D I O R . C O M - 0 2 0 717 2 017 2
CONTENTS
Regulars 51 Editor’s letter 65 Notices Behind the scenes of the issue 142 Forces for Change Labour MP Diane Abbott. Interview by Nosheen Iqbal. Portraits by Misan Harriman. Styling by Donna Wallace 154 Checklist Rediscover fashion’s rebellious side 250 Stockists
Vogue trends
“Peak practicality is having a moment as fashion’s favourites serve highperformance fleece in style”
76 Personnel style How to organise your office wardrobe 78 Decked out Introducing the raddest skater denim 81 Take it easy Laid-back midi-dresses 82 Bold comfort Snuggle up in a look-at-me fleece
AMIT ISRAELI
85 Hybrid theory Coats: come rain or come shine 86 Step change The best boots in town
Bold comfort, page 82
91 Vogue darling Actor Lou Llobell
Jewellery & watches
COVER LOOK
92 Out of the ordinary The everyday inspiration for Tiffany’s new Knot collection. By Chloe Schama Zendaya wears velvet playsuit with bow, £3,390, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. White-gold and diamond rings, price on request, Bulgari. Get the look: make-up by Lancôme. Eyes: Hypnôse L’Absolu De Noir Black Mascara and Hypnôse Eyeshadow Palette in Smokey Chic. Lips: L’Absolu Rouge Drama Matte Lipstick in Ardent Sand. Skin: Teint Idole Ultra Wear 24H Foundation. Hair by Living Proof. Curl Definer. Hair: Ursula Stephen. Make-up: Sheika Daley. Nails: Chaun Peth. Set design: Gille Mills. Styling: Law Roach. Photograph: Craig McDean
Arts & culture 96 Novel ideas Anita Seth leafs through autumn fiction that offers a fresh perspective 100 Earthy delights Artist Anicka Yi’s sensual pleasures. By Hayley Maitland
Living 105 Life & style Julia Sarr-Jamois’s monthly edit 109 Inside scoop Next-generation interiors dealers of note with an eye for vintage finds. Truffled out by Naomi Smart
Shopping special 117 Ready-to-wear What, why and where to buy the newest trends. By Donna Wallace
Archive 150 Woman’s realm Robin Muir on the Vogue debut of a model royal, October 1965
Mr Vogue 152 We’ve been expecting you Cary Joji Fukunaga, director of the latest Bond, speaks to Amel Mukhtar
Viewpoint 158 ON THE COVER Healing power Writer Clemency Burton-Hill’s moving story about her path to recovery after a brain injury
> 40 33
About Love
Tiffany.com | © 2021 T&CO.
FELICITY INGRAM; ANNIE LEIBOVITZ
CONTENTS
“Explore the season’s puffers and parkas amid Iceland’s untamed backdrops” Adventures in wonderland, page 200
Marine biology, page 170
Beauty & wellness 168 ON THE COVER Biohack your way to better health Quick and easy DIY routes to wellness. By Georgia Day 170 Director’s cut Jessica Diner explores the life aquatic 173 Case studies Collectable eyeshadow palettes. Curated by Twiggy Jalloh 174 Beauty musings Monthly must-haves, brought to you by Hannah Coates
Fashion & features 178 ON THE COVER The world according to Zendaya Actor Zendaya tells Marisa Meltzer why every day is a schoolday. Photographs by Craig McDean. Styling by Law Roach 190 A New York tale Michael Kors is celebrating 40 years of his eponymous brand, a global phenomenon born in NYC. Some city residents pay tribute. Interview by Lynn Yaeger. Photographs by Justin French. Styling by Dena Giannini
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200 Adventures in wonderland Iceland provides an other-worldly backdrop to puffers and parkas. Photographs by Annie Leibovitz. Styling by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson 220 Court favourite How 18-year-old tennis star Emma Raducanu won our hearts at Wimbledon. By Olivia Marks. Photographs by Scott Trindle. Styling by Poppy Kain 226 Up-country Your guide to embracing the pastoral side of the season. Photographs by Dan Martensen. Styling by Clare Richardson 238 Cheek by jowl Journalist Sarah Brown’s odyssey to a more youthful countenance. Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh. Styling by Phyllis Posnick 242 Campbell’s stoop Model Edie Campbell’s custom-built lakeside retreat. Ellie Pithers pays her a visit. Photographs by Simon Watson. Styling by Tabitha Simmons
Vogue asks 280 What would Kaia Gerber do? The model takes our quiz
Turn to page 172 for our fantastic subscription offer, plus free gift
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E M B R AC E YO U R L I G H T
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MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT; CRAIG McDEAN; SIMON WATSON; GETTY IMAGES
Zendaya wears silk top, from £1,150, Aliétte. Knickers, from £20, Cosabella. Tights, £38, Wolford. Right: a selection of the star’s red-carpet looks. Below: on page 242, Edie Campbell gives Vogue a tour of her new country idyll
Typically, October issues are about that classic autumnterm feeling…
evenings filled with plans, settling into a long stretch of office life, nights drawing in and the allure of weekends at home becoming ever stronger. This year feels different. It is to be expected. Uncertainty will be our companion for a while longer and the memory of – and potential for more – time cooped up inside is as yet unshaken. That said, for those who can make it out into the world, the seduction of the great outdoors – and how to dress for it – feels very real. Accordingly, this issue has a happy emphasis on roaming far and free. The first stop is Los Angeles, where Zendaya, queen of the Zoomers, grants us an audience as she prepares for a blockbuster few months in her career. Up shortly for the actor, beloved by the Hollywood elite and her 104 million (and counting) Instagram followers alike, is a key part in Dune, director Denis Villeneuve’s updated adaptation of the epic sci-fi novel, in which she will star alongside Timothée Chalamet and Javier Bardem. Then she will reprise her role as MJ in Spider-Man: No Way Home before, excitingly,
EDITOR’S LETTER
returning in her generation-defining turn as Rue in the second series of teen paean Euphoria. Not only is Zendaya a thought-leader for younger viewers, she is also one of the most adored fixtures on the contemporary red carpet. She talks style and substance on page 178. From the luxe minimalism of the Hollywood Hills to the raw, breathtaking beauty of Iceland. On page 200, photographer Annie Leibovitz and fashion editor Gabriella KarefaJohnson take us to glaciers, deserted windswept beaches and volcanos – how fabulous! – for a fantasia that mixes high wearability with more than a dash of high drama for the autumn > 54 ahead. Meanwhile, on page 226,
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EDITOR’S LETTER
model Paloma Elsesser travels to Upstate New York to embody the slow chic and peaceful calm of a perfect weekend in the country. On page 190, we head south to Manhattan, to hit the streets to photograph some of the city’s coolest couples in a Michael Kors extravaganza, while writer Lynn Yaeger speaks to the designer himself. Back on these shores, model and equestrian Edie Campbell invites us in for an exclusive look around her new Northamptonshire home, on page 242. Built from scratch, with her mother Sophie Hicks as architect, it stands between two lakes on a patch of gorgeous
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countryside, and offers easy access to her horses. It certainly feels like a dream 2021 setup. Lastly, on page 220, we meet tennis’s newest star, Emma Raducanu. After a spellbinding Wimbledon earlier this year, in which she became the first British woman to get to the fourth round during her debut in almost half a century, the charismatic teen from Kent is the name on everyone’s lips. In her first interview since the championships, she talks talent, drive and – crucially – how we need to evolve our attitudes to mental health in sport. At 18, and only at the start of her career, one thing is certain: Emma is going to travel far.
JUSTIN FRENCH; DAN MARTENSEN; SCOTT TRINDLE
Paloma Elsesser, on page 226. Right: Emma Raducanu, on page 220. Below right: one of the couples in A New York Tale, on page 190 – Danny Bowien, on left, wears jacket, £1,290. Strapless top, to order. Both Michael Kors Collection. Boots, from £170, Syro. Jewellery, his own. Sara Hiromi wears jacket, £1,290. Dress, £1,050. Both Michael Kors Collection. Red net tights, £39, Wolford. Black sheer tights, £18, Falke. Boots, from a selection, Dr Martens. Headband, from £120, Leila Jinnah. Jewellery, her own
Introducing
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SEAN THOMAS
THE GET
NOTICES
This year marks the 40th anniversary of Michael Kors’s eponymous brand. In A New York Tale, on page 190, journalist Lynn Yaeger (left) interviews him, while Justin French (below) photographs some of The Big Apple’s most talented couples in pieces from the designer’s latest collection. “I’ve always felt a special kinship with Michael,” says Yaeger. “We grew up a few towns away from each other on Long Island, and both hung out at the All American Hamburger Drive-In.”
MEET & GREET
COMPILED BY SOEY KIM. RUVEN AFANADOR; ANDREW STAPLES; SHEN WILLIAMS-COHEN; AB + DM
Step into model Edie Campbell’s lakeside home, on page 242, for a shoot styled by Tabitha Simmons. “Edie’s house is magical,” she says, “you instantly feel calm.”
Get to know the faces behind this month’s issue
Stylist Law Roach has worked with our October cover star, actor and singer Zendaya, for more than a decade. This time, he tells us, they looked to film noir, Old Hollywood and 1990s supermodels for inspiration.
Nosheen Iqbal meets history-making politician Diane Abbott, on page 142. Abbott – who was Britain’s first black woman MP – has now been in Parliament for more than 30 years and, as Iqbal discovers, has been both a moral compass for the Labour Party and a thorn in its side.
In January of last year, writer, broadcaster and young mother Clemency Burton-Hill had a brain haemorrhage that she was lucky to survive. “Just before I emerged from a long coma,” she says, “I know I chose life. I am determined to keep choosing it.” On page 158, she writes about what the near-death experience taught her.
EDWARD ENNINFUL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEPUTY EDITOR & FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR SARAH HARRIS FASHION DIRECTORS JULIA SARR-JAMOIS, POPPY KAIN MANAGING EDITOR MARK RUSSELL FEATURES DIRECTOR GILES HATTERSLEY EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH ABABIO ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR (SPECIAL PROJECTS) TIMOTHY HARRISON EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR SOEY KIM CONTRIBUTING FASHION DIRECTORS VENETIA SCOTT, KATE PHELAN FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR LAURA INGHAM STYLE DIRECTOR DENA GIANNINI FASHION & ACCESSORIES EDITOR DONNA WALLACE JEWELLERY & WATCH DIRECTOR RACHEL GARRAHAN MERCHANDISE EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD FASHION ASSISTANTS ENIOLA DARE, JESSICA GERARDI, REBECCA PURSHOUSE, HONEY SWEET ELIAS FASHION MARKET CO-ORDINATOR THALIA METALLINOU JUNIOR FASHION ASSISTANT HOLLY CHAPMAN CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS JACK BORKETT, JULIA BRENARD, BENJAMIN BRUNO, GRACE CODDINGTON, JANE HOW, JOE McKENNA, CLARE RICHARDSON, SARAH RICHARDSON, MARIE-AMELIE SAUVE CONTRIBUTING SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR AMBER VALLETTA FASHION BOOKINGS DIRECTOR ROSIE VOGEL-EADES FASHION BOOKINGS ASSISTANT JANAY BAILEY CONTRIBUTING CASTING DIRECTOR ASHLEY BROKAW SHOPPING DIRECTOR NAOMI SMART FASHION NEWS DIRECTOR OLIVIA SINGER FASHION CRITIC ANDERS CHRISTIAN MADSEN BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR JESSICA DINER BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE EDITOR LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH ACTING BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE EDITOR HANNAH COATES BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE ASSOCIATE TWIGGY JALLOH BEAUTY EDITOR-AT-LARGE PAT McGRATH CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY EDITORS KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY, FUNMI FETTO, VAL GARLAND, SAM McKNIGHT, GUIDO PALAU, EUGENE SOULEIMAN, CHARLOTTE TILBURY FEATURES EDITOR OLIVIA MARKS FEATURES ASSISTANT AMEL MUKHTAR ENTERTAINMENT DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE JILL DEMLING STYLE EDITOR GIANLUCA LONGO DESIGN DIRECTOR JAN-NICO MEYER SENIOR DESIGNER EILIDH WILLIAMSON DESIGNER PHILIP JACKSON PHOTOGRAPHIC DIRECTOR CAI LUNN SENIOR VISUALS EDITOR JAMIE SPENCE JUNIOR PICTURE ASSISTANT ANTONIO PERRICONE CHIEF SUB-EDITOR VICTORIA WILLAN DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR HOLLY BRUCE VOGUE.CO.UK EXECUTIVE DIGITAL EDITOR KERRY Mc DERMOTT SENIOR DIGITAL NEWS EDITOR ALICE NEWBOLD WEEKEND & PLANNING EDITOR HAYLEY MAITLAND AUDIENCE GROWTH MANAGER ALYSON LOWE MISS VOGUE EDITOR NAOMI PIKE STAFF WRITER SUSAN DEVANEY DIGITAL FASHION WRITER ALICE CARY NETWORK EDITOR ELLE TIMMS AUDIENCE GROWTH EXECUTIVE ELEANOR DAVIES SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR LEXXI DUFFY SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT HANNAH DALY SENIOR VIDEO PRODUCER & COMMISSIONER MINNIE J CARVER VIDEO EDITOR & POST-PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR JESSICA VINCENT DIGITAL PICTURE EDITOR & CONTENT PRODUCER PARVEEN NAROWALIA COMMERCE WRITER HUMAA HUSSAIN DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE ALEC MAXWELL CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ADWOA ABOAH, RIZ AHMED, LAURA BAILEY, SUSAN BENDER WHITFIELD, SINEAD BURKE, LAURA BURLINGTON, VASSI CHAMBERLAIN, ALEXA CHUNG, MICHAELA COEL, RONNIE COOKE NEWHOUSE, JOURDAN DUNN, TANIA FARES, ALEXANDER GILKES, AFUA HIRSCH, PARIS LEES, PATRICK MACKIE, STEVE McQUEEN, JIMMY MOFFAT, KATE MOSS, SARAH MOWER, ROBIN MUIR, DURO OLOWU, LORRAINE PASCALE, ELLIE PITHERS, HARRIET QUICK, ELIZABETH SALTZMAN, NONA SUMMERS, DANA THOMAS, EMMA WEYMOUTH, CAROL WOOLTON, HIKARI YOKOYAMA EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER JESSICA BORGES SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES EMAIL SYNDICATION@CONDENAST.CO.UK DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION & RIGHTS HARRIET WILSON
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NOW HEAR THIS If you’re going to cross one thing off your to-do list, make sure it’s never losing your AirPods again. Tapper’s necklace case will keep them safe, and won’t compromise your jewellery box.
THE 24/7 OUTFIT
BOSS MOVES Prada’s powder-blue Galleria tote is as good a reason as any to return to the office. With its timeless, versatile appeal, it is the ultimate team player.
GABRIELA HEARST
Take your cue from Gabriela Hearst: cream trousers go with anything, but look particularly good slipped under a black silk dress. Whip them off at the end of the working day and you’ve got the perfect look for dinner out. We just saved you an outfit-change commute.
Shoes, £395, Neous
NEXT STEPS
Above, from left: bag, from £1,800, Prada. AirPod necklace case, from £210, Tapper, at Flannels
For IRL meetings, turn your attention back to the longneglected bottom half of your outfit and switch out sweatpants for tailored trousers.
Redefine hot-desking with these strategies for working the new season. Photographs by Amit Israeli COURREGES
Neous’s comfortable, sleek leather slippers have enough style credibility to take you to a face-to-face meeting in a flash.
Personnel STYLE
BOTTOMS UP
BLAZER TRAIL Nothing puts in more time than a tailored blazer. Arket’s classic boxy style now comes in elevated cream leather.
THINKING CAP
Blazer, £290, Arket
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Sporting greats, such as zip-up track tops and baseball caps, can easily be slotted into your working wardrobe when paired with a smart overcoat.
A floor-sweeping, high-waisted wool skirt is not only a directional take on tailored separates, it also offers the ultimate easy elegance when paired with a pressed white T-shirt. Skirt, £450, Raey, at Matchesfashion.com
ATLEIN
THE LONG GAME
TRENDS
HAIR: RAMONA ESCHBACH. MAKE-UP: SATOKO WATANABE. NAILS: SYLVIE VACCA. PRODUCTION: WA PARIS. MODEL: LULU TENNEY. SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT. LUCA TOMBOLINI; PIXELATE.BIZ
Edited by Naomi Smart Styled by Jack Borkett
BOOK SMART Layered cardigans and an A-line skirt needn’t read librarian – mix and match patterns and prints for an offbeat take on the look. Scarf, from a selection, Nina Ricci. Blue cardigan, £580, Eudon Choi. Cardigan with orange trim, £325, Rejina Pyo. Jumpsuit, £980, Prada. Skirt, £355, Margaret Howell. Bag, £2,960, Gucci
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ROKH
ALBERTA FERRETTI CHANEL
£310, Bite Studios
Decked
OUT Skater-inspired slouchy denim does the trick – for work, play or the local half pipe
£110, Levi’s
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£920, Brunello Cucinelli
From left: look one shirt, from £640, Atlein. Poloneck, £380, Boss. Jeans, from £585, Peter Do, at Antonioli.eu. Belt, £350, Gucci. Shoes, from £690, Versace. Earrings, £270, D’heygere. Look two blazer, £1,999, Raf Simons. Vest, £89, Boss. Jeans, from £585, Peter Do, at Antonioli. eu. Trainers, £80, Adidas. Look three sleeves with attached gloves, from £765, sold as part of a sweater. Jeans, from £585. Both Peter Do, at Antonioli.eu. Bustier, £475, Knwls, at Ssense.com. Shoes, £660, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Earrings, price on request, Panconesi
AMIT ISRAELI; ALBERTO MADDALONI/IDI.SHOW; PIXELATE.BIZ
TRENDS
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TRENDS
Dress, from £1,590, Ellery. Boots, £775, Maison Margiela. Socks, £18, Falke. Earring, £330, sold as a pair, D’heygere. Ring, from £2,050, Kim Mee Hye
Dress DOWN
Take it EASY
From top: hat, £69, Johnstons of Elgin. Boots, £595, Malone Souliers. Earrings, £90, Pandora. Tote, £345, Russell & Bromley
Make the most of your weekend wardrobe with a relaxed, do-itall midi-dress
AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
Dresses: from far left, £2,300, Khaite. £385, Vince. £850, Molly Goddard. From £330, Ulla Johnson
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Bold COMFORT Peak practicality is having a moment as fashion’s favourites serve highperformance fleece in style
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Jacket, £3,800, Louis Vuitton & Fornasetti. Top, £550. Trousers, £1,200. Both Louis Vuitton
TRENDS Left, from top: £160, Stüssy, at Goodhood. £626, Chopova Lowena, at Dover Street Market. Below: £178, Palace. Right: £1,600, Loewe
“Reworked by everyone from Louis Vuitton to Loewe, this is loungewear-goes-luxe” NAOMI SMART, SHOPPING DIRECTOR
Hoodie, £360, Aries. Beige hat, £560, Barrie. Green hat, £50, Ganni
AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
WEAR
with
Clockwise from top: belt bag, £1,740, Gucci. Lipstick holder necklace, £1,610, Chanel. Gloves, £1,200, Prada. Flask, £5,400, Hermès. Trainers, £110, New Balance
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CHLOE
SACAI
TRENDS
Hybrid THEORY Whatever the weather, the new outerwear has you covered
B
Below, from left: £2,650, Maison Margiela, at Matchesfashion.com. From £1,160, Rokh, at Shopbop.com. £2,990, Alexander McQueen, at Matchesfashion.com. £1,485, Longchamp
AMIT ISRAELI; FILIPPO FIOR/IMAXTREE.COM; PIXELATE.BIZ
Reversible coat, £2,715. Skirt, £1,025. Gloves, £115. All Max Mara. Scarf, £415, Frant Isaksson. Mules, £350, Rejina Pyo
ritain isn’t a place renowned for predictable weather. Lucky, then, that designers are making our lives easier with an array of hybrid outerwear. From Max Mara’s reversible 70th-anniversary edition of its teddy coat to Longchamp’s leather and gaberdine trench, you need never panic about the sudden onset of rain again. Olivia Singer
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TRENDS THE WALKING BOOT
PHILOSOPHY BY LORENZO SERAFINI
The past 18 months have taught us the benefits of the great outdoors. It’s clearly filtered into fashion.
Top: £860, Jil Sander by Lucie & Luke Meier, at Matchesfashion.com. Above, from left: £420, Boss. £805, Ralph Lauren Collection
Clockwise from left: £1,200, Hermès. £560, Bottega Veneta. £325, Russell & Bromley. £690, Celine by Hedi Slimane
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GUCCI
From far left: £1,190, Fendi. £1,420, Louis Vuitton. Right: £645, Dear Frances
THE RIDING BOOT Polished and severe, they’ll have you looking whip-smart.
Step change From equestrian knee-highs to hiking styles, here is your seasonal directory of the best boots around
AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
Dress, from £3,080, The Row. Boots, £1,190, Miu Miu. Socks, £14.50, Pantherella. Ear cuff, £255, Alan Crocetti
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TRENDS
THE CITY WELLY
Sweater, £1,690. Shirt, £890. Skirt, £980. All Valentino. Boots, £1,100, Valentino Garavani. Ear cuff, from £335, Charlotte Chesnais. Hoop earrings, price on request, Panconesi
The trusty wet-weather staple has had a highfashion upgrade.
£750, Bottega Veneta
£930, Celine by Hedi Slimane
£129, Holland Cooper
£1,545, The Row
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AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
£850, Jimmy Choo
“YOU JUST CAN’T let fear get in the way.” That is Jourdan Dunn’s takeaway from her many, many years as a model and her main piece of advice to all those starting out. In a fun and thought-provoking Vogue Visionaries class, in partnership with YouTube, 31-year-old Dunn takes us through the highs and lows of her time in the fashion industry, from her early rejections to the headline-grabbing catwalk moments that defined her career. Following stellar tutorials from the likes of novelist Bernardine Evaristo, singer Celeste, hairstylist Sam McKnight, actor Naomi Scott and fashion designer Alexa Chung, Dunn shares everything she’s learnt from her career as one of the world’s most sought-after models. She demonstrates her three perfect poses, offers advice on getting your portfolio noticed by agents, gives her number one tip for good skin and, above all, shares how important knowing your self-worth is for success. “Giving up is the easy option,” she says. After all, “What’s the worst they can say?” n Watch every Vogue Visionaries class for free at British Vogue’s YouTube Channel. For more information and updates on new releases, sign up at Vogue.uk/visionaries
MODELLING in partnership with
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
Four decades of STYLE Carolina Herrera is celebrating 40 years with a fabulous capsule that is as vibrant as her first IT’S BEEN 40 YEARS
since Carolina Herrera stormed on to the New York fashion scene with a Metropolitan Club show to remember. The Studio 54 regular, who brightened up society pages alongside the likes of Bianca Jagger, channelled her knack for elegant dressing into a womenswear brand that was catnip for Manhattanites. Herrera’s personal uniform – a fresh white shirt tucked into a voluminous skirt – became an exemplar of everything the house stood for: class and refinement, but always with a dash of playfulness. Herrera broke glass ceilings when she founded her label at the age of 40, and now her successor Wes Gordon is paving the way for another four decades of Carolina Herrera style. To celebrate the anniversary of the brand’s founding, Gordon is designing a special Ruby collection in honour of his predecessor. Encompassing the alegría de vivir, or joy of living, that Carolina Herrera has always been known for, the capsule features a sweeping paillette gown, a Swarovski embellished Good Girl fragrance infused with signature notes of jasmine, and a similarly designed customised lipstick, intended to hold the iconic Herrera Red 310 shade. Symbolising the house’s dedication to fabulousness – and also including the Matryoshka tote and Metropolitan Insignia evening clutch – the Ruby capsule shows how the
quintessential glamour of the Carolina Herrera world is as strong as ever. It’s no coincidence, then, that the collection – alongside the brand’s range of special customisable make-up and best-selling perfumes (Good Girl is a top 10 feminine fragrance in the UK) – is launching exclusively at Harrods in September, just in time for the party season. After all, Carolina Herrera is and will always be a fashion and beauty leader, with female empowerment at its core. n
Carolina Herrera at work in her atelier
VOGUE DARLING
“My go-to beauty products are The Ordinary 100% Organic ColdPressed Rose Hip Seed Oil [£9], The Body Shop Brow & Lash Gel [£10] and my Muji eyelash curler [£7].”
“I like a good local venue. Satan’s Whiskers is a Bethnal Green cocktail bar that looks like an abandoned building.”
“Imbue Coil Awakening Sulphate Free Cream Cleanser [£9] is a beauty trick I learnt on set. It has changed my hair.”
“My family goes to a small fishing village in Almería every summer. Some of my favourite places to be are along Spain’s south coast.”
CHANEL A/W ’21
CHANEL RESORT ’22
HAIR: SARAH JO PALMER. MAKE-UP: THOMASIN WAITE. NAILS: MICHELLE CLASS. SET DESIGN: JOANNA GOODMAN. PRODUCTION: SIAN PARRY-LEWIS. SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT. LUIS DAFOS/GETTY IMAGES; STEVEN JOYCE; LAUREN MACCABEE; CARLOS SOMONTE/PARTICIPANT MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK; MATCHESFASHION.COM; PIXELATE.BIZ
“I’d love a vintage Chanel suit. I’d wear it with nothing underneath and slightly baggy.”
“Alfonso Cuarón’s Roma is so special, and the most gorgeous piece of art I’ve seen. I wish I could watch it for the first time again.”
Lou Llobell
“During lockdown, I wanted to support black-owned businesses and found Our Lovely Goods. Its One Evening candle [£20] is their best-smelling.” Lou wears cotton jacket and wrap skirt, from a selection, Proenza Schouler. Ring, £600, as part of set, Charlotte Chesnais. Photograph: Juliette Cassidy. Styling: Eniola Dare
Boots, £720, Maison Margiela
“I listened to Celeste every time I had a serious scene. She always got me in the mood for my character.”
“Currently on my shopping list? Margiela’s black Tabi boots and a Jacquemus handbag.”
Bag, £480, Jacquemus
“I often use the cute big-eyed emoji – it covers a lot of emotions.”
“Every year for my birthday I go to a new restaurant. This year, I’m going to Kol – a MexicanBritish fusion restaurant.”
“Comedy, action, indie… I’m dying to do it all,” grins Lou Llobell. The 26-year-old – who was born to a Spanish father and Zimbabwean mother, and grew up in Spain and South Africa before moving to Britain to pursue acting – made her debut in this year’s sci-fi hit Voyagers, for which she was cast shortly after graduating with a master’s degree from the Drama Centre London. This month, she appears in Apple TV’s Foundation – an epic television adaptation of writer and professor Isaac Asimov’s trilogy that many sci-fi fans have been waiting decades for. Llobell plays Gaal, a gifted mathematician, who was written as a white male in the novels but has been reimagined for the screen. “She’s a young woman in a position where she’s not in control, but finds a way to take control. Someone we can all relate to,” says Llobell. “She’s from a rural planet and moves to the big city to chase her dreams – doe-eyed, where everything is shiny and new to her,” she says. “A bit like how I feel.” Soey Kim 91
White-gold and diamond earrings, £5,750. White-gold, diamond and tsavorite bracelet, price on request. Both Tiffany. Jacket, £4,200. Shirt, £2,800. Both Louis Vuitton. Hair: Alfie Sackett. Make-up: Lucy Burt. Nails: Chisato Yamamoto. Digital artwork: Grain Post Production. Model: Alex Andrews
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JEWELLERY
Out of the ORDINARY With its latest Knot collection, Tiffany turns everyday elements of the New York City landscape into art, says Chloe Schama. Photographs: Ben Weller. Jewellery director: Rachel Garrahan. Styling: Poppy Kain
W
hen Alexandre Arnault moved to New York in the January of 2021, it was a very different place from the one he’d grown up visiting. The city, of course, was in the throes of the pandemic’s winter surge – muted streets, shuttered theatres, abandoned parks. But the emptiness gave the 29-year-old LVMH scion a chance to see the urban landscape anew, and to absorb a little on-the-ground inspiration – which he promptly funnelled into his new role as executive vice president of product and communications at Tiffany (LVMH had bought the brand that same month). It was an essential re-education, even for someone familiar with the east-coast metropolis. “If you were to ask anyone in the world to name three New York brands,” he says, “probably the first one that comes to mind would be Tiffany.” Inspiration struck, however, not among the marble edifices of Fifth Avenue, but from a more humble feature of The Big Apple’s architecture: the chain-link. The brand’s new Knot collection, which launches this month, does not, however, resemble the fencing around a vacant lot. These are necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings fashioned from yellow and rose gold, some lined with pavé diamonds. There is also a special-edition white-gold bracelet – produced in a one-time collaboration with the artist Daniel Arsham – adorned with diamonds and tsavorite, a rare green gem discovered in Tanzania and Kenya, and
introduced to the world by Tiffany in 1974. it adopted by the baseball team. When Arsham Despite its refinement, though, the collection went into the Tiffany archive at the outset of offers an edginess true to the spirit of both the the project, he was struck by the number of city and the brand. (Sure, Holly Golightly first items that were conceived with function and gazes into Tiffany’s windows in a pavement- durability in mind: a custom key, for instance, skimming ball gown, but don’t forget she’s also that also served as a bottle opener. “It was > sipping a deli coffee pulled from a throwaway paper bag.) And with their deftly hidden clasps, the bracelets mirror the structural marvels of the city. “If you hold the products in your hand,” Arnault says, “they are really engineering beauties.” Tiffany has, as Arsham reminds me when we speak, always had one eye on elevating quotidian design. (I think of my children’s silver Tiffany baby spoons tucked away in my cutlery drawer, the perfect size to deliver mushy peas or mashed potatoes.) He is wearing a New York Yankees cap. The famous Artist Daniel Arsham interlocking N and Y logo with the bronze box he was, he explains, originally has created to house the limited-edition designed by Tiffany as Tiffany tsavorite bracelet. part of a tribute to an NYC Photograph: Zander Taketomo police officer shot in the line of duty, only later was 93
JEWELLERY
Gold and diamond earrings, £4,300. Gold and diamond necklace, £30,100. Both Tiffany. Asymmetricsleeve sweater, £740, Celine by Hedi Slimane. For stockists, all pages, see Vogue Information
a kind of luxury that was about taste more than price,” he says. Arsham also wanted to riff on the iconic robin’s-egg-coloured Tiffany box to create something that could, in theory, be used for purposes beyond its initial intent. The resulting container, one of only 49 that will be produced – and the home to the limitededition tsavorite bracelet – is a bronze sculpture that reimagines the jewellery’s packaging as part of Arsham’s Future Archaeological series, a long-standing project that toys with concepts of time, modernity and antiquity. A little corroded, a little scarred, the boxes (which are themselves housed in containers that emulate art-packing crates) 94
seem beaten up by weather and wear, as though they were unearthed from Atlantis or the ashes of Pompeii. “The idea of something both decaying and crystallising, of backward and forward motion, at the same time is appealing to me,” Arsham says. “It’s an interesting way to reiterate the idea that our products are eternal,” Arnault adds. “The more patina they have, the more cachet, the more stories to tell.” Of course, the collaboration continues another kind of story as well, since Tiffany has a long history of collaborating with New York artists, from Andy Warhol to Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg. And, as Arnault says, “Daniel is the essence of 21st-century New York art.”
The precise chemical wash that Arsham applied to the boxes to bring about the look of accelerated ageing is actually a special mixture called “Tiffany blue”, though the coincidence is a little beside the point since Arsham is colour-blind and, as he tells me, “It’s debatable if the Tiffany blue that I see is the same one the world sees.” Nonetheless, there is a certain serendipity in the convergence of Arsham’s approach with Arnault’s desire to honour the past of the 184-year-old company while simultaneously continuing to push it forward. “Jewellery can be a time capsule,” Arsham says – something that contains the essence of a moment, but is made to last. n
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
“It’s an interesting way to reiterate the idea that our products are eternal,” says Alexandre Arnault
ARTS & CULTURE MATRIX
by Lauren Groff
The world of 12th-century nuns is brought to life in this evocative novel, in which the rebellious Marie de France is cast from courtly life and sent to England to work as the prioress of an abbey. Utterly absorbing, Groff shows how her protagonist’s fearless spirit transforms the world around her. Published on 23 September (Hutchinson Heinemann, £13)
BURNTCOAT
by Sarah Hall
“Those who tell stories survive,” begins this atmospheric novel, which multi-prize-winning author Sarah Hall started on the first day of lockdown in March 2020. As celebrated sculptor Edith Harkness, who is at the heart of this beguiling book, confronts her final days, Hall writes in exquisite prose about desire and death in the midst of a national crisis. Published on 7 October (Faber, £13)
HARLEM SHUFFLE
by Colson Whitehead
Though he has won the Pulitzer Prize twice, this blistering love letter to Harlem is so powerful it may just win Colson Whitehead a third. Set in the early ’60s, it follows Ray Carney, a furniture salesman-turned-crook. A scorching portrayal of race and power. Published on 14 September (Fleet, £17)
NOVEL IDEAS
Autumn’s most original reads. Chosen by Anita Sethi PEACES
by Helen Oyeyemi
“I many times thought peace had come/When peace was far away,” wrote Emily Dickinson in a poem that forms the epigraph to this magical novel, in which new couple Otto and Xavier Shin and their pet mongoose embark on a mysterious train journey. The author of Gingerbread takes us on a wild ride, exploring desire, identity and how to find order in a turbulent world. Published on 4 November (Faber, £15)
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CROSSROADS
by Jonathan Franzen
In this, the first of a planned trilogy, the foremost chronicler of American family life brings us the unsettled, Chicago-based Hildebrandt clan, and tackles the themes he writes best: the power of familial dynamics and how to break free of them. Published on 5 October (4th Estate, £20) n
Earthy delights Art, science and the senses collide in the work of Anicka Yi, to unforgettable effect. By Hayley Maitland. Photographs by Andrew Jacobs. Styling by Patrick Mackie
I
n the past 10 years, Anicka Yi has injected live snails with oxytocin, displayed tempura-fried blossoms inside giant plastic “bubbles”, smeared gallery walls with butter (then allowed it to go rancid), and exhibited a heady concoction made up – among other things – of powdered Teva sandals, antidepressants, palm-tree essence, sea lice and a mobile-phone signal jammer. So, when she uses the word “radical” to describe the Turbine Hall opening in 2000, it carries real weight. “Not that anyone invited me to be part of the conversation back then, but putting art in what is basically a giant factory – it felt revolutionary to me,” the South Korea-born, America-raised artist says, recalling her first visit to Tate Modern. “Art can really breathe in a space like that.”
Silk-crêpe dress, £2,150, Balenciaga. Leather boots, £675, Jimmy Choo. Jewellery, Anicka’s own. Hair: Eric Williams. Make-up: Ai Yokomizo. Production: artProduction. Digital artwork: Escape Hatch Studio
Today, she’s perched in the light-filled sitting room of a rented barn in New York’s Hudson River Valley, mismatched pearl earrings and a pair of tortoiseshell Caddis glasses emphasising her delicate features. Occasionally, she fields a text from her Bushwick studio – her only fixed address after giving up her home in Long Island City during the pandemic. Some two decades after her first revelatory visit, the 50-year-old conceptual artist will transform Tate Modern’s vast central atrium this October for its prestigious Hyundai Commission. “It’s funny because I’ve always struggled with the identity of ‘artist’, partly because I’ve never fit the conventional definition of one,” she says. “But the level of discretion and gravity around this job – it’s like being anointed.”
ARTS & CULTURE Leather jacket, £1,495. Wool sweater, £695. Cotton shirt, £395. Tutu skirt, £595. All Simone Rocha. Boots and jewellery, as before. For stockists, see Vogue Information
“Scent engages a different level of our consciousness and it reminds us that we’re part of the natural world”
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT. DAVID HEALD/SOLOMON R GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION; RENATO GHIAZZA; ANICKA YI/47 CANAL, NEW YORK/GLADSTONE GALLERY, NEW YORK AND BRUSSELS
Above: blown-glass works-in-progress by Anicka Yi. Below, from left: the artist’s 2019 Biologizing the Machine (tentacular trouble); a detail from Lifestyle Wars (2017)
Even a passing glance at Yi’s multisensory oeuvre will be enough to convince anyone that she’s well-equipped for the gig. Comprising a genre-defying amalgamation of biology, philosophy and technology, her works are known for their sensual qualities – particularly their tactical deployment of fragrance. Take her 2015 exhibition at The Kitchen in New York, for which she had a hundred female subjects cotton-swab themselves, then tasked an MIT bioengineer with synthesising the DNA collected from their mouths, armpits and vaginas into one bacterium. The finished piece, named Grabbing at Newer Vegetables after a line from a John Ashbery poem, consisted of a glowing agar slab on which the bacteria flourished – filling the room with a peculiar, corporal scent that left one male visitor gagging, much to her delight. “Scent engages a different level of our consciousness, and it reminds us that we’re part of the natural world, which is a source of deep, deep trauma for a lot of people,” she explains of her interest in creating olfactory works. “We’ve been taught to worship cleanliness and odourlessness. Smells remind us that the alleged distinction between humans and animals, plants, fungi and bacteria is a myth.” The same logic gives her a more philosophical approach to Covid-19 than most. “Of course, there’s no denying the brutality of the pandemic,” she says, “but maybe rather than a hysterical rejection of the virus, there’s a better way forward. Anthropocentrism is a dangerous fallacy, and it’s a self-centred way of approaching life. This is our collective opportunity to zoom out again, and realise we’re part of a symbiotic planetary body.” Perhaps one reason for Yi’s unique perspective? Her less traditional path. As she would have it, she “came into [the art world] sideways”, quitting a film theory degree at UCLA and eventually working as
a bookkeeper for other creatives in downtown Manhattan. It was only at the age of 35 that she started considering how to “externalise a lot of the knotted narratives” that she felt she had been carrying around inside her since birth. “I just had these ideas that I felt I had to pursue, and I would be by myself at like 2am, frantically writing questions on message boards for NYU students about chemistry,” she says with a laugh. A watershed moment came after she won a residency at the MIT Center for Art, Science & Technology in the mid-2010s, but it’s her 2016 Hugo Boss Prize that put her on the fashion world’s radar. For her resulting installation at the Guggenheim, she collaborated with a team of molecular biologists to develop a perfumed artwork, Immigrant Caucus, using compounds lifted from Asian-American women and carpenter ants. A few years later, she made headlines for suspending luminescent chrysalis-shaped pods made out of kelp at the 2019 Venice Biennale, where she also managed to control a patch of Venetian soil’s microbiome using specially developed AI. What sort of chemistry experiments, then, does she have in store for the Tate? “I’ve essentially built a world in the Turbine Hall,” she enthuses, stressing that she’s been working on the exhibition for nearly two years due to the pandemic. “It’s more than an art project, really. It’s something else altogether.” While the precise nature of the installation has to be kept under wraps, she is clear that it will touch on both the “industrial heritage of London as a city and particularly the Turbine Hall”, as well as being “really charged with the past 18 months of history”. “Ultimately, nothing looks the same to us now as it did before,” she says. And, for Yi, that can only be a good thing. n Hyundai Commission: Anicka Yi is at Tate Modern, SE1, from 12 October 101
armanibeauty.co.uk Cate Blanchett
LIVING “Right now, one of my go-to places is Croydon Candles. Fabulously coloured tapers are a clever way to change up your decor.” Candles, £15 each, Croydon Candles
“The headscarf is one of my all-time favourite looks, and a hugely undervalued wardrobe staple. I’ll take mine in the new Versace monogram, La Greca.” Silk scarf, from £190, Versace
“Some days, only a massive bag will do. I love this scarlet statement piece from Khaite, Catherine Holstein’s label.” Patent-leather tote, £1,750, Khaite
“The first black woman to shoot a British Vogue cover, Nadine Ijewere’s photography draws on her Nigerian and Jamaican roots, and her experiences as a young woman of colour in south-east London. I’m excited for this month’s release of her debut book.” Nadine Ijewere by Nadine Ijewere (Prestel, £40)
LIFE & STYLE The pick of autumn’s house and wardrobe crop. Edited by Julia Sarr-Jamois
NADINE IJEWERE; PIXELATE.BIZ
“Dreem Distillery’s
night drops are infused with potent, broad-spectrum CBD. Relaxing and sleepinducing for those nights when counting sheep doesn’t cut it.” Dreem Distillery Night Drops, £160
“I’m not sure if this
Salvatore Ferragamo coat
is parakeet, shamrock or fern green, but whatever it is, it’s the perfect flash of colour for those grey autumn days.” Leather coat, £3,600, Salvatore Ferragamo “Is there anything better than the timeless perfection of the Air Jordan? This season, I’m adding an all-white pair to my Nike collection.” Hi-tops, £110, Nike
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HOME EMPORIUM ARCHIVE_SDG
LIVING
INSIDE SCOOP Meet the young interiors dealers with a great eye for vintage finds. By Naomi Smart
JERMAINE GALLACHER
OLLIE GROVE; INDIA HOBSON
WHO Jermaine Gallacher has been instilling his punk energy into wheeling and dealing offbeat objects and furniture since his days at Camberwell College of Arts. WHERE TO FIND HIM Joining the early risers at Ardingly Antiques Fair, or at his showroom and bar attached to the Lant Street Wine merchants in south London’s Borough. Serving as a gallery space and shop for new design talent and vintage finds, the place is a melting pot for the capital’s design-loving underground. WHAT TO EXPECT The unexpected. Find everything from postmodernist lamps to kinky chairs, and his own line of tables and candlesticks crafted in his signature zigzags. As he says, “I source what I like the look of. I’m not interested in names.” What’s more, Gallacher also takes interior design commissions, should you > be looking for a bigger overhaul. Jermainegallacher.com
Above: vase, £450. Right: chair, £800. Far right: shell, £500. All from a selection, Jermaine Gallacher
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MONUMENT WHO Friends Leah Forsyth-Steel and Victoria Spicer joined forces in November 2020, leaving behind careers in museum curation and set design respectively to turn their collecting impulses into Monument. How do they start their sourcing process? “We look for pieces that we believe can stand alone. That are monumental in their own right.” USP “We’re a duo, so you’ll see a lot of juxtaposition within our curation – timeless stone sculptures next to mid-century studio pottery adorning a 1980s marble table. We like to re-contextualise and present our collection as simply that.” The pair are also inspired by the dealing community at large. “There is a lot of support for each other and also purchasing from each other – we’re all collectors, after all.” FUTURE PLANS Monument’s own product line launching in 2022, and a showroom to invite people to browse. Monumentstore.co.uk
Sculpture, £130, from a selection, Monument
Coffee table, £2,600. Left: sculptural table, £2,100. Both from a selection, AU Anna Unwin
AU ANNA UNWIN WHO Anna Unwin worked as an interiors stylist for a magazine and sourced and styled for private clients before launching AU Anna Unwin in 2019. Based in Cambridgeshire, she occasionally pops up with temporary stores connecting customers IRL with her pared-back and timeless aesthetic. USP If you love marble and travertine, look no further – Unwin is an expert in both. She also hunts out the most elegant 1970s dining and coffee tables, and is a go-to for restoring sofas and chairs in elegant cream bouclé. BEST FIND TO DATE “Without a doubt, it was a Carlo Scarpa dining table. This proved extremely hard to let go of, but at least it went to a fabulous home in LA.” DESIGN HEROES “John Pawson and Axel Vervoordt. Both have a huge appreciation of form and function. I’d also love to own an Angelo Mangiarotti marble dining table – it has such refined shape.” Annaunwin.com
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Dining chair, £600, from a selection, AU Anna Unwin
“We look for pieces that are monumental in their own right”
LIVING Right: artwork, £520. Lamp, price on request. Bookcase, £760. All from a selection, Max Keys
MAX KEYS WHO Max Keys first started experimenting with vintage clothes selling at local markets near his home town of Worthing. Now based between London and Paris, his offering spans furniture, art, lighting and accessories. KNOWN FOR The king of the “product drop”, his Instagram-selling formula has earned him an obsessive audience poised to slide into his DMs to purchase. Drip-feeding teaser Stories of a piece of the day means most finds sell within minutes of their 6pm on-sale slot. DESIGN HEROES “Rei Kawakubo, I’m still longing to find some of her furniture, alongside Maria Pergay and TH Robsjohn-Gibbings.” DREAM FIND “A chain lamp by Franz West, anything by Carlo Bugatti, or a sheep by François-Xavier Lalanne.” Max-keys.com
LILY BROWN; AGNES LLOYD-PLATT; @TIMYOUNGPHOTOGRAPHER; TOBY ZIFF
Right: lamp, £225. Below: candlestick, £350, sold as a pair. Candle, £22, sold as a pair. All from a selection, Mantel
MANTEL WHO Based between south-east London and Brighton, Sadie Perry launched Mantel last August while still an interiors and fashion trend forecaster. USP Homing in on a particular focal point of the home, the mantelpiece or shelf, say, Mantel’s visuals not only offer inspiration on curating, but context to the pieces she sells. AESTHETIC A calming palette of metals, hand-carved woods and heavy wrought-iron anchor Mantel’s offering. BEST FIND TO DATE A restored pair of silver-plated Guido Niest ribbon candlesticks (right) that were abandoned in an attic. WHAT WE’RE BUYING Perry’s design collaboration of ceramics, candles and wall hangings designed with Terra in Mexico support local Oaxacan artisans – we’re stocking up on the black-and> white candles (right) and clay vases. Shopmantel.co.uk
A calming palette of metals, handcarved woods and heavy wroughtiron anchor Mantel’s offering 111
The List OUR INDISPENSABLE ONLINE GUIDE TO THE DESIGN WORLD Featuring the best interior designers, architects, landscape gardeners and artisanal suppliers
V I S I T U S AT
MICHAEL SINCLAIR
PAUL MASSEY
th e li s t .h ous e a ndgard e n .c om
LIVING
Below: lamp, £390, from a selection, Oswalde
OSWALDE WHO Dover Street Market alumnus Jenna Fletcher burst on to our IG feeds mid-lockdown with Oswalde – a selection of rainbow-hued, mostly Italian plastic pieces from the 1960s and ’70s (think Joe Colombo Boby trolleys and Giancarlo Piretti for Castelli Plia chairs). WHAT TO EXPECT Ask her to consult on your furnishings, or stay at her East Sussex sea-view rental (decked out in some of her most-treasured finds). Plus future cult classics, such as the LM Stool (far right) and Selah Lamp (above) from Nigeria-based Nmbello Studio. FUTURE PLANS “A very Capricorn list,” Fletcher says. “A second guest house, retail residencies, establishing an organic farm and hoping to open a café. Perhaps a clothing archive, too? The list is never-ending.” Instagram.com/oswalde.shop
Below, from left: vase, £350. Cabinet, £850. Coffee table, £545. All from a selection, M Kardana
M KARDANA WHO Mario Kardana grew up going to auctions with his father. The hoarding bug stuck and, fourand-a-half years ago, he left his graphic-design job to pursue unique 20th-century objects. WHERE TO FIND HIM Building up a following and fan base from Instagram has enabled Kardana to open an M Kardana store off the back of his online successes. Head to Hackney Road to see and touch the most special pieces in person. WOULD LOVE TO OWN Anything by Armand-Albert Rateau.
TOBY ZIFF
INSPIRATIONS “I’m a big fan of Ron Arad, I love his use of materials and quite radical approach to design, and Barbara Hepworth for the organic and abstract forms in her work.” Mkardana.com n
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VERY MA RO I TOJE ,VER Y SA N DE RSON . SA ND ER SO N.SA NDERSO NDESI GN G ROU P. COM @S AND ERSON1860
SHOPPING SPECIAL Sponsored by
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READYTO-WEAR Your guide to the latest trends and where to buy them Edited by Donna Wallace
WWW.THOMASSABO.COM
SHOPPING special
1 SPORTMAX
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LEG ROOM Above, from top: bag, £585, APC. Trousers, £35, H&M. Jacket, £550, Rejina Pyo
Poloneck, £25, Uniqlo. Above, from left: trousers, £36, Mango. Shirtdress, £340, Victoria Victoria Beckham. Earring, £39, Thomas Sabo
Four ways to wear flares – from joyously retro to slick and neat EDITORÕS PICK
3
COURREGES
Necklace, £170, Oroton. Clockwise from above: waistcoat, £55, & Other Stories. Trousers, £138, Reiss. Sandals, £225, Russell & Bromley
Bag, £425, Manu Atelier. Above: shirt, £199, Holland Cooper. Right: trousers, £209, Sandro
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EDITOR’S PICK
EXCESS BAGGAGE Regardless of colour, form or finish, when it comes to a carryall, go big or go home
PIXELATE.BIZ
Top row, from left: leather, £440, Michael Kors Collection. Leather, £2,500, Loewe. Middle row, from left: leather, £525, Boss. Leather, £225, Arket. Bottom row, from left: suede and leather, £1,750, Tod’s. Leather, from £450, Aeron
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ETRO
Clockwise from far left: bag, £485, Petit Kouraj, at Browns. Coat, £570, By Malene Birger. Bag, £875, Isabel Marant. Poncho, £349, Whistles. Bag, £845, Alberta Ferretti. Shawl, £168, Reiss
“Fringing will add interest to even the most minimalist of wardrobes”
EDITOR’S PICK
DONNA WALLACE, FASHION & ACCESSORIES EDITOR
FRINGE BENEFITS
EDITOR’S PICK
GETTY IMAGES
THEBE MAGUGU
Day or night, in leather, cashmere or beads, a fringed trim will attract attention
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Left: kaftan, £900, Taller Marmo, at Matchesfashion. com. Right: jacket, £390, The Kooples. Below: bag, £930, Etro
Leonie Hanne Dress, £169, Ghost
FENDI
WEAR WITH
Above: scarf, £89, Sandro. Ring, £49, Thomas Sabo. Right: boots, £595, Russell & Bromley
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Laura Mercier Face Illuminator in Addiction, £36, at Cultbeauty.co.uk
1
2
Bracelet, £330, Paco Rabanne, at Farfetch.com
SHAKING UP SHOPPING
Klarna’s clever buy-now-pay-later model and accompanying app make shopping simple and seamless, allowing you to get your hands on your perfect purchases without the wait YOU TRY ON A DRESS, you love the dress, and you
pay for said dress there and then. That’s how shopping used to work, anyway. But now? Thanks to Klarna’s innovative payment platform and its accompanying app, you can choose the approach that works best for you – buying now and paying when it suits you instead. Take that dream dress – maybe it’s The Vampire’s Wife’s cult Falconetti dress with its ruffled neckline, or one of Ganni’s chic, seersucker midis. With Klarna, you’ve got options. Maybe you buy it now, and decide to pay in 30 days’ time. Perhaps you even buy it in several different colours and sizes, so you can try them all on in the comfort of your own home, get advice from a friend and take some time to think about it – all before a single penny leaves your account. And unlike costly credit cards, that’s without fees, without interest and without any impact on your credit score. Or maybe you’d rather split the cost of your purchase across three equal monthly instalments, allowing you to get your hands on that must-have item before it sells out, and dividing the cost into manageable chunks rather than one hefty hit. Again, that’s with no fees, no interest and no impact on your credit score – just full financial empowerment over your purchases, starting now. And there’s plenty out
there to choose from when it comes to getting your shopping fix: Klarna boasts an impressive roster of more than 250,000 retail partners, spanning both high-street and high-end, from Asos to Anya Hindmarch, Shrimps to Swarovski and Charlotte Tilbury to Champion. And then there’s also the Klarna app, downloaded by more than four million users and dedicated to making shopping even simpler. Through the app you can shop via any online retailer, splitting the cost into three instalments so you can get your hands on your perfect purchase without having to wait – wherever you’re shopping. There’s also the Collections feature, which allows you to save the products you love to your personal wishlists, and find expertly curated shopping content for inspiration – as well as setting up price-drop notifications to ensure you’re first in line once sales season comes around. You can easily manage your purchases and repayments in one place, as well as receiving handy notifications when payments are due, and accessing 24/7 customer service support via the in-app chat function. That’s what Klarna is all about: making shopping smoother, for everyone. n To add the items on this page to your own wishlist, download the Klarna app today
PLEASE SPEND RESPONSIBLY, BORROWING MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD COULD SERIOUSLY AFFECT YOUR FINANCIAL STATUS. MAKE SURE YOU CAN AFFORD TO MAKE YOUR MONTHLY REPAYMENTS ON TIME. OVER-18S ONLY. T&CS APPLY. KLARNA BANK AB (PUBL) OFFERS BOTH REGULATED AND UNREGULATED PRODUCTS. KLARNA’S PAY IN 30 DAYS AND PAY IN 3 INSTALMENTS IS NOT REGULATED BY THE FCA. FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT KLARNA.COM
3 Dress, £320, Self-Portrait
4
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
6
Clutch, rent from £14, Charlotte Olympia, at My Wardrobe HQ
5 Blouse, £260, Temperley
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Boots, £940, Bottega Veneta, at Farfetch.com
8 Watch, £770, Montblanc
Charlotte Tilbury Colour Chameleon in Amethyst Aphrodisiac, £19
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Aesop Erémia eau de parfum, £140
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Hourglass Vanish Blush Stick in Revel, £45, at Cultbeauty.co.uk
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Bag, £620, Rimowa
Elemis ProCollagen Renewal Serum, £70
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Boots, £475, Ganni
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP Mesh jacket, £70. Bra, £35. Leggings, £56. Trainers, £80. All Skechers
ATHLEISURE EVOLVED
Stylish form meets comfortable function in the new autumn/winter 2021 apparel collection from Skechers. Athleisure has never felt this goodÉ
Reversible jacket, £60. Bra, £18. Leggings, £40. All Skechers
Trainers, £80, Skechers
OH, HOW THE WORLD rejoiced when trainers became part of trendsetters’ wardrobes. Move over stilettos, the new powerhouse shoe had made its mark. Worn from boardroom to ballroom, the trainer is still everywhere. Athleisure also caught on, with streamlined silhouettes, breathable fabrics and clever detailing. It was a marvel that the world had taken so long to work out this combination of form meets function. And one of the leaders in this savvy revolution? Skechers, which for more than 30 years has been at the forefront of footwear beloved by celebrities and influencers alike. The brand, also known as The Comfort Technology Company, has now lent its expertise to an apparel collection. The range is cleverly divided into the more performance-focused Skechers GOwalk Wear collection and a classically supportive Skechers GOlounge Wear line. Take note of the moisture-wicking reversible jackets,
front-zip bras and feel-good, quick-dry tanks. But the real stars of the show? The high-waisted, GOwalk Wear and GOlounge Wear leggings. All of us know how key fit and comfort are in a pair of leggings. Whether it’s a half marathon, yoga session or an all-day errand run, these heroes won’t let you down. You can even slip them on under your favourite tunic to the office. Made with the brand’s trademarked GOflex fabric technology, initially developed for its beloved shoes, the fit on these is second to none. From the double compression waistbands to the clever exterior side pockets, it’s this commitment to the brand’s DNA that makes the collection stand out from the rest of the athleisure pack. Bonus points go to the colour palette, too. Choose from neutral black to zesty animal print and big blossom florals – there’s something to suit myriad moods. In a world of uncertainty, we expect a lot from our clothes – and these smart new pieces really do do it all. n Shop the full Skechers activewear apparel collection now in Skechers stores and at Skechers.co.uk
CHLOE
SHOPPING special
STITCH IN TIME
GUTTER CREDIT HERE LIKE ACIELLE/STYLEDUMONDE.COM
A homespun feel weaves its way through the autumn collections via charming crochet knits, quilting and patchwork
Above, from top: skirt, £260, Pinko, at Farfetch.com. Cardigan, £550, &Daughter. Bag, £795, Coach. Blanket, £285, Labour & Wait
EDITORÕS PICK
Marte Mei van Haaster
Above left: tank top, £390, Sea, at Matches fashion.com. Above: sweater, £36, Mango
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NEW COLLECTION GHOST.CO.UK
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Blanca Miró Scrimieri
“A handcrafted piece tells a story – I work them through my wardrobe as I do my home” NAOMI SMART, SHOPPING DIRECTOR
EDITOR’S PICK
GETTY IMAGES
LOEWE
EDITOR’S PICK
Clockwise from top right: necklace, £175, Pond. Skirt, £355, Cormio, at Koibird. Cushion, £575, Ashish, at Matchesfashion.com. Trousers, £295, Shrimps. Trainers, £105, Nike, at Net-a-Porter.com. Bag, £270, Staud, at Matchesfashion.com. Kimono, from £250, Kleed Kimonos
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SHOPPING special
Natasha Goldenberg
Wool mix, £65, Superdry
Cashmere mix, £1,380, Ermanno Scervino
EDITOR’S PICK
Wool, £265, Margaret Howell
Wool, £260, Stine Goya, at Liberty
SWEATER WEATHER Cotton/wool, £70, Levi’s
Tamu McPherson
EDITOR’S PICK
Wool mix, £95, French Connection
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Wool and cotton, £510, Paco Rabanne
Wool, £249, Maje
“Consider the mileage: a Fair Isle works with everything, be it big collars or patent leather” LAURA INGHAM, FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR
ACIELLE/STYLEDUMONDE.COM
The Fair Isle knit is enjoying its moment in the sun. Go bask
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
FASHION REFRESH Play the long game and breathe new life into your favourite fashion with The Restory
NICOLE MARKHOFF/THE RESTORY
THE LEADING innovator in luxury aftercare – and every
Vogue editor’s secret weapon – is expanding its repertoire. Alongside its already popular shoes, bags and leather goods services, The Restory’s network of artisans now works hard to prolong the life of clothing, too. Its repair and alteration solutions, from vanishing scuffs to reviving colour and restitching embroidery, is just the click of a button away. Fall in love with your old favourites again by simply booking a collection online anywhere in the world. The Restory will send you a comprehensive quote breaking down its craftsmanship services, including any bespoke work, and before you know it, you’ll be unwrapping the refreshed and beautifully packed item as if it was brand-new again. Buying better and letting The Restory make pieces last not only makes financial sense, it also helps safeguard the health of our planet. n Book a feel-good collection today at The-restory.com/book
FAMILY PORTR AITS DISCOVER THE STORY AT MANGO.COM
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Heaven for leather
Step into the new season wearing these real and faux staples. Edited by Itunu Oke
Vogue, February 2017
Bag, £595, Smythson
Blazer, £282, Frankie Shop
Dress, £565, Nanushka
COCO CAPITAN
Boots, £610, Dear Frances
Bag, £250, Kits London
Gloves, £118, Agnelle, at Net-a-Porter.com Trousers, £265, LVIR, at Brownsfashion.com
Bandeau, £94, Cult Naked
SHOPPING special
CHECKLIST
Modern classics
A simple palette belies the standout structure of these timeless pieces, says Itunu Oke
Vogue, March 2018
Trousers, £50, River Island Studio
Boots, £320, Camperlab
Jacket, £145, Daily Paper
Dress, £1,500, Gabriela Hearst
Vest, £18, Toga Archives & H&M
Shirt, £33, Na-Kd
THEO SION
At The Restory, an in-house team of artisans provide modern aftercare for your most beloved items – so you can wear them over and over again. The-restory.com
Dress, £100, Barbour
Boots, £67, Skechers
DOWNTOWN
russellandbromley.co.uk
Politically SPEAKING
After more than three decades as an MP, Diane Abbott has lived it all – and has the triumphs and battle scars to show for it. She grants a rare audience to Nosheen Iqbal. Portraits by Misan Harriman. Styling by Donna Wallace
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DIANE WEARS COAT, MAX MARA. TOP, EILEEN FISHER, AT FENWICK. NECKLACE, MOTLEY
T
here is a tiny wine bar near where Diane Abbott remembers featuring on more Conservative posters – as the lives in east London that hosts no more than six feared enemy – than Labour ones. Yet, when the ballots customers at a time, and serves only bread and were counted, there she was: beaming in a red jacket and cheese to soak up the booze. The Labour MP for pearls, set to become part of the first black and Asian intake Hackney North and Stoke Newington arrives with minimal in Parliament for almost a hundred years. fuss, sliding into a corner with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a staggering and glorious win, but “there were a She is slighter and quieter than the Abbott you know from lot of micro-aggressions,” she says, recalling the period. TV, dressed head-to-toe in navy and wearing a slick of “Labour wasn’t thrilled any of us got elected in ’87. black-cherry lipstick. The lighting is dim, the scene seems Fortunately for me – and unfortunately for them – they set for a conspiratorial gossip. Abbott is unconvinced. weren’t able to [axe me].” “I wouldn’t say I’m mistrustful, but I’m cautious,” she says In spite of all her electoral successes, it’s never been plain drily, in those instantly recognisable tones. “You think people sailing. In 2017 (then shadow home secretary under Jeremy are your friend, but they’re not.” Corbyn), she endured a general election campaign so brutal Few people understand this as well as Abbott. For all her that Amnesty International revealed she was the target of public profile and almost 35 years in Parliament – filled nearly half the abusive tweets sent to female politicians in with both usual and unusual highs and the six weeks before election day. The lows – she now occupies a pretty solitary press wasn’t much kinder, until she “I just wanted to space in British politics. Largely adored disclosed the physical toll that type two change the world. The in her constituency, loved and loathed diabetes was having on her health. within her party and the country at idea that you can be a For a while, in the aftermath of defeat, large; at 67, she continues to face a she withdrew from the public eye. voice for the voiceless is unique brand of scrutiny and abuse that “At one point, I felt completely still very important” often surpasses her peers. An Abbott crushed by the volume of racist and gaffe, such as stumbling over numbers sexist hate poured on me,” she says. during interviews, is pounced upon, making her a butt of How did she cope? “Obviously, it’s painful. It’s designed to jokes and memes. be. It’s dehumanising. It’s one thing when it’s anonymous But her extraordinary accomplishments – first black woman people online but when it’s mainstream journalists, who MP, first black MP at the PMQs despatch box, the only know me, who are defaulting to a stereotype of what I am black person from a state school to study at Cambridge in and not who I am…” She trails off, pausing to consider the 1970s – cannot be disputed. “There’s this narrative about what keeps her going. “There are so many issues that you how I’m an idiot,” she says, bluntly. “I think most people want to engage with. You wake up in the morning, you hear don’t realise I actually went to a reasonable university.” something on the radio, and you think, ‘Someone should It’s an impressive legacy. But to understand the Abbott say something about that.’ And then you think, ‘I’ll say conundrum you need to go back to the start. On 11 June something about that.’” 1987, the then 33-year-old turned up to Hackney Town It’s a Pollyanna-ish spirit that’s always been with her. Hall on general election night expecting the worst. The Abbott grew up in Paddington and as a child dreamt of campaign had been chaotic. The Conservatives’ Hackney political office, gabbing away to her mother about news office was firebombed and Abbott’s HQ had its windows stories, declaring what she’d do as the UN secretary general, smashed. She fought her own party to win a candidacy or how she’d take charge as prime minister. “I just wanted (which the National Front also protested against) and to change the world,” she says, smiling at the memory. >
FORCES for CHANGE
Hair: Zateesha Barbour. Make-up: Alex Babsky. Nails: Roxanne Campbell. Set design: Danny Hyland. Digital artwork: True Black Studio
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Below, from left: Diane Abbott, photographed in Hackney by Misan Harriman; with Jeremy Corbyn at the 2018 Labour Party Conference
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“The idea that you can be a voice for the voiceless is still very important. It’s very current – just look at the way migrants are demonised. Immigration and asylum have always been a big part of my postbag.” It’s an issue she understands. Abbott’s parents – a welder and a nurse – both left school at 14 to move to Britain from Jamaica as part of the Windrush generation. But, with a confidence born of naivety rather than arrogance, Abbott had a plan to succeed academically. She excelled at Harrow County School for Girls and applied for a university place at Cambridge, against her teachers’ advice. She graduated with a history degree, before stints as an administrative trainee at the Home Office and a reporter at Thames TV, which led her to embark on a career in politics. In 1982, she was elected to Westminster City Council, and from there to Parliament. Her transition to life as an MP was a challenge on many fronts. With an energy that makes her gasp now, Abbott describes being back at work a mere eight days after her only son, James, was born in 1991. She’d carry him in a sling in the Commons, to the annoyance of some male colleagues. She and her then-husband, Ghanaian architect David Thompson, divorced when James was a baby. “It was very difficult to be a single mother with a young child, and an MP,” she says, recalling that “regularly Parliament would
carry on till 10 at night. I mean, just the logistics of that were ridiculous.” Even now, she says, “it is still quite tough to be a woman and an MP.” Abbott is measured, sinking into long pauses before speaking. She appreciates that experience has made her guarded. “I’m very conscious that other people will make a mistake and it’s fine, they made a mistake. I make a mistake and it’s a huge thing,” she says. It’s an exhausting way to live. Take mojito gate, when she was snapped with a Marks & Spencer cocktail can on the London Overground in 2019. Among the wave of fury and calls for her resignation, a youthquake emerged as young people refused to let Abbott be vilified. “At first, I was so embarrassed. You know, caught drinking a mojito on the train.” Then, the junior staff in her office told her it was seen as a “relatable moment” online. “That’s when I realised it was going to be fine,” she smiles. Does she still buy M&S tinnies? “Yes, occasionally!” Despite it all, Abbott has never shied away from controversy. She repeatedly defies the party whip, and has publicly berated Labour leaders – in particular, Tony Blair. “Was I undesirable?” she asks rhetorically. “For New Labour, yes.” What about now? Last year, she blasted Keir Starmer on Newsnight for the way she felt he had manoeuvred his way into the role of Labour Party leader. “I’m not looking for another big job [under Starmer],” she says. “It’s a very different parliamentary Labour Party now.” Several months later we meet again, this time in Abbott’s new home. She has recently sold her four-bedroom Dalston house (after her son moved out it was “too much for me on my own”) and is renting a “stopgap” nearby. Since we last spoke, the nation has been through the second wave of the pandemic and Abbott’s main concern over the past few months has been focused on the uptake of the vaccine in her constituency, which has one of the lowest vaccination rates in the capital. On our second meeting, she is less harsh on the Labour leader. “I think that there’s a tension between offering the right criticisms, but not being seen by the public to be nitpicking or negative or unpatriotic,” she says of Starmer’s approach to taking the government to task. “And Keir has sought to strike that balance.”
FORCES for CHANGE
DIANE WEARS JACKET AND TOP, MAX MARA. NECKLACE, MOTLEY. BRACELET, ALIGHIERI. RING, TOM WOOD. MISAN HARRIMAN. SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT. MATT CROSSICK/EMPICS ENTERTAINMENT; PA IMAGES; GETTY IMAGES
“I’m very conscious that other people will make a mistake and it’s fine. I make a mistake and it’s a huge thing” She has no time for the culture war that is constantly being stoked. “There’s no such thing as woke culture,” she tuts. “It’s a way of denigrating people.” She continues, “It’s bizarre, the way the right have this sense of being victims when we have a right-wing government, we have a largely right-wing media. What more do they want?” If Abbott has sometimes been a thorn in Labour’s side, she’s also helped steer its moral compass. Back when it was considered career suicide, Abbott voted consistently against the Iraq War. She’s also voted against tuition fees and renewing the UK’s Trident nuclear weapons system; she was one of only 18 MPs to vote against the coalition government’s 2014 Immigration Act, which made the Windrush scandal possible. Instead, she has lobbied for gay rights, for jobs and financial support for the young, and on measures to prevent climate change. When Corbyn was elected leader of the party, Abbott was thrust into the limelight. She and Corbyn were firm friends, and the media latched on to their decades-old intimate relationship. “Jeremy was the first Labour leader, that I can remember, who tried to have genuinely progressive policies on immigration,” she says, ever-loyal to the now sunk Corbyn project. Of Labour’s dealing with antiSemitism in the party, she says, “there’s no question it could’ve been handled better because ultimately it was right down the chain.” She’s referring to the leaked internal report, which also exposed racist remarks made by party members about Abbott and fellow black MPs Dawn Butler and Clive Davis. It made, she says tactfully, for “ugly reading”. Has she had an apology? “No,” she says. “None.”
Perhaps her biggest inconsistency seems to be mirroring her politics with her personal life. Abbott criticised her colleagues, including Blair, for not sending their children to state schools while promising to achieve a fairer education for all. But when her son turned 13, she sent him to a feepaying school, saying she had to choose between her reputation and her son’s interest, as, “Once a black boy is lost to the world of gangs, it’s very hard to get them back.” “I’m not talking about my love life,” she says coyly, when I ask if she’s dating. “That is one of the sacrifices you make [for this job] really.” Is she in love? “At this moment, no.” It is her friends, she says, “that have been able to support me when things were difficult”. Abbott’s days are simpler now, out of the shadow cabinet – early walks, reading the papers and “a little tweeting” have become a morning routine. Nevertheless, from the backbench you can still “push on the national picture,” she says, and education remains a key focus for her. There is, she concedes, “life after politics” but for now, she is disinterested in stepping away from the job. “Apart from the things I’ve been able to do for Hackney, the thing I’m proudest of is that I’ve lived to see a whole new generation of young black women coming to Parliament,” she says. “The first 10 years, I was there on my own. Now, I’ll be going to chamber and there will be these black women! I never cease to get a kind of thrill out of it.” Indeed, she says, her most active Parliament WhatsApp group is called Sisters in the House. The night before our second meeting, Abbott went to see J’Ouvert at the Harold Pinter (theatre is one of her great passions). Afterwards, the cast, having spotted her in the audience, came to say hello. “What struck me was how excited they were that I was there,” she says, sounding dumbstruck. “It genuinely takes me aback to see myself in the eyes of younger women.” It is these interactions that help her go on. “It’s the people who come up to me in the street and say, ‘I wrote to you all those years ago and you got me this flat,’” Abbott says. She stands to put her coat on, and a murmur of recognition whispers through the bar. “But on a macro-level,” she says, smiling, “it’s still the 1997 general election. It’s hope.” n
Clockwise from bottom left: Abbott speaking at an Anti-Racism Action conference in 1992; at the House of Commons with Bernie Grant, centre, and Jeremy Corbyn, right; addressing activists from Extinction Rebellion in Parliament Square, 2019; Abbott in 2004 on This Week, which she frequently appeared on alongside Conservative Michael Portillo
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Take note: Nike and soccer star Megan Rapinoe are creating a brand partnership that is truly one of a kind
“I FEEL LIKE
this is kind of an evolutionary process for me and Nike, because I feel like I’m getting… you know, I’m 36 years old,” Megan Rapinoe tells Vogue over Zoom. In stacked chains and gold rings, with her trademark cropped pink hair and a vintage Dennis Rodman T-shirt, the American soccer player’s style is certainly her own. So, too, is her ability to use her public-facing platform to fight for equal pay and social justice. “Obviously, this collaboration isn’t like, ‘OK, this person is 23 years old, they have all this potential, and we’re going to invest in that.’” she says. “It was sort of investing in a different thing, and I think that the evolutionary part
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
for Nike is understanding that this is a little bit of a different kind of a model from what we’re used to, which is getting athletes young, and following them through their whole careers.” This year marks a new dawning for Nike and Rapinoe. For the first time ever, the brand is not only fully supporting a female athlete, but also placing marginalised communities at the heart of a new partnership. It’s a welcome move and a sign of changing times. “I think after the last Fifa Women’s World Cup [in 2019], it was like something just happened, like lightning in a bottle, and a lot of things changed,” explains Rapinoe, who currently plays for the US women’s national team. “I think for both of us, it was like, ‘OK, how do we do something special with it?’” To kick things off, it’s been a meeting of minds. “It has been a lot of visionsharing and understanding,” Rapinoe says. “I want Nike to wrangle the universe and bring it back to me, and they’re like, ‘OK, we can wrangle a couple planets right now,’” she says, laughing. “But, you know,
I think it’s really important for them to understand my big vision, and where I’m seeing all this going. This isn’t just like, ‘Oh, I have an opportunity to have a big deal with Nike.’ This is so much more than that.” The long-term partnership will involve a series of collaborative stages. First up: Rapinoe has selected pieces from both the women’s and the men’s current collections. As an Olympic gold medallist, two-time World Cup winner and 2019 Ballon d’Or female player of the year, Rapinoe certainly knows what she wants from her sportswear. “I think the first non-negotiable is always the functionality of the piece,” >
Above: Megan Rapinoe selects pieces from Nike’s current collections
she says. “Whether that’s a chair that you’re sitting in, or the shoes that you’re wearing, or a piece of jewellery, or whatever it is – if you’re uncomfortable in it, if it doesn’t perform the technical tasks that it’s designed to perform, then it’s not even worth really getting involved in. So, that’s a big part of it.” For Rapinoe, it’s important to stress that the collection isn’t gender neutral. “I think when I look at sportswear, I don’t even like to say ‘gender inclusive’ or ‘gender neutral’. I think that still puts so much constraint on what we’re doing,” she explains. “I think traditionally, things have been designed by men, and it’s just assumed that they’re for everyone. Whereas anytime anything is designed by a woman, a black person, a gay person, or a person marginalised by gender – whatever it may be – it’s like for that specific thing. So for me, it’s really important not to do that because I feel like that’s in my fashion. I can, you know, wear this vintage T-shirt of Dennis Rodman but I can also rock a Gucci gown. I’m not trying to shape shift by being like, ‘Oh, I’m more masculine today or more feminine today, or in the middle.’ I think that really is at the heart of fashion.”
For Megan Rapinoe, fashion is important – and great design has to perform
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP “I feel like we’re all in this together,” says the soccer star and Nike collaborator
Rapinoe isn’t the first female athlete with a strong interest in fashion to collaborate with Nike. GOAT Serena Williams is actively incorporating diverse perspectives into design through Serena Williams Design Crew; while fellow tennis player Naomi Osaka helps give young girls access to sport through Play Academy. Like Williams and Osaka, Rapinoe’s collection has more depth to its design – and it couldn’t be more timely. “This deal was all tied up just a couple months ago, but we’ve been in talks basically since the Women’s World Cup,” she explains, of a year that also saw her announce her engagement to her partner, Sue Bird. “So, going through 2020 in our country, and the civil rights uprising and the political uprising, and so many other marginalised groups finding their voice and getting a much bigger voice – I feel like I can’t really pin down one thing that the deal signifies, but I think the whole point is that Nike really met the moment to understand, ‘OK, we have to capture all of what Megan is, which is definitely not one thing.’” Rapinoe is certainly different from many of her peers. The women’s national team has been fighting for fair contracts for decades, but after their Women’s World Cup win, their fight for equal pay has increased tenfold with Rapinoe leading the charge. This is where her universal appeal lies: every woman can see a bit of themselves in her, whether they follow soccer or not. It’s something that Rapinoe feels “amazing ” about. “ Women are marginalised people who have this shared understanding. I feel like I can look at you right now and you totally understand it,” she says, referring to the fight for women’s rights. “I think if it were you in the position that we’re in, I would expect you and want you to carry that mantle. We play for the women’s national team; we have huge audiences and we have huge social media following. You know, we’re one of the best, most successful teams in our country. “It kind of started as our own personal fight. But very quickly, we realised the
power that we have to speak on behalf of and with so many other women. I think us being willing to do that, and wanting to do that also galvanises more people. I feel like we’re all in this together, we just happen to be the ones that have the microphone, and everybody has a responsibility and a job to do within it.” It ’s this type of change-maker attitude that Rapinoe is also applying to her Nike partnership. She has reimagined it for herself, asking, “How do we take everything that I am, and
put the full weight of the Nike machine behind that to amplify what we’re both trying to do?” she says. “I think we both have such a deep commitment to progress, and to pushing the envelope, and – both from an on- and off-field perspective – being the absolute best that you can possibly be. And so bringing those things together to craft a different kind of partnership that’s never really been done in a sports landscape before.” n Discover the collection – which launches this autumn – for yourself at Nike.com
ARCHIVE
WOMAN’S REALM Robin Muir looks back at the Vogue debut of a high-achieving model royal, photographed by Norman Parkinson, October 1965
P
rincess Elizabeth of Toro – Vogue’s “Princess from the Mountains of the Moon” – is the Princess Royal of the ancient Kingdom of Toro (also known as Tooro), which lies on a high plateau between two great lakes on Uganda’s south-western border. In 1962, shortly before Uganda gained independence from British rule, Elizabeth, the eldest daughter of Rukidi III and Kezia of Buganda, graduated from Cambridge. In 1965, the year of her first Vogue shoot, she was called to the bar, London’s first female East African barrister. Of her education, which included school in England, she told Vogue, “I enjoyed myself but never forgot why I was here. I have been given enormous privileges, so many opportunities that it would have been a total calamity if I had failed. I could not have borne the disappointment of those who have helped me.” Later she would write, candidly, “I felt that I was on trial and that my failure to excel would reflect badly on the entire black race.” She returned to Uganda to practice law but fled when Milton Obote swept to power (he would shortly abolish the hereditary monarchies). The princess’s poise led to a career as a model. Certainly expedient, she thought it might also serve a purpose: the promotion of African culture. Princess Margaret invited her to London, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis to New York, and in 1969 she featured on the cover of Harper’s
Bazaar. This prompted an all-staff memo from American Vogue’s Diana Vreeland, who admired her “fantastic figure” and “enormous aristocratic manner”. She said, “It is a great mistake that we are not using her more – and I really mean this.” That same year, Elizabeth made a dazzling appearance in British Vogue’s Christmas issue, photographed by David Bailey. Her modelling continued into the new decade. Meanwhile, in Uganda, Obote was overthrown by his onetime army chief-of-staff, Idi Amin. In 1974, the princess was summoned back, appointed initially as a roving peacemaker for an increasingly erratic administration, and latterly and briefly, minister of foreign affairs for a now unstable dictator. Falling out of favour – she is said to have declined Amin’s offer of marriage – she fled again. Under a benign new regime, she became, in turn, Uganda ambassador to the United States, to Germany and to the Vatican, as well as a tireless promoter of African causes abroad. A distinguished career in public life still lay before her when she sat for photographer Norman Parkinson in 1965. He found the young Elizabeth refreshingly, perhaps unexpectedly, down to earth. Smoothing down a fold in her Guy Laroche dress, he told her, “You look just like a princess.” “I don’t think that I particularly want to,” she replied. “You can’t help it,” he said as his camera whirred into life. n
Diana Vreeland admired her “enormous aristocratic manner” 151
MR VOGUE
We’ve been expecting you New Bond director Cary Joji Fukunaga talks to Amel Mukhtar. Photograph by Paul Wetherell. Styling by Julia Brenard
Wool jacket, £1,800. Cotton shirt, £500. Wool trousers, £570. All Dior. Silk pocket square, £70, Turnbull & Asser. Leather shoes, £1,350, John Lobb. Socks, £13, Pantherella. Grooming: Kat Thomas
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DIGITAL ARTWORK: RABBIT RETOUCHING. SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
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t’s obviously been annoying as each potential release came along and was pushed,” says No Time To Die director Cary Joji Fukunaga, hoping – along with legions of fans – that it will be third time lucky for his beleaguered Bond movie. The 44-year-old Californian joins the 007 family at a milestone moment, this – the 25th film in Eon’s franchise history – will be Daniel Craig’s last outing as the British spy. So, how to put a fresh spin on it? For Fukunaga, it meant avoiding the distract-themwith-explosions and “don’t worry about story” route suggested to him by a successful director. “I care about my characters,” he laughs. He wanted to deepen Bond’s interior world and explore his priorities in middle age. To do so, he has looked to his own life. “There are elements of my experiences and feelings throughout the whole story,” he says. There’s no shortage of material. Fukunaga wanted to be a pilot until his vision faltered, and was a pro snowboarder until his leg broke – in fact, it was while he was injured that he developed his writing at a theatre group. Several reroutes later (including a stint as a stylist) he entered film school, aged 24. With easy charm and leading-man looks, it’s a surprise he didn’t opt to be in front of the camera, but, he says, he had already “sort of lived and played different roles”. Born to a Swedish-American mother and Japanese-American father, he felt “neither white nor Asian”. Brought up in Oakland, he connected to east coast hip-hop and Malcolm X. At first,“I was like, ‘Who am I?’” he laughs, but now he embraces the versatility of being a “third-culture kid”. “Whatever I’m interested in, I just do it.” Right now, that’s directing the Steven Spielberg and Tom Hanks-produced miniseries Masters of the Air, and adapting his favourite book, A Soldier of the Great War. After so many high-profile projects he’s learnt that, “if you get too in the weeds about the expectations of the world, the studio and yourself, you’re not going to be able to perform at your best. It doesn’t have to be the best in the world… I’m aiming for something that affects people, hits the heart.” n No Time To Die will be released in cinemas on 1 October
PRETTY IN PUNK It’s time to explore the rebellious side of fashion. Edited by Itunu Oke. Photograph by Leandro Farina A BIGGER SPLASH The Louis Vuitton Capucines bag has had another makeover. The third instalment of this collaborative project sees artist Gregor Hildebrandt bring his signature work to the French maison. This screen-printed creation is more than an accessory, it’s art. Bag, £6,250, Louis Vuitton & Gregor Hildebrandt
Necklace, price on request, Pomellato
Jacket, £3,640, Alexander McQueen
Bracelet, £3,700, Gucci
Corset, £820, Vivienne Westwood
Bag, £2,280, Valentino
Boots, £895, Manolo Blahnik
Shoes, £1,050, Dior
PAOLO ROVERSI
Trainers, £580, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Necklace, £750, Chanel
Gloves, £895, Dolce & Gabbana
Vogue, May 2013
Earrings, £756, Givenchy
CHECKLIST
CHECKLIST Vogue, June 2019
Valentino Beauty Twin Liner in Black & Nero, £36
Bobbi Brown Crushed Shine Jelly Stick in Cranberry, £25
Estée Lauder Pure Color Whipped Matte Liquid Lip in Bar Noir, £26
Christian Louboutin Beauty Noir Nail Colour in Khol, £41
Mac Cosmetics Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Black Mirror, £18
Beauty Pie Quantum Bronzer Matte in Ain’t No Sunshine, £26
Lancôme Hypnôse Palette in Smokey Chic, £44
Marc Jacobs Perfect Intense eau de parfum 50ml, £85
THEO SION
Fenty Beauty Full Frontal Volume, Lift & Curl Mascara in Ivy League, £11
HEALING POWER
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n the morning of 20 January 2020, only weeks before the pandemic turned the world upside down, I suffered a catastrophic brain injury. One moment I was in a meeting in New York (where I live with my husband and two children), briefly distracted by the play of light as bright winter sunshine bounced off the East River and poured through the windows; the next – nothing. I was in a coma for 17 days, and when I came round, I couldn’t speak, walk, write or move the right side of my body, but one of the hardest things was having to accept that, in an instant, my life had changed forever. My brain injury, it turned out, was the result of a rare condition, an arteriovenous malformation (or AVM) – blood vessels connecting my arteries and veins had formed “incorrectly” in the womb. Nobody – no doctor, no parent, nobody – could have known. A few days previously I had been flying back to NYC from London, where I was born and grew up. If my AVM had started to rupture over the Atlantic, it would have been fatal. As it happened, I was admitted to the emergency room quite shortly after I lost consciousness. There were heroic doctors and nurses on standby; an expert brain surgeon, Dr Christopher Kellner was paged; my life was saved. Timing is everything. When I was discharged, months later, the pandemic had rendered life unrecognisable – just as my brain injury had rendered me unrecognisable. Navigating the cognitive dissonance of the new world, of my new world, has been exhausting and distressing. And yet I feel like the luckiest woman in the world that I even get to try. There are, of course, occasional moments of relief, even joy. Brain injury or no, watching my kids, now aged seven and three, go about their little lives is mostly a source of pleasure. But it’s not uncomplicated. Observing them growing up and being unable to (inexpertly) kick a football, (impatiently) take them to the park or (soothingly) plaster a grazed knee, let alone have a real conversation, is agony. While I am
Clockwise from top left: Clemency on the streets of New York, 2019; in occupational therapy, March 2020; scars of a cranioplasty necessitated by the removal of the left part of her skull
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working hard to regain language, even trying to speak a few sentences exhausts me. I can’t properly tell them how much I love them. How much I love them. How much I love them. Before my brain exploded I had my ups and downs, of course. But even in my lowest moments (I had three grief-sodden miscarriages and have experienced extended periods of depression since my teens), I could always count on the loves of my life to get me through. People, books, music, art, theatre, London, travel, friends, going to the pub, watching my beloved Arsenal play – these were all part of the tool kit that I relied on for diversion and distraction. As a writer and broadcaster, my career was dedicated to communication and expression, storytelling and connection. My god, how I loved my work. But now, every exchange is such an effort. I cried in frustration writing this piece – left-thumbed on the Notes app, as I can no longer type or write – because I’m now afflicted with the twin curses of aphasia and apraxia, common for many brain-injury survivors. Interacting with the outside world is difficult, too. It’s hard for me to leave my neighbourhood without help. The world is more complicated – physically, neurologically, cognitively. The spectre of another major seizure, or worse, another serious brain haemorrhage, is always hovering. In my former existence, my horizons seemed infinite. Now, I can’t move much, let alone drive or fly, and being in a car, train or bus makes me feel anxious and physically sick. There are few days when I can leave my very circumscribed life. Privileged I may be, but my life is bound by a few Manhattan blocks. People ask me if this experience has revealed a new side of myself, maybe one that I am thankful for. It would be tempting to say it has. Thank you, brain injury, for uncovering a more enlightened me. Sure, there’s compromised speech and mobility, cognitive fog and chronic pain, but no hangovers! No late nights! A more healthy existence! Truthfully, I don’t think so. I’m still me. I miss those late nights. I miss drinking. I miss conversations. I miss my cities. I miss my work. And yet… I go for a short walk most days, if I am physically up to it, and I’m working on just being here. There’s nothing like the possibility of death at 38 to sharpen your gratitude for life, for actually being alive. Savouring the sounds of the city, the colour of the sky, the taste of an excellent cup of coffee. How lucky am I! If this is the extent of my life right now, what a life! Because the timing of the pandemic and my brain injury coincided, I still can’t see my best friends or my family. But looking at their faces via video chat, or stealing a moment alone with my beloved husband, watching our sons while they sleep, I appreciate these small things, which is actually everything. The pleasure of a heart-stopping sentence in a book, a forgotten favourite song coming on shuffle, a breathtaking sunset after the rain, a belly laugh with a dear friend 3,000 miles away – if there are words and music and light and humans communicating, then I know it’s going to be OK. It has to be, doesn’t it? Just today, I happened to be sitting outside a coffee shop on Lexington Avenue, when I caught sight of an old friend. He was walking on the other side, masked, outside his neighbourhood. It felt like the universe was throwing me a signal: don’t give up! I hobbled after him and the crosswalk lights changed in my favour. With all the force I could muster, I called out his name. He turned around. He had never seen me in my “new” life. Yet, he still recognised me. “There you are!” he exclaimed. Then he shook his head. And smiled. We embraced. “There you are.” n
ANDREW STAPLES/COURTESY OF CLEMENCY BURTON-HILL; JAMIE STOKER
When writer and broadcaster Clemency Burton-Hill suffered a catastrophic brain injury, her life changed forever. Here, she tells us about her road to recovery
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SIGHT With a whole new spacious environment to approach, BMW’s design team considered the i range’s interiors with the perspective of a living space. This is achieved by a clever combination of geometry, colour and ingeniously absorbed technology to complete the sensory experience.
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A feat of design and engineering, the innovations of BMW’s latest iX and i4 cars appeal to all the senses and propose a brand new way to drive. Photographs by Mitch Payne
ELECTRIC FEEL
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eldom can a brand claim to have reinvented the wheel, but BMW ’s re volutionar y development of electric vehicles in recent years has done just that. The company’s journey has been a long one – starting with its first electric prototype in 1972 – and has most recently produced two new electric models, the iX and the i4, which have redefined many of the marque’s own high standards. By placing the driver’s experience at the heart of its design process, BMW has brought new technologies to life and created totally fresh ways to see, hear and feel its cars along the way. Fittingly, it was by looking to the senses of sight, sound and touch that BMW approached the innovative design and technology created for the iX, a cleverly conceived sports activity vehicle, and the i4, a high-performance coupé. “It forced us to think in a different way,” explains Claudia Geidobler, head of BMW i colour and material design “From a designer’s point of view, it’s great because it’s a blank canvas,” she says. “You can create your own designs on [it] and come up with unique solutions.” For the design team, this meant approaching the space less like a traditional car and more as a living space. “We talked internally and said, ‘OK, what do you have in your own living room?’ Where do you want to hang out and what materials make you enjoy staying in a space? We wanted to hav e a real l y cosy environment, not only through geometry but The i series takes with colour and feel. integrated technology to an elegant new level We basically thought of it as a living room on
The iX retains all of BMW’s classic bold character but explores all new territory inside and out
wheels.” The feeling Geidobler describes – a welcoming sensation that begins on opening the car’s door – has been achieved through three key colour schemes, which resonate with modern interior design, and a brilliant use of forward-thinking materials. By exploring the idea of tactility, BMW has created spaces that you’ll actually want to stay in and enjoy – which won’t remove the prospect of traffic jams entirely, but will guarantee they’re a lot more pleasurable. “We started looking from the inside out,” explains digital design experience lead Jessica Covi.“Not just inside the car but inside the passenger and driver, how they feel.” For her team, the most intricate challenge with the interiors in the i range was finding a way to incorporate innovative technology in a subtle, stylish and integrated way. The result is something that BMW has christened “shy tech” – information and entertainment technology, which is there when you need it, and easily summoned and dismissed. Reinforcing the important tactile quality of the car, this involves aspects such as the use of gesture over physical contact for actions that inc lude increasing the stereo volume, as well as an impressive cutting down of “gadgetry” in general. It’s for this reason that the cars are as much a multisensory pleasure to drive as they are to simply hang out in. As Covi succinctly puts it, “The beautiful sculpture of the car itself and the beauty of digital design, they combine into one unit.” Perhaps an inevitable effect of technology borne from the aim of both best serving the planet and enjoying one’s space with the iX and i4 are their clever use of environmentally conscious materials and production. Though today new design shouldn’t need to shout so loudly about its sustainable virtues (customers should legitimately expect that such considerations have been made), there are aspects within the design of BMW’s i range that do deserve highlighting for the interesting story they tell. For example, many of the materials used in the iX are the products of years of development, experimentation and exploration, from an Econyl microfibre recycled from fishing nets to door panels that incorporate the super-low-footprint kenaf plant and the removal of hard-to-recirculate chrome from its paint. In fact, everywhere you look, material
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SOUND Outside, the iX and the i4 give off minimal noise, but inside, the cars come with a BMW Iconic Sounds Electric feature, a curated series of sound packages to enhance the driving experience. Expect the latest curation by composer Hans Zimmer to arrive early next year.
innovation is there. The unique challenge of these materials – distinct from those of clothing, for example – is the high standards of resistance that they must meet, a very difficult feat to achieve alongside biodegradability. One conversation that has recently come to the fore with clothing manufacture surrounds traditional chemical dyeing methods, which are among the most hazardous of processes to the environment. With this in mind, BMW’s challenge was to find a way to achieve the crimson red for the iX’s leather upholstery without negatively impacting the planet. The solution was eventually found in the juice of olive leaves – a natural, pioneering innovation and just another example of the brand’s holistic approach to solving design issues. It’s also worth noting that such advances in the physical and smart elements of the car don’t come at the cost of driving performance. The iX and i4 are leading the field
here, with a list of impressive stats to back that up. The i4 is the world’s first all-electric gran coupé, with the M50 promising 544 horsepower and the eDrive40 a 365-mile range. Meanwhile, the iX boasts a sports car level of acceleration, and can reach 74 miles of range from just 10 minutes of charge when using a rapid charger capable of 195kW. >
BMW IX MPG (L/100KM): NOT APPLICABLE. CO2 EMISSIONS: 0 G/KM. ELECTRIC ENERGY CONSUMPTION (COMBINED): 20 TO 21 KWH/100KM / 2.9 – 3 MILES/ KWH. THE IX XDRIVE40 ELECTRIC RANGE: 246-257 MILES. THE IX XDRIVE50 ELECTRIC RANGE: 366-380 MILES. BMW I4 MPG (L/100KM): NOT APPLICABLE. CO2 EMISSIONS: 0 G/KM. ELECTRIC ENERGY CONSUMPTION (COMBINED): 16.1 TO 18.4 KWH/100KM / 2.8 – 3.9 MILES/KWH. THE I4 ELECTRIC RANGE 258 – 366 MILES. WLTP RANGE FIGURES OBTAINED AFTER BATTERY FULLY CHARGED, SHOWN FOR COMPARABILITY PURPOSES. MAY NOT REFLECT REAL LIFE DRIVING RESULTS
The newly angled conversation around the relationship between person and space at the centre of BMW’s i range has also been made emphatically in the marque’s voice. One great example of this is the classic kidney grille that has been a central aspect of BMW’s visual identity since 1933 and was historically used for supplying cool air to the engine. Today, with no more need for its original purpose, the iX and i4’s kidney grille has been transformed into a smart hub, using inbuilt cameras and radar functions to supply hundreds of pieces of data “How can we give to the cars’ intelligent driving people something that is systems. There more of an experience are further great innovations, too, than they ever had with such as brake their petrol engines?” energy recovery and a superbly aerodynamic, lightweight construction, that mean that the cars are prepared to reach optimum performance, both on and off the road. Of all the innovations BMW has made in honing the feel of driving, one of the most interesting has come from filling the space created by the absence of engine noise. With the frequencies experienced by a driver eliciting an invisible yet deeply emotional effect, the “clean sheet” now available was handed over to an expert in the field. Legendary composer, producer and Academy Award winner Hans Zimmer was the surprising and brilliant choice to re-imagine the aural experience, as he was tasked with creating an audio landscape that will soon be absorbed into the existing iX and i4 models. “How can we give people something that is more of an experience than they ever had with their petrol engines?” asked Zimmer of the proposition, “and make it even more exciting and even more joyful to drive?” Such questions led the top composer to write music that reflects the serenity of hitting the open road and the excitement that lies at the heart of driving. Standing back to assess the score he has created for BMW, Zimmer says, “We have developed a driving sound which accentuates their emotional driving experience particularly vividly and ensures their performance can be felt with even greater intensity.” What all this adds up to is a truly unique driving experience. Behind the wheel, what strikes you most about both the iX and i4 is the physical, emotional and even intellectual pleasure you get from realising just how cleverly BMW have capitalised on the economy of space that eliminating much of what we have grown used to TOUCH as essential in a vehicle has given. No longer Add to that the attention to detail dominated by controls and applied to every aspect of the car and machinery, the feel the natural reaction is not so much of the car is simpler, cleaner one of shock as a sense of, “Why and more in tune hasn’t it always been like this?”As we with the driver and all get back to both experiencing the passenger. With integrated world afresh and thinking about it in technology serving wholly different ways, there has never a relationship both been a more perfect time to take a between driver and car and car and wheel that has been reinvented, in a road, it presents a sense, and feel it for yourself. n new, symbiotic experience. For more information, visit Bmw.co.uk
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
Incorporating intuitive “shy tech”, the iX’s interiors match BMW’s progressive mindset with details that feel akin to a stylish living space
NEW
LIFTACTIV
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VISIBLE RESULTS. HYPOALLERGENIC. TESTED BY DERMATOLOGISTS.
the appearance of fine lines. The fact that this product can safely and easily be applied to the entire face is fantastic as it saves time during my skin care routine DR MARY SOMMERLAD
*Self-assessment, 53 subjects
Vichy Consultant Dermatologist
Shop 3 for 2 across Vichy Skincare Available In-store | Boots.com | App Cheapest item free. Offer ends 19/10/21. Available at larger stores.
’’
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
Swimsuit, £365, Hermès. Hair: Anna Cofone. Make-up: Sunna Björk Erlingsdóttir. Digital artwork: Dtouch London. Model: Jill Kortleve
BEAUTY
Edited by Jessica Diner
FRESH TAKES
Your guide to the season’s best wellbeing and beauty innovations. Photographs by Felicity Ingram. Styling by Lorna McGee
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Vest, £560, Dior. Bikini bottoms, £315, Chanel
BIOHACK your way to better health Upgrade your wellbeing with a few simple tweaks, says Georgia Day
G
oogle the definition of biohacking and you’ll find practices ranging from sleeptracking and meditation to pumping young blood into your veins in a bid to fight ageing. Although the world of biohacking can sound somewhat sci-fi, its converts are keen to extol the benefits of what is a simple desire to perform and function at our very best. “People who think it’s only about cyborgs and chip implants are wrong – biohacking is all about health optimisation,” confirms Tim Gray, founder of the Health Optimisation Summit. “There can be crossover, but the fundamental practices are more basic than that. It’s not about turbocharging yourself so you can perform at a superhuman level, it’s about performing how we should be naturally and restoring homeostasis to the body.” In other words, to get started on your biohacking journey, address the fundamentals first and you’ll reap the health rewards quickly – no chip required.
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PRIORITISE YOUR SLEEP “Sleep is the number one tool for everything, whether your goal is more energy, weight loss, improved hair, skin and nails, or better mental health,” says Lee Mullins, founder of Workshop Gymnasium. Maximise your sleep quality by cutting down food and caffeine consumption before bedtime, and reducing your blue-light exposure at least three hours before bed. “Blue light stops us secreting melatonin, which is essential for proper sleep,” says Gray, who champions blue-light blocking glasses. Body warmth can also impact sleep quality, says Mullins. Invest in a temperature-controlled mattress pad that allows you to select your ideal sleeping climate.
From left: Quay Australia Blue Light Glasses, from £29. ChiliSleep Cube Sleep System, from £699
WELLNESS
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GO WITH YOUR GUT
FELICITY INGRAM; GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ
A healthy gut is a core principle of biohacking as it contributes to a strong immune system, and communicates with the brain to maintain overall wellbeing. “It forms the cornerstone of health and needs to be supported as such,” agrees the founder of Wild Nutrition, Henrietta Norton. Digestive enzymes help your body absorb nutrients from food and can be useful for those with digestion issues. Norton also advocates going back to basics with your diet. “The microbiome is unique in each individual and very sophisticated at correcting itself when given the right fuel, so get as much prebiotic fibre through your diet with vegetables and low fructose fruit such as berries, oats and seeds.” Workshop Gymnasium Essential Greens, £65
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STRESS LESS FOR BETTER SKIN “Skin has clever ways of showing us what is happening in the body in terms of internal factors, a lot of which can lead to inflammation in the skin,” says Jasmina Vico, a London-based skin health specialist. When we’re stressed, the hormone cortisol is triggered, which can lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, structural proteins responsible for springy skin. One way to manage strain is to get adequate vitamin D through exposure to sunlight or a 10mcg daily supplement. Also, although evidence is mostly anecdotal, the gentle heat of infrared saunas is thought to prompt the release of endorphins and lower cortisol with regular use, as well as increase circulation for anti-inflammatory benefits. Wild Nutrition Food-Grown Vitamin D, £15
TWEAK YOUR DAILY DIET It’s not just what we eat but when we eat that matters. “Intermittent fasting is an age-old technique,” says nutritionist and naturopath Rosemary Ferguson, who attests to it improving sleep, digestion, gut health, energy and mental clarity. “The simplest way to do it is to extend the natural fast that you’ve had overnight and not eat until 11am, for example. When you do eat, ensure that it is following the perfect plate method: half veggies, quarter protein, quarter carbs and a little good fat.” Also try adding a scoop of reishi or chaga mushroom to your daily smoothie. According to Ferguson, these antioxidant adaptogens offer a different array of phytonutrients from other plant foods and bring balance to the body. Leaf & Oil Organic Reishi Mushroom Powder, £16
FEEL THE EARTH MOVE Although the science behind it is limited, few would argue the benefits of grounding, a method that sees you physically – and electrically – connect with the earth. This allows its negatively charged antioxidants to counteract the positive free radical charge that builds up inside our bodies. “Grounding is a fantastic anti-inflammatory practice,” notes Gray. “We are electrical creatures and grounding uses that principle to reduce inflammation and maintain balance. Twenty barefoot minutes twice a day enables adequate flow of free electrons, whether it’s on grass, natural rock, soil or sea.” If you can’t get outside, grounding mats that can be plugged into your electrical socket are said to conduct the earth’s energy in a similar way. Groundology Large Grounding Mat, £49
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This page: bikini, from £125, Reina Olga. Opposite: slip dress, £340, Olivia von Halle
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DIRECTOR’S CUT LA MER THE EYE CONCENTRATE, £180 The eye companion to the cult range of moisturisers, this wonder product contains La Mer’s Concentrated Miracle Broth (made from fermented sea kelp from South Korea), lauded for its ability to regenerate and restore.
SYRENE AQUA INTENSE CREAM, £65 This super-luxurious night cream contains marine collagen that helps plump from within while you sleep. Wake up to pillow-soft skin.
VICHY MINERAL 89 PROBIOTIC FRACTIONS, £29 Vichy’s volcanic water combined with a probiotic is the winning combination in this serum for stressed-out skin. Helps calm inflammation and promote a healthylooking glow.
OSKIA ISOTONIC HYDRA-SERUM, £78
ELEMIS PRO-COLLAGEN MARINE MOISTURE ESSENCE, £60
FELICITY INGRAM; PIXELATE.BIZ
A lightweight hydrating serum that contains encapsulated glacier water for an instant hit of hydration, as well as niacinamide to strengthen, and antioxidants to protect.
Nourishing Sea Spring Water and moisturising marine extracts make up the basis of this essence. Use after cleansing and before serum for a splash of hydration that will help prep skin for what is to follow.
MARINE BIOLOGY Seeking super-hydration? A surge of new skincare products harness aquatic power to brilliant effect. Dive in, says Jessica Diner
ONE OCEAN BEAUTY PURIFYING OCEAN MIST CLEANSER, £30 Harnessing the power of the ocean, this brand bioferments marine microorganisms to generate actives that mimic their capacity to thrive in inhospitable environments. In short, this cleanser gets to work on detoxing and unclogging skin for a brilliantly gentle but thorough cleanse.
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CALL 01858 438 819 REF CVO20822 OR VISIT WWW.VOGUE.CO.UK/SUBSCRIBE/CVO20822 *Offer closes October 15th, 2021. The offer and gift are subject to availability and limited to UK addresses. The rate of one year for £28 is limited to direct debit payments and will be renewed at the rate of one year for £28. **Offer closes September 30th, 2021.
From top: YSL Beauty Couture Colour Clutch Eyeshadow Palette in Tuxedo, £100. Burberry Beauty Complete Eye Palette in Smokey Grey, £40. Tom Ford Beauty Eye Colour Quad in Metallic Denim, £68. Dolce & Gabbana Beauty Felineyes Intense Eyeshadow Quad in Mediterranean Blue, £55
BEAUTY
CASE STUDIES
Why settle for one shade of eyeshadow, asks Twiggy Jalloh, when the latest palettes offer an array of possibilities? Photograph by Leandro Farina 173
BEAUTY
From left: Larry King My Nanna’s Mousse, £24. Undone by George Northwood Volume Spray, £15. Dyson Flyaway Attachment, £30
GRAB & GLOW If you loved Augustinus Bader’s now-cult The Cream (and who doesn’t?), it’s time to get acquainted with The Serum, £290. An all-round skin saviour, it employs the brand’s patented TFC8 ingredient alongside vitamin C, rice bran oil, resveratrol and edelweiss to tackle skin challenges. From deeply hydrating and fending off external aggressors (such as pollution) to evening skin tone, boosting luminosity and smoothing fine lines, this all-bases-covered lightweight serum is your ticket to the glowiest skin going. In fact, clinical trials showed radiance improved by 297 per cent after 12 weeks. Your new best friend in a bottle.
VA-VAVOLUME
New season pick-me-ups, selected by Hannah Coates
NOTES ON STYLE What better way to start the new season than with a showstopping signature scent? Happily, a slew of fragrances from some of the world’s biggest fashion houses promise straight-off-the-runway confidence. Hermès’s Twilly Eau Ginger is warm, sparkling and soft, while Valentino’s Voce Viva Intensa leaves a rich and powerful trail. In its hundredth year, the eternal Chanel No5 is still the perfect companion to any occasion, including – said Marilyn Monroe – bed. And not forgetting Miss Dior from Dior, a classic floral – think rose, iris and peony – with a light finish. Above, from left: Hermès Twilly Eau Ginger eau de parfum, from £79. Valentino Voce Viva Intensa eau de parfum, from £60. Chanel No5 eau de parfum, £120. Dior Miss Dior eau de parfum, from £55
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FELICITY INGRAM; PIXELATE.BIZ
BEAUTY MUSINGS
A
s the saying goes, “The higher the hair, the closer to heaven.” Whether it’s true or not is anyone’s guess, but with a raft of new root boosters at your disposal, it’d be rude not to try. Inject some va-va-voom into hair with My Nanna’s Mousse from Larry King, which promises easy-to-achieve soft-hold volume. To give limp locks a boost, look no further than Undone by George Northwood’s Volume Spray for subtle texture and body. And for those who simply want to smooth down that halo of flyaways? Try Dyson’s new Flyaway Attachment, which clicks on to the brand’s Supersonic hairdryer. It cleverly uses the airbending Coanda effect to settle frizz and shorter hairs, while attracting longer hairs to the front for a salon-quality blowdry at home.
Mesh top, £227, Nastyamasha. Bikini bottoms, £105 as part of set, Youswim. Earrings, £215, Completedworks. For stockists, all pages, see Vogue Information
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Midi Mayfair in Ivory Croc
LONDON Virtual shopping
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WORDS: SARAH HARRIS. PHOTOGRAPH: DAN MARTENSEN. STYLING: CLARE RICHARDSON. HAIR: TOMO JIDAI. MAKE-UP: ROMY SOLEIMANI. SET DESIGN: KADU LENNOX
Paloma Elsesser wears crochet and satin dress, £3,500, Miu Miu
Cream of the crop HARVEST SEASON has a refreshing effect on the soul; those cool autumn mornings clear the mind like nothing else.
It’s life-affirming. Edie Campbell knows the feeling only too well, as she invites us to her new home (designed in tandem with her mother, architect Sophie Hicks) in a secluded corner of the English countryside. Elsewhere, Annie Leibovitz embraces far frostier climes, when she travels to Iceland with a trio of models dressed in the season’s pick of puffers, parkas and piled-up knits. It seems that now, more than ever, we look to our clothes for protection and comfort – sensuality, even – which is something Dan Martensen captures beautifully in a day on the farm with model Paloma Elsesser. Of course, the great outdoors isn’t only about rural or rugged landscapes. As far as we’re concerned, it’s wherever makes your heart sing, and for Michael Kors – currently celebrating the 40th anniversary of his brand – that’s New York City. We take his latest collection to its streets to help him mark the occasion. Zendaya, at only 25 years of age, already has a lot to celebrate. Fashion’s favourite film star and this month’s cover star has lived many lives and learnt much along the way. What a journey. 177
The world according to
Zendaya
To Generation Z, she is the ultimate influencer. To those who know her, she is – at just 25 – an old soul. Here, the actor Zendaya talks to Marisa Meltzer about what her already more than decade-long career has taught her, and why there is so much left to learn PHOTOGRAPHS BY CRAIG McDEAN. STYLING BY LAW ROACH 178
“I’m trying, I’m learning every day, I really am,” says Zendaya. “There’s so much I want to do.” Custom-made asymmetricshoulder silk-gazar minidress, to order, Valentino. Whitegold and diamond earrings, Bulgari
Velvet body, £310. Velvet skirt, £650. Both LaQuan Smith, at Browns. Tights, £38, Wolford. Suede shoes, £545, Christian Louboutin. Diamond and platinum earrings. White-gold and pavé-diamond necklace. Yellowand white-diamond ring. All Bulgari
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“We got in a nice, beautiful rhythm, where we were able to snap into focus on scenes but we had fun, too,” says Timothée Chalamet
t’s lunchtime on a spotlessly sunny day in LA, and Zendaya and I are in a corner booth in the back room of a hotel in West Hollywood discussing her workaholic tendencies. “I hate spare time,” she says, wrinkling her nose a little. “I just don’t know what I’m doing when I’m not working. I’m like, I don’t know what this [and here the actor waves her hands over her body] is.” Unlike most twentysomethings, Zendaya (her last name is Coleman but, as with Rihanna or Adele, who needs it?) already has a long and varied career behind her. A veteran of two different Disney series, she’s been working a “nine-to-five since I was 13”. Her extracurricular activities include competing on Dancing with the Stars (she was runner-up aged 16) and co-designing a capsule collection for Tommy Hilfiger (she’s also the face of Lancôme, Bulgari and Valentino). She has had a Barbie made in her likeness and met all of her heroes: Beyoncé (“so supportive”), Oprah Winfrey, Michelle Obama. With upwards of 104 million Instagram followers, next up is, presumably, world domination. Take the autumn she has planned, which will see her take over the big and small screens. In December, she will reprise her part as MJ in Marvel’s Spider-Man: No Way Home (what can she say about it? “Nothing!”), but not before she will star opposite Timothée Chalamet in the hugely anticipated remake of legendary 1965 cerebral sci-fi novel Dune this October. Then comes the second season of Sam Levinson’s defining Gen Z show Euphoria, in which Zendaya plays teen addict Rue, a role that, last year, made her the youngest woman to win outstanding lead actress in a drama series at the Emmy Awards. We meet during a gruelling week of night shoots for the latter. If not instantly recognisable (it’s those bewitching eyes and slightly downturned mouth that give her away), you’d think that 5ft 10in Zendaya would be unmissable, but she slides into the back room so quietly that it takes a moment to notice she’s arrived at the table. She’s wearing a white tank sans bra, as all cool young women do these days, Tommy Hilfiger trousers, Converse Chuck Taylors and seemingly no make-up. Half of her long hair is swept up off her face, the rest falls in soft curls reaching halfway down her back. Her phone lights up with a call from Levinson, and as she reaches for it, I spot a yellow-diamond ring (at least five carats, maybe six), from Bulgari. “This is my splurge, my treat-myself,” she smiles. “I do get a little employee discount,” she laughs shyly. “It feels like it’s gonna be an heirloom, like one day I can give it to my grandchildren.” Grandchildren? If that feels premature from a woman who, when we meet, is still 24, it is in keeping for someone who gets “called ‘Grandma’ a lot”. Like many child actors, Zendaya is someone who seems at once young and old, world-weary and a little… not naive, but open and excited to learn everything she can about life, which she’s largely seen from the vantage point of filmsets and publicity appearances. A friend’s 16-year-old son told me that when he watched her play a teenage spy on her Disney series KC Undercover, she struck him as an old soul. She laughs and nods. “I’ve been told that many, many, many times.” This year feels like Zendaya’s career is catching up to that reputation. Her last film, Malcolm & Marie – a smart two-hander also starring John David Washington, shot in crisp black and white, and released at the start of 2021 – felt like her coming-of-age moment; her transition from starlet to star. Conceived and filmed entirely in lockdown, it also marked
Zendaya’s first credit as a movie producer; one who ensured that part of the proceeds of the film went to the charity Feeding America. If Malcolm & Marie was an indication of her ambition, Dune – directed by Denis Villeneuve – shows her determination to take her career trajectory into her own hands. The film centres on the Atreides, a family of interplanetary aristocrats who have recently taken over management of the desert planet Arrakis, where spice, the most valuable substance in the universe, is mined. Zendaya set her sights on playing Chani, a mysterious figure who Paul Atreides (Chalamet), the scion of the family, keeps having visions of and who seems somehow connected to his future. “Before they were even looking at people, I heard about it,” recalls Zendaya. “And I was like, ‘I really want to get in the room.’ They weren’t looking in my direction. And I was like, ‘Hey, I’m here!’” Zendaya was eager to work with Villeneuve – “I don’t think he makes bad movies” – and had never met Chalamet before but, like everyone else, thought he was special. It seemed to her like a dream team. Villeneuve didn’t take much convincing. “I remember meeting Chani for the very first time when Zendaya made me believe that she has been raised on an alien planet, in the deep desert, in the roughest environment,” he tells me of the audition. “We all know Zendaya is a brilliant actress but I was particularly amazed by the high precision of her acting skills, her intelligence, her graceful patience and her great generosity. She’s one of the most professional artists I’ve ever worked with.” Zendaya felt like Chalamet, in particular, appreciated her presence. “I was the only other person closer to his age on the cast. So he was like, ‘Awesome, someone who understands my jokes!’” They threw dance parties in her trailer. “He just rolled up with his little boom box,” she laughs, and would play “2000s dance songs like Soulja Boy”. “We got in a nice, beautiful rhythm, where we were able to snap into focus on scenes but we had so much fun, too,” Chalamet tells me, describing Zendaya as a “total icon” and a “great friend”. They text and see each other when she’s in New York or he’s in LA. “He’s obviously a very talented actor, but just a wonderful person and a good friend to have,” she says. “Especially in this industry, it’s nice to have other people who are going through it too and that you can talk to.” Zendaya isn’t someone who wears the world too lightly. Does she have a therapist, I ask? “Yeah, of course I go to therapy,” she says. “I mean, if anybody is able to possess the financial means to go to therapy, I would recommend they do that. I think it’s a beautiful thing. You know, there’s nothing wrong with working on yourself and dealing with those things with someone who can help you, someone who can talk to you, who’s not your mom or whatever. Who has no bias.” The pandemic brought with it her “first kind of taste of sadness where you wake up and you just feel bad all day, like what the f**k is going on? What is this dark cloud that’s hovering over me and I don’t know how to get rid of it, you know?” You can see how she may be channelling some of those depressive moments into her role as the often numb Rue in Euphoria, a show that deals with subjects such as addiction, sex and violence. But, she points out, she is also “the most sober person you could ask to play this part. I can only understand it to an extent, and then I have to lean on Sam. He was an addict for many years as a teenager. And he’s been clean since he was 19 years old. That’s the thing that makes me hopeful. > 186 181
Crinoline cape embellished with Swarovski-crystals, to order, Giorgio Armani. Wool skirt, from £1,100, Burc Akyol. Greenamethyst, diamond and gold earrings, £2,340, Mateo, at Matchesfashion.com. Gold, emerald and garnet ring, from £10,670, L’Enchanteur
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Duchesse-satin dress, £1,495. Duchessesatin gloves, to order. Both Emilia Wickstead. Leather and strass sandals, £790, René Caovilla. Earrings and tights, as before
“Yeah, of course I go to therapy… it’s a beautiful thing. You know, there’s nothing wrong with working on yourself”
Zendaya and her stylist have started building her an archive. “I want to reuse my clothes. I want to be able to wear that dress again when I’m 40 and be like, ‘This old thing?’”
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Crêpe minidress, £3,505, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Leather and strass sandals, £790, René Caovilla. Oval diamond ring and rectangular diamond ring, Bulgari. Tights, as before
“I’m always like, ‘I will always need Because if I don’t work then
to work.’
everything can be gone tomorrow”
When we have all this really dark shit – especially this season breaks my heart for Rue – there’s a glimmer of hope because I know that she is a version of him.” It’s touching the way she talks with such emotion about both Levinson’s past and the fictional Rue, who is part Zendaya, part Levinson and part her own person altogether. “It’s such a brutal season,” emails Levinson, “and what I love the most about Z is she’s able to go to those dark places and then as soon as I call cut, she’s hanging out behind the monitor, eating Cheesecake Factory and cracking jokes.” He goes on, “She’s also family. We just shoot the shit all day. We talk about the show, the characters, life, movies, politics. She’s one of the most grounded human beings I know.” It seems Zendaya’s most important relationships straddle the line between business and pleasure. (“I like being on set,” she shrugs, “it’s my social life.”). She was the first major client of her stylist and close friend Law Roach, who she met when she was 14, around the time Roach owned a vintage store in Chicago. They hit it off and he took her shopping for an outfit to wear to a premiere. Now they communicate in shorthand, sending each other screenshots of inspiration – Zendaya scrolls through her phone showing me the references for her Vogue shoot, such as Cindy Crawford and other supermodels in power poses. They have also started work building her an archive of designer clothes. “I want to reuse my clothes. I want to be able to wear that dress again when I’m 40 and be like, ‘This old thing?’ Really finding good vintage pieces that I want to invest my money in.” Mostly though, she has a hard time spending on herself. “My mother’s a saver, and so I try to keep that in mind. Then my dad’s like, ‘You know, you can’t spend it when you’re dead,’ kind of thing. I’m somewhere in-between.” At 23, she took her first holiday to Greece and told her assistant Darnell Appling (they met when he was her stand-in on KC Undercover and remain incredibly close, living together in her home in the San Fernando Valley) to take her card, pay for everything, and not tell her how much so she wouldn’t stress out. It’s something she talks to her therapist about. “The hope is to have a career where you can be in a position, financially, to just do things you want to do because you enjoy the work and not have to worry about the other things,” she says. She’s not sure she’s there yet, revealing the weight of duty behind her drive. “But I’m always like, ‘I will always need to work.’ Because if I don’t work then everything can be gone tomorrow.”
Z
endaya grew up in Oakland, in the San Francisco Bay Area in Northern California. It’s a city that never lost its radical edge (it was home to the Black Panthers), though in recent years tech-world money has crept in. Zendaya has a white mother, Claire Stoermer, and a black father, Kazembe Ajamu Coleman, both teachers who are now divorced. “My parents worked very hard to provide me with everything that I could have ever wanted as a child,” she says. During the summers, her mother worked for a Shakespeare festival. “I grew up in the theatre. I was a little kid watching Richard III.” In that sense, she was the classic precocious only child surrounded by adults. Actually, she has five half-siblings – three sisters and two brothers – though they are much older. Even so, they’re tight-knit – her sister works for her and her brothers don’t live far – and they have children who are close to Zendaya’s age. To them, she’s Auntie Daya. “I like to think I’m the cool aunt, I had this whole situation the other
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day where my little niece had friends over. I’m like, ‘Do you want to hang out? Do you need a ride?’” she says in an overly eager manner. “But she seems to be not too embarrassed for me. Euphoria helps with that.” But she ribs them, too: “My niece, who is two years older than me, was wearing a side-part and skinny jeans, and I was like, ‘Uh oh, you didn’t hear? Skinny jeans are cancelled. You’re out honey, you’re out.’” Her family help ground and protect her, including in her very private but much-dissected love life. Zendaya has acted opposite pretty much all of the internet’s boyfriends: Chalamet in Dune; Jacob Elordi in Euphoria; John David Washington in Malcolm & Marie; Zac Efron in The Greatest Showman. “Yeah. I’ve seen those tweets,” she laughs. But dating her IRL is, she insists, a tall order. The list of approvals is long – “my dad, my brothers, it’s a whole thing. Good luck to whoever wants to take that on,” she scoffs. Perhaps her Spider-Man co-star Tom Holland, who has long been rumoured to be her boyfriend, is up to the task? After all, the following day, photos appear of the pair kissing in a car after our lunch. Who can blame her for being reticent to go public with something as intimate and potentially dramatic as your love life in your mid-twenties? This is someone who refused to have her first kiss on-screen as a teenage Disney star. “I remember being on Shake It Up and being like, ‘I’m not gonna do this. I’m going to kiss him on the cheek because I haven’t been kissed yet so I don’t want the kiss to be on camera,’” she remembers. Anyway, she’s not out shutting down Hollywood clubs, she’s a homebody who spends her time watching movies and listening to true-crime podcasts. During lockdown, she started painting – her Euphoria co-star Hunter Schafer bought her some oils. “If it’s not f**king Picasso first time I do it, I’m upset about it,” she says of getting to grips with the pastime. For those astrologically inclined: yes, she is a perfectionist Virgo. But for all her inclination towards perfectionism, Zendaya’s not interested in a timeline. “I’ve never been like, ‘I want to do this at this time, then from this age, I want to do this.’ One day I’ll have a family, but I’m not trying to put a number on it, it’ll happen if it’s meant to happen.” True feminism, she says, has to be intersectional and encompass “women that look like you, women who don’t look like you, women whose experiences are different than you. That means black women, that means trans women, that means all women.” Does she think about what she might tell her future children about what it’s like being black in America in this moment? She sighs. “I mean, that’s a big question. I don’t know – I don’t know what I’m going to tell them. Hopefully, they’ll be able to look at what I’ve done and my body of work and see it.” Art, she believes, is “a huge catalyst for change. If I ever do become a film-maker, I know that the leads of my films will always be black women.” And that’s certainly on her list. On set, she likes to sit near the monitors and ask questions about storyboarding shots. “I gotta hurry up and figure out how to f**king become a director, man. I’m trying, I’m learning every day, I really am. There’s so much I want to do.” Levinson predicts she’ll be “an astonishing film-maker”. Before she gets too far ahead of herself, she still has this autumn to get through. We wrap up before she heads back into another long night of filming. Still on the horizon are two press tours for Dune and SpiderMan, as well as her 25th birthday at the start of September. There won’t, she tells me, be a party this year – she’ll be in Venice, working. “It’s not a bad way to spend your birthday,” she smiles. n Dune will be released in cinemas on 21 October
Satin minidress, £965, Maximilian, at Net-a-Porter.com. Tights, shoes and ring, as before
Embellished viscose gown, £3,560, Paco Rabanne. Knickers, from £20, Cosabella. Leather and crystal sandals, £470, Aquazzura. Tights and jewellery, as before
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SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
Dating her is, she insists, a tall order. The list of approvals is long – “my dad, my brothers, it’s a whole thing. Good luck to whoever wants to take that on”
Stretch-velvet and leather legging boots, £2,430, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Earrings, as before. Prices on request unless otherwise stated. For stockists, all pages, see Vogue Information. Hair: Ursula Stephen. Make-up: Sheika Daley. Nails: Chaun Peth. Set design: Gille Mills. Production: That One Production. Digital artwork: Gloss. With thanks to Vogue entertainment director-at-large Jill Demling
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