55039
I N.S
T
R U C
T
! O
N S
MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750
ZlG-ZAG
SEWING
MACHINE P/N
55039
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Adjusting for Good Stitches ..................... 38 Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot ............. 10 Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _ 13 Applique .............................................. 26 Basting ................................................ Biind Stitching ...................................... Buttonholes ....................................
11 t9 20 - 25
Changing the Presser Foot ....................... 15 Cleaning and Oiling ........................... 31 - 33 Connecting Machine ............................... 4 Darning ............................................... Decorative Stitching ............................... Double Needle .................................
18 17 28 - 29
Fastening a Seam .................................. Feed Dog Control ...................................
15 !5
Identification- Head Parts ...................... 2 -3 Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case ............. 8 inserting Pattern Disc .............................. 16 Inserting and Removing Material ................ Installing Machine Head ..........................
14 4
Needle and Thread Table ......... '. ............... Needle Size ..........................................
5 5
Overcasting
...................
'.......................
27
Parts List ........................................ 36 - 37 Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................ 10 Placement of Needle ............................... 5 Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle .......... Reverse Stitching ................................... Replacement of Belt ...............................
6 11 31
Setting Stitch Length ............................. Setting Stitch Width ............................... Sewing Light ......................................... Sewing on Buttons ................................. Sewing on Lace ..................................... Sewing on Plastic Films ........................... Sewing on Stretch Fabrics ....................... Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc .............. Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ............... Synthetics ............................................
11 16 4 19 26 30 27 16 26 30
Threading Upper Machine ........................ Turning a Corner ....................................
9 15
What to Do ..................................... Winding the Bobbin ................................ Writing
and Monogramming
.............
34 - 35 7 , ....... 27
FRONT
VIEW
®
o o @ o
® ®
O
1.
Hand Hole Cover Plate
7.
Thread Guide
12.
Stitch
Width
Control
Knob
2. 3, 4. 5,
Feed Dog Presser Foot Presser Foot Thumb Screw Thread Guides
8.
Face Cover
Plate
13.
Stitch
Length
Control
Lever
9. 10.
Thread Take.up Arm Cover Plate
14.
Light
Switch
15.
Fead
Dog
6.
Thread Tension
11.
Bobbin Winder
t6.
Nomenclature
Assembly
Mechanism
Control Plate
Knob
BACK
VIEW
¢
17.
Ho_d
_,.
Clutch
39
_u_tonhole
20.
Wheel Knob.
22.
Bobbi_
W,_der
Tension
R_verse Stitch
{.ength Control
_'3.
Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b
Upper Thread Spool_ Pros
24.
Upper Thread G_es
_5,
Presser Foot L_v_r
26.
Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew
27.
Threod Cutte_
28,
Needle
Plato
INSTALLING MACHINE HEADIN PORTABLE ANDCABINET Loosen
the
edge of cabinet
the machine cutout _2_.
two
hinge
screws bed Sllp
and tighten hinge screws Lower machine head to Screw spool pins the spool pins. accessory box.
O
under
holes
in
the
rear
11_. Raise hinge pins in the machine head onto the pins securely front flap.
_3
.
in place. Lay the plastic discs over Discs and pins are packed in the
SEWING LIGHT
O
O
The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown. It may be turned on or off by pushing the light switch. In order to operate the machine the switch must he on. To remove cover plate turn bulb
bulb, turn by swinging clockwise,
replace, push See illustration
in new 4.
light it and bulb
switch open, remove and
turn
off, open the face push bulb in slightly, from socket. To counter
clockwise.
CONNECTING MACHINE Push bed wall
the plug onto three-prong plate. Plug machine cord outlet. See illustration 5.
connector into any
under 110-120V
the
NEEDLE ANDTHREAD TABLE THREAD Cotton
SIZE
NEEDLE SiZE Sheer
cottons,
s_JkL
and
synthetics
11
A
Cotton
FABRIC
60-100
Synthetic Silk
PLACEMENT OFNEEDLE
i 60-80
Fine
Raise
needle
bar
to its highest
sition
by
turning
hand
toward
you.
screw+
laces
side
Medium
weight
cottons
Medium
weight
Silks
needle
Synthetic
Medium
weight
synthetics
needle
Si_k
Light
Mercerized
50
14
A
Cotton
40.60
Heavy
Mercerized
50
Mercerized
heavy
duty
heavy
duty
Cotton
weight
16
weight
Medium Heavy
30-50
woolens
needle
cottons
:_o heavy drapery
weight
woolens
fabrics
Heaviest
cottons
as for
Heaviest
woolen
coating
men's
work
c|othes
18 Mercerized
NEEDLE SIZE Use KENMORE conform to the to the material. bobbin as on sewing. Never
6021 needles. The size of the needle should size of the thread and both should be suitable The same size thread should be used in the the upper part of the machine for ordinary use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point. This
I I
.+
_
+
II
)
I|/
! ii
is
the
exact
length
of
the
needle
be used in your machine. Comparison this illustration will determine whether needle your
you mach_.
have
is the
correct
one
to with the for
Loosen
Hold away
the
clamp, clamp
wheel
needle
clamp
needle
with
If|at
you.
Sllp
the
as it will
go into
the
from
as far
po-
and screw.
tighten
the
+
-I
REMOVING BOBBIN CASEFROM SHUTTLE Needle at its highest position.
Pull out latch.
Pull
bobbin
straight
case out.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
0
0 Place post.
thread Draw
on spool /"-__ thread as _/_11_-_:,--_
_
..... .....
Release
clutch
by
turning
clutch
knob
toward
you.
Start
machine.
0 Wind bobbin
0 thread a few
around times.
When
bobbin
winding
is
full,
mechanism
stops.
0 bobbin
bobbin
winder
latch
,_-, ki.:::
0
Place
Push
,%,.
bobbin until
onto shaft. winder
it clicks.
Tighten and
clutch
remove
knob
bobbin.
....................... ii!i: _6_ _..... _i¸i¸
INSERTING BOBBIN INTOBOBBIN CASE ......... CASEINTOSHUTTLE Guide
bobbin
center
slot.
Pull
thread
through
Pull
thread
under
Holding
0
onto
[atch,
0
tension
position
pin
of bobbin
spring.
case
into
0 • /
case.
shuttle,
\
release
latch.
0
THREADING UPPER MACHINE
Place thread as illustrated between discs of the Thread Tension Assembly. Prevent the spool of thread from turning and by holding the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop up and pa_t the top hook until the thread can be slipped nto the hook. When thread tension is released, the spring wire loop will return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread in proper place. Release spool of thread and continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.
PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD Raise Hold hand
_Di YI
YiL::)]
in left complete
Bring bobbin thread up by pulling See illustration. Place threads back under presser
............. _]i
i
presser foot lever. needle thread loosely wheel toward you one
band and turn. upper
rotate
thread.
foot.
ii_,__
ADJUSTING THEPRESSURE OFTHEPRESSER FOOTPush
down
outer
ring
of
presser
foot
knob
illustration). This will release pressure foot. To increase pressure, push down until suitable pressure is obtained. For
ordinary
sewing,
the
inner
pin
should
half way down. When sewing multiple heavy material, reduce the pressure, when sewing sheer fabrics. Insufficient
pressure
difficulty in guiding foot marks appear
I0
may
cause
skipped
See
of presser inner pin
be
about
thickness increase
or it
stitches
or
the fabric, if feed dog or presser on the fabric, reduce the pressure.
V
SETTING STITCHLENGTH The stitch length lever controls the stitch length. Set lever to any desired stitch length position between 0 and 4 by turning knob until the indicator is aligned with the stitch length number desired. The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch. This will vary slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. At No. 4 the longest stitch is obtained. The size of stitch you select will depend on fabric you are sewing. Straight stitching is done with stitch width control on 0 setting and by removal of pattern disc.
REVERSE STITCHING Raise lever for is best to begin back tacking.
reverse stitching. Lower lever for and end most seams with reverse
forward stitching
stitching. It often called
BASTING For accomplishing quicker, more even and firmer basting, we suggest you regulate the maciline in the following manner; Set stitch length at No. 4 for the longest possible stitch. Machine should be threaded in normal manner except bypassing the check spring as illustrated. Basting is easily removed by pulling bottom thread. When basting very sheer fabrics, use a paper backing. If
you
pins. of the foot.
prefer Be pin
sure away
to
use to
keep from
pins
for
basting,
the pins the presser
at
your right foot.
KENMORE angles Also
to the reduce
will
sew
seam pressure
and
over
the
the head on presser
11
ADJUSTING TENSIONS
O
A perfect two
layers
stitch
will
of fabric
have
threads
with
no
loops
locked on top
between or
(Refer to page 38) Fig.
1
PROBLEM
0 Fig.
Upper
Upper
12
too
tight
Decrease
Tension
Increase
Tension
2
O
Fig.
thread
REMEDY
3
thread
too
loose
the
bottom.
[
INCREASE TENSION Whenstitchingis figures thread
2 and tension.
requires than
1
as
upper tension
adjustment
the
When
unsatisfactory
3, adjust the Lower thread
upper
stitch
and
less
thread
is
cause
may
be
upper
and
lower
frequently
tension.
is satisfactory,
seam
in
badly
tight
as in figure puckered,
tensions
may
Turn
J
Clockwise.
the
and
both
be adjusted.
J When
adjusting
bobbin
case,
with
It
tension slight
a screwdriver.
is
necessary
thread
tension
decorative width be
the make
to
reduce
somewhat
decreased.
increased,
the
DECREASE TENSION
ISee page 38)
stitching. is
on
adjustments
the
upper
when
doing
As the
tension
the
i
stitch should
Turn
Counter
Clockwise,
13
INSERTING ANDREMOVING THEMATERIAL
For all kinds 5.
of sewing,
Before placing see that :
the
* The presser foot are both tight. .The kind
sizes of of work
tensions
material
and
needle
take-up
have
been
feed
, Stitch desired
Experiment
dog
at their adjusted.
width
sewing
To remove the work, first turn hand wheel toward you until needle is at its highest position, then raise the presser foot, draw material to the rear and cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the presser bar.
been drawn the machine. IMPORTANT:
controls
on
used to determine tension correct stitch settings.
14
the
is up,
length and settings.
by
suit
are
properly
Place material under the presser foot, insert the needle into the material by turning the hand wheel toward you, lower presser foot and start sewing. To facilitate placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the presser foot lever can be raised beyond the normal "up" position.
screws
thread lever
page
machine
clamp
* The ends of the threads have about 4 inches to the rear of *The
chart
on the
needle and to be done.
, The needle and highest position. * The
consult
the
are
fabric
adjustments
set
at
to
be and
Always
turn
the
hand
wheel
toward you! When machine is not being used, place a piece of material over the feed dog and lower the presser foot. Always have fabric under the presser foot when operating the machine. Operating threaded machine without fabric will cause it to jam by forcing thread into the shuttle. See pages 32 and 33,
CHANGING THEPRESSER FOOT The various attachment feet to be fastened to the presser
available bar.
for
certain
kinds
of work
are
To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by raising the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the front. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver and make sure that the foot is secure.
kl N
TURNING A CORNER Stop Turn
sewing fabric.
machine Lower
with presser
needle in fabric. foot and continue
Raise presser stitching.
foot.
FASTENING A SEAM iI
j
Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about ½ inch from beginning of seam. Push stitch length control lever up for reverse stitching. Stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Move stitch length control lever down for forward stitching and complete seam. When you reach the end, raise the stitch length control lever and sew back over ½ inch of completed seam.
FEEDDOGCONTROL The feed dog control knob is situated on the right front of machine bedplate. When knob is turned to the left, feed dog drops and does not: pull material. This allows the operator freedom of movement of material, as for darning. For regular sewing, turn knob to the right, "U" _Feed dog up).
15
ZIGZAGCONTROL SETTING STITCH WIDTH lnsert between
disc _1. 0 and
! to 4, Straight or by removal When not
sewing be
4
Turn the stitch on the knob,
of
stitching pattern
with
advanced
width Zigzag
is possible dis_:.
the
double
beyond
2_,
knob stitch
to the width
desired increases
only
with
control
the
stitch
width
needte
on
setting from 0 setting,,
control
must
setting,
INSERTING PATTERN DISC i. 2.
Turn Pull
3.
Grasp pattern disc and slip disc onto the shaft. Make sure the retaining pin ,_g enters hole in disc, To start a pattern at the beginning, align the engraved dot on the disc with the cam follower _. To do this. slip the disc onto the shaft so the engraved dot is at or as near (countercloek. wise) the cam follower as possible, If the engraved dot is not aligned until
handwheel pattern disc
the
with dot
so that the shaft cover
the cam is aligned,
place a scrap To remove pattern from shaft.
of
fabric disc.
needle open,
lollower, i_|f
the
under tollow
the steps
is
in
turn the machine
its
highest
position,
hand wheel is threaded,
presser 1 and
foot_. 2, grasp
toward you be sure to disc
and
pull
discs, discs,
discs the
SEWING WITHREVERSE PATTERN DISC Your machine numbers 21, stitch control
required an extra
provided 23 and 24.
length control _; should be
Depending adjusting.
16
is 22,
upon Turn to obtain piece o[
the the the fabric
with four reverse When using these
should in the
be set upright
type of control patterns to be
fabric slightly
at
4. The position
pattern pattern reverse for
most
stitch length materials,
used, this control to the right or to
illustrated used.
on
page
17.
may need the left as Practice
on
>
i
>> !
â‚Ź
I 1
=
2
6
7
8
9
21
10
22
23
t
24 J
DECORATIVE STITCHING This machine supplied with stitches indicator may See
enables your
you machine,
are made with plate. Stitch
be changed page 25.
by When
using using
to
sew beautiful The movements
the satin stitch length will vary any the
other disc
decorative of the
fo0St, stitch width slightly depending
lengt h numbers
or width, 2]. 22,
Disc number 21 also makes the stretch stitch when on Stretch Fabrics, See page 27. It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension is increased, prevent the
the tension should bobbin thread from
and needle
be decreased, coming up
on
23 it
embroidery stitches are controlled by at
4 and stitch upon the type
All patterns and 24, the is
somewhat
This will the top of
[
used
as [or
prevent the fabric.
also stitch directed decorative the
by the
means disc.
length at of material can be length in
the to
made control
the
red mark be sewn.
with double should be
instructions
stitching. material
of various discs Basic decorative
from
As
for the
puckering
on the Pattern needle. set at 4, Sewing
stitch
width and
will
17
DARNING WITHPRESSER FOOT: 1.
Turn
2.
Press down outer ring of in this position, mending,
feed
dog
control
to left.
3.
Stretch
fabric
tightly
4.
Lower
presser
bar
presser darning,
between so
foot knob, monogram
two
thread
spring
will
darning 5.
stitches.
When you for general dog control
Fast
movement
finish darning, raise sewing by pressing to right.
embroidery
have
move fabric back and forth to cover sewing at right angles to the previous can make any length stitches desired.
see page 10. With presser work, etc. may be done.
some
hoops
tension.
and When
place you
foot
under start
knob
needle. to
darn,
darning area. Then turn fabric and continue stitching. Use medium machine speed. You Slow movement of fabric will make short
will
make
long
stitches.
presser foot and remove fabric. Increase down inner pin of the presser foot knob,
pressure Turn feed
WITHOUT PRESSER FOOT: 1.
Turn
2.
Remove Proceed
3.
dog
control
to left.
presser foot. as directed under
When you finish darning, presser foot, and increase right.
18
feed
steps
3 and
raise the pressure
4 above.
presser foot lever for general sewing.
and remove Turn feed
fabric, Replace dog control to
SEWING ONBUTTONSu.. d,.o Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold securely. Drop feed dog. Turn hand wheel by hand until needle point is just above button. Adjust stitch width so that needle will align with a hole of button. Turn hand wheel again by hand so that needle goes into second hole, readjust stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times, turning hand wheel manually. Finish sewing with an extra 2 inches of thread, draw thread to reverse side and tie securely. li using
a 4 hole
button
repeat
the
above
procedure.
@
NOTE: To make a small thread shank when sewing on a flat button, place a straight pin or needle between the holes of the button.
O
BLINDSTITCHING Disc _ 2 Stilch Stitch
O
width 2 _May length 3
vQry depending
with
a turned
of materiol]
1.
Prepare the [inlsh, or
2.
Apply seam tape straight or zigzag
3.
Turn hem and baste about _ inch from the edge of the seam tape using longest stitch on the sewing machine.
4.
Fold along
5.
Remove basting and press hem. may be eliminated in a straight
garment garment
hem
on type
along the stltching.
and
raw
edge
back along basting fold using disc _ 2.
llne
The hem.
edgestitched with
and basting
either
stitch step
19
Use
BUTTONHOLES
(Models 68, 95, 1600, 1650, t651, 1652)
disc
_: I
and
special
buttonhole
_oot
Stitch tength at red mark Buttonho[e control knob F Feed
dog
cantrol
U
Place the fabric, with the buttonhole length marked at both ends, under the buttonhole foot. Without lowering the foot, let the needle pierce the fabric at the beginning of the buttonhole. Set the foot so the beginning of the red zone _closest to the needle_ is at the mark of the opposite end of the buttonhole. Lower the foot. Stitch forward until the needle reaches the red zone on the front edge of foot, Then turn the knob to R, and stitch the other side of the buttonhole. Turn knob back to F to finish end of buttonhole. The speed with which the knob is turned determines the number of stitches at the ends of the buttonhole. The slower the knob is turned, while sewing, the more stitches are formed. See page 21. Reproduction of identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole foot. These graduations are 1/8 inch apart. Just mark the starting points of the buttonholes, let the needle pierce the fabric and set the index mark CA_ on the upper portion of the foot at the same graduation mark CB_ as it was set for the first buttonholeo Lower the foot, Follow the procedures outlined above. Always make a practice garment, using a double in garment.
buttonhole thickness
on a scrap of fabric used of fabric, and an interfacing
in the if used
The stitch length may be varied slightly by the stitch length control lever within the 0 to 1 range. To increase forward stitch move this lever from the red mark toward 1, to decrease move it toward the 0. The buttonhole reverse stitch length control _C_) is used to match the length of the reverse stitches with the forward stitches. Turn the dial to the minus direction for shorter stitches; to the plus direction for longer stitches. These settings may vary depending on the type of fabric used,
2O
Position
V
1
Step
1
Position
v
V
F
2
Step
2
v
¸
R _
_••:
A"_
rr/
:a.
<<
<<
<
<< << <<
21
BUTTONHOLES
Use disc _ 1 Stitch
(Models 96, 17501
width
Feed dog control-Lef_ knob- about
1_
@
I!
Covet
plate for butlonholes
0 i,4!_
/-
Remove and
insert
plate.
,__:/i
regular
Covet"
cover
buttonhole
l_Jo I a
plate cover
Select snap
desired into
guide
template plate,
and
Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole.
Screw
guide plate on machine Drop guide with template
22
â&#x20AC;˘ "
pinion
gear,
guide
into guide bed.
pin
on
pin hole
plate into place fitting over the
HINTSFORPERFECT BUTTONHOLES
O
O
Mark
the
buttonhole with chalk
ii!__
_:!
position
;: :
facing of a firm fabric. Use cambric or taffeta between woolens
and
thread
through
guide plate and draw toward back. Place
threads material
on
the
guide
presser foot Buttonhole
plate. and will
start be
Drop sewing. formed.
The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch Length knob so it may be set on any
rayons-organdy
or lawn between and sheer fabrics,
light
Use
scissors
or
to
cut
buttonhole
buttonhole up bobbin
each
Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interi ,_ ;:
Pick
o[
on the garment or a line of basting.
buttonhole
cutter
weight
open.
An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole
Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the
cover
provide
garment.
of
A wider
stitch
width
desirable fabrics.
on
heavy
plate
wilt
smooth operation buttonhole maker.
your
may
be
weight
position.
23
BUTTONHOLES (Model
0
t654)
Use disc # 1 Stitch width knob- about 1
0
_[uidepinhol!
_
pinL0__ear
Remove regular cover plate and insert buttonhole
Feed dog control- Left Cover plate for buttonhotes
cover plate,
Screw guide pin on guide plate into guide pin hole on machine bed. Select desired size of buttonhole by turning disc as shown above. Length of buttonhole appears in window on top s{de of guide plate.
Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole, Screw guide pin on guide ptate into guide pin hole on machine bed. Drop guide plate into place with template fitting over the pinion gear.
24
HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES
O
O
Mark the position of each buttonhole on the garment with chalk or a line of basting. Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interfacing of a firm fabric, Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and rayons-organdy or lawn between light weight and sheer fabrics. Use buttonhole buttonhole cutter hole open.
Pick up bobbin thread thraugh guide plate and draw threads toward back. Place material on the guide plate, Drop presser foot and start sewing, Buttonhole will be formed. The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch tength knob so it may be set on any position,
An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole cover plate will provide smooth operation of your buttonhole maker,
to
scissors or cut button-
Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the garment, A wider desirable fabrics.
stitch on
width heavy
may be weight
25
APPLIQUEu_o,,,_:,1 Baste cutout 4, Set stitch
applique to fabric, length at the red
plate. Zigzag stitch ing the raw edge,
around
Set mark
applique
stitch width 2 to on the indicator completely
cover-
SEWING ONLACE uso,_o_1 Set stitch width to 2. Set stitch length to 2 or 3. Place fabric under the presser foot anti position lace inch from edge of fabric, Position fabric and lace so that stitching
right stitch catches left edge of lace, so that edge of lace is overcast.
Continue
STRAIGHT ORTHREE-CORNERED TEAR U_e disc _ 6 Stitch width 4 Stitch [ength at red mor_
Position
tear
under
needle
and
stitch
along
ght tear catching sides of material. When three cornered tear, stitch from each end
26
the
strai-
mending to center.
a
OVERCASTINGu. d_s° ;_ Set stitch width to 4. Set stitch length Zigzag stitch around raw edge of fabric cover the edge.
to about 3. to completely
f.
WRITING ANDMONOGRAMMING U_e d.: _1 i iill _
Free hand Stitch width 0 to 4 Feed dog control Left Draw initials or words fabric into embroidery either zigzag or straight foot. Set stitch width as desired. Slip hoop lower presser bar and thread through fabric. along marked outline, hands,
to be sewn on fabric and fit hoops. Writing is done with stitching. Remove presser for straight or zigzag stitches and fabric under the needle. take one stitch to raise bobbin Using a medium speed, stitch guiding fabric carefully by
!
ii!!!iiiiiiiilZiiiiiiiii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
SEWING ONSTRETCH FABRICSu_o_,o_2, Stitch width 0 Stitch lenglh 4 Use with knitted fabrics and stretch fabrics. Sew as you do straight stitching. Machine will make triple lock stitches back and forth. The seam can be pressed open without breaking thread.
27
DOUBLE NEEDLE
1. SETTING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Raise clamp
the needle bar to its highest screw. Hold double needle
from you. clamp, and
Slip the needle tighten the screw.
as
position assembly far
as
it
and with will
loosen needle flat side away go
into
needle
2. THREADING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Place
a spool
of thread
on
each
through upper thread guides. of tension dis_:s of the thread
spool
pin.
Draw
both
Pass a thread between tension assembly.
threading as you would for single double thread guides are provided.
threads each set Continue
needle sewing except where Draw one thread through
each side of the double thread guides and from front to back. Pull several inches Thread bobbin and pick up bobbin thread sewing.
through each needle of thread through. as for single needle
3. THREAD SELECTION When using double needle do not set stitch width higher than 2½ setting.
Use size ing.
28
only mercerized sewing thread is recommended
thread size 50 or finer. The same for both upper and lower thread-
4. STITCHING All
decorative
Before
by turning fabric stitch
patterns
starting
any
the
without width
are
possible
stitching
handwheel
with
operation,
double
check
manually.
Needle
touching presser foot control must not be
needle.
needle
drop
should
and needle advanced
enter
plate. beyond
The 23
setting.
5. TURNING A CORNER To
turn
needle, the
a stop
fabric.
turn, presser in the
lower foot new
square stitching Raise
corner
when
with
the longer
the
presser
presser
foot
again,
complete
and
stitching needle
foot, take the
with tip just
shift one
turn,
fabric
stitch. and
begin
a
t
double piercing half
Raise
the the
stitching
direction.
29
SYNTHETICS Your KENMORE will sew all the new fabrics of synthetic fiber, such as nylon, *Orion, _ _Dacron, rayon, acetate, blends o| these, and combinations of synthetic and natural gibers. When stitching a fabric of hlended or cnmbined fibers, handle it as you would a material of the fiber present in the [arRest percentage. For example, a fabric woven of 60% Orlon and 40% silk should be handled as one made entirely of Orlon. When stitching a fabric that is over 50% synthetic fiber, remember: a.
_elect patterns of the loose fitting type with sleeves, because most synthetic fiber fabrics wltil steam pressing, and are not absorbent,
b.
Use
a s_'nthetic
c,
Use
a fine
d.
Wind the bobbin in ween tension discs. bobbin.
e,
Choose
f_
Check thread ten,ions by sewing on a double fabric to be used. Usually the upper thread loosened. Sometimes both bobbin and upper must be loosened _pages 12, 13L
the
cap cannot
or
kimono eased
he
thread.
needle
stitch
as
recommended
in
chart
the usual way, but do Guide thread by hand
length
that
gives
the
on
page
5.
not pass thread betfor a smoothly wound
most
satis|actory thickness tension thread
seam. of the must he tensions
SEWING ONPLASTIC FILMS Set the Use a together corners _Trademark polyester
3O
machine with normal thread tensions fine needle and mercerized thread. with cellophane tape or pape_ clips slightly rounded rather than square, tot fiber,
Dupont's
Acrylic
fiber.
and a large size stitch. Hold plastic pieces rather than pins. Sew
_Trademafk
for
Dupont's
REPLACEMENT OFTHEBELT Push motor against machine and remove belt from motor pulley. Let motor down gently. Pull belt out over hand wheel. Install new
belt
reversing
the
above
procedure.
CLEANING ANDOILING Keep
the
thread Cleaning When
moving
machine
noise, place machine oil A, B, & C.
Swing points
Fig.
parts
free
from
dust
and
for quiet and efficient operation. should be done with a small brush. runs a at
hard
or makes
drop of KENMORE the points indicated
i
excessive sewing in figs.
hinged face cover plate open to indicated at end o{ machine head.
!
oil
A
3_
t!_ at top of machine head. To _,_: take disc out from machine, :_ and lifft cover.
It
may
1.
be
necessary
to
clean
remove remove
the
cover too
shuttle
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove bobbin ca_,e. Push levers sideways from the shuttle assembly and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out by the center pin.
2.
32
plate, screws F;o. B
area
occasionally. 3.
Clean small brush.
the shuttle particles of
4.
Put a drop of of the shuttle _see arrows),
race thread
of
any with
oil on the center and on shuttle
lint or a small pin race
To reass_mble, hold shuttle by center pin and fit carefully into assembly opposite the shuttle driver. Slip shuttle race cover into place. Snap the levers into position. Occasionally, remove the needle plate and clean feed dog with a soft brush. Shuttle
Race
Cover
Shuttle
Shutlle
Race
33
WHAT TO DO i=
'1II
II
PROBLEM
irregular Stitches
size
Improper
threading.
I
upper
Pulling
Breaking Needle
I
needle.
choose
Light
pressure
an
Loose
presser
fao_,
wound
Pulling fabric, Incorrect size Incorrect
tension.
presser
foot.
Bunching of
!
Thread
bobbin.
end
drown
back
Feed
dog
Incorrect
Puc_:ering
34
pull
increase
needle
_page
thread
pressure
guide
_page
_page
Do not pull fabric; Choose correct
of needle.
threads
under
both
threads
Raise
feed
dog
Reset
thread
(page
5_.
_page
12_.
Foot
(page
10)_
it gently. for thread
and fabric _page
5).
5].
back
15_.
under
presser
foot
Cpage
10_.
foot.
down,
thread
guide
size needte
Draw
fabric
7_.
Reset needle _page
not
presser
and
15_.
Beset presser foot _page
lower
thread
it gently.
on presser
foot
bobbin
For
9_.
tension
fabric;
presser
Rewind
needle.
setting
Upper
upper
Do
not
size
machine
Tighten
Reset
Loose presser foot.
:I
correct
Rethread
thread
m
CORRECTION
fabric.
Unevenly
ii
CAUSE
Incorrect
Loose
'i
.
PROBABLE
tension_s_.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Increase
Using two different kinds of thread.
Upper
_page
15_,
tension_s_
pressure
on
_pages
presser
12,
Foot
13_.
_page
10_.
sizes or t_reod
and
Bent or blunt needle,
Insert
new
Loose presser foot.
Reset
presser
Fabric too
Use
sheer or too soft.
underlay
needle foot
bobbin _.page _poge
oF tissue
thread
should
be
same
size
5_. 15_.
paper
or
tarlatan
when
stitching.
and
klnd.
WHAT TO DO ,.
i
ii
i
i n
i
i
i
i
I II
PROBLEM
PROBABLE
Skipping
IncOrreCt
size
Ben_, or
b{unt
Incorrect
I
II
[
I I
IIIII III
ill
II
CAUSG
neecl_e.
Choose
need{e.
Insert
new
need|e,
Reset
need|e
tension,
Loosen
setting
of
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
Illill
I
I
CORRECTION
correct
size
needle
needle
_'page
_poge
for
thread
and
|abric
_page
5_.
Fabric
_poge
5_.
57,
5_.
Stitches Tight
upper
Light
pressure
Starting
to
_mproper Breaking Upper Thread
Tight
stitch
upper
Sharp
on presser
too
foot,
|ast,
threading,
Incorrect eye
tension.
needle.
in
case
threading
thread
Increase
pressure
Start
stitch
to
_poge
presser
foot
a
medium
speed.
at
upper
Choose
correct
Check
tension
on
machlne
Loosen
Insert
needle.
bobbin
upper
Rethread
thread
size
Improper
Breaking
thread
new
ipage
thread
needle
bobbin
needle _page
case
10_.
91 ,
tension
size
12_, _'page
:_poge for
12_.
thread
and
5_.
threading
_poge
8_.
_page
13_.
Bobbin
Thread
Tight Lint
bobbin in
Feed Fabric
not
Moving
Machine Jamming _Knocking Noise_
bobbin
dog
Light Threads
Thread
thread case
tension. or
shutt|e.
on
knotted
caught
Clean
Raise
down.
pressure
Loosen
presser under
in
shutt{e.
_oot,
fabric.
increase
bobbin babbln
feed
thread
c<_se csr_
dog
;page
pressure
Place both to stitch,
Disc_ssemble
tension
and
(pages
32, 33t.
151.
on
threads
shuttle
presser back
cleon
foot
under
shuttle
_page presser
_pages 32,
_0_. foot
before
beginning
33).
35
PARTS
LIST
All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons- Sears retail store, catalog sates office or mail order house.
@
@ @
@ @
36
@
@
ÂŽ
@
Whenordering theseparts,pleasebesureto mentionthefollowingreferences : 1. Model& serialnumbers of machine shownonthenomenctature plate. Seepage2. 2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here. When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will be bilged accordingly.
Ref. No=
Par s No.
Description
Ref. No.
_tion
Ref. No.
17980
Shuttle
hook
2
26929
Needle
clamp
3 4
F502 6510
Bobbin Bobbin case
5
6797
Light bulb
6
30!5
7 8
3076 26841 26842
Pattern disc
No. 2
15
740
26843 26844
Pattern disc No. 3 Pattern disc No, 4
16 17
9363 6870
Zigzag presser foot Satin stitch foot
26845
Pattern disc No. 5
18
135
Presser foot thumb
26846 26847
Pattern disc No, 6 Pattern disc No. 7
19 20
6902 6864
Motor rubber belt Needle threader
26848
Pattern disc No. 8
2I
6854
Buttonhole
26849
Pattern disc No, 9
22
8939
1-1!16"
Keyhole
template
26850
Pattern disc No, 10
8940
1-1/16"
Regular
template
2t_6t 26862
Pattern disc No. 21 Pattern disc No. 22
8941 8942
!3t16" Regular template 5/8" Regular template
26863
Pattern disc No. 23
_293
6! 16" Reguatr
26864
Pattern disc No, 24
9
6745
No. 11 Single needles
in yellow
9022
1/2" Regular
template
6742
No, 14 Single needtes
in red case
9023
3/8"
Regular
template
6743 6744
No, 16 Singte needles No. 18 Single needles
in green case in blue case
5/8"
Keyhole
23
9020 9181
Buttonhole
cover plate
11
1939
Bobbin winder rubber
ring
24
9_62
Buttonhole
guide plate
Large screw driver
12
2273
Nylon
25
32736
Buttonhole
guide plate
Small screw driver Pattern disc No_ 1
13 14
8286 1222
Thread spool pin Bobbin winder tension
needle in ivory case
Straight
ayelel 9021
disc
15/16"
case
PartsNo.
6741
Double
10
PartsNo.
1
template
disc
stitch foot
,_crew
foot
template
end
temptate Regular
template
37
ADJUSTING When
your
sewing
YOUR machine
SEWING
does
not
sew
MACHINE a properly
locked
The upper and bobbin thread should be matched in size and type. Check threading carefully, See page 9. Check the thread tension balance. Use mercerized thread, and for the fabric you are using. Do not try this test with synthetic break.
c.
fabric
into the case. of your fabric fold.
the if if If If
stitching
and
pull
with
both threads break-tensions neither thread breaks-both upper thread breaks-loosen lower thread breaks-tighten
a snap
to
make
threads
are balanced. tensions are too upper tension. upper tension.
you
the
following:
are
using.
a correct size needle thread as it will not
Set the stitch in half diagonally,
If seam is puckered-both tensions are too tight. If the bottom thread lays on the fahrictighten upper thread test. See page 12, Figure 3. If the top thread lays on the fabric-loosen upper thread test. See page I2. Figure 2.
Grasp a. b, c. d.
and
STITCHES
check
2. 3, 4.
bobbin, properly threaded per inch. Fold a 6 _ square a line of stitching _'_ from
thread
stitch,
Insert a new needle of the correct Consult chart on page 5 for'needle
a. b.
the
GOOD
1.
Begin with a full about 12 stitches a triangle. Make
size for size.
FOR
tension, tension,
length at forming
and
repeat
and
repeat
break.
loose.
oth threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break on the same _ap. obbin tension may be reset by the following procedure. Start with a loose bobbin thread msion. Tighten the spring screw gradually until bobbin case and full bobbin can be gently lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin thread.
38
39
_[
40
]1_._[
0
SEWING
MACHINE
SEARS, ROEBUCK SIMPSONS-SEARS
AND CO., Chicago, IL I U.S.A. and LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada Printed
in Japan
Part No. 55039
9/91