DEEP Surf Magazine—av8_Issue 6_November/December 2013 by DEEP Surf Magazine

WETSUIT & GEAR GUIDE

Father, Son Perspective DECEMBER 2013

Colin Nearman Photo Essay CENTRAL CALIFORNIA SURFING MAGAZINE

Rincon Septic to Sewer DEEPZINE.COM

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Bill “Blinky” Hubina

Tri-County Shapers Symposium

WILLIAM DENNIS SURFBOARDS PHOTO: SUBMITTED

Blinky back in the day.

BY SHAWN TRACHT

The Man Bill “Blinky” Hubina is a fired up, stoked grommet residing in a veteran surfer/shaper's body. Every time I call Hubina or go by his Ventura Surf Shop, I feel like we’re just a couple of teens wandering around the shop frothing over surfboards and surf products. Supreme stoke runs through this veteran surf legend, and he shared his story with me of a young surfer turned life long surf guru and legend.

As we look back, it’s exciting to see how much a part of the surfing family tree Hubina is. In 1964, Hubina became Morey-Pope’s first employee. In 1965, he invented Slip Check, which Delaney named. It was the first wax replacement and was soon on every surfboard across the country. In 1967 Hubina started William Dennis Surfboards with Dennis Ryder. He remembers meeting Bob McTavish at Rincon and being the only ones out on shorter boards. Hubina was riding a 7’11” he had made out of a cut off blank, and McTavish was riding a 7’9” V bottom. McTavish worked with Hubina at William Dennis shaping his orders. George Greenough worked on his waterproof camera housing, kneeboard, and flex fins. Between McTavish's and Hubina’s orders, along with his Slip Check royalties, Hubina was able to buy his first 55-gallon drum of resin. As far as Hubina’s skill set in the shaping bay, he noted that he learned most of his board

VENTURA

Through Time The hands that shape a surfboard have been somewhere, both through time, and the eons of foam dust. For Hubina, that all started in 1959 when he got interested in surfing after helping a friend build a board from a kit in Surfer Magazine. From what he told me, that first board was pretty ugly, but the boys got a few laughs when they took it to Malibu. In 1961, he got his first board, a 9’6” Tiki. In 1962, he got his first “real board,” as he put it, a 10’3” Tom Hale.

Perry testing his craftsmanship.

Since 2009 we have profiled

Character and Life Courageous optimism and a strong belief in the big guy upstairs make up the meta-data of John Perry (JP) and his wonderful family in Goleta. Yes, JP makes highly refined, great surf sticks. Yes, JP has been shaping for over 40 years. Yes, JP can be considered a true craftsman of our sport. Yet, JP hasn’t become a well-known part of the shaping community and conversation for his shaping alone. A depth of character and life experience is poured into each hand-crafted board. The History JP got interested in surfing through his older brother, Tom, in the mid-1960s when it took two guys to carry a board. His earliest impressions of surfing and surfboards were Malibu, Stables (C-Street) and uncrowded Rincon. Surfing back then kind of reminds JP of the surfing happening right now; there are many varieties of shapes being surfed: eggs, reverse tear drops

BY SHAWN TRACHT

Brian Joseph putting an Ancient Art through the paces.

PHOTO: KURAS

Rick Avant ANCIENT ART SURFBOARDS BY DANIEL KURAS

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE October 2013

and a host of down rail guns and mini guns. Each shape is just a lot more refined today. In the 1970s JP took a hiatus for several years surfing around the world. He traveled from Europe to Africa, through the Indian Ocean, then back to Mainland USA through Hawaii. Most of his best surfing and board knowledge came from South Africa at Jeffreys Bay, where surfboards are put to the test. When JP came back from his surfing travels, he started Ocean Rhythms Santa Barbara, where he entertained a host of great shapers under one roof: Matt Moore, Peter White from Australia, Joe Blair of Hawaii, Art Collier of San Diego and Steve Huerta of Ventura, just to name a few. In the 1980s JP and his wife Liz started their family with their son, Blair, and daughter, Jaclyn. In the early 1990s he changed careers to bring in a steady income for the family. Several years ago, JP returned to his passion of surfboard building and designing with

SANTA BARBARA

John Perry JVP SURFBOARDS PHOTO: SUBMITTED

a shaper from each of the tri-counties (Ventura to San Luis Obispo) to highlight the wealth of talent and prowess that the shapers of the Central Coast bring to surfing. This year, our list includes Ventura's Bill "Blinky" Hubina, Goleta's John Perry, and San Luis Obispo's Rick Avant. They have all created their own paths into the shaping world, and all make surf crafts that accentuate the passion of their souls.

From necessity comes creativity… Such is the case for shaper Rick Avant of Ancient Art Surfboards. His fruitless search for a unique surf craftsman forced him to take on the challenge himself and set out to create the boards he was having such a difficult time finding. Avant saw a need in the surfboard market for a shaper that was willing to take a risk in his craft. “I was riding single fin surfboards that I felt needed to be pushed progressively but when I asked my shapers, they were either not sure about my requests or unwilling to take on the challenge,” he recalled. “That’s when I decided to start making boards myself. It provided me the opportunity to implement all my ideas and influences into my own creations and finally get a surfboard exactly how I wanted it.” With a background rooted in boat building and a current career as a marine surveyor, Avant relies heavily on his ocean vessel influences when it comes to his board building. Taking from the practices of Herreshoff Boat Designs, Avant builds all his boards with the thought of obtaining

the “sweet line” and creating a surfboard that is functional yet pleasing to the eye. “More often than not, if it looks good it will ride well,” said Avant.

SAN LUIS OBISPO Trial and Error Nestled deep in Chumash country, miles behind Lopez Lake, the trip out to the Ancient Art compound feels like going back in time. A place where cell phone reception is lost and horses share the road is where Rick Avant calls home. Upon arrival, one is greeted with numerous masterpieces in progress from customized Hobie Cats to a pieced together mini half-pipe, from a gutted ’49 Hudson to the blanks and boards strewn throughout the shaping bay. Avant is a man of ideas. “I’ll be the first to admit that not all my boards work; I am willing to fail. It’s all about trial and error; you don’t know what will work until you actually try it.” — continued

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NOW Available for FREE on the iPad App Store Read DEEP online at www.deepzine.com

PHOTO: BALZER // RIDER: ZEKE LAU

ENGINEERED FROM THE INSIDE OUT

X-Dry AN ULTRA-LIGHTWEIGHT COMPOSITE MATERIAL COMPRISED OF AN “X” CHAIN OF HOLLOW STRUCTURED FILAMENTS WITH SUPERIOR HEAT RETENTIVE PROPERTIES

PHOTO: CHRIS BURKARD

There are few days of the year where all the conditions come together in flawless fashion. Warm weather, sunny skies, offshore winds, and swell mix together as Tanner Gudauskas takes advantage of a perfect Central California day.

November/December 2013 > Volume 8 > No. 6 Central California Surfing Magazine EL DIRECTOR: Andres Nuño EDITOR: Chuck Graham GRAPHIC DESIGN: Dan Levin PHOTO CORRECTION: David Levine ADVERTISING: info@deepzine.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Craig Comen Derek Dodds Peter Dugré Chuck Graham

Dan Hamlin Michael Kew Brent Lieberman David Pu’u Shawn Tracht CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Kenny Backer Truman Boren Andy Bowlin Chris Burkard Evelyn Cervantes Rick Cowley Mattson Culbert Nicole de Leon Seth de Roulet Gary Dobbins Derek Dodds Erin Feinblatt

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Chuck Graham Lori Graham Paul Greene Craig Hamlin Dan Hamlin Logan Henderson Michael Kew Cameron Knowlton Brent Lieberman Colin Nearman John Patrick David Pu’u Brian Salce Jacob Salce Rick Sharp Josh Sparrow Daniel Torres Bill Tover Shawn Tracht © ASP / Cestari

SUPPORTING STAFF: Lea Boyd Peter Dugré Amy Orozco Joe Rice Dan Terry (Sales Rep) Shawn Tracht (SLO County Rep) PUBLISHER: Mike VanStry ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Gary L. Dobbins General Inquiries & Submissions: info@deepzine.com Owned and Operated by RMG Ventures, LLC Carpinteria, CA 93013 Tel: 805.684.4428

COVER SHOT BY CHRIS BURKARD Brett Barley took the risk and left hurricane perfection for seeking the mysteries of what Northern California had to offer.

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DEEP Surf Magazine @DEEPSurfMag

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Dane Reynolds | photo: Sherman

Nose 131/8”

Width 19 1/4” Thickness 2 7/16”

Tail 15 1/4”

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12 News 14 Bobby Martinez Sea Sic 16 Tidelines 18 Comen Sense 19 Ocean View 20 Reflections 22 Northern Exposure 30 Surf Shop Down Low 32 Center Stage 40 Shaper's Bay 48 Board Trachting 58 Ladies Room 60 Green Room 68 Music & Entertainment 70 Surf 'n' Suds Beer Fest Photos 72 Final Frames 74/76 Letter from Editor

24 50 COLIN NEARMAN CRAIG HAMLIN DUBOCK.COM JOSH SPARROW

FEATURES 24

COLIN NEARMAN PHOTO ESSAY Intro by By Chuck Graham

Colin Nearman, a 22-year-old Central Coast dweller, works magic with a camera. His images capture the moments shared between surfers and their native habitat in a way that feels intimate yet iconic of the culture as a whole. Light and dark are contrasted to maximize dramatic impact of these pleasant slices of Central Coast living.

COMMON GROUND Story by Dan and Craig Hamlin / Photos by Craig Hamlin The quintessential image of father-son bonding involves a baseball and a backyard. Fathers like Craig Hamlin, however, have discovered that relationships sealed by saltwater are often the strongest. In this multi-generational essay, Craig and his son, Dan, reflect on their individual histories with surfing and how the sport has deepened their relationship with one another.

RINCON SEPTIC TO SEWER Story by Peter Dugré / Photos by Dubock, de Roulet, Sharp

The 15-year battle over water quality at Rincon Point officially came to an end in August when the Carpinteria Sanitary District broke ground on a project to convert residents of the fabled cobblestone point from septic systems to sewer lines. Surfers who had long argued that contaminants from the neighborhood’s waste systems were making them sick came away winners, though the solution to dirty water may not be so clear-cut.

TRAVEL COSTA RICA Story by Dan Hamlin / Photos by Josh Sparrow

A ticket to tropical Costa Rica gets Dan Hamlin thinking Brownian economics, Bruce Brownian economics, that is. By romanticizing the quest for waves in “Endless Summer,” Brown triggered an explosion in surf travel and effectively fueled a global economic surf stimulus. Hamlin considers the impact while searching out yet-unfilled wave faces.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE October 2013

35 DEEP brings you our annual Gear & Wetsuit Guide.

20 13 Ge ar & W et su it Gu id e

Our Gear Guide offers you every imaginable gift idea for the surfer in your house. You won't have to look any further then these pages to get him/her the perfect gift! Our annual Wetsuit Guide highlights the best wetsuits for the winter season.

SURF SHOP

SURFSHOP

446 E MAIN STREET VENTURA, CA

WHO WE ARE

You could say that WetSand started in the 1970’s as a result of the early days of surfing the coast of Santa Barbara, riding Wilderness and Yater surfboards and taking occasional beer breaks.

Bobby “Do Right”

surfshop.com

Almost 30 years later, WetSand was born as a surf forecast and online shop and soon grew to one of the largest surf sites. Known for presenting surfing like it should be, grounded in the culture that makes sense to most of us; surf travel, creativity, experimentation and respecting the ocean experience.

SURFSHOP.COM

Our brick and mortar store opened in 2007 in Ventura: “the largest small town in California”. Wetsand is a small business is built on family and friends who work to bring what we feel is important to surfing and the lifestyle around us. We are inspired daily by the ocean, surf and non-surf lifestyle, art, fashion and vintage culture surrounding us.

W H AT W E A R E Whiteny Turner

WSURF.COM Art, photography, video, surf culture, fashion and everyday inspiration.

LAT360.COM The new generation of our original WetSand Swellwatch surf forecast

SHOPWETSAND.COM Our online store

Enjoy.

Chuck Graham

PHOTO: TRUMAN BOREN

e need some weather, not some dense fog hugging the coast like most of last August, but some raging stacked swirls bearing down out of the northern Pacific. The last few winters have been pretty lean around here. We’re due for a consistent winter of good waves. The kind that leave my upper back and shoulders sore, the good sore. It’s never enough when you’re a surfer. You’re only as good as your last wave. So I’m sorry to admit I did a three-month-long run of no wave riding from last June through August. I did plenty of other things, some water related, but there truly is no feeling like surfing. Just ducking under one wave I can feel three months of sweaty grime wash away. It’s therapeutic, a rebirth. Surfing makes daily frustrations wilt. It’s a cure-all. That’s the feeling I got when looking over the images for this issue’s photo essay by Central Coast photographer Colin Nearman. I could see the joy surfing brings in the images and the photographer taking them. Costa Rica has been on the surfing radar for decades, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t a go-to destination. Like anywhere, you can still go to well-traveled places and find some gems to yourself. That’s what Central Coast scribe Dan Hamlin discovered in this issue’s travel feature. And finally, we’ve carved through all the new gear to see what’s on tap for the coming year. There’s a lot of good stuff out there, so take your time and comb through our annual gear guide. The holidays are on the horizon.

PHOTO: LORI GRAHAM

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

WHO’S ON BOARD? Dr. Craig Hamlin Photographer

PHOTO: JOSH SPARROW

Dr. Craig Hamlin is a clinical psychopathologist who works in a drug rehabilitation clinic with his oldest son, Matthew. He also pastors a small church in Santa Maria. Craig started surfing in 1961 and began his hobby of surf photography in 1996. He is a graduate of Westmont College in Santa Barbara. Craig is married, with two sons, and he lives in Santa Maria with his wife of 41 years.

Dan Hamlin

Writer

Like most surfers, Dan Hamlin loves to travel in search of waves. A Central Coast native, he resides along the same stretch of coast that he grew up on. His writing has been published throughout the world, and as a surfer he has appeared in national and international publications including Surfer, The Surfers Journal, and The Surfers Path. You can keep up with him at www.oceansandink.com. DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Peter Dugré Writer

Writer Peter Dugré contributes to DEEP whenever the news causes ripples in the Pacific off the Central Coast. In this issue, he explores the 15-year fight that ended in Rincon Point ditching old septic systems, which were thought to leach into the surf, in favor of piping wastewater to the sewage treatment plant. An editor at Coastal View News in Carpinteria, Dugré has covered great white sharks and oil development in past issues of DEEP, when he’s not acting as grammar police copyediting the magazine.

Colin Nearman Photographer

Colin Nearman, 22, lives in Arroyo Grande. He was raised surfing between the two beach communities of Ventura and Pismo Beach. Surfing became a lifestyle through his dad’s 5 a.m. drives to offshore peaks lit by sunrise and a family of friends who just plain loved to be in the water. “My camera became my tool to document what I found as art in these special moments,” said Nearman.

NEWS

ASPUPDATE

PHOTOS: ©ASP/CESTARI

PHOTO: ©ASP/CESTARI

Title #12 is within reach.

Rally Cry BY CHUCK GRAHAM

Lakey maintaining positon for 2014.

urely if anyone can rally from behind for another world title it's Kelly Slater, but after a string of subpar performances the 11-time World Champ will have to work hard for that elusive12th World Championship Tour (WCT) title. September and October were not too kind to Slater. The rough stretch began at the Hurley Pro at Trestles where he finished =13th. The Hurley Pro has generally been one of Slater’s stronger events, and I can’t recall if he’s ever finished that low on the totem pole. That was followed up with an =5th at the the Quiksilver Pro in France, which is a decent result, except for the fact that the surfer Slater is chasing is two-time World Champ and current ratings leader Mick Fanning. Fanning has been a model of consistency all year. His worst result is an =9th and everything else has been an =5th or better. Slater now has two =13ths, but he didn’t help

himself any at the Rip Curl Pro by Moche in Portugal, when he was beaten by a local wildcard culminating in a miserable =25th finish. Here’s what’s required of Slater if he pulls his 12th title out of a hat. He has to win the Billabong Pipe Masters. Even if that were to happen and Fanning finishes =3rd or better, than Fanning claims his third world title. Here’s to some drama on the North Shore in December. Santa Barbara local Lakey Peterson finished 7th overall on the Women’s World Championship Tour. No sophomore jinx for Peterson who surfed her way to two semifinals finishes. It was a tough year for Ventura local Sage Erickson, who did not requalify for the Women’s WCT. She finished 14th on the year end ratings and will have to requalify in 2014 in the women’s star events. PHOTO: CHUCK GRAHAM

CIO Joins Rapidly Growing B Corporation Movement

hannel Islands Outfitters (CIO), a Santa Barbara and Channel Islands National Park-based paddle sports outfitter and fitness center, became one of the first outfitting companies in the world to join the growing movement of hundreds of companies that have elected to be accountable to pursuing the highest standards in social and environmental responsibility as B Corporations. Demand continues to soar for companies that make a difference beyond the bottom line. According to a recent study by the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI), almost 90% of the U.S. population said that it is important for companies to not just be profitable, but to be mindful of their impact on the environment and society. With continued demand for socially- and environmentally-conscious business practices, the B Corporation movement continues to grow with more than 786 certified B Corporations in 27 countries and 60 industries. “We are ocean lovers. The ocean is our office, our playground, and our sanctuary. We want to be a leader in the movement to save the oceans; demonstrating the power of business to drive change, promote conservation, help people live healthier lives, and ultimately, be the solution. Becoming a B Corporation is a natural evolution of our company’s commitment to our customers, communities, and world,” said Garrett Kababik, co-founder and CEO of Channel Islands Outfitters.- DEEP FRI 01

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NOVEMBER 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

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Channel Island Outfitters at the office at the Channel Islands National Park.

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WSURF.COM TIDE CHART

PHOTO: ERIN FEINBLATT

A rare look at a great white feeding on a whale carcass.

Channel Chow Down

ou never know what you might see in the shimmering Santa Barbara Channel. There’s been a lot of activity of late with huge flocks of elegant terns and with rare seabird sightings from southern skuas, black-vented shearwaters, jaegers and blue-footed boobies. There’s even been a brown-footed boobie hanging out at the entrance of the Ventura Harbor. However, a rare sighting of a great white shark feeding on a minke whale carcass certainly takes the cake. The bloated, floating smorgasbord of whale meat was spotted somewhere between oil platforms Gina and Gail in late September. There were reports of four great whites feeding at once. There were also two onlookers in a small, 12-foot-long boat. The owner was seen sticking his head in the ocean with a mask on as the great white swam beneath his boat. Santa Barbara surfer and photographer Erin Feinblatt captured the feeding off the Island Packers boat. The size of the apex predators varied from 10-to-15-feet-long. - Chuck Graham

805 Beach Festival

Still flying high after all these years. Timmy Curran busting loose.

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PHOTO: LIEBERMAN

PHOTOS: JOHN PATRICK

Still Frothy Surf Contest

he third annual Billabong Still Frothy surf contest was held the weekend of September 28 with contestable waves and a huge crowd in Pismo Beach. The Still Frothy Surf Contest is the concept of Walter Cerny, a Central Coast icon since the early ‘80s. The idea was to give back to the groms by giving them the chance to surf with legends, be seen, and learn the ropes of contest surfing. This was also the second year the contest featured a “Tow-At Air” contest using jet skis to whip the contestants into some huge airs. Going super large were Albee Layer, Adam Virs, Kalani Robb, Pat Curren, and Torrey Meister. Meister racked up some trophies and paychecks this year winning the Pro-Am division and the “Toyota Ironman.”The trophies were made of solid jade rocks that were brought up from the depths of shark-infested waters by surfer/diver/artist Drew Arnold. Layer and Virs tied for first in the “Tow-At Air” contest; Layer nailed the “Best Individual Air” award; Virs took the “Best Carve” award; Timmy Curran and Josh Hoyer tied for “Most Creative;” Vinny Leonelli won the Juniors division; Braden Jones won the Boys division; Pittas Higgins earned the Groms division title; and Abby Brown won the girls division. - Brent Lieberman

PHOTO: LOGAN HENDERSON

he Firestone Walker Brewing Company put on the 805 Beach Festival at the Avila Beach Golf Resort on September 21 and it was a great community event to put an exclamation on summer. The festival included artists and shapers from the 805, including photographers Chris Burkard and Brent Lieberman, Forever Stoked artists, John Perry of JVP Surfboards, and Ray Lucke of R. Lucke Surfboards. “Garden’s and Villa,”“Rey Fresco,” and “The Small Kicks,” provided the musical energy to the vibe of stoke that was already flowing. Pouring on tap was the delicious 805 Ale, as well as the family of Firestone Walker beers. Overall, the vibe was mellow and fun, and the feeling of stoke was high. It was a great way to end summer and begin looking forward to fall, when the waves pick up and football season begins. Inspired by calm ocean breezes, epic beer, a slew of surf vendors, and great tunes, this event should go on your calendars. - Shawn Tracht

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WETSAND SURF SHOP

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446 Main Street, Ventura

Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

NOVEMBER 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA www.DEEPZINE.com

Gets

Bobby setting up and driving forward.

PHOTO: KENNY BACKER

Sea Sic BY GLENN DUBOCK

DEEP: You were involved with FTW. What happened to that? Bobby Martinez: FTW just all of a sudden ran out of money and the brand stopped before it even started to get going. DEEP: What made you set up your own line of clothes? BM: I wanted to try to be involved in something that will keep me affiliated with surfing, so I thought I should try to make my own surf clothing company and see how it goes. DEEP: Will you have online sales, retail or both? BM: We are trying to get into some stores right now, but at this moment we are online sales only (www.seasic.com). I am hoping by the time this article comes out we will be in stores.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET

hen it comes to choosing the best surfers to ever ride Rincon, somewhere near the top of everyone’s list is local boy, goofyfoot and former Pro Tour ripper Bobby Martinez. He is definitely “The Man” when it comes to flat-out power surfing. His time on tour is over—but he hasn’t ruled out competing. “I think I may do some lil’ contest here and there, but I honestly haven’t given it any thought as of now,” he said. What Bobby is spending a lot of time thinking about and working hard on is his new clothing company called Sea Sic.

DEEP: How did you come up with the name Sea Sic? BM: I just thought it was a cool name. A lot of people, including myself, say if something is cool than it is sick. I love the ocean, so I thought the name Sea Sic would be rad! DEEP: Do you design everything yourself? BM: I get help and ideas for designs form people but the final say comes down to me. DEEP: What kind of style market are you looking to get into? BM: As of right now, it’s strictly surf—but I want to get into skate and street down the line. I would like it to be that everyone can wear what we’ve got—all different cultures and people. DEEP: Is this the first time in your career that you have taken control of a product line and produced it yourself? BM: Yes, it is the first time I have had 100 percent control of everything. I’ve learned a lot so far, and it’s a great learning experience. It’s definitely different than what I am used to, but I am having fun doing this and I hope people like our stuff so we can continue with Sea Sic. Watching Bobby surf anywhere is a lesson in how to ride fast, clean and full-on down the line. That same way of thinking is reflected in the styling of the clothes that Bobby designs and produces. They say, “Clothes make the man.” I say, “The Man” is now making clothes.

RIDE THE

WESTMARK FEATURING

14 W. Anapamu St. Santa Barbara, CA 93101 805.845.1022 arborcollective.com

TIDELINES

Almost Asked Four Questions Insight into Ryan Lovelace’s New Film BY MICHAEL KEW

EEP: What is “Almost Cut My Hair” and why might we care? Ryan Lovelace: It started as a project to compile all of the footage I’ve gathered and shot over the years into something concrete. But then word got out and people started to get excited and wanted to send me footage they had stashed or had just gotten the week before. So, pretty quickly, it turned from my project into ‘our’ project, something that involved a lot of people I’ve met. Everything in the movie comes back to a relationship I have with someone—a band, a photographer, a surfer, a surfboard—and it’s taken me eight years of work to build those relationships through my boards.

DEEP: Discuss the film’s shapes. RL: It’s just a handful of them throughout. Some sections were filmed years apart with a different person on the same board. For instance, there is a 5’3” t.Rev, which I originally made for you, and it was handed over to Trevor Gordon to surf in Lakshadweep. Later, he surfed it for a while back home. Aubrey Falk also had a go with it. Then it got into the hands of Simon Murdoch, who surfs it beautifully. Other main boards in the movie are Gordon’s 5’10” Piggyback, a high-performance twinnie shortboard, orange with a little swallow tail. (Earlier in the film, there is a lavender version of the same board, which was the first version of the Piggyback model.) Troy Mothershead rides an 8’0” pintail v.Bowls at home and in the Bali section. Gordon rides the same board in the after-credits section. That board now belongs to me, and we are in heaven. The Rabbits Foot that Ryan Burch rode was a mistake. I was shaping it for a regularfooter and realized a few hours later that I had made it backwards, so I called Burch and told him he had a new board. I drove it down to him and filmed him on it for two sessions at Seaside Reef.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Screen grab from "Almost Cut My Hair."

The Rabbits Foot ridden by Ari Browne was taken with me to Australia in 2012; a friend of mine told me a friend of his wanted to ride it in the finless division of the longboard festival, so I said, ‘Sure.’ He grabbed it, said it made total sense, then went out and rode it like they were born together. The footage was shot during a three-month road trip from San Diego to El Salvador with his brother and a few friends. The orange hull that Gordon rode in Lakshadweep was made specifically for that trip and that wave. He wanted to ride it as an alternative in case the surf wasn’t pumping, so the days prior to the swell picking up, that footage was shot of him enjoying some smaller waves and some fun closeout sections. DEEP: What’s behind the film name? RL: I had the film about halfway done before I named it. I was editing the footage of Gordon at Rincon on the Piggyback and needed to put some music on so I could watch the waves together and feel it out as a whole. I decided to play “Almost Cut My Hair” (from Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young’s Déjà Vu album), easily the most important and overreaching song in my life because it’s always nice to listen to. The second it started, I knew no other song would do, and that the movie’s name was there without question. “Almost Cut My Hair” is (to me) about not cutting yourself short, to know that things are going to be hard, but to trust yourself in knowing the right path and following it. In doing so, you can never fail. The song has come to me many times in the past and has driven three of the most significant decisions in my life. The attitude alone has guided me numerous times, and I owe a lot of where I am now to the messages within the song. It felt nothing short of perfect as a name for such a personal film, and I know David Crosby would approve!

COMEN SENSE

BY CRAIG COMEN

An empty gem at the end of the rainbow.

PHOTO: ANDY BOWLIN

Surfing the End of the Rainbow urfing brings amazing things! Ask anyone. Have you seen amazing places, witnessed natural wonder, grown spiritually and enjoyed success from your love of riding waves? My answer is yes, and I continue to look forward to all the benefits that living the lifestyle brings. One doesn’t need to be a pro surfer to gather all types of wealth from the joys of surfing. Sure, the same could be said about any other sport, art or venture, but surfing holds a flame above other things in the fact that we are tapping into the very energy of nature, tides, wind generated swells and geologic formations that have all been in play for millions of years. Thanks to my love and passion, I have a successful business, friends all over the world, a beautiful family of my own and countless memories to fill volumes of surf mags. I wish I could list every person and story here. Like in anything else, along with the good, have come the losses, the failures and the attempts.

Some friends have passed away, some have moved on … like waves fading into grains of sand. These opposites have formed my being, not making me who or what I am, but allowing me more potential to grow or not. The reunions I want to go to will be more filled with waves than words, more about smiles and laughter than old photos, more about sunsets and off shores than yearbooks and achievements. Good and bad, win or lose, past, present or future. Waves are filled with life, and here is to hoping you all continue to fill yourselves up with the nectar it produces.

SURF SHOP & SURFBOARDS 43 S. Olive Street :: Ventura (805) 641-9428 mon-fri 10am-5pm sat 10am-6pm :: sun 11am-5pm (hours subject to change depending on swell)

W W W. F C D S U R F B O A R D S . C O M

OCEAN VIEW

Sitting with Bali coffee in hand, watching the day unfold, at a remote break on the Western Balinese coast.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Excerpt from the story:

Ugly Surfboard, Beautiful Life STORY AND PHOTO BY DAVID PU'U

looked at the brown opaque, 8’10” Bruce Jones longboardish thing that the 6’5”-ish giant of a man held in his hands with great skepticism. We were outside of the homestay my now wife Donna and I had been staying at in a somewhat remote part of Western Bali. The surf was big and perfect that day. As we stood in the hot bright amber that is late morning Indonesian sunshine, I reached out and took this oddly designed heavy board—probably close to 18 pounds, a tri-fin set up, with the center fin being an approximate 7”, high aspect, springy thing. “I had it made for this place. Trust me, it works. And you will need the length,” he exclaimed, in a convincing tone of voice. “Alright man, I will,” and as simple as that I turned, walked down the winding road that ran alongside a massive river that fed the distant sandbar break that lay almost a half mile offshore. I had been watching the place for a few days. Justin had been on me to ride it with him. I had seen the big guy get pummeled and ride some massive ones all alone the night before. I had not been surfing much. My life had taken me more into photography and filmmaking. But this break was so far outside and breaking over such a wide swath of water, it was nearly impossible to shoot while swimming. Seemed like a good reason to surf to me. Plus, no one was around, for the most part. Forty-five minutes later I was sitting far outside waiting for a set and since it was fairly consistent, lining up was easy. Stroking into a 10-footer, I leaned hard into a left, and surprisingly, the board not only had gotten me in early, but it turned with exceptional ease. For the next hour or so I surfed with increasing confidence and quite honestly, that odd brown board was indeed a magic carpet at this remote, open ocean type wave. I began to switch from the lefts, which wound along a deep channel, to riding the rights, which would eventually close out inside, leaving you to paddle frantically, hoping not to be cleaned up by the next set before hitting deep water. A couple hours in to the go out, I picked a biggish set wave, turning to go as the lip capped. It kicked me down face and I eased the board left then carved long and easy up into the lip and banked 180-degrees back down the face. I repeated the process several times as the triple overhead wave rolled across the long sandbar in blue sparkly splendor. Pumping the big board down the line at an oncoming section, I lofted onto the whitewater, grabbed a rail and see sawed down to the unbroken water, and swung left, ramping up on the whitewater. I was sort of laughing, as that big board was acting more like a skateboard than a brown slug of a longboard. The wave reformed and I managed to ride it all the way across the broad rivermouth, stepping onto dry sand. It hit me right then. I had likely just ridden the longest wave of my life. Looking up the beach, I saw Justin sitting in the shade of the big Banyan trees there, with a grin on his face. “I told you!” he shouted. Justin Doty passed away in Hawaii, August 28, 2013 from Esophageal Cancer. The multi-sport athlete, who I had met decades earlier in my shaping room in Santa Barbara, was one of those people who always had a gift to give. People should know about him. He made the world a better place. www.DEEPZINE.com

REFLECTIONS STORY AND PHOTOS BY BRENT LIEBERMAN

Long-time photographer Brent Lieberman takes a long look back at the 1960s and '70s along the Central and South Coasts during the days before leashes arrived and those dreaded cell phones too.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Remembering Stanley’s I first remember going to Stanley’s in 1963 as a 13-year-old grom with my best friend Tony; his older brother Rusty would drive us there. It was the dead of winter and the water was frigid. The surf was about three foot, and I remember when I got out of the water after about an hour of surfing my legs looked dark blue—these were days long before we had wetsuits. Although, I do remember Rusty had a divers wetsuit so he stayed warm. Later on when I got my drivers license in 1966, I started to go up to Stanley’s with my friends. It was always a fun surf, hardly ever crowded and always offered up some nice beach break waves. There was always a crew of characters there. We didn’t eat often at the diner. I think I went in there once and they wanted 35 cents for a cheeseburger and maybe 50 cents with fries (remember gas was 30 cents a gallon back then). We would usually drive down the

MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS

The author's lifelong friend Bruce Trindle at Stanley's circa 1966/67.

Skiing Snowboard Photo courtesy of Patagonia/Clark

Backpacking Travel Footwear Car Racks

Hobie Kayaks

coast to Ventura and go to the day-old Hostess Bakery where you could get a package of cupcakes and Twinkies for a dime, and there was a liquor store almost across the street where you could pick up a soda for a dime, so for 20 cents we had a full gut! In the same trip we could also check out “C” Street and Stables. I drove an old 1961 Econoline Van that had the smallest engine Ford made so my answer to cruise control was a brick that resided on the floorboard. I would put that on the gas pedal and could cruise at about 60 miles per hour. Except for the Conejo grade, at which I slowed to about 40. Oh, the good times.

Shopping locally owned makes a difference

SANTA BARBARA

14 State Street • 962-0049 Mon - Sat 10 - 6, Sun 10 - 5 At the Beach • Free Parking

Free installation Share your travel stories and photos with us! @mountainairsports

WWW.MOUNTAINAIRSPORTS.COM

Locally owned and operated for over 35 years!

PHOTO ESSAY - COLIN NEARMAN

FREEDOM REIGNS BY CHUCK GRAHAM

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

’m all in when it comes to following your passions. It’s good to see when the world’s youth recognizes what is in front of them and grabs it. Central Coast photographer/surfer Colin Nearman is one of those that is getting after it. Nearman started out as a surfer around 6 years of age in Ventura and has been in the water ever since. His love of photography grew from there, and now he documents a variety of subjects beginning with surfing, but including anything involving the great outdoors. “I love to explore all aspects of shooting,” says the 22-year-old Nearman. “Whether it’s midnight long exposures, catching light at its most critical moments, playing with shutter speeds, or using unique techniques to find a different way of creating images.” Early on Nearman could see the benefits of freedom that photography offered the same way

surfing does. One outdoor pursuit carried over to the other. Photography allows him to keep a connection with one of the most important aspects of his young life. “I always want to keep the sense of adventure present,” he said, “the excitement in the journey.” One way he’s doing that is by learning from other photographers. Influenced by surf photographers like frequent DEEP contributor Chris Burkard, as well as Tom Carey and Todd Glaser, Nearman is also seeking his own vision behind the lens. “My goals are simple. To stay inspired and work with as many artists as I possibly can,” continued Nearman. “I want to keep sharing epic moments with friends. But for now I would like to just keep learning and growing as a photographer and as a person, while seeking out any experiences and opportunities that come my way.” To see more work from Colin Nearman go to www.facebook.com/colin.nearman, or www.surfwanderer.com/2013/04/05photo-showcase-colin-nearman/.

Contests or no contests, Dane Reynolds’ style and explosiveness leaves you watching one of the best shows you will ever witness.

The excitement before the beating, but with the reward kept in mind.

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO ESSAY - COLIN NEARMAN

Nate Tyler is indulging in summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s south swell skate park near home.

The art of getting weird under the stars, or under an umbrella. Backroads, surf stories, and campfires ... this is the Central Coast.

captions

From backroads to barrels, the Central Coast can become a surferâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best adventure.

The ghost of a setting sun.

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO ESSAY - COLIN NEARMAN

Where sunrise meets offshore, and appreciation is found. Cayucos, California

Shapes, angles, contrasts. Particular things that give simple images deeper characteristics. Conner Coffin, Oxnard.

A fresh breath of home.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

www.DEEPZINE.com

Stop and Smell the Sage BY DAN HAMLIN

PHOTO: COLIN NEARMAN

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

looked out the window at the Milky Way. Something had shaken the bed of my pickup truck (where I was sleeping), and as I slowly came to, I realized it was just the offshore wind howling. I continued to stare at the night sky for a bit before drifting off to sleep again, hoping the winds were a good sign for the morning conditions. My summer consisted of mostly work and not enough surf. As anyone on the West Coast knows, August saw one of the worst months on record. Adulthood caught up with me this summer as well, obligations and finances not allowing for a surf reprieve abroad somewhere with waves. So I worked, I groveled in thigh-high waves, dodged tourists in the shore break, and I tried to avoid watching

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Can't change fast enough.

anything on the Discovery Channel during “Shark Week.” I checked the forecasts hoping something would appear on the horizon, but got so discouraged at what was on tap that I gave up worrying about it altogether. It got to the point where I avoided looking at the surf before I paddled out. I’d simply suit up and go out, knowing that if I watched it for too long I likely wouldn’t surf. What I found was that when you have no expectations of surfing anything good, it’s much easier to be pleasantly surprised. Suddenly a chest-high set seems like a set wave at Pipe and a wave that allows you to do a proper turn makes you feel like you’re ripping. So after a long and meager summer, I found myself sleeping in the back of my truck at one of my favorite beaches, content to just be amidst nature. The summer masses had retreated and the “campground full” sign was once again turned off. It felt good; it felt like a surf trip (even if I was only 45 minutes from home); it felt like I was right where I needed to be. The morning revealed a groomed and smooth ocean, with just enough swell to raise excitement after a long flat spell. I walked down the beach to the spot I was planning on surfing. Normally the peaks are a bit congested with hungry surfers, but now in the twilight of summer there was hardly anyone around. I paddled out to an empty peak and sat for a second to take it all in. It was hard to imagine that this same beach had scores of people on it just a week prior. It was even harder to imagine that I was no longer surfing thigh-high slop with a pack of people, but instead surfing an offshore, chest-high peak with no one around. I inhaled the sage-filled offshore breeze and couldn’t help but smile. As I walked back to the campsite after surfing, I realized that the most memorable surf trips don’t have to be at some far off destination. More often than not our best memories come from the things in life that we often take for granted, the things in life that we sometimes need to be reminded to appreciate. Things like being able to see the Milky Way or smell the sage. If I had been scoring endless tubes all summer, I might not have appreciated the delight that the chest high peak provided or the wanderlust that the night spent sleeping in the bed of my pick-up satiated. But then again, endless tubes sound pretty nice right about now.

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SURF SHOP DOWN LOW

Moondoggies

The San Luis Obispo location on Monterey Street.

BY SHAWN TRACHT

enuine undiluted surf heritage interfused with a passion for the ocean and pure surf stoke. That is Moondoggies Beach Club in Pismo Beach and San Luis Obispo. Moondoggies opened its first location in 1986 in SLO. Owner Randy Alder is a fourth generation San Luis Obispian, originally from Cambria via Switzerland. He grew up in San Luis Obispo, graduated from Cal Poly, watched the surf market grow during the 1970s and realized there was room for another shop that could offer surf fashion. Alder opened his second location in Pismo Beach in 1990. In 2009, he consolidated both SLO locations and opened the “flagship” store at 837 Monterey Street across from the San Luis Obispo Mission. Over the years, Moondoggies has sponsored and had working relationships with prominent surfers such as Dave Parmenter, Chris Mauro, John O’Connor, Danny Johnson, Zach Hartley, Nate Tyler and Hugh and Eric Soderquist, to name a few. Most of those guys worked the floor at some point, selling equipment as a stopping point on their own paths. Those relationships helped forge the present day Moondoggies. “Our roots are deep in the surf industry, and our allegiance is to riding waves. We are different because surf is in our DNA, and the clothes we offer to the public come from a surf style. We support the companies that give back to the sport. I feel very fortunate to be able to retail Dave Parmenter’s surfboards. He grew up in Cayucos and is the only Central Coast Surfer to ever crack the top 16 in the world. His boards are only offered through our shop,” said Alder. Alder’s shop is a destination shop for surfers, which he has appreciated and worked very hard to maintain over the years. He doesn’t hesitate to mention his appreciation, “especially to my supportive wife, Nicole, and our three actively surfing boys Vanley, Luke and Dane.” Whether you’re a local in Pismo Beach or San Luis Obispo, or you’re traveling through SLO, make Moondoggies a stop on your list when you’re meandering through downtown.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Moondoggies Beach Club (SLO) Open Mon. - Wed., 10 - 7 p.m. Thursday, 10 - 9 p.m. Fri. & Sat. 10 - 8 p.m. Sun. 10 - 6 p.m. 837 Monterey Street San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805.541.1995 For Pismo Beach location visit moondoggiesbeachclub.com

BRANDS CARRIED: Volcom, Billabong, RVCA, Electric, Von Zipper, O'Neill Women's, Quiksilver, Sanuk, Oakley, Spy, Hurley, Hippy Tree, Vans, Rainbow, Reef, Brixton, Penny Skateboards, Element, Creatures of Liesure, Aleutian Juice Surfboards by Dave Parmeter, Shane Stoneman Surfboards, XCEL Wetsuits, Dakine and Santa Cruz.

your one stop surf shop.

PHOTO: MIKE HAMER

Serving Goleta for 16+ years.

Shape your own board. starting at $450.

Includes Blank, Glass Job, Fins • 5’8” - 6’6”

Shaping Room • Ding Repairs

Wetsuits • Surfboards • & More

(805) 683-4450 www.surfcountry.net 109 S. Fairview Ave., Goleta Open mon. - sat., 10-7p, Sun., 10-5P Dynamic Events. Fascinating People. Captivating Stories.

$25 adults /$15 UCSB students and youths 18 & under

Close Encounters: Grizzlies, Piranhas and Man-Eating Pigs

Photographer/Conservationist Joel Sartore

SUN, JAN 12 / 3 PM / UCSB CAMPBELL HALL

A Stranger in a Strange Land

Photographer Jodi Cobb

SUN, FEB 23 / 3 PM / UCSB CAMPBELL HALL

New Adventures in Deep Sea Exploration

Underwater Explorer/Titanic Discoverer Robert Ballard

SUN, APR 27 / 3 PM / UCSB CAMPBELL HALL Photos: Joel Sartore (Sartore portrait with caiman, grizzly, wolf, piranha) Community Partner:

(805) 893-3535 www.ArtsAndLectures.UCSB.edu

Rincon Designs Surf Shop RINCONDESIGNS.NET

gifts for everyone!!!

NEW 2014 FULL SUITS & BOOTIES UGG BOOTS FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY JACKETS, SWEATERS & JEWELRY ORDER YOUR CUSTOM BOARD NOW TO HAVE IT UNDER THE TREE BY CHRISTMAS! CELEBRATING 35 YEARS

659 LINDEN AVE DOWNTOWN • 805.684.2413 • M-S 930a-6p, SUN 10a-5p

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO: COLIN NEARMAN

2013 Gear & Wetsuit Guide

AC TI VI T Y T R A C K ER

1 Scosche RHYTHM Bluetooth Armband Heart Rate Monitor........................... $79.99 Available at www.scosche.com, Best Buy

AR T

2 Sacred Surf Hawaii Art..............$50 - $75

Available at A-Frame Surf Shop (Carpinteria)

BA C K PA C K

3 Channel Islands Surfboards Surf Pack..................................... $99.50

Available at www.cisurfboards.com, CI Retail Santa Barbara / Los Angeles

4 Channel Islands Wet/Dry

Backpack.......................................... $99.50

Available at Surf Connection (Lompoc)

BE A NI E S

5 Rincon Designs Beanies................ $19.95

Available at Rincon Designs Surf Shop (Carpinteria), www.rincondesigns.net

BI C Y CLE

6 Trek X-Caliber 6 Mountain Bike....$749.99

Available at Trek Bikes of Ventura,

www.TrekBikesOfVentura.com

BI C Y CLE A C C ES S O R I ES

7 Nantucket Bike Basket Lightship... $54.99

Available at Trek Bikes of Ventura,

www.TrekBikesOfVentura.com 8 Bontrager Quantum Helmet ....... $64.99

Available at Trek Bikes of Ventura,

www.TrekBikesOfVentura.com 9 Bontrager Evoke Mountain Bike Shoes................... $99.99 Available at Trek Bikes of Ventura,

www.TrekBikesOfVentura.com

BO A R D BA G S

10 Channel Islands CX2 Double (Travel Bag)..................... $180 - $199.50

Available at www.cisurfboards.com, CI Retail Santa Barbara / Los Angeles

11 Channel Islands Team

Light Day Bag...........................$58 - $62 Available at www.cisurfboards.com, CI Retail Santa Barbara / Los Angeles

12 Newf Surfboad Net .................$69 - $145

Available at www.newfsurfboardnet. com and surf shops in Ventura, Santa Barbara and Los Angeles Counties

13 Prolite Rhino Board Bags

Starting at...................................... $145 5’10” – 10” available. Shortboard, hybrid, longboard. Available at Ventura Surf Shop,

www.venturasurfshop.com 14 Wave Tribe Custom Boardbag....... $89.95 Available at www.wavetribe.com,

13 14 15

Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura)

15 Wave Tribe Double Travel Bag......$139.95

Available at www.wavetribe.com, Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura)

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

2013 Gear & Wetsuit Guide 16

BOAR D SO C KS

16 Wave Tribe Eco Boardsock............. $34.95

Available in both Round or Split Toe.

Available at www.wavetribe.com, www.swell.com

BOOTI E S

17 Body Glove Vapor Lace Bootie

3mm, Split / 3mm, 5mm, 7mm Round $64.99 - $69.99 Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara), Esteem Board Co. (Pismo Beach)

18 Body Glove PR1ME Bootie

3mm, Split / 3mm, 5mm, 7mm Round $49.99 - $59.99 Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara), Surf Country (Goleta)

CAME L B AK 19

19 The CAPO..................................... $99.99

Available at Trek Bikes of Ventura,

www.TrekBikesOfVentura.com

CAME R AS 20

20 SoloShot.....................................$479.95

Available at Ventura Surf Shop,

www.venturasurfshop.com 21 Watershot Camera Housing............... $99 For iPhone 5 Available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura), www.shopwetsand.com

CL IM B I NG H AR NE SS 22 Petzel / Selena Sama

Climbing Harness......................... $69.95

Available at Mountain Air Sports (Santa Barbara)

COAT

23 Body Glove Tour Coat.................... $99.99

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara)

F INS

24 Culprit Surf 8” Honeycomb Longboard Fins............................ $39.98

Available at www.culpritsurf.com

25 FCS II System................ $49.95 - $109.95

Tri-fin set price. Quads available. Available at Ventura Surf Shop, www.venturasurfshop.com

26 FCS II Performer..........................$109.95

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara)

F L AN E L S

27 Patagonia Men’s Long-Sleeved Fjord Flannel Shirt....................... $89.00

Available at Patagonia Ventura,www.patagonia.com

F OOTWE AR

28 Clark’s Desert Boot.......................... $120

Available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura),

www.shopwetsand.com 29 UGG Australia Tasman and Classic Short $100.00 (Tasman) / $170.00 (Classic Short)

29 28

Available at Rincon Designs Surf Shop (Carpinteria), www.rincondesigns.net

30 Volcom Grimm Mid Shoe................... $85

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

www.DEEPZINE.com

G LO VE S

31 B ody Glove PR1ME 5 Finger Glove...$34.99

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara), Walden Surfboards (Ventura)

32 B ody Glove Vapor Mit.....................$54.99

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara), Esteem Board Co. (Pismo Beach)

HATS

33 A zhiaziam Red/Black Trucker Snap Back $21.95

Available at Morro Rock Surf Shop,

www.azhiaziam.com 34 A zhiaziam Grey/White Trucker Snap Back $21.95 Available at Morro Rock Surf Shop,

www.azhiaziam.com 35 A zhiaziam Black Global Fire Logo Flexfit. $24.95 Available in gold or white logo. Available at Morro Rock Surf Shop, www.azhiaziam.com

36 A zhiaziam Grey Flexfit.................... $24.95

Available at Morro Rock Surf Shop,

www.azhiaziam.com 37 J 7 Tag-It Snap Back Hat................... $19.95

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara)

38 I ron & Resin Tanner Hat........................$36

Available at The Garage (Ventura),

www.ironandresin.com 39 I ron & Resin Tin Pan Hat.....................$150 Available at The Garage (Ventura),

www.ironandresin.com 40 P ablo Surf Diablo Cap...........................$24 Available at www.pablosurf.com, Anacapa Surf and Sport (Oxnard), Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura)

41 P atagonia Interstate Hat......................$29 Available at Patagonia Ventura, www.patagonia.com

42 S eaSic Ghost Rider Snap-Back..............$27

Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta),

www.seasic.com 43 S eaSic Original Snap-Back....................$27 Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta),

www.seasic.com 44 We Are California Grown Silhouette Snap Back...........................$20 Available at www.wearecaliforniagrown.com

HE A D P H O N ES

45 Scosche RH656M - Camo

On Ear Headphones with tapLINE Remote & Mic ................................ $99.99 Available at www.scosche.com 46 S cosche IEM856 Noise Isolation In Ear Monitors with tapLINE Remote & Mic........... $109.99 Available at www.scosche.com

62 63

HO O DS

47 B ody Glove Vapor Hood................... $39.99

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara), Esteem Board Co. (Pismo Beach)

48 Surf Beanie Looks better than a hood!....................$25 Available at www.surfbeanie.com

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

2013 Gear & Wetsuit Guide 49

JACKE T S

49 The Rambler Jacket.........................$240

Available at The Garage (Ventura),

www.ironandresin.com

K AYA K S

50 H obie Mirage Outback............. $1,999.99

Available at Mountain Air Sports Santa Barbara

L E ASH E S

51 C ulprit Surf Pro-Performance COMP Leashes with Traction Cuffs..........$17.38

Available at www.culpritsurf.com

52 J 7 Comp-Lite 6-ft. Leash...............$19.95

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara)

53 Wave Tribe Eco Leash....................$21.95

Available at www.wavetribe.com, Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura)

NAPS AC K 53

54 55

54 P oler the Napsack...........................$130

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

PANC H O S

55 N o Bad Day Panchos ....................$29.99

Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

PANTS

56 P atagonia Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cords......................$89

Available at Patagonia Ventura,

www.patagonia.com

PHON E AC C E SSO RY 57 S cosche boltBOX

Retractable Charge & Sync Cable for Lightning Devices....................................$24.99 Available at www.scosche.com, Wal-Mart

POMA DE

58 B yrd Original Formula Pomade..........$16

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

PORTAB L E SP E AKE R S 59 S cosche boomBOTTLE

Rugged Wireless Mobile Speaker................ $149.95 Available at www.scosche.com, Wal-Mart

60 S cosche boomCAN

Portable Media Speaker............................$14.99 Available at www.scosche.com, Wal-Mart

61 N ixon Blaster Speaker.....................$150

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

59 60

R ACKS

Start on page 38

62 P aradise Bike Rack.......................$59.99

Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

63 S urf Country Car Racks 64

5-foot straps $42.99 / 7-foot straps $45.99 Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

64 Thule 500 Xsporter..................... $649.95 Available at Mountain Air Sports Santa Barbara

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET

center

stage

A great bottom turn leads to a great top turn. Bobby Martinez feeling it.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

www.DEEPZINE.com

SH I R TS

65 B urrito Surf Stamp Pocket Tee......... ..$28

Available indigo blue, athletic gray, and charcoal gray. Available at www.burritosurf.com

66 B urrito Surf Double Wrap Tee............ $28

Available in charcoal gray, or coffee. Available at www.burritosurf.com

67 B urrito Surf Friday Afternoon Kit....... $50

Includes navy blue Burrito Surf felix hat, double wrap Burrito Surf tee in charcoal, beer koozie, and some stickers. Available at www.burritosurf.com

68 B urrito Surf Vaquero Tee................... $28

Available in sand, white, and athletic gray. Available at www.burritosurf.com

69 G oleta the Goodland Tees............. $19.99

Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

70 I ron and Resin Ride to the Sea........... $36

Available at The Garage (Ventura),

www.ironandresin.com 71 I ron and Resin Whiskey Bent Tee....... $36 Available at The Garage (Ventura),

www.ironandresin.com 72 J7 American Made Tee.................. $24.95 Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara)

73 Pablo Surf Road to Rio Tee................. $28 Available at www.pablosurf.com, Anacapa Surf and Sport (Oxnard), Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura)

74 Pablo Surf V-Neck Stripes............. $32.99 Available at www.pablosurf.com, Anacapa Surf and Sport (Oxnard), Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura)

75 Rincon Designs CARP Tee and Trucker Hat

76 73

Tee available in navy blue, black, tan, light blue.... $25 Hat available red, pink, black, blue, green, grey, purple................................... $19.95 Available at Rincon Designs Surf Shop (Carpinteria),

www.rincondesigns.net 76 SeaSic S.B. Diver............................... $25 Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta),

www.seasic.com 77 SeaSic Original.................................. $20

Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta),

www.seasic.com 78 We Are California Grown Silhouette........................................ $20 Available at www.wearecaliforniagrown.com 79 We Are California Grown Silhouette Tank................................. $20 Available at www.wearecaliforniagrown.com 80 Wetsand Love State Baseball Tee....... $38

80 83

Available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura)

www.shopwetsand.com

SW E ATE R S

81 Iron and Resin Molera Hoodie............ $84

Available at The Garage (Ventura),

www.ironandresin.com 82 P atagonia Insulated Better Sweater Hoody..................... $199 Available at Patagonia, www.patagonia.com

SWEATSHIRTS

85 E ndless Summer

Available at www.pablosurf.com, Anacapa Surf and Sport (Oxnard), Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura)

Also available in tees (long / short), and tanks. Available at Beach Break Surf Shop (Ventura Harbor)

83 Pablo Surf Script Hoodie................... $25 84 CA Hwy 1 Sweatshirt.................... $41.95

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Available at Surf Connection (Lompoc)

Sweatshirt................... $39.95

2013 Gear & Wetsuit Guide SK AT E B O ARDS

86 Arbor Axi ....................................$199.95

Available at Arbor Santa Barbara, MVMT (Isla Vista)

87 Arbor GB Sizzler..........................$159.95 Available at Arbor Santa Barbara, Sundance Beach (Goleta)

88 Arbor Fish...................................$189.95 92 88

Available at Arbor Santa Barbara, Beach House (S.B.)

89 Gravity 29” Mini..........................$179.99 Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

90 Gravity 43” Dropkick...................$199.99 Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

91 Kahuna Longboards........... starting at $165 Available at Beach Break Surf Shop (Ventura Harbor)

92 Powell Mini Cab Complete............ $79.95 Available at Surf Connection (Lompoc)

93 Sekence Anchor 31” Cruiser ............. $169 Available at Surfride Surf Shop (Oceanside),

www.seckence.com 94 Sekence 26.5” Mini Cruiser .............. $109 Available at Progression Surf (Encinitas),

96 94

www.seckence.com 95 Sekence Mustache 33” .................... $149

Available at Surfride Surf Shop (Oceanside),

www.seckence.com 96 Sekence Shark Island 42” ................ $187 Available at Progression Surf (Encinitas),

www.seckence.com

SKIS

97 Rossignol Soul 7..........................$699.95

Available at Mountain Air Sports Santa Barbara

SNOWB O ARDS

98 Arbor Cadence............................$399.95

Available at Arbor Santa Barbara

99 Arbor Westmark..........................$399.95 Available at Arbor Santa Barbara

100 Arbor Whiskey............................$399.95 Available at Arbor Santa Barbara

101 Burton Restricted Custom...........$549.95 Available at Mountain Air Sports Santa Barbara

SUNG L ASSE S 98

101

Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

100

102 Dot Dash Sunglasses

Poseur $19.50 / Nookie $25.00 / Sidecar $25.00

103 Electric Knoxville Union.................. $140 Available at www.sundancebeach.com

104 Filtrate Proper............................. $64.95

103 102

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara)

105 Oakley Custom Split Jacket.............. $250 Available at Trek Bikes of Ventura

106 Zeal Kennedys................................ $139

105

104

Available at Surf Connection (Lompoc)

106

107 Blue Planet BP1024PK.................. $29.95 108 Blue Planet BP1025 Black.............. $29.95 109 Blue Planet BP1025 Tort................ $29.95 110 Blue Planet BP1027...................... $29.95 Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria), Plum Goods (Santa Barbara),

107

108

110 109

www.karmicAnarchy.com, www.BluePlanetEyewear.com www.DEEPZINE.com

SU R F M AT

111 Surf Grass Mat.................................. $30

Available at www.sundancebeach.com Available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura),

111

www.shopwetsand.com

THERMALS

112

112 Stanley Thermal Products.........$12 - $42

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

T R A CTI O N

113 Channel Islands Surfboards

Jordy Smith Signature Pad ............... $39

Available at www.cisurfboards.com, CI Retail Santa Barbara / Los Angeles

114 Channel Islands Surfboards

Dillon Perillo Traction Pad................. $39

113

Available at www.cisurfboards.com, CI Retail Santa Barbara / Los Angeles

114

115

115 Channel Islands Surfboards

Yadin Nicol Signature Pad.................. $39

Available at www.cisurfboards.com, CI Retail Santa Barbara / Los Angeles

116 Famous Port Pad.......................... $37.95

Available at J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara)

117 Prolite Kid Creature Tail Pads........ $41.95

116

Available at Ventura Surf Shop,

www.venturasurfshop.com 118 Wave Tribe Cork Deckpad.............. $37.95 Available at Home Grown Surf Shop (Ventura),

www.wavetribe.com

117

118

WATCHES

119 Electric DW01Nato.............$350

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

WAX

WOMEN'S

120 Wave Tribe Eco Wax...........$1.99

Available at www.wavetribe.com, Lassens

119

BA C K PA C K

120

121 Cut ‘n’ Paste Backpack..................... $228

Available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura),

www.shopwetsand.com 122 Hershel Little America backpack with rubber straps.......................... $100 Available at www.sundancebeach.com

BO O T Y S H O R T S

e Are California Grown Booty Shorts...$15 123 W

Available at www.wearecaliforniagrown.com

CO VE R UP S

124 Assorted Coverups............................ $25

Available at Beach Break Surf Shop (Ventura Harbor)

FL A N NE L S

125 O’Neill Jaxon Flannel......................... $46

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

HATS

126 Billabong Beach Lover....................... $20

122

121

124

125

123

Available at Ventura Swimwear (Ventura Harbor)

127 Sacred Surf Hawaii Hats

Lilac Paisley, Red, Chocolate Dragonfly.......................$28 Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria), The Beach House (Santa Barbara), Central Coast Surfboards (SLO)

126 127

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

2013 Gear & Wetsuit Guide 128 132

F OOT WE AR

130

128 Clarks Spye Bell Bootie.................... $130

Available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura)

129

www.shopwetsand.com 129 TOMS Classic (light wool).............. $53.95

131

Available at Surf Connection (Lompoc)

130 TOMS Jacquard Desert Wedges.......... $85

Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria),

www.rincondesigns.net 131 TOMS Jacquard Nepal Boots............. $110 Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria),

133

www.rincondesigns.net 132 UGG Women’s Dakota Moccasin....... $100 Available at www.sundancebeach.com

JACKE T

133 Khul Women’s Flight Jacket............. $160

Available at Mountain Air Sports Santa Barbara

JE WE L R Y

134 Simona V. Necklaces and Rings

Necklaces starting at ....$42 Rings starting at ....$62 Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteira)

134

135 Necklaces................... Starting at $13.99

Available at Beach Break Surf Shop (Ventura Harbor)

135

PANTS

136 Patagonia Women’s Fitted

136

Corduroy Pants................................. $89

Available at Patagonia Ventura,

www.patagonia.com

SHIR T S

137 Love State Baseball Tee................ $38.00

Available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura)

www.shopwetsand.com 138 California Love Tees & Hats short sleeve $22.50 / long sleeve $29.50 / hats $18

137

More colors and styles available. Available at Ventura Swimwear (Ventura Harbor)

e Are California Grown Roots Tank...$20 139 W

Available at www.wearecaliforniagrown.com

138

SWIM WE AR

140 L*Space Sweet & Chic Chloe

Wrap Bikini Top................................. $72

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

141 L*Space Sensual Solids Estella

140

Classic Bikini Bottom......................... $66

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

SWE AT E R

142 RVCA Turkic.................................. $89.50

Available at www.sundancebeach.com

SWE AT SH I RT

143 Patagonia Women’s Phone Home

Sweatshirt........................................ $89

139

141

Available at Patagonia Ventura,

142

www.patagonia.com

143

www.DEEPZINE.com

Available at J7 Surf Shop (Santa Barbara) Esteem Surf Shop (Pismo Beach) Surf Country (Goleta) www.bodyglove.com

VAPOR X

Zipper: Chest and Back Ten Years of the warmest suit in the water has inspired Body Glove to build the most technologically advanced suit ever dreamt about. The Vapor X introduces a revolutionary advancement in seem sealing with the LIQUID WELD inside and MICROBEAD outside. Keeping the tradition of warmth, we’ve added a new THERMOPLUSH and the quick drying X-DRY throughout. Carrying on the tradition of WARMER, DRIER, LIGHTER, The Vapor X crams more technology into this suit than anyone thought possible. Sizes: XS, S, MS, M, MT, ML, LS, L, LT, XLS, XL, 2XL Colors: Black, Ink Blue, Ivy 3/2: $409.99 4/3: $459.99 5/4/3 Hooded: $499.99

PR1ME

Zipper: Chest In a world of wetsuits, most pony up a laundry of tech features in attempt to have bullet point’s equal performance. The PR1ME takes a different approach, sometimes less is more … The PR1ME is a beast that’s built with this in mind. It was designed to be the most flexible and comfortable suit ever. From the EZ ENTRY slant zip that makes getting into the PR1ME a breeze, to the pairing of EVOFLEX and MICROBEAD on the outside keeps water out, The PR1ME becomes an outer skin that is a force field of warmth and flexibility. PYROSTRETCH thermal fiber on the inside balances warmth and stretch to meet the goal of maximizing performance. Sizes: XS, S, MS, M, MT, ML, LS, L, LT, XLS, XL, 2XL Colors: Black Lime, Black, Black Red 3/2: $359.99 4/3: $379.99

VOODOO

Zipper: Chest Rising from the depths is a creature of groundbreaking strengths. This fullsuit is an evolutionary marvel, only dreamt up by our mad scientist to offer extraordinary performance in a mid-level suit. By extrapolating the DNA of our Vapor X and cross-pollinating it with the exceptional Siroko, our lab has created a mystic beast that is the VOODOO. Full Magna Flex lined with hollow fiber Thermoplush insulation on the chest and back maintains warmth without restricting movement in the darkest of waters. Sealing out the water with Fluidseal on the seams creates a coldwater suit that can move with the ease of any suit out there. Sizes: XS, S, MS, M, MT, ML, LS, L, LT, XLS, XL, 2XL Colors: Black, Black Ivy, Black Deep Gray, Black Graphite 3/2: $279.99 4/3: $299.99 4/3 Hooded: $319.99

Zipper: Chest Focus. Speed. Strength. The all-new CT is a no frills suit that thrashes the competition in the most important areas of wetsuit technology. The CT is 100% Magna Flex with Glued and Blind Stitched seams that make it flex and perform better that suits that are priced way above it. By Building a suit that is focused on flex, the CT offers uncompromised performance. Sizes: XS, S, MS, M, MT, ML, LS, L, LT, XL, 2XL Colors: Black Deep Cyan, Black Yellow 3/2: $199.99 4/3: $229.99

SIROKO

Zipper: Back Built on proven technology, the SIROKO is made by combining every feature imaginable into a suit that performs with suits that cost 2 to 3 times more. The SIROKO is a high-end suit at an entry-level price. The suit has all you need to stay warm and won’t burn up your hear-earned cash. Sizes: XS, S, MS, M, MT, ML, LS, L, LT, XLS, XL, 2XL, 3XL Colors: Blue Aster, Black, Bright Silver 3/2: $139.99 4/3: $149.99

4 5

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

2013 Gear & Wetsuit Guide Available at FCD Surfboards 43 S. Olive St., Ventura & your local Patagonia surf dealer www.patagonia.com

R 2® BACK-ZIP FULL SUIT

The entire R2 series has 100 percent external seam sealing, internal taping on all critical areas and is made of high quality neoprene that passes Patagonia’s standards for longlasting performance and durability. The R2 Features our proprietary mid-weight merino wool lining in the entire torso and thighs for core warmth and comfort. The sleeves, inner/outer thighs, and lower legs are lined with a lightweight green recycled-polyester grid for warmth and increased flexibility. Our patented grid lining is used throughout to maximize dry times. Made for cool water: 55-65° F. $469.00

M ’S R2® YULEX® FRONT-ZIP

From Seed To Suit let the revolution begin. Yulex is a plant-based biorubber that reduces the environmental footprint of our wetsuit suits without any sacrifice in warmth, stretch, and durability. Yulex biorubber is made from the guayule plant, a sustainable non-food crop grown in the U.S. that requires little water and no pesticides to grow. Our R2 Yulex Front-Zip has all of the stretch, warmth and performance characteristics you need with the added bonus of being hypoallergenic. Check one out this fall! $479.00

M ’S R2® FRONT-ZIP HOODED

New for 2013 the R2 Hooded Full suit has 100 percent external seam sealing, internal taping on all critical areas and is made of high quality neoprene that passes Patagonia’s standards for long-lasting performance and durability. The R2 Features our proprietary mid-weight merino wool lining in the entire torso and thighs for core warmth and comfort. The sleeves, inner/ outer thighs, and lower legs are lined with a lightweight green recycled-polyester grid for warmth and increased flexibility. Our patented grid lining is used throughout to maximize dry times. Made for cool water: 55-65° F. $499.00

The entire R3 series has 100 percent external seam sealing, internal taping on all critical areas and is made of high quality neoprene that passes Patagonia’s standards for long-lasting performance and durability. The entire torso and thighs are lined with our original heavyweight merino wool for core warmth, and comfort while the sleeves, inner/outer thighs, and lower legs are lined with our proprietary mid-weight merino wool grid for warmth and increased flexibility. Made for cold water: 48-55° F. $549.00

9 6

M ’S R3® FRONT-ZIP

M ’S R1® FRONT-ZIP FULL SUIT

The entire R1 fullsuit lineup has 100 percent external seam sealing, internal taping on all critical areas and is made of high quality neoprene that passes Patagonia’s standards for long-lasting performance and durability. The lightweight green recycled-polyester grid is laminated to the entire torso and thighs to maximize warmth, comfort, stretch and dry times. $359.00

www.DEEPZINE.com

SHAPER'S BAY

J7 SURFBOARDS

FCD SURFBOARDS

Shaped by Jason Feist

Shaped by Fletcher Chouinard

Redline

F-Rocket

6’0 x 19” x 2 3/8” Speed, control and drive. The Redline has it all and once you step on the gas pedal, you will know what we mean! The performance outline features a swallow tail which allows for precise and control regardless of what the waves are like. Standard sizes are 5’6”-6’8”. Available at J7 Surfboards 24 E Mason St ., Santa Barbara (805) 290-4129 www.j7surfdesigns.com

6’6”, 7’, 7’6”, 7’10” Glassing: triple 4 oz. warp glass deck, double 4 oz. warp bottom Fin setups available: Quad, Quad/Thruster The F-Rocket is a very popular new concept for us in big-wave guns. Kohl Christensen’s favorite board. We stretched the Fark and made it a round pin. Very low entry rocker for early takeoffs. The quad gives control and speed and the ability to take a highline in the tube. Single to double concave and vee out of the tail. It’ll turn off the tail and perform much better in everyday surf than your regular mini-gun. Available at Fletcher Chouinard Designs 43 S. Olive St., Ventura (805) 641-9428 www.fcdsurfboards.com

PROTECT YOUR HOME & PROPERTY Kitchen Hood Systems Fire Suppression Systems Fire Pumps, Hoses, Nozzles Fire Sprinklers / Extinguishers Wildland Property Assessment Fire Protection Gels, Foams, Paints “Your Fire Protection Connection since 1978”

(805) 684-0805 •JOYEQUIPMENT.com 48

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

MATT MOORE SURFBOARDS Shaped by Matt Moore Rincon Round Pin 6'5" x 18 1/2" x 2 5/8"

High performance point-break round pin. Tail riding board, and great pocket styled board. Thruster or quad fin set up. Available at Rincon Designs 659 Linden Ave., Carpinteria (805) 684-2413 www.rincondesigns.net

santa’s one stop shop full service surf & skate shop & holiday headquarters

Largest Selection of Wetsuits on the South Coast

Plus Over 700 New & Used Boards “ONE OF THE LAST REAL SURF SHOPS” 88 E. Thompson Blvd. Ventura Open Daily, 9-5 • 805.643.1062 1-866-WAX-IT-UP • www.VENTURASURFSHOP.com

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OPEN DAILY: Thurs. – Sun. 11am – 9pm Mon. – Wed. 2pm – 9pm

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IN DOWNTOWN CARPINTERIA • LINDEN AVE at RR Tracks • 745-8272

uggs  toms sunglasses wetsuits & MORE... Open M-F 10-8p, Sat. 10-7p, Sun. 11-5p (805) 736-1730 surfconnection.net 1307-C North H St.

 SKATEBOARDS  surfboards  SANDALS

COMMON GROUND

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

BY CRAIG AND DAN HAMLIN P H OTO S B Y C R A I G H A M L I N

Dan Hamlin, forehand wrap.

Miki Dora at the Malibu Invitational circa 1967.

FAMILY DYNAMICS can get complicated at times. Relationships of any kind, be they family or otherwise, require a certain amount of common ground. It doesn’t have to be super complicated. Often times, it’s the simple things that make the difference. When I was younger, I don’t think I appreciated the relationships in my life like I should have. Recently my dad came across some slides he took as a kid at Malibu, and it brought to mind how simple and yet how important it is to find common ground in the relationships we cherish. For us, the ocean has been one such source of this. - Dan

CRAIG:

I started surfing in 1961, at the end of the balsawood board era. On my first visit to Malibu some guy tried to sell me a balsa board for $50. I later learned his name was Miki Dora, a surfer for whom I’d soon gain much respect for his surfing abilities. For the next 12 years, Malibu became my summer playground, with occasional trips north to Secos. There were many excellent surfers who rode Malibu: Lance Carson, Johnny Fain, and “Buzz” to name a few. However, without doubt Dora was the best, and he knew it. In the winter months I would travel north to Santa Barbara to surf Rincon and Hammonds; I loved Hammonds. In those days the caretaker of the Hammonds Estate allowed us to spread our towels on a putting green that was just above the high tide line. Wherever we surfed, we would always have a fire on the beach to warm ourselves. In the mid-60s, four of my surfing buddies and I started a surf club; we called it North Bay Surf Club to emphasize our connection with the Malibu area. Our club grew to over 50 members with club jackets and patches for our trunks. We surfed competitively and did quite well. In 1967, I had a friend, Gary Ross, on the Bay Cities Surf Club team who was invited to surf in the Malibu Invitational. At the time this was every surfer’s dream: to be able to surf Malibu with just four other surfers. There was some swell that year, and I went to support my friend and take a few pictures. My camera was a Kodak Instamatic. John Severson, founder of Surfer Magazine, was on hand documenting the action as well. One year, Australian Nat Young came to surf Malibu. He was riding a shorter “V-bottom” board and was laying it on the rail repeatedly. He helped usher in a wake-up call that board design was in a period of evolution, and Australians were at the forefront. After watching Nat, the next week I bought an 8’4”V-bottom from Dave Sweet Surf Shop. I put my 9’6” Dora Cat in the garage. With the smaller boards, surfing took on a whole new look. In 1973, I moved to Santa Maria to start a career and raise a family. For the most part, my surfing days had Dan, left, and his father, Craig. www.DEEPZINE.com

COMMON GROUND

Matt Wahl, Pismo Beach.

Nate Winkles. Dan and Nate grew up together and Winkles definitely helped him progress.

come to a close. But in 1996 my son Daniel and I had a discussion that changed my life. Dan played baseball and basketball for his high school, but he was put off with the politics that are a part of high school sports. I told him how much I enjoyed surfing, and much to my delight, he said he wanted to try it. It so happened, I was selling my Dora Cat to a collector in Laguna Beach. As part of the deal I got a 1975 7’4” G&S surfboard. It was a single fin and had lots of volume, perfect for Dan to give surfing a try. That board opened up a whole new world for Dan and me. Later that same year, I borrowed a 35mm camera with a telephoto lens from my brother to take some photos of Dan surfing. I never gave that camera back to my brother. I shoot surfing about twice a week now. This may be hard to understand, but somehow I vicariously surf with each shot I take. I feel like I am back in the game again, and I enjoy it immensely.

DAN:

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

When I think back, I really owe a lot to my dad, especially when it comes to surfing. I had a late start in surfing, though the ocean has played a significant role in my life from a young age. But I didn’t start surfing until my mid-teens, when my dad suggested I give it a try after I told him I was done with organized sports. I’m not very competitive, so in high school when coaches and everyone else started taking things a bit too seriously for my taste, I decided I’d had enough. That’s when I started surfing. Growing up, I’d periodically overhear my dad recount stories from his surfing days and one of the overriding themes

I took away from his stories was that Rincon and Malibu were amazing waves. So when I paddled out for my first time I wanted it to be at Rincon. I figured if that was the best wave around, then I should go there. My dad tried to gently enlighten me on surfing protocol, and suggested we try somewhere not so crowded. It’s kind of funny, but for me to quit high school sports and start surfing was a bigger deal than you’d think it should have been. Some of my friends, teammates and coaches thought I was getting mixed up with a bad crowd. I remember making a conscious decision that I was going to surf regardless of what my peers thought. And so with a little encouragement from my dad, I did just that. The first time I caught a wave and rode down the line it was a stormy and miserable day. Just when I was about to go in out of frustration, I caught the wave that cemented my love for the sea and for surfing. As most first rides go, it was nothing too extraordinary, but in that instant I felt an overwhelming excitement and sense of accomplishment. I knew from then on I was a surfer. Sometimes I find it strange that I ended up loving the ocean so much; it almost took my life when I was 5. It happened while my family and I were enjoying a sunny day at Shell Beach. I was playing near the shore break when a surge of water caught me and began to sweep me out to sea. Thankfully my brother saw what happened and was able to hold on to me until my dad could rescue us from drowning. Perhaps the incident helped to foster the fascination with water that has been with me as long as I can recall. Perhaps the incident instilled in me the respect and

Kilian Garland, at home on the Central Coast.

awe I still feel toward the ocean. Perhaps I’m making too much of the incident altogether. Now in my 30s, when I take account of the role my dad has played in my surfing life, I’m forever in debt to him. He passed along a great gift in the act of wave riding; and he helped instill in me a love and respect for nature that endures to this day. Today my dad and I still enjoy surfing together, though he no longer surfs. But he says the next best thing to surfing is photographing it; he says it allows him to surf with each wave he captures through the lens. So we still regularly meet at the beach for a session and still get breakfast afterwards to recount the day’s waves. The ocean is a special place, a common ground if you will, and I’m thankful it has played a role in our relationship.

Bobby Martinez is always fun to watch. He can make close-outs look makeable.

www.DEEPZINE.com

Rincon

G et tin g Se we re d 15-year Battle to Remove Aging S eptic Tanks Ends

BY PETER DUGRÉ

oilets in the 72 homes overlooking Rincon Point will soon flush to the sewage treatment plant in Carpinteria rather than into underground septic tanks, which many contend are too close to the ocean and caused leaching of raw human excrement into the surf zone at the fabled Queen of the Coast. A groundbreaking ceremony for the septic to sewer conversion project held outside the gates of the seaside community in August marked the end of a 15year fight to modernize how the wastewater from Rincon Point is processed, and while Heal the Ocean—the driving force behind the project—and Carpinteria Sanitary District celebrated the end to the maze of legal entanglements cleared in that decade and a half leading up to groundbreaking, unanimity as to whether Rincon even had a problem or if

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

standard sewage treatment was the solution was never reached. A stormy winter in 1998 started the conversation. Rincon was routinely closed due to contamination. Surfers were getting sick. A trio of regulars at the point, Wayne Babcock, Joel “Smitty” Smith and Doug DeFirmian formed CURE (Clean Up Rincon Effluent) to rid Rincon of harmful bacteria. “People were getting sick from the water. They got earaches, sore throats, sinus issues, diarrhea ... and then word got out and more people were saying, ‘Hey I got sick out there,’” remembered Babcock in a recent interview. Then tenacious environmental journalist and ocean lover Hillary Hauser heeded the call to act. She wrote a lengthy opinion piece in Santa Barbara News-Press entitled “Another day at the beach?” A growingly aware public rallied around ocean pollution

PHOTOS: DUBOCK.COM

In the digital age, there are more photographers on the point than ever before.

From the bottom of the cove looking toward the point. Will the sewer do the trick?

PHOTO: DAVID PU'U

Coastal bottlenose dolphins are the best surfers on the point.

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO: DAVID PU'U

Ri ncon G e t t i n g Sew ered issues. Activists protested outside a Santa Barbara County Supervisors meeting, and harnessing the energy of the rising tide of public will, Hauser formed nonprofit Heal the Ocean and made ridding Rincon of septic systems a top priority. “Surfers who were beating the drum were really responsible for getting this started,” Hauser said in a recent phone interview. One of Heal the Ocean’s first steps was to order a DNA test of the waters at Rincon Point near the mouth of Rincon Creek. According to Hauser, the tests produced the smoking gun. The culprit, human fecal bacteria, was identified among fecal coliform of many other animals. Momentum was all on the side of sewering Rincon in 1999 and 2000. It was a no-brainer. A grouping of 72 septic systems near alluvial soils must leach into the ocean. “If you’re sitting on groundwater, on a creek, on sand, it’s no bueno,” Hauser said. She compared Rincon’s situation to similar problems in Malibu where septic systems are also believed to cause ocean contamination. arpinteria Sanitary District, then under the direction of now-deceased John Miko, was open to expanding its reach to Rincon Point. Once the bureaucratic process started, it slowed to a crawl. A majority of Rincon residents, who will foot the costly bill to convert, were on board, and voted to form an assessment district to enforce payment for the project. However, detractors sued, contending that an assessment district could not be formed, and residents could not be forced to pay for a project before an Environmental Impact Report was approved. The court agreed that project planners had put the cart before the horse, and the assessment district was dissolved before it formed. Hauser called the situation a Catch 22. An EIR would cost $425,000, and without residents paying for it, nobody knew where the money would come from. “I thought, ‘Oh god we’re dead in the water,’” Hauser remembered. She found a way. In 2001, HTO lobbied for and CSD received a State Water Resources Control Board grant to cover the costs and keep the ball rolling. The delays only further fueled the minority in opposition to the project. As years ticked beyond 1998, it became less and less clear that Rincon had a problem. Heal the Bay’s annual beach report card regularly ranked Rincon as one of the cleanest beaches in the area. In 2004, Rincon was the only Santa Barbara County beach that had zero bacterial exceedances. In the next wet winter, 2005-2006, Rincon had the best grade in the county, a C, on its beach report card. And in the dry parts of that year, Rincon had an A+, a mark it shared with only one other county beach. Historical data at Heal the Bay’s website (http://brc.healthebay.org/?st=CA&f=1) shows Rincon had zero closures between 2002 and 2012. Locally, the battle over whether to sewer Rincon turned to mudslinging. Neighbors were at odds. The cost per household to convert is $74,000 up front and $89,000 plus interest if financed over 30 years. Carpinteria resident Giti White, who has family living on the point, directed attention to Carpinteria Sanitary District’s record of spills in 1998. The Environmental Protection Agency came down on CSD in 2002 for stormwater overflows and sewage spills that year. “We are encouraged to overlook Carpinteria Sanitary District’s history of sewage spills, and instead to assume that septic systems are polluting, despite evidence to the contrary,”White wrote

PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET

Classic winter lineup in the cove.

Cranking Indicator. Where's the crowd?

One of renowned artist's Rick Sharp's rendition of the Queen.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

in Carpinteria newspaper Coastal View News in 2008. Testing never definitively showed that the culprit was coastal septic systems rather than any number of potential runoff sources up Rincon Creek. White and others opposed to the project also contended that sewage systems enable development. Rincon has already gentrified from a collection of seaside bungalows to high valued mini mansions. And extending sewage lines to Rincon crosses miles of undeveloped bluffs in Carpinteria which are zoned for a yet to be realized resort. Meanwhile, HTO and CSD navigated a spider web of red tape. Residents had to approve joining CSD and starting an assessment district. Debate about the environmental impacts of the project on sensitive coastal property led to painstaking changes to the blueprints. Notoriously impenetrable CalTrans was brought into the fray, since in order to pump the waste uphill to Carpinteria, right of way was needed along the freeway. And since Rincon Point straddles the Santa Barbara and Ventura County line, both governments had permitting power. It all added up to costs and labor on the part of nonprofit HTO and years of wrangling on a second front, separate from resident opposition and lawsuits. A 2007 vote had Rincon residents in favor of the project by a 41-31 margin. It took until early 2013 for Caltrans and both counties to give final approval. HTO’s dreams came closer to becoming a reality when in the summer of 2013, CSD awarded two construction contracts, which include removal of septic systems and installation of individual pumps and grinder stations at each of the 72 homes, totaling $6 million dollars. HTO can roll down its sleeves for a minute and celebrate victory in its greatest battle. Dubious detractors, however, are left wondering if the $6 million will stimulate coastal development and accomplish little in the way of cleaning up Rincon. Current CSD General Manager Craig Murray, who has maintained that CSD’s role is simply to provide sewage treatment for customers who want it, recently said, “I would hope it cleans up Rincon, but it’s nearly impossible to determine beyond a doubt.” In the future, the treated wastewater from those 72 homes will be pumped into the ocean 1,000 feet from Carpinteria State Beach. www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO: BRIAN SALCE

BOARD TRACHTING

HYP ERF LEX

William - Dennis Surfboards Quad Pro Comp Swallow SHAPED BY BLINKY HUBINA

BY SHAWN TRACHT Hanging 5. Shawn Tracht at Beaver Cove Reef.

ith a crafty stoked smile and years of wisdom and good waves shining through his excited eyes, 69-years-young Bill “Blinky” Hubina chuckled when he handed me his most favorite crafted surfboard and told me, “Shawn, the Quad Pro Comp Swallow is a longboard that rides like a shortboard ... but as a longboard, and you’re going to love it.” Weary eyed and leery, as I usually am when someone hypes up a board to me, I realized there was only one way to test Blinky’s theory—I had to go ride the thing! Now every so often, surfers in the water who have been following my “Board Trachting” journey from longboard to shortboard, asymmetrical to Mini Simmons, finless to seven fins, and so on, ask if I’ve ever had a board that I just didn’t like? Well, the answer is, no, I haven’t. The reason why is two fold: One, DEEP and I go to the best shapers on the Central Coast and choose their most beloved shapes to feature, and two, I have had the opportunity to communicate directly with each shaper to size up my boards appropriately. Most surfers don’t have a chance to discuss their surfing preferences with their shaper, but it’s an essential piece to choosing a magic surfboard. I encourage this experience. Lucky for you, Blinky owns and operates Ventura Surf Shop. So you’re just a phone call or a short drive away from spending time with Blinky to size up your next Quad Pro Comp Swallow.

Shaper's Take: All of my boards start with a deep V, (Bob McTavish-ish). This board is designed to capture water with its hook bottom. I didn’t want it to just ride on top of the water. I wanted it to capture water and channel it through the double barrel concave bottom for direction and drive. I have tried a lot of

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

high performance longboards with this bottom over the last 10 years, but four years ago I was lucky enough to have a young team rider named Heston Jordan on my boards. Jordan is one of those guys that could ride an ironing board. I made him my first four fin. It took a while to get the fins in the right place, and the board had plugs all over the place; however, in a nut shell, he won virtually all the NSSA contests he was in throughout high school, and we perfected this model. The board starts at the tail with a hard flat V for 12 inches mellowing into double barrel concave for three feet to the hook bottom (concave). This runs into the front three feet of the nose, which at the deepest part, has 3/8” of concave. The template of the shape gets drive off the bottom because of the straight rail line from the tip of the 7” swallow to the mid-section of the board, and the curve is gentle into the nose to make the board transition well and not catch rail on lip hits and late drops. For people who are non-believers, we have demos. To this day, I can’t tell you how many surfers try the demos, and come right back to the shop to buy this model.

Surfer's Take: You must be asking yourself, what’s a longboard for a short boarder, and what does it do? A shortboard, as we think of it, is built to rip. It’s built to surf hard, yet with fluidity. To do this, a shortboard has a lot of curve in the board to fit and pivot in a wave’s curl. A shortboard also has a performance bottom for rail-to-rail surfing through transitions. Remember, flat and straight equals fast, and curve equals performance. To make this board ride very high performance, Blinky changed the flats and curves from a traditional longboard. Many longboards also have thicker rails; basically, more foam for float and directional glide.

The author scoops into a south swell pit.

PHOTO: TRACHT

PHOTO: JACOB SALCE

Legendary shaper Bill “Blinky” Hubina. PHOTO: SALCE

Late evening stroll.

PHOTO: SALCE

The author and shaper at Ventura Surf Shop. PHOTO: PAUL GREENE

Tracht bashing lips on a 9’.

This board, however, has very thin rails, only 2 5/8” thick at the thickest point. That is similar to a highperformance fish. It’s actually thinner in the rail line than some of my fish. Thus, the rails were thin like a shortboard, knifed and fast. They were more of a straight, than a curve, which is one place Blinky preserved speed; meanwhile he was adding curve somewhere else. So, with all that speed from the rails, you must ask, so how do you slow the board down and/or pivot it off the bottom and in the deep curl? Well, you do it with nose and tail rocker. Because of the deep, double concave through the belly of the board and the V in the tail, it made the board ride on panels—the left side panel, and the right. By surfing with seemingly only one half-panel of the board in the water, the board had less drag, so it moved faster. The V is what helped it transition from rail to rail so well. Absolutely my favorite part of the ride was fading my entry bottom turns left, and then using the V and double barrel concave to slip the board back right, straight into the curl, for an instant nose ride or small head dip barrel. This board is the best of both worlds for a surfer who wants a longboard for the sake of enjoying a longboard, yet wants a longboard that can really perform. Blinky said he had created a longboard that could fly down the line, hit the lip, carve cutbacks, ride the nose, get barreled, you name it. Not being a longboard die-hard, I had a hard time believing his words and years of verbal expertise, and then I rode the board and fell in love. If you’re a short boarder who’s always kind of wanted to have a longboard around the garage but don’t want to totally give up performance opportunities of a lip hit or barrel here or there, or if you’re a long boarder who is looking for more performance in your longboard, then the Quad Pro Comp Swallow is a great choice! Enjoy the ride!

WILLIAM-DENNIS SURFBOARDS Shaper: Bill “Blinky” Hubina Board Shape/Design: Quad Pro Comp Swallow How to Order: Order based on your size, weight, and ability. For best sizing, speak to someone at Ventura Surf Shop, particularly Bill “Blinky” Hubina himself. Fins: Quad. Board’s Specialty: Get into waves early, fade the bottom turn, and then swoop back the other way right in the curl for a barrel or an early nose ride. Make the section, and then hit the lip. This Board is Perfect For: Short boarders who need a longboard in the quiver, and long boarders who have been dreaming of more performance from their longboard. Surfboard Tester, Shawn Tracht’s Normal Shortboard: 5’10” x 18” x 2” Tracht Ordered This Board: 9’ x 22 ¼” x 2 5/5” Shaper’s Contact Info: Phone: (805) 643-1062 Website: www.venturasurfshop.com • Email: blinky@shopvss.com Where to purchase this board: Ventura Surf Shop Surfer’s Blog: surfwanderer.com www.DEEPZINE.com

LADIES ROOM

BY NICOLE DE LEON

PHOTO BY RICK COWLEY

Paradise Not Lost

Tip-toeing across the coral.

ineteen hours and a comical amount of different awkward-leg positioning later, I find myself exiting the EVA air terminal and finally arriving in Denpasar, Bali. The thick tropical air that slaps me in the face when I disembark makes my longsleeved shirt, pants and running shoes laughable. I arrive during the day, so plans of evening surf fill me with expectancy. But all dreams of rinsing off my lethargy in the ocean vanish when I see the immigration line. With literally a thousand tourists exiting at once and what looks to be two tiny employees handling visas, let’s just say I don’t arrive to “Mama Tom Tom’s” “The traveler sees until the sun is melting behind the horizon. With what he sees, the three more weeks to go on the “Island of the Gods,” I tourist sees what he am sure I will have plenty of time to surf; in fact, from first look at the lines marching in at sunset, the has come to see.” my ocean is already providing. – G. K. Chesterto The next morning, with all the contents of my board bag strewn around me, I am engulfed in a colorful circle of surf paraphernalia. The Warung that I’m staying at has an expansive deck that looks out over two popular surf spots here on the Bukit Peninsula. Clearly these spots

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

have not been a secret for at least the last decade because by the time the sun peers past the ocean at dawn, there are already two-dozen bodies filling the lineup. For a goofy-footer who gets excited at the prospect of a left-hander that travels for more than five dumpy seconds, waking up to glassy, peeling lefts has my eyes twitching and heart Tranquility racing. Because thewaves. tide is high and the shoulder high lefts looked rippable, I take my between squash-tail and jump into the channel. Little do I know how much heavier this same spot will be on low tide with triple the swell later this week. As I paddle past an array of surfers from different countries, I smile optimistically and sit wide. Patiently, I wait for the wide swingers while everyone else grovels for the rest. This wave is a machine. It is almost funny how perfectly it breaks over the reef. Although it takes patience when flawless waves go by with someone on each one, I try not to grovel and luckily end up with a few long, faultless lefts to myself. Walking up the beach, the smells of incense coupled with barbequed fish fill the salt-infused air. Because this side of Bali has an unfathomable tendency for being glassy all day, it is easy to remain in the water for a profane amount of time. The power moving in the water here has the ability to shift the currents of energy in one’s body and creates a buzz of anticipation that verges on crazy. It is so easy for surfers here to stand captivated

for hours staring at another perfect set even when their skin is fried and stomach is grumbling. It very rarely goes flat this time of year, and even the mediocre spots are solid and reeling most days. Where there used to be one or two places that surfers could sleep on cots and pay for food for less than a dollar, there are now hundreds of accommodations on the Bukit to choose from, most with plastic water bottles and surf photo CD’s for sale. Regulars and locals alike tell stories of empty lineups, resigned to the reality that world class waves like these could not go unridden long before tourists started arriving in flocks. Bali is dependent on tourism, including surf tourism, and if it wasn’t for the strength of its beautiful, rich culture, it could be easily exploited. Staying in a “surf mecca” proves to be a dance between accepting the crowded lineups and searching hungrily for the next best spot. Ironically it isn’t until I take a cue from the locals and give into the moment and resign myself to enjoying the slow pace and warm people around me that I start really enjoying the trip. As a surf-hungry tourist myself, I had to learn the important lesson of patience, presence and gratitude. I spent my first week stressing on finding surf with my mind spinning when I only got a wave or two all day, but then the magic of Bali persuaded me to let go. I decided not to chase, but to just let it be, and the island opened its heart to me in a way I could not have imagined. Friends were made, rides were offered, meals were cooked and hearts were opened. The flawless surf Bali has to offer just proved to be the icing on the cake. Taking a break between surfs. PHOTO: DE LEON

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TRAVEL: Costa Rica

LivingtheDream I hadn’t been back to Costa Rica in almost 10 years. Due to mixed reports from various friends about the crowds, I wasn’t really sure what to expect this time around. During my first visit, I remember imagining myself living out the same sort of experience I watched Pat O’Connell and Wingnut have in “Endless Summer II.” On my first visit, crowds were minimal, and although I didn’t score waves like the ones I saw in “Endless Summer II,” I still felt as though I had surfed some waves off the collective surf radar. Even back then Costa Rica was by no means a secret destination, but it still had plenty to discover within its borders. This time I wondered if I’d be horrified to find a surf heaven trampled by commercialism or if the “Pura Vida” would still be alive and well. Upon arrival, the first thing I noticed was the improved airport. Though technically Costa Rica is still a developing country, many parts of it feel as though you are in as modern a place as anywhere. Malls, casinos, luxury hotels; the government has capitalized on the country’s popularity amongst tourists. The whole country seems to cater to tourism. But just like anywhere in the world, there are always pros and cons to development. I was blown away when we reached the coast and I got my first view of Jaco. I expected that it would have grown, but I wasn’t really ready for how much it had grown. High rises and surf shops now lined its shores. Jaco wasn’t some sleepy fishing village 10 years ago; it was already known back then for its nightlife, but I couldn’t believe how many buildings had gone up in such a short time. “That guy is living the dream right there. He’s got his Robert August longboard and he’s in Costa Rica surfing Witches Rock and Ollie’s Point.”The statement got laughs from our little

We thought for sure this wave would be crowded; we were wrong. John and the author taking a moment to savor our fortune.

We covered a lot of ground on this trip and saw a lot of Costa Rican countryside.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

STORY BY DAN HAMLIN PHOTOS BY JOSH SPARROW

Costa Rica has salt water crocodil es.

On one particular day, we were

chased out of the water twice at

two separate spots by one of thes e guys.

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TRAVEL: Costa Rica

Costa Rica is a top tourist destination. With breathtaking waterfalls like this one seemingly commonplace, it's no wonder.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Unknown, living the dream.

. Playa Hermosa, central Costa Rica

group. I don’t remember who said it, but there was a lot of truth to the remark. Heck, we had been joking with each other all morning about watching “Endless Summer II” the night before. We knew it was cliché, and we didn’t mind laughing at ourselves about it. But the joke sort of summed up the equation. And it made me think of the impact the “Endless Summer” movies have had on our sport. I would argue that they have had the biggest influence (apart from equipment, i.e. wetsuits etc.) on our sport since the Duke. Which makes Bruce Brown a more influential surfer than even Kelly Slater or Tom Curren. Think about it. Even with his confounding number of World Titles, Kelly Slater has never caused a global manhunt for new and pristine waves among surfers. Slater’s titles haven’t caused whole communities in developing countries to open businesses and employ locals by catering to surfers willing to pay to live the dream for a few days a year. After our day at Witches, we were eating at one of the local resorts in Tamarindo, which also had a surf school. I watched as local instructors taught visiting gringos to surf in the nearby shore break. It could be argued that these locals’ jobs were a direct result of Bruce Brown deciding to make a movie about surf travel. I don’t really think Brown intended for his movies to have such an impact, but here we are decades later and people are still trying to live out their own version of Brown’s portrayed idyll. I probably wouldn’t even know what surf travel was if it weren't for Brown and the ES movies. In those two films, he encapsulated the average surfer’s dream in a way

no one had done before. And after years of travelling for waves, one can get jaded from time to time. But as I sat in our hotel room that night watching Brown’s ES sequel, I found myself, if only for a little bit, caught up in the romance of the storyline again. I also realized this time that what truly made Brown’s movies a success wasn’t simply the idea of surf wanderlust, but also the theme of friendship and camaraderie woven into it. Which is why a good session at home with friends can be just as rewarding, if not more so, as any session experienced abroad. So here I was in the heart of Costa Rica heading to Playa Negra, one of the featured waves on “Endless Summer II” and therefore most sought after. There’s no boat trip needed to get to this spot; you can drive right up. They even have signs along the way pointing you in the right direction. As we drove, I thought for sure it was going to look like a good day at Rincon, with

Costa Rica has loads of fun beach break; this peak didn't have any takers. www.DEEPZINE.com

TRAVEL: Costa Rica

One of many beautiful Costa Rican sunsets.

loads of surfers clogging the lineup. We parked our car in a relatively empty parking lot, walked down the manicured trail alongside the resort that now fronts the wave and were greeted with perfectly peeling head high rights running along the reef and only a handful of guys out. I’d only been in the water for about 45 minutes when, for whatever reason, folks decided to exit the lineup. I was a bit dumbfounded that here I sat, enjoying one of the most popular waves in Costa Rica completely alone. I couldn’t believe it. I remembered all those mixed reports I’d heard about the crowds, then suddenly those thoughts vanished—there was a set approaching.

Dan Hamlin, pleasantly surprised by Costa Rica's crowd factor, or lack there of on this particular day.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

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GREEN ROOM

Five Tips to Stay Safe on a Surf Trip to Rio, Brazil

STORY AND PHOTOS BY DEREK DODDS

I know I usually write about green business and everything ecological, but let me start by saying there is nothing more organic than staying alive (keep reading). I have been through some crazy situations in my life, but this hits the top three for sure. I have lived through a category 5 hurricane in Jamaica, I was chased by armed bandits by car through corn fields in the hills of Puerto Escondido, and I was on a boat in Indonesia (returning from G-land) when the tsunami hit. However, the event that happened a few weeks ago in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, in some ways trumps all of the aforementioned. I am still unraveling the feelings around the experience and not sure where those disjointed perceptions will land. While on a surf trip to Brazil this summer my partner and I went to dinner down the road from our apartment in Barra, a suburb of Rio. This particular restaurant had the best pizza I have ever had in Brazil: the cheese tasted like it’s flown in straight from Italy, and the garlic was fresher than a northwest swell in October. During dinner we spoke a lot about our stay in Rio. In fact, we were leaving the next day so it kind of felt like a review of the last few weeks of our trip. The conversation was super positive; people had been so gracious to us, kind and helpful—everyone from the bus drivers to other surfers in the water. We finished dinner and went to take a bus home. We had discovered that you can take a bus for $2 or a taxi for $20, and as we learned the lay of the land, we had tried to take more busses than taxis. Unfortunately we got on the wrong bus. Once we realized it, we got off and tried to figure out where the next bus stop was. We saw one a few hundred yards down the road and walked to it to wait for our ride home. We stood there alone, and I had a strange feeling inside, like something was not right or was about to happen. And then it did. As we were standing there, two guys on a motorcycle rode up to us in the dark. I stepped

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

forward to see what was up. Once they got closer, I noticed the guy on the back had a strange look on his face. I looked down at the rider’s hands, and he was pointing a .45 Magnum at me. You see, I know a thing or two about guns. In a previous life (earlier in this one), I would have been the one holding a gun (with a badge), and I put guys like this one behind bars. Maybe in some kind of twisted universe this was my karma. A .45 will rip a hole through you big enough to put your entire arm straight through the exit wound. As they approached, the gunman said something in Portuguese, but even if he had screamed in my ear I wouldn’t have heard what he said. My whole world and all my senses were concentrating on that gun. In what seemed like a nanosecond, I told my partner to run, and we bolted out of there like lightning running toward the oncoming Brazilian traffic. We didn’t turn around until we had sprinted quite a distance; there was no sign of them following. We ran across the road and flagged down a taxi to take us home. There is nothing like having a gun stuck in your face to get a little perspective on life. It’s strange because in that split second that I saw the gun I had no fear. I knew exactly what I had to do, and there was no question about intent or motive. The guy was too far away from me to charge him. I knew instinctively that it would be difficult for him to hit a moving target (i.e. us running) from the back of the motorcycle as they inched forward in the opposite direction. Let’s be clear. It wouldn’t have been impossible. A bullet travels much faster than a human, but I knew that was the chance we had to take. I also knew that even if we gave them our wallets and money they could still have shot us dead in the street, and I wasn’t going to test that theory. I know how ruthless Rio gangs are. If you haven’t seen the movie "Cidade de Deus," based on the semi-autobiographical novel by Paulo Lins, you must watch it to get an understanding of how easily a life can be taken. I knew that I’d go down fighting or running my ass off and hedged on the latter as our best option. Somehow all my instincts knew this, so I ran like a cheetah.

Of course, later I doubted everything. I should have tackled the motorcycle; I should have gone Bruce Lee on them and done a flying Jeet Kune Do kick; I should have taken the bullet for my lady as she got to safety, but the reality is that what happened happened, and nothing else matters. I never thought I would die taking a bullet in Rio, but damn, you just never know what life is going to deal you. I wanted to write about this experience to help remind you of the preciousness of life and also to pass along a few tips if you happen to venture to Brazil for a surf trip: 1. Don’t hang out in dark places at night. Stay in well-lit areas. 2. Stay in a hotel close to the beach that has security. 3. If anyone approaches you by motorcycle, don’t stick around to see what they want. 4. Don’t take a bus at night in Rio; grab a taxi. 5. Celebrate your life today. You never know when it will be over. Life is about clear perception and how you show up in each moment. It’s about the awareness surrounding your daily movements, and it’s about a vital living action. This is why we all love surfing so much. It puts us in “the zone” with very little effort. I hope these tips will help you have a safe trip as you venture to unknown places in search of that perfect wave. Derek Dodds is the founder of Wave Tribe and can be found riding his Mini Simmons around Ventura beaches and foreign surf locations. Please send your comments, suggestions, and stoke to derek@wavetribe.com.

SaNta BarBara Surfer

Photo: Jon Shafer

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SAC R E D s u r f h i . c o m

Surf reportS * Swell forecaStS * photoS * VideoS * profileS

MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT

Malloy Brothers Show Films in Carpinteria

At left Keith Malloy hanging with locals Anthony Vega, Joe Oldani and Tate McAllister. Below, Todd Hannigan & Sleeping Chief doing their thing.

Highline Premiere

PHOTOS: MATTESON CULBERT

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

Above, Conner and Parker Coffin ready for their SB premiere. At left, a large crowd checking out Highline.

he Young Wise Tails—Conner Coffin, Parker Coffin and Ryan Perry—premiered their short film Highline in Costa Mesa and Santa Barbara on October 11th and 12th. Highline was shot during a surf trip with Tanner Gudauskas, Taylor Knox and the Coffin Brothers. The Santa Barbara premiere took place at the Channel Islands Surf Shop with live music by Donnie Hedden and Travers Adler. A great crowd enjoyed plenty of giveaways from some sponsors and walked away impressed with the Young Wise Tails first of many great surf flicks. D"The best part about what we get to do is sharing it with you guys, and seeing the smiles on all of the kids faces when they come and hang at the premiers," read a statement from the Young Wise Tails website. You can can download the movie for free at www.youngwisetails.com.

PHOTOS: BILL TOVER

eith and Dan Malloy showed their surf flicks “Slow is Fast,” and “Come Hell or High Water,” in a double feature at the Carpinteria Plaza Playhouse Theater on September 19. In front of a sold out crowd Dan’s “Slow is Fast” depicted his 58-day, 700-mile journey with Kanoa Zimmerman and Kellen Keane from Northern California to Ventura. With music by Todd Hannigan & Sleeping Chief, Ron Hargrave, a Ukulele playing extraordinaire, and crowd pleasing Chris Laxamana, the Playhouse had an electric crowd. Keith also showed his “Come Hell or High Water,” a body surfing film documenting “The Flight of the Torpedo People” book by Tom Adler and Chris Burkard. All in all, it was a great night for local surf enthusiasts.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE December 2013

PHOTO: GARY DOBBINS

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There are few days of the year when all the conditions come together in flawless fashion. Warm weather, sunny skies, offshore winds, and swell mix together as Tanner Gudauskas takes advantage of a perfect Central California day.

PHOTO BY CHRIS BURKARD

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WILLIAM DENNIS SURFBOARDS PHOTO: SUBMITTED

Blinky back in the day.

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Rick Avant ANCIENT ART SURFBOARDS BY DANIEL KURAS

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[not valid on with other discounts]

$10 off with purchase of $50 or more [not valid on with other discounts] 805.540.5243 | www.lunaredslo.com | 1023 Chorro Street, San Luis Obispo

Savory & Dessert Crepes

(Gluten Free Crepes Available)

TRANSFORMATIVE TOOLS FOR SURFING

DEALER & SURFSHOP ENQUIRIES WELCOME

Mon Ami The taste of France in downtown Pismo Beach

EPIC DEAL

Espresso, Coffee, Paninis & More

Open at 7:30 a.m. (Closed Tuesdays) 230 Pomeroy Ave. • Downtown Pismo Call your order in! 805.773.1458

BUY ONLINE WWW.CULPRITSURF.COM

HANDMADE. FRESH. TASTY. eco-cycled made frames

Pizza • Salads Pastas • Calzones Wraps • Sandwiches Farmers Market Veggies

sustainable bamboo temples 100% uva/uvb protection

6 Micro Brews on Tap Local Wines now available at:

Rincon Designs (Carpinteria)

915 Linden Avenue Downtown Carpinteria 805.684.3354 www.nutbelly.com

Plum Goods (Santa Barbara) www.BluePlanetEyewear.com

chad jackson Photo: azhiaziam.com

surfbeanie .com Perfect for Surfing SUPs, Kite Surfing or all Water Sports

BREAKFAST

Before or After You SURF

Breakfast Burritos Quesadillas Tamales & More

Keeps your head Warm and DrY.

looks cooler than a hood & costs less too!

“Don’t let YoUr HeaD Get colD ... PUt a liD on it!”

Linden Ave. @ 9th St. Carpinteria (805) 684-4981