FINGERS ON TRIGGERS

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spearfishing by kayak on the baja frontier

The rows of sun-bleached panties tacked to the rafters of the desert shack whip with each gust of west wind, and the empty Pacifico cans decorating the wire fence rattle incessantly.

Not a good sign.

We’re already committed when we arrive at this random outpost, 10 hours and two military

checkpoints after crossing the border. We left the pavement long ago and are now tracking north on this desolate, heavily rutted dirt road tracing the empty fringe of the Sea of Cortez. Our destination, an island north of Gonzaga Bay, lies some 35 miles and about three hours ahead. We’ve spent months planning this trip to coincide with the best conditions for both an island crossing (before the summer heat) and spearfishing (a half-moon offers the best chance for water clarity).

But all bets are off with this wind. It’s the one intangible that can stir the sea into a translucent haze and prevent us from harvesting the bounty of these nearly untouched waters. So when a thick rope slung across the road signals us to stop our kayak-topped ‘99 Chevy Tahoe at this compound-slash-general store called Coco’s Corner, Robert, Clayton and I go inside. As we poke around the shack covered in faded photos from Baja 1000 races of years past, Coco himself pulls up in a truck. He dismounts slowly, having no legs beyond his knees, and hobbles toward us followed by a small pack of emaciated kittens. We’re the first people he’s seen in four days. Clayton, who has been fuming about the wind for hours, buys four cold cervezas, places an open can in front of the proprietor, and begins to gently interrogate him about the weather. Coco offers distressingly little in the way of long-range weather forecasts, but he has plenty to say about our plan to paddle to Isla San Luis, the southernmost of the Islas Encantadas (Enchanted Islands). He shares a few stories about the fierce Baja winds whipping the sea into an impassable maelstrom, but that’s not what he would worry about. No, Coco says, he would worry about the coyotes. Everyone tells you, “Be careful,” so sternly before road-tripping down Baja. Then they volunteer earnest

advice: Take small bills, don’t drive at night, look out for drivers using their blinkers, travel insurance is a good idea, and, oh, take cold Pepsi products since they aren’t distributed there and will reduce bribe times. But nobody ever warns you about packs of wild island coyotes. In parting, Coco offers us one more piece of off-road wisdom that saves us: “Take a little air out of your tires, okay?” They’re ready to burst at 45 psi, 10 over the manufacturer limit. The boats also seem to be loosely strung and casually rigged to the rack, despite serious cranking before our early departure. So we drop the tires, cinch the stack of sea-faring sit-on-top kayaks and press north from Gonzaga Bay on this road littered with shredded tires, which Lonely Planet Baja & Los Cabos calls “one of the worst in Baja.” We arrive at Campo Punta Bufeo to the sun casting its final rays on Isla San Luis. Our barren island goal looms immediately in front of this small beachside community of 23 empty Gringo homes, a graded airstrip, and the main ranch house/hotel, a Road Warrior-like assemblage of buildings, generators, water tanks and skeletons of old vehicles. This is where we meet Julio. Julio is a man of few words, and though his T-shirt bears the English words ‘Lick it, Suck it, Slam it,’ his constant, wry grin and mostly one-word answers make

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6/22/10 7:37:43 PM


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