9 minute read
Defying gravity: Niagara’s Stratus Vineyards is more than just a sustainable winery
Defying gravity
Niagara’s Stratus Vineyards is more than just a sustainable winery
By Shayna Wiwierski
Stratus Vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, official opened their doors in 2005. That same year, they became the first fully LEED-certified winery in the world.
Although design seems to be the centerpiece at Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Stratus Vineyards, form follows function as the design is actually the catalyst to preserve the authenticity of the vineyard. Although design seems to be the centerpiece at Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Stratus Vineyards, form follows function as the design is actually the catalyst to preserve the authenticity of the vineyard. Although design seems to be the centerpiece at Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Stratus Vineyards, form follows function as the design is actually the catalyst to preserve the authenticity of the vineyard.
The Niagara vineyard and winery officially opened its doors in 2005 and sits on 62 acres near the southeastern border of the Niagara lakeshore sub-appellation. They grow 16 different varieties of grapes, 10 red and six white, thanks to soil that is stratified and diversified, allowing the roots to go deeper and being able to extract and express more complexity. The winery itself is a low-energy, adaptable state-ofthe-art facility that produces the best possible wine, but in the smallest The Niagara vineyard and winery officially opened its doors in 2005 and sits on 62 acres near the southeastern border of the Niagara lakeshore sub-appellation. They grow 16 different varieties of grapes, 10 red and six white, thanks to soil that is stratified and diversified, allowing the roots to go deeper and being able to extract and express more complexity. The winery itself is a low-energy, adaptable state-ofthe-art facility that produces the best possible wine, but in the smallest The Niagara vineyard and winery officially opened its doors in 2005 and sits on 62 acres near the southeastern border of the Niagara lakeshore sub-appellation. They grow 16 different varieties of grapes, 10 red and six white, thanks to soil that is stratified and diversified, allowing the roots to go deeper and being able to extract and express more complexity. The winery itself is a low-energy, adaptable state-ofthe-art facility that produces the best possible wine, but in the smallest possible environmental impact. In fact, Stratus became the first fully LEED-certified winery in the world in 2005. possible environmental impact. In fact, Stratus became the first fully LEED-certified winery in the world in 2005. possible environmental impact. In fact, Stratus became the first fully LEED-certified winery in the world in 2005.
“The design of the winery is exceptional, it’s built with durable materials, and if you look at the outside, it’s covered with clear cedar and pure wood,” says Jean-Laurent (J-L) Groux, winemaker. “Inside is galvanized, it’s not rusting and will last a long time. It was an important part of David Feldberg’s [owner of Stratus Vineyards and president and CEO of Teknion, a successful office furniture design company in Toronto] vision as well.” “The design of the winery is exceptional, it’s built with durable materials, and if you look at the outside, it’s covered with clear cedar and pure wood,” says Jean-Laurent (J-L) Groux, winemaker. “Inside is galvanized, it’s not rusting and will last a long time. It was an important part of David Feldberg’s [owner of Stratus Vineyards and president and CEO of Teknion, a successful office furniture design company in Toronto] vision as well.” “The design of the winery is exceptional, it’s built with durable materials, and if you look at the outside, it’s covered with clear cedar and pure wood,” says Jean-Laurent (J-L) Groux, winemaker. “Inside is galvanized, it’s not rusting and will last a long time. It was an important part of David Feldberg’s [owner of Stratus Vineyards and president and CEO of Teknion, a successful office furniture design company in Toronto] vision as well.”
Perhaps the most unique part of the winery is how they actually make the wine. Stratus doesn’t use pumps, but rather a process where the wine Perhaps the most unique part of the winery is how they actually make the wine. Stratus doesn’t use pumps, but rather a process where the wine Perhaps the most unique part of the winery is how they actually make the wine. Stratus doesn’t use pumps, but rather a process where the wine is moved by gravity thanks to a fourstorey tank elevator which moves the wine without pumping. The wine flows naturally through gravity, from stainless-steel or oak fermenters into carefully selected French oak barrels. is moved by gravity thanks to a fourstorey tank elevator which moves the wine without pumping. The wine flows naturally through gravity, from stainless-steel or oak fermenters into carefully selected French oak barrels. is moved by gravity thanks to a fourstorey tank elevator which moves the wine without pumping. The wine flows naturally through gravity, from stainless-steel or oak fermenters into carefully selected French oak barrels.
The grapes start their journey from the highest part of the winery to the lowest. The wines are made without intervention; it’s a natural process as they merely coax the grapes, letting them make the wine on their own. The grapes start their journey from the highest part of the winery to the lowest. The wines are made without intervention; it’s a natural process as they merely coax the grapes, letting them make the wine on their own. The grapes start their journey from the highest part of the winery to the lowest. The wines are made without intervention; it’s a natural process as they merely coax the grapes, letting them make the wine on their own.
The idea to use gravity-based winemaking came from Groux who hails from France and studied in Burgundy. After travelling the world, he ended up in Canada in 1989 and has worked in the local industry for 15 years. During a stint at Andrew Peller and seeing some gravity-based work there, he dreamed of having The idea to use gravity-based winemaking came from Groux who hails from France and studied in Burgundy. After travelling the world, he ended up in Canada in 1989 and has worked in the local industry for 15 years. During a stint at Andrew Peller and seeing some gravity-based work there, he dreamed of having The idea to use gravity-based winemaking came from Groux who hails from France and studied in Burgundy. After travelling the world, he ended up in Canada in 1989 and has worked in the local industry for 15 years. During a stint at Andrew Peller and seeing some gravity-based work there, he dreamed of having
Stratus doesn’t use pumps, but rather a process where the wine is moved by gravity thanks to a four-storey tank elevator which moves the wine without pumping.
Jean-Laurent (J-L) Groux, winemaker at Stratus, hails from France and studied in Burgundy. During a stint at Andrew Peller and seeing some gravitybased work there, he dreamed of having something much more advanced, so he brought the concept to Stratus.
The wines are made without intervention; it’s a natural process as they merely coax the grapes, letting them make the wine on their own.
“A great technique to make wine is not to touch it. The most important part is the vineyard and the grapes already in the vineyard. [By doing this technique] it’s less intrinsic on the grapes, as the grapes start at the top and then cascade down into the barrel room,” says Groux, who adds that most wineries use pumps, however, they use an elevator from the lowest part of the winery to the highest part to renew gravity. “It makes a big difference in the quality of the wine. If you pump it, shovel it, or bruise it, it loses flavours and quality. It’s an old concept of moving wine in a gentle way. It’s the traditional way to make great wines.”
The grapes are hand-picked and brought in using individual 40-pound baskets. They are then double-sorted by first putting them on a vibrating sorting table, passing a number of hand sorters per table, who take out the damaged grapes, which are recycled in the vineyard’s compost. The grapes are then separated from their stems and fall onto a second sorting table, where more people pick out the grapes that show signs of rotting, under ripeness, or other irregularities.
“Wine comes from the earth, so the livelihood is based on the health of the land,” says Suzanne Janke, estate director at Stratus Vineyards. “Everything we do, we try to
True to their word, they recently started implementing a method called biochar, where they repurpose vineyard waste, in turn benefiting the vineyard and environment. Since the winery has a lot of vine cuttings and trunks to dispose of every year, instead of burning them, they heat the biomass (the vine trunks) in an oxygen-limited environment. As a result, they get a finely grained, highly porous charcoal which can be used as an amendment to improve soil structure.
Although the environment plays a huge part in the operation of the winery, it also is one of the challenges. Groux mentions that climate change is a double-edged sword, as the warmer climate is beneficial to the vineyard and the grapes, however, it’s been bringing different diseases than they have ever had. Janke mentions that keeping up with consumer demand has been tough as well, but that’s a good challenge to have.
“[We’ve been working very hard to make progress] on being able to ship wine across Canada without any barriers,” says Janke. “It’s important to talk about the challenges, but also say that we are in the healthiest position we have ever been in in terms of awareness and respect for the vineyard and local production. Millennials are loving the shift into wine culture and have been openminded and very favourable towards Canadian wineries. There are challenges, but we’ve never been in a better place either.”
Want to learn more about Stratus Vineyards? Download the Crush magazine app, available on both the Apple and Google Play stores. o
Aside from the unique way of actually making the wine, the winery itself features a number of sustainable factors, such as incorporating recycled materials into the design, a superinsulated roof and geothermal heating and cooling, and more.
