Ha Long Bay Climbing

ISBN wings or not? Grade table fb adb, trav, Asia Outdoors | Luca De Giorgi jak HA LONG BAY CLIMBING

A rock climbing and deep water soloing guide of Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island

87

Elizabeth Bandy on License To Climb - 7a+ at The Face, p 88. Š Kelsey Grey.

INDEX

INFORMATION 8 Introduction 10 Asia Outdoors 12 Ha Long Bay Rock Climbing History 14 Erik Ferjentsik and Onslo Carrington 15 The Expedition Consultancy 16 Sport Climbing 17 Climbing Ethics and Bolting 17 Trad Climbing 18 Deep Water Soloing 20 How To Read Climb Descriptions 21 Legend 22 Gear 22 Grading 23 Climbing Safety 23 GPS 24 Climate and Geology 25 Dangers 26 Access 28 Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba 30 Cat Ba Town Map 32 Directions to Cat Ba 34 Rest Days 36 The Classic Sport Climbs 39 The Classic DWS Climbs ISLAND CLIMBING 42 Butterfly Valley 65 The Cave 66 Ben Beo 72 75 79 80 82 83 84 85 86 88

BAY CLIMBING Moody Beach Tiger Beach Pirate’s Belly Van Boi Trong Amphitheatre Monkey Wall Flying Fish Wall Polish Pillar Saigon Wall The Face

5

92 95 96 98 100 102 103 104 106 107 108 110 112 113 114 116 118 119 120 121

DEEP WATER SOLOING SOUTH Hawaii 5-0 Crag X Three Brothers Tung Thit Jellyfish Wall Andy Cave Never Never Land Jurassic Park Unemployment Wall Hon Dua Pyramid Cave Stingray Wall Bond Bastic Band Tastic Hang Ca Cave Le Mekong 1947 Fishermen’s Way Gingerbread Monster Face Streak of Lightning

124 126 127 128

DEEP WATER SOLOING NORTH Dark Horse Calvin Climb Cathedral Rock 400° Fahrenheit

133 134 137 138 139

APPENDIX More Climbing in the Bay Bare Feet First Climbing in Southeast Asia Photo credits Acknowledgements

12 HA LONG BAY ROCK CLIMBING HISTORY

Climbing in Southeast Asia first started in Thailand and has subsequently spread to Malaysia, China, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. The first climbers to visit Vietnam came in the 1990’s and early 2000’s. Americans Lynn Hill, Todd Skinner, Scott Milton, Paul Piana, Greg Child, and Frenchman Arnaud Petit, among others, led climbing expeditions to Vietnam and the Ha Long Bay region, bolting some of the area’s first known sport routes. Greg Child and Andy Parkin established early traditional multipitch lines in the bay, documented in the BBC’s The Face, Epidode 2. British climbers such as Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve, Grant Farquhar, and Chris Lindner also visited, establishing sport and DWS routes. Tim Emmett and Klem Loskot are featured climbing at some of the locations presented in this guidebook in Big Up Productions’ Dosage Vol III, and Chris Lindner is featured in The Players.

Thanks to these pioneers, climbing in Vietnam is growing fast in terms of development and popularity in the eyes of international climbers. Vietnam has since become a popular and inexpensive destination for travelers exploring and experiencing Southeast Asia through sport climbing and DWS. Vietnam boasts a variety of climbing locations. Ha Long Bay is the only area where there is an established deep water solo and sport climbing scene. At the time of writing, VietClimb, a Hanoibased climbing association, have just won a major bolting grant. They plan to dramatically increase sport climbing offered in Yen Thinh, near Hanoi, which we are excited to see develop.

The Ha Long Bay region, a sweep of

water from which approximately 1,600 limestone karst islands soar, lies in the Gulf of Tonkin just off Vietnam’s northern coastline. These craggy islands boast a stunning mix of rock blanketed in jungle and steep, exposed faces. Although not all of these walls contain solid rock, there is an overwhelming abundance of magnificent climbable faces. Many of the walls that rise directly from the water are ideal for DWS. Other faces stand over uninhabited sandy beaches, making for a unique and isolated sport climbing paradise. Cat Ba Island also boasts some amazing limestone cliffs.

Most sport climbs on and near Cat Ba Island were explored, bolted and first ascended by Erik Ferjentsik, cofounder of Asia Outdoors, around 2007-2008.

Almost all other first ascents have been made by his friends or in collaboration with him and Asia Outdoors.

In 2003, Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve, and Grant Farquhar led an expedition concentrated on establishing many of the Ha Long Bay region’s first known DWS crags.

A lot of DWS lines recorded over the last few years are a result of hard work and exploration by Dave Lucas and his comrades in the UK. Dave directs The Expedition Consultancy, which has run expeditions in Ha Long Bay and hopefully will do many more.

Although Cat Ba Island and the Ha Long Bay Region have a plethora of established routes, potential for new lines is unlimited. The organized push for climbing development has just begun.

Enjoy your moment in this little piece of paradise, on its way to becoming one of the world’s great climbing destinations.

13

Lynn Hill on a first ascent at Laughing Dog Wall in Ha Long Bay, p 133. Š Beth Wald.

Klem Loskot and Tim Emmett deep water soloing in the bay.

Taken from Dosage Vol. III, Big UP Productions.

Chris Lindner deep water soloing in Ha Long Bay. Taken from The Players, BS Production.

Tim Emmett on Nightrider - 7b, the line he bolted at The Face, p 88. Š Neil Gresham.

36 THE CLASSIC SPORT CLIMBS

We decided not to rate our climbs since we feel that they are all worth climbing. The few exceptions are clearly marked in the climb description. Instead, we made a list of our all-time-favourite routes: The Classics!

4

ROOTS REGGAE - Climbing like Indiana Jones on roots and jugs. p 50.

5a

MAO DE - Climb up high over Moody Beach and admire the Bay from above. p 72.

5c

HONEYMOONER’S DELIGHT - Short but sweet climb on Moody Beach up a flake, arête, and small overhang. p 73.

6a+

MOTHER BUTTERFLY - Long, balancy, and wonderfully exposed, this climb has it all. p 59.

6b

11 MONTHS IN THE WOMB - Athletic moves on big huecos. Enjoy! p 75.

6b+

BAREFOOT VIETNAMESE - A photogenic juggy roof over a beach in the middle of the bay. p 72.

6b+

ELEPHANT MAN - A vertical smooth wall with an amazing series of pockets and cracks. The best 6b+ of Cat Ba, by popular acclaim. p 55.

6c

CRACKER JACK - Big jugs on a fantastic diagonal crack, complete with a double knee-bar. p 52.

7a+

BUFFALO LOVE - Embark on a long and diversified dihedral climb with roof, slabs, tufas and layback cracks. You won’t regret it. p 55.

7a+

EGYPTIAN SUBMISSION POSITION - A climb of extremes: first find the right sequence on a crimpy traverse. Then muster the strength to power to the upper roof crux. p 69.

7a+

COALITION OF THE WILLING - Fancy feeling ultimately exposed while climbing an overhanging tufa 30 m above the waves? p 79.

7b

NIGHTRIDER - Nature’s masterpiece in Ha Long Bay: unique, aesthetic, and exposed. A must! p 88.

7c+

MISANTHROPE - Technical face climbing at its finest leads to an athletic roof. Bon appetit. p 69.

8a+

ENTER THE DRAGON - Do you have the courage to match yourself with the dragon? p 53.

37 Top: Thanh Nguyen on Barefoot Vietnamese - 6b+, at Moody Beach, p 72.

Bottom: Mervil Patigdas on Obama 101 - 7a, at Butterfly Valley, p 55. Š Neil Skilton

38

Chris Lindner high above the waves on Hawaii 5-0, p 95. Š Brian Solano.

THE CLASSIC DWS CLIMBS

Since deep water solo lines typically have to be at least slightly overhung there are not many lines under 6b. This small selection of classic climbs tries to cover the whole range of grades, but the most beautiful lines range between grades 6c and 7b.

4+

LOCO MEXICANO - The easiest DWS on Three Brothers and a perfect introduction to deep water soloing. p 96.

5c+

DIAGONAL CRACK - If you like layback climbing, this is your climb.

One diagonal crack with great holds all the way up. Great fun! p 93.

6a+

HAWAII TO HANOI - The classic warm-up traverse on Hawaii 5-0. A horizontal crack splitting the entire wall. p 93.

6b

JELLYFISHMAN - Stick your arm in deep juggy cracks and jump your way up the overhang: stone-monkey-style! p 118.

6b

POCKET WALTZ - A sequence of pockets on an overhang with a slabby technical finish. A fine line! p 97.

6b+

U.S.A. BOMBER - A riddle drawn in stone. Find the right sequence to overcome this techinal slabby face. p 117.

6c

VAIRGHY BOOTIFOOL - A perfectly overhung diagonal crack boulder problem at Three Brothers. p 97.

6c

ROCK DIP - Find the right holds in the tufa jungle to master this overhanging beauty of a line. p 117.

6c+

LE MEKONG - A burly lay-back crack leads to a smooth overhanging face with just enough holds to swing yourself up. p 117.

7a+

JOY DONGLE - This climb includes a dynamic move from a good undercling to a small hanging tufa. Many try, few succeed. p 92.

7a

THE PILLAR ORBIT - Traverse around the whole base of Hon Dua, the most incredible rock needle in Ha Long Bay. p 107.

7a+

HA LONG NIGHTS - The proverbial DWS line: Long overhang, loads of tufas, and great pockets. Superb! p 108.

7b DORAKUTO - Hawaii 5-0’s longest climb leads you through some hard

pockets to the “Golden Ledge.” Will you take the leap of faith? p 92.

7b+

BALLOONING AROUND - The bay’s highest and longest tufa line. Will you reach the tip of the pyramid? p 117.

7c+

STREAK OF LIGHTNING - Lan Ha Bay’s most iconic climb. A single electrifying crack splits a smooth, overhung face. Oi troi oi! p 121.

39

1

2

5

E

3

4 5

The crag at Ben Beo overlooks its namesake harbour and floating village behind Cat Ba Town, both bustling with activity. The tops of the climbs provide stunning views of daily life on the water below. It’s also quite probable that you’ll find yourself entertaining a small crowd of curious Vietnamese.

CLIMBING: Ben Beo contains the highest concentration of hard climbs in the area. The three climbs furthest left provide varied yet sustained climbing. In routes toward the right, difficulty is concentrated in the last few moves required to overcome the wall’s overhang.

Difficult sections at Ben Beo consist mostly of technical slab sequences or powerful moves on the overhang.

6

PASS

66 BEN BEO

7

The wall receives morning sun and afternoon shade. It’s still possible to climb here in light rain, although it needs time to dry after days of heavy rain. Take care around construction material the local community tends to stash under the wall and don’t forget to spot!

GETTING THERE: Ben Beo Harbor is easily reached from the Cat Ba waterfont by walking (15 minutes) or xe om (two minutes; 10,000 VND). Every climber is required to pay a small access fee to the owners upon entering the premises for climbing. Check with Asia Outdoors with up to date information regarding access arrangements.

Exact GPS coordinates: 20°43’57.77”N and 107° 3’31.53”E

67

Noel Yung on Animal - 7b at Ben Beo. Š Gavrila Piper

1. EGYPTIAN SUBMISSION POSITION - 7a+ 22 m, 12 Bolts, FA Erik Ferjentsik 2008 Diverse climbing including a first balancy crux on tiny crimps and another crux requiring dynamic and powerful moves to overcome the second-last overhang.

5. BIG BROWN B-HOLE - 7b 19 m, 10 Bolts, FA Erik Ferjentsik 2008 Two technical moves at the third bolt lead to a rest. Nice climbing continues to the overhang on big holds. Considerable finger power is needed not to fall from the last holds. Climb to the lower anchors for a 6b+ variation.

2. MOC DAY TRUOC - 7c+ 19 m, 9 Bolts, FA Vu Nguyen 2015 The start is already tough as nails. Consider a princess clip! The rest of the climb isn’t any easier. Get ready for some heavy crimp and sloper action.

6. WHO IS MARGARET THATCHER? - 7c 20 m, 12 Bolts, FA Erik Ferjentsik 2009 Fun,dynamic and occasionally reachy climbing on good holds leads to a hard and pumpy sequence through the overhang before turning back left to the anchors. Climb to the lower anchors for a 6a+ variation.

3. ANIMAL - 7b 20 m, 12 Bolts, FA Erik Ferjentsik 2008 Work your way up a slab on small holds to a good rest under a tufa. The crux is the overhang just above it. Climb straight up and over it or around to the right.

4. MISANTHROPE - 7c+ 20 m, 11 Bolts, FA Erik Ferjentsik 2008 A hard, cruxy slab with scarce holds leads to a good rest. Take advantage of the break and power to the roof crux with dynamic moves.

7. HAI TRAI DAO - 6c+ 21 m, 9 Bolts, FA Ross Lesslie 2015 Start on small pockets on the grey wall and work your way up to the first ledge. A technical slab on small crimps leads to the burly final overhang.

88 THE FACE

The Face, or Dadung, is one of Ha Long Bay‘s most beautiful and unique walls. Located far out in the bay, the boat ride to the island is an adventure in itself. Originally called Han‘s Island, The Face was first climbed in 2003

by Tim Emmett, Grant Farquhar, Seb Grieve, and Neil Gresham. Tim Emmett made the first ascent of Nightrider after dark, hence the route‘s name.

CLIMBING: The Face is a small island with one perfect wall. The cliff gradually gains steepness, transitioning from just shy of vertical to a wonderfully exposed overhang.

Much of the rock consists of flowstone, glazed as though wax had been poured down onto it and frozen mid-run, creating small stalactites. Pinching up this wall is pure fun.

Rock outside established lines can be brittle.

It is highly recommended that the belayer wear a helmet. The climbs receive morning shade and afternoon sun exposure.

When climbing in this area, rangers may approach your boat and ask for payment of a National Park fee.

GETTING THERE: The Face is part of an island complex across the main channel east of Ben Beo. A basket boat ride takes 90 to 120 minutes and is impossible in rough seas.

Routes on The Face were not set by Asia Outdoors. Ask at the Asia Outdoors office in regards to bolts‘ current conditions and about chartering a basket boat with a knowledgeable driver to reach the crag.

1. LICENCE TO CLIMB - 7a+ 25 m, 13 Bolts, FA Erik Ferjentisk 2008 Climb 5 meters to the last good rest and push to the top through small pinches and crimps.

Technical and sometimes balancy climbing requiring some endurance.

2. LICENCE TO CLIMB EXTENSION - 7c 32 m, 17 Bolts, Lee Cujes 2009 The extension is not often repeated since rock quality is quite bad.

W

90

3. NIGHTRIDER (aka THE FACE) - 7b 30 m, 14 Bolts, FA Tim Emmett 2003 It‘s safer to share the first few meters of Licence to Climb rather than climbing the brittle rock at the base of the original route.

A climber with good endurance will cruise through an amazing sequence of pinches to the high crux. The last 3 metres of the climb become difficult, requiring good technique, intuition, and a hidden reserve of power.

Oh, it’s also a bit run out.

4. PHOTO SOLO NO MORE - 5b 12 m, 4 Bolts, FA Unknown Smear up the slab for some amazing photos.

Don’t underestimate the slab! Wear climbing shoes and bring gear to rappel.

2

3

1

4

89

108 PYRAMID CAVE

1

2

3

4

5

Pyramid Cave, or Hang Dam, is a perfectly pyramidical cave. Its few lines tend to be too hard for DWS beginners. Visiting is worth the basket boat ride if only for Ha Long Nights.

Pyramid Cave is also conveniently located beside Stingray Wall, which has several easier lines. This area was first explored by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve and Grant Farquhar, who recorded climbs 3 to 5.

Swim through the tunnel at the back of the cave to find a hidden lagoon, but make sure to check tides– you could be trapped inside or find it tricky to swim against the current.

CLIMBING: All climbs are very steep, following natural weaknesses such as tufas and cracks. Falls are clean and the water deep enough at tides higher than two metres. Start holds can be hard to reach at tides below 2.5 metres. The cave receives afternoon sun and is completely sheltered from rain. Tufa climbs 3 and 4 may be wet after prolonged rainfall.

In this area, rangers may approach your boat and ask for payment of a National Park fee.

75

W

6

7

GETTING THERE: See access directions for Unemployment Wall. Pyramid Cave lies just across the channel.

1. BROTHER PAT - 6a+ 2. BROTHER OLI - 7c 3. WHITE POWDER, GREEN LIGHT - 7b+ 16 m - The harder version of Ha Long Nights.

4. HA LONG NIGHTS - 7a+ 16 m - Amazing climb. Make like a langur while swinging from one tufa to another.

5. BLOOD BATH - 7b+ 6. HANOI TANKS - 7a+ 8 m - Start on a beautiful and athletic sequence of huecos.

7. PROJECT - ?

10 m - Climb and report!

Joe Brooks on Ballooning Around - 7b+ in Le Mekong 1947, p 116. Š Brian Solano.

115

HA LONG BAY’S MOST COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE FOR

ROCK CLIMBING AND DEEP WATER SOLO - The region’s first updated climbing guidebook since 2008 - 72 sport climbing routes on 3 crags on Cat Ba Island - 58 sport climbing routes on 10 crags in the bay - 239 deep water solo routes on 24 crags - Travel information for getting to Cat Ba Island - Ha Long Bay rock climbing history - Cat Ba Island hotels, restaurants, bars and places of interest - Recommended rest day activities -