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REACHING THE TOP
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GAMECHANGERS
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20 TIME AND AGAIN Copy goes here. py goes hereopy Copy goes here.
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MAN OF THE HOUR
We talk to Ross Povey – one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts in Tudor watches .
34 BUY SOMETHING YOU WILL LOVE FOREVER
Some things never go out of style, which is just what you should expect in a piece of fine jewelry.
42 TWO UNIQUE VACATION GETAWAYS
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ON OUR COVER
Fourtane Jewelers is the reas only authorized Rolex and Patek Philippe Jeweler.
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29 THE FIVE MOST EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul Newman’s $17,752,500 Daytona and more.
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WATCHSPEAK
Uncomplicating the world of fine timepiece complication .
Welcome to this year’s edition of the Fourtané Magazine. If you love watches as much as we do, just reading about them can be the next best thing to strapping on a prized timepiece. We are coming out of the challenging — and terribly abnormal — Covid era. During this time, we’ve found that wearing a fine watch helps bring a sense of order to the day. That said, in the pages ahead, you'll read about the evolution of the “Tool Watch” and the integral part Rolex played. We talk to Ross Povey — one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts on Tudor watches — who takes us through the history of the chronograph and what makes it so special. In addition, there have been some very exciting watch introductions this year, including the new Patek Philippe Calatrava
discussed on page 23. Also, check out the five most expensive watches ever sold at auction on page 27 .
No matter what's on your wrist, if you are like us, the whole notion of time has probably changed for you over the last year and a half. There is nothing more precious. Time is to be savored, used wisely and shared with loved ones.
At Fourtané, we continue to do our best to make your experience with us time well spent, whether it’s in the store, on the phone, online, or on social media. We look forward to the future and the opportunity to serve you.
Wishing you all a safe and happy holiday.
John, Josh and Kris Bonifas
Keeping track of time is important in everyone’s life, but when it comes to climbing Mount Everest, it is absolutely vital. The summit is 8,848 meters, or 29,028 feet high, and once climbers pass 8,000 meters they have entered what some call the “death zone.” Oxygen is so limited, temperatures so low and winds so high that life is truly endangered. The brain and lungs can swell. Ribs can crack. It’s a place to get in and out of fast and then begin the arduous descent down the mountain before darkness sets in.
Every second counts, which is why Rolex has accompanied several history-making expeditions, helping mountaineers keep life-saving track of time. In doing so, Rolex has tested its timepieces under the harshest conditions imaginable, analyzing their performance. Then experts apply that research to the watches that end up on the retail market for watch lovers whose most difficult climb may be up the corporate ladder.
For the 50th anniversary of the Explorer and in celebration of the latest Explorer II, Rolex pays homage to the men and women who tackled Mount Everest, battling limits on time, the body and the spirit.
The mission: Install the highest weather station in the world to provide crucial information on climate change. More than one-fifth of the world’s population, some 1.6 billion people, get their water from glaciers in the Himalayas. Within the next 80 years, an estimated one-third of those glaciers, and the water they provide, will disappear because of global warming.
This is where Rolex steps in. The company introduced its Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019 to support the explorers and expeditions
seeking to collect data to protect our endangered planet, whether the mountains, the rain forests or the oceans. Perpetual Planet is assisting the National Geographic Society in efforts to find solutions to safeguard the environment, particularly ways to stem climate change and preserve the glaciers.
In 2019 a National Geographic-led team of 30 scientists developed five weather stations to be taken to Mount Everest and installed at various elevations along the climb. The team set up camps and began the ascent, carrying the disassembled pieces of each weather station along the way. The higher up the mountain they went, the shorter the actual time involved in installing each station grew because of depleting levels of oxygen, brutally lower temperatures and punishing winds.
National Geographic offered a vivid account of the expedition. The goal was to install the final station at the summit. The day when conditions allowed the climb, the trail was slowed because too many climbers were blocking the way. The unanticipated shortage of time meant the weather station would have to be installed at 8,400 meters, still in the so-called death zone. With every second counting, there was no room for more setbacks. If only…
No one had anticipated that the batteries for the drill needed for assembly might freeze. But freeze they did, until one clever team member stuck them under his armpit to warm them up. It worked.
When minutes and logistics count, time management can be the most important factor in conquering the world's extremes.
The troubles didn’t stop there: The weather monitors had to be attached to a pole, and someone forgot to bring the pole. Again, fast thinking was called for. One man realized that the handle of the shovel he was carrying could do the job, if its oval shape was battered into a circle and wrapped in duct tape (to decrease the size of the opening). Thanks to that last-minute ingenuity, the world’s highest weather station was assembled and data was sent by satellite from the mountains of the Himalayas to Washington D.C., in impressive time.
Ed Viesturs, a Rolex Testimonee, has climbed all 14 of the world’s peaks that are over 8,000 meters high (about 26,000 feet) without supplemental oxygen, and he has climbed Mount Everest seven times.
Strapped to his wrist on each ascent: his Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, which he credits with having a direct impact on his safety and success.
oxygen can become serious issues.”
“My watch, and the time it tells, is the key to my safety.”
Dr. Christine Janin was the first Frenchwoman to climb to the top of Mount Everest. A former Rolex Testimonee, she later became the first European woman to reach the top of the highest peaks on all seven continents. And as if that weren’t enough of pushing her body, fortitude and determination to the limit, she next became the first woman in the world to reach the North Pole on skis, without the aid of sled dogs.
How does she do it?
Ed Viesturs“I have a Rolex Explorer II that I received in 1994 when I had climbed three of the 8,000-meter peaks,” Viesturs said. “I wore my Explorer II every single day, since that moment, on all my climbs, and I still wear it today. It has never failed me. It’s probably the most important piece of equipment I have with me.”
“When climbing, time management is the most significant factor in my success, and ultimately my survival,” he continued. “Each half-hour counts.”
He calculates timings for the entire day, he explained, including the time he needs to begin his descent.
“I have a rule of turning around by 2 o’clock in the afternoon at the latest, whether or not I have reached the summit,” he said. “Some climbers have found themselves in life-threatening situations because they turned back too late. The cold, darkness, fatigue and lack of
“The key to a successful climb or expedition is to be in excellent shape when you set off,” she observed. “For that, you must have trained very thoroughly and have begun preparing several years earlier in order to gain sufficient experience and adapt the body to the conditions you are going to face.”
Not only does the body get stronger, but the spirit does, too. "Summits are conquered meter by meter, breath by breath,” Janin said. “On the way we discover qualities we didn't know we had that enable us to get to the top. We then feel immense joy in realizing that we know how to face up to dangers and overcome challenges posed by the environment." This is a philosophy that Janin has shared to help others through her foundation, À Chacun Son Everest! To Each His Everest! She helps both children and adults recovering from cancer and has arranged for more than 6,000 people to climb the French Alps, to discover how successfully challenging physical limits can make a person stronger in body and soul.
“My Explorer II is probably the most important piece of equipment I had with me on all these climbs.” —Ed Viesturs
Dr. Christine Janin
Watches can do so much more than tell time. They help climbers get to the top of the world’s highest peaks, and divers to the oceans’ deepest depths. These marvels of engineering are known as "tool" watches, and Rolex is the category’s undisputed star.
Like all tools, these devices enable humans to accomplish goals, and in Rolex’s case those have often been record-breaking and historymaking. To aid in the success of these missions, tool watches require the highest levels of technology, engineering, science and watchmaking, which the team at Rolex unequivocally possesses.
Over the years, Rolex has been in the enviable position of being able to use the many explorations it has supplied watches for as laboratories to test those very same timepieces. Upon completion of each mission, Rolex was able to examine and probe the watch’s performance and improve and adapt it accordingly. The original tool watches became templates to develop, refine and update, creating the watches that are available today for anyone to put on their wrist and enjoy, even people whose biggest adventure may be entering the boardroom or signing into a Zoom chat.
The 1950s were the golden age when three of Rolex’s most famous tool watches were born. That first full decade after World War II was a time of unparalleled optimism, and out of that spirit came an attendant desire for expansion and the exploration that precedes it. Rolex was there with watches that enabled ground-breaking adventures on land, air and sea.
The Rolex GMT Master was created in 1955 in response to changes in air travel. Long-haul flights were becoming more and more common, and the airlines needed a watch for its pilots that would clock the time back home as well as the time while traveling across oceans and foreign lands. The GMT Master was one of the few watches that could display the time in any two zones around the world, keeping both pilots
Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first divers’ watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). Its rotatable bezel allowed divers to read their immersion time.
Inspired by knowledge gained from this fascinating chapter of human adventure, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer, launched in 1953 to celebrate the victorious ascent of Everest, immediately acquired iconic status.
The GMT-Master was developed to meet the specific needs of airline pilots. It became the official watch of several airlines, among them the famous Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am. Its most distinguishing visual feature was the two-tone bezel which marked daytime from nighttime hours.
Rolex presented the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, dedicated to polar explorers, speleologists, and all those pushing the boundaries of exploration. The watch featured a distinctive 24-hour hand, an invaluable aid around the poles and beneath ground when you can't tell night from day.
and their globe-trotting passengers up to the minute, no matter where they were.
An extra hour hand was added to the innovation that made this multizone capability possible: a rotating two-tone bezel. The watch expert and historian Gregory Gardinetti explained the advantage. “If you don't touch the rotating bezel, the GMT hand will simply indicate the local time on a 24-hour scale. And if you move the bezel, you can choose the time zone you want. This is very useful information for pilots flying through different time zones." Rolex’s goal for the airlines was accomplished and the GMT became the official watch for Pan American Airways. Because Rolex continually improves on its watches, the GMT-Master available today is able to keep track of the time in three different time zones.
Another iconic tool watch to come out of the 1950s is the Submariner. Introduced in 1953, the Submariner was the first dive watch waterproof to 100 meters (about 330 feet). It also sported the all-important rotating bezel, which enabled the watch to keep track of immersion times and to calculate the varying amounts of time to
spend in decompression stops. The Submariner was so ground-breaking and respected that it soon cemented Rolex’s position as the watch brand for water exploration. Once again, Rolex continued to refine the watch, and the latest version of the Submariner can descend to a depth of 300 meters, or 1,000 feet.
Rolex has a history of supplying Oyster watches for expeditions climbing the various peaks of the Himalaya Mountains. In 1953
Rolex introduced the Explorer, inspired by the historic conquest of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Their expedition was the first to reach the 8,848-meter (29,028-foot) mountain’s summit. The Explorer inspired by their achievement was constructed of rugged stainless steel and featured a clear, very
This year Rolex introduced an all new Explorer .
Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
legible dial as well as a waterproof case that could withstand not just the moisture from melting snow and ice but also extremes in temperature as well. Despite the absence of any bells and whistles (like rotating bezels), the result of Rolex’s tool-making skill was just what the adventure-minded needed: “a very strong and accurate watch,” Gardinetti said.
Fast-forward nearly two decades, to 1971, when Rolex introduced the Explorer II. Rather than being designed to aid mountain climbers, the new watch was created with other types of expeditions in mind those exploring regions like caves or polar caps, where light is scarce or irregular. To meet the needs in those darkened or distanced environments, the Explorer II offered an extra 24-hour hand, a 24-hour marked bezel and an extremely luminous dial. The new design made it possible to know whether it was day or night, no matter where the wearer might be. “On the Explorer II, you have an indication of the 24 hours on the bezel,” Gardinetti said. “It helps to know, for example, if it's 5 a.m. or 5 p.m. This is useful if you're in a submarine or in space, as you don't know whether it's morning or afternoon. Or let’s say you are stuck in a tempest for days and losing any notion of time.” The Explorer II would come to the rescue. In its continuing quest to adapt, evolve and improve, Rolex
revised the Explorer II. The version introduced in 2011 grew a bit in size, from 39mm to 42mm and enlarged its luminescent hour markers and 24-hour signature orange arrow-tipped hands.
Which brings us to today. To celebrate its 50th birthday in 2021, Rolex has revamped the Explorer II yet again. It now features a new luminescing process that increases the brightness of the watch’s hands for better readability. It also incorporates the multi-patentwinning caliber 3285, which provides better precision, shock resistance and power reserve.
The Explorer and the Explorer II have always been produced in stainless steel. Until now. For 2021, the Explorer took on a new look. First, it’s been downsized, from 39mm back to its original 36mm. And while it’s being offered in the traditional stainless steel, in an alloy that provides unrivaled strength that Rolex calls Oystersteel, this year the case and bracelet also come in handsome new twotone versions. The bracelet features center links of a new 18-karat gold material called yellow Rolesor. The new 41mm Explorer II in Oystersteel features a completely redesigned case and bracelet.
The new Explorer and Explorer II offer ruggedness and refinement, reliability and good looks, providing the best of all worlds in one watch. From Rolex, of course.
Few companies can claim the historic archive of renown watches that Patek Philippe possesses, and visitors to Geneva can see them on display at the Patek Philippe Museum in the city’s center. There are timepieces more than 500 years old, as well as one of the first wristwatches, and also the remarkable Calibre 89, the watch with an astounding 33 complications that made it the most complicated watch ever when it was unveiled in 1989. There are also the three watches here, originally designed in the 1920s and ‘30s. They have inspired new renditions that pay homage to the best of the past while updating the watch’s design and functions for today.
Few watches are as iconic and admired as the Calatrava. The refined, elegant watch, a tribute to classic beauty, was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family acquired Patek Philippe. There have been various interpretations of the watch over the years, the most famous being Ref. 3919 with its white dial, black lacquered Roman numerals, and its bezel decorated with guilloche in a hobnail pattern known as Clous de Paris. The
latest version of the Calatrava, Ref. 6119G, retains the distinctive bezel but enlarges the case size to a more modern 39mm while keeping the watch a slender 8.1 mm thin. The dial has been updated as well; there are now sleek 18K gold “obus” hour markers with tapered, triangular shaped “dauphine” hands. Perhaps the biggest difference lies inside: a new manually wound, high performance movement (30-255 PS caliber) with twin barrels that ensures a 65-hour power reserve. So you can wind your watch on a Friday, and come Monday morning it’s still ready to go.
Above: Calatrava Ref. 96 from 1932, from the collection. At right: Calatrava Ref. 6119G
With the new Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Patek Philippe rounds out its watch family that is inspired by the manufacture’s aviator's watches from the 1930s. The very typical and highly recognizable design was launched in 2015 and has already established itself as a modern classic. Patek Philippe has a long and illustrious history with aviation. Perhaps none more so than the timepieces that reflect input from the great aviator Charles Lindbergh. The first development in creating a timepiece for aviators was to take the watch out of their pocket and put it on their wrist. The second, to create an hour-angle, or siderometer, wristwatch, which determines the plane’s position based on a complicated
formula of angles and degrees with the time difference in Greenwich, England where time 0 starts. Used together with a sextant and radio signal, the watch helped allow simpler, faster and more precise positioning. Two particularly noteworthy exemplars of such hour-angle – or siderometer – wristwatches were developed
cent of the harnesses that allowed pilots to keep their survival kits readily deployable in emergencies; Ref 7234R-01 has a rose-gold buckle and vintage brown calfskin strap; Ref 7234G sports a white gold buckle on a shiny navy blue calfskin strap.
Perpetual calendars are amongst the most complicated of any timepiece, requiring a movement composed of hundreds of parts arranged in layers, which is why these large complications were historically housed in the bigger dimensions of a pocket watch.
In 1925, Patek Philippe changed all that when the company introduced its first perpetual calendar wristwatch. The watch presented the month, date and day in three separate windows.
by Patek Philippe and are now both on display at the Patek Philippe Museum.
The advent of GPS put an end to all that, but Patek Philippe pays homage to those glory days with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.
It is a precise and dependable timekeeping instrument with a time-zone function that is a boon for today’s travelers. It keeps track of time in two zones, and is designed to be worn by women as well as men thanks to its medium-sized format (37.5mm.)
A self-winding movement (324 S C FUS caliber) and skeleton hands display home time while a solid hand indicates local time. There’s also day/night indication for both the local and home time. Another nod to history is its clevis prong buckle, reminis-
As a result, the case to accommodate it had to be rather thick. But once again, the experts at Patek Philippe went to work to come up with a technically-feasible, aesthicallyattractive solution. For the first time, Patek Philippe features a Perpetual Calendar wristwatch with a completely inline perpetual calendar display that had previously only existed in pocket watches that were originally created for the American market. Ref. 5236P features a new self-winding movement (31-260 PS QL caliber) as well as the three patent pending applications that were necessary for the innovations embedded in the mechanism, all within the small, thin, wearable confines of a wristwatch.
There are few watches as influential to Patek Philippe, and to the entire world of horology, than the Calatrava. The first Calatrava Ref. 96 was unveiled in 1932, the year the Stern family took over what was then hard to believe a struggling watch brand, Patek Philippe. The success of the Ref. 96 helped catapult the company to the prominence it enjoys today. The watch’s very name reveals its significance. It refers to the Cross of Calatrava, an order of powerful knights from the Middle Ages. The cross bears four fleur-de-lys which Patek Philippe adopted for its emblem.
Why was the Calatrava so revolutionary? At the time it was unveiled, round wrist watches were, surprisingly, not in favor. The Calatrava, with its spare, refined round case, changed all that. The watch was admired for its elegant simplicity. It was designed along the principles of the Bauhaus movement, which rests on the necessity of form following function, so beauty and practicality are supreme.
The function of the Calatrava: to tell the time. A simple white dial with minimally designed hands and markers did the job, beautifully. The Sterns relaunched Patek Philippe with the Ref. 96, and the watch world took notice. Today, round watch cases are more the norm than the exception, and the Calatrava continues as an important part of Patek Philippe, past and present.
Over the years the Calatrava has evolved to meet the times, and there have been dozens of variations. The original was 31 mm; the latest versions clock in larger to appeal to a contemporary clientele that prefers a bigger dial. In the 1980s a decorative hobnail, or clous
de Paris design was added to the bezel and continues to prove popular. In 1982 a version (Ref. 3796) designed for women was introduced, which also continues to evolve. There are Calatravas in yellow gold, white gold, rose gold and platinum, with metal bracelets or calfskin; Calatravas with moonphases, date complications, an invisible dustcover over the case, a bezel surrounded with diamonds. What remains true is the purity of the aesthetic: the perfect circle.
The latest models released this year provide a case in point of the Calatrava’s continuing evolution. The biggest change of the new Reference 6119G is something that can’t be seen but definitely affects its function. The watch contains a new movement that provides a 65hour time reserve.
The newest Calatrava Pilot Travel
Time pays homage to the glory days of aviation when watches were an essential aid in flying a plane by helping to precisely determine its position. Reference 7234R-001 (with its rose gold buckle and vintage brown calfskin strap) and Reference 7234G (with its white gold buckle and navy calfskin strap) have day /night indicators to keep the time in two different time zones, so today’s modern travelers can know the time back home and the time of wherever they’ve journeyed to, while the watch retains its eloquent simplicity.
It’s yet another example of form following function that has made the Calatrava and all its variations one of the most important and influential timepieces ever made.
For Ross Povey, there’s nothing more desirable than a Tudor timepiece, whether it’s to wear or collect.
When I went to find out more about them, I discovered that there was very little out there. This was back in 2002, and from then on, I made it my mission to be the expert and research their history. I set up a site, TudorCollector.com, that’s now a big source for information on Tudors and talks a lot about vintage ones.
Ross Povey is the founder of TudorCollector.com, which is internationally regarded as the preeminent resource for the vintage Tudor collecting community. As part of his extensive research, Ross has unearthed some of the most important Tudor watches, especially military-issued pieces.
The brand was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, who wanted to offer consumers watches that were affordable but maintained a remarkably high quality.
Tudors are prized for their style, oyster cases and selfwinding mechanism. Each comes with a guarantee for performance and reliability.
Povey, based in Cheshire, England, is one of the world’s foremost experts on Tudor watches and shares his insights and fascination about the brand below.
Q. How did you become an expert on Tudor watches?
A. I’ve been into watches and the mechanics of how they worked since I was a kid. I indulged my interest on online forums with fellow enthusiasts.
Occasionally, people on these forums would chat about Tudors and post pictures. I was drawn to them because they are playful and have colorful dials.
Q. When did you get your first Tudor Chronograph?
AIn 2008, from a local watch dealer. I bought it at a good price and wore it for many years until I traded it in for another Tudor.
Q. Today, the Black Bay Chrono, which was recently introduced, is the watch everybody wants. Why do you think that is?
A. The demand for vintage watches has never been higher than it is today, and the prices are insane. What Tudor does incredibly well is launch watches with a style that appeals to vintage fans, and the
We talk to Ross Povey — one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts on Tudor watches
— who takes us through the history of the chronograph and what makes it so specialThe Tudor Black Bay Chrono,graph, 2021
Black Bay Chrono is a perfect example of that. It has all the vintage design cues like the white dial with black sub-dials, but it’s a modern high-tech watch at heart with super quality. It’s not as delicate as a vintage watch.
Q. Can you tell us a bit about the origins and history of the Tudor Chronograph? We know the Oysterdate 7000 Series was introduced in 1970, but what exactly about it made it take off? And
how did it get the nickname “home plate”?
A. I think it was so popular because of the style, which was more daring than anything else out there at the time. The gray dial had strong orange accents, and the design was a standout that resonated with watch buyers.
As for the nickname, the dial has five-sided arrow markers like the home plate does in baseball
Q. That model was followed by the 7100 series, the Monte Carlo in ‘71, another cool name. How did these timepieces differ, and how are they technologically different from today’s versions?
A. Monte Carlo’s dial had similar colors, but the dial itself was a different shape. It looked like a roulette table, hence its name. Today’s versions are more precise with timetelling and sturdier.
Q. You’ve said that the Tudor Blue Heritage Chrono is one of your favorites. What in particular do you like about it?
A. It was released in 2014 and very faithful to the original Monte Carlo watches, which I loved. However, this new version had modern technology and was meant to be an everyday watch. It’s also waterproof so it could withstand wear and tear, which a vintage Monte Carlo couldn’t.
Q. Are there any other Tudor Chronographs that stand out in your mind? And why?
A. Probably the Black Bay Chrono Dark. It’s all black and a limited-
edition piece. It stands out on your wrist when you wear it, and it’s rare because Tudor had never done a limited-edition watch before.
so cool and great for everyday but also for special occasions. I also own the Home Plate from 1970, but I reserve that for special occasions high days and holidays as I like to say.
Q. Which Tudor/s are you going to pass down to your children?
AThe 1970 Home Plate. I would sell any other watch I own, but this one is a true heirloom that I never want to part with.
Q. Why is it a good time to collect? What are some good choices right now? And what advice do you have for seasoned as well as new Tudor collectors?
Q. Do you think the 2020s are a particularly important time for the chronograph? Are design and technology going through big changes? Or is the classic chronograph taking solid, almost permanent form?
AThe chronograph is timeless and hasn’t changed in form and function since the 1930s. There’s nothing groundbreaking about what the new models do, but they are becoming better quality in the way the movements are manufactured. They’re more precise and more durable.
Q. What is your personal favorite among the Tudor chronographs? What are the things you love about it? And if you have more than one Tudor Chrono, what are they and are there different occasions in which you wear them?
A. Actually, I think this is a difficult time if you want to collect because the prices are sky high. The classic Tudors are so expensive and hard to find. My advice would be to look at the Chronos from the mid to late 1990s if you’re searching for collectibles. You can still buy them for a good value, and, in an ideal world, they’ll be worth a lot more down the line. But there are no guarantees of that, of course.
A. My hands-down favorite is the Black Bay Chrono Dark. It’s just The new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, full view and detail
The most expensive watch ever sold at auction was the $31 million paid for the one-off Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime sold at the 2019 Christie’s-run Only Watch auction in Geneva. That was a charity event, and prices are always unusually high in the name of doing good.
The prices that interest most collectors are those paid
$17,752,500
Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, $17,752,500, Phillips New York 2017 Arguably, the most famous timepiece in the world.
$11,002,000
Patek Philippe ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, CHF 11,002,000, Phillips Geneva 2016. It's the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions.
for wristwatches at regular auctions, which have reached incredible highs as well. The top prices ever paid for watches sold at auction should inspire any watch lover to buy a new one with the potential to sell it later, and retire.
$9,008,856
Patek Philippe World Time in 18K pink gold with double-signed dial, $9,008,856, Christie's Hong Kong 2019 One of only seven 2523 dualcrown world time wristwatches believed to have been issues in pink gold. and only the fifth to be offered at auction.
$5,937,500
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6265 “The Unicorn”, 5,937,500, Phillips Geneva 20 being the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.
$5,708,885
Patek Philippe 18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, $5,708,885, Christies Geneva 2010. Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.
When Cartier released its first Santos watch in 1904, it was a ground-breaker.
In an era of pocket watches, this one was designed with a leather strap so it could be worn on the wrist, to free the hands of the man who inspired it, the aviator Alberto SantosDumont, so he could fly a plane unencumbered.
There were more differences. The watch was square instead of round, inspired by the modern urban architecture of the Eiffel Tower. And, also somewhat shocking, there were screws on the bezel that were visible, delivering another industrial touch. All in all,the Santos watch was not just revolutionary; it was mightily attractive too. No wonder it proved to be so popular that Cartier relaunched the collection in 2018 to great fanfare.
Recently, the Santos has been updated with the introduction of an all black edition. The big change here is that the steel case has a black ADLC coating, including on the bezel and the crown. The case measures 47.5mm by 39.8mm with a date complication at six o’clock. A black faceted spinel set in the crown completes the look.
The Santos has a caliber that makes it resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch may be exposed to on an everyday basis. Additionally, for all the deep-sea divers out there, it is now water-resistant up to 100 meters, a feat accomplished with minimal case thickness. The watch’s functionality is elemental; it has been made and tested to stand up to changes in position, humidity, temperature, pressure, impact and acceleration so these factors do not interfere with its accuracy.
Then there’s the watch strap of the All Black. There is a choice of black rubber with screw-shaped rivets or black alligator skin. The straps are interchangeable and can be switched in the flick of a wrist, thanks to the Cartier QuickSwitch™ system. The link bracelet can be customized for a personalized fit, removing or adding links with the touch of a button, the result of another innovation, Cartier’s SmartLink™ self-fitting technology.
What remains the same are the features that made the Santos so beloved in the first place: the signature square shape, the visible screws, the refined yet rugged aesthetic, the masterly workmanship and the ultimate reliability of function.
This is not the first time Cartier has updated one of its iconic models. A few years ago, the company released a new twist on its Panthère and Tank 100 watches, according to Cara Barrett, the editor of the influential watch site Hodinkee. It makes sense, she says, that “Cartier is looking to its heritage to recreate its vintage pieces.” But they’re not simply leaving well enough alone and reissuing the timepieces; they’re updating them as well. “It’s nice that they are trying to fine-tune different models to make them better.”
Barrett is a fan of all things Cartier because “they understand design and have nailed the aesthetic. It’s clean, elegant and understated. You know it’s a Cartier without its being ostentatious.”
“The Santos design,” she adds, “will never go out of style. After all, classics become classics for a reason: they look good, and they’re timeless.” Which is all anyone could want in a watch.
Roberto Coin is one of the world’s most popular jewelry designers. His pieces have been worn by fashion icons and celebrities like Michelle Obama, Oprah, Laura Linney, Sophia Vergara, and Kate McKinnon. His designs radiate luxury, style and sophistication, inspired by Vicenza, the “City of Gold” and the heart of Italy’s 18K gold manufacturing industry, with over 700 years of goldsmithing tradition.
The look is thoroughly modern and is designed for everyday wear. To give you a sampling of this exquisite collection, we've chosen a few of our favorite pieces that can be worn over and over again — alone or stacked and layered for bolder impact.
Some things never go out of style, which is just what you should expect in a piece of fine jewelry. It should be something you love and will wear forever — and like you— never lose its ability to dazzle.
A fabulous necklace Victorian Amethyst Collar - Substantial and glamorous, this Victorian Collar is set with large faceted ovals of exceptionally color-saturated amethyst, each stone nestled in its own granulated golden bezel. The absence of diamonds, yet assertive size allow this piece to be worn for any occasion. It remains protected in its original presentation box and is finished with a safety chain
It’s always the right moment to buy something you willlove forever
51 Carat Aquamarine & Diamond Necklace - This stunning pendant was converted from an art deco era clip/brooch and is suspended from an attached diamond chain of more modern manufacture. The pendant is rendered in platinum with an 18 karat white gold back frame and the chain is 18 karat white gold. The elongated cushion faceted aqua boasts exceptional color for a stone of this size and weighs 51 carats. The major stone is accented by 2.72 carats of diamonds on the chain and set in the elaborate frame of the aqua. Bold, yet ultra-feminine, this piece will not go unnoticed and is certain to encourage compliments. The pendant measures 1.75 inches by 1 inch at its widest point. The chain is 16 inches long.
Henry Dunay "Sabi" Collection Diamond BraceletEighteen karat yellow gold bracelet from the Henry Dunay "Sabi" collection adorned with 17.12 carats total weight of micro pave set round brilliant cut natural diamonds. The piece is hand textured and boasts the incredible hand one would expect from an important piece from this esteemed designer. The golden links glow among the dazzling diamond sections. It has a hidden clasp and safety clasp and is made in the USA. The bracelet measures 8 inches and is accompanied by the original presentation box. The original retail price was $138,570.
Victorian Bold Yellow Gold Brooch and Earring Set, circa 1850A pair of bold Etruscan Revival antique earrings circa 1850. Beautiful granulation was executed with wonderful symmetry and expertise. Truly a high style antique set of gorgeous earrings and brooch, fantastic!
8.74 Carat Oval Opal and Diamond Cluster Ring - A striking oval opal, with strong flashes of blue and green, framed in a bright border of brilliant white diamonds. The stone is set in a handmade heavy platinum mounting. The diamonds weigh 3.33 carats in total. Size 7.25 can be resized on request.
Edwardian Earrings with Rose Cut Diamonds and Lavender Enamel - C/1915. Made of silver over 14 karat rose gold and decorated with intensely-hued lavender enamel, the earrings are an exceptional display of antique finery and were clearly conceived with masterful skill.
Victorian Pear-Framed Lover’s Eye Pin - C/1820. A charming antique bit for the collector, the miniature portrait is rendered on ivory and framed by natural pearls. Set in rose gold. 7/8 by ¾ inches.
Citrine, Onyx & Diamond Drop EarringsUnique and striking, the earrings measure 2.25 inches long and .75 inches wide at their widest point. Mounted in 14 karat yellow gold, the warmly-hued citrines are suspended from an art deco style top set with alternating black onyx and white diamonds. The dramatic contrast is a symbiotic variance from the soft, organic allure of citrine. Enjoy these earrings with a crisp blouse in the day and evening gown in the evening.
Rose & White Gold Abacus Bracelet with 9.62 Carats of Diamonds, signed "Ge mayel" - This is such a fun piece to wear, offering movement, bold style and in spired craftsmanship… it even makes a lovely sound when moved around!
Designed as a wide bangle which opens with a single hinge, tapering from 1 1/8 to 3/4 of an inch wide at the back. The front is decorated with six rows of white gold squares, each set with four brilliant round white diamonds and ef fortlessly sliding to and fro on a diamond-studded track; each block glides with gravity. Interior diameter 2 by 2 3/8 inches. Use this bracelet as an abacus to count your blessings… but not your chickens before they hatch! And if you like it, kindly have a peek at the matching ring, also available among our listings!
Granulated Gold, Gemstone & Enamel Cross Pendant with Original Box - A stunning antique treasure, made of 18k yellow gold and decorated with gemstones and enamel. The open filigree detail and extensive granulation are impeccably preserved and are complimented by pink topaz, rubies, citrine and enamel. Measuring 3.5 by 2.25 inches, this piece will not go unnoticed. It would make a worthy addition to the collection of any antique jewelry enthusiast.
6.13 Fancy Brown-Yellow Pear Diamond in Custom Bloodstone Mounting - Con ceived as a collaboration between Fourtane and Seaman Schepps/Trianon, this truly unique creation is distinctive and, indeed, one-of-a-kind. The bloodstone mounting has been custom-designed to showcase the alluring beauty of the natural fancy colored center diamond. GIA describes the major diamond as exhibiting fancy brownish yellow color, with Vs2 clarity. The pear brilliant diamond weighs 6.13 carats. The center diamond is set in 18k rose gold and the interior of the mounting is also lined in rose gold. The bezel-set white round brilliant diamonds peppered in the mounting are framed in 18k white gold. The ring is a size 6.5 and cannot be resized.
It’s one of life’s luxuries you have to have. And you don’t have to be a collector to shop our pre-owned selection of men’s and women’s luxury timepieces. Every Fourtané certified pre-owned watch is guaranteed authentic and accompanied by a one-year warranty that covers internal mechanical defects. Our warranty repairs are performed in-house by Fourtané’s team of master watchmakers or sent for repair to the original manufacturer of the timepiece.
18K yellow gold Movado pocket watch - C/1925. This manuallywound pocket watch is adorned with a sapphire-tipped crown and a pair of old European cut white diamonds. The stylized case and Breguet numerals are a handsome compliment to one other. The piece measures 1.75 inches by 1.75 inches including the bale.
Pre-owned vintage Rolex rare yellow gold Datejust Ref #6305. This timepiece will make a prized addition to the wardrobe of the seasoned collector. It is a truly rare example. It is noted for its beautiful original condition including the hands and bracelet, as well as its uncommon black dial. Look at those markers! 36mm
Pre-owned vintage Rolex 18K rose gold Lady. This rare and collectable automatic lady’s Rolex ref. #4487 is made of 18 karat rose gold and retains its original, beautifully-styled associated bracelet. It is important to note that the bracelet is of Rolex manufacture. The original dial with sub-seconds display is unrestored and remains in mint condition. Automatic lady’s watches were uncommon during the 1940s and this special example would have been among the finest time pieces of its era. The case has a 22.5 millimeter diameter and the watch measures 7.5 inches in overall length when flat.
Pre-owned vintage Rolex retro rose gold oversized bracelet watch. An exceptional example of a mid-century Rolex creation made of 18 karat rose gold, this highly stylized bracelet is comprised of polished butterfly- or bowtie-shaped links, the pattern only interrupted to showcase a 12mm honeycomb watch dial. The texture of the dial remains crisp and distinct. Note the raised markers. The movement is manually-wound. The bracelet measures 6.5 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. This impressive and gorgeous accessory will also keep you punctual! It’s a bold and chic statement, courtesy of the most esteemed watch brand.
Circa 1950’s
The decorative art of guilloché is one of the traditional crafts of watchmaking. It consists of engraving a dial or case with intricate patterns, from sunbursts to geometric shapes. It adds eyecatching flair to a timepiece and depth to the dial.
The world of watches is complicated. In fact the word for all that goes on inside a watch to make it tick is “complications.” Complications are intricate mechanisms that enhance a watch movement, also known as a caliber. They provide information other than simply keeping time. To try and uncomplicate the complications, here's a quick guide to some commonly used terms illustrated from our Patek Philippe Collection:
Grand complications include timepieces with the most complicated functions including minute repeaters, split-second chronographs and perpetual calendars. Ref # 5270J-001 (shown at right) also includes moon phases, leap year and day/night indication.
In the 16th century the need for a moonphase watch dial arose for travelers. A full moon meant a lighter sky and safety when planning an overnight journey. The moonphase mechanism consists of a 30-toothed disc. The disc has two gold-colored moons opposite each other on the disc, surrounded by gold- colored stars on a blue background. As the days pass, the moon will appear from the left side of the window.
A chronograph, the most common complication, is a type of watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. A separate hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero to measure elapsed time to one-fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. A chronograph typically has two to three subdials and a return- to-zero button, or pusher, on the side of the case. The top pusher starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom pusher resets it.
A perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, an d year, automatically adjusting for leap year and the length of the month. It will only need adjusting for the rare years in which a leap year is due but doesn't take place, the next being the year 2100 and then 2400.
The first wristwatch with the power reserve mechanism was created by Breguet in 1933. However, this was only a prototype with only one watch assembled. Today certain models like the Flyback Chronograph (shown) have an extended power reserve of 45 hours. The power reserve indicator on the dial lets the wearer know how much energy the watch still has, like the gas gauge on your automobile.
Ref # 5230R-012
Ref # 5270J-001
Ref # 7150/250R-001
Ref # 5960/01G-001 (detail)
Ref # 5146G-010
PGA Tour event AT&T Pebble Beach
Pro-Am is held annually on three of the Monterey Peninsula’s most renowned golf courses: Pebble Beach Golf Links, Spyglass Hill Golf Course, and Monterey Peninsula Country Club Shore Course. Players include professional golfers, celebrities, and prominent business leaders.
All tournament proceeds benefit local charities, and a few events leading up to the main tournament add an energetic vibe to the week. In years past, they’ve included the AT&T Every Shot Counts Charity Challenge and the Million Dollar Hole-in-One for Charity and feature celebrities and wellknown athletes.
The practice rounds on Tuesday and Wednesday are open to spectators. They’re an incredible opportunity to watch pros and other big names up close and take photos and videos.
■ The Lodge at Pebble Beach is an oceanfront resort that’s a favorite for golfers, who consider a stay to be a tradition whenever they’re in town.
■ The Inn at Spanish Bay is a dreamy retreat set amid pine trees and an oceanfront golf course.
■ Casa Palmero, with only 24 rooms, is a boutique property that evokes the feeling of staying at your best friend’s home who owns a fabulous Mediterranean-inspired villa. The service is stellar.
Daniel Berger
n the Pebble beach hotels sell out first so those are ones to book ASAP
rn Dress in layers as the weather changes throughout the day. Mornings and evenings tend to be chilly and windy while temperatures can be 20 degrees higher midday.
n Since the tournament is played on three courses, it’s best to plan out which ones you want to hit and on what days. Of course, it depends on the players you’d like to see.
Long recognized as one of the top automobile shows in the world, the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance is an exhibit of 200 or so of the best collector cars in the world. Most are privately owned while a handful are on loan from museums.
The action happens on the 18th fairway at Pebble Beach Golf Links and the areas surrounding it. Spectators can look forward to a showcase that includes antiques dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries such as the Locomobile Steamer. Then there are hand-built cars from between the two world wars such as the Duesenberg from Indiana. Concepts for the future-- the next sleek Aston Martin perhaps-- are also part of the lineup.
Numerous events take place throughout the week such as invite-only dinners and the Tour D’Elegance where most the cars display embark 17-mile drive on Highway One. Pebble Beach Concours culminates a competition where car industry experts vote for winners in different categories such as Best Antique Car.
Dawn Patrol on the final day when the competing cars are prepped and polished for the competition. It does mean showing up at 5:30 a.m., but you’ll be treated to doughnuts, coffee, and an event hat and also have a chance to meet the car owners.
■ L’Auberge Carmel, a Relais & Chateaux property in Carmel, is set a few blocks from the beach and home to the excellent fine dining restaurant Aubergine.
■ InterContinental the Clement Monterey is a waterfront resort next to the Monterey Bay Aquarium and in the heart of town.
■ Bernardus Lodge & Spa, in Carmel Valley, is set among 28 acres of vineyards and fruit orchards. The spa is exceptional as the farm-totable restaurant Lucia.
n Most hotels are sold-out by early spring so if you’re coming from out of town, make your reservations as soon as possible.
n Outside food is permitted, and attendees are encouraged to bring a picnic basket. Put together an elaborate spread- think caviar, champagne, and cheeses- pack a blanket, and enjoy a sumptuous lunch on the scenic lawns. You can also buy food onsite.
n VIP tickets, which get you a front row seat to the final competition, and other perks such as gift bags and food, sell out by early spring. Buy them early before they’re gone.
CLASSIC MEETS MODERN: Our new flexible Diamond bracelets and the Voluma Link necklace.
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