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Homestead Fencing Consider this advice before building fences. by Lesa Wilke

22 Anniversary Special: Food Preservation Pointers Follow these tips to keep eating fresh from your garden long after harvest. by Stephanie Thurow

32 Home Chicken Processing Raise meat birds to fill your freezer. by Hope Ellis-Ashburn

40 Geothermal Controls Use ground source heat pumps. by Bill Clark

42 Warm Up the Woodstove Find the stove that’s right for your home. by Lisa Munniksma

48 Chainsaws 101 They are for more than just cutting firewood. by Daniel Johnson

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66 Taking the Leap The Spomers live their off-the-grid dreams. by Mark Chesnut

COLUMNS & DEPARTMENTS 4 Ag Bites Rodent Infestation

6 Unconventional Gardening Modern Composting

74 Breeds You Need Australian Shepherds, Colored Angora Goats & Harlequin sheep

80 Say Cheese! Reader-submitted Images

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Rat Infestations

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hat if a predator sets up house right where food, water and shelter can easily be had? This highly intelligent predator also tends to be tenacious, not to mention trouble. Welcome to the world of rat infestation. Rats pose a significant danger to human health due to the infectious diseases they carry. Humans can contract such illnesses as hantavirus, ratbite fever, salmonellellosis and lymphocytic choriomeningitis. Rats also may carry parasites that can spread such diseases as bubonic plague, Lyme disease and typhus. Rats are also a threat to a healthy flock, as they can contaminate both feed and water with their urine, feces and hair. In addition to the dangerous diseases they spread, rats also eat eggs, chicks, juveniles and small adults. Occasionally, they’ll pull the carcasses into their burrows or other concealed locations to feed their colony. Snap traps are an effective counter measure to a rat infestation. If you have identified burrow entrances or runways, set snap traps up near these holes and heavily traveled areas. Peanut butter, oatmeal and pet food can be used as bait. Be certain that you don’t set up the traps until your flock is locked up for the night and your pets are inside. A snap trap can seriously injure or even kill a curious animal. Like other sources of food, remove the traps during the daytime, preferably before a chicken decides to investigate it. Electronic traps are also highly effective. These usually run on batteries, lure a rat in via ultrasonics, then zap it once it is inside. Somewhat less effective are glue boards, which are similar to fly paper except for rodents. These work well for mice, but the larger rat can wrest itself out of this sticky situation.

Barn cats can make a world of difference when it comes to pest control around the farm.

4 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Poisons should be used with caution around livestock or poultry. Always place poisons in containment boxes; in most areas, this is the only legal way to use them. Make sure the boxes are locked in some manner. Many of them snap shut and require a tool to open, while others need to be locked with a screw or similar fastener. This will keep them from opening and exposing the contents to nontarget animals. It’s also important to keep the boxes maintained — don’t run out of poison — and keep them well fed. Be aware of secondary poisoning to domestic animals, such as cats and dogs, and in wildlife that might consume poisoned rodents. Secondary poisoning is rare, but it can happen. The Environmental Production Agency completed a safety review in 2008 of rat and mouse poison products, and based on that review, it tightened safety standards to reduce risks to humans, pets and nontarget wildlife. • Always read the product label and follow all directions when using pesticides and use the following precautions, as suggested by the EPA: • Always store pesticides away from the reach of children and pets, such as in a locked utility cabinet or garden shed. • Place traps or baits only in locations where children and pets cannot access them. • Never store pesticides near food, including pet food. • To prevent accidental poisoning of wildlife and pets that might eat a dead animal, promptly remove and dispose of carcasses of dead rodents. Disposing of a rodent requires extra precautions, due to the diseases and parasites it carries on its fur and skin. Use disposable gloves to pick up the body, then double bag it in plastic bags and place it in your garbage bin. Don’t leave a rodent in a trap for long, as it will draw insects that can spread any diseases the rat carried, and the carcass can end up a source of food for other rats and any scavengers you have in the area. hf

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Mindful Composting

n lieu of sending them to the landfill, composting nitrogen-laden food scraps — along with fallen leaves, straw and even cardboard — can pay dividends to you on the farm and to the wider world. That’s because eliminating — or at least reducing — food waste is one of the most meaningful actions we can take to mitigate climate change. In fact, 20% of greenhouse gas emissions from landfills come from food waste. So, if you don’t currently compost but you could, you definitely should. And if you already have a pile? Ideally, you are encouraging mostly aerobic, rather than anaerobic, decomposition. When carefully tended, a “hot,” oxygen-rich compost pile breaks down in a jiffy. Unfortunately, there are plenty of gardeners who toss their kitchen scraps and garden waste onto the pile but never add water or run a pitchfork through the mess.

Sure, these colder compost piles eventually decompose, but they’ll also release some degree of potentially harmful methane along the way. How much? That depends on the size and contents of your pile.

Methane Matters “Methane is a major contributor to today’s [climate] warming,” says Ilissa Ocko. “It actually contributes more to warming in the short-term than all of the CO2 emissions that we’re emitting today from fossil fuels.” Ocko is senior climate scientist and the Barbra Streisand Chair of Environmental Studies at the Environmental Defense Fund. Partly, that’s because methane is itself a heat-trapping gas, and it takes about 10 years to break down in our atmosphere. But even after that methane’s gone? “Ninety percent of the excess heat that is being trapped right now is going into the ocean,” Ocko says. “So, then you get this feedback cycle where a warmer ocean actually emits more carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. ... What ends up happening in that case is that signal ends up lasting for hundreds of years. “The CO2 we emit this year — 20% of it will still be there, warming the earth, 1,000 years from now. CO2 builds up.”

Aerobic Activity

Healthy compost has many helpers, such as microorganisms, fungi, nematodes, bugs and millipedes. 6 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Of course, compared to the methane released from all of our landfills, wastewater, livestock holdings and rice farms, the methane from one small, “cold” compost pile is negligible. But it all adds up — and, besides, with a little vigilance, you can avoid being part of the problem. As they decompose your banana peels and other organic matter, the bacteria in your compost pile produce methane. If there’s plenty of oxygen in the pile, this methane is further broken down. But what happens without enough oxygen? “The process ends at methane, and the methane is emitted,” Ocko says.

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A good temperature range for active compost is 100 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Together, your pile’s size, porosity, moisture content and carbon-to-nitrogen ratio determine whether the organisms in your compost are breaking down matter aerobically or anaerobically. It’s worth noting, too, that no pile is exclusively aerobic or anaerobic all of the time. Different kinds of organisms step up at different stages in order to decompose your raw materials.

Recipes for Success For best results, your compost pile should occupy at least 1 cubic yard, and it should contain a blend of nitrogen-rich “greens” and carbon-rich “browns.” Technically, the ideal ratio for these is 30 parts carbon for every one-part nitrogen by weight. However, it’s unrealistic to expect perfection. After all, you’ll likely be composting whatever materials you have on hand. What’s more, each individual material type has its own carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. For instance, say you have some old straw or fallen leaves to break down. By weight, straw is roughly 100 parts carbon to one-part nitrogen. Dry leaves are approximately 50 parts carbon to one-part nitrogen. Got grass clippings or leftover kitchen scraps? Grass clippings are about 15 parts nitrogen to one part carbon. And, although they’re highly variable, food scraps are around 20 parts nitrogen to one part carbon. 8 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

High in nitrogen, green materials are mostly wet or recently growing materials, such as food scraps, grass clippings, coffee grounds and manure; they supply nutrients to the compost, which is great for your garden.

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Mix greens with browns for quick decomposition and rich compost. Browns (above right) are carbon or carbohydraterich materials that serve as a food source for soil-dwelling organisms that work with the microbes to break down compost piles. Browns also add bulk and allow air to filter through the pile.

If you aren’t sure whether you’ve managed to blend a reasonable amount of carbon with nitrogen, your compost will offer up some olfactory clues. A pile that smells strongly of ammonia — think matted grass clippings on a hot day — has too much nitrogen. Just do your best to include as diverse a mix of compostable materials as possible. And, to ensure more even distribution of heavier, wetter items like melon rinds, chop these before adding them in.

Moisture & Space Along with its carbon-to-nitrogen ratio, the moisture content and porosity of your compost pile matter, too. Compost should be uniformly moist but not sopping. A pile that is too wet will break down anaerobically. It is also more likely to smell “off.” To gauge its moisture content, grab a handful of material from the pile and squeeze it in your fist. If more than a few drops of water drip out, the section sampled is probably too wet. If the handful you’re testing feels dry to the touch and nothing drips out? You likely need to add water. To be certain, test more than one section within the pile. If you find a series of alternately wet and dry areas, you might need to more thoroughly mix your ingredients. And, when it comes to creating space for oxygen to move within and throughout your pile, bulky materials like dried leaves, straw, and even small amounts of shredded paper can be invaluable. So, if after performing the squeeze test you determine that your compost

10 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

is too waterlogged, you may want to add some of these. Just keep in mind that, because these are typically very carbon-rich, they’ll skew your overall carbon-to-nitrogen ratio.

Running Hot & Cold Measuring the temperature at the center of your compost pile will further help you to determine whether your pile is likely decomposing aerobically or not. Made with extra-long probes and moisture-proof faces, most compost thermometers are designed to be left in place long-term. If you’re starting a new pile or recently added or turned your material, the temperature at its core may run anywhere from 80 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit for the first few days. Next, with a respectable carbon-to-nitrogen ratio, adequate moisture and decent airflow, your compost should really heat up. During this “thermophilic” phase, its internal temperature can reach up to 150 degrees. Pile size, makeup and moisture levels will determine how long it stays in this hot state. An internal temperature that has gone back down to the 80- to 100-degree range may indicate that the center of the pile has become too dry or that it’s time to turn the compost pile. But a change in temperature shouldn’t be your only indicator. Take a peek at the center of the pile. If it looks dark and crumbly, it may be time to move what’s on the outside edges of the heap to the center and rearrange what’s in the center back out to the edges.

Turn, Turn, Turn? How often you turn your pile — and the method you use to turn it — also can have a positive or negative environmental impact. For example, to produce compost at scale, many large commercial compost farms rely on fossil fuels to power heavy equipment for shredding and moving raw materials, as well as turning, finishing, and delivering compost. According to Steven Wisbaum, founder of the Vermont-based Champlain Valley Compost Co., “The amount fossil fuel consumed during the various steps of the composting process will impact its ‘net’ carbon footprint.” Obviously, turning your own small pile with a pitchfork and some elbow grease is a zero-emissions activity. Even so, in his work, “In Defense of the Pile Less Turned: A Case for ‘Low-Input’ Composting,” Wisbaum suggests turning too frequently can be counterproductive. “Most of the oxygen added to a pile during turning is used up by the microbial populations within hours, or even minutes of turning,” he writes. “Therefore, unless additional oxygen is being provided under pressure (i.e., via ‘forced aeration’) or a pile is turned hourly, the purpose of turning is not to add oxygen.”

Instead? Turning improves a pile’s porosity. In other words, it creates additional space for oxygen and carbon dioxide to move throughout the compost. “If turning is being done primarily to restore porosity and keep the decomposition process moving at a moderate pace,” he writes, “turning can be timed to occur after internal temperatures have dropped 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit from a high of 131 to 145 degrees Fahrenheit.” As you pay close — or closer — attention to your compost, you just may find that you’re generating nutrient-rich compost in a matter of several weeks rather than months. Better still, you’ll have kept all of that material out of your local landfill. And, if you limited methane and carbon release in the process? “Reducing methane emissions is really the key lever to slowing down the rate of warming in the near-term with the benefit of also helping in the long-term,” Ocko says. “And CO2 is kind of the opposite; it’s the main lever in that, if we reduce emissions of CO2, that’s our best chance at having a better climate in the longterm. … They definitely feed off of each other.” hf Susan Brackney is a freelance writer and author of The Insatiable Gardener’s Guide and Plan Bee.

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September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

FENCING

HOMESTEAD

12 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Before that post-hole digger hits the ground, consider this advice before building livestock fences. BY LESA WILKE

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September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

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ermanent livestock fencing is a big investment of time and money on the homestead, so it’s important to think through all the key aspects before building it. There are many types to choose from, but it’s critical that the fencing be carefully matched to your farm needs. Commonly used livestock fence types include board, barbed wire, woven wire, high-tensile, cattle panels and electric (see “Popular Fencing Types” on page 18 for descriptions) or combinations of these. Aspects to consider when choosing fencing include legalities; the type, age and gender of the livestock to be pastured; areas to be fenced; and material durability versus cost.

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LEGALITIES The first things to check when planning to pen your animals are the applicable laws in your area. It would be devastating to plan and construct homestead fencing only to find that it wasn’t legal and needed to be removed.

Each state has laws that regulate livestock ownership, and these laws typically require owners to fence their animals. They also define what makes a legal fence, who is responsible for building and maintaining fencing, and who has liability if animals get out. Many local governments also have fence laws, and these may prohibit some types of fencing. Good places to start investigating the laws that apply in your area are with an internet search (for state laws) and your city or county planning office.

SPECIES SPECIFICS Livestock fencing is normally used to keep animals in and predators out; however, knowing the type of livestock you intend to keep is crucial to selecting the correct fence type. Specific kinds of fencing are better suited to some species than others. For example, board fencing is often used for cattle, horses or sheep but is considered less suitable for small animals such as goats, hogs and poultry because they can slip out between the boards.

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Because of the cost of lumber, board fences (above right) work best in small sections around farm buildings, yards and corrals.

Try to consider all the types of animals you may own over the life of your farm and how you’ll manage pasturing them. Plan with flexibility in mind because conditions and livestock species frequently change as time passes. The better you can identify all the animals you intend to keep, the better you can plan fencing that will successfully contain them all.

MAP PLANNED FENCE AREAS After determining what types of fences are allowed in your area and what kind of livestock you plan to own, prepare a map of your homestead and the locations to be fenced. Planning what areas are to be used to confine each type of animal is the key to good fencing. Remember that some types of livestock can be pastured together, if the fencing is selected to accommodate all species. The easiest way to prepare a map of your farm and the areas to be fenced are to start

LESA WILKE

JNIX/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

An electrified, high-tensile fence can last 25 to 40 years.

with an aerial photograph. A good aerial photograph will show the details of your land and can usually be obtained from your local tax office. Or, you can go to the Google Earth website or app, enter your address and print out a two-dimensional aerial map. As you plan on your aerial map, utilize straight fences wherever possible because they’re cheaper and easier to build. Plan lanes to connect livestock barns and outbuildings with all planned pasture areas. Gates for animals and equipment should be located in the corners of pastures closest to barns for convenient entry and exit. Also, allow for several feet of empty border around the outside of fences so that you can easily inspect and maintain them. Livestock will need access to water in the fields, and it’s often desirable to pasture males, females and weaned young stock separately. Finally, while

LIVESTOCK FENCING SELECTION GUIDE BARBED WIRE

RAIL/ BOARD

ELECTRIC

HIGH TENSILE

WOVEN WIRE

CATTLE PANEL

Livestock Type

cattle

cattle, horses, sheep

cattle, goats, hogs, horses, sheep, poultry

cattle, hogs, horses

cattle, goats, hogs, horses, sheep, poultry

cattle, goats, hogs, horses, sheep

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good

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high

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medium

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16 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

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Popular Fencing Types BARBED WIRE: These fences are

usually constructed using three to five strands of barbed wire spaced 8 to 16 inches apart horizontally. The wire is typically strung on posts spaced 10 to 12 feet apart. Barbed wire is often used for cattle pastures since cattle have tough hides. However, it’s considered unsuitable for most other livestock because of the risk of injury from the sharp barbs. BOARD OR RAIL: There are many options available today for building board fences. Types of board available include painted, treated, plastic and vinyl coated. Board fences are commonly 4 to 5 feet tall. This type of fence is popular on horse farms or situations where expensive animals are being confined. The labor and materials needed to construct these fences make it one of the costliest. Therefore, it’s also often used for smaller pastures and paddocks built to hold larger male livestock. CATTLE PANELS: Cattle panels are made of heavy gauge steel 1⁄4 to 3⁄8 inches in diameter welded together in squares. They are 3 to 4 feet high and are usually 16 feet long. There are panels designed specifically for most types of livestock (i.e., hog panels for hogs, etc.), 18 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

TONY CAMPBELL/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Electric net fencing offers a portable, electrifiable prefabricated fence that’s affordable and easy to setup, move and store.

planning and before actually building, verify exactly where your property lines run so that you don’t build your fences on neighbors’ land. Dave Perozzi, owner of Wrong Direction Farm (www.wrongdirectionfarm.com), raises grass-fed beef and pastured poultry in upstate New York. He recommends that those new to a piece of land, particularly those in snow regions, should plan your fences but wait through the first winter before building them. “Build fences on the windward side of hedgerows because on the leeward side snow can drift and accumulate to great depths,” he says. “We have places where trees and topography conspire together to bury 4-foot-tall fences in dense snow. In one case, the neighbors’ bull was able to walk out of his pasture into ours because the snow drifts provided a ramp over the perimeter fence.”

and they can be configured and reconfigured in many ways. They can also be cut into smaller sections. The individual panels are somewhat expensive so they are typically used for smaller pasture applications. ELECTRIC: These are normally constructed from multiple strands of smooth electrified wires strung on strong posts. The number of wire strands and horizontal spacing depend on the livestock being fenced. A fence controller is used to energize the wires and selecting a controller that will provide a strong enough shock to deter your livestock is critical. Once animals learn that they can get through an electric fence, it is difficult to keep them contained. Animals with tough hides or thick coats (such as cattle or sheep) can withstand stronger shocks. Electric fences are usually cost effective and are frequently used in conjunction with other fence types — to either better contain livestock or to keep predators out. For example, electric strands placed at the top and bottom (on the outside) of woven wire fencing can be used to keep predators like coyotes out. HIGH-TENSILE WIRE: For this type of fence, stronger (high-tensile) wire is strung and held in tension

between end posts which may be spaced quite far apart. Permanent tension springs and line stretchers maintain tension in the wire. The number of wire strands used and horizontal placement depend on the livestock being fenced. It’s typical to electrify at least one wire strand to prevent livestock from standing or rubbing on the wires and moving them out of place. A well-designed high-tensile wire fence is safe for livestock, easily adapted to uneven terrain, has a long life, requires little maintenance and looks good. They provide better livestock restraint and predator control when electrified. WOVEN WIRE: This type of fencing consists of horizontal and vertical wires woven into a grid with wire “knots” wrapped around the intersecting wires to hold the fence together. The grid spacing selected depends on the animals being fenced with smaller grids being used for smaller livestock. Many combinations of wire sizes and grid spacing as well as fence heights are available. Posts are typically placed 8 to 16 feet apart. Woven wire fencing is suitable for almost all types of livestock and is particularly popular for containing goats, sheep, poultry and pigs.

We’ ve Got ’em !

LESA WILKE

Woven wire fencing with electric strands on top and bottom provide great combination fencing.

FENCE SELECTION

MATERIAL DURABILITY & COST

Once you know what is legal, the species to be fenced and where the fences will be located, it’s time to select the specific fence type for each area. Keep in mind that fencing types can be combined to make a more effective solution. The sidebar on page 16 identifies recommended fence types for differing animals. When choosing the fence(s) for your homestead, remember that male livestock may require stronger enclosures — particularly during mating season — and young livestock may slip through fencing if the grid or wire spacing is too large.

No matter what type of fencing you select, choose the highest quality materials that you can afford. Selecting durable construction materials will be more expensive initially but can extend the life of a fence by 10 to 20 years. Cutting costs on materials typically results in livestock losses and fences that fail prematurely. For example, wire for many types of fencing is coated with zinc (galvanized) to prevent rusting. The thickness of the zinc coating controls how long the wire is resistant to rust, with thicker coatings preventing rust longer. Class 1 fence wire has the thinnest coating while Class 3 fence wire has the thickest. Choosing a heavier gauge

20 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

nless you know exactly what you will do on your homestead now and in the future, it’s probably not possible to design perfect forever farm fencing. However, by carefully planning and choosing fencing

LESA WILKE

Class 3 wire over a lighter gauge Class 1 wire will cost more; however, it’ll last much longer and require less maintenance. Also, a fence is only as strong as its posts, so budgeting enough to purchase sturdy posts is very important. There are typically two types of posts used, anchor and line posts. Anchor posts are used at corners and gates and give fences strength and stability so should be given priority. Line posts are evenly spaced between the anchor posts and hold up the fencing material. Posts can be made from wood or metal, but wooden posts should be treated to prevent rotting where they contact the soil. The type of fencing you choose will dictate how far apart posts are placed. This can range from 8 feet for woven wire fencing to 50 feet for high-tensile fencing. Obviously, it’s extremely important that posts be sized and spaced appropriately so they support your fence for many years.

systems and materials, you can give yourself maximum flexibility for whatever your homestead will become. Strategic planning before building results in enjoyable livestock pastures that will save you time, money and effort down the road. hf

For goats, choose wire that can withstand climbing and leaning and that they can’t get their heads stuck through. A woven wire and electric combo (left) might be required to keep some goats contained.

Lesa Wilke has raised Nigerian Dwarf goats, Buckeye chickens, honeybees and produce on her small farm in northeastern Ohio. Her writing has inspired new homesteaders on their journey to more sustainable lifestyles via her blog Better Hens and Gardens (www.betterhens andgardens.com).

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FOOD-PRESERVATION

Pointers

Follow these tips to keep eating fresh from your garden long after harvest. BY S T E P H A N I E T H U R O W

t’s harvest season! The many months of hard work that gardeners and farmers have put in throughout the year have come to fruition. As autumn approaches and the temperatures drop, it’s time to collect the crops before the season changes yet again. Nothing is better than cooking up wholesome meals for those you love, sharing the abundance of homegrown goodness with friends and family and donating the excess to those in need. However, don’t forget to preserve a bit of the harvest, too. Preserving allows you to enjoy food at its peak flavor, all throughout the year. Preserving food is a smart solution to avoiding food waste, and it stocks the pantry with nutritious food for months to come. Not to mention, homemade preserves make a unique and special

22 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

heartfelt gift. There are several safe ways to preserve food from the comfort of your own home, including the most popular methods: cold storage, freezing, dehydrating, water bath and pressure canning, curing and smoking, and fermenting. COLD STORAGE is an effective way to store root crops, such as beets, turnips, carrots and potatoes as well as many other fruits, vegetables and other food. Cold storage keeps the temperature cool and the environment humid. FREEZING is ideal for fresh vegetables, fruits and meat, and extends the life of the food by up to a year, if packaged properly. DEHYDRATION is an excellent option for drying herbs, fruit, vegetables and meat. Removing moisture from the food so that it can’t spoil preserves the food.

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September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

STEPHANIE THUROW

Fresh cucumbers become dill pickles when processed in a hot water bath canner.

PRESSURE CANNING is used for preserving low acid food with a pH above 4.6, such as meat and vegetables. WATER BATH CANNING is the method used for preserving pickles and fruit, and other acid food with a pH of 4.6 or lower. CURING & SMOKING is most commonly used for making cured meats, such as ham, salami, and bacon; bacon is also often smoked. Curing primarily uses salt or sugar to draw moisture from the food. Once cured (or brined), the food is then cold or hot smoked, which requires specific temperature control for extended periods of time.

24 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

FERMENTATION preserves food, makes it more nutritious in many ways and offers healthy-belly bacteria, commonly known as probiotics. Here are 20 of my top tips for preserving the harvest this year.

KEEP CLEAN Before preserving with any method of food preservation, always clean your food prep space and supplies with warm water and soap. Pull your hair back and change into clean clothes. Be aware of cross contamination when handling food. Food borne illnesses are

STEPHANIE THUROW

Do not tilt your canning jars when adding them to the canner or removing them after processing. Jars should be kept upright.

When making jams and jellies, a good tip is to use 1⁄4 underripe fruit and 3⁄4 fully ripe fruit. Underripe fruit has a bit more pectin and acid than fully ripe fruit. Pectin is naturally occurring in fruit, and pectin is what helps gel the preserves. This tip is especially helpful if you don’t want to add commercial pectin to your jam.

powdery residue off your canning jars after processing, add a couple tablespoons of white vinegar to your water bath canning pot when heating it up. The white powder that sometimes accumulates is simply mineral deposits from the water. It’s totally harmless and will rinse right off once jars are fully cooled, though it can be avoided with a little splash of white vinegar. The same trick works when pressure canning as well.

PICKLES

WASH YOUR PRODUCE

To make crunchy pickles when canning or fermenting, use freshly harvested produce and preserve within 48 hours of harvest; the sooner the better. Also, cucumber varieties specifically grown for pickling keep crunchier once pickled. For optimal crunch, use pickling cucumbers 3 to 4 inches (or smaller) in size.

When water bath or pressure canning produce, be sure to scrub the produce well to remove any debris and peel the veggies (if applicable). It’s important to remove as much dirt and bacteria as possible to lessen the risk of spoilage.

completely avoidable when the proper precautions are taken.

JAMS & JELLIES

WHITE VINEGAR To help prevent mineral build-up on the interior of your canning pot and keep the white

GAUGE THE GAUGE When using pressure canners with dial gauges, remember to check the gauge annually for accuracy. Dial gauges can usually be checked at the local hardware store or local extension office. Otherwise, you can send the

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Make Homemade Apple Pectin To Use In Jams & Jellies WWW.HOBBYFARMS.COM/ HOMEMADE-APPLE-PECTIN

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THE MATTER OF FOOD /UNSPLASH

Pickled cabbage is rich in vitamin B6.

gauge to the manufacturer for an inspection (varies by brand). Weighted gauges don't need to be tested. Before pressure canning, also check the control valve or petcock and steam pressure gauge to make sure the steam can vent and clean it out if need be. Additionally, always remember to inspect the rubber seal to check for damage, stretching or shrinkage — replace if needed.

Handle Pressure Always preserve with safe recipes that are written based on tested USDA-approved methods for home food preservation. When water bath canning, always remember to adjust your timer based on your altitude. Atmospheric pressure is lower at higher altitudes, so water boils at a lower temperature. Therefore, time will need to be adjusted per the altitude you are at. When pressure canning, higher altitudes will require an increase in the pressure. Reference the altitude adjustment charts included in your recipe books. 26 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

WHEN PRESSURE DROPS When pressure canning, if the pressure ever drops below the required level, turn the heat back up to the target pressure and reset the timer for the full processing time. Even if the pressure drops at the end of the directed time, you must start completely over, get to the target pressure once again and reprocess for full time per the recipe.

NO TILT! Despite what you see all over the internet, it’s not recommended to tilt your canning jars when adding them to the canner or removing them after processing. Jars should be kept upright, as tilting the jar could cause food to spill into the sealing area of the lid, which could ultimately lead to the jar not properly sealing and ultimately spoiling. Also, be sure not to touch the lids or rings of your hot jars. I see this all too often, where people are eager to wipe away the

water from the jar lid or want to test if the lid has sealed, and accidentally push down the canning lid. That’s a big no-no. Leave the jars to completely cool, without touching them for 12 to 24 hours, as directed per the recipe you are following.

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STUDY SALINITY When fermenting vegetables, occasionally recipes will reference the salinity of the brine. To figure out the salinity, a quick method is to weigh your water in grams, then multiply it by the salinity desired. For example, if I were trying to obtain 3% salinity with 1 cup of water (approximately 236 grams), I would multiply 236 grams by 0.03, which equals 7.08. I’d need to add approximately 7.0 grams of salt to my one cup of water to obtain 3% salinity.

BELOW THE BRINE When fermenting produce, it’s important to keep the fruits and vegetables below the brine level. Anything above the brine is susceptible to mold. As long as everything is held below the brine (usually with assistance of a fermentation weight or other food-safe weight alternative), it will be safe in the anerobic environment. Through the process of lactofermentation, also known as wild fermentation, small air bubbles are created which can push the produce above the brine level; this is common when fermenting sauerkraut. Therefore, it's very important to check on your ferments every couple of days to make sure everything is still submerged below the brine, and if not, use a clean utensil or a washed hand to push it back down below the brine.

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GRAB SOME GRAPE LEAVES A couple fresh grape leaves added to your pickles when Circle No. 128 on the Reader Service Card.

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Fermenting pickles with a raspberry leaf (above right) adds tannins. Curing primarily uses salt or sugar to draw moisture from the meat (opposite page).

fermenting will help to retain the crunch. Grape leaves, as well as horseradish leaves, bay leaves, oak leaves, raspberry leaves and black tea leaves (just to name a few), contain tannins. Tannins are naturally occurring and help inhibit the enzymes that soften the pickles. Only one to two leaves is recommended per quart jar of pickles, as adding too many leaves can have the adverse effect and make the pickle soft. Note: Different leaves offer different flavors to the outcome of your pickle ferment. For leaves that do not add additional flavor, use grape, oak or raspberry leaves.

STAY CURRENT Current approved methods for safe home food preservation are always changing, so be sure to reference the National Center for Home Food Preservation website for revisions and the most current approved methods for food preservation (https:// nchfp.uga.edu/).

28 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

STEPHANIE THUROW

When dehydrating fruit (above), choose mature, firm fruits for the highest sugar and nutritional content.

RINGS & JARS Before storing homemade canned goods, remove the canning ring and clean the jar to remove any food particles. Label the jar contents and date when it was made. It’s not recommended to leave the rings on the jars or to stack the jars when storing. The reasoning is because if a jar of food were to spoil, by leaving the ring on or stacking the jars, you are forcing the lid on and therefore would miss signs of spoilage. If the ring is removed from the jar and they are not stacked, on the off chance that something spoils, the lid would be able to push off the jar and you’d immediately know to discard the jar of food.

BE COOL Store canned goods in a cool, dry, dark space for best food quality. Keep out of direct sunlight, as light could cause discoloration and damage the quality of the preserve. According to the National Center for Home Food Preservation, the best

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Dry Salting When fermenting vegetables, dry salting refers to massaging or mixing salt into fresh produce to draw out the liquid from the produce naturally. The liquid that is created through dry salting is the natural brine that you will ferment with. To make a brine when fermenting refers to dissolving salt in water, which will be used to submerge the produce in. Starter cultures are living microorganisms that help to kick off fermentation, usually called for when making dairy ferments such as yogurt or cheese. Starter cultures are not required when fermenting vegetables. You may use various types of salt when fermenting, just reference a salt conversion chart to see how different grains measure.

temperature to store your canned goods is between 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. A basement, pantry, bottom level of a kitchen cupboard or even the bottom shelf of a closet would be ideal. I’ve even heard of people storing their canned goods under their bed.

STAY COOL If you have the space, freezing is a great alternative to canning food for preservation. Freezing food retains much of the original flavor and preserves most of the nutrition. One tip to minimize ice crystals on your frozen food is to chill the food in the refrigerator prior to freezing. Remember to always label and date packages prior to freezing.

HUMIDITY CONTROL

FOUND IN STORES AND ONLINE

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A Seasonal Approach to Canning @ Heritage Acres Homestead WWW.HOBBYFARMS.COM/SEASONAL-CANNING

If storing fresh produce in the refrigerator, keep in mind that September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Tie sprigs or branches of herbs into small bunches and hang — leaves downward — to dry herbs.

vegetables require higher humidity conditions than fruit. If your refrigerator has crisper drawers with controls, adjust them accordingly for optimum storage. If you have a root cellar for storage, straw, hay and wood shavings are great options for insulation, but avoid any materials that have been treated with pesticides.

DRY HERBS Herbs are quick and easy to dry and store for year-round use. Not only are dried herbs terrific for cooking with, they’re also great for making homemade teas, soaps and salves. Harvest herbs when they are young and tender, as they will have more flavor and aroma. Drying can be done in a dehydrator or in an oven, or can even be air dried. When air drying, hang small bundles of clean herbs in a dry, airy place, out of direct sunlight. Herbs are sufficiently dried and ready for storage when they are crisp and brittle. 30 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

TWO IS BETTER THAN ONE Two thermometers should always be used when smoking meat, one thermometer to monitor the smoker temperature and one thermometer to monitor the temperature of the product you are smoking.

othing is more satisfying to me than spending an afternoon in the kitchen preserving. It’s especially meaningful when a friend or family member offers to lend a hand. Memories are made, stories are shared, and future generations learn invaluable life lessons through the process. Happy Preserving! hf A certified master food preserver and food preservation instructor from Minnesota, Stephanie Thurow has written Can It & Ferment It (2017), WECK Small-Batch Preserving (2018) and WECK Home Preserving (2020). She has special interest in vegetable fermentation and water bath canning and is known for creating easy to follow recipes. You can find her online at www.instagram.com/minnesotafromscratch or https://minnesotafromscratch.wordpress.com.

farm storehouse compiled by Sarah E. Coleman

1 3

7 6

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HOME CHICKEN PROCESSING

32 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Raise meat birds to fill your freezer with healthy, great-tasting poultry. ARTICLE & PHOTOS BY HOPE ELLIS-ASHBURN

arlier this year, product shortages were showing up across the supply chain as the COVID-19 pandemic continued to interfere with shipping, demand, supply and many other areas of the global economy (“Supply chain interrupted: Here’s everything you can’t get now and why,” CNN Newswire, posted May 10, 2021). Chicken, whether it be at the grocery store or on the menu at a fast-food restaurant, is in short supply, driving up prices and causing a general difficulty in meeting demand. To compensate, some restaurants have even taken meals such as chicken tenders off the menu entirely. In addition to the supply shortage, many Americans have undergone a change of perspective brought about by long months in quarantine. With the idea of circumventing shortages, the extended months in isolation saw numerous Americans planting a garden, some for the first time, while others looked to begin or refresh their skills in raising meat animals. The combination of the two issues has made a shortage of chicken a very real issue. In short, there has likely never been a better time to learn how to process your chickens. However, long before the pandemic began, producers John Kolenda of KC Farms and Greg Nance of Sweet Grace Farm were raising their chickens to supply meat and eggs to family, friends and others. Kolenda shares his method of how to process chickens while Nance weighs in on packaging. Before the process even begins, Kolenda first advises to select male chickens in a sexed batch, if possible. Straight-run, also known as mixed batches, will also work, but female birds typically don’t produce as much meat. Secondly, to avoid having feces or food in the digestive tract at the time of processing, feed should be withheld for approximately 8 to 12 hours before beginning. Nance sells his live birds before processing so that the exercise becomes more about processing birds with a friend rather than selling the bird after it has been processed. Both producers recommend watching one or more YouTube videos on the subject to thoroughly familiarize yourself with the techniques you’ll be using during processing. [See the Hobby Farms video on how to butcher a chicken at www. hobbyfarms.com/how-to-butcher-a-chicken.]

EQUIPMENT Before you start, have the following on-hand. • PROCESSING CONES MOUNTED ON A WOOD FRAME. Purchase the size appropriate for the bird you’ll be processing and a sufficient number to accommodate the number of birds you’ll be working with. • KNIVES. You’ll need at least two — one for use by the killing cone(s) and one for your processing table. • KNIFE SHARPENER • (2) 30-QUART BOILING POTS WITH LIDS, one mounted on a gas burner for use during processing. The second pot will be used for packaging. • THERMOMETER • RUBBER GLOVE • CHICKEN-PLUCKING MACHINE or drill attachment (This is optional, as plucking can be done by hand, but extremely useful.) • PLIERS for removal of any remaining feathers missed by the chicken plucking machine • PROCESSING TABLE WITH SINK • STRAWBERRY CORER or another gutting tool • POULTRY OR MEAT SHEARS • (3) 5-GALLON BUCKETS for feet, livers, hearts, guts • 2 LARGE COOLERS — one filled with water and some ice for rinsing the processed bird and bringing down its temperature; the second filled with mostly ice to further reduce temperature. The coolers also keep the processed birds from spoiling until packaging begins. • POULTRY SHRINK WRAP BAGS • ZIP TIES

PRO TIPS

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• Set up near sources of electricity and water that are also easy to clean up. • Grassy surfaces or concrete pads work best. • The thickness of each bird’s feathers and skin will determine how often you need to sharpen your knife blades. A good rule of thumb is to do so at the first sign of difficulty in making a quick, clean cut. • As you may not wish to process chickens outdoors in cold weather, time of year plays a role. Cornish and Cornish-cross chickens grow out in around 6 to 8 weeks. Order your chicks so that you’ll be ready to process on days with comfortable temperatures.

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

This is a chicken carcass as seen just after removal from the hot water dip and from the inside of the plucking machine.

Kolenda demonstrates how to make the incision that will kill the bird as quickly and painlessly as possible.

PROCESSING: STEP 1 After securing the bird by the feet, place it upside down in the processing cone. You may need to hold the body of the bird with your left hand while using your right hand to gently pull and position the head and neck through the opening at the bottom of the cone.

PROCESSING: STEP 2 With one hand holding the head make the incision directly behind the ear cutting about halfway through the neck. Birds with heavier feathering or thicker skin due to age may require more pressure from the knife. Once the incision has been made, pulling and placing downward pressure on the head and neck will result in a faster bleed out. To speed up the process, a second incision may be made on the opposite side of the neck. Bleed out takes only minutes. For example, if processing four birds at a time, your first bird will typically be finished by the time you complete the fourth.

PRO TIP • To expedite the process, move your knife along with you from station to station. 34 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

The chicken carcass has been placed on the processing table. Note the incision point on the neck. This is the correct area to cut to kill the chicken inside the processing cone.

PRO TIPS • Water should be started to boil before processing begins. Your thermometer can help you to make sure that you are maintaining the correct temperature. Cold water may be added to reduce the temperature of the water that has gotten too hot while a lid can help keep the temperature steady. More expensive thermostatic systems can also be used that keep the water at a constant temperature. • Be careful when pulling the bird out so as not to allow the water to extinguish your flame.

PROCESSING: STEP 3 Grasping the bird by both feet, lift it up and out of the processing cone. With a gloved hand to protect against the hot water and steam, dip the carcass approximately three to four times into the 30-quart boiling pot. The ideal temperature is 150 degrees Fahrenheit. A water temperature of 130 degrees will take longer for the bird to reach the plucking stage. Temperatures above 150 degrees will damage the bird’s skin. While still edible for the family, birds with damaged skin may not be suitable

John Kolenda of KC Farms demonstrates how the correct way to remove chicken feet during processing. Feet can be saved and dehydrated for use as dog treats.

Remove the head. The neck can be paired down a second time for ease of packaging. Necks can be discarded or saved for stock.

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Loosen the windpipe and crop.

Kolenda has made the initial incision as he prepares to remove the chicken’s innards.

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for resale. You will know that your bird is ready when you can easily pullout a few wing feathers.

PROCESSING: STEP 4 Transport the carcass by the feet to the chicken-plucking machine. Once the machine is on, periodically add a small amount of water. After just a few minutes in the machine, the bird’s feathers will be almost completely removed. Birds that don’t defeather well can be dipped back into the hot water and run through the machine a second time. Sometimes the machine will break the bird’s legs. As with any skin-damaged carcasses, these birds are often better suited to piecing up for family consumption rather than selling as whole birds.

PRO TIPS • Feathers will need to be periodically cleared from the machine to avoid clogging it. • Any feathers that remain on the carcass once the bird has cleared the machine can be plucked by hand using a pair of pliers.

PROCESSING: STEP 5 Lifting the bird by the feet, it should now be carried to the processing table. The first step in processing involves using a sharp knife to remove the feet. For the ideal cutting location, use your thumb to search for the valley located between the foot and the leg. If desired, discarded feet can be placed in a separate bucket for later dehydration and use as dog treats. Poultry shears should be used to remove the head and neck. For ease of packaging, cut the neck as close to the body as possible. Optional: The neck can be saved for stock. Place both index fingers inside the hole created by the removal of the neck and head. Pull in opposite directions to allow for the widening of the hole, which will aid in the location and removal of the esophagus and windpipe. Using your thumb or thumb and finger, dig up under the windpipe and pull until it pops loose allowing for ease of removal out the back of the bird. Repeat the process for the windpipe and crop. These organs are slimy and can be difficult to work loose.

This is how to correctly widen the incision point.

Kolenda demonstrates the correct shape of the hand as he scoops out the inside of the bird.

Kolenda uses a knife to free the scooped-out innards.

Using a water hose, Kolenda rinses out the inside of the bird.

36 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

PRO TIP • Sharpen your knife as often as necessary to achieve ease of cutting between birds.

Next, use the palm of your hand to press down on the breast of the bird to make the skin in this area tight. Use a sharp knife to make a small slit directly below the vent. Be careful not to cut too deep as you could pierce and cause leakage from the intestines or other organs that are located here. As with the neck incision, insert both index fingers on the top and bottom of the incision pulling in opposite directions to widen the hole. When the hole is wide enough, insert your hand using a scooping motion to secure the innards in your hand, then pull back out of the hole. You may need to repeat this step more than once cutting the organs free with a knife once they are out of the bird. Remove the tail using a sharp knife. Then check for any remaining internal organs such as the heart and lungs. The strawberry corer is an excellent tool to peel organs away from the ribs and aid in getting those remains out the back of the bird. Finally, use a hose to rinse out the gutted carcass. For presentation purposes, you can make a slit in the extra skin at the back of the bird so that it can be used to secure the feet.

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PROCESSING: STEP 6 Processed birds should first be placed in the cooler containing mainly cold water with some ice. As this cooler becomes full, the first birds processed can be moved over to the cooler containing mostly ice.

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PACKAGING Once all of the birds have been processed, it’s time to bring them indoors for packaging. A pot of similar or identical size to your scalding pot works well. The water temperature should be brought up to around 200 degrees and can September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Kolenda shows the finished product that is now ready to be placed inside the first cooler.

38 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

safely exceed this temperature until it reaches the boiling point. Before packaging, giblets can be bagged or wrapped and placed inside of the bird’s body cavity. Then, the entire bird is placed inside of a shrinkwrap sleeve or bag. Once bagged, twist the wrap tightly to remove as much air as possible. Then, dip the bagged bird in the scalding water, which allows the wrap to shrink to fit the bird. Next, zip tie the twisted end to seal the bag closed. Once packaged, the bird should be weighed and this information, along with the date processed, can be recorded on a label attached to the wrap. Selling prices will vary by region, but Nance sells his for around $3.95 per pound. Pricing the birds for profit can be a struggle. “Chicks cost around $3 each after you pay for shipping,” Nance says. “Then, once the chicks are home you can expect up to a 10% loss. Then there is keeping them warm, fed, watered and clean for about four weeks in a shelter, then relocating them to a field in a chicken tractor, continuing feed, water and moving the tractor daily for the next four to five weeks, keeping predators away, etc. It’s quite an investment.” This list doesn’t take into consideration the cost involved with killing and processing. Making use of the entire bird was an important factor for both producers. Chicken feet, for example, can be dehydrated and fed to dogs; necks can be used for stock; and organs can be composted for use in the garden.

Circle No. 130 on the Reader Service Card.

4HE %SSENTIAL 0OULTRY 0UBLICATION

ith practice, processing a chicken takes less than 10 minutes from start to finish. Despite the work and costs involved, it can be a fulfilling exercise in self-sufficiency in which the entire family can take part. hf

Hope Ellis-Ashburn lives with her family on a century farm in the Sequatchie Valley of southeast Tennessee. Her latest book is Kimbrook Arabians: How an Unlikely Midwestern Couple Influenced an Ancient Breed.

&"" !! $!%! September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

GEOTHERMAL

CONTROLS Use ground source heat pumps for heating and cooling on the homestead. BY BILL CLARK

40 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

round source heat pumps last longer, require much less maintenance and are far more energyefficient than conventional airsource systems such as a furnace or boiler. GSHPs are also more environmentally friendly, having a lower refrigerant charge per ton of cooling. The only possible drawback is the installation cost, but the small farm with a tractor handy takes care of that problem. Did you know that more than 50,000 new GSHP systems are installed every year in the United States, in every possible climate and circumstance? continued on page 60

Hundreds of no-cost, energy-saving ideas at work, at home, in the yard, on the road, and in your lifestyle. ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY!

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A thousand more tips are low-cost DIY projects easily done with a few items from your local hadware store. Wow!

whclark.com Circle No. 110 on the Reader Service Card.

HOBBY FARMS PRESENTS

GR WING

GOOD

Check out our new podcast, Hobby Farms® Presents: Growing Good, hosted by former Hobby Farms editor Lisa Munniksma. Listen to chats with small-scale growers and sustainable farmers about how they started, what they’re doing now, and what drives them to keep growing. Find us on Apple podcasts, Spotify and wherever you get your podcasts.

;OYW\U ZWTS PSbbS` T]` g]c O\R g]c` V]`aS Installation to install a ground source heat pump system isn’t cheap, but if you have your own tractor and the right attachments, you can probably dig the needed trenches yourself.

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September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Warm Up the

Woodstove

Find the stove that’s right for your home-heating needs. BY LISA MUNNIKSMA

CREATETHIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

COURTESY CENTRAL BROILER

An outdoor wood furnace is another cost-effective, energy efficient way to heat the home.

eating accounts for the top energy use in your home, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration. If you use electric heat, compare your January utility bill to your April bill, and this becomes clear. In off-grid living, heating with renewable resources is an efficient and economic bet. Living in a small home in Kentucky, I heat solely with a woodstove, and I use about two cords of wood each winter, which costs about $300 — or less, if I were to cut it myself. Compare this to when I lived in a slightly larger but more well-insulated home and had an electricity bill of $200 each month throughout winter. Also consider that Kentucky has a gray and sometimes interminably long winter season, but nothing compared to folks farther north. In 2020, I shopped for a new woodstove, with efficiency in mind. I looked at dozens of models from big-box stores, specialty hearth retailers and manufacturers’ websites. In this article, I’ll tell you about my experience and offer advice from a few experts on purchasing the best woodstove for your hobby farm home-heating needs.

44 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

HEATING BY THE SQUARE FOOT When sorting through woodstove web pages and glossy brochures, look past the idyllic photos with perfectly clean floors and meticulously painted walls, and pay attention to how well that stove is going to heat your actual setting. Cal Wallis, who cofounded the Canadabased Wood Heat Organization in 1999, suggests some skepticism when reading manufacturers’ square-foot-heating claims. “What will heat 1,500 square feet in Kentucky would heat half or less square feet in Ontario — in U.S. terms, Wisconsin,” he says. Likewise, the BTU output means little, as it’s easy to create the conditions for maximum BTU output in a controlled factory setting and more difficult to do so in a home with varying wood sources and user ability. Instead of judging a stove’s heating ability by the manufacturers’ square-foot claims or the BTU output, John Akerly, director of the Alliance for Green Heat, says the size of the firebox, which may range from 1 to 4 cubic feet, is a better indicator. He says a 21⁄2-cubic-foot firebox can reasonably heat at 1,000-square-foot space, give or take. And

NEEDS VS. WANTS “[Environmental Protection Agency]compliant stoves are available over a range of prices, low to high,” says Shmorhun, who’s been heating with wood for five years. “Beyond that, the cost of a stove will increase with specialty features, such as design, automated controls, addition of fans, material of construction (e.g., cast iron vs. steel) and finishes.” Many features are cosmetic. A gloss finish is usually costs more than a cast-iron finish. You may be able to choose from a woodstove model with legs (standard price) or with a base that extends to the floor (add-on pricing). A glass door may be a different price than a solid-steel door. One feature many off-the-grid folks want is the ability to cook on the woodstove. Models with specialty cooktops and warming shelves may be pricier than those without. Other features impact how you interact with the woodstove. For example, I chose to add an ash drawer to mine, thinking this would make ash removal easier. It hasn’t, in my experience, though I’m told some models’ ash drawers are better designed.

ARENA CREATIVE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Wallis says no home woodstove will heat beyond 2,000 square feet of space. Considerations in addition to the firebox size include the following. YOUR HOME’S INSULATION. The more wellinsulated it is, the more heat you’ll keep inside. THE PLACEMENT OF THE WOODSTOVE IN YOUR HOME. Heat is better distributed throughout your home by a stove in the center of the space — as opposed to a stove along an outside wall. YOUR AREA’S CLIMATE. Colder areas require more heat — pretty straightforward. YOUR SKILL AND COMFORT LEVEL IN OPERATING A WOODSTOVE. The better you are at building and maintaining a fire, the more efficiently your stove will run. WHETHER YOUR STOVE IS YOUR SOLE HEAT SOURCE OR A SUPPLEMENTAL HEAT SOURCE. If you’re building fires in the evening because you enjoy them, you perhaps don’t need as large of a stove as if you’re heating your whole space. THE WOOD AVAILABLE TO YOU. The wood you burn is a large variable. Green wood — wood that has a high moisture content — and softwoods won’t burn as efficiently and will burn cooler than seasoned wood and hardwoods. “An experienced installer can assist with stove size selection to ensure you receive the most heat and comfort,” says Mark Shmorhun, a technology manager in the Bioenergy Technologies Office of the U.S. Department of Energy.

The Wood Heat Organization doesn’t recommend woodstove fans; Akerly says a good quality fan can be a worthwhile accessory. I use a ceiling fan to move heat around my home. In a larger home, I used box fans, though they were noisy and cumbersome to navigate around. Read reviews and talk with others about their experience with the accessories before you make your choice. There are also accessories that come independent of the woodstove that may be useful, such as the following.

Woodstove Resources Learn more about burning wood and operating a woodstove for the best wood-heating experience. These resources are a good place to start. ALLIANCE FOR GREEN HEAT: information on tax credits and other incentives, plus woodstove purchasing resources. www.forgreenheat.org CHIMNEY SAFETY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA: homeowner resources for chimney venting and installation. www.csia.org/homeowners.html U.S. DEPARTMENT OF ENERGY: the basics of wood and pellet heating. www.energy.gov/energysaver/heat-and-cool U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY: wood-burning resources and safety information. www.epa.gov/ burnwise THE WOOD HEAT ORGANIZATION: everything you ever wanted to know about wood heat safety, woodstoves and firewood. www.woodheat.org September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Wood cook stoves (above right) provide high output capacity to cook and bake at the same time, and gently warm your room.

• humidifier, whether that’s a stove-top steamer or a separate unit. Wood heat zaps moisture from the air. • an ash rake and shovel • a heatproof hand broom and dustpan • a coal hod. This is the tightly lidded metal bucket for disposing of ashes. • heatproof gloves. You’ll wear these after your first burn. • A woodshed. Even a hastily built plywood roof under which you can store wood will help to keep rain and snow from making your wood more wet.

New To You Used woodstoves are out there, and they’re sold for less than the cost of new woodstoves, though they’re not necessarily a bargain. A woodstove can last 20 years or more. New stoves must meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency emissions standards, meaning they’ll burn wood more efficiently and may be easier to use. Saving money in the upfront purchase of a used woodstove can cost more money and effort in the wood you burn and in the general upkeep of the stove over time. Another downside to a used woodstove is that your purchase will not qualify for the 2021 federal incentive program: a 26% tax credit with the purchase of wood and pellet heaters with a 75% or higher EPA high heating value efficiency rating. Your state may also have an incentive program to encourage the use of efficient home-heating systems.

46 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

COURTESY SBI INTERNATIONAL/DROLET

COURTESY UNITED STATES STOVE COMPANY

It's best to bring firewood inside before you burn it. Cold wood can be more difficult to burn in a woodstove because it can take longer for the logs to warm up to combustible temperature.

• a moisture meter. Akerly recommends spending $15 for this tool at a hardware store to gauge the moisture content of your wood, which ideally will be lower than 20% for an efficient burn. • A splitting ax or wood maul. The difference between wood-splitting instruments is worth an article in itself. Even if you purchase already-cut wood, as I do, you need a tool to split the wood to your preferred size and to create kindling.

WHAT’S IT GOING TO COST? Woodstoves typically run $500 to $2,000 for the stove itself, plus the stovepipe and chimney, plus the hearth pad, plus the tools and accessories. This is an investment. “If you spend too little, you get a little,” Wallis says. “If you spend a lot, you may not get a lot more, but probably.” As with all consumer goods, brand names carry a price tag. Yet for home-heating brands, longstanding brands have earned their price points on reputations of safety, durability and efficiency. Woodstoves are 20-year investments, after all. “If you’re putting one in a cabin that you’re only using a couple times a year, you can get a cheaper stove, but if you’re using it every day, you should invest in a good stove,” Akerly says. Maybe a top-of-the-line stove is out of reach but the brand you like has a value-priced stove. Good-quality woodstoves from top manufacturers can be had if you’re willing to sacrifice some of the bells and whistles. The woodstove I purchased last year, for example, was not the least expensive model

direct from the dealer, but they delivered, installed the stove and pipe, and advised on my DIY hearth pad. I am confident in my ability to heat my home with wood safely, and I am glad for all I’ve learned about wood heat along the way. hf

I considered; I would call it middle-of-theroad. I chose the value-priced model from a reputable home-heating brand.

BRINGING A WOODSTOVE HOME

Lisa Munniksma grows herbs, writes, hosts the Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good podcast, and heats her home with wood in Kentucky. Follow her farming experiences on Instagram at @FreelanceFarmerChick. SHUTTERSTOCK.COM: ARIEL CELESTE PHOTOGRAPHY; PIPAS IMAGERY (TOP)

Also regarding the economics of a woodstove purchase, installation is not the place to skimp. I know someone who lost their home to a fire inside the walls and another who had a chimney fire. I won’t mess around with shoddy installation. An improperly installed woodstove, stovepipe or chimney poses a fire danger at multiple points: inside the home from the stove, inside the home from the stovepipe, inside the walls of your home, and in the chimney. Besides physical danger, your homeowners or renters insurance may not cover damage from a fire if the woodstove was improperly installed. An improperly installed stovepipe or chimney can also cause drafting issues, making it hard to start a fire and allowing smoke to enter your home. “Self-installation is really problematic and a huge fire danger,” Akerly says. “Easily 50% of self installs are substandard and potentially dangerous.” A qualified installer will ensure the woodstove is the proper distance from the wall, the hearth pad is adequate, the stovepipe and chimney are the proper height and thickness, and more.

n the end, I ended up purchasing a whole new home-heating system, including new stovepipe and hearth pad. I purchased direct from a hearth dealer. I paid more buying September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

J. KEELER JOHNSON

CHAINSAWS 101 Whether gasoline and electric, these time-saving tools are for more than just cutting firewood. ARTICLE & PHOTOS BY DANIEL JOHNSON

f you live in a rural area with self-sufficient neighbors around you, chances are you’ll often hear the whining drone of chainsaws in the distance, felling trees and processing the timber into firewood. Perhaps you’re interested in purchasing a chainsaw and harvesting your own firewood as well. But chainsaws can do even more than that around your farm. As an almost universal homesteading tool, chainsaws can help with pruning, take down unwanted trees, aid with storm cleanup and even find use in construction projects or farm fencing. (How else should you shorten

a 6-by-6 post when you’re out in the far reaches of your property?) Chainsaws can do all of this in addition to maintaining that all-important woodpile for the chilly winter evenings to come. If you’re interested in getting onboard for all of the chainsaw fun, you’ll need to do a bit of research to determine the exact type of saw you need for your tasks. We’ll take a look at the two major classes of chainsaws (gasoline and electric), as well as some other important factors when it comes to shopping for the chainsaw that will be the workhorse of your property for years to come.

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Use the rightsize chainsaw for the job, with the blade 2 inches longer than the wood it’s cutting.

GAS-POWERED CHAINSAWS

When cutting

This is the traditional type of machine that everyone thinks of when they hear “chainsaw,” and there is a lot to be said about them.

down trees, plan an escape routes because trees can fall in an unexpected directions.

POSITIVES Heavy Duty. Gasoline-powered chainsaws are strong machines, capable of revving up quickly and putting out a lot of power in a hurry. This is partly because two-stroke

engines, which — pound for pound — deliver more power in a lighter package than fourstroke engines, drive them. Two-stroke engines aren’t as fuel-efficient as their larger four-stroke cousins, but it’s a necessary trade off to keep the chainsaw at a manageable weight. Power for All Day. Gasoline chainsaws are a necessity for professional loggers and landscapers, and they’re important for any homesteader who owns a woodlot or processes their own firewood. The reason is that gasoline chainsaws can truly last as long as you can — even all day if needed. As long as you have fuel on hand to keep filling the tank, your saw won’t let you down. Versatile. You’ll be able to find a gasoline chainsaw in just the right size and engine power you need for the job. NEGATIVES More Maintenance. All things being equal, your gasoline chainsaw needs more upkeep then an electric chainsaw. It’s nothing that a confident DIYer can’t handle, but you do need to know how to mix a proper fuel/oil ratio for the two-stroke engine, change the occasional spark plug, and clean the fuel and air filters. Electric chainsaw maintenance is limited to things such as managing chain tension and sharpness. Loud. No question, gas-powered chainsaws make a lot of noise, and you’ll need proper ear protection rated to the decibels that your machine puts out.

50 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

If you need to saw up high, use a pole saw to reach those high branches.

Weight. A serious gasoline chainsaw with the power and length to tackle big projects is a heavy machine that can be fatiguing to use after a while. Expense. Initially, the cost of a gasoline chainsaw is higher than some electric versions.

ELECTRIC CHAINSAWS Electric chainsaws are another viable option. While some of these models are tethered with a power cord, the advent of strong and long-lasting lithium-ion batteries have made cordless electric chainsaws a possibility as well. Electric chainsaws have some very good positive benefits, and few downsides as well. POSITIVES Clean. Electric chainsaws don’t emit exhaust, so they’re a bit more environmentally friendly (at least locally) than two-stroke gas chainsaws. You won’t see or smell chainsaw exhaust in your immediate vicinity while using an electric version. Easy to use. While it’s not particularly difficult to start a properly-maintained gas chainsaw, electric chainsaws are easy to start. There is no cord pulling, no primer bubble nor a choke switch. Just attach a battery (or cord), and flick the switch. Lightweight. A heavy-duty gasoline chainsaw is also heavy to hold and use. Electric chainsaws are generally smaller and lighter, good for beginners or for long periods of easy work.

Good for light work. Speaking of easy work, electric chainsaws are great for pruning, trimming, cutting small logs and doing light construction jobs. Quiet. Well, perhaps quiet is too strong a word — quieter might be more appropriate — but electric chainsaws definitely make less noise than gasoline models. NEGATIVES Limited run time. Lithium-ion batteries aren’t inexpensive, so you likely won’t have more than a couple on hand. And when the

Basic Chain Maintenance Besides maintenance for the engine or batteries, all chainsaws need some general care to keep their actual chains cutting like new. You’ll want to check the chain’s tension frequently, and sharpen or replace the chain when it becomes too dull. If you don’t, the machine’s performance will begin to suffer. Try not to saw into the ground, as this can rapidly dull the blades! You’ll also need to keep the chain lubricated (this oil is in a separate reserve from the fuel). For pruning purposes, you might try a vegetable oil-based chain lubricant that is healthy for living trees. September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Electric chainsaws come in corded and batterypowered (pictured) models and are great for small farmers to carve firewood, lop small branches and cut down dying trees.

batteries are exhausted and you don’t have another one to swap out, you may find yourself waiting on charging times before you can complete the job. Corded versions can eliminate this, but then you have limited mobility. Less power. You’re probably not going to be hiking to the woodlot and felling large trees with an electric chainsaw. And you won’t be processing a winter’s worth of firewood or doing heavy construction work with an electric. There just isn’t the horsepower for those types of jobs.

CHOOSING A CHAINSAW Even after you’ve decided on the type of chainsaw, you still have some shopping decisions to make. Bar length. The bar is the part of the chainsaw that the chain rotates around, and its length dictates (to some extent) what jobs the

Pole Chainsaws Standing 8 feet high on a ladder while trying to balance a chainsaw — and yourself — is a very bad idea. Instead, opt for a pole chainsaw for hard-to-reach branches. Pole chainsaws are also available in electric or gasoline models, and typically feature a fairly short bar (often less than a foot long). They generally don’t have the power of a standard chainsaw, but they can get through branches for easy and safe trimming. Keep both feet on the ground and let the pole saw do the heights! 52 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

chainsaw can do. For major tasks involving felling trees and cutting through large logs, look for a bar length about 16 inches or longer; professional chainsaws may reach well past 20 inches in length. For a smaller, more general-use chainsaw that can still handle the occasional tree or log, perhaps something around 12 to 14 inches will get the job done for you. Anything shorter than that puts you firmly in the pruning/shrub category, and you might seriously look at an electric chainsaw in that length. Your chainsaw’s bar should be at least 2 inches longer than the width of your log or tree, so to safely manage a 10-inch log, it would require at least a 12-inch chainsaw. The chainsaw’s power rating and bar length tend to go hand in hand. Engine power. The power of a gasoline chainsaw is often measured by a “cc” rating, which stands for “cubic centimeters” and refers to the volume of space the piston displaces. Generally, the higher the cc rating, the more power the engine has. For light-duty chainsaws, about 32 cc is adequate. For the average homesteader, a 45-to 55-cc engine may be adequate. Pro models may feature engines as high as 65 cc. Motor power. For electric chainsaws, volts and amps are important factors for comparison and work in tandem to determine the saw’s capabilities; as with a cc rating, “more is better”

PAULETTE JOHNSON

certainly applies here. Another key shopping point for electric chainsaws is the amp hour rating of the battery; this key measurement determines the capacity of the battery and how long it can run between charges. And if you can afford an electric chainsaw with a brushless motor, go for it! The brushless motor may help reduce friction and give your saw an extra edge.

An 18-inch chainsaw is an ideal length for splitting firewood. When the chain spits out dust instead of chips, the cutters need

n the end, the type of chainsaw you select will primarily depend on the type of work you intend to do with it. In fact, there’s a good chance you’ll want more than one! For example, a working setup might include: • a solid, hardworking gas chainsaw in the 45-cc (or higher) range for serious homesteading work, with a bar perhaps 14 to 16 inches long; • a handy electric chainsaw on hand for quick and light jobs; and • a pole saw as something of a supplemental chainsaw to tackle the hard-to-reach places but not as a substitute for the other two. Remember to always stay safe with your machine; follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and wear ear, eye, head, hand and limb protection (your limbs — not the tree’s!).

sharpened.

Understanding how the saw works is key, as is the knowledge of how trees and logs react under different circumstances — a branch under tension, a leaning tree or a log laying over a hump or across a depression. You can’t be too careful, and you’ll enjoy years of productive and safe work on your homestead with your new chainsaw. hf Daniel Johnson is a freelance writer and professional photographer in Wisconsin. He’s the author of several books, including The Beginner’s Guide to Beekeeping: Everything You Need to Know. When not working, he enjoys spending time with his four horses. September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

JOLANDA AALBERS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Oyster Mushrooms These easy-to-find mushrooms are delicious to eat! BY FRANK HYMAN

ysters make a perfect reward for the novice forager: They’re easy to spot and identify, and they taste great, too. You may be able to find cultivated oyster mushrooms at your farmers market and get a good look at them before foraging for wild ones. When a friend wanted me to teach him to forage, we walked across the road from his property into some woods. Less than 50 feet in, oysters greeted us on a big fallen beech tree. We grabbed double handfuls to bring home and spent more time preparing and eating them than we spent foraging. You may not always find oysters so quickly, but they’re very common in the woods. Most edible mushrooms grow on the ground, where they may be small, few in number, obscured by leaves and difficult to find. An oyster mushroom,

Oyster Mushrooms Pleurotus ostreatus Meaning of the Latin name: ear on its side, oyster Also known as: Tree Oyster

54 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

on the other hand, may only be a few inches across, but oysters often grow in clumps the size of a soccer ball. And they’re up off the ground, making them among the easiest mushrooms to find.

FEASTING This one is gourmet, though unfortunately, oyster mushrooms get their name from their appearance, not their taste or texture. The dense, white flesh has a straightforward mushroom flavor, although some people detect a mild licorice scent on the fresh ones. My wife isn’t fond of the texture of mushrooms generally, but I found a cooking method that had her asking for seconds of oyster mushrooms.

Excerpted from How to Forage for Mushrooms without Dying© by Frank Hyman. Used with permission from Storey Publishing.

BARBORABATOKOVA/STOCKADOBE.COM

RANDYBJORKLUND/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Pleurocybella porrigens

Crepidotus applanatus

PRESERVING

LOOK-ALIKES

Oysters can be dried and stored in jars, but their reconstituted texture can sometimes be leathery. More reliable results can be had by cooking and then freezing them. Don’t thaw. Just throw them into a hot skillet.

Some Crepidotus species, such as C. applanatus, look somewhat similar but are smaller, have no stem, appear often as individuals, and have a brown spore print. Angel Wings (Pleurocybella porrigens) are thin and white, but grow on conifers. Neither look-alike should be eaten. hf

FARMING

Frank Hyman was an organic farmer and has a degree in horticulture. He learned his craft from foragers in eight states and six countries and is certified to sell mushrooms in three states. He also writes the Fowl Moods column in Chickens magazine.

Perhaps the easiest mushroom for novices to grow, they can be grown on coffee grounds (the heat has sterilized the substrate!) in a bucket in the kitchen.

Know Before You Eat WHAT, WHERE & WHEN • decomposer on live or dead deciduous trees, standing or fallen • clustered, overlapping rows • white to pale lilac spore print • throughout North America • Oysters grow year-round, even in snowy winters. In warmer weather they grow fast, get buggy, and pass their “harvest-by date” pretty quickly. So best harvested in cooler weather.

FIELD ID CHECKLIST (ALL MUST BE CORRECT) 5 They project out from a deciduous tree trunk or stump. 5 Caps the size of your palm to fully outspread hand, sometimes larger. 5 Each individual mushroom overlaps two mushrooms below it, like shingles on a roof. 5 Gills continue along the stem. 5 Gills are white. 5 Stubby stem doesn’t rise to meet the center of cap as with most gilled mushrooms; it comes off from the side. 5 Smooth cap color ranges from bright white to gray to brown, making them stand out from the darker bark of the deciduous trees they grow on.

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Stick welding is popular with outdoor welders due to it not being affected by wind and portability, which is great for a farm.

PHOTOS COURTESY KINGSOFWELDING.COM

56 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

WELDING on the Farm Welding is a really useful skill for farmers to have that helps with general repair work around the farm. BY JOHN WARD

icking up a cheap welder can save you a lot of money as you can quickly repair gates, fences and machinery without hiring someone to do it or allowing it to get more damaged. The most common welding method used on farms is stick welding because it offers a few key advantages such as cost and portability. However, stick welding isn’t right for everyone, and some farmers prefer to use a wire welding process such as metal inert gas welding or flux-cored arc welding.

STICK WELDING Stick welding (shielded metal arc welding, aka SMAW) is one of the most popular welding processes. It’s a simple procedure that is popular with outdoor welders due to it not being affected by wind. (For a stick welding how-to, visit https://bit.ly/3cAJKBw.) SMAW PROS • Easier set up. It’s simple to set up, and you don’t need to connect a gas cylinder. • Portability. Stick machines can be very light and portable; they’re easy to carry around. • Suitable for windy conditions. Stick doesn’t require shielding gas. Welding processes that use shielding gas won’t get good results in windy conditions because the wind will interfere with the gas. • Cheaper. Stick machines are some of the cheapest welders on the market

SMAW Farm Tips ● Wet or damp electrodes make it more difficult to lay a strong weld. Store electrodes in a cool dry place. ● Don’t hold the rod at 90 degrees to the metal. For best results hold it at approximately 75 degrees. ● Don’t hold the electrode too far away from the metal. Arc length should not be greater than the diameter of the electrode. ● Moving the electrode too slowly can cause too much metal to be deposited and a weaker weld with a convex bead. Similarly, a fast travel speed will create a narrow concave bead with low penetration.

• Rusty metal. Metal doesn’t need to be clean before stick welding so it’s good if your metal has bits of rust or paint that you don’t want to clean off. SMAW CONS • Unable to weld thin metal. Stick welding is very hot and isn’t suitable for welding 18-guage sheet metal. • Clean up time. SMAW doesn’t produce clean welds, and there is a lot of spatter. If you want to reduce clean up time, stick isn’t for you. • Skill level required. Stick is a harder process to learn as you need to learn to strike the arc. • Slow process. Stick welding is slower because rods need to be changed whereas wire welding uses a continuous spool of wire.

METAL INERT GAS WELDING Metal Inert Gas (MIG) welding (also known as GMAW) is a really popular type of welding that’s frequently used for welding low-alloy steels and is well suited for welding auto-body parts and homerepair projects. MIG PROS • Better quality welds. MIG welds produce less spatter so cleanup time is reduced. • Suitable for thinner metals. MIG is versatile and will easily weld 18-gauge steel. • Continuous process. You don’t need to change rods like you do with stick; you use a wire spool so you can weld near continuously. • Easier process: MIG is easier and more reliable. Once you’ve set up the welder, you basically need to hold the gun at a certain distance from the metal and press the trigger. MIG CONS • More expensive set up. MIG welders are typically more expensive, and you need a gas cylinder as well, which can add up. • Not suitable for windy conditions. MIG requires shielding gas to protect the weld from contamination. In windy conditions, the wind can interfere with the gas and cause the weld to be contaminated. September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

FCAW Farm Tips ● MIG uses DC electrode position (DCEP), but FCAW uses DC electrode negative (DCEN). Make sure you have the right settings. ● Flux cored wire is softer than MIG wire and is more likely to get tangled or birdnested. To avoid birdnesting, use knurled V-drive rollers. ● If the tip of the electrode touches the weld pool, it can fuse the hollow wire shut and break a good weld. Keep the tip away from the metal.

Stick welding (above) allows for welding on metal with mill scale or rust. MIG welding (right) is easy to learn, making it a good choice for home and hobby welders.

• Not portable. MIG welders are typically heavier than inverter stick welders and you’ll need to transport a gas cylinder as well. • Need to clean metal before welding. If you have metal that has rust or paint on you’ll need to clean this off before you can use MIG.

FCAW CONS • Produces lots of fumes. Smoke and fumes are released from the flux coating so you’ll need to be in a well-ventilated area, ideally wearing a respirator. • Requires clean up. In addtion to fumes, high amounts of spatter are released. • Not suitable for aluminum • Not suitable for thinner metals. The thicker wire and higher temperature makes FCAW unsuitable for welding thin-gauge steel. • More expensive wire. FCAW has a cheaper start-up cost than MIG; however, wire is more expensive and can add up over time.

opefully these tips should help you choose the right welding process for you and get you even better results on the farm. See www.hobbyfarms.com/welders for more advice on choosing a welder. hf

FLUX-CORED ARC WELDING Flux-cored arc welding (FCAW) and MIG welding can both typically be performed with a standard MIG machine. The key difference: MIG requires use of a gas bottle; FCAW doesn’t.

John Ward is a retired welder from South Carolina and the editor of Kingsofwelding.com.

FCAW PROS • Continuous process. FCAW uses a spool of flux wire so you don’t need to stop and change rods. • Portable. FCAW doesn’t require shielding gas because the wire contains a flux which protects the weld from contamination. You don’t need a gas cylinder. • Can be used in windy conditions. The lack of shielding gas means FCAW can be performed in windy conditions without threat of interference. • Basic operation. Similar to MIG, FCAW is a basic process and even easier than MIG because you don’t need to connect a gas cylinder. • Rusty metal. FCAW is forgiving on metal that has rust or isn’t clean.

● Listen to the sound the arc is making. If you hear a sound like you’re frying bacon, then you’re doing it right. If it hisses, then your voltage might be too high, and if it’s loud and crackly, it might need turning up. ● The stickout is the length the wire sticks out from the MIG gun. Keep this short at around 1⁄4 inch for a more stable arc. ● In MIG welding, you only need to use one hand to hold the gun. Use your second hand to steady and support your hand holding the gun for extra precision and comfort. ● Have the arc positioned at the front of the weld when pushing forward. This will help for better penetration.

58 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

MIG Farm Tips

WORK TO Wear Farm living requires clothes that work as hard as you do.

Use Your Head

Flannel Fits

The REI Buff Original Multifunctional Headwear can be worn a multitude of ways, including as a bandana, hairband, helmet liner, scarf or headband. Made from recycled materials (including single-use plastic bottles), the UPF 50 fabric manages moisture and dries quickly. $20; www.rei.com

This Hawx Harris Stretch Flannel offers moisturewicking technology and a drop-tail hem and adjustable button cuffs. $49.99; www.hawxwork.com

Bottoms Up Grunden’s Storm Seeker Pant is lightweight, waterproof and breathable, with fully taped seams and ankle zippers. $79.99; www. grundens.com

Female Form-Fitting Revivall’s Denim Work Overalls are made specifically for the female form of remnant fabric to reduce environmental impact. $175; www.revivallclothing.com

Get a Grip Froggfingers Full Finger Fishing/Outdoor Gloves are waterand wind-resistant with silicone “frog gripp” palms and fingers for secure grip; index finger and thumb have touchscreen technology. $19.99; www.froggtoggs.com

InJEANious Cody James Core Men’s Shindig Jeans offer COOLMAX all-season technology, designed to keep the wearer cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s cold; the fabric, made with recycled fibers, moves moisture away from the body . $59; www.codyjames.us

Get a Leg Up Dickie’s workwear leggings have knee and rear patches to provide extra integrity and a gusseted crotch for mobility. $69.99; www.dickies.com

Cool Tool Belt The Farmer-Florist Tool Belt (available in right- and left-handed models) has room for heavy-duty pruners, scissors, writing utensils, a hand towel and more. The belt rests on the hips, so that it doesn’t strain the lower back. $227.95; www.floretflowers.com hf compiled by Sarah E. Coleman

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

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continued from page 41

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Circle No. 106 on the Reader Service Card.

60 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

GSHP are ideal for colder climates, too, maintaining a constant operating efficiency down to well below 0 degrees Fahrenheit. The coefficient of performance is a uniform 3.0, while air-source system efficiency declines uniformly to a COP of 1.0 at 0 degrees, the same as an electric strip heater (pure electric resistance heat). A household GSHP can also be the heat source for domestic hot water. The hot water costs next to nothing in the summer because the GSHP extracts heat from the house directly into the water heater. Ground-source systems are so efficient because they transfer heat to and from the ground, which is always cooler than the outside air in the summer and warmer in the winter. The GSHP system equipment inside the house is similar to a conventional air-source heat pump: ductwork plus a fan blowing air across finned cooling coils. However, instead of transferring thermal energy to/from the air at an outside condensing unit, the GSHP exchanges heat with water in a closed-loop buried in the ground. A small, quiet and very efficient pump circulates the water in the loop.

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Ground source heat pumps are dependable, quiet and last 20 to 30 years, and they have a smaller refrigerant charge then conventional air-source heat pumps.

The ground loop is most often small-diameter piping ready-molded in loops, similar to a slinky laid flat. This loop can be buried vertically in a deep trench created by a backhoe (16 inches wide by 8 feet deep) or laid horizontally in a horizontal ditch made by a bulldozer (4 feet deep by 6 feet wide). If the farmhouse has a pond nearby, the ground loop can be put in the water for an even more efficient system. First, water evaporates from the pond’s surface in the summer, cooling the body of water. Then, in the winter, the dark bottom of the pond maximizes solar energy absorption, heating the water. Both processes make the system more efficient, saving on your utility bills. These trenches and the labor involved account for most of the higher cost of a geothermal system versus conventional heat pump systems. A farmer with a tractor and backhoe can dig the ditches and lay the pipe, leaving the GSHP contractor to fill the tubing, seal it and pressure test the installation. The ground loop field can also be created by drilling vertical wells,

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September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

IMAGES COURTESY BILL CLARK

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A ground source heat pump system can provide hot water and HVAC simultaneously.

Circle No. 132 on the Reader Service Card.

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roughly one 125 feet well per ton of cooling. The contractor puts the loop piping in each well then seals the pipe in tight with a bentonite-soil mixture to maximize heat transfer from the piping to/from the ground. You can have any combination of these arrangements for the ground loop to fit the topology of your land: horizontal and vertical slinky, vertical wells and pond/stream/river water. You can tap the ground loop to cool and heat air in the house or the barn, provide domestic hot water, or preheat an industrial-grade water source to clean in the milking barn or other facilities on site.

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62 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Circle No. 108 on the Reader Service Card.

A unique feature of this water loop is that you can have any number of auxiliary systems on the loop to heat and cool all year. For example, a water heater takes heat out of the loop, raising the loop temperature; the AC adds heat as the house cools off. GSHP loops work because of a good thermal connection to the ground. Moist earth is always the ideal and the most efficient. You can even install the ground loop under or integral to the septic field. If your area is prone to drought conditions, it’s best to put the loop as deep as possible — perhaps the vertical well arrangement, if possible. The ground loop has another profound influence on the operation of the HVAC system: It adds thermal mass. When you add thermal mass

Marketplace to a system, it’s like adding weight to a moving vehicle and momentum: When you take your foot off the gas, you keep moving! The heavier the vehicle, the farther you go without the addition of any further energy. Let’s say you have a bare-bones house, 2-by-4 wood framing and fiberglass insulation, nothing special. When you add thermal mass to the interior — furniture, beds, cabinets, carpets, bookshelves, appliances, brick veneer – you improve the operation of the heating and cooling. Why? Because once the interior is at the temperature set point, the air doesn’t heat up in the summer until the entire volume of the house — all the mass inside the building envelope — changes temperature. The same is true in the heating season. The temperature inside a building with a high thermal mass — the extra mass should be inside the insulation — always lags the outside temperature. In the summer, the temperature inside rises much slower than the outside temperature. Moreover, when the sun goes down and gets cooler outside than inside, the direction of heat flow reverses: Most of the outdoor heat never even gets inside the building envelope! The ground loop adds all the thermal mass of the earth inside and around the loop piping. Soil is very heavy — especially moist soil! A vertical well system has so much added thermal mass that the thermal variation is not only daily but seasonal. For example, extracting all that heat from the house in the summer causes the ground loop field temperature to increase many degrees above normal. So when you switch to heating later in the year, you have all that extra heat save up to extract at a much higher efficiency — vice versa in the summer. hf “BTU Bill” Clark is the author of 1001 Energy Tips (Dorrance Publishing), which includes a whole chapter and parts of many others about GSHPs and geothermal energy in general. Learn more at https://whclark.com.

ChickSafe Eco and Advance automatic coop door openers… protect your birds when you can’t µ Brinsea have re-designed the coop door opener from scratch. The NEW ChickSafe Eco and Advance patented designs have only one moving part and no mechanical switches for the ultimate rugged reliability and ease of use. µ A tough two-piece alloy door is also available.

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September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

ADVERTISER DIRECTORY READER SERVICE NO. ADVERTISER

PAGE NUMBER

101 ALLogic Inc./AdorStore .............................60 (832) 444-0192; www.adorstore.com 102 Bass Equipment Co. ................................. 61 (800) 798-0150; www.bassequipment.com 103 Bobcat Co. . .......................................Cover 2 (701) 241-1610; www.bobcat.com 104 Brinsea Products ....................................... 61 (321) 267-7009; www.brinsea.com 105 Brinsea Products .......................................63 (321) 267-7009; www.brinsea.com 106 Caprine Supply .........................................60 (800) 646-7736; www.caprinesupply.com 107 Cargill Animal Nutrition ..............................5 (800) 367-4894; www.nutrenaworld.com/poultry-feeds 108 Circo Innovations .....................................62 (877) 762-7782; www.circoinnovations.com DR Power Equipment ......................................... 9 (888) 121-0783; www.drpowergrader.com DR Power Equipment ....................................... 27 (888) 121-0783; www.drpowergrader.com 135 Draft Horse Journal ...................................62 (319) 352-4046; www.drafthorsejournal.com 109 DS Livestock Equipment ...........................63 (800) 949-9997; www.dslivestock.biz 110 Energy Tips ............................................... 41 www.whclark.com

64 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

For more information about the products or services shown in this issue, circle the corresponding Reader Service Numbers (limit 10) on the Reader Service card in this issue and put it in the mail.

READER SERVICE NO. ADVERTISER

PAGE NUMBER

111 Farnam .............................................Cover 3 (800) 234-2269; www.farnam.com 112 Filaree Garlic Farm ...................................60 (509) 422-6940; www.filareefarm.com 136 Generac Power Systems ........................... 73 (800) 332-5668; www.getpwrcell.com 113 High Caliper Growing Systems ................. 21 (800) 521-8089; www.smartpots.com 114 Ideal Poultry Breeding Farms Inc ..............62 (800) 243-2393; www.idealpoultry.com 116 John Deere Agriculture ............................. 14 (913) 310-8100; www.deere.com 115 John Deere Agriculture ............................. 15 (913) 310-8100; www.deere.com 117 KID Group.................................................. 61 (855) 805-7901; www.bigsprinkler.com 118 Kreamer Feed Inc. .................................... 61 (800) 767-4537; www.kreamerfeed.com 119 Kubota Tractor Corp. ................................... 7 (888) 465-8268; www.kubotausa.com 120 Land Pride ........................................Cover 4 (785) 820-8692; www.landpride.com 121 LS Tractor USA ..........................................25 (252) 984-0700; www.lstractorusa.com 122 McCarthy Group .......................................29 (616) 977 2900; www.ro-brands.com

READER SERVICE NO. ADVERTISER

PAGE NUMBER

123 Mechanical Transplanter Co .....................60 (616) 396-8738; www.mechanicaltransplanter.com 124 Meyer Hatchery ........................................ 37 (888) 568-9755; www.meyerhatchery.com 125 Nopec ........................................................35 (512) 995-0058; www.chickendoors.com 126 Progressive Insurance ................................3 (440) 395-0690; www.progressivecommercial.com 127 Scythe Supply ...........................................60 (207) 853-4750; www.scythesupply.com 128 Solectrac .................................................. 27 (707) 216-1902; www.solectrac.com 129 Stromberg’s Chicks & Gamebirds Unlimited 63 (800) 720-1134; www.strombergschickens.com 130 Sweet PDZ Co. ..........................................39 (800) 367-1534; www.sweetpdz.com 131 Tallman Ladders ........................................63 (541) 386-2733; www.tallmanladders.com 132 TR Metal Crafters .....................................62 (800) 472-2341; www.loyal-roth.com 133 United Country Real Estate ........................17 (800) 999-1020; www.unitedcountry.com 134 Wood-Mizer ................................................11 (866) 577-1446; www.woodmizer.com

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Taking the

Leap

66 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Ron and Betsy Spomer jumped at the chance to live their off-the-grid dreams. ARTICLE BY MARK CHESNUT

•

PHOTOS BY RON SPOMER

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Going off the grid means different things to different people, but at the heart is freedom and selfsustainability, which begins with producing your own food.

f you’re like me, you’ve probably dreamed of someday selling your home in town, moving onto a large tract of land somewhere out in the boonies, growing your own vegetables, hunting for your meat and living happily ever after while enjoying the fruits of your labor of love. Go ahead; admit it! It sounds great, doesn’t it? While many of us dream of such a thing and might even have it on our bucket list for some time down the road, freelance outdoor writer and photographer Ron Spomer and his wife, Betsy, are living that dream in the mountains of Idaho. And they’re loving every bit of it.

LIVING THE DREAM After several years of preparation, the Spomers sold their Boise home in the summer of 2018 and moved onto ranchland that they purchased in a remote area of Idaho. It was something Ron had been dreaming of for many years. “I had been thinking about it more than my wife,” Ron says. “I’ve always lived in the country pretty much. I’m a country boy. I had 68 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

places out in the country — 5 acres, 25 acres, stuff like that. And my wife had a career as a nurse in a hospital in Boise, so we had to stay there for quite a few years. But I said, ‘When you’re done and we retire, I want to get back out in the country. Ron wanted to get back up to northern Idaho, which he really loved. But two of his daughters moved into the Salt Lake area and had five grandkids. He had to decide if he wanted to move farther away from the grandkids or closer. “So, we drew a circle around Salt Lake, X’d out all the parts that were in Utah and found this place about 14 or 15 miles from the Utah border,” he says. “We’re right off of I-15, so we can just zip right down there and see the kids inside of two hours.” While Ron was all-in for the idea from the start, Betsy was still somewhat hesitant as preparations were being made. But that soon changed after she found out how much she loved country living. She always liked gardening, and when they got there, she started planting. Then she thought it would be cool to get some chickens. “She just sort of got

You Can Do It, Too While many people believe getting away from it all and living off the grid is probably beyond their reach, outdoor writer and photographer Ron Spomer and his wife, Betsy, don’t think that’s true. The key, Ron says, is prioritizing and planning. That’s advice he is happy to share with others. “First is, don’t give up on the idea because it’s definitely doable,” he says. “Second, start budgeting for it and saving for it. Don’t just dream about it. Make it happen. And the way to do that is to have some discipline with your buying. ... Give up the super foolish things you really don’t need, and keep that dream in mind: ‘We are going to make this happen.’” Quickly escalating land prices in some areas can make the process more difficult. So if you can pull the trigger on a move sooner rather than later, you’ll probably be doing yourself a favor. “If you can, get a place,” Ron says. “Even if you can’t move onto it right away, just get that property. Because land prices can escalate so quickly and so dramatically that you end up going, ‘Wow, we thought we had enough money and in 10 years we were going to buy, but the price of the place has doubled.’ So if you can, get the property now. You can always build on it later.” All in all, Ron and Betsy love their backcountry way of life — especially sharing it with their kids and grandkids, who love visiting Grandma and Grandpa at the ranch. It’s a lifestyle with lots of hard work, but it’s work that is enjoyable and also helps keep them healthy. “We’re going to just keep plugging away here,” Ron says when asked what comes next. “We’re starting to talk about how long can we last and stay on the place before they wheel us off to a home somewhere. “Actually, I think it’s part of your healthcare, the fact that you’re out in the open air, and that you’re physical and working all day, not just sitting around. Plus, it’s the enthusiasm that one has for this lifestyle that I think keeps you young and keeps you going. You just want to be out there doing things, so it’s not a big hassle. It’s not like you have to plan a trip, load up the RV and head out for a two-day drive to get somewhere to do something like this. We can just walk out the door anytime we want. So we’re constantly being active outdoors. And I think we have things organized well enough that we can stay out here for a good, long time.”

involved and fell in love with it,” Ron says. “I think she likes it more than I do now.” The ranch is located in a fairly dry area of the state in the foothills of a mountain range that takes portions of the property up to several thousand feet elevation. It already had a 20-year-old house on it, although it was larger than what the couple needed. Still, the opportunity was hard to pass up. “The place was spring-fed, and it was all pretty primitive,” Ron says. “It had a nice house on it — too much house for us — but we were like, ‘Well, the house is there. The land is there.’ It’s got a couple of streams running through it. There are some draws: It’s pretty hilly and pretty rough. You get the mountain air coming down to cool things, even though it gets hot and dry in the day. It’s not a bad option for the evening. So, we don’t have air conditioning. We save some money on electricity there.”

At first, Betsy Spomer (above) was a little reluctant to move from the comforts of a major city to living remotely in the mountains of Idaho, but she’s learned to embrace and love it.

FAR OFF THE GRID “Off the grid” means different things to different people. For the Spomers, it means that they’re pretty darned self-sufficient when it September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Ron Spomer digs out noxious white bryony vines on his Idaho property. Living off the grid requires a lot of hard work, but it pays off in multiple ways, including quality of life.

comes to providing their own utilities and the like. “Of course, it’s all off the grid, so we have to make all our own energy,” Ron says. They mainly use solar. The place had a wind turbine on it, but that soon went belly up. After some research, Ron realized that

Winter off-the-grid offers a special set of challenges. 70 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

wind wasn’t really the way to go. “There’s just too much maintenance for what you get back,” he says. “And, of course, you’re at the whims of the wind. “You have to take it down and maintain the turbine and all, then put it back up again. And that requires a vehicle, a bunch of pulleys and things, and is a bit of a job. And then the darned thing goes out. It burned out inside of two years, and the blades were cracking prior to that, so that would have been another replacement. After two years of that, we realized it just wasn’t worth replacing. And it was cheaper to go with more solar.” Ron admits plenty of people regularly ask him what they do for electricity on cloudy days. The key, he says, is having enough solar capability to store plenty of electricity if the need should come along. “You’re picking up some energy even on the cloudy days with the solar panels,” he says. “So we put in new solar panels to augment what was already here until we’ve got to the point now with our battery storage, we can last for about three-and-a-half to four days with no power coming in, just off what we’ve saved. And in a sunny climate like this, that generally

works out. We’ve got an emergency backup house generator that runs on propane, and last year, it only started two times.” In the winter, they heat the home with a wood-burning fireplace. And they’re fortunate enough to have all the wood they need without having to cut down any trees on their property. “We’ve got four good-sized maple woodlots,” he said. “Out here in Idaho, we’ve got maple trees, but they’re called mountain maples. There’s a fairly small range in which they are native, but we’re right in the heart of it. So I’m burning old maple logs that have been dead and lying on the ground here for years and years. They just last forever in this dry environment.” Despite making their own heat and cooling, the Spomers do have one unexpected modern convenience. “This place came with fiber optics,” Ron says. “We’ve got better internet service than we’ve ever had in the city. It was some kind of federal project to bring fiber optics to a rural community, and this one was a demonstration community. We had no idea. When they were looking at the place, they thought they were going to have to get a satellite and have slow service. The real estate

agent, however, informed them about the fiber optics going all the way up to the house. That really helped seal the deal.

LIVING THE LIFESTYLE

The Spomers make all their own energy, via solar panels.

Despite what some might assume, there’s not a typical day in the life of the Spomers on their Idaho ranch. Because Ron still writes for a living, things vary from day to day. “There aren’t any normal days,” he says. “Anything could happen. I could wake up at 5 a.m. and have four deadlines, and spend all my day sitting in an office with the great outdoors just a pane of glass away. Or I could get up and not have deadlines, but I actually do have a deadline: I need to get something planted in the garden or something cultivated or some food plots put in. Going out for firewood takes us quite a bit of time every year to get four cords of firewood piled up.” Despite all the work it takes to keep a place like theirs up and running well, Ron and Betsy haven’t ever regretted their decision to move from town out into the boonies. There have, however, been some challenges that made things difficult — especially at first. “We really haven’t [second guessed], which is kind of surprising,” Ron says. September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

A cistern stores pumped well water augmented by a spring flow to keep the Spomers clean and hydrated. Betsy Spomer (right), a former nurse, lends some bedside manners to a fence line in need of repair on her Idaho off-thegrid property.

“I guess [we were worried] a little the first few months we were in here, when all the old stuff ... started going on the fritz. The solar quit working, the turbine broke, then the emergency generator threw a rod. Even the fireplace started leaking smoke into the ceiling. It turned out to be a small problem, and I was planning to put an insert for efficiency into it anyway. “But we got all that fixed. And we had more than enough work getting things repaired and up to snuff. So we’re not having any concerns with boredom around here!” The upside to the couple’s way of life is far greater than any downsides Ron could think of. In fact, it’s easy for him to put into words his favorite part of living and working on the ranch. “It’s got to be that satisfaction of owning your land and knowing that you’re not beholden to anyone else other than the taxes,” he says. “I think most people can instinctively understand that. After all, this country was formed by people who wanted to have their own land and not be at the beck and call of the king or the lord. “It’s an old story, but I think it’s a part of human nature. You want to control your destiny and have your own territory, as small or as big as it is. It’s just that incredible feeling of security that you have. Add land where you can grow some crops, raise some livestock, go hunting and improve the habitat for wildlife and all those fun things that we enjoy. But at the same time, you know that you are banking for your survival and your family’s. If the stuff hits the fan, we’re in pretty darned good shape. And that’s a wonderfully secure feeling.”

on’s second favorite thing about ranch life is what brings many to move out of the city and into more of a country lifestyle, albeit not on quite as grand a scale as the Spomers. “[It’s] just being close to nature,” he says. “Anyone who enjoys the country, hunting, the outdoors, birding and all the things that we do, when you’ve got a place like this, you step out the door in the morning and the birds are singing and coming to the feeders, and the deer are walking across the fields. And, your dog can go out and do whatever she wants without your neighbor complaining about your dog doing her business on their lawn. It’s just the incredible freedom you get with something like this.” hf

Mark Chesnut is the owner/editorial director at Red Setter Communications. An avid hunter, he lives in Jenks, Oklahoma, a suburb of Tulsa. 72 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

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Circle No. 136 on the Reader Service Card.

breeds you need Hundreds of varieties of livestock are suitable to raise on a hobby farm! Here are a couple of chickens. Australian Shepherds

Harlequin Sheep Kathleen Sterling, owner of Black Sheep Farm East in Virginia, developed Harlequin Sheep about 40 years ago. A variety of breeds were used to develop the Harlequin including Karakul, Tunis, Corriedale, Lincoln, Border Leicester, Romney, Montadale and Southdown. Breeders continue to improve on the size and look in accordance with Sterling’s vision. Farms across the United States and Canada are producing health, hardy lambs yearly toward the achievement of 500 American Purebred Harlequin sheep. Once the registry reaches that number, the breed will be closed to outcrossing with registered Babydoll Southdown Sheep, and it’ll continue improving the breed through the current seven generations. As of 2020, there were only 16 American Purebred sheep in the registry representing a tremendous growth opportunity for breeders to get in early as Harlequins take a prominent role in the miniature sheep world. EVE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the American West as a generalpurpose ranch and farm dog. 74 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

COURTESY SIXWAGSOVERTEXAS.COM

The Australian Shepherd excels at controlling large and/or slow-moving flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, and is highly regarded for its superior ability to effectively manage livestock in tightly confined spaces. It’s powerful and intense by nature, easily learning the appropriate force and distance needed for the livestock being worked. Utilizing a loose-eyed approach to stock, a working Australian Shepherd will often display wear, grip and/or an authoritative bark, as well as eye when necessary, to handle its stock. The Australian Shepherd Club of America was established as the parent club for the breed in 1957 and incorporated as a nonprofit corporation. Increasing interest in competition led to the development of performance programs. Today, these programs provide certification and titles in agility, conformation, obedience, rally, stock dog and tracking, as well as junior handling. For more information, visit the ASCA website: www.asca.org.

Harlequin Sheep are said to be fun-loving and very inquisitive; they almost act likes goats!

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GALLERY

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

COURTESY EUREKA! MOHAIR FARM

The main product of Angora goats is their mohair fiber.

Considered a miniature sheep with shoulder heights at or less than 23 inches, Harley weights range from 80 to 120 pounds for ewes and rams weighing 90 to 150 at maturity. Their compact size, lower weights and lack of horns (naturally polled) make them easy handling. Known for its fine, medium-staple length wool, Harlequin fiber is similar Babydoll Southdown fiber. Babydoll/Harlequin crosses, representing the first outcrossing to increase bloodlines often are born with a rich, dark, brown fleece, sometimes with a white spot on the head or chest. When a tricolor fleece is processed, the roving is a beautiful gray. The fleece of most mature Harlequins can be separated into off white, brown, gray and tan to produce roving in those colors individually. Despite being relatively rare, Harlequins are affordable. If you are considering them to obtain or maintain an agricultural exemption on your land or purchasing for your kids or grandkids as a 4-H or FFA project, you’ll find they are truly worthy, due to their versatility. To learn more, visit the Harlequin Sheep Society website: www. harlequinsheepsociety.com.

Colored Angora Goats When you think of mohair, your thoughts probably turn to a scratchy, heather-pink sweater your mom or grandma wore in the 1960s — the same sweater that left a trail of fuzz

Get more great breed advice and tips at

HOBBYFARMS.COM or scan this QR code: 76 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

clinging to everything it touched! Today, though, anyone who raises Angora Goats will meet that vintage reflection with staunch debate. In the 1980s and 1990s, producers fine-tuned the Angora breed to one that grows soft, luxurious white mohair for the goat’s entire lifetime, leaving behind the itchy stigma of yesteryear. Simultaneously, a movement in the Pacific Northwest took off in the niche hand-spinner community. Avid fiber artists sought to raise a backyard animal that would produce skin-touch soft fiber in a spectrum of natural colors for use in hand-spun yarns and without a drop of chemical dye. After years of thoughtful, selective breeding and relentless pursuits to meld the quality of white Angoras, the Colored Angora Goat was developed. Today, Colored Angora Goats bring higher prices per pound for their magnificent red, brown, apricot, black, silver, and even multicolored and patterned mohair fleeces. Still exclusively raised on hobby farms across North America, Colored Angora Goats are treasured by those who keep them, whether for fiber, show, 4-H and FFA projects or brush clearance or even just as pets. Angora Goats are considered the most efficient fiber producers in the world. Mohair grows 1 inch per month, and fleeces average between 5 to 10 pounds each, with two shearings per year (unlike sheep, which are shorn once). Quiet, docile and easy-going, Angoras are generally easy to keep. As seasonal fall breeders, they don’t possess the strong odors often associated with other goats. Angora Goats enjoy the company of others, and keeping at least two is always the best plan. Castrated bucks (wethers) produce the softest mohair for a lifetime. Angora Goats are typically respectful of their surroundings. A woven wire fence of at least 48 inches in height is standard. Treacherous terrain full of thorny plants poses no challenge. Rocks and boulders are seen as opportunities to play and reach for tree limbs. A simple lean-to roof on higher ground often fulfills a shelter, offering a place to get out from the weather. Solid walls to block cold winds, especially after shearing, will be essential. Unlike sheep, goats thrive on brush and low-lying trees. Angoras were first introduced to the Southwest in the 1800s because of the abundance of brushlike forage that other livestock wouldn’t touch. Angora Goats are clever browsers and not terribly picky. Find out more at the Colored Angora Goat Breeders Association website: www.cagba.org. hf —Allen Mesick, Eureka! Mohair Farm

Why Katahdins? • Natural parasite resistance • Medium frame and mild tasting

Save

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• Strong maternal traits • Adaptable to any climate • No wool, no shearing

SACRED

COW

Michigan Theatre, Jackson, MI

katahdins.org A Breed Whose Time Has Come Katahdin Hair Sheep International Annual EXPO and SALE Online Membership and Breeder Directories Online Registration

PO Box 739 Fowlerville, MI 48836

717-335-8280 info@katahdins.org

Author Diana Rodgers, RD Real Food Dietitian, Sustainability Advocate

Diana’s presentation and movie are FREE. She is nationally known and recognized. The topics will be on meat based nutrition, particularly beef and sustainable agriculture. She addresses and debunks many myths about beef.

www.sacredcow.info/helpful-resources Held in conjunction with

MWHCA Fall Color Sale • Three Rivers, MI For more info: leawhitefarms@gmail.com www.midwesthighlands.org • (906) 370-4210

AHCA Gathering • Kalamazoo, MI To register: info@highlandcattleusa.org www.highlandcattleusa.org • (303) 659-2399

2008

Eureka! #392 CAGBA National Best in Show Estes Park, Colorado

Eureka! #539

2012 2013

CAGBA National Best in Show Sacramento, California

Eureka! Tormund #609 ACAGR National Best in Show Allegan, Michigan

Eureka! The Seer #666

2014

CAGBA National Best in Show Iowa State Fair Des Moines, Iowa

Eureka! The Seer #666

2016 NATURAL LUXURY

CAGBA National Best in Show Estes Park, Colorado

Eureka! The Pearl #737

EUREKA! MOHAIR FARM

2017

CAGBA National Best in Show Eugene, Oregon

Eureka! Myron #769

2018

CAGBA National Best in Show Rhinebeck, New York

Eureka! Ben Carson #900

2019

ACAGR National Champion Buck Sacramento, California

Tollhouse, California

GALLERY

September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

Livestock Directory ALPACAS PRODUCING SIMPLY THE FINEST PRODUCTS from jewelry and coozies to cat toys and clothing! 970-243-4201; www.casalavandaalpacas.com ALPACAS — Fiber, yarn, finished alpaca garments. Pet/breeding stock available. Maureen Macedo, Turlock, CA; 209-648-2384; www.macedosminiacres.com HUACAYA ALPACAS for sale — Breeding/ show-quality, fiber/pet-quality available. Alpaca Rentals. Alpaca fiber, roving, yarn, finished products. Deb Galway, Vacaville, CA; 707-290-7915; deb@menagerie hillranch.com; www.menageriehillranch.com

MINIATURE TEXAS LONGHORNS FOR SALE in Texas. Great for pet or show. Red Circle Ranch. 941-374-1856; www.mini-texaslonghorns.com

SWINE

CEDAR RIDGE FARM

POULTRY

Registered Tamworth Swine James R. LoStracco, Sr. PO Box 635456 Nacogdoches, TX 75963

• Hatching 30 breeds of ducks and geese • Minimum order 2 ducklings/goslings

936-462-3490 james@vipertx.com

• Informative website • Free catalog

Northwest Ohio Pasture Raised Large Black

CATTLE

Heartland Highland Cattle Association Registry 976 State Hwy 64, Tunas, MO 65764

567-674-2542 • www.TriangleKRanch.com

417-345-0575 • 417-733-3201 heartlandhighlandcattle@gmail.com www.heartlandhighlandcattleassociation.org Email or Phone for a FREE informational packet on Highland Cattle

AMERICAN HIGHLAND CATTLE ASSOCIATION (AHCA): Stewards of the ONLY worldwide recognized Highland Cattle registry backed by 70+ years of pedigreed cattle with traceable lineage. Come join us today to be part of this fantastic heritage breed whether you raise registered cattle, grade cattle and/ or focus on marketing beef! AHCA - Brighton, CO (303) 659-2399 info@highlandcattleusa.org www. highlandcattleusa.org (See Display Advertisement in Gallery of Breeds). CROSSFIRE ENTERPRISES — Full-blood, registered Aberdeen Angus. Pasture-raised bulls, heifers, cows. Western PA. Find your next herd addition here. cfelowline@gmail.com

DOGS OLDE ENGLISH POCKET BEAGLE PUPS – Cute, Small, smart, clean. Litter-box trained. $2k each. 908-482-0972; suespig@gmail.com; www.rosiespetites.net PUPPIES AVAILABLE NOW – Breeding purebred Turkish Kangal livestock guardians. Rayburne Ridge Farm. 864-230-5968; emjsto@aol.com; Facebook: Rayburne Ridge Farm

DONKEYS ASSN9 RANCH – Shawnee, Oklahoma. Great conformation, movement and trainability, 12 times National Year-End High Point Champions. Pretty performance, PERFECTION. www.AssN9Ranch.Com WEE ASS HAVEN – ADMS Registered Mediterranean Miniature Donkeys. We breed championship blood lines for show and performance with healthy conformation, brains, companionship and kid safe. Southern California Phone: 951-440-3082 www.WeeAssHaven.com

GOATS AMBER WAVES PYGMY GOATS — Registered, dehorned and microchipped, available year-round. We specialize in hand-raised bottle babies for the ultimate pet experience and breeding stock — export specialist since 1982. Lifetime support, BBB A+ rating, 5-star rated breeder, established in 1982. https://amberwavespygmygoats.com and https://pygmygoat.farm EUREKA! MOHAIR FARM – Awarded Colored Angora Goats located in Tollhouse, CA. Eurekamohair@gmail. com; www.mohair.farm (See Display advertisement in Gallery of Breeds)

MINIATURE CATTLE MEASEL’S MINIATURE CATTLE — Variety of breeds. Start your herd with us. Freezer-beef calves available. Greencastle, IN; Call 765-376-4547; ms_measel@yahoo.com

78 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Rancho Dos Fuentes AMBER WAVES SILKIES specializes in DNA Sexed Female Bearded Bantam Silkies. Available yearround, lifetime support, Mareks Vaccinated, shipping OK, weather permitting. BBB A+ rated, 5-star rated breeder. Sales Page: https://buysilkiechicks.com; text 951-736-1076.

Gloucestershire old Spots Pigs Currently breeding British-American lines in Northern California Bob and Loretta Heath, Aromas, CA

408-781-0444 | oldspothogs@gmail.com

CACKLE HATCHERY — More than 200 varieties of poultry! Order online at www.cacklehatchery.com or call 417-532-4581. (See Display Advertisement in Gallery of Breeds)

IDAHO PASTURE PIG REGISTRY — Dedicated to the growth, education and preservation of registered Idaho Pasture Pigs. www.idahopasturepigregistry.com

CHICKEN SCRATCH POULTRY — Black/Blue Copper Marans; Blue Laced Red Wyandotte; Blue/Black Ameraucana; Welsummer; Olive Egger; Coronation Sussex; Light Sussex; Lavender, Chocolate and Jubilee Orpington; rumpless Araucana. Larry and Angela McEwen, 14025 CR 975 E, McLeansboro, IL 62859; 618643-5602; www.chickenscratchpoultry.com

RED WATTLE HOGS — Critically rare, gentle, great mothers, easy keepers, ﬂavorful pork, perfect hobby-farm hogs. 270-565-3815; redwattles@ hotmail.com; www.redwattleproject.org

FREEDOM RANGER HATCHERY, INC. — Hatching year-round. Strong, robust and healthy Freedom Ranger broilers. 717-336-4878; www.freedomrangerhatchery.com DUCKLINGS AND GOSLINGS — Many domestic rare breeds: Calls, Runners, Magpies, Pekins, Africans, Saxony, Appleyards. Free brochure. 218-222-3556; www.johnsonswaterfowl.com

MYERS POULTRY FARM — Free catalog. Broiler meat chicks: fast-/slower-growing, layer chicks, ducklings, goslings, turkeys, guineas. 966 Ragers Hill Road, South Fork, PA 15956; 814-539-7026; www.myerspoultry.com

TAMWORTH SWINE ASSOCIATION — Registered purebred heritage breed. Remarkable mothers, grazers, terriﬁc taste, fun to raise. Come join us! 574-222-0073; www.tamworthswine.com WHITE BISON FARM — Breeders of Idaho Pasture Pigs, Kunekune Pigs, American Bison and Gypsy Vanner Horses. Dave & Jodi Cronauer, Laona, WI 54541, 715-674-2287, info@whitebisonfarm.com, www.whitebisonfarm.com

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MEALWORMS BY THE POUND oﬀers the lowest prices on dried mealworms, free shipping to the contintental U.S. www.mealwormsbythepound.com TOWNLINE POULTRY FARM — Four generations of quality poultry. 888-685-0040; oﬃce@townline hatchery.com; www.townlinehatchery.com (See Display Advertisement in Gallery of Breeds)

SHEEP HARLEQUIN MINIS — the perfect sheep for all ages. Compact size and weight, hornless, plain or spotted with fun personalities that will steal your heart! Learn more at HarlequinSheepSociety.com KATAHDIN HAIR SHEEP INTERNATIONAL — Hardy, Low-maintenance, superior lamb crops, meat-quality, parasite-resistant, no shearing. 717-335-8280; info@katahdins.org; www.katahdins.org (See Display advertisement in Gallery of Breeds) ROCKSTAIR FARM — Dual-registered Babydoll Southdown Sheep (OE & NA). SoCal Breeder. RockstairFarm.com; Shepherd@RockstairFarm.com

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PEST CONROL GOT POCKET GOPHER PROBLEMS? 6 diﬀerent style machines to ﬁt your needs. We also sell gopher bait in 1-, 4- & 45-pound containers. 800-845-1385 or www.elstonmfg.com for more information.

SCHOOLS & INSTRUCTION Custom three-night mentorship: Get 1-on-1 guidance for starting or planning hobby livestock farming. Covered areas of learning: choosing and raising the right livestock, ﬁnancial investments and best husbandry practices. 434-735-0527; www.cornerstonefarm.net/mentorship.html

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September/October 2021 • HOBBY FARMS

SAY

! e s e Che

KEEP ’EM COMING Email us the very best digital images of your small-farm friends to hobbyfarms@hobbyfarms.com, with “Say Cheese!” in the subject line. Include your name and address in the body of the email. We hope to see your photos in an upcoming issue and on our Instagram account (@hobbyfarmsmag)! hf

Diane Spisak Wellsville, Kansas

Downing Hill Farm Colt Neck, New Jersey

Melissa Grapp Winterset, Iowa 80 HOBBY FARMS • HobbyFarms.com

Hannah Wenzel Carrier Mills, Illinois

Melissa Olger Nacogdoches, Texas

Elijah D’Amore Clover, South Carolina

Huumala Family Battle Ground, Washington

The taste rats and house mice just die for! ® Rodents in your barn aren’t up to anything good. Put an end to feed contamination and waste, damage to equipment and electrical wiring, and risk of serious disease. It’s time to take action with Just One Bite®* II rodent bait made especially for agricultural use to effectively control rodents and help prevent reinfestation.

Reclaim your barn! Visit justonebitebrand.com to find a retail location near you. *Norway rats, roof rats and house mice may consume a lethal dose in a single night’s feeding with first dead rats and mice appearing four or five days after feeding begins. ©2020 Farnam Companies, Inc. Farnam with design, Just One Bite and The taste rats and house mice just die for! are registered trademarks of Farnam Companies, Inc. 300530123 Circle No. 111 on the Reader Service Card.

Seedbed Preparation Land Pride’s full line of Rotary Tillers are at home on hobby farms or in a landscaping operation. Available in forward or reverse operation and either gear or chain drive, these tillers are capable of 7" tilling depth. The reverse-rotation models drop large clods on the bottom of the bed and deposit fines on top, creating a uniform seed bed. Visit landpride.com for full specs or to locate a dealer. We also offer a full line of skid steer attachments.

landpride.com Circle No. 120 on the Reader Service Card.

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Articles inside

Warm Up the Woodstove

Chainsaws 101

Oyster Mushrooms

Home Chicken Processing