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Amity Basilica

St. Andrew’s Basilica, Arthunkal

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Rwandan Timeless Junagarh Fort

Ocean Giants

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INside Regulars Into the Wild 10 Travel News 12

20

Quick Festivals 14 Unique Festival 15 My Shot 16 Travel Tips 18 Big Picture 46 Strange Travellers 82

cover story

Rwanda’s Great Apes Tracking the Mountain Gorillas

GLOBAL

32

40 72

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travel & flavors February 2016

87

32 Gentle giants of the ocean 40 To Bangkok by road 52 Dickensian port town 72 Dancing with Portenos

India 48 Eloquent & magical 52 Amity Basilica 64 Worshipping the Tirthankaras 68 Royal edifice 76 Archetypal Architecture

Flavors

84 Lip-smacking curries 87 Crispy crunchy Bhelpuri

contributors Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the world’s top 10 wildlife photographers.

editorSpeak Premjith Narayanan is an engineer by profession, a worldwide traveller, an astronomer and a photographer.

Thommen Jose is a communication consultant for the development sector, filmmaker and a travel writer based out of New Delhi. Wanderink.com is his blog.

Shweta Ganesh Kumar is a writer and travel columnist. She is the bestselling author of Coming Up On The Show and Between The Headlines, two novels on the Indian broadcast news industry. She currently lives in the Philippines.

Aswathy Kumar is a traveller and a journalist. She has worked with The Times of India and CNN-IBN.

Jenny Thingshung is a food writer and a journalist based in Delhi. She specialises mainly on the diverse cuisines of the North East.

Aravind C is a travel photographer. He is doing stock photography and has visited destinations across the country.

8

travel & flavors February 2016

W

ildlife tourism is meant for the strong hearts as it poses many challenges.

Inaccessible terrains and extreme weather conditions always put obstacles in the endeavour. What the backpack contains are the only things left for you during the entire time in the wild. And more importantly, a wildlife enthusiast essentially requires immense patience and the ability to withstand odds.

In the case of endangered animal species like gorillas, there are stringent rules restricting human presence in their exclusive habitat. The cover story of this issue ‘Rwanda’s Great Apes’ provides a close encounter with the gorillas at the Virunga Mountains in North West Rwanda.

‘Royal edifice’ is a journey into the history of Junagarh Fort in Rajasthan. Well-preserved, this majestic fort is known for its enormous size with several halls and palaces. Its architectural design with lots of paintings, frescos, marble and glass works stands apart.

Whale-lovers can rejoice and take a closer look at the gigantic animals of the sea at Whale Museum in Iceland. Various types of whales in their original size have been displayed in the museum as if they are swimming in the ocean.

The story ‘Ocean giants’ introduces the unique museum with all information regarding whales.

Karnataka is a major heritage destination as it houses among others a number of Jain temples and statues built in a unique architectural style.

‘Worshipping the Tirthankaras’ is nothing but an interesting journey through the marvels of the state.

Additionally, there are stories on adventures, pilgrimage sites, house of art & music and festivals in this issue.

Wishing you good days ahead.

Into the wild

Spotted deer.

Bandipur’s little cuties

A

large variety of animals, including tigers, leopards, elephants, sambars, spotted deer and Asiatic wild dogs, can be spotted in Bandipur National Park in Karnataka.

One of the most beautiful and better-managed national parks in India, this tiger reserve is located amidst the picturesque surroundings of the Western

Ghats. The park is flanked by the Kabani river in the north and the Moyar river in the south while the Nugu river runs through the park that spreads over an area of approximately 874.2 sq km. It is famous for its rich biodiversity.

Established in 1974 as a tiger reserve under Project Tiger, this forest was a private hunting area for the Maharaja of Mysore.

How to reach Ratheesh Panampatta is working as Assistant Professor at Payyannur Campus of Kannur University. A nature photographer and travel enthusiast, Ratheesh travels extensively with his cam to capture the essence and beauty of nature.

10 travel & flavors February 2016

By Road: Located on the Mysore-Ooty Highway, 250 km from Bengaluru, 70 km from Ooty and 80 km from Mysore.

Indian giant squirrel.

Travel News

Vibrant Gujarat International Travel Mart 2016

Ahmedabad, Gujarat: Vibrant Gujarat International Travel Mart 2016 (VGITM), a Global Travel Exposition, will be held from February 19 to 21 at Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar. The mart is organised by Government of Gujarat and Tourism Corporation of Gujarat Limited in association with

Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) to promote tourism in the state.

The power packed inaugural session will be addressed by the Chief Minister and Minister of Tourism, Government of Gujarat. The event will have the participation of 100 foreign and 125 domestic tour operators and more than 1000 key tourism products will be displayed under one roof. Added to it there will be separate Homestay Pavilions with the participation of registered homestay establishments.

The exposition is designed to facilitate business interactions among travel professionals from Gujarat and across the world, thereby unleashing significant business opportunities between the Gujarat-based travel

fraternity and international travel trade.

The event will give special focus to the buyer-seller meet, B2C meetings and the travel exposition.

With the participation of travel professionals from states other than Gujarat, VGITM, as the Global Travel Exposition, will strive to reinforce the thrust provided by the highly successful ‘Incredible India’ campaign of the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India.

VGITM will specifically promote the vast bouquet of tourist destinations in Gujarat and complement the highly successful promotional campaign featuring Amitabh Bachchan, legendary Bollywood actor and the brand ambassador of Gujarat Tourism.

Kerala Tourism wins award for best international stand Madrid, Spain: Kerala Tourism’s pavilion themed on the backwaters of Kerala wins the best international stand in the destination category at FITUR- the second largest tourism exhibition in the world. Colombia and Portugal are the other international destinations that won the award this year.

The award was given on the basis of the stand’s design, materials used and its overall attraction to visitors. The Kerala Tourism stand besides projecting the

beauty of the backwaters also used eco-friendly traditional equipment like Chinese fishing nets, country boats and lanterns to highlight the rural charm of Kerala. It was also one of the most photographed pavilions at the fair.

“We are overwhelmed by the response received at the fair. The simple, yet classy stand was a major crowd-puller and gave the Spanish trade an endearing taste of God’s Own Country,” said M Sivasankar, Director, Kerala Tourism.

Madhya Pradesh to introduce water tourism Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh: Named ‘Jal Mahostav’, Madhya Pradesh Tourism plans to introduce water tourism for the first time in the country. The 10-day

12 travel & flavors February 2016

extravaganza will be inaugurated on February 12 in Hanuwantiya at Indra Sagar Dam, one of Asia’s largest manmade water reservoirs.

State Tourism Development Corporation has developed the island as an attractive tourist destination. It has got 10 cottages for tourists. One cruise and two motorboats have also been arranged.

The tourism corporation has constructed a boat club and restaurant at Hanuwantiya with an investment of Rs 8 crore. Plantation has been done to ensure greenery at the island besides a water sports complex. A tourism tent city with

over 120 tents will also be set up for this.

Water sports, kite flying, volleyball and other competitions will be held apart from Food and Craft Bazaar. There will be also events like tug-of-war, treasure hunt, night camping, para-sailing and a visit on bullock cart to nearby villages for the tourists to explore.

According to the officials, the main objective of this event will be to showcase the cultural heritage of Madhya Pradesh and spark festivities that can become a tradition across generations in the future.

Hanuwantiya, which is under Khandwa district of the state, is about 130 km from Indore and 280 km from state capital Bhopal.

Goa Carnival from February 6 to 9 Panjim, Goa: With an expected turnover of around four lakh tourists for Goa Carnival, arrangements are in full-swing for Goa Tourism. The main float parade, the key attraction of the carnival, will be held in the capital city, Panjim, on February 6 and will travel to other cities of Margao

(February 7), and Vasco (February 8) before concluding at Mapusa on February 9.

This year, the carnival will be more colourful as Goa Tourism has joined hands with European Commission’s Cultural Exchange Programme to exchange artists among the three Carnivals of Asia (Goa), Europe (Liverpool) and Africa (South Africa) to learn and adopt unique aspects of these carnivals among themselves.

The exchange programme will go on for three years, informed Nikhil Desai, Managing Director, Goa Tourism. As a part of department’s strategy to focus on Festival Tourism, he also invited tourists to Shigmo Festival which is due next month.

Goa Tourism is also organising the annual Grape Escapade, the largest wine festival in the country, from February 4 and 7. Going into its 11th edition, Grape Escapade will be held at DB Bandodkar Grounds, Panjim.

Goa Tourism is expecting about two lakh people to visit Wine Festival.

There will be wineries from Australia and South Africa besides Indian wineries participating in the four-day festival. The state of Goa even though does not produce wines, organizes Grape Escapade and wants to make it one of the most vibrant wine festivals in the country. There will be wine tasting sessions, grape stomping, fashion shows, live entertainment etc. alongside the festival

KTM 2016 to focus on Responsible Tourism Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala: The 2016 edition of Kerala Travel Mart (KTM) will be held from September 27 to 30 at Samudrika Convention Centre, Willingdon Island, Kochi. The inaugural ceremony will take place on September 27 at Le Meridien Convention Centre, Cochin.

This time, KTM will focus on Responsible Tourism, said Tourism Minister AP Anil Kumar at the function held to announce the event.

KTM 2016 is expected to receive nearly 1,100 buyers from around the country and abroad. The mart will project the state as an ideal

destination for weddings and honeymoons.

Kerala Tourism Secretary G Kamala Vardhana Rao, Tourism Director PI Sheik Pareeth, Additional DirectorGeneral TV Anupama and KTM President Abraham George were also present at the function.

February Events Calendar 2016 DATE

EVENT

Feb 5 Feb 5 Feb 6 Feb 8

Feb 8 Feb 8 Feb 9 Feb 10 Feb 19 Feb 19 Feb 19

Feb 20 Feb 20

Feb 25 Feb 26 Feb 28

Rio Carnival Sapporo Snow Fest Battle of the Oranges Tet Nguyen Dan Chinese New Year

Losar Mardi Gras Holy Ship Oregon Shakespeare Fest

Splore Pingxi Sky Lantern Fest

Jaisalmer Desert Fest

HadakaMatsuri Envision Fest Festima National Grape Harvest Fest

LOCATION Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Sapporo, Japan Ivrea, Italy Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Hong Kong, China Kathmandu, Nepal New Orleans, US Miami, US Oregon, US New Zealand Taiwan City, Taiwan Jaisalmer, India Nara, Japan Rancho La Merced, Costa Rica Dedougou, Burkina Faso Jaisalmer Desert Fest Mendoza, Argentina

February 2016 travel & flavors

13

TOURISM PROMOTION

Amusement parks become an integral part of resorts and hotels: Ajay Sarin

I

ndian Association of Amusement Parks & Industries (IAAPI) is a non-government, not-forprofit and industry-managed organisation established in January 1999. It is India’s premier business association having 317 members from the private sector comprising park operators, manufacturers, importers, traders, suppliers, distributors and others related to the amusement and leisure industry. In an interview with Travel and Flavors, Ajay Sarin, President of IAAPI, talks about this year’s Amusement Expo and the importance of the amusement and leisure industry in the tourism sector. Excerpts.

What are the new attractions of the 16th edition of IAAPI Amusement Expo?

The 16th edition of IAAPI Amusement Expo will have new rides and attractions developed by the leading rides and equipment manufacturers from India and 19 countries, including Australia, Bulgaria, Canada and USA. The event is considered India’s only show focusing on the amusement and theme park sector. Safety and allied service industry are going to be the highlights of this edition.

How different this year’s expo would be?

The event will provide B2B networking platform to decision-makers in the area, from India and overseas. Park operators, resorts owners, real estate and mall developers, and the professionals connected to the amusement and leisure industry can avail the platform. For the first time, there will be outdoor display which is encouraging exhibitors to display their bigger rides and attractions at the expo. A networking evening and IAAPI Award Nite will be organised at the Amusement Expo.

The hospitality industry is now looking to create multi-use infrastructure. How can amusement parks add value to reducing the gestation period of the investments?

Resorts and hotels in Singapore, Hong Kong and USA attract millions of

14 travel & flavors February 2016

Ajay Sarin

IAAPI Amusement Expo 2016 from 3rd to 5th March at Hall 5, Bombay Exhibition Centre, NESCO Compound, Goregaon East, Mumbai tourists because of amusement parks attached to them. In India, Ramoji Film City, Wonderla, Imagica, VGP Universal, and MGM Dizzee World have also developed amusement parks along with hotels. They have become off-season, weekend, wedding and corporate event destinations. With amusement parks, hotels and resorts can attract families.

How responsive is the government to granting the amusement sector the industry status?

The amusement sector comes under the Tourism Ministry, both at the Centre and State. IAAPI for years have been aggressively promoting the amusement sector to make it an integral part of tourism. We emphasize the importance of the sector as it encourages outdoor

activities for children and youth, which will help them to be healthy, friendly, responsible and happy individuals. State Governments are willing to provide land on long-term lease, tax concessions and subsides for the development of the amusement sector.

With the industry slowly gearing up post recession, how do you see IAAPI responding to this sector’s growth prospects in the country?

By 2020, approximately 500 new projects worth $1.8 billion are likely to come up in the Indian amusement sector. Currently, the annual revenue generated by the Indian amusement and theme park industry is around Rs 17 billion and is growing at more than 17.5%. The association is actively participating in tourism policy initiatives along with Tourism Department, Government of India, and State Tourism Board.

How is buyer response to this year’s expo and who are the targets?

Like in the previous years, buyer response is encouraging. We are also targeting real estate and mall developer, architects, town planner, hotel and resorts and Urban Development Board as they are future investors and implementers.

Oruro Carnival / Unique Festival

Dancing devils of Oruro Come and celebrate Oruro Carnival in Bolivia if you long for a change from the conventional festivals because it is a celebration of devil dance When: Feb 6 - 9 Where: Oruro, Bolivia

H

istory is funny with its twisted tales. Follow the tradition and customs to its origin and you might find many interesting plots. Oruro Carnival in Bolivia is something like that. This carnival is a celebration of history in which people dress up as historical figures like Spaniards, missionaries, African slaves etc. But what stands out in the crowd is the figure of the devil. That’s where history is influenced by local customs.

Oruro is a mining town and natives believe that the devil is the master of mines, hence their Lord. Though Spanish missionaries spent much time converting the locals to Christianity, they mixed their traditional beliefs with Catholicism. The date of the carnival changes every year according to the date of Easter because the carnival is supposed to end on Shrove Tuesday. People dress up as Spanish priests and Spaniards who conquered

the Aymara and Quechua populations of the Andes.

The Spaniard outfit comes with the 16th century Spanish helmets, swords and even horses (unknown for Americans until European explorers brought them over in ships). Some dress up as slaves who were brought from Africa to work in the fields. But what steals the show are the most colourful and elaborate costumes of the diablos (devils) and diablada (dance of devil). Local dances are performed and offerings such as beer, food, coca leaves and cigarettes made to please the Lord of mines so that the Lord doesn’t get angry with them for taking away the wealth and keep it safe.

Diablada dancers start preparing and practising for the event well in advance. If you are tired of getting dressed up as angels, gods or goddesses and thinking of a change, then a visit to Orura will be a good idea.

February 2016 travel & flavors

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MY SHOT

Solemn moment: A Christian devotee prays with hands folded in front of a cross on the hills of Mattakara in Kottyam, Kerala.

Sreerama Narayanan

16 travel & flavors February 2016

Divine character: Kannur Kolacherry Sree Chathampalli Vishakandan Temple’s Vishakandan Theyyam on its way to Karumarath Illam. The Theyyam season officially began in Kannur, Kerala, in November.

Praveen Tharachandy

Cultural icon: A temple in Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, during sunset. The imposing rock structure standing against the backdrop of the golden horizon is a spectacular sight to behold.

Reji Samuel

In memoriam: A view of Vivekananda Rock from the Thiruvalluvar statue in Kanyakumari. Situated on a rock island at Kanyakumari, Vivekananda Rock Memorial is a major tourist attraction and houses the statue of Swami Vivekananda. It is one of the finest pieces of architectural endeavour in South India.

Ajmal Abdulla

February 2016 travel & flavors

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Travel Tips / Hong Kong

Asia’s world city Know about the city you are going to visit abroad. The basic knowledge of the place and people will of course help avoid any embarrassment during your stay there, so your trip could be more enjoyable and hassle-free. Besides convenience, knowledge about the people, their manners and customs, general rules and regulations in society, local flavors and language, no-visit zones, weather etc. makes you less stranger in a foreign city. Quick travel tips are what you need to have a glance at before embarking on a journey T&F Reporter

18 travel & flavors February 2016

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ong Kong is Asia’s world city and Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China. This former British colony situated in southeastern China is densely populated. Known as an international financial centre, Hong Kong is a paradise for shoppers and food lovers.

It is a sleepless city and its night markets, restaurants and malls are popular all over the world.

Transportation

Travelling within Hong Kong and to and from Hong Kong could be a little confusing when you go there for the first time. The public transport system in

Hong Kong is famous for its safety, affordability and reliability. It keeps the city moving at lightning speed. If you don’t like high speed services, switch over to an unhurried tram or ferry. Still there are plenty of ways to get around Hong Kong.

Mass Transport Railway’s (MTR) high-speed Airport Express is the fastest service between the city and the airport. Airport Express passengers can take free shuttle buses from Kowloon and Hong Kong stations to major hotels. MTR consisting of 10 rail lines covers all major districts in the territory, including stops at the boundary with Mainland China.

Taxis are plenty throughout Hong Kong. They can usually be hailed on the street (except in restricted areas) or summoned by phone. All are metered, relatively cheap, air-conditioned and clean.

Chinese & English languages

Chinese and English are official languages in Hong Kong. Hong Kong pronunciation of English is a little different and it will take a couple of days to adjust to the accents. In general, shop assistants and restaurant staff in the main tourist areas are competent in English. Restaurants always provide menu in English.

It’s advisable to have your address or instructions written down in Chinese to show to taxi drivers who won’t know English.

Don’t be afraid to ask for directions in English from people on the street as you can expect polite answers from them. Youngsters here learn English and would like to speak to foreigners in English.

Hong Kong dollar

Hong Kong dollar (HK$) is the currency of Hong Kong. It is the 13th most traded currency in the world. Hong Kong dollar is used in both Hong Kong and Macau.

Attractions

Victoria Peak Tower, Madame Tussauds Hong Kong and Aberdeen Fishing Village are among the major attractions in Hong Kong. The Peak Tower features a 360-degree view from the Sky Terrace at 1,400 ft above sea level.

Madame Tussauds Hong Kong featuring six themed areas provides guests with the opportunity to meet their idols. It has more than 100 local and international celebrity wax figures.

Aberdeen Fishing Village is a feast for photographers. Aberdeen Harbour has the distinction of being the first place where the British set foot upon arriving in

Hong Kong.

Shopping centres

Top shopping centres in Hong Kong include iSquare Mall, The One, K11 Art Concept Mall and Harbour City Shopping Mall. iSquare is a 31-storey shopping mall located at 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. A complete mix of shops, restaurants and cinema, it is a good place for a wander and shopping with lifts and escalators everywhere.

The One is a unique modern shopping centre located in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. Shopping here is diverse with luxury jewellery and watches, fashion, accessories etc.

K11 is the world’s first art mall with the innovative idea of bringing art, people and nature together. The art mall combines old culture and new ideas.

Restaurants

Hong Kong offers a multitude of venues and cuisines that keep foodies interested- from traditional dim sum to creative concepts in which East meets West.

Best time to visit

The best time is between October and December. This period boasts of comfortable temperatures and reasonable room rates.

19

COVER STORY / Mountain Gorillas

Great Apes A close encounter with the gorillas at the Virunga Mountains in North West Rwanda provides first-hand information on the endangered primates and their habitats Text & photos by Dr. MP Somaprasad

W

e were in Masai Mara on a wildlife photo trip when incessant rain forced us to abandon the shoot mid-way. My friend Jayant Sharma and I decided to travel to Rwanda to see the Mountain Gorillas, a lifelong dream.

We took off from Nairobi, Kenya, to Kigali, capital of Rwanda. Our guide and coordinator for the trip, John, received us at the airport. It was late evening. We finished an early dinner and set off for the volcanoes at the Virunga Mountains in North West Rwanda.

20 travel & flavors February 2016

February 2016 travel & flavors

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COVER STORY / Mountain Gorillas

It’s time to breastfeed her infant. This mother gorilla chooses a quiet place away from the other members of the group to perform the ritual.

22 travel & flavors February 2016

The best times for tracking gorillas are drier months from December to February and June to mid-September.

During the drive, John started telling us stories about the Mountain Gorillas and incidentally the topic turned to the Rwandan genocide of 1994. During the civil war, approximately 750,000 people were slaughtered. We were shocked to hear from John that he was the only surviving member of his family. The five-hour long drive was quite terrible due to heavy rain, poor visibility, bad roads and the horrible stories of the genocide. Honestly, I became seriously concerned about our safety.

We reached the resort and checked in. Everything in Rwanda, especially connected to gorillas, is very expensive. The room cost us $500 for single occupancy. We completed the paper work for the next day’s trek to see the gorillas. The Government

Permit for the gorilla trek cost us $750 per person. The night temperature was 9°C, and one of the window panes in my room was broken. Needless to say, it was a miserable night!

Next morning, John picked us up at 5am and we drove to the Rwanda Wildlife Department Office. We collected our permit and set out on the trek to meet the Mountain

The five-hour long drive was quite terrible due to heavy rain, poor visibility, bad roads and the horrible stories of the genocide

Gorillas. Our group consisted of eight people, including one American lady who unfortunately had to be returned to base on a stretcher.

The trek was quite tedious and took almost five hours to locate the gorilla group. The 5-km uphill trek was through thick flora of bamboo, scrubs and bushes. The path was muddy and slushy, and movement was difficult. The government-appointed guide was walking in front and at many places, the undergrowth had to be cleared to make a path to the gorilla group. We had to stop about 100 metres away from the gorillas’ location to leave all our personal items like backpacks, walking sticks etc. We were allowed to carry only one camera with strict instructions to shoot only in silent mode, without

Disturbed and unhappy, the gorilla seems to be resisting human presence in its territory.

February 2016 travel & flavors

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COVER STORY / Mountain Gorillas

In the protection of mother. Infant gorillas are vulnerable to attacks by predators in the forest, so adults tread cautiously and stay awake to safeguard the younger ones.

flash. No eatables or any other articles that were likely to influence the gorillas were allowed.

We slowly started moving closer to the gorilla group. We were strictly instructed not to get closer than 10 metres to the gorillas. Finally, we are with the gorillas.

This group consisted of 11 gorillas -two Silverbacks, four females, three youngsters, and two infants. They were all relaxed and resting. We had only one hour in hand with the gorillas. So,

without wasting any time, I took a convenient position and began photographing our magnificent ancestors.

After a while, I found myself keen on watching them rather than taking pictures. I was highly impressed by the way the mother took care of her 10-day-old baby.

The permitted onehour passed. I managed to convince the guide to give us an additional half-hour. US dollars work everywhere except with the gorillas. I was permitted to get a little closer than the

permitted 10 metres. I took some close-up pictures of the Silverbacks and other family members. The guide turned the other way.

However, following my lead, other photographers from our group began closing in towards the gorillas. The guide became upset and we all had to move back behind the line of control. At one point, when I was taking close-up pictures, the Silverback got a little agitated and almost jumped towards me. Luckily, I was quick enough to step back in time.

Next morning, John picked us up at 5am and we drove to the Rwanda Wildlife Department Office. We collected our permit and set out on the trek to meet the Mountain Gorillas

A mature silverback male gorilla may weigh as much as 180 kg, or even 3 times the overall weight of an average man.

24 travel & flavors February 2016

The author comes close to a cheetah during one of his jungle safaris.

At the end of the day, all members of the group come together and sleep in one place. While mother gorillas are asleep cuddling their babies, an adult male member keeps watch.

February 2016 travel & flavors

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COVER STORY / Mountain Gorillas

Finally, we are with the gorillas. This group consisted of 11 gorillas -two Silverbacks, four females, three youngsters, and two infants When our time was over, my friend and I said ‘goodbye’ to everybody and returned to the base camp along with our personal guide, John. All the pain and struggle of the journey just melted away as soon as we met the gorillas of the Virunga Mountains.

At present, there are 10 gorilla groups in the Virunga Mountains. Each group consists of approximately 10 to

Timid and shy, the gorillas always appear suspicious of the movements of other animals and the man and that they take refuge in their enclosure.

26 travel & flavors February 2016

Rwanda is one of only three countries where Mountain Gorillas live, the other two being Uganda and Congo.

Tender bamboo leaves are the favourite food of the gorillas in the Virunga Mountains.

25 members. Some of the groups are very difficult to locate as they have settled inside the deep jungle. These groups are highly protected from poachers and other enemies by armed guards of the Rwandan government on a 24hour basis in all weather conditions. Their only natural enemy is the leopard. The Silverback is the head of the group and protects the group from all the danger.

There are recorded incidents of fights

between Silverbacks and leopards with fatalities recorded on both sides.

Daily routine & behaviour

The oldest Silverback is the head of the group/ family and is the final authority in all matters and conflicts. Even at the cost of his life, he will protect the group.

The gorillas are generally shy and are active during the day.

They live in small groups of 7 to 25 members, including one or two

A perfect hiding place for this gorilla which remains aloof but listens to the strange sounds in the vicinity. It is natural that they take much time to comprehend new situations.

February 2016 travel & flavors

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COVER STORY / Mountain Gorillas

The gorillas can be often seen in the lonely spots within their habitat. They appear to enjoy quiet moments, away from the rest of the group.

Silverbacks, a few females and their young ones. When the young mature, they go off and join or form another group.

Every evening, the gorillas construct a “nest” for the night in which they crawl up and sleep on the ground. These bowlshaped nests are made of leaves and other plant materials. Nests are shared by only a mother and its nursing baby.

The gorillas communicate with each other using many complicated sounds and gestures. They use at least 25 recognized vocalizations, including grunts, groans, growls, whines, chuckles and hoots. Some gorilla gestures include chest-thumping, high pitched barks, lunging, throwing objects, staring, lip-tucking, sticking out the tongue, running sideway, slapping and standing on two legs. These gestures are used to teach the young the many skills that they need to survive, and to communicate with other gorillas about food, social relationships, distress and mating.

Social behavior and law and order of the gorillas are very distinct and admirable.

Early in the morning, the group spreads into the forest but maintains a distance of 500-700 metres from the nesting site.

They forage till about 9 pm. An adult gorilla may eat up to 25- 30 kg. A male Silverback might consume more. The gorilla generally does not drink water as their food contains more than 40% water. In summer, they occasionally drink water.

After they feed, they return to their nests. All of them come together and communicate and report to the Silverback.

After evaluating the day’s report, the Chief Silverback might even pronounce some punishment to the mischievous members of the clan. Thereafter, they rest for some time and again forage for dinner before retiring for the night. Every morning, they shift to a new location within 2 or 3 km and continue their daily routine. This pattern of shifting their location every day is a wonderful way to conserve flora, which is their main source of food. By doing this, they allow the plants to grow again.

Habitat

The gorillas are primarily terrestrial (although they lived in trees in their evolutionary past). They live in tropical rain forests (in the forest edges and clearings), wet low land forests, swamps and abandoned fields.

The Mountain Gorillas are mainly found at high altitudes (5,000– 12,000 ft) in Zaria, Rwanda and Uganda. Rwanda is the best and easiest place to sight them.

The Rwandan government earns a whopping $ 8 million a year through Gorilla Trekking Tourism, out of which they spend more than 50% on their conservation. Due to proper management and conservation, a 25% increase in gorilla population has been achieved.

Rwanda is also described as ‘the Switzerland of Africa’ and ‘land of a thousand hills’ because of its mountainous terrain.

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At one point, when I was taking closeup pictures, the Silverback got a little agitated and almost jumped towards me

Gorillas are ground-dwelling, predominantly herbivorous apes that inhabit the forests of Central Africa.

Scientific name: Gorilla Life span: 35-40 years Weight: 140-180 kg (adult male) Height: 1.7-1.8 metres (adult male) Classification: Great Apes Gestation period: 259 days (The author can be contacted at drmpsprasad@gmail.com)

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Top of the world /Largest highways

Cross-border

connections modern Highways have totally changed the experience of travelling by road and huge networks of roads connecting cities and remote areas become synonymous with the infrastructural development Jesna George

R

oads are not just roads. They are the lifeline for people connecting different regions and cultures of the world.

Travel by roads has always captured people’s imagination as it unveils the real world before us. Exotic lands, people, flavors and lots of unexpected incidents along the journey make you wise and more knowledgeable. But how people travel by roads today is greatly different from the past. Emergence of smooth roads and huge highways with so many bridges and flyovers running across countries has actually changed the concept of speed of travelling on roads, thanks to the advancements in civil engineering. Look at some of the gigantic highways in the world, which will take your breath away.

The Pan-America Highway, USA

A section of the Pan-American Highway in Gran Buenos Aires.

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The Pan-American Highway in the US is a network of roads measuring about 30,000 km in total length. The road network links almost every part of the mainland nations of America.

Photo by: Angelica Jacobi

The Trans- Canada Highway in Manitoba near Carberry.

According to Guinness World Records, the Pan-American Highway is the world’s longest motorable road.

This highway consists of a network of many highways and stretches from Prudhoe Bay in northern Alaska to Ushuaia in Argentina. The Darien Gap is an 87-km rainforest break.

Because of the Darien Gap, it is not possible to cross from South America to Central America by road. Apart from this, the Pan-American Highway connects the Americas very well.

The Trans-Canada Highway, Canada

The Trans-Canada Highway is a transcontinental federalprovincial highway system. This highway is one of the world’s longest national highways with the main route spanning 8,030 km. It was officially opened in 1962, but The Pan American Highway in the Atacama Desert, Chile. completed only in 1971. The highway system is recognizable with its distinctive white-on-green maple leaf route markers. The TransCanada Highway forms part of Canada’s overall National Highway System, providing connections with Northwest Territories, Yukon and the international border. In 2012, a series of free public electric vehicle charging stations were installed along the main route of the highway, making it the longest electric vehicle ready highway in the world.

Highway 1, Australia The Trans- Canada Highway outside New Glasgow West.

Australia’s Highway 1 is a network

of roads that circumnavigate the Australian continent, connecting all main state capitals. With a total length of 14,500 km, Highway 1 is considered the longest national highway in the world. Every day, more than a million people travel through the road. Highway 1 is the only route to reach all Australian states covering practically every major inhabited area of Australia. Large capital cities, busy holiday resorts, dramatic coastlines, forests ranging from tropical to temperate gum forests, giant karri stands, scrubland, deserts, and huge tropical swamps are some of the landscapes that can be found along the route.

The Tarim Desert Highway, China

The Tarim Desert Highway also known as the Cross-Desert Highway (CDH) or Taklamakan Desert Highway crosses Taklamakan Desert from North China to South. There are three highways as part of the network- two main highways and one branch highway. The Tarim Desert Highway is known as one of the most curious highways in the world. The desert region occupies a chunk of the Tarim Basin. The 552-km long highway is the longest road in the world built across a shifting-sand desert, with four-fifths of the road encountering the hazardous sands that frequently buried the highway.

Add to this, there are absolutely no settlements all along the highway.

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Photos by Premjith Narayanan

Whale Museum / Iceland

Ocean giants The world’s largest whale museum was opened in Iceland this year. The museum has life-size whales of all types on display as though they are swimming in the ocean. No wonder these ocean giants sans flesh scare you Nithin Premjith

“T

here she blows! A hump like a snow hill! It is Moby Dick!”

These are the words spoken by one of the crew members of Pequod, a whaling ship in Herman Melville’s 1851 novel ‘Moby Dick’.

Right from school days, I was fascinated by these gentle giants. I used to collect information on every type of whale and store its picture.

There are air-breathing whales just like human beings but able to spend long, leisurely periods moving gracefully in

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the amazing underwater world before popping up, at regular intervals for a bit of air and spraying water from their blow holes like a fountain. They are the ultimate snorkelers.

My first physical introduction to the world of whales was during a visit to Natural History Museum in London five years ago where I saw the skeletons of gigantic blue whales and many other types of whales suspended from the ceiling with wires. Even without the flesh, they looked so powerful. It was hard to imagine that

they were once a living, breathing and swimming giants and not something out from the fiction. From then on, I have always wanted to see them in real size someday.

Iceland

My dream became a reality this April when I visited along with my parents the land of ‘fire & ice’, Iceland.

It is a Nordic island country located between North Atlantic and Arctic Ocean having a population of 329,100.

I was thrilled when I heard that there

The entrance to Whales of Iceland.

is a whale museum, the largest of its kind, in the capital city of Reykjavik, which was inaugurated just in February.

Reykjavik is the largest city in Iceland housing 30% of its population and is the heart of Iceland’s cultural, economic and governmental activity. We stayed in the hotel Icelandair Natura which is located close to the domestic airfield. The museum is approximately 4 km from the hotel, in the harbour area. Taxis are in plenty. Also, complimentary shuttle buses are available every half-hour to the city. From the city centre, the museum is only a 20-minute walk.

Whale museum

When we neared the museum, I had the feeling that I’m entering a hyper mall. It was huge. The front of the museum looked impressive with the photograph of Humpback whale

The whale gallery.

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Whale Museum / Iceland

I was thrilled when I heard that there is a whale museum, the largest of its kind, in the capital city of Reykjavik, Iceland jumping out of the water. We bought the tickets (app.1500 INR/half ticket below 15 years old) at the entrance where there was the skeleton of a huge whale hanging from the ceiling.

We were ushered inside by the attendants and what I saw there was simply awesome! It was a huge hall with whales all around. I had the feeling that I was taken deep inside the blue sea. For a moment, it was scary as I felt that they would come alive anytime. So real were those gigantic life-sized mammals.

I rushed to see my hero of the book ‘Moby Dick’ which is a Sperm whale. I was so excited that I even put my body inside its mouth. We human beings don’t match these giants.

For the next one hour, I was floating inside, from one type of whale to the other.

There were interesting facts and interactive exhibits. All the attendants were very helpful and friendly, taking time to chat with customers. There is even a tea and coffee shop where snacks and other beverages are also available.

Indeed, there is no better way to learn

about whales than seeing them just what they are. I learnt some new things too about different types of whales.

Blue whale

A replica of Humpback whale.

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With a length of 30 metres and a weight of over 180,000 kg, Blue whale is the largest extant animal on Earth. Its tongue weighs as much as an elephant and its heart as much as a car. This giant of the ocean feeds on some of the smallest marine life– tiny shrimplike animals called krill.

Although Blue whale is a deepwater hunter, it must come to the surface of the sea to breathe.

When it surfaces, it exhales air out of a blowhole in a cloud of pressurized vapour that rises

vertically above the water for up to 9 metres. In spite of the bulky body, these graceful swimmers cruise the ocean at a speed of over 8km/h and can reach over 30km/h.

They are also the loudest animals on the planet, communicating with each other using a series of low frequency pulses, groans, and moans.

It has a lifespan of 35-40 years.

Humpback whale

These are the acrobats of the ocean breaching and slapping the water. It has a bulky head. The name ‘humpback’ describes the motion it makes as it arches its back out of the water in preparation for a dive.

Humpback whales grow to about 16 metres long, weighing 30,000–50,000 kg. They have 14-35 throat grooves that run from the chin to the navel.

These grooves allow their throat to expand during the huge intake of water during filter feeding. It has a lifespan of 45-50 years.

Sperm whale

The author posing for a picture in front of the Blue whale replica.

The fictional Moby Dick is a Sperm whale! Sperm whales are the largest toothed whales. It was named for the valuable spermaceti oil (wax) that this whale produces in the spermaceti organ (located in

Sperm whale.

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Whale Museum / Iceland

Bowhead whale.

its head). It has the largest head of any animal. It can be about six metres long, three metres high and two metres wide, and is about one-third of the body length. The head has a distinctive box-like shape.

Sperm whales are carnivores that mostly eat giant squids that live on the ocean bottom at great depths. An adult Sperm whale can eat about a ton

of food each day. It has a lifespan of 70 years.

Bowhead whale

Bowhead whale’s skin is usually black with a white spot on the lower snout. They have no dorsal fin and no throat grooves and have short, narrow flippers. Bowhead whales can dive for almost an hour but dives usually last 4-15 minutes. They are 15-18.5

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metres long and weighing 80,000–110,000 kg. It has a lifespan of 40 years.

Right whale

They have a bowshaped lower jaw and a head that is up to onequarter of the body length.

The head is hairier than most whales and up to 300 hairs are found on the tip of the lower jaw and 100 are on the upper jaw.

We were ushered inside by the attendants and what I saw there was simply awesome! It was a huge hall with whales all around

Right whales were named by whalers who considered them the ‘right’ whales to hunt as they are rich in blubber and easy to catch because they are

relatively slow swimmers. Right whales have no dorsal fin and no throat grooves. They have large flippers. It has a lifespan of over 60 years.

Gray whale

Indeed, there is no better way to learn about whales than seeing them just what they are. I learnt some new things too about different types of whales

Gray whale’s skin is usually gray with some blotchy white spots and has many parasites, including hundreds of pounds of barnacles and whale lice.

Gray whales are very agile swimmers. They can dive for up to 30 minutes and go 155 metres deep. They can swim in even relatively shallow water without running aground. Gray whales sleep with their blowholes just exposed on the surface of the water. During their extended migration, they swim day and night without sleeping. It has a lifespan of 50-60 years.

Right whale.

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Whale Museum / Iceland

Gray whale.

Beluga whale.

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Killer whales feast on marine mammals such as seals, sea lions, and even young whales. They are known to grab seals right off the ice.

Killer whale

It is a toothed whale, an efficient predator and even attacks huge young blue whales. Its only enemy is human beings.

It is sometimes called the ‘wolf of the sea’ because its behaviour is similar to that of wolves. They are very fast swimmers. They can swim up to 48 km in bursts in order to catch a prey. The skin is mostly black with distinctive white patches. They have a tall sickle-shaped dorsal fin and large paddlelike flippers. The dorsal fin of the male is taller (6 ft) and more upright than that of the female (4 ft tall). The species is in no danger as their numbers are abundant.

Lifespan: male 50-60 years; female 90 years.

Beluga whale

It is a small, toothed whale that is white as an adult. Beluga whale has a stout body and a small, blunt head with a small beak, tiny eyes, thick layers of blubber and a rounded melon. Beluga means ‘white one’ in Russian. They grow up to 4.6 metres long on average and weigh about 1,500 kg. They are relatively slow swimmers (3 to 9 km/h), but are capable of swimming at a speed of up to 22 km/h. Killer whales and polar bears prey on Belugas, especially the calves.

People have hunted Belugas for hundreds of years. It has a lifespan of 25-30 years.

Killer whale.

Striped dolphins

As the name indicates, these dolphins have an identifiable striped pattern on their body. They are blue with white stripes that are found on the lateral body part as well as the dorsal. The body is medium-sized and very suitable for easily moving through the water. They have 43-50 pairs of teeth that are small but sharp and cone-shaped. It has a lifespan of 55-60 years.

The striped dolphins.

Whales are affectionate and communicative

Whales are quite social in nature.

They come in a variety of sizes and have different behaviours.

They also create different languages as humans do.

Whales are other mammals that feed their young milk too.

They make sounds with their mouths to share information with others in their group. They are

quite affectionate in many ways.

Whales have been seen rubbing and caressing each other.

Serious threats to existence Food source of whales has become very scarce in some areas and they face threat to existence due to environmental pollution. In the wake of global warming, their migration patterns and even reproduction habits have changed.

The author Nithin Premjith.

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Road Trips / delhi to Bangkok

To Bangkok by

road

A road journey from delhi to Bangkok, the capital of Thailand, could be the most exciting because you come across very strange places and people during the trip Sanjay Mandan

H

ave you ever considered driving from India all the way to Bangkok?

A journey that may have sounded far-fetched and almost impossible is a reality now. For most Indians, crossing the Indian border by road has been an alien concept. Even if it means going to Nepal or Bhutan which are the easiest border crossings from India by road, most of us would prefer to take a flight. But lately, a

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lot of people have started exploring the unexplored, pushing themselves out of their comfort zones and go for a more ‘experiential holiday’ rather than a planned, boring package holiday that is nicely presented in an attractive brochure.

A road journey from India to Bangkok, the capital of Thailand, could be the most exciting and you can undertake it with your friends and family. It is a journey that you will keep telling your

The car passing through Bagan, Myanmar.

A view of Bangkok, Thailand, at night.

Start from Delhi/Gurgaon, cross the states of Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and West Bengal, and enter North East which is a region not visited by most people living in this part of the world

grandchildren. It is going to be an experience that you will cherish forever and even though the trip may come with unexpected moments, uncertain situations and uncomfortable roads, it will leave you with a feeling of high, a sense of achievement for the rest of your life.

So how can you start planning your epic road trip from Delhi to Bangkok?

I have undertaken this journey three times in the past. Here is a list of everything that you need to know and need to do in order to take your India-registered vehicle to Bangkok.

The route that you have taken to reach Bangkok by road from India will be more exciting as you approach Thailand. Start from Delhi/Gurgaon, cross the states of Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and West Bengal, and enter North East which is a region not visited by most people living in this part of the world. Drive through Assam where you can spend a few days in the company

of two-horned Rhinos at Kaziranga National Park.

Continue your journey towards Nagaland and reach the capital city of Kohima.

You may experience culture shock when you see the rock bands and the fashion sense of the Nagas. Explore the food market where you find dog meat sold like any other regular meat. Spend a few days in this fascinating state far away from the chaos of Delhi.

From Nagaland, you drive to Manipur and after a transit in Imphal, go towards the Tamu-Moreh border to cross into Myanmar. The road that connects India with Myanmar is known as the Indo-Myanmar Friendship Road and it has now been designated as Asian Highway 1 (AH1). One can also take this highway to Singapore.

Once you cross the border and enter Myanmar, a different world will greet you. There are new faces, new language, new currency and different customs and traditions. Drive towards the

Asian Highway 1 (AH1) is the longest route of the Asian Highway Network, running 20,557 km (12,774 mi) from Tokyo to Turkey-Bulgaria.

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Road Trips / delhi to Bangkok

Imphal city, Manipur.

small town of Kale and en route, you cross 46 iron bridges made during World War II. The bridges will rattle and make a loud noise but don’t be nervous, consider it as a warm greeting from Myanmar!

From Kale, get ready to negotiate the dusty roads and river crossings on the stunning mountain roads with panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. It is going to be a rough and challenging road before you enter the temple city of Bagan which is dotted with thousands of temples and pagodas. Bagan, a small town, is the jewel of Myanmar and is home to 4,446 pagodas. No matter where you look, all you see are ancient, magnificent temples around you.

It is like a sea of temples and pagodas, and you just have to be there to feel the vibration of this

holy land.

Past the temples and pagodas, you proceed through thick forests and hairpin bends to reach Inle Lake, a beautiful freshwater lake located in the Shan plateau, which is home to the Intha people who are lake-dwellers and unique with their leg-rowed traditional boats.

This lake is a world on its own with shops, restaurants, food and craft markets, tobacco units, silk weaving, pagodas and of course the fishermen who have their own style of fishing in which they use their feet to control the fishing nets.

After the surreal experience of Inle Lake, hit the road to Yangon through the new YangonMandalay 16-Lane Expressway, commonly called the ‘big-road’. It gives you a rare chance to see and enjoy Myanmar countryside. Take

Once you cross the border and enter Myanmar, a different world will greet you. There are new faces, new language, new currency and different customs and traditions

The iconic Grand Palace, Bangkok.

The Inle Lake area is renowned for its weaving industry. The Shan-bags used by many Burmese are manufactured here in large numbers.

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Inle Lake.

The entrance to the India-Myanmar Friendship Road.

a pit stop for lunch at Nay Pyi Taw, the brand new capital of Myanmar, where you will find everything from 5 star hotels, concert halls, convention centres to swanky buildings. The only thing missing here are people because only 50 per cent of the

city has been occupied.

After a long but eventful drive, reach Yangon or Rangoon as I still love to call it and hang out your travel boots. In Yangon, your first stop has to be Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Spend a few hours watching this magnificent pagoda

and then head to White Elephant Zoo. After spending a couple of days in Rangoon, proceed to Mt Kyaiktiyo where you can see Golden Rock.

It is gaudy, huge and stunningly beautiful. The rock covered in gold and topped with a stupa sits

The huge golden rock on the top of Mt Kyaiktiyo seems to defy gravity by delicately balancing on the edge of the 1100-m high mountain.

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Road Trips / delhi to Bangkok

on the top of a mountain and has the status of being the holiest Buddhist shrine.

Now you are closer to MyanmarThailand border. Drive through the hilly terrains and dusty roads and cross the border at Mae Sot, Myanmar, and enter Thailand. Go towards the town of Tak and stay there in the night. Next day, you will be in Bangkok.

Cruise along the silky tarmacs of Thailand for a relatively smooth and leisurely drive. This will be your last but most inspiring drive of the trip as you are about to make history. You enter Bangkok and bask in the glory of your remarkable feat.

The route

Delhi – Uttar Pradesh– Bihar – West Bengal – Assam – Nagaland– Manipur - Moreh - Kale - Bagan - Inle Lake - Yangon - Maesot - Tak – Bangkok

Shops on the banks of Inle Lake.

Drive through the hilly terrains and dusty roads and cross the border at Mae Sot, Myanmar, and enter Thailand. Go towards the town of Tak and stay there in the night. Next day, you will be in Bangkok Permits mandatory

Planning a road trip from India to Bangkok can be complicated, time-consuming and expensive.

There is a long list of permits that you need to obtain before you begin the historic journey. Local escort vehicles will receive you when you enter Myanmar and stay with you till you exit Myanmar.

Also, you need to give yourself at least four weeks just to obtain the permits from Myanmar.

Following is the list of things that you must keep in mind when planning this trip.

• Apply for special overland permits through a local Burmese agent one month in advance to drive in Myanmar.

(Mandatory) • Apply for a temporary driving licence to drive in Myanmar as they don’t accept International Driving Permit.

(Mandatory) • Security deposit is a must to On the way to Bangkok.

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The author (left) with Tushar Agarwal, expedition leader, posing for a picture at the end of the journey.

obtain Carnet from Automobile Association of India.

(Mandatory to enter Thailand in foreign registered vehicles) • International Driving Licence for driving in Thailand.

• Visa for Myanmar and Thailand.

(It’s advisable to carry visa in advance if you enter through the land border.)

• Carry USD while travelling in Myanmar as you may not find many ATMs. • Carry emergency food supplies.

• Basic spare parts and tools for any breakdowns or repairs such as air pump, puncture kit, firstaid kit, fuses, bulbs etc.

If you don’t want to travel alone, you can join a convoy of vehicles and travel as part of a group. Adventures Overland is one of the very few companies in India that organises cross-country driving expeditions.

For details, visit www.

AdventuresOverland.com

The reclining Buddha.

Distance & driving hours From

To

Distance

Driving Hours

Imphal Kale 250 km 5 Kale Bagan 400 8 Bagan Inle Lake 320 7 Inle Lake Yangon 640 12 Yangon Golden Rock 200 5 Golden Rock Tak 350 7 Tak Bangkok 430 6

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The Big Picture / Jurong bird park

Picture-perfect

flamingoes

A

flock of beautiful American flamingoes also known as Caribbean flamingoes at the Jurong Bird Park in Singapore.

A popular tourist spot in Singapore, this park has a large variety of birds kept in a natural way, without cages.

The Jurong Bird Park is undoubtedly a photographer’s paradise.

Aravind C Photographer

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Photo feature / Nandi Hills

Eloquent & magical Text & photos by Nabeel CKM

D

uring our hike at Nandi Hills, one of my fellow travelers said in the Cholas period, Nandi Hills was known as the hill of happiness.

I have already visited many hilltops. Though each of them has individual eminence, most were alike with green valleys, panoramic views, wet climate and thick cold air. But I was a little bit confused about the Cholas reference to Nandi Hills. Every hilltop brings happiness, and then what is much special about Nandi?

We were unthought-of and

A view of the valley from Nandi Hills.

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unaware about the eloquent surprise that kept unfolding. Unlike most travelers who reach Nandi Hills, we chose trekking path to reach the top. It was around 4 am when we started trekking from the village Sultanpalaya. There was complete darkness. Only source of light was my travelling torch. The hilltop is 4,851 ft (1,479 m) above sea level. At some place, the path was absolutely narrow and it was hard to move forward. If one misses a single step, he will fall into the unfathomed depth.

The January morning

temperature was very low and tormenting us. It took one and a half hours to reach the top. Security guards were still asleep. Entry gate officially opens at 6 am. So, we had to wait. Actually, the trekking path let trekkers cross the official barricades and enter directly through Tipu Sultan’s summer palace. But we decided to wait and bought tickets.

Sunrise is the ultimate joy at Nandi Hills. How could I explain it?

It is inexplicable. It was amazing!

Nandi Hills has a magical power to satisfy a traveler’s appetite.

An ocean of clouds above the township.

Watching sunrise from Nandi Hills is considered to be one of the joyful experiences.

The interior of Tipu Sultan’s summer palace.

The trekking path to the hilltop through the forest.

Pilgrim’s Progress / The Arthunkal church

Amity Basilica

If one wonders what Sabarimala pilgrims have got to do at a Christian church, learn more about St Andrew’s Basilica at Arthunkal, the picturesque coastal village in Alappuzha district 52 travel & flavors February 2016

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Pilgrim’s Progress / The Arthunkal church

Devotees thronging to touch and kiss St. Sebastian’s idol.

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Photo courtesy: Jackson Arattukulam, Malayala Manorama

I

n a world where religious intolerance is on the rise, stories of some ancient shrines of Kerala are a great solace for humanity. The stories help enhance people’s faith in tolerance and peaceful coexistence. The tale of St Andrew’s Basilica at Arthunkal and Sabarimala pilgrims is one of such which spreads religious harmony. If one wonders what Sabarimala pilgrims have got to do at a Christian church, learn more about St Andrew’s Basilica. In a rare act, thousands of Sabarimala pilgrims during the Sabarimala season visit this centuriesold Christian church at Arthunkal to offer prayers and to pay their respects to the unforgotten bond between Lord Ayyappa and his friend, Saint Sebastian also called as Veluthachan.

To the people of Arthunkal, the picturesque coastal village in Alappuzha district, irrespective of their faiths, St Andrew’s Basilica and Fr. Jacomo Fenicio, a Portuguese missionary who is fondly remembered as Veluthachan and was the vicar of the Basilica long ago, are inseparable from their life. Veluthachan has always been their guardian angel and dear mediator who carried their woes to God Almighty and found the solutions to their problems. He is believed to be a contemporary of Lord Ayyappa of Sabarimala. It is also said that Lord Ayyappa taught Veluthachan martial arts to save the church and its believers from sea pirates and local thugs. Their friendship was legendary. It is said that they considered themselves as brothers. Though centuries passed, thousands of Sabarimala pilgrims visit Arthunkal Church while returning from the holy hill shrine and leave the ‘rudraksha mala’ at the church and take bath in the church pond as a gesture of successful completion of their pilgrimage. The church authorities make all the arrangements for

To the people of Arthunkal, St Andrew’s Basilica and Fr. Jacomo Fenicio, a Portuguese missionary who was the vicar of the Basilica long ago and is fondly remembered as Veluthachan, are inseparable from their life February 2016 travel & flavors

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Pilgrim’s Progress / The Arthunkal church

The new church of St. Andrew’s Basilica, Arthunkal.

the guests very reverently.

History of the church

Arthunkal was the capital of Muthedath Kingdom, one of the principalities of Kerala, during the 16th century.

Historians opine differently as to how Arthunkal got that name.

Some historians say that it evolved from Arthikulangara, the name of the place at that time.

Arthikulangara in course of time turned Arthikulangal and later on, Arthunkal.

One opinion is that the capital of Muthedath was known as Muthedathunkal (at Muthedath) and it changed to Edathunkal and then Arthunkal.

In 1542, Saint Francis Xavier arrived in Goa and

established a college to train missionaries. During 156566, the rector of this college was Belchior Nunes who asked the Bishop of Cochin to seek permission from the then King of Cochin for gospel preaching and religious conversion.

Records show that it was in 1560 that the Portuguese missionaries first approached the King of Cochin for permission to build a church at Arthunkal in Alappuzha where there were a considerable number of Christians.

Even though Arthunkal was then under the rule of Cochin, the administration of the place was given to Muthadethu Kaimal, a feudal lord who didn’t give permission to gospel

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preaching or establishing a church. However, Fr. Manuel Teixeira who was the rector of the seminary at Cochin and Portuguese captain took the permission for doing so from the king directly in 1561.

The construction of the first church was completed in1581 with wood and thatched roof and Rev Fr. Gasper Pius SJ became the first vicar. The king gave permission to take the wood for the construction of the church from the nearby temple area. Fr. Pius had already endeared himself to the people of Arthunkal through his selfless service when smallpox epidemic hit the village.

It was in 1584 that Fr. Jacomo Fenicio took

Fr. Fenicio was deeply interested in Hindu religious texts and learnt Malayalam and Sanskrit. He used to engage in friendly debates with Hindu scholars. They also respected him as a scholar and treated him as one among them

The idol of St. Sebastian at St. Andrew’s Basilica, Arthunkal.

Ayyappa devotees infront of the church.

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charge as the vicar of the church. A popular figure, Fr. Fenicio was lovingly called Arthunkal Veluthachan (white father) by the locals. Born in 1558 in Italy, Fr. Fenicio came to India at the age of 25 for missionary work.

Upon resuming office as the vicar, he expressed his desire to build a church with stone since it would offer the church protection from robbers and the fierce wind from the sea. The king granted permission in 1590 and the construction was completed in 1601.

Fr. Fenicio also built a home for priests to stay along with it. After that, for some years he was assigned the charge of missionary activities in Kozhikode. In 1619, he reassumed as the vicar of the Arthunkal church. He even authored a book about the people titled ‘Book of the Sect of the Oriental Indians.’

Fr. Fenicio was deeply interested in Hindu texts and learnt Malayalam and Sanskrit. He used to engage in friendly debates with Hindu scholars. They also respected him as a scholar and treated him as one among them.

The legend is that he developed a deep bond with Ayyappa, the adopted son of the King of Pandalam when he chanced to reach the kingdom during one of his journeys. Fr. Fenicio was

interested in martial arts and sought the help of Ayyappa to establish a training centre at Arthunkal.

Ayyappa sent his men to Arthunkal and training was started there. The friendship between them flourished in such a way that it became a ritual for thousands of devotees of Lord Ayyappa to visit the Arthunkal church.

Fr. Fenicio died in 1632 and was buried inside the church itself. The Arthunkal church grew as a prominent pilgrimage centre towards the end of the 17th century. Irrespective of caste and religion, people from different parts of the state thronged the church.

The idol of Saint Sebastian in the church was brought from Italy. It is believed that during an epidemic breakout in Milan, Italy, the people there took a vow to take the idol around the world, once cured. So they started from Italy with the idol of Saint Sebastian and when the ship reached close to Arthunkal a storm made the journey impossible. The captain of the ship had a divine intervention to leave the idol at Arthunkal and he did so.

This idol now attracts thousands of devotees to the church.

The authorities decided to build a new church there without demolishing

Fr. Christopher M Arthasseril holding the malas dedicated by Ayyappa pilgrims to St. Sebastian.

the old one as it is one of the old churches in Kerala. The new church was constructed in 1967 in front of the old church. The church authorities spearheaded the process to elevate the church’s status to a Basilica in 2007.

On May 2010, the church was elevated to a Basilica by Pope Benedict XVI.

Arthunkal Feast

One of the biggest pilgrimage centres of Kerala for Christians, St Andrew’s Basilica on the occasion of St Sebastian’s feast attracts lots of devotees from all parts of Kerala and from the neighbouring states of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. The annual feast, popularly known as Arthunkal Perunnal (perunnal means feast) celebrated usually from January 10 to 27. A procession carrying the statue of St. Sebastian from the church to the beach and back is an important event during the feast.

The main feast is celebrated on January 20 when the statue of the saint is taken in procession. This is followed by a ceremonial procession to the beach. The octave is on January 27. It is for the main feast that most of the pilgrims come. The octave is considered the feast of the local people.

Pilgrim’s Progress / The Arthunkal church

Arthunkal church and Sabarimala pilgrims Unlike other temples, Sabarimala, the holy shrine of Lord Ayyappa, is open only for a certain period in a year. November-January is considered the pilgrim season for the devotees of Lord Ayyappa. The Arthunkal church is also prepared for the pilgrimage season by cleaning the church ponds for Sabarimala pilgrims. Arrangements are made to provide speciallyprepared food to the pilgrims. Fr. Christopher M Arthasseril, rector and present vicar of St Andrew’s Basilica, is proud of the parishioners who

wholeheartedly welcome the pilgrims and provide all helps to them. Serving the pilgrims is a matter of great pride for them. The heaps of ‘rudhraksha mala’ left behind by the devotees stand testimony to Fr. Christopher’s words. Every year, from January 10 to 27, the festival is held at the Basilica.

Where

The Arthunkal church is located on the State Highway 66 which starts in Alappuzha and ends at Thoppumpady in Ernakulam. Tourists can easily explore a number of pictur-

esque beaches located along the way like Chellanam, Andhakaranazhi, Thaickal, Mararikulam, Thumpoly and Alappuzha beaches. Furthermore, Fort Kochi and Mattancherry are other attractions located just 40 km from Arthunkal. All categories of accommodation are available here.

Many resorts have spas attached to them, providing refreshing therapies and Ayurvedic treatments. The nearest railway station to Arthunkal is Cherthala which is around 7 km from the church.

The procession of Arthunkal Feast attracts thousands of people from different parts of the state.

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Sabarimala pilgrims praying before the idol of St. Sebastian at St. Andrew’s Basilica, Arthunkal.

Famous birthplaces / Portsmouth

Dickensian port town A visit to Portsmouth, the birthplace of Charles Dickens, is reminiscent of the life and times of the great English writer RG Gireesh

“I

was born at Portsmouth, an English seaport town, principally remarkable for mud, Jews and sailors, on the 7th of February 1812,” wrote Charles Dickens in 1838. The charming house of Dickens is located in an unspoilt Georgian street complete with cobbled stones and Regency lamp posts. You will be stunned by the rich heritage of the city which offers a variety of activities for visitors. The Historic Dockyard which houses a number of old, defunct warships is a major attraction of Portsmouth.

Today, Portsmouth is well known as the

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birthplace of Charles Dickens and for its rich naval heritage. In the past, Portsmouth as the home of the Royal Navy had played a major role in many wars. The second largest city in Hampshire on the south coast of England, Portsmouth is an important tourist centre in the country and attracts thousands of tourists every year.

English writer and social critic Charles John Huffam Dickens known as Charles Dickens created best-known and most memorable fictional characters in his novels ‘Oliver Twist’, ‘David Copperfield’ ‘Great Expectations’, ‘Bleak House’ and ‘A Tale of Two

Today, Portsmouth is well known as the birthplace of Charles Dickens and for its rich naval heritage

There is a collection of memorabilia, including a couch, an inkwell and a paper knife he used in Kent, in the museum Cities.’ It seems Dickens was never tired of writing and he was able to deliver perhaps the longest running stories in the periodicals. These stories later turned into mammoth books of novels.

Charles Dickens was born at 1 Mile End Terrace (now 393 Commercial Road), Landport in Portsea Island (Portsmouth), as the second of eight children of John Dickens and Elizabeth Dickens. His works enjoyed unparalleled popularity during his lifetime and by the 20th century, critics and scholars had recognised him as a literary genius.

Charles Dickens’ Birthplace Museum was opened in 1904. The furniture, ceramics, glass, household objects and decorations in the museum are the re-creations of the ones Charles’s father had used. There are three furnished rooms in the housethe parlour, the dining room and the bedroom. There is a collection of memorabilia, including a couch, an inkwell and a paper knife he used in

Kent, in the museum which holds regular readings from Dickens’ books in summer months.

The birthplace museum is closed from October 2015 to the end of March 2016, with the exceptions such as Christmas Weekend Opening and Dickens’ Birthday Opening. The museum has a well-stocked shop selling souvenirs, gifts and books, including all major works of Charles Dickens and his biographies.

The museum is also one of the most famous wedding venues at Portsmouth. The venue caters to up to 16 guests in an old fashioned Georgian style property where you can enjoy getting married in the exhibition room and have full access to the garden for your wedding photos.

A life-size statue of Charles Dickens was unveiled near his house in Portsmouth in 2014, on his 202nd birth anniversary.

It was supported by the author’s great-great grandsons, Ian and Gerald Dickens.

Charles Dickens.

Parts of Portsmouth Museum are used for weddings and other small events.

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Pilgrimage Centres / Jain temples in Karnataka

Worshipping the

Photo by: Ajith Unnikrishnan

Tirthankaras

Jainism once rampant in India has left indelible marks in the state of Karnataka which is abundant with Jain temples and statues of the Tirthankaras meaning ‘omnipresent teachers’ RG Gireesh

J

ainism may not be so popular in the South Indian state of Karnataka today but it has a history of long association with the religion. There are many Jain temples and monuments belonging to different periods in the region and some of them are regarded as most sacred by its followers. These temples and the ruins of others clearly show the great influence Jainism had in this part of India for centuries.

Jainism in all aspects had enjoyed patronage of the historic kingdoms in the region such as the Western Ganga, Kadamba and Chalukya dynasties and the Hoysala Empire.

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Those who study the history of Jainism in India are more focused on the state following the recent findings of ruins by Archaeological Survey of India in new areas. Here are some of the well-known Jain temples in Karnataka.

Saavira Kambada Temple

Saavira Kambada Temple is a ‘basadi’ or Jain temple built in 1430 in Moodabidri and is noted for its 1,000 pillars. The temple is also known as Chandranatha Temple as it is dedicated to the Tirthankara Chandraprabha, whose eight-foot idol is worshipped in the shrine.

The town of Moodabidri has 18 Jain temples and Saavira Kambada Temple is the finest among them.

The town was named after the abundant bamboo growth in the area.

Moodabidri is a compound word made up of Mooda (East) and Bidri (Bamboo).

How to reach

By Air: Mangalore Airport is 24 km from Moodabidri.

By Rail: Mangalore station is 37 km from Moodabidri.

By Road: Bus services are available from Mangalore, Karkala, Udupi and other neighbouring towns.

Photo by: Sujay Radhakrishnan

Photo by: Sujay Radhakrishnan The statue of Gommateshwara Bahubali at Shravanabelagola.

Jal Mandir

Jal Mandir is a unique shrine situated in the middle of a lake in Varanga. On this islet, you feel the aura so typical of many Jain holy places. One has to take a very narrow boat made of tree trunk to reach there. Other than Jal Mandir, there are two main Jain temples at Varanga- Chandranath Temple and Neminath Basadi.

Chandranath Temple here is dedicated to Mulnayak Bhagwan Chandrapath. The idol is made of Chandrashila and one could see the light across the idol.

Neminath Basadi is 1000 years old. There are bronze idols of 24 Tirthankaras in Kayotsarg posture in the hall. The statue of Mulnayak Bhagwan Neminath (5 ft tall) is in the ‘garbhagriha’ (sanctum sanctorum).

How to reach

By Air: Mangalore Airport.

By Rail: Nearest rail station is Mangalore (69 km).

By Road: Karkala and Mudbidri are the nearby towns.

Shravanabelagola

Shravanabelagola is a city located near Channarayapatna in Hassan district, 158 km from Bangalore. The statue of Gommateshwara Bahubali

at Shravanabelagola is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Karnataka.

Shravanabelagola has two hillsChandragiri and Vindhyagiri.

More than 800 inscriptions have been found in Shravanabelagola, a large number of these are found at Chandragiri and the rest at Indragiri and the town. Maha Masthaka Abhisheka (the head anointing ceremony) is the main festival of Shravanabelagola.

The festival is performed only once in 12 to 14 years depending on the astrological significance.

The 58-foot and 8-inch statue of Gommateshwara, carved (978-993 AD) out of the granite bedrock of the mountain, is one of the tallest free-standing statues in the world.

How to reach

By Air: Bangalore Airport (155 km).

By Rail: Hassan railway station (52 km).

By Road: Well connected to the major cities of Karnataka through state highways and district roads.

Dharmasthala Temple

Dharmasthala is also a major pilgrimage centre for both Hindus and Jains. The temple is unique as it belongs to the Shaiva sect of Hinduism. The priests are Shivalli Brahmins who are Vaishnava and the administration is done

Jain pilgrims worshipping the monolithic statue of Gommateshwara.

by a Jain Bunt family called Pergades. The description of Dharmasthala will be incomplete without mentioning its most important festival, Maha Nadavali.

It is all about accountability, responsibility and fun and feast for 11 days. Maha Nadavali leaves a lasting impression in the mind of every visitor.

How to reach

By Air: Mangalore Airport (57 km).

By Rail: Kabakaputtur rail station (31 km).

By Bus: Buses are available to Dharmasthala from other major cities.

Narasimharajapura

Narasimharajapura is situated in Chikkamangaluru district.

There are six Jain temples in this place. Simhanagadde Jwalamalini Temple is one of the important Jain temples, which has an attractive black idol of Goddess Jwalamalini, the main deity. The temple has a very spacious hall and a sanctum sanctorum.

How to reach

By Air: Mangalore Airport and Bangalore International Airport.

By Rail: Nearest major rail station is Shimoga.

By Road: Well connected by road network.

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Focus / Harvest Fresh Farms

Rustic charm of

farm life

Harvest Fresh Farms is a perfect weekend getaway for those who want to rediscover the simple pleasures of farm life and to have an experience of organic farming T&F Reporter

A

few months back, a couple of top-notch IT professionals right in their 30s and 40s working in metro cities walked out of their air-conditioned offices only to live in a quiet village with a farmhouse. It was a great news then in Kerala which sends a large number of IT engineers to cities outside the state. What could have led them to do so? The answer is simple- the quest to lead a simple life away from the hustle and bustle of the city and to eat what they cultivate in a natural way. In fact for most professionals, a simple village life is beyond their imagination. But they have the opportunity to take time off from work and experience farmhouse stays at least for a few days before coming back to work refreshed.

A short distance from the wilderness of Thekkady lies a little piece of heaven, a

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remote countryside blessed with immense beauty.

Nestled in the foothills of the sun-kissed mountains in the Cumbum valley is the serene and pristine Harvest Fresh Farms that makes a mark on the ecotourism map of India.

It is an organic farm where no chemicals or pesticides are used. Fruits and vegetables here are produced using a system combining traditional methods, innovation and science. It sustains quality of the soil, ecosystem and health of people. Harvest Fresh Farms has successfully combined this new cultivation culture with the traditional hospitality of Kerala to create a first-hand experience of organic farming for those who stay in the farmhouse.

Surrounded by the spectacular landscape of the majestic Western Ghats on all three sides and spread across 39 acres of land, the farm

Harvest Fresh farmstay cottage.

Nestled in the foothills of the sun-kissed mountains in the Cumbum valley is the pristine Harvest Fresh Farms that makes a mark on the ecotourism map of India mainly grows pomegranates along with papaya, guava, mango, passion fruit, rose apple, coconut, tender coconut, jackfruit and an apiary that produces the finest honey.

Kurian Jose, CEO, Harvest Fresh Farms, is very keen to promote sustainable farming practices. “Our farm produces its own fertilizers for our crops.

We also ensure all efforts are taken to minimise the adverse effects of traditional tourism on the environment and to enhance the cultural integrity of the local people,” says Kurian Jose.

Strategically located at Lower Camp, a 15-minute drive from Kumily on the busy tourist corridor connecting Trichy and Madurai with Thekkady and

Munnar, Harvest Fresh has its own advantages.

Tourists on the way to Thekkady and Munnar stop here for a short break and experience organic farming, local cuisine and other farmbased activities. They would be welcomed

by Harvest Fresh with garlands and fresh juice made of hand-picked fruits from the orchard.

Bullock cart and tractor rides take tourists to the nearby idyllic village. A sumptuous and delicious spread of authentic Kerala and Tamil cuisine is served when they come back. The food served in the farm is unique as it is prepared using the locally grown produce.

Lately, a group of Canadian tourists on the way to Thekkady stopped by Harvest Fresh Farms to have an experience of farm tour. During their guided tour here, they were introduced to the process of composting and how crops are grown organically. They also discovered Herbal Garden where traditional medicinal plants are

nurtured. Their trip concluded with feeding geese and hens and visiting the local breed of cows and calves.

Jacques Pierre, the group leader, was delighted at seeing organic farming take root in India. “A true feast for all your senses, the fresh local food was delicious and the staff was very hospitable. It is a great way to spend the day with family and friends, far from the busy everyday life,” Jacques Pierre said.

Cycling down to visit the local farmers’ market and trekking to a nearby waterfall are among the activities to fill your day or just relax and soak in the serenity of the valley. For those who want to spend a tranquil night, there are three cottages equipped with all modern amenities.

Harvest Fresh Farms has received its Organic Certification from INDOCERT, which is an internationally recognised certification body established in India.

www.harvestfresh.in

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Heritage Sites / Junagarh Fort

Royal edifice What makes Junagarh Fort in Rajasthan different and a favourite of visitors? It’s not just the enormous size of the fort but the well-preserved palaces and halls here that steal your heart Text & photos by Thommen Jose

O

ne late winter afternoon, I emerged from Junagarh Fort in the city of Bikaner, Rajasthan, which was radiating in all directions and I was convinced why it was my favourite fort in the country.

In Junagarh Fort, there is no outof-the-blue cordoning-off though the royal family still lives in the fort.

Undergarment-splattered ashlars, stinking bathroom nullahs cutting across your path and unyielding milch animals are missing here.

The fort itself has been passionately preserved. The eateries are right by the exit, just where I wanted

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them. The audio guide is quite comprehensive. There is no need for a deposit, neither money nor your travel documents. And lastly and importantly, there is the absence of severe ‘No Photography’ signs in the fabulously stacked armoury museum.

I have always felt that banning photography from museums is a bit like being sent into war without Kevlar. You either run for cover or drop dead soon. I was admonished for taking pictures of stone sculptures dating back to the times before Christ and the Buddha at a museum in Alwar apparently

because these sculptures that came through numerous wars and natural calamities over thousands of years cannot take the electrons camera flashes emit. The Alwar museum is a fabulous treasure trove.

At a weapon museum in Jaipur, a clammy hand cupped over my camera lens miffing me no end. Soon I was in the hallowed presence of the museum director. There are several museums in Jaipur which take you back in time.

As the second son of the Maharaja Rao Jodha of Jodhpur, the only way for Rao Bika to own a kingdom was to create one. Aided

Karan Mahal.

Anup Mahal.

In Junagarh Fort, there is no out-of-the-blue cordoning-off though the royal family still lives in the fort

by his favourite uncle, a military strategist, and a few hundreds of infantry, he set off in 1472 on a conquest annexing large tracts of arid land lying towards the north of the region fringing the Thar. What was known as Jungladesh was renamed Bikaner after the conqueror.

Though Rao Bika began constructing Junagarh Fort six years into his reign, what one sees of the fort today was largely built

by Raja Rai Singh, the sixth ruler of Bikaner (1571–1611). A general in Mughal Emperor Akbar’s army, Rai Singh took just four years to build the fort (1589–1593). A pleased Akbar rewarded him with a vast ‘jagirs’ (land with its revenue) for his successful

military exploits. Successive rulers added their own mahals (palaces) and courtyards, donjons and pleasure suites which all go into making Junagarh an eclectic (a tad confusing at times) and an imposing piece of architecture.

Though not on a hilltop, Junagarh Fort depends solely on its gargantuan dimensions to inspire awe. This sandstone and marble fort is built along a rectangular layout with a massive wall with a length of 986 m, width of 4.4 m and a height of 12 m. There are seven gates of which only two are the main entrances, 37 bastions and a moat which is now empty.

The main entrance is the east-facing

Bikaner is also known for the annual camel festival held in the Ladera village.

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Heritage Sites / Junagarh Fort

Bikaner folks in the fort.

I have always felt that banning photography from museums is a bit like being sent into war without Kevlar

The author listening to the audio guide.

Karan Prol (Prol means ‘gate’ in the local language.) through which the kings used to enter the fort.

From here, one passes through a winding courtyard that leads to the inner gate.

The ornate hand prints carved onto the entrance Daulat Prol commemorate the women who committed ‘sati’ by jumping into the funeral pyres of their soldier husbands who died in battles.

Like in any other fort in Rajasthan, here too they serve as a solemn reminder that you are stepping into a lot of history and intrigues, machinations and war,

Kundan jewellery made of 24 carat gold, the purest gold you can ever get is another attraction of Bikaner.

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valour and splendour.

Pass through the marble and stucco grandeur of Karan Mahal (Public Audience Hall) built by Karan Singh who ruled from 1631 to 1639. A fine amalgamation of Mughal and Rajput architectural elements, the walls feature plaster works of green and gold embroidered floral motifs which are believed to be the designs of the master craftsman and artist Ali Raza whom Karan Singh met while battling the forces of Golconda. Ali Raza is also believed to have created the luxuriant embellishments- stucco

work in gold.

Anup Mahal is a multi-storey structure with its own private hall of audience, a throne and an area for guests to watch dance and music performances. A great patron of art and culture, the Maharaja Anup Singh’s reign is regarded as the golden era of art in Bikaner. The carpet here with Persian designs, made by the prisoners of the Bikaner jail, still looks arresting with its hues.

Next to Anup Mahal is Badal Mahal meaning ‘Cloud Palace’ with blue cloud paintings symbolising an entire kingdom’s yearning for rain. Here, one can find numerous paintings typical of the Shekhawati area, evoking the romance of monsoon. Gaj Mandir, the private chamber of the Maharaja Gaj Singh and his two favourite wives, weaves a world of fantasy with its golden-coloured interiors, murals, sandalwood, ivory, stained glass and numerous mirrors. The many niches and slabs one sees here would have once served as bibelots.

Gaj Mandir is also called Sheesh Mahal meaning ‘palace of mirrors’.

Dungar Niwas is named after the Maharaja Dungar Singh, regarded as the father of modern Bikaner who introduced several administrative and social reforms, including electricity, in the state. Lining the room is an array of alcoves with mirrors and pietra dura works along the wall which lends

The interior of Anup Mahal.

it a sublime touch.

Hawa Mahal meaning ‘palace of wind’ is where the rulers used to relax in summer. The mirror placed above the bed had the purpose of pleasure and safety.

Most of the coloured tiles one finds here were imported from Europe and China.

The cavernous Ganga A painting inside Badal Mahal.

Durbar Hall designed knives, swords and other weapons

by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob who of destruction from hundreds of designed the nearby Lallgarh Palace years ago. Also featured are some where the royal family now stays interesting war souvenirs and honours looms over you with its pink stone conferred on the rulers by the columns and fascinating carvings of Mughals for merits in battles. deities, plants and animals. Ganga The quirky pride of place here Hall was built by the Maharaja Ganga has been given to a De Havilland Singh, an accomplished diplomat aircraft which was presented to the and an adventurer, a shrewd military Maharaja Ganga Singh by the British tactician and a progressive ruler, who government for his services during reigned from 1887 to 1943.

World War I. But here comes the Weapons have always been pivotal catch, the DH9s is two different pieces not just in wars but also in court of the wreck put together. Downed ceremonies and official pageants. war machines are on display in every All through its history, arms have second cantonment area, another occupied the highest position in reason for Junagarh Fort coming first technical and artistic capabilities. in my wish-list.

The collection on display at Vikram Vilas is one of the finest tributes to instruments of offence and defence (This is the second of a fourone can find anywhere. Not just part story series on forts by armouries from the dynasty, it also Thommen Jose.) has a jaw-dropping collection of guns,

A ‘sati’ handprint on the wall of Daulat Prol.

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Holiday Spot / Buenos Aires, Argentina

Dancing with

Portenos

Buenos Aires is an easy-going city with the tango dance, music and drinks. May be, tourists are attracted to the Latin American city because of its relaxed nature Jesna George

D

on’t think that you are going to see a typical Latin American city in Argentina.

The lifestyle, customs and culture of the people in Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, are similar to that of any European city.

Take its art, music and architecture, you would say that it’s nothing but European. So Buenos Aires is often described as ‘Paris of South America’.

Situated on the shores of Rio de

la Plata, Buenos Aires is one of Latin America’s most important ports.

Most of the city’s inhabitants are the descendants of those who arrived here by boat from Europe and they earned the title Portenos meaning the ‘people of the port’.

Buenos Aires has won the laurel for being the most-visited city in South America. The city is more than 400 years old and well-known for its outstanding cultural life and European-influenced architecture.

Due to the profound European influence, Buenos Aires stands apart from the other Latin American cities.

The sensuous dance tango evolved in Argentina and Buenos Aires is the perfect place to see it performed. To get the real essence of the Portenos, you need to witness the tango dance. It seems that the city has been obsessed with theatres, nightclubs and football stadiums.

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Holiday Spot / Buenos Aires, Argentina

Singer Carlos Gardel is one of the most iconic figures of Buenos Aires’ tango culture. In the Abasto neighborhood, his native place, you can find pictures of him wearing his trademark fedora plastered among buildings.

While in a public place, don’t get surprised if a local tries to kiss you on the right cheek for it is the standard greeting in Buenos Aires. Go straight to Plaza de Mayo, the mute witness to the political life of the city. Since the 1810 revolution that led to the country’s Independence, Plaza de Mayo has been a focal point of the political life in Argentina. Several of the city’s landmarks are located around this plaza, including Cabildo, the city council during the colonial era. In the centre of Plaza de Mayo is May Pyramid, the oldest and the most influential

national monument. The plaza is also the spot where mothers of the children who disappeared in large numbers, allegedly taken away by the military junta in the 1970s, congregated, holding the signs and pictures of ‘desaparecidos’ meaning ‘disappeared ones’ in Spanish and Portuguese.

Head to the biggest tourist spot in Buenos Aires, ironically named Caminito which means ‘little street’. Caminito wasn’t a street but a stream.

When the water dried up, rail and road tracks were built on the dry bed. When the tracks were removed later, it became a plain

Photo by: Dario Alpern

Buenos Aires city tour bus.

A view of La Plata.

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Cafe Tortoni is one of the oldest and famous cafes in Buenos Aires.

Photo by: Ester Inbar

Buenos Aires has won the laurel for being the most-visited city in South America. The city is more than 400 years old and well-known for its outstanding cultural life and European-influenced architecture

The colourful houses at Caminito, La Boca.

land which is now one of Buenos Aires’ most charming streets. The street always appeared very colourful as houses had fresh coat of paints, leftover from the shipyard where most residents worked. Located in the neighbourhood of La Boca, the street is the right place to see artists working and also to watch their completed works. It is known that this street inspired Juan de Dios Filiberto to write his famous tango ‘Caminito’. Several museums are also awaiting visitors along the street.

You can’t miss the market at Plaza Dorrego on Sundays, especially if you are interested in antiques and curios.

One of the oldest public squares in Buenos Aires, Plaza Dorrego turned into a market in the 18th century when farmers came there on Sundays with their wagons laden with the produce to sell.

The present-day antiques market was started in the early 1970s. Visitors to the market can enjoy other things like outdoor cafes which are numerous here and performances of tango, and even take a few lessons on the dance. It is easy to locate Café Tortoni in Plaza Dorrego because it is Argentina’s oldest and most famous café. Started by a French national in 1858 who modeled it on a Parisian cafe, Tortoni is still a popular place to enjoy coffee or snacks

with friends. Writers, painters and other artists frequent the café, so chances are there to come across them. Take the opportunity to watch tango performances on the stage while eating sandwiches or steaks and desserts.

El Obelisco in Buenos Aires is what Times Square is to New York.

A much-loved national monument, El Obelisco stands 223-ft high over the city. The Argentinean flag first flew on this monument built in 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the founding of the city.

After walking around the city, you can get to Carlos Thays Botanical Garden in the Palermo neighbourhood for some

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Holiday Spot / Buenos Aires, Argentina

green shade and fresh air. The garden owes immensely to Carlos Thays, a French landscape artist, who came to Buenos Aires when he was 40 years old and worked to change the face of the city in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Under his supervision, a number of new parks were developed and the existing ones renovated. But the botanical garden was his pet project. Located near the zoo, the botanical garden is home to more than 5,000 species of plants. It is the best place for a stroll or reading.

An evening of classical music and drama is always on your wish-list. And yes, Teatro Colon is the right place, one of the largest opera houses in the world.

With nearly 2,500 seats and a standing room for 1,000 people, Teatro Colon hosts electrifying dance and music performances. The theatre was opened in 1908 with a performance of the Italian master opera composer Verdi’s ‘Aida,’.

The Rio de la Plata waterfront at Puerto Madero has a story of neglect to recognition. It served as the main port of Buenos Aires in the late 19th century, but larger cargo ships soon made it obsolete. Today, new buildings line the waterfront and it is the largest urban development project in the capital.

Giving the project a bit of flair, all streets in the district were named after women.

Take a walk through Puerto Madero in a pleasant afternoon to find the makeover of the port town.

About 55 km from Buenos Aires, there is La Plata which is known as the ‘City of Diagonals’ for its peculiar street layout. There is a public square after every seven blocks. Buildings with the European architectural style stand out across La Plata where the world-class national history museum and Children’s City, the largest in South America, are located.

Buenos Aires is a good place to buy leather goods and silverware. In November, the town hosts the annual Fiesta de la Tradition, Argentina’s most important festival celebrating the Pampas culture.

The Tigre Parana delta, 35 km from Buenos Aires, attracts lots of tourists.

One of the largest deltas in the world, Tigre Parana is a popular weekend getaway for the locals. A day trip from

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Buenos Aires Botanical Gardens.

The sensuous dance tango evolved in Argentina and Buenos Aires is the perfect place to see it performed. To get the real essence of the Portenos, you need to witness the tango dance

Photo by: Jose Maria

Buenos Aires by a boat or a train would be easy and convenient. Once a swamp, the delta now has paths, a canal system, homes and a lively market.

A boat ride into the delta offers a peek at the stilt houses and colonial mansions.

The nightlife in Buenos Aires is vibrant with dance, music and drinks which are part of their culture. There is no celebration without dance, music and drinks. Revellers throng the streets in nightlife areas and almost all nightclubs are packed. Casinos, art houses, theatres, stadiums and museums are all there in the city, but if someone asks me which is the most

popular here, I will definitely say that it is the nightlife.

Traditional cuisine

Traditional Portenos cuisine is a variation on Mediterranean cooking. However, Argentina is undoubtedly famous for its barbequed steaks and robust Malbecs. The full range of asado (BBQ) meat cuts, including sweet meats (with lemon), and morcilla (blood sausage) accompanied by chimichurri (a local sauce with parsley, garlic, olive oil, oregano and vinegar) and a hearty bottle of Malbecs wine will make a food enthusiast merry.

Try Empanadas,

the crescent-shaped pastries, usually baked in the oven and filled with different ingredients such as ham and cheese, meat, chicken and all sorts of vegetables.

It works as a quick savoury street snack.

Pizza lovers can gorge on the thick spongy dough (masa alta) with a crispy edge, usually coated in layers of mozzarella and sold whole or by the slice. Pizzerias serving Italian pizza ‘a la piedra’ are also plenty.

Best time to visit

The climate of Buenos Aires is mild all year around. The best time to visit is April-June or SeptemberDecember. The off-season starts in June and ends in August.

Tango dance.

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Architectural Flavors / Vadakkumnathan Temple, Thrissur

Archetypal

architecture

The centuries-old Vadakkumnathan Temple in Thrissur is best known for its Kerala style architecture with fine wood works and local masonry Sheena Joseph

L

ong stretches of tiled roof, extensive wood works, carvings in granite and laterite stone and lime-plastered walls, granite floors and thousands of oil lamps are the cynosure of all eyes at the famous Vadakkumnathan Temple in Thrissur in the central Kerala. The temple still remains one

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of the best specimens of the unique Kerala architecture dominated by fine wood works and local masonry.

It is evident that designs of temples and traditional homes in the state were greatly influenced by Vastu Shastra.

Vadakkumnathan Temple is an edifice situated in the centre

of the Thrissur city, the cultural capital of Kerala. The temple dedicated to Lord Shiva was built in an elevated area consisting of some acres of land. There are huge ‘gopurams’ (entrances) on four sides of the compound. North and South ‘gopurams’ are not open to the public and devotees enter mostly through

Photos: Prasad Changarath

The temple still remains one of the best specimens of the unique Kerala architecture dominated by fine wood works and local masonry

West ‘nada’ (entrance).

Sreemoolasthanam is situated right outside the West ‘nada’.

The four ‘gopurams’ are huge constructions built with stone, wood and tiled roof, and look almost similar. The passage to the compound is through the centre of the ‘gopuram,’ the walls of which are decorated with numerous carvings.

The passage is so wide and high that even an elephant carrying ‘kolam’ can pass through it easily. Significantly, the northern ‘gopuram’ has never been opened to the public because it leads to an enclosure where the temple elephants are kept and the

pond is located. The southern ‘gopuram’ will be opened only on Thrissur Pooram.

The compound wall built with laterite stone is very high.

The wall is connected to the four ‘gopurams’. On the top of the wall, there are spaces known as ‘vilakkumadams’ (small lamps) that are lit on special occasions like Mahashivarathri. On festival days, it is a spectacular view when thousands of oil lamps are lit on the compound wall.

Outside the compound are several acres of land called Thekkinkadu (teak woods) Maidan which is an oval shaped open ground where

the famous Thrissur Pooram takes place. The entire temple compound lies in the centre of Thekkinkadu Maidan.

West ‘nada’ (gopuram) is the main entrance to the temple. If you enter the compound through the western ‘gopuram’, you will find the marvelous Koothambalam (temple theatre) on the left side.

Koothambalam, a brilliant piece of the Kerala architectural tradition, is a perfect theatre complete with wood works. Temple arts like Koothu, Nangyar Koothu and Koodiyattam are regularly performed

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Architectural Flavors / Vadakkumnathan Temple, Thrissur

The illuminated West nada (entrance) of Vadakkumnathan Temple, Thrissur, which is used by most devotees to enter the temple compound.

One of the many small shrines in the temple compound.

here. It is believed that the master craftsman Perumthachan built Koothambalam in the 7th century. Its roof was designed in a way known as ‘valakkanni’, which prevents the sounds from echoing. Inside Koothambalam, light is allowed to fall in equal amount from every direction. So no shadows are formed during performances. Virtually, there is not a single chair or bench in the theatre. Viewers should sit on the cement floor. Sit anywhere in front of the dais, you can watch the performance without obstruction because the columns have been placed in such a way. There is no sound system in the theatre like that of a modern theatre. Still every sound can be heard without aberration. The greenroom is small and has not taken much space behind the dais. There is no need of electric fans in the theatre as breeze quietly blows from three sides and the slanted roof in four directions is very high. In all aspects, Koothambalam is an architectural marvel in wood. No doubt, watching a performance in Koothambalam is most enjoyable.

If you enter the compound through the western ‘gopuram’, you will find the marvelous Koothambalam (temple theatre) on the left side The temple compound consists of some acres. Within the compound, there are banyan trees and smaller shrines dedicated to different Gods and Goddesses.

Almost in the centre of the compound is ‘chuttambalam’ (circumambulatory temple).

A small passage through ‘chuttambalam’ leads to the inner premises of the temple.

‘Chuttambalam’ is fully decorated with oil lamps numbering many thousands. When lighted in the evening, it would be stunningly beautiful. ‘Chuttambalam’ is large, square-shaped and is around twostorey high built with stone, wood and tiled roof. Walking around ‘chuttambalam’ in the tranquil ambience of the temple would be a refreshing experience for anyone.

In the centre of the inner premises is ‘srikovil’ (sanctorum) flanked by other smaller shrines,

all in a circular form built with stone and wood, dedicated to various deities. ‘Srikovil’ is a large circular structure with a huge Shiva Lingam installed on a high pedestal. The idol of Lakshmi is installed in the back of ‘srikovil’.

It is copper sheet roofed and the exterior wall has elegant mural paintings that are centuries old.

Some of the murals are calculated to be 350 years old. A mural of Natarajan (Lord Shiva in dance posture) is worshipped here and no other temple in the state has the custom of worshipping a mural painting of the deity.

The supporting structure of the circular roof is a massive wood work that exhibits exceptional craftsmanship.

A large statue of Nandikeshwra, popularly known as Nandi, is situated on the ‘veranda’ (corridor) of ‘srikovil’.

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Architectural Flavors / Vadakkumnathan Temple, Thrissur

Though it has lost its sheen, the wooden structure of the temple still appears intact.

On the southern side is the shrine of Lord Ram. It is a two-storey circular structure with a spacious Namaskara Mandapa with 16 pillars that are decorated with ornamental wood works. Walls and roofs of the Ganesha shrine are decorated with exquisite carvings. Some of them feature Pakshi mala (birds in a chain), Palazhi (the ocean of milk) churning, Gajalakshmi and Ashtalakshmi for ceiling decorations. All three central shrines are built on the granite surface.

The main idol, Shiva Linga, is fully covered in solidified ghee and can’t be seen. Over the Linga, generations of devotees have poured ghee by way of offering, which is never removed and has solidified

into a pyramid. The idol is not taken out for the ritual procession.

Vadakkumnathan Temple has won the prestigious UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award of Excellence 2015 for the remarkable conservation efforts made by the Archaeology Department of India. “The award recognizes the remarkable conservation efforts undertaken at the sacred site, which employed age-old rituals and conservation techniques drawn from Vastu Shastra focusing on architecture and construction,” UNESCO said in a statement.

The restoration project rightly deserves the recognition because the beauty of the temple has Restoration is carried out keeping intact the age-old rituals and conservation techniques from Vastu Shastra along with the local know-how.

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The famous Koothambalam under renovation, which is a wonderful piece of work in the Kerala architectural style.

been well preserved and it is said that wood carvings and idols have stayed exactly the same as in its 100-year-old photographs.

In Kerala where termite attacks are common, it is hard for a centuries- old building to exist even if the locals and Dewaswom Board take good care of it.

Vadakkumnathan Temple would have had the same fate of many other historical monuments of the country. But before it went to ruins, Archaeological Survey of India took over the maintenance in 1997 and started renovation work.

The renovation that took place in Vadakkumnathan Temple was an exceptional procedure. The process used for restoration was a mix of indigenous knowledge and local building techniques. Materials such as limestone, jaggery, kulirmavila, panachikaya, kadukka and oonjal

valli (a creeper which is soaked in a particular mixture and later used on the construction material) were used for restoration. No artificial material such as cement was used at any point in the process.

After restoring, wood works were coated with special oil made of eight ingredients to protect it from termites. For each part of the temple, separate strategy was used, and thus it took 10 years and 300 craftsmen to complete the work.

Architect Vinod Kumar, who was involved in the renovation project, says that all the wood used for the restoration was brought from Nilambur and Walayar forests. Wood and other materials were carefully selected by the experienced carpenters, adds Vinod Kumar.

Experienced artisan Shivadas recalls that only more than 50 years

old teaks were used to restore the wooden structure. “Most of the carpenters were from Thrissur itself who have learnt this craft from their ancestors,” says Shivadas. He is very proud of the entire restoration work, especially the recreation of the ‘uttaram’ (cross beam roof) of the sanctum, which needed 14-inch thick wood. It is one of the most challenging tasks of the whole process, he adds.

“Vastu Shastra and original carving methods were strictly followed in every step and the Archaeology department as well as senior architects constantly monitored the work,” says Shivadas.

There is no exact document about who built this temple and when. Various legends exist and most of them state that it was built

by Parasuram, sixth incarnation of Lord Vishnu.

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Coastal Flavours / Fish delicacies

Lip-smacking

curries Soju Philip

B

eing a chef and exposed to the world of cuisines and tastes for many years, I always cherish childhood memories of the fish curry which was the favourite of Kadampanad, a village near Adoor in Kerala, where I was brought up.

With close proximity to Sasthamkotta Lake, Ashtamudi Lake

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and the access to the Kollam harbour, the weekday market in Kadampanad had plenty of fresh sea fish and backwater fish. We would wait to see what fish was brought from the market. The vendors used to come to our doorstep in the morning with the freshwater fish such as pearl spot and mullet. By noon, the smell of the spicy

fish curry wafted out from the kitchen indicating that the curry was ready.

The lip-smacking dish was kept ready in the mud pot.

We were very much exposed to varieties of fish curry and have had a penchant for fish delicacies, and are proud of this culinary tradition. Here are three tasty fish dishes for you -

Meen manga curry, Kadampanadan meen curry and Meen mulakitta curry.

Meen manga curry (fish curry with mango and ground coconut) Recipe

Fish-1kg Green chilli-6 nos Ginger joulienne-15gm Sliced onion-50 gm Tomato quarter-2 nos Coconut grated-1 no Shallots-5 nos Turmeric powder-1tsp Red chilli powder-2tbsp Coriander powder-1tbsp Raw mango sliced-50gm Coconut oil-2tbsp Mustard seeds-1tsp Curry leaves-1spring Shallots sliced-1tbsp Salt- to taste

Method

Clean, cut and wash the fish. Grind the coconut with shallots, ½ tsp turmeric and Kadampanadan meen curry

Meen mulakitta curry

½ tsp chilli powder. Heat half the coconut oil in a mud pot, saute sliced onions, slitted green chilli and ginger jouliennes. Add the turmeric powder, chilli powder and coriander powder mix in little water. Add the ground paste with two cups of water and boil. Add the mango pieces and fish.

Add tomato quarters and simmer it in a low flame. Add salt. Cook till the fish is done and gravy is thick.

Heat rest of oil in a pan, splutter the mustard seeds, methi seeds, curry leaves, sliced shallots, fry well and pour immediately into the curry and close the lid. Serve hot with steamed rice.

Kadampanadan meen curry (Kadampanadan fish curry) Recipe

Fish-1kg Coconut grated-1 no Shallots-100 gm Red chilli-10 nos Curry leaf-2 stalks Green chilli-3-4 nos Ginger-1pc Garlic-3 cloves Coconut oil-4tbsp

Coastal Flavours / Fish delicacies

Meen manga curry

Turmeric powder-1/2 tsp Chilli powder-1tsp Coriander powder-1/2tsp Kudam puli (fish tamarind)-3-4pcs Mustard seeds-1tsp Methi seeds-1/2tsp Tomato-2 nos

Method

Clean, cut and wash fish. Peel and slice half of the shallots. Quarter the tomatoes. Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a kadai. Roast the grated coconut and sliced shallots (reserve I tsp sliced shallots for tempering) till it turns golden colour. Add red chilli and one stalk curry leaf, and give a quick stir. Remove and mix with half of turmeric and garlic, and grind into a coarse paste. Heat oil in a mud pot, saute the whole shallots, green chilli, curry leaf and ginger, add turmeric and 3/4tsp of chilli powder, coriander powder and saute

well. Add the ground paste with tamarind. Give a quick boil and add the fish pieces.

Simmer in low flame, add the salt, tomato quarters and cook till the fish is done.

Heat oil in a pan, splutter mustard, curry leaves and fry the sliced shallots and red chilli. Put the ¼ tsp chili powder pour quickly into the fish curry. Serve hot with par boiled rice.

Meen mulakitta curry (chilli fish curry) Recipe

Fish-1kg Mustard seeds-1tsp Methi seeds-1/2tsp Curry leaves-2 spring Coconut oil-3 tbsp Ginger sliced- 15 gm Garlic slice-15 gm Whole red chilli-4 nos Shallots-50 gm

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Methi powder-1/2tsp Turmeric powder-1/2tsp Kashmiri chilli powder2tbsp Chilli powder-2tbsp Kudam puli (fish tamarind)- 4-5 pc Salt- to taste

Method

Clean, cut and wash the fish and strain. Mix with salt, ½ tsp of red chilli powder and keep it aside. Mix chilli powder, Kashmiri chilli powder and turmeric in little water and keep. Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a mud pot and sauté sliced shallots, (keeping 1tsp for tempering), red chilli broken, sliced ginger, garlic and one curry leaf. Add methi powder, add the spice powder paste with one cup of water and boil. Add the tamarind pieces. Once the gravy is little reduce, add the fish pieces and slat. Simmer in low flame and cook till the fish is done

and gravy is slightly thick.

Heat the rest of oil in a pan and splutter the mustard, methi seeds and curry leaves. Fry the sliced shallots and broken red chilli and pour over the fish curry.

Keep the curry for one day and serve with tapioca or par boiled rice.

(Soju Philip is Executive Chef, Club Mahindra Resorts Poovar, Thiruvananthapuram.)

Snack food

Crispy crunchy Bhelpuri

Bhelpuri, Panipuri, Masalapuri and Chaat are the popular snacks both the rich and poor crave for.

They hardly spend a leisurely evening without these crispy and crunchy snacks T&F Reporter

Bhelpuri

Bhelpuri (Marathi) is a savoury Indian snack.

It is made of puffed rice, vegetables and a tangy tamarind sauce. Although Bhelpuri is available in most part of the country and liked by all, young and old alike, it is a much sought-after snack at the beaches of Mumbai such as Juhu and Chowpatty.

Easy to prepare and eat, Bhel is preferred by both leisurely people and busy commuters

in cities and there is no need of the comfort of a hotel to neatly finish this snack delicacy. Roadside eateries serve fresh, tasty Bhelpuri and its varieties without making you wait impatiently.

The variants of Bhelpuri are Sevpuri (a mixture of Bhelpuri, chutney, papdi and sev), Dahi puri (a mixture of Bhelpuri, chutney, papdi and yoghurt), Sev papdi chaat (a lot like Sevpuri but with 2-3 types of chutney,

Snack food

Bhelpuri.

Although Bhelpuri is available in most part of the country and liked by all, young and old alike, it is a much soughtafter snack at the beaches of Mumbai such as Juhu and Chowpatty

Sevpuri.

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potatoes and chana masala) and Churmuri (onion and tomato pieces and coriander leaves along with chilli powder are mixed adding a few drops of coconut oil. Sometimes, fried or roasted groundnuts are also added.)

Bhelpuri is made of puffed rice and sev (thin noodles made from besan flour) which are mixed with cooked potatoes, onion pieces, chaat masala and chutney. Bhelpuri has the Gujarati balance of sweet, salty, tart and spicy flavors.

Prepare the chutney first. For the green chutney, grind together mint leaves, coriander leaves, cumin seeds, chaat masala and the other ingredients to a smooth paste along with lemon juice and water.

Reserve half a cup of sev and put all the ingredients in a wide bowl, and give it a good mix.

Your favourite Bhelpuri is ready.

Panipuri

Panipuri also called Golgappa is a street snack in several regions of India.

It is a round, hollow puri and fried, which is filled with a mixture of flavored water (pani), tamarind chutney, chili, chaat masala, cooked potatoes, onion pieces and chickpeas. Panipuri is a famous street snack not only in India but also in Pakistan, Bangladesh and Nepal.

There are different types of Panipuri. In New Delhi, Punjab, Haryana, Jharkhand and Bihar, it is called ‘Golgappa’.

In Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, it is known as ‘Pani ke bataashe’. In Bangladesh, it is ‘Puchka’ while in Pakistan, it is ‘Golgappa’.

Panipuri is prepared using cooked potatoes and finely chopped onions.

Mix the potatoes, onions, coriander leaves, cumin powder, chaat masala powder and black salt in a small bowl.

Crack the top of the puri with a spoon. Add 2 to 3 tsp of the cooked potato-onion filling to the puri. Stir the green ‘pani’ first and add it to the puri as per your taste.

Masalapuri

Chaat

Chaat is a term describing savory snacks typically served at roadside stalls in India, Pakistan, Nepal and Bangladesh.

Originated in Uttar Pradesh, Chaat is available in small and big towns throughout the country.

All Chaat variants are based on fried dough with various other ingredients.

The original Chaat is a mixture of potato pieces, crisp fried bread, dahi vada or dahi bhalla gram or chickpeas and tangy-salty spices with sour homemade dried ginger and tamarind sauce, fresh green coriander leaves and yoghurt for garnish.

Photo by: Kalyan Kumar

Delhi chaat with saunth chutney.

Masalapuri is a popular snack in Uttar Pradesh. But it is preferred in other states as well.

Masalapuri is made of puri sev, onion, tomato, chilli powder, green peas and coriander leaves. As the name indicates, one of the main ingredients of Masalapuri is the masala.

Crushed puris are soaked in hot masala gravy made of green peas, chili powder, garam masala, chaat masala, coriander powder etc. Toppings of small slices of onion and tomato, carrot shavings

(optional), coriander leaves and sev are added before the dish is served.

A streetside Panipuri shop.

Masalapuri.

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Strange Travellers / Davey du Plessis, Robyn Wolff

Davey du Plessis and his mother Robyn Wolff.

T

A voyage on a

pedal boat Meet this mother and son who are prepared for a voyage from Cape Town to Brazil on a pedal boat without any support craft Tony William

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hey have to cover 6,450 km in 90-150 days on a pedal boat from Cape Town to Brazil. This distance could be covered in around 20 days by a yacht or 12 hours by a plane. Still what prompts the 27-year-old Davey du Plessis and his mother Robyn Wolff, 50, to undertake a voyage of this kind?

Through the expedition, this mother and son want to bring the attention of the world to the mass extinction of animals and to create awareness about wildlife conservation. Both Davey and Robyn are vegans, and Davey is a known environmentalist, an author and a speaker. The expedition has been christened the Atlantic Project.

The ocean-crossing pedal boat powered solely by a pedal system with no engine or sail has been named Vaquita after the most endangered vaquita porpoise native to the Gulf of Mexico. He got the idea of a pedal boat from the social media videos of recreational pedal boats having close competition with kayaks and rowing boats.

“One advantage of pedaling is that it allows my hands to do many things like reading, desalinating water, working on navigation equipment and eating while sailing,” he says. In theory, a pedal boat seemed to be the best for crossing the ocean.

Currently, the pedal boat Vanquita is at Houtbay in Cape Town and anyone can come and see it and pedal the boat. The duo is not looking for any sponsors and will not have any support craft during the voyage.

The duo, if wins, will make many a record such as the first human-powered oceancrossing from the South African shores, the first mother and son team and the first mixed team to pedal across any ocean. They are now waiting for a perfect weather to embark on the expedition.

In 2012, Davey was in news when he was nearly killed in an attack on him in the dense jungle while navigating the Amazon river. He has also authored a book titled ‘Choosing to Live’ on the incident. www.daveyduplessis.com