OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MODEL
MACHINE 385.
17622
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You
have just
invested
in a very
please pause for a moment and care for your
Specific
fine
machine.
read this booklet
Before
which
using your
contains
new Kenmore
instructions
on how
machine, to operate
machine.
instructions
are given
obtain
the best sewing
Advice
on the
results
operation
on threading, and avoid
if you
have questions
the model
and serial number
tension
adjustments,
unnecessary
and care of your
Please remember, number
zigzag sewing
and carefully
machine
about
when
cleaning,
service expense
is always
your
available
machine
oiling,
etc. This will
for conditions
at your
or need parts
beyond
help you
our control.
nearest Sears Retail and service,
Store.
always mention
you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine Z "
Record
in space
number
of
are located
this
provided appliance.
below
the
The model
on the nomenclature
model number
number
and
and serial
plate,
as identified
Serial
No.
serial
number
on Page 4 of
this booklet. Model
No. 385.
Retain
these numbers
THIS
MODEL
for future
IS A CENTER
reference.
NEEDLE,
LOW BAR
SEWING
MACHINE.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Your
sewing
machine
Read all instruction
is designed before
and constructed
using this sewing
4.
Never
only for HOUSEHOLD
use.
5.
Never
6.
Do not
7.
Do
not
oxygen reduce the risk of electric
1.
An appliance unplug
this
and before 2.
should
the
electric
outlet
plugged
immediately
3.
Do not reach immediately.
4.
Do not place
1.
Do not
before
for
relamping.
the
Replace
appliance
that
bulb
with
has fallen
or store
appliance
where
Do not place
in or drop
into water
allow
Use this
to
be used as a toy.
Never working
center
9.
using
same type
into
it can fall
water.
or be pulled
or other
rated
Close attention
air
opening
and foot
blocked.
controller
Keep free from
dust, and loose cloth. any object
into any opening.
use outdoors. operate
where
aerosol
(spray)
products
are being used or where
is being administered. turn
all controls
to the
off
('0")
position,
then
appliance
only
operate
this
properly, Return
for
its intended
recommended
appliance
if it has a damaged
if it has been the appliance
for examination,
repair,
use as described
by the manufacturer
dropped
to the
nearest
electrical
cord
or damaged, authorized
or mechanical
in this manual. as contained
or plug,
if it is not
or dropped dealer
in
into
or service
adjustment.
remove
outlet. unplug
fingers
by pulling
away
the sewing
on cord.
from
all
machine
To unplug,
moving
parts.
grasp the plug, not
Special
care
the
is required
needle,
Always use the needle to break.
proper
12.
Do not use bent
needles.
13.
Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14.
Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15.
Always
fire, electric shock,
when this
any
11,
liquid.
is necessary
Keep around
Unplug
into a tub
of lint,
To disconnect,
Do not cord.
with
of the sewing machine
needle
unplug the sewing
plate.
The wrong
plate
can cause the
machine from the electrical outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
is used by or near children.
Use only attachments this manual.
water.
after
to persons.
appliance 2.
Always
10.
WAR N IN G- To reduce the risk of burns, orinjury
in.
cleaning.
Always unplug 15 Watts.
or sink.
from
when
appliance
drop or insert
plug from
never be left unattended
appliance
8.
shock;
the
openings
accumulation
machine.
DA N G ER- To
operate
ventilation
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
TABLE •OF CONTENTS SECTION
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. Locate and Identify the Parts .................. Identify the Accessories ........................
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
3 3_4 4
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_7 • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 5 • Foot Control Use .......................... 5 • Setting Spool Pins .......................... 6 • Adjust the PresserFoot Lever .................. 6 • Thread Cutter ............................ 6 • Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table , , . 7 • Accessories Storage Box ...................... 7 • Change the Presser Foot ...................... 7 Choose the Needle and Thread ................. 7_8 • To Change the Needle ....................... 7 • Check the Needle .......................... B • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ...... 8 Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 9_10 • To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ...... 9 • Windthe Bobbin ....................... 9_10 • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ........... 10 Prepare the Top Thread ..................... 11_12 • Thread the Needle ........................ 11 • Pick Upthe Bobbin Thread .................. 12 Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 13_14 Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 14 Stitch Selector ............................. 15 Stitch Length Control ........................ 16 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. 16 Starting To Sew ............................ 17 SECTION
3.
Zigzag Stitches ........................... • Basic Zigzag ............................. • Satin Stitch ............................. • Applique ............................... • Bar Tacking ............................. • Sew a Button ............................ • Overcasting Stitch ......................... • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... • Blind Hemming .......................... • LaceWork .............................. • Shell Stitching ........................... • Box Stitching ............................ • Fagoting Stitch .......................... • Decorate with Geometic Patterns ............... Stretch Stitches .......................... • Straight Stretch .......................... • Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ • Smocking .............................. • Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ • Elastic Stretch Stitch ....................... • Herring Bone Stretch ....................... • Decorative Stretch Patterns .................. Buttonbholes ............................ SECTION
SECTION
Turna Square Corner ...................... Topstitching ............................ Left Needle Position .......................
1B 19 lg
• • •
Sew in a Zipper ........................ Use the Darning Plate ...................... Darning ...............................
20_21 22 22
"!
PROBLEMS CHART
5.
, • ........
38_39
CARE FOR THE MACHINE Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... Cleaning the Machine ...................... • Clean the Feed Dogs ....................... • Cleanthe Shuttle Race ..................... Oiling the Machine .......................... • Oil behing the Face Cover Plate and Under Arm Cover Plate .......................... • Oil the Underside .........................
18_22 18 18
• • •
PERFORMANCE
What to Do When ...............
LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches .......................... • . Straight Stitch ........................... • Usethe Seam Guides .......................
4.
23_31 23 23 24 24 25 : 26 27 28 29 29 30 31 31 32_35 32 32 33 33 34 34 35 35 36_37
40 40_41 40 41 42 42 42
PARTS LIST ........................................
43
INDEX
44
............................................
SECTION A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A
full
nearest
line
of
Sears
sewing retail
cabinets store
or
is available through
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE
Locate and Identify the Parts at
our
your
general
catalog. Another your
option Kenmore
. . . buy goes
a Carrying
anywhere,
can
.where.
Case be
Take-up
Lever
Bobbin
Winding
stored
any-
Thread
Selector
Top
%
Upper
Thread
Guide
Spool
Pins
. , . then
Thread
Tension
Tension
Disc
Release Bobbin
\
Winding
Spindle
Length
Control
Stitch
Control
Stitch
Selector
Control Stitch
Face Cover
Plate
Thread
Cutter
Needle
Plate
Reverse
Shuttle
Extension (Accessory
Table storage
box)
Cover
i,
SECTION
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE Identify
Arm
Cover Plate
Carrying
the Accessories
Handle
nhole
Hand Wheel
opener
Bobbin Presser Auto
Clutch
Foot
Lever
Knob
_
Large screw driver
Light and Power Switch
Free Arm
Sliding buttonhole Darning
Plug Connector _Nomenclature
foot
plate
Plate
Zipperfoot
Lint brush Foot
Control Straight stitch foot
all screw driver Needle
Clamp
Screw Satin foot
Presser Foot
stitch
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
•
Foot Control
Use
light
Foot
Plug connector
4.
Push the light on the power
and power and sewing
switch
to turn
light.
To
FEATURE:
Before
inserting
machine,
be
the
sure
plug
the
into
power
Your
your
switch
is
OFF.
1.
Check Volt
2.
Insert plug
your
outlet
to
be sure it is a 110 to 120
machine
connector,
ptug
as shown.
into
the
It will
three-prong only
fit one
way. 3,
Insert the power
supply
plug into the outlet.
"For
will
switch
interrupted
or
light/power children,
switch
OPERATING
AC outlet. the
machine
light/power
control
you
not
operate
is turned
stop
sewing, to
unless
the
If you
are
on. turn
prevent
off
the
injury
to
regulates
the
speed
at
saw,
increase
speed,
the ball of your
J
NOTE:
foot
which
Machine plug
SAFETY
The
control
To decrease
gently
press down
with
foot.
speed,
release
your
foot
pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE:
INSTRUCTIONS
appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."
The foot control is sensitive and wilt increase'or decrease your sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs.
"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models 385.1148xxx, 385.1158xxx, 385.1168xxx, 385.1258xxx, 385.1268xxx, 385.12612 x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.12710× x x, 385.12TI4x x x, 385.12712xxx, 385.17622xxx, 385.11608xxx, 385.12814xxx and 385.12014xx×. x xx - represents numbers 000 through 999." (For U.S.A. market only) 100-316-005
5
SECTION
• f
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
•
Setting Spool Pins
Spool
FOR SEWING
Adjust
•
the Presser Foot Lever
Thread
Cutter
t
"
Normal position
up positior
High position
ip position Presser foo'_ lever
J
The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the machine. To use, pull for storage.
The
Presser
Foot
Lever
the
spool
pins.
Push down
and
lowers
your
up position to
help
foot.
you
You thread
presser foot. You can raise it about
up
raises
1/4"
for easy removal place
heavy
higher
than the normal
of the presser foot
fabrics
under
or
the presser
don't
need a pair
after
handy thread Pull before
the
you finish
cut the
sewing.
Just
use the
several
inches
cutter.
threads
starting
of scissors to
to
lengthen
the next seam.
SECTION Set Up the Machine •
2.
(Continued)
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Choose the Needle and Thread
Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
•
Accessory
Storage Box
Change the PresserFoot
• To Changethe Needle
! Needle clamp screw %
Flat side away fror£1
J
To Remove
the Extension
(for free-arm 1.
Grip
The
sewing)
the
table
and thumb, 2.
you
Table
Pull gently table will
with
your
index
finger
as shown. to the
The extension
the
accessory storage
box lifts
open toward
Sewing
accessories
ently
left,
lid of
located
you. are
in the box.
Use the correct the stitch
the Extension
To
change
feet,
(for flat-bed 1.
screw,
sewing)
Insert
the
tab
the
pin
into
their
catches. 2.
With gently
your
thumb
snap in.
and
index
finger,
Tighten
various presser
position
NOTE:
by
the
the presser
1.
Loosen
foot thumb
2.
foot,
the bottom. screw
using
large
screw
driver
to
certain
the foot
the make
to
the
its
highest
hand
wheel
you. needle
it toward
Remove
bar
the
clamp
screw
by
you.
needle
by pulling
it down-
ward. 3.
the
needle by turning
the
turning
the proper
the
toward
bar to its lifting
Raise position
presser
lever.
choose
insert from and
the
raise the
Loosen
Table
)
you wish to sew.
presser foot To Attach
for
conveni-
highest
snap out.
presser foot
Insert
the
new
clamp
with
the flat
needle
into
the
needle
side away from
you.
4.
Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5.
Tighten
is secure. with
the the
accessory
needle large
box.
clamp
screwdriver
screw from
firmly the
r z¸
,/•
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
i¸
FOR SEWING
•
Fabric,
Needle,
Thread
FABRIC
Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy j Your
choice
of
needle
and
thread
depends
on
the
fabric
you
are
sewing. In the
needle
envelope,
you
will
find
the
following
color-coded
needles: Blue
(11 )
Orange Red
for
stretch
(11 ) ........
.........
for
lightweight
..........
for
medium
(14)
weight Purple
(16)
........
for
fabrics. or
medium-heavy
fabrics.
and decorative
hole
weight
Length NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR
11-ORANGE
Medium Weight: CQtton, Cotton Blend, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knit, Suiting, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather
14-RED
Medium Heaw Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvet, Leather
14-RED or 16-PURPLE
Chart
THREAD
RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING
SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Co,on Silk A
2 (12 stitches inch)
50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A
2-2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch)
per
for
needle thicker
50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A
2--3 {8-10 stitches per inch)
Heavy Duty Cotton
3
fabrics
topstitching
(This
thread
Stitch
fabrics.
medium-heavy
fabrics.
and
on these has
a larger
topstitching
Heavy Weight: Coating, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas
18-GREEN
Polyester Wrap Silk A
Mercerized
Core/Cotton
(8 stitches inch)
per
thread.) I Green
(18)
........
for
heavy
decorative
weight
fabrics
and
top-stitching
on
these
at your
nearest
Sears
fabrics. Replacement
Kenmore
needles
are
Stretch available
store.
•
Check the Needle
1.
Look for barbed
2.
A damaged needle can cause permanent knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
Always
buy a good
be strong, 8
smooth
or blunt
quality
point.
thread.
and consistent
Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric
It should in thickness.
snags or
resist tangling
runs
and
in
Fabric:
Polyester Double Knit, Nylon Tricot. Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot
16-PURPLE 18-GREEN
Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only)
3--4 (6-8 stitches per inch)
11-BLUE {STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE)
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton
2-2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch)
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin •
•
To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Wind the Bobbin
Release
J
Remove
the
the
machine
left.
Open
pulling
down
extension by the
table
pulling shuttle
the embossed
it
from to
the
cover
by
part on
the left side of the cover. Raise needle by rotating
i•!
to its highest
position
hand wheel toward
you.
To
remove
tle, pull Pull
bobbin
shuttle.
bobbin
open
case from
shut-
latch of bobbin
case.
case
straight
out
of
clutch
turning
the
inside the hand
by
wheel
clutch
knob
toward
you to stop the needle from
moving bobbin.
while
you
wind
the
SECTION
•
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
f
)
Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc as shown,
Pull
end
bobbin
of
thread
through
hole
in
as shown.
Place
bobbin
spindle
with
from
the
bobbTn until
•
onto end
top
of
winding
it clicks.
thread,
start
slightly
filled,
bobbin of
thread
winding
Wind
thread until
coming
Push
bobbin
the
bobbin.
Push
spindle
to
right
Turn
clutch
knob
away
while
holding
hand
wheel
Holding machine.
the
onto
end
of
When bobbin
is
and clip
thread.
spindle
left
Remove
to
the
bobbin.
from for
you
normal
sewing operation.
snip off end of thread.
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
J
,J
Place
bobbin
in
bobbin
case
making sure thread feeds clockwise and is coming from bobbin
10
winder stops.
winding
as shown.
Pull thread as shown.
through
slot of case
Pull
thread
under
tension
spring and through the opening as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 inches
of thread
from
bobbin.
Holding case latch.
into
latch
open,
shuttle
and
position release
Case
should
when
latch
lock
into
is released.
place
SECTION Prepare •
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
the Top Thread
Thread the Needle
J Raise take-up
lever to its highest
Raise presser foot Place spool
The numbered on the Dotted loops
steps above follow
the numbers
illustrations. lines and then
show
places
is pulled
tight.
where
the
position
by turning
hand wheel toward
you.
lever.
on spool
pin as shown,
1.
Draw thread
into
thread
2.
While
holding
check
spring holder.
3.
Firmly
draw thread
4.
Draw thread
5.
Thread
thread
down
with
thread
coming
from
the back of the spool.
guide using both hands. near spool,
up and through and slip it into
draw
thread
down
into
the
lever from
right
to left.
left side needle bar thread
guide.
take-up
tension
area and then
around
the
thread
NOTE:
You
needle from may want
front
to back.
to cut the end of thread
with
sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
11
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
! 1.
Raise
presser foot
thread
loosely
handwheel
lever.
Hold
top
2.
you
bobbin
thread
up
pick
up bobbin
1.
Is needle threaded
2.
Is thread
3.
Are 3 to 4 inches of thread
4.
Is thread
5.
Is bobbin
6.
Is the machine
12
tangled
from
from
thread front
around
shuttle
properly
steps given above, then
to back?
needle? from
the shuttle?
tanglecl?
installed
threaded
by following
coming
in the bobbin
according
pulling
3.
Pull
both of
threads
case?
to the instructions?
check:
under
"the presser
to 6 inches
one complete
turn.
If you cannot
by
back
top thread.
in left hand and rotate
toward
Bring
of thread
foot, clear.
and to leaving
the 4
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose Top
side
of fabric
the Correct
Tension:
The best tension will Setting
mark
---
(
thread
depend
on;
the stiffness
and thickness
the number
of fabric
the type
of the fabric
layers
of stitch
The top thread is too loose.
The top thread is too tight
Tighten thread Top side of fabric
For Straight The
ideal
fabric, If you
Top side of fabric
Stitch straight
as shown look
stitch
will
have threads
above, magnified
at the
gaps, that each stitch
stitch,
front
is smooth
locked
between
the two
layers
of
The top thread appears on the underside of the fabric.
to show detail. and back,
you will
notice
that
there
are no
The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface of the fabric.
and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread.
Tension
is too
loose:
The top thread shows through bottom of the fabric. The bottom of the stitch
will
feel bumpy.
Tension the side
The the
is too tight:
bobbin top
the stitch
thread
will
of the fabric.
come The top
through side of
wilt feel bumpy.
13
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING Reverse Stitch Control
For Zigzag Stitch In a correct of
fabric
below for tension. Top Too
zigzag
and
the
stitch, top
the correct
the
bobbin
threads
will
appearance.
tension
Top
not show on the top side on the
bottom
this appearance,
adjust
side. the
See top
tension
Too
Top
will
slightly
To match
Tight
Top side of Fabric
threads
show
Loose
Just Right
side of Fabric
Top side of Fabric
To reverse stitch, hold down this control during sewing. Release to sew forward again.
Bottom
side of Fabric
Bottom
Too Tight: --
14
Corner of each zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics.
.
side of Fabric
Bottom
side of Fabric
Too
Loose:
Just Right:
--
The top thread will loop through bottom side of fabric and will be pulled almost together.
Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions.
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Stitch Selector
Jr. .....
I
I
stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend length control.
Selector Release
setting zones at the stitch
ZONES Setting mark (_)_etting
mark @_
/"
"'_tito. Selector
=.
=
•
Red
•
Green
.........
•
Blue .........
Built-in
Buttonhole
•
Brown
Stretch
Stitches
........
.......
Straight,
Zigzag and Utility
Geometric
Decorative
Stitches
Stitches Making
=
= \=
lt%.o_Pattern
1) 2)
Selector Dial
Raise the needle to its highest position. Select the desired pattern at the setting mark(_)by turning the pattern selector dia!. Dial will not turn past "SELECT" right,
When you select patterns a)
First,
slide the
on the selector b)
Then, selector
c)
Slide selector
Note:
Do
select
A to I
selector
release
to the right
release meets the setting
the
without moving selector release to the
desired
pattern
selector'
release
so that
mark@on
at the setting
the "SELECT
A to
!" mark
the machine. mark
I by turning
the pattern
dial. back
the
release meets the setting not
position.
turn
the
pattern
to the
left
mark(_)on
selector
dial
so that
the
"SEW"
mark
on the
the machine. while
the
needle
is in the
lower
It may cause the needle to'break.
15
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Stitch Length Control
Adjusting Stretch Stitch
0
//
Stitch
!
Length
\
1,, /
=H !)t'
o--1-1-3-,-_
3
Balance
4
,./-Setting
I I I I
/
titch
/
Length
\ o--i--=-,,;--+--, ---I
t
,,
lJ
mark
Yn
+_
= i] 1
\ • i
,,¢/
Stitch ._ "'.._.._
Control etting mark
The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch stitch setting. The higher the number, "0" means no feed.
the longer
the stitch.
To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at • position. NOTE: When you select decorative stitches (green) or built-in buttonhole (blue), make sure that you do not set the stitch length control at • position. Study the red, green, brown and blue section around this control. These are recommended zones of stitch length and are colorcoded to the stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panel.
To select Stretch position.
Stitches,
set this control at •
be in the detent position between S and L (Vposition) for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reversemotion stitches. To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "L"+
L
-
•
•
Smock ing stretch
Rickrack
16
stretch
S
SECTION2. StartingTo Now
that
Kenmore 1.
Sew
you
are familiar
sewing
Inspect afraid
PREPARETHE MACHINEFORSEWING
the
with
machine. needle.
to change
the controls
Below It should
your
on your
are some good be straight,
needle frequently.
machine
habits properly
Many
and with
to follow
each time
set and sharp
of the new fabrics
the accessories you sit down
on the point.
provided
for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your
new
to sew:
It should
made of synthetic
blends
be the correct tend
size for the fabric
to dull the needles more
and thread
being used. Do not be
easily than fabrics
made of natural
fibers. 2.
3.
4.
Before
placing
during
the sewing
Test the
the material
machine
tension
suitable
Fabric
should
seam marking
on the machine,
the ends of the threads
have been drawn
about
4 inches to the rear of the mach!ne_
Ho!don
to threads
stitch
on a scrap of the fabric
you
plan to use. The fabric
should
be double
thickness.
Adjust
the
the bulk
to the left of the needle and the right
machine
for the length
of stitch and
to the fabric. be placed
under
the presser
on the needle plate when
5,
Run the machine
6.
Fasten
7.
Always
8.
Guide
9,
When turning
sewing
the fabric
foot
making
at a slow even speed. The more
each seam by back tacking finish
see that
of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
sewing
each seam with
gently
with
the hand wheel
your
pressure
of the material
edge of the material
placed on the 5/8'"
seam. you put on the foot
control,
the faster the machine
will
sew.
a few stitches in reverse.
the needle
hand in front
manually,
with
a simple
always
at its highest
point.
of the needle.
Never pull
turn
you.
it toward
or hold
the fabric
in such a way that the normal
feeding
is altered.
17
SECTION Straight
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Stitches
Straight Stitch
Use the Seam Guides
Set the Machine Stitch
I I I
Stitch length control red zone
Stitch selector Cornering
The Straight foot
1. 2.
Raise the presser foot. Raise
the
needle
to
7. its
highest
position ....
At
the end of the
want 8_
to reverse
Raise the presser the fabric,
Top thread tension control 2 to 6
3.
Place
the
edge of
the fabric
next
seam, you
may
to lock the stitch, foot
Guide
seam
are there
guides on the needle to
help
you
plate
measure
seam
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
with
and remove t
T_o+uare
Corner .....
-
_"
Zigzag foot needle
plate
(5/8"
is
most
common),
g
4.
Draw
the
threads
5.
back and lower the presser foot. to a stitching guide line on the Press the foot control.
6.
Hold
the fabric
guide
it
along
towards
loosely the
it feeds naturally,
Do
not
pull
it tight,
force
the
fabric
9.
Cut the threads.
[ !i ii'i:
and gently
guide
that
the
line,
so
To turn fabric
or try
to
1,
a square corner
Stop
stitching by
turning
toward
you
when
facing
you
lines
Raise the
Lower stitching
18
from
the
lower hand
the fabric up
with
the wheel edge the
guide, as shown.
the
fabric
the 5/8" 3.
and
needle
cornering 2.
5/8"
edge:
presser
foot
to
the
edge with
presser foot
and begin
line
and
turn
seam guide. the
in the new direction.
i
SECTION
•
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Left Needle Position
Topstitching Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
I 1 I Stitch length control red zone
Stitch selector
Here's How
Straight foot
1. 2.
Lower Keep to
Top thread tension control 2 to 6
the presser foot. the
the
edge of edge
guide
the fabric
Evenly
produce
topstitching
NOTE:
your
and Its Uses emphasizes
garment
and
keeps
two outer
suits
rows
of
or
next presser
the
lines
seams
of and
3/8'"
can
from
easily
from
topstitching
with
one or
around
the
of
the edge.
adjust
center
topstitching
without
your
from
fabric
Š
along this
an even row
zigzag presser foot.
blouses
edges of cuffs,
You needle
edges flat and crisp. Accent
the
foot.
or
edge to
Topstitching
of
Zigzag foot 3.
The Stitch
the fabric
right
your
to left for moving under
Use
Left
Needle
Position
control
while
topstitching
stitching
difficult
NOTE:
Use
only
foot
for
for or
more edge
fabrics.
the zigzag
presser
Left
Needle
Sewing.
lapels or collars.
19
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
• Fabric Put
the
gether per
right and
Set the Machine
sides
of
the
fabric
to-
Use the
reverse
to
lock
the stitches. the
length at "'3"'.
at
Zipper
1/8")
Stitch
teeth
sew to the end of the zip-
opening.
Sew
Sew in a Zipper
Preparation:
zipper "4"
opening and
top
with thread
Zipper
I I I
tape
stitch tension Stitch selector
Stitch length control 2
To Sew: 1. control 3 to 6
2.
4.
Turn
under
ance to form 3.
the
a 1/8"
Place the zipper 1/8"
fold
right
seam allow-
next
foot
on the left side
of the needle. 5.
fold.
teeth
To sew the left side of the zipper, set the zipper
Fold back the left seam allowance as shown.
to the
Lower the zipper foot on the right side at the bottom of the zipper so that the needle pierces the fold and the zipper tape.
and pin in place. 6.
Sew through the fold and the zipper tape to the point where the slider begins.
7.
Lower the needle to hold the fabric and raise the presser foot.
2O
SECTION
8. 9.
Open theztpper. Lower
10.
the presser
foot
Close
and stitch
fabric
the
zipper
right
and
turn
the
11.
side up.
the rest of the seam. 12.
To
sew the
side of the needle.
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
AND !
CORDING INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as shown. Follow the zipper manufacturer's instructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch, Adjust
across
zipper
of
right Stitch
the
side
set
tom 13.
right
per,
and
the zip-
foot
on
the
bot-
the
corner
and continue
to
guide
the
teeth,
as shown.
Stitch
through
zipper
foot
the
zipper
Stop
about
2" from
Lower
the
needle
Remove
fabric
and
into
the fabric
the
basting
stitches
and
open the zipper. 17.
Lower
the foot
and stitch
of the seam. Make the
the top of the
and raise the presser foot. 16.
along
LEARN THE STITCHES
zipper. 15.
below
of the zipper.
Turn
14,
the
3.
the rest
sure the fold
is
even.
tape.
CORDING Foot
can
covers
also
etc.
fabric
end
be
used
Cover sew
e
to make cord
with
cording a strip
for
slip-
of
bias
as shown.
NOTE: Use (6757) which
"Low
Bar for
can
Sewing
"'invisible be obtained
Machine zipper" at any
ZIPPER end Sears
FOOT" "cording",
retail
store.
21
SECTION
3.
LEARN
Use the Darning
THE STITCHES
Plate
Darning Set the Machine Stitch
I I I
Stitch selector
Sometimes
when
to control
the fabric
you
sew,
you
Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust)
want
youself. Here's
The
Darning
so that
they
do not touch
To Put on the Darning NOTE:
the fabric. Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Plate:
The rectangular
holes
Darning
match
Plate
Darning
plate
1.
Put the darning plate on the needle plate
2.
Remove presser foot between embroidery centered.
3.
Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning.
4.
Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow speed.
5.
Move the fabric back and forth slowly until you have covered the darning area.
6.
Turn the fabric a half turn and sew another
in the the
holes
in the needle plate.
the
darning
holes
are slightly
plate,
No presser foot
2.
to the left
Position the darning plate with the 3 pins on the bottom. Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate holes.
layer of stitching over the first layer.
Use the darning plate in the following ways:
Darning (P. 22) Button Sewing (P. 25)
NOTE:
7. 22
and stretch fabric hoops with hole
In
these
of center.
1.
How
Plate covers the feed dogs
If your fabric is thin or badly damaged, use a separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce it,
When you finish plate.
darning,
remove
the darning
SECTION
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches Basic Zigzag
Satin Stitch
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Zigzag
width
:
Close to 0
Stitch
1
Stitch length _ntrul it_J
Stitch selector
zone
Top thread tension control 2 to 5
Zigzag foot
2 Stitch length :
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Satin stitch foot
Here's How The Stitch The
zigzag
common your
and Its Uses stitch
and most versatile
machine.
for sewing ming,
is one
It
can
with
buttons,
trims,
also
mending be used
stitch hem-
and darnto decorate
and cut-out
stitch.
most
stitches on
buttonholes,
appliques
or as a decorative
of the
It can be a utility
overcasting,
ing.
The Stitch and Its Uses
work
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for example, blankets, linens, tablecloths and napkins). The Satin stitch is especially attractive in applique.
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a scrap of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light weight fabrics. There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch. Consult the specific variations for detailed directions. Satin Stitch p. 23 Applique Work p. 24 Bar Tacking p. 24 Button Sewing p. 25 Overcasting p, 26 Three-step zigzag p. 2__7 Rick-rack stretch p. 32 Overcast stretch p. 33 Serging p. 34
23
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches (Continued) •
Bar Tacking
Applique
Set the Machine
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
HI
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Stitch length control 0.5 to 1
Satin stitch foot
Stitch selector
Baste
(or
joiner)
applique
fuse
Stitch
around
with
iron-on
fabric
This
stitch
is similar
pieces
on the
fabric.
satin
stitch
and
making
points
the
applique
sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left.
24
Stitch length control 0.5 to 1
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
of
strain
to a very short
is used to such
reinforce
as corners
pockets and straps on lingerie, Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches,
or
•
SECTION
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust)
Stitch selector
Zigzag foot
Use the darning
plate for button
1.
Set the stitch selector
at "
2.
Align
the
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
both
holes
hole of the button Darning
of
sewing CII _
button
To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving a 20 cm (8") tail. Bring
(see p. 22). ,,
the with
the slot of the foot
and place the left
just below the needle point.
needle
thread
hole in the button
down
through
and wind
the
it around
the shank.
plate
3.
Lower
the
foot
and turn the
comes just above the right 4.
Sew about
5.
Set the stitch
stitch
selector
to
zigzag until
the
needle point
hole of the button.
Draw
the
thread
to
the
bottom
side
and knot.
five stitches and raise needle. selector
at ,,
I "again c1_
and sew a few stitches to lock
thread.
25
SECTION Zigzag •
3.
Stitches
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
selector
Stitch length control 1 to 2
't j
Helpful Hints Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
The Stitch
Zigzag
foot
and Its Uses
This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project.
26
raw corner of your seam. If you start right at the edge, the fabric will bunch up and the stitches will become tangled.
SECTION Zigzag Stitches
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
Three-Step Zigzag The Stitch and Its Uses
Set the Machine
The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch, It has more strength, elasticity, and is flatter than a regular zigzag.
Stitch
Selector
release
I
Stitch
Stitch length control 0.5 to 1
selector
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
mending sewing patches smoothly securely, repairing straight tears. finishing seams.
and Seam Finishing
Mending
Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presserfoot.
Position the tear under the needle so that the stitching will catch both sides.
Guide the work so the right hand stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
position.
27
SECTION
•
Blind
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Hemming
1/4"
Set the Ma_J_ine Stitch
Light Weight Fabric
Selector retease
I
Stitch tength control 1 to 3
Stitch selector
Heavy Weight Fabric
Top thread tendon control 1 to 4
Finish
2.
Measure, tUrn up your hem and pin.
NOTE:
Zigzag foot
j
1.
the raw edge of your
For light
weight fabrics,
3.
Fold the material
4.
Place garment
under
should just catch 5. %_
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector position.
28
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
After
NOTE;
hemming, The blind
(wrong
hem any way you desired.
you
may need a double
(See Overcasting,
fold.
side out) on the edge to be stitched,
presser foot
the fold press both
in such a manner
p. ?_66)
that
as shown, leaving 1/4"
straight
stitches
of the finished
will be sewn on extended
hem edge showing. edge.
The zigzag stitd
of the garment. sides of the finished
hem stitch also can be used for
hem.
The top
Lace Work.
side of the garment
(See p. 29)
will
show only
the blind
stitches.
SECTION
Lace Work
3.
LEARNTHE
STITCHES
Shell Stitching Here's How
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
1.
Stitch
Stitch
For best effect: --
set the
stitch
-
desire. you may need to tighten top thread
Selector release
--
Selector release
allow
__._
length
as you
the
tension slightly.
the
needle
clear the folded
to
just
edge of the
!
Stitch length control 1to 2
I
Stitch selector
Stitch length control 1
Stitch selector
fabric when it zigzags. 2.
Zigzag foot
._
Top thread tension control 3 to 9
_
Lace
_
to blouses linenSand pillows andbecome lingerie. more Table elegant
adds
a fanciful,
when trimmed NOTE:
Be
sure
selector position.
to
slide
sew rows of shell stitches,
space the rows 1/2" apart. can sew You Shell Stitch on knits soft silky wovens in any direction.
_.
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
If you
back
the
release to the "SEW"
Turn I/2".
with
feminine
excess fabric
_
_
_
under
and Its Uses
The is formed by sewing blind Shell hem Stitch over folded fabric. Several a tucks.r°ws of shell stitching i
underneath
stitch using stretch blind Trim
__
The Stitch
lace.
raw edge of fabric Place lace
touch
Zigzag foot
or
at least
Shell
stitching
can
are called shetl be used
to finish
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
and top-
Shell
hem stitch,
tucking
scalloped
close to stitching,
can be used
tucks
on
to
blouses
create and
lingerie.
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW'"
position.
29
SECTION
•
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Box Stitching Set the Machine Stitch
Selector release
I
Stitch length control 1
Stitch selector
Use this
stitch
to join
heavy
interlining.
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector position.
3O
ZhTzagfoot
to release
slide
back
use this stitch
the
to the "SEW"
to join
them.
weight
SECTION
•
Fagoting
Decorate
Stitch Set
the
with Geometric
3.
Patterns
Stitch
Selector release
Selector release
Stitch length control green zone
!
I
Stitch length control 0.5 .to 2
Stitch selector
Stitch selector F,G,H or I
Here's How
Here's How 1.
Fold
under
each fabric
1.
edge 5/8"
Top thread tension control 3 to 8
Zigzag foot
2.
Pin the two edges to paper away
3.
Sew the
backing slowly, needle
1/8"
or tear-
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Satin stitch foot
2.
sure
selector
to
slide
release
back
the
guiding catches
3.
the fabric so the folded
NOTE:
Be
fabric
this stitch to
appearance
sure
selector
to
slide
back
the
to join
create
The Stitches and Their Uses two
an
and add design
pieces
open
of
work
interest.
These stitches
are purely
You
can sew
vary
the
special
stitch
4.
and length
Practice
the
stitch
on a scrap of
Mark the line for decoration on
one
row
width
Lower
the
needle
at the
starting
point.
release to the "SEW"
position.
position.
Use
width
the fabric, using a washable fabric marker,
to the "SEW"
and Its Uses
the stitch
fabric.
apart.
edge on each side. Be
Adjust
as you desire.
and press.
The Stitch
THE STITCHES
Set the Machine
Machine
Stitch
NOTE:
LEARN
5.
Lower
the presser foot.
6.
Gently
guide
maked
line.
the fabric
along the
decorative. or and
several or length
for
effects.
Experiment
on a scrap of fabric
what
effects
special
to see
are possible.
31
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Stretch Stitches •
StraightStretch
Rick-Rack Stretch
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
III III III
Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position
Stitch selector
Stitch selector
L__J
Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position
Straight foot
k__J
The Stitch
and Its Uses
Sew on stretch Top thread tension control 2 to 6
Top thread tension control t to 4
or Zigzag foot
!
The
stretch
actually sewn,
This
and Its Uses
stitch
is the
the straight ed for Stretch
stitch as
curved will
can
well.
seams
be used It
and
receive
(ie. children's
32
of
develop-
works
on
a great
clothes).
but
any
on
other
well
on
garments
deal of strain
is and
(sometimes action" give
knits and stretch fabrics.
fabrics
that
variation
especially
stitch
stretch
forward
stretch
stitch,
fooz
when
!nstead can also
of
the
in
back
so
break!ng_
"reverse-
that
it will stretches
Th!s
st!tch
be used for topstitching
on all fabrics.
a
motion
a
fabric
not
is being
stitched
called
stitch),
does
as it
i n any area that
use a zigzag stitch.
This
can be used as a decorative
stitch
top stitch
\
The Stitch
Zigzag
fabrics
you might
as well.
SECTION
Overcast
Smocking
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Stretch Stitching Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Selector release
Selector release
Stitch selector
stit le.gth control brown
Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position
Stitch
stretch stitch position
selector
Here's How
[__l
L_J
Place
the
the LEFT Top thread tension control 1 to 4
$
fabric
to
Zigzag foot
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
raw edge of the
of the needle as shown.
Stitch
so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge. Or, place your fabric seam,
then
trim
to allow a 5/8" seam
allowance
after.
With NOTE:
Be
sure
selector 3osition.
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
the stitch length at "4",
straight
stitching
lines
3/8"
sew apart
across the area to be smocked, Knot the
the threads bobbin
gathers evenly. the other end. stitch
between
and distribute
gathering
Pu II out the gathering NOTE:
Loosen tension easier.
Pull the
Secure the threads at Sew the decorative the
the to
stitches.
stitches. top make
Be
sure
selector
along one edge.
threads
Raw or worn NOTE:
thread gathering
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
position.
The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish. The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It can be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch.
edges of older
can be overcast to prevent
garments
further
raveling. NOTE:
Use a blue stretch fabric needle, which effectively prevents skipped stitches.
33
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES , /
•
Serglng or Pine Leaf Stretch
Stitching
Elastic Stretch
Stitch
/Set
the Machine
Setthe
Stitch
Machine
Stitch :
N Selector release
"il
Selector release Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position
I
Stitch selector
Stitch length control brown s_retcn stitch position
I
Stitch selector
'i
Here's How Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the stitches are made ever theedge.
/i••
Top thread tension control 1 t_4
Zigzag foot
Or, place your fabric to aglow a 5/8" seam, then trim seam allowance after. NOTE: NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
back
the
release to the "'SEW'"
position. The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch narrow seam that press open fiat. seams on knits
when you want a you do not need to It s ideal for 1/4" or on medium to
heavyweight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam. It is also great for making elastic swim wear.
34
When using stretch knit fabric, use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches.
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector position.
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
Choose
this
stitch
to attach
elastic
to
garments. 1.
Mark match
2,
the elastic these
into quarters
to
the center
and front,
center
back and side seams.
Place
the
middle
of
the
elastic
under
the
center
of
the
presser
foot and stitch sure the buted.
fabric
into place, making is evenly
distri-
'
: . :
SECTION
•
Herring Bone Stretch
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Decorative Stretch Patterns
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Selector release o.t^_
!
Stitch
selector
Stitch length control brown stretch st=tch position
....
! ....
Stitch length coFIt rol
l
Drown
stretch stitch oosition
Stitch selector F, G,H or Here's How Place 3/8"
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Trim
the from close
prevent
The Stitch fabric
top
side
up,
I____J
and sew
the edge. to stitching.
The stitch
will
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Decorative for touch
to
raveling.
can
women's
and Its Uses
Use as hemming stitch tablecloth and draperies.
NOTE:
for blankets,
stretch
adding
patterns
creative the
items
and you
can be used personalised sew
for your
children's
clothes,
home and family. You
The Stitch
and Its Uses
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
back
decorate blouses,
curtains,
etc.
the
release to the "SEW'"
position,
35
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Buttonholes
Set the Machine Stitch
U Stitch length control blue zone
Stitch selector
1. a. Carefully length b,
Top thread tension control 1 to 5
S|[d]ng buttonhole foot
the
buttonhole
Insert foot
tO the .................. _IIIU|ll_ UU
the with
ing running
garment the
I.I.UI
the top
b. Line
up
foot
with
the
(A) toward _nark
the
c. Lower NOTE:
the Stitch
Depending own
upon
may
a{ter
density
in
the
within
(_
For
_he
more
toward @
For
36
blue
length
density,
on
front the
The
markings
on
c. Stop
sewing
slider
in centimeters.
you stitch
_ttenhole dial.
turn
the
dial
density,
turn
the
dial
"1 ".
Always
make
tonhole
on a scrap
you
plan
to
more
suitable
a practice
use to stitch
of
Q stitches F ine for light fabrics
H
_
stitches for heavy Coarse fabrics
butfabric
find
the
length,
_ "
<>
_
of
at
_
yo_rreach your
•
_
,
i
¸
. the
bu[£on-
hole.
on your
the
until
marking
or your
"0". less
toward NOTE:
fabric
buttonholes, buttonhole
range on the stitch
mark
(B)
Density your
preference
mark
selector
I_. Sew forward
the presser foot.
are engraved Adjusting
3. a. Set the stitch
[C} on _he
markings
the top
you
garment.
mark-
you.
slider
slider meet_ th_ start
I! IU|l_
under
buttonhole
toward
the
so that
f0ot. c,
2. a. Move
on yourgarment,
.... _,,=Hy= _
mark
at the left stitch.
SECTION
a. Set the stitch
selector
[1
at
5. a. Set the stitch
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c.
Stop sewing
at the right
b. Sew
until
marking
stitch
selector
you
at
reach
131 the
back
of the buttonhole.
e. Stop sewing
at the right
6. a. Set the stitch
selector
at
_J
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop
sewing
m
t_
4,
3.
LEARN
7. Remove open with
THE STITCHES
the fabric
and cut the hole
the buttonhole
opener.
at tne left stitch.
stitch.
....
NOTE : When sewing at the
E
sliding buttonhole and sewin reverse(
edge of fabric,
set
foot as illustrated ___>r__,lr_--_r_ ). LI _ U _
4
37
SECTION
4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
CHART
What to Do When
PROBLEM
Skipping
PROBABLE
Stitches
Breaking
Upper
Thread
CAUSE
CORRECTION
Incorrect size needle. Bent or blunt needle.
Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle.
Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension.
Reset needle. Loosen upper
Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle.
Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine.
Breaking Bobbin Thread
Fabric
not Moving
Machine Jamming Knocking
38
Noise
at hole of_eedle
tension.
speed.
Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle.
Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Nicks o_bun_
thread
plate_
Replace Rep!ane
and fabric.
shuttle, or polish off burrs completely. needlep_ po!isl_of_burr_â&#x201A;Źon_y.
Improl_er bobbin case threading. Lint in bobbin case or shuttle,
Check bobbin case threading. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darning plate in place. Stitch Length set at 0. Thread knotted under fabric.
Remove darning plate. Adjust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under to stitch.
Thread caught Lint in bobbin
Disassemble and clean shuttle. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
in shuttle. case or shuttle.
and fabric.
presser foot
before
beginning
SECTION
4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When (Continued)
PROBLEM
Irregular Stitches
Breaking Needle
Bunching of Thread
Puckering
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
Incorrect size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose pr_ Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Choose correct size needle for thread Rethread machine.
Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Reset needle.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.
When
Incorrect thread tension(s). Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.
Reset thread tension(s). Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Bent or blunt needle.
Fabric very sheer or very soft.
and fabric.
Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. RA_Rt pr_Ar fnnt Rewind bobbin needle plate,
or polish off burrs
completely.
Reset presser foot,
,
starting a seam be sure to draw
back of presser foot formed.
1
Insert
about 4" and hold
both threads until
under and
a few stitchs
are
new needle.
Use underlay
of tissue paper.
39
SECTION
5,
CARE FOR THE
Replacing the Light Bulb
MACHINE Cleaning the Machine To insure that The feed
your
machine
dogs and shuttle
operates
at its best, you need to keep the essential
race areas can attract
dust and lint.
Your
machine
parts clean at all times.
can become
sluggish or knock
feed
Replace
loudly
is caught. Check and clean those areas about
every
If you sew frequently,
often.
â&#x20AC;˘
1.
clean more
three
months
under
normal
use.
Clean the Feed Dogs
Unplug the machine and open the face cover.
CAUTION!
The
light
bulb
HOT.
could
Protect
fingers
when
you
be your
handle
Follow
these directions:
it. Unplug 2.
Push bulb
the
bulb
up
counter-clockwise
and
turn to
the
remove
it. 3;
Put the new up and turning
40
the
presser foot Using
a
screw
needle plate. bulb
in by pushing it
it clockwise.
machine.
Remove
and needle, driver,
2.
Use a lint dogs,
remove
brush
to clean
the
3.
needle plate.
if a thread
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR THE MACHINE
â&#x20AC;˘ Clean the Shuttle Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. about every three months. Center pin of the shuttle
Shuttle
Clean the shuttle race area
driver Lever
Lever
Lever
Shuttle
Race
Lever (Oil
here)
Shuttle Cover
Bobb
Race
case
To Clean the Shuttle 1.
Raise point
2.
the
needle
and remove
Push shuttle shuttle
3.
Area:
Clean
race
bar
To Replace to
its
the bobbin levers
highest
aside.
shuttle
race
with
out. a
Put a drop the shuttle
2.
over-oil.
shuttle is forming
Hold
shuttle
to form
lint
will of oil on the center pin of and shuttle race. Do not
Assembly: race half
as illustrated
so that
moon
left
on the
shuttle
side of the
machine.
brush. 4.
Position driver
Lift
race cover and take shuttle the
!,
case:
Shuttle
3.
by center pin and position
a half moon
shuttle
on the right
side.
Pointed
cover
place
over
so as hook
be on the bottom.
Place
shuttle
race
into
shuttle
assembly. 4.
Snap the levers back into the original
position.
41
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR THE
MACHINE
Oiling the Machine Oil
the
machine
frequently, sewing
machine
Kenmore NOTE:
â&#x20AC;˘
oil
sewing Unplug
in all
areas shown
the machine oil.
under
One or two
machine
on
the
drops
oil is available
the machine
before
this
top of oil
page at least
cover
is sufficient.
at your
oiling.
about
once
every
a year;
three
Remove
otherwise
months. excess oil,
the
machine
In case machine otherwise
can become
is not
it may stain
sluggish
or will
used for an extended
knock
time,
loudly.
oil it before
If you sewing.
use the machine Use good quality
fabric.
nearest Sears retail store.
Remove
needle and put needle bar in full
down
position.
Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate Arm
cover
â&#x20AC;˘
Oil the Underside
plate
Face cover plate I I
Shuttle
Open face cover in illustration. Use only
42
a drop
plate and/or
remove
of oil; do not over-oil.
arm
cover
plate
by
loosening
top
screw
to
oil
points
Open the shuttle the left side of remove
bottom
cover
cover by pulling the cover. Tilt cover.
Oil points
down the embossed part on the machine head back and in illustration.
PARTS LIST
All parts listed WHEN
1
2
5
6
herein may be ordered from
ORDERING
1. PART
'
t
i_
/
J
If the
i
parts
transmitted
9
13
14
10
11
12
15
16
,ii
17
19
20
_
_
you
1 2 3 4 5
NUMBER NUMBER
need are not
ALWAYS
GIVE
THE
stocked
2. PART
DESCRIPTION
4.
OF ITEM
NAME
locally,
Parts Distribution
your
FOLLOWING
6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21
*6757 135 *6864 6797 6830 802424004 820832005 41669 *6889 735801008
are not furnished above.
order
will
be electronically
Center for expedited
Part No. 47 6510 *6862 1939 8134O4013 6551 6552 6553 6554 801506008 648801108 650802014 735503018 6870 593401008
*These items instructions
â&#x20AC;¢
MODEL
to a Sears Repair
Ref. No.
8
PARTS,
INFORMATION:
3. /
REPAIR
any Sears store or service center.
handling.
Description Shuttle Bobbin case Bobbin box with 10 bobbins Bobbin winder No. 11 Stretch
rubber ring fabric needles
(BLU)
No. 11 Single needles (ORG) No. 14 Single needles (RED) No. 16 Single needles (PUR) No. 18 Single needles (GRN} Needle clamp with screw Sliding buttonhole foot Straight stitch foot Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch foot Zipper foot Zipper foot Thumb screw Needle threader Light bulb Buttonhole Lint brush
opener
Large screw driver Small screw driver Oil and lint brush Darning
with
plate
the machine,
but may be ordered
per
43
INDEX A Accessory storage box ............... Adjusting stretch stitch balance ......... Applique ........................ Arm cover plate ...................
3, 7 16 24 42
B Bar tacking ...................... Basic zigzag ...................... Blind hemming .................... Bobbin ................... Bobbin case ............... Bobbin thread .................. Bobbin winding ................. Bobbin winding tension disc .......... Bobbin winding spindle ............. Box stitching ..................... Buttonhole .................... D...... k^l ....... I_j ttt2n _â&#x201A;Ź_wing
24 23 28 4, 9_10, 43 9_10, 41, 43 12_13 9_10 3, 10 3, 10 30 36 _37 4 37 43 ......
..........................
3
Carrying handle .................... Changing needle .................... Changing presser foot ................ Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race Clutch knob .................. Cording Cornering
4 7 7 ....
40_41 4, 9, 10
........................ guide ...................
21 18
........................
Darningptate:
:.
::
;:;:
22 : ::
4; 19;22;25;43
E Elastic stretch stitch ................ Extension table ...................
34 3, 7
44
7
Hand wheel ..................... Herring bone stretch ................
3, 17 35
I Invisible zipper ....................
21
B 3, 42
S Satin stitch foot .......... Satin stitch ......................
Lace work ....................... Large screw driver ................. Light and power switch ............. Light bulb ................... Lint brush ...................
29 4, 43 4_5 5, 40, 43 4, 40, 43
N
4, 23_24,
Seam guides ...................... Serging ......................... Sewing light ....................... Shell stitching .................... Shuttle ....................... Shuttle cover ..................... Shuttle race ...................... Sliding buttonhole Small screw driver
L
foot ....... .................
18 34 5 29 41,43 3, 9 41 4, 36_37,
Smocking ....................... Spool pin ....................... Stitch length control ............... Stitch selector ................... Straight Straight Straight
stitch .................. stitch foot ........... stretch ...................
31,43 23
43 4, 43 33 3, 6 3, 16 3, 15
1B_l 9 4, 19, 32, 43 32
T Needle clamp screw .............. Needle plate .................... Needle, thread and fabric chart
..........
4, 7, 43 3, 40 8
O Oiling .......................... Overcasting stitch .................. Overcast stretch stitching .............
42 26 33
P ........................
Performance problems chart ......... Pine leaf stretch stitching ............. Piugconnector_ _ _ _;;; ;;..;i ; i ._; Portable case ...................... Power switch ...................... Presser foot Presser foot
....................... lever ..................
43 38_39 34 4_5 3 5 4 4, 6
R
F Fabirc, needle, thread and stitch length chart Face cover plate ..................
....................
H
Parts list
D Darning
Free arm sewing
40 4_5
25
C Cabinet
Feed dogs ....................... Foot control ....................
Replacing bobbin case ............. Reverse stitch control .............. Rick rack stretch ..................
9_10 3, 14 32
Thread cutter ..................... Thread guide .................... Thread take-up lever ............... Thread tensions ................. Three-step zigzag .................. Topstitching ..................... Top thread .................... Top thread tension ......... ...... Top thread tension control ............. Turn a square corner ................
3, 6 3, 11 3, 11 13_14 27 19 11 _14 13_14 3 18
Zigzagfoot ,;;,.;,_;,,,t_t9;23_35,43 Zigzag stitches .................. Zipper application ...............
23_31 20_21
Zipper
foot
...............
4, 20_21,43
___411_ "_IFl_
'lllb_
'_i" _
'III' _
'lib'_
'till' _
"llb _
'llh_
11111. _
illil. _
"III I
_FII *I
'_lll_
'_lh _
IIIi_
qll, _
"llh _
"IPII. _
IIII _
'llbl_
'III I
'Ii_ -IIII,..Ip_l I
'IIIi I
"PlhI
dlb- I
qll 41-
'Jl_,_
'llh
+
รท
#
#
+
+ WARRANTY
FULL
25-YEAR
WARRANTY
ON SEWING
MACHINE
+
HEAD
# ---"
+ For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears wilt, free of ch_ge, in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.
repair
defects
in material
or workmanship
which
appear #
__-=
# __=
il
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material
#
appear in the electrical speed control FULL
_1
90-DAY
SERVICE
CENTER!DEPARTMENT 0
WARRANTY
For 90 days from necessary for proper
WARRANTY
This warranty
equipment
ON ALL
the date operation
IS AVAILABLE IN THE
gives you specific
sewing
PARTS
machine,
AND
including
MECHANICAL
electronic
components,
UNITED
legal rights,
BY RETURNING
THE
or workmanship
motor,
wiring,
SEWING
MACHINE
-_ () #
and p_o_ide
TO THE
NEAREST
mechanical
SEARS
se_ice
SERVICE
l_
and you may also have other
AND
and
P
STATES.
ROEBUCK
which
switch
ADJUSTMENTS
of purchase, Sears wil!. free of charge, replac_ any parts of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
SEARS,
_-="
of the
CO.,
D/817
rights which
WA, Hoffman
vary from
state to state.
Estates, IL 60179
SEWING Now
that
MACHINE
you
or service,
have purchased
simply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Machine,
Sears Service Center.
should
a need ever exist
Be sure to provide
for repair
all pertinent
parts
facts when
you call or visit. The model your
Sewing
WHEN
number
of your
Machine.
ORDERING
_PARTNUMBER
you
Sewing
Machine
will
be shown
on your
nomenclature
plate
on the back
REPAIR
=PANi
If the
parts
Repair
Parts Distribution
need
PARTS,
ALWAYS
DESCRiPTiON
are not Center
stocked
G VE THE
*MODEL
locally,
your
FOLLOWING
NUMBER
order
will
INFORMATION:
=NAMEOF
iTEM
be electronically
transmitted
to
a Sears
for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385
of
See page 4 for location.
Printed
in Taiwan
Part No.735806302
1.You' fnd the
spool pn on the top cover. Pul! ul up the spool pin, PUl! the spool pin, foot control into machine 2. Plug foot control into machine Then connect cord into any 110 _ 120 volt A,C. wall outlet, any110 _120 volt A, :. wall outlet, 3 Your Your Kenmore sewing sewillg machine mach ne has been been thoroughty thoroughty oiled oile( at at the the factory. factory. Be sure to wipe off the needle plate
"_
rocep=c Then e co,nect cordnto
_'_ _ "_1 _
xJ
_/t///f_
//
If _ II
21
_'_/
H
• b_e sew_n_ i
STRAIGI_T
surplus oil is absorbed.
I
cl _
RED
ZONE
2 TO
6
A or C
_r--
STITCH SELECTOR
ZIGZAG •
THREE-STEP Z GZAG
\
A
BLIND (STRETCH} SHELL BOX
" _.-
^
^
/ V V \
_-_
1. 2.
Slide"RELEASE'* Selact _attem "A" Slide ' RELEASE"
right
3. 1
left / right'
r
Slide "RELEASE:" S{ide "RELEASE"
2. Select pstlern"C 3 SIde"RELEASE"left 1. Sli_e _RE LEASE" right 2 Sabot em *'O _' ,
t_e_
Setting mark (_,_.......,.
left
I. SIIde*'RELEASE'_ 2..le= I_attern "S"-
1. _kI_"FIEL_=ASE
FAGOTING STITCH
There are certain types Of stitches that are used
right
Selector Release
m__
:
_T03
l
. _
_ I
-
1 /UZ
1TO4
I
A
....
I /
--
3_U_
I
A
more often than others in your garment construction. Because of their frequent use, you will soon realize the ccnvenience offered to you by this control, The desired stitch will be obtained by turningthe
k_
Stitch Selector.
" right
2.
Sele_
"E _'
I 2 3. 1, 2. 3.
Slide "RELI_ASE" Select pattern "C ' SI_e'RELEASE Slide "RELEASE" Select ttern "D_" Stide"_a_L_ASE"
3. Stide "_aE LEASE" !_ft
1) right left right " left
t. Slide "RELEASE' rgh_ 2 Setect ern "_E'_ 3. Slide =_tEl_EASE'[eft
BROWN pOS T ON
BROWN
POS TION • BROWN : PosITION
ial.
FOS!_i0N
,
.....
CARE
FREE
STITCHING
de/gends
and the LITTLE
on the BIG _
SHUTTLE NEEDLES THREADING r
V
I
Clean in and around the shuttle and feed dogs to remove accumulated dust and lint which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING.
F
OILING EEDING TENSION
_
FEEDING
OILING
(MATERIAL DOESN'T FEED PROPERLY)
The more you use your machine, the less often it needs oil. If you have not used your machine for a few months, and it seems sluggish, oil your machine. Periodically oil at points indicated in your instruction book. USE ONLY KENMORE SEWING MACHINE OIL.
Check stitch
length.
i+ P
o°+°[ ,,I
,:(,=
Flat side away from you
)
TENSION
_) TOP
HREADING
THREADbreaks, CAN unthread TANGLE andAND without thebeing seen. both If your thread then SNAP RETHREAD machine, top and bottom threads, THREADING
Make sure there is no slack or snags in the thread. Use the type of thread and size needle recommended in your instruction book. Thread should come off the back of the spoo| as shown+
Bo'rroM
THREADING
1. Insert bobbin with thread wound as shown and guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case. 2, Pull thread through slot. 3. Pull thread uader tension spring. 4. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle, and release latch.
COMPLETING
THREADING
Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bottom thread up and next, pull top and bottom threads under and to the back of presser foot.
_
-
Compare your straight stitching with the illustrations. If it looks like either of the top two, correct the thread tension dial as shown. BE SURE TO NOTE YOUR PRESENT SETTING BEFORE YOU START ADJUSTING.
_
_I_II_
t Upper
thread
Correct
too
_ _
Decrease
tension
tight
stitching
IMPORTANT For your safety an important new feature has been incorporated in this machine. The light/power switch provides electric current for the motor as well as the light, In order to operate the machine this switch must be on. If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just turn off the light/power switch and the machine can not be started accidentally by pressing on the foot control. This feature also applies when the machine is in storage. The foot control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high.
h
OPTIONAL
FEET AND ATTACHMENT
(SEWING
MACHINE
SOURCE
(A)
(B)
SEWING MACHINE MODEL NO
SEWING MACHIN E PART NO__
PART DESCRIPTION
200012104
Hemmer Foot
214872000
Walking Foot
941450000
(Even Foot) Pin-Tuck Foot
10111, 11607, 12331, 12492, 12641, 12781, 17781,
11541, 11682, 12332, 12493, 12712, 12841, 17881,
11551, 12320, 12490, 12541, 12714, 16951,
15841,
16841,
17641,1
17922,
17928,
11581, 12321, 12491, 1258'1, 12741, 17622,
"
385)
(C)
941460000
Gathering Foot Ruffler
941620000
Piping Foot Gathering Foot
200002008
17824,
200003009
200013105
Pin-Tucking Foot Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
20O0301O8
1/4" Seam Foot
214872000
Walking Foot Embroidery Foot Ruffler
200005001
654805008 941620000 I 18836,
18841,
19502,
19601.
19150,1 19501,
I
Piping Foot Gathering Foot
200002008 200003009
200013105
Pin-Tucking Foot Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
200005001
15641.
16641,
200028103
Roller Foot
200029104 200030108
Teflon Foot 1/4" Seam Foot
200031109
Applique Foot
200032100
Cording Foot
214872000
Walking Foot
654805008 941620000
Embroidery Foot Ruffler
ML-330555
Elastic
200201009
Piping Foot
200209100
Blind Hem Foot
200210104
Taping
Foot
Foot With Tape
Reel 200212106
Cording
340522N
Pearl Sewing
All parts listed above may be ordered by calling Sears Teleparts When ordering
repair pads, always qive the following
1.
Part Number
2. 3. 4.
Part Description (SEE COLUMN C) Model Numberof SeWing Machine: Example Name of Item (SEWING MACHINE)
(SEECOLUMN
information.
Foot Foot
oo
nter at 1 (800)366-7278.
B)
f the parts you need are not stocked locally D str bution Center for expedited handling.
(385.
xxxxx)
your order witl be el_ectronically transmitted
to the Sears Parts 735 811-OO1
'ORTANT To reduce the elcctri_
shock: I
i
*The plug is intended If the plug does not If it still does
t_ ! it in a polarized outlet only one way. fi_ f _lly in the outlet, reverse the plug. electrician to install not fit, 4ol tact a qualified
the outlet tl_e pl t_g tny Do proper not modify
/
way.
Replace foot controlle_ /ith the same type. or YC-30 Foot Controller: MODE L YC-482P l