Daydream Magazine Fashion Special

SOCIETIES SCRAPBOOK

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s u s i e b u b b l e . c h o l e . a m e r . s h o w s t u d i o . k r a u s s . b e t t y j a c k s o n . beyondthevalley.bebaroque.milesaldridge. b o l o n g a r o t r e v o r . k a t e y e n g l a n d . b e t h f e n t o n . E s t e t h i c a . f r a n c e s c a b u r n s . c o r r i n n e d a y. f r a n c e s c a b u r n s . f r a n c e s c o v e z z o l i . h u m a n e n d e a v o u r . s a r t o r i a l i s t . r i c h a r d n i c o l l . b a c k s t a g e e y e . d a v i d b o w e r s . a d v a n c e d s t y l e a n d b e a u t y.

C h a r l o t t e O l y m p i a D e l l a l . m a r i l y n m o n r o e .

R i c h a r d N i c o l l . G a r e t h P u g h . D e u i l A v e u .

L a w r e n c e S c h i l l e r .

M a r c e l o B u r l o n . L i s s y E l l e .

R a l p h L a u r e n . g u n a n d s p a r r o w . n o r t h c i r c l a r . T e a t u m J o n e s .

M u r a k a m i . n a o m i c a m p b e l l . P a r i s h i l t o n .

Editors/ArtDirection: Avue Darien-Gordon - Vicky Kear Advertising/Marketing: James Collier Website Creation: Voice Group Front Cover Artwork: Cody Hamilton Mix: Basserk Crew All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of this publication is strictly forbidden without the prior written authorisation of the featured artists or publisher. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any forms or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without written permission. Views expressed in the magazines content, venues and so forth belong to the contributors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher. The contents are believed correct at the time of printing. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors, omissions or for changes in details. Registered company No.6102552 - ISSN: 1752-6833

Charlotte Olympia Dellal

Luxury accessories designer Charlotte Olympia Dellal graduated from London’s Cordwainers in 2004 and spent time at Ungaro and Giambattista Valli before launching her eponymous London-based shoe brand Charlotte Olympia in 2007.

With a design philosophy focused on femininity and inspired by the allure of glamour of old, Charlotte Olympia designs have become synonymous with classic shapes and meticulous attention to detail. Each shoe is handcrafted in Italy using only the finest materials and is finished with the brand’s signature gold spider web on the sole.

Charlotte Olympia’s leopard prints, fan detailing and arresting use of colour have been coveted by Sarah Jessica Parker, Keira Knightly, Blake Lively, Katy Perry and Beyoncé amongst others.

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Photograph by Julia Kennedy

david bowers The Collector 38x30 Oil on Linen 2009

david bowers

David Bowers, (1965) began his illustration career working mostly with book publishers in New York City in which he completed over one hundred covers in a span of over ten years. He has received numerous awards and accolades for his illustrations, but in 2004 decided to take a more independent move away from corporate illustration towards fine art. Now, instead of creating paintings based on copy from a publisher, Bowers has the freedom to create his paintings solely from his imagination. His realistic paintings have been described as a blend of Renaissance master and figural surrealist, with a touch of fantasy art mixed in. There is always a message in his work.

For him the idea is the most challenging and rewarding part of the painting, and symbolism is a main ingredient in his work.

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Corrine Day 1965-2010

An iconic fashion photographer, Day had an immense influence on fashion photography.

She took the comfortable and commercial tone of fashion photography and gave it a kick up the arse with her honest, documentative and often biographical style.

Her penchant for intimate relationships with her sitters has given us a collection of the most intriguing and candid portraits and her images of Kate Moss are some of the most famous in fashion photography history.

beth fenton

Beth began her career as the assistant to Venetia Scott, and since then her career has flourished. She has contributed many high profile magazine including Another, i-D, Dazed & Confused, Paradis, Tar Art, V Magazine, Interview, and American Vogue and is currently the contributing fashion editor at Self Service.

Her list of clients is impressive to say the least, and we love her surreal style in these images.

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Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection VIEW MORE

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Susie Bubble

I still feel like a fashion outsider.

Established blog queen, Susie Bubble and her blog StyleBubble. Truly an inspiration to all aspirational fashion bloggers and indeed, business people, Susie started her blog as a personal project in 2006 and has become a major fashion authority since. Front Row at every catwalk during fashion week, internationally and at home, she tirelessly blogs about fashion, designers and events, and where it all started, whats she’s wearing.

In 200? She was hired as the commissioning editor at Dazed Digital, to leave in 2010 to continue with her freelance writing and personal projects. Despite her major fashion credentials, she says, “I still feel like a fashion-outsider.”

Front row at every catwalk during fashionweek

Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection

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david bowers Rudolf 36x48 Oil on Linen 2010

Deuil Aveu

Photographer Jemma Rylah Stylist Chloe Amer

inspiration?

The inspiration for this shoot was originally to do with the ‘uniform of black’, how the fashion industry conform to an unspoken uniform. When dressed in this uniform, passers by often comment“are you going to a funeral?”

This idea was where the dark-side of the shoot came from.

Advanced Style: Age and Beauty The Fashion Blog’s Doyennes Give a Lesson in Sartorial Splendor

We’re having a senior moment: From textile mogul Iris Apfel in her trademark owl spectacles to artist Ilona Royce Smithkin in DIY orange eyelashes, the stars of photographer Ari Seth Cohen’s Advanced Style blog represent the most fashionable older ladies and gentlemen of New York and beyond. Today on NOWNESS we feature Cohen’s iconic style mavens in an exclusive short by filmmaker Lina Plioplyte. “Hearing them speak about clothing is so fascinating,” says Cohen, who launched his site in 2008 and also has a documentary in the works. “There is history and memories in what they are wearing and I think it’s important to show that storytelling aspect, as well as their vitality and creativity.” Cohen spoke to NOWNESS about silver-haired confidence.

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Fashion THEN...

Fashion NOW...

The Face Of Fashion Is EverChanging, Going Round And Round, As Is It’s Cyclical Nature. Daydream Interviews Two Designers With Careers Decades Apart, To See How The Industry Has Changed Over The Last 20 Years.

Specialising In Menswear, Olivia Coskie Graduated Last Year With A Degree In Fashion

Design From Uca. Her Designs Featured At Graduate Week To Great Acclaim, Being Nominated For The Visionary Knitwear Award And The Gala Show, And Prompting Her Work To Be Featured In Idol Magazine And Esquire. We Speak To Her About Her First Impressions Of The Big Bad World Of Fashion, And Where She Sees Herself In 20 Years Time.

interview with Olivia Coskie

by Vicky Kear READ MORE

Backstage Eye

“I don’t know who invented high heels, but all women owe him a lot” ~marilyn monroe

david bowers White Meat 28x40 Oil on Linen 2010

Richard Nicoll

Always a favourite, Richard Nicolls collection was beautiful; elegant, intriguing and extremely well put together.

Backstage was electric, Nicolls team are very close and a definite family feeling prevails behind the scenes at his show, with every person willing it to go without a hitch. On the rails the clothes look reasonably simple; perfect tailoring, lots of layers, a glimpse of Swarovski writing here, a petrol velvet bodice there‌ But as soon as its first looks, the collection comes to life, and the genius of Nicolls layering and cut is obvious. With inspirations as removed from each other as the 20’s and moths (it is Latin moths names that are inscribed onto sweaters in Swarovski) it’s a far cry with the Bowie inspired collection from last season, but retains a similar feel, in the use of elegant shapes, colour blocking and complimentary textures.

Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection

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david bowers The Secret 14x20 Oil on Panel 2008

Bloody Burberry READ MORE

Scott Schuman’s Sartorialist Scott Schuman’s Sartorialist has become a street style bible. “I started The Sartorialist simply to share photos of people that I saw on the streets of New York that I thought looked great. When I worked in the fashion industry, I always felt that there was a disconnect between what I was selling in the showroom and what I was seeing real people (really cool people) wearing in real life.

I didn’t want to become a “fashion photographer” but I knew somehow that my loves of fashion and photography would eventually merge. I just never guessed it would be in the form of a blog.” Now one of the most well-known and respected fashion blogs, the Sartorialist is a constant source of inspiration and fresh takes on fashion. The Sartorialist is now listed on vogue.com’s blog hub, and was selected as one of time Magazines top 100 design influencers. Not bad for somebody who didn’t set out to be a blogger…

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Francesco Vezzoli “Whatever great artist or thinker we choose to look at, they’ve all used whatever weapon they might have to attract interest to their thoughts. I don’t see anything wrong with using celebrities to make clearer, more understandable statements or, in my case, simply to reflect a reality that has a huge power over our lives.

I insist that the taboo surrounding my work comes from the fact that people get stuck on the presence of Gore Vidal or Cate Blanchett. I’m kind of stuck...too.”

Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection VIEW MORE

Katy English READ MORE

In 1988 Katy graduated from a 4 year Fashion design and technology course at Manchester Polytechnic. Her first role was as a stylist at the Evening Standard. She then moved to the newly launched Dazed and Confused magazine where she swiftly established herself as one of the most innovative and creative fashion-makers of the early 1990_s and it was her striking talent that caught the eye of Alexander McQueen.

This inspired relationship developed into a full decade

of creative consultancy in both the McQueen and Givenchy design ateliers. Katy became a creative force involved in all stages of design, development and production of the women_s Ready to Wear collections, shoes and accessories and styling the celebrated shows and advertising campaigns.

In addition she worked on the development and launch of the McQ line.

Whilst working with McQueen Katy held the position of Fashion Director at Dazed

Swiftly established herself as one of the most innovative & creative fashionmakers of the early 1990’s

and Confused for many years.

Jefferson Hack also appointed her to collaborate with him on setting up the first Another Magazine in 2001. Katy is currently the creative consultant behind Kate Moss’ much publicised Top Shop brand.

She has been instrumental in shaping and developing the brand since its inception. Four collections are now produced each year.

When Luella returned to show in London in 2007 she chose Katy to style her shows and The British Fashion Council awarded Luella Designer of The Year based on her acclaimed S/S 08 collection.

Katy’s advertising clients include Lancôme, Giorgio and Emporio Armani, YSL Fragrance, Bulgari, MAC, Kate Moss for Longchamp, Pepe Jeans and David Morris. Her

strong links with Dazed and Another Magazine continue where she has worked with photographers such as Mario Sorrenti, David Sims, Nick Knight, Stephen Klein, Steven Meisel, Craig McDean, Annie Leibovitz, Juergen Teller, Inez and Vinoodh, Richard Avedon and Mert and Marcus.

Special projects include the Pirelli Calendar 2004 with Nick Knight (see www.showstudio.

Gareth Pugh Fashion Film Pioneer SS11 collection watchvideo

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Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection

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Backstage Eye

I never cared for fashion much, amusing little seams and witty little pleats: it was the girls I liked. ~ David Bailey

Marilyn Monroe

Monroe would forcefully cut up the negatives she didn’t like with pinking shears

Lawrence Schiller Lawrence Schiller started his career as a photojournalist and went on to become a New York Times best-selling author and director of fifteen films. He worked with Marilyn Monroe several times, perhaps most famously on the set of her final film, “Something’s Got To Give”, in 1962. While the rest of the world is dazzled by Marilyn, Schiller is famous for stating “Marilyn Monroe was just another assignment to me”

and would complain about her turning up eight hours late for a shoot - “We had to work till 11pm - and I said, ‘Marilyn, Judy’s going to kill me.’ I go home, my wife opens the door and she has a big smile on her face: Marilyn had sent her flowers to apologise”.

In 2007, the images which survived (Monroe would forcefully cut up the negatives she didn’t like with pinking shears) went on show for the first time.

MarceloDoesMilan

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Marcelo Burlon

Marcelo Burlon Enterprise is an evolving one-man venture fuelled on Burlon’s unique personality.

An effervescent character, Marcelo switches between the worlds of fashion, music and art effortlessly, often blurring the boundaries in between disciplines.

Consultant, editor, stylist, PR, party instigator and much more, there are no rules to what he does apart from one: that it must be good. A trained eye, a knowing mind and a finely-tuned ear - he is a DJ too after all, you’ll know from his club Pink Is Punk - Burlon’s left-ofcentre sensibility is one that brings underground cool to pop culture.

It results in a heady, explosive cocktail. Having cut his teeth at Dolce & Gabbana and Alessandro Dell’Acqua as event promoter and celebrities PR, Burlon progressed to collaborate with a roster of clients including Karla Otto, KCD, Slam Jam, Nike, Adidas, Diesel, READ MORE

Attila & Co all the while keeping up his role as PR person for budding designer Riccardo Tisci, who is now creative director at Givenchy in Paris. With a role in public relations for contemporary art space Cardi Gallery, an outlet he still keeps to this day, Marcelo is also the Editor-in-Chief of Rodeo Magazine, a project which has allowed his ephemeral talent to be expressed through print, curating the essence of the current climate into a magazine. Independent since 2006, Marcelo counts Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela, Givenchy, Versace, Calvin Klein, Gucci, Prada, Jil Sander and Marc Jacobs amongst his latest clients.

Difficult to summarise yes, when you meet him you’ll understand.

There’s no-one quite like Marcelo, he leaves an indelible mark on every soul he touches.

Dean Mayo Davies

Human Endeavour ‘Degeneration’

‘Degeneration’ is the third show exhibited and curated by the photographic collective ‘Human Endeavour’, and the second show to be supported by the Arts Council of England. The collective is an evolving platform incorporating different photographers, with the commonality of interest of human intervention and activity in the 21st century. Simon Carruthers, Richard Chivers and Alex Currie instigated the formation of the collective, and have been constant members throughout, with previous participants including Murray Ballard, Oliver Perrott and Ben Westoby. Oliver Perrott has again joined ‘Human Endeavour’ for the latest photographic venture.

Unlike previous exhibitions, which have been curated around a central theme incorporating existing bodies of work into one exhibition, ‘Degeneration’ is a collaborative project, produced and curated from its inception as a whole body of work, incorporating the metropolitan conurbations of Glasgow, Edinburgh, Leeds, Liverpool, Salford, Sheffield, Birmingham, Cardiff, London and Portsmouth. To do this Simon Carruthers, Richard Chivers, Alex Currie and Oliver Perrott have been researching the relevant areas and the sociological

noun

the state or process of being or becoming degenerate; decline or deterioration: overgrazing has caused serious degeneration of grassland. ~ Medicine deterioration and loss of function. implications involved since the autumn of 2009.

With ‘Degeneration’ being a research led project, the objective is to take a critical look at the state of housing and regeneration in the 21st century, and the implications and complex nuances this may have on some of the poorest in society, reliant upon social housing. After several decades of neglect, consecutive governments have overseen the gradual demise and disappearance of social housing, due to ‘Right To Buy’ and a lack of new housing stock built, arguably fuelling the necessity to own rather than let that has instigated the artificial inflation of the housing market. This opens up many questions as to why this was allowed to happen, has fuelled the rise in homelessness and poverty and left the majority of people living in social housing trapped in so called ‘sink estates’.

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Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection

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BolongaroTrevor

Inspired?

Bolongaro Trevor is the brain child created by british designers Kait Bolongaro and Stuart Trevor – orignoial founders and former desigers behind the cult store group All Saints Ltd.

Oringinal unique and commercial, the new collection comprises of contemporary handmade pieces, inspired by vintage finds amassed over the past 20years, creating a modern and sharp sculptured aesthetic with a dark and moody, hard edge.

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Backstage Eye

The only rule is don’t be boring, dress cute wherever you go.

Life is too short to blend in. ~ Paris Hilton

Their designs are fun and exciting, a dazzling example of hand crafts creating glamorous results.

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FORWARD

Bebaroque

The fashion week exhibition was awash with unique designers, garments, jewellery and bags, but there was nothing quite like Scottish brand Bebaroque.

Describing their craft as ‘tattoo embroidered on the skin’ Bebaroque specialise in hand made, heavily embroidered, printed or embellished hosiery and apparel. “Embellishing the skin” with an array of hand printing, sequins, beads, and finishes, their tights and bodies are totally unique, and have gained them impressive press coverage in leading magazines such as Vogue, i-D, Company and Nylon, not to mention being a favourite of Susie Bubble, Christina Aguilera and Kelis to name but a few.

True home-grown British talent, the two designers Mhairi McNicol and Chloe Patience always sample everything themselves, and produce all the hosiery in bonnie Scotland.

They told us they’d also love to produce all the apparel in Scotland in the future too. Their designs are fun and exciting, a dazzling example of hand crafts creating glamorous results.

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Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection

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MichaelClayton-Dolls

“Ican’texplainhow mymindworks, orwhytheseideas cometoit”.

It started out with a camera and a major interest in travel photography, but a sublime

encounter in a Tokyo toy shop led me into the surreal world of Japanese miniatures, and ultimately to the stories that could be told with them.

Since I started working with dolls, I have grown more and more to appreciate what can be done with them, how the smallest gesture or placement seems to convey volumes. Also, I happen to think it’s a damn funny medium.

I’m entirely self-taught in photography.

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Lissy Elle

Lissy Elle

I am someone who likes to pretend that I don’t care what other people think of me. I like to pretend that I make my art for ME, and no one else. But there comes a point in every artist’s life that they crave recognition. Admit it. Be not ashamed. This is only human.

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Cecilia Hammarborg

GunAndSparrow Whilst studying 18th century surrealism, Cecilia Hammarborg had covered her walls with images and inspiration. The fact that the Gun picture and Sparrow picture had been side by side was pure coincidence, but seemed to work so well together that Cecilia was inspired to create this stunning print, which she puts onto silk and tailoring.

the story...

Whilst studying I was looking at a lot of crazy art and I had an obsession with late Victorian engravings of anatomy, medical illustrations, birds, horses and weapons. I was also looking at the broader picture of society at that time, the industrial revolution was at its peak and men and animals were being replaced by machines. This was the inspiration of the gun-sparrow, delicate and powerful at the same time.

NorthCircular

Knitted by grannies – supported by supermodels.

As ethical brands go, they don’t get much cooler than the North Circular. An inspired idea – creating hand knitted garments out of wool from rescued sheep, spun and dyed locally, and knitted by a dedicate team of grannies – is utterly unique, and undoubtedly inspiring. The fact that it was dreamt up “over champagne and cups of tea” by a couple of supermodels, and is actually knitted by their grandmothers (amongst others) makes it all the more intriguing and brilliant. Lily Coles and Katherine Poulton ethical mission is inspiring, and stylish.

You can even pop by the website to meet the knitters and the sheep – thats about as ethical, green and harmonious as a fashion brand can be.

Backstage Eye

I don’t design clothes.

I design dreams. ~ Ralph Lauren

TeatumJones

The idea of inspiration being everywhere is something Daydream Magazine actively promotes, and is an ethos shared by design duo Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones. As they say, they are, “Besotted with the power of a story and drawn to both romance and tragedy” and “find themselves compelled to seek out beauty and refinement in what is ordinarily considered sinister or dark.” And for AW 11/12, they take their inspiration from the experience of First World War heroines, Elsie knocker and Mairi Chisholm. Amongst the thoughtful prints, reminiscent of aerial photography and trench sodden garments, and the tenacious, carefully selected fabrics, it is their detailing that tells the real story.

Our favourite was the narrative evoked by the draped pocket on the Eva Moore shirt-dress, inspired by the weighed down pockets of men in the trenches, who had stuffed so many things in their pockets they were stretched beyond recognition. Recreated in here in

Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection

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MONCLER GRENOBLE FW 11-12 AT GRAND CENTRAL

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Betty Jackson Round Up Blood, Tomato and Brick Call it whatever shade you like, red dominated Betty Jackson’s collection this season. An array of fabrics, tones and textures: leather, wool, chiffon, knit and alpaca, red was the stand out element of the show, giving a powerful edge to reasonably wearable clothes. Interspersed with cool neutrals, black lace and a seemingly random purple parker, the red was embellished with appliqué flowers and a light floral print, or left to speak for itself in the bolder shapes; thick alpaca garments, heavy wool coats and jumpers.

Betty Jackson is well known for her flattering yet unique

designs, which were present in this collection in the shape of long, billowing chiffon dresses and separates, again in red with the floral print. But lets not forget, this is Autumn/ Winter, and chiffon is hardly a cosy fabric, no matter how many heavy wool pieces you throw on top. Once again, the seasons merge, the designers vision more important that the restraints of a bit of weather.

The detail of long white socks under the red chiffon was nice; maybe they’ll be keeping us warm while we strut down a winter street in our blood red chiffon and alpaca number in a few months time.

Murakami atVersailles

Versailles’ latest contemporary art installation opened yesterday, and it’s a show that’s been knee-deep in controversy since its inception. The Takashi Murakami show features 22 works including 11 site-specific pieces which aim to create a story within a story.

Curator Laurent Le Bon states, “The unique experience seeks above all to spark a reflection of the contemporary nature of our monuments and indispensable need to create out own era.” Murakami ties the past to the future by placing bizarre brightlycoloured creatures in ornately decorated stately rooms. The show will be running until 12 December 2010.

miles aldridge

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Charlotte Olympia Fall 2011 Shoe Collection

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Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

Rather than walk a catwalk, the models at john galliano’s show at paris fashion week weaved between ornate salons, striking poses as appropriate.

Backstage Eye

“I never diet. I smoke. I drink now and then. I never work out. I work very hard, and I am worth every cent.� ~naomi campbell

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Small, but perfectly formed Beyond the Valley recognized in the telegraph Small Shop Awards.

Beyond the valley is a small boutique based in the Newburgh quarter, cental London. The shop is an eclectic array of all things exciting in fashion, apparel, accessories, as well as a few magazines and home wares thrown into the mix. Starting off 5 years ago as a platform to base their own collections and other graduates, Kate Bonhôte and Kristjana S William’s shop now presents pieces from new

graduates who might not be ready to go into production yet, to MA graduates and new generation designers showing at London Fashion Week.

Beyond the Valley have been supporters and stockists of Daydream Magazine for years, and although they didn’t come first, we’re first in line to agree that they deserve recognition for being a truly unique small fashion boutique.

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BTV WEBSITE

david bowers Pig Walker II 25x19 Oil on Panel 2010

Ruth Marks - The Ones to Watch

Jaco VD Hoden FM Models VIEW MORE

Kathleen O M&P models

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Fifi Newbery models 1 VIEW MORE

Harry Skinner models 1

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