blitz until smooth. Or, use a hand blender.

Sieve through a fine mesh sieve into a clean saucepan to remove any seeds, then add the sugar and vinegar and simmer uncovered for 10-15 mins, stirring often until saucy and shiny. Season well. Pour

into a 500ml sterilised bottle or jar and leave to cool completely.

Will keep in the fridge for up to two weeks.

2 Curl the sausages into a spiral shape and secure with a wooden skewer, if you like (or leave as they are). Fry in batches over a mediumhigh heat in half the vegetable oil for 5 mins on each side until golden brown and cooked through. Remove to a plate. Fry the eggs in the rest of the oil until golden and crisp at the edges. Split the baps and spread the bases with some of the harissa ketchup, then top each with two sausages, a fried egg, some parsley and chilli flakes, if using. Sandwich with the tops of the baps and serve.

PER SERVING 536 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 9g • carbs 38g • sugars 6g • fibre 4g • protein 25g • salt 2.1g

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Spiced crab mac ’n’ cheese Old Bay seasoning is an iconic spice blend from Baltimore, Maryland in the US where it’s popularly used on seafood, especially crab and shrimp. The full recipe is closely guarded, but it contains 18 herbs and spices, including paprika, celery salt, pepper and mustard. In this crab mac ‘n’ cheese, the fragrant blend balances the sweetness from the crab. Use fresh picked crab for a special occasion, but canned crab also works well for a quick family dinner.

SERVES 4-6 PREP 25 mins COOK 45 mins EASY ❄

50g butter 6 spring onions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated 1 tbsp Old Bay seasoning (available online, or see recipe, below right) 1 tsp smoked paprika, plus a pinch 1 tbsp tomato purée 50g plain flour 750-800ml whole milk 350g macaroni or penne 150g mature cheddar, grated 50g parmesan, grated 2 tsp Dijon mustard 200g crabmeat (use a mixture of white and brown) 40g fresh breadcrumbs

1 Melt the butter in a large pan over a low heat and sizzle the whites of the spring onions, the Old Bay seasoning and the paprika until the butter is foamy and aromatic.

Stir in the tomato purée and flour until the ingredients form a paste.

Cook for another minute or two to toast the flour a little, then turn the heat up to low-medium and add the milk, a little at a time, whisking well until you have a smooth, thick sauce (you may not need all the milk).

2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta following pack instructions, then drain and set aside.

3 Stir the cheddar, half of the parmesan, the mustard and crabmeat into the sauce. Check the seasoning – the Old Bay spice mix is salty and spicy, so you may not need to add much salt or pepper. Tip in the cooked pasta and mix well. Pour into a baking dish (ours was 25 x 30cm and 7cm deep). Combine the breadcrumbs, remaining parmesan, the green parts of the spring onions

and a pinch of paprika in a bowl, then scatter over the dish. At this stage, the mac ‘n’ cheese can be cooled completely and chilled overnight, or frozen, well covered, for two months. Defrost in the fridge overnight before baking.

4 To cook, heat the oven to 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6. Bake the mac ’n’ cheese for 25 mins (add another 10 mins if cooking from chilled) until the topping is golden and crunchy and the sauce is bubbling at the edges.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING (6) 561 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 15g • carbs 53g • sugars 7g • fibre 4g • protein 28g • salt 1.9g

Seafood spice blend While this blend doesn’t contain 18 ingredients, it does pack a huge flavour punch. If you’re using whole spices, grind them to a powder along with the bay leaves, before combining. This will keep in a sealed container at room temperature for up to a month.

MAKES about 50g PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V

Combine 11/2 tbsp sweet smoked paprika, 1 tbsp celery salt, 1 tsp English mustard powder, 1/2 tsp ground white pepper, 1/4 tsp ground ginger, 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon, 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg, 1 /4 tsp allspice, 4 dried bay leaves, ground, and a pinch of ground cloves in a small bowl.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER TSP 6 kcals • fat 0.3g • saturates 0.1g • carbs 0.2g • sugars 0.1g • fibre 0.5g • protein 0.3g • salt 0.9g

38 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

cover story

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 39

One-pan carrot & cumin soup Sometimes the simplicity of a comforting bowl of soup is all you need.

For a velvety texture, and to carry the flavours of warming cumin and star anise here, we’ve used double cream. To make it more of a meal, we’ve paired it with cheesy onion-seed-speckled muffins for dunking.

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V ❄

25g butter 2 tbsp cumin seeds, plus extra to serve 1 onion, finely chopped 1 leek, green part trimmed away, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 star anise 600g carrots, chopped 1 litre vegetable stock 100ml double cream

1 Heat the butter in a deep saucepan over a medium heat until just starting to sizzle, then fry the cumin seeds until toasted and crackling.

2 Add the onion, leek, garlic, star anise, carrots and a pinch of salt.

Stir to coat. Cover, reduce the heat to low and cook gently for 15-20 mins, stirring occasionally until the vegetables have softened in their own steam.

3 Pour over the stock and bring the mixture to a simmer, then continue to cook for 10 mins until the carrots are tender. Spoon 2 tbsp of the cream into a small dish and set aside, then pour the rest into the pan and bring back to the boil.

Remove the star anise and use a hand blender to blitz the mixture until smooth and silky. Or, tip into a standard blender in batches and blitz before returning to the pan.

For a really smooth soup, push through a sieve into a saucepan.

At this stage, the soup can be cooled completely and chilled for up to three days or frozen for six months.

Defrost fully before reheating.

Reheat until piping hot over a low heat, then pour into bowls, drizzle with the reserved cream and scatter the extra cumin seeds on top. Serve with the muffins (below), if you like.

tip CHANGE UP THE VEG You can swap the carrots in this recipe for the same amount of other veg, following the same method.

Squash or pumpkin, celeriac or sweet potatoes all work well, or you can use a mixture to use up odds and ends in your kitchen.

GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 185 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 8g • carbs 10g • sugars 8g • fibre 5g • protein 3g • salt 0.6g

Cheese, cumin & onion seed cornbread muffins MAKES 12 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

100ml sunflower oil, plus extra for the tin 200g self-raising flour 100g polenta or cornmeal ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp each mustard powder and cayenne pepper 1 tbsp each cumin seeds and onion seeds 200ml milk 2 eggs, beaten 50g extra-mature cheddar, grated 25g parmesan, finely grated

40 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and oil a 12-hole muffin tin.

Tip the flour, polenta, bicarb, mustard powder, cayenne and 2 tsp each of the cumin and onion seeds into a bowl with a large pinch of salt.

Whisk the oil, milk and eggs together in a jug and pour over the dry ingredients. Beat everything together until smooth. Stir through all but a handful of both cheeses, then divide the mixture between the holes in the tin. Combine the rest of the cheese, cumin and onion seeds and scatter this over the tops.

2 Bake the muffins for 20-22 mins until puffed up and golden.

Leave to cool for 10 mins in the tin, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Best eaten on the day, but will keep in an airtight container for two days.

PER SERVING 219 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 3g • carbs 19g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.5g

cover story

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 41

Chai caramel chocolate brownies It’s always exciting when anything baked with chai spices appears in coffee shops, as it means autumn is around the corner. These moreish chocolate brownies are swirled with caramel that’s flavoured with chai spices – a delightful treat to welcome the new season.

Shoot directors BEN CURTIS, SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist LYDIA MCPHERSON

SERVES 16 PREP 25 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

200g salted butter, plus extra for the tin 200g dark chocolate, roughly chopped 3 eggs 200g caster sugar 100g plain flour 40g cocoa powder ½ tbsp sea salt flakes For the chai caramel 1 tsp cardamom pods, seeds crushed ¼ tsp allspice 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp ground ginger 200g canned caramel

of flour. Pour into the prepared tin, drizzle over the chai caramel and gently swirl into the batter using a teaspoon.

4 Bake for 25-30 mins until the brownies are set at the edges with a slight wobble in the middle. If the brownies wobble a lot, they’re not done – bake for another 5 mins until the top has a shiny, papery crust and the sides are just beginning to come away from the tin. Leave to cool completely in the tin, then remove and slice into 16 squares to serve. Will keep in an airtight container for up to three days.

PER SERVING 298 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 10g • carbs 30g • sugars 24g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.8g

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Butter a 20cm square cake tin and line with two strips of baking parchment. Melt the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water (ensuring the bowl doesn’t touch the water) or in 20-second bursts in the microwave. Leave to cool slightly.

2 For the chai caramel, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl until the caramel has loosened.

3 Put the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat for around 5 mins until pale and thick.

Alternatively, do this using an electric whisk. Fold in the slightly cooled melted chocolate mixture using a spatula and, when fully combined, add the flour and cocoa powder. Mix until everything is combined and there are no streaks

42 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

tips • CHAI SPICE MIX Make a double batch of the chai spice mix (simply omit the caramel) to muddle into milk and use in a chai latte.

• CHAI CARAMEL If you double the quantities for the chai caramel, you can keep the leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for a week. Drizzle over ice cream, fruit pies or crumbles, or use as a sauce to pour over sticky toffee pudding.

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SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 43

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easy family

n Salmon flash-fried rice page 51

1 ingredient – 3 ways n Feta, herb & spring onion borek page 74

45

simple recipes for busy weekdays

midweek

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rosh hashanah n Jewish honey cake page 55 SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 47

family

rush-hour meals Get set for the new school year with these quick and easy veg-packed recipes – you'll have dinner on the table in no time recipes SHIVI RAMOUTAR photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Cookery writer Shivi Ramoutar has written two cookbooks, Caribbean Modern and The Ice Kitchen.

A former MasterChef semi-finalist, Shivi is also a regular guest on Saturday Kitchen. Catch Saturday Kitchen Live at 10am on Saturdays on BBC One or BBC iPlayer. @shiviramoutar

48 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

easy family

Chorizo veg fritters SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins EASY ❄

340g can sweetcorn, drained 1 small courgette, coarsely grated 4 spring onions, finely chopped ½ ring cured chorizo (110g), cut into small chunks 4 tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves 1 tsp paprika 2 eggs, beaten 3-6 tbsp milk vegetable oil, for frying For the quick salsa 4 medium tomatoes, finely chopped 1 spring onion, finely chopped ½ garlic clove, grated ½ lime, juiced 1 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped 1 tbsp oil

1 Put all the ingredients for the fritters, except the oil, in a large bowl. Season and mix well.

2 For the quick tomato salsa, mix together all of the ingredients in a medium bowl with a pinch of salt.

3 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Scoop 1-2 tablespoons of batter at a time into the pan to form a fritter, and cook for about 5 mins, turning halfway, until golden and cooked through. Set aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper. You’ll need to do this in batches and add extra oil if the pan gets dry. You should end up with 10-12 fritters. Serve immediately, topped with the salsa.

Freeze on a tray, then transfer to a freezer bag for up to two months.

Defrost at room temperature, then reheat in a low oven.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 400 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 5g • carbs 29g • sugars 9g • fibre 5g • protein 15g • salt 1g

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 49

Sausage & mushroom ragu SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY ❄

2 tbsp olive oil 1 carrot, grated 3 spring onions, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, grated large handful of mushrooms, finely chopped or grated 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp fennel seeds

50 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

6 pork sausages, squeezed out of their skins 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato ketchup mash, pasta or couscous, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and tip in the carrot, spring onions, garlic, mushrooms, oregano and fennel, along with a pinch of salt. Cook for about 5 mins.

2 Add the sausagemeat and cook until browned all over, then add the

chopped tomatoes and ketchup, along with a pinch of salt and 100ml water. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until the sauce is thick, about 20 mins, stirring now and again. Season to taste, then serve with buttery mashed potato, pasta or couscous.

GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 303 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 7g • carbs 13g • sugars 7g • fibre 3g • protein 11g • salt 1.2g

easy family

Salmon flash-fried rice SERVES 4 PREP 2 mins COOK 8 mins EASY

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil 2 spring onions, chopped 2 large handfuls (or 200g) of mixed frozen or canned veg (peas, diced peppers, sweetcorn, diced carrot and chopped spinach) 400g basmati rice, cooked 1 tsp soy sauce, plus extra to serve (optional) 1 tsp maple syrup 2 eggs, beaten 4 pre-cooked salmon fillets, flaked chilli oil, to serve (optional)

1 Heat the oil over a high heat, then fry the spring onion for a minute or so, stirring all the time. Tip in the mixed veg and stir for another 2-3 mins until it’s all defrosted.

2 Add the rice, soy sauce and maple syrup, still stirring, then add the beaten eggs, stirring for another 2-3 mins until it resembles egg fried rice. Gently stir through the flaked salmon, being careful not to break it up too much. Season and drizzle in more soy, if you like. Grown-ups can add chilli oil for an added kick.

GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 PER SERVING 494 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 5g • carbs 30g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 32g • salt 0.4g

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 51

Lemon & greens pesto pasta SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V ❄ (pesto only)

350g pasta (we used linguine) ½ small head of broccoli, cut into florets large handful of basil 1 large handful of spinach, wilted in boiling water, cooled and excess water squeezed out 4 tbsp pine nuts 1 garlic clove, grated ½ lemon, zested and juiced 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil large handful of frozen peas, set aside in boiled water until heated through 3 tbsp grated parmesan or vegetarian hard cheese 3 tbsp soft cheese

1 Cook the pasta following pack instructions. Meanwhile, cook the broccoli for 4 mins in boiling salted water. Drain, then put in a food processor along with the basil, spinach and pine nuts. Pulse until combined.

2 Stir in the garlic, lemon zest and juice, olive oil, peas, parmesan and soft cheese, and season to taste.

3 Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Return the pasta to the pan and add the pesto along with a splash of water to loosen. Toss together, check the seasoning and serve.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 647 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 8g • carbs 60g • sugars 4g • fibre 8g • protein 20g • salt 0.3g

52 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

easy family

next month Halloween party

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist AMY KINNEAR

Find ghoulish goodies in our October issue, on sale 23 September

Pineapple chicken & veg wraps SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

1 tbsp vegetable or olive oil 1 large onion, halved and sliced 2 red or yellow peppers, sliced 1 large garlic clove, grated 1 tbsp cumin 1 tbsp dried oregano 1 tbsp smoked or sweet paprika 400-500g chicken mini fillets, or skinless chicken breast, cut into thin strips 400g can chopped tomatoes

1 small can pineapple rings or chunks, about 200g, cut into small pieces 8 soft tortilla wraps mayonnaise, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the onion and peppers for 10 mins, stirring regularly until softened. Add the garlic, cumin, oregano and paprika, and cook for 1 min.

2 Add the chicken strips, tomatoes and pineapple, turn up the heat and bring to the boil, then reduce the

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heat to low and simmer for about 15 mins, with the lid on for the first 5 mins, until the chicken is cooked through. Season to taste.

3 Spread the tortilla wraps with a little mayonnaise, pile in the chicken and veg, fold up and enjoy.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 530 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 59g • sugars 18g • fibre 9g • protein 40g • salt 1.4g

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family

how to celebrate

rosh hashanah

Discover more about Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, with tips and advice from food writer Victoria Prever, who shares what you should serve for a celebratory feast Rosh Hashanah (which translates from Hebrew as ‘head of the year’) is a festival that celebrates the anniversary of the creation of the world. It happens in the autumn any time between 5 September and 5 October, as the date moves according to the Jewish calendar’s lunar year.

The festivities begin at nightfall the day before, when families enjoy a dinner together.

They’ll visit the synagogue the next day to pray and hear the sound of the shofar (a musical instrument traditionally made from a ram’s horn) being blown.

They then tuck into lunch with family and friends. In Israel, that’s it, but the diaspora – Jewish people living around the word – do it all again for a second day, with another dinner and lunch. This year, Rosh Hashanah will begin on the evening of Monday, 6 September and end in the evening of Wednesday, 8 September.

Victoria Prever is the food editor at The Jewish Chronicle, having left a legal career to train as a chef at Leiths School of Food & Wine. She’s also a food writer, cookery teacher and food consultant, and has appeared on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch, BBC One’s Sunday Morning Live and BBC News. @victoriaprever

54 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

WHAT TO EAT FOR ROSH HASHANAH Honey This is said to help bring a sweet year.

Many families dip apples and/or challah (a traditional Jewish festive bread) in it, but it’s also given as gifts and used in savoury dishes, like tzimmes – a carrot-based dish sweetened with honey and served as a side.

Apples Also symbolic for a sweet new year, many start their celebrations by dipping apple slices in honey.

Challah bread This traditional sweet bread, eaten by many families each Friday night to celebrate the Sabbath, is usually a long, plaited loaf. For Rosh Hashanah, it’s shaped into a round to represent the neverending circle of life.

Good-luck foods Simanim is the name given to foods that are thought to bring luck.

These include veg that grow profusely (which symbolises prosperity), such as pumpkins, black-eyed beans, leeks, beet leaves and spinach. Dates – said to

For a sweet year ahead, apples (or challah, below) are dipped into honey

While classically plaited, challah is shaped into a round for Rosh Hashanah

Symbolising fertility, pomegranates are eaten as a ‘new fruit’

ward off your enemies – are also a favourite, along with carrots.

‘New’ fruit Another tradition is to eat a fruit that you’ve not tasted yet that season, to mark a new experience.

Pomegranates are a traditional ‘new fruit’.

They symbolise fertility and are said to contain 613 seeds – the number of commandments in the Hebrew Bible or Torah..

Honey cake No new year celebration would be complete without this essential treat. See my recipe, opposite.

Feast, followed by fast After all that feasting comes a day of fasting.

On Yom Kippur (a week after Rosh Hashanah), no food is consumed for 25 hours as Jewish people repent their sins of the year before so they may go into the next year with a clean slate. Families will vary in how they choose to break their fast, but many do so with a nice slice of honey cake or challah and a soothing cup of tea.

easy family

Jewish honey cake This simple honey cake, also known as ‘lekach’, is a must-have treat when celebrating Rosh Hashanah. It’s best made a few days ahead, as the spices and texture improve as it matures.

SERVES 9 PREP 30 mins plus cooling COOK 35-40 mins EASY V

100ml sunflower oil 175g golden syrup 50g honey 50g dark brown soft sugar 150ml strong black tea, cooled 2 eggs, beaten 225g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp mixed spice handful of flaked almonds, to decorate (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and line the base and sides of a 20cm square baking tin with baking parchment. Heat the oil, golden syrup, honey and sugar together in a small pan over a medium-low heat to dissolve the sugar. Stir to combine, then leave to cool. Stir in the tea and beaten eggs.

2 Lightly whisk the flour, baking powder, spices and a pinch of salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in the dry ingredients and mix in the wet, using a whisk or wooden spoon to combine until lump-free.

3 Pour the batter into the prepared tin and scatter with the almonds, if using. Bake for 35-40 mins, or until the cake springs back when gently pressed and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Check after 35 mins – if it’s not set in the middle, bake for the remaining 5 mins. Don’t open the oven door for the first 30 mins of baking.

4 Leave to cool completely in the tin on a wire rack. Wrap well and keep at room temperature for three to four days before eating, so the flavour can improve. Cut into nine squares to serve.

PER SERVING 310 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 44g • sugars 24g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 55

midweek meals

cook in 30 minutes When you’re busy during the week, try making these recipes that are speedy to put together but still packed with flavour and nutritional value

recipes LIBERTY MENDEZ photographs MIKE ENGLISH

£2.29 per serving Lemon orzo chicken, p58

We strive to make all our midweek meals balanced or healthy. Learn more about our guidelines on page 145

56 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

easy midweek Smoky tomato gazpacho, p58

£1.73 per serving

your shopping list ◆ Need clever ways to use up surplus herbs, tomato purée and jarred peppers? Turn to page 80 FRUIT & VEGETABLES 2 limes 1 lemon 3 leeks 1 small fennel bulb 250g long-stemmed broccoli 6 carrots 200g baby new potatoes 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger 1 red onion 2 large raw beetroot

800g tomatoes 200g cherry tomatoes 200g baby spinach 150g asparagus 250g frozen peas

2 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 /2 tsp chilli flakes

HERBS & SPICES /2 small bunch each of coriander, mint and chives ◆ 1 1 /2 small bunches of basil ◆ 1 small bunch of parsley ◆

STORECUPBOARD 6 garlic cloves 300g orecchiette or any short pasta 1 tbsp tomato purée ◆ 1 /2 tbsp honey 400g can chopped tomatoes

1

400g can cherry tomatoes 2 slices wholemeal bread jar roasted red peppers ◆ 1 tsp caster sugar 1 tbsp chipotle paste 2 tbsp capers 1 tsp Dijon mustard 300g orzo 8 tbsp olive oil 35ml white wine vinegar

500ml low-salt chicken or veg stock flatbread (optional) MEAT/FISH 6 sausages 4 skinless white fish fillets 250g cooked chicken DAIRY 2 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche 4 eggs

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 57

Lemon orzo chicken SERVES 4 PREP 4 mins COOK 18 mins EASY

1 tbsp olive oil 2 leeks, halved and finely sliced 300g orzo 150g asparagus, roughly chopped into 4cm lengths 500ml low-salt chicken or vegetable stock

Smoky tomato gazpacho SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

2 slices wholemeal bread ½ tbsp olive oil 1 tsp dried oregano 2 garlic cloves ½ small bunch of basil 200g roasted red peppers from a jar 800g tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 tsp caster sugar 1 tsp white wine or apple cider vinegar (check the label if vegan) 1 tbsp chipotle paste

2 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche 1 lemon, zested and juiced 250g cooked chicken, shredded 250g frozen peas ½ small bunch of chives

1 Heat the oil in a pan and fry the leeks for 5 mins over a medium-high heat, adding a splash of boiling water from the kettle halfway through to steam them slightly.

Add the orzo, asparagus and stock, and cook for 10 mins over a high heat, stirring continuously.

1 Blitz the bread in a small food processor until you have large breadcrumbs. Drizzle the olive oil into a frying pan over a high heat, add the breadcrumbs along with the oregano and fry for 4-5 mins until golden brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool.

2 Meanwhile put 300ml water, the garlic, most of the basil, red peppers, tomatoes, sugar, vinegar and chipotle paste in a jug blender. Blitz on a low speed and slowly increase the speed to maximum until you have a smooth gazpacho. Season and chill until ready to serve.

2 Stir through the crème fraîche, lemon zest, juice, chicken, peas and most of the chives. Season and keep on the heat for 3-4 mins to warm through the chicken, adding a splash of water to loosen if needed.

Divide between bowls and top with the remaining chives.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 534 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 3g • carbs 68g • sugars 9g • fibre 10g • protein 35g • salt 0.4g

3 Ladle into bowls, sprinkle over the breadcrumbs and scatter over the reserved basil leaves, to serve.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • low cal • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 104 kcals • fat 2g • saturates 0.3g • carbs 16g • sugars 8g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g

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easy midweek

Salsa verde baked eggs SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

5 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp cumin seeds 400g can cherry tomatoes 200g fresh cherry tomatoes 2 garlic cloves 1 small bunch of parsley 1 small bunch of basil ½ small bunch of mint, leaves picked 2 tbsp capers 1 tsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 200g baby spinach, washed 4 eggs ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional) flatbreads, to serve (optional)

£1.54 per serving

1 Drizzle 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a frying pan or skillet, and fry the paprika and cumin for 30 seconds over a medium heat. Add the canned tomatoes and fresh tomatoes, bring to the boil, then simmer with a lid on over a medium heat for 5-6 mins until the tomatoes have softened.

2 Meanwhile, put the garlic, most of the parsley, the basil, mint, capers, mustard, white wine vinegar, 4 tbsp oil and 3 tbsp cold water in a mini food processor and blitz to a smooth paste. Season.

3 Stir the spinach into the pan with the tomatoes until wilted (put the lid back on for a few minutes, then stir again to help it wilt). Make four dips in the mixture and gently crack an egg into each one. Cover with a lid and cook over a medium heat for 6-8 mins, or until the eggs are just set. Uncover the pan, then drizzle over the herby sauce. Scatter over the reserved parsley and chilli flakes, if using. Serve with flatbreads.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 268 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 4g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • fibre 3g • protein 12g • salt 0.7g

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Roasted cod with zingy beetroot salad SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 18 mins EASY

200g baby new potatoes, quartered ½ tbsp olive oil 4 skinless cod fillets (or any white fish) thumb-sized piece of ginger, finely sliced 1 lime, sliced For the beetroot salad 1 red onion, finely chopped 4 carrots, peeled and grated

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2 large raw beetroot, peeled and grated 1 lime, zested and juiced ½ tbsp honey ½ small bunch of coriander, leaves picked

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put a pan of water on a high heat. When it boils add the potatoes, then turn the heat down and simmer for 10-12 mins until tender.

2 Meanwhile combine all of the salad ingredients, reserving a little coriander. Season lightly. Once the potatoes are cooked, drain and run

under cold water to cool. Drain again and toss through the salad.

3 Rub the oil over the cod fillets, then put on a non-stick baking tray and lay a few ginger and lime slices on top of each fillet. Put in the oven and cook for 6-9 mins, depending on thickness.

4 Divide the salad between four plates, then top with the cod and remaining coriander.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 262 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 1g • carbs 21g • sugars 12g • fibre 6g • protein 36g • salt 0.4g

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist LOTTIE COVELL | Stylist FAYE WEARS

£1.99 per serving

easy midweek

Sausage & fennel orecchiette SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

1 leek, halved and finely sliced 1 small fennel bulb, halved and finely sliced, fronds reserved 250g long-stemmed broccoli, larger stalks finely sliced 300g orecchiette or any short pasta 1 tbsp olive oil 6 sausages 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp fennel seeds 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 carrots, grated 400g can chopped tomatoes

1 Boil a large pan of salted water, turn the heat down to medium, then add the leek, sliced fennel and broccoli, and simmer for 3 mins until tender. Lift the veg out of the water using a slotted spoon, drain and set aside. Keep the pan of water on the heat, add the orecchiette and cook for around 11 mins, or until tender but still retaining some bite.

2 Meanwhile, put a large frying pan over a high heat, add the olive oil and squeeze the sausagemeat out of the skins, tearing it into small pieces in the pan using a wooden spoon. Fry for 3-4 mins until golden brown and almost cooked, then add the garlic, fennel seeds and tomato purée, and fry for 30 seconds until aromatic. Add the blanched veg and grated carrot, and cook for another 4 mins. Tip in the tomatoes, bring to the boil, then simmer for around 4 mins until reduced slightly.

3 Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of pasta water, and toss the pasta in the pan with the sausage and tomato sauce, adding a splash of pasta water to loosen. Season and serve with the reserved fennel fronds scattered over the top.

£1.89 per serving

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 527 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 6g • carbs 62g • sugars 11g • fibre 8g • protein 21g • salt 1.0g

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treasures

pasta primo A comforting bowl pasta is one of the nation’s favourite midweek suppers. Whether you’re serving family or friends, these classic recipes from the Good Food archives will leave them smiling

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easy midweek

Speedy sausage stroganoff tagliatelle Make this budget-friendly pasta taste luxurious with the addition of soured cream – it makes the sauce extra silky.

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

20g unsalted butter olive oil, for drizzling 6 pork sausages 350g chestnut mushrooms, sliced 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika 300ml soured cream ½ tbsp wholegrain mustard 150ml beef stock 400g dried tagliatelle small bunch of parsley, chopped

1 Heat the butter and a drizzle of olive oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat until the butter is foaming. Squeeze large chunks of the sausagemeat out of the skins and into the pan.

Cook for 5-8 mins, or until golden brown. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 mins more until starting to brown.

Stir in the paprika and cook for another minute before stirring in the soured cream, mustard and stock. Bring the mixture to a simmer and season.

2 Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large pan of salted water following pack instructions, then drain and toss it with the sauce along with half the parsley. Serve in deep bowls with the remaining parsley sprinkled on top.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 826 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 20g • carbs 80g • sugars 7g • fibre 10g • protein 27g • salt 1.2g

Lemony tuna, tomato & caper one-pot pasta Turn to a one-pot pasta when you need a quick and easy dinner.

Here, everything, including the cooking liquid, is tipped into a pot and transformed into a warming yet vibrant meal. You can also make it veggie by swapping the tuna for extra tomatoes or thinly sliced roasted red peppers.

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins EASY

2 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 500g cherry tomatoes, halved 400g dried pasta (we used rigatoni) 1 litre hot vegetable stock 2 x 110g cans tuna in olive oil, drained 3 tbsp mascarpone 30g parmesan, grated 2 heaped tbsp capers, drained ½ lemon, zested small bunch of parsley, finely chopped

1 Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium-low heat and fry the onion with a pinch of salt for 7 mins until softened and turning translucent.

Add 350g cherry tomatoes, the pasta and stock, and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook uncovered for 15 mins, stirring occasionally. After this time, the tomatoes should have broken down and the pasta will be just cooked.

2 Add the remaining tomatoes and bubble uncovered over a mediumhigh heat for 5 mins until the liquid has reduced. Gently fold through large flakes of tuna along with the mascarpone, parmesan, capers, lemon zest, parsley and some seasoning. Cover with a lid and leave to sit for 5 mins before serving in deep bowls.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 672 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 9g • carbs 83g • sugars 12g • fibre 9g • protein 29g • salt 1.5g

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easy midweek

Next level spaghetti bolognese No pasta recipe is as popular and family-friendly as bolognese. This version by skills & shows editor Barney Desmazery is an upgraded take on ragu bolognese, with a few new ingredients added.

SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 4 hrs EASY ❄

olive oil, for frying and drizzling 400g beef mince 400g Italian pork sausages, skins removed, sausagemeat crumbled 200g smoked pancetta 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 2 celery sticks, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 thyme sprig small bunch of basil, small leaves picked and reserved 2 bay leaves 2 tsp dried oregano handful of dried porcini mushrooms 1 tsp golden caster sugar 1 tbsp tomato purée ½ tsp Thai fish sauce 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 100ml whole milk 4 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 200ml white wine 100g parmesan, grated, rind removed and reserved, plus extra to serve spaghetti, to serve

1 Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan and crumble in the mince and sausagemeat. Spend 30 mins cooking the meat – the mince will release a lot of liquid, which needs to evaporate, then it will sizzle in its own fat. If the pan becomes too dry, drizzle in a little more oil. Stir the mince until it’s speckled with crisp brown bits.

2 Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/ gas 2. While the meat browns, heat a drizzle more oil in a flameproof casserole and sizzle the pancetta for 5 mins until it starts to brown and release its fat. Add the veg and herbs, then crumble over the dried porcini. Cook for 5 mins until the veg is soft and starting to brown.

Sprinkle over the sugar, then stir in the tomato purée, fish sauce and vinegar. Simmer until the mixture is slightly thickened, then stir in the meat, milk and tomatoes. Use the wine to swill out the tomato cans and stir this into the pan. Season, then nestle in the parmesan rind.

Bring to a simmer, then cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3 hrs.

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3 When the bolognese is cooked, tip as many portions as you need into a large frying pan over a medium heat.

Leave any remaining bolognese to cool completely, then portion into sealed containers and freeze for three months.

You can then tip frozen portions into a saucepan and heat until piping hot.

Cook the spaghetti in a pan of boiling salted water until al dente, then add to the sauce with a bit of the pasta water and finish cooking for 2 mins. Stir in the parmesan and a drizzle more olive oil. Spoon the pasta and bolognese into bowls, scatter with the reserved basil and serve with more parmesan.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 500 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 13g • carbs 17g • sugars 13g • fibre 5g • protein 29g • salt 1.7g

frozen assets

Bangers & mash This simple but ingenious take on a family favourite brings the two star players together into one dish that can be easily frozen recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph JAMES LEE

Sausage & mash pie

Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist TAMARA VOS | Stylist LUIS PERAL

Bangers and mash are a firm favourite in my house, but I’m always a bit put off making it during the week as it creates a pile of washing-up. This recipe gives you the opportunity to bring everything together into one pie that can be made over the weekend and frozen, ready for when you don’t have time to cook from scratch. In my household, this pie is now more requested than the classic combination.

SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins EASY ❄

1 tbsp sunflower oil 8 pork sausages 25g butter 2 onions, finely sliced pinch of golden caster sugar 2 tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 500ml beef stock peas, to serve (optional) For the mash 1.25kg King Edward or Maris Piper potatoes, cut into large chunks 150ml whole milk 25g butter 25g mature cheddar, coarsely grated (optional)

1 Heat the oil in a frying pan and gently cook the sausages over a medium-high heat for 10-12 mins, turning them until browned on all sides. Transfer to a plate, then put the butter in the pan and heat until sizzling. Tip in the onions, stirring them into the butter, then sprinkle over the sugar and fry for 8-10 mins until the onions are golden. Scatter over the flour and stir to make a paste, then add the tomato purée.

Cook for a minute, then add the vinegar, pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer.

Tip in any juices from the sausages, then cut the sausages into thick slices and add to the pan. Simmer everything together for 5 mins until you have a glossy onion gravy. Tip the mixture into a baking dish.

2 To make the mash, tip the potatoes into a pan of cold salted water and bring to the boil, then turn down and simmer for 10-12 mins or until just cooked (the tip of a knife should slide in easily).

Drain and leave for a minute. Pour the milk into the pan and bring to a simmer, then tip in the drained potatoes and butter, and mash thoroughly. Season to taste.

3 Top the sausages and gravy with the mash, starting from the edge of the dish and working your way

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into the middle. Use a fork to scrape lines in the topping and scatter over the cheese, if using.

Can be assembled, covered and chilled for up to two days or frozen for three months. Defrost completely before cooking. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bake the pie on a tray for 35-40 mins until the top has browned. Leave to cool for 5 mins before scooping straight from the baking dish at the table and serving with peas, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • vit c PER SERVING 706 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 16g • carbs 67g • sugars 11g • fibre 9g • protein 23g • salt 1.8g

MUSHROOM & MASH PIE A vegetarian version of this pie can be made by swapping the sausages for 300g quartered chestnut mushrooms, and the beef stock for vegetable bouillon or stock.

easy anytime

MAKE MORE OF MASH Change up the mash by adding extra flavours. A couple of spoonfuls of mustard, horseradish cream or apple sauce would all work well with the sausage filling, as would finely sliced spring onions, shredded wilted cabbage or greens.

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friday night treat

speedy stir-fry Ready in just 30 minutes, this takeaway-style dish works with rice on the side or noodles tossed through it recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph HAYLEY BENOIT

Soy & chilli chicken with peppers & peanuts

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist ROB MERRETT

What’s great about this is you can pack it full of other crunchy veg you might have in the fridge, like green beans, long-stem broccoli or ready-to-eat beansprouts.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

2 tbsp Shaohsing wine or dry sherry 1 tbsp cornflour 2 tbsp soy sauce 3 chicken breasts, cut into large chunks 3 tbsp sunflower oil 2 red peppers, deseeded and cut into large chunks small bunch of spring onions, whites cut into finger lengths, greens finely sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely sliced thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely sliced 1 red chilli, sliced ½ tsp caster sugar 2 tsp malt vinegar 80g roasted peanuts or cashews rice or noodles, to serve (optional)

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1 Mix together the wine, cornflour and half the soy sauce in a large bowl, then tip in the chicken pieces and toss to coat. You can do this up to a day ahead and keep covered and chilled until needed. Heat half the oil in a wok over a high heat and fry the chicken for 4-5 mins, stirring occasionally, until golden on all sides. Scoop out onto a plate.

2 Heat the rest of the oil in the same wok and fry the peppers and spring onion whites for 1 min. Add the garlic, ginger and chilli, and stir-fry for another minute. Add the sugar, vinegar and the remaining soy.

Let everything sizzle for 30 seconds, then tip the chicken and any juices into the wok along with the nuts.

Stir-fry for another 1-2 mins until the chicken is cooked through. Stir through the spring onion greens and serve with rice or toss through some cooked noodles, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 412 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 3g • carbs 12g • sugars 7g • fibre 4g • protein 36g • salt 1.6g

tip This is a sticky stir-fry rather than saucy. If you do want a sauce, then add 100ml of chicken stock at the end and another 1 tsp of cornflour mixed with a little water.

easy anytime

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1 ingredient – 3 ways

fantastic feta

Chef, cookery teacher and food writer Melek Erdal shares recipes using the versatile Greek cheese that’s also popular in Turkey where she was born photograph KIM LIGHTBODY

I

Istanbul-born Kurdish chef Melek grew up in north-east London. Inspired by the food of her roots, she opened her own café in 2013. Since then, she’s taught and written about food, culture and identity. Recently, she’s worked with food charities Made in Hackney and The Felix Project. @mels_place_east

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’ve recently discovered upon doing some research that feta, like champagne, has a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) for Greece. Across the wider Mediterranean, Middle East and Balkan regions, it is known as ‘white cheese’, its resilience and wide use being testament to its versatility.

I remember my mum mashing up feta with baby biscuits, milk, eggs and a drizzle of tea for nutritious baby food. The cheese was always on the breakfast or lunch table, served with slices of watermelon and crusty white bread. If you had no time or nothing to eat, you’d still have white cheese, black olives and sesame bread with a strong black tea, or ‘çay’ (chai).

In my mother and father’s village, my grandmother made lavash bread on the ‘saj’, a concave iron stove on the fire. We’d put chunks of freshly churned butter in the bread and crumble in a version of white cheese, then roll the bread up and have this with strong sweet tea for breakfast.

With its balance of sour acidity and moreish creaminess, it has an umami that can be utilised in a range of dishes – whizzed into salad dressings or even whipped for desserts, like a heightened soft cheese in a jazzed-up sundae. Due to its soft texture, I often use it in bakes, because it acts much like yogurt as a raising agent. But it’s also great just whisked with eggs to make the fluffiest omelettes.

My fridge is never without feta, a trusted friend.

easy anytime

Baked mücver (courgette & feta bake), p72 SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 71

Baked mücver (courgette & feta bake) Courgette fritters, or mücver, are a classic dish in the eastern Mediterranean, often served with garlic yogurt. Here, I’ve turned the fritters into a large bake – it’s easier to cook, more substantial and can be served as lunch with a side salad and garlic yogurt.

The outcome should be like a cross between a beautiful, fluffy crustless quiche and a frittata.

One of my favourite dishes, it’s a great way to use up leftover cheese and vegetables. The recipe is forgiving, and so you could easily grate in carrots or use spinach and cheddar instead.

You can also use a gluten-free flour, if you like.

SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

Feta & roasted tomato shakshuka Here’s a classic dish with some special extras. I always roast my tomatoes when making shakshuka, which adds a beautiful depth and also means it takes much less time to cook the base. Stale bread is a great addition as it soaks up all the flavours and means you can utilise leftover bread. If you don’t have stale bread, just tear up pieces of bread and bake at 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 for 5 mins before making the shakshuka. I love sourdough or seeded bread in this dish.

SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

6 medium tomatoes, halved 2 tsp olive oil, plus a drizzle 1 red onion, finely chopped 8 padron peppers or 2 green sivri peppers (or use 1 green pepper if these aren’t available), sliced into rounds 2 tsp pul biber (aleppo chilli flakes), plus a pinch to serve

2 courgettes (about 325g) 2 spring onions, finely sliced ½ small bunch of parsley, finely chopped ½ small bunch of mint, finely chopped ½ small bunch of dill, finely chopped, plus extra to serve 4 eggs 75g grated halloumi 100g crumbled feta 2 garlic cloves, grated 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the tin 80g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds, plus extra to serve 1 tbsp nigella seeds, plus extra to serve

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Coarsely grate the courgettes into a clean tea towel, wrap and squeeze out all of the excess liquid.

Tip into a colander then set aside to

handful of wild garlic or spinach 100g stale bread of your choice, torn into bite-sized pieces 3 eggs 100g feta 50g halloumi

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Arrange the tomatoes cut-side down in a roasting tin, drizzle with some olive oil and season. Roast for 20 mins. Set aside to cool.

2 Meanwhile, cook the onions in a medium ovenproof frying pan with the 2 tsp olive oil over a medium heat until they start to caramelise, about 8 mins.

3 Once the onions have softened, add the peppers and season with salt, pepper and the pul biber.

Peel the skins from the roasted tomatoes, then add these to the pan of onions and peppers along with all the resting juices.

4 Crush the tomatoes roughly with a wooden spoon and cook for 5 mins over a medium-high heat. Add the wild garlic or spinach and wilt for a minute, then remove from the heat.

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drain completely. Meanwhile, tip all of the remaining ingredients into a large bowl. Add the drained grated courgettes, season and mix.

2 Line a roughly 25-26cm round ovenproof dish or cake tin with baking parchment and drizzle with the extra olive oil to cover the surface. Heat the dish in the oven for 5 mins.

3 Carefully remove the dish from the oven and pour the courgette mixture over the hot oil (this will ensure the mixture browns on the bottom). Sprinkle with the extra sesame and nigella seeds and bake for 35 mins until golden brown on top. Leave to rest for at least 20 mins before serving scattered with more dill.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • vit c PER SERVING 285 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 7g • carbs 12g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 13g • salt 1.1g

Tuck the bread pieces in amongst the mixture, then create three gaps for the eggs using the spoon. Crack the eggs into the gaps, crumble over the feta and grate over the halloumi.

Drizzle with some extra olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch of pul biber.

5 Turn the oven down to 160C/ 140C fan/gas 3 and bake the shakshuka for 12-15 mins. The eggs should be cooked but runny in the middle, and the feta, halloumi and bread should be crisp and golden.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 186 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 5g • carbs 13g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 11g • salt 1g

tip You can make the roasted tomato base ahead up to the middle of step 4, just before adding the eggs.

Leave to cool completely, then tip into a freezerproof container and freeze for up to three months.

Defrost completely in the fridge before continuing with the recipe.

easy anytime

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Feta, herb & spring onion borek Try this classic borek with a tasty filling that doesn’t require cooking in advance. I’m also sharing with you an age-old secret sauce that’s brushed between the filo sheets to ensure the pastry puffs up.

SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

270g filo pastry 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing 2 egg yolks (freeze the whites for another recipe) a pinch each of nigella and sesame seeds, to serve For the borek filling 250g feta 1 green bird’s-eye chilli, finely chopped 3 medium spring onions, finely chopped

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handful each of coriander, mint and dill, finely chopped 6 tbsp olive oil For the borek sauce 1 egg, beaten 50ml olive oil 70ml milk

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Prepare the filling first. Mash the feta in a bowl with the back of a fork. Add the chilli, spring onions, herbs and olive oil, then mix everything well using the fork.

2 For the sauce, whisk the beaten egg with the olive oil and milk in a small bowl until fully combined.

3 Lay the filo sheets on a clean work surface and cover with a clean, damp cloth to ensure they don’t dry out as you work. Brush the base of a shallow 20cm round ovenproof dish with some olive oil.

4 Layer six sheets of filo in the bottom of the dish, overlapping

them by about 45 degrees and fanning them out, also ensuring that half of each sheet covers the base while the other half overhangs the dish. Between each addition, liberally brush the sheets with the sauce. The entire base should be covered with the filo, and the filo generously basted in the sauce.

5 Tip in all the filling, then fold the overhanging filo over the filling to enclose it, brushing the sheets with more sauce as you do. Cover the top with a final sheet of filo, but don’t brush this with the sauce.

6 Whisk the egg yolks with the 1 tbsp olive oil and brush this on top of the borek. Sprinkle with the sesame and nigella seeds and bake for 30 mins until golden brown.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 446 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 10g • carbs 27g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 13g • salt 1.5g

Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist MAX ROBINSON

easy anytime

easy anytime

weeknight pudding

fridge cake

Make this no-cook treat with the help of your refrigerator – it’s ideal for those end-of-summer evenings when it’s still too warm to put the oven on recipe CASSIE BEST photograph TOM REGESTER

Cookies & cream fridge cake

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist HANNAH WILKINSON

SERVES 12-14 PREP 20 mins plus at least 24 hrs chilling NO COOK EASY V

flavourless oil (such as vegetable), for the tin 600ml double cream 200ml mascarpone or soft cheese 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 tbsp icing sugar 4 x 154g packets chocolate cream-filled sandwich cookies, plus extra to serve 200g dark chocolate, broken into small pieces

mixture). Spoon over a third of the cream mixture and smooth with a spatula, spreading it to the edge.

Repeat twice with the rest of the cookies and the cream mixture.

Cover and chill for at least 24 hrs, or up to two days.

3 Melt the chocolate in 20-second bursts in the microwave, or in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the base

of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Leave to cool for 10 mins.

Unwrap the cake, remove it from the tin and peel off the parchment.

Drizzle over the melted chocolate, letting it drip down the sides, and crumble over the extra cookies.

Serve, or chill for up to 1 hr.

PER SERVING (14) 581 kcals • fat 44g • saturates 24g • carbs 41g • sugars 27g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.4g

1 Oil a 20cm loose-bottomed or springform cake tin and line with baking parchment, ensuring the inside of the tin is fully covered.

Whisk the cream, mascarpone, vanilla and icing sugar together in a large bowl until smooth and holding soft peaks.

2 Line the base of the tin with a single layer of the cookies, (don’t worry if there are small gaps, as these will be filled with the cream

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two twists

apple pie Two members of our cookery team bring you different versions of this autumnal favourite recipes LIBERTY MENDEZ and CASSIE BEST photograph HAYLEY BENOIT

liberty

For me, there’s nothing more nostalgic than a hand-held apple pie. It was always a real treat growing up – the ease of being able to grab a spiced apple pie on the go, still warm and crisp in its little paper sleeve, was a dream. My recipe for individual pies replicates that childhood favourite and they’re really quick to make. A sprinkle of demerara sugar on top of the shortcrust pastry makes them incredibly crisp and moreish. I sometimes even wrap them in foil to keep them warm on car journeys for a filling treat on-the-go that doesn’t involve queueing at a service station.

Liberty Mendez, recipe developer

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A classic apple pie filling spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg is encased in golden shortcrust pastry – made extra crisp and delicious with a sprinkling of demerara sugar.

easy anytime

cassie

I love any kind of pie, but with two small children running around, I’m always looking for shortcuts that will make recipes easier, and a galette is the simplest way to make a pie. This freeform, flat pie requires no lining of tins and you can be pretty slapdash with the pastry, too. In fact, I’ve made a version of this pie many times with my four-year-old and can confirm that the pastry does not suffer from a little pummelling. I’ve used Bramley apples for that authentic apple-pie tartness, but you could use an eating apple for a sweeter taste.

Cassie Best, food director

If you’re nervous about making your own pastry, a galette is a simple way to get the feel for it. Because it’s freeform, you don’t need to be as precise, and the dough is more forgiving.

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easy anytime

You can make a batch of these and freeze them, uncooked, on a baking tray, then pop into a bag and freeze for up to two months. You can bake them from frozen, too – just add 10 minutes to the cooking time.

MAKES 5 PREP 20 mins plus at least 10 mins chilling COOK 25 mins EASY V ❄ uncooked

2 cooking apples (we used Bramley), peeled, cored and cut into 3cm chunks 50g light brown soft sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground nutmeg 25g salted butter, cubed 320g sheet of ready-rolled shortcrust pastry 1 tbsp cornflour 1 egg, beaten 1 tbsp demerara sugar

Apple & hazelnut galette This is a really versatile pie, add a handful of blackberries, swap the hazelnuts for almonds or pecans, or use pears or peaches instead of the apple, if you like. The spelt in the pastry gives it a lovely nutty flavour and texture.

SERVES 10 PREP 30 mins plus at least 30 mins chilling COOK 55 mins EASY V ❄

50g light brown soft sugar, plus extra for sprinkling ½ lemon, zested and juiced 1 tbsp cornflour 1 tbsp maple syrup 3 Bramley apples, peeled, cored, halved and thinly sliced 20g hazelnuts, roughly chopped double cream, to serve For the pastry 80g hazelnuts 2 tbsp icing sugar 125g spelt flour 175g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 150g cold butter, cubed 1 egg, beaten

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1 Tip the apples, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and butter into a saucepan set over a medium heat and simmer, stirring occasionally for 6-8 mins until the apples are soft. Tip the mixture into a bowl and leave to cool.

2 Meanwhile, unroll the pastry with a short side facing you. Cut in half lengthways so you have two long rectangles, then cut each into five smaller rectangles, so you have 10 in total (they should be 12 x 7cm).

3 Once the spiced apple mixture has cooled, toss with the cornflour.

Spoon into the middle of half the pastry rectangles, leaving the remaining five empty. Brush some of the beaten egg over the exposed pastry around the apples, then carefully place the plain pastry rectangles on top of the filling. Press down around the sides so the filling is encased. Crimp the edges using a fork to seal, then use the tip of a

knife to lightly cut three lines across the top of the pies so that steam can escape during cooking.

4 Arrange the pies on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and brush all over with more of the beaten egg. Chill for at least 30 mins in the fridge or 10 mins in the freezer.

At this stage, the pies can be chilled for up to 24 hrs or individually covered and kept frozen for two months.

5 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Brush with more of the beaten egg, sprinkle with the demerara sugar and bake for 15-20 mins, or until the pastry is golden (add another 10 mins if baking from frozen). Once baked and cooled, will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days.

1 First, make the pastry. Blitz the hazelnuts and sugar in a food processor until finely chopped.

Add the spelt and plain flours, butter and a good pinch of salt, and blitz again until all of the butter has been incorporated and the mixture is sandy. With the motor running, drizzle in 1-2 tbsp cold water until the dough starts to form in clumps.

Squeeze a little between your fingers – if it feels like it will come together, tip the mixture onto your work surface and knead briefly into a ball. Shape into a disc, wrap and chill for 30 mins or overnight.

2 If the pastry has been chilled for longer than 30 mins, let it come to room temperature for 20 mins before rolling. Mix the brown sugar, lemon zest, cornflour and maple syrup together in a large bowl. Add the apples and toss well. Set aside while you roll out the pastry.

3 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Dust a sheet of baking parchment large enough to line a large baking tray with flour, then roll the pastry out to a roughly 30cm circle on top of the parchment. The pastry will crack and crumble a little as you roll it, but just keep pushing the edges back together –

don’t worry if it looks rustic. Slide the pastry on its parchment onto the baking tray. Pile the apple slices into the centre of the pastry circle using your hands, letting any excess syrup drip back into the bowl as you do (save the syrup for later). Be sure to leave a clear 2cm border around the edge. Use the baking parchment to help you lift the edges of the pastry over the apples, leaving the most of the appled exposed. Pinch together any cracks around the edge to make a rustic pastry border.

4 Brush the pastry edge with some beaten egg, sprinkle with a little extra brown sugar and scatter over the hazelnuts. Bake for 50-55 mins until golden brown. Meanwhile, pour any leftover syrup from the apples into a small saucepan and bubble for a few minutes until syrupy. When the galette is cooked and still hot, brush the syrup over the top. Leave to cool for at least 30 mins, then serve warm with cold cream. Will keep in the fridge for up to two days, or freeze in well-wrapped slices for up to two months.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 454 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 10g • carbs 49g • sugars 22g • fibre 4g • protein 6g • salt 0.5g

PER SERVING 365 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 9g • carbs 39g • sugars 15g • fibre 3g • protein 6g • salt 0.3g

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist ROB MERRETT

Apple hand pies

FLUFFY, LIGHT & FULL OF

delight

Feeling fruity? Go decadent and delicate with a Chocolate, Blackberry & Caramel Pavlova they’ll be head over heels for.

Find recipes that are a joy to bake and share at Oetker.co.uk

reduce waste

use your leftovers We hate to see food go to waste, which is why we’ve come up with these ideas for your September surplus FROM THIS ISSUE Quick chana chicken curry Strip leftover meat from the one-pot spiced roast chicken (p36) and stir it through leftover sauce, then tip in a 400g can chickpeas, drained, and heat over a low heat until piping hot.

Scatter with coriander, if you have any, then serve with rice or in a flatbread, if you like.

Smoky tomato sauce Simmer leftover smoky tomato gazpacho (p58) over a low heat until reduced and thickened. It can then be tossed with cooked pasta or spread over a pizza base.

Cod & beetroot hash browns Flake leftover cod from the roasted cod with zingy beetroot salad (p60) and mix it with any leftover slaw, a handful of breadcrumbs and 1 egg yolk.

Shape into fishcakes and fry over a medium heat in a little oil for 3-4 mins on each side until crisp, golden and piping hot.

Sausage & mushroom cottage pie Tip leftover sausage & mushroom ragu (p50) into a baking dish, then spoon over some mash and gently spread it to the edges using a spatula so the ragu is covered. (You can use any mash you like or have leftover in your fridge – regular or sweet potato, or even celeriac mash, would work well.) Scatter with a handful of grated cheddar.

Bake at 220C/200C fan/gas 7 for 25-30 mins until the topping is golden and the filling is hot.

80 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

3 WAYS WITH

Harissa ketchup If you’ve made the harissa ketchup on page 34, here are more ideas on how to use it.

• Spiced burger sauce Mix one part harissa ketchup with two parts mayonnaise, then spoon over burgers or serve with seafood such as prawns. Try it with our meatloaf burgers, pictured below (find the recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

• Homemade harissa hummus Blitz a 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed, with harissa ketchup and olive oil for a quick dip that’s great with vegetable crudités or tortilla chips.

• Harissa BBQ glaze Brush the harissa ketchup over meat, fish or vegetables a few minutes before the end of cooking on a barbecue, or grill, to give them a sticky glaze.

easy anytime

WHAT TO DO WITH

◆ 150g

jarred peppers Romesco Blend the peppers with 1 garlic clove, a handful of wine vinegar, a large pinch of smoked paprika and 50ml olive oil to a thick paste. Use as a dip for veg crudités or toss with pasta.

MIDWEEK MAGIC

Transform basic ingredients that you may have in excess after using our shopping list (page 57) MAKE MORE OF

◆ soft herbs

If you’ve got several partial bunches of soft herbs, use them in these simple recipes before they start to go past their prime

Chimichurri Roughly chop soft herbs (coriander, parsley and mint work well) and mix with finely chopped green chillies, chopped onion, a splash of white wine or cider vinegar and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve as part of our bavette with chimichurri sauce dish, pictured above (you can find the recipe on bbcgoodfood.com).

Salsa verde Roughly tear soft herbs (parsley, mint, basil and chives work well) into a mini food processor, then add Dijon mustard,

capers, 1-2 anchovies, a squeeze of lemon and a drizzle of olive oil. Blitz briefly until you have a chunky dressing.

Pesto Pound 1 garlic clove and a few nuts (pine nuts, cashews, walnuts or almonds all work) using a large mortar and pestle, then pound in handfuls of soft herbs (basil is the classic choice, but any soft herb will do) to make a rough paste. Add some grated parmesan, then loosen everything with olive oil.

Herb salad As well as being used to flavour dishes, soft herb leaves can be used to make a fragrant side salad. Toss together some parsley, mint and snipped chives to serve alongside grilled fish, or a mixture of basil, coriander and mint to go with chicken or seafood mains.

HOW TO USE

◆ tomato purée Here are some clever way to use up that tube of tomato purée that’s been lurking at the back of your fridge.  Pizza-style toast Spread a slice of bread with tomato purée, top with cheese, halved cherry tomatoes and a sprinkling of oregano, then flash under a hot grill.  Cheat’s rouille Mix a squeeze of tomato purée with mayonnaise, chilli sauce,

crushed garlic and a drop of lemon juice for a quick dip.  Quick harissa Blend chopped red chillies with tomato purée and a pinch of ground cumin.  Gravy booster Stir a little tomato purée into the roasting tin when making gravy before adding the flour.

Easy shakshuka Slice the peppers and mix with 400g can chopped tomatoes and 400g can chickpeas, drained. Tip into a frying pan, bring to a simmer and crack two 2 eggs over the top. Simmer for a few minutes until the eggs are set to your liking, then scatter with coriander.

Quick pepper bruschetta Slice the peppers, pile onto griddled toast and scatter with crumbled feta or shaved parmesan.

& SUSTAINABILITY At BBC Good Food, we seek realistic solutions to avoid food waste and packaging, and adhere to the three Rs: 1) Reducing food waste 2) Recycling packaging 3) Reusing food storage packaging and containers. To find out more, go to bbcgoodfood. com/reduce-reuse-recycle.

Plus, listen to the Food Programme’s inspiring Food Waste Pioneers broadcast about people who tackle food waste issues on BBC Radio 4.

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 81

Book your tickets

25 - 28 November 2021 Birmingham NEC

Entertainment | Tasting | Shopping | Inspiration

All the ingredients for a fun day out It’s time to start planning your festive celebrations, after all it is the most wonderful time of the year, and there is no better place than the BBC Good Food Show Winter. We have a Show absolutely packed to the brim full of festive sparkle, with even more fantastic shopping from hundreds

of artisan producers and all your favourite big brands. Plus, a sprinkling of recipe inspiration for your festive table, hands-on workshops to brush up your skills and mouth-watering tasting sessions. Add a splash of your favourite chefs and you have the recipe for the perfect day out.

Book with confidence For your peace of mind, should the Show be unable to go ahead in light of UK Government or Public Health England guidelines, you can transfer your ticket to a future event or receive a refund.**

Book your tickets today and save 15% quoting GFR4 With thanks to our sponsors and supporters:

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Show highlights

New!

O Wine Theatre

An alternative Christmas

Enjoy a tasting session led by expert Kate Hawking, with this year’s olive wine award winners. Test your tastebuds from festive fizz to classic chardonnay.

N

EW

!

The Festive Kitchen, sponsored by Taste of Game is back! Discover a whole host of alternatives for your festive table, with host Chris Bavin and guests.

The olive wine-tasting theatre

Star-studded theatre We have a fabulous line-up of chefs and experts cooking LIVE. We’ll be joined by Michelin masters Tom Kerridge and Michel Roux Jr, Show favourites James Martin and Nadiya Hussain, queen of baking Dame Mary Berry, and everyone’s favourite Hairy Bikers.

Big Kitchen sessions are now available to book in advance.

Tasting theatre Broaden your flavour horizons with host Katy Truss and a range of artisan producers. Daily themed sessions include samples of chocolate, honey, spices and cheese.

Shop, taste, discover Feast your eyes on an amazing selection of artisan producers, discover new speciality food and drink and meet some of your favourite big brands.

Stock up on all your kitchen essentials.

Time to relax Take some time to wine and dine at the BBC Good Food Restaurant. Choose to enjoy a sit-down meal, of two or three courses, inspired by popular seasonal dishes.

Roll up your sleeves

Learn from the masters and walk away with techniques and culinary essentials to impress your friends and family in our hands-on workshops.

You’ll leave the Show with more than just magical memories and treats, but a whole host of new skills too. Workshops are bookable in advance.

bbcgoodfoodshow.com *15% discount is valid on standard general admission tickets only. Excludes Saturday. Ends 26 September 2021. £3.50 transaction fee per e-ticket order and £4.50 per postal ticket order. Not all celebrities appear on all days. Details correct at time of print. The BBC logo is a trademark of the BBC. © BBC. The Good Food trademark is used under licence from Immediate Media Company London Limited. **In the event that the BBC Good Food Show is postponed, cancelled or River Street Events and Immediate Media deem it unsafe to run the event in light of UK Government and Public Health England guidelines regarding Covid-19, you will be contacted directly with regards to transferring your booking to a future date or requesting a refund. Please note: refunds exclude the transaction fee and See Tickets Refund Protection cost. Subscribers save 20% using their unique 10-digit subscriber number (excludes Saturday tickets). Ends 28 November 2021. Organised and presented by Immediate Live. Immediate Live is the trading name of Upper Street Events Ltd and River Street Events Ltd. These businesses are owned by Immediate Media Company Limited.

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easy health

health

news

Health editor Tracey Raye investigates organic food and shares a nutritious pasta recipe, plus discover the benefits of lentils HEALTH TREND Red lentil pasta with creamy tomato & pepper sauce

HEALTH HACKS

MIKE HARRINGTON/DIGITAL VISION/GETTY | Recipe SARA BUENFELD | Recipe photograph HAYLEY BENOIT

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist ROB MERRET

Is organic better?

Organic food presents numerous benefits. For example, if you have concerns about the environment, then going organic may be the right choice for you. The farming methods associated with it can be helpful for improving soil health as well as encouraging wildlife and biodiversity.

From a health perspective, conventional produce may have higher levels of pesticides and antibiotics depending on farming practices. Some studies suggest that organic produce may supply more micronutrients such as vitamin C, magnesium and phosphorus, and organic meat and milk may contain as much as 50% more nutrients including omega-3 fatty acids.

However, organic food can be pricier and it’s still beneficial to consume non-organic fruit and veg rather than go without in order to achieve your five-a-day.

For more, go to bbcgoodfood.com/ howto/guide/is-organic-healthier.

As well as counting towards your five-a-day, this dish is free of gluten and dairy. The speedy sauce is made with roasted peppers and cashews, which add protein and a lovely creamy texture.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 8 mins EASY V

150g red lentil fusilli 2 handfuls of rocket For the sauce 60g unsalted, unroasted cashews 1 large garlic clove, roughly chopped 1 large roasted red pepper (in red wine vinegar) from a jar, drained, any seeds removed 4 sun-dried tomatoes 8 large basil leaves, roughly chopped

1 First, make the sauce. Put the cashews and garlic in a bowl, then pour over 125ml boiling water and set aside for 5 mins. Meanwhile, put a large pan of water over a high heat. When the water is boiling rapidly, tip in the pasta and a little salt, stir once, then continue to boil for 8 mins, or following pack instructions, until the pasta is softened but still retains some bite.

DISCOVER

HEALTH BENEFITS OF LENTILS

&

2 Meanwhile, add the roasted pepper and sun-dried tomatoes to the bowl with the cashews, garlic and water, then whizz with a hand blender or in a food processor to make a smooth, creamy sauce.

Stir through the basil and season with black pepper.

3 Drain the pasta, mix with the sauce in a large bowl, then divide between two bowls and add a handful of rocket to each.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • 3 of 5-a-day • fibre • gluten free PER SERVING 538 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 3g • carbs 64g • sugars 4g • fibre 8g • protein 30g • salt 0.1g

Fullofiron, selenium & folate

Lentils (lens culinaris) are edible seeds of the legume family and come in a variety of colours including red, green, brown, yellow and black. Quick to prepare and typically good value for money, lentils are:

Tune in to the BBC Good Food Health Podcast – in episode 4, Tracey speaks to Doctors Dean and Ayesha Sherzai about Alzheimer’s disease and how to use diet and lifestyle to support your long-term brain health – available to download from Acast, Spotify, iTunes and podcast streaming services.

Agreatsource of protein

Rich in fibre Low in calories SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 85

5 healthy ideas

yogurt

Use any leftover pots from the back of the fridge to make these quick recipes which also happen to be good for you Spicy yogurt chicken SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins plus optional marinating COOK 20-25 mins EASY

With a sharp knife, make a few slashes in 8 skinless chicken drumsticks. Combine 142ml natural yogurt, 1 tsp chilli powder, 1 tbsp ground cumin, 1 tbsp ground coriander and 2 tsp ground turmeric in a bowl and season to taste. Add the drumsticks, tossing to coat and rubbing the mixture into the meat. If you have time, cover and chill for 30 mins. Remove the drumsticks from the marinade, shaking off the excess, then cook on a hot barbecue for 20-25 mins, turning occasionally until cooked through.

To check the meat is cooked, pierce the thickest part of the drumstick – the juices should run clear.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • iron PER SERVING 229 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 2g • carbs 6g • sugars 2g • fibre none • protein 37g • salt 0.5g

Coleslaw with tahini yogurt dressing SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V

Mix 11/2 tbsp tahini, 5 tbsp Greek yogurt, 1 /2 crushed garlic clove and some seasoning in a large bowl until smooth. The dressing will thicken, so add 2-3 tbsp cold water to loosen it.

Tip in 1 finely sliced small red cabbage, 3 small carrots, cut into matchsticks, and 1 small finely sliced onion to the dressing and toss until the veg is well-coated.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 109 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 2g • carbs 10g • sugars 8g • fibre 6g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g

Supergreen soup with yogurt & pine nuts SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V ❄

Heat 2 tsp olive oil in a medium saucepan over a low-medium heat and cook 1 chopped onion with a pinch of salt for 10 mins, stirring occasionally until softened but not coloured. Add 2 crushed garlic cloves and cook for 1 min more. Tip in 1 potato (about 250g), cut into small cubes, followed by 600ml vegetable stock. Simmer for 10-12 mins until the potato is soft – a cutlery knife should slide into it easily.

Add 120g mixed watercress, rocket and spinach and allow to wilt for 1 min, then tip everything into a blender and blitz until completely smooth. Serve topped with 150g natural yogurt, 20g toasted pine nuts and a drizzle of chilli oil, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 325 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 36g • sugars 14g • fibre 7g • protein 12g • salt 1g

86 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Frozen tropical fruit yogurt SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins EASY V ❄

Put 480g frozen tropical fruit mix, 170g Greek yogurt and 2 tbsp maple syrup or honey in a food processor and blend until smooth. Scoop into bowls or tip into a freezerproof container and freeze to serve later. Top with 200g diced tropical fruit and passion fruit seeds to serve.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 98 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 2g • carbs 15g • sugars 14g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

Griddled aubergines with yogurt & mint SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V

Drizzle 4 small aubergines, sliced into 1cm rounds, with 2 tbsp olive oil. Season with a little salt and pepper and toss in a bowl. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat, and, once hot, cook the aubergine slices for about 2-3 mins on both sides until soft and lightly charred (you’ll need to do this in batches). Remove to a serving plate and leave to cool slightly. Meanwhile, mix 150g natural yogurt with the juice of 1/2 lemon, 2 crushed garlic cloves and a small bunch of mint, roughly chopped. Season to taste. Drizzle the mint yogurt over the griddled aubergines and serve at room temperature.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 105 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 8g • sugars 6g • fibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g

easy health

healthy diet plan

autumn harvest Squash and mushrooms combine in this hearty low-calorie meal for two.

If you add the cabbage to serve, it counts as five of your 5-a-day recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH

Pork & squash goulash cobbler SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist FAYE WEARS

CALCIUM

FIBRE

4OF 5-A-DAY

1 tsp olive oil 250g lean pork fillet, trimmed of any visible fat and cut into chunks 3 celery sticks, chopped (160g) 160g butternut squash, peeled and cut into cubes 1 green pepper, deseeded and diced 100g button mushrooms, stalks pulled out, and large ones halved ½ tsp caraway seeds, plus a pinch for sprinkling 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 2 tbsp tomato purée 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 160g cooked cabbage, to serve For the cobbler topping 100g spelt wholemeal flour 2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp olive oil 100g pot natural yogurt drop of milk, to glaze (optional)

1 Heat the oil in an ovenproof non-stick pan, then stir-fry the pork

for 5-7 mins until it starts to brown.

Tip in the celery, squash, pepper and mushrooms with their stalks, then cook for a few minutes more.

2 Stir in the caraway and paprika, then pour in 350ml boiling water, the bouillon, tomato purée and garlic. Cover the pan and simmer for 20 mins until the veg is tender, then remove the lid and simmer for another 5 mins to reduce a little.

3 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. For the cobbler topping, put the flour in a bowl and stir in the baking powder. Combine the oil and yogurt, then stir that into the flour.

Bring the mix together into a dough using a cutlery knife. Knead very lightly on a clean work surface, then form into a sausage shape about the width of a large cucumber. Slice evenly into six rounds and arrange

on top of the goulash. Brush with a little milk to glaze, if you like, and scatter over a pinch of caraway seeds. Bake for 15-20 mins until golden and cooked – you can tell by lifting one to see if the mixture has set beneath. Serve with the cooked cabbage on the side, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW low cal • low fat • healthy • calcium • fibre • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 469 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 3g • carbs 46g • sugars 11g • fibre 11g • protein 38g • salt 1.6g

Scan here to sign up for a free My Good Food account and access our latest Healthy Diet Plan, or visit bbcgoodfood.com/healthy-diet-plan

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 87

The perfect gift for any foodie Choose from over 30 chapters of our best-ever recipes, hand-picked by the BBC Good Food team, then complete it with a personalised cover.

Whether you’re looking for family favourites, inspiring healthy lunches or Good Food’s best bakes, we’ve got you covered from just £20.

Treat yourself or a friend VISIT mycookbooks.bbcgoodfood.com or scan the code to create your cookbook

WEEKEND

Enjoy a leisurely Sunday with our all-in-one slow-roasted guinea fowl, celebrate Pride with an eye-catching bake, plus now’s the time to make jam for our get-ahead Christmas hamper

ROAST GUINEA FOWL WITH WHITE WINE, TOMATOES & OLIVES p96

WEEKEND BAKE Rainbow cake, p102

MY FAVOURITE DISH Sandra Leong shares food memories from Singapore,p90

BATCH COOK Peach & cardamom jam, p110

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 89

M Y FAVO U R ITE D I S H

SANDRA LEONG’S

SINGAPOREAN NASI LEMAK Sandra Leong, from snack-food chain Old Chang Kee, is helping raise the profile of Singaporean food in the UK. Here, she shares fond memories and her recipe for traditional rice dish, nasi lemak words TONY NAYLOR

T

he precise origin of the curry puff is lost to history. But when Sandra Leong decided to introduce London to real Singaporean food, she felt this curried snack – possibly a 19th-century attempt by Hainanese cooks to recreate a chicken pasty for their British colonial employers – had serious crossover potential.

She was right. Working with Singaporean snackfood chain, Old Chang Kee, Sandra opened its first London branch in 2018 and those curry puffs flew out, alongside curries, nasi lemak and laksa. Local office workers loved: ‘Singapore’s Cornish pasty.’

90 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

I’deat ahot breakfast outin Singapore.

Maybe Chinese noodlesor rotiprata withcurry

None of this was on the agenda when Sandra first arrived in the UK. A former journalist, she came to London to do a master’s in political communications (‘It’s completely wasted,’ she laughs, ‘my poor parents!’), but, after settling here, she became increasingly frustrated at the lack of identifiably Singaporean food.

‘From an outsiders’ view, Singaporean-slashMalaysian food is quite similar,’ says the 40 year-old, Old Chang Kee’s UK director, ‘but if you’re Singaporean, there are distinct differences. We’re proud of our cuisine. No-one had stuck a flag down saying, “this is Singaporean food”. That’s how it started. Being homesick, not being able to find food I liked.

‘Singapore is a melting pot of ethnicities, Chinese, Malay, Indian, European, and nowhere is that more visible than food. Home cooking might lean to your own ethnicity but, eating out, often at hawker centres (markets of specialist food stalls), one of our defining characteristics is we tend to eat dishes from different cultures. Singaporeans embrace everything, from Indian curries to chicken chop – fried chicken with chips and gravy – usually made by Hainanese chefs who run what Singapore calls Western food stalls.

weekend

‘Typically – and this is why I struggle with cereal – I’d eat a hot breakfast out in Singapore. Maybe Chinese noodles, roti prata with curry or kaya toast with coconut-pandan jam. That’s served with really runny boiled eggs broken into a saucer with soy sauce and white pepper that you then dip the toast into.

‘Mid-morning, at work, you might go out for a hot snack, like a curry puff or a fish ball skewer. Then at lunch you gather your colleagues and go to a hawker market or food court. ‘Economy rice’, a choice of stir-fried meats, vegetables, curries and rice for a fixed price, is a very popular lunch.

‘Eating out is cheap. Economy rice might be S$5 dollars, so £2 or £3, but food costs are going up and hawker culture is at risk because people don’t want to pay more. A lot of hawkers, aunties and uncles as we call them, are older and the next generation don’t want to take over the businesses. There’s been a lot of work done recently to preserve hawker culture.

‘Personally, I’d go home for dinner. My mum worked as a stockbroker but, once the markets closed, she’d come home and cook us a combination of meat, fish and vegetable dishes and a clear soup. That ‘three dishes, one soup’ style of eating reflects our Chinese heritage, but the dishes weren’t always Chinese.

Clockwise, from top left: Sandra opened the first London branch of Old Chang Kee; as a child with her mother; a family gathering in Singapore with her mum, sisters, cousins and nieces; the signature chicken curry puff with egg; Old Chang Kee’s Singapore laksa

‘Mum loved to cook on big occasions like Chinese New Year or Christmas, when we’d have 50 people at our house. We’d have family and friends round once a week, too. Mum and dad are massive mahjong players, so it would be food and mahjong till midnight.

‘I’m ethnically Chinese but a quarter Peranakan, which culturally is a mix of Malay and Chinese, and my mum’s most famous dish is a really, really hot quintessentially Peranakan pork rib curry. It uses Southeast Asian spices with pork, fermented soy beans and tamarind, so the effect is simultaneously sweet, salty and spicy. That Singaporean classic, Hainanese chicken rice (juicy poached chicken and rice cooked in chicken stock and chicken fat with various condiments), was another of mum’s favourites, and nasi lemak was a big celebratory dish.

‘Several countries claim ownership of nasi lemak (find Sandra’s recipe overleaf) and there’s a friendly rivalry between Singapore and Malaysia, but unlike laksa – Singapore rice noodle laksa has a lighter, coconutty broth – the Malaysian and Singaporean versions of nasi lemak are broadly the same. Fragrant rice cooked in coconut milk, and lemongrass is the star, with crunchy toppings and sambal. My mum always served it with fried chicken.’ oldchangkee.co.uk SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 91

weekend Nasi lemak SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 35 mins MORE EFFORT

1 First, to prepare the rice, wash thoroughly in a sieve until the water runs clear. If you’re using a rice cooker, put all the ingredients for the coconut rice in along with 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp sugar and 350ml water.

When the rice is ready, leave the lid on for 10 mins before opening, then fluff the rice with a fork. If you’re cooking rice on the hob, use a pan with a lid. Put all the ingredients for the rice in with 450ml water, 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp sugar on a high heat, bring to the boil, then cover. Simmer on a low heat for 10 mins, or until the liquid has evaporated. Let the rice sit with the lid on for another 10 mins. You should be able to see the individual rice grains. If the rice looks a bit wet, spread it out on a tray or into a colander to dry out before serving.

2 To make the sambal, tip all the ingredients, except the tamarind paste, with a big pinch of salt in a food processor, then blitz to a paste.

3 Stir-fry the sambal paste over a medium-high heat for 10-15 mins.

The colour of the paste will darken and the oil will separate. Stir in the tamarind paste, and season to taste with salt and sugar. Leave to cool.

4 Heat enough oil in a pan to coat the base, then fry the peanuts until brown, and the dried anchovies until crisp. (You can also use roasted peanuts and skip frying them, if you like.) Remove the nuts and anchovies from the pan, then fry the eggs to your liking.

5 Divide the rice between plates – you can simply spoon it on, or fill a small bowl with a portion, then turn it out onto each plate. Top with the anchovies, peanuts, sliced cucumber, fried eggs and sambal.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • gluten free • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 915 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 11g • carbs 113g • sugars 9g • fibre 4g • protein 39g • salt 5.6g

tip As a short-cut, you could use shop-bought sambal paste rather than make it.

92 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

FIVE KEY SINGAPOREAN INGREDIENTS Dried anchovies

I fry them to snack on or add them to noodle or rice dishes for a salty, umami hit.

We also use ground-up anchovies to start soup stocks.

it and toast it in a pan.

I put fermented shrimp paste in my rempah and use it to make shrimp fried rice or in omelettes, if you want a big salty taste.

Fish balls

Rempah

Processed surimi fish paste is used to make the fish balls and cakes you get in a lot of Asian restaurants. You can add the balls to soups or chop up fishcakes in fried rice. I like fish balls with a real bouncy texture.

A base seasoning paste of things like shallots, chillies, candlenuts, galangal and lemongrass – every family has their own recipe. It’s ground with oil, then fried.

Freeze it in ice cube trays, then use from frozen, adding meat Roti prata The for a stir-fry or coconut Southeast Asian milk for a curry. version of Indian paratha. I eat a lot of curry so always have Belachan prata, ready to pan-fry This shrimp paste and dip. I like the really comes in a block and thin, crispy ones. you cut little strips off

Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist AMY KINNEAR

vegetable oil, for frying For the coconut rice 500g jasmine rice 175ml coconut milk 2 pandan leaves, or 2-3 drops of pandan essence 1 lemongrass stalk For the sambal 50g shallots, peeled 10g candlenuts, pounded 25g dried chillies, soaked for 30 mins, deseeded and cut into chunks 25g fresh chillies, deseeded and cut into chunks 10g belachan (shrimp paste) 10g sliced galangal, or 1 tsp galangal paste 10g lemongrass, white part only, sliced ½ tbsp tamarind paste For the toppings 70g raw unsalted peanuts 100g dried anchovies 4 eggs 1 cucumber, thickly sliced

Learn with BBC Good Food has teamed up with FutureLearn, one of Britain’s finest online education providers, to bring to you a series of courses to suit your passion and skill level. Every course has been designed according to principles of effective learning, through storytelling and discussion, using community support to celebrate your progress. Join a wide community of like-minded learners and share your results. Subscription automatically ends when a course is completed.

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F R E S H WAY S F O R S U N D AY S

ONE-PAN ROAST Barney Desmazery makes entertaining easier, using an all-in-one method to create a sophisticated Sunday lunch followed by a luxurious no-bake dessert photographs KIM LIGHTBODY

Don’t get me wrong, I love roast chicken – it was the main course at my wedding – but it’s easily the most common Sunday lunch we eat. Occasionally, I like to break the monotony with guinea fowl. Some people classify it as game , but it isn’t – it’s farmed, not hunted – and it’s more flavoursome and leaner than chicken.

But, it’s not so strong or dissimilar that any fussy roast chicken lover would question your new choice of poultry.

Guinea fowl can be roasted like chicken (just for less time), but I’ve given it a seasonal slant by using the roasting juices in a tomato-and-olive sauce and serving it with cheese-crusted potatoes (which might just be the finest thing to have ever happened to baby potatoes).

I’ve also shared the best dessert recipe I’ve written to date, at least when it comes to the ratio of ease to showstopping appeal.

While similar to a fridge cake, it has the decadence of a smooth chocolate truffle tart.

Barney is Good Food’s skills & shows editor. He has worked as a chef in London, France and Australia, and is a pro at adapting restaurant recipes to make at home. @barney_desmazery

94 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

weekend

MENU Roast guinea fowl with white wine, tomatoes & olives Parmesan potatoes Green beans with shallots & tarragon

Chocolate pretzel tart

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 95

Roast guinea fowl with white wine, tomatoes & olives This all-in-one dish is inspired by the Italian classic chicken cacciatore, which is always popular. Except, here, the sauce is made in the same pan as the guinea fowl roasts.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY

2 tbsp olive oil 1.5kg guinea fowl 4 garlic cloves, finely sliced 2 bay leaves 1 large thyme sprig 400g can chopped tomatoes or passata

Parmesan potatoes If your baking tray is truly non-stick, you won’t need to line it with baking parchment to make these potatoes. However, if you have doubts, it’s best to line it.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V

60g parmesan or vegetarian alternative, finely grated 1 tbsp thyme leaves, finely chopped 900g baby potatoes, halved lengthways 1 tbsp olive oil

Green beans with shallots & tarragon Aside from olive oil, walnut, hazelnut or truffle oil would also work well in the dressing.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

1 long or 2 small shallots, peeled and finely sliced into rings 2 tsp white wine vinegar ½ tsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp olive oil 300g green beans, topped and tailed and halved at an angle small handful of tarragon leaves

150ml white wine 150-200g green olives (use pitted or leave the stone in for better flavour)

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole over a medium heat.

Season the guinea fowl all over with salt and pepper, then brown in the casserole for 15-20 mins, turning it with tongs until deep golden and crisp all over. Remove to a plate.

2 Reduce the heat to low, then add the garlic, bay and thyme. Stir and sizzle for a minute, then tip in the tomatoes. Use the wine to swill out the tomato can, then pour that in, add the olives and stir everything together. Bring to a simmer.

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Mix the cheese with the thyme and plenty of ground black pepper. Line a shallow baking tray with baking parchment, if needed.

2 Scatter the parmesan mixture over the tray and shake it a little so it settles into an even layer. Arrange the potatoes cut-side down over the cheese, then drizzle with the oil and season with some sea salt flakes. Bake for 40 mins alongside the guinea fowl, then turn the oven

1 Tip the shallots into a bowl and season with a small pinch of salt.

Stir in the vinegar, then the mustard and olive oil.

2 Cook the beans in a pan of boiling salted water for 3-4 mins until just tender. Drain, then toss with the shallot mix. Toss in the tarragon just before serving.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 56 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 0.4g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 3g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

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3 Nestle the guinea fowl in the sauce, breast-side-up, then transfer to the oven and roast uncovered for 50 mins-1 hr until the skin is crisp and the legs are coming away from the body. Leave to rest in the sauce for 10 mins, then lift the guinea fowl using tongs and allow all the juices from the cavity to drain back into the sauce before transferring to a board. Give the sauce a stir, taste for seasoning and briefly reheat on the hob if needed. Carve the guinea fowl and serve with the sauce spooned over.

GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 617 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 7g • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 75g • salt 1.8g

temperature up to 210C/190C fan/ gas 61/2 for a final 5-10 mins to make the potatoes extra-crisp. They’re ready when the parmesan has formed a deep golden crust around the potatoes. Serve hot.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 251 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 3g • carbs 35g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 0.3g

tip If you can’t get hold of guinea fowl, you can also make this with a small chicken – simply add 20 mins to the cooking time in step 3.

Alternatively, you could try pheasant, which will cook in the same time as the guinea fowl.

weekend

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weekend No-bake chocolate pretzel tart Bitter dark chocolate keeps this tart grown-up, but you can adapt the ratio to increase the milk chocolate if you prefer it sweeter.

SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins plus at least 2 hrs 30 mins chilling COOK 5 mins EASY V

100g salted pretzels, plus extra to serve 100g butter 2 tbsp light brown soft sugar 200g dark chocolate, broken into pieces 100g milk chocolate, broken into pieces 300ml double cream

1 Tip the pretzels into a food processor and pulse to rough crumbs. Melt the butter over a low heat, then tip in the sugar and turn the heat up to medium to sizzle the butter and dissolve the sugar. Pour the sweetened butter into the food processor with the pretzel crumbs, then pulse again until you have a damp, crumbly mixture. Tip into a 23cm tart tin and press it up the side, ensuring it’s an even thickness all the way around the tin. Chill in the fridge for at least 30 mins.

2 Tip the dark and milk chocolate into a heatproof bowl, then pour the double cream into a small pan.

Bring the cream to the boil, then

immediately pour it over the chocolate. Use a spatula to stir everything together until smooth and shiny. Scrape the chocolate mixture into the chilled tart case and smooth the top using a spatula.

Return to the fridge for at least 2 hrs until set, or for up to 48 hrs.

To serve, crush a few more pretzels into rough crumbs, then sprinkle these around the edge of the tart along with a pinch of sea salt flakes.

Remove the tart from the tin, then slice and serve.

PER SERVING 551 kcals • fat 44g • saturates 27g • carbs 33g • sugars 21g • fibre 2g • protein 4g •

tip WANT TO GET AHEAD? Prepare the tart up to two days ahead, cover and chill until needed.

Crush some extra pretzels ahead of time too, seal in a food bag and store at room temperature.

Then, when it’s time to serve, you’ll just need to sprinkle over the crushed pretzels and slice.

salt 0.8g

next month Tom Kerridge’s pub classics

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Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist MAX ROBINSON

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Top tips When you’re suffering from heartburn and indigestion, Gaviscon can offer quick, long-lasting relief – but there are some other easy steps you can take to help prevent the onset.

Tuck in Gaviscon Double Action tablets get to work fast, so you can enjoy your day without worrying about heartburn and indigestion

W

hether you’re hosting a family barbecue or going out for dinner with friends, summer is full of opportunities to enjoy great company and delicious food. Of course, if you suffer from heartburn or indigestion, indulging in the good times isn’t always as easy as it should be. Fortunately, that’s where Gaviscon can be of some help.

Gaviscon Double Action tablets combat both heartburn and indigestion for long-lasting relief*, so you don’t have to miss out. They work in two main

ways – by neutralising excess acid in your stomach and by forming a protective barrier to prevent acid reflux (when excess stomach acid travels back up your oesophagus).

While some similar medicines can take up to two or even three days to work, Gaviscon Double Action tablets can get to work instantly and last up to twice as long as antacids**. What’s more, as the tablets are chewable and convenient to bring with you when you’re out and about, you can benefit from soothing relief whenever and wherever suits you.

Stress less – If you’re feeling stressed, you may find it hard to follow your normal eating routines, which could trigger heartburn and indigestion. Getting enough sleep and exercise can help.

Slow and steady – When eating on the go, it can be tempting to consume large amounts of food in a short period of time, but this can be difficult to digest. Eating regular meals throughout the day can help you to eat more mindfully.

Flavour explosion – It’s natural to want to try different cuisines, but eating a large amount of spicy, fatty or rich foods your body isn’t used to can cause heartburn and indigestion.

Try eating a small amount first, then build up your portion sizes over time.

Midnight snacking – Lying down straight after eating can lead to acid reflux. If you can, eat at least two hours before you go to bed, or make sure your head and shoulders are propped up to aid digestion.

Learn more about heartburn and indigestion at gaviscon.co.uk *Up to 4 hours ** For verification, please contact PO BOX 4044, SLOUGH, SL1 0NS. Gaviscon Double Action Chewable Tablets for heartburn & indigestion relief. Always read the label. RB-M-43442

Let’s get cosy WARM UP WITH THESE COMFORTING DISHES

• Retro chocolate sponge pudding • Double sausage & bean casserole with cheese-on-toast crumbs • Creamy mushroom lasagne

PLUS >>GHOULISHGOODIESFORHALLOWEEN >>BONFIRENIGHTCOOKIES >>TOM KERRIDGE’S PUB CLASSICS

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WEEKEND BAKE

BAKE FOR PRIDE Show support for the LGBTQ+ community by making this beautiful rainbow layer cake, ideal for sharing at Pride festivities recipe LIBERTY MENDEZ photograph HAYLEY BENOIT

Rainbow cake

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist ROB MERRETT

SERVES 12-14 PREP 1 hr 45 mins plus at least 1 hr 30 mins chilling COOK 20 mins MORE EFFORT V

340g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tins 340g caster sugar 6 eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 340g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 2 tbsp milk 400g caramel or lemon curd For the Swiss meringue buttercream 5 egg whites 375g caster sugar 500g unsalted butter, cubed and softened 3 tsp vanilla extract food colouring gels (for Pride, the colours are red, orange, yellow, green, dark blue, purple, light pink, baby blue, brown and black)

1 Butter three 20cm round cake tins and line their bases with baking parchment. Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Beat the butter and sugar together in a large bowl until light and smooth.

Gradually beat in the eggs until combined, then mix in the vanilla.

Fold in the flour and baking powder until fully combined. Stir in the milk to loosen.

2 Divide the mixture between the three tins and bake the sponges for

20 mins until golden and a skewer inserted into the centre of each cake comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tins for 10 mins, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

3 Meanwhile, make the Swiss meringue buttercream. Put the egg whites and sugar in a heatproof bowl set over a small pan of gently simmering water, ensuring the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Whisk for 3-4 mins until the sugar dissolves.

Remove from the heat and tip the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer (or use an electric whisk) and whisk for 10 mins on a medium-high speed until you have a thick meringue. Gradually whisk in the softened butter, 1 tbsp at a time, until fully incorporated and the buttercream is fluffy. Mix in the vanilla extract.

4 Put one of the sponges on a plate or cake stand, top with 3-4 tbsp of the buttercream and spread out so that it’s thicker at the edge. Add half of either the caramel or lemon curd and spread this over the icing on the middle part of the cake, but don’t spread to the edges. Top with the next sponge and repeat, then top with the final sponge. Smooth a thin layer of the buttercream around the cake – this is called a crumb coat.

Chill in the fridge for at least 45 mins, then smooth another layer of buttercream around the cake using a palette knife to fully cover the sponge, reserving half for

102 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

decoration. Put the cake and reserved buttercream back in the fridge for another 45 mins-1 hr.

5 Divide the remaining buttercream between 11 small bowls and mix a different gel colouring (see tip, right) into 10 of them, leaving the last bowl white. Use a different piping bag for each colour, either cutting a 1cm hole in the end or applying a round nozzle.

6 Pipe one row of buttercream blobs in alternating colours from the top to the bottom of the cake, then use a teaspoon or small palette knife to lightly smear each blob of frosting away from you. For the second row, choose the colour that’s next in sequence to start, piping over the thinnest part of that smeared blob.

As you continue to pipe around the cake following this pattern, you will create a swirl effect.

7 Continue the previous piping method in a circle on top of the cake, but this time smearing the icing in towards the middle of the cake until the top is covered. It’s now ready to slice and serve. The cake will keep in an airtight container for up to three days.

PER SERVING (14) 866 kcals • fat 54g • saturates 33g • carbs 85g • sugars 67g • fibre 1g • protein 9g • salt 0.5g

tip GEL COLOURS Instead of buying all of the gel colourings, you can buy the primary colours (plus black and brown) and make the other shades by mixing them.

• Turn to page 118 to read Melissa Thompson’s celebration of LGBTQ+ people in the hospitality industry, who share what Pride means to them

weekend

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 103

SEASONAL

SUMMER TURNS TO AUTUMN

End-of-season figs, plums and cavolo nero shine in these recipes from Esther Clark, plus learn how to grow your own with tips from Emma Crawforth of BBC Gardeners’ World photographs YUKI SUGIURA

F

igs are at their best at the end of summer, when they’re plump, slightly squishy and hanging loosely from the tree. The flesh is sweet, sticky and delicious in all types of dishes. Poach them in masala with a sabayon cream, roast and churn pieces through ice cream or pair with salty cured meats and cheeses. I also love figs with burrata piled on toast with along with ribbons of prosciutto (p106). If you cant get burrata, a good-quality mozzarella or fontina cheese will do the trick.

In the UK, plums are in season from May to October, but by the end of the warmer months, they’re ready to be baked into one of my favourite treats of all time: ricotta cake (p108). Sharp plums and a buttery ricotta sponge combine to make a delicate pudding. Roast a double batch of plums as described in step 1 of the recipe, then enjoy the leftovers with granola or porridge.

They freeze well, too, for when the fruit trees are bare.

One of the unsung heroes of the vegetable patch is cavolo nero, otherwise known as ‘Italian kale’, a dark green leafy vegetable that’s rich in iron with a deep, mature cabbage-like flavour. It can be fried in olive oil with garlic and chilli, then tossed through pasta, like many other greens. Its most-famous use is in ribollita, a bread, tomato and kale stew from Tuscany (try my take on the traditional recipe on page 106). It’s light yet rich and comforting, ideal for September, when we begin the transition from summer to autumn. As well as being easy to make, the ingredients are relatively inexpensive and the perfect way to use up a glut of cavolo nero if you grow your own.

Before becoming deputy food editor, Esther trained at Leiths School of Food & Wine, then worked as a chef in Italy. She loves to cook for friends at home, and particularly enjoys creating recipes using new ingredients and seasonal produce. @esthermclark

104 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

weekend

Fig, burrata & prosciutto tartine, p106

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 105

VEG Q&A

Use larger slices of sourdough in this recipe for an impressivelooking lunch or starter.

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY

4 slices of sourdough olive oil, for drizzling 2 tbsp fig chutney 2 x 100g balls burrata, drained 8 slices of prosciutto or parma ham 4-6 ripe figs, roughly torn or halved handful of thyme or oregano, leaves picked balsamic vinegar, to serve

Tuscan-style ribollita Traditionally this thick, chunky stew was a way of using up stale bread, but it also showcases tomatoes, beans and cavolo nero.

If you’re not vegetarian and you have the end of a parmesan rind hanging about in your fridge, you can add that as well to give an even richer, delicious depth of flavour.

SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 onion, finely chopped 2 celery sticks, finely chopped 1 carrot, chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed pinch of chilli flakes 1 rosemary sprig 400g can chopped tomatoes 500ml hot chicken or vegetable stock 400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1 parmesan rind (optional) 250g cavolo nero or kale, chopped 150g stale crusty bread, torn into chunks (see tip) 1 tbsp red wine vinegar a few leaves of basil (optional) and grated parmesan or vegetarian alternative, to serve

106 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

1 Heat a griddle pan over a high heat or heat the grill to high. Drizzle each side of the bread with a little olive oil, then toast in the pan or under the grill for 2 mins on each side until golden brown.

2 Spread the fig chutney over the toasted bread. Tear or chop the burrata into chunky pieces and arrange these on the toast, create little nests of prosciutto on top, then add the fig pieces. Sprinkle with the thyme, then drizzle with more olive oil and a little balsamic vinegar.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • iron PER SERVING 519 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 9g • carbs 64g • sugars 31g • fibre 7g • protein 19g • salt 2.3g

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan or flameproof casserole over a medium heat and fry the onion, celery and carrot with a pinch of salt for 15 mins until soft. Add the garlic and chilli flakes, and cook for 1 min.

2 Stir in the rosemary sprig, tomatoes, stock, beans and parmesan rind, if using, and bring to a simmer. Add the cavolo and cook, covered, for 10 mins. Stir through the bread and cook for several minutes more to warm through, then add the vinegar and season.

Spoon into bowls, drizzle with a little more oil and sprinkle with the basil, if using, and the grated cheese.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 196 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 24g • sugars 7g • fibre 7g • protein 10g • salt 0.8g

tip It’s important to use a stale crusty bread, because it needs to be slightly robust – as the stew cooks, the bread absorbs the liquid and transforms into pillowy, dumpling-like chunks. If it’s too fresh, it will turn into soggy paste.

PLUMS When are plums ready?

Pick when they part readily from the tree. For dessert varieties, harvest when fully ripe. It will take a few goes to get each one at its peak and you should eat within a few days.

Pick culinary varieties (for cooking) while the fruit is slightly unripe.

What time of year do they grow?

Dessert types can be harvested in late July, but bullace plums will be ready in November – they’re picked after frost when they’re sweeter.

But, most plums are ready in August and September. They grow on trees that need care all year round.

Are there different varieties?

Yes. Most are purplish, but there are green, yellow and orange plums – all available as dessert plums, the most popular of which is ‘Victoria’. ‘Czar’ is a culinary plum, like damson and bullace. Green or yellow gages, like ‘Oullin’s Golden’, are sweet like dessert plums.

How easy is it to grow your own?

Plums are easier to grow than other stone fruits – many gardeners will find they have a glut. But, the trees can be prone to pests and diseases.

They need a warm, sheltered site and are naturally large, so nurseries supply them grafted onto rootstocks to keep them compact. Some, like ‘Victoria’, are self-fertile, but all fruit is best with a pollination partner.

Take care with pruning – this should only be done in spring or summer.

What’s your favourite way to cook or eat plums?

Plums in red wine combines two of my favourite things. Cover halved, stoned plums with red wine and sugar to taste, then simmer for about 20 minutes. Delicious!

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist WEI TANG

Fig, burrata & prosciutto tartine

Emma Crawforth is a qualified horticulturist, trained at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, and is the gardening editor for BBC Gardeners’ World. This month, she advises on plums.

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SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 107

weekend

Plum, lemon & ricotta cake In Italy, cake is traditionally eaten for breakfast, and this is one I used to make for guests when I was living on a farm in Tuscany.

The ricotta gives it a light, fluffy texture and buttery flavour. Plums add soft sweetness, but the sponge works just as well with raspberries, peaches or cherries. Slice and serve with a dollop of cream or crème fraîche that’s spiked with a little amaretto, or enjoy on its own.

SERVES 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY V ❄

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3-4 plums, halved and stoned 2 tbsp light brown soft sugar 150g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the tin 250g ricotta 230g golden caster sugar 2 lemons, zested 3 eggs, lightly beaten 180g self-raising flour ½ tsp baking powder 40g hazelnuts, chopped crème fraîche, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ gas 5. Arrange the plums cut-side down in a single layer in a roasting tin, sprinkle over the brown sugar and roast for 10 mins until tender but still holding their shape. Leave to cool a little in the tin.

2 Butter the base and sides of a 20cm springform tin and line with

baking parchment. Tip the ricotta, caster sugar and lemon zest into a stand mixer and beat for 5 mins, or do this with an electric whisk.

Beat in the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

With the motor running, slowly pour in the butter, beating until fully combined. Add the flour and baking powder, and quickly mix just to incorporate – don’t over-beat.

Spoon into the tin, then press the roasted plums on top, cut-side up, and sprinkle over the hazelnuts.

3 Bake for 50 mins-1 hr, or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Leave to cool until just warm, or fully cool.

Serve with crème fraîche.

PER SERVING 473 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 13g • carbs 53g • sugars 36g • fibre 2g • protein 9g • salt 0.6g

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Terms & Conditions Offer valid until 31 October 2021 and is subject to availability. Full details can be found on the Horwood website. Prices and discount correct at time of going to print. Delivery within three working days to UK mainland only; some exclusions may apply. If not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 14 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). For full terms and conditions visit horwood.co.uk/customer/pages/shipping-delivery-information. Your contract for supply of goods is with Horwood.

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 109

New! GET AHEAD FOR CHRISTMAS

MAKE AND GIVE Beginning this month, get ahead for the festive season with our simple but special recipes for jams, chutneys and biscuits to create hampers of homemade treats for your loved ones when December comes around recipe CASSIE BEST photograph TOM REGESTER

Cardamom adds a wonderful floral note to this sweet peach jam, but you could easily adapt the recipe if you fancy a different flavour.

Vanilla seeds, thyme leaves or a splash of almond liqueur are all delicious alternatives.

MAKES 3 x 400g jars PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT V

1.2kg ripe peaches (about 12), halved and stoned 1 lemon, zested and juiced 15 cardamom pods, cracked, seeds removed and reserved 800g caster sugar

1 Sterilise three 400g jars (see tip, right) and put a saucer in the freezer to chill (you will use this later to test whether the jam has set).

2 Cut each peach half into six to eight pieces, then tip the fruit into a large saucepan set over a mediumlow heat along with the lemon zest and juice. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer and bubble for 10 mins –the peaches will turn juicy and start to soften.

3 Crush the cardamom seeds with a pestle and mortar and add these

to the peach mixture along with the sugar. Reduce the heat to low and stir until the sugar has dissolved.

Once dissolved, turn up the heat to medium-high and bubble for 15-20 mins, stirring occasionally to prevent the jam from catching, until the jam is set and has reached 105C on a sugar thermometer. If you don’t have a thermometer, spoon a little of the jam onto the chilled saucer, leave it for 30 seconds, then draw a line through it with your finger – if it wrinkles and doesn’t flood the gap, it’s ready. If not, boil for 2 mins more, then check again.

4 Leave to cool for 10-15 mins to allow a more even distribution of peach chunks. You may find that a little foam rises to the top; if so, simply stir this back into the jam.

Use a funnel to help you fill the jars or do this with a ladle, being very careful as the jam will still be extremely hot. Seal with the lids, then store in a cool, dark place.

Unopened jars will keep for up to a year. Once opened, keep the jam in the fridge and eat within a month.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • gluten free PER TBSP 37 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • fibre 0.2g • protein 0.1g • salt none

110 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

STERILISING JAM JARS Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/ gas 1. Wash the jars in hot, soapy water, then rinse well and place on a baking sheet.

Put in the oven and leave for about 15 mins, or until they are completely dry.

(If using Kilner jars, boil the rubber seals for about 5 mins instead, as dry heat will crack them.) Fill the jars with the jam while it’s hot.

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist AGATHE GITS

Peach & cardamom jam

weekend

next month Pumpkin pickle

Transform squash into a festive chutney in our October issue, on sale 23 September

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 111

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i op n oN

Our columnists discuss what’s new in the world of food and drink, plus a recipe from the star of TV’s Unforgotten

HEAR FROM THE FOUNDERS OF CHAPATI CLUB AND OTHER LGBTQ+ FOOD HEROES, p118

In the opinion section Mumbai street food

what Pride means to me

finding heat

EmmaFreudcooksandchats with Sanjeev Bhaskar, p114

Melissa Thompson shares

VictoriaMoorechoosestop wines with a spicy kick, p123

with a twist

in a glass

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 113

Emma Freud meets

Sanjeev Bhaskar star of Unforgotten into her kitchen and cooks his twist on a Mumbai classic street-food dish photographs RICHARD CURTIS

114 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

opinion

I

’ve admired Sanjeev Bhaskar since he changed the nature of mainstream broadcasting 25 years ago with Goodness Gracious Me. I’ve known him since he acted in Notting Hill (a movie I script-edited) and I appreciate him for the amount of time he’s devoted to Comic Relief over the years (the charity I work for). But, until he came to my home with a special recipe he created for BBC Good Food and we ate (and talked, and talked, and talked), I hadn’t realised he is also the greatest of humans.

Emma: The recipe that you’ve created for us – why did you choose this?

Sanjeev: It’s my version of pau bhaji, which is a classic dish in Mumbai. It’s a staple street food because, effectively, you can make it from leftovers. I like it having so many consistencies – there’s a crunch to it from the vegetables, sweetness from the aubergine pickle, softness from the pau buns, tang from the lemon juice and depth from the pau masala. If this dish was a personality, it would be a sparkling character you really liked who loves telling great stories. What more could you want from your lunch?

E: Your parents are Punjabi. Tell me about them.

S: My mum and dad both lived their childhoods under the British Raj. The Partition took place in 1947 when Dad was 16, and all Hindus and Sikhs had to move from the new Pakistan to the new India. Dad ended up in a refugee camp in Delhi. After the war, Britain was rebuilding, starting up the NHS etc, and the UK just didn’t have enough manpower. So, 10 years later when Enoch Powell sent out a letter for children of the former Empire to come to Britain to work, my dad moved to the UK. E: You grew up in Hounslow – how did you find it?

S: Growing up was mostly embarrassing and awkward.

I just wanted to fit in. For the whole of my schooldays, there were only about three kids who ever came around to the house. When I was 10, I was playing with a bunch of white kids I didn’t know. One of them said, ‘What’s your name?’ and I said, ‘Steve.’ Then, over the next half hour, they kept shouting ‘Steve!’ but I didn’t respond.

When I realised, I just thought, ‘This is ridiculous, I can’t do this.’

E: What food did you have when you were growing up?

S: It was all over the place. At home, it was mainly Indian food, though my mum would occasionally make a shepherd’s pie or pizza and ‘Indianise’ it. And then at school, we got all the regular traditional British stodge, mostly with powdered mash.

E: So your home life had a Punjabi culture and your school life was very British – were the two worlds quite separate from each other?

S: The difference between the cultures was about two-and-a-half inches; it was the thickness of our front door. On the inside, there were different rules, morals, tastes and smells, a different language. Outside that front door, it was completely different.

E: In effect, you lived in two countries?

S: Yes, and one of the things that connected those two countries was television. Sitting down with my family to watch The Saint or Star Trek or Top of the Pops, that was the bridge between the two, my portal to possibilities. And I started to think it’d be amazing to be part of that, the world of making that stuff up.

E: Were you popular at school?

S: The end of the 70s was a socially troubled time – racism was quite overt and the National Front were marching; in fact, they tried recruiting outside my school. At 15, the white kids that I’d known for years were suddenly not being particularly nice to me, and the Asian kids weren’t being nice to me because I wasn’t condemning the white kids as I just couldn’t understand the whole ‘taking sides’ thing. So my immediate world seemed utterly unstable.

E: How did that affect you?

S: I think as a teenager I had to reassess the phrase ‘my people’. I realised my community was not about the colour of my skin or my religion or where my parents are from, because none of those things were reassuring to me at that moment in time.

E: Did you always want to act?

S: When I was five, I told my dad that I wanted to be an actor and he said, ‘It’s pronounced “doctor.”’ I never acted at school, my parents never went to the theatre – for them, cultural activities could only be hobbies. ‘We can watch it, but we don’t do it.’ So, that idea of acting being a real possibility for me just didn’t exist. But, my passion for those stories was there from the beginning.

WhenIwas growing up,the difference between theAsian andBritish cultures inmylife wasthe thickness ofour front door

E: In that case, how did you end up with a career as a writer, performer, comedian, actor, producer?

S: I did a degree in business and worked in marketing.

But, when I was 30 I had to sue the company where I worked for breach of contract, which took two years to sort. During that time, I couldn’t get a job. So, I rang Nitin Sawhney, a friend I’d written some sketches with SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 115

opinion

at university, and said, ‘Let’s perform that material.’

We created a show in a little fringe venue – it was my first time on stage – and it got a great review in Time Out, which meant some BBC producers came to see it.

That show ended up becoming Goodness Gracious Me, all because of the litigation. It’s such a weird outcome.

E: It was the first ever British-Asian sketch show and it changed the history of broadcasting in the UK. In what ways did it change your life?

S: Everything changed. But, most crucially, I finally ended up meeting creative people. I thought ‘Oh, we speak the same language – the language of debate and creativity, empathy and discussion.’ So, at last, in my 30s, I realised, ‘These are my people, this is my community.’

E: It’s a huge change of direction to have in your 30s – did you adapt to your new life easily?

S: I really struggled with the bit of fame that I got early – I just didn’t know how to deal with it. I’d felt like a failure since I was a kid and carried that sense of failure around with me. So, even when things started to go well, I thought, ‘That’s an aberration because I’m the guy who doesn’t do well.’ It was only when I bought my flat with money I’d earned as a performer that I first thought, ‘Oh, wait – there’s now literally concrete evidence around me that I didn’t fail.’

E: Youhaven’t stopped for 20 years and had so many extraordinary roles. What’s your relationship with your work like?

S: Meera (Syal, Sanjeev’s partner) says I’m jammy – that I don’t worry about work, I just seem to get it. The thing is, I never expected it. I don’t think I’m owed it, so I basically live in a place of gratitude. It’s the feeling of gratitude that actually keeps you stable, because the contrary is the phrase ‘It’s not fair.’ Once you go down that path, it’s something you can’t correct.

E: Do you think the gratitude you feel is partly because your career started so late and that it hadn’t actually been your plan?

S: I often think about my bedroom wall when I was 14. Our flat was cold and horrible, above a launderette in Hounslow, but on the wall I had pictures of The Beatles, Elvis, Monty Python, Roger Moore, Clint Eastwood and Elvis Costello. When I think about how many of those people I’ve met and how many have become friends, I think, ‘The universe owes me nothing; I’ve been given more than I ever deserved.’

• Sanjeev will film series five of Unforgotten next year.

Good Food contributing editor Emma Freud is a journalist and broadcaster, director of Red Nose Day and a co-presenter of Radio Four’s Loose Ends.

116 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Sanjeev’s pau bhaji SERVES 6 PREP 35 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

& Series 4 of the BAFTA winning ITV crime drama Unforgotten and the Series 1-4 box set are available to buy on DVD, released internationally by BBC Studios.

Marcus Brigstocke invites Sanjeev to try new experiences, including playing table football, in his popular BBC Radio 4 podcast I’ve Never Seen Star Wars. Just search ‘Sanjeev Bhaskar‘ on BBC Sounds to listen.

2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp butter or ghee, plus 2 tbsp 1 large onion, finely chopped ½ tsp asafoetida powder ½ tsp grated ginger 1½ tsp grated garlic 1½ tsp chilli flakes ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp pau bhaji masala (available from specialist Indian shops or online) 225g mixed-colour cherry tomatoes, chopped 2 tbsp tomato purée 1 red pepper, deseeded and chopped 2 medium potatoes, boiled, cooled and coarsely mashed 170g cauliflower florets, boiled until al dente and broken into bite-size pieces 1 large handful of frozen peas, defrosted 1 large handful of frozen sweetcorn, defrosted ½ tsp garam masala 1 heaped tsp aubergine pickle handful of grated cheddar, plus extra to serve 2 tsp lemon juice handful of coriander, roughly chopped, plus a few leaves to serve brioche burger buns, split, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a large, flat pan with 1 tsp butter or ghee and fry the onion and asafoetida for 8 mins until the onions have softened and browned. Add the ginger and garlic, mix for a minute, then add the chilli flakes, turmeric and ground coriander. Mix for another minute.

2 Mix in the pau bhaji masala, tomatoes, tomato purée and 20ml hot water, then stir in the red pepper. Add the mashed potatoes, the cauliflower and another 350ml hot water. Simmer the mixture for about 5 mins.

3 Tip in the peas, sweetcorn, garam masala, aubergine pickle and 2 tbsp butter or ghee, mix well and cover for 2-3 mins. Season with salt, then mix in the cheese.

4 Stir in the lemon juice and the chopped coriander, then cover and cook for 2 mins. The ‘bhaji’ should be the consistency of a thick soup Add a little more water to loosen if needed, but not too much. Toast the buns in a hot pan, cut-side down. Fill the buns with the bhaji, more cheese and the coriander leaves.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 424 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 8g • carbs 50g • sugars 16g • fibre 6g • protein 10g • salt 0.8g

HOME COOKING SERIES

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Melissa Thompson

I’m so proud of my Pride

Photographs NURPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES, AMIT & NAROOP, DILESH SOLANKI, PHILLIP DOYLE PHOTOGRAPHY, PATRICIA NIVEN | Melissa portrait SAMER MOUKARZEL

What has being queer got to do with food anyway? Our columnist celebrates LGBTQ+

T

hroughout the year, Pride celebrations take place up and down the country.

But its foundations are firmly rooted in protest and struggle.

In June 1969, New York City police raided the city’s Stonewall Inn, having persecuted and harassed the queer community for years. This time, club-goers fought back. Days of protest followed and a movement was born.

Modern Pride celebrations prompt mixed reactions. For some, it’s a party, while others resent the commercialisation of a movement that has persecution at its core.

And, what does Pride have to do with food anyway? Well, for me, everything. Being a gay woman is as much a part of my identity as food, as both permeate every aspect of my life.

Here, I speak to leading people in the food and drink industry about what Pride means to them – away from the rainbow flags and whistles.

Pride is firmly rooted in protest and struggle

118 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

opinion

food community people making a difference in the hospitality industry

Chapati Club serves traditional Indian meals in a safe space for all members of the community

Couple Resh and Heena founded Chapati Club in 2017

If we can provide a space for just one person, that’s incredible

RESH SONCHHATLA & HEENA VARAMBHIA started Chapati Club (chapaticlub.co.uk) in 2017, an Indian restaurant that serves the food of their childhoods.

Despite neither of them having experience in running a restaurant, it’s become a hit.

Resh: ‘It wasn’t our intention to be an openly gay Indian restaurant.

‘We weren’t worried about the general public or our customers, but we thought we’d be judged by industry people.

‘The chefs didn’t understand – a woman running a restaurant, then two women owning it, then us being a couple. It was so foreign. So at first it was hidden, a bit like when we were younger. I only came out 12 years ago when I met Heena.

‘But, with our business, we realised we should just own it.

And if people don’t like it, they can do one.’

Heena: ‘The changing point was during Pride 2017, the year we opened. I’d picked up a rainbow flag and put it in a vase next to the bar.

People noticed and we started getting more gay customers.

‘If we can provide a space for just one person who has nowhere else to go, then that’s incredible.’

Resh: ‘Growing up, there was nowhere I could go where I felt comfortable. I could go to my gay friends’ houses, but nowhere openly.

‘Now, we’re really proud we’ve created that space.’

Resh and Heena’s meals are inspired by their childhood dinners

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 119

LILY WAITE founded The Queer Brewing Project in 2019 (thequeer brewingproject.com), a brewery that’s building visibility and representation for queer people in the industry. An awardwinning writer, Lily also writes about her experiences as a queer trans woman in the beer world.

‘Queer Brewing was conceived after my love and passion for the drink led me to working full-time in the beer industry. I never intended to get into brewing, and to be honest, I don’t consider myself a brewer. Running a brewery happened almost through happenstance. I wanted to use collaborations with brewers as a vehicle for activism, fundraising, and increasing visibility and representation of LGBTQ+ people.

The initial scope was to brew a collaboration a month, and see if it reached a year.

In the first year, I brewed nearly 30 beers in

five countries, and raised close to £20,000 for a number of charities.

The response kicked up such momentum that the first year immediately surpassed my hopes.

‘But then the pandemic struck.

As breweries were so focused on simply surviving, and along with a period of bad mental health and dealing with grief, I came close to winding it up. But then along came Cloudwater Brew Co [for a new collaboration]. This reinvigorated my motivation and my ideas. A year after nearly packing it in, we’re in a pretty good place.

‘What keeps me going are the responses from people who see themselves in what we do, feel recognised and represented, or have found the confidence to come out or be more open about their identity as a result of our work.

‘Pride and LGBTQ+ representation absolutely has a place in food and drink, and all other areas of culture.

How can it not? LGBTQ+ people have been involved in the production of food and drink forever, so why shouldn’t our causes have a place? Representation and visibility are important – and to a queer person unsure of their place in the world, or feeling alone, seeing something that references them could be really meaningful. But this is the means rather than the end.’

Patrick and Russell’s blog following their food and drink experiences in Dublin has grown into a full business

opinion

PATRICK HANLON & RUSSELL ALFORD founded GastroGays (gastrogays.com) in 2013, a blog dedicated to Dublin’s restaurant scene. It’s since grown into a project that encompasses food and drink writing, online cocktail masterclasses, a podcast (Chew The Fat) and their debut book, Hot Fat, which is out next year.

Russell: ‘Recently, one of the main gay bars in Dublin had homophobic graffiti scrawled at the front. Two Pride flags were burned down outside city council offices in the south of the country, and now “straight pride” flags have been put up outside shops. So, Pride is still important.

‘It’s time to reflect on the work that’s been done – especially for us in Ireland, where we had the Marriage Referendum in 2015 – and those who’ve done so much to push things forward.

‘Here, many of the post boxes are decorated with rainbows for Pride and there are secondary schools flying Pride flags. I think of 13-year-old Russell at school thinking, “God, if I get called a fag today – again – that’s my day ruined”.

‘But, imagine seeing a rainbow-flag-covered post box on your way to school and a Pride flag flying at school, and being listened to by a teacher rather than them brushing it under the carpet, as they did with us. What a long way we’ve come, with so many people for children to look up to so they can be assured that being gay is not abnormal. It’s a great thing.’

Patrick: ‘For me, Pride is still a protest. It’s about authenticity and being seen and heard.

‘Yes, it’s fun and colourful, but it’s a scream that says I exist and I’m allowed to, but it’s annoying that I still have to do this every year to remind you that I am an equal part of this world.’

Russell: ‘Our name started as a hashtag that we put at the end of tweets. It was a bit of fun and something to help friends keep a tab on what we were doing. Now it’s grown and grown.’

Patrick: ‘It wasn’t a conscious decision and it means there’s a “coming out” for us nearly every time, on every introduction and new client.

‘There isn’t any hiding who we are or what we stand for. And, with all the opportunities we do get, there are the opportunities that aren’t afforded to us because of the name. It’s been helpful, but it’s also hindered us.

‘As we’ve got to a certain level over the last few years, I think it’s brave that we have the word “gay” in the name and can’t hide. Not that I’ve got the impetus to hide, but it’s putting yourself out there in a vulnerable way.

‘I have to give us credit for sticking and persevering.’

RACHEL RUMBOL is a London chef who runs Butch Salads, a catering company. She’s also founder of Queers in Food & Beverage (queersinfoodand beverage.com), a network for LGBTQ+ people working in food.

‘A few years ago, Jay Rayner came in to review a café where my business partner Hanne and I were working.

He described the lunch offering as a selection of “butch salads”, which we found hilarious – I had really short hair, Hanne had a shaved head and we both looked quite butch. We thought, “How did he know? Did he see us in the kitchen?”

‘That’s how our name came about.

It probably isn’t the best name for a catering company, but it’s a good way of separating the wheat from the chaff. People either think it’s cool or they don’t get it. It’s quite subversive: if you’re a homophobe, don’t ask me to cater your event.

‘Pride is important. People wonder what your sexuality has to do with your identity as a chef, but I live in a London bubble and as soon as you step outside of it, you realise how heteronormative things are. It’s presumed that you’re straight and if you don’t look straight, then that’s cause for looks or questions, so it’s important for people to realise it is relevant. Food’s part of me and my queerness is too.

‘I never saw anyone who looked like me – a butch woman chef – in food media or on television. That public image is not representative of

To read more from Melissa, go to bbcgoodfood.com/writer/melissa-thompson

Rachel’s catering company, Butch Salads, creates seasonal, bespoke menus for events

Ineversaw anyonewho lookedlikeme infoodmedia orontelevision

the industry. Queers in Food & Beverage, my online network and platform, came from wanting to know more queer people in food, because it’s important to have people around you who have had similar experiences to you, who you don’t have to explain yourself to.’

&

Celebrate Pride with our showstopping rainbow cake on p102

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 121

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TO BOOK OR REQUEST A BROCHURE call 01283 742398 or to book, visit gfdriviera.co.uk Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers: All bookings will receive two free standard tickets to one of the BBC Good Food Shows** TERMS & CONDITIONS *Select departures in April have been reduced by up to £200 per person from the previously advertised price. Savings and prices vary by itinerary, departure date and cabin category. For details visit rivieratravel.co.uk/river-cruises/spring-river-cruises. Per person prices are based on two sharing a twin cabin. Single cabins and optional insurance available at a supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. **BBC Good Food Show tickets: BBC Good Food (published by Immediate Media Co. London Limited) will contact you after your holiday to arrange tickets (excluding Saturdays).

Please see BBC Good Food’s privacy policy at immediate.co.uk/privacy for details of how your personal information may be used.

122 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

opinion

Victoria Moore

My favourite wines with a spicy kick It may not sting like chilli, but you can find heat in a glass Spice and wine are not always the best of friends. Sometimes when you drink wine with chilli-rich dishes, you can barely taste the wine at all. But I can’t order drinks in an Indian I’m not going to claim that you can find a wine that will sting restaurant without thinking of my old friend and TV wine like chilli but there are flavours we describe as ‘spicy’ that pundit Joe Wadsack who once agreed to eat an exceptionally can be found in a wine glass. Often, these come from wine hot curry in front of a rolling camera. His strategy was to go that is oaked as the woody flavour can resemble some of the as fast as he could. ‘I thought if I could get the food down more woody spices – think nutmeg or mace. But sometimes really quickly, I’d be able to finish it off before the the spicy note is found in the grape itself. For instance, the pain kicked in.’ That went well until he did finish white Austrian grape grüner veltliner is often said to and a tsunami of pain hit from his capsaicin taste of white pepper. Syrah – shiraz, in Australia – receptors. Letting out a noisy howl, he begged the sometimes smells of crushed black peppercorns, waiters standing by to bring him a drink: a lassi, to be precise, because milk or yogurt is the best a similarity that scientists have proved is grounded sometimes in fact not fancy, as both syrah wines and black balm for a mouth raging under chilli’s fire. thespicy peppercorns contain an odour molecule called Alas, the waiters were too well-trained in the noteinwine art of solicitously enquiring as to whether he might rotundone (also found in oregano and marjoram), like a plain lassi or a mango lassi, and salt or sweet, isfound which imparts the flavour we recognise as peppery. to just pour gallons of the stuff straight into his Then there’s sotolon, an aroma compound found in inthe burning mouth, leaving him sweating and grape itself curries and in particular in fenugreek, the pungent screaming for his mother as they tortured him curry spice. Sotolon is also found in wines that with kindness. have aged. So, the next time someone claims their The message is clear: if you want to tame the wine smells spicy, they might actually have a very good point. burn of a chilli, the best drink is dairy. If you want to mitigate the burn with wine, then there are options, too, but they are nothing like as effective: drink sweeter and/or go for bubbles. The match @how_to_drink @planetvictoria works both ways: sweeter wines, and wines with bubbles, stand up better against chilli-spice. That’s to say, Victoria Moore is an award-winning with a sweeter wine you still get to taste the fruitiness wine columnist and author. Her which, in a dry wine, often disappears when you eat chilli. most recent book is the The Wine But what if you want to go the other way about? What if Dine Dictionary (£20, Granta). you’re looking for spicy flavours in the wine not in the food?

This month I’m drinking Tarquin’s The Seadog Navy Gin (£45, tarquinsgin.com) Made in Cornwall in a copper pot still, this is a naval strength gin that packs an alcoholic punch at 57% alcohol by volume. It has a robust, citrus and spice flavour.

Wine pairings Tesco Finest Montagne St Emilion 2019 France (£9, Tesco) A robust and juicy red from Bordeaux’s St Emilion, this is one to hunker down with in autumn.

Lovely with guinea fowl (p96).

Casanova Costa d’Oru Corsican Rosé 2020 France (£7.50, Co-op) In winter I pick chianti to drink with hearty soups like ribollita (p106), but rosé is a good fit for autumn.

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 123

Subscribers always save more SIX-BOTTLE SUMMER SHOWCASE FOR JUST £38.94 – TURN TO PAGE 44

Malbec

Each month Henry Jeffreys showcases a different grape variety, plus get a great deal on a case of summer reds

This month, we’re looking at a grape variety that, though originally from south-west France, is now most associated with Argentina. Dark, perfumed Malbec is, however, grown all over the world and makes everything from sturdy, meaty reds to lighter, more perfumed wines. It’s a major component in Bordeaux-style blends, too.

Wine Club star Sierra del Plata Malbec 2020 There’s no better place to grow Malbec than Mendoza in Argentina, where this wine is from. It’s made in a full, smooth style, bursting with blackberries and plums, with an all-important violet note and 13.5% ABV. It’s great with steak, charcuterie, veggie lasagne and hard cheeses. Find it in the case opposite.

Need to know

Tasting notes

Malbec is originally from south-west France, where it’s known as cot or auxerrois. It creates reds that are full of colour.

In fact, in the 18th century, the town of Cahors in France was famous for its ‘black’ wines.

It’s a solo star in Argentina and Cahors, but it’s also used in blends all over south-west France, Australia, Chile, North America, South Africa and New Zealand.

Growers in Argentina are increasingly heading to higher altitudes to get more delicate elegant flavours out of this robust grape.

In Argentina, Malbec has floral notes with plummy fruit and supple tannins. In Cahors, Malbec makes tannic wines with earthy flavours, but it retains the floral notes. Further north in the Loire, it can create light wines with aromas of cherries. In Bordeaux blends, it adds colour and fragrance. It takes well to oak ageing, too. Lighter Malbecs can be served quite cool to emphasise the floral flavours.

Malbec is a great barbecue wine, and Cahors varieties go brilliantly with dishes like cassoulet. Supple French and Argentine Malbecs are also surprisingly good with tuna, sweet potato stews and pasta dishes.

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, selects all of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food readers. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com.

He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now.

Awineforeverydish Ever wondered which white wine to match with your pasta? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for other wines and impress your friends. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wine-club.

124 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

weekend

Just

£5.42 a bottle, plus free delivery (usually £7.99)

FREE magnum only available for the first 150 orders (usually £26) Buy this 12-bottle case for £65, plus FREE DELIVERY (usually £7.99)

What’sinthebox?

You’ll receive two bottles of each wine in this carefully curated selection, beginning with Coco Rôtie, a multi-gold-winning Shiraz Viognier from Austraila’s RedHeads wine studio. It’s bursting with black fruit flavours and has a smooth, oaky richness after a patient slumber in barrels. Spain provides two classics in satisfying (and 100% organic) Castaño Ecológico Monastrell and brambly Folklore. Every barbecue needs good Malbec, and you’ve got a food-friendly option in Argentina’s Sierra del Plata. To finish is smoky Lucky Five from South Africa’s historic Spier Estate and Portugal’s smooth Rainha do Mar.

Start your wine adventure today Just choose an introductory case: all-whites, all-reds or mixed cases are available for £65, plus get two Dartington Crystal tumblers

(usually £15), free delivery (usually £7.99) and, for this month only, the first 150 orders will also receive a FREE magnum of Château Le Coin Bordeaux 2019 (RRP £26).

We’ll suggest new cases every 12 weeks and you can stop or pause your plan at any time.

We’re confident you’ll enjoy every bottle – or your money back!

Yourdeal ataglance  A case of red, white or mixed wines for just £5.42 a bottle, delivered every 12 weeks  Two FREE Dartington Crystal stemless glasses (usually £15)  First 150 orders will also receive a FREE magnum of Château Le Coin Bordeaux 2019 (usually £26)  Free delivery (usually £7.99)

To order your case online, go to bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/september Or, call 03300 242 855 and quote code 4751001 BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaites. New Wine Plan customers only. Must be 18 years or over. One case and two glasses per household. Free magnum only available for the first 150 orders. Free delivery with this offer (usually £7.99). Offer valid until 31 October 2021 and available while stocks last. In the unlikely event of a wine becoming unavailable, a substitute of similar style and equal or greater value will be supplied. If you are unhappy with any substitutions, Laithwaites will arrange collection at its cost. Orders will be delivered within three working days (delivery to Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands may be longer). UK addresses only, excluding Channel Islands. Visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com for full terms and conditions. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Laithwaites Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire, RG7 4SW. Future cases: every 12 weeks and at Christmas, if eligible, you will be notified of the next Wine Plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless you request otherwise. All future selections of the Season’s Favourites Wine Plan will be charged at £107.88 plus £7.99 for delivery. By joining a Wine Plan, you authorise Laithwaites to deduct such subsequent amounts from the credit or debit card that you used to pay for the introductory Wine Plan case. You can delay or stop your deliveries at any time.

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 125

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a cheque payable to YouGarden, to: OFFER GF156, YOUGARDEN, PO BOX 1468, PETERBOROUGH, PE1 9XL Terms and conditions *Order your herb collection from You Garden when using offer code GF156. Just pay postage. One herb collection per order. **P&P is £6.99 with delivery to UK mainland only. A £6 surcharge may apply to the following postcode areas: AB, BT, DD8 11, GY, HS, IM, IV, JE, KA27 28, KW, PA20 80, PH19 50, TR21 25 and ZE. Following Brexit there are a number of changes that prevent us from trading in N. Ireland. For further details please visit yougarden.com. YouGarden Ltd, Eventus House, Sunderland Road, Market Deeping, PE6 8FD. Calls cost 5p per minute plus your network provider’s access charge. Offer subject to availability and in the event that this offer is oversubscribed, we reserve the right to send suitable substitute varieties of the same or a higher value. Offer closes 31 October 2021 or whilst stocks last. Images show mature plants. Full product details and T&Cs at yougarden.com.

126 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

B O O ST YO U R

cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team THIS MONTH

Watch our skills videos at bbcgoodfood.com/video We love to see what you’re making, too: share your recipes on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood

Olia Hercules’ borsch recipe, p128

Perfect your hasselback potatoes, p130

Make African doughnuts, p134

L E V E L T NEX E N A I D K STE A ets with

ef fill e b r e d n te k o o c to Learn e 132 g a p n o e c u a s n o g a r a brandy and tar

Shake up a soul reviver cocktail, p137

& Simple steps to making a quiche, p129

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 127

PODCAST EXTRA

Olia Hercules

There are many variations of borsch – even within Ukraine.

Each region (and even places in each region) might have a special version of it. The stock base is simple to make, and creates a gorgeous base for the soup, so it’s worth taking the time to do.

SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 2 hrs EASY

For the stock 1kg fatty beef shin, cut into large chunks 1 onion, peeled and left whole 1 bay leaf For the broth 2.2kg potatoes, peeled and chopped 2 tbsp sunflower oil 1 onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, roughly grated 200g beetroot, peeled and cut into matchsticks 1 red pepper, chopped (optional) ½ x 400g can chopped tomatoes 6 prunes, pitted ½ white cabbage, shredded 400g can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed 100ml soured cream or crème fraîche, ½ bunch of chopped dill and crusty bread, to serve (optional)

1 To make the stock, put the beef, whole onion, bay leaf and 2 litres of lightly salted cold water in a large saucepan. Cook over a very low heat for 1 hr 30 mins or until the beef shin is soft and falls apart easily – this can take up to 3 hrs. Skim off the scum with a spoon from time to time. Break up any larger pieces of beef, remove the onion and discard.

128 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

& Tune in to the Rookie & Nice Podcast where you can hear Olia Hercules talking to Miriam and Nadiya about Ukrainian food – available to download from Acast, Spotify, iTunes and podcast streaming services.

2 Add the potatoes to the saucepan, season well and cook for 10-15 mins until tender. Meanwhile, heat the sunflower oil in a large, deep frying pan. Cook the chopped onion and carrot for 10-15 mins over a medium heat, stirring, until caramelised.

3 Add the beetroot and cook for around 5 mins, stirring occasionally.

Add the red pepper, if using, and cook for another 2 mins, then tip in the tomatoes and prunes, stir, then increase the heat. Boil to reduce slightly before adding to the borsch.

4 Add the cabbage and beans, and cook for 7-10 mins or until tender.

Serve with the soured cream and a scattering of dill on top, with crusty bread on the side, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (6) 651 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 6g • carbs 74g • sugars 14g • fibre 12g • protein 43g • salt 0.3g

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist LOTTIE COVELL | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

Beef shin & prune borsch

Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS | Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH

Food writer, chef and stylist Olia Hercules shares her mum’s recipe for this iconic dish

skills beginners

STEPS TO SUCCESS

QUICHE A well-made quiche is a thing of beauty – here’s how to get the best results

 Perfect the case Make sure you get the pastry right into the corners of your tart tin. Start by rolling it out, then lift it over the rolling pin and drape it over the tin.

Lift and push the pastry into the corners with the edge of your finger or an excess piece of pastry. Leave the pastry hanging over the side of the tin to be trimmed once the quiche is cooked – this will stop the pastry from shrinking too much.

After lining the tart case with pastry, always chill it in the fridge or freezer for 20 minutes before blind-baking.

W H AT I S M A C E R AT I O N ?

Maceration is a process that draws out the natural juices from fresh fruit and softens them, similar to marination.

This adds extra flavour as the fruits become sweeter, and it also softens the texture.

Try our recipe for a Victoria sponge with macerated fruit at bbcgoodfood.com/ultimatetraditional-victoria-sponge.

RTER A T S N E KITCH

fruits become sweeter, anditalso softensthe texture

 Avoid a soggy bottom As you’ll be filling the tart case with a wet mixture, you should bake it for longer than a lot of recipes tell you to. Once you’ve removed the baking beans, give the pastry at least another 10 mins until lightly golden.

If the pastry looks raw, cook it for another 5-10 mins. Holes in the pastry will cause it to leak, so make sure it’s well patched up.

 Creamy custard The ideal ratio for the custard base is two eggs for every 300ml double cream. If you use fewer eggs, it won’t set properly. Any more and it will taste more like an omelette.  Ready, set, serve A quiche is ready when it’s set with a wobble in the middle. Once baked, it’s best left for a couple of hours to cool to room temperature, then you can trim off the overhanging pastry and serve. A quiche is at its finest when it hasn’t been chilled, so serve it on the day you make it for best results.

For our quiche recipe collection, go to: bbcgoodfood.com/quiche-recipes

KIT

Citrus r e z e e u sq

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SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 129

WEEKEND PROJECT

Hasselback potatoes T

ry this Swedish style of roast potatoes for your next Sunday lunch. Hasselback means they are thinly sliced across but not all the way through to create more edges that turn golden and crisp when roasted. They take a bit longer to prepare but make a great show-off side. As well as being a delicious replacement for your usual roasties they can be served with steak, too.

Hasselback potatoes SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Use a metal skewer and insert along the back of one of the flatter sides of the potato. It should go two-thirds of the way through the potato. Put on a chopping board, with the skewered end closest to the board, and slice through until the knife meets the skewer. You can also clamp each potato between the handles of two wooden spoons, and cut through to the handles, if this is easier for you. A sharp knife will help make slices a few millimetres apart. Remove the skewer and repeat with the remaining potatoes.

2 Put the potatoes cut-side up on a shallow baking tray and drizzle over the oil. Rub the oil in with your hands to coat well, getting some in between the slices. Toss in the bashed garlic, rosemary and some seasoning. Roast for 50 mins-1 hr, basting with oil in the pan halfway through, until the potatoes are tender and crisp on top.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 394 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 1g • carbs 61g • sugars 4g • fibre 8g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g

130 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

TIPS AND TRICKS  Make sure your slices aren’t too thick – they should be thin enough to crisp up in the oven.  Always coat in a good amount of sea salt and olive oil or butter as this adds to the flavour and texture.  Try experimenting with flavourings. Different woody herbs work well, like thyme or bay. Add a pinch of hot smoked paprika for a punchy spicy take, or top with grated cheddar or parmesan for the final 5 mins of cooking.  Try making mini versions with new potatoes. Cook for around 40 mins and serve with a soured cream and chive dip.

Photographs RITA LIPSKIJA/EYEEM/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

1.5kg medium-sized floury potatoes (Maris Piper or King Edward work well) 4 tbsp vegetable oil 4 garlic cloves, bashed a few rosemary sprigs

skills confident cook

WHY I LOVE

my digital Food writer and owner of Bristol Fire School, Genevieve Taylor picks her kitchen hero

PEANUT BUTTER

AND HOT SAUCE

YES, IT WORKS!

As a barbecue expert and fire cook, I couldn’t live without my temperature probe. The most essential skill of mastering fire-cooking is learning to cook to temperature not time – that’s the internal temperature of your food rather than the temperature of the barbecue. Every fire I light behaves slightly differently and so time becomes irrelevant. Your food is ‘done when it’s done,’ and the best way to know it’s cooked and safe to eat, or just as importantly, not overcooked and dry, is to test its temperature. I wouldn’t dream of lighting my fire without one in my pocket. @genevieveeats

We all know how well peanuts and chilli work together in dishes like satay chicken, and this is a quick way to get that savoury spicy fix.

Try spreading a thick layer of peanut butter on buttered toast, crackers or crumpets, then drizzle over your favourite hot sauce. The creamy nuttiness backed by a fiery punch is instantly satisfying.

MYTH BUSTER

Microwaves E? T R U E O R FA L S R O WAV E C I M A N I D O O COOKING F ENTS I R T U N S T I E T WILL DEPLE

peanut butter

+

hot sauce

HEALTH EDITOR TRACEY RAYE SAYS: All cooking methods reduce the nutrient levels of food due to a variety of factors, such as cooking time, method and temperature.

Studies suggest that microwaves actually tend to preserve nutrients

comparatively better than boiling or frying. Some quick-cook veg, such as baby carrots, broccoli and green beans, respond well to ‘steaming’ in the microwave. Try our recipe at bbcgoodfood.com/microwavehoney-fennel-glazed-carrots.

KITCHEN HACK

Piping bags If you want to fill a piping bag ahead of time, it’s best not to snip off off the end to keep it airtight. To get your mixture closest to the tip, twist the base of the bag and swing it around in a circular motion. This way, the mixture will pack together firmly, making it easier to store as well as to pipe out later.

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 131

NEXT LEVEL

Steak diane recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph YUKI SUGIURA

FLAMBÉ WITHOUT A FLAME If you’re cooking over induction but still want the pyrotechnics of a brandy flambé, you can carefully light it with a match, lighter or kitchen blowtorch.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins MORE EFFORT

WHY

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food styling ESTHER CLARK | Styling WEI TANG

The original one-pan wonder, steak diane was invented to wow diners with tableside theatrics. The finer details of its preparation can be a point of contention among chefs who have different interpretations that combine the method with other steak hits from the past, like steak au poivre (pepper-crusted) or steak forestière (with mushrooms). We’ve kept the ingredients traditional, but we’re pan-frying the steak differently to cook it as evenly as possible. This is à la minute cooking – where everything is made ‘to order’. Like the proverbial flash in a pan, this method is ideal for showing off in front of your diners.

CRÈME DE LA CRÈME When it comes to thickening sauces, we always choose crème fraîche over double cream. It’s richer, adds more flavour and as we’re only using a few spoonfuls, the leftovers will keep for a lot longer.

W H AT T O B U Y 2 fillet steaks (about 200g each), cut from the centre of the fillet 25g butter 1 thyme sprig ½ tsp cracked black pepper 1 large or 2 small shallots, peeled and finely chopped 3 tbsp brandy 2 tsp Dijion mustard 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 200ml strong beef stock 3 tbsp crème fraîche 1 tbsp chopped tarragon (optional)

132 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

PERFECT PEPPER Some versions ask you to press lots of pepper onto the steak to form a crust. In our opinion, that’s an entirely different recipe. Here, the heat of peppercorns comes through in the sauce.

IRST ceed SAFET Y F before, pro d e é b m a fl ver wel If you’ve ne damp tea to a p e e k d n na stmas with cautio ame as Chri s e th ’t n is is es to hand. Th 50cm flam t u o b a g in e’re talk back pudding: w stand well o s , n a p e t of th ve your bursting ou othing abo n ’s re e th ure and make s h fire. t might catc cooker tha

skills next level

TAKING TURNS Generally, steak is seared on one side, then turned once and seared on the other. To cook the meat more evenly and build a better surface crust, we suggest turning the steak every minute instead.

FRESH HERBS Herbs ar e option al, but th add fres ey hness to w h a t is otherwis e a very rich dish We’ve op . ted for t arragon, which p airs well with bee f.

A CUT ABOVE As the steak is cooked so quickly, there’s no time to render down the fat. For the ultimate luxury, we’ve gone for fillet, but cheaper options include sirloin and rump trimmed of any fat. For fillet, tell your butcher that you want your steaks cut from the centre for the most even shape.

DINNER FOR TWO This is the ideal meat feast for two. If you try to fit anymore in the pan, it will become overcrowded and the steaks won’t cook as well.

HOW TO MAKE IT 1 Generously season the steaks all over with salt, then press them down slightly with the palm of your hand so they’re roughly the same thickness. Heat the butter in a heavy-based frying pan over a medium-high heat until foaming, then add the thyme so it crackles and sizzles. Add the steaks and use tongs to turn them every 1 min over the course of 6 mins (for very rare), 8 mins (rare) or 10 mins (medium). This helps build an even crust on both sides. Remove the steaks to a warm plate and leave to rest while you make the sauce.

2 Scatter the pepper over the butter and thyme already in the pan. Toast for 1 min, then stir in the shallots and cook for another minute until they start to soften. Turn the heat up to high and tilt the pan so the side is against the flame (if using a gas hob). Carefully splash in the brandy. Flambé the shallots until the flames have died down.

3 Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce.

Bubble for a minute, then pour in the stock. Bring to the boil and cook for 2 mins until reduced by half. Stir in the crème fraîche and simmer until rich and creamy. Taste and add more salt if needed. Scoop out the thyme sprig, then return the steaks and any juices to the pan, spooning the sauce over the steaks.

Sprinkle over the tarragon, if using.

Bring the steaks to the table in the pan and serve drizzled with more sauce.

PER SERVING 402 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 15g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 24g • salt 1.2g

Subscribe to and never miss an issue Pay just £5 for your first 5 issues Turn to page 44 for details *For full terms and conditions, see page 44.

E E SCEN the last SET TH done at is g in h t all the As every uld have o h s u o y nce. minute, d in adva e r a p e r nts p ything ingredie ave ever h f: e h c ing a u’ll be us Work like o y r e d r in the o up. the pan lined up t a e h u fore yo them be

next month cheese & onion pie Don’t miss our October issue, on sale 23 September

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 133

COOKBOOK CHALLENGE

Big Zuu’s Big Eats

Editor Keith Kendrick finds inspiration for leftovers and more in a new cookbook from the Dave channel’s rising star

F

& Recipe adapted from Big Zuu’s Big Eats by Big Zuu (£22, BBC Books).

Photographs by Ellis Parrinder.

eeding my teenagers is a continual process of appeasing their appetites and preferences. One week they’re locusting their way through a couple of loaves each; the next they’ve moved on to other foodstuffs, leaving me to come up with creative ways to use up stale bread (our leftovers feature on page 80 is great inspiration for this). The latest victim of their fickleness is bananas. I’d buy three bunches a week; now I watch in despair as said bananas change from green to yellow to mottled to black, like a time-lapse horror movie. I hate food waste more than anything – and our kids have tired of banana bread.

So thank goodness for Big Zuu’s Big Eats, a new BBC Books title from the rapper, songwriter and TV star – real name Zuhair Hassan. The book features recipes from his successful cookery show on the Dave channel, which he co-hosts with his friends Tubsey and Hyder. It’s packed with recipes inspired by his mum, Isatu Hamzie, who fled war-torn Sierra Leone in 1995, aged 26. But it also has twists on dishes from around the world, including the Middle East, the Caribbean and the Med. Some of my favourites are jollof rice balls with scotch bonnet sauce and Jamaican pepper shrimp.

But back to those ripe bananas – ideal for using in Big Zuu’s mum’s recipe for akara. They’re easy to make – just mash with rice flour, fry and dust with sugar – and super-sweet to eat. Light and fluffy: this is finger food at its finest. And a perfect way to get my teenagers excited about bananas again.

134 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

TRY IT YO U RS ELF Akara (African doughnuts) MAKES 12 PREP 15 mins plus 1 hr resting COOK 20 mins EASY V

4 medium ripe bananas (about 350g), mashed 130g rice flour 1.5 litres vegetable oil (if using a deep-fat fryer, follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the oil), plus 1 tbsp 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp grated nutmeg, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp tomato purée 3 tbsp caster sugar, plus extra for dusting

1 Mash the bananas in a bowl with the rice flour, then mix with the 1 tbsp vegetable oil, baking powder, nutmeg, tomato purée, a pinch of salt, the caster sugar and 80ml water. Leave to stand for 1 hr.

2 Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer to 160C or in a deep saucepan over a low-medium heat, ensuring it’s no more than two-thirds full. Lower golfball-sized scoops of batter into the hot oil. Fry for 4-5 mins until golden brown, then lift out using a slotted spoon and leave to drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper.

Dust with extra sugar and nutmeg.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 119 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 0.3g • carbs 19g • sugars 10g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.1g

skills extras

❷ ❸ ❶

TA K E YO U R PI C K

❹

Get to know goat’s cheese

Look out for more masterclasses with Good Food and the Academy of Cheese

Go to bbcgoodfood.com/ good food learn for details.

❶

Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist AGATHE GITS

Cheese photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN

Choose wisely with tips from the Academy of Cheese experts (academyofcheese.org) NEAL’S YARD CREAMERY’S RAGSTONE The goat’s cheese ‘log’, with its iconic bloomy white rind, is one of the most recognisable and widely available goat’s cheeses.

Ragstone has been made in Herefordshire for over 20 years, expertly handmade and hand-ladled. Its dense, fudgelike texture makes it delicious to devour on its own or with a side of sticky fig relish. Perfect for slicing, try enveloping in puff pastry with a sprig of thyme before baking.

Pair with: sparkling Herefordshire perry nealsyardcreamery.co.uk

❷

WHITE LAKE’S ENGLISH GOAT CURD Goat’s curd is the most versatile of cheeses for cooking with, and this example from White Lake Cheese is one of the best in show. With its melt-in-the mouth texture, it can be used to bring new life to your ‘chips and dips’ – simply swirl in some wasabi for a kick. It’s ideal for both savoury and sweet dishes; dollop some over honey-roasted carrots, whip into a soufflé or create a classic cheesecake from this clean, light and fresh cheese.

Pair with: blossom honey or pistachio nuts whitelakecheese.co.uk

❸ QUICKE’S GOAT’S MILK

CLOTHBOUND CHEESE Made by legendary cheesemakers Quicke’s in the lush pastures of Devon, this cloth-wrapped goat’s milk cheese is truly unique. Banish any preconceived ideas of goat’s cheese being acidic with this fresh, mellow, sweet and earthy cheese, with its inviting savoury aromas. Swap your traditional cow’s milk cheddar for this alternative on your next cheeseboard.

Pair with: a zesty pale ale quickes.co.uk

❹

GILLIAN CLOUGH’S HEBDEN SOFT The rich flavour of this one has been attributed by many to the quality of care that goes into rearing the 10 goats whose milk goes into making it. Lovingly made in small batches, this cheese is smooth and creamy with grassy notes. Only produced seasonally from spring to autumn, Hebden Soft is excellent in salads or enjoyed simply spread over oatcakes.

Pair with: chilled white wine thecourtyarddairy.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 135

D RIN KS CAB IN E T

Sake special Learn more about the Japanese beverage from Luke Bensley, owner of Ikigai at 1000 Trades in Birmingham, who shares his knowledge and a soul reviver cocktail. Plus, shake up something new this month with three autumnal tipples from Miriam Nice

We asked Luke Bensley, founder of Birmingham’s Japanese-inspired cocktail bar Ikigai, to help us better understand sake.

1

ARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES OF SAKE?

If you’ve tried one variety and weren’t impressed, it doesn’t mean that you won’t like a different sake – it can be aged, sparkling, flavoured, sweet, sharp, light, cloudy, clear and everything in-between. If you’re new to the world of sake and find a place that has a good selection, ask the bartender for recommendations. Or, if you’re feeling brave, dive in. If you find a sake you like, make a note of the style and flavour – this will help you choose something similar in future.

2

HOW DO I ORDER SAKE?

Traditionally, a standard serving size is called a ‘go’ (180ml) – it’s served in a tokkuri (toe-ker-ee), a traditional ceramic pitcher, with a set of choko (choh-koh) cups. The tiny cups may seem inconvenient, but they’re a ritual in the consumption of sake, as you are never to let your friend’s cup go dry. The cups force interaction between people – sake is always better enjoyed with friends.

Higher-end sake is often drunk out of wine glasses, as this lets it breathe, bringing out the more subtle flavours.

3

SHOULD SAKE BE HOT?

It’s usually only the cheaper stuff that is served hot, as heating

sake tends to round out its flavours, which makes the more inexpensive options taste better overall. But, this doesn’t mean that hot sake doesn’t have its place. When the weather outside is cold, hot sake can act as a brilliant warming drink to brace yourself against the elements, as a hot toddy or other similar hot winter tipples do.

& Luke is an award-winning bartender, drinks consultant and bar owner who has been bartending for over 10 years. He owns Ikigai at 1000 Trades, a Japanese-inspired independent cocktail bar in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. @ikigai.b1

136 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

WHY WE STILL LOVE SAKE Sake is a widely varied alcohol brewed from fermented rice. It’s a uniquely Japanese product and, as such, is still fairly rare to find.

However, with Japanese street food and spirits currently in vogue, many more venues are now offering sake.

Find more guides and sake cocktails online at bbcgoodfood.com.

Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist LOTTIE COVELL | Stylist FAYE WEARS | Recipe LUKE BENSLEY

ASK AN EXPERT

skills drinks

T RY A N E W C O C K TA I L Soul reviver cocktail For a lip-smackingly-good weekend tipple, try this sophisticated sipping cocktail made with fragrant plum sake, lemon juice and dry vermouth.

SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V

20ml plum sake 20ml dry vermouth 20ml triple sec 20ml lemon juice ice 2 dashes of absinthe 1 star anise, to garnish

1 Put a coupe or martini glass in the fridge to chill. Pour the sake, vermouth, triple sec and lemon juice into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Splash in the absinthe, then shake well for 10 seconds.

2 Strain the cocktail through a fine mesh strainer into the chilled glass and garnish with a star anise before serving.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 124 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • fibre none • protein 0.2g • salt 0.01g

tip PLUM SAKE – UMESHU Umeshu is a sake base that’s been infused with plums after brewing. It has a sweet taste with plenty of dark fruits on the nose and a refreshingly dry finish, making it a great candidate for sipping or for use in cocktails.

It can be found in Japanese food shops, drinks retailers or online.

More ideas for September Plum brandy MAKES 750ml bottle PREP 15 mins plus 3 weeks infusing EASY V

Put 350g plums, halved and destoned, in a large sterilised glass jar with 175g caster sugar, 700ml brandy, 1/2 cinnamon stick and 1 star anise. Seal and rotate the jar to help dissolve the sugar. Shake or rotate (trying not to bash the fruit) every day for a week. Once the sugar has dissolved, leave in a cool, dark place for two more weeks. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discard the fruit and spices and pour into a bottle. Will keep for two months.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 65 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • fibre none • protein none • salt none

Cassis spritz SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V

Fill a wine glass with ice, then pour in 30ml Cynar, 15ml crème de cassis and 30ml white wine. Stir with a bar spoon, then top up with soda water. Use a thyme sprig to mix the drink, then use it to garnish.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 165 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 11g • sugars 11g • fibre none • protein none • salt 0.04g

Cinnamon tea MAKES 500-600ml pot (serves 1-2) PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

Fill a large teapot with boiled water and set aside. Bring 600ml water to the boil in a pan with a cinnamon stick. Turn off the heat, add 2 tsp assam tea leaves and leave to steep for 1-2 mins. Remove the cinnamon stick. Empty the teapot and strain the tea into it. Serve with honey to sweeten, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • gluten free

& Miriam Nice is an author and illustrator. She has written over 350 recipes for BBC Good Food. @miriamjsnice

PER SERVING 14 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • fibre none • protein none • salt none

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 137

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CONTENT

INNOVATION

Group magazines editor Keith Kendrick Group managing editor Lulu Grimes Deputy magazines editor Janine Ratcliffe Food director Cassie Best Food editor, video Anna Glover Skills & shows editor Barney Desmazery Projects editor Miriam Nice Deputy food editors Esther Clark, Adam Bush Food & reviews writer Anna Lawson Recipe developer Liberty Mendez Group digital editor Lily Barclay

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 Read the recipe before starting. Basic storecupboard ingredients, like salt, aren’t included in the ingredients list.  Use standard measuring spoons for accuracy, especially for things like spices, yeast and salt.  Where possible, we use humanely reared and produced British meats, poultry and eggs, and sustainably sourced seafood.  To help avoid waste, we suggest how to use any leftovers you may have from our recipes.  Eggs carrying the British Lion mark guarantee that all hens are vaccinated against salmonella.  We try to avoid using plastic. You’ll find

Helping you to eat well Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official recommended amount an adult should consume daily. Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note RIs for total fat, saturates, sugar and salt are the maximum daily amounts).

Healthy recipes are checked to ensure they have a low amount of saturated fat, sugar and salt per 100g, equivalent to green on a traffic-light label.

On a per serving basis, Good Food require the saturated fat to be 5g or less, salt 1.5g or less and sugar, 15g or less per serving.

Low-fat recipes in Good Food are low per 100g, or 12g or less per serving.

Low-calorie recipes have 500 calories or less per main course, or 150 calories or less for a

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of calcium, iron, folate and vitamin C, and a good source of fibre and omega-3.

Balanced recipes contribute to your five-a-day,

and all components of the main meal are included in the analysis – only seasonings are exluded as ‘to serve’. Saturated fats, sugar and salt are medium per 100g, or amber on a traffic-light label.

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How we label our recipes Vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but be sure to check pack ingredients.

Freezing (❄) Can be frozen for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot.  Recipes for advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested by us.  Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions.

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This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT

SEPTEMBER 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 145

last bite

recipe CASSIE BEST photograph HAYLEY BENOIT

special

Duck & watermelon noodle salad SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY

2 duck legs 2 tsp vegetable oil 1 tsp five-spice 100g flat rice noodles (or 2 nests) ¼ small watermelon (about 250g), cut into bite-sized pieces small bunch each of mint and coriander, leaves picked 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced

Hot, cold, sweet, salty, soft, crunchy and sticky – this salad has it all. Make it for a special dinner for two

For the dressing 2 tbsp honey, plus a drizzle for roasting 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp black rice vinegar 1 tbsp sesame oil thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Put the duck legs on a baking tray and rub with the oil, five-spice and 1/2 tsp salt, and roast for 1 hr.

Meanwhile, mix the dressing ingredients in a bowl and season.

2 Remove the tray from the oven and pour any fat into a mug (save this to make fantastic roast potatoes). Spoon 1 tbsp of the dressing over each duck leg, then drizzle with a little extra honey (about 1 tsp per leg). Return to the oven for another 15 mins, brushing any sticky sauce that drips off the duck back onto the skin after 8-10 mins. Remove from the oven and leave to rest while you prepare the noodles.

3 Boil the kettle and put the noodles in a large bowl. Pour over enough hot water to cover, then leave to stand for 3-5 mins until soft. Drain and run under cold water to cool.

Shred the duck meat and skin with two forks – it should easily pull away from the bone. Toss the noodles in any sticky, fatty juices left on the tray used for the duck.

4 Arrange the noodles on a platter.

Top with the watermelon, duck, herbs and chilli, pour over the remaining dressing and toss together just before serving.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 787 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 7g • carbs 75g • sugars 35g • fibre 3g • protein 53g • salt 2.7g

in next month’s issue Embrace colder evenings with our comfort food classics, plus a vegan ginger cake

146 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE MULLIGAN | Stylist ROB MERRETT

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