LONDON FASHION WEEK

FOR MY FIRST BURBERRY MENSWEAR-FOCUSED COLLECTION, I WANTED TO CELEBRATE THE FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION. ENCLOSED INDOORS, I DREAMT OF THE OUTDOORS AND ITS BEAUTY, FUELLED BY THE THOUGHT OF THE CREATIVITY THAT COMES WHEN WE ARE TOGETHER.

With this dream in mind, I became fascinated by the widespread British craft and outdoor movements of the early 20th Century, when people escaped to explore the unknown countryside. They formed communities with a deep respect for nature and the outdoors and looked forward to a future full of possibility. I was not only drawn to the artistry of their craft, colours and shapes, but also to their strong sense of camaraderie and friendship. This collection is an homage to the relationship between humanity and nature, where we can break free and come together to discover new forms of expression. It’s for those who are defining their own path, whose strength and energy have inspired this Burberry collection. Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer The Burberry Autumn/Winter 2021 menswear collection by Riccardo Tisci honours a deep connection to the outdoors, to creativity, to dreams. The presentation explores a new environment within Burberry’s flagship Regent Street store in London - the space is reconfigured as a wandering terrain. The menswear collection gently challenges and subtly reinvents traditions, inviting freedom of expression. The collection itself is dynamic and young, vibrant and alive. Outerwear is key. Clothes are engineered to reflect motion and activity - with pleats, panels and fringes - as if moving in the wind. Layered pieces morph unexpectedly on the body. Tailoring has a sense of twisted classicism, whilst Burberry’s quintessential house codes - the trench coat and Burberry beige - are evolved. The Burberry animal kingdom, a signature house code, is once again revisited through prints and shapes - a nod to the wilderness and the creatures within. Deer motifs inspire the silhouettes of knitted beanies, whilst boots and sneakers on moulded soles are also sculpted to resemble hooves. The collection’s distinct palette is tonal and rich, including Burberry beige, bark brown, oxblood burgundy, city greys and shirting shades of pale blue and pink. Details and decoration evoke the notion of ceremony through badges and adornments - symbolising community and friendship, codes of belonging. The presentation location itself has a rich history of supporting craftsmanship and artistic expression: historically, 121 Regent Street was the site of an eminent gallery with its inaugural exhibition dedicated to arts and crafts. Today, this legacy is honoured, as the menswear collection is exhibited through a modern presentation in this same environment. Tied intrinsically to founder Thomas Burberry’s creations, the idea of optimism and adventure underscores the collection. Modern explorers, pioneers and trailblazers are an inspiration; the garments have a function and purpose. They represent a reality but they are always worn by dreamers.

The AW21 collection design process and aesthetic came out of our lockdown experience, making us want to feel safe and secure whilst taking the time to dream.

The start of the collection was the easy comfortable knits and coats that you can wrap yourself in as to create a warm safe cocoon - the elements of our Preen Home line became organically incorporated into this collection in the form of quilted floral print scarfs and wraps. We designed lounge dresses with an effortless relaxed style whilst still obtaining its signature Preen heritage. The collection has loosely been inspired by a feeling of being ‘unhinged’ (a feeling many of us feel during enforced isolation). We watched the original ‘Grey Gardens’, inspired by Little Edie, who enjoyed the concept of ’even if you don’t go out, you can go out in your mind. Dressing up at home with nowhere to go thus letting your imagination and love of style take you there. Sustainable fabrics were at the core of this collection, using recycled materials and deadstock. All is made to order with limited runs, continuing our contribution to a sustainable planet and to our industry.

THIS LONDON FASHION WEEK, SUSTAINABLE FASHION DESIGNER, ARTIST AND HUMANITARIAN, BETHANY WILLIAMS, WILL PRESENT HER GENDER NEUTRAL CAPSULE COAT COLLECTION, EXCLUSIVELY FOR SELFRIDGES.

As with every collection and project Bethany works on, the social and environmental issues go hand in hand. “This particular project was inspired by our ongoing work with The Magpie Project, a charity that supports women and children under five in temporary, unsuitable or no accommodation. The Women’s Institute community creates a personal blanket for every baby born into the Magpie Family. A blanket is so much more than a piece of fabric, it is a feeling of comfort and shelter and I wanted that feeling to be at the heart of this capsule collection.” - Bethany Williams Drawing on her inspiration, the collection saw Bethany dive into the historical heritage of vintage and antique wool blankets from across the UK. All the blankets are carefully sourced from vintage sellers, whether that’s Antiques Markets or car boot sales. Steeped in history, each blanket sourced tells a story from the textile and weaving techniques, to the county, town or village it was made in. One of her favourite pieces sourced for the collection was found on a pitch black frosty morning at Sunbury Antiques Market at Kempton Racecourse. With her phone touch as her only source of light she came across a rare and usually very expensive Welsh, patterned wool blanket with brightly coloured pink and orange patches. With this collection, the story continues, as each blanket is given a new lease of life through Bethany’s artistic vision and mastering of design-led upcycling techniques, which created this capsule collection. Shapes for the details on each garment come from historical research into childrenswear that she explored with the V&A Museum of Childhood. The complimentary colour palettes, slightly oversized fit and skilful patchwork techniques all create a unique, bespoke-feel to each garment. Handcrafted in London, the nine upcycled blanket coats are available in three different jacket styles. Each garment is conceptualised by allocating a specific blanket to each style of jacket based on its weight, thickness and colour. The outer material is the blanket wool for optimal insulation with a 100% organic cotton lining, sourced from Wales. And the story does not end with the wool that was sourced, each element of these coats has a history. From the UK sourced organic cotton insulation to the handmade wooden buttons made by craftsman Spencer Martin from London Green Wood, a not for profit cooperative, using Hackney grown wood or waste wood from local tree surgeons.

20% of the profits from this collection will be donated to The Magpie Project via The Bethany Williams Benevolent Fund, a fund set up by The Magpie Project and Bethany Williams London. Jane Williams, CEO and Founder of The Magpie Project commented, “ Working in partnerships with Bethany Williams and her creative crew is like a dream come true for us, our mums and minis. Bethany’s NRPF collection brought the issues that blight our families’ lives to the attention of a whole new audience - making change increasingly possible. She lends her spotlight to tell seldom heard stories - empowering and centring those who have previously felt powerless and marginalised. Now the profits from her collection have become a lifeline for mums in moments of crisis. When a mum was forced to move home with 12 hours notice, the Bethany Williams Benevolent Fund paid for a man with a van, which meant that she did not lose the furniture she had saved and saved to buy. When a mum was forced to flee domestic abuse and was housed in a flat with no beds - the Bethany Williams Benevolent Fund meant that her children did not have to sleep on the floor. We are using the BWBF when no other funds are available to mums - and a surprisingly small amount of money (up to £100 at a time) makes the impossible possible for our mums and minis.” This collection is part of Selfridges sustainability initiative, Project Earth, committed to putting sustainability in the heart of the business and reinventing the way we shop. “We are so thrilled to be continuing our partnership with Bethany Williams. Bethany joined the Selfridges menswear edit as part of our Bright New Things programme, and we are so excited to now be launching this collection straight from her LFW presentation. She was a clear choice to be included as one of our key Project Earth partners due to her innovative approach to sustainable and socially conscious work - Jack Cassidy, Head of Menswear.

PRIYA AHLUWALIA RECEIVES THE QUEEN ELIZABETH II AWARD FOR BRITISH DESIGN

British Fashion Council (BFC) is delighted to announce that Priya Ahluwalia of Ahluwalia, is the recipient of The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. The Award was presented by Her Royal Highness The Countess of Wessex, on behalf of Her Majesty The Queen, during a virtual event. Ahluwalia is recognised for her active contribution to changing the industry for the better, her work in pioneering responsible sourcing and manufacturing techniques, while telling the stories of those who make her clothes and the communities she works with. The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design was initiated in recognition of the role the fashion industry plays in society and diplomacy and the movement of young designers that are both talented and making a difference to society through either sustainable practices or community engagement. The inaugural Award was announced and presented to Richard Quinn in February 2018 when The Queen made Her Majesty’s first visit to London Fashion Week. In 2019, the prestigious Award was presented to Bethany Williams by The Duchess of Cornwall and in 2020 to Rosh Mahtani by Her Royal Highness The Princess Royal. With sustainability and ethical practice always at the heart of the design process, Ahluwalia has been chosen for her focus on craftsmanship and community. Her sustainably minded menswear collections, made of dead stock and repurposed locally sourced vintage materials, combine elements and influences from her Nigerian and Indian heritage, making her designs truly unique. She is a progressive thinking leader and agent for change who has used her platform to raise awareness around the challenges of the Black community, especially in the wake of the Black Lives Matter movement. Caroline Rush CBE, Chief Executive British Fashion Council (BFC) commented: “We are delighted to announce Priya Ahluwalia as the fourth recipient of

the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Ahluwalia’s unique and ethical design process combined with her ability and passion to give back to communities around London and the globe make her an inspiration for many young British designers. We are incredibly proud to recognise Priya and look forward to seeing her business grow.” Ahluwalia launched her eponymous label in 2018, after graduating from the MA Menswear course at The University of Westminster and winning the H&M Design Award 2019. In 2019, Ahluwalia was a recipient of BFC’s 2019/2020 NEWGEN initiative, the most established designer development scheme globally supporting the very best emerging talent. In 2020, Ahluwalia became one of the eight brands to win the LVMH Prize 2020 and was noted on the Forbes 30 under 30 on the European Arts and Culture List. The label also became part of the Matches Fashion’s Innovators programme which champions emerging design talent through mentorship, preferential business terms and marketing. In November it was announced that Ahluwalia would be taking part in GUCCI Fest and showcasing their first feature film, Joy, with Gucci’s support. In December 2020, Ahluwalia was named a People Honouree at The Fashion Awards. Each year a designer is selected by the BFC, in collaboration with the Royal Household, to be recognised by the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. The Award, designed by Angela Kelly, inspired by The Queen Elizabeth rose, has been handproduced by Lucy Price at Bauhinia Studios and in Birmingham’s famous Jewellery Quarter. The generosity and commitment of our partners, suppliers and supporters is more vital than ever. Please help us by acknowledging their support for LFW February 2021. Principal Partner: Clearpay. Official Partners: British GQ, Evening Standard, FASHION ZOO, IBM, JD.COM, INC, TONI&GUY and Vanish. Official Suppliers: Fashion & Beauty Monitor, Fora, Getty Images, JOOR, Launchmetrics, The May Fair Hotel. Official Supporters: The Department for International Trade, The European Regional Development Fund, The Mayor of London.