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No. 542. Vol. XI."] JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS. [April 10, 1863. , -, r ,_ ...... . ., .. 11 Rev.B. Morgan 110 Cowie, A. J.Baker 110 Creswell, Journal oí % Ätiefg of 110 Day,С. A 110 C.E Davison, Robert, FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 1863. 1 1 0 De la Grangerie, Chevalier Dardenne ф~ 1 1 О De la Rue,Warren, F.R.S 1 1 0 James Dixon, THE SOCIETY'S MEMORIAL OF THE Dixon, 0 10 6 Thomas PRINCE CONSORT. 110 Driver, Henry 110 Duppa Duppa, The following circular,with an abstractoí 110 W. G oftheGeneralMeetingheldon Eavestaff, theproceedings 110 Thomas - Edgworth, éhe7thFeb.,has beenissuedto themembers: 110 William Edwards, 1863; ofArts, W.C., London, Feb., Adelphi, Society noticethesub«Falcke, toyour to bring . 110 David Sir, I am directed General ofthisFenn, 1 1 0 ofa Special Meeting joinedproceedings Joseph the7thinstant. 110 heldonSaturday, Fenn, Society, Joseph, jun onthe Figgine, 1 1 О Shouldyoudesireto haveyournameplaced James, jun in Fisher, I shallfeelobliged lietofsubscribers, 1 X0 Charles byyour filling Joseph ittome,with 1 1 0 andreturning theaccompanying James William yourFraser, paper, ofa post-office 110 which Griffith John Frith, flubscription, maybe in theform to theFinancial madepayable order orcheque, Officer, andcrossed Coutts and George, 1 1 0 Thomas Mr.Samuel John Davenport, servant. 110 obedient I am,Sir,your Co. John Gretton, . P. LE NEVE FOSTER,Secretary 110 F.G.S William, is limitedto Harrison, ofeachmember The subscription 1 1 О R.N John, Harvey, Capt. one guinea. 1 1 0 Edward Healey, 1 1 0 Alfred additional nameshavebeenre- Hewlett, The following 1 1 О Samuel Higgs, ceivedup to the9thinst.:110 William Holland, 110 1 1 0 Home, Wentworth D.,M.D Acland, Henry Henry 110 1 1 0 Hunt,John F.R.S SirThomas Bart., Acland, Dyke, 1 1 0 Thomas 1 1 0 Hunt, Thomas Acland, Dyke Francis 110 Alexander, 1 1 0 John Frederick 110 Christian Iselin, Allhusen, 1 1 0 Claudius Ash,George 10 0 James Johnstone, 1 1 0 James Patershall Robert Walton 1 1 0 Jones, Bainbridge, 1 1 0 MissM. G Barnett, 1 1 0 Robinson 1 1 0 Kay,John Frederick Barron, 1 1 0 Edward 1 1 0 Keeling, W. J Henry Barron, 1 1 0 L 1 1 0 Keeling, Bell,J.Lowthian Henry 1 1 0 M.P 1 1 0 Kelly,SirFitzroy, Francis Bennoch, 1 0 0 John 10 0 Kennedy, Jacob Birt, 110 Matthew 1 1 0 Kirtley, Bohn, Henry George 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 Klaftenberger, Charles Bolckow, Henry 110 John Boyes, 0 10 в 0 10 0 Land,John John Bradley, 110 Edward 110 Thomas Lazard, Brooke, 1 1 0 Evan John Hitchcock 110 Buchan, Leigh, 1 1 0 1 1 0 Litchfield, John M.P Lieut.-General Buckley, 110 1 1 0 Losada, J.R de R. Scott Burn, 1 1 0 110 Butter, Low,Robert Henry 1 1 0 Miller James Thomas 110 Mackay, Campbell, 110 Edwin John C.B 110 Chadwick, Makiu, Edwin, 110 J.H 110 Rev.Samuel Martin, Challis, 1 1 0 W C.B Frederick 110 Monk, Challoner, Colonel, 1 1 0 Nathaniel J.G 110 Churchward, Montefiore, Captain, 1 1 0 Samuel William H 0 10 6 Morley, Clabburn, Rev.Samuel 110 Clark, 1 1 0 J.В Walter 1 1 0 Neilson, Clarke, Montgomerie Robert 1 1 0 Clarke, J.Jefiryes 1 1 Q Nathaniel 1 1 0 Oakley, Clayton, 110 Robert 1 1 0 Obbaid, Clowes, George Fletcher William 1 1 0 Coles, 110 Alexander M.Inst.C.E 110 Collie, Page,Thomas, 110 James Mrs.Caroline 1 1 0 Paine, Combe, 110 SirJoseph, SirDaniel, M.P. 1 1 0 Paxton, Bart Cooper, 110 David W. G.,F.G.S 110 Prescott, Cooper, 0 10 6 Charles 1 1 0 Purling, Cooper, Henry 110 James, M.D.,F.R.S Copland, 1 1 Q Miss.A.Burdett William 110 Radford, T., M.D Conto,
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JOURNAL OP THE SOCIETY OF ARTS, APRIL10, 1863.
F Richardson, Thos Richardson, R.A Roberts, David, Robert Roskell, Rer.William. Strong, Samuel Harvey Twining, Albert Frederick Winsor,
10 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
nosuccessful atitsaccomplishment attempt bytheaidof was madeuntilthecommencement ofthe machinery century. present Intracing ofthesewing theorigin a passing machine, atsomeoftheearlier efforts ofinventors in this glance direction willbenecessary, thattothose efforts premising wearepossibly tosome extent indebted for thesubsequent combinations of mechanism to whichI shallpresently haveoccasion tocallyour attention. Although apparently thesewing is in reality machine a very complicated, Its essential features are, pieceofmechanism. SEVENTEENTH ORDINARY MEETING. simple a needle orhookforcarrying a thread the first, through withapparatus combined formaintaining a material, Wednesday,April 5, 1863. onthethread oftension andforsecuring proper degree TheSeventeenth thestitch.Secondly, surfaces MeetingoftheOne andtightening Ordinary holding thematerial andwiththethrust Hundredand Ninth Sessionwas held on Wed- forsupporting against drawal oftheneedleat theimmediate the partwhere Esq., Mem- stitch nesday,the8thinst.,PeterGraham, isbeing Thirdly, produced. self-acting adjustable berofCouncil,in thechair. mechanism orfeeding thematerial forpropelling under The followingcandidateswere proposedfor theneedle iscompleted. asfast aseachstitch the Prior of first totheexistence maoftheSociety: sewing practical electionas members chine theembroidering machine waswellknown, several RussellW.C. Vernon been and in some contrivances 69, Benbow, square, ingenious having proposed, Westmincasesbrought for or intopractical 41,Victoria-street, operation, embroidering and The fabrics. devices ornamental woven ster, Grove,tambouring S.W., upon hadalsobeenmadeat theproduction ofa Í Epsom. Attempts and5, sewing Great Coram-street, the number machine. In machine a 6, о + J embroidering Edward Strutt ... Cavell, W.C. ofneedles orhooks, with a separate eachsupplied j Gray.s.inn-Square, thread, Г27,Scarsdale-villas, arecaused andleavethefabric toenter Child,HenryWilliam Kensingsimultaneously. W. Grace The fabric which either is an stretched over ton, frame, { open from a compound motion Hamp-receives specialmachinery Heaton Í 24a-Cardigan-street, dement ' Clement N.W. oris guideddirect surfaces, bythe governed bypattern j stead-road, S. С handoftheoperator, a course soastodescribe Mappin, Joseph Clapham-park, correspondasmany tobeembroidered, H°USC'Tufne11consequently, ingtothepattern Kdsdale, Joseph are simultaneously of thispattern as produced repeats Gloucester. in themachine.After eachstitch Wm.Croudson. there areneedles is Tunstall, madethefabric a steponwards is moved equalto the The followingCandidateswere ballotedfor desired butalways inthecourse ordirecofstitch, length tionofthefigure tobeproduced. and dulyelectedmembers of.theSociety:in1804, machine wasinvented Thefirst embroidering °ld Kent"byJohnDuncan, ofGlasgow.He ema manufacturer 6' Thomas Beeeh, or hooked a number ofbarbed needles, which, { ployed. Charles W. after withthread weresupplied Beevor, 41,Upper thefabric, Harley-street, penetrating N.W. andthenwithdrawn, with ita loop Bell,Alexander eachneedledrawing 18,Harrington-square, W.C. ofthread William theprevious thefabric andthrough 8,Brunswick-square, Carpenter, through Sevenoaks.loop. In Bock'smachine of 1829 (better Perkins, Chipsted-place, George known, theneedles about asHeilmann's), 150 (ofwhich perhaps, The Paperreadwas- » hadeachaneyeinthemiddle, andwere were employed) thenecessity toobviate for atbothendsinorder pointed ON THE SEWING MACHINE:ITS HISTORY reversing thefabric, after eachpassage them for, through AND PROGRESS. unlike the werepassedentirely Duncan's, through they at eachstitch, needlebeingprovided with fabric By EdwinP. Alexander. every in of of ordefinite length thread,place being andsocialimportance of a needleful withthenational Impressed frombobbins.An ingenious as oneofthemost valuable ofthe suppliedcontinuously machine thesewing oneach wasemployed of ornippers arrangement pincers machines cenof the nineteenth numerous labour-saving theseveral and thefabric side for of needles, holding and with some I diffidence, inserting mysubject tury, approach in we have them here and fact, ; withdrawing that abler hands than mine have for sakes, regret, your of hand-ema verycloseimitation oftheoperation thisSociety. itbefore tobring hotbeendeputed forthose mechanical fingers substituting as I possess in broidering. onthesubject Suchinformation, however, needle Thedouble-pointed nature. employed by supplied and if I at sucI shall ; disposal place your questiongladly in thiscountry Bockwas patented by Charles andmerits of by thenature ceedinthrowing anylightupon in 1755,forhandembroidery. Frederick Weisenthal, I shallconsider little theseindefatigable seamstresses, my A ofthenameof Thimonnier, invented, havenotbeeninvain. I appear before labours youthisin Frenchman, thetambour or 1830,a machineforproducing ofanyoneinparticular notas thechampion of chain evening, ofa hookedneedle» stitchin gloves, bymeans varieties ofsewing butrather as thenumerous machines, and an humble of theirgeneral construction exponent . modus operandi I propose, to tracetheorigin ofthe sewing firstly, of to explain theleading features machine; secondly, to mostgenerally thosevarieties Stitch. Chain orTambour ; and,thirdly, adopted statistical returns therapid youa few showing laybefore and tobe of anypractical anditsim- It wasnotfound oftheartofmachine utility, development sewing, ofa large por-wassooncastaside. In 1835,WalterHunt,of New well-being portant bearing uponthesocial of a withthe construction himself tionofthecommunity. York,occupied toemploy thefirst andwas,I believe, theartofsewing isoneof sewing andembroidering machine, Although whatis nowknowH themostancient itisanastonishing fact thattwocontinuous ofall arts, threads, producing 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
JOURNAL OP THE SOCIETY OF ARTS, APRIL10, 1863.
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from sides thefabric in <drawn as theshuttle buthe didnotsucceed orlock-stitch, opposite entirely through machines. andGreenough's as in Heilmann's a practically andit wasnot гalternately, usefulmachine, making outand worked machineswere were Theseingenious untilfifteen entirely yearsafterthattheexperiments and of Nottingham, law <constructed ofcertain before thepublic ontheoccasion byMr.JohnFisher, brought hebeing a mechanic, soyoung credit instituted only great upon proceedings byEliasHowe. In 184LMessrs.ireflect labours. ofhisarduous which was !19yearsofageatthecompletion Newton andArchbold a machine, patented stitch nowsowell Fisher wastheinventer ofthepeculiar the J usefor embroidering subsequently putintopractical " ordoubleandBakerknotted" known astheGrover backsofgloves.The needles weremadewithan eye 1 loop it tothepurposes of buthe merely withhooks<chain-stitch, nearthepoint, in combination andoperated applied forcatching theloopsofthread through upwards passed forthe theglove, andholding themina suitable position thusprothem ofthesucceeding loops, through passage in werecontained The gloves thechain-stitch. ducing a self-acting frames orclamps, towhich stepopenmetal at inonedirection movement onlywasimparted Stitch. by-step &Baker orGrover Knotted machines stitch. Oneofthefirst by protected sewing every hisattention au turned «ornamenting Hadhe but fabrics. inAmerica in1842, wasinvented byJohnGreenough, patent hesubsequently for as I believe wasintended oftheUnited States. Thismachine did,totheproducheavythattime, thatwith thereis littledoubt learnthatit waseverput tionofa sewing leather butI cannot machine, work, have would hisefforts he thenpossessed wasto be pro-theknowledge The sewing intopractical operation. wouldhave and England withsuccess, frombeencrowned thematerial ducedbya thread passedthrough machine. tothesewing birth ofgiving thehonour sidesalternately by the aid of a double-gained opposite I shallcall the which ornippers,In oneof Fishei'smachines, worked needle, fingers bymechanical pointed instruments theembroidering as in Heilmann's machine.Thisstitchwas calledlooping-machine, employed orbow-shaped ofcurved ofa number ofsewingconsisted stitch."Another the"shoemaker's needles, variety in and another near the an with each point eye provided the therearofthebend. Theseneedles penetrated conwith andweresupplied belowupwards, from fabric reelsor bobbins.In from threads tinuous separate above witheach needle,and operating conjunction theone thereweretwoother instruments, thefabric, with froma bobbin whichwassupplied a "looper," ofits own;theothera hook,for thread a separate on the looper. theloop of needle-thread Shoemaker's Stitch. retaining so as to wereinterlooped The twothreads together chaornamental ofa highly stitch chain a double produce first machine wasintended forproducing for (the ofitskind) andadmirably embroidering purposes. adapted racter, orbasting stitch a running similar tothatmadebyhand.In thesecond asthe which machine, maybe designated in theUnitedStates It waspatented in1843,andintro-shuttle-machine, waseffected theornamentation bysewing duced in 1844,byLeonard hereandpatented Bostwick. ofthe inpattern oryarn, uponthesurface threads, gimp, in fabric a second or bysewing tobe ornamented, fabiic fabric ofthesecond being thefirst, portions upon pattern soastoprothepatterns cutawaybetween subsequently work. asappliqué known ducethestyleofornamenting with wasusedin combination a shuttle In thismachine described. This needles orcurved eachofthebent already and orornamenting thread with wassupplied cord, shuttle ofthefabric toandfroonthesurface traversed passing which was theopenloopoftheneedle thread, through belowupwards from thefabric bythe Stitch. through protruded Running orcord with the thread theshuttle soastointerlock needle orcorrugated inis crimped isprecisely similar thefabric soobtained by needle-thread. Thestitch In thismachine orcrimptoothed wheels ofgeareda pair between to the lock-stitch formation by thesewing produced passing ontotheneedle,machine, ofthere thefact so formed from butisnotsotight, being beingpushed ers,thefolds thewheels.It issin-notension between various machines these is heldstationary which onthethreads.Whilst deofBostwick thespecification gularthat,although it forthepurpose, a machine scribed adapted perfectly a similar intouseinthisсоиntryuntil wasnotintroduced in 1849,when hadbeenrepatented machine byMorey 's under ofManchester, andPiatt, Mather Stitch. Morey Messrs. orShuttle Lock for ofthem hundreds several madeandintroduced license, ana ot mechanics minds the less or more and anddyeworks, were inbleach occupying goods piece together sewing wasbreaking achievement ofa grander thedawn 6oldinventors, wasalso,ata laterpeiiod, thesamemachine largely tolacegoods,inAmerica. laceedgings for e of inNottingham attaching a native Cambridge thewantof Intheyear1841,EliasHowe, forwhich although theyarewelladapted, ofconstructing idea the conceived first use for their Massachusetts, inthestitch Port, andsecurity firmness precludes ofnohigher I know machine. a really sewing practical other purposes. I indeed, andperseverance, ofpatient whichexample industry totwofabiic-ornamcnting machines, I nowcome thanthatdisplayed by toscience, ofthismaysay,ofdevotedness thananyother bearmore uponmysubject closely 22 mechanic, only Howein hisearlycareer.A young andGibbons' machines, toFisher patented class; I refer and himself em-yearsofage,hardly capableofsupporting 1844. Thesearethefirst the7thof December, laboured he scant his on him to dear earnings, most those to it was wherein machines proposedemploy broidering athisselfinhisnative town, ina little ior manfully, orlocked garret threads together twocontinuous interlooped to were that hours few the spared task machines during all the adapted imposed being stitches, prior producing ended. were the of labours the day him after either ordinary a of use thread, the interlooped to single simply as he says,he and although, or He became enthusiastic, andThiuionnier's machine, as inDuncan's itself with
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OP ARTS, April 10, 1863.
for andhispatent hisattention notdevote his being tothesubject could prolonged finally acknowledged, during a royalty he nowreceives itwhenhecould, he thought botha termofsevenyears, upon hours, upon working in the United manufactured everysewingmachine dayandnight.It grewuponhimtillhefeltimpelled ofÂŁ50,000 ofupwards an income timeto it,andbeingpromised assist-States, toyieldhiswhole per producing he devoted ! himself to the annum ancebya friend, exclusively hasbeenblessed with a numerous machine andpractical of his machine. Theparent construction completion In atmaturity. butfewhavearrived wasthatin1845heperfected hisfirst ofwhich Theresult sewingprogeny, forimproveof300patents to testitspractical aloneupwards he thiscountry machine, and,in order success, havebeenapplied whilst withit all theprincipal in sewing machines seamsin twosuitsof ments sewed for, wereobtained inAmerica 548patents clothes.Onthe10thofSeptember, 1846,heobtained up to theendof filed.Many intheglasscaseisa fac-simile hispatent.Themachine 1862,and morethan1,200applications introfirst havebeensubsequently machine ofHowe's lentmeby valuableimprovements ; it is kindly sewing bothbyHowehimself itwaspresented Mr.Bennett towhom machine, Woodcroft, byHoweducedintothesewing ofthese haverelation In Howe'soriginal Themost to himself. machine a curved needleandothers. important wasthe which totheendofa vibrating orfeeding attached leverwascombined thecloth mechanism, propelling in first with defective machine. The step a reciprocating shuttle forproducing thelock-stitch. part Howe's original andJohnson, inthisdirection hadaneyenearitspoint, wasmadebyMessrs. Theneedle anda groove formed Morey in substituted for the baster the and under to who sides, allowofthethread 1849, plateofHowea along upper oilitsupper andso passing serrations moreeasilythrough the horizontal bar,having reciprocating lyingtherein table wasattached andworking toandfroalongthehorizontal cloth.Thecloth topinsontheedgeofa surface, thinsteelribcalleda " baster thefactI orcloth-supporting surface of themachine.Thecloth plate,"from ofitsserving thepurpose theroughened surface ofa basting in washelddown ofthisbarby thread presume upon thetwothicknesses a smooth under surface ofmaterial whilsta spring to holding together plate, having presser stitched. Thisplateformed itwhen a portion from under drawn ofthefeedallowtheclothto slipfreely being mechanism for barduring thecloth orserrations ofthefeeding ; itwascarried propelling along alongbytheteeth ofa smallpinion motion.Asthecloth wasconstantly heldin which stepbystepbytheteeth geareditsforward intoholesmadeinthebaster ofthefeeding anintermittent withtheroughened surface rota-contact bar, plate, motion to thepinion thelatter onitsreturn wasaptto carry theclothback being tory imparted byself-acting in mechanism the with concert with needle and and therefore a claw or was for shuttle. it, working pawl employed Thisfeedmotion wasfound in manyre- retaining tobedefective theclothas it wasfedforward. In sewing andhassince beenentirely abolished inall sewingseams ofa constantly direction it is necessary to spects, varying machines.The clothwasheldin a vertical thecloth under theneedle, so thatit may guideorturn position thesideoftheshuttle race,bya spring Now,todothiseffectagainst required. pres-befedin thedirection at thepartwheretheneedle be comparatively theclothshould free from entered. The ually, ser-plate preswasdriven toandfroinitsraceorgroove shuttle theintervals between theformation ofthe bytwosureduring carried ontheendsof vibrating stitches thiswasnot armsworked successive strikers, ; inMorey's arrangement ofNewYork, features em- thecase. In 1850,Singer, tothe alternately bycams.Themostimportant applied a wheelorcylinder machine bodiedin thismachine weretheadaptation ofsuitablesewing a roughened having for contrivances therequisite amount forfeeding thecloth,which is oftension imparting periphery arrangement totheneedleandshuttle-threads, for andknown as the" wheel taking employed, uptheslackstillextensively ontheneedlethread formed when in a vertical theneedleenters the feed."Thewheelrevolves intermittently for anddrawing andderives andforplaneinonedirection itsmotion from a cloth, tightening only, upthestitch, theclothagainst thethrust andwithdrawal leverandfrictional surfaces ontherim supporting vibrating acting of theneedle. Shortly oftheperiphery afterobtaining his patent in of thewheel.A portion ofthiswheel Howesentovera machine above tothiscountry, thehorizontal and projects tableorcloth America, plate slightly ofhisinvention andthecloth ishelddown to Mr.William Thomas fora ofthemachine, disposed uponitbya amount. a smooth under surface. At each foot, having trifling presser ofDecember, itcarries Onthefirst movement ofthewheel thecloth obtained 1846,Mr.Thomas and,as along, forthemachine in England, a patent soonafter isnobackorreturn thetendency topucker, whichthere motion, Howehimself arrived is prevented. heretoassisthimin adapting Thisdescription the ordrawbackthecloth, machine tothepeculiar kindofworkrequired, offeedis welladapted forstraight or slightly curved namely, Howe does not to seams and but as thepressure on thecloth work, stay-making. appear haveprospered heavy in for the of indebted is it not admit of to a friend does and (or a that here, constant, spring 1849, rapid free hereturned to America, in ornaof theclothwhichis required if manoeuvring home, steerage passage poorer than heleft.He found when hiswifeona bed mental hasbeen orbraiding. Thisobjection possible stitching andina stateofutter ofsickness destitution. in somecasesbycausing Tendays remedied thepresser footor hisarrival after shedied. During hisabsence inEnglandplateto riseat eachstitch, so as to leavethecloth or hadbeenextensively hispatent andin1850he material orguided inanydesired difreeto be turned infringed, commenced andsucceeded in everyrection. Mr.Đ?.B. Wilson, oftheWheeler andWilson legalproceedings, caseinestablishing thevalidity ofhispatent. out,in 1851,the SewingMachine Company, brought Inthecourse ofthese a prior claimto the mostperfect of feed-motion forgeneral proceedings arrangement ofthesewing invention wassetup byWalterpurposes. machine The feedin question is known asthe" four whowassaidto haveconstructed, It consists barsimilar to ofa serrated and motion-feed." Hunt, exhibited, orlock-stitch butin addition to-and-fro ma- Morey's, to thehorizontal sold,in1834and1835,shuttle sewing similar inall essential toHowe's.That movement it receives the an up-and-down chines, motion, particulars Hunthadtried hishandata lock-stitch horizontal andvertical from movements obtained machine, sewing being andwastheinventor oftheshuttle orlock-stitch, camson thedriving thereseparate shaft.Theserrated poris I think nodoubt, butitwasneversatisfactorily an opening in thetable through provedtionofthisbarworks thatsuchmachines were so farperfected as to render or surface uponwhichthe clothis laid,thelatter themmorethanabortive The turning experiments. beinghelddownon thetableby a yielding presser in Howe's career had nowarrived, andfortune In propelling soonplateimmediately abovetheserrations. point to smile In him. 1853he granted hisfirstthecloththefeeding barfirst its risesso as tobring began upon andin1855wasenabled to regainpossession license, of roughened surface in contact withtheunderside ofthe thewholeofhispatent, whichat oneperiodhe had cloth, it thenmoveshorizontally a certain disforward de- tanceaccording to thelengthof stitchdesired, and of,in orderto meetthepressing entirely disposed filande thatweremadeuponhim. His patent the carries cloth it below thelevel rights alongwhen descends
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OP ARTS, April 10, 1863.
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oflock-stitch maThe bestexamples machines. withstitch contact from so as to freeit entirely ofthetable, andWilson, in chines arethoseofWheeler Howe, andfinally thecloth, returns to itsoriginal Singer, position ordoublechainforthe"knotted" andThomas;whilst to another forthenexttraverse. readiness "According Machine andBakerSewing theGrover stitch theserrated ofthis" four-motion modification machines, principle, of stands surface theplaceof thepresser Bythekindpermission pre-eminent. plate,Company occupies feeding for to submit thisevening lamenabled ofthetheirproprietors, surface andis causedto operate upontheupper varieties. ofall these or your itsreturn risesduring so thatwhenthefeeder specimens cloth, inspection ofa havebeenmadeattheproduction from free thecloth willbeentirely backstroke, attempts pressureMany the idea having -thread oftheneedle andheldinposition sewingmachine, only.goodsingle bythepresence seamcouldbe thatifa secure inventors struck is admirably Thismodification evidently adaptedto ornamental inplaceoftwo,an undoubted from onethread in anydirection as thoclothcanbe turned produced stitching, thethreads sincethefewer begained, would thestemoftheneedle.In all thesecloth-proround advantage thesimpler after andlooked toberegulated the andtensions is madetorvarying mechanisme pelling provision and In 1849,Messrs. themachine. andcheaper Morey ofanydesired soastoenable ofthefeeder throw stitches machine thechain-stitch first Johnson sewing tobeobtained. brought length thatperiod andsince likea practical form, nowinusemaybedividedintosomething Thevarious machines sewing haveworked ofinventors a host uponthesameidea,but intotwoclasses :ofMillpoint, realsuccess without thread. allmachines a single till,in1857,Mr.Gibbs, Class1. Comprising using and seena sewing machine, without two or moreVirginia, Class2. Thosemachines having employing ofwhathadbeendoneinthatdirection, threads. nothing knowing has since which a rudemodelofa machine, constructed Theonlymachines ofanypractical utility comprised beenimthebestof its class. Having itself andthe proved andGibbs' under class1 areWillcox machine, is thismachine andmodified bootandshoesoles,proved forstitching machines waxed thread byMr.Willcox, machine. andGibbssewing as theWillcox class2 we nowknown work.Under andother leather harness, strong oĂ a straight - Thesewing isproduced chain andthe" knotted" ordouble bythecombination havethelock-stitch
- Diagrams ofStitch, formation andGibbs showing "Willcox toot. barbya yielding presser in the upontheserrated feeding a peculiar with rotating looper needle, eyepointed and theneedledescends ofstitching direc-In theoperation in reverse itspoints form ofa double hook, having which thefabric, loopis a loopofthread through a flat-carries is formed ofthehookthere tions. Onthestem hookoftherotating looperandrebvthefront tocastoffandtwisttheloop; a caught serves tened which spur, a thestitch being a halfturnortwist, produced feed,actuated bya ceives of underfour-motion simpleform the than secure is more which chain stitch, twisted down held which is thefabric, topropel crank pin,serves
Chain-stitch. Twisted ithasbeenm reality ontheloopafter oftension andthe "amount isfedforward stitch.Thecloth chain ordinary hook,theobjectbeingto the from off" looping cast it. with second a loop descends oftheloop,which needle bringing again, orentanglement avoidany" kinking" thepreceding hook, ^ tl>e Thisis in turn bythefront at highspeeds, caught occursin running sometimes of throat the into meantime the uncontrolled. in and passed slack loophaving left be perfectly loop from it,and cast-off withdraws which therearhook, is exceedingly simple gradually andGibbsmachine Willcox mits released ittobe finally onlywhenit is nearlyThe allows andleastnoisy andisthefastest construction, its in the of rear The looper is fabric. the portion and into drawn largely for use, up family well It is adapted action. is calledbytheinventor runat thisoperation whicheffects trade.It isordinarily inthetrimming a certain employed as itmaintains inasmuch letoff." the" tension
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JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS, Aprii. 10, 1863.
the ispassed which istotaketheloopofthread, herateof1,500stitches butcanbeworked through perminute, thestationary it under andcarry fabric bytheneedle, upto3,000or4,000. thetwo so as to interlock andthencastit off, chain-shuttle, I attribute theformer ofthesingle-thread failure thelock-stitch. ofthe threads, stitch (See woodmachines construction more to thedefective thereby producing nextpage. machines bya friction liabletodropstitches) werefrequently cuts, ) Thecastoff loopisretained (which untilthenextloophasbeencaught it will loopcheck bythe thantothestitch made, itself, as,whenproperly construction isofa similar ofthehook. Theshuttle itdoesnot point answer formostpractical although purposes, " oftwodiscs ofa lacemachine.It consists tothebobbins thestability ofthe" knottedandlock-stitches. possess is Inthewaxedthread thestitch machines produced theordinary chain a hooked needle stitch, being generally descends for thethread.It either employed introducing which thread of thematerial anddraws a through loop up orit hasbeensupplied to it bya thread-carrier below, from works anddrawstheloopdown belowupwards, thematerial thepreceding andthrough loop. through were machines Twoexcellent ofwaxedthread examples exhibited intheAmerican DepartbyMr.L. A. Bigelow oftheInternational ment Exhibition. adapted Theywere andwere forstitching bootandshoesolestotheuppers, ofturning out150pairsofbootsorshoesper capable diem: lossof a certain In allreciprocating machines shuttle andbringisincurred indriving forward, stopping, power themachines whilst ateachstitch, ingbacktheshuttle those ofanyother than aregenerally more descripnoisy the of thedriver tion,owingto thestriking against havebeen at eachfresh shuttle start.Theseobjections andWilson in theWheeler mosteffectually removed isreplaced shuttle where thereciprocating bya machine, with the thread oftheneedle one,thelocking stationary the notbydriving thread shuttle accomplished, being butby shuttle theloopoftheneedlethread, through thatloopundertheshuttle.To theendofthe passing which circular shaft a peculiar isattached hook, driving thathasever contrivances isoneofthemostbeautiful Machine. andShoe sBoot Stitching Bigelow Itsfunction intothisclassofmechanism. beenintroduced
and Wheeler Wilson's Machine, Inthis ofthemachine. the easier willbe themanagement andbetween connected which, axis,upon bya central is obtained by thediame-machine oftheneedlethread isofabout thetension Thisshuttle iswound. thethread discs, towhich any intoa circular itonceround a small andfits ofa florin, pulley, terandthickness grooved loosely passing volute a isapplied therein offriction retained ofthehook, upon inthecentre bya nutacting recess by degree being onesideofthepulley.The bears which allows ofsufficient which orholder, bracket anadjustable against spring, andis four-motion feed, oftheclothis propelled oftheeasy toadmit intheshuttle lateral byan under passage play is which foot, helddown thereon it. Theonly tension round thread presser bya yielding apparatus loopofneedle theadditional toserve thread ofbeing istheonefortheneedle purposes inthismachine , capable adapted required orbraider. ofa hemmer tautby either thread theshuttle keptsufficiently beingalways let machine, toyouHowe'sfirst hookto turntheshuttle,Having oftherotating thetendency already explained TheHowesewtohislatest.^ attention inthatpart| menowcallyour oftension degree upa proper thereby keeping isoneofElias toyouthisevening exhibited theshuttle tothefabric. from ofthethread ingmachine extending machines, in Howe's most as thetensions a great manufacturing Thisisundoubtedly recently improved advantage, itisbeing trade inwhich bootandshoework, for arereallythemostdifficult machine a sewing partsto adapted machine a sewing Inadapting thevery theirnumber thefewer employed. extensively and,consequently, regulato,
JOURNAL OP THE SOCIETY OF ARTS, APRIL 10, 1863.
363
ismainthread oftheshuttle tothestitching as theshuttle.Thetension oftubular forexample, articles, such, inlieu theshuttle, inside thelegsanduppers ofbootsandshoes, it is necessary to tained bya smallnipping spring as is usually itthrough hoiesin theshuttle, theshape ofpassing ofthetableor surface whichsupports modify thepresis afforded forregulating thematerial, article soas to admit ofa tubular passingthecase,andfacility ofthe to thenature it; consequently, footaccording over inplaceofhaving flat a wide, table,sureofthepresser an almost littlecontrivances work.By thesesimple the universal machine is obtained, capableof stitching atthewillofthe materials finest muslin orthestrongest operator. machine as theSinger The machine known sewing shuttle is oneoftheoldest ofthereciprocating variety, herein 1852. It is well and was firstintroduced manuto bootand shoeworkandall heavy adapted to thewheelfeed facturing purposes.In addition to havebeenthe claims Mr. Singer described, already carried thestraight first tointroduce needle, bya slide, directto a in substitution a curvedneedleattached - Front oftheHook Elevation . Wilson Wheeler isemorcylinder, andlongoverhanging a narrow arm, canbereadily work tubular which adjusted. upon ployed, to iscommon surface ofthecloth Thisform -supporting referred theclassofwork for intended to,and allmachines " butthe as the cylinder known machine," isgenerally whichare otherspecialities, us contains before specimen thestitch ofnotice.InHowe's machine, cylinder worthy
Atm. Lever Take-up Singer's Wheeler &WilsonDetaile ofihÂŤHook. work For arm. lever needle, heavy a straight vibrating is essenthefabric, is produced in a different manner to all othershuttlepenetrating through perpendicularly to and needle the curved In every machines. othershuttle machine theneedletially apt spring being requisite, and similar leather whenforced inthematerial remains thepassage oftheshuttlebreak strong through during the In lightworking however, materials. theloopoftheneedle machines, butinthismachine thread, through extra friction andonlyentails slideisunnecessary, doesnotpassthrough theshuttle theneedleneedle theloopuntil from thematerial.Theneedle iswithdrawn the andwearandtearof theworking parts.The needle pierces from direct a ina vertical andthen withdraws a certain distance clearofthe slideworks guideandisdriven work, slotted in a differential a loopofitsthread pieceattached behind working material, it,through leaving crank-pin istaken thread oftheneedle up which shuttle loopa reciprocating passeswiththesecondtotheslide. Theslack effected ofthestitch bya spring barthen anddrawsand thetightening thread.Theneedle rises stillfurther, armactuated thestitch.Thesewing onthislever bytheneedleslideso as todescend upandtightens produced theloopwhen forforming thread hasa closer thanandgiveoutsufficient andmoreregular machine appearance the andthento riseandtighten onanordinary made machine. that lock-stitch The theneedledescends, sewing ascends. astheneedle orflat tablemachines, nowconstructed byHowe,stitch platform, Mr. of1846(nowexpired), a simple for with little contrivance areprovided patent preventingSincehisoriginal severalimprovements, and, ofthe Thomashas introduced oftheneedle thebreaking occasioned bythepoint the firstHowe remodelled has completely a indeed, itduring itspassage, forwhich shuttle purpose striking .As features. itsessential ofcourse, the machine, actuated retaining, small cam, against byanextra presses wedge, with isprovided machine theThomas andholdsitbackclearof nowmanufactured, theshuttle inside needle race, with andis furnished slideandstraight needle, ofstitches themissing theshuttle's by a needle point.To obviate to. Theneedle referred feed theloopofthe thetopfour-motion notcatching previously oftheshuttle reason fairly armworked lever bya cam needle orlaterally bya vibrating a deflector, needle slide,slideisactuated thread, adjusting and asthefly-wheel serves ina discwhich formed whichtheneedlemaybe groove is employed, by adjusting to iscarried Theshuttle ofthemachine. thesideoftheshuttle. from toorfurther nearer driving pulley brought tothe atright angles andfroalongitsrace,ina direction alsofortheadaptation affords Thisarrangement facility driver ofa forked ofthefabric, a finefeedortraverse When bymeans machine. tothesame needles orcoarse offine intheflyalsoformed camgroove soasto actuated tobeadjusted theslidewillrequire byanother isused, needle an thebobbin from through passes andifa wheel.Thethread totheshuttle, nearer thesideoftheneedle bring toan andthence arm, tobe eyeintheendofa short adjustable then theslidewillrequire beinserted, needle coarse islifted which ofanauxiliary lever, thickness theextra sothat intheopposite eyeintheextremity direction, adjusted andconseof bya pinintheneedleslideat eachstitch, tothepassage noobstruction willpresent oftheneedle
m
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OP ARTS, APRIL 10, 1863.
takes andtightens toraiseorlower the operated it beingsimply uptheslackofthethread requisite upon, quently oftheadjustable armis toregulate in the The object thisarmslightly whenthevariation fltitch. produced of thread drawnoffthebobbin at eachangleordirection more orlessthread ofthethread causes theamount withthethickness ofthematerial tobe drawn at eachriseoftheauxiliary offthebobbin stitch in accordance
Thomas Machine andshuttle. iswelladapted which lever.Thismachine, forgeneral Theobject ofthecurvilinear ofthelooper isto shape andboot andshoework, isextensively ensure thepresentation oftheloopoftheunder thread in outfitting employed inalltheGovernment factories. anexpanded as upon oropenform totheneedle, thedue andBaker TheGrover oftheneedle thisloopdepends Machine contheinSewing passage Company through " or tegrity oflock-stitch a newform struct as wellasa " knotted itcarries ofthestitch. Whentheneedle descends, chain-stitch machine. Asthelatter the fabric double of a loopofthe upperthread and through description hasobtained a more machine extensive the openloop of theunderthread saleinthis ; the country through I shallconfine thenmakesa partialrevolution in a backward more tothis myremarks variety. looper particularly when In thismachine, intended forheavy a straight a loopoftheunderthread round direction, work, leaving aneyenearthepoint, isearned theneedlehas withdrawn from (needle, having bya verti-the needle. Before anup-and-down towhich andpasses calslide, ofthelooper isimparted motion returns, by thefabric againthepoint lever driven from a cambeneath which theloopof theneedlethread, a bellcrank thetableor through loophas beenopened it bya partial inthemeantime to receive theneedle isattached cloth makes, plate.Inthelighter limb riseoftheneedle.Theneedle ofa vibrating then withdraws totheupper from direct andisslightly the lever, whilst tocorrespond tothearcdescribed which isfedforward onestitch thelooper curved bytheendofthe fabric, motion anopenloopoftheunder isimparted lever.A vibrating tothislever bya remains stationaiy, presenting inreadiness oftheneedle. in a slotinthefront forthenextdescent югапк endofthelowerthread pinworking feedalready is propelled limbof the leverbeneath thebedplate. In con-The fabric bythefour-motion withtheneedlethereis a second described. As an objection hasbeenraised this instrument, against junction onthescore ofitsgreatconsumption which ofthread calleda looper, or of a machine maybe either straight thelowerreel,itisbutfairto point outthatthis andis situate curvilinear belowtheclothplate.from form, counterbalanced andlooperareeachsupplied Theneedle witha threaddefect extent, is,toa great bythesaving thefactthatanentire reelofthread obtained from from reelsor bobbins, direct andconsequently may ordinary looseendsorwasteofanykind, exin theshuttle thelossoftimeincurred in beusedupwithout machine andtermination at thecommencement of the thethread onto theshuttle cepting winding spoolis obviated. theshuttle shuttle is provided withan eyeat the bobbin.In theordinaiy machines, _Thecurvilinear looper a comparaandonly contains small, spoolis necessarily and as it is short of touse tively length thread, impossible intheshuttle, itfollows thata portion upthefullquantity andtermination iswasted atthecommencement both of ofwork eachshuttle-full. The amount ina produced isconsiderably than machines time greater bythese given shuttle thatobtained reciprocating by the ordinaiy machines. a highly ornamental thread, By usinga thickunder and Baker's Curvilinear Grover Looper. butas isproduced ononesideofthework, effect braiding inordinary itis thisridge wouldbeobjectionable sewing, a considerably finer thread than andwitha secondavoided oftheb^nd, heelorcommencement byemploying another varitotheneedle.I maymention thetwoeyesbeingthatsupplied thepartbetween eyenearitspoint, " machine. as the" Boudoir known isfirst toreceive thethread, which etyofthismachine through passed grooved Wilson intothiscountry theoneatthepoint.Itwasintroduced theeyeattheheelandthen byNewton through forfamily manufactured andisspecially hori-andCo.,in1858, Thecurvilinear of thislooperis situate portion itis admirably for which anda circular close under thecloth adapted.The looper recip-useonly, zontally plate, itsloopbeing rackisstraight, motion is imparted to it bya segmental instrument, bya special opened rocating a to-andispropelled intheheavier orbymeansandthecloth classofmachines, andpinion, having bya topfeed, be driven ineither anup-and-down motion ofa driver may only.Thismachine alonga spiralfromovement having It its with without . direction onthevertical which formed oraxisofthelooper, interfering operation. is,I bespindle no driven here introduced thefirst beautiful isa very andsimple , believe, contrivance forthepurpose. alone, byfriction
JOURNAL OP THE SOCIETY OF ARTS, April 10 1863.
365
hasalso machine ma- theeighth used. Thereareseveral census, strap being says," The sewing sewing driving toan inthelasttenyears ofBritish manufacture butofAmerican andintroduced chines, chiefly origin,been improved ina revolutionary asthevarieties notsowellknown hasmadeit altogether which extent which, although perhaps andhealthofsomenotice before It hasopened avenues toprofitable strument. us, are,nevertheless, ; deserving towhom I maymention the" British Ma- fulindustry forthousands ofindustrious females, amongst Sewing " (athese, unremuneandWilsonmachine) oftheneedle hadbecome oftheWheeler chine wholly ; thelabours variety intheir machines Mack-rative the reciprocating shuttle ofGuinness, andinjurious effects. Likeall automatic " machine ofevery it hasenhanced thecomforts of powers, class, enzie,and Simpson by ; the " knotstitch articles with ofnumerous twisted and cheapening theprocess ofmanufacture a lockstitch ; Salisbury loop) (^voducmg from stitch" machine ofWhightofprime without thedouble orilknotted chain, subtracting necessity, permanently ofthecomisthefeeding ofwhich ofsupport ofanyportion means andMann, theleading theaverage paculiarity to theperofthe munity. increment It hasaddeda positive ofthecloth orpropelling bya lateralmovement andmore machines of Callebautmanent ofthecountry, wealth needle. The Frenchshuttle larger bycreating onSinger's), ofcapital andskillin theseveral modifications variedapplications of,andimprovements (mostly attheInternational Exhi-branches itisauxiliary. considerable attention towhich attracted hasitself become of themachines lastyear.Togivea description ofthese machines "The manufacture bition a rema- oneof considerable and has received toomuchofyourtime.All sewing would magnitude, occupy showan forhemming, with since1850. The returns chines arefurnished markable appliances special impulse the in 1860, thereareonlyaggregate &c.; indeed, of116,330 madein ninestates braiding, tucking, binding, establishviz:- valueofwhichwas5,605,345 dois. A single cannot twooperations perform satisfactorily, they to thevalue button-holes. machines onbuttons inConnecticut manufactured andstitching ment Athoroughly sewing ismuch andwouldofover2,700,000 machine onehalfofthewhole button-hole wanted, dois.,ornearly practical theyear1861sewing tothelucky ofthatyear. During bea fortune proprietor. production after Howeobtained his machines orsixyears Fora period offive tothevalueofover61,000dois,wereexported ina great wasexperienced in to foreign It is already countries. considerable difficulty employed original patent, andis andupondifferent thesewing machine ofoperations materials, ; andit wasnotuntilvariety introducing canbesaidto rapidly business andgeneral thatthesewing machine anindispensable 1851-2 appendage becoming and on the tothehousehold. In thiscountry commenced. havefairly which havebeensigevennowin its " Among thebranches ofindustry it is,comparatively Continent, speaking, datacanbe obtained. of the sewing statistical andnoaccurate by the introduction infancy, nallypromoted cloththevastextent andwomen's of machine ofmen's isthemanufacture toyournotice, however, Bybringing with thecotton the ingfor ranked in theUnitedStates, business hasheretofore machine thesewing sale,which - two-thirds oflabour ofthem effected andthesaving inthenumber ofhands valueofthework manufactures done, - andthecostoflabour Theincrease someestimate to form of females there, youwillbeina position employed. the ofachieving in our of thismanufacture iscapable has beengeneral machine whatthesewing throughout ofmachines at Union, thenumber ofNewYork, In America andinthefour cities owncountry. Philadelphia, in Cincinnati, in valueto nearly whilst at about300,000, and Boston, amounted in useis estimated present orover83per witha considerably ofdollars, andIreland, millions GreatBritain andonequarter largerforty thanfrom notmore Unionin 1850. The there areprobably oftheproduce ofthewhole 50,000cent, population, themanufacture ofsewingmanufacture ofladies'cloaksand ofshirts andcollars, atwork.InAmerica, to60,000 - a newbranch itsprincipal hasreceived StockCompanies, which iscarried onchiefly mantillas machines byJoint - and of ladies' ! impulse and andlargeestablishments, withamplecapital within thelasttenyears provided form areconstructed thevarious ofthemachines where verylarge goodsgenerally, furnishing parts gentlemen's ofthisbranch.They notonlyconsiderable thus itemsin thegeneral tools, effecting byself-acting aggregate establishments anaccuracy ofworkmanandnumerous inlabour, extensive butensuring severally economy employ - with hasneverbeenequalled- many offinish, which andbeauty oftheminourlargecities heavy capital. ship, alone ofcapital Theamount invested In Troy,NewYork,thevalueof shirtcollars byourownmanufacturers. athalf a million inthisbusiness iscomputed manufactured is nearly dois.,approxi800,000 sterling. annually and asmanymating of thenumerous Someofthese in valueto theproduet employ companies manufacturing of from 300to 800machines whichhavebeena source as500men, andproduce ironfoundries per extensive in thehandsof wealth week.Withus thetradeis entirely tothatcity." oflabour areina I willnowinvite tothesaving andcontractors, mostofwhom attention makers, your private bea liberaleffected in some would ofthevarious and£5,000 machine small •very wayofbusiness, bythesewing it hasbeenintroinplant.Therearenot departments intowhich invested estimate ofthecapital ofmanufacture hereofany duced nextpage.) Ithasbeen establishments than12manufacturing more inAmerica. (SeeTables, twoor proved, willperthatonemachine note, andabout 100smallworkshops, employing experiment, byactual ofhands trades number en- form seamstresses theaggregate ofatleastfive mechanics thework three each, (insome at 500. Duringit willdo considerably onehandto ; allowing beingestimated more) gagedinthisbusiness the maof machines havebeen iseffected wagesof a saving thelasttwoyears about20,000 themachine, operate more thanone-theotherfour,hi America, which islittle thepayofa needlewoman nufactured in thiscountry, we havea clear andWilsonaverages halfthenumber manufactured 50 centsa day,consequently bytheWheeler inwages in1860. a daypermachine Machine oftwodollars alone, only. Sewing Company saving theestiannualsalesofsewing In themanufacture Thereturns ofready-made oftheaggregate clothing, is York 1853to1859inclusive, exhibitmated machines inAmerica, in the of New from alone, 7,500,000 saving, city in dollars theperiod ofshirt-fronts, therapidgrowth ofthisbusiness during perannum.In themanufacture andcarried ontoa considerable branch a distinct is which question. 100shirt-fronts willproduce onemachine extent, nearly Machines soldin1853 2,509 thansix stitch more a seamstress cannot while perdiem, 1854 4,469 in New thesaving in thesametime.In thisbranch, 1855 3,513 „ dollars at843,750 Yorkisestimated perannum. 1856 7,223 is another of shirts The manufacture veryextensive 1857 12,713 in in itself.A singleestablishment, distinct business, 1858 17,589 800dozen 400machines, NewHaven, producing employs 1859 46,243 has tothishouse, in labour, perweek.Thesaving r shirts in hispreliminary The superintendent ofthecensus, dollars at240,000 beenestimated perannum, and Congress is largely ori In Massachusetts oftheInterior totheSecretary thesewing emmachine l-eport
m
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OP ARTS, APRIL 10, 1863. Sewing Machines produced in the UnitedStatesduring the Year endingJune1st,1860. чтАтя-й STATES.
NewHampshire Vermont Massachusetts ... Island Rhode Connecticut .; NewYork Pennsylvania Ohio Delaware Aggregate
Number op -_ inverted Capital value or KawAverage Hands employed. inreal and Ve. ~rof of Cost ofLabour.Number ereonale8tate l¡nc^ena tael- Male. Female. tluaing inthebusiness. Dollars. 20,350 25,000 253,000 35,000 420,000 368,200 212,500 46,200 10,000
Dollars. 25,160 8,320 61,171 6,745 162,450 212,440 52,598 36,072 2,875
97 40 509 60 679 412 240 114 15
... ... 8 ... ... ... 20 ... ...
1,390,250 567,831 2,166
28
Dollars. 39,540 19,200 244,560 21,600 443,400 132,720 115,440 40,776 6,000
Value
6,000 3,500 21,400 6,000 39,268 27,230 5,149 7,283 500
Dollars. 134,500 42,000 1,067,300 90,000 2,784,600 1,043,805 249,355 178,785 15,000
1,063,236 116,330
5,605,345
Clothingmadein the following Statesduring the Year endingJune1st,1860. °F Number invested Capital Annual Products. R MaterialHands employed. inreal and 11ЙР7 Annual Cost includi™ ' Establishon al estate ofLabour. per fwi ments. inthebusiness. Male. Female. Value inI860.Value in1860. Dollars. Dollars. Dollars. Dollars. Dollars. Maine 93 352,750 940,709 258 2,218 359,324 917,311 1,632,946 NewHampshire 67 136 144,180 334,589 1,046 212,664 616,233 669,044 Vermont 39 83 239 72,100 131,899 68,832 124,560 250,669 194 1,303,100 4,084,771 1,503 3,180 1,134,400 8,757,156 6,440,671 Massachusetts Rhode Island 65 970 268,260 422,372 1,138,086 316,700 604,831 398 57 Connecticut 337,000 782,105 406 1,085 275,604 1,519,433 1,338,985 842 8,028,81114,341,09414,576 17,732 6,265,01516,007,534 NewYork 24,969,852 667 5,325,088 6,244,185 7,776 10,152 2,911,612 6,988,49812,192,603 Pennsylvania NewJersey 137 1,592,775 2,232,145 2,224 4,922 1,164,8542,484,5943,975,436 Delaware 20 64 167 69,675 102,208 46Д76 83,602 179,840 148 1,2G6,150 1,909,676 2,233 3,779 931,056 2,694,377 3,256.716 Maryland District ofColumbia. 34 177 125,150 191,668 150 91,860 297,900 342,798 436 3,021,221 4,339,684 6,348 6,848 2,264,3522,765,232 8,615,329 Ohio STATES.
in 121 ! Aggregate States & District 2,799 21,954,70036,239,56436,155 52,515 15,994,009 43,678,80265,002,975 | ofColumbia J | inthebootandshoetrade, anditssavings arees- from thefirst thesaleofmachine ployed byHoweinAmerica), timated dollars at7,500,000 wouldhavebeenquadrupled, endless law proceedings perannum. in usein America, Of the300,000machines aboutavoided, andtheprofits tothepatentee enhanced. greatly areemployed in private fordomestic families in question sew-In1860thepatent andthepublic 75,000 expired, intheyeartoeachhavesincethenenjoyed theprivilege ofselecting those ing; andifweallowthirty days'work ofthese wehavefor a sumofup- machines result bestadaptedto theirspecialrequirements, machines, family wards of£900,000, as representing thewagessavedin themajority of whichare of American manufacture. thisclassofwork ittohavebeendoneby Fromthesefewfactsit will be seenthatthereal alone, supposing insewing trade hasonlyexisted machines heresince paidhandlabour. 1860, Theaggregate annual totheUnited States effected which accounts forthebackward inwhich we state fully saving thepreseftt inuse,is find it. Thesewing with number isnowbeginning machine tomakeits machines, bythesewing of£29,000,000 ifthewholewayinvarious ofmanufacture inthiscountry, words, ; or,inother upwards departments inAmerica ofthemachine nowproduced wereto whilst a steadyincrease in thedemand forfamily sewing beperformed a sumofupwards itwould isalsoshowing machines itself. byhand, require of£29,000,000 which to payfortheextralabour Amongst theleading branches of industry are perannum which would havetobeemployed. I maymention the tothese machines, ; giving employment thesewing machine wasin practical of shirts, dresses, collars, Although ope-manufacture stays,mantles, in thiscountry ration it had beenthoroughly underclothing before ofall kinds, coats,trousers, caps,trimin it has received no radicalmings, andboots andshoes.Inthislast-mentioned trade recognised America, at ourhands,all the mostimportant Ofthese of3,000machines arenowemployed. improvement upwards due Its to inventors. American about in of 800areworkingStaffordshire, thetown Stafimprovements being introduction herewasgreatly About aloneemploying from 450to500machines. general bythe ford impeded refusal ofoneofourfirst to grant licences a trade to 800 arein usein Northampton. In Leicester patentees makeorsellAmerican which arepre-entirely the newtothetownhasbeencreated machines, bymany through ferred to thoseofEnglish Had a moreinstrumentality manufacture. 300machines ofthesewing about machine, liberal beenpursued, to all being andlicenses ofboots thereinthemanufacture nowemployed policy granted comers ata reasonable course hasbeenadoptedandshoes.Bristol distrirate(which about250machines, employs
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS, April 10, 1863.
367
thatalthough to remark, further allusion tothem ofNorwich five establishments. Thetowns buted except among to waslongknown withtheeyein thecentre anda"newtradetheneedle about 800machines, andIpswich employ withtheembroidery connected business, those yetthey in" ready-made hasbeencreated. uppers" its general intodid notappearto appreciate machine theintroduction ofthesewing applicability. Although them notpermit would time hadtruly Mr.Alexander thestrenuous metwith said, thebootandshoetrade opposition machines ofthevarious togointoall thedetails ; suffice strike ina general oftheTradeUnion, amongst resulting thata totheembroidering machine, ittosay,with thatitsemployadmitted ithassince been theworkpeople, regard was wereemployed ofneedles a verylargenumber hasgiven ofmanufacture inthisdepartment ; thatthere ment andtwo wasstretched, thefabric onwhich beena wideframe, infact, andhas, tothetrade marked generally, impulse oneoneachsideofthefabric, classofwork,travelling carrying ofthelighter thesalvation tothiscountry carriages, and artificial of instruments manner witha number ina mostsuccessful fingers ustocompete forming enabling asthey theneedles which through, whohadalmost passed theFrench, caught manufacturers, gainedthe thumbs, the of the trade.It is andthesebeingputin motion of thisbranch bythemachinery, entire monopoly to the Withregard was produced.* and pattern athome both contractors, required byarmy employed largely Mr.Alexander ofthesewing machine, of manyregiments theclothing perhaps history beingentirely abroad, machine andGibbons' thattheFisher notbeaware itsassist-might without machine madebythesewing ; indeed, butthat ofembroidery, topurposes raisedwasnotonlyapplied which havebeenlately armies theimmense ance, macalleda sewing intowhatMr.Fisher coulditwasmodified States ofAmerica andSouthern intheNorthern a couple wasstretched which andsentintothefieldin the chine.Hehada frame, havebeenequipped never upon tobeproduced andthedesign ofcloth, required shorttimetheywere. But the sewingofpieces surprisingly toHeilmanner in a similar onthefabric the wasworked inameliorating mission a nobler hasfulfilled machine hadbeen which machine.The curved needle, of mann's herhours oftheseamstress condition byshortening a thematerial, to themthisevening, It has shown herearnings. andincreasing perforated labour considerably to it, eo thatit motion ofsewTing inthemanufactures newindustries beingimparted calledforth "shogging" the arenow mightpass easilythrough.Havingdescribed bothofwhich andofsilktwist, needles machine wenton Mr.Fothergill ofthismachine, action as specialpeculiar earned extent, on,to a veryconsiderable for thatthree toremark or fouryearsago,inanaction ofjapanning thetrades whilst ofmanufacture, branches was machine andGibbons' Fisher ofpatent, benefited havebeengreatly andplating byitsagency. infiingement of theneedleand intocourtas a specimen ofwhatmaybe brought Thefollowing example noteworthy asa sewing in thecourt andwasworked fe-shuttle-sewing, in assisting machine effected indigent bythesewing inevidence, a paperreadlastDecember from isextracted by machine.It wasat thesametimestated males, hiscontrithatwhenMr.Fisherhadnearly theSociety fortheEmploycompleted before Mr.Seton, advocate, lefthim,and vanceone or two of his workmen after Theauthor, ment ofWomen, describing Edinburgh. theretheidea and communicated calledthe" Re- wentto America, charitable ofa certain thenature society workedout in the shapeof a con-thatwas afterwards miscellaneous receives which ofBenevolence," gister thatwasso or not, ofclothing, tributions sewingmachine.Butwhether books, &c.,tobesupplied furniture, such was the evidencegivenbeforethe court whoarediligently, ofcharity tothose deserving objects to he referred on the occasion to,and withregard tohelpthemselves, butnotalways striving successfully, ofthespecification certain machine - " Oneinstance ofthewayinwhichThomas's portions says maybe given thatFisher because it wasdemonstrated a lady weredisclaimed are madeavailable.Lastsummer other things contained machine it andGibbons' offered manyofthesameelebutdidnotuse,a sewing whopossessed, machine, ofthisinvention thehistoiy ments.Ingoing toanyone.It wasaccepted, beofservice through tousifitwould iftimepermitted, contrivances werevarious which, becomethere whatmight as most are,without knowing things more tohaveexplained himself haveprepared andsenttosomehewould itwasapplied ofit. Notlongafter for, in oneofthejurors indetail.He hadbeenappointed ascertain thatthey inorder ladiesin thenorth, might the Great in included which machines, the section it before of sewing make would usea poor what they provided girl oflastyear,buton thesecond dayof his andworked itwithExhibition sixmonths, one.Shehaditfor herwith which anaccident metwith heunfortunately preandhermother bothherself asto support suchsuccess by| labours duties ofthose hisfurther ; he would tousa fewweeksvented wasreturned Themachine prosecution herlabours. to more abletohavereferred havebeen definitely onasimilarotherwise ofEngland totheborders andhasnow since, gone on that exhibited machines ofthevarious eitherthepoints oflending Thesystem errand." machines, sewing the statement confirm however, wellworthoccasion.He could, orata nominal rental, is,I think, gratuitously contrithattheadmirable and madeby Mr.Alexander ofourBenevolent ofsome theconsideration Societies, four-motion the in saw feed, which vance with out earned they be amongst advantage might possibly whicharosefromthe diffianAme-was one of theresults thusmaking inLancashire, sisters oursuffering the wasatfirst which through puckering thedistress occa-culty experienced themeans ofalleviating ricaninvention givenfurther having commerce. ofthematerial.Mr.Fothergill ofAmerican sioned bythederangement saidho this of the of operation feed-motion, I begto express In conclusion, explanations myacknowledgments wouldopenthe he hadoffered ma- hopedthefewrenjarks thesewing whohavesupplied to thosegentlemen the describing formuchwayforthevarious present them gentlemen thisevening, andtothank chines cordially in theirmacontrivances different thepreparation theyhadintroduced valuable meduring information afforded hisown consider eachwould hehadnodoubt chines ; for ofthispaper. thebest. machine that hisregret Mr.Hodgeexpressed prominence greater tothenameofthelate DISCUSSION. in thepaper hadnotbeengiven credit thehighest Hunt.He gaveMr.Alexander to theinvita-Walter Fothergill(responding Mr.Benjamin the hehadinvestigated in which manner forthecritical saidhehadcomequiteunprepared tionoftheChairman) thatitwasan andit mustbeadmitted machine, andim- sewing tomakeanyobservations uponthisinteresting andonewhich to dealwith, difficult subject ofhis extremely hadatan early ; buthaving period subject portant He was tounderstand labour much thoroughly. ma-' required lifesomething to do withHeilmann's embroidering thatin 1834 ofstating tohaveanopportunity a anxious for hadbeeninoperation a great ofwhich chines, many but, machine, a perfect sewing he couldspeakas to WalterHuntproduced number of yearsin Manchester, heentered a poormanhimself, inventors, being withlikemost andcouldalsomakesome observations their success, the to was who anindividual with supply timetotimeintopartnership from introduced totheimprovements regard were these intothatclassofmachine. not, As,however, * SeeJournal, Vol.vii.,p.318. he wouldmakeno! machines, sewing speaking, properly
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outhisinvention, andthe to thispoint withregard to these andwould machines, necessary capitalforbringing wasthatHuntgotintodifficulties withhismoniedsuggest whether thework couldbebrought nearer to the result inHunt a lawsuit took ofthetable,so as tobemore anditended theeyeofthe under place, lockingfront partner, hismachine to pieces.He worker, andsoavoid thestooping . Itwasa matter position uphisideasandknocking wenton inventing various kindsof ma- of importance, because therecouldbe no doubtthese subsequently andhismemory intheUnitedmachines would wasmuch intouse. Theywould revered notonly chinery, getmore referred to showthatbe usedbythose whogained their tothesefacts States.He merely dailybreadbythem, a sewing Huntdidproduce butitwas butiftheladiesofLondon nowhada stronger than Walter machine, fancy whilst it wasdevotion FisherandGibbons werethe another to thesewing andas withtwoneedles, machine, a machine withtheneedleandshuttle.ladiesdidnotreadily toproduce first tookupwith giveupanything they theprobability EliasHowevery hehadbeenzeal anddevotion, wasthesemachines He knew well,andthought dealtwith.He feltashamed thatEnglishmen would soonbelargely inuseinthedrawing-room as well hardly a manwhocametothiscountry as intheworkshop. havesooppressed should animport- Mr.Hodgesaidhe should i a clever which havelikedMr.Chester to witi machine, was,atallevents, inthedesired direction.Itwasseldom,havebeenwithhimina visithemadeatthecommenceantstepgained man made a perfect asa whole.ment of theCrimean machine thatanyone withtwo ifever, war,to a poorwidow andsometimes whotooksoldiers' coats sub-contomakefrom It wasdonebydegrees, generations passedchildren, - no doubta good manydegrees - at theperfect machine wasproduced, buteach tractors down awaybefore a stepto thatendfulfilled and whocontributed her owncotton individual each,finding sixpence-halfpenny as candle.Working inthiscountry from fiveo'clockinthemorning till hismission.Theyhadgreat geniuses elevenat night, herearnings aswellasinAmerica.Havinglivedforhalf-past tosixamounted mechanicians, If thepoorcreature he hadmadehimself worked fifteen States, yearsin theUnited pence-halfpenny. longat sidesofthequestion, andhe had thatrateshewouldnotonlyhavea holeinherchest, withboth acquainted butwoulddisappear as tothereason thatinvention andhowlittleharm, in hisownopinion formed altogether, inAmerica than inthiscountry. The comparison, wouldbe donebya fewhours' workat a madegreater progress machine. JournalJournal , Newton's , andeveiysewing ofArts oftheSociety tobefound scientific were thatthereason matter*, upon upon Mr.Fothergillbeggedto explain publication inAmerica scientific institution machine wasnotproceeded thetableofevery ; and whyFisherandGibbons' which atthetimewasthis Itwasadapted to thestatement wasmadewith tooneofthe he fullysubscribed the most before beautiful kinds ofembroidery hehadeverseen, -seven viz., yearsago,by Dr. Birkbeck, thirty thattheAmerican InstitutionMechanics' which atthetimewent London juniorsthelacefallsofladies'bonnets, andit outoffashion.Mr.Fisherwasthenonly19 years ontheheelsoftheEnglish of weretreading seniors, which thenephew whowasthe madehim(Mr.Hodge)goto age,andbeing ofMr.Gibbons, wasthatstatement in theconcern, thatgentleman refused toadStates. He wasnotsurethatHowedid capitalist theUnited the beautiful ideasfrom vance more to enablehimtocarry outhisinvennotget his first money drawings in machine that were tion. Bythedeathofhisuncle, Fisher cameintoposandGibbons' ofFisher given Newton's thatacuteAmerican, of funds, butthe periodhadnearlyelapsed bethat Journal , anditmight seeingsesssion machine could work for the was dethatthisembroidering patterns upon which patent granted.He,however, it might his bemadeap- termined to makeanother ofthefabric, to introduce thesurface thought attempt ofgarments andaleoto adaptitto sewing.He made tothesewing He there-machine, together. plicable hismachine thefeed andbrought two or threemachines motion, upona largescale,and set uponintroduced Itwasnotperfect, butit wasonlyfairthemto work, and ultimately beautiful those tothiscountry. produced He thenbrought his forwhat did. He hadsincefallsto whichhe hadreferred. hereally togivehimcredit anda wonderful itwas. machine andmadeapplication to thePrivy hieinvention, machine to London perfected to theimproveCouncil for theprolongation ofhispatent, buttheirlordHe looked uponthemanycontributors theirships, as having fulfilled hehadnotbeenanindustrious various machines ofthese ment patentee considering thefullcredit theappliâ&#x20AC;˘ hisinvention ofpublic refused accord whichinmaking andtoeachhewould mission, utility, cation.In thefirst Mr. Fisher hedeserved. instance, beingonlya a remark, hadnotthemeans notuponyouth, ofbringing outhismachine, wouldoffer Mr.HarryChester of to thehealth ofthe andinaddition tothat, thefashion for thatdescription butwithregard themachine itself, - particularly wasthathelosta largesum went out. Theresult thewomen whousedit. No one work people beenprolonged. ma- ofmoney from thepatent nothaving ofworkbythese coulddoubtthatthesubstitution toanysaiditseemed wasa great tobea misfortune advan- Mr.Brodriok for theoldkindofneedlework chines with towrite thehistory ofthetimein which reference tothe onetoprofess andparticularly tagetothecountry, ofthiswasafforded tohimthatsomehe lived, andan instance health ofneedlewomen by the ; butitseemed hadreferred Thatgentleman andwouldprobably be;Iremarks ofMr.Fothergill. wasstillrequired, improvement ofNottingham whathe hadseenofthese ofFisherandGibbons, from made. He thought, ; ] tothemachine atthem must its date. [Mr.Fothergillreplied, assume a j he didnotknow thatthepersons machines, working 1 asanAmerican, for wasbent reason thespine andthechest1844.] Hisprincipal was, rising bywhich position, stooping those accus-to saythatiftherewas one thingwhichAmeiicans tobethecasewith andthatseemed contracted, andperfectitwastheinvention aswellaswith themselves totheuseofthemachine tomed prided upon, beginners. itwasverying ofthe sewingmachine.Takingthe date of ofindustrial Inlooking atthesubject pathology, at 1844,it was antemachine indaily la- Fisherand Gibbons' ofthebody theposition toconsider important fromdatedby thatof WalterHunt,in 1834. He had hada largeholeinhischest shoemaker bour.Every from thefirein whichwasrescued andhisbody seenthemachine hisbench thelastbetween ; washersupporting atthe John-street, NewYork,andit wassubsequently hadswelled women prostanding constantly legsfrom trialof in an important evidence ducedas collateral thatthestooping andhe feared position washing-tub; FotherMr. which machine The in working wouldpatentrights. which thesemachines wasassumed little havea prejudicial effect oftheoperators. feed,uponwhich gillspokeof liada four-motion uponthespines it asthe A curve wassaidtobethelineofbeauty, butnoadvo-stress waslaid,buthe(Mr.Brodrick) regarded inthemachine.Thatwasthe cateofbeauty thatthespine feature it desirable wouldthink of mostimportant and of theWheeler of Mr.A. B. Wilson, women should bebentforward, anditunfortunately hap-invention anditwasSinger in thespineto WilsonSewingMachine a tendency wasoften Company, penodthatthere to andwasthefirst think thewheel-feed bendsideways ofa whoinvented also. Whatever motion, theymight machine. notliketosee apply itsuccessfully tothesewing would eurve Anygentleforward, certainly single they must haveseeninthe a zig-zag form inwoman. Hewould callattention manwhohadbeeninWashington ofspine
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY
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thathad closetotheeyethatthere forstooping, there thevarious machines Office wasnonecessity Patent sewing sitatwork at themachine ascomfort^ beeninvented from theyear1834to1863, andhewas anda ladymight a yearduring thatperiodablyas inaneasychair.Withregard tosaythere to theobjection wasscarcely proud a great hadnotbeenmade. The thatthese werelikelyto throw inwhichsomeimprovement machines many orto lessentheamount machine wasdeficient in persons outofemploy, oftheir which WalterHuntproduced there no nothaving theholesintheshuttle which was those who werenecessary were earnings, question amongst thread.If hewasnot bestinformed onthesubject of starving to produce tension thelower that,instead upon with their needlefora barecrust, thatwasonereasonwhyHowe'smachine a mistaken, sempstresses toiling in thehistory skillmight sowell. Theymust ofordinary withthemachine succeeded earna remember, person - thecomplete - however withfarlessphysical orsmall comfortable labour and of all inventions subsistence, great a dayin tenhours ideadidnotproceed andhe questioned from oneman, women, single fatigue.Many working from 12s»to20s.perweek.Notonly a schemetheCity,earned whether conceived anymaneverbyhimself buttheamount himto be calledtheoriginal wastherateofremuneration of whichentitled inventor increased, wasalsoincreased. onefirm in thestrict He knew senseof theterm.Therewereseveralemployment who, inwhich commenced four mattere Howeclaimed tobetheinventor. business, hands, they only employed Singerwhen werenowusing60 sewing claimed in hisma- butthey andemtobetheinventor oftheappliances machines, from 140to 150young andWilson madethesameclaimswithregard besides a large to ployed chine, women, hismachine, butastotheforming ofworkmen. ofthelockstitch withstaff wouldoffer thereciprocating he thought wouldnotbe Mr.Salamon oneor tworemarks there shuttle, upon Mr.Fothergill as toFisher thatHowesucceeded, and takenup the whathad fallenfrom anydoubt having invention Gibbons inventors of the others hadleftit.He thought, where however, havingbeenthe original thegreat valueofHowe's invention wasin thefouror sewingmachine.It raisedtheimpoiteit question, fiveholes inthesideoftheshuttle themachine forincreasing orde- whether was,in fact,an Englishor an andGibbons invention. Ifthepatent ofFisher thetension thethread creasing ; butforthatthereAmerican upon an enormous must havebeena setscrew fortune wouldhave attheend. InWalter Hunt'shadbeenprolonged, init,butthe he thought tothose whowereintérested machine thiswas the case. He had beensecured failed the matter Counsel to recogexamined and he thought ofthePrivy eyesoftheLords veryclosely, thatinvention It wasonlythreeweeks without mustnisethemas theinventors. of Howe'stheshuttle Mr. havefailed. Therewasanother which Mr. ago that he had the pleasure of entertaining machine andhe thenputthequestion to himdirect, Alexander had overlooked, viz.,a machine Gibbons, brought he had any outbyBachelor, of NewYork,andLerowandBlod-whether, whenhis machine wasinvented, machine ofNewark, ideaof a sewing ? His reply NewJersey.The discfeedarrange. gett, was," Notthe He (Mr.Salamon) so as to catchthefabric, wouldsaythatwasconment,withpinsprojecting slightest." wasusedin thatmachine thatFisher didnotinvent andGibbons tothatthereclusive evidence ; butpreviously lacked wasnowayofspacing machine.Thatwhich thestitches, theplanfor which was thesewing theyinvented theinvention all theessential features machine.There ofa sewing ofMr.Bachelor, as alsothefeed-wheel, formaking the theaddition wasnofeeding no apparatus attheside. He believed oftheecrew apparatus, giving thedateofthatmachine of thethread, was1848-9.Withreference tension and manyof theother applitotheremarks He wouldcall Mr.Alexander's which liadfallen from Mr.Hodgeuponanceswerewanting. theinterest to oneortwomis-statements hehadmade.It which inthe attention wastaken artisans byAmerican ¡scientific oftheday,he(Mr.Brodrick) that the patentlaws of thiscountry wouldso happened publications state that there wasa publication, nodoubt andin toomanycasesthereal tomanylegalisedbrain-theft, known from their calledtheScientific ofallbenefit notonlywere American wasexclu-inventors , which present, deprived theorgan buttheir werenotevenacknowledged ofallinformation names with topatented inventions, sively respect hadmentioned thespecifications orassociated with them.Mr.Alexander ofwhich wereaccompanied inventions, maastheinventor ofa sewing Withregardto whathad beenthenameofMr.Morey by illustrations. stated wasonlya specuas to the injurious effects to chine. The fact was,thatgentleman by Mr. Chester andgot beapprehended wentto France, from theuseofthesewing in latorin patents.Mr.Morey machine thedeformity a where ofthespine, at Clichy, therulewas,thatafter andtheholein thechest,intoprison he (Mr.Brodrick) notputhisheadoutofhis wouldsaythatthatgentleman houra prisoner was certain might after Aninspection thatrule, mistaken. ofthemachines wouldcell,butas Mr.Morey greatly having disobeyed hewasshot. showhimthatworking timesbythesentry, at themforfourorfive three hoursbeenchallenged it wouldnotproduce oftheEmperor oftheFrench, or To thegreatcredit anyworseeffects uponthespine Mr. thanthesamenumber chest shouldbe statedthathe immediately ofhours' work pensioned byanaccountantorclerk with ata desk, andtheheight widow ofthetablefromMorey's £5,000. Mr. Morey thefloor whatinvention wassuchthata person atwork ona chair Mr.Bbodrick inquired sitting didnotrequire to assume ? aninjuriously claimed stooping posture. butlie was theserrated oflifebeenaffected Theyhadallatdifferent plate, replied, periods by Mr.Salamon " Song therecital norwasMr.Wilson, ofHood's oftheserrated oftheShirt," buthe was nottheinventor plate, If Mr. wasMr.J.H. Johnston. suretheworkwoman ofthesewing wouldbuttherealinventor machine <juite Mr.Johnston wasequally bearfavourable withtheworkwoman whoHowewasa greatinventor, comparison machine thefeed thesewing without for of ordinary wasnothing. gaveHoodhis inspiration. great, Anyperson theplastic skillcouldsit at the machineand perforai EliasHoweconstructed withTo usea poetical figure, life. comfort inandgavethefigure moreworkin one hour,and of a betterform, andJohnston stepped his thebenefit of invention wasnowreaping Mr.Johnston eould accomplish quality,thanthe bestsempstress in eightorninehours.He knewinstances so been in his had foralthough rights ofwidows America, only lately inAmerica ofhis whohadadopted he wasallowedtoreapthebenefit thesemachines as a meansacknowledged, doneso in oflivelihood, he had not in but andcould, with that invention their earn two from ; country families, thePatenttothree, andevenfiveguineas in! England, because hehadnotputhis£100into perweek. He hoped of thiscountry these machines would as remunerative office.To givethemsomeideaoftheimportance prove Thomas totheinventors asthey hemight were tothose whousedj thefeedapparatus, sayheheardMr. acceptable v. them. inevidence onthetrialoftheaction" Foxwell state, Mr.Mann,following thathe hadpaidMr.Morey£2,500fora thathadbeenThomas," up theremarks Howerewhilst sharein thatfeedapparatus, madebyMr.Chester, withreference to theinfluence of certain He (M these onthehealth, wouldsaythatinmany machines of ceivedonly£200forhis wholeinvention. to thenameofMr.Morey themachines infront theworkpassed oftheoperator во Salamos)therefore objected
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therecords ofthisSociety astheinventor butwhen workitwasdifficult tocomprehend, explained appearing upon tostate that Mr.Johnston ofthefeed.It wasonly in thewayMr.Alexander hadexplained it,it became justice ofit. Therewere thatmostreally wastheinventor seven machines exhi-easily It wasremarkable understood. before them thisevening, andsixoftheseven bited wereuseful when machines understood, were, perfectly properly beena He wouldask howitwasthatAmerica American. al- simple, hadseldom wascomplex forthatwhich thetradein sewing would most machines ? His mechanical success.Hewasquitesurethey agree monopolised for wasthatit wasowing to theoperation answer ofthe inpassing toMr.Alexander a cordial voteofthanks lawsofthiscountry, which enabled a mantohold hisvaluable patent paper. andrigid andwhether a tight hewouldgrant Thevoteofthanks beenpassed, monopoly, having ornotwasentirely athisownwill. During saidthat licenses the Mr.Alexander, inreply uponthediscussion, inhisshuttle timethatMr.Thomasheldhispatent ofthesewingWalter Hunthadnotthattension-appliance than250patents no fewer weretakenoutforwhich a lightstitch formaking wasnecessary machine, ; andthat, andthewholeofthatmoney himof so-called afforded Hunthadeveryopportunity improvements, lay although as nota single deadinthepatent bothinlaw liad stating invention theAmerican hiscasebefore offices, judges, out. Werethey tosuppose beenbrought ofHowe,in thatthose 250 andequity, wasgiveninfavour judgment for themere ofdoing so? allcases, he believed.If Hunťswasa really money paidtheir practical people pleasure thatsome for oneprevented orweretheytoinfer them fromsewing howcameit thatit laydormant machine, inventions ? He should outtheir out? In liketoseean Ififteen ? Whywasit neverbrought working years oflicences account of thenumber which Mr.Thomasanswer on Fisherand remarks to Mr. Fothergill's thetimeofhismonopoly thatFisher forthemanu-Gibbons' stated he (Mr.Alexander) during granted machine, oftheshuttle mafacture machine. He didnotbelieve thereandGibbons a really didnotconstruct sewing practical wasone,andtheconsequence waswewerebeaten Howe; theynevercontemplated as such,before bythe chine, In Americans. America wasboundto the construction of a sewing machine, they although every patentee at butherehemight shutuphisinventions. machines Theremight somesewing haveproduced license, bytheir lacked another remarkable fact the them was machine wasin a laterdate. Themachines, asspecified sewing by machine. use in thiscountry it was in most toa sewing oftherequirements byMr.Thomasbefore necessary America.Hebelieved there wasnoevidence ofourme- In replyto Mr.Mann,he beggedto statethathis chanics inthose had machines wasthepriorinventor, thatBishop making anyimprovements ; but observation, inAmerica thatbesides various theclothbya offeeding found, reference they improvements, onlytothesystem there werevirtually newmachines andnottothearrangeoftheneedle, lateral movement produced byGrover andGibbs, andBaker, Wilcox andWheeler andWilson,ment hegaveMr.Mannfull forwhich ofthemachine, butourmechanics couldnotdothis.It seemed as theinventor. credit strange thatinthiscountry ofmechanical conhadnot Mr.Fothergillsaidhe himself sawa machine ability, they machine a single tocompete andit withthose of structed andGibbons' to Fisher sewing worthy patent, according America.Although himself EliasHowe, as sewed most representing effectually. an Englishman he shouldbe proud to seehiscountryMr.Alexander whenthatwas? He underinquired in this matter. andmadeit a themachine stood represented properly theyreconstructed saiditnowbecame TheChairman hisduty topropose machine. sewing a voteofthanks to Mr.Alexander fortheinteresting and Mr.Fothergill couldnotstatethedate,buthe had - interesting, hehadreadtothem becauseseenthemachine atwork. important paper hehadshown them theresult ofsomuch mechanical skill and ingenuity becauseof thegreat The sewingmachinesof Messrs.Willcoxand ; andimportant, oflabour, andthemanner inwhich Gibbs, Wheeler and Wilson, Howe, Singer, theinterests economy of a largenumber of industries wereaffected. Mr. Thomas,andGroverandBaker(Newton, Wilson, had mentioned Alexander various inventors whohad andCo.),as wellas Messrs.Newton,Wilson,and contributed totheperfection ofthismachine, ifindeed it were,by the kindpercouldnowbeconsidered Theremight bestillCo.'s boudoirmachine, perfect. shownin operation further offact, event-missionof the proprietors, ; inpoint improvement they might the evening. A model of the original wouldcomplete a garment uallyhavea loomwhich during - likethestocking without machine.Butthe sewingmachine,as invented sewing by Howe,was also ofthese wasthehistory inventors ofmenofgeniuson the table, history lent fromthe been kindly having whohadapplied theirminds to theeconomising oflaof Patents bybour.Theyhadgreatconceptions, butthey seldom or Museumof the Commissioners F.R.S. The woodcuts never those inthefirst perfected instance, but,Mr.BennetWoodcroft, conceptions as in all other worked their thepaperwerekindlylentby they things, way,stepby used to illustrate notachieving step, through greatdifficulties, frequently &' of the Practical Mechanic the proprietors successful results forthemselves, conferred although they Exhibition International the Record Journal of greatbenefits uponthepublic.He thought probably thereason machines wereof 1862. whyso manylabour-saving in America that the of labour The Secretary was, announcedthaton Wednesday produced price manual wasso muchgreater therethaninthiscountrymore the 15th inst.,a paper by Mr. next, evening he the labour of •specially,believed, " sempstresses. They knew thatprofit wasthegreat stimulus ofinvention, and GeorgeWallis, On theNewArtofAuto-Typobe read. nodoubtitwasdifficult would inAmerica togetthenecessary graphy," oflabour, andhencetheingenuity ofthepeople supply wasdevoted to theinvention ofmachinery as a substitute forit. It was also to be remarked that gjomt СдгшркМш. the working weremorehighly peoplein America educated thanwerethe sameclassin thiscountry, FIEE-ENGINES. and theyhad a morereadyintelligence* in seizing Sib, - A copy oftheJournal , of ofArts oftheSociety whatwas brought before them. That,he hoped,March tome,I perceive beenhanded 1863,having 20th, wasan inequality which wouldnotexistmuchlonger.inthesame of the results actual statement ofthe a tabular The modein which Mr.Alexander had described the steam inbyMr.King,in connection handed fire engines various machines hadmadethatwhich " sewing appeared of andExtinction the his on with paper Suppression technical and difficult to Fires."The extremely quiteintelligible Mr.Kinghas I find, ofthattable, digest whenthey sawa sewing machine at extracted anyone.No doubt attended offires from byMr. myofficial report
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS, April 10, 1863.
371
I beg grand FireBrigade, 1862(a copy ofwhich andpleasing orbefree from during .Hodge's effect, general causing theactual truth toforward of theaccumulation of excessive at certain crowds you),buthehasperverted spots; has added10feetextra those ontheresults trials-he of butif,whena general wasintended, illumination a andAraos's Easton and subtracted from the other were intoreally to illumiengine, general subscription entered makers' to enclose the nate the ofthemetropolis engines.I, therefore, you beg greatthoroughfares bymeans results truthful ofthose which alterhis offestoons ofgaslights, oranyother uniform orvaried trials, materially in statement to 1 trust the will the would be much and makers, you ; and, justice device, expense lessened, very insert thesame, with thisletterofexplanation, in yournoovercrowding wouldtakeplaceatanyonespot, while I may nextnumber. that the as a would be all afforded to those who add, results,they promenade appear, splendid form which theenclosed inmyreport, tableisan extractmight wishtowalkorridethrough thebrilliantly lighted weresubmitted tothevarious makers andtomany scien-thoroughfares. tific who were at in the order I throw out these crude with trials, gentlemen present merely the suggestions " facts."No thatthey should beconsidered other trialsviewof eliciting from better anyof your something ofthethree makers' combined havetaken whomayhavea fancy to takeupthis engines placeat correspondents I am,&c., anyother placethanMr.Hodges' ; therefore, distillery subject. Mr.King's statement must beerroneous. HENRYW. REVELEY. I am,&c., Reading. LEWIS M. BECKER,Lieut.H.F.B. .frattstreet, ■au, .Lambeth, April 4,1863. MEETINGSFOR THE ENSUINGWEEK. Mon. ...R.Geographical, C.F. Hall," Frobischer Table of Resultsop Trialsof SteamFire 8£.l. Captain Strait tobeaBay, and offive onthefate men oftfte proved at Hodges'Distillery,during1862. Engines, in Arctic the of Elizabeth.1' 2.Dr.Jno. reign "Expedition A Visit Red to River and the Saskatchewan." Rae, . Ö 2.S " OnIntestinal Stricture." °° -S* ш 8j. Mr.Gay, Medical, • "3!_э"S S 25• Yues. > cî 3 andChirurgical, ...Medical rtS g "S "S 8¿. Engine Makers'§ § .2л £ § g £ gâS 8. 1. S Civil Discussion Mr. Miller's upon "paper » äj Name. со S SS «-g1 S -gl intheSea."2.Mr. Structures on"Engineers, John DeBrunton, о 2 aa.s 2 g .2 g ^ of Line the and Works on the Scinde scription б к .a Railway." .s р< я дл g g ^ О H CG 7. Annual General S Syro-Egyptian, Meeting.^ <1 со 8. Mr.John "OntheAntiquity Ethnological, Crawfurd, ofMan." Lbe.Feet.In. Feet.In. Lbs.m.sec. •' 3. Prof. On Animal Inst., Marshall, " Mechanics.'* Royal f 120 165 197 H ,,л „ Easton,Amos, ofArts, 8. Mr.George Art ...Society Wallis,OntheNew and Sons ' 140 150 1* 1Ï 190 if 1401130 Wbd. ofAutoTypography." R. Soc. Literature, 8|. Wweitherfcf Mi 'H J| 220 l| i6e э5о Horticultural. Azalea andRose 1. Floral Royal ÖOa 10. Fruit 10.Show, Committee, Committee, 155 Ц 194 Ц I 8¿. 8 THüRS...Royal, J. Antiquaries, 187 i ( 120 174 8. Linnsean, Shand and Mason-J 1 140140 li 196 8. Messrs. W.H. Perkins andA.H. Chemical, 190 li (. " OnDerivatives ofNaphthylamine."Church, 7. Numismatic, 6. Soc.Club, Royal " OnGeology." 3. Prof. Inst., Ansted, Royal STREETILLUMINATIONS. Fbi Philological, 8. " OntheCulturo8. Mr. Frank Your Mr. Н. C. in his of Inst., Royal Buckland, Sir, correspondent White, letter Fish." inyour lastJournal inserted toregret, , (page355),appears United Service 3. R. Mr. G. R. "On the Inst., Burnell, sufficient butwithout hasbeen cause,thatthissubject ofNaval Science the 1862." Progress during year " On noticed anda committee 3. Professor Max forits Sat Royal theScience o£ Inst., bytheSociety Muller, appointed Language." consideration. Illuminations for events an are oldjoyful custom fashioned followed outinold-fashioned but ways, thatisnoreason should beextinguished, orthat whythey PATENTLAW AMENDMENTACT. not be carried in should out a manner rather in more they accordance with theprogress oftheage. Mr.White AND oftheir FOR PATENTS APPLICATIONS PROTECTION ALLOWED. over-much license complains causing butso does every and disorder, otherassemblage of Gazette 3rd ,April ,1863.] [From multitudes onjoyful orother themode occasions, though Dated 20thFebruary ,1863. - Imp. in whichilluminations havebeenhitherto lane inprojectiles for ordnance« 53,Chancerygotup is 468.W.Clark, notcalculated to produce (A handsome com.) as effects, general wellasthatavoidance ofconcentrated Dated 27thFebruary 1863. in certain crowds - ,Imp. inthetreatment street Of Fehr, 63,Fenchurchnarrow andcrooked651.H.mineral placesforwhichthedisgracefully oils. ofourgreat therichest in the thoroughfares metropolis, Dated 5th March 1863. , aresovery illsuited. world, - Improved for thewinding of apparatus Nottingham Elsey, It isnotinmany ofLondon thatilluminations of 629.J.lace parts inwarp ontothe work roller ortwist bobbin lace, net, orpublic however lacemachines. canbe seen private buildings, splendid, toadvantage, onaccount ofthenarrow streets inwhich Dated 9thMarch ,-1863. inmachinery Lancashire orapMilnrow, Imp. the 645.H.Whittles, theymayhappento be placed. For example, for the condensed steam orwaste water paratus collecting Cathedral ofSt.Paul's,withtheexception ofthedome is from where steam and the m meto places used, returning1 andlantern, cannot be seento advantage, from thetotal the boiler. absence of clearspacearround Oxfordorapparatus for maImp.inmachinery it; and thefaçade 647.J.Cowley, and bricks, tiles, pipes, of Goldsmiths' Hall cannotbe seenat all without649.J.nufacturing mouldings. - Imp. ne ir Lancashire in workIsherwood, Sharpies, Bolton, down on back in the not lying your opposite gutter, for inbundles. upyarn presses making feet from thebaseofthebuilding. - Improved, There H.Lea, arefew 651.C.ing near Staffordshire twenty Shallowford, Stone, for and thegates ofrailway crorin and none the like apparatus opening closing where places City Trafalgar-square, which alsoactssimultaneously the apparatus upon sings, such illuminations asthatoftheNational canbe Gallery signals. seenso advantageously, - Improved if thateyesore, the 553.P.Hugon, France maespecially 56,Ruedel'Ouest, Paris, for and motive NelsonColumn, werenotthere, an objectthatalways power. chinery applying obtaining E.Newton, inthe laneconstruction or 66,ChanceryJmp. ofthose horrid fanatics ofthedarkages, 657.W. putsmeinmind of floors. wooden (A laying com.) theStylitee. orpillar saints. 1863. Dated 11th March, Partial illuminations, of 661.F.Cooke, regulated - Certain onlybythecaprice inthemanufacLancashire Denton, imp. isolated individuals orcompanies, canneverproduce for the ture ofhate head. orcoverings a
872
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OP ARTS, APRIL 10, 1863.
- Imp. RueduMarche, Brusselsinmoderator for LaBelleSauvage-yard J.Cassell, ¡683. Imp.inapparatus lampe732.A.Morel, acid. carbonic and mineral generating toadapt them tothe ofpetroleum other burning D. and A. P. Welch GutterBedford733. J. oilsandhydrocarbons. Luton, Welch, lane, (A com.} - Imp. - Imp. andinreducing andbrightening insheathing shire inbleaching ironships, j665. W.R. Mulley, Plymouth and ofdyed straw. thecolour ortone straw and structures. other like plaits caissons, inmachinery for Rochdale twisted ell. J.Tomlinson, Imp. opening thMarch Dated , 1863. and fabrics. woven yarns -19 Animproved for the Manchester coatcomposition - Imp.inbackbeam 735.E. Lever, W. -673. Lancashire Roseetter, Accrington, materials and of canvas and other tomake ing preservation machines. warping andnon-infiammable. them waterproof insewing Dated 12thMarch machines. 741.G.H.Smith, ,1863. Imp. Ipswichand Huddersfleld infinishJ.W.Taylor, 675.H.D.Taylor Imp. th Dated 20 March 1863. , and in other and or worsted, fabrics, machinez/744.A.Barclay woollen, ing and A.Morton, N.B.- in Kilmarnock, Ayr, tobe-used therein. apparatus andejecting fer fluids.Imp. certain apparatus injecting ParisAnimproved bathorbathing machine 676.L. Desens, incore J. Nield A. Cheshire745. and T. Nield, Dukinfield, Imp. for water. deep adapted fire-746.R.barrels. 677.W.Clark, 53,Chancery-lane Imp.inbreech-loading in A. beatFleet-streetfor Imp. 166, Brooman, machinery arms. (Acom.) Cornwall and and subwool andother textile filamentous ing drying intreating tin ores 679.J.Polkingliorne, Redruth, - Imp. stances. (Acom.) andmatters for ores andinapparatus treating containing SheffieldAn in the 748. G. manufacture of Wilson, imp. springs. arsenic. andJ.A.Jaquea andJ.A. Greeham749.G.Coles, street-west, - Imp. inmachines 13thMarch for or Dated Fanshawe orapparatus . ,1863. washing H. and J. clothes or fabrics. J. Llanvrechva and Harris 681 .J. Fraser, Butler, i'ontypool, - Imp.inmachinery - Imp.inbreechandD. Kirkwood, forrolling750.C.wringing Monmouthshire Pryse Upper, Birmingham andother fire ofwhich arealso boat armour applates, plates arms, part improvements plates, plates, loading bridge ofiron. toother offire arms. andbars plicable descriptions in manuin fire and F. De bars bearers. 752. J. Lancashire Towerhill the 683. Taylor, Imp. Imp. Wylde, Trinitysquare, Burnley, - Imp. marine ofcement U.S. ingovernors for facture from W.H.Stubbe, New <685. York, gypsum. andother engines. Dated 21ttMarch ,1863. - Imp.infastenings innfields 687.J.H. Johnson, 47,Lincoln'sand A.Roberte, Roberts Barton-terrace, 5,Victoria-cottages, ofharness other for and suitable purposes. portions (Acom. ) 754.F.Gloucester - Imp. inappainagricultural and March ratus the Dated Uth for same. implements, ,1863. working An in the of with Strand De Brusselsconstruction C. E. 755. W. >609. lamps Groote, Imp. 11,Wellington-street, improved Gedge, for thecombustion ofpetroleum, orwicks circular burners plough. (Acom.) in of said St. and other volatile CornwallW. 691. West, oils, parts improvements Imp. schist, being Tredenham-house, Blazey, andlamps togasburners, valves. burning applicable lights, inmachinery and animal oils. night for J.W.McCarter, 4593. Imp. Londonderrysawing760.F.spirits intime AvonBradford-onindicators. отcutting wood. Imp. Applegate, orapparatus for Bradford inmachinery J.Walworth, 4199. Imp. Filbd. and Invention with Specification orcleansing and Complete, wheat, beans, drying washing Egyptian infogandOther Lieut. G.T.Key, orseeds. 786. Portsmouthkinds ofgrain other R.N., Imp. 25th 1863. March, signals.March Dated IQth ,1863. Yorkshire inapandG.Myers, 701.E. Oliver Rotherham, Imp. and from boats vessels. for disengaging paratus lowering Patents Sealed. An stove or Paris fire for F. 702. Hoyos, improved grate heating, Gazette 1th similar orother ,1863.] , April [From purposes. boiling, cooking, - Imp. inmeans for 703.T.W.Willett, 31,Charing-cross reefing J.В.G.M.F.Piret. 2784. Uh. April the sails andvessels decks2698. ofships from andfurling square 2790. W. J.Newnam. Barningham. thereof. J.H. 2808. Johnson. T.Beards. - Imp. indischarging below2699. 705.G.P.Beley, projectiles Liverpool J. 2812. 2708. A. Forbes. Bentley. and structures. vessels other line of the water navigable 2817. W. Clark. D. H. P. 2710. Cunningham. inthe construction Russell-streetGreat 709.W.G.Eavestaff, Imp. W.Clark. J.K.Hampshire. 2855. 2711. ofpianofortes. W.Clark. andM.A.Beale.2877. 2712. J.Beale A.Peek. 2894. 2714. C.F.Terry. Dated 17thMarch ,1863. 2949. W.E.Newton. V. Á. Newton. in 2728. the Strand 713.W.E. Gedge, street, Imp. 11,Wellington2950. F.E. Sickels. 2731. L.Hosch. and other for mode ormeans pictures, framing glasses, looking 2952. W.Jenkins. <fc J. Cockroft. R. E. Green 2733. objects. (Acom.) С.Socin. 2738. D.S.Sutherland. 3046. South 714.W.H.Em.ett, -Imp.2739. terrace, 8,St.George'sKensington 3166. W. Weallens. E. the and art of for inprocesses Longley. writing combining facilitating Newton. 3175. A.Y. J.J.Shedlock. 2741. tomaps, onstone, with plans, applicable together engraving T. Bousfield. 3234. G. A. 2743. which and other Vennedy. improvements lithography, specifications, 3483. F.Applegate. R.A.Brooman. 2744. orstone, orprinting tozinc for retransfers also available are 67.L.Hull. J.Durrant. 2746. from original. 119.G.T.Bousfield. A.Y.Newton. 2748. ofbrown inthe manufacture Paris717.G.DeLaire, colouring Imp 155. G.T.Bousfield. 2758. J. a com.) matters. (Partly 208.E. Strangman. B.Wilson. E.Gumbley. 2760. Dated 18/Ä March ,1863. F. Tolhausen. 225. and > E. J. 2765. Barlow,Clough, 265.J. - Imp.in Leicestershire Market 719.W.Symington, Harborough, Mackenzie. F.Hamilton. used andtreating andapparatus theprocess in,roasting of, de 2781. C. Bergue. substances. and other coffee organic A newand im720.W.C.Wild andJ.H.Randel, Birminghamof£50hasbeenPaid. Duty theStamp onwhich and Patents inglass, metals and other ofinlaying mode gold proved and manufacture ofjewellery the for suitable ina composition 1th ,1863.] Gazette, April [From articles. similar and other other buttons, ornaments, inlooms I 896.E.Heywood. for 1st. D.Crichton, Manchesterand ¡Ш.W.Donbavand Imp. April m. T. 891. April j weaving. har- 921.O.Aveling. ManchesterandR.Naylor, 722.J.Roberts, Imp.inorgans, Vandenburgh. |i 886.J.Hamer. 2nd. and April moniums, pianofortes. - Imp. inthe manufacture of 861.T.Ingram. Fleet-street 723.R.A.Brooman, 166, I forks. and com.) (Anear spoons CertainPatents Lancashire725.W.E. Taylor, Enfield, Accrington, paid. hasbben of£100 Duty Stamp the which on and beaminmachinery for winding, warping, reeling, imp. 1th Gazette ,1863.1 ,April [From ing yarn. Ashforth's 729.T. Oldknow, Imp.inthe Factory, Nottingham4th. April inbobbin netortwist ofjacquards construction employed 842.A.Morton. [ 843.W.Terry, lacemachines. LIST OF DESIGNSOF UTILITY REGISTERED. Address. Name. Title. of Ko.inthe Date Proprietor's ration. Begist Begteter. Herts. Alfred Nash 26. Malt Screen Baldock-street, 4546 March Royston, «« Phe.ps ^ham. April8. |{AaTwâŒtemBofÂrSp£^ «• <»•-