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DENIMDUDES DENIM DIRECTORY SS23/24
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SEASONAL STORIES + EMERGING TECHNOLOGY + MARKET DRIVERS + FULL VENDOR DIRECTORY
INDEX SS23/24
UNSPUN BODY SCAN TECH
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Fabric Trends 23
SFI WASH DEVELOPMENT
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Mill Directory 79
SAITEX MILL VIETNAM USING SMART INDIGO ©DENIMDUDES, 2022
Market Drivers 04
COTTON ATMOSINCORPORATED
RECYCLED CONTENT MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
According to the 2020 Dutch Denim Deal, by 2023 brand and mill participants aim to include at least 5% recycled content in all denim categories whilst collectively producing a total of 3 million pieces containing a minimum of 20% post consumer recycled cotton in a bid to make post-consumer cotton an industry standard. In pursuit of a more circular future, we’ve witnessed mills and brands stepping up their game over the last few seasons, joining the Dutch Denim Deal and folding recycled content into many of their fabrics. Understanding the di erent qualities, properties and challenges will help to navigate this complex world and enable choices that tackle the waste in our industry. These are the 5 main types of recycled content to look out for:
• Post-industrial cotton waste (ie: waste
• Recycled Polyester (ie: Polyester recycled
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from existing materials) This is commonly listed as either RPES: conventional recycled polyester or RPET: recycled polyester sourced from plastic bottles sometimes listed as Repreve® by Unify. Recycled Elastane (GRS approved recycled stretch bres) This is commonly listed as Eco Made Lycra®, Lycra® T400 Eco Made, or Roica™ EF that uses 58% pre-consumer recycled content.
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gathered from the mill) This is mostly listed as PIW, Pre Consumer waste or Reused Cotton. If you see a high percentage of recycled cotton, chances are its from mill stage. Post-consumer cotton (ie: waste from used denim jeans that is mechanically recycled) This is commonly listed as PCW. Recycled man-made cellulosic bres (ie: waste from used clothing thats chemically recycled) This is a new and expanding area, commonly listed under the bre names REFIBRA™ (30% chemically recycled post consumer waste) and Circulose® (100% post consumer waste).
ATMOS
RECYCLED CONTENT
BOSSA SL1360 / 49% REFIBRA™, 37% RECYCLED COTTON, 13% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 1 RECYCLED ELASTANE
MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Bossa proves stretch denim can be extremely waste-conscious with their combination of sustainable ingredients. Re bra™ is a regenerated cellulosic bre made from blended wood pulp from sustainably managed forests combined with cellulose pulp from PCW. The introduction of recycled polys and elastanes as used here, means that both stretch and added strength can be waste-neutral too. As regenerated cellulosic bres are becoming more commonly used we expect to see these kind of fabrics transform the denim market over coming years. Soorty’s ‘Harmless’ fabric quality combines REFIBRA™ with Circulose®; another leading circular focussed bre, using 100% chemically recycled content. The introduction of chemical recycling doesn’t mean that mechanical recycling isn’t still extremely relevant and AGI are perfecting their capabilities season on season. Their 100% recycled quality combines the highest possible amount of PCW cotton with their mill’s PIW cotton.
SOORTY HARMLESS / 50% REFIBRA™™™, 50% CIRCULOSE®
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AGI DENIM 17848 / 70% PIW COTTON, 30% PCW COTTON
@BUAISOU
INDIGO INOVATIONS MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Indigo dyeing is a resource intensive and often wasteful stage of the denim making process. Mills have been on a mission to turn that around for several seasons, with signi cant breakthroughs year on year. Singling out and combatting harmful ingredients or processes is an ongoing journey and tackling indigo dyeing in particular is a truly collaborative process across the supply chain with mills and suppliers all putting their brains behind better techniques. Key innovations in this area include:
• Smart-Indigo™ by Sedo Engineering uses an
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indigo dye conversation due to its synthetic alternative that overtook mass production in the early 20th century. However, Stony Creek Colors is bringing the conversation on natural indigo full circle with their new pre-reduced natural indigo, IndiGold™. Indigo Coating, indigo is applied in a dispersed form, coating the top of the weave, done in fabric form not the yarn stage TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology eliminates the warp yarn dye process as pigment is added at the ber stage.
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electrochemical process fed directly into the dye bath meaning only water, electricity, caustic soda and indigo pigment are used, greatly reducing the exposure to chemicals for workers and ecosystems. Dystar® Indigo Vat 40% Solution and ecoadvanced reducing agent Sera® Con-CRDA creates a salt-free, (Cadira® Denim) hydrosulphite-free dye. Achroma Aniline-Free Indigo, Denisol® Pure Indigo 30, enables indigo dyed denim with signi cantly reduced levels of aniline.
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• Natural Indigo has long been lost in the
INDIGO DYE VAT
INDIGO INOVATIONS
THE DOGWOOD DYER X STONY CREEK COLORS
MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24 In collaboration with Stony Creek Colors, Cone Denim is the rst mill to utilize USA grown natural indigo in scaled fabric production. In a recent partnership between Fashion for Good, Levis and Stony Creek, the three companies announced plans to scale up the use of IndiGold™, new pre-reduced form of natural Indigo, estimated to enter the market in late 2022. Stony Creek is now in the process of having mills perform trial runs under a number of di erent indigo dye methods using IndiGold™. With sustainability in mind, the new Saitex Mill is using the Smart-Indigo system to develop hydrosul te-free indigo dyebaths that only use indigo pigment, caustic soda, water and electricity. The Smart-Indigo™ system utilizes an electrochemical dyebath preparation that emits less carbon dioxide, consumes less energy, and less water where the only waste product is oxygen due to Saitex’s advanced water recycling system.
SAITEX FABRIC / 1019SDRA SMART INDIGO
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CONE DENIM 16% PURE INDIGO BY STONY CREEK COLORS
DIESEL PRE-FALL 2022
MULTI-FUCTIONAL MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Getting the most out of our denim fabrics is more important than ever. Brands and consumers continue to look for multi-functional fabrics and garments, combining the best of sustainability, longevity, and design versatility. Rigid and stretch qualities that can navigate di erent product categories, occasions, trends and cater to genderless and season-less design are in increasingly high demand.
• Garment life extension comes in many
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consumers, interest in multi purpose garments are trending. Soorty has launched several collections geared towards seasonless and versatile garment design, this season tapping a post consumer recycled cotton, traditional cotton and elastane blend, capable of extreme wash downs and laser friendly properties (PAGE 53) Sustainable aspects are no longer just an option but an expectation. Incorporating sustainable aspects and options into to popular fabric qualities is best exempli ed through Naveena Denim Mills’ range of fabrics that enable brands to add in the sustainable attributes most important to them.
forms as designers take the garment’s entire lifecycle into consideration. Adding strengthening bers such as Dyneema® and nylon (a type of polyamide) as well as trans-seasonal attributes such as Sorbtek® and TruTemp365®, both by Uni , mills add physical and invisible value to their fabrics. Innovative chemical producers Garmon and Rudolf use smarter chemistry to both aid the supply chain and production process and preserve garment integrity after purchase. Rudolf’s Washless concept reduces the need for at home washes, adding both sustainable value and longevity. Garmon’s Smart Foam tech acts as a sustainable low water application for a variety of laundry processes. ©DENIMDUDES, 2022
• As spending is tightened by brands and
DNM DENIM / LAXFORD MYSTICBLUE (MENS WASH)
MULTI-FUCTIONAL
DNM DENIM / LAXFORD MYSTICBLUE (WOMENS WASH)
MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
DMN Denim explores trans-seasonal, genderless denim fabrications through a cotton and lyocell blend for authentic and versatile wash down capabilities with enhanced comfort and handfeel. Pangaia recently collaborated with Candiani for their revolutionary unisex, nettle denim collection, which was also treated with the antimicrobial and freshening nish, PPRMINT™ in order to fold in more value. Naveena NDL taps the strength of Dyneema® bre blends for an authentic, fashion denim weave with added abrasion resistance, extending the life of the garment. PANGAIA X UNSPUN UNISEX, ANTIMICROBIAL CUSTOM MADE DENIM
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NAVEENA NDL / NDL-5451-A-01 DYNEEMA BLEND
ALEXANDRA SIPA
DIGITAL DENIM MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
• Multi-vendor online sourcing platforms are
• Another new E-com member, Finesse
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on the rise as companies race to ll a gap in the market, while supply chain companies invest in building out their own web based digitized fabric libraries. Material Exchange, Swatchon, Foursource and Cottonworks online sourcing platforms are just a few of the platforms aiming to connect suppliers with buyers. Virtual fashion platform Zero10 o ers a digital fashion service for brands wanting to get in on the movement, partnering with brands such as Barragan and Kseina Schnaider to o er digital versions of some of the brands most popular designs.
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Studios is combining the allure of drop culture with digital design geared towards young, fast fashion Gen Z shoppers. All products presented as digital renderings open for pre-order, reducing production cost and overstock inventory, while further propelling consumers interaction with digital garments in a unique way. Tommy Hil ger folded digitally rendered design into their remit a few years ago and has since made their software, Stitch 3D, available to brands outside PVH. It includes digital asset libraries (for fabrics, trims and completed designs) and enables teams to design, present and review collections in a visually compelling environment.
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Digitally enabled industry tools are becoming increasingly common solutions to challenges brought on by the pandemic and environmental concerns. Virtual showrooms and sourcing platforms, 3D design rendering and garments that exist solely in a digital realm are on the increase, with many brands and mills investing in this exploding market. Fabricant and Carlings were amongst the rst to bring digital clothing to consumers, a concept now reaching the mainstream. As the virtual world continues to in uence the physical, both technically and aesthetically, we see technology and garment design merge. Opposite is Alexandra Sipa’s “Denim Jacket.”, made for the brand’s rst collection from 100% discarded electrical wires.
STELLA BLU DIGITALLY PRODUCED FABRIC SWATCH
DIGITAL DENIM
TRIBUTE BRAND VIRTUAL DENIM GOWN
MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Soorty was one of the rst mills to explore digital product solutions with their ‘Impossible Jean” back in 2018 in collaboration with The Fabricant, now they’re back with a new rendition of virtual clothing in collaboration with Solomon from Left Hand Twill. Stella Blu is rolling out completely digitized fabric swatches, compatible with 3D design programs, enabling designers to explore how their fabrics will react in a proposed silhouette before any physical fabric purchase. Tribute Brand and Finesse studios are bringing digital denim to the consumer-facing side of the industry.
FINESSE STUDIOS, 100% COTTON “AMELIA DENIM JACKET’
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SOORTY X LEFT HAND TWILL
@PHOTOGRAPHERHAL
SAFER SYNTHETICS MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
When we hear the words ‘man made’ or ‘chemical’ we assume this equals bad. The truth is, everything in nature is chemistry and some man made bres and fabrics are less harmful to the environment than we think. Mills and bre companies are trying to tackle the more damaging synthetic bres in our denim world such as PET polyester and elastane, creating them from recycled materials or exploring the ability for them to degrade in nature. While the real goal is to use and consume less, western societies’ consumerist nature is compelling companies to nd new avenues for waste repurposing and reduction in regards to synthetic bers.
• Synthetic bres are still needed for
• Several bre additive solutions are enabling synthetics to degrade once garments are discarded. CiCLO® is an additive that allows the biodegration of PET polyesters whilst Roica™ V550 (Asahi) is an elastane with some biodegradable properties. Both are examples of plastic based bres that act more like natural or regenerated cellulose if garments end up in land ll.
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technical and performance denims so using recycled, pre or post consumer content is key. LYCRA® EcoMade elastane uses 20% GRS certi ed pre-consumer industrial waste by recirculating the bres back into production for new yarns without compromising bre performance. Recycled PET polyesters are made from upcycled plastic bottles, diverting mass amounts of waste from land lls.
KILIM / D6956: 74.5% Organic Cotton, 24.2% Post Consumer Waste, 1.3% V550
SAFER SYNTHETICS MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Another innovative form of application for plastic bottle waste has been engineered by Rudolf. From their CYCLE-LOGIC® concept comes the dispersing agent RUCOGEN® UPCYCLE RNB replaces traditional oil based agents used in all denim garment washing. Kilim uses 24.2% post consumer cotton blended with organic cotton and ROICA™ V550, for a teal toned comfort stretch. Cone Denim implements both CiCLO® and ROICA™ V550 yarns in their authentic look, stretch fabric. Everlane have begun to implement these ber innovations in small collections, whereas are Boyish Jeans has invested in it for all their stretch fabrications.
EVERLANE / 55% ORGANIC COTTON, 25% VISCOSE, 18% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 2% ELASTANE
RUDOLF 20-136 / CYCLE-LOGIC, RUCOGEN UPCYCLED RNB
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CONE DENIM / 9153J 87% COTTON, 11% CiCLO® , 2% ROICA™ V550
INDUSTRY ALIGNMENTS MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
In an industry full of complex supply chains, in a time where exclusive collaborations reign supreme, inter-industry alignments pre and post product, are being explored with more transparency than ever before. From multi-branded collaborations to exclusive supply chain partnerships, the pooling of resources, technology and industry information is necessary for impactful change and meaningful product creation.
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announce their latest venture ‘ISKO Future Face™ by Soorty’ using the weaving technology from Isko and vertical manufacturing capabilities of Soorty for the rst ever collaboration of its kind, geared towards the American market. New regenerative and recycled bre innovations are getting backing by some of the largest names in fashion, such as H&M’s increasing stake in Renewcell, the innovative chemical recycling company, and Levi’s use of their Circulose® ber in newly manufactured 501® styles.
• As the supply chain takes increasing responsibility to improve their environmental impact and open up their visibility, brands are gravitating towards leading manufacturers or mills in order to deepen their sustainable storytelling. The highly anticipated Yeezy Gap collaboration took yet another left turn when Balenciaga recently joined the mix. After its launch, SFI from Los Angeles publicly shared the news that it was their factory behind the development and production of the collection.
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• Late last year Isko and Soorty teamed up to
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YEEZY GAP ENGINEERED BY BALENCIAGA / PRODUCED BY STAR FADES INTERNATIONAL
ISKO FUTURE FACE BY SOORTY
INDUSTRY ALIGNMENTS
SOORTY USING GARMON SMART FOAM
MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Supporting progress in other sectors of the industry is essential for change making. Wrangler paired with In nited Fiber in their latest sustainable collection released late last year, whilst also incorporating their Indigood™ foam dye program. Behind the scenes there are countless product alignments that don’t get press coverage but have huge impacts on denim development. Many companies involved in denim garment production and nishing utilise Garmon Chemicals’ Smart Foam technology for an array of more ecologically minded wash and nishing techniques. Cone Denim has been a long time supporter of Stoney Creek Colors natural indigo, now backed by Fashion for Good and Levi’s.
INFINTED FIBER X WRANGLER
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WRANGLER X INFINTED FIBER
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CONE DENIM USING NATURAL INDIGO FROM STONY CREEK COLORS
SKY HIGH WORKWEAR
FARM TO RETAIL MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Most customers don’t walk into a denim store and ask where the cotton was grown… but that approach in retail is starting to change. As technology drives traceability, accountability within the supply chain is stepping up and mills are choosing more considered raw materials from an ethical, geographical and sustainable standpoint. From cotton tracing to farming practices, carbon footprint to raw material attributes, smarter choices are being made all the way from seed to shelf.
forensic veri cation of cotton traceability with Oritain™ since September 2020 and we’ve seen an uptick in Organic and BCI cotton used this season across the board. The conversation may have started with concerns over Xinjiang cotton and modern slavery but the complex cotton world is receiving increasing attention from concerned consumers. Proximity and location was paramount when Vidalia mills opened their American mill and manufacturing facility in 2019, just 5 minutes down the road from the nearest cotton farm, meaning ‘farm to jean’ can be achieved in a 30 mile radius.
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• Saitex’s approach to farming and community goes one step further than most: their vegetable garden covers 40% of the total site to feed workers and local communities and they have o set their carbon emissions by planting 50 hectares of mangroves in Vietnam. Considering the raw bre of your fabric can get more in-depth than you think. Pangaia recently launched its nettle denim program in collaboration with Candiani Denim and Himalayan Wild Fibres. Nettle is grown wild in the forests of Nepal and the growers have dramatically improved the reforestation of the Himalayas. The social and environmental bene ts of using this bre are exciting. ©DENIMDUDES, 2022
• Cone Denim was the rst denim mill to o er
KIPAS NETTLE DENIM
FARM TO RETAIL MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Indian mill, Arvind are exploring the latest sustainable bre movement; Circular Systems™ Agraloop™ BioFibre™. This agricultural-led initiative mindfully converts leftovers from food and medicine industries into natural bre products. Agraloop™ BioFibre™ is highly re ned 100% natural ber made from oilseed, and other low-value crop-residues from agriculture production. Agraloop™ BioFibre™ can also be blended with other natural or regenerated bers. Turkish mill Kipas have also tapped the bene ts of Nettle in their past collections, for its elongation properties that naturally provide comfort and its ability to grow abundantly without irrigation or pesticides. Wrangler are getting deep with their supply chain, insisting on no-till farming, crop rotation and cover cropping. They sponsor research into innovative new farming practices and education programs and tell their farmer’s stories on their website. Each cotton farm and family is linked to and end product, tying real people to real product.
SIMPLY SUZETTE
WRANGLER REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE
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ARVIND ARGRA LOOP
NOUGHTIES MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
Gen-Z’s a nity towards the naughties trend has progressed from a Tik Tok aesthetic to a full blown movement faster than many had anticipated, continuing to draw inspirations from the early to mid 2000’s. The return of super slubby weaves, extreme washes and nishing, lower rise, baggy and boot cut silhouettes are de ning the new-age naughties revival. From ironic, statement styling to high fashion, directional interpretations of the decade continue to explore this era through a new lens.
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the 00’s are bright green casts and grey casts, cementing the stubby textures into the early oughts. The “Indie Sleeze” trend is also a main driver in this resurgence. Brands like Just Cavalli, Blumarine and Diesel that thrived in the 00’s, are celebrating their archives and repackaging their iconic looks back into the marketplace. The amount of denim looks on the red carpet in the past year along with Kanye and Julia Fox’s recent appearance in a mod take on the Canadian Tux is propelling the intermix of casual wear and designer denim.
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tones are becoming a popularized characteristic thanks to second hand and vintage revivals. Mills are taping into their archival weave structures from the early 2000’s as brands explore new ways to texturize their product o erings beyond classic orange peel and salt and pepper character. Dramatic PP spray e ects are achieved using kinder-chemicals and biodegradable PP replacements. Overdyes and dirty tints are also achieved using more ecologically sound methods.
• Playing further into the updated aesthetics of
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ANNA ISABELLA FW22
ISKO RIGID NEW ORIGIN #4 29% COTTON, 27% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 22% PRE-CONSUMER RECYCLED COTTON, 22% POST-CONSUMER RECYCLED COTTON
NOUGHTIES
US DENIM ‘TIFFANY BLUE’ OVERDYE
MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
As seasoned brands go back through their archives, denim newcomers like Telfar, Eytys and Knwls are giving a refreshed feel to their aughties inspired ranges. Eytys exempli es this with their dirty green overdyes and exaggerated airbrushed fading while maintaining modern silhouettes. Mills are responding with their US Denim plays into the story with a turquoise toned over dyed quality. Isko presents a super slubby character with over 70% recycled ingredients.
DIESEL FW22
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EYTYS FW22
SAITEX USA
FUTURE MANUFACTURING MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24 We are on the cusp of a new manufacturing era, spearheaded by the amount of disruption in the market over recent years. A wave of new facilities have opened, focussing on better practices, social responsibility, increased e ciency and sustainability. Saitex led the way with their famously innovative factory in Vietnam, notably tapped by sustainable trailblazers, Everlane and G-Star. They’ve since targeted the local LA market by opening up a hub in Los Angeles, followed by a mill in Vietnam this year. Artistic Milliners followed suit with their SFI operation in LA; connecting the dots between their fabrics and clients with sustainable local solutions. This new wave of manufacturing hubs using cutting edge technology is reshaping the way our jeans are made.
e ciently and supply chain giants to have better control on the environmental impact of their products, allowing for better transparency and consistent quality control, all with a smaller carbon footprint. Mills like AGI, Crescent Bahuman, Soorty, Artistic Milliners, and Indigo Garments have recognised the bene ts in synergy within their operations. New manufacturing facilities o er a glimpse into the future of jean-making hubs as owners rebuild old systems from scratch using state of the art machinery and fresh, disruptive approaches. MK Sons recently set up in Pakistan, close to a network of leading mills. SFI and Saitex opened in LA to be close to their brands. Jeanologia set up their Smartlab in New York in 2021, as an experimental micro-laundry for American clients.
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• Although there his no singular, industry wide measures of garment impact, technology and machinery based companies are devising their own ways to help manufacturers using their equipment to trace a garments overall impact. Jeanologia’s EIM scores and Tonello’s Metro software, provide accurate and real-time data or easy to understand scoring systems to understand and improve laundry performance. In February 2022, the Ellen McCarthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign Guide (a movement aiming to transition the industry to a circular economy) reached 100 participants. Challenging our industry to unite towards common goals pushes brands, mills and manufacturers forward and holds them accountable.
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• Vertical integration allow brands to source more
DESERT STUDIO DUBAI LAUNDRY
FUTURE MANUFACTURING MARKET DRIVERS SS23/24
SFI, backed by its parent company Artistic Milliners, are part of the reshoring movement, bringing sustainably minded manufacturing back to the USA. Their upgraded facilities have attracted the likes of LA up and comers like EB Denim to exclusive collaborative collections, most recently Yeezy Gap Engineered by Balenciaga range. Unspun was founded in Elizabeth Esponnette, Kevin Martin and Walden Lam. Industry disruptors, they founded as a ‘robotics and digital apparel company’ who make jeans, rather than a jeans company trying to embrace technology. Their on-demand denim manufacturing is achieved using their own custom software and production methods. and their technology uses algorithms to digitally design and t jeans around their customer’s 3D avatar.
UNSPUN 3D BODY FIT SCANNING
TOMMY HILFIGER JEANS RE-DESIGN
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MK SONS DENIM FACILITY IN PAKISTAN
