N S T
S
RUCTION
MODEL 20/21 / 23/1206/1300.
ZIG-ZAG
SEWING
MACHINE
IRDEX Adjusting Bobbin:
for Good Stitching
.........
Placement
26
Oiling
Inserting
& Threading
Picking
up Bobbin
Removing
- ..........
Thread
8
.........
10
.................
................
Instructions
Overcasting Parts
List
6
Presser
Foot,
7
Presser
Foot
Buttonholes
..................
17
Sewing
Light
21
Stitch Stitch
Cleaning
..................
Connecting Corner,
..............
4
................
....................
Fastening Feed
Machine
Turning
Darning
22,23
Identification,
Head
Hem Parts
Installing
Machine
Head
Inserting
& Removing
........
Zigzag
..................
in Cabinet
Material
........
......
Size .................
Needle
& Thread
Chart
4 11 16
11 1 t ,16 16
Tension: Thread
2,3
Thread
4
Threading:
14
Bobbin
Case
...............
8
Upper
Thread
...............
9
5 ...........
10
Lower
Needle: Needle
......
Upper
18,19
..........
15
Stitching:
................
15
Blind Stitched
Length ................ Width ................
Straight
...............
...........
................
20
Dog Control
27
Adjusting
..................
1!
Hems:
Pressure,
Reverse
...............
21
Changing
15
a Seam
22,23
..................
.................. ....................
............
................
Winding Buttons
5
5
............... ...............
Thread Chart ............... What To Do ...............
12 13
5
24,25
FRONT
VIEW
®
//
@"
q,,,
1. Bobbin WinderSpmdle 2. Bobbin Winder Latch 3. Stitch Width Control 4. Stttch Width Limlter 5. 6. 7.
Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Push Button Light Switch
8. 9. I0. 1 t_ 12. 13. 14,
Feed Dog Controi Nomenclature Plate Needle Plate Needle Clamp Screw Feed Dog Hand Hole Cover Plate Presser Foot
15. Presser Foot Screw 16. Thread Guides 17. Upper Thread Tension Control 18. Thread Take-up Lever 19. Upper Thread Guide 20. Bobbin Winder Thread Guide
BACK
VIEW
@
21.
22.
Presser Foot Pressure
23.
Presser Foot Lever
26.
Clutch Release
Regulator
24.
Thread
27.
Thread
Face Plate
25.
Hand Wheel
28.
Blind Stitch Knob {Models 21, 1300 only}
Cutter
Spool Pins
INSTALLING AND
MACHINE
HEAD
IN PORTABLE
CABINET
Loosen the two machine bed (!).
hinge
screws
under
holes
in the rear edge of the
Raise hinge pins in the cabinet cutout (2). Slip machine head onto the pins and tighten hinge screws securely (3). Lower machine head to front flap. Screw spool pins in place. Lay the plastic discs over the spool pins. Discs and pins are packed in the accessory box.
SEWING
LIGHT
(Modets 21, 1300 only)
The sewing light is located inside the face plate as shown. It may be turned on or off by pushing the light switch. TO remove the bulb, disconnect the sewing machine and swing open the face plate. Push bulb m slightly, turn it counterclockwise and remove. To replace, illustration 4.
push
new
CONNECTING
MACHINE
bulb in and turn
clockwise.
See
Push foot or knee control connector onto connector under the machine bedplate, or over the motor. See illustration 5. Push the two prong plug of the control into any 110-120 V° wall outlet. When installing in cabinet, insert grommet with cord in bedplate.
NEEDLE THREAD
SIZE
_i_-r._EDLE ISIZE
Cotton 60-100 11
Synthetic Silk A Cotton 60-80 Mercerized 50
FABRIC
Sheer cottons, Fine Laces Medium
14
Synthetic Silk A
silks
Medium
weight
synthetics
heavy duty
Cotton 30-50 Mercerized heavy duty
Medium Heavy
18
weight
Raise take-up lever to its highest positron by turning hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle clamp screw.
cottons
weight
Heavy 16
weight
weight
PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE
silks, and synthetics
Medium Light
Cotton 40-60 Mercerized 50 Mercerized
THREAD TABLE
Hold
woolens
drapery
woolens
fabrics
Heaviest
cottons
as for men's work
Heaviest
woolen
coating
so that the fiat side is to your
nght, slip bhmt end of needle as far as _t will go into needle clamp. Tighten needle into place with clamp screw.
cottons
to heavy weight
needle
clothes
NEEDLE 51ZE Use KENMOtLE needles. The size of the needle should of the thread and both should be suitable to the material.
conform
The same size thread should be used in the bobbin as on the upper machine for ordinary sewing. Never use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point.
to the size part
of the
This is the exact length of the needle to be used in your machine. Comparison with this illustration will determine t
whether the needle you have is the correct one for your machine.
Flat side faces to righ t.
REMOVING BOBBINCASEFROMSHUTTLE
lever Take up at its highest position.
1/ Pull out latch.
.°
Pull
bobbin
case
straight out.
/
t
WINDING THE BOBBIN
0 Place post. shown.
0 thread
on
Draw
spool
thread
as
0
0 Wind thread bobbin a few front to back.
Release clutch by turning clutch knob toward you. 8tart machine.
around times,
0 Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft. Push bobbin winder latch until it clicks.
When bobbin ing mechanism
is full, windstops.
0 Tighten remove
clutch bobbin.
knob
and
INSERTINGBOBBININTO BOBBINCASE_CASEiNTO SHUTTLE O"
_IP
@
Guide
onto
bobbin
Pull thread
through
Pull thread
under
Holding
latch,
center
pm of bobbin
case.
slot.
tension spring.
position
case
into
shuttle,
then
release
latch.
0
i
I,,_,,ILJ,II i
Place
UPPERMACHINE THREADING
thread
Thread Prevent by
the
the
loop
thread
up
can
thread
_n proper Release machine
of
end and
be
tension return
between
discs
of the
Control.
spool
holding
wire
will
as illustrated
Tension
thread
from
of
the
thread
past
the
top
slipped
into
Js released,
to posit_on
1;urntng pull
hook
the
and spr_ng
unti_
hook.
the When
the
spring
as shown
with
the
wire
thread
loop
continue
to
thread
place. spool
of
thread
as illustrated,
and
PICKING UPBOBBIN THREAD Rinse presser foot lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread (See illustration). Place threads back under presser foot.
ADJUSTING THEPRESSURE OFTHEPRESSER FOOT Push down outer ring of presser foot pressure regulator _See illustration). This will release pressure of presser foot. To increase pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained. For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be about half way down. When sewing multiple thickness or heavy matenat, reduce the pressure. Increase it when sewing sheer fabncs. Insufficzent
pressure
may
cause
skipped
stitches
or
difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dog or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure. I0
SETTINGSTITCHLENGTH Turn knob toany desiredstitchlengthpositionbetween 0 and 5. At No. 5, the longes_stitchis obtained.The sizeof stitchyou selectwilldepend on the fabricyou are sewing. The blindstitchknob must be on the "OFF" position for alloperationsexcept blind stitching.{Models 21, 1300 only) For straightstitchingthe stitch width controlmust be se_ at 0.
7
REVERSE STITCHING To sew in reverse, push the reverse stitch button as far in as possible. Keep the button pushed as long as you need reverse stitching. When you cease pushing, the button returns and the machine stitches forward.
FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn back about 4 inches under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabnc about ½ inch from beginning of seam. Lower presser foot, push reverse button for reverse stitching. Stztch backwards until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release button for forward sUtching and complete seam. When you reach the end of the seam, push reverse button and sew back over ½ inch of comptered seam. This is called back tacking.
ADJUSTING TENSIONS A perfect stitch wilt have threads locked between of fabric with no loops on top or bottom. Fig.
1
PROBLEM
Upper
thread
too
REMEDY
tight Decrease Tension
,.._!! li Fig.
2
Upper
thread
too
loose Increase
Fig. t2
the two layers
3 NOTE:
Never adjust
more than one number
at a timeรท
Tension
,,
','_ '_
INCREASE TENSION
When stitching is unsatisfactory as in figures 2 and 3, adjust the upper thread tension. Lower thread tension requires adjustment less frequently tension.
than
the
upper
thread
Turn
When stitch is satisfactory, seam is badly puckered,
Clockwise.
as in figure I and the cause may be
tight tensions and both upper may be adjusted. (See page 26)
and
lower
When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with a screwdriver. (See page 26)
DECREASE TENSiOH
Turn Counter Clockwise. 13
INSERTING ANDREMOVING THE MATERIAL For all kinds of sewing, consult chart page 5. Before placing the material on the machine see that:
Place material into the
under
material
the presser
by turning
foot, insert the hand
the needle
wheel
toward
you, lower presser foot and start sewing. • The presser tight.
foot
and needle clamp
screws are both
facilitate
presser
• The sizes of needle to be done.
and thread suit the kind of work
- The needle and the thread highest position.
take-up
lever are at their
. The ends of threads have been drawn about to the rear of the machine.
4 inches
and
width
14
the
controls
are set at desired
by sewing on the fabric tension adjustments and
to be used to correct stitch
of heavy
presser
foot
fabrics
lever
under
can
the
be raised
beyond the normal "'up" position. To remove the work, first turn the hand wheel toward you until
the needle
and the thread
take-up
lever are
at their highest position, then raise the presser foot, draw material to the rear and cut off excess thread with
the
you!
thread
When
cutter Always
the machine
piece of material ser foot.
Expenment determine settings.
placement
foot,
IMPORTANT:
• The feed dogs are up. • Stitch length settings.
To
when machine
Without
on the
presser
bar.
turn the hand
wheel
toward
is not being
used,
place
a
over the feed dog and lower the pres-
Always
operating
located
have the
machine.
fabric
lint into the shuttle.
fabric
under
the presser
Operating
foot
threaded
will cause it to jam by forcing
See Pages 22 & 23.
TURNINGA CORNER Stop your sewing machine thbric, Raise presser foot. tion.
Lower
FEED
presser
and make sure needle is in Turn fabric to desired direc-
foot and go on with your stztching.
COHTROL
This knob is situated on right front of machine bed. When knob is turned to the left, feed dog does not move material Thzs allows the operator freedom of movement of materml. For regular sewing, turn knob to the right. "'U" (Feed dog up),
CHANGING THE PRESSER FEET The various presser feet availabie for certain work are to be fastened to the presser IJar,
kinds
of
To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by raising the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the front. Tighten the screw using the large screwdriver and make sure that the foot is secure.
15
ZIGZAGCONTROL
To produce The indicator
a zigzag stitch, on the stitch
turn
the stitch
width control
width
limiter B upward.
knob A points
As the knob
to the numerical
setting.
is moved up, the stitch The width
becomes
knob can be manually
wider. turned
to a higher number, but the limiter must be rolled downward to produce a narrower zigzag stitch. Zig-zag stitch width Increases from No. I setting to the No. 5 setting. Straight stitching is possible only when the knob Is at thc 0 position.
Zig-zag stitching will be practical for repairing elastic garments, points of strain, binding blankets, and st_tchlng darts m mtcrfacmgs.
seaming
knitted
garments,
overcasting
seams,
tacking
BUTTONHOLES Stitch length about V__ Stitch width about 2 Feed dog control 1. 2. 3. 4.
to right
Stitch forward until desired length for buttonhole is obtained. Stop with needle on tlle left side of stitching (A). Drop leed dog, set stitch width control on 2Vz and take one stitch to the right (B). Raise presser foot and turn material with needle in material. Lower presser foot and take one stitch to the left (C). Turn stitch width control to 5 and sew 4 stitches. This method of fastening the ends of buttonhoies is eNled bartaeking. Bartaking should be completed with needle on the left side (D). Set stitch width back to 2. Raise feed dogs and sew back to other end of buttonhole. Stop w_th needle oil tile left (E).
5. Turn stitch width control to 5. Drop feed dog and bartack. Raise feed dog. It is recommended that tailor's chalk be used to determine length of buttonhole before sewing. For a firm buttonhole, tile stitching can be repeated over the same area, then cut buttonhole opening. For a professional look to your buttonho|e use an interfacing between the layers of fabric.
C
A
E 17
HEMS BLIND
STITCH
(Models
21, 1300 only)
The Blind Stitch on the operations
_8
"OFF" except
Knob position
HEM
must
be
for all
blind stitching.
1, Prepare the hem with a turned and edgestitched finish, or
2_
Apply seam tape along the raw edge with eitner straight or zig zag stitching, then fold hem as shown.
3.
Make second
fold as shown.
4_
Turn
blind
stitch
knob (black
arrow) to the "ON" position. Set stitch width at 0 and stitch length 2-3 â‚Źas desired). Then, blind stitch along fold until hem is completed.
5_
Unfold, exposing right side of material with completed blind stitching. Press hem.
_9
DARHJHG WITH
PRES51ER FOOT : 1.
Turn feed dog control
2.
Press down
outer
tion mending,
to left.
ring of presser
monogram
foot pressure
regulator,
see page
10. With regulator
In this posi-
work, etc. may be done.
3.
Stretch fabric tightly between two spring embroidery hoops and place under needle. The presser bar can be raised to accommodate the embroidery hoop by pulling up on the presser foot lever.
4.
Lower
presser bar so thread
will have some tension.
When you start to darn, move fabric back and
forth to cover darning area. Then turn fabric and continue sewing at right-angles to the previous stitching. Always use medium machine speed. You can make any length stitches d_sired. Slow movement of fabric wilt make short darning stitches. Fast movement will make tong stitches. 5.
WITHOUT
When you finish darning, raise presser foot and remove fabric. by pressing center pin of presser foot pressure regulator. Turn feed dog control to right.
PRESSER
FOOT
i. Turn feed dog control 2.
5. 2O
Remove
presser foot.
Proceed
as directed
Increase
pressure
for general sewing
:
to left. under
steps 3 and 4 above.
When you finish darning, raise the presser Turn feed dog control to right.
bar and remove
fabric.
Replace
presser foot.
SEWINGON BUTTONS 1.
Turn feed dog control to left. Place needle into left hole of button, align holes with slot of presser foot and lower presser foot.
2.
Set stitch
width
control
at width
between
holes
of button.
Test
width by turning handwheet slowly. Take several zigzag stitches sew on button, ending with needle on left side.
3.
Set stitch width control button to lock threads. Pull threads
at 0.
Take a few stitches
to
in left hole of
to wrong side.
NOTE: To make
a small thread
place a stra:ght
shank
pin or needle
when sewing on a flat button. between
the holes of the button.
OVERCASTING Set stitch width to 5. Set stitch length at 5. Zigzag stitch around edge of fabric to completely cover the edge.
raw
21
CLEAHIHG AHDOILiHG ............ Keep the moving parts free from dust and threads for quiet and efficient operation. Cleaning should be done with a small brush, never with a sharp or pointed tool. When machine runs hard or makes excessive noise, place a drop of KENMORE sewing machine oil at the points indicated by arrows. To oil top of _e machine, place a few drops of oil through the holes on the top cover plate while the needle is at the lowest point, or remove top cover plate by unsm_ewing two screws and oil at the points indicated by arrows. (Model 1206) Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine hexad.
/
22
ShuttleRaceCover
ShuttleAssembly
It may be necessary
to clean the shuttle
L
Raise the needle bar to its highest
2.
Push levers sideways
3.
Clean the shuttle
4.
Put a drop of oil on the center
To reassemble, Slip shuttle Occasionally,
of the shuttle
point and assembiy
remove
race cover into place.
bobbin
and lift shuttle
pin of the shuttle
by center
Shttle
Race
area occasionally.
race of any tint or small particles
hold shuttle
remove
Shuttle
of thread
case. and shuttlc
pro.
with a small brush.
and on shuttle
pin and fit carefully
race cover out by the center
race (see arrows).
into assembly
opposite
the shuttle
driver.
Snap the levers into position.
the needle plate and clean feed dog with a soft brush.
23
WHATTO PROBLEM
PROBABLE Incorrect
CAUSE
s_ze needte.
Improper [breading, Loose upper thread trregular Stitches
Pulling Light
Bunching of Th read
tension.
on presser
toot.
foot.
wound
Tighten not
Increase Reset
bobbin,
Rewind
Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle.
upper pull
pressure
bobbin
and
fabric
(page
5),
(page
12).
it gently.
on presser
foot
(page
10).
fabric;
7).
guide it gently.
size needle for thread
and fabric
(page 5).
(page 5).
Reset presser foot,
both
threads
back under
presser foot
{page 10),
Raise feed dog.
thread
tension{s).
on presser
Using two different of thread.
foot.
sizes or kinds
Reset thread tension {s) (page 12. 13). increase pressure on presser foot (page 10). Upper
thread
Bent or brunt needle. Loose presser foot.
tnsert
and bobbin
new needle
Fabric too sheer or too soft.
Use underlay
thread
should
be same size and kind,
(page 5),
Reset presser foot. i
24
thread
tension guide
(page
correct
Draw
pressure
for 9).
foot.
Upper drawn
Light
thread
presser
Reset needle
Incorrect
needle (page
fabric;
Incorrect setting of needle, Loose presser foot.
and lower threads not back under presser fool
size
machine
Do not puIl Choose
Feed dog down.
Puckering
correct
Rethread
Do
pressure
Unevenly
Breakmg Needles
Choose
fabric.
Loose presser
COR RECTION
of tissure
paper or tarleton ,
i
i i i
when
stitching.
WHATTO PROBLEM
PROBABLE tncorrect
size needle,
Bent or blunt Skipping Stitches
Machine Jamming (Knocking Noise)
Insert
size needle
new needle
Increase
pressure
on presser foot.
to stitch
too fast.
Start
pressure
to stitch
Rethread
threading.
and fabric
foot
(page 10).
speed.
(page 9).
Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle.
Loosen upper thread tension (page 12). Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric
Sharp eye in needle.
Insert new needle (page 5).
bobbin
Tight
bobbin
Lint
in bobbin
case threading.
thread
tension_
case or shuttle.
Check
bobbin
case threading
Loosen bobbin Clean bobbin
thread
tensEon
case and shuttle
(page 13). (page 22 & 23).
Raise feed dog.
Light pressure on presser foot. Threads kno-.ted under fabric.
Increase pressure on presser foot {page 10). Place both threads back under presser foot before
Thread
Disassemble
m shuttle.
i
,H
and clean shuttle
(page 5).
(page 8).
Feed dog down.
caught
(page 5).
(page 12L
on presser
at a medium
machine
for thread
(page 5).
Light
Improper
Fabric not Movi ng
Choose correct
needle.
Reset needle (page 5). Loosen upper thread tension
Improper
Breaking Bobbin Thread
CORRECTION
Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension.
Starting Breaking Upper Thread
CAUSE
beginning
to stitch.
(page 22 & 23).
llllll
25
ADJUSTING YOURSEWINGMACHIHE FORGOODSTITCHES When your sewing machine Insert a new needle for needle size. .
of.the
The upper and bobbin
3.
Check threading
4.
Check
the
does not sew a properly
thread
carefully.
thread
correct
tension
locked
size for the thread
stitch,
check the following:
and fabric
you are using.
Consult
chart
on page five
should be the same thread.
See page 8-9. balance.
Use mercerized
thread
and a correct
size needle
for the fabric
you are
using. Do not try this test with synthetic thread as it will not break. Begin with a full bobbin, properly threaded into the case. Set the stitch length at about 12 stitches per inch. Fold a six inch square of your fabric in half diagona!ly, forming a triangle. Make a line of stitching ½"" from fold. a. b. c.
If seam is puckered-both tensions are too tight. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric-tighten upper thread tension, and repeat See page 12, Figure 3. If the top thread lays on the fabric-loosen upper thread tension and repeat test. See page 12, Figure 2.
Grasp the stitching
26
and pull evenly and firmly until one or both threads
a. b.
If both threads break-tensions If neither thread breaks-both
are balanced. tensions are too loose.
c. d.
If upper thread breaks-loosen If lower thread breaks-tighten
upper tension. upper tension.
test.
break.
Both threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break on the same snap. Bobbin tension may be reset by the following procedure. Start with a loose bobbin thread tension. Tighten the spring screw gradually -until bobbin case and full bobbin can be gently lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin thread.
PARTS LIST All parts listed hem may be ordered through mail order house.
your nearest
When ordering these parts, please be sure to mention
Sears or $impsens-Sears
the following
references:
1. Model & serial numbers of machine shown on the nomenclature 2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here. When ordering
by mail, prices will be furnished on request,
be billed accordingly.
1
2
5
3
J
6
9
1
plate.
See page 2.
or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will Ref. No.
Parts No.
1 2 3 4 5 6
135 201201 8286 2273 4607 6741
b7 10
retail stem, catalog sales office or
6742 6743
11
6744
\
201709 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
1939 6862 6510 47 6902 3015 3016
Description Presser foot thumb screw Needle clamp Thread spool pin Nylon disc Presser foot Pack of #11 needles (Yellow pack) Pack of #t4 needles (Red pack) Pack of#16 needles (Green pack) Pack of #18 needles (Blue pack) Bobbin winder thread and top thread guide Bobbin winder rubber nng Pack of bobbin (10 pcs ) Bobbin case Shuttle hook Motor rubber belt Large screwdriver Small screwdriver
27
SEWING
MACHINE
SEARS; ROEBUCK SIMPSONS-SEARS
AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A. and LiMiTED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada Part No. 55053.