DEEP Surf Magazine March/April 2014

GREEN ISSUE

Fukushima

Jim Martin Photo Essay

Travel Alaska

APRIL 2014

CENTRAL CALIFORNIA SURFING MAGAZINE

DEEPZINE.COM

Conner Coffin | photo: Sherman

fred stubble | Length 5'8" | Width 19� | thickness 23/8� | Volume 27.2 l | cisurfboards.com

PHOTO: JOSH GILL

Bali Bagus.

March/April 2014 > Volume 9 > No. 2 Central California Surfing Magazine DIRECTOR: Andres Nuño andres@deepzine.com EDITOR: Chuck Graham chuck@deepzine.com GRAPHIC DESIGN: Dan Levin PHOTO EDITING: David Levine ADVERTISING: For advertising rates email info@deepzine.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Christian Beamish Lea Boyd Craig Comen Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock

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Chuck Graham Dan Hamlin Michael Kew Brent Lieberman L. Paul Mann Katie McLean Chris Papaleo David Pu’u Dan Terry Shawn Tracht CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Branden Aroyan Bryce Bergan Bielmann/Volcom Truman Boren Andy Bowlin Lea Boyd Chris Burkard Caterina Caliguiri Evan Conway Nicole De Leon Seth de Roulet Derek Dodds

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

Glenn Dubock Dave Friesen Josh Gill Chuck Graham Paul Greene Brent Hilleman Greg Huglin Michael Kenyon Michael Kew Cameron Knowlton Kamil Konrad Brent Lieberman Nick Liotta Jim Martin Katie McLean Jean-Paul Molyneux Alessandro Morales Colin Nearman Chris Papaleo Jeff Pfost David Pu’u Scott Smith Dan Terry Bill Tover Shawn Tracht

SALES STAFF: Dan Terry SUPPORTING STAFF: Lea Boyd Peter Dugré Amy Orozco Joe Rice Shawn Tracht Kris Whittenton PUBLISHER: Mike VanStry

COVER SHOT BY JIM MARTIN Chris Malloy duck dives in the Mentawai Islands.

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Gary L. Dobbins General Inquiries and Submissions: (805) 684-4428 info@deepzine.com www.deepzine.com Owned and Operated by RMG Ventures, LLC Carpinteria, CA 93013 Tel: 805.684.4428

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2014 Pierpont beacH Ventura, CA

Contestants, Sponsors, Vendors visit: www.facebook.com/SurfRodeo www.SurfRodeo.org

10 News 12 Rincon Classic 2014 Results 14 Northern Exposure 20 Ladies Room 22 Ocean View 24 Comen Sense 26 Sweet Water Runnels 28 Reflections 36 Center Stage 38 Shaper's Bay 52 Product Review 54 DIY: Wetsuit Laptop Case 56 Plugged In 58 Board Trachting 72 Green Room 76 Music & Entertainment 78 Final Frames 80/82 Letter from Editor

30 DAVID PU'U CHRIS BURKARD

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40 DUBOCK.COM

JIM MARTIN

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FEATURES 30

FUKUSHIMA Words + Photos David Pu'u

Waterman David Pu’u turned his ever-insatiable curiosity toward the Fukushima fallout as the nuclear disaster began unfolding in March 2011. Three years later, the answers have started to arrive, but more questions continue to surface.

How is the disaster across the sea affecting the Central Coast? Let Pu’u tell the tale.

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SWELL 2014 Words + Photos Glenn Dubock The shutter on Glenn Dubock’s camera never stopped clicking over January’s 11-day feast of waves. And now DEEP readers are the beneficiaries of Dubock’s finest photos from one of Mother Nature’s finest and most consistent swells on record.

We give you six pages of Ventura and Santa Barbara County slabs to chew on while you look forward to more.

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TRAVEL: ALASKA Words by Christian Beamish. Photos by Chris Burkard

A promise of gold once lured thousands of treasure seekers into the wilds of Alaska. Nowadays, the promise of unridden waves lures, well, at least dozens of surfers into the frigid waters along our northernmost state. On this saltwater mission, the always-adventurous Malloy brothers seek out surf with a crew of Californians.

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PHOTO ESSAY JIM MARTIN Intro by Chuck Graham “The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.” Depression era photographer Dorothea Lange didn’t have surfer/photographer Jim Martin in mind when she made this comment, but she might have if she’d known his work. Take a peek at Martin’s work; you’ll see differently afterward.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

SALTY BEARDS Words + Photos Chris Papaleo Going through the ups and downs with Nick Rozsa. How his son helped turn his life around and got him back on track.

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here’s no arguing with Mother Nature. When she wields a heavy blow, disaster can ensue. We’ve disregarded her warnings for a long time now. I’m not saying we can’t drill for oil or benefit from nuclear power, but we better be prepared to face the consequences because they have far-reaching results that affect all of us.

Whether you believe in Global Warming or not really doesn’t matter, sea levels are rising. There’s no getting around it. Every time I read or hear about bears getting into people’s mountain homes, or someone getting attacked by a mountain lion it’s news, but it’s us that’s encroaching on their land. They were here first.

So there really shouldn’t be any surprise with the nuclear aftermath following the Fukushima - Daiichi disaster in Japan. The Tohoku Earthquake was a whopper and it may affect fisheries here on the West Coast. I hear earthquake proof this and that, but I believe if Mother Nature is angry enough then there is nothing sturdy enough. Check out the “Fukushima - Daiichi debacle”

by David Pu’u in this year’s Green Issue of DEEP. Also inside this issue is my story on rafting the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in the far reaches of Northern Alaska. Beyond the relentless hum of mosquitoes, I can still hear the dull thud of oil drilling carrying across the coastal plain and the frigid Arctic Ocean.

PHOTO: TRUMAN BOREN

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

It’s not all doom and gloom out there. There are many fantastic conservation projects taking place here at home and around the globe. Obviously there’s a need for this to protect the last of the planet’s wild places. Keep that in mind wherever you tread, and keep your impact at a minimum.

WHO’S ON BOARD? Christian Beamish

Christian Beamish, author of The Voyage of the Cormorant—the account of his solo surfing expedition down the Pacific coast of Baja California by sail and oar in the 18-foot Shetland Isle beach boat he built—is a surfer, surfboard shaper, and writer. He now lives in Carpinteria with his wife and 2-year-old daughter. “Alaska is epic,” he says, “but surfing with gloves is more of a learning curve than you might think!”

Writer + Photographer

Between her Funk Zone art gallery, passion for public murals, and degree in digital media, Katie McLean loves to create concoctions of all kinds, especially massive messes of health in the kitchen. When this Santa Barbarian’s not sliding in the sea, you’ll find her working at a local yoga studio, meandering trails in the mountains, or indulging in her wanderlust with Roxy Outdoor Fitness and Project Save Our Surf.

Instagram: GypsyEye805

Chris Papaleo

Photographer + Videographer + Writer Between his enthusiasm for filming and producing web edits starring best friend Nick Rozsa you’re most likely to find Papaleo exploring the road of an entrepreneur constantly expanding his businessSaltyBeards.com, a video blog turned online surf apparel store that donates a percentage of sales towards clothing and feeding the local homeless in their community. Instagram: Chris_Papaleo

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

Chuck Graham

Katie McLean Writer

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Enjoy.

Scott Smith

Photographer

Scott Smith has lived throughout Southern California over the past 12 years, earning a bachelor's degree in visual arts from Cal State San Marcos and studying photography at Santa Monica College. Smith’s photographic endeavors sent him on a year-long trip around the world, visiting 10 countries and shooting images on black and white film with the idea of developing, printing, and creating hand made pieces of art. Smith can be found not far from the ocean in Orcutt.

SURF SHOP

SURFSHOP

446 E MAIN STREET VENTURA, CA

WHO WE ARE

You could say that WetSand started in the 1970’s as a result of the early days of surfing the coast of Santa Barbara, riding Wilderness and Yater surfboards and taking occasional beer breaks.

surfshop.com

Almost 30 years later, WetSand was born as a surf forecast and online shop and soon grew to one of the largest surf sites. Known for presenting surfing like it should be, grounded in the culture that makes sense to most of us; surf travel, creativity, experimentation and respecting the ocean experience.

SURFSHOP.COM

Our brick and mortar store opened in 2007 in Ventura: “the largest small town in California”. Wetsand is a small business is built on family and friends who work to bring what we feel is important to surfing and the lifestyle around us. We are inspired daily by the ocean, surf and non-surf lifestyle, art, fashion and vintage culture surrounding us.

W H AT W E A R E

WSURF.COM Art, photography, video, surf culture, fashion and everyday inspiration.

LAT360.COM The new generation of our original WetSand Swellwatch surf forecast

SHOPWETSAND.COM Our online store

PHOTO: WHITNEY TURNER

NEWS

ASPUPDATE

Another Day at the Office

J

ust before his 42nd birthday, 11-time ASP World Champ Kelly Slater went to work again at the 5-Star Volcom Pipe Pro, picking up where he left off after a resounding victory at last year’s Billabong Pipe Masters, the last ASP event for 2013. Obviously Slater doesn’t need the points to qualify, but he couldn’t pass up perfect, heaving 8- to 10-foot Pipe barrels for the first ASP tour event in 2014. A nice tune up before embarking on his 24th year on the World Championship Tour (WCT). The Volcom Pipe Pro was Slater’s 66th world tour victory. He is committed to the first event of the WCT at Snapper Rocks, but beyond that Slater is taking a wait and see approach for the rest of 2014.

Two other local standouts faired decently at Pipe. Both Cory Arrambide and Conner Coffin advanced to the quarterfinals. Each finished with an =13th.

PHOTO: BIELMANN/VOLCOM

BY CHUCK GRAHAM

Tuning up for 2014?

Locals Take Top SIMA Awards

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PHOTOS: BRENT HILLEMAN

Channel Islands crew stoked on life.

SAT 01

9:03am 6.03 3:36pm -0.84

SUN 02

MON 03

9:49 5:61 10:35 5.02 4:13 -0.41 4:49 0.14

TUE 04

WED 05

THU 06

FRI 07

SAT 08

11:26 4.33 5:25 0.75

12:22 3.63 6:02 1.37

7:34 0.79 1:39 3.05

9:03 0.93 3:38 2.8

10:37 0.83 5:36 2.98

MARCH 2014 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

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he annual Surf Industry Manufacturers Association (SIMA) awards took place on February 13th at the City National Grove of Anaheim. The SIMA Image Awards celebrate outstanding innovations and contributions to the surf industry.

For the sixth year in a row, Channel Islands Surfboards won the Surfboard of the Year with their Patagonia named top Environmental Product of the Year.

New Flyer model. The New Flyer is made with a unidirectional carbon strip that stiffens the middle of the board, increases flex and bend in the tail, and gives you a tighter turn radius.

Patagonia earned the Environmental Product of the Year award for their R2 Yulex Wetsuit. Made with their revolutionary Yulex biorubber, the torso and thighs are also lined with a micro-grid recycled polyester thermal lining, and it's externally lined with water-resistant recycled polyester jersey.

Parker Coffin got in the mix as well, presenting the Footwear Product of the Year.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

SUN 09 MON 10

5:03 4.25 12:47 0.57

6:12 4.4 1:34 0.32

TUE 11

WED 12

THU 13

FRI 14

SAT 15

7:05 4.62 2:11 0.13

7:46 4.82 2:40 0.01

8:21 4.97 3:06 -0.04

8:55 5.04 3:31 -0.02

9:27 5.02 3:55 0.06

WSURF.COM TIDE CHART

PHOTO: KAMIL KONRAD

PHOTO: BRYCE BERGAN

RIP Robert Heeley

December 16, 1970 - January 26, 2014

Wine, Waves & Beyond

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Agenda Long Beach

he fifth annual Wine, Waves & Beyond, and Central Coast Longboard Surf Classic, returns April 30 through May 4 to San Luis Obispo County.

The four-day event includes a surf movie night, Rabobank’s Barrelto-Barrel grand tasting, Hops and Hogs Throwdown, Central Coast longboard surf contest, and the 805 Classic barbecue featuring the Firestone Walker Brewing Company and Vintage VW Display. Proceeds from Wine, Waves & Beyond are donated to the Association of Amputee Surfers.

A special challenged athletes division is one of the highlights of the longboard surf contest on Sunday, May 4, at the Pismo Beach Pier. It also features a women's and men’s division, and the crowd favorite winemakers/ brew masters heat.

Surf movie night is Wednesday, April 30, at 6:30 p.m. Taylor Steele’s “Missing,” featuring ASP World Champion Mick Fanning, John John Florence, Jordy Smith, Matt Wilkinson and Tom Curren, will be shown at the historic Fremont Theater in San Luis Obispo.

The Barrel-to-Barrel grand tasting is Friday, May 2, from 5 to 8 p.m. at the Cliffs Resort in Pismo Beach. You can sample from over 35 wineries and breweries, cuisine samplings from local restaurants, and live music.

The 805 Classic and VW Display takes place on Sunday, May 4. The 805 Classic is from noon to 5 p.m. and will have live music, barbecue and Firestone Walker Brewing Co. The VW car display is from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. right alongside the surf contest.

For more information visit www.winewavesandbeyond.com.

SUN 16 MON 17

9:59am 4.9 4:19pm 0.22

10:33 4.68 4:43 0.46

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magine a 200,000-square foot mall filled with only surf and skate shops, intermingled with the industry leading street and swimwear providers. The food court has about a dozen of Los Angeles’ top food trucks parked in it. Sounds pretty sweet, right? Unfortunately, unless you are a buyer or own your own shop, you’re probably not getting in the front door.Early this January, the Agenda Trade Show kicked off its 2014 season in Long Beach. At its first stop on a six-show circuit, Agenda Long Beach featured over 600 of the action sports industries top brands. Everyone from small garage brands about to break out, to some of the industry titans graced the exhibit hall floor. It was a great opportunity for DEEP to catch up with old friends and meet some new ones. Looking forward to their return to Long Beach, July 10th and 11th next year. - Dan Terry

TUE 18

WED 19

THU 20

FRI 21

SAT 22

11:09 4.36 5:09 0.76

11:50 3.97 5:36 1.11

12:39 3.51 6:07 1.51

7:37 0.5 6:46 1.92

8:54 0.57 3:26 2.83

WETSAND SURF SHOP

PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET

SUN 23 MON 24

10:24 0.46 5:21 2.99

11:43 0.16 6:31 3.4

TUE 25

WED 26

THU 27

FRI 28

SAT 29

SUN 30

12:43 -0.18 7:15 3.89

6:33 5.02 1:32 -0.44

7:31 5.29 2:14 -0.56

8:23 5:43 2:52 -0.54

9:11 5.4 3:29 -0.36

9:56 5.2 4:04 -0.06

446 Main Street, Ventura

Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

MARCH 2014 Tide Chart Ventura, CA DEEPZINE.com

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Pro division champion Kellen Ellison.

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

2014 RINCON CLASSIC RESULTS

The Blessed Queen Kellen Ellison

Crowned Rincon Classic 2014 Champ

Demi Boelsterli

Wins 10th Straight Women’s Title

BY GLENN DUBOCK

T

he muffled sound of wax being hastily rubbed onto the deck of a surfboard in the Rincon parking lot greeted me as I swung open the door to my car in the pre-dawn hours on Saturday, Jan. 18. It was the first possible date for the 2014 Channel Islands Rincon Classic presented by Hurley to be called on by veteran director Chris Keet.

Stumbling up the cobblestone point to the competition area in the first rays of daylight, I didn’t see a contestable wave the whole way—but I had faith in Keet and his string of undeniable luck when it comes to pulling off this time-honored gathering of the local surf tribe.

Right on cue, the Gremlins division hit the water for their first heat and the surf started to build, while the sun started to bake the spectators. Brighter than the beam of sunshine drawing a direct golden line to the announcer’s podium, I could see a smile on Keet’s face that wouldn’t stop until the last award was handed out on Sunday night.

“We are blessed, we are SO blessed”, said Keet as he surveyed the wavescape that was unfolding before the flock of wave riders that were about to live the dream that only the emerald Rincon walls of water can supply.

In the Gremlins Division, Jabe Swierkocki of Ventura lit up the place with solid surfing from such a young boy.

His gouging cutbacks were noticed and rewarded with a clearly justified first place by the judges. Not too far behind was Dimitri Poulos who also ripped into some clean turns.

Over in the Boys Division, all eyes were on the battle between aerial artist Eithan Osborne and 2013 winner

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

RESULTS PROS

1. Kellen Ellison 2. Kilian Garland 3. Dane Reynolds 4. Cory Arrambide

MENS

1. Matt Maheri 2. Michael Lonson 3. Spencer Smith 4. Dennis Rizzo 5. Gabe Venturelli 6. Brandon Smith

WOMENS

1. Demi Boelsterli 2. Sierra Partridge 3. Nicole De Leon 4. Abby Brown 5. Lisa Wynn Luna 6. Hailey Partridge

BOYS (12-14)

1. Eithan Osborne 2. Josiah Amico 3. Jeff Knell 4. Adam Hogue 5. Erik Smith 6. Greg Venable

GREMLINS (11u) GRANDMASTERS

1. Jabe Swierkocki 2. Dimitri Poulos 3. Pitas Higgins 4. Gavin Eason 5. Shaymus O’Hearn 6. Liam Osborne

WAHINE (17u)

1. Abby Brown 2. Cassidy Urbany 3. Poppy Brittingham 4. Zoey Luna 5. Alana Moore 6. Devon Randolph

JUNIORS (15-17) LONGBOARD

1. Bronson Wheelen 2. Vinny Leonelli 3. Curren Caples 4. Eric Ronning 5. Jason Knell 6. Jeff Knell

MASTERS

1. Ian O'Neill 2. Gabe Venturelli 3. Aaron Smith 4. Dan Dowden 5. Erik Smith 6. Greg Venable

1. Evan Trauntvein 2. Cole Robbins 3. Clint Unander 4. Brian Hewitt 5. Dave Johnson 6. Daniel Bralver

1. Tony Degroot 2. James McClintock 3. Alexis Usher 4. Steve Reichal 5. Bryan Gragg 6. Fred Hepp

LEGENDS

1. Steve McComb 2. Dave Johnson 3. Bill Urbany 4. Jim Garland 5. Wayne Rich 6. L. Paul Mann

JEFF WHITE ALOHA AWARD

Davey Smith

Eithan Osborne, Boys division winner.

PHOTOS: DUBOCK.COM

Demi Boelsterli, 10x Women's champion.

True locals.

PHOTO: BRANDEN AROYAN

DEEPZINE.com

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Josiah Amico. Busting moves like his hero Dane Reynolds, Osborne let it be known that he was totally focused on taking home the trophy this year.

Josiah gave Eithan plenty to look at but in the end, it would be Osborne holding the prize by putting on a power display unmatched in his talented division.

Conditions for the Wahine Finals were near perfect. It was Zoey Luna’s birthday, and she gave herself a wonderful present by wrapping herself around some backlit beauties that were winding down the point. Abby Brown took the win for the second time in two years, cracking some of those famous paper-thin lips that Rincon pitches out when the tide goes low.

The Women's group should probably be called the Demi Division. The level of surfing is superb throughout, but Boelsterli just plain owns it by surfing with a passion for precision combined with reckless perfection. Ten times in a row she has walked off with the win!

Sierra Partridge and the rest of the group put up a good fight, but Boelsterli dominated.

The only thing that could distract the crowd from Demi was when Brown rode a wave with dolphins that went viral in the media worldwide. Fighting a fever, Brown dug deep to surf in a stacked final and experienced a moment that she will cherish for the rest of her life.

Matt Maheri ripped his way into first place in the Men’s Division, as did Bronson Wheelan in

PHOTOS: BILL TOVER

2014 RINCON CLASSIC RESULTS

Bronson Wheeler, Juniors champion.

Ian O'Neill, Masters champion.

PHOTO: AROYAN

The Rincon Classic drew record crowds at this year's event.

PHOTO: ALESSANDRO MORALES

Men's champion, Matt Maheri.

Tony DeGroot, back-to-back Grandmasters winner.

Longboard winner, Evan Trautvein.

PHOTO: AROYAN

PHOTO: MORALES

DEEPZINE.com

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PHOTO: TOVER

2014 RINCON CLASSIC RESULTS

PHOTO: EVAN CONWAY

Pro division finalist Dane Reynolds.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

PHOTO: TOVER

Gabe Venturelli was on the podium twice.

Second place in Masters, and fifth in Mens.

Jabe Swierkocki, Gremlins winner.

Pro division finalist Kilian Garland.

PHOTO: AROYAN

the Juniors. Bronson snapped a huge air reverse, which had the crowd on the beach going bonkers.

Tony DeGroot took home his second consecutive win in the Grandmasters division by showing the skills he has acquired over years of working the long walls of Rincon.

The Masters were amazing to watch. Ian O’Neill put on a clinic on how to ride backside with speed and style while Gabe Venturelli and last years’ winner Aaron Smith did some stellar moves.

Cole Robbins, a perennial winner, just couldn’t fight off Evan Trauntvein and his relentless ability to perch on the nose of his longboard in perfect balance. Robbins is a world-class rider but Trauntvein took the win this time.

Steve McComb took the honors in the Legends Division by using every trick he has ever learned over the years about how to score the best waves and take the win over Dave Johnson and the rest of the veterans who have ridden Rincon so well and for so long.

By Sunday evening the swell was pumping and the crowds were amped to see the Pro Division Finals. In the fading light of a biblical sunset, the throngs on the beach got to see why Kellen Ellison, Kilian Garland, Dane Reynolds and Cory Arrambide make time in their busy schedules to show up and shred their home surf. Arrambide was on fire, Dane was doing the impossible, Garland was aiming for a seventh stance at the top of the podium but Ellison was unstoppable as he served the Queen of the Coast well by nailing the longest rides in the most critical positions while throwing his board into rail carves that defied gravity.

Yes, blessed are those who get to show the Queen their very best artistry, especially when she provides such a wonderful stage on which to perfom.

Davey Smith, the Jeff White Aloha Award recipient with contest director Chris Keet.

PHOTO: AROYAN

Abby Brown, back-to-back Wahine champion.

Steve McComb, Grand Masters champion.

Pro division finalists Cory Arrambide and Kilian Garland.

PHOTOS: TOVER PHOTOS: AROYAN

Pro division finalist Arrambide.

Ellison taking it to the bank.

PHOTO: CATERINA CALIGIURI

Naturally Supernatural

PHOTOS: JEAN-PAUL MOLYNEUX

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

It's hard to beat the feeling of biking up to check the surf.

BY DAN HAMLIN

I

remember sitting in the back of the cave with my head throbbing as the cave filled up with water.

The tidal surge had caught me with my head down as I walked along the edge of the cliff-lined shore. By the time I realized what was happening it was too late. The wall of water had thrust me to the back of a cave that formed in the cliff’s side. The only thing I could think of to do before the impending impact was call out to God for help. And that’s exactly what I did, “God, help me!” I exclaimed.

The next thing I remember after slamming my head against the back of the cave was looking

w w w. f c d s u r f b o a r d s . c o m

surf shop & surfboards :: 43 S. Olive Street :: Ventura (805) 641-9428 :: mon-fri 10am-5pm :: sat 10am-6pm :: sun 11am-5pm (hours subject to change depending on swell) PHOTO: Moncho Dapena © 2013 Fletcher Chouinard Designs, Inc.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

A full moon sets as the morning light reveals a peeling A-frame with no one in sight.

out through a 12-inch gap of air between the ceiling and the water’s surface. As panic started to grip me, I felt myself being rushed toward the opening of the cave as the tidal surge retreated. Acting purely on instinct I swam as fast as I could with the current, and just as fast as I had been swept into the cave I was swept out of the cave.

They say there is no such thing as an atheist in the impact zone. I’m not here to argue theology with anyone, but I think it’s safe to say that as surfers we’ve all experienced a power greater than ourselves. Whether it’s getting slammed into a cave or getting pounded on a day we shouldn’t have paddled out on, we’ve probably all felt at the mercy of the ocean and it’s maker at some point in our surfing lives.

Waves, winds, tides, all that is nature. But the force that sets it all in motion, that shows us how mortal we are, now that is supernatural. I think it’s astounding that we get to experience as much as we do as surfers that most of society doesn’t get to experience. I’m definitely not one to sit here and make a case for how religious or spiritual surfing is; I’m not really in that camp. I surf because it’s fun. You get to experience the beauty of nature, and quite simply, I love it. But I will say that as a result of constantly being immersed in nature, I feel like I’ve had some supernatural experiences. Or maybe I should say I’ve had certain experiences in nature that have felt like they were a glimpse into the supernatural. Sort of like looking at something through binoculars; the object that seems so far off suddenly becomes much more visible.

I guess it’s easy to find the supernatural in an experience like the one I had in the cave, when life in the natural is so close to being over. But what takes true grace is to be able to see the supernatural in something like a sunset, or a moonrise, or a dolphin surfing, or a grom stoked. These are things that we as surfers get to experience all the time; things that deserve preserving.

So do the supernatural and surfing go together? I don’t know, but it seems to me if we look just a little closer we can see glimpses of the supernatural all around us right here in nature. I’m sure a lot of people will say I’m crazy; that’s all right with me, I won’t argue that.

But I will end with this quote from Amelia Barr, one of the 19th Century’s most prolific female authors, “Whatever the scientists may say, if we take the supernatural out of life, we leave only the unnatural.”

PismoBeach ClassicCalifornia.com

LADIES ROOM

PHOTOS: GREG HUGLIN

Sustainable Vine

BY NICOLE DE LEON Baby on board.

DEEP: How long have you been surfing, and how has that propelled you into the creation of Sustainable Vine?

Bryan Hope: I bought my first surfboard in 1985. When I graduated from high school, I realized that I wasn’t going to do well with a typical 9 to 5 job. Surfing has played a big role in my choice of lifestyle and actually brought me to Santa Barbara from Northern California for college. My wife and I created Sustainable Vine Wine Tours seven years ago out of the desire to have a flexible and rewarding existence. It’s the perfect job for a surfer. I’m typically busy on weekends and during the summer when the surf is either crowded or small.

DEEP: Tell us a little bit about what you have to offer as a sustainable wine tour company.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

BH: We offer a personal wine country experience.

Either myself or my business partner, Scott Bull, conduct the tours in a comfortable nine-passenger Mercedes van.

Our goal is to give our guests a well-rounded tour of the Santa Ynez Valley, which includes winery and oftentimes vineyard tours. We hope that people take away a greater appreciation of sustainable wine making.

PHOTO BY RICK COWLEY

B

ryan Hope, local surfer and co-owner of Sustainable Vine Wine Tours in Santa Barbara, completely embodies “living green.” From using recycled and eco-friendly materials to remodeling his home to having a flourishing garden in his yard, this optimistic and resourceful local has found his creative and professional niche. As a longtime surfer, Hope has always wanted to be “lighter on the land” whether it is at work or play.

He now finds himself guiding popular local wine tours to organic and sustainable wineries including Alma Rosa, Ampelos, Demetria, and Foxen, to name a few. A humble and good-natured man inside and out of the water, Hope truly lives the life he envisioned and paves the way for giving back to our local environment.

BH: We’ve had the gamut of participants, from surfers to movie stars, and people from Saudi Arabia to Sweden.

instead of against them. Some, like Ampelos and Foxen, have implemented solar in their operations. In addition to the use of solar power, sustainable winery operations often include minimal intervention when it comes to how the wine is treated. An example would be the use of naturally existing native yeast. Of course, energy and systems efficiency are also important. Even packaging is considered.

DEEP: You and your wife are both longtime surfers. What would be a dream surf day for you two?

DEEP: How do you further incorporate “Green” living into your daily lifestyle?

BH: I’ll tell you about a real dream day … or dream night.

About four or five years ago when my wife and I were tandem surfing a lot, we went down to Rincon with our other tandem surfing friends for a full moon session. The surf was head high, the tide was low, the wind was warm and light offshore, the crowd was minimal, the moon was bright, and we maybe surfed better together that night than we ever have.

BH: In our small, efficient home we’ve installed rain catchment and grey water systems, we have a garden that provides seasonal fruits and vegetables, and I’m the ultimate scrounge of recycled building materials. But the area I try to have the most significant influence is in my daily purchases. After all, we truly vote with our dollars.

DEEP: Do you get surfers on your wine tours?

DEEP: How would you compare non-sustainable winemaking with sustainable winemaking?

BH: For sustainable wine producers there are typically differences in what happens both in the vineyard as well as in the winery. As for the vineyard, synthetic pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers, and fungicides are avoided. There is a real commitment to working with the forces of nature

DEEP: Any business or personal goals for the New Year?

BH: My business and personal goals for the New Year are tied.

To continue to have a good work/life balance, and, of course, get in the water as much as possible when it’s good.

Next time you want to get an eco-friendly wine buzz, check out Sustainable Vine at www.sustainablevine.com and lift your glasses to a Greener world.

OCEAN VIEW

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

Breath of Life WORDS + PHOTO BY DAVID PU'U

H

ave you ever sat out in the lineup early in the morning as the canyon offshores blow and wonder about the scents and flavors in the crisp flow coming down from our Coastal Mountain ranges?

I had been looking at our Northern Hemisphere watersheds as a function of a study on the affect of weather borne radiation pollution. What I learned inspired me to have a closer look at our own watershed here where I live, right next to the Ventura River, which feeds into a break I swim almost daily when shooting in the water.

We had just gotten our first dose of snow. So up highway 33 I went, on a beautiful fall afternoon. Fifty-seven miles later I was there. The top of the watershed that feeds life to the coastal plain. Because you see, water is life. We ourselves are water.

As I stood on a ridgeline high in the Los Padres Forest near Reyes Peak, I recognized the various scents I smell daily in the sea. I saw the plants that birthed those. I crunched the fresh snow underfoot while I hiked with my camera and realized this also was in that canyon breeze each day in winter. It groomed the long lines of northwest groundswell that swept ashore each season and brought so much joy to the ocean community.

Whenever we look at an action designed to affect our ecosystem, whether that be a positive or negative, we should understand that all true health and resolution is best created by affecting positively what lies furthest upstream.

Shooting this frame, I was very conscious of the beauty of fresh air and clean water.

We all do well to be informed regarding the health of our watersheds.

Out of that comes the breath of life.

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Nat Young in Malibu during the summer of 1968.

PHOTO: BRENT LIEBERMAN

COMEN SENSE

Facing the Future

BY CRAIG COMEN

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

H

ow we face the future is not dependent on what board we ride or what line we take on a wave. It will have an effect on how we manage our daily lives.

I am proud to be the son of parents who cared and tried and fought for what they thought was right. Back in the 1960s, I was joining them on peace marches, listening to NPR and talking nightly around the dinner table about current issues, feelings, thoughts and ways to make a difference.

All you lucky ones in Malibu should bow down to my mom and her best friend Nina who fought hard to keep a nuclear reactor from being built in your backyard. You are fortunate, but now with the lurking factor of Fukushima and a radioactive ocean that does not stop circulating, we need to be aware and thinking clearly about what we are allowing or making others do in their backyards?

Forget cars, change the workday to four hours, and the work week to four days. Go to sleep at sundown, wake up at sunrise, make your own clothes, and grow your own food.

Sound like change? Yes, radical change. That is what is going to be necessary in each of us if we want to unplug and sing songs and tell stories that will carry across generations and help our children’s children savor a planet that thrives and supports all life.

As I watched the movie Gravity the other day, what struck me most were the images of our planet from space. Whoa! What an amazing thing we have in this life and on this living, breathing thing called Earth. Let’s not blow it.

As stewards of the sea, we all need to be part of huge change, starting nonprofits, joining others and getting involved in more than the large corporation hamster wheel and myths about consuming and being.

Until electric vehicles, solar panels and other means of sustainable living become affordable to the masses, we will need to improvise and let go of certain habits. It will not come easy, but the benefits will be countless. Surfing and paddling, music and art, all forms of free self expression will be just as important, as these are ways out of the mainstream and all send positive messages for the environment for all to wake up to and join in a new way of life.

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team rider : Alanna Moore Rincon Round Pin

Sw eet s l Water e n Run About 160 miles to go before the Arctic Ocean.

W O R D S + P H OTO S BY C H U C K G R A H A M Caribou on the coastal plain.

I

t was arguably the sweetest tasting water that has ever quenched my thirst.

Myself, and three others were rafting down the Upper Marsh Fork below the North Slope of the Brooks Range in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) in Northern Alaska. Despite the chilly Arctic air, after 30 miles of paddling downriver against an icy headwind, I was thirsty. We made a pit stop inside a smooth swirling eddy where I dropped my empty water bottle into the river, filled it and guzzled.

I never treat the water when I’m in the high Eastern Sierra. It tastes better than anything bottled at home or anywhere else for that matter. That was until I reached the roadless expanse of the ANWR. Imagine if you could drink the water flowing out of our local creeks and rivers without a second thought? More than likely that will never happen. High population densities coupled with irresponsibility, the uneducated and the uncaring equates to polluted waters that eventually feed our oceans—the world’s personal toilet.

Eight years ago ocean explorer and environmentalist Jean-Michel Cousteau told me that “the oceans begin in the mountains.” It’s one of those hard-hitting statements that has stayed with me ever since, kind of like the swarms of mosquitoes we endured for two weeks in the ANWR, North America’s largest wildlife refuge. That river water was essential for washing down an unknown number of Alaska’s state bird.

We weren’t the only ones reaping the freezing yet refreshing rivers. For herds of caribou, shaggy musk oxen, methodical moose, majestic dall sheep, voracious grizzly bears, roaming wolves, pesky Arctic terns and long-tailed ducks, the rivers in the refuge are the lifeline for the mega fauna in this untouched wilderness.

After rafting, and portaging, 160 miles down the Upper Marsh Fork, converging with the Canning River, then the Staines River and eventually the Arctic Ocean, I was still enjoying the sweet-tasting waters in the refuge. The Staines River ran out somewhere near the Arctic Ocean and the vast coastal plain. We were camped where the river ended and still we were

drinking the river water so close to the ocean.

From there it was a tough 3-mile hike across uneven, spongy, soggy tundra to the Arctic Ocean. A polar bear had been spotted four days prior by a seabird biologist for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service a few miles up the Staines River feeding on a carcass we smelled as we paddled by it. From afar I sort of hoped for a glimpse of the apex predator as I followed its massive detailed paw prints across the beach of a lonely and desolate barrier island, a sort of buffer separating the coastal plain and the frigid ocean.

Instead, all I got was an earful from a nosey Arctic ground squirrel and a honking tundra swan. As I walked along the beach, small islands of ice floes cracked and splintered as they floated by. I reveled in the fact that there was no trash amongst the graveyard of bleached driftwood and skeletal remains of caribou and migrating seabirds.

An Arctic fox scurried across the barrier island paying me no mind at all as it scavenged the beach. The Arctic was void of any clouds, but unfortunately the horizon couldn’t have been less clear. Although a bit hazy, I could make out oil drilling sites at Point Thomson through my frosty binoculars. About 30 miles west of the refuge and piercing the Beaufort Sea, drill sites probed the coast. Even more disturbing than the sight of those towering cranes was the faint drum generated by those drill sites carrying across the coastal plain by a perpetually stiff Arctic breeze. Suddenly this wilderness experience had been somewhat violated.

I hate being pessimistic about the last of our wild places, but it might be only a matter of time before the ANWR falls like so many other wild places. I recall reading something like 80-billion barrels of oil could potentially be had in the refuge. I trudged back to my tent a little solemn. I was nearly out of water and getting thirsty.

Arctic shores.

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A LOOK AT

NUCLEAR POLLUTION THREATS TO THE OCEANS

Long and long has the grass been growing.

Long and long has the rain been falling.

Long has the Globe been rolling around.

“Song of Exposition” By Walt Whitman

W O R D S + P H O T O S B Y D AV I D P U ' U

I

began to study aspects of the disaster at Fukushima-Daiichi the moment the Tohoku quake occurred. The disaster didn’t begin on March 11, 2011, as common knowledge would have us believe, but during the throes of the Cold War in the late 1950s. Some aspects of it actually date back to the turn of the century.

After watching the tsunami wash ashore with some of my colleagues from K38 Rescue—we were online simultaneously and saw the quake take place on the United States Geological Survey event reporting site—I knew the long range repercussions would be nuclear in nature. At the time however, I had no idea regarding the education I would acquire in the next several years.

Shortly after the initial disaster, I found myself at the home of my friend George Orbelian, the head of the San Francisco Global Trade Council and Project Kaisei (an ocean cleanup initiative of Ocean Voyages Institute, a nonprofit organization based in San Francisco). Orbelian sat me down in his living room on a warm sunny afternoon in San Francisco, high above the surf at Ocean Beach, looked me in the eyes and said, “David, what are we going to do about Fukushima?”

My first response was to laugh, and I said, “George, what in the heck do you mean? What can we do?” The implausibility of two guys even being able to grasp the enormity of what we knew then would likely be the largest disaster of its type in history, and it hit me square in the chest.

“There is a man in our group who is an engineer. He worked for General Electric in the design and implementation of the plant (as well as) the nuclear program in Japan. He understands it well. We can start there,” said Orbelian.

So we did, and after immersion in the programs of Blue Mind, Arup, The Sea Space-Initiative, Blue Ocean Sciences, Triiibes and countless

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

One must be willing to climb higher in order to see farther.

Only then will he be able to think better than those who passed this way prior.

The now mothballed San Onofre Nuclear Electric Power generation station.

I always disagreed with the logic and saw the irony in putting a potential large scale nuclear disaster right next door to Camp Pendleton, a key military base for the US. One of my favorite riddles is about what nuclear plants produce. They produce Du, depleted uranium , which is used in Du rounds and missile warheads for its density and superior penetrating power. When you see the US use these weapons it is employing a philosophy called Iron Imperialism. It destroys the civil populace within a war zone. Du rounds contaminate the ecosystems and have a long term adverse affect on the civil populace.

NUCLEAR POLLUTION THREATS

Common Dolphins: Cetaceans are at the top of the food chain.

Again the irony of the disaster at Fukushima Daiichi is that it has a very high probability of having irreversibly contaminated the dolphin population off Japan which already had very high levels of heavy metal prior to the massive dose which continues to this day, and will end the annual slaughter at Taiji, which many ocean goers find reprehensible due to the animals intellect and cultural resonance for people.

conversations, studies and analyzation, I came to very specific conclusions regarding the nuclear meltdowns at Fukushima-Daiichi.

Recently, there has been a ramping up of public interest regarding potential health effects. The level of white noise regarding the disaster has become both confusing and deafening.

Something occurred the other day that made me pause and consider what to write here. It was a query sent by a double PhD at Lockheed-Martin who was part of my father’s network.

If a double PhD in defense has to ask ... That said a lot to me about the general public’s understanding. We really do need to “get this.”

The query was: “Are we experiencing a worldwide increase in radiation?” and “Is the United States Government (USG) stockpiling Potassium Iodine?”

MY RESPONSE: Well, here is the rub. At day 78 post tsunami, formerly open sources of information were cloistered or entirely shut down—as reported by Eddie Leung, CEO of Secure Environment and former GE engineer involved in the Fukushima Plant’s deployment.

At this time the USG also raised the standard for radiant contaminant (a heavy metal) in tuna (and other fisheries products) from 100 Bq per sample to 1000 Bq—a Bq is the activity of a quantity of radioactive material in which one nucleus decays per second.

What we were seeing was an active engaging of plausible deniability by both complicit parties, the US and Japan, in order to secure the nuclear industry and maintain National Security for both population bases.

We all knew what was coming.

Six months ago a lead engineer of a firm, endeavored to replicate online research, which we had acquired in the course of our two-plus years of development of testing and remediation devices and protocols for persistent inorganic radiant heavy metal compounds. He was unable to do so. The data had been buried by GIGO seeding of the internet. (Garbage In Garbage Out) So to answer your question(s) “yes,” to an extent, and “probably.”

Now here is another rub. Within months of the event, high radiation levels were detected in milk at dairies in Hawaii and the Continental US. This is why.

In an event of this type, contaminant is released as a gas in several isotopes (Iodides most notably) that is an uptake into the Jetstream borne weather systems that carry the contamination.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

There was reporting on the down low of contamination laced weather events. You may have heard of the recent lawsuit by Navy Carrier staff against Tepco.

Iodides in heavy direct concentration bind to the thyroid and wipe it out. In low slow doses the effect is quite different. Cancer develops. So are stockpiles of Potassium Iodide being acquired?

Maybe. But we know this. Post event, all stores of the “medication” disappeared.

There are several explanations for that, most of which are related to inventory procedures based on supply and demand.

One of the researchers in our group, who works in marine biology and neuroscience reposted this into our global Network.

Understanding Fukushima-Daichi (www.oceanloverscollective.com/understanding-fukushima-daiichi/) I also suggest watching this film, The Atomic States of America.

At both Sea Space Summits we studied remediation of threats to the commons. This event was identified as the second largest threat, right behind asteroid strike. But it is not the single event itself that is of paramount concern; it is the cumulative effect that would arise via successive events of this sort, were they to occur.

But are we under threat to health here on the West Coast? Why yes, but not in an immediate and dire fashion.

This is why. That is not how it works.

In the marine ecosystem, at various levels and depths exist microbial communities. We know that these various microbial communities feed on persistent inorganic heavy metal pollutants (radiation pollution).

Here is a key piece of info. These contaminants persist (remain unchanged) to the degree of their half-life. They do not dilute like other pollutants do (reduce

to carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus and sulphur).

What that means is that the pollutant volume is being biosequestered (spread out in life forms) and it is subject to uptake within the biosphere, and it becomes biomagnified higher up the chain. That is to say, you will find greater concentrations in certain life forms that may be things we rely on to sustain life like food sources.

Some of these food sources, like the Pacific Bluefin Tuna, are notorious for having exhibited biomagnification of heavy metal contaminants prior. You can

Western Grebe Fort Bragg, Ca. Seabirds are the first to exhibit reproductive issues from heavy metal contaminants which have a potential to decrease infant survival rates from decreased egg strength and more.

A brilliant sunset through fog on the Marin Headlands symbolizes the most powerful radiation source in our Universe.

Healthy Seastars, Ventura Coast.

In 2013 Wasting syndrome and several other alarming marine animal maladies were identified as occurring along the North American coastline. All have historic precedent. But have they all occurred at once before, in this manner?

The research jury is out on this one. Is it related to an increase in heavy metal contaminant?

Possibly yes, or no.

Local fishermen pulling traps.

Long as the world has existed hunter gatherers fed tribes and created culture. The ocean is an integral part of our food security and supply.

Crystal clear water and skies.

Our local coast is an integral part of the life of a Continent, but as ocean people we take her care and safe keeping very personally. She is our life.

NUCLEAR POLLUTION THREATS learn more about that by watching the documentary “Sushi to the Slaughter” which was released just prior to the Tohoku quake and Tsunami event.

Now what does that radiant contaminant do when it is taken in by you?

Depends on a lot of things. But to understand the ramifications, one needs to know what the hot particulate does and how it can affect us. This occurs at a molecular level as mitosis occurs and cells undergo diplosis, when-where the radiation can create anomalies in the DNA of the new cells being formed. This can lead to maladies, including various forms of cancer. Dosage and genetics have much to do with the actual results of contamination.

The thing to recognize is that it is a numbers game, sort of like the lottery.

Will you win/lose it? Probably not. Could you? Of course. And the more times you play, the greater the likelihood of those anomalies creating something harmful.

There is an axiom in toxicology and in pollution control, which roughly states this: “Pollution is resolved through dilution.” It works for many things, actually. Just not for radiant

contaminant, which persists, but gets spread out, degrading the health of the planet potentially, depending on volume of contamination being seeded.

Fukushima has injected a higher volume over a longer period of time than any nuclear event prior. Physicist Michio Kaku talks a bit about that in this online video, www.youtube.com/ watch?v=01bzU4Pjf-I. Pollution is quite simple to understand, as is its control. But first, one needs to get what pollution really is—a resource out of place.

So take all of the fear based stuff you see online with a grain of (iodized) salt.

Then begin to educate yourself about the world around you.

We have everything to gain by evolving through this horrible event, and much to lose if we fail to understand the reasons it occurred, and why this should never have been allowed to be positioned by our embedded systems in industry and government.

To think we can use the ocean as a nuclear sewer and not suffer consequences to our food security and the health of future generations is illogical and imprudent, to say the least.

Peace message.

When my friends and colleagues in Japan talk of the horror of this disaster at Fukushima, they start out with an abject apology for what their country has done.

My response is always the same. “It really all began with my own country. The US is really to blame for this. But really, we are all in this together. We must save Japan.

Because in so doing we here in America, save ourselves.”

Knowing your ocean is really the best thing one can do, in spite of all that white noise about pending nuclear death.

Experiencing the sea daily is still a reasonable decision.

Here is an informative little video piece produced by one of my resources: Fairewinds’ Arnie Gundersen, www.vimeo.com/83717604.

Story excerpted from the upcoming book “From Red to Black Ball”

by David Pu’u, from correspondence and various online resources, available on request.

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A turtle at rest, Kona Coast. In 1996 Marine Biologist tagged a young female loggerhead turtle named Adelitha and released her off the coast of Mexico. She made it to the nesting grounds of the shores of Japan. What this did was prove the circulatory migration pattern of that species and many others and illustrate “Connection through the Commons�.

Former head of the Ca State Lifeguards, Jim Birdsoul holds a 100-pound Yellowfin Tuna caught off Kona, Hawaii.

Tuna which are at the top of the food chain are notorious for biosequestering of heavy metals. Last year Jean Michel Cousteau and I were talking about the Nuclear disaster and how it potentially could save the endangered Bluefin Tuna by making it unfit for human consumption. But the acceptable contamination level was altered by the USG and raised.

Kona Coast dive.

When the Apollo astronauts looked back on Earth from space it appeared as a blue marble hanging in the firmament. When we as an ocean people, look back on the land, our perspective is equally as: grand, valuable and related. Sea and space, they do connect in many ways.

A bountiful meal of clams and oysters.

Filter feeders are lower in the food chain and some of the first to acquire uptake of contaminants within an impacted marine or estuarial ecosystem.

DEEPZINE.com

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REFLECTIONS WORDS + PHOTO BY BRENT LIEBERMAN

Long-time photographer Brent Lieberman takes a long look back at the 1960s and '70s along the Central and South Coasts during the days before leashes arrived and those dreaded cell phones too.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

Huge Winter 1973 In Summer of 1973, Julie and I decided to pack up our few belongings and bid adios to the Dogtown Ghetto. The pollution, crowds, drug abuse, high rent and fast pace of life were really starting to get to us. For a couple of years, we had been venturing “up north” to visit our friends who had settled up there in a small town with three traffic lights, four policemen, no pollution, no crowds, no fast pace of life and was near two amazing beaches to surf!

It was like we died and went to heaven. In Dogtown, we were paying $175 per month for a one-bedroom, 75-year-old dilapidated studio. Our new residence was a three bedroom, eight-year-old house with a detached garage in the best part of town. All our friends who lived there thought we were stupid for paying such high rent, which was $125 per month. They all lived in the old part of town and were paying around $60 to $90 per month, some including utilities!

We were so far north that I truly felt like we were living in Alaska. The winters were so bitter-cold and stormy. I had never witnessed harsh weather living in Los Angeles. The harsher conditions came with some of the largest most consistent swells I had witnessed. We wore wool beanies and Vasque hiking boots and carried our gear in Army-issued backpacks. The first year all I did was surf and shoot, and I kept track of the conditions on my calendar. I went to the beach 268 times that year and quickly fit in with the “Boys.”

Until my arrival, they hadn’t had a photographer in their crew. The local surf crew consisted of about a dozen core surfers, and I was the only photographer around for a hundred miles. We had so many slide shows that turned into debauchery, more than I care to admit!

This particular image was made during that first winter of 1973/74. My friend and surfing compadre Mike Bakkun and I decided to go check out what according to the television news was a huge Aleutian storm heading our direction. We headed due west from town and were shocked at what we saw upon arriving at the coast. The sets appeared to be about 20- to 30-foot and looked like Banzai Pipeline on steroids! It was truly a sight to behold. Bear in mind that this wave is breaking probably close to a mile out! This is one of only about a dozen surviving photographs that I made that day. My first winter started off with a doozie!

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

stage

PHOTO: SCOTT SMITH

Jonathan Strader heads south on a glassy green expressway.

SWELL 2014

A Blind Date

With Destiny W O R D S + P H O TO S B Y G L E N N D U B O C K

Bird's eye view of Ventura Point.

The way I figure it, surf prediction is a lot like a blind date. The waves are never what your friends make them out to be, almost always shorter than advertised, but it has been a long dry stretch so you are going to work with whatever shows up.

Those alluring deep purple blobs on the computer generated swell map are thousands of nautical miles from our beaches. Oh they look so impressive at that distance but they need to squeeze through the narrow confines of our swell window, sneak past the guardian offshore islands and hop over the underwater obstacle shelves and reefs before they land on our doorstep. So much of their stature and symmetry can be distorted or tainted by the time we get that all important first impression.

The run of immaculate surf that graced our shores from the day after the Rincon

Passing through the Rincon enclave.

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SWELL 2014

Conner Coffin warming up for the ASP Prime events.

Foam ball pushing towards the Venutura Pier.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

Classic ended until we could no longer water dance with her will go down as one of the true beauties of all time. I wouldn’t call it the biggest I’ve ever seen around here, but I dare to compare the consistent machine-like quality with anything that has come before it.

Day after day of pumping swell had our legendary point breaks looking like dreamscape paintings hung on gallery walls. Long dormant reef breaks had surfers hunting garage rafters for dusty gun shapes only

used for solitary paddles out to dark blue peaks.

I spoke to salt-crusted wave riders that were on the back end of 9-hour sessions with no intention of stopping. The gross productivity of our region took a huge hit when office hours were posted as, “until further notice we will only be open from 8 a.m. until the surf is 8 feet.”

For now, we are surf saturated—but the nice thing about waves and blind dates, there are always more on the way.

Ryan Moore bottoming below sea level.

SWELL 2014 Lakey Peterson showing the form that has her on the ASP women's elite tour.

Another aerial view of long lines pushing into fairgrounds and C-Street.

High lining it towards the pier.

Curtain call.

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TRAVEL: ALASKA

“Where the Sea Breaks its Back” — Surfing by trawler in Alaska

W O R D S B Y C H R I S T I A N B E A M I S H / P H OTO S B Y C H R I S B U R K A R D

“

W

here the Sea Breaks its Back” is a book by Corey Ford about the 1741 - 1742 Russian Alaska Expedition with naturalist Georg Wilhelm Steller and explorer Vitus Bearing aboard the brig Saint Peter. A tale of shipwreck and disaster, it is the complete opposite of the experience our small crew had last summer, but makes for a hell of a title. Still —even at the height of June, motoring out the Cook Inlet from the town of Homer aboard the 58-foot trawler Milo under bright, sunny skies — it was easy to imagine the winds that could blow through this long, wide and mountain-lined body of water. Far in the distance, maybe 50-miles off the starboard bow, the snowcapped cone of Mt. Redoubt stood looking its part of frozen storm catcher, poised to funnel them in. Closer in, just a mile off the port rail, lower mountains held snow in patches along their ridges. The sea was greeny-blue, pleasant looking under six knots of wind with sun-sparkling the ripples, but the vastness of the place and thoughts of the massive tide runs here, made it feel as though we were on a pass which the conditions could revoke at any time.

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There were plenty of people around on land — new cars on the highway, hotels and restaurants of the type you get in the lower 48 — but once clear of the harbor, we began to realize the vastness of Alaska. Our captain, Mike McCunne, and Scott and Stephanie Dickerson, both surfers, were showing the Kenai Peninsula to me and fellow charter passengers Chris and Keith Malloy, photographer Chris Burkard, and two surfers from San Diego.

After six hours, we reached the open ocean and turned to run down-coast. A sizable south swell was forecast, and in the evening light of 11 p.m. in summer in Alaska, we approached a steep, rocky island that sat a few miles off the shrouded coast of coves and thick forest. “That can be a good left over there,” the captain told us, pointing to a cobblestone beach at the corner of the island. A strong surge pushed in, hugging the shore and almost doing it, but the tide seemed too high for the waves to break properly. Along the next side of the island, McCunne pointed out a right reef, and idling mid-channel, a set of deep-bellied swells rolled beneath the hull.

Scott Dickerson hoisted the inflatable over the side with Milo’s crane, and soon he,

Chris Malloy crouches low as he heads right.

A bald eagle soars above the sets.

The Malloy brothers sleep as Milo mot ors north.

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TRAVEL: ALASKA Burkard and I were off, skimming at top speed for the mainland, a mile or so away. “Put this survival suit on,” he told me before we left, which was a sobering reminder of the three to five minutes a man would last in these waters wearing regular clothes. In close, the coast felt forbidding—deep, shaggy forest looming above black basalt. The swells we felt midchannel were really showing here, crashing into the rocks with long-interval power, foam lines streaking out across the surface. A peak loomed up a few hundred yards offshore, and seemed for a minute like a mini-Maverick’s set up, but faded into the depths almost as quickly as it capped. We saw a big blast of whitewater at the far end of the run of cliffs,

and we zoomed over thinking slabs and tubes and wilderness surfing. But just like the outer peak, the waves here were only almost doing it, standing up and pitching hard just off a cave mouth, then pinching shut with nowhere to go but into the jagged house-sized boulders at the base of the cliff.

An inlet ran in from where we sat it seemed for miles, and it was tempting to follow the steep shore line around each new corner, deeper in, farther from the open sea, with the thought that well-groomed peelers were working into that summer night just a little further on. We decided to buzz across to the other side of the wide bay, where another set

The author records his experiences.

Keith Malloy goes long and far for waves and often is never disappointed.

Deep in the bay, an ice field runs back through a saddle in the mountains.

A rivermouth forms a good cobblestone bar, but the water is melted glacier ice.

Chris and Dan Malloy find time to explore some remote islands on a smaller vessel.

Beamish looking small amidst nature.

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TRAVEL: ALASKA

Chris Malloy waits as Milo taxis the crew closer to shore.

Humpback whales are a common sight along the Alaskan coast.

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The size of a wave rarely matters whe

n you're surfing unridden peaks deep

in Alaska.

The trusty Milo – a 58-foot trawler converted to surf charter vessel.

of reefs and coves opened up to the swell. Deep evening now, the sky-peach and mauve colored— reflecting off a great snow patch between higher peaks just inland, the light was low enough for the forest shore to go dark and a feeling of cold to settle over the water. Again in the distance, we saw white water churning off rock stacks extending from yet another small island. The back of a wave bending to the reef below, it looked to me like a good roller with a broad bowl section — some variation of Sunset Beach in Hawaii — not a barrel, not even a very high-performance wave, but with this south swell having traveled from the other side of the planet, that energy would translate to power down deep in the wave and it would provide speed to burn. We sat in the channel for 15 minutes, waiting for another set to materialize, but it didn’t come before the light got lower still. The Milo sat a few miles off, and instinctively, we wanted to get back to the warmth of the galley and the pot of hot water for tea that sat ready on the stove.

At 1 in the morning, when it would soon start to get light again, we hoisted the runabout back aboard and Captain McCunne motored through the night for a spot he knew of some hours yet down the coast. Before turning into the tight bunk room I could not help but stare at the dark shore, and at the swells as they ran beneath the boat, willing a surf set up out of an incoherent stretch of coast.

Far be it for me, a greenhorn from California with zero experience in Alaskan waters, to gainsay the captain and his first-mate, Scott — both of whom pioneered this coast for surfing — but I had a strong feeling that we should have stayed in that first stretch of coast to at least see it in full sunlight and through the run of tides. There were just too many set ups that were almost working, that just needed a little something to tweak them from sloppy upchucks to rock reef magic, and with this swell running too…

Days later, after some disappointing glacier-fed rivermouth surf, we made it to a long, black sand beach. Big peaks broke from one end to the other, with two headlands anchoring the stretch.

The water out here was blue and smooth, and the set up like a mountain-lined Ocean Beach in San Francisco. Chris and Keith made their way to the far south end of the beach, catching wedge-waves in front of boulders at the base of a high, sheer cliff. Taking a break and letting the warm sun bake my black suit, it was fun to watch the brothers slash and weave the thick little pockets they found. The San Diego boys and the captain were surfing the outer right up the beach and holding their own. And then, later in the day after lunch and a few refreshments on board Milo, we made the long paddle back in to the beach. The tide was pushing high and focusing the waves at the north end into long, running lefts with a proper pocket. The Malloy brothers wove clean turns all the way through, while us more work-a-day surfers skated across for the chance to make a turn. And this felt like what we’d come for — an open beach, not a soul around, and beautiful ocean waves doing their ceaseless pulse.

We motored up the coast a few miles, and McCunne and Dickerson talked between themselves about the best lineup on the rocky shore for a certain bottom fishing spot. This was a pretty good piece of seamanship in itself, as we were a couple of miles off and the coast didn’t offer any obvious markers. After a few broad circles, focusing on an inshore rockslide area, they found the spot and we were soon tying into black cod, one after the next. One of the San Diego guys caught a beautiful lingcod, about 12 pounds, all mottled greens and sharp teeth in a spring trap mouth. As we fished I said to Dickerson how much I liked the look of the first place we stopped, now a few days back.

We talked about the dark folds of the forest and the generally spooky vibe and he told me that the native Alaskans don’t go there because, “that’s where Sasquatch lives.” He made this comment straightforwardly, and I said no more about it.

I thought about this short trip, the complicated coast, the small weather windows and all the potential and remembered what Chris Malloy had said as we paddled back to the boat from surfing earlier in the day: “People will be finding waves up here for the next 100-years,” he reckoned, and I believe he was right.

DEEPZINE.com

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SHAPER'S BAY

CHANNEL ISLANDS SURFBOARDS Shaped by Al Merrick Fred Stubble 5’8" x 19" x 2

When Conner Coffin asked for all the characteristics of the Fred Rubble to be condensed in a shorter, wider package for contests in small surf; the Fred Stubble was born. Geared towards contest surfing in sub-chest high conditions, the Stubble has a wider nose and tail, reduced nose and tail rocker, single entry concave with magnified double barrel concave through the fins and vee upon exit. This board stays on rail even in flat spots, glides over reo sections, draws tight arcs in the smallest pockets, and paddles like a board 3” longer. Conner rode a Stubble to a victory in the 2013 US Open Juniors.

Available at CI Surfboards Santa Barbara 36 Anacapa St. • (805) 966-7213 www.cisurfboards.com

FCD SURFBOARDS/ PATAGONIA Shaped by Fletcher Chouinard The Mullet

5’10” x 19 7/16” x 2 ½” Developed with Dan Ross and tested by the FCD crew, this board excels in 2-8 foot surf; points beachies, and everything in between this board is a go to for most anyone.

Available at FCD Surfboards 43 S. Olive St, Ventura (805)641-9428 www.fcdsurfboards.com

J7 SURFBOARDS Shaped by Jason Feist Mad Max

5'10" x 18 3/8" x 2 1/4" Designed for precise in the pocket surfing. A clean and balanced rocker, outline and bottom contour allows this board to be explosive yet controlled in a wide range of conditions. The Mad Max is the epitome of a high a performance shape and truly comes to life in anything waist high to overhead. Standard sizes are 5’8”-6’4” Available at A-Frame Surf Shop (Carpinteria), Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura) J7 Surfboards (Santa Barbara) www.j7surfdesigns.com

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

MATT MOORE SURFBOARDS Shaped by Matt Moore Rincon Round Pin 6'1" x 19" x 2 1/4"

High performance point-break round pin. Tail riding board, and great pocket styled board.

Thruster or quad fin set up.

Shown with tri-fin FCS set up.

Customs always availble.

Available at Rincon Designs Surf Shop 659 Linden Ave., Carpinteria (805) 684-2413 www.rincondesigns.net

Dynamic Events.

Fascinating People.

Captivating Stories.

New Adventures in Deep Sea Exploration Underwater Explorer/Titanic Discoverer

Robert Ballard

SUn, Apr 27 / 3 pm / UCSB CAmpBeLL hALL $25 / $15 UCSB students and youths 18 & under

In this visually gripping presentation, a great explorer looks back at his major discoveries, including the Titanic, and ahead to the future of exploration in our seas.

Books will be available for purchase and signing Community Partner:

An All Gaucho Reunion event co-presented by the UCSB Alumni Association

Sponsored in part by Sheila & Michael Bonsignore

(805) 893-3535 / www.ArtsAndLectures.UCSB.edu

PRODUCT REVIEW ELECTRONICS

Scoshe boomBOTTLE H20

Taking their boomBOTTLE to another water level, the boomBOTTLE H2O does exactly what the name describes—a water proof speaker. Now you can jump in the ocean, pool, lake, or river and listen to your favorite band while soaking up some rays.

Up to 8 hours of continuous music and wirelessly streams to your device. - DEEP Staff

$99.99 Available at www.scosche.com CLOTHING

hb Super Standard Baja I swear I must buy a new set of headphones monthly. I either don’t have a pair when I really need them, lose them in the house, or accidently put them through the wash in my pockets. Attaching a pair of headphones to a sweatshirt is simple and smart. The headphones on the drawstrings come equipped with a microphone, and the patented hb3 technology allows them to go through the wash. The sound from the headphones is excellent and the sweatshirts are comfortable. The dedicated device pocket is big enough for even the largest of smart phones. - Dan Terry

$68 Available at www.hoodiebuddie.com

Scoshe MagicMount

This new magnetic mounting system allows you to drive hands-free while navigating on the road. Just hover your phone, tablet, or nearly any device near the magnetic surface and it locks securely in place. Also works at home too! The MagicMount Power also charges your mobile device while you are in the car. - DEEP Staff

MagicMount $19.99 / MagicMount Power $29.99 Available at www.scosche.com RACKS

Westside Boards Racks The eco-friendly solution to surf racks. The “Surfboard Rack” is the all-in-one spot for your board, wetsuit, towel and trunks. Created with sustainable birch and sealed with an eco-friendly, non-toxic, low-VOC that makes this rack the best of both worlds—convenient and eco-friendly. A minirack is also available for your smaller items. - DEEP Staff

Surfboard Rack $105 Surf Rack Mini $75 Available at www.westsideboards.com

FOOTWEAR

Indosole

The Stone Boat shoes and Green Grass Mat sandals are hard to beat. Not only are they comfortable and stylish, it's what’s on the bottom that counts.

Indosole, conceived on a surf trip to Bali, creates a unique solution to the pollution problem in Indonesia by taking tires from landfills and turning them into the soles of their footwear. Handmade by Balinese artisans, Indosole footwear is at the top of re-purposing. - DEEP Staff

Stone Boat Shoes $66 Green Grass Matt Sandals $44 Available at A-Frame Surf Shop (Carpinteria), Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura), Ventura Surf Shop, Channel Islands Surf Shop (Santa Barbara) www.indosole.co m

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

SOUND

EcoXGear

The EcoxGear EcoxPro is a 100% waterproof speaker that can take the damage from a surf trip. Its durable outer shell hides a waterproof storage compartment for your iPod, phone, keys, cash and more. Their 3-inch full-range front speaker can keep you listening to your favorite band while trekking to your secret spot. - DEEP Staff

$79.99 Available at www.ecoxgear.com

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HOW TO:

Upcycled Wetsuit Laptop Case WORDS + PHOTOS BY KATIE MCLEAN TOOLS:

• Scissors • Wetsuit repair glue • An un-wearable wetsuit

(Do not steal your spouse’s or sibling’s)

• Any long string, leather strip, shoelace, or wetsuit strap

HOW TO: 1. Cut one rectangle the size of your laptop plus 1/2” on the sides and bottom.

2. Cut one “house” shape: the size of

your laptop plus 1/2” on all sides, and a triangular “roof” shorter than the width of the laptop.

3. Cut a tiny strip of wetsuit 2”x1/4”.

4. Glue along the bottom edge and sides of

OUTGROW YOUR RADICAL 1980s NEON WETSUIT?

Split it in the buttocks from a critical bottom turn? Or simply just need this season’s super-cute, hyper-stretch wettie? Rips, tears, shark attacks or new sponsors, whatever the reason for that old wetsuit you haven’t parted ways with, it’s time for a second coming.

THE DIY WETSUIT LAPTOP CASE.

That water-repellent, squishy neoprene is perfect padding for your gadgets. And based on your conflict with the cobblestone that condemned this wetsuit, your gadgets need some protection from your hazardous ways. So up-cycle, be Green, and save bucks with this stylish, homemade wetsuit laptop case.

the rectangle shape. Then glue along the bottom of the house shape and up the sides stopping 1/2” from the “roof.” Note that you’ll be turning your case inside out, so glue on the side of your neoprene that you want showing in the end.

TIP: Tape off your edges for a clean, thin line of glue.

Then remove any tape. Let the glue sit for a minute until it is tacky.

5. Stick the shapes together where they are glued.

TIP: Tape the around the sides of your case to ensure it dries in place.

6. Lastly, you’ll glue on your 2” strip of

neoprene for your portfolio style strap.

With the “house” shape facing up, glue two dots 2” apart at the top of the triangle. Glue coordinating dots on the ends of your 2” strip. Let the glue sit for a minute. Then press the pieces together.

TIP: Cover with tape to ensure the strip dries in place.

7. Let dry overnight.

TIP: Stack books on top so your case dries together flat.

8. Remove all tape and turn right side out.

9. Tie the end of your string to your 2” strip.

Wrap the string around your laptop for closure, and you're done!

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

Show us your skills!

Upload your photo to Instagram or Facebook and tag us (@DEEPSurf Mag / DEEP Surf Magazine).

Questions on this project? email info@deepzine.com.

Have a DIY idea? email info@deepzine.com and tell us about it!

Ta-dah!

You have yourself a brand new laptop case.

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Judith Meyer Fight Back Ceremony

SAVE THE DATE!!!

Sunday, July 20 at 9 a.m.

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Paddle Out For Hope

To preregister and more information carppaddleout@gmail.com OR (805) 284-4993

$10 min. donation goes to Paddle Out for Hope Team

www.relayforlife.org/carpinteriaca

Surf reportS * Swell forecaStS * photoS * VideoS * profileS

Plugged In W O R D S + P H O TO B Y C H U C K G R A H A M It’s mid-January and the lower and upper lots at Rincon are bursting with surfers from all walks of life.

Except there is one parking spot left in the upper lot.

It’s here where I wait for Michael Chiacos, the Energy and Transportation manager with the Community Environmental Council (CEC) in Santa Barbara.

Several cars drive up thinking they’ve scored a prime spot to park, only to be denied by the sign that reads Electric Vehicle Parking Only. This is one of 200 public electric vehicle charging stations installed up and down the coast in recent years. Chiacos arrives a few minutes later in his Chevy Volt, pulls into the choice spot and charges up his EV. “Most people are wary of new technology, especially on a big purchase like a car and are concerned about the limited range of some electric cars,” said Chiacos. “One surfer I know commutes from Santa Barbara to Ventura each day and switched from a Ford Escape Hybrid to a Nissan Leaf EV and solar and is now saving $245 a month.”

Chiacos’ Chevy Volt doesn’t have a range issue as it combines the best of an EV and a hybrid.

After charging his EV overnight he has 38 miles of EV range per day, and often will go a few weeks without using a drop of gas.

Chiacos said pure electric cars do have a limited range of 80 to 250 miles before a lengthy recharge, but many people with two or more cars in their household could swap one gas car out for an EV and use it for most of their driving, taking the other car when they go on a road trip or have a long driving day. EVs are also getting more affordable, you can now lease one for $200$300/month and use the $2,500 California rebate for the down payment.

In general, how much we drive and what we drive are the largest environmental impacts we make each day," continued Chiacos. While recycling and not using plastics are important to do, they have a tiny environmental impact compared to driving 30 miles to go for a surf.

However, Chiacos said the largest benefit of his EV is knowing that he’s driving on sunshine instead of oil. "While oil is an amazing, energy dense substance, our dependence on it is exacerbating climate change and air pollution," he said. "It can devastate our marine ecosystems. Oil hurts us economically by causing us to give hundreds of billions a year to other countries, getting us into wars, and other problems. Driving an EV charged from the local Edison grid reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 75 percent and produces zero tailpipe emissions using clean, domestic electricity. I, along with 40 percent of EV drivers take it a step further by installing solar. The price has come down a lot, and a system large enough to power my small house and car costs $7,500 after incentives. While that was a major investment for me, it’s expected to produce $55,000 worth of power over the next 25 years, which will save a bundle over the long run.

Although Chiacos and the CEC were instrumental in erecting charging stations up and down

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the coast, they weren’t alone. Members of the EV Readiness group, “Plug in Central Coast,” the Air Pollution Control Districts of Ventura, Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties and the Central Coast Clean Cities Coalition also contributed to the plug-in installations.

The charging stations are located all over the Central Coast, and the easiest way to locate them is by going to this website or mobile app www.Recargo.com. Many cities have put them in downtown parking lots, and shopping centers and hotels have added them as well. The ones most pertinent to surfers are probably the charging stations at Rincon, C-Street, Malibu and Leo Carillo. That said, about 90 percent of EV charging takes place at home and overnight, which is super convenient and also very affordable. Chiacos charges up for about $1/gallon equivalent with special rates through Edison that encourage nighttime super off-peak charging.

Chiacos broke his EV down for me like this: if he drives round-trip from Santa Barbara to C-Street, it costs him about $2. A surfer driving a large truck getting 16 mpg would pay $14 in gas. Chiacos said he can fit three guys and four shortboards inside his Volt without racks, or he can take one buddy and two longboards.

“While I realize an EV isn’t for everyone, something everyone can do to double their MPG in any car is surf with a friend,” said Chiacos. “While we all sometimes drive to the beach alone, I always try as hard as possible to find a buddy or two to surf with. Half the environmental impact, and way more fun!”

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SURF’S UP FOR KIDS DINNER & AUCTION BENEFITTING

THE BOYS & GIRLS CLUB OF SANTA BARBARA

Honorary Chair & Emcee Shaun Tomson

May 3, 2014 2014,, 12 – 4 pm

River View Park in Buellton

SATURDAY, APRIL 26

AT FESS PARKERS DOUBLETREE RESORT 633 E. CABRILLO ST., SANTA BARBARA

INFO: boysgirls.org • monique@boysgirls.org

Tickets Available! $35 March 1- April 18 THIS WILL SELL OUT! $45.00 April - May 3

www.BuelltonBrewFest.com (805) 688-7829 • info@Buellton.org

PHOTOESSAY: JIM MARTIN THEVISUALJOURNEY

Packy, a humble Ventura fixture.

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Behind the magic. McWay Falls, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.

WORDS BY CHUCK GRAHAM Dan Malloy, Alaia speed.

You’ll notice a lot of unique surf and ocean photography in photographer Jim Martin’s photo essay, but early on in his maturation as a photographer, he was all about landscapes.

I think that served him well as he added the ocean realm to his favorite subjects in 2006.

Martin has the uncanny ability to get himself in position for unique compositions, working the angles to accentuate his imagery whether he’s shooting from the beach or in the water. That’s not always easy to do, but it’s evident in his work.

“Since surfing has been a major part of my life for so long,” said Martin, who hails from Ventura, “shooting in the water was just a quick natural progression, and I felt at home.”

A surfer from Pierpont, Martin picked up his first camera from his dad at 16, a Canon

AE1, but photography always took a backseat to surfing. So it wasn’t until 2004 that Martin developed a real love of behind the viewfinder. He still finds it difficult picking up the camera when the surf is good, but he manages.

“I now had another addiction besides surfing,” continued Martin. “At times I struggled with the decision I had to make, which was to shoot or surf.”

With so many lenses on the beach and in the water, the competition would appear to be fierce, but Martin doesn’t see it that way.

“I really don’t consider other photographers as competition, but more like inspirations,” said Martin. “There is so much talent in this world as far as photography goes. I love seeing DEEPZINE.com

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PHOTOESSAY: JIM MARTIN the world through other people’s lenses.”

As the editor of DEEP, I have the privilege of pouring over lots of great images. Finding a place for all of them is a challenge, so it was tough choosing Martin’s. There were so many gems. I remembered what Martin said as I made my selections.

“I want the viewer to see what I saw, and to take them on a visual journey to feel as if they are in that moment,” he said.

To see more of Martin’s photography, visit www.jimshots.com.

McWay Falls, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.

Forward momentum. Ryan Milne, Ventura.

Tom Ball homeward bound, during the Ventura Deep Six 202-mile record breaking swim relay.

What goes around comes around.

Santa Clara River Estuary, Ventura.

Gentle Giant.

Channel Islands.

The real freight train.

Ventura.

PHOTOESSAY: JIM MARTIN

Mentawai porthole.

Chris McDonald.

The center of attention.

Two Trees full moon, Ventura.

The fire above.

Ventura.

Navigating wall tickle.

Chris McDonald.

Morning commute.

Point Mugu full moon.

Trevor Gordon, eyeballing the future. Ventura.

y t l Sa s d r a e B

W O R D S + P H O T O S B Y C H R I S PA PA L E O France in the fall. Enough said.

Ventura 2009 Nick Rozsa, 21, is fresh off a Mexican fantasy trip, nailing his first mag cover, multiple sponsors, winning contests and by all means living the life. One would think Rozsa was always on a flawless path to success, but in all reality, it was the complete opposite.

2007 This is the year I met Nick in the water. I was new to the art of surfing and quickly became obsessed with every aspect of being in the ocean. I had lost interest in school, work, team sports, you name it. All I wanted was to be in the water. I grew up in Simi Valley, a small middle-class town of inland Ventura County, nearly one hour from the coast. A nightmare for a surf enthusiast.

Thankfully, not long after meeting Nick—we had

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mutual friends and randomly became roommates—we rented a rad little condo near some fun beach breaks in Ventura. Nick happened to be working on his part for the Reef movie at the time and needed some footage from home. I was just getting into filming and had no clue what I was doing. He asked me if I would try shooting some surfing. I always aspired to be a filmmaker but never really had the skills, let alone the connections to actually have success in the industry. We made a couple edits that seemed cool at the time, but nobody really paid much attention.

Fast-forward about two years Nick ended up moving down south to Carlsbad. Not having much direction in life, he fully lost interest in surfing contests. He focused more on having a good

time than his career. Nick started getting heavy into the party scene. Big nights at home quickly turned into all nighters in Australia, which eventually led to a threemonth bender in Bali. While in Bali he literally surfed twice over a three-month span.

One night Nick went so big he wound up in the hospital. Some would say he officially hit rock bottom.

Somehow, he still wasn’t convinced he was on the wrong path. The wake-up calls were coming however.

The first being from his longtime sponsor Reef informing Nick he was being cut from the program. The second call came a couple weeks later from his girlfriend letting him know she was pregnant. Now without a job and zero income, Nick was stuck.

To make ends meet he worked alongside his dad doing construction. Nick quickly realized how good he

Rozsa, left, and the author on their last wave check of their six-week European adventure.

DEEPZINE.com

67

Rozsa wearing his Salty Beards tee.

Every item purchased on their website goes towards clothing the local homeless.

had had it globetrotting living the gypsy lifestyle of a professional surfer, and now it was all gone.

Without a college degree and little resources for job opportunities, it was obvious he needed to use the only real tool he had to support his family—surfing.

One day out of the blue I get a phone call from Nick asking if I want to film a couple sessions for a free-surfing video contest he was pondering entering known as “Innersection.” He hadn’t surfed in months and was only a few days away from becoming a father.

Luckily, we had a decent run of swell come through providing us with opportunity to get some work done. The video had a lot of feedback, mostly negative, but there were a few inspirational

Despite the time difference, it's always 12 o'clock somewhere.

comments from the likes of Taylor Steele stating how baffled he was that Nick was unsponsored. We had the desire to prove something now. Nick had a whole new motivation to succeed, his son Roenn was born. He knew he had a mouth to feed, and a life to provide for.

We shot every day after that for a few months. After

putting all the clips together, we dropped a six-minute webisode entitled “Homegrown.” I think it had about 100 views in the first week. Pretty disappointing to say the least.

A few weeks later, somehow the video ended up on a couple of popular surf websites and a stir of controversy arose. Surfers were in an uproar that someone with talent

Days after the Quik Pro circus left town, empty French beachbreaks continued to produce.

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such as Nick’s was still unsponsored and surfing crappy one-foot beach breaks. The people wanted to see more.

A couple of weeks later, we released a follow-up video entitled “Homegrown 2.” This time every surf website showcased the clips. The controversy continued.

Out of nowhere, I received a Twitter message from

Kelly Slater: “Nick Rozsa is the best unsponsored surfer in the world.” That blew our mind, and everyone started paying attention.

With the opportunity on the table, we took full advantage and committed any time we could to getting work done wherever the local beaches

provided. There were multiple obstacles, however. With Nick having zero income and myself working full-time, it was difficult to arrange our sessions. We both made sacrifices to make the most of what was available.

New Year's Day 2012 I woke up to a phone call from a random number I had never seen before. To this day I still can’t believe the caller happened to be King Kelly himself. He wanted to come up and surf. I was blown away. It didn’t seem real.

I ended up shooting Kelly that whole week. A couple of days later, we dropped another webisode entitled “Homegrown 3 featuring Kelly Slater,” one of our most played videos to date.

Reef contacted Nick offering him a second opportunity to give surfing professionally another shot. On a roll with something to prove, a couple of weeks later we dropped another webisode entitled “Homegrown 4.” It was safe to say Nick was back on the map.

Luck being in our favor, we stayed dedicated to getting clips while scoring a consistent run of swell in Mexico. That trip eventually led to our final webisode of the Homegrown series, “Homegrown 5.”

We wanted to do something different with this video, however. Since Nick was nearly homeless just a few month prior, he wanted to give back to the community. Nick grew up in the Ventura area that happens to be riddled with salty, crusty, bearded, DEEPZINE.com

69

homeless people. So we decided to start a website with an online store that gives back to those in need.

SaltyBeards.com was born with a percentage of all sales going towards the local homeless in our community.

January 2014 Salty Beards has become a home for all of our videos, photos, clothing, travels and experiences with the homeless and other weird stuff we’re into. We just released a short film from our two-month European camping trip, where we scored really fun waves in Italy, France, Spain and Portugal. Currently, we are shooting a new film with a few adventures in mind. We’re stoked to have the opportunity to do what we love everyday and wouldn’t change a thing.

Check out www.saltybeards.com.

Didn't think Italy had surf-able waves? Think again…

Even though Rozsa is "anti-contest," we wouldn't mind seeing turns like this in a jersey.

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I came to John asking for a fun, loose, small wave board. I have a 5’7” model and it’s the funnest small wave board I’ve ever had.

Down the line, carving, floating, playing, no limits. A must have for small waves.

- Tony DeGroot

TEAM RIDER TONY DEGROOT ON HIS CUSTOM TRIBAL

(805) 637-5100 / JVPSURFBOARDS.COM

PHOTOS: DAVID PU’U

Swimsuit Issue Coming May 2014 to advertise email info@deepzine.com • www.deepzine.com

BOARD TRACHTING PHOTO: DAVE “MOUSE” FRIESEN

The Rabbitsfoot SHAPED BY RYAN LOVELACE

BY SHAWN TRACHT Once you start spinning, just hold on and enjoy the ride.

W

atching Trevor Gordon, Ryan Burch and Ari Browne shred this freak show board in Ryan Lovelace’s movie, “Almost Cut My Hair,” I quickly became amazed, excited and scared out of my mind. These guys had surfed the Rabbitsfoot in epic overhead waves, and thus, the bar had been set. Terrified, I knew that I had to wait for the larger swells in winter to really give the board a true test under my feet.

Now while these young lads were carving turns and finding the tube around the world, I found my style of riding the board to be different. I mostly just spun the heck out of it! That being said, the board brought a new spark of intrinsic stoke to an everyday go out for both myself, the rider, and everyone else at the beach.

Shaper’s Take: The Rabbitsfoot isn’t for everyone, but for those curious enough and tempted by what’s going on with finless surfing right now, it’s a pretty approachable board to step into this new realm.

Finless surfing—a.k.a. Friction Free—is an open book.

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There has been a lot of progression in just the past couple years, but there are hardly any rules right now, and it’s extremely exciting to be in the mix of it all. There are a few branches of finless design, and the Rabbitsfoot seems to occupy one of those: short, round and somewhat simple at first glance.

Seeing one in person you’ll quickly notice that there are zero flat spots in the shape, and every square inch of the board is utilized and effective. Everything warps and bends into the next feature. They are extremely difficult and enjoyable boards to shape. The asymmetry in the outline is meant to favor your toe side. I shape them for both regular and goofy footers, and it’s advised that you ride finless designs on your frontside—the sensitivity you have on your forehand is pretty necessary. Heel side finless surfing is a road less traveled at this point. Something that will break down over time though I’m sure—the bounds of friction free surfing are far less than those of conventional style surfboards and time will see those doors open. They used to call pipeline unsurfable.

One important thing to note is wave quality—finless surfing is most effective and more easily grasped in good waves. The momentum and length of the lines drawn really

does want a good wave to work with. It’s not 100% necessary, but it makes the act much more accessible.

The development of the shape is ongoing and has come a long way since the first version. The theory has stayed intact, but the details and placement have moved a lot along with the specific materials they are built with. I like to consider the Rabbitsfoot an ongoing project, and I expect everyone who owns one to give me feedback. If that all seems doable and you’re still curious, we ought to have a chat.

Surfer’s Take: There are a few keys to surfing this board: 1 Stay low, and lean into your toe side rail.

2 Hang the big toe of your back foot over the rail line of the board into the water. Like Chandler told Rick Kane in the 1980s movie “North Shore,”“Your back foot is your fin, your rudder.

Drag it in the water to turn.”

3 If the board starts spinning, go with it baby! If you try to catch yourself mid-spin as you’re starting a slide, you’re going to slip and fall right on your face (I know this from experience).

So just stay centered, stay focused and hang on. That inside

Shawn Tracht waited until winter to test this board.

PHOTO: GREGG TALLY

PHOTO: BRENT LIEBERMAN

Ryan Lovelace and Tracht.

PHOTO: BRENT LIEBERMAN

Free friction surfing is fast.

PHOTO: CAMERON KNOWLTON

PHOTO: TRACHT

Some guys get tubed on this thing. Tracht spun the heck out of it!

rail is designed to trim high on a wave’s face, but if you lose your trim line, just follow through with your 360 and try getting the rail line engaged on your next time around.

4 If you want to blow people’s minds, then fly across a shallow reefy section, over the kelp that’s eating everybody up who has fins, and then spin three 360s in a row to the beach. You’ll have every person from the water to the beach hooting at you and running over to see what the heck you’re up to (that’s from personal experience as well).

As far as who the board is designed for, I’d say anyone who is looking for a new challenge. For me, a working man, I generally surf the same waves everyday. After putting in 10 years at the same local spots, the way for me to be a surf wanderer is to challenge myself on new surfboards at the same ol’ wave. I’d say as long as you can catch waves, stand up and trim down the line on your normal board, then you can learn how to surf this board too (in whatever way you choose to do it).

The final way to really explain my stoke about this board is the text I sent Lovelace after the biggest swell that I was

Ryan Lovelace— part hippie, part genius.

able to catch on the Rabbitsfoot: “Had a freaking phenomenal session in pumping waves tonight on the Rabbits Butt kook. Board is mental! I walked down the path and had all the boys (were) laughing at me and with me ... all befuddled. There were some 6- to 10foot faces here and there. I told them only wussies use fins.

They got a kick out of it! I climbed over some reef and out to this spot that never breaks, and they all said they were going to walk out on the point just to check it out. Don’t think I wasn’t thrilled? My first two waves were overhead and I have to say, I had the board dialed more in big waves than small, like you told me. I’ve never had so many guys that I respect hooting so loud and so long as I skated across this reef finger and made some critical sections, then would spin two or three 360s in the bowl and ride out of it. What a freakin’ rush! It was like my own little Super Bowl in my own mind. I was so hyped! Thanks for being ballsy and freaking going for it Lovelace! I don’t always want to surf finless, but tonight was one of the most exhilarating sessions of my life.

Unforgettable! Keep rockin’ it weird brahda! You’re the man!

Thanks for the ride!”

RYAN LOVELACE SURF CRAFT Shaper: Ryan Lovelace Board Shape/Design: Rabbitsfoot / Finless Surfboard How to order: Honestly ... I have no idea!

Just call Lovelace and tell him if you’re a regular or a goofy foot, give your height and weight, and then hold on and see what shows up at your door.

Fins: Ya right! Who needs fins!

Board’s specialty: Spinning five 360s in a row, speed, and a very unique challenge that is sure to get you much attention and a lot of stoke.

This Board is perfect for: Surfers who need to revitalize the surfing experience with a new challenge.

Shaper’s Contact Info: Website: www.rlovelace.com Email: ryankentlovelace@gmail.com Surfer’s Blog: surfwanderer.com DEEPZINE.com

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2014

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GREEN ROOM

The Birth of An Eco Surf Company: Discover Alternatives to Plastic WORDS + PHOTOS DEREK DODDS Lion Fish swimming with plastic.

D

id you know that 46,000 pieces of plastic debris float on every square mile of the ocean?

I didn’t know that either, and in 2007 when I took a surf trip to Mexico with six surf mutants pulling a trailer with 17 surfboards, 15 wetsuits and three cases of Sierra Nevada, I had no idea that I’d be starting an eco revolution in the surf industry.

We pulled up to uncrowded surf at Cuatros Casas in Baja. It was well overhead, and the sets were building from the south with light, off-shore winds. We were the only car on the bluff.

I ripped the lock off the U-Haul like a surf-crazed Che Guevarra and began pulling out the mountain of board bags piled to the ceiling. As I was schlepping the multi-colored bags out of the trailer, I said to myself, “Damn that’s a lot of plastic.”

It got me thinking about the 30 years of surfing that I had done and the hundreds of surf products that I had purchased as my oceanic journey unfolded. I asked myself, “How much plastic have I been personally responsible for?” I also started to think about all those discarded items that I had thrown away over the years—broken leashes, ripped bags, soiled socks, broken boards, etc.

I knew I would never stop surfing; the more I surf, the more I appreciate it. My relationship with the ocean is one of the most important elements in my life—in fact, it is my life. How could I live my passion and at the same time decrease my environmental footprint on the earth and its oceans? I already bought organic food, and I even had some bamboo clothing, but could I find eco surf products?

After doing some research, I discovered that ecological surf products did not exist. I realized that I was the person who had to do something about it. Wave Tribe was the result of a deep heartfelt desire to give back to my fellow surfers and the planet. I started thinking about various materials that could be used to replace all that plastic floating in the ocean, and it came to me after a long surf session: HEMP was the perfect material.

Hemp is one of the oldest and most versatile crops in the world. For thousands of years, hemp seeds, stalks and flowers have been used for nutritious, medical, spiritual and industrial purposes.

The fibers from the stalks boast an unusually high tensile strength, resulting in an incredibly highquality and durable fabric. Hemp fiber is one of the softest and most durable fibers produced by any natural product, which makes it perfect for surfboard bags and surf accessories.

Hemp was first cultivated by the Chinese in the 2nd century B.C. At that time, the fibers

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where used for paper and textile, and the seeds for food and in medicines. The Chinese played a significant role improving the harvesting and processing techniques of hemp. In the 15th century, hemp was introduced in the American colonies. From that moment onward, much of the paper and clothing in colonial America was made from hemp. The textiles were recycled into “rag paper,” known to this day as one of the strongest and most long-lasting papers in the world. In fact, the most cherished symbol of American liberty, the Declaration of Independence, with those famous words "life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness" was written on hemp paper.

Hemp is a wonderful alternative to plastic because: • Hemp grows naturally without pesticides • Hemp is mold resistant • Hemp is strong and durable • Hemp is biodegradable • Hemp reduces heat and remains cool • Hemp protects against the sun’s rays • Hemp is straight up COOL But most important, at the end of its life-cycle, hemp goes back into the Earth and decomposes. It doesn’t rot in some landfill for the next thousand years like plastic.

When I returned from my trip, I started to do more research and began to contact factories to put together some rough samples. Next, I found a company that would help me produce surfboard leashes out of recycled plastic. Product number two was born, and I could feel those Wave Tribe footprints getting lighter and lighter with each step.

The third stroke (and stoke!) of innovation came when I created the first cork traction pad. Cork cells display what is known as elastic memory—when compressed they return to their original size, which is great for stomp pads. Most deckpads are made out of nonenvironmentally friendly EVA plastic (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate). Cork is a renewable resource and its harvesting is a truly sustainable example of agroforestry, which combines agricultural and forestry technologies to create more diverse, productive, healthy and sustainable land systems.

Producing plastic on the other hand—well, you can imagine—extracting plastic from oil is a dirty process.

Why does cork make a great pad? It’s light and soft and has no hard ridges on your pad that

Ventura rivermouth, let's keep it clean.

cuts your knees. Cork does not absorb water; it repels it—that means your surfboard tail remains light and agile for those sick turns. Cork is a natural fire retardant, so your board won’t catch fire because you rip so hard.

In 2013, Wave Tribe started manufacturing several of its bag models in California. It sure feels great to support local businesses and substantially decrease our transportation footprint by more than 10,000 kilometers. We joined the upcycle movement, purchasing used vinyl billboard advertisements that normally go straight into landfills. We repurpose that material to create new products, like a rad Wave Tribe boardbag. Each bag is unique and we can make custom sizes or funky shapes. But the most awesome thing about these bags is that they are made by other surfers in California, using materials sourced from the United States. This keeps jobs in America and also helps us invest back into our local communities. Buying local isn’t just for food, and as Corie from Australia reminded me this week, it is easy to get lost in the haze and daze of the naive consumerist lens that we are conditioned to see life through, in this “7-Eleven, 24 hour,

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The ocean and garbage.

super-sized, but wait there’s more, no time for time society.”

We as consumers have forced companies to deliver lower and lower priced products via the Walmart effect.

The reality is that "how" a purchase impacts one’s wallet is more decisive than "how" the product influences Upcycled the environment. We need to change billboard how we think, how we look, how we boardbags. consume and how we live. It’s up to all of us to join this eco movement and to recognize the importance of living and surfing differently.

Our oceans and planet deserve and demand an immediate action. Our lives are intimately connected to the health of our planet, and if we don’t act now, we’ll all be surfing in wave pools filled with boogie borders and chlorinated water.

Derek Dodds is the founder of Wave Tribe and can be found riding his Mini Simmons around Ventura beaches and foreign surf locations. Please send your comments, suggestions, and stoke to derek@wavetribe.com.

MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT

Santa Barbara International Film Festival

BY L. PAUL MANN

T

he 29th annual Santa Barbara International Film Festival has become one of the most important stops on the festival circuit for many of today’s top filmmakers and actors.

Happening just before the Academy Awards, the event has consistently attracted the biggest stars of the industry. This year was no exception with most of the major Oscar nominated participants in attendance. But, even though the festival has become a huge paparazzi event rarely seen in sleepy, secretive Santa Barbara, the festival has also maintained its roots, showcasing important documentaries and adventure sports films.

Many of these films revolved around a fascination with the world’s oceans. In a fitting tribute to underwater cinematographer Mike deGruy, this years opening film was an urgent environmental message delivered by oceanographer Dr. Sylvie Earle in the documentary film “Mission Blue.” DeGruy was the festival organizer of the nature series for many years, before tragically being killed two years ago in a helicopter crash while scouting a film location. He filmed some of the remarkable underwater footage in “Mission Blue.” Dr. Earle is one of the most renowned oceanographers in the world, having spent no less than 6,000 hours scuba diving across the globe. The magnificent cinematography in the film is a backdrop to Dr. Earle’s plea to save the world’s oceans and its inhabitants from human pollution and ultimate extinction. The former chief scientist at NOAA, Dr. Earle paints a dire picture of the world’s future if society doesn’t change its view of the ocean as the world’s garbage can.

The festival also featured two surfing documentaries. Unlike like last year's duo of gut wrenching, dramatic big wave documentaries, including “Chasing Maverick’s,” and Australia’s “Storm Surfers,” this year’s films focused on surf culture.

“A Life Outside” Featuring six New Jersey surfing pioneers reminiscing on their lives revolving around the waves at the Casino Pier in Seaside Heights. The film takes a nostalgic look back at the birth of surf culture in the area and reveals the struggles of the aging surfers coming to terms with the balance between surfing and family values. The film also includes extensive interviews with several of the earliest world champions in the sport of surfing and their take on the same struggles and responsibilities as aging surfers. The film also takes an unexpected turn at the end with the unforeseen devastation of hurricane Sandy and the obliteration of the legendary surf spot. Five of the original surfers and director Catherine Brabec held an emotional Q & A session after each screening.

“Bella Vita” Jason Baffa's beautifully filmed “Bella Vita” was surf movie mixed with a documentary of Italian art and culture.

The film tells the story of an Italian-American artist, Chris del Moro, returning to where he spent summers in Italy, to surf and discover his creative roots. The film is an interesting look into the history of generations of Italian craftsmen, from bakers to boat builders.

It also explores Italian culture and offers up interviewees with pioneering Italian surfers such as Leonardo Fioravanti and Alessandro Ponzanelli. There is some interesting surfing featuring the Coffin brothers, Del Moro, Dave Rastovich and Lauren Hill.

A visual epic captured in stunning 35mm, bella vita is an intimate and powerful journey of self-discovery, seeped in culture, tradition, and passion- where family comes first.

Alice Cooper Rocks Chumash Casino WORDS + PHOTO BY L. PAUL MANN

A

lice Cooper, the Detroit rock inspired reigning godfather of Shock Rock, brought his impish antics to a full house on Nov. 21 at the Chumash Casino Resort in Santa Ynez. The iconic singer, who always tours with top rock musicians in his band, has assembled one of his best groups since the original lineup disbanded back in the mid 1970s.

Fronted by Australian Greek guitar goddess Orianthi, the five piece band played an explosive hard rock backing tract for Cooper’s stage antics, punctuated with relentless solos throughout the set. The show unfolded in one of the only venues in the tri-counties that allows unbridled sound levels like those found in a good old fashioned hard rock show like Cooper’s. (www.chumashcasino.com/entertainment)

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Rainbow Girls Shine at SOhO WORDS + PHOTO BY LEA BOYD

I

t doesn’t matter who they play with, the Rainbow Girls always steal the show. Such was the case on Jan. 23 when the boot stompin’ all-girls band got feet thumpin’ and pulses racin’ throughout Santa Barbara’s SOhO nightclub.

Having sharpened their performance skills on Santa Barbara’s farmers markets and busking tours through Europe, the Rainbow Girls are now in their finest form. They rocked SOhO with their charateristic up-tempo folk sound—fast paced yet approachable, soulful but never sappy, charged with young energy and high intensity lyrics.

But let’s talk about that high energy. Cheyenne Methmann, who contributes her voice and guitar talents, etched herself deepest into the audience’s memory with her no-holds-barred tap dancing. The bands' drummer blasted the beat, making herself an unforgettable contributor despite her near invisibility behind the four front women.

Harmonies seem to come with breathing for the Rainbow Girls. Their recordings are good, but their performances are great. It’s DEEP’s fervent belief that if you haven’t seen them live, you really haven’t lived. (www.sohosb.com)

David Crosby Hometown Special WORDS + PHOTO BY L. PAUL MANN

D

avid Crosby played a very special concert at the Lobero Theater on Jan. 16, in front of a hometown crowd of Santa Barbara friends, relatives and long time music fans. The recently renovated Lobero Theater is not only the oldest continuously running live production theater in California, but has to be one of the best venues to hear live music in the entire tri-counties area.

This is especially true now that the theater has upgraded to larger seats, bigger restrooms, and relaxed its rules to allow beverage consumption inside the theater. It was the perfect backdrop for what was billed as a warm up concert for Crosby’s new mini-tour to promote his first solo project in 20 years—the newly released “Croz” album. Crosby and a team of five seasoned musicians, including his son, and music collaborator James Raymond on keyboards, played two full sets lasting nearly three hours into the night. (www.lobero.com)

Funky Jazz Party WORDS + PHOTO BY L. PAUL MANN

N

ew Orleans jazz funk master Trombone Shorty together with his band Orleans Avenue played a dance infused concert at UCSB’s Campbell Hall. The concert was another sold out event in the UCSB Arts and Lectures concert series, which has become more popular than ever this season.

The UCSB Arts and Lectures organization was founded back in 1959. The group continues to expand their cultural outreach program producing over 100 events a year. The organization's stated mission is to “educate, entertain and inspire.”

The Trombone Shorty concert on Jan. 23 combined all of these lofty goals into a riveting evening of musical education for Santa Barbara’s young and old. Just like he did, when he played at the same venue a few years ago, Trombone Shorty invited aspiring local high school musicians to attend the band's rehearsal. Then the band proceeded to perform a spirited jam session, inviting the young musicians who brought their own instruments to play with them.

The Grammy Award nominated Trombone Shorty and his band of crack jazz funk rockers then proceeded to play a nearly two-hour set for the sold out crowd of much older jazz fans in the packed auditorium. (www. artsandlectures.sa.ucsb.edu) DEEPZINE.com

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Jack Letinsky anticipating a tube run.

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