SPIED & TRIED >> 10 MUST-SEE PLANES & PRODUCTS
RC PILOT INTEL & INSPIRATION
3D THRILLS
Secrets to all-out aerobatics
A SALUTE TO MILITARY AVIATION
Fighters, bombers, and more! October 2021
ModelAirplaneNews.com
Paint Like a Pro
Giant-Scale Tech
Pilot-friendly Flier
Tips for a perfect finish
Installing canister mufflers
Easy building project
CONTENTS Volume 150 Number 10 October 2021
PAGE 16
A 40%-scale Piper L-4 Grasshopper takes a break between flights at the Warbirds over Delaware event.
FEATURES
16
Warbirds Over Delaware
22
Intro to 3D Flying
39
Cover and Paint Fabric-Covered Airplanes
50
Planes Worth Modeling: Pitts Special S-2A
52
29 years of military aviation fun By the Model Airplane News crew
Fly like the pros in half the time! by David Scott
Secrets to a perfect cloth finish By Gerry Yarrish
Classic 2-place competition biplane By the Model Airplane News crew
Construction: The Pairadox A twin free-flight design with a nod to the P-38 Lightning By Pat Tritle
FLIGHT REPORT
30
MR AeroDesign Pilatus Porter PC-6 A beautiful scale classic with great STOL performance By John Dueck
ON THE FLIGHTLINE
10 12 13 14
New Releases Product Review: Flying Tiger RC Tiger Transmitter Tray Product Review: GT Power C6D and X2 Battery Chargers MAN Approved: Oasser PS1 Mini Air Inflator and Du-Bro Products Tubing Benders
DEPARTMENTS
04 06 08 36 60 66
Flight Plan Hobby Hacks Pilot Projects Aerobatics Made Easy Let’s Talk Giant Scale Hangar Talk
ON THE COVER For anyone interested in flying 3D maneuvers, a giant-scale aerobat like this Yak 54 with a good power-to-weight ratio is the way to go. Inset: Adam Lilley’s C-47 cargo plane roars down the runway at the Warbirds Over Delaware event. (Photo by Montana Masker)
MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS (USPS 533-470; ISSN 0026-7295) is published monthly by Air Age, Inc., 11 Grumman Hill, Suite 5, Wilton CT 06897 USA. Copyright 2019, all rights reserved. Periodicals postage paid at Wilton, CT, and additional PDLOLQJ Rȣ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rumman Hill, Suite 5, Wilton CT 06897 USA; 203-529-4604; DGYHUWLVLQJ#DLUDJH FRP CHANGE OF ADDRESS: 7R HQVXUH WKDW \RX GRQŜW PLVV DQ\ LVVXHV VHQG \RXU QHZ DGGUHVV WR 0RGHO $LUSODQH 1HZV 3 2 %R[ :LOWRQ &7 86$ VL[ ZHHNV EHIRUH \RX PRYH 3OHDVH LQFOXGH WKH DGGUHVV ODEHO IURP D UHFHQW LVVXH RU SULQW WKH LQIRUPDWLRQ H[DFWO\ DV VKRZQ RQ WKH ODEHO )RU IDVWHU VHUYLFH HPDLO VHUYLFH#DLUDJH FRP POSTMASTER: 6HQG )RUP WR 0RGHO $LUSODQH 1HZV 3 2 %R[ :LOWRQ &7 86$
FLIGHT
PLAN BY GERRY YARRISH | PHOTO BY MONTANA MASKER
EDITORIAL
Executive Editor Debra Cleghorn | debrac@airage.com Senior Technical Editor Gerry Yarrish | gerryy@airage.com Associate Editor Matt Boyd | mattb@airage.com CONTRIBUTORS
Martin Alvarez, P.J. Ash, Sal Calvagna, Sean Curry, Mike Chilson, Budd Davisson, Michael Fetyko, John Glezellis, Peter Goldsmith, Andrew Griffith, David Hart, Carl Layden, Clarence Lee, Mark Rittinger, Klaus Ronge, Hugh Ryder, David Scott, Patrick Sherman, Ralph Squillace, Jerry Smith, Pat Tritle, Rich Uravitch, Chris Wolfe, Nick Ziroli Sr. PRODUCTION
Production Director David Pandy DESIGN
Valpro Media Services
BRING ON THE WARBIRDS
Arguably, warbirds (of various eras) are the most popular RC aircraft flying today. They’re exciting and pay homage to aviation history. And one of the original all-warbird events is the Warbird Over Delaware Fly-In hosted by the Delaware R/C club. Enjoying three decades of action-packed patrols and dogfights, the 29th annual extravaganza was again hosted at the impressive venue at Lums Pond State Park in Bear, Delaware. With more than 100 registered pilots, this year was a welcome get-together after a long dry spell due to the national quarantine. From vintage WW I biplanes, classic WW II fighters and turbine jets, this military themed event always has something for everyone.
AEROBATIC MOVES
Also in this issue we have a couple articles for the aerobatic fans. David Scott offers a well-illustrated presentation for pilots interested in 3D! His “Intro to 3D” has plenty of tips and advice for nailing these advanced aerobatics maneuvers. And for the newer pilots, we have an introduction to basic aerobatics with “Aerobatics Made Easy.” This primer goes over all the details for mastering the perfect loop. For most RC pilots, the loop is the first step to more advanced maneuvers. It is the fundamental move.
DIGITAL MEDIA
Web Producer Holly Hansen VIDEO/PHOTOGRAPHY
Photographer Peter Hall Videographer Adam Lebenstein ADVERTISING
Integrated Account Executives Ben Halladay | 203.482.8093 | benh@airage.com Brian Vargas | 203.939.9901 | brianv@airage.com CONSUMER MARKETING/PRODUCTION
Mast Circulation Group, Inc. MARKETING & EVENTS
Marketing Assistant Erica Driver Event Manager Emil DeFrancesco PUBLISHING
Group Publishers Louis V. DeFrancesco Jr. Yvonne M. DeFrancesco
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FROM THE WORKBENCH
Have you ever wanted to build a twin? Want something easy to fly? Well, our buddy Pat Tritle came up with something that hits both targets. The Pairadox is a free-flight, stick-and-tissue, rubber-powered design that gets its inspiration from the Lockheed P-38 Lightning. With simplified construction, this rubber powered twin is destined to become a very popular design for both sport and sport scale modelers. You can purchase the full-size plans at AirAgeStore.com. If you’re looking for an unusual (STOL) short-takeoff-and-landing airplane to build, our contributor John Dueck gives a close-up “field and bench” look at a new laser-cut kit from MR Aerodesign. The Pilatus Porter PC-6 has a 10-foot span and very effective flaps, so you can have pilot friendly performance with this DLE 55cc gas-engine-powered Martin Rousseau design. And if you want some giant scale workshop tips, we also have John Glezellis’ “Let’s Talk Giant Scale” column showing the finer details of making modifications to your aerobat so you can install canister mufflers. From providing access to the muffler tunnel to installing the canisters so they have adequate support while isolating them from vibration, John shows it all with his measure twice and cut once techniques. All this and more make our October issue a keeper that you’ll refer to often. Enjoy! 4 ModelAirplaneNews.com
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HOBBY
HACKS
HELPFUL READER HINTS
SCREW HOLDER Often you have to install screws within a fuselage and it can be hard to get your hands in the space to start the screws in the hole. I use a short length of fuel tubing slipped over the tip of my screwdriver as a screw holder. This works especially well for installing servo screws in a deep scale fuselage. Michael Thompson, Flemington, New Jersey
USE AND TOSS For years, I used to use small mixing cups to make batches of 2-part epoxy. A better way I have found is to use glossy advertising cards as a mixing pad. Squirt equal amounts of Part A and Part B and then use a popsicle stick or a scrap balsa stick and mix the epoxy together. When you’re done applying the adhesive, simply toss the whole mess in the trash can. Nothing to clean up. Bruce Roache, New London, Connecticut
HORN PLACEMENT Accurately placing the control horn can be a difficult task when installing a control system. It must be installed square to the hinge line and with the attachment holes aligned with the hinge line as well. A great way to do this is to stick the horn in place with a piece of double-sided carpet tape. Carefully place the horn, press it down and then you can drill the screw holes though the horn’s base plate. Screw the horn into place and cut away the excess tape for a clean installation. George Gonzalez, Los Angeles, California
ISOLATED TAILWHEEL Most of the time, the upper tiller section of a tailwheel assembly is embedded into the leading edge of the rudder. This can often lead to a damaged rudder should access landing forces be transferred to the rudder. A better way is the install the tailwheel tiller under the rudder and connect it to the control surface with a small rubber band. Slip the tiller into a length of plastic tubing and glue a dowel crosswise through the rudder. Loop the rubber band over the tiller and the ends of the dowel. Kevin Murphy, Kingston, New York
SEND IN YOUR IDEAS! We want your ideas for Hobby Hacks! This month’s winners will receive a free one-year membership to the Model Airplane News Hangar website. Send high-res digital images, your name and address, and a brief description to MAN@airage.com.
6 ModelAirplaneNews.com
PILOT
PROJECTS SHOWCASING WHAT YOU BUILD & FLY | EMAIL ENTRIES TO: MAN@AIRAGE.COM
PILOT T PROJEHCE OF T MONTH
CARTOON SQUADRON David Lees, Ravenna, Ohio
These 40-inch-span foamies use E-flite power systems and 4-channel control and are decorated with Rustoleum spray paint and vinyl graphics. David writes, “I built the T-28 from Julius Perdana’s plans, and it looked so cool I also built a Zero and P-47 versions. The planes look like a barrel with wings, but they fly extremely well. Easy to take off and land, they do loops, rolls, Immelmans, hammerheads, and even four-point rolls. Easy to see in the air, and they really draw a crowd.”
PA-18 SUPER CUB
Michael Trautman, Champaign, Illinois A friend gave Michael an unfinished Dynaflite PA-18 Super Cub kit that he completed building. He installed a DLE 55cc gas engine and covered the model with Koverall, with latex paint applied with homemade stencils. The paint scheme is that of a 1959 Super Cub that was modeled after a Marine Corps F4U Corsair.
TAYLORCRAFT
Soren Wolff, Truckee, California
FIELD WINDSOCK
Soren used his time during the Covid lockdown to teach himself to build and fly RC! His third build was this this 72-inch-span Alien Aircraft Taylorcraft kit. The 5.7-pound plane is powered by a Power 52 motor using a 5S 2200mAh LiPo battery pack.
David Nodeen, Alpha, Illinois
David’s club field couldn’t put up a permanent windsock, so he built this mobile unit out of PVC and wood and added wheels. He writes, “You can have the sock at 6 feet or up to 12 feet high. It stands up by itself, and if it blows over it might be too windy to fly! Maybe some field somewhere could use a handy windsock like this.”
SEND IN YOUR PICTURES!
Model Airplane News is your magazine, and we encourage reader participation. Email your high-resolution images to MAN@airage.com, with your contact information and details on your project. The “Pilot Project of the Month” winner will receive a free one-year membership to the Model Airplane News Hangar website.
8 ModelAirplaneNews.com
RCGF 40cc T/ Stinger $429.99
New RCGF 20cc RE/Stinger $239.99
RCGF 125cc T/ Stinger Twin $769.99
New RCGF 15cc RE/ Stinger $229.99
RCGF Propellers in Stock!
New RCGF 35cc RE/Stinger $309.99
ON THE FLIGHTLINE REVIEWS | PERSONALITIES | GEAR | FUN STUFF | NEWS
NEW RELEASES Old School Model Works Bat Based off a ’70s World Engines kit, the laser-cut parts of the Bat kit can be assembled in just a few hours. Between the twin fins, there is an expansive internal area to allow in the installation of a variety of radio gear, as well as batteries (or fuel tank). This is all accessible via three hatches: the two servo hatches and a center hatch with a quick-release latch setup. The 37.25-inch-span model needs a 3-channel radio system with elevon mixing and an .09 to .15 engine or electric equivalent. The kit costs $65.95. oldschoolmodelworks.com
“Model Aircraft Precision Aerobatics”
RBC Kits Supermarine Attacker Designed to use a 90mm Midi fan Evo EDF system and 8 to 10S 5000mAh battery, this model of the RAF fighter is a great building project. It includes CNC cut balsa and ply parts with a tab-lock system and includes full-size, rolled CAD plans, vacuum-formed canopy, nosecone, paper exhaust and inlet ducting, and sheeting. The finished 66.8-inch-long jet has a removable wing. The kit costs about $330. rbckits.com
10 ModelAirplaneNews.com
This book by F3A champion Peter Jenkins is a guide for beginners as well those who would like to improve their flying skills. It offers advice on center of gravity position, engine/motor thrust lines, and control throws; takes you through the basics of aerobatic maneuvers with accompanying diagrams; and shares setup and trimming tips. A $28.40 hard copy book and Kindle version are available. amazon.com
Grumania Jets G-Vector Micro The smallest vector system in the world, this slip-on unit goes onto your jet pipe and is fixed with four screws. The free-floating system is a nice addition for those who would like a fully aerobatic mini or micro jet that uses Kingtech KG45 or similar turbine (up to 60N). It costs about $160. grumania.com
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Add your unique perspective to the content mix on ModelAirplaneNews.com! We’re looking for flightline reporters and contributors to share their expertise and advice in posts and videos.
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ON THE FLIGHTLINE
PRODUCT REVIEW:
FLYING TIGER RC
TIGER TRANSMITTER TRAY
L
et’s face it, one of the downsides of being a longtime RC modeler and pilot is that your age catches up with you. You can easily get new glasses when your eyes are affected, but when it comes to things like holding your transmitter and smoothly operating the control sticks and switches, you need something designed especially for the task. After years of flying without a transmitter support system, I decided to try out a new transmitter tray and shoulder harness system, and I love how it works. The Tiger Transmitter Tray from Flying Tiger RC is perfectly designed for any RC transmitter so it will easily fit and support your favorite radio. Featuring two adjustable rear guides, the Pro Tiger Tray allows secure attachment of most brands of transmitters. You also get two adjustable hand pads comfortably covered with soft 1/8-inch neoprene foam and all the necessary hardware to set up the tray for your specific needs. The hand pads provide hand and wrist support for stress-free flying. Paired with the Pro-Grip shoulder harness, the transmitter tray (with quick release attachment points) is easy to put on and take off, and the weight of the radio and tray hardware are freed from your grasp, being ergonomically supported with your shoulders. For many RC pilots with arthritis and other health issues, the Flying Tiger RC Pro Tiger Transmitter tray has changed their lives by allowing them to again enjoy their hobby. It has made a believer out of me, too. It costs $79.95 (complete package). –Gerry Yarrish (with photo model Adam Murphy)
flyingtigerrc.com
12 ModelAirplaneNews.com
ON THE FLIGHTLINE
PRODUCT REVIEW:
GT POWER C6D AND X2 BATTERY CHARGERS
The $59.99 X2 Mini is an AC/DC unit that can charge two batteries simultaneously.
F
an Jets USA has a large selection of products dedicated to electric ducted fan jets, including upgraded fans, motors, and a full line of jets from Flex Innovations, JTM, and RBC. When you support electric jets with the enthusiasm of Fan Jets USA, you naturally need to supply and support battery chargers. I received two samples of the GT Power battery charges to test out and report on, the C6D Mini and the X2 Mini. The $39.99 C6D is compact, simple to use, and runs on AC power. The single channel output unit can charge Ni-Cd and NiMH batteries as well as lithium ion, 2- to 4-cell LiPo and LiPo HV (4.35V per cell fully charged instead of 4.2), LiFe, and lead-acid batteries. The C6D is rated at 100 watts output and can charge a single pack up at up to 10 amps and has options to balancecharge, discharge and, depending on the cell type, storage-charge batteries. There’s even a “Fast Charge” option that you can use at the track or flying field if you need to get back in the action quickly. Each battery type has memories that you can program for your most common battery charging needs. The C6D came with a 20-page instruction manual that explains the programming and has a flow chart to take you through all the buttons and options. I wanted to see how easy the charger was to use so I set aside the manual, plugged in the charger, and
The $39.99 C6D Mini is a single-output AC charger that works with up to 4-cell LiPos.
started to play. It was quite intuitive, and I managed to cycle through the various options, and I had my 2S LiPo pack that I use for bench setups balance charging in just a few moments. Holding down the enter button activated the charge routine. Status information is available while charging by cycling through the menu with the Status buttons. An IR test menu gives you an idea of the health of your battery packs. The C6D is inexpensive, convenient, and easy to use and serves its purpose well for batteries up to 4-cell LiPo. It will be great to have in my shop to charge receiver and small flight packs and I’m sure I will get a lot of use out of it. The $59.99 X2 Mini Charger is a nice upgrade because it not only has dual outputs so you can charge two packs at a time, but it adds the option to run on either 110 AC wall power, or 12 volts DC if you have a power supply available. Since many flying fields are remote and lack city power, I’ve seen modelers use deep-cycle marine 12 batteries to power chargers so the option for 12v input is a convenient one. The X2 features an output of 100 watts per channel so you can charge two batteries at up to 10 amps each. As with any modern charger it also has options to balance charge, discharge, and depending on the cell type, storage charge the batteries you connect to it. It also has the “Fast Charge” option and five battery type configurations you can
program in. The X2 includes a comprehensive instruction manual that explains the programming and has a flow chart to take you through the various options. Like its little brother, the X2 interface was quite intuitive, and I easily cycled through the various options, and I had my 2S LiPo pack that I use for bench setups balance-charging in just a few moments. Holding down the enter button activates the charge routine. When you order either charger, make sure you get the appropriate charge leads. Each has an XT-60 output, so if you’re charging XT-60 packs you’re set, but most of us have a variety of battery connectors and Fan Jets USA has a 4-way charge lead available for less than $5 that covers several pack types. The 2S to 4S balance connector uses JST style which most of today’s battery packs come with. The X2 also has status information and an IR test menu. It is a great value charger and the ability to use with AC or DC power input makes it flexible for use at home, in the shop, or at the field. An AC power cord is included but if you wish to use DC input you will have to purchase or make a wiring harness with an XT-60 connector. –By Andrew Griffith
fanjetsusa.com gt-rc.com
OCTOBER 2021 13
ON THE FLIGHTLINE
Oasser PS1 Mini Air Inflator Measuring 9.6 x 2.2 x 2.2 inches, this rechargable (12V AC/DC) air compressor is powered by a long lasting, built-in 2000mAh lithium-ion battery. Featuring an easy to read, backlight LCD digital pressure gauge, the PS1 has three optional operational units: PSI, BAR, and KPA (Kg/cm²). You can also preset the maximum pressure value. The air pump will automatically shut off when the pressure reaches the preset value (120 PSI max). Featuring a bright, built-in LED flashlight, the PS1 includes a 13.5-inch-long air hose, a home wall charger, an automotive DC charger, builtin 2000mAh Lithium battery with low-voltage protection, a ball inflator needle, a pool toy nozzle, a brass Presta valve for bicycle tires, four valve caps and one draw string storage bag. It costs $49.
oasser.net
A
ED V O PPR
Du-Bro Products Tubing Benders When it comes to doing a job correctly, there’s an old saying, “There’s a tool for every job.” When working with brass tubes for fuel and smoke oil tanks, you have to bend the vent tubes (inside the tank) to allow the vent lines to work properly. It doesn’t take long to figure out that using your hands or a pair of pliers, the brass tube is easily kinked. Trying to fix a kink only ends up breaking the tube. Designed for use with 1/8- and 5/32inch annealed brass fuel tube (or aluminum tube,) the Du-Bro bending tools are perfect for most configurations and they do not collapse the tube wall. The tube benders are easy to use and can produce various bend angles. Simply make where you want the bend, insert the tube and form the bend. The 1/8-inch tube bender (SKU 785) is $16, and the 5/32-inch bender (SKU 786) is $20. Perfect additions to any RC workbench.
dubro.com 14 ModelAirplaneNews.com
V O R P AP
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Turn. Twist. Evade. Attack! based off a 1970's World Engines kit.
Fun to fly alone. TONS OF FUN TO FLY IN GROUPS! + Parts included for glow or electric powered versions. + The low parts count allows you to completely frame-up the Bat in just a few hours. p + Precision, laser-cut parts, all cut from Frame tua in jus e hours! hand selected balsa and ply. coupl +
Let's Build Something.
MA D E
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USAN 37” w.s. • 360 sq in. 22-28 oz. (rtf) power: glow - .09-.11: electric- 250+ watt (3s lipo) radio: 3 channel
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WARBIRDS OVER DELAWARE
29 YEARS OF MILITARY AVIATION FUN By the Model Airplane News Crew | Photos by Gregory Schock & Montana Masker
As always, the Model Airplane News editors agree that our favorite regional event to attend is the Warbirds Over Delaware (WOD) Giant-Scale Fly-In held at Lums Pond State Park in Bear, Delaware. Though the warbird extravaganza was canceled last year because of the Covid 19 pandemic, this year the Delaware RC Club held its 29th annual event. For most of 2021, event co-directors Dave and Pete Malchione worked with the local government and the CDC to figure out whether the big warbird event could be hosted with all the necessary restrictions. Eventually, the July 7 to 10 event was approved—just before it was scheduled to happen! Lots of hard work by the club members and volunteers paid off, and even the weather even cooperated. 16 ModelAirplaneNews.com
Adam Lilley flew this Douglas DC-3 cargo plane. The 14-foot-span cargo plane is powered by a pair of Zenoah G-38 gas engines.
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OCTOBER 2021 17
WARBIRDS OVER DELAWARE CLOSED AIRSPACE? Just as the event was ready to go, the club heard from the FAA and AMA that President Biden would be flying to his home in Delaware, effectively shutting down all RC activities. The NOTAM (Notice to Airmen) was short-lived—at least for the Warbirds Over Delaware event. Dave and Pete had been working closely with the FAA before the event, and they received a waiver. Not only could the warbird event go on as planned, but representatives from the Secret Service and the FAA would be in attendance. Though it sounded ominous at first, the opportunity for having these government individuals as guests turned out to be an incredibly positive thing. They were very friendly and took the opportunity to chat with the pilots and modelers in the crowd. The big takeaway: the official guests were completely convinced that giant-scale warbirds and turbine jets are by no means “drones!” As far as they were concerned, the event can continue into the future regardless of FAA regulations and airspace restrictions. Everyone was happy and the agents had Just a small gathering of WW I Gaggle goers. The WW I Gaggle flights remain extremely popular, and most of the biplanes were built from Balsa USA kits.
a great time learning more about our hobby. A showcase for all types of military aircraft, Warbirds Over Delaware attracts many pilots and spectators, and the facility is perfect for campers and trailers. And of course there’s plenty of room for participants to pitch their sun tents. The event provides several huge tents to house and protect the models during overnight storage. When pilots arrive and check in at the registration tent, all the paperwork gets taken care of in a hurry. The local Boy Scout troop and regional Civil Air Patrol were on hand to assist in everything from parking to the food concession. ON THE FLIGHTLINE Open to all giant-scale military-aircraft models and fighters; any and all eras are welcome. It’s not uncommon to see a Fokker E.III Eindecker parked next to a Mustang or a twin engine bomber. And this year’s event was well-attended, with over 100 aircraft in attendance. Of the many amazing warbirds cutting up the sky, there were a few standouts as well. Event regular Adam
Lilley was on hand all week long and he debuted two of his newest aircraft. His Douglas DC-3 cargo plane has a 14-foot span and is powered by a pair of Zenoah G-38 gas engines. Built from Nick Ziroli plans, the DC-3 has traditional wood construction. Flying as part of the noontime demonstration show, Adam also piloted a big 40%-scale Piper L-4 Grasshopper. Adding a new twist to his demo flights, Adam invited a young child from the audience to try and fly his giant scale Piper observation plane. In fact, Adam was in complete control and the crowd was thinking the young would-be RC pilot was on the verge of re-kitting the L-4. An unusual WW II aircraft was flown by Andrew Scabini in the form of a Bücker Bü 181 Bestmann. Nicely detailed, Andrew’s model was of the Bücker Bestmann that was used in the movie “The Great Escape.” It was flown in the movie by James Garner with Donald Pleasence as passenger. Several Ju 87 Stuka dive bombers were also on hand, and Steve Peckham showed off his G-62 powered tank buster sporting the WW II
German Afrika Korp. paint scheme. The 100-inch model was built from Ziroli plans. Another regular on the flightline was Don Basovitch with his impressive Commonwealth Aircraft Wirraway. Often confused with the AT-6 Texan, Don’s Wirraway was powered by a Zenoah G-62 and equipped with a smoke system. And talking about unusual, Long Island Skyhawks member Gene Gavin showed off his 1/3-scale Vickers F.B.19 Bullet. Beautifully painted and detailed, Gene’s WW I biplane was powered by a DLE 120cc gas engine. GAGGLE FLIGHTS A favorite of the event was the Great WW I Gaggle, which is open to anyone with a plane of the appropriate vintage. On Saturday, about 20 WW I biplanes and triplanes mixed it up over the trenches. Lots of low-level strafing runs and personal dogfights kept the excitement high. The most popular airplanes for the event were Balsa USA kitbuilt biplanes. This was followed by the popular WW II Gaggle. With dozens of heavy-metal warbirds tearing up the skies, these aircraft flew lower and
Steve Peckham showed off his G-62 powered tank busting Stuka dive-bomber.
Adam Lilley’s DC-3 nose art.
Tom Dicuirci’s 1/4-scale Balsa USA Nieuport 17 takes off for the Gaggle flight.
John Braun Jr. and Sr. flew this Phoenix Models Westland Lysander. The model is powered by a DLE 55cc gas engine and controlled with a Spektrum radio.
The flightline was always filled with warbirds. Here, the gang from the Long Island Skyhawks club spread out their wares for all to admire. Sal Calvagna is having a friendly conversation with one of the FAA guys attending the event. Dave and Pete Malchione launch their 40% Spad XIII for part of the noontime Memorial flight.
Mark Castiglione’s Top R/C Zero is powered by a Saito 90R 3-cylinder Radial engine and has Robart retracts.
Gene Gavin’s Vickers Bullet patrols the skies during the WW I Gaggle.
Flown by Dave Malchione Jr. during the Memorial Flight, this Skymaster BAe Hawk put on a great show. It was the only turbine-powered jet at the event this year. Scott Annis’ modified Balsa USA 1/4-scale D.VII. Powered by a NGH 38cc gas engine with a 22 x 10 Xoar prop, the German biplane lost its tail skid during the Gaggle Flight.
The flightline at Warbirds Over Delaware is always well-appointed with plenty of shade and tents for overnight model storage.
Don Basovitch’s Wirraway comes screaming from the clouds with smoke on!
Andrew Scabini brought his unusual Bücker Bü 181 Bestmann. The full-size aircraft starred in the movie “The Great Escape.”
Frank Fels shows off his beautiful 1/3-scale Fokker D.VII built from the Balsa USA kit. Frank’s WWI German dogfighter has a 118-inch span.
YOUNGEST WARBIRD PILOT
Piloting his E-flite Carbon-Z T-28 Trojan, 15-year-old Cody Masker (a Delaware RC club member) did a great job keeping up with the other warbirds. Cody’s 78-inch-span Trojan is made of molded Z-Foam and was equipped with retracts and flaps. Power comes from a 22.2V LiPo flight pack and it was guided with a Spektrum radio system. faster than their WW I counterparts. With both Allied and Axis aircraft in the traffic pattern, loops, rolls, bomb drops, and smoke trails kept everyone interested. ELECTRIC MAYHEM It just wouldn’t be Warbirds Over Delaware without the infamous Saturday-night Electric Mayhem! Right after the Saturday night barbecue, a line of anti-aircraft gunners manned the field. With everything from slingshots and BB guns to paintball guns and
potato cannons waiting for them, brave pilots flew the gauntlet with their old, worn-out foamie planes! Their mission: be the last one flying at the end. You could actually see the aircraft getting hit, with pieces of foam flying everywhere. This year the good-hearted battle between Team Malchione and the Long Island Skyhawks crew was a sight to behold. It’s a fight to the finish as pilots try to knock each other out while taking a detour now and then to run the gauntlet. If you ever attend the WOD event, make sure to bring a foamie, extra
battery packs, and plenty of glue! BOTTOM LINE If you like having fun, and flying (or just watching,) giant-scale warbirds, then Warbirds over Delaware is the event for you. Co-directors Dave and Pete Malchione and all the hardworking volunteers from the Delaware RC Club earned their kudos this year. Be sure to mark your calendar for next year. And for more information, check out the WOD website at delawarerc.org/ warbirds.htm.
Pert Asiatico’s Balsa USA J-3 Cub sports an unusual paint scheme. The O.S. 1.60 4-stroke glow engine powered model is controlled with a Futaba radio system.
OCTOBER 2021 21
FLIGHT
TECHNIQUE TEXT & ILLUSTRATIONS BY DAVID SCOTT PHOTOS BY DAVID HART
A symmetrical wing 3D aircraft should have a 2-to-1 power-to-weight ratio, no wing dihedral, large, full-span ailerons and a large rudder and elevator.
INTRO TO 3D FLYING Fly like the pros in half the time! Throughout the coming months, I will be detailing the intricate flying techniques required to perform a variety of 3D maneuvers while I share some solutions to overcome the most challenging aspects of 3D flying in half the time. Please note that anyone seriously undertaking 3D flying should be reasonably proficient at aerobatics and know the rudiments of loops, slow rolls, inverted and knife-edge flight. You should be comfortable managing your power settings and using the rudder throughout your flights. With that as a foundation, you can look forward to 3D flying success. 22 ModelAirplaneNews.com
3D DEFINED 3D flying can be best described as taking advantage of modern radio capabilities and excess power to perform amazing stunts that seem to defy the laws of aerodynamics and gravity. In other words, 3D flying is about making an airplane do things that you wouldn’t normally think an airplane would be capable of, such as flipping end over end and flying on the propeller thrust like a helicopter rather than on the wing like during aerobatics. You should also understand that 3D stunt flying and precision aerobatics are entirely different styles of flying, involving vastly different and contrasting flying techniques and equipment setups. The following are some of the major differences between 3D and aerobatics. CONSISTENCY Aerobatics. A proficient precision aerobatic pilot performs each maneuver repeating control inputs that produce basically the same result each time. A good airplane pilot proactively controls what the plane does rather than reacting to it. The role of handeye coordination during aerobatics is primarily to add the final touches to perform the maneuvers nearly perfectly. 3D. Because things are constantly changing and no two attempts ever work out the same, 3D flying is done
almost entirely reacting to the airplane. Therefore, very fast reflexes (as well as fast servos) are vitally important to 3D flying success. In fact, pilots need to remind themselves to keep their fingers moving and to cease being smooth when switching from aerobatic flying to 3D.
equipment and a good setup will make the maneuvers easier and improve a pilot’s learning curve, it is ultimately the skill of the pilot that has the greatest impact on the quality of each aerobatic maneuver. > 3D. The degree of difficulty of each 3D maneuver depends a great deal on how adept the pilot is at utilizing dual rates, exponential, and programmable mixes.
LEARNING CURVE Aerobatics. With a good understanding of the proper procedure, most aerobatic maneuvers can be learned fairly quickly, with some measure of success experienced within the first few attempts (it’s perfecting them that takes time). 3D. The majority of 3D maneuvers require extensive practice (and programming) before the first successful attempt is realized. Inputs Aerobatics. An aerobatic pilot needs to make fewer control inputs as his skills improve due to the fact that his inputs become so precise that there’s little or no need for additional corrections. That is why it is said in competition circles that “the guy who makes the fewest moves, wins!” 3D. A 3D pilot needs to continually adjust the aileron, elevator, rudder, and throttle throughout most 3D maneuvers.
SUMMARY Don’t confuse 3D control setups and flying techniques with the techniques used to fly aerobatics. Whereas aerobatic success primarily depends upon the efficient exercise of good fundamental control skills, 3D success requires committed practice, good programming skills as well as exceptional flying skills and reflexes. Simply put, those who will become successful 3D pilots don’t aspire to fly 3D because it’s quick or easy. The challenge and intense thrills of 3D flying typically appeal to those who want to be on the cutting edge and are willing to commit the time and resources to prove to themselves and others that they have what it takes. Of course, every pilot also wants to fly 3D because it looks really cool!
PLANE VS. PILOT Aerobatics. A straightforward plane setup is used that corresponds to the commands of the pilot. Although good
3D TOOLS The 3D reference associated with certain airplanes indicates that the plane is lightly constructed and features
Smaller built-up ARFs and lightweight foam airplanes really shine, particularly when you are learning to fly 3D. OCTOBER 2021 23
FLIGHT TECHNIQUE: INTRO TO 3D FLYING
large control surfaces capable of deflecting 40 degrees or more. Since most 3D flying takes place at very low airspeeds, large surfaces are necessary to maintain control authority when there’s not a lot of airflow to work with. A good 3D airplane will also have at least a 2-to-1 power-to-weight ratio and thus be able to hover at half throttle with power to spare. There are generally two types of 3D airplanes. The first is a lightweight scale model such as an Extra, Edge, Yak, etc., with large control surfaces, a tapered wing, no dihedral and a symmetrical airfoil; this type of aircraft is capable of both 3D and precision aerobatics. The second type is a non-scale aircraft, including many flat-plate-airfoil electric foamies that are designed primarily for 3D flying; consequently, these tend to make poor precision aerobatic airplanes. This distinction is important because it will ultimately influence how you set up and fly each of your planes. You wouldn’t be happy with the results if you tried to fly precision aerobatics with an airplane designed primarily for 3D (and vice-versa). 3D flying is where lightweight foam airplanes really shine, particularly when you are learning to fly 3D. Foamies are amazingly durable and fly very slow, so they enable you to fly low and close for better visibility. Plus, everyone makes mistakes learning to fly 3D and training on a foamie won’t break the bank during the inevitable ground impacts. A good 3D trainer will also have two aileron servos so that you can program flaperons and other mixes to aid in certain flight situations. The tradeoffs are that flat-plate-airfoil foamies don’t handle wind well, and their inherent pitch instability makes it nearly impossible to find an elevator trim setting that works consistently.
2-to-1 power-to-weight ratio or better
Lightweight
Symmetrical wing 3D/aerobatic Edge 540, Extra, etc.
24 ModelAirplaneNews.com
Large full-span ailerons
Large elevator
Large rudder
Flat-plate airfoil 3D “foamie”
SETUP TIPS There are numerous information sources on basic 3D airplane and radio setup, so I won’t rehash that information here. However, here are a few tips to help optimize your 3D setup and avoid some common pitfalls. Any 5+ channel radio with dual rates, exponential, and mixing capabilities will work fi ne for 3D flying. You’ll obviously set up the high rates for maximum 3D travel and the low (normal) rates to provide the
Exaggerated aileron twist example. You must account for any twist in a control surface to set up true neutral.
(HALF SPAN) True Neutral
No wing dihedral
Do not use the inboard trailing edge exclusively to set neutral aileron.
optimum travel for aerobatic flying, takeoff, and landing. To stay focused on flying and not on flipping switches, it’s recommended that you put all your dual rate and expo settings on one switch (a “mode” or “condition” switch). Next, increase the travel percentage in your radio to the maximum (e.g., 150%). This will offer the maximum servo resolution possible with a 3D setup. As a rule, mechanically adjust the control linkages to achieve the neutral control surface positions and the manufacturer’s recommended maximum surface deflections, then fi ne-tune things with the radio. Among other advantages, this will make programming simpler when you start flying and have to make adjustments. Note that It’s common for control surfaces to have some degree of twist, so make sure that you account for and “average” the twist to set the true overall neutral position of each surface. A common mistake is lining up the end of the aileron with
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FLIGHT TECHNIQUE: INTRO TO 3D FLYING
the wing tip or the inboard trailing edge of the wing, and then have to make large trim adjustments in flight because the twisted surface wasn’t truly neutral to start. Last, when setting up your high and low rates, it is crucial that you repeatedly check the physical deflections of the surfaces in all directions. For a variety of reasons, it’s often necessary to program different percentages to achieve the same physical travel in both directions. Every year thousands of airplanes are faulted because pilots make certain assumptions based on the “numbers” they read off of the transmitter, but they leave out the step of confirming all the physical deflections. They then either end up unhappy with the way their planes handle or assume that having more than the left. FLIGHT CHECKS A series of flight checks are required to program your radio for 3D flying. These flights should not be viewed as practice flights, but a time to evaluate your plane’s tendencies and fi ne-tune your radio setup. It’s therefore important to conduct your initial flight checks in calm conditions to make it easier to detect your plane’s tendencies and the appropriate mixes to use. The first flight should take place on low rates and you should trim the airplane for slow flight at approximately half throttle. Note that if you’re flying a flat-plate-airfoil foamie, you probably won’t be able to find an elevator trim setting that works
As a rule, first mechanically adjust the control surfaces and then fine-tune things with the radio. Note that it’s normal to have to program different travel percentages to achieve equal physical deflections in both directions.
consistently, so the objective is to get it close and make elevator corrections the rest of the time. Once the aileron and elevator have been trimmed, check the rudder trim by performing left and right 360-degree circles while maintaining a 45-degree bank angle and a constant altitude. If the nose wants to drop more in one direction, put in a little opposite rudder trim. The rudder is trimmed when both left and right 360s “feel” the same and require the same amount of up-elevator to hold a constant altitude.
Once the plane is fully trimmed, start evaluating the low-rate control responses during basic loops and both left and right rolls. The manufacturer’s recommended control throws and expo percentages are usually good starting points, but to fly your best, you must adjust each control to suit your immediate comfort/skill level. Therefore, as soon as you deem a control to be too slow or sensitive, land, and adjust the dual-rate percentage. Remember that the numbers on the screen are not important; only how the
RIGHT 360 (45-degree bank)
LEFT 360 (45-degree bank)
If you find yourself working to prevent a downward spiral in one direction, put in some opposite rudder trim. The rudder is trimmed when the plane feels the same during both left and right 360s.
Precision Aerobatics Deflection :
Deflection : Aileron Elevator Rudder
10-150 10-150 20-300
(10-20% expo) (10-20% expo) (10-20% expo)
Linear = Predictable
26 ModelAirplaneNews.com
3D Stunt Flying
Aileron Elevator Rudder
300 450 450
(30-50% expo) (30-50% expo) (20-30% expo)
Exponential
LEFT RUDDER KNIFE-EDGE EXAMPLE: Noticeable left roll = 10% right aileron mix with left rudder. Slight tuck toward the belly/landing gear = 5% up-elevator mix with left rudder.
airplane feels to you matters. Also, try to be sensitive to whether the controls are equally responsive in both directions and keep fine-tuning the controls until you are comfortable with your plane’s handling and it is equally responsive left and right and up and down. Next, get some altitude and switch to high rates. If any control is too sensitive, switch to low rates, land, and increase the expo percentage (on high rate) for that control. The goal is to adjust the expo percentages to enable you to fly with the “feel” of normal rates when your control inputs are less than half, but then rapidly ramp up beyond that. Don’t hesitate to reduce the expo on a control if it feels sluggish. Flying with too much expo causes a lag or sluggish control response that will allow deviations to grow larger before your corrections take effect. (Too much expo will cause you to feel disconnected to the plane.) The objective is to use the least amount of expo and still feel comfortable. Put another way, the proper use of expo is to make a 3D airplane comfortably controllable on high rates, not to make it docile! Remember, dedicated 3D airplanes with large control surfaces are designed to fly at slower speeds. The tradeoff is that if a dedicated 3D airplane is flown too fast, almost no amount of expo will prevent the controls from becoming too sensitive on high rates. It’s important to keep track of your speed and avoid flying too fast when evaluating your plane’s control responses.
passes (all in the same direction) to see how your plane tracks and whether you need to invoke some mixing. Start by positioning the throttle to half, roll right 90 degrees to knife-edge and apply about half top left rudder and hold it. Do not attempt to correct any deviations at this time. Most likely, you will observe the plane roll in the direction that you are holding the rudder. Land the airplane and, while holding in left rudder and watching the control surfaces, mix some opposite right aileron with left
Perform several tight inside loops to identify whether the plane is prone to turning or dropping a wing. If so, activate an elevator/rudder mix. If the tendency is slight, try a 5% mix. If it is more noticeable, try a 10% mix.
rudder using the 5-10% (15% max) mix rule. If the tendency is slight, try a 5% rudder-aileron mix, if it’s more noticeable, try a 10% mix. Note that each mix that you put in may only be applicable to the maneuver that prompted it, but it may turn out to be contrary to what’s needed during another maneuver or end up causing a deviation somewhere else that otherwise would not have existed. Thus, the most efficient and effective use of programmable mixes is to mix no more
Tight Inside Loop
Left wing drops noticeably = mix 10% right rudder with up elevator
KNIFE-EDGE MIX 1 Once you’re satisfied with your airplane’s general handling on high rates, perform several steep knife-edge OCTOBER 2021 27
FLIGHT TECHNIQUE: INTRO TO 3D FLYING
than 5-10% (15% max). Limiting each mix to 5-10% (15% max) will make 3D flying easier without having too much impact on other maneuvers or causing you to do a lot of backtracking as your repertoire increases. KNIFE-EDGE MIX 2 Airplanes will also often pitch or “tuck” toward the belly during a left rudder knife-edge. Whether your plane tucks toward the belly or the canopy, land. While holding in left rudder and watching the control surfaces, mix the appropriate elevator correction with left rudder. Foamies sometimes twist and distort so much while maneuvering that they don’t conform to the normal tendencies. Nevertheless, the process of observing the plane’s tendencies and implementing a mix is the same, only the direction and percentages may be different than the stock examples provided here. Perform several steep knife-edges heading in the opposite direction using half right rudder. As you detect your plane’s tendencies, address each using the mixing procedures described above. Note that the effects of torque, propwash, and P-factor (asymmetric propeller thrust) can vary a lot depending on the circumstances. You will therefore very likely end up using different mix percentages for left and right rudder knife-edges. Once again, the numbers displayed on the transmitter aren’t as important as how the airplane actually handles in the air. LOOP CHECKS AND MIXING Perform several tight loops to see how straight your plane tracks and whether you need to implement another mix. Do not make any corrections yet. You will likely observe the plane veer to the left during inside (up-elevator) loops due to propwash and P-factor left turning tendencies at a positive angle of attack. If your plane exhibits a tendency to drop the left wing during tight inside loops, land. While holding in full up-elevator and watching the control surfaces, mix some right rudder with up-elevator using the 5-10% (15% max) mix rule. Next, climb to a safe height and perform several tight outside loops on high rates to see whether your plane falls off to one side. Do not attempt any corrections yet. Whereas P-factor is 28 ModelAirplaneNews.com
Perform several tight outside loops to identify whether the plane is prone to turning or dropping a wing. If so, activate an elevator/ rudder mix.
Pull-Right
Tight Outside Loop
Pull-Left
The inside-outside partial Cuban 8 is a great maneuver to fi ne tune your rudder mixes and flying skills on pulls and pushes. The slogan to remember is, “pull right, push left” (pulls require right rudder and pushes require left rudder).
a left turning tendency during inside loops (pulls), P-factor is a right turning tendency during outside loops (pushes). If your airplane consistently drops the right wing during outside loops, land. While holding in full down-elevator and watching the control surfaces, mix some left rudder with down elevator using the 5-10% (15% max) mix rule and fi ne-tune as needed. If you’ve added a significant left rudder mix (10%+) and the plane still drops its right wing, you’ll have to take the initiative to start inputting left rudder on pushes. The inside-outside partial Cuban 8 is a great maneuver for checking your rudder mixes and flying skills on pulls
and pushes. The slogan to remember is, “pull right, push left” (pulls require right rudder and pushes require left rudder). When you can consistently perform tight inside-outside Cubans without dropping a wing, you’re ready to attempt some basic 3D maneuvers. CONCLUSION Although aerobatic flying done well looks easy, 3D flying is as challenging as it looks. Take confidence in knowing that you’ve taken steps to minimize the obstacles and learn at the fastest rate possible. Until next time, good luck.
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FLIGHT
REPORT
TEXT & PHOTOS BY JOHN DUECK
MR AERODESIGN
A beautiful scale classic with great STOL performance From the start of my model aircraft obsession, I have always been drawn to the obscure and less modeled aircraft. The Pilatus Porter PC-6 with its unconventional design and rugged looks fits the bill. For years I have been searching for a scale kit of this aircraft. I finally found this beautifully designed kit from Martin Rousseau, owner and operator of MR Aerodesign in Quebec, Canada.
The Porter is a great flying STOL aircraft and it has a good presence in the sky.
AT A GLANCE Model: Pilatus Porter PC-6 Manufacturer/Distributor: MR AeroDesign (mraerodesign.securicom.ca) Wingspan: 120 in. Weight: 27.4 lbs. Pilot skill level: Intermediate Time to build: 60-80 hours Power req’d: 45 to 55cc gas (or turbine) Radio req’d: 5-channels/8 servos
The author shows off the size of his Flying Swiss Army Knife.
Price: $628 (Pilatus Porter PC-6 kit); $47.60 (PC-6 Cowling); $95 (PC-6 landing gear); $47 (PC-6 scale kit); - $56 (Deluxe PC-6 door kit)
FLIGHT REPORT: MR AERODESIGN PILATUS PORTER PC-6
Here the horizontal stabilizer takes shape over the plans.
All the laser-cut parts fit great and the instruction manual is very well
UNIQUE FEATURES With a wingspan of 120 inches, this kit is packaged nicely. Everything was neatly stacked, organized and wrapped to keep everything from moving during shipping. Included in the kit are, nicely laser cut wood parts, a CD full of closeup of high-res pictures, and drawings showing the placement of panel lines and inspection covers. I also received the landing gear assembly which includes working struts, a scale kit for the inspection covers, scale sliding door and door kit with hinges. These are optional above the base kit. Scale wheel hubs and a scale tail wheel assembly have also been added, but I did not purchase those for the build. The large rolled plans are included, along with all 32 ModelAirplaneNews.com
The wing construction is very straightforward and goes together nicely.
the rods, rod ends, and 4-40 bolts are Du-Bro Products. I started the build with the horizontal and vertical stabilizer. Both are built using the traditional system of balsa ribs, spars and balsa skins. The vertical stabilizer hinges with the brass tubes that keep them in place are designed like the full-sized aircraft, and the rudder is features a pull-pull control system. Both the horizontal and vertical stabilizers use a slot system to slide into the fuselage. If you like you can make both removable using a bolt and blind nut. I opted to just glue it to the fuselage using 30-minute epoxy. The elevators use Robart HingePoints that fit into slots. There is also an optional scale kit of thin laser cut sheets for
creating the corrugated look of the elevators, ailerons and flaps. One other option available is square carbon fiber rods to attach both elevator halves to move as one. As per the plans, they use two servos to move the elevator halves together. LANDING GEAR & FUSELAGE The optional landing gear are simple and strong. Included in the kit are beautifully machined struts with springs for dampening landing stresses. Wheel and tires are not included. I decided to use 6-inch tundra air tires from Du-Bro Products. When I started with the fuselage, I removed all the pieces from the laser cut plywood sheeting and piled them
Here the sheeted tail surfaces are being attached to the fuselage.
Here the fuselage is finished, and the windscreen has been fitted into place.
onto the workbench. The labeling for the parts and the building the manual makes everything go as smooth as possible. The laser cutting is very good. Once you get going on gluing the parts, it goes quite fast. The plans are very easy to follow, but I do have to say that this aircraft is not a beginner level build. In my opinion an intermediate and above experience level is needed. If you are familiar with builder kits, you won’t have an issue with this kit. I used Mercury Adhesives medium thickness CA then I switched to Gorilla Glue CA and kicker. The optional door kit was straight forward and easy to install. All pieces are laser cut from very thin laser board; it almost feels like thick paper. However, what the plans don’t tell you is to be
Here you see the long engine standoff tubes.
cognizant of the area for the doors. Whether you start with the wings before this stage or not, use the end spar that mates to the fuselage before installing the sliding door. There is a very tight fit at the upper portion of the door and where the flap hinge comes down. You will have to adjust the height of the door before gluing the rails in place. The smaller side door is an access for the elevator and rudder servos. You can use hinges for this door if you like. After the fiberglassing of the fuselage, I Installed the fuel tank and secured it in place with foam and large zip ties. The openings on either sides of the fuselage gives a huge amount of access within the fuselage.
POWERPLANT I use a DLE 55cc gas engine turning a Xoar 22x8 prop. This engine is more than enough for the Porter. Because of the long nose of this aircraft, I used some 4130 chromoly-steel tubes cut to length, and welded to make engine standoffs to minimize the space between the spinner and cowling. The Porter can also accept turbine engines should you choose to go that route, turbine engine mounts are available separately. I covered the fuselage with 0.75-oz. fiberglass cloth and resin and after sanding, I primed with grey Rust-Oleum Ultra Coat 2X. After fixing blemishes that I wasn’t happy with, I primed again and sanded with 220 grit. The paint that OCTOBER 2021 33
FLIGHT REPORT: MR AERODESIGN PILATUS PORTER PC-6
The Porter PC-6 has excellent ground handling with the scale landing gear and big tires.
Nicely weathered and detailed, the Porter looks great in the pit area before its first flight.
GEAR USED Radio: Hitec Aurora 9
HITS
+ Great overall flight performance + Good STOL performance with effective flaps + Plenty of optional accessories + Good instructions MISSES
-
34 ModelAirplaneNews.com
Engine: DLE 55cc (chiefaircraft.com) Prop: Xoar 22x8 (chiefaircraft.com)
Careful attention required for adding doors to fuselage.
I used was Rust-Oleum Camouflage. No clear coat was needed. I added some weathering using a wash of acrylic paints, the colors black and brown to simulate a used and unwashed finish. I simulated paint chipping using silver acrylic with a piece of 0000 steel wool as an applicator. The windscreen was the most challenging I have done. I decided to make a mold of the windscreen to do the complex cuts on and to make sure the fit would be good before I cut into the molded windscreen. I covered the windscreen with plastic wrap and packing tape to protect it. Then I laid a couple of layers of fiberglass and epoxy over the part. Once dry overnight, I pulled the part off and started to cut and
Servos: Hitec HS-425BB for elevators and flaps and HS-645MG for the rudder and ailerons (chiefaircraft.com)
Batteries: 3500mAh LiFe (receiver); 1800mAh LiFe (ignition)
shape the mold for the perfect fit on the fuselage. Once I was happy with the fit, I placed the mold over the windscreen and traced the lines where it needed to be cut. I glued the windscreen into place with Zap Canopy glue. THE WINGS The wings are a straightforward build. The wings are skinned with balsa sheeting. As with the fuselage, I used 0.75-oz fiberglass and resin to finish the wings. The hinges for the flaps and ailerons are of scale Porter design. This was a very interesting part of the build and everything went together smoothly. I painted the wings the same as the fuselage and I added wires within the wing for a scale light kit being built
from Dave’s RC. For markings, I used the Austrian Army livery, and I purchased the graphics from Callie Graphics. IN THE AIR The porter balanced perfectly with the two LiFe batteries at the front of the cockpit firewall. General Flight Performance Stability: The MR Aerodesign Porter has a heavy but nimble feel. There was a very small amount of pitch up when deploying the flaps. To counteract I just dialed in a small amount of elevator/flap mix. Tracking: With the long fuselage and big
The side doors make getting to the gear inside the fuselage easy as can be.
With markings from Callie-Graphics, the Porter looks like it means business.
tail surfaces, the Porter's flight performance was as docile as I had expected. Aerobatics: Definitely not intended to be an aerobat, The Porter liftoffs are relatively uneventful. The winds were strong but being a large size, it handled the wind with no problem. I had to use 2 clicks of right trim and three down for it to fly true with hands off. Using the DLE 55 engine is a perfect match for this aircraft.
The most unique area on the MR Aerodesign wing is the recreation of the aileron and flap lower hinge points. Not only are the hinges a replica of the full-sized Porter, they are simple and strong. The movement of the control surfaces is extremely smooth.
Stall & Glide performance: The flaps are huge and are very effective. With a wingspan of 120 inches, the Porter is massive. It is well behaved and is a great everyday flier. PILOT DEBRIEFING The way that this aircraft handles is a testament to the Porter design. I would recommend this intermediate kit to anyone looking for a challenge. If you enjoy scale aircraft as much as I do, you will not be disappointed.
AEROBATICS
MADE EASY BY THE MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS CREW ILLUSTRATION BY FX MODELS
3
4
1 2 5
GETTING INTO AEROBATICS Basic tips for perfect loops
W
hen you’ve learned how to fly and you can handle your airplane and consistently fly it straight and level, you’ll start looking for more challenges. Learning basic aerobatics is the best way to up the excitement and, while you’re at it, increase your piloting skills and precision. The first basic aerobatic maneuver you should master is the basic inside loop. INSIDE LOOP In an inside loop, the plane’s canopy faces toward the center of the loop during the maneuver. This move requires that you are proficient with basic straight and level flight and graceful, smooth control inputs are your key to success for this classic maneuver. BY THE NUMBERS STEP 1. Enter the maneuver flying parallel to the runway in upright and level flight.
STEP 2. When the plane is directly in front of you, gently pull the elevator stick back (up) to begin the loop. You might need to increase throttle to maintain maximum power as the model nears the top of the loop to maintain a constant flight speed. STEP 3. Start decreasing throttle as the plane begins to come over the top of the loop. When you are on the downward segment, the throttle should be close to idle. Continue to adjust up-elevator to maintain a perfectly round loop. STEP 4. As the model approaches the last quadrant of the loop, release elevator input so that the plane maintains the same altitude as it entered the maneuver while flying upright. STEP 5. Increase power to 60 percent after your model passes your center. Exit straight and level in upright flight.
PRO TIPS
1 2
Elevator plays a major part in flying a loop. Make all of your inputs gradually and smoothly because the model will reflect all of your inputs. If you find that your model’s heading is drifting during the maneuver, apply rudder inputs to keep its flight path parallel to the runway.
your radio on low rates throughout the 3 Keep outside loop. OCTOBER 2021 37
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HOW TO
Just add a little weathering and some smudges and the Triplane looks like the real thing.
COVER AND PAINT FABRIC-COVERED AIRPLANES Secrets to a perfect cloth finish BY GERRY YARRISH
I’ve been finishing and painting fabric covered scale models for many years. The best products I have found for the job is Stits Lite fabric and Poly-Tone finishing products. The techniques required are easy and the processes are very user-friendly. This article highlights some tips to help you get excellent results. For this article, I’ll share the process I used to finish and paint using my 1/3-scale Balsa USA Fokker Triplane. Let’s get started. OCTOBER 2021 39
HOW TO: COVER AND PAINT FABRIC-COVERED AIRPLANES
The Poly Tone finishing system is great for RC airplanes. It is the same stuff used on full-size aircraft.
Before you start covering, you have to build your model and do a great job sanding everything smooth.
A GOOD START
A
vailable from F&M Enterprises (stits.com), the PolyTone finishing system is designed to all work together and it bonds both mechanically and chemically to the Stits Lite fabric (Poly Fiber). The first step in producing a great paint job is to build your model as precisely and as smoothly as you can before applying the fabric covering. Fill all the glue seams and use lots of sandpaper. Wipe the structure down with a tack cloth to remove sanding dust. No amount of paint will cover up wrinkles or uneven seams in the structure.
I pour the Poly-Tak in a large mouth sealable jar to make it easier to use. Also I keep Acetone in a glass bowl for cleaning my brush.
40 ModelAirplaneNews.com
SAFETY TIP: Whenever you work with solvents and strong chemicals, use a chemical-blocking hand cream like Invisible Glove. Available from F&M Enterprises, it protects your skin, and allows easy cleanup with warm soap and water.
Everything should be sanded smooth and seams should be filled and sanded level and flush.
APPLYING FABRIC
Here’s the rudder placed onto a piece of the Poly Fiber cloth. When cutting the cloth to size, always use sharp razor blades.
Here the cloth has been cut to shape. Also I applied a coat of glue to the rudder.
Here the fabric has been tack down along the outline of the rudder.
Here you can see the covering overlay along the edge of the control surface.
A
s with other covering materials, you need to be careful and neat with your application. I start with the tail surfaces to warm up before tackling the fuselage and wings. Place the control surface on top of the fabric and cut the fabric to size making it about an inch larger all around. Apply a coat of thinned (with 10 to 15% Acetone) Poly-Tak adhesive to the outer edges of the surface and let dry. You do not need to apply adhesive to the ribs. Because it dries very quickly, I pour the glue into a small container and work from there. You should only apply the
Poly-Tak over several inches at a time or it may dry before you apply the fabric. As you become more familiar with the procedure you will modify the methods to suit you. I like to apply the fabric over the first coat of glue with another wet coat of glue so it can wick up through the fabric. Don’t worry about getting out all the wrinkles or stretching the material tight over the airframe. The fabric will shrink more than enough, and it doesn’t bubble or sag as the temperature changes. It pulls smoothly over compound curves and won’t pull away later. Start at the
top and iron down a small section of the fabric and allow to cool. Pull the fabric taught (but not over-tight,) and tack the fabric down at the bottom. Allow to cool and do the same to the left and right sides. Continue ironing down small sections and go around the perimeter of the surface. Use the iron to remove any large wrinkles and tighten the cloth slightly. Now turn the part over and repeat the process. Trim the covering to about a ¼-inch around the surface. Now slowly iron the cloth onto the edge all around. Cut the fabric with a hobby knife at any sharp corners and where OCTOBER 2021 41
HOW TO: COVER AND PAINT FABRIC-COVERED AIRPLANES
The same process is used for the elevators and horizontal stabilizer.
Here the control surfaces are covered and test fitted onto the fuselage.
The same technique is used on the ailerons for the top wing.
Here the middle wing is having fabric applied to the underside. It is tack to the root end and then at the tip rib.
Here is the middle wing panel with the fabric applied and tacked down around the outer edges and tip.
For structures and hardware sticking out from the wing, balsa framework has to be add around them so the covering can be anchored in place around it.
42 ModelAirplaneNews.com
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HOW TO: COVER AND PAINT FABRIC-COVERED AIRPLANES
Start covering the fuselage with the bottom surface.
Here is the slot for the tail skid. The covering is glued in place around the opening.
Here you see the bottom surface covering wrapped around the side longeron.
Here’s the fuselage side. Note the plywood side piece for the pushrod guide slot. Same thing is done for the rudder pull-pull cables.
Here the side covering is in place. The bottom edge wraps over the bottom covering.
Here the top covering is being tacked in place at the front and aft ends.
the cloth is glued to the fabric from the other side, use a small brush to apply Poly-Tak to the fabric, and press the covering into place. After the fabric is attached to the airframe, heat the iron to 225°F and smooth the edges down. Then, increase the temperature in 25° increments to shrink the fabric. You can stop at any time the fabric feels tight enough. The Poly-Fiber will shrink 10 to 12% at 350°. Once the surface is covered, I use a paper towel and some Acetone to 44 ModelAirplaneNews.com
remove any access glue from the outer surfaces. For the wings, start on the lower surfaces. Again apply Poly-Tak around the edges but not the ribs or sheeting. As with the tail surfaces, tack small sections of the fabric down and work around the perimeter of the wing. At the tip, pull the fabric taught and apply heat to the outer edges. Continue tacking the fabric down every 12 to 24 inches at a time, until the fabric is completely tacked down. and apply heat to remove
larger wrinkles and any loose fabric. But don’t use a high heat setting, this comes later. For the fuselage, start with the bottom surface and then add the fabric to the sides. Finally, apply the fabric to the top of the fuselage. Again, where there are covering seams where one piece of fabric is glued to another, use a small brush and apply glue to the fabric overlap and press into place. Then smooth the seam with the iron.
The top covering is tightened with extra material hanging over the sides.
A trick for getting straight seams in the covering is to slide a piece of poster paper under the seam.
Then cut along a guide line with a sharp blade.
To seal the seam, use a small brush and apply Poly-Tak under the overlap.
PRO TIP: When you cover a wing with an under-cambered lower surface, you do apply glue to the ribs so you can iron the fabric to the ribs, before you tack the cloth down around the leading and trailing edges. And press the fabric down and smooth it in place with your fingers. If there is any excess adhesive pushed out of the seam, clean it away with paper towels soaked in Acetone.
OCTOBER 2021 45
HOW TO: COVER AND PAINT FABRIC-COVERED AIRPLANES
SEALING THE FABRIC
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lean off your work surface and make sure there is nothing sharp on your worktable that could damage the fabric. Pour some Poly-Brush fabric sealer into a glass jar. Working with a large mouth, sealable container is much easier than dipping the brush into the small opening of a can. Have some Acetone in a glass bowl makes for quick brush cleaning. Again, I start with the smaller control surfaces and work my way up to the wings and then the fuselage. Use a 1/2inch brush to apply the Poly-Brush to all the ribs, stringers, and edges of the part you are finishing. The Poly-Brush both seals the fabric and helps bond the cloth to the underlying structure, so I apply it to all the contact points first and then fill in the open areas in between with a wider 1-inch brush. PolyBrush dries very quickly, so make all brush strokes in the same direction, overlaying stokes slightly as you go. Apply all of the first coat strokes in one direction, let them dry for about 20 to 30 minutes, and then apply the second coat 90 degrees to the first. This is all that’s needed, but the more coats of sealer you apply, the smoother your finish will be.
To make applying the Poly-Brush sealer easier to apply, pour into a sealable container and have some Acetone or denatured alcohol on hand to clean your brush.
All the wings hanging in the workshop to dry overnight.
Here the fuselage is being sealed. The Poly-Brush also serves to attach the fabric to the underlying surfaces.
SURFACE TAPES
A After applying Poly-Brush over the ribs and edges, apply your pinked tapes. Paper tapes is best for trailing edges and wingtips.
46 ModelAirplaneNews.com
fter applying your first two coats of Poly-Brush, you’ll have to decide whether or not you want to add rib tape and stitching details. If you do, now is the time to get it done. I use a combination of pinked paper hair setting tape and cloth bandage tape both available at drugstores and beauty supply shops. A good rule for applying surface tape is to apply all the short pieces first and then apply the longer edging tape to cover the ends of the shorter ones. Also, do not wrap the short ones all the way around the edges — cut them flush with the edges and then use the longer tape to finish up the edges. This makes the edge tape smoother and neater. You will find that the fabric bandage tape works great in straight lines but it is not as flexible as the paper tape which I use to cover the sharp trailing edges and the curved wingtip
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HOW TO: COVER AND PAINT FABRIC-COVERED AIRPLANES
bows. I’ve found that the combination of both tapes produces a very nice scale appearance. Brush on more PolyBrush over all the tape. I apply five to six coats over the tape and then after the tape has dried, I apply two more coats over the entire part running 90 degrees to the tape. This helps fill in the tape edges and blends them smoothly into the finish. F&M Enterprises also offers scale rib tapes cut from the same material used for the Poly Fiber covering.
Here you see the top wing being sealed. I apply several coated on top of the tapes to build up the sealer along the tape edges.
Here you see the under-cambered bottom surface of the wing. The Poly Fiber is glued to the ribs to prevent it from lifting away when heat-shrinked.
SILVER UNDERCOAT
T
he Poly-Spray silver undercoat is very heavily pigmented (aluminum powder,) and therefore only takes a couple of light coats for full coverage. With fullsize airplanes, Poly-Spray is used to protect the fabric from the sun’s UV rays. With our models, it helps get the colors right and prevents the sun from showing through the painted fabric. I use a High Volume, Low Pressure (HVLP) spray gun to apply the Poly-Spray and Poly-Tone paints. Whenever using spray paint equipment, do it in a well-ventilated work area and remove anything from your shop that you don’t want coated with overspray. Use a good-quality dust mask with removable filters and you might also want to remove your watch. I like to hang painted parts from the rafters with hooks made from stiff wire. Smaller parts can be hand-held or elevated from the worktable with cans and sprayed one side at a time. Before spraying, be sure to lightly wipe down the surfaces with a tack cloth to remove any dust.
To apply the Poly-Spray silver undercoat and the Poly-Tone paint, I use a HVLP spray gun.
MIXING TIP: Mix the Poly-Spray with reducer to thin it for spraying. Apply one part reducer for every four parts of paint. Apply a light mist coat, let it set for a minute or two, and then apply a slightly heavier coat. Go over the entire part and use just enough Poly-Spray to give a solid, smooth coat. Hang the part to dry and spray the next part. Once all the parts have been sprayed with Poly-Spray, let them dry overnight before applying the Poly-Tone paint. The Poly-Spray has aluminum power pigment and it covers quickly with only a couple of light coats.
48 ModelAirplaneNews.com
SHOOTING COLOR & MASKING
Once all the paint has been applied and has dried overnight, you can mask off the areas for the markings. I use a posted paper template to draw the shape on the wing and then mask it off for painting.
W
hen applying the Poly-Tone paint, I use a medium paint flow and airflow. If you increase the airflow too much, it makes the paint dry too quickly. After the PolySpray has dried overnight, apply your first coat of Poly-Tone paint. The rule here is to apply the lightest colors first and then apply darker colors over them. I use white as a base coat as it makes other colors applied on top of it a bit brighter. Also, I mask off the white areas for the typical WW I German markings. White Poly-Tone takes about two or three light passes to cover the silver coat completely. After spraying on the white, I let everything dry overnight. Take it one step at a time and don’t rush. When you are done painting for the evening, clean your equipment with Acetone and seal all your unused paint containers. I have extra paint cups for my spray gun, so one is always filled with Acetone and the others have paint. I allow about 20 minutes or so for the paint to set enough before I move the parts into a dust-free drying area. After the paint dries overnight, the next step is to mask off the white
Black covers very quickly and takes only a couple of light coats. Wait a couple minutes before removing the masking tape.
areas where needed and then shoot on the red Poly-Tone. I use vinyl E-Z Mask Tape from Great Planes for the outer edges of my masking and then fill it in with blue painter’s tape and drafting paper for larger areas. Again, take your time and apply each piece of tape precisely where you need it. Make sure everything is pressed down tightly against the model. You can also simply use a lot of blue tape, but paper is cheaper than tape. I also like to wash my hands before unmasking the parts. There’s nothing worse than putting a red fingerprint onto a white background (ask me how I know!). When it comes to specific markings such as national insignia and personal pilot side badges, you can start working out the details ahead of time. I like to get as many photos of the actual airplane as I can. To make properly sized patterns, I import them into a CAD program, trace them, and print them out to the scale of my model. Since most markings will be the same except for size, I simply resize the patterns and print them out. I printed out three Maltese crosses for the top and bottom wings as well as
the rudder. I use spray adhesive to bond them to some stiff poster paper, and carefully cut the patterns out. I then use these to trace the markings lightly with a pencil onto the model. I then use tape to mask off the markings and shoot on the black Poly-Tone applied with a couple of light mist coats. Black builds up quickly and requires only a few light coats. On the side of the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome’s Triplane has the rear-end view of a flying pig on one side and a red heart with clouds and blue sky on the other side. I used blue tape for masking these markings, which I applied to the white side panels masked earlier before applying the red coat. Just like the rest of the model, apply your lightest colors first and then add the darker ones on top. As always, take your time and make sure to press down the tape firmly, so it is smooth with no lifted edges. My daughter, Rebecca, hand painted on the pig with acrylic craft paints and a brush to give my model the “Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome” look.
OCTOBER 2021 49
FEATURE
BY THE MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS CREW
S P E C I F I C AT I O N S AIRCRAFT: Pitts Special S-2A CAPACITY: Two (pilot & passenger) WINGSPAN: 20 ft. LENGTH: 18 ft. 9 in. HEIGHT: 6 ft. 7 1/3 in.
PLANES WORTH MODELING
WING AREA: 125 sq. ft.
PITTS SPECIAL S-2A
MAX. TAKEOFF WEIGHT: 1,625 lb.
Classic 2-place competition biplane
D
esigned by Curtis H. Pitts in 1944, the Pitts Special was— and is—a competitive design, and it has captured countless aerobatic wins since its first flight. In the 1960s and ’70s, Pitts biplanes dominated national and world aerobatic competitions, and even today, it remains a potent and popular competition aircraft in the lower categories. First flown in 1967, the two-seater version, the Pitts Special S-2, gained its type certificate in 1971. Factory-built aircraft produced by the Aerotek Company at Afton, Wyoming, are now FAA type certified in both the Normal and Aerobatic categories. In basic configuration and construction, it is similar to the single-seat S-1 but is slightly larger in overall dimensions, and there is no commonality of components. The increased size and power, coupled with aerodynamic changes in the S-2A, give the two-seater improved aerobatic and landing characteristics, and make it extremely stable in rough air conditions. Control response is also better (the ailerons are aerodynamically balanced for higher roll rate at low speeds), and full vertical rolls can be performed with ease. The different wing airfoil sections (NACA 6400 series) used on the S-2A provide improved inverted performance and allow for outside loops. The S-2A’s structure is stressed to 9G positive, 4.5G negative.
50 ModelAirplaneNews.com
EMPTY WEIGHT: 1,150 lb.
POWERPLANT: Lycoming 200hp AEIO-360-A1A
OCTOBER 2021 51
CONSTRUCTION
THE PAIRADOX A twin free-flight design with a nod to the P-38 Lightning TEXT & PHOTOS BY PAT TRITLE
My first published article was the Scamper Jr. Free Flight pusher that appeared in the October 1971 issue of Model Airplane News. I thought it might be fun to celebrate the 50th anniversary of that monumental event in my life with a follow up design, in the same somewhat not-so-mainstream vein. A lot of models have come and gone over the years, but I’m still in search of new modeling challenges, and doing a rubber powered free flight twin seemed like it might just fit that description.
The model is covered with a combination of Esaki and domestic tissue. Trim is done with tissue, and decals.
In the air, the Pairadox climbs in a gentle right-hand turn. Minute thrust adjustments can be made to tailor the size of the circle to suit the size of your flying field.
S
cale has always been at the top of my modeling list, but with free flight, particularly in uncharted territory, I thought it wise to keep it simple. Enter the Pairadox! The design is simple, quick and easy to build, and above all, it turned out to be a terrific flyer. And much to my surprise, the Pairadox was also very easy to trim, largely due to my universally adjustable nose blocks. So, if you’re like me and would like a nice challenge with something a bit less mainstream, the Pairadox is just what the doctor ordered.
QUICK SPECS MODEL: The Pairadox DESIGNER: Pat Tritle TYPE: Free-flight twin WINGSPAN: 28.3 in.
THE MODEL The Pairadox is a 28.3-inch wingspan twin boom design with a center fuselage loosely based on the Lockheed P-38 Lightning, but without all the complexity. All of the frames are square in cross section with a single horizontal stabilizer connecting the booms, and twin rudders. The rubber “motors” are housed in the booms, and flight trimming is made easy with the adjustable nose blocks that make minute side and down thrust adjustments easy.
LENGTH: 22.125 in.
BUILDING Construction begins by making up the wing and stabilizer tips. Bowing patterns are made up using the provided patterns with the tips being laminated from 1/32 x 1/8- and 1/32 x 3/32-inch balsa. While those are drying, cut all of the shaped parts from the appropriate sizes of balsa using the provided parts patterns. Now would be a good time to make up the components for the adjustable nose blocks as well.
POWER: Double 18 in. loop of 1/8-in. tan rubber in each boom (brodak.com)
WING AREA: 105 sq. in. WEIGHT (RTF): 52.7g.
GEAR USED
PROPELLERS: Two 6-in. plastic from Peck Polymers (wind-it-up.com)
OCTOBER 2021 53
CONSTRUCTION: THE PAIRADOX
WINGS Construction begins with the center section. Pin the 1/16-inch sq. balsa lower spars in place over the plans. Glue the R1 ribs in place aligned
perpendicular to the plan, then glue the 1/8 x 1/4–inch balsa leading edge, and 1/16 x 1/8-inch trailing edge in place. Then with the center section still in place, pin the lower outer panel spars in place followed by the R2, R3, and R4 ribs. Align and glue the leading and trailing edges in place followed by the tip bows. Then prop the tips up 1 1/4-inces at the locations shown and add the 1/16-inch sq. balsa top spars. When completed, remove the wing from the board and sand to shape. TAIL FUSELAGE & BOOMS Build the vertical and horizontal stabilizers directly over the plans using the wood sizes shown. Remove from the board and sand the edges round. Make up the two center fuselage side frames over the plans using the part numbers and wood sizes shown. Join the frames with the 3/32-inch square balsa crosspieces followed by the nose and tail blocks and sand to shape. Build four boom side frames directly over the plans. Fit a B3 into all four side frames flush with the outside edge of what will then be dedicated left- and right-hand sides for each of the booms. Join the side frames with the 3/32inch square balsa to build two identical booms. Add the top and bottom 1/16inch sheeting, then when completed, sand the booms to shape. ADJUSTABLE NOSE BLOCKS Assemble NB and NB1, then fit on each boom and sand to shape. Mark the nose blocks and booms left and right hand, so they’ll be dedicated to their own individual boom. Drill the 1/4-inch center hole to the depth shown, then drill a 1/16-inch hole through on center. Align and glue NB2 in place and drill for the no. 2 x 3/8-inch retention screw. Fit the aluminum nose bushing in place followed by the adjustment link. Drill a 3/32-in. hole in each block on the inboard side for the propeller antirotation pin. Insert the aluminum tube into the hole and file flush at the front and back edges. Be sure that the pin receiver tubes are on the inboard side of 54 ModelAirplaneNews.com
The boom side frames are the same until the balsa fill is fitted flush with the outside edge of the left- and right-hand frames.
With the booms completed, the vertical and horizontal stabilizers are fitted in place to check for a good fit.
The wing is built directly over the plans beginning with the center section. Then the outer panels are built in place and blocked up to the proper dihedral angle.
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CONSTRUCTION: THE PAIRADOX
each nose block. At this point framing is done, so do a final sanding on all of the components. Next, fit the center fuselage onto the wing. If a bit of trimming is needed for a good fit, do it now before covering the frames. Check the horizontal stabilizer fit into each boom as well. When everything is trimmed and fitting nicely the model is ready for cover. COVERING The frames were given four coats of nitrate dope in preparation for covering. I used a mix of Brodak domestic, and Esaki Japanese tissue to cover the model. After the covering is in place, the tissue was water sized, (spritzed with a light mist coat of water), then given two coats of thinned nitrate dope. Colored trim was added along with decals from my plastic model scrap box.
After the wing is framed it’s lifted from the board and sanded to final shape.
The center fuselage side frames are laid out directly over the framing drawings. A minimum of shaped parts keep assembly simple.
FINAL ASSEMBLY Fit the center fuselage on the wing, align and glue in place. Slip the horizontal stabilizer into the booms and align the booms on the wing and glue in place. Then with the stabilizer in place and properly aligned, glue it in place as well. Make up the profile canopy, paint to match and glue it in place on the center fuselage. The motor pegs are cut from 1/8-inch O.D. aluminum tube and fitted into the booms. Assemble the nose blocks and preset the down thrust to about 3 degrees down and 1.5 degrees right thrust. Make up two, 20-inch loops of 1/8inch rubber and insert them into the fuselage. Wind in a couple hundred turns and allow it to unwind and take a natural set in the booms. Balance the model at the location shown on the plans to complete the model. And finally, make up the propeller anti-rotation pins per the detail drawing. An excellent source for all things rubber powered free flight is Brodak Manufacturing (brodak.com). FLYING THE PAIRADOX Test glide the model to check the center of gravity (CG). Add or remove ballast as need to get a smooth descending glide. Then wind in about 400 turns on each side and launch the model slightly nose up and right wing down with the breeze about 90 degrees off 56 ModelAirplaneNews.com
The center fuselage sides are joined using shims and squaring blocks to hold the sides in place while the cross pieces are glued in place.
After the center fuselage side frames have been joined the nose and tail blocks are glued in place and the assembly sanded to final shape.
With all of the major components completed and sanded to shape, a dry run is done to insure all of the parts align and fit properly.
The booms are completed, and the nose blocks fitted in place. The nose blocks might be a bit different, so mark each for its dedicated boom.
The tissue was applied using 4 coats of nitrate dope, then water sized and sealed with two coats of thinned nitrate. The tissue trim was also applied with dope.
The nose blocks are drilled for the anti-rotation pins. The pins are built up and tied to a common handle so they can be easily pulled together to release the props simultaneously.
Initial test flights were done using a single loop of 3/16-inch rubber. That proved to be under-powered, so the load was stepped up to a double loop of 1/8-inch to complete the trimming process.
OCTOBER 2021 57
Designed by Pat Tritle, the Pairadox is a twin-boom free-flight design influenced by the Lockheed P-38 Lightning. Featuring easy to build and cover “stick and tissue” construction, the full-size plans include show all the parts and callout the materials needed to build this fun and easy to fly design. WS: 28.3 in.; L: 22.125 in.; Weight (RTF): 52.7g.; Power: Two 18- to 20 in. loops of 1/8 in. tan rubber; LD: 2; 1 sheet; $16.95
X1021A | The Pairadox
CONSTRUCTION: THE PAIRADOX
58 ModelAirplaneNews.com
The universally adjustable nose blocks allow minute trim adjustments for precise trimming without the use of unsightly shims.
the right wing. It should start up in a gentle ascending right-hand pattern. If not, adjust the down and right thrust as needed. Then with each subsequent flight, add a couple hundred turns in the rubber and adjust the down and side thrust as needed to get a good circling climb. Fine thrust angle adjustments can be made on only one side to trim for optimal climb. In the end, my model ended up with just about equal down thrust, and just a bit more right thrust on the right-hand side. Once trimmed, the model maintains about a 100-foot right hand circling climb. And with about a thousand turns on the motors it will deliver consistent 35- to 40-second flights. So, if you’ve never tried a twin-motor free-flight model, the Pairadox might be a great place to start. The model is easy to build, easy to trim, and is a good stable flyer. And as an added bonus, it’ll really stand out from the crowd at your local flying field.
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OCTOBER 2021 59
LET’S TALK
GIANT SCALE
TEXT & PHOTOS BY JOHN GLEZILLES
Many aircraft on the market today offer opportunities for maximum power by modifying them for canister mufflers.
MAKING MODIFICATIONS Installing canister mufflers
60 ModelAirplaneNews.com
W
hen I finished up my 40% Thunder Tiger Extra 260. I decided to use the Desert Aircraft DA-170 engine for this model, and for added performance, I chose the included KS 1090 tuned pipes. If you are new to the world of giantscale aerobatic models, I strongly urge you to look at different exhaust types that your engine manufacturer recommends. For Desert Aircraft (or similar) engines, many options exist. Personally, I love the KS 1090 pipes for both the DA-150 and DA-170 engines. Since the Thunder Tiger Extra 260 is designed for the use of canister exhaust and mufflers, I will show you how I installed my internal tuned exhaust and how to seal off the tuned-pipe area from the rest of the fuselage interior. Since the Extra 260 is designed for both muffler and canister use, it already has a pipe tunnel installed to accept exhaust canisters. Due to the fact that I installed tuned pipes, I needed to make a few modifications. ENGINE AND HEADERS Before you begin your exhaust tunnel modification, you must first install the engine and the exhaust headers so you can properly determine the length of the final pipe tunnel. On this airplane, you have to install the firewall. After I determined where the firewall would be positioned on the engine box, I aligned it so there was no up or down engine thrust. I also built in a slight amount of right thrust and used 30-minute epoxy to glue the firewall in place. For additional support, I also glued spruce triangular stock behind the firewall. When it comes time to bolt the engine in place, remember, always measure twice and take your time! This airplane has a two-piece engine cowl that’s split into an upper and lower half. The halves are joined together using 4-40 bolts, lite-ply blocks and 4-40 T-nuts, and the rear portion of the cowl has a ring that is factoryinstalled and drilled to bolt onto the fuselage. To properly install
Installing an internal exhaust system is a common airframe modification.
As you can see, the KS 1090 tuned pipe is much longer than your typical canister for both the DA 150 and 170 engine.
HERE ARE THE TOOLS NEEDED FOR THIS MODIFICATION: Hobby knife Sanding block with 80-grit sandpaper Cardstock paper Pencil Graph paper 1⁄8-inch lite-ply Adhesives
OCTOBER 2021 61
LET’S TALK GIANT SCALE: MAKING MODIFICATIONS
POWER BOOST!
dding a tuned exhaust system (a tuned pipe) is a great way to add power. Always remember to install the pipe as indicated in the instructions and be sure to use a tuned pipe that’s specific to the engine you’re running. With the DA-170 powering my Thunder Tiger Extra 260, the KS 1090 tuned pipes brought the engine’s top-end rpm from 6000 to 6500. But this is with my relatively new engine. I expect that the power boost will increase over time as the engine becomes more broken in.
A
The pipe mount has been secured in place. Take notice of the shape. The half-moon shapes are so that each pipe can rest on the mount and be spaced from the mount using fuel tubing. Also, the top of the pipe will be secured in place using a heavy-duty spring.
A close-up of the pipe mount and specifically, the method I used to secure the fuel tubing in place. I simply drilled it out and secured it using 4-40 bolts, washers and lock-nuts.
the engine, bolt the bottom half of the cowling in place and then use it as a reference. Then, when the engine is in the correct position (with the spinner back-plate on the engine shaft for guidance), secure it using wood screws. Once you’re satisfied everything is in proper alignment, mark the engine attachment bolt locations and install the engine using 1⁄4-20 bolts, blind nuts, etc. Now attach the exhaust headers to the engine so you can work on the pipe tunnel. THE TUNNEL While this may appear to be a rather tedious step, the hard work has been done for you as the main tunnel has already been installed. All you need to 62 ModelAirplaneNews.com
The access hatch has been cut to shape and is ready to be drilled. This hatch will be secured in place using four servo screws.
LET’S TALK GIANT SCALE: MAKING MODIFICATIONS do is extend it, make an access hatch, make attachment points to secure the pipes and angle the rear portion of the tunnel so cooling air flow can exit smoothly out of the model. Using care, remove the angled back portion of the tunnel without damaging the tunnel sides. Measure the lengths of the tuned pipes and determine how long the tunnel extension needs to be.
Use cardstock paper and/or graph paper to make a template of the new tunnel sides. Now cut out the two tunnel sides from 1⁄8-inch lite-ply and glue them to the existing tunnel with CA glue. Be sure to reinforce the joints with more lite-ply to add strength. For the Extra 260, I glued a piece of 1⁄4-inch square spruce stock on the bottom of the model and made the pipe
The access hatch has been removed to reveal the tunnel pipes. Silicone tubing has been installed over the spring.
Here, the KS 1090 Tuned Pipes have been installed. As you can see, a heavy-duty spring holds each pipe in place. 64 ModelAirplaneNews.com
mount out of 1⁄8-inch lite-ply with two half-moon cutouts to support the pipes. I then bolted large pieces of fuel tubing on the mount to isolate the tuned pipes from the supports. I attached plastic clevises on the ends of the half-moon cutouts so I could attach mounting springs to secure the tuned pipes in place. Only one support point is needed for each tuned pipe. This allows the tuned pipes some movement and also helped to relieve stress on the headers, which could cause the headers to break. You must be able to access these mounting springs when you need to remove the exhaust system. I made a removable hatch on the top of the tunnel. The hatch is 1⁄8-inch lite-ply and has 1⁄4-inch square spruce stock outlining the hatch perimeter. The hatch cover is secured with four corner screws. I used 1⁄8-inch lite-ply to cap the top of the pipe tunnel and the angled rear portion to deflect air flow outside of the aircraft. I fuel-proofed the interior of the tunnel with Pacer Z-Poxy finishing resin. RADIO GEAR Depending on your particular model, you may have to move any radio equipment around within your airframe to clear the tunnel. In the Extra 260, the rudder tray was preinstalled to use multiple “pull-pull” rudder servos, but because of the tunnel location, I decided to install my rudder servos in the tail and use direct control to clean up the inside of the airplane. Before making any modifications, take notice of any comments regarding balance and tail heaviness in the instructions of your model. You can always compromise and use different servo installations in the tail for rudder control. If you want to use different equipment than what the aircraft manufacturer recommends, modifications are necessary. Extending a factory-installed exhaust/pipe tunnel is a fairly easy task and keeping it sealed from the rest of the fuselage interior is very important. Don’t be hesitant if you need to make a change to your aircraft. Just be sure to think things out ahead of time and as the old saying goes, “measure twice, cut once!”
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A Tale of Two MiG-17s A monster model meets its inspiration at Jets Over Kentucky T
he rolling hills of Kentucky were a great, thunderous place to be in July 2021 at the Jets Over Kentucky event, when two magnificent MiG-17s were together for the first time at Taylor County Airport. One MiG-17 was full-size, and the other was scale. Andreas Geitz’s monster 1/3.7-scale MiG-17 is a masterpiece, and he flies it true to scale. This CARF Models jet is huge, loud, and commands the sky. The details on the build are very intricate. One of the interesting features of the scale, 9-foot-long MiG-17 is that the color scheme can be applied in the mold, which makes it easier and faster to complete the build. The scale MiG-17 has a nose camera like the fullsize MiG-17 had to photograph kills by Russian pilots. If the pilots did not make enough kills, they were replaced. Andreas’ all-composite, 55-pound model is powered by a KingTech 235 G4 turbine engine. Bill Culberson owns the full-size, 36foot, 5-inch-long MiG-17 that the scale MiG-17 was modeled after. To see both together was a unique thrill. Bill supplied thousands of photographs to Andreas for the project and told him that if he ever made a large-scale MiG-17, he would order one (which he did). Bill is an amazing pilot of both full-size and RC and thrills fans all over the world with his piloting skills and full-size aircraft collection.
Scale MiG-17 in front of taxiing full-size MiG-17.
There was hope that the two MiG-17s would fly at the same time, however, the FAA had prohibited simultaneous full scale and RC aircraft flights at this airport The weather also made the short runway too wet to safely guarantee that the full-size MiG-17’s tires would be able to stop it before approaching the end of the runway. The bigger MiG did fly two days earlier, and it was a sight to see and hear. The jet engine is so powerful the ground shakes and it makes this growling ethereal sound taxying down the runway. When it flew by with the afterburners on, flames were shooting out the back and the sound was as loud or louder than thunder. The flames were caused by the afterburner dumping fuel into the hot exhaust gases to give more thrust. Thank you to Andreas Geitz and Bill Culberson for making this meeting of two MiG-17s a reality.
CARF Models 1/3.7-scale MiG-17.
66 ModelAirplaneNews.com
3- Andreas Geitz with his new 1/3.7 scale MiG-17.
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