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TT 520 .664 1S38
Copy
1
^•#^THE*^
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BOOK OF DIAGRAMS. ^
GOLDSBERRY, DORAN & NELSON, i=R,OFK,IE!TOR,S.
^^ 64:5
Vv^EST
LAKE STREET,
(Chicago, Illinois.
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=AC3-£3ISrTS 'VV-A.3SrTED=
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LADIES' BASQUE. Use Is
in
scale corresponding with the bust measure. six
pieces
Front, Back, Side-back, Collar,
:
and two Sleeve portions.
upon the general plan Draft Back
first
of
;
This Basque
is
drafted out
work.
raise or
lower the waist
the desired length.
Care should be taken
9 Til
O o
to connect waist lines.
line to
LADIES'
BASQUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
TO DRAFT FRONT. The If
front
is
drafted upon
scale
waist line has been raised or lowered in drafting
front to correspond.
H5>J
same plan and by same
'l-'^'-'^
used
in drafting
Back and Side-back.
Back and Side-Back,
raise or
lower waist
line
on
LADIES'
BASQUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued. SLEEVE.
Use
the
same
scale in drafting
Side Back, and Front.
'.
y,
both upper and lower part of Sleeve that was used
This rule has no exception.
in drafting
Back,
:
LADIES' COSTUME.
Use
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
It is in
eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Collar,
two Sleeve
portions, and
Back and Front Drapery.
TSE BASQUE Is perfectly plain, is
made
with collar and cuffs of velvet to correspond with the
skirt,
which
of velvet.
THE DRAPERY Is
drafted
by the
as Š1
scale corresponding with the waist measure.
It is in
two pieces
Front and Back.
TSE FRONT. The
right side
is
laid in three
upward-turning
P5
plaits,
four backward-turning plaits; press the plaits on the
while the
left side,
left side is laid in
but do not tack them.
THE BACK DRAPERT. Lay plaits
loop
six
backward-turning
on right in
side,
plaits
on the
left
side,
and also
six
backward-turning
bringing the two together in the center of the back, forming a
the center of the back, which gives a very graceful drapery without any
draping.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
LADIES'
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
leV,
15^-2
LADIES'
COSTUME—Continued.
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GIRL'S COSTUME.
Use
scale
corresponding with
the
bust
measure. It IS in
eight pieces:
for the front,
This
is
V
and front of Reverse,
Collar,
one-half of Skirt and
Front, Back, the
two Sleeve
portions.
very suitable for a school dress.
THE SKIRT Is
shirred
and sewed
to
the
waist.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
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2
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2%
CHILD'S
COSTUME— Continued.
1%
1-9
©
iV.
6% 6V«
MISSES'
WALKING COSTUME.
THE BASQUE, Is drafted by the scale corresponding with the bust measure. Front, Back, Side Is in six pieces: Back, Vest Front and two Sleeve portions.
TO
MAME BASQUE
Like the figure shows, draft the front upon the general plan of work. Trace from 2i on top measure line down to 11 on base line, then from 11 on base line to 2 on cross measure line and down to l-J- on cross measure line at the bottom of the basque. Cut this out, allowing enough to turn under and fasten to the Vest Front.
THE VEST FRONT Is to
sewed in the first dart and extends 4f on one cross measure line at the
shoulder.
THE BACK Can be cut
13%
13
plain
if
preferred.
MISSES'
WALKING COSTUME— Continued.
—
1
lHj 1
1
1
1
as
Waist
88^
_
16
Line 1^ 1
1
1
1
\:~[/ n!/,_
LADIES' KILT SKIRT.
20 »^
as
Use
scale corresponding with
waist measure. Is in
two
pieces:
Yoke and
Plaiting for skirt.
There are 36 plaits in the skirt. But 11)^ are here given, the balance are drafted accordingly-
Press the
sew
plaits carefully
and
to the yoke.
Regulate the length by the tape measure. /
72 V2
esJjj
671/^63
6X>4
QI^6o»4
h\%i9%
i9%Zl\ Top ofSkirt
i!,\AS%
V
^Z%U%
^
P
i'7^25^
21^19^8
U%U
.
854 »
w S3
•
72^/aeO
COV5,
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C084
57Ji55
61*4 49
ih%i9%
fQ
8?'/^
84
81»4
28% 26
22% 20»4
16»4
"Va
It
8'/a
6»/8 2T^g
i?
*
69 10
LADIES' COSTUME. TO DItAFT THE BASQUE. Use
scale corresponding with bust
measure. Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, and two Sleeve portions.
Care should be taken waist
to
connect
lines.
THE DH APERY. Use
scale corresponding with waist
measure.
two pieces: Front and Back.
Is in
The
right side of the front draper^ in four upward-turning plaits, while the left side is laid in four back-
is
laid
ward-turning
plaits.
THE BACK DRAJPEBY. The
left
side
is
laid in a
double box
plait.
The
right side
ward - turning marked on the
is
laid in
plaits.
seven back-
They
draft.
The
space between 37%^ and S^H on base line, is a loop that falls underneath the drapery. Bring 1 5^ on cross measure line running from 375^ on base line and 12^ on cross measure line running from 51^ on base line, together at the center of the back.
This forms a lovely drapery without any looping whatever.
TV 8S/4
if
11
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p ~3^.5"~r_~ 11V4
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19
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I
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I
COSTUME— Continued.
LADIES' 43
LEFT SIDE OF BACK DKAPERY
2
S
No.iL
Double Box Plait
11% s
^3^4
3V^l_™NT_!6«4
13
GIRLS'
GABRIELLE WITH BOX PLAITED SKIRT.
Draft by scale corresponding with bust mea-
Regulate waist
sure.
sleeve as in
first
lines
and length of
Notice the arrows
basque.
closely in drafting. If
desired, regulate length of skirt
measure.
goods and
The skirt may be so
straight
a
is
by tape piece of
cut and plaited to suit
the taste.
The the
distance from
skirt
and from
3^ 3
6^ at the top of 6% at the bottom,
to
to
forms the outside of one
plait.
The
others
are laid accordingl3^
The
draft for the
box
plaited skirt
is
given
on page 15.
This costume
costume on page
is
14.
again
shown
as
a street
MISSES' STREET COSTUME. TO DRAFT
THE WAIST, Use
corresponding with the bust measure. scale
Is in three pieces: Front,
Back and Side Back. Is drafted
upon the gen
eral plan of the
-
work.
THE JACKET Is drafted
by
scale corre-
sponding with measure.
the
Is in five pieces
:
bust
Front,
Back, Side Back, and two Sleeve portions. It has a lap on each side of the side back turning
toward the center of back, and finished with three buttons on each side.
THE SKIRT Is drafted out
by the scale with
corresponding
the
waist measure.
Only one-half
is
here
given. Is laid
Plaits as
in Single Box shown on the
figure.
Can be made
of any
ma-
terial.
THE SASH Is of ribbon, or of the
material as the
same
suit.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
.
BOX PLAITED
SKIRT.
LADIES'
OPEN DRAWERS.
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Use
scale corresponding with waist measure.
Only one-half are given.
,«0
S4
The band J* "^^
«^
The
can be
made any width
length can be regulated by the tape measure.
>^ (M
(S3
Allow
H
03 09
'SI
^
08<
2< 05
l_ CO 15
desired.
for the tucks.
CHILD'S COSTUME. THE POLOmAJSE by the scale corresponding with the bust measure Is in seven pieces, upper and under fronts, upper and under backs, collar and two sleeve portions. Is drafte'd out
THE UPPER FRONT upon the general plan of work, and is laid in three which are located on the cross measure line running from 15-3 on base line to 9^ on cross measure line at the top, and also on the cross measure line running from 17 on base line to 163^ on cross measure line. These plaits are carefully folded and pressed and fastened to the under front on the line running diagonally from the figure 9 at the shoulder down to the figure i at the bottom of the draft. Is drafted out
folds or plaits,
THE WAIST Should be closed on the
left side
with hooks and eyes.
THE UNDER FRONT Is
sewed
in the dart iinder the arm,
and
is
made
of velvet or any
contrasting material.
THE BACK and plaited upon the same plan. ward turning plaits in the back drapery. Is drafted
13
V
There are three up-
mm
CHILD'S
COSTUME— Continued.
No.l
K
COLLAK
10
4 10
THE SKIRT Is
drafted
Is in
by the
scale corresponding with the waist measure.
three pieces, Front,
And
is
Any
st34e of
finished at the
Back and Side Gore.
bottom with two rows
trimming
may be
of side plaiting three inches wide.
used.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
iik
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25
LADIES' COSTUME. This
is
a beautiful basque with vest front and single
front dart.
The drapery only
the under part of the skirt
narrow plaiting
of the skirt
is
is
given, as
cut plain with a
row
of
at the bottom.
TO CUT BASQUE. Take measure and follow instructions same
as in first
basque, in cutting this basque.
The
vest part can be of
any material desired.
The skirt is drafted by waist measure. In making the basque, if the lining is all that is cut as far back as the under arm dart, the vest proper will have to be stitched firmly upon the lining. The trimming on
the side
drapery should be a
straight strip four to six inches wide.
The
sleeve
terial as vest
may have a cuff put upon it of same maand trimming on side drapery with very
pleasant effect.
The back
of the basque i^cut plain and no trimming
used.
The
collar
is
a straight band the width desired.
THE DRAPERY Is cut in
Turn
two pieces
:
Uack Drapery and Front Drapery.
eight plaits towards the center in the back
drapery as shown by the numbers on top measure line. Only one-half the drapery is given, and four plaits are
shown
in the part given.
Turn the plait
first plait
by laying the notch
by placing 143^ on 19^,
plaits
on right
side.
Lay
plait
7^
on
on
left side
133^,
at
20% on
and
1
on
the center, the next
GJ^.
This gives the
the same, and securely fasten
to the band.
Lay four
plaits at the side in the
same manner, according
to the figures
given.
Turn four
plaits in front
drapery as shown by the figures. it
open
way down.
The
Fasten the right side of the drapery with ornaments, leaving
below the
last
ornament.
skirt has a plain
18
The
left side is
narrow plaiting
at the
fastened
bottom.
all
the
LADIES'
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued.
19
LADIES'
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued.
LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS. Use Is
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
in six
two Sleeve
pieces:
Right and Left Front, Back, Collar and
portions.
The Sash
is
of Ribbon.
THE SKIRT Is a straight piece of
goods or embroidery cut the desired length
and width.
The
length can be obtained by the tape measure.
*\"
Collar
2f
4
5
13=^4 81
^
.
WAIST AND
GIRLS' PLAITED
Cut
lining
SKIRT.
first.
and back as shown
Plait front
figures on drafts,
each side both
making
in front
five plaits
and back.
by-
on
Baste
the two pieces ofJ the^^back together
and lay the goods linings
and cut
out.
Ten double box Plaits
can
after plaiting on the
plaits in skirt.
be made from straight
material without
making
draft.
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—
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GIRLS' PLAITED
WAIST AND SKIRT— Continued. Si
ee t^I«^
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BASE LINE
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Ten double box
plaits
in
skirt.
Only three are
V
CS '^
given
s
in plate.
Others are made the same.
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4
'4
LADIES'
TEA GOWN. THE FLAITING laid in fine forward turning plaits and fastened to the lining, and the upper front is blind stitched over it.
For the
The
front
is
revers of velvet
may
be used with a very pleasing
be omitted.
If preferred lace
effect.
THE BACK two double box plaits. Care sliould be taken to connect waist lines. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Is laid in
scale corresponding with the bust measure. Front, Back, Side Back, Plaiting for Is in seven pieces Front, Collar and two Sleeve portions. The line on the front marked under front is to cut the lining out by, and the line marked upper front is to cut the goods out by, that the Tea Gown is to be made of.
Use
:
Nf
-N"
o
84
may
LADIES'
TEA GOWNâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
.
LADIES' POLONAISE. This Polonaise consists of five pieces: Back, Side Back, Front and two Sleeve portions.
Cut back and side back upon the general plan of work.
Cut the right front on the line running diagonal from 131^ on the fourth cross measure line down to Cut the left front straight as shown by the line running from 11}4 on third cross measure line to 17J^ on tenth cross line. In making up this costume lay two double box back as shown by the figures
plaits in
Joint front and side form, pressing the
seams
carefully.
Lay four side plaits on each front as shown in by the points, cut in on space between 171^ and 18 J^; sew in the four plaits and press carefully. draft
Loop
up the back with one or two loops
as
desired.
Drape back and
front so the lower drapery
is
even.
Bring the drapery on side back up in five plaits as shown by the lines between 12^ and 32%. The distance from 121^ to 19 (on base line), forms one plait, the center being at IBJ^, 19 to 24 forming another; but it is easier to plait up from the bottom, beginning with 33 to
28 and ending with 19 to 12%.
The
row of plaiting at Use any kind of buttons and ornaments
skirt is a plain skirt with a
the bottom. desired.
Set the buttons on left front.
is
26
(No instructions are given deemed unnecessary.)
in running seams, as
it
LADIES' POLONAISEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
.X^xX"
97
^\-
MISSES' COSTUME.
Draft back and side back of
basque upon the same plan given in first
basque.
But do not connect the
.three
from arms eye on back
points
with the curve as there given.
two
Connect
points
at
a
time.
DRAFT FBOKT by drawing base hne
Make
edge of material.
spaces from
three
least
at
the draft
as
shown
in
diagram.
TO GET BIGHT FRONT turn under the material on line
Take
line.
3^.
marked Turn line
Follow the
Follow
low.
4,
line
this line
3^
this
^
spaces from base
a tracing w^heel and trace the line be-
ginning on the point at to
i
i
^
on third cross
down
4 on next
to
line out line
by tracing down by
be-
points
to 134^ on waist line.
back and cut the goods on the tracing
outside of
base line and to
This gives the right
x]^
waist
line.
front.
THE LEFT FRONT is
cut on the line in draft
same
as any other plain
Any
front.
may
Instead of cutting diagonal as has been given, the
basque
may
line as
much
be cut
full
farther
back
as desired, than
given; then running the line dart and following
first line
down
of dart
is
to
may
this plan, or
if
garment
preferred the
use the plan of draft given
in
ladies'
polonaise wath diagonal front.
here
Gather
to top of first
down
of diagonal or double-breasted
be gotten up on
cutter
double-breasted by running
st3'le
bottom
elbow.
of basque.
desired.
88
the
Collar
sleeve, is
making
a straight
notches,
join
at
band width and length
MISSES'
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued.
1^43*4
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--W
19'/2
MISSES'
COSTUME—Continued.
BACK AKD SIDE DBAJPEBT,
here given.
Four
each piece to correspond with numbers
drapery.
^i.:;Only one-half of each of drapery
Lay
plaits in
given
is
plaits
Three
Lay seven
in draft.
on each side of waist at the side of
plaits in side
w O
Pi
OS ©X
to
o
^^
10
oc
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to
OS
30
back drapery,
drapery.
FfiONT
i^"
line of
back
MISSES' COSTUME-Continued.
ONE-HALF FRONT DBAFERT.
31
BOYS' PLAIN
WAIST AND PANTS.
TO DRAFT WAIST.
TO DRAFT PANTS.
Use
scale corresponding with the chest measure.
Use
scale corresponding with the hip measure.
Is in
two
Is in
two pieces: Front and Back.
pieces:
Front and Back.
Regulate the length by the use
of the tape
measure.
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LADIES'
Use
WRAP.
scale to correspond
bust measure. the
Sew
with
the sleeve in
seam between back and
back.
Put parts together
side
to cor-
respond with the notches on the different parts.
Trim
to suit.
Half inch seams.
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jcOLLAl COLLAR \S^'^
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2%
1
14% 13
Lower parv of Sleeve
17%
7V4
14
ll\
U^/a
aiVs 335/0
24% 25%
LADIES' COSTUME. Use
corresponding
scale
with
the
bust
measure. Is in
ery,
seven pieces
Front, Back, Front Drap-
:
RoUing and Standing
Collar, and
two
Sleeve portions. Is
cut with a polonaise
long drapery
front, with a
back and basque in front, as
shown
in the figure.
To make
the front of the basque as repre-
sented here, draft the front the same as any other front;
diagonal from
down
on the dotted
tr-ace
to io}4
3^
on
on base
the rolling collar, and of the back.
any material.
The
V
^
cross
line, let it
turn
line
running
measure
line,
away and
join
extend to the center
in the front is
made
of
Either plaited or plain velvet
combines with any material, and gives the cos-
tume
a very rich
and
stylish finish.
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COLLAR
i
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>
34
LADIES'
15%15
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued.
LADIES' SKIRT
Use
WITH REEDS.
scale corresponding with the waist measure.
Is in three pieces
:
Front, Side Gore, and one-half of
Back
Breadth. If
but three reeds are used, omit the lower one.
Regulate the length by the tape
H*
line.
1
CUT DOUBLE
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CHILD'S COSTUME.
5,
Half Box Plait
^
21^4
<6..,
<10 Box
Plait
<17'
<
Box
Plall <
25^8 29 V*
<33 Box Halt
Use
37
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
Is in five pieces
:
<
Front, Back, Vest Front, Collar, and one-
40U
O
half of the Skirt.
THE VEST
44^<.
Can be made of the same material as the dress, and made of the contrasting material, if preferred.
the Collar
box
plaits; the
trimming
Plait
3
^
THE SKIRT Is laid in single
Box
may be
V8^^26% 37
<
52% 56V2
omitted. Half Box Plait
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
48ÂŤ4
58S
LADIES' COSTUME. TO CUT BASQUE. Use
scale corresponding
with bust measure.
Front, Back, Side Back, Gore, Vest, Collar, and two
Is in eight pieces:
Under-arm
Sleeve portions.
The vest is sewed in the first dart and in the shoulder seam, and can be made of velvet or any contrasting color. The sleeves can be finished at the hand with a small round cuff of the same material as the vest, with very pleasing effect.
THE SKIRT Is drafted by the waist measure, and is in four pieces: Front, Right and Left Sides,
and Back Drapery.
The front is made of the same material as the vest and cuffs. The
left side
consists of
two double box
plaits.
The
right side has five side plaits turning
toward the
The
front, as
shown on
draft.
straps across the front are 31/^ inches
wide.
The lower one is 7 inches long, and th upper one is 51^ inches long; cut the remain ing four to correspond, and fasten on fron of skirt, as shown by the figure. First make a foundation skirt (cut fror the plain skirt pattern). Press the plait carefully, tack with tape underneath, to sta; the plaits, and fasten to foundation skirt a the waist with a band; finish bottom o foundation skirt with knife plaiting 3 inche
wide.
The back drapery is laid in five plait turning tow^ard center of back; drape up t'„ make bottom even.
2V4 «Ne»
d
A»
? COLLAR
3*^//-2«^t=2^a
A
^he%i%i
'
1
!f
/
"ifiW !ti
3 4:%
fq
£
crj
\^
-8- V-SU
-
10%
'\ No.BX\
^\
s^^iv^
\
13%
1^' u%
&
5\ 38
4'
ISVa
21%
COSTUME—Continued.
LADIES'
'^%i^%W
8^^-81
/ii
wS9^i9
^/^esiios
-v7-
t;;
3TS
Lf
mp
^7:7
^>'x5tSl^
V-
8r,|iS
"^xlgJ-gOS^^iSg
2Z%ZZ %il
V18T
Q%
^/i§8
I'y,
%8*8S
34
'^
Topof Jkirt
60
No.BX c3
o t-9
J 64Va
62^461»457^a56 A
A
A
A
52*4
45S A
42 A
40^^37 A
A
35% A
32 A
28^^27
-'A
23V322 /\
A
18^4 C
llVa
sViG»/4
3i,lf4
tsVo
LADIES'
COSTUME—Continued.
-
^7'//:
sc%
S
33 -^
25 Va
V-
V
22^*4
1
Top of Skirt
1
1
1
1
1
i
1a?
1
-
pi
1
1
o
<s
No.B
§• i
1
1
1
X
ft
« a
1^ 1
I
f
47«/
h'^'
—41
/4
37*4
32
27*4
22*^8
&.
\J\
\2\
I,
7 '3-
V-i
43!
c'b
^^
20
3/4
H 19%
O ©
14 V4 P
13^4
W w w
w 7% ><1
EIGHT SIBE BAGS DEAPERY
M ® o ^s
^i5
40
^S;'
{»>
M
h*! f^
^^
^
1^
o
LADIES' KITCHEN APRON.
Use
scale corresponding with bust measure.
Is in six pieces:
Belt, Pocket,
The
Front, Back, Shoulder-strap,
and Strap.
binding should be held tight, to prevent
enlarging the neck.
Regulate length by the tape
line.
LADIES'
Use
CUTAWAY
JACKET.
scale corresponding with bust measure.
Is in six pieces
:
Front, Back, Side Back, Collar,
and two Sleeve portions. Is
made
of
any material, and can be worn with
any costume. Interline the collar with canvas.
Connect waist
«e
lines.
CO
00^ oBn
ijis.
42
V LADIES' Use
MORNING DRESS.
with bust measure. seven pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Back Breadth, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. Is
scale corresponding
in
upon the general plan of work. breadth is turned down two inches; gather and sew to the back on the curved line Is drafted
The back
iSi^ on base line, and the curved line on side 1 21^ on base line.
back
Sew the back and side back together first; the bottom can be finished with plaiting or gathered ruffles.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
A
f¥i^.
Back Breadth
of Sldvl
litijiP
r^o.F
X
^«
;i".si.„„
X n>s
Collar \
yp.F
I'od"
!;(1
1
t>
ifc^
37
«ilV.
CO o
4a
l« OS
l«
»<-
»*
^nT
^I'-in
-'
of
» »
at
H*
(-*
No.FX 'H
(Z>CC-<1
~,-^
CHILD'S CLOAK. lÂŤ^4
l"/*
Use Is
scale corresponding with bust measure.
in five
two Sleeve
Lay two
The
pieces: Front, Back, Collar and
portions.
single
box
plaits in the
back.
front can be finished with buttons,
preferred.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
19 I8V2
19 18 V2
if
NECK
INFANTS' HIGH
Use
DRESS.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
scale corresponding with bust o /^
measure. in
Is
10% four pieces:
Front, Back,
Side-gore and Sleeve.
The upper and sleeve
is
the under part of
drafted together, as
shown
in draft.
Quantity of material required: 36 inches wide,
2%
2^
yards; wide lace,
/N0.JX
yards; insertion, 5 yards.
lP%__..6tV4'
3 1/3
/VJ
/ L Front Gore
12^4
No.JX
[14
52%
45
LADIES' POLONAISE. Use
scale corresponding with bust
measure. Is in five pieces
:
Front, Back, Collar
and two Sleeve portions.
The two
fronts are cut together, to
down
avoid a seam
the front of the
drapery. It is easily
drafted
if
care
is
taken to
follow the lines and figures given on
Each piece
the diagram.
is
numbered.
Study the draft carefully before commencing.
The
sewed together with
left side is
the back drapery.
Lay four upward turning
on
plaits
right side, and fastened to the back
drapery, as
The bow
shown on the of ribbon
figure.
can be omitted,
if
preferred.
The back and together, as
The
line
2i% on
side back are drafted
shown on diagram. running diagonally from
base line to 6}4 ^^ waist line,
extending to
9%
on waist
line, is laid
in five side plaits, turning toward center of back, and fastened firmly to center of back.
Lay cross
six side plaits
measure
line,
on each
on base line to
19% on
side of
When
draft.
side,
running from
on
32%
the opposite plaited,
press
carefully and tack to tape, to stay the plaits.
Omit the tacking at the bottom.
LADIES' POLONAISEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
11V4
23> '3
CHILD'S COSTUME. This
is
a beautiful costume, suitable for either
by bust measure, and is in Collar and two Sleeve portions.
Is drafted
Back, Belt,
There are three extending to
shown
boy or
girl.
i\
/
1
box plaits in front and back, the shoulders, and three under the arm, as single
5S
1
top of back are
marked on
X.
measure line, or fourth line drawn from top, for convenience and the plaits are marked on front on 33^ measure line, for the same reason. plaits at
2
X 0.
4^-4
21^
^'j
V
48
\
1" 1
^
;
â&#x20AC;˘
1
Š
in draft.
The
-^
r
six pieces: Front,
2^4
^8V *4
CHILD'S
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
GIRLS' COSTUME.
Use
scale corresponding with the bust
measure
to cut the Polonaise.
Is in six pieces
:
Front and Vest Front,
Back, Side Back, Collar, and one-half of plaiting for the Skirt.
THE VEST is
sewed
in the
under-arm dart and
at the
shoulders.
The Vest, Lappel, and Collar can be made of velvet or any contrasting material
if
desired.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Bte^iSiif-lffj^rfii- r
14%
50
83%
I- i-^
-,.'"4:-r ->- -'â&#x20AC;&#x17E;
y
..
.->->-^.--,
:^,
;ki.j^-ÂŤiat
GIRLS'
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued.
51
LADIES' STREET JACKET. Use
scale
corresponding
with
bust measure. Is
2^ Jacket Front,
ten pieces:
in
Vest Front, Back, Side Back, Underarm Gore, Rever for front of Jacket, Collar, Cuff, and two Sleeve por-
9%
tions.
The
jacket can be
made
of
any
material.
Lay two double box
plaits in the
»-''4
3-Vs e^Vj;''%4
^^
V
3
back.
The The
vest
is
made
of velvet. '
vest front and jacket front
3»2 2
10
gore.
52
^^
15
No.K X
are joined together with the under-
arm
y
k
uvs
;-j,G«/j
sVs
Ki
1%
!1%
1
CHILD'S COSTUME. TO CUT JACKET. Use
scale corresponding with bust measure.
Is in five pieces: Front,
Back, Collar and two Sleeve
portions.
THE SKIRT Is drafted s*kirt,
by waist measure, and
There are two double box given
in plate.
69
two
pieces, half of
66166!. 68'4
ii>
plaits
in
5^
skirt;
are
Others are made the same.
The Trimming on The length can be
69
is in
and yoke.
skirt
can be omitted,
if
desired.
regulated by tape measure.
^^&xl^&Vy.&4^:b6%l''i\^» %i^ \i^i\i^^^^
sa'^ •jy\2'5'^«'jS8V^3ai,^ll>^l'.^^ IBlj
U.
S 4
i
I
%
2
Top of Skirt
it,A
4^
No.D Plait
'i
X
Plait
Plait
Plait
«l-4
G9ic
68i66'-.653<68li 60l Stt.'jr Slir.sS-SOi-oOVr 4r^443{^ 48'-41?<89j'88
35V»4Ji88?<,29?s 2G'< a6li38«<83i80ll9k 1?
53
14
K<'^
45-4
'>
CHILD'S CLOAK.
Use Is
scale corresponding with bust measure.
in
eight pieces: Front, Back, one-half of Skirt,
Hood, Collar and two Sleeve This of
is
portions.
a very fashionable Cloak, and can be
made
any material.
The The
Skirt
is
cut long, and can be plaited
Cuffs,
Collar and
Hood
lining
if
preferred.
is
made
of
velvet.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape
5%
line.
5
CO
*\"
o^."
Collar
CLOAK BELT
*^
NO.l
2f
B â&#x20AC;˘a
t9
to
B4
>
CHILD'S OLOAK-Continued.
-<
XaiHS dO JOX
© Hi
<
^ la »j
^?
^
"
IS Ol
I*''*
5'„-l
(-
5^5
GIRLS* APRON.
5
This garment is laid off by the bust measure and in accordance with the general directions. It is in five pieces: Front, Back,
Yoke, Pocket and Sash. Gather it to the yoke from
across the top of the back and join
one end of each portion of the sash and insert it in the under-arm seams as shown by notches. Turn a lap on the pocket and attach it in proper place. Any style of trimming may be used. One inch is allowed on shoulder and under-arm seams; one-fourth inch on all others. 13^ space seam on the shoulders.
$ to
COM
ec
y ^
*+-
'^ tl
Š
1
>j
->
13
>: 1
.^
1
\
\\
1 1
1
â&#x20AC;˘
1
66
2i
LADIES*
NEWMARKET WITH
This
is
again
shown on page
The Cape and
rolling
58.
Collar
are
given on this page, and drafted by the scale corresponding to the bust
meas-
ure.
This Cape can be made of
fur,
As-
trachan cloth, or of the same material as the
Newmarket.
SI ,-*
as
•>•
I>.QO CS
1-4
y-k
«0 IH
(M
57
CAPE.
LADIES'
NEWMARKET.
1*4
Use
scale corresponding with bust measure.
Is in six pieces
:
Front, Back, Side Back, Collar,
and two Sleeve portions.
Lay six
plaits in the center of the
with an arrowhead, made of of
silk
back, and finish
twist, or
any kind
ornament desired.
Use
large buttons to fasten front and finish the
sleeves.
58
LADIES'
NEWMARKET—Continued.
2%2*'4
S2
21%
5»
LADIES'DWRAP. Use
scale corresponding with bust
measure. Is in five pieces: Front,
arm Gore,
Back, under-
Collar and Sleeve.
Draft upon the general plan.
Connect waist lines in putting the garment together. Fold the sleeve at the figure 13 54^ on base
line,
which join
it
designated by a to the back.
star, after
Join to the
on the cross measure line running from 1 5/^ on base line. Between the two stars at the top of the sleeve on cross measure line running from I ^ on base line are to be
star
gathered.
Follow the arrows closely in drafting. There is one double box plait in the center of the back.
Any
style
of
an ornament can
used.
,^\"
*"-<f
Ko.BX Collar
*^r
60
be
LADIES'
22
C:^--
WRAPâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
LADIES' STREET COSTUME.
Use
corresponding with
scale
the bust measure.
Right and Left
Is in six pieces:
Back,
Front,
two
and
Collar
Sleeve portions.
This
and
is
easily drafted
The
plaits.
right Front has three up-
ward-turning
plaits.
These two separately,
which
fronts are
but
the
made should be
waist
cut
down
avoid a seam
laid
in
Side
Back
is
is left
drafted
is
of
be
to
double to
the front.
open down
the figures 25 on base
The Back and
drafted
material
Polonaise
the
The
closely.
Front has seven up-
ward-turning
The
taken
is
marked.
plait is
left
care
if
arrows
to follow the
Each
polonaise,
a beautiful
to
line.
The
together.
extra
fullness
in
the
back
is
plaits.
There are two
The Back
is
loops,
one on each
draped up
until
it
side.
becomes even
at
the
bottom of the
skirt,
THE SKIRT Is
cut
from the
plain
skirt
given
in
this
issue.
Any
used on the Skirt.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
62
style
of
trimming
may be
LADIES' STREET
iQ
Ifi'/
fc'afetlliiA
_i«_^M'
__i
COSTUME— Continued.
<>V8_^Vaisl Iiue_
^L—ITl __3, ., _1I__J 12 4 10% 8% 5V^ 1Q\
^'-
c
e,
IG
I'/j 2
24V,
19 32
19
08V8 59 61/«
^^
COLLAR NO. 2 A
LADIES' STREET OOSTUME-Continued.
,3/
12V
64
11^^
^^^S*-'\2V4
.,
CHILD'S APRON.
Use
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
It is in
two pieces: One-half
Ribbon can be used
of Front
for the ties,
if
preferred.
Regulate length by the tape measure.
?% 9 Si
M H o
8\k^-^ 28*/.
65
and Tie.
CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.
Use scale corresponding with the bust measure.^ ;!^^^f^ Is in seven pieces: Upper and Under FrontSj^Back and Front, Collar and two Sleeve portions. This is drafted upon the general plan of work. The Front and Side Back are drafted together.
Baste the Front and Back together; get the desired length for the skirt by the tape measure. It is a straight piece of goods, can be either laid in plaits or gathered. This costume is gathered. The Back is finished with a large bow of ribbon. The Upper Front is shirred on 24 crossmeasure line, and sewed to the Under Front on 2iJ^ cross measure line. The Upper Front is gathered at the neck to fit Under Front. The right side is fastened firmly to the Front. The garment is closed on the left side with hooks and eyes. Lace may be used instead of embroidery, if desired. Regulate the length by the use of tape measure.
20'^^
CHILD'S STREET
COSTUME—Continued. 9Va
2% 3/s
H o P4
©
Ph P^
P
P
-117 Vi'alst
Waist line
NO.
P H ^ P P W
fa
8
17
I
4f
Taclc
Hue
sMiH^F—
'to this line
2D NO. 2.D
l«S/
I
Shirr on this l ine
34 2/5
37% 37%
K9%
or
LADIES' SPENCER WAIST.
Use
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
Is in five pieces
Sleeve portions,
Make
Front, Back, Collar and two
:
i
%
1^
space seams.
belt the desired length
and width.
6
^?Mj I
LADIES' DUSTING CAP. Use
scale 32 to draft this out by.
Can be made
to tS to K) «9 •-] OS
V
of
any material.
Ci
to 1-1
^
to to
ft
LADIES' SHORT Use
scale correspond-
ing with the bust measure. Is
five
pieces:
Back,
Under-
in
Front,
jâ&#x20AC;&#x17E;i/
arm Gore, Collar and Sleeve.
Follow
arrows
the
j
closely.
Connect lines
the
and
waist
join
the
front
with
-^^
notches.
Close
in
hooks and eyes. -
Any
style
of
trim-
ming may be used.
B9
WRAP.
'
CHILD'S CLOAK.
Use
scale corresponding with the bust measure. eight pieces: Front Back, Side Back, Collar, Cuff, Hood, and two Sleeve portions. Lay Is
in
the plaits in Back and Side Back according to the notches. Gather the hood at the top and bottom. Regulate the length by the use of the tape
measure. ISO. 5
F
2 /^ U'i
i\
~V\tL
7%
CHILD'S
CLOAK— Continued.
:k
//<»
If 1 iS
/r h?
r r1
«,
I
#1
\
el \
^«\ 1
\
i\
1 1
11
~-~—.^
1
29V
CHILD'S COSTUME.
COLLAR NO.
:
5M 1
Cut Donble
(
1
1^
To draft Jacket, Vest and Sleeves, use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in
Collar,
eight pieces: two Fronts, two Backs, two Sleeve portions and one-half of
Skirt.
This work.
is
drafted upon
the general
plan of
The Skirt is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. Lay plaits according to the notches. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
CHILD'S
COSTUME—Continued.
•< 01
w-
^ >eo
v»*
eo<
'
w^<»
.A"
»o<
-"H
-^*'
oo<
osN-*
><X>
-i^
=0^
©< 11^
ft>
«-*
* >rH
s< e*-*
>3
•
^\*
e»<
as
>»H
r-i
01
M
J?*
*
?< M ^^
>.»l
-X**
>o 01
»o< M
»r
^
ea «s
\"
O »
s< H4
M
»»
ej
CX2
>©9 1
i ec 1
to
T^< 09
fH
1
>0
o o H P>(
^^
05
«e<
1
09
S 1
1"
1
©
e^
>"*
06
^ I— -J -* 1
*
•
-I
>•* =7^
^
-J
^
'
oi^ «©< ^ C» ^«* «\"*
©, s^
>t4 >S
<J3
(S* r*<
W9
ri^
.W9
"»< isr
>«© »o
i>< kO
o
—^ CO
T-l
«D
/j
Inch Scam
.
—
-§<
HALT OF BOX PLAIT IN FKONT •^*'
^
«
LADIES' CHEMISE.
Use Is
scale corresponding with bust measure.
in
six
pieces:
Front, Back, Front Yoke,
Back Yoke, Band and
Sleeve.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
*• 14
>— ^-^-
*-^
•i!^
^ 2 c
-
—
^
ts
*^
\
^4
'
Front Yoke
i
e^>J
I 1
'^
Ko.G
X
Im~=r--^.„.^
Sleeve 1
-l-
-_.^____
1
Al ii
/11V4
Back Front
©
d
IG
flft
33% 35
_J35
w
CHILD'S COMBINATION
Use
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
Is in three pieces Is drafted
:
Front, Back, and Sleeve.
out upon the general plan of work.
Follow the arrows
No
UNDERGARMENT.
allowance
is
closely.
made
for the tucks.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
74
CHILD'S COMBINATIONâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continued.
75
LADIES' STREET COSTUME.
FRONT VIEW.
THE SLEEVES May
TO DRAFT BASQUE. Use Is in
Under
be finished with a cuff
Arm
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Front, Back, Side
Use
Back, two
a
is
two pieces
Is in
Gores, Collar and two Sleeve portions.
French basque,
a
demand
at present,
of
we
such
wrap
we
plaits in the
given
in this issue,
and
The is
laid in
pattern for the
a very stylish and
THE SKIRT
turned away and insert a vest
may be made
figure.
is
dressy wrap.
Is
preferable, and also allowance
is
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Front and Back, and
shown on the
are fitting of any
have.
The Front may be if
is
and gives the most perfect
shape to the figure for which
basque
which there
ifPdesired.
scale corresponding with the waist measure.
plaits as
This
hand
THE DRAPERY.
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
eight pieces
at the
cut from the plain skirt pattern, given in this
issue.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape
measure.
for
The diagrams
Back.
78
for the
wrap
is
given on page 80.
LADIES' STREET
COSTUME— Continued.
BACK VIEW.
K) >*».
t« t«
^«
ts l-»
LADIES' STREET
QO
©
--1 -<1
^1 CS © ©^'" x"" l*-^
»
o Oi th
C«
es to
N,"
»
COSTUME—Continued.
x"
19^/a
09
to ©
to QO
to to 09 lO
•a
A
at
ta
COSTUME— Continued.
LADIES' STREET
.x-* -<'--'' 'T) >-<
-
s
<N
«s 51
-\ r« *J
N«
N as
:^''„v
CO
«
<M
«
1~
t^
-i< -i*
3Va2%
COLLAM FOR WRAP.
PS
©
6k
LADIES' Use
The
scale corresponding with bust measure.
It consists
of four pieces:
WRAP. sleeves are loose. style of trimming may be used, and almost any material. Find collar for wrap on page 79-
Any
Front, Back, Sleeve
and Collar. This is drafted upon the general plan of work. Watch the arrows closely.
The design of this wrap is given on page 76 and 77 (Ladies' Street Costume).
Join together according to the notches.
80
CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.
12V
Use
© ©
scale correspouding with the bust
measure. Is in ten pieces
:
Right and Left Front,
Yoke and
Shirring for Front, Bacls, Side Back, Collar, two Sleeve portions and onehalf of box-plaited Skirt.
THE FRONT. The dotted line running from 33^ on first measure line down to 4J^ on bottom
cross
line is the lining for the
for vest.
yoke and shirring
After the shirring for the vest
'40
is
gathered at top and sewed to the yoke and gathered at the bottom, baste it to the right Close at the left side with hooks front.
and eyes.
THE BACK Is faced with the same material as the vest front and looped up to form
a
bow
of
in center of back.
Any
style
©
trimming may be used.
THE SKIRT Is laid in
box
plaits.
Regulate length by the tape measure.
o so © 11*4
4^
/
- Ttr^27
81
1
OHILDS' STREET
COSTUME— Continued. i
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jBos piait
•
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ii-
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© Ph © 18 Box
plait
24
28'4
s <33
©
Box
plait
<138%
4a
47Va Box
NO. 2
10
82
Half of l)ox plait
plait
<
52\
<
Cr/4
LADIES' COMBINATION
Use
scale corresponding with the bust measure.
Is in
three pieces: Front,
Is drafted
Back and
Sleeve.
out upon the general plan of work.
Follow the arrows
No
UNDERGARMENT.
allowance
is
closely.
made
Regulate the length
for the tucks. b}-
measure.
83
the use of
the tape
BOYS' SUIT. Use
scale corresponding with the chest measure.
Is in eight pieces
two Sleeve
Knee
Front, Back, Collar, Belt and
:
portions, and the
two portions
for the
Pants.
Is drafted
Each
on the general plan of work. marked on the draft.
plait is
Follow the arrows
closely.
THE PANTS Are
drafted by the scale corresponding with the
waist measure.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
_6ii
6%
18 V, SV-aS
1%
5^4
% 84
SVs
SV^
«
'
BOYS' SUIT— Continued.
5V,
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£9
No.lF
tl 2Q^A
85
~
BOYS' SUIT.
To
cut the Coat and Vest
use scale corresponding with chest measure.
THE COAT Is in six pieces
Collar,
:
Front, Back,
Pocket Lap and two
Sleeve portions. drafted
Is
out
upon the
general plan.
Is in
two
Back.
pieces: Front and
Care should be taken
to follow the ing.
arrows
in draft-
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MEN'S OVERALLS WITH APRON.
Use Is in
scale corresponding with waist measure.
two
pieces: One-half of Overalls and Strap.
Regulate the length by the use
l2«4
A
;^
7^
29^/4
87
of the tape line.
BOYS' OVERCOAT.
Use Is
scale corresponding with bust measure.
in
seven
pieces:
Front,
Pocket Laps and two Sleeve Is drafted
Back, Collar, two
portions.
upon the general plan
of
work.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
BOYS'
OVERCOAT—Continued.
21 Vs
!%
1-3
© o PL)
A 2V,k^
iV,
BOYS' STREET COSTUME. \"^\~
Use
corresponding
scale
with the
bust
measure. Is in ten pieces Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, Cuff, Belt, two Sleeve portions, and two portions of the Skirt. :
THE FRONT. plait down the centre of the front and a side plait on each side turning toward the centre of front.
Lay a box
THE BACK.
THE SKIRT
the centre of back and a side plait on each side turning toward centre of back.
by the waist measure. Is in two pieces Box plaiting for front and side plaiting for back part of skirt. Each plait is marked. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Lay a box
Each
pl^it
plait is
A V* ^
down
marked.
A
1
1
2
iVÂŤ
1^
I
f
>1
1
I
sV8
_L-. |F 's
M u pq
i
_4__-5VÂŤ |T\
iiu
^\
1
as
6
Waist line
1
5"/.
^\\i -9 1
\
1
1
NO.
1
1
1
1
1
^\
1
.
'V
A
I6V4
16%
Is drafted
:
BOYS' STREET
COSTUME—Continued. *\
OneHalf of Skirt
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M O
w
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ts ,^"
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&s
©
ts >i^
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1
BOYS' COSTUME.
15%^,;::::-
THE Use Is
COAT.
scale corresponding
in
five
pieces:
with the chest measure. Front, Back, Collar, and two
Sleeve portions.
This
is
drafted
upon the general plan
THE Use
work.
VEST.
with the chest measure. Front, Back and Strap.
scale corresponding
Is in three pieces:
THE Use
of
scale corresponding
Is in four pieces:
FJJiTS. with the hip measure. Pocket
Front, Back, Fly, and
Facing.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
BOYS'
COSTUMEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued.
BOYS' COSTUME-Oontinmed.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GENTLEMAN'S PRINCE ALBERT COAT. Use
scale
corresponding with the chest
measure. Front, Back, Side Back, Facing for Front, Collar and two
Is in eight pieces:
Skirt,
Sleeve portions. This is drafted out upon the general plan of
work. Follow the arrows closely. Regulate the length by the use
of
the
tape measure.
GENTLEMAN'S VEST. Take
the chest measure over the vest and Take measure for use scale to correspond. length from center of the back of the neck over the shoulder, close to the neck, down in front' the length to- be worn, plus one inch This will give correct length for seams. of vest. Make up with or without collar, as desired. The front can be cut higher or lower, to suit.
GENTLEMAN'S PANTS. Take
the measure directly over hip joint
this gives the
number
of scale to use.
Regulate size if the waist and length of leg by the tape line. The length of leg can be taken by inseam measure, or from the hip-joint to sole of shoe. If the length of leg has to be changed, change the knee line one-half the distance. Cut the right side of front on the inside line on the front for the fly. Cut the left side on the outer line.
(iXV
"^
GENTLEMAN'S SUITâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Continued.
T^TWAIST BAND
45
c
ZI3
CHILD'S COSTUME. This costume, as shown, is suited for either boy or girl. Draft by chest measOnly one-half the skirt is given, as ure. both sides are alike. In making up, use half inch seams. IJ^ spaces for hem on Vest. Sew Vest on front on line marked on line drawn from 2^:^ on top measure line to 4 at the bottom of vest. Work the button holes in the right side of the vest, sewing buttons on the left side.
There need be no button holes with bu.ttons on either side of vest. If desired, a double row of machine stitching may be used at each side of the front at edge next
< «»
S' >M ^-X*"
^
to vest.
front in draft is made so as to omit vest, if desired, and make plain front. If vest is used, cut goods on line marked
-.^*'
The
1}^ at neck, and 2% at bottom. If plain do not cut on this line, but use base line for front edge. The pocket is merely a strip sewed on, but the pocket can be put in if desired. If made for a girl, omit pocket. If desired, narrow braid or machine stitching around sleeves to form cuff, gives the suit a nice finish. In such cases omit the cuff drafted for it. Lay a box plait in front of skirt, making the line 61 to 60% from the cut edge of plait, placing this line at 56 at the top, and on the point at 57 Place 55 on at the bottom to form plait. 513^ at top and 553^^ on 51^ at the bottom all others are formed to form next plait ;
in like
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manner.
other style of plaits desired may be The skirt is a plain strip of goods length and width desired, and can be cut
Any
used.
without draft being
made and
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54
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M
plaits laid
^
in the goods. cs
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p-i
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^ ^ >:^
W
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ei
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— ——
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HALF OF BOX PLAIT IN FRONT
\«'
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51
.
\
liS
©
BOYS' OVERCOAT.
Use
scale corresponding with the chest
measure over the
coat.
Is
in
six
pieces: Front, Back,
Side
Back, Collar, Pocket
Lap, and two Sleeve portions. This garment
is
drafted out upon the general plan of work.
Regulate the length by the tape
r/| 5^
o 12;
s\
H
3V4
W-
Š p-i
J
V/8
6k
line.
BOYS' OVERCOAT-Continued.
->%
I7\t--
GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT. Draft by scale corresponding with Chest measure taken over the coat. Regulate length and size of waist by tape line. Take measure for Sleeve from center of back to knuckle joint.
Deduct width
back piece
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
less one inch for seamslength of sleeve by the scale corresponds with this measure, the length is correct; if not, change the scale line at wrist until it corresponds with tape measure, changing elbow line one-half the distance same direction. Regulate length to suit.
of
this gives length of sleeves.
If
â&#x20AC;&#x17E;
*
2%'
*
1
/
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
014 061 973 5