TRENDBOOK FLORA VAN DEN BERG by Flora van den Berg

TRENDBOOK

INTERCONNECTABILITY

OFF THE GRID

HOLISTIC HEALTH

FLORA VAN DEN BERG B1Ei

01 03

introduction

table of contents

TABLE OF CONTENTS

06 22 34 47 49 sourcelist

conclusion

holistic health

off the grid

interconnectability

INTRODUCTION What exactly is a trend? Martin Raymond defines a trend in his Trendforecasters Handbook as “the direction in which something tends to move, and which has a consequential impact on the culture, society or business sector through which it moves”. So a trend is something that keeps on developing, a movement, not just a still-standing fact of life. On this definition of a trend I have based my research. When looking at the different trends of the moment I have constantly taken the factor of movement into account. Many trends have been there for many years, sometimes even decades, but there’s always a few new developments that show the direction its moving in. 03

Without having started my research, I realised I had, unconsciously, already picked up on many things. Thanks to news articles that appear on my Facebook timeline when I’m in the train, the photos that I scroll past on Instagram in my lunch break, or a conversation with the friend that suddenly stops using social media because of privacy issues, I had made some connections that I wasn’t even aware of. But when thinking about them, I was able to connect the dots and pinpoint some current trends. Unfortunately when it comes to trend research you cannot base your conclusions on a ‘hunch’, even though mister Raymond believes that intuition is an important part of trend research, proof is always needed. Walking around Amsterdam en Utrecht confirmed my intuition, although it was hard to pick up on new trends, as many new things are happening online or behind closed doors. Therefore my method of research was a combination of online and offline research, with a focus on online, as that’s where there’s the latest information about where exactly the magic happens.

What is the purpose of this trendbook? Firstly, it will be the starting point of a brand. A brand that will be sustainable, a brand that could last at least a few decades. That’s why it’s important to see what’s happening now and in which direction it’s all going. How else could you build a brand that is made to last, when you don’t have the slightest clue of what might happen in the future? And secondly, to me this book has a purpose that stretches beyond this project. I think knowing what is happening in the world, not only in fashion, but also in politics, technology, society and all other industries, is the basis for every brander. If you don’t know which cultural influences are playing a part in your target group, how will you be able to truly speak to them as a brand? I believe it is impossible. Which also fuels my personal motivation. As a person I have always been interested in what is going on in the world and also what is going to happen. History has fascinated me, as it shows a certain movement throughout the centuries that can tell us a lot about the future. Consciously I have never known it, but I feel that trendforecasting is something that fascinates me intrinsically, and may perhaps be something I have, on different levels, always been doing. I hope that my passion comes across in this trendbook.

INTERCONNECTABILITY

THE TREND OF INTERCONNECTABILITY IS MADE UP OUT OF VARIOUS STATEMENTS. STARTING WITH THE FIRST; EVERYTHING IS CONNECTED. FROM OUR SMARTPHONES CONNECTING WITH OUR TVS, TO OUR WEARABLES CONNECTING WITH OUR SOCIAL MEDIA: EVERYTHING CAN BE CONNECTED TODAY. WITH THE INCREASE OF INTERNET OF THINGS-PRODUCTS, SUCH AS A TOOTHBRUSH THAT HAS ITS OWN APP, MORE AND MORE OF OUR DAILY USE PRODUCTS CAN BE CONNECTED, AND IT WON’T BE LONG UNTIL EVEN OUR BODIES WILL BE CONNECTED TOO. TRANSHUMANISTS ENHACE THEIR BODIES TO BECOME CLOSER TO A CYBORG, WITH ALL THE ADDITIONAL ADVANTAGES, LIKE MORE STRENGTH, DURABILITY AND PERHAPS THE EXTRA PLEASURING OF A WOMAN. SPEAKING OF PLEASURING, OUR RELATIONSHIPS WITH ROBOTS AND AI ARE BECOMING MORE AND MORE AFFECTIONATE. NO WONDER THAT FILMS LIKE ‘HER’ AND ‘EX MACHINA’ ARE SO POPULAR.

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THE DOWNSIDE OF ALL THIS CONNECTABILITY IS THE SECOND STATEMENT; EVERYTHING IS HACKABLE. LOOKING AT WHAT HAPPENED WITH WIKILEAKS IT ISN’T HARD TO IMAGINE THAT NOT A GOVERNMENT, BUT ITS CITIZENS ARE NEXT. IT ISN’T HARD TO IMAGINE AT ALL, AS BECAUSE OF WIKILEAKS WE ALL KNOW THAT OUR EVERY MOVE CAN BE TRACKED.

WHICH BRINGS US TO THE THIRD STATEMENT; EVERYBODY KNOWS EVERYTHING. THANKS TO OUR OWN NEVERENDING PROMOTION OF THE SELF ONLINE, IT ISN’T THAT HARD TO FIND ANYTHING YOU WOULD WANT TO KNOW ABOUT SOMEONE IN JUST ONE GOOGLE SEARCH.AND BECAUSE OF VLOGGING WE KNOW WHAT PEOPLE LOOK LIKE WHEN THEY WAKE UP, WHAT THEIR HOUSE LOOKS LIKE, SOMETIMES EVEN WHERE THEY LIVE, WHERE THEY GO TO SCHOOL, WHAT THEY HAVE FOR BREAKFAST; IT’S A STALKER’S DREAM. ALL OF THIS FRANKNESS ON THE WEB LEADS TO A CERTAIN SOCIAL CONTROL; WEBSITES SUCH AS REDDIT AND DUMPERT (NL) THRIVE ON THE NOTION OF SOCIAL MISCONDUCT. EXPOSING PERPETRATORS IS THEIR BIRTHRIGHT. BUT THAT ALSO LEADS TO OUR FOURTH STATEMENT; THE END OF PRIVACY IS NEAR. IF YOU HAVE TO HAND OVER THE PASSWORDS TO YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA WHEN ENTERING A COUNTRY, HOW MUCH PRIVACY DO WE HAVE LEFT? A BETTER QUESTION WOULD PROBABLY BE: DO WE EVEN HAVE PRIVACY LEFT? THE GOVERNMENT IS ALLOWED TO HACK INTO OUR PHONECALLS WHENEVER THEY MAY HAVE THE SLIGHTEST IDEAS THAT WE ARE INVOLVED IN SOME SORT OF TERRORIST ACTION, AND IF WE MAKE THE MISTAKE AS A TEENAGER TO STEAL FROM A CORNERSHOP, WE’RE SHAMED ON SOCIAL MEDIA UNTIL THE END OF TIMES. IS THAT WHAT WE WANT? DO WE WANT TRUE TRANSPARENCY? WE MAY BE IN THE LAST DAYS OF THE ECONOMIC CRISIS, YET NO ONE WILL FORGET WHAT HAPPENED BEHIND CLOSED DOORS. PERHAPS TRANSPARENCY IN EVERY ASPECT OF LIFE IS WHAT WE WANT, AND NEED.

HOW

In which developments can we see that interconnectability is a big deal at the moment? The actualisation of Internet of Things for instance. More and more products can be connected to the internet, for example toothbrushes, and thermostats, plus; who doesn’t own a smart TV right now? Even our clothes are becoming ‘smart’; Levi’s and Google will be launching an interactive denim jacket, which has touch-sensitive panels on its sleeves that can be used to control electronic devices. The jacket is set for release this spring (1). There’s also jewellery for sale that can be connected to our smartphones. Brands such as ElectricFoxy and Vinaya create aesthetically pleasing, communicating wearables that give us the information we need, without interrupting our days. The only thing in our way to true interconnectability with our products and accessories, is the fact that there’s not wireless internet everywhere yet. According to TechCrunch (2) the next step in IoT is full wirelessness, and that is exactly what many researchers are working on. The most promising of wireless technology power technology would be radio frequency, according to the article. Other new developments that show us how far we are in our interconnectability, are for example the gelatinous smartphone. The phone, created by Philippe Starck and Jerome Olivet (3) is a mere concept at the moment, but shows what the future could hold for us: holograms, voice control. Actually, not that much of a futuristic image. Holograms are quite actual at the moment. A true nanotech breakthrough brings us a step closer to real holograms. With transparent rods that are 500 times thinner than a human hair, free floating 3D images are within our reach (4). Windows Holographic is already showing us the possibilities of holograms (image 2, p. 12): working from anywhere, yet together in one space.

1. Howarth, D., 2016, Google teams up with Levi’s to create interactive denim jacket. From: https://www.dezeen.com/2016/05/26/google-project-jacquard-l evis-commuter-jacket-interactive-denim-smart-fabric-garment-urban-cycling/ 2. Rueckert, R., 2017, Actualizing the Internet of Things all starts with wireless. From: https://techcrunch.com/2017/01/31/actualizing-the-internet-of-things-allstarts-with-wireless/ 3. Aouf, R.S., 2017, Philippe Starck and Jerome Olivet present gelatinous vision for future smartphone. From: https://www.dezeen.com/2017/01/26/ philippe-starck-jerome-olivet-design-gelatinous-vision-future-alo-smartphone-technology-voice-control/ 4. McDonald, G., 2017, A nanotech breakthrough could generate true holograms. From: http://www.seeker.com/a-nanotech-breakthrough-could-gener ate-true-holograms-2218811574.html

But what would true interconnectability mean? Perhaps that even we, ourselves, are connected to the internet. We have entered the era of transhumanism; “The idea that we can use technology to transcend the limitations of the human brain, body and reproduction”, is the definition given by sociologist and bioethicist James Hughes (5). Implants that enhance us and connect us at the same time with the rest of the world. Making a call with just your fingertips isn’t that sci-fi of an idea anymore. We, humans, need to become cyborgs, a.k.a. transhumans, to survive in the future, according to Tesla founder Elon Musk (6). But it doesn’t stop there. We are even opening up to the idea of having intimate relations with a non-human object like a robot. “Sex with robots is just around the corner”, said artificial intelligence expert David Levy at the International Congress on Love and Sex with Robots at Goldsmiths, University of London (7). Our growing affection towards robots is even transcending to fashion. In their Spring/Summer 2017 show Chanel sent models down the runway wearing robotlike headgear. But all of this has its downside too. The consequence of interconnectability is transparency. When everyone is constantly connected to the internet, our every move is recorded, and everything can be hacked into, how much of our privacy is left? Not much apparently. Many news outlets came out with the news at the beginning of February that the United States of America is planning to demand social media passwords from immigrants from the seven Muslim-majority countries: Iraq, Iran, Syria, Yemen, Somalia, Sudan and Libya (8). Is that what will happen? An extremely thorough search offline and online, when arriving at a border?

5. MedicalExpo, 2017, Transhumanism: Repairing and Improving the Human. From: http://emag.medicalexpo.com/ 6. Aouf, R.S., 2017, Humans need to become cyborgs to survive, says Elon Musk. From: https://www.dezeen.com/2017/02/15/elon-musk-humans-be come-cyborgs-survive-artificial-intelligence-technology-news/ 7. AFP, 2016, Sex and marriage with robots: science fiction or new reality? From: http://www.nation.co.ke/lifestyle/Sex-and-marriage-with-robots-sciencefiction-or-new-reality/1190-3496474-10v5sce/ 8. Coldewey, D., 2017, Passwords for social media accounts could be required for some to enter the country. From: https://techcrunch.com/2017/02/08/ passwords-for-social-media-accounts-could-be-required-for-some-to-enter-country/

3. Communicating through or accessories isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t something of the future anymore. Companies such as ElectricFoxy show us we can fashionable whilst remaining in contact with our friends.

12 1. Google Chromecast is one of the most well know examples of the Internet of Things. Via the USB-stick one can connect their smartphone or laptop to the television.

2. Windows Holographic opens up an entirely new world of possibilities when it comes to working together. The image above is a screengrab of the promotion video of Holographic, which shows how mixed reality can make collaborating from different locations work.

4. Our growing affection towards AI and robots has its effect on fashion. In Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring/Summer 2017 show, the models could be seen wearing robot-like headgear.

The question that remains is why is all of this happening now? Let’s start with the most obvious reason: the evolution of technology. Thanks to the relationship we have with our smartphones we have become used to having something that is constantly connected to the internet very near. Many of us even harbour wam feelings for our phones, and feel separation anxiety when it’s not in our direct environment. Going from there to a relationship with AI, a robot for instance, isn’t such a big leap. The fact that we have grown more and more affectionate towards our technology, and perhaps our wish to be a part of it, explains a large part of the interconnectability trend.

Another factor that should be taken into account is the war on terrorism. Our privacy is being restricted for ‘our own safety’. The NSA listening in on our calls, and the USA border patrol demanding our social media passwords: they’re all means to an end, namely to protect us. Also the crash of the banks and the resulting financial crisis have made people craving more transparency. Many feel like a lot is still going on behind closed doors, issues that apply to all of us, yet we only get presented with the bill. So the transparency will not only be on our side, the side of the citizens, we also demand it from our governments.

FUTURE

How will the interconnectability trend develop in the future? Of course we can never say for sure, but what we can expect is that society will become more transparent thanks to interconnectability. More and more of our information will be stored in online databases and will be able to retrieve by anyone, anytime, anywhere. For instance, it can be very helpful to know one’s medical information in a second. When someone collapses in the street, it might be handy to have an app that reads out that person’s medical history. It could save lives. And with the ‘it could save lives’ argument we can make every piece of information accessible. The internet will become completely open source, where no passwords are needed. Why would you? They’re hackable anyway. We will be able to work from anywhere, with anyone, because we work together in 3D, mixed reality offices, where our holograms have meetings.

Expected also is that our relationships with AI and robots will become normal, and that turning ourselves into part robot, part man (transhumanism) will be common. Marriages between humans and robots will be celebrated, instead of frowned upon, and perhaps even children will be genetically enhanced, even before birth, creating superhuman cyborgs. The future of interconnectability might feel like science fiction for some right now, but we’re closer than it may seem.

OFF THE GRID

What does the ‘off the grid’-trend stand for? well, there are a few layers to it. the first layer is the digital nomadism: (mainly) millennials working and living abroad, on a permanent location, or just travelling every few months. they realised that they didn’t need to be at an office for the work they do, and now work from a slightly more comfortable location, such as a sunny beach, or a buzzing cosmopolitan. Others go off the grid from the comfort of their own home: they go on a social media detox. by deleting their accounts they hope to ban the constant stress and performance anxiety of the perfectly curated world that is social media. Some return to the platforms after their detox, others prefer their life without.

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Then there’s also the group that goes completely off the grid. They move abroad, have no internet, and rely completely on self-sufficiency. they live in tiny houses or pods that get their energy from wind- and/or solar-power. The clothes they wear are mainly functional and need to be adjustable to different weather conditions. Something that has its obvious effect on fashion. de25 signers such as Stella mccartney, givenchy and maison margiela showed utilitarian garments. Because living off the grid usually means lean & minimalistic living. A part of the off the grid trend that is big right now too. readers are en masse buying into the minimalistic lifestyle, with books such as ‘stuffocation’ by james wallman, and ‘the life-changing magic of tidying up’ by marie kondo. and When something breaks, it is of utter concern that it gets replaced immediately. with new technologies, such as 3D -printing and spray-on fabric, it isn’t hard to imagine that it won’t be long before they can fix anything. Survivalism is often linked to the off the grid-trend. learning how to take care of yourself in nature are basic skills to many, but to us westerners they look like complete magic. we feel like we’re not owning up to our basic human instincts and hang on every word survivalism-expert Bear Grylls says. we want to go back to nature, something that can be seen in fashion too. kenzo had camouflage print in their Spring/ Summer 2017 show, and even high street brands like zara and h&m have embraced the camouflage look.

HOW

The off the grid-trend begins with freelancers. According to Forbes, now is the best time to become a freelancer, because freelancers are in demand at the moment. Other good reasons to become a freelancer named are that you don’t have to commit, and the fact that job security is a dying breed (1). Freelancers also need to work from somewhere, and thanks to the technological evolution, it is not necessary to actually be present in the office anymore. Cue co-working spaces. In many big cities in the Netherlands co-working spaces bring likeminded workers together. Take for instance Hashtag Workmode, a co-working space company located in Amsterdam and Rotterdam. Here female entrepreneurs, with a specification in online business, work together on their own projects (image 7, p. 28). For some freelancers it isn’t necessary to work in the same country as their company anymore and pack their bags to become a digital nomad. Digital nomadism has become increasingly popular over the last years. On social media you can find many enviable images of digital nomads with their laptops on a beach halfway across the world. According to an article in the Dutch newspaper Het Financieele Dagblad, has the nomadic way of living a positive impact on efficiency: “In the Netherlands I usually have a lot of to-do-lists laying around, yet when I travel I do those things right away. Because I have to make conscious choices throughout the day, about where I work, where I do my laundry, and where I eat, I work much more conscious, and thus more efficient” (2). The hotel industry have adapted to this new trend in working too. Many working/living hotels have been popping up all over the world. CNN writes: “A handful of hotels have answered the call for ‘bleisure’ travel - offering business-meets-leisure experiences that emphasize thoughtful technology, well-designed communal spaces, and networking opportunities” (3). There are even two of those hotels situated near AMFI; Zoku (image 8, p. 28) and the Volkshotel. For others, that are not so over the moon by the thought of being able to be connected anytime, anywhere, might opt for the social media detox. Many media outlets and blogs write about personal experiences with the social media detox, and some praise its positive effects. Singer Ed Sheeran is one of the celebrities that has quit social media and may never return (4). “It’s such a toxic wasteland”, he claims in an interview with The Daily Telegraph.

1. Muhammed, A., 2017, Why now is the best time ever to become a freelancer. From: https://www.forbes.com/sites/abdullahimuhammed/2017/01/31/whynow-is-the-best-time-ever-to-become-a-freelancer/#282b599c7b32 2. Bucker Andreae, M., 2017, De wereld als kantoor. From: https://fd.nl/fd-persoonlijk/1183401/hoe-word-je-een-digital-nomad-pro-s-vertellen 3. Springer, K., 2017, Smart hotels for digital nomads. From: http://edition.cnn.com/2017/02/13/hotels/smart-hotels-digital-nomads/ 4. Adams, C., 2017, Singer Ed Sheeran slams social media. From: http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/entertainment/sydney-confidential/singer-ed-sheeran-slamssocial-media-its-such-a-toxic-wasteland/news-story/419abf5fd410706b4b5e88983f6b7391

And whilst quitting social media may already be rigorous to some, others don’t find it rigorous enough: they go off the grid completely. Moving abroad, to live in a more nature-friendly environment and engage in a more minimalistic lifestyle. The ‘off the grid’-lifestyle has increased in popularity over the years (5). The tiny house-movement has contributed to that. TV shows like ‘Tiny House, Big Living’ and ‘Tiny House Nation’ showed the masses how comfortable a small space can be (6). Newly designed living pods are an even more attractive and comfortable option, for people who would want to go off grid. Take, for instance, the EcoCapsule (image 11, p. 30), a beautifully designed, self-sustaining pod, which has the comfort of a hotel room. The downside of tiny living, is that there is a necessity of living absolutely minimalistic. But even for people who do not live in a small space, minimalism is a trend; simply look at the succes of bestsellers ‘Stuffocation’ by James Wallman, and ‘The life-changing magic of tidying up’ by Marie Kondo. Also, self-sufficient living, a part of the ‘off the grid’-trend, is becoming more of a reality for people who don’t want to go back to nature completely. Design studios such as the Danish EFFEKT create beautiful self-sufficient living projects, or even villages, that can produce all their own food and energy (7). Survivalism goes hand-in-hand with the ‘off the grid’-trend. Ultimate survivalist Bear Grylls knows how to inspire nations to go back into nature, and even football-teams are following his tactics (8). The survivalism part of the trend can also be seen in fashion: Camouflage prints were aplenty in many a Spring/Summer 2017 runway show, and the trend has reached the high street already (image 9, p. 29). Survivalism and self-sufficiency are at the base of the ‘off the grid’-trend and new technology DIY-solutions contribute to that. 3D-printing is becoming more and more accessible, for instance (9) (image 12, p. 30). A perfect way to replace or fix broken parts, when by yourself in the woods. Or take FabriCan (image 10, p. 30), an easy way to cover a wound. Utility and DIY was seen on the runway too. Many designers, such as Givenchy, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney, showed functional and utilitarian garments from durable materials in their Spring/Summer 2017 shows. The ‘off the grid’-trend influences many industries. 5. Platt, J., 2012, Why more people are choosing to live life unplugged. From: http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/responsible-living/stories/going-off-the-grid-whymore-people-are-choosing-to-live-life-un 6. Kulp, /k., 2017, Tiny houses grow in popularity, yet drawbacks abound. From: http://www.cnbc.com/2017/02/02/tiny-houses-grow-in-popularity-yet-draw backs-abound.html 7. Frearson, A., 2016, EFFEKT designs ReGen Villages that could produce all their own food and energy. From: https://www.dezeen.com/2016/05/20/effekt-de signs-regen-villages-produce-own-food-energy-danish-pavilion-venice-architecture-biennale-2016/ 8. Tanner, R., 2017, David Wagner credits ‘Bear Grylls’ style pre-season for Huddersfield’s success this season. From: http://www.express.co.uk/sport/foot ball/768869/Huddersfield-David-Wagner-FA-Cup-Bear-Grylls-training-Pep-Guardiola-Manchester-City 9. Horsey, J., 2017, Makness 3D printer designed for the home. From: http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/makness-3d-printer-13-02-2017/

6. Many millennials escape the daily grind of big offices and work from a location that is a bit more comfortable.

7. Other freelancers and entrepreneurs look for inspiration in a co-workingspace with likeminded people. For example like the female entrepreneurs at Hashtag Workmode, Amsterdam.

8. The increase of freelancers that travel the world, the so-called digital nomads, has a great effect on the hospitality industry. Live/workspaces such as Zoku pop up everywhere around the globe.

9. The modern escapism and survivalism have influenced fashion greatly. Many fashion houses have showed nomadic and utility-inspired garments at their Spring/Summer 2017 shows. Pictured above is a camouflage parka from Zara.

10. FabriCanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spray-on fabric has many applications. It can be used for fashionable, medical and hygienic purposes. The spray-on fabric is ideal when thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no hospital nearby and a wound needs to be protected from bacteria. A perfect solution for every nomad who really wants to go off the grid.

11. Living self-sufficiently off the grid has never been made easier. The EcoCapsule is solar- and windpowered and has the comfort of a hotelroom.

12. 3D-printing is becoming more and more accessible with the arrival of 3D-printshops such as MakerPoint. For only 5 euro per hour you can print anything.

The ‘off the grid’-trend is partly a reaction to the interconnectability-movement. Many do not like the extreme transparency and social control of our super-connected society and want to escape. This escapism has many roots. The imminent danger of political leaders for instance. At the time of writing Donald Trump is the president of the United States of America, and Geert Wilders is doing rather well in the election polls in the Netherlands. The popularity of extreme right-winged politicians has increased as the financial crisis and terrorism have induced dissatisfaction and fear into the people. Some feel like they’re not safe anymore, and don’t feel 31 good about what’s happening in society. Another reason for the rise in popularity of the ‘off the grid’-lifestyle is a financial one: house prices are skyrocketing, thus making it very difficult for young professionals to rent or buy a house. If location isn’t binding, then why would they stay in the big cities, where they could put their salary towards rent almost instantly, whilst they could live wherever they would want, with only a third of the costs? And finally, the last reason is an intrinsic one. There is a large group that doesn’t feel connected to the self anymore, completely cut off of their primal feelings, of what their inner self tells them to do and feel. That’s not only where a part of the roots of the ‘off the grid’-trend lay, but also of the next trend’s.

FUTURE

In which direction is the ‘off the grid’-trend moving? looking at the situation right now, expected is that the different levels of the trend will become more extreme. currently there aren’t many people that are living completely off the grid, without any connection to the western world. yet in the future it can be imagined that there will be entire communities that will be living a self-sufficient lifestyle, truly off the grid. When it purely comes to the self-sufficient part of the ‘off the grid’-trend there are a lot of developments coming our way that are inevitable. More and more households will provide for their own energy and food, and it won’t be surprising when communities just like the one danish design studio effekt designed, will become a reality.

on a professional level we can foresee that digital nomadism will only increase in popularity, resulting in a standard of working in which no worker is bound to location and is free to work wherever and whenever they would like to, apart from certain professions, such as firemen, policemen et cetera, for obvious reasons. other jobs will be taken over by robots

HOLISTIC HEALTH

the trend of holistic health, what does that entail? simply said, it’s focused on the connection between physical, mental and spiritual health. the physical part of the holy trinity goes deeper than just focusing on the body: it’s about the connection to the soul, and even deeper, it’s about the connection to the earth. what effects do our actions towards physical health have on the earth? what does it do to our animals? to our land? to our resources? that’s what the first part of the trend is based on.

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the second layer focuses on mental health and its link to spirituality. the rise in popularity of meditation and yoga does not come out of the blue. both yoga and meditation decrease stress, anxiety and depression; disorders we are troubled by more than ever in our modern western society. technology makes it easier for us to digest; meditation apps and stillness wearables are being launched by the dozens, and are greeted with open arms.

also focusing on the connection between mental and spiritual health is the trend of microdosing. not only 37 drug-loving millennials are excIted to try using a small dose of hallucogenics to increase their happiness, focus and creativity on a daily basis. 40-something writers are enjoying the effects of little bits of LSD a day too. Millennials are looking for bliss in hallucogenics on many more occassions. ayahuasca-rituals in peru are booming right now. it is known that in the age between 20 and 30, existential questions may rise, and that some people of that age have gone through quite a bit of trauma in their short lives already. only a few decades ago, you would either not talk about the issues you were dealing with inside, or in the rare case that the before mentioned issues would obstruct your everyday life, you would go and see a therapist. now all you need to get your ducks in a row, is to pack a large backpack, hike into the hills of peru and drink a bitter concoction called ayahuasca. Even fashion is inspired by the connection of the holy trinity of body, mind and soul. for instance, whilst looking Looking at the Spring/Summer 2017 show of rick owens, it isn’t hard to figure out where his inspirations came from with his flowy, draped garments that resemble the draped cloths that Buddhist monks wear.

13. Nothing is sexier than happiness and health, according to Undisputed Living, a concept focusing on the combination of physical, mental and emotional vitality. This is there location in Hilversum.

14. Not only intrinsic energies are applied to improve ones health, also external health-makers are used. For instance natural vitamins, which apparently sell so well, that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an entire store dedicated to them.

15. 2016 has seen a massive rise in the popularity of veganism. Many blogs are dedicated to the lifestyle of avoiding animal products, and now also restaurants are following, like for instance vegan restaurant Beter & Leuk.

16. Spiritual health has become just as important as our physical and mental health over the past years. Companies such as Dutch cosmetics brand Rituals have responded to this movement.

HOW

How do we know that the ‘holistic health’-trend is booming right now? Well, first of all, the increasing popularity in veganism proves that we are, more than ever, focused on what we put into our bodies and what effect that has on the environment. Reasons for the growing community of vegans mentioned in an article in The Guardian are mainly the fate of animals, health benefits, and environmental issues (1). Many become inspired by Instagram influencers or Youtubers to start trying the vegan lifestyle and decide to stick with it when learning more and more about veganism. But not only a more soul-friendly diet is important for one’s health anymore, the mental aspects of health are equally important. Apps focusing on meditation and a moment for reflection are very popular. One of the Dutch brands that has responded to this growing trend of mental health is Rituals. They have launched a feature within their app that provides the users with three types of guided meditations and yoga instruction videos, for a moment of silence and focus on the breath (image 16, p. 41). Not only do we find stillness through our phones, we find it through our wearables too. In November 2016 London based design studio Vinaya presented Altruis X: a smart accessory that can help us to live more mindfully, with the addition of thoroughly researched apps that can help build a consistent mindfulness practice (2).

1. Marsh, S., 2016, The rise of vegan teenagers: ‘More people are into it because of Instagram’. From: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/may/27/ the-rise-of-vegan-teenagers-more-people-are-into-it-because-of-instagram 2. Vinaya, 2016, Altruis X: Finding stillness in the city. From: https://www.vinaya.com/blog/altruis-x-finding-stillness-in-the-city

17. The trinity of physical, mental and spiritual health has affected fashion this season too. Many designers came out with comfortable designs that resemble the draped cloths worn by Buddhist monks, for example Rick Owens, as pictured above.

18. Ayahuasca-rituals, in which people drink the hallucinogenic potion to find answers to deep questions and detox, have risen in popularity over the last few years. Many westerners go to Peru to attend these alternative healing ceremonies.

All is focused on happiness and bliss of the soul. Also focusing on being happier, more creative and focused throughout the day is ‘microdosing’. Using tiny doses of LSD can enhance overall wellbeing, help to reduce stress and anxiety, while improving sleep and leading to healthier habits (3). Microdosing is very popular under the tech-entrepreneurs of Silicon Valley, but is expected to spread rapidly. Actually, it already has. The story of Ayelet Waldman is only one of the many examples of people having found more happiness and less anxiety through microdosing. The 52-year old writer wrote the book ‘A really good day: how microdosing made a mega difference in my mood, my marriage, and my life’ about a month long experiment of treating her unstable moods with minuscule doses of LSD (4). But hallucinogens aren’t just used to treat stress and anxiety symptoms, they are also part of detoxing ceremonies where, under the influence of ayahuasca, demons from the past are fought and existential questions are answered. Ayahuasca is a hallucinogenic potion made from boiling woody ‘banisteriopsis caapi’ vines with the glossy leaves of the chacruna bush, and is known to induce extraordinary visions and deep-throat vomiting (5). According to an article in The Guardian, Peru’s Ayahuasca industry is booming, thanks to the many westerners that are searching for alternative healing (6). This deeper connection to the self and search for answers in psychedelics and spirituality is translated into fashion as well. Rick Owens had been inspired by the draped garments worn by Buddhist monks for his Spring/Summer 2017 collection (image 17, p. 43) and also Issey Miyake had some flowing and earthly inspired looks in his Spring/Summer 2017 show. 1. Sahakian, B., d’Angelo, C. and Savulich, G., 2017, LSD ‘microdosing’ is trending in Silicon Valley - but can it actually make you more creative? From: http://www.independent.co.uk/ life-style/gadgets-and-tech/features/lsd-microdosing-is-trending-in-silicon-valley-butcan-it-actually-make-you-more-creative-a7580881.html 2. Heller, N., 2017, How Ayelet Waldman found a calmer life on tiny doses of LSD. From: http://www.newyorker.com/culture/persons-of-interest/how-ayelet-waldman-found-acalmer-life-on-tiny-doses-of-lsd 3. Levy, A., 2016, The drug of choice for the age of kale. From: http://www.newyorker.com/ magazine/2016/09/12/the-ayahuasca-boom-in-the-u-s 4. Hill, D., 2016, Peru’s ayahuasca industry booms as westerners search for alternative healing. From: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2016/jun/07/peru-aya huasca-drink-boom-amazon-spirituality-healing

WHY

Why is the ‘holistic health’ trend so big? Where does it come from? Well firstly is it a reaction to the increase of anxiety and depression under twenty-somethings. Thanks to our parents having us always told that we could do whatever we wanted, and the economic crisis that told us that there was no way that we could do whatever we wanted, many young adults are sitting at home, with a degree, but without a job. Stressful, especially when seeing your peers being successful on social media. And the influence of social media does not stop there. Social channels such as Facebook and Instagram have become a way to show your life in a curated way. It is not about the truth anymore, it’s about the pretty picture. Of course there’s a lot of movement to be seen towards more honesty on social media, but the build up can be felt under many twenty-somethings, who did not really grow up with social channels, like the new generation does. They had to figure out a way to live with it, in an age where insecurity is the highest. It has made its mark, and the combination of stress over the future, a not-so picture perfect life and the pressure that most people feel anyway around that age has resulted in an extreme increase of anxiety and depression. That’s why we are in need of soul searching, of finding different ways to handle our issues. We are now online and accessible 24 hours a day, a huge difference from when there was just one phone in the house that could only be used during the day. Our social lives never stop, but work never stops too. It can all become a bit much and finding comfort in meditation, yoga and mindfulness is only an inevitable result. The increase in use of psychedelics can be explained as a result of people trying to escape their intense, 24/7, fastlane lives, and their depressions and anxiety disorders coming with it. Also, somewhere around the age of 20 many people start to have existential questions, which are very hard to answer. For some people, who perhaps are already using drugs, or are interested in drug use, using hallucinogens as a way to fix your problems sounds as an ideal solution. It’s definitely a lot quicker than seeing a therapist once a week for a year.

UTURE 45

The ‘holistic health’-trend is one that will keep reappearing throughout the decades.In the 1960s and 1970s everything was about soul-searching and happiness. It was also the time of the second feministic wave, and we are in the third feministic wave at the moment. Also, in the 1960s and 1970s hallucinogens were the top drug to use, something that has been changing every decade. In the 1980s it shifted towards cocaine, the 1990s were big for XTC and heroin, and now in the 2010s we’re going back to hallucinogens. Looking at the hyperbolism of this ‘holistic health’-trend, I don’t think it will have a very long lifespan, compared to the other two trends mentioned in this trendbook. Of course there are different aspects of 2010s ‘holistic health’-trend that weren’t there in the 1960s/70s, such as wearables and apps, but that is just because times are different. A few will linger, of course. Using LSD for therapy purposes will become more mainstream, as it is still quite obscure now. And even though microdosing is only a big deal amongst tech-entrepreneurs as of yet, it will find its way to Europe, resulting in it becoming more common. Mindfulness and meditation have found their place in society now, and when the big hype is over, they will remain where they are.

19. Wearables not to connect us with the world, but to shut us off from the distractions of the world. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what British design studio Vinaya has created with their Altruis X wearables. A tool to help you find stillness and inner peace amidst the stress of modern day life,

CONCLUSION Looking at all three of the trends that I have analysed, I feel like ‘interconnectability’ and ‘off the grid’ are the most interesting for a future fashion brand. I expect that both of those trends will have a long lifespan and will still be current in ten or twenty years, constantly adapting to the latest innovations. As mentioned in the previous chapter, I think that the ‘holistic health’-trend will leave and come back several times over the next century, meaning that using that trend as the base of a fashion brand would not make sense. It would be too dependent on the moment, which would result in high profits in good times, but great losses in bad times. 47

I think that going deeper into the fashion aspect of the ‘off the grid’-trend can be very inspiring, especially when looking at the use of smart fabrics that adapt to the surroundings, and the fact that every part should be able to be repaired right away. I think it will be interesting to create a line of garments that are made of extremely sturdy and adapting materials, that will have different add-ons and accessories fitting to the type of ‘off the grid’ you are. Every collection will be featuring the latest innovations in textile technology, and is adapted to the exact things the nomad of that moment needs. The brand will focus on the sustainability of garments, garments that can be worn for years without losing quality, and that will break down completely when not needed anymore. A full circle of beautifully made, durable and adaptive pieces of clothing.

Using the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;interconnectabilityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;-trend as an inspiration for a fashion and/or lifestyle brand could be interesting too. I can imagine that the products will all be able to connect with smartphones, laptops et cetera. There would be a lot of nanotechnology involved, especially when it would come to the materials used. Next to technology, there would be a lot of transparency involved. For instance, there is a fabric that becomes (sort of) see through, by projecting what happens behind it. That would be interesting to work with. Also when it would come to the garments, more skin will be shown. There will be no sense of privacy, so why hide behind the mask of clothes? I think both of the aforementioned possibilities would be interesting to explore for the next step in this project and I look forward to going deeper into the research and concept phase.

1. Own image, 2017, Google Chromecast. 2. Windows, 2016, screengrab of Windows Holographic. [Image] From: https://youtu.be/2MqGrF6JaOM 3. ElectricFoxy, 2014, Bar. [Image] From: http://www.electricfoxy.com/bar/ 4. Vlamos, Y., 2016, Chanel Spring/Summer 2017. [Image] From: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2017-ready-to-wear/chanel

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5. Xandt, H., 2012, Le Pilote. From: http://www.mathisfermaud.com/casque-futuriste-made-in-xandt/

6. Saxby, E., 2017, Office for the day. [Image] From: https://www.instagram.com/esaxby/ 7. Own image, 2017, Hashtag Workmode. 8. Own image, 2017, Zoku.

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9. Own image, 2017, Camouflage parka at Zara.

10. FabriCan, 2010, FabriCan. [Image] From: http://www.fabricanltd.com/ 11. Nice Architects, 2015, EcoCapsule. [Image] From: https://www.ecocapsule.sk/ 12. Own image, 2017, 3D-printer at MakerPoint.

13. Own image, 2017, Undisputed Living.

SOURCELIST 14. Own image, 2017, Vitamin Store.

15. Own image, 2017, Beter & Leuk.

16. Rituals, 2016, screengrab of Rituals app.

17. INDIGITIAL, 2016, Rick Owens, Spring/Summer 2017. [Image] From: https://www.businessoffashion.com /fashion-week/2017ss/rick-owens/collection/look/5 18. Lescale, E., 2016, Temple of the Way of Light ayahuasca centre. [Image] From: https://www.theguardian .com/travel/2016/jun/07/peru-ayahuasca-drink-boom-amazon-spirituality-healing

19. Vinaya , 2016, Altruis. [Image] From: https://www.vinaya.com/

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