WIN A LUXURY BREAK FOR FOUR IN STUNNING NORFOLK
OCTOBER 2021
WALK OUR COASTLINE The best back-to-nature walking
DISCOVER WHAT'S NEW IN DEVON
holidays around the UK
10
ICONIC SEASIDE FILM LOCATIONS YOU CAN VISIT
SEAFOOD CHAMPIONS
Recipes from the people who work on our seas
DREAM PROPERTIES TO BUY BESIDE THE SEA
SUPER SEASIDE HOMES FOR SALE RIGHT NOW!
£4.99
Ivy Farm, Grimston
Find your perfect coastal hideaway
With its beautiful sandy beaches, big skies, pretty villages and wonderful coastal walks, Norfolk is the perfect choice when it comes to choosing a holiday destination here in the UK. From cosy cottages to luxury retreats close to beautiful sandy beaches, in rural hotspots or in the middle of quaint market towns, we’ve got something for everyone. Many of our properties are dog friendly too, so your four-legged friend can enjoy the abundance of walks this region has to offer.
01328 887 658 norfolkhideaways.co.uk Do you have a property you would like to let with Norfolk Hideaways? If so, please get in touch with one of our experienced Property Managers today.
newowners@norfolkhideaways.co.uk The Hideaways family I CORNWALL HIDEAWAYS I COTSWOLDS HIDEAWAYS I DORSET HIDEAWAYS GLAMPING HIDEAWAYS I ISLE OF WIGHT HIDEAWAYS I SUFFOLK HIDEAWAYS I YORKSHIRE HIDEAWAYS
91 CONTENTS
Cover story
OCTOBER 2021
FEATURES DARTMOUTH COVER PHOTOGRAPH FOR SALE THROUGH MARCHAND PETIT (01548 855590, MARCHANDPETIT.CO.UK)
30 A PLAN FOR ALL SEASONS Debra and John Egan have come up with an eco-friendly new-build perfect for its exposed position on the coast 10 STUNNING BEACH FILM 40 LOCATIONS From Game of Thrones to Chariots of Fire, re-enact some famous scenes around our coast 50 INSPIRED BY THE COAST Travelling the world gave driftwood artist Josh Hibberd a new appreciation for his island home 57 A POSTCARD FROM DEVON We round up 10 exciting new developments from all around the
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shores of this Westcountry favourite 10 HOMES TO BUY BESIDE THE SEA IN DEVON Fancy a move? See what’s on the market... SEAFOOD CHAMPIONS A new book celebrates those who catch, sell and serve British seafood – we have a few of their recipes for you TALES FROM THE SEA Jane Dunford goes on a guided storytelling walk on the Sussex coast and is spellbound by stories and scenery 10 OF THE BEST CONTEMPLATIVE WALKING TRIPS Because walking is as good
£3 PER ISSUE SUBSCRIBE TO coast TODAY! Pay just £36 for 12 issues. See page 28 for this month’s deal coast ma g a zi ne.co.uk
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CONTENTS
OCTOBER 2021 for the mind as the body, why not try one of these guided or self-guided rambles? 101 REUSABLE WATER BOTTLES Ditch the single-use plastic and upgrade to an aqua option that’s better for you and the planet 104 COASTAL DISCOVERY William Thomson explores the magical world of the salt marsh as he heads to North Norfolk
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PROPERTY NEWS Up-andcoming locations around the UK, plus where to find beach huts 10 HOMES TO BUY BESIDE THE SEA From a lochside business opportunity in Scotland to an Isle of Wight apartment, here’s a selection of the latest properties for sale
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REGULARS 8 11 17 20 21 23 26 28 110 113 114 116 122
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PICTURE THIS Cove life BEACHCOMBER News, art, food, people, style and events by the sea COASTAL WARDROBE Get ready to segue into the new season, with picks from fashion stylist Polly Banks COAST CHARACTER Mike Lay, Cornwall coast COMPETITION Win a three-night beachside hotel stay for two in North Wales COASTAL CUISINE Rick Stein, Sandbanks, Dorset HOT HOTEL The Esplanade, Newquay, Cornwall SUBSCRIBE TO coast TODAY! And pay just £36 for 12 issues of your favourite magazine SEADOGS Products and holiday ideas for coastal canine owners, plus Dog of the Month coast COMPETITION Win a two-night self-catering stay for four people on the North Norfolk coast YOUR COAST Your letters, tweets and photos… WHERE TO BUY Plus how to contact coast MY COAST Your Garden Made Perfect designer Joel Bird on his favourite stretch of coastline
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WHY HARTLEY
BESPOKE VICTORIAN GLASSHOUSE Lingholm Estate, Cumbria
A REPUTATION BEYOND COMPARE Hartley Botanic’s brand heritage and reputation have been built on trust for over 80 years. They have earned an unrivalled reputation for crafting the finest Glasshouses and Greenhouses money can buy through the very highest standards of hard-won experience, craftsmanship and service.
Discover the secret of Hartley Botanic by calling 0800 783 8083 or visit www.hartley-botanic.co.uk
THE FINEST GLASSHOUSES MONEY CAN BUY The only aluminium Glasshouses and Greenhouses endorsed by the RHS ® The Royal Horticultural Society. The Royal Horticultural Society, and its logo, are trade marks of The Royal Horticultural Society (Registered Charity No 222879/SC038262) and used under licence from RHS Enterprises Limited.
A local agency with
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Speak to the award-winning experts…
Whether you’re after a dog-friendly break, beachside cottage or luxury family home, we’re sure we have the ideal escape for you. Choose from over 900 coastal, waterside and rural cottages throughout the South West. Considering letting your holiday home? Our experienced team of property managers have the knowledge to ensure that your investment fulfils its potential throughout the year. We’re privately owned and locally based, meaning we’re always on hand to meet owners, advise guests and pop to properties should an issue arise. Call us now for free and honest advice.
For special offers and a free copy of our brochure call us or check out our website.
www.toadhallcottages.co.uk 01548 853089 or 0800 6101122
ed’s LETTER
WELCOME re you getting the most out of being part of the lovely coast community? Did you know that you can sign up for Beachcomber, our free weekly e-newsletter, delivered to your inbox on a Saturday morning, packed full of inspirational travel ideas, foodie stories, reviews and news from the shoreline of the British Isles? For those who want to move to the coast, we also have a Property e-newsletter that is sent out on Sunday mornings, so you can browse through the latest coastal homes to buy, tips on great locations and discover our specially chosen Property of the Week. To get this advance information and keep ahead of other potential buyers, input your details at coastmagazine.co.uk/content/coastnewsletter-sign, and you’ll even get a free digital copy of our Move to the Coast Special Edition, which is the perfect guide for making your dream of living by the sea a reality. Do also keep any eye out for our special Arts and Crafts Saltwater Living, which can be ordered at the Kelsey shop here: shop.kelsey.co.uk/issue/list/publication/CSL. These beautiful publications bring together some of our favourite features under specific subjects into one, single issue, so our latest edition is must for all artists and makers and those who like to discover and purchase unique work inspired by the coastline of the British Isles.
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Alex Fisher, Editor-in-Chief @alexfishermedia
You can email us at coast coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk. For existing subscription queries, please use the link https://help. kelsey.co.uk. For new subscription offers, go to https://shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/COA. To buy a single issue, go to https://shop.kelsey.co.uk/issue/COA. To receive our free weekly newsletter, sign up at coastmagazine.co.uk/newsletter.
THE CREW This month’s contributors share their coastal musings JENNY JEFFERIES Jenny is a South Cambridgeshire farmer’s wife and mother to two girls. An enthusiastic home cook, she’s the author of For the Love of the Sea, a story cookbook published by Meze Publishing that celebrates the British seafood community. As she researched she discovered that 90% of people processing our seafood are women, who also make up over half the entire workforce. Turn to page 68 to fall back in love with British seafood, to learn all about the skills and passion of those involved and to try out a selection of delicious accompanying recipes.
RICHARD GADSBY Richard is an interiors and lifestyle photographer covering much of the south coast. He recently moved from London to rural Kent and began exploring the region’s varied coastline, including Camber Sands, where this month’s home on page 30 is located. Rye-based RX Architects introduced him to the Egan family and their new shoreline property. It has a wide, open-plan design framing the beach from every angle so that you feel part of the sea and the sky. He likens the imposing exterior of black cladding to a protective shell, keeping the house snug against the elements.
NICOLA SMITH Nicola is a freelance journalist and author living in Cornwall who spends her time cycling, paddleboarding and walking around the glorious Cornish coastline and countryside. She writes for a range of publications and recently published her first novel, A Degree of Uncertainty, inspired by Cornish communities. On page 50, she meets driftwood artist Josh Hibberd, who works from a small studio on the Isle of Wight. She loves the way he captures iconic sites and beaches of the West Wight on textured driftwood, gathered after autumn and winter storms.
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COVE LIFE
Photographer Niall Meehan grew up in Sandycove in County Dublin and describes those early years as ‘seaaffected’ as he splashed around in the Dún Laoghaire seawater baths, graduating to swimming in Sandycove Harbour and diving off the Forty Foot promontory. Now, he lives with his own family in County Wicklow, and his passion for the sea is undimmed, evocatively expressed in his series of Sea Studio photographic prints. ‘I’m fortunate to be able to swim at sunrise, year round, in the cool waters of the Irish Sea. My love of sea swimming and of image-making have become one, to the point where I don’t know if I go for a swim and take photographs or go to take photographs that happen to be in the sea,’ says Niall. This capture, called The Cove, was taken at the seaside resort of Greystones in Wicklow and stars a glossy frond of Irish Moss, part of his Sea Flora collection of prints. Find out more about Niall’s work and browse prints for sale at seastudio.ie.
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APARTMENTS @ THE SANDS COOLSPIRiT has five, 5-Star, self-catering holiday apartments in The Sands Complex on the beach in North Bay, Scarborough. Two are Sea-View, three Non-Sea View, with the Non-Sea View including a free beach hut. Comfy beds, super-fast Wi-Fi, Nespresso coffee machines, and the Sea-View ones are dog-friendly as well. With a ‘Free Beach Hut’ apartment, you have the use of a beach hut for the duration of your stay, plus there is free electric car charging when you stay in a COOLSPIRiT apartment.
www.coolspiritapartments.co.uk
• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
BEACHCOMBER
Every month, we trawl the nation’s coastline to bring you news of the people, places and exciting goings-on that are worth knowing about
FIND OF THE MONTH Inspired by the unspoilt sandy coastlines of Guernsey, Sark and Alderney in the Channel Islands, illustrator Henri Ball’s nostalgic posters cost from £22 for an unframed print measuring 30cm x 40cm (hbstudioprints.com). coast ma gaz in e .co.uk
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• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
CATCH OF THE DAY 1 THESE CLOTHES PEGS NONA pegs are UK-made from discarded fishing nets. Peg your linen in lagoon blue or kelp forest green – shipping is free and a portion from each sale goes to ocean conservation charities (£15/ 20 pegs, madebynona.com).
2 THIS CHOCOLATE
3 THIS VASE
4 THIS TEA TOWEL
Delicate shards of handharvested Maldon Sea Salt bring out the flavours of this 71% cacao, vegan dark chocolate. Love Cocoa will plant a tree in Northern Cameroon for every bar bought (£4, lovecocoa.com).
A stylish vessel for flowers or keepsakes, this Quartz Rose Pebble Vase is hand-thrown by Denby’s master potter using local stoneware clay. It has a 10-year guarantee and UK delivery is free (£60, denbypottery.com).
Featuring the red funnels of iconic Firth of Clyde paddle steamer the Waverley, this is part of a new Mid-century collection of furnishings celebrating the Isle of Bute from Sarah Jane Helmsley (£15, sjhupholstery.com).
WHAT’S FLOATING YOUR BOAT? Let us know on our Facebook page, facebook.com/coastmagazine, or email us at coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk
DIVING NEW DEPTHS Ghost Fishing UK, a conservation charity that helps clear the sea of dangerous, abandoned fishing gear, has been awarded ‘Best Plastic Campaign’ at this year’s Plastic Free Awards. The charity relies on volunteer divers, who are put through an intensive three-day training course to prepare them for the risky job of retrieving ghost nets. Working with estimations that 640,000 tonnes of fishing gear is lost to the sea each year, the charity has set up a system for vessels to report lost gear anonymously. Find out more at ghostfishing.co.uk/report.
DIVER PHOTOGRAPH RICH WALKER/GHOST FISHING UK
A tribute at sea
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A new Shannon class lifeboat will proudly carry the names of thousands of loved ones when it launches on service at Wells-next-the-Sea, North Norfolk, next year, thanks to the latest fundraising campaign from the RNLI. The charity’s ‘Launch a Memory’ campaign asks supporters to submit the name of a much missed loved one, along with a suggested donation of £50. The names received will go on to be printed on the decal of a new Shannon class lifeboat, allowing them to be by the side of the lifeboat crew every time they launch. To find out more, visit RNLI.org/bytheirside.
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BOOK of the MONTH
Micro lands Ian Crofton’s latest book explores the variety, scale and magnificence of the pieces of land hugging and separating from England’s edges. Journeying from Lindisfarne to the Isles of Scilly via Canvey, Wallasea, the Isle of Wight and more, Ian’s evocative prose seems all the more vital in light of a near-death experience in 2015 when, a year into his island research, he suffered a major brain injury while rock climbing. A long road to recovery gradually saw a return to climbing on Lundy, and the completion of a fascinating study about what it means to exist on the fringes. Fringed with Mud and Pearls: An Island Odyssey by Ian Crofton (£20, hardback, Birlinn).
• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
DISH OF THE MONTH
Crab, Lemon & Herb Tartines
THE SLICE IS RIGHT For beach suppers, camping trips and lazy weekends, we love next-day-delivered, home-baked pizza kits from artisan pizza delivery company, Birtelli’s. Choose from either a handcrafted, gluten-free base or dough balls (for pizza ovens only) and top with fresh, British, award-winning produce including The Vegan Garden, Garlic and Fennel Salami and the Six Nations starring English smoked ham, Irish cheddar and French garlic. The 2-pizza kit starts from £16.99 (excluding P&P) and arrives in sustainable packaging (birtellis.co.uk/ pizza-kits).
Perfect for a light lunch, or quarter the toast to make mini tartines for serving with drinks. By Jassy Davis
• 1 lemon • A handful of chives • 100g crème fraîche • 100g white Cornish crab meat • Sea salt
• Freshly ground pepper • 4 thick slices of seven seeded sourdough
BIKE PHOTOGRAPH EXPLORE KENT
Method (Serves 2-4) 1. Finely grate the zest from half the lemon into a mixing bowl. Finely chop the chives and add most of them to the bowl (but keep a pinch back for garnishing). Add the crème fraîche and most of the crab meat (keeping a little back for garnishing). 2. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and stir together to mix. Taste and add a pinch more salt or pepper if you think it needs it. 3. Toast the slices of bread till golden. Spoon the crab, lemon and herb crème fraîche over the toast. Top with the chives and any remaining crab meat. Pare a little extra zest off the lemon and sprinkle over the top. 4. Serve with wedges of lemon on the side for squeezing. Recipe: abelandcole.co.uk/recipes
On your bike Soaking up the delights of the South East coast just got ‘wheely’ exciting, thanks to a brand-new ‘Pier to Pier’ cycle trail devised by Active Ramsgate in Kent. Beginning at Ramsgate Pier, a one-way trip takes cyclists down the coast to Deal Pier via 12.9 miles of dedicated cycle paths, bridleways and country lanes that traverse caves, tunnels, cliff-tops, sand dunes and a nature reserve, as well as the medieval town of Sandwich. To find out more and download a free guide, visit ramsgatetown.org/activeramsgate/cyclingkent-holidays. coast ma gaz in e .co.uk
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• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •
SHOP OF THE MONTH Aunty Betty’s, Stonehaven, Aberdeen
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ce-creams, puddings, sweets, cakes and coffee: a trip to Aunty Betty’s is all the sweeter thanks to its salty seaside location on the prom at Stonehaven. Established nearly 15 years ago, Aunty Betty’s takes puds seriously: luxury, handmade ice-creams come in 24 flavours including bramble, cherry ripple, tablet and honeycomb, which are worked into a seasonal menu of sundaes, cookie sandwiches, ice-cream cakes, hot-filled doughnuts and milkshakes, all made on site. Sweeties include vintage classics such as pear drops, mint humbugs and chocolate raisins, and there are even treats for Aunty Betty’s many four-legged regulars (01569 760601, auntybettys.com).
CITIZEN SCIENCE PHOTOGRAPH ORCA
Become a citizen scientist This autumn, wildlife lovers can benefit from a range of new marine eco-courses thanks to a new partnership from outdoor education charity The Field Studies Council and marine conservation charity, ORCA. Two of the courses, Discovering Marine Mammals and Conservation of Marine Mammals, will run online with an aim to increase the number of people who have an interest in understanding the marine mammals living in British waters and to help safeguard species against decline. For more information on dates and costs, visit field-studies-council.org/courses-andexperiences.
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Subtle checks with the serene feel of nature
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coast FASHION
HER COASTAL WARDROBE
Enjoy the sunshine and light rains of the autumn equinox in our pick of clothing and accessories chosen by fashion stylist Polly Banks
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1 Natural History Museum print unisex waterproof poncho/shelter, £95, Finisterre 2 Straw hat, £22.50, Accessorize 3 Limited-edition Dream On T-shirt, £35, Radish 4 Whistles high-waist barrel-leg jeans, £95, Freemans 5 Queenie trainers, £165, Sante + Wade 6 Layla midi dress, £180, Radish 7 Juniper clog sandals, £85, Dune 8 Floral tote bag, £30, Cath Kidston For where to buy, see Stockists, page 116
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HERITAGE CLOTHING FROM NORFOLK. carriercompany.co.uk +44 ( 0 ) 1328 820699
Creekside Cottages Near Falmouth, Cornwall
Situated by the wooded creeks around the Falmouth Estuary and the sailing waters of the Carrick Roads, we offer a fine collection of individual waters edge, rural and village cottages sleeping from 2-10 people. Whatever the time of year, there is always something happening that makes Cornwall special; perfect for family and friends.
Contact us via 01326 375972 or martin@creeksidecottages.co.uk www.creeksidecottages.co.uk
01538 371471
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scabetti.co.uk
Image shows a Shoal286 in a private residence in the Netherlands. Photography courtesy of client.
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coast FASHION
HIS COASTAL WARDROBE
Segue into the new season in garb that’s relaxed, stylish and just a bit cutting edge, selected by fashion stylist Polly Banks
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1 Yellow hoodie, £150, Levi’s Vintage Clothing 2 Nostalgia print T-shirt, £25, FatFace 3 Osark aviator sunglasses, £30, Dune 4 Cheetah buttonthrough fleece £190, Levi’s Vintage Clothing 5 Vans x Spongebob trainers, £85, Very 6 Navy side-stripe joggers, £45, Crew Clothing 7 Nick the Messenger bag, £100, Millican 8 Embossed Vittore Italian leather wallet, £104.99, Getting Personal For where to buy, see Stockists, page 116
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COAST CHARACTER Elegance incarnate on the ocean, professional longboarder Mike Lay cut his teeth on Cornish waves and after years of competing around the world has returned home to the Penwith Heritage Coast to settle down WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER
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grew up in St Just, a few miles inland from the West Cornwall coast. It was pivotal to my upbringing and remains such an intrinsic part of my being. The coastline is very rugged; in the summer it can feel tropical, but in the winter it’s elemental and moody. You’re at the end of the country, next stop Bay of Biscay, and there’s a powerful feeling of finality and solace with the land behind you and a mass of ocean ahead. I learned to surf at Sennen Cove and Gwynver Beach with a juniors club, later specialising in longboarding, which is better suited to the Cornish waves. Given free rein, I’d surf every day, all day long,
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PHOTOGRAPH JAMES WARBEY
because it’s all-encompassing and the search for the perfect wave is so compelling. You can surf all year round here – if Sennen and Gwynver are wild, the Bay of Penzance is more sheltered. After a decade of travelling to surfing competitions and to ride waves for pleasure all over the world, I’m laying down new roots here now with my wife Frankie, who’s from Jersey. I can’t think of a better place to be, amidst this like-minded community where beach culture is so significant. We’ve got a little house with a few acres of land and we’re planning what we’re going to do here. It’s an oasis of calm.
I take our dog Ronnie out for lots of walks and I find it really rewarding discovering the ancient history of this part of Cornwall, which includes Bronze Age settlements and barrows. In the summer, I work as a beach lifeguard at Gwynver, one of the most exposed beaches in the UK, with its strong rip currents. One rescue a day is usual but it can be as many as six. Stay well within your depth would be my best advice. Mike Lay is brand ambassador for Finisterre (finesterre.com). He’s also an avid supporter of Surfers Against Sewage and its #millionmilebeachclean. Follow him on Instagram at @laymike.
coast PROMOTION
WIN A BEACH ESCAPE FOR TWO IN NORTH WALES This month, coast has teamed up with The Beaches Hotel to celebrate its move to 4 Stars with a three-night stay for two on the Welsh coast
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hether gazing out of picture windows or sipping Prosecco on the terrace, it’s all about the sea and sunsets at The Beaches Hotel in Prestatyn. Surrender to magnificent views of the North Wales coast and dramatic Clwydian Hills range in one of Britain’s few hotels with its own Blue Flag Beach. The Wales Coast Path and NCN5 cycle route are on the doorstep, with Gronant Dunes, Offa’s Dyke National Trail, Talacre Beach and Dyserth Waterfall as well as
charming independent shops, Welsh castles and golf courses, all close by. Extensively refurbished, The Beaches Hotel promises a warm ‘home-fromhome’ welcome, plus comfortable wellappointed bedrooms and swimming pool, all within easy access of the A55 and North West England.
YOUR PRIZE A three-night stay for two at The Beaches Hotel in Prestatyn, North Wales, with one
three-course evening meal for two and a welcome bottle of Prosecco. Learn more at thebeacheshotel.com.
HOW TO ENTER Please go to the competition page at coastmagazine.co.uk and answer this question by 31 October: Where is The Beaches Hotel located? A. Portstewart B. Prestatyn C. Pitlochry
TERMS AND CONDITIONS Prize consists of a three-night stay for two people, with one three-course meal for two in the hotel’s Bryn Restaurant or Promenade Bistro Bar and a bottle of Prosecco on arrival. Prize is non-transferable. Prize is valid until 30 November 2022 for stays within the period and is subject to availability. Travel and transfers are not included. Stay dates exclude Christmas & New Year 2021, 12-14 February 2022 and 9-14 April 2022. Prize is for a maximum of two people only. Prize is non-refundable and no cash alternative is available. Entries close at midnight on 31 October. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. Open to residents of the UK aged over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media, Castle Collection, The Beaches Hotel and their family members are not eligible to win. Only one entry permitted per person, no bulk entries will be accepted. The first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. Our winner will be notified within 28 days. If our winner fails to respond after three attempts at contact, a new winner will be drawn. There is no cash alternative and the prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient, Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in seeking to resolve the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods, and in that event, no financial compensation would be payable by Kelsey Media or its affiliates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition, if circumstances change that are beyond our control. coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Here at Kelsey Media we take your privacy seriously and will only use your personal information to provide the products and services you have requested from us. We will only contact you with news and special offers via the preferences you have indicated. We will never share your information with any third party without your consent. You can view our full Privacy Policy at kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy
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10 WOODLANDS – PENTIRE CRESCENT – NEWQUAY Frontline Riverside Property | Four Double Bedrooms Crestron Smart Home Automation | Bespoke Kitchen With Gaggenau Appliances Luxury six Person hot Tub | Breath-taking Estuary Views | Two Private Balconies & Gardens Two Private parking Spaces
£1,500,000 (freehold)
T: 01637 850850 | E: sales@dba.estate | www.davidball-luxury.co.uk
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COASTAL CUISINE
SHELLFISH PHOTOGRAPH © LUCY RICHARDS RESTAURANT & BAR PHOTOGRAPHS © JAMES RAM DOVER SOLE PHOTOGRAPH DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY
Rick Stein, Sandbanks, Dorset
WHET MY APPETITE. This is exactly the kind of location where fish should be eaten. With stunning views over Poole Harbour, you can listen to the waves lapping on the shore while eating the finest seafood available. You have a problem though, as the menu here is quite extensive and it’s really hard to choose. Ranging from traditional fish and chips to Szechuan squid, sashimi of tuna or Indonesian seafood curry, there’s something to suit all seafood lovers. WHAT’S ON THE MENU? A sublime array of everything the sea offers. Whet your appetite with a small appetiser of a Cornish oyster on ice, or a little salt cod brandade with black olive tapenade. For starters we shared the Sashimi of tuna, sea bass, salmon and scallop, served with wasabi, mooli, pickled ginger and soy dipping sauce. Fresh and light, there was enough for two people. For mains, I chose the updated version of Lobster Thermidor, which is a lighter dish with less cheese, but still delicious and wonderful to know that they come from our shores. My companion ordered the Dover Sole a la Meunière, which was beautiful cooked and brought to the table whole, then skilfully filleted, before being served with beurre noisette and some broccoli with salsa verde. The fish, we
were advised, retains more flavour when cooked on the bone, rather than being filleted prior to cooking. It was just as fish should be – moist, tender, fresh and melt-in-the-mouth delicious. HOW’S THE MOOD? Slick and stylish, with soft, pale blue, leather seating and crisp, white tablecloths. CAN I SEE THE SEA? There are panoramic views of Poole Harbour – when you book, ask to sit upstairs where you can see the water. If you walk to the other side of the peninsula, you will find sandy beaches where you can take a dip if the sun is shining. WHAT’S THE DAMAGE? Can be pricey, depending on what you order. A starter of mackerel with fennel seeds is a very reasonable £7.95, but if you’d prefer the Cornish Crab Wakame you’ll pay £16.95. Fish mains start at £17.95 for fish and chips, rising to £44.95 for a half lobster. Vegetarians can eat for less, with a Sri Lankan cashew nut curry main course for just £15.95. OPENING TIMES. Open every day from 12 noon to 10pm, with coffee being served from 10am. You can book online at rickstein.com or call 01202 076443. Alex Fisher @alexfishermedia
ABOVE Sandbanks is home to this smart Rick Stein restaurant, with its superior seafood and fish dishes and panoramic view of the harbour
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ENJOY A TASTE OF ISLAND LIFE THIS AUTUMN Autumn brings rich colours to the Isle of Man’s unique landscapes, making it a great time to explore this magical place and its rich foodie heritage
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ome autumn the Isle of Man offers an ideal mix of adventure, romance and escapism. Immerse yourself in the season’s ever-changing tapestry of colours across 18 national glens, get wrapped up and brave the elements along coastal footpaths spanning over 100 miles, reward yourself with a hot chocolate or a pint of the island’s finest ales, or kick back and recharge in one of many cosy hideaways. The Isle of Man’s geography makes it the ideal place to discover our unique landscape in your own time and, with autumn bringing its rich, vibrant colours, a walk through one of its glens is a truly magical experience. Enchanting Ballaglass Glen, located north of Laxey on the east coast, is a favourite with families and couples alike. Its sparkling streams and fern-filled woodland provides the perfect opportunity to reconnect in nature. From freshly caught seafood and flavoursome meat to creamy Manx cheeses and locally brewed ales and ciders, the Isle of Man’s forward-thinking food scene – which stands alongside the best in the UK – is built upon wonderful local produce. Savour the flavours of the
Irish Sea at The Boatyard, on historic Peel quayside on the island’s west coast. Or for lovers of the Isle of Man’s famous TT races, and those who just love quintessential British classics, Victory Café, located on the 31st milestone of the TT Course, is the place to go to curb those comfort food cravings. To finish your day in style, a trip north to the Fynoderee Distillery Tasting Bar is highly recommended. Serving up a full range of uniquely blended gins and vodka using Manx-grown or locally foraged botanicals, your taste buds will be tingling at their ‘fyntastic’ cocktails. There really is no better tonic than escaping to a quaint cottage to unwind and with 40% of this island uninhabited, there’s plenty of wide-open space to live the rural dream. From the wildest coast to the deepest countryside, the Isle of Man has a real mix of accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets. ‘Traa dy liooar’ is an old Manx Gaelic saying that translates as ‘time enough’, a concept that values quality of life – take your time to really enjoy a taste of island life in the Isle of Man this autumn. Discover more at: visitisleofman.com.
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coast TRAVEL
HOT HOTEL THE ESPLANADE, NEWQUAY, CORNWALL
WHAT’S THE BUZZ? The owners of The Esplanade in Newquay spent the lockdown rethinking and renovating the entire premises, adding a cute 30-seat cinema, redecorating all of the rooms and creating a plush cocktail bar with a view to becoming the perfect destination for family holidays that can be enjoyed as much by the parents as the children. Already benefiting from a fantastic location overlooking popular surf beach, Fistral Bay, the hotel now caters for rainy days, with a luxurious heated indoor pool with a paddling area, sauna and jacuzzi, an outdoor pirate ship
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for little ones to enjoy while parents relax, an indoor soft-play area and kids’ entertainment. Older children can enjoy a surf lesson, with or without their parents, with Quiksilver Surf School, which offers a friendly service for all abilities. WHAT ARE THE ROOMS LIKE? The hotel has reduced its number of bedrooms from 95 to 80 in order to create bigger rooms to accommodate larger families. Simple sand and sky-blue furnishings combine with coastal artwork to create a relaxed, beachy ambience. Soft dressing gowns and toiletries are provided, along
with free WIFI and coffee and tea-making facilities. BEST SEA VIEW? The uninterrupted views over Fistral Beach are really stunning. I woke early one morning and strolled out, barefoot, to watch the sunrise from the large stretch of sandy beach. To make the most of this amazing location, make sure you book a room with a sea view. There are also great views of the beach from the restaurant. HOW ABOUT THE FOOD? The extensive on-site Cove Restaurant offers a good breakfast, which includes favourites such
The Esplanade on Fistral Beach offers good food, stylish rooms and a stunning location that will delight families and couples alike
as avocado on toast and pancakes with bacon and maple syrup. There are also vegan and vegetarian options. The restaurant serves brunch, lunch and supper, which includes classic pizzas and burgers, along with a range of other popular dishes, such as local mussels in a cream, white wine and parsley sauce and a good super-food salad with quinoa, asparagus and pomegranate. The portions are generally generous, and dishes are easy to share. Pizzas start at £12, fish and chips are priced at £14 and a super-food salad is £9.
ANY ECO-CREDENTIALS? The Esplanade has been awarded the Bronze Green Tourism Award and strives to reduce its environmental impact. Hotel toiletries are from Gaia, and are handmade in the UK using natural ingredients. WHAT WILL IT COST? Prices start from £160 for a standard double room. Book direct for the best rates and to find the hotel’s special breaks and packages. HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01637 873333 or visit esplanadehotelnewquay.co.uk. Alex Fisher @alexfishermedia
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Subscribe to coast today to fill your month with vitamin sea! Become part of our lovely coast community and discover the best places for amazing staycations, where to find deserted sandy beaches, excellent restaurants with sea views, and incredible wildlife encounters. Learn about the fascinating history and culture on our shores, and meet artists and makers who will share their craft tips with you, plus top chefs who share their recipes! As well as providing an immersive travel experience, we also seek out great coastal properties for sale by the sea every month. Those who are looking to move to the coast can learn about up-and-coming seaside locations, and find advice on decorating your home and making the most of a coastal life. Guarantee your copy every month with a subscription to coast and have each issue delivered directly to your door – sent out in plastic-free, recyclable, biodegradable, carbon-balanced paper envelopes – while saving 39% on the shop price with this great offer. Join the coast community today!
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A PLAN FOR ALL SEASONS Debra and John Egan have created an eco new build on the East Sussex coast – a robust yet natural-looking property, perfectly designed to withstand the harsh and changeable seaside conditions WORDS AMY MAYNARD PHOTOGRAPHS RICHARD GADSBY
coast LIVING
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PREVIOUS SPREAD The Sea House sits right on the beach at Camber Sands and was inspired by modern homes in Switzerland and beach houses in Scandinavia LEFT John and Debra Egan at The Sea House ABOVE The open-plan space was created to accommodate the couple’s friends and family. The kitchen units were custom-made by Chartwood Design. Simple Scandi-style furniture complements the scheme: the table, chairs and bench are from Adventures In Furniture
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ebra and John Egan were already familiar with the beautiful stretch of coast at Camber Sands in East Sussex when they got wind of a run-down beach-front property that was going on the market. The couple used to visit friends in the area and had fallen under its spell, and so they were thrilled when they managed to secure the prime spot overlooking the beach. The pair then set about getting plans drawn up to replace the existing threebedroom dwelling with a sleek, eco new build. Psychotherapist Debra and retail consultant John are now reaping the rewards of three years of hard work and, along with RX Architects, have created
a modern masterpiece, which won Small House Of The Year in The Sunday Times British Homes Awards in 2019. The four-bedroom home is the perfect retreat for the Egans, who divide their time between Camber Sands and a flat in London’s Marylebone. The Sea House offers plenty of space for their grown-up children, Charlotte and Lizzie, to visit, along with their partners and Charlotte’s baby Florence, who was born in 2019. ‘We knew that we wanted to create something environmentally friendly and sustainable,’ explains Debra. ‘We had previously lived in a modern house in Switzerland, featuring lots of wood, and we wanted something along those lines.’ The buying process was a fraught one,
however, culminating in a bidding war. After completion the duo, determined to use local companies where possible, began their search for architects in East Sussex. Rye-based firm RX cropped up, and their contemporary design appealed. ‘Top of our list of priorities was maximising the views from inside the house,’ Debra says. The end result is simple, self-sufficient luxury, with plenty of large windows for enjoying that vista. ‘I looked at how Scandinavians do beach houses and I think we have achieved that.’ Also of utmost importance to the Egans was to create something that worked in harmony with the beach landscape. ‘We were very keen to build something with a focus on
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LEFT Making the most of spectacular views was a must ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Little details add to the comfy Scandi vibe; natural materials were used as much as possible; Debra in the kitchen
sustainability that fitted with the environment and exposed nature of the site,’ says Debra. ‘We have used natural materials as much as possible. We also have solar panels, a fresh-air circulating system and a ground-source heat pump. The bills are unbelievably low.’ The couple’s brief included an openplan space with a good flow downstairs. ‘You can have a lot of people in the kitchen and no one gets in anyone’s way,’ she adds. As well as all the usual mod-cons, the kitchen features a built-in steam oven and a Quooker boiling-water tap. Debra and John love to cook and make use of the abundance of fresh
produce available in the vicinity. ‘We can’t believe the quality of the fresh fish and meat that you can find in the local area,’ Debra says. A must for John was a big TV so they created his ‘man cave’, complete with media system. Then there is a larder and a wet room/WC, but otherwise the downstairs is totally open plan. There is also a self-contained studio in the courtyard. Upstairs, the couple wanted to continue the Scandi feel, using a neutral palette and natural materials. The first floor has three bedrooms (one of them en suite), an additional sitting area, utility and a family bathroom. The top
THINGS TO DO NEARBY • Go to Tillingham Winery in Rye for contemporary dining and homeproduced interesting wine. The restaurant overlooks the vineyard with far-reaching views of Rye or you can enjoy wood-fired pizza in the outdoor bar. • Visit Dungeness and have a bite to eat at The Snack Shack. • Try the homemade pies at The Standard Inn, Rye. • Go kitesurfing on Camber Sands, then have lunch at The Gallivant. • Explore the Weald’s historic villages and its tales of smuggling – such as Bodiam (with its moated castle), Hawkhurst and Flimwell (have lunch at The Weald Smokery in Ticehurst).
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LEFT The Sea House is light, airy and spacious with a bespoke wood and steel staircase linking the floors ABOVE Go to sleep to the sound of the waves and wake to a sunrise over the sea RIGHT The bathroom features floor tiles from Fired Earth
floor, meanwhile, houses the master suite. ‘When the tide is high it almost feels like being on a boat,’ adds Debra. Planning was pretty straightforward but, when it came to the build, the weather conditions were a continuing battle. The site was exposed and the weather was very unpredictable. During the winter months it was challenging, and there were a lot of delays. But luckily Debra and John were on the same page when it came to the design. The one thing they argued about, however, was the complicated sound system. ‘I didn’t want it, but in the end I gave in,’ admits Debra, ‘and now I can’t work it!’ The house has transformed the way the couple live. ‘When we are at the flat in London, I can’t wait to visit the beach house,’ she says. ‘The summer is
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ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Open the floor-to-ceiling windows and let in the fresh sea breeze; the exterior is clad in wood and features vast amounts of glazing to maximise the views from inside the property; the beach at Camber Sands on the Sussex coast OPPOSITE Seafront table guaranteed
magical and I love to swim in the sea. The previous owner had lived here her entire life and swam in the sea every single day.’ Although they love being down by the coast during the warmer weather, the windswept winter months are also a draw. ‘I love the roaring fire and the wild sea outside,’ remarks Debra. What’s struck them most about the position of the house is how much of a conversation piece it is. ‘It is amazing how many people who walk past on the beach want to talk,’ she says, admitting that this took a bit of getting used to at
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first, but The Sea House offers plenty of spots to retreat to. ‘If you want to be sociable you can be on the patio or in the garden, but you have the balance and can escape to the first-floor balcony or top-floor terrace if you want privacy,’ she explains. Spending time in their seaside retreat never fails to lift their spirits. ‘Everyone who comes to the beach is in a good mood, it’s a very happy place.’ The Egans’ house is available for holiday lets. Visit the-seahouse.com for more information.
SOURCEBOOK Architect: RX Architects, 01797 217220, rxarchitects.com Kitchen and bathroom units: Chartwood Design, 07545 238800, chartwooddesign.com Kitchen worktops: StoneWrightUK, 01233 650944, stonewrightuk.com Kitchen taps: VOLA, home.vola.com Boiling-water tap: Quooker, 0345 8333555, quooker.co.uk Kitchen floor tiles: Domus, 0208 4819500, domusgroup.com Appliances: Gaggenau, gaggenau.com Bathroom sanitary ware: Duravit, 01980 286680, duravit.co.uk Bathroom taps: Vado. 01934 744466, vado.com Bathroom tiles: Fired Earth, 01295 812088, firedearth.com
‘When the tide is high, it almost feels like being on a boat’
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BEACH FILM LOCATIONS Our coastline has been the backdrop for many iconic movie and TV moments – discover 10 of the best places to visit, where you can relive these moments when the silver screen met the sparkling sea WORDS JENNY OLDAKER
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2 ith a coastline that ranges from dramatic soaring cliff faces to wide expanses of golden sand, quaint pebbled coves and bustling resorts, the British Isles enjoys a staggering diversity of landscapes. As such, our shoreline has been the backdrop to a tremendous variety of filming projects over the years. Many of the coastal destinations used in acclaimed TV shows and films have become pilgrimage sites for fans, and if you’d like to visit these familiar sights and follow in the footsteps of the characters, we’ve picked out the most interesting locations bathed in limelight.
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HARRY POTTER & THE DEATHLY HALLOWS (PARTS 1 & 2) FRESHWATER WEST, PEMBROKESHIRE Freshwater West is the spectacular setting for Shell Cottage in both the Deathly Hallows films, and the scenes of Dobby the house-elf’s death and burial were filmed here (pictured on previous pages). As such, the beach has become a magnet for Harry Potter fans. Visitors now come not just for golden sand and
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2 excellent surfing, but also to pay tribute to Dobby, laying socks and decorated rocks at his ‘grave’, which can be found in the dunes that line the beach. It is indeed ‘such a beautiful place to be with friends’, as Dobby observes in his final moments.
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GAME OF THRONES BALLINTOY HARBOUR, COUNTY ANTRIM
Global smash hit TV series Game of Thrones was famously filmed at a number of locations across Northern Ireland and
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today a host of themed maps and tours are on offer to help fans to walk in the characters’ footsteps. Ballintoy Harbour was used to film scenes of Pyke in the Iron Islands, home of the Greyjoys. This picturesque location was transformed into the moody Lordsport, the main port of Pyke, first seen in series two, when Theon Greyjoy (Alfie Allen) returns home after his years living at Winterfell with the Starks. Its lovely views and peaceful atmosphere make it a fantastic place to visit even if you’re not a fan of the Seven Kingdoms.
PHOTOGRAPH 2, TOP © TOURISM IRELAND/MATTHEW WOODHOUSE PHOTOGRAPH 2, ABOVE © TOURISM IRELAND
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PHOTOGRAPH 3, TOP VISIT CORNWALL/MATTHEW JESSOP PHOTOGRAPH 3, MIDDLE VISIT CORNWALL PHOTOGRAPH 4 CROWN COPYRIGHT VISIT WALES (2021)
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The popularity of the BBC’s Poldark series is arguably bolstered by the beautiful Cornish locations in which it is filmed. As well as the pretty countryside inland, a number of beaches across the county featured in the show – one of which is Porthgwarra Beach. This tiny fishing cove has been used in Poldark several times, perhaps most memorably when Ross (Aidan Turner) takes a naked dip in the sea, watched from the cliff top by Demelza (Eleanor Tomlinson). The timeless beauty of the location makes it easy to believe it is part of the 18th-century world that’s conjured up by the show.
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POLDARK PORTHGWARRA, CORNWALL
GAVIN & STACEY BARRY ISLAND, GLAMORGAN
Barry Island is home to colourful beach huts, a bustling pleasure park, flashy arcades and a wide expanse of inviting sand. It is also the setting for much of the action in Gavin & Stacey, the BBC’s beloved comedy series about long-distance love. It’s easy to spot famous sights from the series too – Marco’s Café where Stacey works is on the seafront (now complete with a much-photographed photo mural of the show’s characters), while the nearby Island Leisure arcade is ‘Nessa’s Slots’, marked by a sign outside. For Gavin & Stacey fans wanting to find out ‘what’s occurrin’, Barry Island provides a fabulously fun day out.
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The iconic opening scene of 1981’s Chariots of Fire shows white-clad athletes running barefoot along a wide beach, to a stirring soundtrack by Vangelis. The beach is supposedly Broadstairs in Kent but as filming for the movie was taking place in Edinburgh it was more economical and convenient to find a location in Scotland, and West Sands in St Andrews fit the bill perfectly. This place has been synonymous with the film ever since and tourists still visit today to recreate this famous movie moment, splashing through the surf as the waves break at their feet.
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PHOTOGRAPH 5 VISIT SCOTLAND/STUART BRUNTON PHOTOGRAPHS 6 © FAILTE IRELAND/VALERIE O’SULLIVAN
STAR WARS VII & VIII THE FORCE AWAKENS & THE LAST JEDI SKELLIG MICHAEL, COUNTY KERRY The jagged peaks of Skellig Michael rise dramatically from the Atlantic off the west coast of Ireland. This remote island was home to a monastic community from the 8th century and is a popular destination for its history, landscape and wildlife. Today it offers an additional draw, having featured in both The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi – episodes VII and VIII in the Star Wars franchise. The island is Luke Skywalker’s hideout on the planet Ahch-To, and Skellig Michael’s ancient stone ‘beehive huts’ appear on screen, while the ‘porgs’ of Ahch-To were inspired by the island’s real-life resident puffins.
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PHOTOGRAPH 7 BEACH HOLKHAM ESTATE PHOTOGRAPH 7 FILM SHAKESPEARE IN LOVE AVAILABLE ON DVD & BLURAY FROM UNIVERSAL PICTURES HOME ENTERTAINMENT UK PHOTOGRAPH 8 FILM PHANTOM THREAD AVAILABLE ON DVD & BLU-RAY FROM UNIVERSAL PICTURES HOME ENTERTAINMENT UK PHOTOGRAPH 8 VICTORIA HOTEL
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CHARIOTS OF FIRE WEST SANDS, FIFE
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The Oscar-winning 1998 movie Shakespeare in Love ends with a memorable shot of Viola (Gwyneth Paltrow) washed up from a shipwreck on the shores of ‘Virginia’, walking across a huge beach towards its forested fringes. However, the beach used in the scene is not actually in Virginia, but Holkham Beach in North Norfolk, part of the Holkham Hall Estate and a popular spot for filming, having been used in everything from pop videos and TV shows to internationally acclaimed movies such as this one. With its vast expanse of white sand backed by dunes and pinewoods, it’s easy to see why location scouts are attracted to this spot.
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SHAKESPEARE IN LOVE HOLKHAM BEACH, NORFOLK
PHANTOM THREAD ROBIN HOOD’S BAY, NORTH YORKSHIRE
Several beautiful locations on the North Yorkshire coast – including Staithes and Ravenscar – are used to dramatic effect in Phantom Thread, Daniel Day-Lewis’ final movie before he retired from acting. Robin Hood’s Bay is another significant coastal location that features in this acclaimed 2017 movie, and the village’s cliff-top Victoria Hotel was transformed to give it an authentic 1950s makeover for the filming. In fact, the pivotal scene in which Reynolds (Day-Lewis) meets Alma (Vicky Krieps), the woman who will become his muse, was filmed in the hotel’s dining room, with its striking views across the bay.
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QUADROPHENIA BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX
The 1964 Brighton beachside battles between rival gangs of Mods and Rockers were immortalised in the 1979 film Quadrophenia. The film’s cult status means that the town – and its pier where the gangs congregate in the movie – retains a strong association with both the film and wider Mod culture generally. Quadrophenia walking tours of locations from the film are perennially popular and the Brighton Mod Weekender festival draws the crowds each August Bank Holiday weekend. Beyond Quadrophenia, Brighton has countless other movie associations to its name – everything from the gripping Brighton Rock to the saucy Carry On Girls have been filmed in this Sussex town.
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10 PHOTOGRAPHS 9 VISIT BRIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS 10 POPPY BENNER
AMMONITE LYME REGIS, DORSET
In 2020 film Ammonite, Kate Winslet plays pioneering Victorian palaeontologist Mary Anning, and the backdrop to the film’s action is Anning’s real-life home of Lyme Regis, where she made many of her most important discoveries. Today the resort remains a popular spot for fossil-hunting and draws hordes of visitors seeking out ammonites, belemnites and other exciting finds on local beaches. The recent movie looks set to increase this Dorset destination’s appeal further, introducing global audiences to the work of Mary Anning and the prehistoric treasures that are nestled within the landscapes of the Jurassic Coast.
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Top notch tipples, relaxed dining and a warm Cornish welcome. Find this historic hotel in the heart of Cornwall.
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Moor up on our pontoons, sink a few brews in our quayside pub, then dive into award-winning food. This is the Cornish lifestyle at its best. www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk | 01326 312440 | Harbourside Falmouth Cornwall TR11 2SR
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COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT An exceptional waterfront house in a prime position with well-presented accommodation, unobstructed sea views and parking. EPC Rating B.
Guide Price £1,150,000
COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT A stunning new detached three storey home being built to a high specification set just back from the seafront on the incline of Egypt Hill with wonderful panoramic views over The Solent. EPC Rating TBC.
Guide Price £1,450,000
ST LAWRENCE, ISLE OF WIGHT A beautiful detached property with attractive gardens, spacious accommodation and glorious views across the English Channel. EPC Rating E.
Guide Price £795,000
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coast ARTS & CRAFTS
INSPIRED BY THE COAST
Travelling the world inspired landscape designer Josh Hibberd to start painting and drawing, returning to his home on the Isle of Wight with a new perspective and a clear sense of purpose about the future WORDS NICOLA SMITH
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Josh Hibberd getting creative; the sea is integral to Josh’s life; Josh loves to work with driftwood RIGHT Josh displays his work
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PHOTOGRAPH, TOP SAM MORRIS PHOTOGRAPH, LEFT ALICE GREENFIELD PHOTOGRAPH, RIGHT ISCA MEDIA
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e are a three-minute walk from the beach and we can hear the waves on the shore from our house. It’s one of my favourite sounds,’ says driftwood artist, Josh Hibberd, who lives on the Isle of Wight, where he grew up. He and his girlfriend Emily spent six months travelling around the Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, Bali and Vietnam in 2019. He returned to see his home in a whole new light. ‘I realise that where we live is as special as some of the amazing corners of the world we explored,’ he says. Josh splits his time between being a landscape designer and gardener, and being a driftwood artist. He studied landscape design at university
PHOTOGRAPH LITTLE ISLE PHOTOGRAPHY
PHOTOGRAPH SAM SCADGELL/FRESHWATER BAY PADDLE CO
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‘I’ve always loved the outdoors and island life, and being in and by the sea. It provides me with so much inspiration for my paintings’
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PHOTOGRAPH SAM MORRIS
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OPPOSITE The artist at work CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Josh’s art is inspired and informed by his Isle of Wight surroundings; Single Longboarder by Josh Hibberd; Sophie White Wash by Josh Hibberd
washes up in autumn and winter, especially after storms.’ He paints from his photos of coastal scenes. ‘I love shooting the island’s impressive seascapes, from surf shots to epic sunrises, sunsets and iconic island landmarks’ he says. ‘I also enjoy seeing the island from different perspectives, whether out at sea on the rib or from above through drone shots.’ Drone imagery has inspired his latest collection, called Aerial Shores, which was conceived on a coastal walk from Freshwater Bay to Compton Bay. ‘The high cliffs and top-down view of the crashing waves made me want to explore painting from a bird’s eye view,’ explains Josh. As his profile increases, Josh hopes to become a full-time artist. ‘I’ve found my perfect life balance: living by the sea and painting.’
‘I will never tire of the island’s rolling coastline’
FACTBOX FIND JOSH HIBBERD • Take a look at Josh’s artworks at thedriftwoodartist.co.uk or follow him @the_driftwoodartist on Instagram. • Framed acrylic paintings start at £295, and come in bespoke tray frames created by Mojo Framing in Newquay, Cornwall. UK shipping is free (or contact Josh to organise studio collection). Driftwood pieces start at £80. • Josh’s work is available at the shops XV STRIPES in Yarmouth and Whistle & Hound in Freshwater Bay, both on the Isle of Wight. His work is also being exhibited in the show, ‘Landscape Art: Rural vs Urban’, at The Brick Lane Gallery in London from 31 August to 13 September 2021 (see thebricklanegallery.com for more details). Follow Josh @the_driftwoodartist
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BEACH PHOTOGRAPH SAM MORRIS
and started his own gardening business about eight years ago. However, it was while travelling that Josh started to sketch and create watercolours of the seascapes and landscapes that he saw. ‘Back home, I started to experiment with my painting, collecting driftwood from local beaches, cleaning it, and learning different techniques,’ he explains. ‘Now I use both driftwood and canvas backdrops for my work.’ Josh’s house and studio are both in Freshwater Bay on the west of the island, which has crystal clear waters in summer. ‘I’ve always loved the outdoors and island life, and being in and by the sea – surfing, paddleboarding and wakeboarding all year round. It provides me with so much inspiration for my paintings. I will never tire of the island’s rolling coastline,’ Josh says. ‘It’s a great spot for collecting driftwood too, which
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We sell beautiful homes across the Isle of Wight. ;LIXLIV ]SY EVI PSSOMRK JSV E LSPMHE] LSQI MRZIWXQIRX TVSTIVX] SV XS VIPSGEXI SYV TSVXJSPMS WLS[GEWIW XLI QSWX WXYRRMRK YRMUYI YRYWYEP SV TSXIRXMEP ½PPIH LSQIW GYVVIRXP] JSV WEPI SR SYV WTIGXEGYPEV -WPERH A SELECTION OF OUR CURRENT LISTINGS
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Lower Park Barn Summers Hall
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Woodlands
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Bullen
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A POSTCARD FROM DEVON From luxe new beachside eateries to earth-kind conservation projects, we round up 10 exciting happenings from all around the county’s coast WORDS JESSIE JOHNSON
PHOTOGRAPH WANDERLUST LIFE
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BOTTLED SUNSHINE
All female-collective jewellery brand, Wanderlust Life, chose the local beach and surf spot – North Devon’s Saunton Sands – as the location for its latest shoot showcasing the fresh new collection ‘Face the Sun’. Created to exude positivity and sunny vibes following the darker days of solitude of the last year, the range of gold pendants, rings, earrings and bracelets take inspiration from ancient Mayan, Aztec and Inca designs featuring uplifting turquoise and mother of pearl (wanderlustlife.co.uk).
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BEST OF BRITISH
For the second year running, artwork from Devon-based artist Becky Bettesworth is at the centre of a global summer marketing campaign for iconic British clothing brand, Barbour. Starring St Mary’s Lighthouse in Whitley Bay and the cliffside ruins of Tynemouth Priory, Becky’s evocative depictions of the North Tyneside coast are inspired by classic 1930s travel posters, brought up to date in her signature palette of pretty pinks, blues, yellows and greens (beckybettesworth.co.uk).
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OCEAN CHAMPIONS
Plastic-free cup hire, beach cleans, school talks and business audits; these are just a few of the inspirational campaigns from grassroots community group, Plastic Free North Devon. We love the ‘Protect our Playground’ initiative in particular, which encourages locals and visitors to switch cheap polystyrene bellyboards for sustainable, wooden boards available locally for hire (plasticfreenorthdevon.org).
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BEACHSIDE COOL
Headed up by renowned local chef Michael Caines, a seat at Mickeys Beach Bar and Restaurant has become the hottest ticket in town since opening in Exmouth this spring. Overlooking the Exe and Lyme Bay, a lip-smacking restaurant, bar and cocktail menu features local mussels, boat-fresh seafood cooked over coals and Mickeys’ 5 Finger Punch – a wicked blend of rum,
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pineapple, pomegranate and absinthe, perfect for a sunset tipple with your toes in the sand (mickeysbeach.co.uk).
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FOOD FEST
Local fish, cheeses, ciders and sea salt are all set to tickle the tastebuds of visitors to the Dartmouth Food Festival, which is back from 22-24 October this year, showcasing the culinary bounty of the South West coast and beyond. The free, not-for-profit event will feature workshops, tastings and exhibitors, alongside demonstrations and seminars from some of the nation’s biggest food heroes including Mitch Tonks, Angela Hartnett and many more (dartmouthfoodfestival.com).
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PHOTOGRAPHS 4 ELLIOT WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY
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PHOTOGRAPH 6 AMANDA KEETLEY/DEVON ENVIRONMENT FOUNDATION PHOTOGRAPH 7 AMY VANN
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CLUBBING TOGETHER
The need for nature regeneration – from plastic clean-ups to seaweed farming – has never been greater in Devon, but of course funding doesn’t grow on trees. That’s why the Devon Environment Foundation has set up the Devon Nature Club, allowing local nature lovers and businesses to help those working in conservation and restoration projects around the county to safeguard the coast and land for generations to come. To find out more, visit devonenvironment.org.
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BEACH BUOYS
Fancy a cocktail on the beach without the faff of a shake and stir? Devon-based cocktail company Bar Buoy
mixes its range of 12 cocktails by the sea and serves them up as ready-to-drink bottles, each one serving two people. Its new limited-edition blend ‘Seabird’ marries Salcombe Distilling Co’s flagship gin, Start Point, with pink grapefruit juice, lime juice and agave syrup, joining classics such as the Cosmopolitan, Mojito, Negroni and Old Fashioned. All orders include the option to send a gift message, with free delivery across the UK (barbuoy.co.uk).
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CREATURES GREAT & SMALL
Since first donning a diving mask 50 years ago, leading marine biologist and photographer Paul Naylor has been capturing the sea’s watery wonders both around his local
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GREEN THINKING An independent fish shop in Totnes might be home to the UK’s most
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sustainable fish finger sandwich. Founded by chef Aarik Persaud in 2018, Cormack’s Seafood works with local, small-scale vessels to allow fish stocks to remain healthy while honouring the livelihoods of local fishermen. Alongside fresh seafood, shellfish and hampers, Cormack’s crafts its own thickly cut fish fingers by hand using 100% pollack fillet wrapped in a dill and spiced panko breadcrumb, with zero preservatives. Drop in to the shop for a fish finger sandwich or buy a box for all the family at cormacksseafood.co.uk.
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PARADISE BEACH
All eyes are on Salcombe’s South Sands Beach, as the brand-new Harbour Beach Club Hotel & Spa throws open its doors for a next-level luxury coastal getaway. Featuring 50 rooms and suites, an indoor pool, sauna, treatment rooms and sea-facing beach bar and restaurant, the resort also runs a complimentary shuttle into town and back – if you can make yourself leave the hotel, that is (harbourhotels.co.uk/ harbour-beach-club).
PHOTOGRAPHS 9 ABI CROFT
Devonshire coast and way beyond. His latest book, a brand-new edition of Great British Marine Animals (£19.99), is a vivid exploration of marine wildlife including new material on the social behaviour of some of the most under-appreciated sealife on our shores – from sea slugs and spiderfish to charismatic tiny tompot blennies. Find out more at marinephoto.co.uk.
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EXCEPTIONAL WATERSIDE VILLA ON ENGLISH RIVIERA Renovated with meticulous and sympathetic attention to detail, Villa Stuart is an imposing and outstanding house, its wonderfully unique architectural style lending itself to atmospheric décor. 3 Reception rooms, High Tech Kitchen, 5 En-suite Bedrooms, Self Contained Flat, Home Office and separate Study, Entertaining deck and huge easy maintenance Astro turf lawn Perfect family or second home minutes from the beach, under 3 hours from London Price £2,195,000
Celtic Haven Resort
Welsh escapes to remember
in friendly surroundings with an onsite
Elemis Premier Spa, heated indoor pool and extensive facilities
great prices, colourful Welsh heritage, a relaxing
pace of life and good food at our restaurant
the majestic coast, beautiful beaches, traditional
seaside towns and lots of historical places
our headland golf course, have fun with the kids and make great memories with the whole family
Based in Lydstep, Tenby SA70 7SG
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HOMES to BUY beside the SEA in DEVON
From a waterside house in Dartmouth to a beach hut in Westward Ho!, here’s our pick of the latest seaside properties for sale in Devon COMPILED BY ALICE WESTGATE
1 PROPERTY OF THE MONTH DARTMOUTH £3,000,000 Nestled above the water near St Petrox Church and Dartmouth Castle, Rosebank is a dreamy coastal home. See 1 overleaf
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DARTMOUTH £3,000,000 Previous page: Rosebank is a dreamy coastal home in this ever-popular town. The property has three bedrooms, a vaulted reception room and a sunroom that leads to a boathouse with davit. Outside spaces include pretty gardens and a stunning terrace overlooking the water. Marchand Petit (01548 855590, marchandpetit.co.uk).
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HOPE COVE £1,200,000 Ocean View is a detached four-bed bungalow in an elevated spot in this South Hams village. Highlights include a refurbished interior, wonderful views along the coast and out to sea, and quick
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4 and easy access to the beach. Charles Head (01548 852352, charleshead.co.uk).
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WESTWARD HO! £39,950 The timber beach hut at No 7 Merley Road has lovely views across the bay to Saunton Sands and Baggy Point. It measures around 10 x 8ft, has its own garden area, and is equipped with solar lighting and gas for cooking. Harding & Co (01237 476544, hardingresidential.com).
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SHALDON £1,250,000 A period home with many original features, Glenside has views towards the River Teign and is a short stroll from the village
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This marina townhouse is within walking distance of Plymouth Hoe and the Barbican
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and the slipway. The main house has five en-suite bedrooms and three reception rooms, but there is also a three-bed annexe with letting potential. Bradleys (01626 873757, bradleys-estate-agents. co.uk).
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PLYMOUTH £900,000 In a fabulous waterside spot in Millbay Marina Village, No 16 Custom House Lane is a luxurious four-storey townhouse with three bedrooms, two balconies and a terrace that’s perfect for alfresco living. Savills (01392 455733, savills.co.uk).
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SHALDON £400,000 A spacious first-floor retirement
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9 flat, Apartment No 5 Ferryman’s Reach is a stone’s throw from the beach and the passenger ferry to Teignmouth. It has two double bedrooms, a spacious dual-aspect sitting room and wonderful views of the estuary and out to sea. Dart & Partners (01626 772507, dartandpartners.com).
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NEWTON FERRERS £470,000 Pretty Riverdale is a former fisherman’s cottage in one of the most popular streets in this South Devon waterside village, just a short walk from the public slipway and yacht club. This period property has two bedrooms, an open-plan living room with
wood-burning stove and a private courtyard. Luscombe Maye (01752 872417, luscombemaye. com).
8 If you’d like to advertise your property for sale in coast, contact Zara Mehmet on 07415 325673 or email zara.mehmet@ kelsey.co.uk.
RINGMORE £395,000 Grade II-listed Rock Cottage is just moments from secluded Ayrmer Cove and Ringmore’s 13th-century pub. This romantic thatched hideaway has three bedrooms and loads of character including exposed stone walls, old timbers and an open fireplace. Marchand Petit (01548 831163, marchandpetit.co.uk).
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KINGSWEAR £800,000 Apartment No 1 at The Royal Dart sits right on the waterfront in
10 this beautifully renovated former 8 hotel. With two bedrooms, period features and contemporary styling, its spacious living room has a balcony with panoramic estuary views. The Coastal House (01803 752321, thecoastalhouse.co.uk).
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BRIXHAM £550,000 Let the sound of the waves lull you to sleep at No 2 Coastguard Cottages, an off-grid mid-terrace property set just above Mansands Beach. This private oasis has three bedrooms, two reception rooms with multi-fuel burners, a kitchen with gas lamps, an outside toilet and a spring-fed well. The Coastal House (01803 752321, thecoastalhouse.co.uk).
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SEAFOOD CHAMPIONS A new cookbook, For the Love of the Sea, celebrates the edible bounty of our island waters and the community involved with its sustainable harvest, from catching it, to preparing and sharing it
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or author Jenny Jefferies, it was a privilege to compile For the Love of the Sea, a cookbook with hope and enlightenment on the agenda. Not only are its pages filled with mouthwateringly good seafood recipes, they also showcase more than 40 of the dedicated people involved in fishing and its associated fields of work. ‘Fishermen are the gatekeepers of the sea,’ says Jenny, ‘and I hope this book helps thank and praise everyone who loves British seafood and works with the sea in whatever form, from fishing and farming to selling, cooking, preparing, managing, researching and recreationally.’ Marcus Coleman, CEO of Seafish, the public body which supports the British fishing industry, wrote the foreword and is passionate about reconnecting us with our seafood heritage. ‘Nearly half a million tonnes of seafood is landed at ports all around the UK every year, from Newlyn in Cornwall to Lerwick in the Shetland Islands. At early morning fish markets, merchants clamour to do the best deal. They then distribute the catch to 350 seafood processing businesses around the UK, an industry that employs over 20,000 people – 90% of them women – often in rural coastal communities. From here, supermarkets, restaurants and fish and chip shops receive their supplies and proudly assemble a wonderful array of options for customers to enjoy.’ Here we share four fascinating stories from the book. More than ever, British seafood deserves our culinary attention and a renewed appreciation for our deliciously fishy island heritage.
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HARNESSING COMMUNITY SPIRIT Câr-Y-Môr, St Davids ‘Câr-Y-Môr – “for the love of the sea” in English – started through a combined passion for the coast and a desire to have a positive impact on people’s health and wellbeing. It has been a long road to get where we are today!’ writes Megan Haines, co-founder of Câr-Y-Môr in St Davids, Pembrokeshire. ‘As a Community Benefit Society, our main aim is to benefit local people and businesses. Here in St Davids, local fishermen, boat builders and other caring folk have all joined the society to start creating an innovative seafood business providing fulfilling jobs. Today the society has 37 members and counting: all local members volunteering to help the community business grow, with others supporting from afar. ‘2020 was a big year as we managed to get Wales’ first 3D ocean farms into the water at Ramsey Sound. Between the two ocean farms we have three different species of seaweed growing and 90,000 juvenile native oysters. Surveying the farms and seeing the magic that happens has brought us and our partners great joy, especially in these turbulent times. But as well as boosting our mood, the farms will be used by our research partners for a number of interesting studies: evaluating the positive effect they have on the marine environment, exploring carbon capture potential and the development of a farm monitoring system. ‘Back on land we have allied with Jono and Sandy at Solva Seafoods, which
allows us to market and distribute locally caught seafood and shellfish to local and national customers, supplying them with lobster and crab caught by Jono himself. As the business develops, we hope to increase this offer with more locally caught and ocean farmed produce. ‘In summer 2019, we began our outdoor education adventure, so you’d find us most weekends on different beaches across southern Pembrokeshire. Our Seaweed Potion Kitchen proved popular with both children and adults (as it meant parents could have five minutes’ peace). We also delved into education sessions in schools as well as running Potion Kitchen birthday parties on the beach, all of which were a fantastic success. As we move forward, we hope to carry on inspiring the next generation of ocean farmers, to continue bringing something special to the local community and make a positive difference to people’s wellbeing here.’
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Grilled Lobster with Laver and Garlic Butter This is a real showstopper and a perfect meal to serve on a summer’s evening with everyone gathered around the barbecue – Billy Trigg, chef, Câr-Y-Môr You will need: • 1 lobster • 30g Welsh cheddar For the laver butter: • 100g salted butter, softened • 10g dried laver • 3 cloves of garlic • 5g fresh parsley • 5g fresh coriander
‘Surveying the two new ocean farms and seeing the magic that happens has brought us and our partners great joy’ Megan Haines, co-founder of Câr-Y-Môr
Method (SERVES 2) 1. Place the live lobster in the freezer for 10 minutes. This will put the lobster into a coma-like state. In the meantime, grate the cheddar and blend all the ingredients for the laver butter together in a food processor. 2. After 10 minutes, remove the lobster from the freezer, place it on a chopping board and cut through the lobster’s head quickly with a very sharp knife, as this causes as little pain as possible. Cut the lobster in half lengthways and remove the digestive tract. Crack the shell of the claws with the back of your knife. 3. Spread the laver butter then sprinkle the cheese over the lobster meat and claws. Place under a preheated grill or on a hot barbecue for 20 minutes until cooked but tender. 4. Serve the lobster with homemade chunky chips and summer salad, garnished with a slice of lemon or lime.
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Crab Dip This recipe is a real crowd-pleaser and a great way to introduce people to brown crab if they haven’t eaten it before. It is easy to make ahead of time and reheat for entertaining. Try to find the best locally sourced brown crab you can for great quality and to support local fishermen – Ashley Mullenger, The Female Fisherman You will need: • 1 large dressed brown crab • 180g cream cheese • 6 spring onions, finely sliced • 5 tbsp mayonnaise • 2 cloves of garlic, finely minced (or 1 tsp garlic powder) • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce • ½ tsp paprika • Salt, pepper and Tabasco to taste • Good handful of grated cheddar or mozzarella
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Method (SERVES 3) 1. Set aside half of the grated cheese, then put all the ingredients into a large bowl. Combine until well mixed, then spoon into individual ovenproof bowls or one larger dish for sharing. 2. Bake the dip in a preheated oven at 180°C for 20 minutes, then take it out and turn on the grill. Scatter the grated cheese over the top, then grill until golden. 3. Leave to cool slightly before serving. This is ideal with fresh bread, toasted pittas, crackers, tortilla chips or even celery and cucumber sticks.
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VOYAGE OF ‘THE FEMALE FISHERMAN’ Ashley Mullenger, Norfolk ‘I own and operate two boats working from Wells-next-the-Sea, which is a small seaside town on the North Norfolk coast,’ writes Ashley Mullenger. ‘My traditional Scottish-built boat, Fairlass, predominantly catches whelks, while the smaller 8m fibreglass boat Saoirse catches crabs and lobsters too. It’s no secret that this has historically been a man’s job, and as a female fisherman I am often asked, “How did that happen?”. Occasionally I will find myself staring down at a box full of stinking bait, splattered with mud, rain streaming down my face at some godawful time of the night, wondering the same thing! I wouldn’t change the decision I made to ditch the clean, warm office life for a second, though. ‘In 2009 I decided to book myself on a charter angling trip from Wells, and I fell in love with being at sea. The skipper, Nigel, couldn’t get rid of me afterwards so eventually he asked me to work with him. I spent my summers gutting mackerel and
cod and wrestling the odd small shark until 2013, when Nigel sold Sunbeam III and started fishing commercially before buying his own boat, Never Can Tell-A. ‘Despite desperately wanting to have a career at sea, I was always put off by the level of physical work involved, the danger and the fact that commercial day boats don’t generally cater for female needs. However, in 2018 Nigel asked me to come back and work for him again, and I’ve never looked back. The hours are long and often unsociable, the job can be hard on your body with hours outside in the cold, wind and rain, but I adore it. Maybe it’s the complete honesty of the job: a fair
day’s work for a fair day’s pay. Maybe it’s the romance of working with nature and the elements? I try not to analyse it but just appreciate how lucky I am. ‘We retired Never Can Tell-A in 2019 and replaced her with Fairlass, which Nigel’s sons predominantly run. Saoirse joined the fleet in October 2020 and we hope to diversify our catch with her, including fish in the longer term to sell locally. I am deeply passionate about fish caught in the UK and would love to see the British public seeking out more of our own “home-grown” fish, so that we don’t have to rely as heavily on exporting our catch abroad.’
‘I would love to see the British public seeking out more of our own “home-grown” fish’ Ashley Mullenger, The Female Fisherman coast ma gaz in e .co.uk
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COOKING UP A STORM Lisa Williams, Royal Navy ‘Coming from the Caribbean, cooking for me is second nature. I cook almost daily and thought, “Why not do it as a career?”,’ writes Lisa Williams, a Royal Navy chef. ‘The Navy provides the ingredients – sometimes we get what is needed and sometimes we don’t – and this is what makes what I do so interesting; I get to put my creativity to the test! Sometimes I produce dishes that turn out to be spectacular, which I’m proud to stand behind and say, “I made that”, and sometimes I make mistakes, which I learn from. ‘But in anything that I do, I do it to the best of my abilities. This has earned me a lot more recognition, but it’s also made my job challenging; everyone expects me to always produce excellent dishes. It’s motivated me to go the extra mile. I consider myself to be a very lucky individual because so far I’ve been achieving my goals and I have an excellent support system, including my close friends and family. I know without them I wouldn’t be where I am today. On days when I’m at my lowest, they push
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me to look past the trials and aim for excellence. ‘Being in the Royal Navy has allowed me to learn about so many different places, people and opportunities. But nothing so far has surpassed the British seafood experiences. Since becoming a chef in the Royal Navy, I’ve seen many different ways of preparing seafood. I enjoy preparing seafood, particularly because it’s a completely different procedure and needs more love and attention put into creating the final product, making it something to be proud of. I enjoy experimenting and not following a recipe.
‘If you love eating seafood, learn the different varieties, their unique textures and tastes and just keep adding some of your favourite ingredients to create a dish you can call yours. Seafood is delicate, which makes it easier to make a mistake and ruin the dish. Turn your mistakes into a lesson. It’s easier to take criticism and make decisions that turn your project into a masterpiece! British seafood is one of a kind and has been a liberating experience for me so far. I have no doubt there are more great things ahead, but I look forward to trying new types of seafood and learning more about the spectacular flavours the sea has to offer.’
‘If you love eating seafood, learn the different varieties, their unique textures and tastes and just keep adding some of your favourite ingredients to create your own dish’ Lisa Williams, Royal Navy chef
De Li-Kingklip The type of fish I used to create this dish is called Kingklip, a species of cusk eel. Any fish can be used in replacement though; just keep in mind the cooking time will differ depending on the size and type of fish used. The seasoning can be adjusted to personal preference, but this is how I like it – Lisa Williams, Royal Navy You will need:
• 2 tsp garam masala
• ½ lemon • 1 kingklip fillet,
• 1 tsp black pepper • 1 tsp mild curry
halved • 15g ginger, finely
powder • 1 tsp paprika
chopped • 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
• 500g cooking oil For the coconut sauce:
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 55g butter
• 4 tbsp flour • 2 tsp salt
• 1.1 litres milk • 65g flour
• 2 tsp lemon and dill fish seasoning
• 1 vegetable stock cube • 2½ tbsp sugar
• 2 tsp ground cumin • 2 tsp Chinese five spice
• 50g desiccated coconut
Method (SERVES 2) 1. Begin by squeezing the lemon half over the kingklip fillet. Mix the chopped ginger and garlic with the olive oil and rub the mixture into the fillet. To the flour, add all the remaining ingredients, apart from the cooking oil, and combine thoroughly until they are completely blended together. 2. Pour the cooking oil into a frying pan and allow it to heat up, but don’t let it get to boiling point. Completely coat each half of the kingklip fillet with the seasoned flour and place both pieces into the hot oil. After 5 minutes, flip each piece and cook for a further 5 minutes on the other side before removing from the pan. For the coconut sauce 3. Melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat. As the butter is melting, pour the milk into another pan and allow it to come to the boil. Add the flour to the pan with the melted butter, take it off the heat, and completely mix them together. Once they are fully combined, the pan can be put back on the heat, allowing the flour to cook. Make sure to keep mixing as it does. 4. Slowly add a little of the boiled milk to the flour and butter paste and keep stirring until it
becomes smooth. Do this until all the milk has been added to the mixture. Add the vegetable stock cube and sugar to the mixture, stirring until they have completely melted. Finally, add the desiccated coconut and stir until it is completely integrated to create the sauce. 5. To serve, place the fried kingklip on a plate and garnish with the coconut sauce.
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Clam and Chorizo Pasta with Parsley Gremolata I love cooking with clams! They are easy to prepare, really meaty and delicious in pasta. The clams used in this recipe are sourced from the small scale Poole Harbour Clam & Cockle Fishery, which is MSC-certified as a sustainable and well-managed fishery – Loren Hiller, MSC You will need: • 24 MSC-certified Poole Harbour clams (or other MSC clams, just look for the blue label) • ½ white onion • 2 cloves of garlic • 100g spicy chorizo sausage (not cooking chorizo) • 160g dried spaghetti • 2 handfuls of cherry tomatoes, halved • 200ml dry white wine • Pinch of salt and pepper For the parsley gremolata: • Handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley • 1 clove of garlic, grated • 1 lemon, zested
Method (SERVES 2) 1. Before cooking, check for any broken shells or clams that don’t close when tapped; these are dead and shouldn’t be eaten. Any dirty shells need to be scrubbed clean. Finely dice the onion and garlic, and dice the chorizo. Place all three ingredients in a pan over a medium heat and season with salt. You shouldn’t need any oil as the chorizo will naturally release its own oils. Stirring frequently, cook until the onion and garlic are tender, usually around 10 to 12 minutes. 2. Bring a pan of water to the boil for your
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spaghetti. Salt the water and cook the spaghetti until al dente, or 1 minute before the final cooking time that’s recommended on the packaging. 3. Once the onions are tender, add the tomatoes and let them soften slightly. Pour in the wine and allow to bubble and reduce. Now for the fun part! Place your clams into the pan, put the lid on and allow them to steam. When the clams are cooked, they’ll pop open. This should take 3 to 5 minutes (any clams that do not open should be discarded). 4. Take the spaghetti out with tongs, reserving the cooking water, and place the pasta into the pan of clams. Stir to incorporate all of the ingredients. Put a tablespoon of the pasta water into the pan with the other ingredients. Season with salt and pepper to taste. For the parsley gremolata 1. Finely chop the parsley until it’s almost minced (don’t use a food processor). Stir the garlic and lemon zest into the parsley and chop a little more to get everything incorporated. 2. Serve the clam and chorizo pasta in bowls and sprinkle over the parsley gremolata. Enjoy!
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PROTECTING WILD SEAFOOD SOURCES Marine Stewardship Council ‘Our oceans cover 70% of our planet. They are vast and furious, beautiful and endlessly fascinating. Unfortunately, these same oceans are under immense pressure,’ writes Loren Hiller, commercial officer for the UK and Ireland at the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). ‘And at a time when a growing global population needs sustainable, low-carbon protein more than ever, a third of fish stocks are over-exploited and the ocean faces unprecedented threats, from global warming to ocean acidification and plastic pollution. ‘Seafood is our last truly wild major food source, so the stakes are high when we really think about how important it is to protect this resource. But addressing these challenges doesn’t mean we have to stop eating fish, nor is it a feasible solution for everyone. Globally, more than one billion people rely on fish as their primary source of protein, largely in developing countries. ‘We all need healthy oceans, so we must act to keep them teeming with life, now and into the future! The oceans define us. They regulate our climate and supply much of the oxygen we need to survive. The life within our oceans is also
essential to sustain people’s livelihoods, providing incomes for millions all around the world. We are all connected in one way or another and we are, at this moment in time, in reach of a whole new relationship with the ocean: a wiser, more sustainable one. ‘As we have grown more aware of these threats, so has the willingness to work together to find global solutions. One way that you can make a positive change is by choosing the MSC blue label when buying fish and seafood. Choosing fish and seafood with the blue MSC label makes it easier to identify products that have been sourced sustainably from a well-managed
fishery with limited impacts on the environment. The MSC’s approach means everyone can play a part in safeguarding the future of our oceans and seafood supplies. When you buy a product with this blue fish label, you become part of a virtuous circle, helping to protect the productivity and health of our oceans. The collectiveness of humanity can return our oceans to their glory, so that they remain ecologically abundant and capable of feeding the world. ‘So, next time you are out shopping or in a restaurant, #choosethebluefish, and let’s ensure there is plenty of fish and seafood for future generations.’
For the Love of the Sea is compiled by Jenny Jefferies and published by Meze Publishing, priced at £22, hardback. Photography by Paul Gregory Photography (paulgregoryphotography.co.uk). The book is available to buy from Waterstones in store and online, also at mezepublishing.co.uk and jennyjefferies.co.uk.
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Your own luxury waterlodge now available in Britain’s prettiest marinas
Love the idea of being part of marina life but don’t want to own a boat? Our luxury waterlodges based at Chichester on the South Coast or Buckden in Cambridgeshire provide a second home that combines the peace and tranquility of life on the water with a high level of comfort.
Easy to look after, with either one or two double bedrooms, open plan living area, and a terrace for your sundowners, the lodges come ready for use. They are built to high quality and environmental spec, robust in construction and low maintenance. For security, access to the marinas is via gated pontoons.
Birdham Pool has the most incredible South Coast location, with views up to the South Downs and towards the white sand beaches of the eastern Solent. Buckden is a mature site surrounded by willow trees, with excellent walks along the River Ouse. Close to all facilities, which include a restaurant and leisure club onsite.
Get in touch on 01445 249000 or info@castleboatsales.co.uk
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coast PROPERTY
MAKING the MOVE Many of us aspire to live by the sea and in the next pages we give you the information you need to make that dream a reality WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER
ECO PAINT FOR OUTDOORS HUT HAVEN Since the pandemic, interest in beach huts has gone stellar, according to property search hub Rightmove. Compared to 2019, the average price of a beach hut has increased by over 50%, rising from £25,000 to £40,000. Lesser-known hut hotspots include Walton-on-the-Naze in Essex, Hunstanton in North Norfolk, and Felixstowe in Suffolk, where a deep seam of these tiny seaside properties regularly come up for sale. This pretty hut at 37 Spa Pavilion – a community
of 53 beach huts, five minutes’ walk from Old Felixstowe – costs £49,000, with cheaper options from £15,000 upwards available at Brackenbury Fort. Call 01394 282281 or visit diamondmills.co.uk.
Carbon-neutral company Coat Paints has introduced a super-durable, eggshell exterior paint for transforming wooden doors, gates, metal planters and masonry with a soft-gleam, off-matt finish. Says Coat co-founder Rob Abrahams: ‘Our exterior paint is deeply pigmented to stand up to weather. It’s finished freshly to order and will look flawless for years.’ The company goes to great efforts to be green and its paints are water-based, low VOC and free of solvents. Tester pots have been replaced with Peel & Stick swatches, lessening waste by 95%, while paintbrushes are made with sustainable bamboo handles (coatpaints.com).
WE HEART GOWER According to a survey by new property portal, Boomin (boomin. com), the Gower coast tops the list of the top 20 up-and-coming property locations in the UK, a selection which also includes Ogmore-by-Sea in Glamorgan, Aberavon in Port Talbot, and Cleethorpes in Lincolnshire. Locations were assessed against 10 factors, such as proximity to schools and gyms, crime rates, restaurant options, recent Google property searches and increase in local house prices. Says Gower estate agent
Jonathan Morgan of BJP Residential: ‘It’s no surprise to see Gower heading up the list, being the UK’s first ever AONB and home to bucket-list beach,
Rhossili. Gower offers a beautiful, remote setting but isn’t isolated, in under half an hour you can be in Swansea.’
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The Beach House, Salcombe S O U T H H A M S ’ L E A D I N G E S T AT E A G E N T
Guide price: £4,500,000
Salcombe
A breath-taking iconic contemporary 4 bedroom detached property just a stone’s throw from North Sands beach with far reaching sea and beach views. Expansive balcony, gardens, generous parking for several vehicles and plenty of room for boat storage. Reference Number: SAL090166 | Agent Marchand Petit: Salcombe | Agent Number: 01548 844 473
marchandpetit.com DARTMOUTH KINGSBRIDGE MODBURY NEWTON FERRERS SALCOMBE TOTNES PRIME WATERFRONT & COUNTRY 01803 839190 01548 857588 01548 831163 01752 873311 01548 844473 01803 847979 01548 855590
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HOMES to BUY BESIDE the SEA
From a remote hideaway in the Outer Hebrides to a beachside house on the Isle of Wight, here’s our pick of the latest properties for sale by the sea COMPILED BY ALICE WESTGATE
1 PROPERTY OF THE MONTH BERNERAY, WESTERN ISLES £185,000 Ty Cymro sits in an idyllic spot on the beautiful Outer Hebridean island of Berneray, which is linked by a causeway to North Uist. See 1 overleaf
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BERNERAY, WESTERN ISLES £185,000 Previous page: Ty Cymro – a thatched, renovated Hebridean blackhouse that stands at the edge of Bays Loch – has one bedroom, a mezzanine and a garden that leads down to the water’s edge. Bell Ingram (01463 717799, bellingram.co.uk).
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ST IVES, CORNWALL £950,000 A rare chance to buy a Grade II-listed townhouse with stunning views over the harbour, the island and the coast. No 4 Albert Place has three bedrooms, front and rear courtyard gardens, a roof terrace and a second-floor balcony, all a
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4 short stroll from Porthmeor Beach. Lillicrap Chilcott (01872 273473, lillicrapchilcott.com).
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COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT £799,950 Contemporary accommodation, easy access to the water, a southfacing garden and great sea views make No 49C Queens Road a great beachside retreat. It has three bedrooms and is within a short walk of shops, restaurants and sailing club. Spence Willard (01983 200880, spencewillard.co.uk).
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LANDIMORE, SWANSEA £675,000 Brandy House has a magical setting on the Gower, looking over
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Ardintigh Bay offers an exciting business opportunity as well as the chance to live off-grid
the great salt marsh and estuary to Burry Port. This detached property has four bedrooms and three reception rooms including an orangery, plus an acre of land. Fine & Country (01792 367301, fineandcountry.com).
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MALLAIG, HIGHLAND £700,000 Only accessible by boat or on foot, Ardintigh Bay is an outdoor adventure centre on the shores of Loch Nevis. Included in the sale is a two-bedroom cottage, five wooden bunkhouses, a two-storey lodge, a jetty, loch frontage, eight acres of land and a 65ft boat in the shape of a whale. Bidwells (01397 707645, bidwells.co.uk).
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ALDEBURGH, SUFFOLK £1,850,000 Overlooking the yacht club and with views towards the beach and marshes, Byford House is a three-storey property with five bedrooms and a lovely garden with a summerhouse. Bedfords (01728 454505, bedfords.co.uk).
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WHITBURN, TYNE & WEAR £999,999 The Red Cottage, which stands just 300 yards from the seafront, is a detached Grade II-listed house with five bedrooms and a walled garden with outbuildings. The property was built in 1842 by a wealthy brickworks owner, hence its remarkably ornate exterior.
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Sanderson Young (0191 223 3500, sandersonyoung.co.uk).
8 If you’d like to advertise your property for sale in coast, contact Zara Mehmet on 07415 325673 or email zara.mehmet@ kelsey.co.uk.
MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL £950,000 Versatile accommodation at Mount Pleasant Cottage means you could live in this four-bedroom house while renting out its self-contained two-bedroom apartment, or vice versa. This period property has views across Mounts Bay and is only 100 yards from the harbour. Lillicrap Chilcott (01872 273473, lillicrapchilcott.com).
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DEAL, KENT £275,000 No 2 The Chequers is a groundfloor apartment near the Royal
Cinque Ports Golf Club and just 8 a few hundred yards from the beach in Deal. A perfect lock-upand-leave coastal home, it has two double bedrooms and a small front garden. Bright & Bright (01304 374071, brightandbright. co.uk).
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REENGAROGA ISLAND, CO CORK €850,000 The Turquoise House is a colourful 1990s property with five bedrooms and an acre of land. Its open-plan kitchen, which has a double-height ceiling and picture windows, leads to a large sun deck from which to enjoy coastal and island views. Charles McCarthy (+353 282 1533, charlesmccarthy.com).
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Four properties for sale at Calgary, Isle of Mull
The Byre with Dovecote
Calgary Farmhouse
Hayloft
A delightful three-bedroom house and attached one-bedroom linked cottage (with a proven track record of holiday bookings). Both feature wonderful period design features throughout and are within walking distance of Calgary Bay.
A charming three-bedroom farmhouse set in a much sought-after location with far reaching views towards Calgary Bay. With beautiful mature gardens to the front and side the property is an ideal family home with holiday let potential.
As the name suggests, The Hayloft was an integral part of the original farm before its conversion into stylish family accommodation over two levels. The four-bedroom property has many bespoke design features and would make a wonderful holiday home.
Offers over £420,000
Offers over £395,000
Offers over £375,000
Calgary Licensed Tearoom and Studio A rare opportunity to buy a superb lifestyle business in a dream location just a few minutes’ walk from the golden sands of tourist hotspot Calgary Bay. The centre-piece is a thriving tearoom located in a beautifully converted, stone arched building. Its interior YLÅLJ[Z [OL V^ULYZ» WHZZPVU MVY art and doubles as an informal exhibition and display space for local artists. The sale also includes three attractively decorated letting properties and staff accommodation apartments.
OIRO £575,000
For more information or to view any of these properties please contact: Andrew Fuller Bell Ingram Oban 01631 566122 oban@bellingram.co.uk
Scotland’s Coastal Property Experts Highlands and Islands | Argyll and Bute
coast WALKING
TALES FROM THE SEA Writer Jane Dunford deepens her relationship with the landscapes and seascapes of the Sussex coast by taking a storytelling walk with nature guide Nana Tomova
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ABOVE Heading along the South Downs Way with the magnificent Seven Sisters cliffs straight ahead OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Storyteller Nana Tomova in full flow; Beachy Head lighthouse; writer Jane Dunford soaking up the scenery; the Seven Sisters are an iconic sight on the Sussex coast
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here’s blue sky above us, the call of seagulls on the breeze, and open views of the white cliffs of the Sussex coast as storyteller and nature guide Nana Tomova reads the poem Exiled by Edna St Vincent Millay. It’s a fitting setting to hear of the writer’s yearning for the sound of the ocean and the ‘sticky, salty sweetness’ of its spray, as waves lap the shore and rocks below us. I know this stretch of coast well. The Seven Sisters are a famously picturesque series of chalk cliffs between the towns of Seaford and Eastbourne, and The South Downs Way follows an undulating course between them. It’s a favourite for hikers and film-makers, often standing in for the White Cliffs of Dover, and stars prominently in 2019’s Hope Gap with Bill
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Nighy and Annette Bening, and Jessica Swale’s 2020 film Summerland.
INSPIRED BY FOLKLORE Today’s adventure, though, is more unusual than previous strolls. I’m on a storytelling walk with Nana, and as we wander east from Seaford Beach to Cuckmere Haven, she will be regaling me with tales and poems of the sea. ‘There’s sea-related folklore from so many cultures – from mermaids and selkies to ghost ships and strange creatures,’ she says as we set off. ‘The sea holds such mystery.’ Based in Lewes, but originally from Bulgaria, Nana runs private and group storytelling walks in various locations around Sussex – from the South Downs, to woodlands, to the coast. Trips can be
tailored to suit – whether it’s a full day by the sea or a short forest foray, and other elements from creative writing to making art might also be woven in. Born by the Black Sea, ocean tales are among her favourites, Nana says.
LOST IN WORDS From Seaford we climb higher until we have a clear view of the coastline and settle in a sheltered spot for a tale. Nana talks of how the land was formed when the ice caps melted long, long ago, and begins with an old local legend, The Seven Sisters and One True Shepherd. The tale starts with a shepherd who comes across seven shining sisters dancing as he searches for a lost lamb – with the cliffs named as Nana points towards them, from Haven Brow
BEACHY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE PHOTOGRAPH, TOP RIGHT NIGEL WIGGINS/SHUTTERSTOCK SEVEN SISTERS PHOTOGRAPH, BOTTOM LEFT PHILIP REEVE/SHUTTERSTOCK
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‘There’s sea-related folklore from so many cultures – the sea holds such mystery’
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CUCKMERE HAVEN PHOTOGRAPH LILLY TROTT/SHUTTERSTOCK
LEFT Looking east from the Seven Sisters ABOVE Cuckmere Haven RIGHT The view out to sea
to West Hill – and ends with the sisters as stars forming the Pleiades in the night sky and the shepherd becoming Orion’s Belt. There’s a child-like thrill at being told a story, taken to another place, while firmly rooted in the seascape, and I’m lost in the words and surroundings. The sun’s out and we wander on past Hope Gap and further still until the cliffs begin to drop down to the estuary of the River Cuckmere. A duo of picture-perfect cottages stand close to the cliff edge; to the north the flood plains are alive with oystercatchers and egrets as the river meanders to meet the sea. It’s low tide, the scene of seaweed-strewn rocks and weathered groynes makes a perfect backdrop for Nana’s next yarn. This one is from Scotland, a tale of selkies or ‘seal folk’. In Celtic and Norse mythology, the selkies are capable of therianthropy, changing from seal to human by shedding their skin; the sea is the way to pass into another world. I’m told of a fisherman with green eyes who falls in love with a selkie, how she agrees to stay with him for seven years, but yearns to go back to the deep
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2 4 MORE GUIDED COASTAL WALKS 1. YORKSHIRE Rose Rylands runs guided walks from Robin Hood’s Bay and through the old part of Whitby sharing seafaring tales, myths and legends. Private 80-minute tours priced from £75pp for two, whitbystoryteller.co.uk.
waters to be with her seal sisters – and eventually returns to her true skin, her sorrow turning to joy. Gazing out over the sea as Nana weaves the beguiling tale brings it to life all the more – and she sings an ancient song, Seal Woman’s Sea Joy, in a language now lost, both beautiful and melancholic.
THE POWER OF STORYTELLING Nana’s passion for storytelling began in childhood and she juggles it with her work as a mental health pharmacist (and as a photographer and poet). It may seem like an unlikely combination, but there is a link – Nana sees stories as a way of offering hope, courage and wisdom and her ‘Story Apothecary’ podcast dispenses stories as medicine, prescribed to help the listener feel better. ‘There’s something soothing about listening to stories,’ she explains. ‘It can help with agitation, makes you slow down and be in the
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moment – and stories particularly come alive outside.’ Our next story is an Inuit creation myth. Set in a time before there were creatures in the sea, it blends drama with violence and wonder at the natural world and how it came to be. Afterwards we wander back, cutting through a patch of forest, spotting bunnies hopping over grassland and butterflies flitting by. Before we finish, Nana reads By the Sea by Christina Georgina Rossetti, a poem celebrating the ocean and the life within it, the ‘sheer miracles of loveliness’. Back on Seaford beach we say goodbye. I end the morning in the most fitting way I can think of: with a dip in the sea, musing on its mystery, power and beauty as I dive beneath the waves. Group walks cost from £40 for three hours; private walks cost from £150 for three hours for two people, extra people £20pp. For more information visit nanatomova.com.
3. ORKNEY, SCOTLAND Wild Orkney Walks offers a range of guided walks, from two hours to a full day, providing an insight into the island’s wildlife and landscapes. From £24pp for two hours, wildorkneywalks.co.uk. 4. CORNWALL Environmentalist Steve Crummay, offers a choice of coastal walks in various locations all along the Cornish coast, sharing his depth of wildlife and landscape knowledge on the way. Prices start from £20pp for half-day, exploreincornwall.co.uk. 5. NORTHUMBERLAND Footsteps in Northumberland runs many different walks in this vast county, including a five-hour guided Pilgrim’s Way walk to the atmospheric Holy Island of Lindisfarne. Prices start at £17.50pp, footstepsnorthumberland.co.uk.
SUNSET PHOTOGRAPH ALEXEY FEDORENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK
ABOVE Sunset over the South Downs makes a magical landscape even more enchanting
2. PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES Chef and fisherman Matt Powell runs guided foraging walks around the Pembrokeshire coast in West Wales, with foraged dinner. The cost is £135pp for a full day, fishingandforagingwales.co.uk.
ISLE OF WIGHT
WALKING FESTIVAL
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coast TRAVEL
10 OF THE BEST
CONTEMPLATIVE WALKING TRIPS From rambling on Cornish cliff paths to yomping over vast Norfolk beaches, walking is as good for the mind as the body. Here’s our pick of next-to-nature guided and self-guided trips to restore and revive WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER
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he pandemic has left many of us feeling a little emptied out, searching for holidays that provide a sense of freedom as well as mental rest as we tap into the healing energy of nature. The British Isles coastline is blessed with good walking opportunities, and self-guided and guided trips have become something of a speciality. These organised holidays allow you to discover the coast on foot while having the practicalities – such as plotting a route, transporting luggage and booking your accommodation – all sorted at the click of a mouse. There’s plenty of flexibility too: choose the day you go, add in rest days or extra days, upgrade accommodation or plan something completely bespoke. Most things are possible between March and October, when the walking season is in full stride, and the trips we’ve chosen are not too strenuous and in the loveliest locations. All that remains now is to pick your spot, grab your walking boots, augment with a pair of sticks, and you’re off!
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GO WILD IN CORNWALL LIZARD PENINSULA
Not as rocky or as hilly as some of Cornwall’s coast, the route around England’s most southerly point, the Lizard Peninsula, begins at Marazion and magical St Michael’s Mount. Headwater’s selfguided walk continues the picture-postcard tour through the villages of Porthleven, Mullion and Coverack. Most of the area is classified as an AONB and you will experience everything from towering cliffs, to sloping fields and sheltered shingle beaches as you follow the coastal path. The zenith of the four-day, 35-mile walk is the Lizard itself and its ancient cliffs striped with red and green serpentine rock. The two longest sections are 10.5 miles each, but still take around five hours to complete – this is wild Cornwall, after all. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Walking the Lizard Peninsula’, from £719pp for five nights’ B&B hotel accommodation. Call 01606 369418 or go to headwater.com.
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STRIDE IN A GIANT’S FOOTSTEPS ANTRIM COAST
The ‘leisurely-to-moderate’ grade, 28-mile, three-day, self-guided route celebrates the glories of the Antrim coast, an AONB at the northern tip of Northern Ireland. The Exodus Travels walk begins on the Moyle Way, in the famous forested Glens of Antrim, and emerges at the coastal resort of Ballycastle, gateway to the Giant’s Causeway. Before taking in the wonder of the 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, you’ll spend a day walking through the National Trust nature reserve of Murlough Bay with dreamy views across to Rathlin Island. The grand finale starts at the famous Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge that spans an 80ft deep chasm. The anticipation builds as you arrive at Portbraddon, and then at the Giant’s Causeway itself, built – according to myth anyway – by the giant Fionn mac Cumhaill as a path to Scotland.
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MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Walking the Antrim Coast’, from £689pp for four nights’ B&B accommodation in two and three star hotels (excluding flights). Call 0203 7338287 or go to exodus.co.uk.
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HEAD FOR THE FRINGES ISLE OF WIGHT COAST
The Isle of Wight averages some 2,000 sunshine hours each year and has an 85-mile long coastline, making it a magnet for fair-weather walkers. This trip from HF Holidays is guided, so you really can set out without a care in the world and claw back some me-time. The two-day trip has four different itineraries, offering easy, medium and hard grades of walk around the west and south of the island, with mileage ranging from five to 12 miles. Take in impressive views of The Needles from the sweeping chalk cliffs of Tennyson Down, rich in wild flowers, or explore the jungly Undercliff at Ventnor, which leads to the tree and shrub paradise of Ventnor Botanic Garden. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Isle of Wight Guided Walking Holiday’, from £315pp for three nights’ full board accommodation at Freshwater Bay House. Call 0203 9748865 or go to hfholidays.co.uk.
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EASE ALONG ANCIENT PATHS EAST SUSSEX & KENT COAST
From the venerable Cinque Port of Rye in East Sussex to newly fashionable Ramsgate in Kent, this seven-day trail covers 69 miles along the England Coast Path, taking in iconic sights such as the shingle ridges of Dungeness and Derek Jarman’s garden, the Romney Marshes and the White Cliffs of Dover. A self-guided walk created by Let’s Go Walking, the terrain is relatively flat and easy, and days range from seven to 12 miles – never too arduous. History buffs will love the heritage highlights along the way that include Martello towers, the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway and Deal Castle constructed by Henry VIII to defend against French invaders. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘England Coast Path Rye to Ramsgate’, from £760pp for eight nights’ B&B accommodation at guesthouses, inns or small hotels. Call 01837 880075 or go to letsgowalking.co.uk.
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GREATSTONE-ON-SEA, KENT PHOTOGRAPH VISIT KENT
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DISCOVER WINDSWEPT WILDLIFE NORTH NORFOLK COAST
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For next-to-nature rambles across flat terrain, this trip is ideal, encompassing reed bed boardwalks, secluded beach paths and flint and brick villages to potter through at a rate of between five and seven miles a day. The route, graded ‘easy’ by InnTravel, meanders through North Norfolk’s most soulful places, including Snettisham RSPB reserve – a hotspot of waders from August to January – and the wide open expanses of Holkham Beach. The grand finale is an exploration of the saltmarshes at Cley-next-the-Sea and Blakeney, a haven for birdlife and close to the UK’s largest colony of grey seals. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Seascapes of North Norfolk’, from £795pp for six nights’ B&B accommodation at a hotel, an inn and a guesthouse, plus three dinners. Call 01653 617001 or go to inntravel.co.uk.
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TAKE A LOW KEY TOUR NORTHUMBERLAND COAST
This HF Holidays two-day trip can be super easy or a little more challenging, depending on your level of fitness. Whatever your preference, all you have to do is turn up to enjoy the guided route under the wing of an experienced leader whose mission is to reveal the sweeping seascapes and secret corners of this dramatic stretch of North East coast. The trip is focused around Alnmouth and the Aln Estuary, and highlights include walking through cereal fields above the estuary and exploring the Foxton Bends nature reserve which is brimming with birdlife. Most of the walks are a gentle seven to eight miles in length, so nice and relaxing. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Northumberland Guided Walking Holiday’ is available from March-October, from £349pp for three nights’ full board at Nether Grange. Call 0203 9748865 or see hfholidays.co.uk.
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SINK INTO SCOTTISH SECLUSION ISLE OF ARRAN
Sheltered by the Mull of Kintyre and the Ayrshire coast, the Isle of Arran lies in the Gulf Stream, which brings above-average temperatures. The six-day Celtic Trails self-guided route starts at Brodick on the east of the island and covers 65 miles of walking through the farmlands and wild forest of the south to the green hills of the north, where there’s an option to ascend Goatfell, Arran’s highest point. Along the way you’ll see archaeological sites, plenty of seabird and seal action, and pretty coastal villages such as Lagg, Sannox and Corrie. The longest day is the 14-mile trek from Lochranza to Machrie. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Isle of Arran Coastal Way’, from £700pp for six nights’ B&B accommodation. Call 01291 689774 or book online at celtictrailswalkingholidays.co.uk.
NORTHUMBERLAND PHOTOGRAPH DRHFOTO/ADOBE STOCK ISLE OF ARRAN PHOTOGRAPH FANTASTIQUE/DREAMSTIME.COM
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ROAM ROUND AN ISLAND GUERNSEY COAST
This five-day, 36-mile, self-guided trek begins and ends at St Peter Port, the historic capital of Guernsey in the Channel Islands, and traverses moderate, sometimes easy, terrain that captures fabulous sea views. As the Macs Adventure route draws you south, Fermain Bay hoves into view, while further west the Pleinmont Peninsula is one of the best places for bird-watching anywhere on the island. Next up, you’ll discover why Vazon Bay and Cobo Bay are the locals’ favourite beaches. Guernsey has been strategically important for centuries and many fortifications and look-outs mark the way of daily walks that range in length from 5.5 miles to 13 miles. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Guernsey Coastal Path’, from £630pp for six nights’ B&B accommodation at hotels, inns and guesthouses. Call 0141 5303625 or go to macsadventure.com.
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ROVE FROM RIVER TO SEA SOUTH DEVON COAST
This treat of a self-guided walk, created by Devon specialist Foot Trails, is set in the most scenic of coastal spots, the lush South Hams area, part of the South Devon AONB. The minimum 32-mile long trail begins in the chic little town of Totnes and traces the creeks that lead into the River Dart, which meanders through the Dart Valley before pouring into the sea at the historic naval town of Dartmouth. On the last two days there’s a choice of walks, from six to 13 miles long, taking in the coves and cliffs of Slapton Sands and Beesands, so you can be as lazy or as active as you like. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Devon Creek to Coast’, from £945pp for five nights’ B&B accommodation at inns and a guesthouse. Call 01747 820626 or go to foottrails.co.uk.
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EXPLORE A KINGDOM FIFE COAST
Walkers on this Contours self-guided trip can set a restful pace north from Leven up to the famous university town of St Andrews, covering 35 miles of unspoilt Fife coast. The picturesque threeday route passes through the traditional East Neuk villages of Elie – where top rated chef Amy Elles runs the Harbour Café – Pittenweem and Crail, which reflect the area’s fishing heritage. Along with stupendous views over the Firth of Forth, highlights include St Monan’s Windmill and Crail Museum & Heritage Centre, offering an insight into Fife’s seafaring tradition. You’ll cover 10 to 13.5 miles a day. MAKE A BOOKING: ‘Fife Coast Path Short Break’, from £395pp for four nights’ B&B accommodation in hotels, inns and guesthouses. Call 01629 821900 or go to contours.co.uk.
FIFE PHOTOGRAPH KIMBERLY ANDREWS/CONTOURS
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real ůŝŌ͍ ^Ɵůƚnj ,ŽŵĞůŝŌ ǁŝůů ŚĞůƉ LJŽƵ ĐŽŶƟŶƵĞ ůŝǀŝŶŐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŚŽŵĞ LJŽƵ ůŽǀĞ͘ ^ƚĂŝƌůŝŌ͍ EŽ dŚĂŶŬƐ ^Ɵůƚnj ,ŽŵĞůŝŌ ŝƐ ĂŶ ŝĚĞĂů ĂŶĚ ĂīŽƌĚĂďůĞ ĂůƚĞƌŶĂƟǀĞ ƚŽ Ă ƐƚĂŝƌůŝŌ͘ zŽƵ ĐĂŶ ŶŽǁ ƐĂĨĞůLJ ƚƌĂǀĞů ďĞƚǁĞĞŶ ƚŚĞ ŇŽŽƌƐ ŝŶ LJŽƵƌ ŚŽŵĞ ǁŚŝůĞ ŬĞĞƉŝŶŐ LJŽƵƌ ƐƚĂŝƌƐ ƚŚĞ ǁĂLJ ƚŚĞLJ ŚĂǀĞ ĂůǁĂLJƐ ďĞĞŶ͘
EĞĂƚ Θ ŝƐĐƌĞĞƚ ^Ɵůƚnj ,ŽŵĞůŝŌ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ŝŶƐƚĂůůĞĚ ŝŶƚŽ ĂůŵŽƐƚ ĂŶLJ ƌŽŽŵ ŝŶ LJŽƵƌ ŚŽŵĞ͘ ^Ɵůƚnj ŝƐ ƵŶŝƋƵĞůLJ ĐŽŵƉĂĐƚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ƐŵĂůůĞƐƚ ŵŽĚĞů ƚĂŬŝŶŐ ƵƉ ũƵƐƚ ŽǀĞƌ ŚĂůĨ Ă ƐƋƵĂƌĞ ŵĞƚƌĞ ʹ ŶŽǁ ƚŚĂƚ /^ ĚŝƐĐƌĞĞƚ͘ dŚĞ ŚŽŵĞůŝŌ ƉůƵŐƐ ĚŝƌĞĐƚůLJ ŝŶƚŽ Ă ƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚ ĚŽŵĞƐƟĐ ƐŽĐŬĞƚ ĂŶĚ ƵƐĞƐ ůĞƐƐ ƉŽǁĞƌ ƚŚĂŶ ďŽŝůŝŶŐ Ă ŬĞƩůĞ͘ dŚĞ ŚŽŵĞůŝŌƐ ƌƵŶ ŽŶ ƐĞůĨͲƐƵƉƉŽƌƟŶŐ ƌĂŝůƐ ƐŽ ƚŚĞƌĞ ŝƐ ŶŽ ŶĞĞĚ ƚŽ Ěƌŝůů ŝŶƚŽ ǁĂůůƐ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ŵŽƚŽƌ ŝƐ ĨƵůůLJ ƐĞůĨͲĐŽŶƚĂŝŶĞĚ ǁŝƚŚŝŶ ƚŚĞ ůŝŌ ĐĂƌ͘ EĞĂƚ͘
zŽƵƌ &ŽƌĞǀĞƌ ,ŽŵĞ tŚŝůĞ ƐŽŵĞ ^Ɵůƚnj ĐƵƐƚŽŵĞƌƐ ŚĂǀĞ ĂŶ ŝŵŵĞĚŝĂƚĞ ŶĞĞĚ ĨŽƌ Ă ŚŽŵĞůŝŌ͕ ŽƚŚĞƌƐ ĂƌĞ ůŽŽŬŝŶŐ ƚŽ ĨƵƚƵƌĞͲƉƌŽŽĨ ƚŚĞŝƌ ĞdžŝƐƟŶŐ ŚŽŵĞ ĨŽƌ ǁŚĞŶ ƚŚĞ ƐƚĂŝƌƐ ĚŽ ĞǀĞŶƚƵĂůůLJ ďĞĐŽŵĞ Ă ĐŚĂůůĞŶŐĞ͘ ŽŶ͛ƚ ŐŽ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ ƚŚĞ ƵŶŶĞĐĞƐƐĂƌLJ ĞdžƉĞŶƐĞ
ĂŶĚ ĞŵŽƟŽŶĂů ƵƉŚĞĂǀĂů ŽĨ ŵŽǀŝŶŐ ŚŽƵƐĞ Žƌ ƚŚĞ ĚŝƐƌƵƉƟŽŶ ŽĨ ĂĚĂƉƟŶŐ LJŽƵƌ ŚŽŵĞ ĨŽƌ ĚŽǁŶƐƚĂŝƌƐ ůŝǀŝŶŐ͘ ^ĂǀĞ ŵŽŶĞLJ ŝŶƐƚĞĂĚ͖ ůŝǀĞ ĐŽŵĨŽƌƚĂďůLJ ĂŶĚ ŝŶĚĞƉĞŶĚĞŶƚůLJ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŚŽŵĞ LJŽƵ ůŽǀĞ ĨŽƌ ĂƐ ůŽŶŐ ĂƐ LJŽƵ ǁĂŶƚ͕ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ^Ɵůƚnj ,ŽŵĞůŝŌ͘ ͞tĞ͛ǀĞ ŚĂĚ ŽƵƌ ůŝŌ ĨŽƌ Ϯ LJĞĂƌƐ ĂŶĚ ǁĞƌĞ ƐŽ ŝŵƉƌĞƐƐĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ ŚŽǁ ŝƚ ǁĂƐ ĮƩĞĚ ĨƌŽŵ ŽƵƌ ŚĂůůǁĂLJ ƚŽ ŽƵƌ ůĂŶĚŝŶŐ ŝŶ ǁŚĂƚ Ăƚ ĮƌƐƚ ĂƉƉĞĂƌĞĚ ƚŽ ďĞ ĂŶ ŝŵƉŽƐƐŝďůĞ ƐƉĂĐĞ͘ ŶĚ ŝŶ ƐƵĐŚ Ă ƐŚŽƌƚ ƟŵĞ͘͟ Mr. Eames
Peace Of Mind ^Ɵůƚnj ĂƌĞ ƉƌŽƵĚ ƚŽ ďĞ ƌĂƚĞĚ ͚ džĐĞůůĞŶƚ͛ ďLJ ƚŚĞŝƌ ĐƵƐƚŽŵĞƌƐ ŽŶ dƌƵƐƚƉŝůŽƚ͘ dŚĞLJ ƵƐĞ ƚŚĞŝƌ ŽǁŶ ƚĞĂŵƐ ŽĨ ĞdžƉĞƌƚ ŝŶƐƚĂůůĞƌƐ͕ ƐŽ LJŽƵ ĐĂŶ ĐŚŽŽƐĞ Ă ^Ɵůƚnj ,ŽŵĞůŝŌ ǁŝƚŚ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞ ƉĞĂĐĞ ŽĨ ŵŝŶĚ͕ ŬŶŽǁŝŶŐ LJŽƵ ĂŶĚ LJŽƵƌ ŚŽŵĞ ĂƌĞ ŝŶ Ă ƐĂĨĞ ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ ŚĂŶĚƐ͘
͞dŚĞ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ ŇŽŽƌ ůŝŌ ĮƚƐ ŶĞĂƚůLJ ŝŶƚŽ ƚŚĞ ŚŽƵƐĞ ĂŶĚ ǁĂƐ ƋƵŝĐŬůLJ ĂŶĚ ŶĞĂƚůLJ ŝŶƐƚĂůůĞĚ͘ /ƚ ŚĂƐ ďĞĞŶ ƌĞůŝĂďůĞ ĂŶĚ ŚĂƐ ĞŶĂďůĞĚ ƵƐ ƚŽ ůŝǀĞ Ă ͚ŶŽƌŵĂů͛ ŚŽŵĞ ůŝĨĞ ƵƐŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĮƌƐƚ ĂŶĚ ŐƌŽƵŶĚ ŇŽŽƌƐ͘ ƐƚĂŝƌůŝŌ ǁŽƵůĚ ŶŽƚ ŚĂǀĞ ĚŽŶĞ ƐŽ͘͟ Mrs Goddard via Trustpilot - Jan 2021
&ƌĞĞ͕ EŽ KďůŝŐĂƟŽŶ ^ƵƌǀĞLJ ^Ɵůƚnj ,ŽŵĞůŝŌƐ ŽŶƐƵůƚĂŶƚ ĐĂŶ ǀŝƐŝƚ LJŽƵƌ ƉƌŽƉĞƌƚLJ ƚŽ ŚĞůƉ LJŽƵ ƉůĂŶ ƚŚĞ ďĞƐƚ ůŽĐĂƟŽŶ ĨŽƌ LJŽƵƌ ŚŽŵĞůŝŌ͘ dŚĞLJ ĐĂŶ ĂůƐŽ ĂŶƐǁĞƌ ĂŶLJ ƋƵĞƐƟŽŶƐ LJŽƵ ŵŝŐŚƚ ŚĂǀĞ͕ ĂƐ ĐĂŶ ĂŶLJ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĨƌŝĞŶĚůLJ͕ h<ͲďĂƐĞĚ ƉŚŽŶĞ ƚĞĂŵ͘
^Ž͕ ǁŚLJ ŶŽƚ ŐŝǀĞ LJŽƵƌ ůŝĨĞƐƚLJůĞ Ă ůŝŌ ǁŝƚŚ ^Ɵůƚnj͘ Ăůů &Z ƚŽĚĂLJ͘
͞ džĐĞůůĞŶƚ ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚ ŝŶƐƚĂůůĞĚ ďLJ ƉŽůŝƚĞ ĂŶĚ ǀĞƌLJ ĐŽŵƉĞƚĞŶƚ ƚƌĂĚĞƐŵĞŶ͘ &ŝƚƐ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚůLJ ŝŶƚŽ ŵLJ ŚŽŵĞ͘ DĂĚĞ Ă ŚƵŐĞ ĚŝīĞƌĞŶĐĞ ƚŽ ŵLJ ĂďŝůŝƚLJ ƚŽ ůŝǀĞ ŝŶĚĞƉĞŶĚĞŶƚůLJ͘͟ Mark via Trustpilot
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coast REVIEWS
TRIED AND TESTED
REUSABLE WATER BOTTLES There’s no excuse for single-use plastic bottles any more when you’re out and about – not with an array of clever options for every taste and pocket available to buy now HYDRO FLASK 21OZ STANDARD MOUTH BOTTLE EFFECTIVENESS: This 621ml bottle is the medium-sized model from Hydro Flask, and one of its best-sellers. Its double-wall vacuum insulation can take hot or cold drinks (we only used it for cold) and the powder coat finish makes it easy-grip. We liked the size, the weight and the standard mouth. BPA-free. STYLE: Standard Mouth bottles come in a whole spectrum of colours, including this snazzy new Carnation shade, and will look sleek and stylish anywhere. VALUE: Comes with a life-time warranty and superior quality for the price. PRICE: £32.95 from Hydro Flask (hydroflask.com/uk-en)
best Buy
COMPILED BY ANNE-CLAIRE HEELS
FINISTERRE X MIZU M8 BOTTLE EFFECTIVENESS: This water bottle from Finisterre of Cornwall holds 750ml of liquid, has a screw-top lid and is made from single-wall stainless steel. The lightness is a real advantage, and it’s easy to attach to a bag or a belt with a carabiner. It’s cold drinks only, we had no problems with leakage, and it’s also BPA-free. STYLE: Pass on the environmental message – this comes in a cool silver colour with a Cornwall motif, and the message that ‘Single Use is No Use’. VALUE: This is a brilliant mid-range item and feels like it should wear well. PRICE: £20 from Finisterre (finisterre.com)
JACK WOLFSKIN KAROO 0.75 EFFECTIVENESS: Juice, tea, water – this 750ml vacuum flask is able for any of them. Double-wall insulated stainless steel with a carry cord that also ensures you don’t lose the lid, it has a handy drinking spout in the lid, which itself unscrews for ease when filling or washing. STYLE: Silver and black with a pop of bright yellow, this is tough enough for outdoor adventures and we liked the sure-grip coating on the outside too. VALUE: A good price for a top product from wilderness kit expert Jack Wolfskin, which you’ll be taking out and about with you for years to come. PRICE: £22 from Jack Wolfskin (jack-wolfskin.co.uk)
WHITBY & CO KLEAN KANTEEN EFFECTIVENESS: Rustling Leaves from Cumbria-based Whitby & Co holds 800ml of cold liquid and the opening fits ice cubes too. We didn’t have spills or leaks, the sports cap is ideal if you’re on a run or a bike ride, and it’s easy to clean. BPA-free. STYLE: With a handy carry loop, sports cap for easy drinking and limited-edition pretty pattern, this bottle looks good as well as doing its job effectively. VALUE: The single-wall stainless steel design has the smallest environmental footprint in the Klean Kanteen range, and it doesn’t retain flavours or leave a metallic taste. It shouldn’t dent or rust – feels like a durable product that’s decent value for money. PRICE: £19.95 from Whitby & Co (whitbyandco.co.uk)
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coast REVIEWS
OCEAN BOTTLE EFFECTIVENESS: We loved the dual opening for easy filling and cleaning, and how the lid doubles up as a cup, though don’t be tempted to mistake the (removable) carry loop for a cup handle – easily done, but it isn’t. This keeps cold drinks cold and it can be used for hot drinks too. BPA-free. STYLE: Made from double-wall, vacuum-insulated stainless steel and recycled ocean-bound plastic, this compact design comes in a range of matt colours and is dishwasher-safe. Lightweight but sturdy and it didn’t leak or dribble when pouring. VALUE: Ocean Bottle is out to change the world via a link-up with Plastic Bank. Every purchase funds the collection of 1,000 ocean-bound plastic bottles in weight, and collectors in coastal communities in some of the world’s poorest places exchange this plastic for essentials. At £40 it’s expensive, but it should last a life-time and is helping tackle plastic pollution and poverty. PRICE: £40 from Ocean Bottle (oceanbottle.co)
Recommended
ONEGREENBOTTLE CURVY STAINLESS STEEL BOTTLE EFFECTIVENESS: This curvy canteen comes from Shoreham-based Onegreenbottle, a company that’s been providing eco-friendly alternatives to plastic bottles for 14 years. Comfortable to hold and the classic flip sports cap means it’s easy if you’re on the move. This 350ml smaller model could be a good option for kids too. Being single-skinned, it’s not designed to regulate the temperature of water, but it is designed to keep it toxin-free and pure in a robust container that should stand up to continued use. BPA-free. STYLE: The curves really give these bubble-shaped bottles feel appeal, they come in a range of bright colours, and if a sports cap is not to your liking, there are other lids you can buy on the website instead. They’re certified plastic-neutral by the Plastic Bank too. VALUE: The company is passionate about plastic-free packaging, reducing its carbon footprint, championing ethical production and is a proud supporter of Surfers Against Sewage. If you can support them for £14 while keeping your kids hydrated, that sounds good to us. PRICE: £14 from Onegreenbottle (onegreenbottle.com)
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LAKELAND WOODLAND TRUST INSULATED WATER BOTTLE EFFECTIVENESS: This 500ml bottle from Lakeland keeps cold drinks cold for up to 24 hours (and it can be used for hot drinks too), and is made from double-walled stainless steel with a leak-proof screw-top lid. It looks great, didn’t feel too heavy to carry, and kept the water nice and cool on a long walk. STYLE: Glossy teal with a buzzy bee motif, this is part of Lakeland’s Woodland Trust range which also includes bamboo tumblers and picnicware, so it is the perfect pick for plastic-free nature lovers who want to draw attention to the tree-planting charity while out on their adventures. VALUE: Lakeland donates £1.50 from each sale to the Woodland Trust, plus you get a three-year warranty with your bottle. A reasonably priced item that does good, looks good and performs well? We’re in. PRICE: £16.99 from Lakeland (lakeland.co.uk)
ALPKIT FLASK 350 EFFECTIVENESS: This double-wall insulated stainless steel flask can be used for hot or cold drinks – we loved that you can get this versatility for such an affordable price. At 350ml it is only a dinky little flask, and the cup is tiny, but it’s light as anything and will fit anywhere really. Maybe the perfect mini-flask for a mini-adventure? Or even just a hot coffee on a chilly dog walk. STYLE: Small but mighty. This silver flask is tough enough to take a few knocks and stayed watertight while being jostled about in a backpack. VALUE: It might not be big, admittedly, but the price is a steal for stainless steel – only a few quid more than you’d actually pay for a big single-use plastic bottle of water. Plus it comes with a three-year Alpine Bond – meaning the company will repair, replace or refund should there be any problem. Alpkit is one of the few B-Corp-certified outdoors specialists in the UK and it donates 1% of sales and at least 10% of annual profit to support grassroots projects through its charity, the Alpkit Foundation. PRICE: £6.99 from Alpkit (alpkit.com)
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coast DISCOVERY
COASTAL DISCOVERY
THE SALT MARSH This month William Thomson investigates the magical world of the salt marsh, exemplified by North Norfolk’s atmospheric fringe of creeks, reed beds and dunes leading onto vast open beaches
I
ABOVE William Thomson FRGS is author/illustrator of The Book of Tides and founder of Tidal Compass (tidalcompass.com)
tide begins to rise again, the vessels are effortlessly picked up and face the direction the water is coming from. The reason they do this is because most boats are tied to a buoy by a single rope coming from the bow (front), so the current pushes them away from the buoy and runs evenly down each side. This little piece of knowledge provides an invaluable clue to quickly spot what the tide is doing. If the boats are facing out to sea on a windless day, the tide must be rising. But if they are facing inland, the tide must be falling, because water is draining from the creeks. A fantastic place to observe this is the marshes of North Norfolk, whose picturesque villages have wonderful names perfectly suited to the atmosphere of the place; Blakeney, Holkham, Cley-next-the-Sea, BurnhamOvery-Staithe. Stretching along the coast from The Wash in the west to Cromer in the east, these
places are essentially all part of one large marsh with shared characteristics – sheltered water, creeks making a lattice across the low-lying landscape and raised grassy banks weaving between them, leading to huge dunes protecting the serene marsh from the ravages of the sea. On the wild side of the dunes is an expansive sandy beach, bisected by deepwater channels through which the tide is allowed in twice a day. This dramatic environment with its varying characters – ranging from the tranquil village to tranquil marsh and wild sandy beach – make a wonderful space to go walking. It could be argued that these marshes provide some of the best walks in the whole of the British Isles. My favourite starts in the postcard-perfect BurnhamOvery-Staithe, where a quiet path built upon a raised walkway takes you deep into the marsh. The route weaves with the creeks, passing flocks of birds and the
PHOTOGRAPHS WILLIAM THOMSON
f there is a single environment that ebbs and flows with the tide, it must surely be the salt marsh. A series of creeks criss-crossing this spectacular landscape are reminiscent of arteries, pumping life-giving fluid to the living organism as the tide breathes in and out every six hours. Although the creeks themselves are often spread thinly across the vast expanse, like fingers of a hand stretched out, they usually converge at a single choke point – the wrist – through which the saltwater ferociously pours in and out with the tide’s semi-diurnal cycle. It is here where the mellow marsh suddenly intensifies with strong streams rushing through; as the tide rises at sea, water is forced through the constriction and flows into the veins of the marsh. And then, as the tide starts to fall at sea, currents pour back out, emptying the creeks so that boats lie haphazardly in the mud. As the
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coast DISCOVERY
‘The route weaves with the creeks, passing flocks of birds and the skeletons of wooden ships slowly merging into the landscape’
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skeletons of wooden ships slowly merging into the landscape. Being a single path it is impossible to get lost and without requiring any brainpower for navigation you can totally unwind. But just as you get into a hypnotic state, a huge sand dune suddenly appears out of nowhere, a stark juxtaposition to the muddy creeks. An incision through the dune leads you on, marram grass rustling in the wind
and hiding the view through. Pushing through this blind, the scene is remarkable; a vast expanse of sand as far as you can see in either direction. Turning left and following the edge of dunes, you’ll get to the entrance to the marsh where the tide floods in and out; continuing around, you will return to the path and back to civilisation, infinitely more relaxed than when you left.
SALT MARSH WHAT TO EXPECT... STRONG STREAMS AT THE ENTRANCE Marshes are usually made up of a network of shallow creeks, all converging upon a narrow and deep channel that leads out to the sea. Tidal streams will be particularly fast here, both on the ebb and flood (as the tide rises water will rush in and when the tide falls the currents will flow out to sea).
SHELTERED WATERS WITHIN Because a large salt marsh if often connected to the sea by a single narrow channel, waves at sea crash on the beaches and very little swell reaches into the marsh. This makes the waters calm and smooth, even if it is rough out at sea, and is perfect for kayaking as your low profile allows you to keep out of any wind, merging with the landscape and not startling the birds.
BRILLIANT BIRDLIFE North Norfolk’s marshes are home to amazing birdlife; depending on the time of year, you might see avocets, marsh harriers, redshanks, oystercatchers, lapwings, sandwich terns, pink-footed geese, brent geese and more.
SOFT MUD With the arteries bisecting every corner of the marsh, expect soft mud wherever you go. If you are walking, either stick to the dry land just outside of the marsh or follow established footpaths along raised walkways that remain dry at all tides.
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North Norfolk’s villages are all situated on the edge of the marsh. A walk along the harbours will show you plaques on the buildings – some rising up to the first floor – of how high the tide rose throughout the years. At low tide on a summer’s day it can be impossible to imagine how the sea could get that high, but it is all down to Norfolk’s position at the southern end of the North Sea. When a low-pressure weather system comes in off the Atlantic, it raises the sea by 1cm for every 1millibar drop in pressure. On top of this, northerly winds funnel water down to the choke point of the Dover Straits and the sea level can rise by 3 metres. If this weather phenomenon happens at exactly the same time as a high spring tide, a storm surge happens and water spills over the banks of the marsh, turning it into an inland sea until the peak of the tide wave passes on and the sea level drops once more.
coast DISCOVERY
‘North Norfolk’s villages are situated on the edge of the marsh’
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coast DISCOVERY
WALKING The paths through North Norfolk’s marshes are perfectly suited for the most underrated coastal activity of all; walking. While many people think you need to go running to get fit, walking is in fact an incredible physical exercise often overlooked. Walking increases your cardiovascular and pulmonary (heart and lung) fitness; it builds stamina, burns excess calories, strengthens bones and fights high blood pressure and high cholesterol. Best of all, it is relaxing – and you don’t need to punish yourself like running. If there’s a nice view you can stop to savour it without worrying that your Strava app is ticking down the time. And because you’re also not panting away, breathing heavily and stomping along, you blend into the environment and absorb the sounds more intensely; the wind, the waves and the birds all merge into your consciousness and help soothe the mind. When we are ashore, a key part of my day is going for a long stroll – ideally around four miles, which
takes around an hour. This is the perfect time to get into a meditative state and let my mind wander over problems and organise my thoughts; what to write for next month’s coast, where we are going to sail next or why Venus rises at different times through the year. By giving myself just one thing to think about, my body can settle into the pace of walking and my mind can roam. By the end of that hour everything is much clearer than it was at the beginning. In this way walking becomes a multifunctional activity; it boosts your physical health, mental wellbeing, and classifies as ‘work time’. Why sit at a desk tackling a problem when you can get out and stroll in the fresh air, which is far more conducive to free thinking. If anyone in the office asks why you’re not at the desk, simply quote the famous Suffolk-born composer Benjamin Britten: ‘I work while I walk.’ Next month, William will explore what to expect from estuaries
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SEADOGS
If there’s anything more joyful than making a visit to the coast in any season, it has to be heading there with your beloved dog DOG-FRIENDLY PLACE TO STAY Sea View Place, St Ives, Cornwall These beautiful properties are set right above Bamaluz Beach, which is dog-friendly all year round, making them a terrific choice for a break with your pet at any time. 3 Sea View Place is the main cottage, sleeping four in two bedrooms, while 3a Sea View Place is an airy apartment with one bedroom. As the names suggest, both boast spectacular sea views, and are just a short walk from St Ives Harbour, with its array of bars, restaurants, independent shops and galleries. PRICE: From £518 per week for 3 Sea View Place, from £435 per week for 3a Sea View Place. HOW DO I BOOK? Go to sandytoestays.co.uk.
OPEN WATER ADVICE
MAKE A STATEMENT We love these high-quality tops from Kent coast brand Scruffy Little Terrier. Its unisex sweatshirts (from £43.95) and organic cotton T-shirts (£29.95) make ideal gifts for dog-lovers – plus there’s a fun homewares range and plenty of useful accessories for dogs themselves too (scruffylittleterrier.com).
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If you’re having a late summer break with your pooch, leading dog-friendly holiday provider Canine Cottages has these crucial safety tips: • Ensure your dog doesn’t get too cold. Look out for signs such as shaking or shivering. • Never take your dog swimming in a stagnant body of water, such as a canal. • Avoid reservoirs, fast rivers and rough seas. • Be alert to strong currents – check warnings before swimming in open water. • Check beach flags before swimming in the sea. • Bring fresh water for your dog to drink. • Be wary of uneven surfaces or sharp rocks in open water, which could hurt your dog.
coast DOGS IN ASSOCIATION WITH FORTHGLADE Let’s celebrate! Devonian dog lovers Forthglade have launched a birthday box full of goodies for celebrating a pup’s big day. Tails will wag upon sniffing out the tasty natural grain-free wet meals (beef with sweet potato & veg, plus a sardine and haddock recipe) and tasty grain free treats; soft bites with salmon or turkey. There’s also a sustainable dog toy, handy poo bag dispenser for walkies, a recipe card for baking ‘pupcakes’ and a birthday card. And it can even be personalised for your doggie! (£14.99, forthglade.com).
DOGS of the MONTH We will soon be moving from Cumbria to South Devon so I thought a picture that I recently took on the beach at Bamburgh would serve as a nice memory of our time in the North of England. Left to right they are: Louis, a Grand Basset Griffon Vendeen, Lucy, a working springer spaniel, and Emma, a Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen. Pennie Read Email your coastal canine photographs to coast.copy@kelsey.co.uk.
CARRY ON WALKING These water-resistant canvas bags from family business Barking Bags are just the thing when you are heading out on a hike with the hound, a walk with the westie or a stroll with the schnauzer. You know how it is – you need a water bottle and a ball, some poo bags, a snack, maybe an umbrella… There is an easily accessible section for treats, a handy poo bag dispenser, pockets for hand sanitiser, mesh pockets for anything that gets wet, a large main inside space and a secure zip-pocket on the back for your mustnot-lose essentials such as phone or keys. The shoulder strap can also double up as an emergency lead, if needs be. Let’s go! (£32, barkingbags.co.uk).
WORDS ANNE-CLAIRE HEELS
SOMETHING TO DROOL OVER Bournemouth’s iconic 1900s department store Bobby’s is currently being revamped and will now include a pop-up foodhall devoted entirely to dogs, so pop in if you live there or are visiting. DROOL will feature a cake shop, a Lick ‘n’ Mix station, a doggy tuck shop, a dog ball recycling centre, fish & chipflavoured dog treats, seaside-themed biscuits, Cherry ‘Barkwells’, dog doughnuts and liver cakes. One shopping trip that the dog definitely won’t mind, we suspect…. (bobbysbournemouth.com). c oastma g azine.co.uk
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coast COMPETITION
WIN A TWO-NIGHT STAY FOR FOUR IN NORFOLK coast has teamed up with The Gin Trap Inn to offer a self-catering cottage stay for four people in a scenic spot near the North Norfolk coast
T
he Gin Trap Inn is a 17th century coaching inn with 13 bedrooms, suites and new cottages located in Ringstead, only a stone’s throw from the lovely North Norfolk coast. Known for its flavour-packed, seasonal food, characterful spaces, and a sun-trap garden with an impressive play area, diners and guests are welcomed by the friendly team and feel like it’s their local as soon as they arrive. Head chef Stuart Wyllie is passionate about creating an ingredient-led, seasonal menu with dishes changing regularly based on what is available locally, and using techniques to bring
out the most flavour including cooking over coals, pickling, and fermenting. The pub’s location means it’s close to Norfolk’s best places to visit, including Holkham Hall and the wild dunes of Holkham Beach, and for seal-spotting trips from Blakeney. For more information, visit thegintrapinn.co.uk.
YOUR PRIZE
One lucky reader will win a two-night stay for four people, including breakfast, in a two-bedroom cottage at The Gin Trap Inn. The cottages have characterful bedrooms with contemporary touches, a comfortable living room and a well
kitted-out kitchen. They’re also dogfriendly for guests who want to bring a four-legged friend! The winner and their guests will also be able to enjoy a 3-course dinner for four at the pub with two bottles of house wine.
HOW TO ENTER Please go to the competition page at coastmagazine.co.uk and answer this question by 31 October: Which stately home is not far from The Gin Trap Inn? A) Hardwick Hall B) Highclere Castle C) Holkham Hall
TERMS AND CONDITIONS Prize is not valid during school holidays, bank holidays, Christmas and New Year. Prize is non-refundable and no cash alternative is available. No travel is included. Entries close at midnight on 31 October. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. Open to residents of the UK aged over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media, The Gin Trap Inn and their family members are not eligible to win. Only one entry permitted per person, no bulk entries will be accepted. The first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. Our winner will be notified within 28 days. If our winner fails to respond after three attempts at contact, a new winner will be drawn. There is no cash alternative and the prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient, Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in seeking to resolve the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods, and in that event, no financial compensation would be payable by Kelsey Media or its affiliates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition, if circumstances change that are beyond our control. coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Here at Kelsey Media we take your privacy seriously and will only use your personal information to provide the products and services you have requested from us. We will only contact you with news and special offers via the preferences you have indicated. We will never share your information with any third party without your consent. You can view our full Privacy Policy at kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy
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coast LETTERS
Your coast
Our ocean-loving readers share their news, views and photographs from all around the British Isles coastline I’D LOVE TO HEAR YOUR VIEWS! Please email me with your ideas, feedback, creative projects and reports of your coastal adventures at coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk.
Alex Fisher, Editor-in-Chief @alexfishermedia
INSPIRING ART I am writing to tell that our creative artist, Karen England, here at Lewis-Manning Hospice Care in Poole has informed me that one of our patients, David Lane, has been using coast as inspiration for his paintings. We wanted to share this picture of his with you. David has no art background but when he came here, he was interested to explore art. Lewis-Manning Hospice Care has a fantastic Arts Therapy department and patients love to take time out with our creative artist to express themselves through art in various forms. More information can be found at lewis-manning.org.uk/creative-arts-wellbeingsupport. Thank you. Ruth Wright
DELIGHTFUL DEVON I am sitting reading my subscription of coast and I wanted to share with you a personal favourite memory of mine. A holiday cottage in Appledore, Devon, on the quay. Cycle up the back road to Westward Ho!, walk around the beach and, if the tide’s out, go for a swim in the tidal pool. Another favourite is taking the little ferry across to Instow for a meal at the pub, a walk along the beach, then the local bus back. I hope to go back to Appledore this year, I love it. During a stay years ago we visited Clovelly and, many years later, my son lived and worked in the pub there, the Red Lion. During our visit to Appledore one year, we bought coast and, lo and behold, a section of the mag showed a tiny tidal pool nearby. Picked up our son from Clovelly on his day off, and drove there. Delightful. Mandy Younki
FLASH, BANG, WALLOP
WHAT YOU TWEETED… @PuffinSwim Thanks to @coastmag for supporting our eco-friendly tow floats. ‘Choosing eco-friendly floats is one-way swimmers can reduce the impact of single-use plastics’
CORNWALL IN HAMPSHIRE I am in Hampshire but feel that I have a bit of Cornish coast in my garden! Most plants seemed to hold back due to the late spring this year, but these shot up regardless. Buzzing with little bees, they are a joy, and approximately 14ft high. Teresa Willcocks
~ 1970s ~
@PiersSociety Great to see @ClevedonPierG1 as the winner of Pier of the Year 2021 in the August edition of @coastmag
Me (aged four) and my mum pictured at Bedruthan Steps, Cornwall, in 1978. Danielle
Contact us: email your coastal news, views and photographs to coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk
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Live Open Day 2nd October 2021
From contemporary coastal barn conversions to charming thatched cottages, we’ve handpicked the very best properties to bring you holiday memories to treasure.
A portfolio of over 550 luxury, self-catering holiday homes in the UK and Northern Ireland
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NOVEMBER 2021
ARTS AND CRAFTS
INSPIRED BY OUR COASTLINE
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HOW WILD SWIMMING TRANSFORMED MY LIFE
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Already a subscriber? Manage your subscription online at shop.kelsey.co.uk/myaccount DISTRIBUTION Distribution in Great Britain Marketforce (UK) Ltd, 3rd Floor, 161 Marsh Wall, London, E14 9AP Distribution in Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland Newspread Tel: +353 23 886 3850 PRINTING William Gibbons & Sons Ltd, 26 Planetary Road, Willenhall, WV13 3XA (01902 730011) williamgibbons.co.uk Kelsey Media 2021 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties. Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit https://www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy/. If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk.
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Directory
Three classic designs from Kate Lewis’s Coastline Collection. The gold bands of these stacking rings & bangles reflect the gentle ripples left in the sand by the tide, whilst the gemstones & diamonds represent the changing colours of the ocean, and sparkles of sunlight dancing on the water. Capturing memories of Calm Water Days.
WWW.KATELWEISJEWELLERY.CO.UK INSTAGRAM @KATELEWISJEWELLERY 07813 990321
REACH OVER 251,000 COAST LOVING READERS TO FIND OUT MORE INFORMATION CALL ZARA ON: 07415 325673
Inspired by coastlines around the world, LightWater Studio creates distinctive home accessories made from rustic olive wood. Each piece is hand made and shaped on an individual basis on the North Devon coast. From chopping and serving boards to bespoke cribbage boards and more, there is something for everyone. Bring the ocean into your home. For inspiration and to see more head to www.lightwaterstudio.co.uk or contact hello@lightwaterstudio.co.uk. Instagram: @lightwater_studio
For details of advertising please call Zara on 07415 325673
Directory Angela Mary Willis
Memories of summer fun, watching the world go by. Now the nights are getting longer, indulge yourself and kindle more memories with a lovely Coast Candle.
Fine Art Artist
Made with Love, for you to Love from the Highlands of Scotland.
Relax, we come to you SHOP ONLINE AT:
www.coastcandleco.com
Pembrokeshire Mobile Massage Service Book online
www.mellowmassage.co.uk
$7,6+22 *$//(5< JLIWV IUDPLQJ
ZZZ DWLVKRRJDOOHU\ FR XN 7HO &KDUOHVWRZQ 5G &KDUOHVWRZQ &RUQZDOO 3/ 1/
For details of advertising please call Zara on 07415 325673
Directory
Handcrafted map art (Est. 2013)
Working from our studio in Devon we create intricate topographic models of our scenic landscape. Capturing each hill, valley and headland in perfect detail we are able to replicate any section of the UK and beyond. Each piece is bespoke and meticulously hand cut from maps, nautical charts or aerial photographs. We can even replicate the surface of the moon and other planets. The perfect memento of our most cherished destinations.
REACH OVER
251,000 COAST LOVING READERS
info@landfall.co.uk
TO FIND OUT MORE INFORMATION CALL ZARA 07415 325673
www.landfall.co.uk
. the little art gallery .....
Whitstable castle
Artisan Farmers Market 2021 Market Dates 10am-2pm
4TH SEPTEMBER 6TH NOVEMBER
2ND OCTOBER 18TH DECEMBER
Keep up to date every month on social media @WhitstableCastleAFM The Whitstable Castle & Gardens Tower Hill, Whitstable, Kent, CT5 2BW
A Coastal contemporary gallery West Wittering West Sussex 01243 512218 www.thelittleartgallery.online
For details of advertising please call Zara on 07415 325673
Directory ¹ĺĚ ǶŠĚƙƥ Čūîƙƥîŕ ČūƥƥîijĚƙɈ ŕūēijĚƙ îŠē îƎîƑƥŞĚŠƥƙ ĿŠ ƥĺĚ ¬ūƭƥĺ ØĚƙƥɫƙ Şūƙƥ ĿŠƙƎĿƑĿŠij ŕūČîƥĿūŠƙ
SELF-CATERING PROPERTIES ON THE WEST SUSSEX COAST We offer a wide range of mainly sea front properties in this beautiful area close to Chichester and Goodwood. 01243 672217 lettings@baileys.uk.com www.baileys.uk.com
!"# $ % $ !#& $ !' ()
Caroline Bonar Bespoke bags from upcycled sails.
Unique Swim/Change bags. Ideal for wild swimmers, beach lovers and water sport enthusiasts. Each bag is made to order help to reduce landfill.
Contact Caroline 07766707093
PATTARD NORTH DEVON COAST
Use offer code #COAST for £50 off your booking.
01237 441311 www.pattard.com
Luxury self-catering properties in the stunning harbour of Porthleven, Cornwall.
Luxury barn conversions sleeping 2-8 C.H & woodburner. Near coast & pubs. 1RZ ZLWK œQH GLQLQJ RQ VLWH Pets welcome in accommodation.
On site Restaurant
www.pattardrestaurant.co.uk Tel 01237441444 for table reservation
porthlevenholidaycottages.co.uk 01326 574270
For details of advertising please call Zara on 07415 325673
Directory >TǻW ǴȥȦKJțǺ MȢǰǯȨF^ ǨȠ YǬJ ȤǪȜ LAST MINUTE OFFERS 1 and 2 nights available call Joanne on 07940 712766
Book your
e p a c s e l a t s coa HANDPICKED HOLIDAY HOMES ON THE PEMBROKESHIRE COAST
• Award-winning beaches • Stunning sea views • Log burners • Coastal walks • Freshly caught seafood • Book with confidence
Chesil Beach Lodge is owned by Paul and Joanne Loud and is situated on the Dorset coast overlooking 99 miles of the beautiful Jurassic coastline. From Portland to Start Point in Devon. All apartments have breathtaking sea views from where you can capture amazing sunsets. Walk the South West Coastal Path right from the garden gate. Explore the beautiful rolling countryside and picturesque cottages including Hardy’s Cottage Swim or sunbathe at either Have Beach or Cogden Beach both only a 5 minute walk along a coastal path. Enjoy fishing off chesil beach.
(MJǷǮDZ
BEACH LODGE
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enquiries@stbridesbaycottages.com 01437 720027 www.stbridesbaycottages.com
A variety of luxury accommodation to suit all budgets and tastes, from family homes to weekend escapes.
GET IN TOUCH
hello@sandtoestays.co.uk | 07710 238225 www.sandtoestays.co.uk Sandy Toes Stays, St Ives
For details of advertising please call Zara on 07415 325673
coast CELEBRITY
MY COAST
The design expert on BBC2’s Your Garden Made Perfect, Joel Bird remembers joyous family holidays on the Dee Estuary near Liverpool, a feeling he’s recaptured since moving to Margate on the Kent coast INTERVIEW CAROLINE WHEATER
on the estuary. It was the start of my connection to nature and the way into gardening for me. We would watch waders hunt for food, flocks of oystercatchers and black-tailed godwits, and if I hear the melancholic call of curlews I’m transported straight back there. All together we’d go on nature walks and learn the names of trees and wildflowers, and in the evenings our mums would cook corned beef hash on the camping stove. It was the best kind of happiness, and a love of nature became part of my DNA. I left Liverpool to live in London, but when you’ve lived near the sea you are always drawn back to it. After 20 years there I moved to Margate in Kent with my family in 2019. The big skies, the
views, the colours and the sense of space were a shock to the system but I feel relaxed and happier now I’m out in nature again. We live less than a mile from the coast and go to the beach all year round. I’m teaching my two children, aged eight and five, about bird species, such as types of gull, because I want to instil in them a respect for nature. We swim at Walpole Bay in Margate and are starting to venture out on our bikes to Reculver and Pegwell Bay. In summer we’ll go to the beach for the whole day, take a flask and a charcoal barbecue, and ban phones. It feels like camping. Read more about Joel’s approach to design in The Book of Shed (£20, Bonnier Books).
DEE ESTUARY PHOTOGRAPH CHRIS HYDE/SHUTTERSTOCK
I was a city boy from Walton in North Liverpool, but we used to go on camping holidays to the Wirral Peninsula, and the Dee Estuary (pictured) has had a lasting influence on my life. There were lots of cousins, eight children in all, Mum and her two sisters – we didn’t fly anywhere or travel long distances but to us it was fantastic. I remember the sandstone cliffs with paths leading down to the beach, the tidal mudflats and finding lots of clay that we’d make things out of, getting our hands dirty. My cousin Robbie would wake me up before dawn to take me bird watching
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50% SOLD STC
A BESPOKE COLLECTION OF 15 LUXURY CORNISH HARBOURSIDE HOUSES ONLY 3 & 4 BEDROOMS REMAINING · PRICES FROM £745,000 Set within an UNESCO World Heritage Site, Charlestown, Cornwall is as picturesque as it gets. Beyond the harbour lies a sheltered beach, ready-made for wild swimming. A short wander in either direction immediately immerses one in the lush countryside that borders the cove sprinkled South East Cornish coast.
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