The Denim Directory, Surface, SS22

DENIM DIRECTORY

ect with nature, how we connect with the brands and companies we buy from and how we connect with ourselves. This year has universally deepened that connection.

SS2022

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M A R K E T D R I V E R : S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

Sustainability is at the heart of our work as an industry, and mills are putting all their resources and expertise behind eco-driven solutions. Moving towards a cleaner future is essential, and uniting consumer, brand and supply chain is imperative. That’s where communication comes in! We’ve outlined our overview of the key innovations in sustainability below.

C I R C U L A R F U T U R E

B E T T E R

Artist i c M i l l i ne r s

A r v i n d G 2 O zone Tech

Circular design involves more than recycled denim. Mills are tackling the subject head-on, using biodegradable fibres, toxic-free ingredients and investing in tech to create new denim from old. Think beyond denim insulation!

So many mills are focusing their attention on their indigo dye processes, we had trouble mentioning them all.

Less water, kinder chemicals, dry processes, laserfriendly applications and so much more.

Turn to page 26, 27, 28, 29 and 54 for more.

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Collect Banana Denim

Cone D e n i m x O r i t a i n

Natural fibres are everything this season.

From hemp blends to corn fibre, the focus is on playing to the natural strengths of the yarn and blending contrasting qualities to perfection.

Demand for accurate and honest sourcing is on the rise from both consumer and industry alike. Mills are taking the responsibility upon themselves to provide certifiable, traceable and transparent product origin verifications.

Turn to pages 7, 11, 18, 30, 31, 32, 33 and 34 for more.

Expect more seasons but 40, 68, 76, for now.

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S T A N D A R D S & C E R T I F I C A T I O N

O R G A N I C O R I G I N S

Neela Blue ‘Revive Denim’

The New Denim Project

With minimal industrywide set standards, organizations are often left with the responsibility of implementing and maintaining ethical and sustainable supply chain practices.

Certifications are one way to increase responsible supply chain communication.

Whilst there are more conscious chemicals out there (page 4), the industry is realizing that our mass manufacturing has used scalable techniques that have done more harm than good. From genetically modified yarns to chemical use and treatments, going natural is part of the solution.

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The engineers and experts at our leading denim mills are doing some pretty sophisticated work around fibre and yarn, in order to push denim into the new world. What struck us this season was the amount of innovation that is invisible until you look ‘under the hood’ at the compositions. Below are the key takeaways:

R E N E W A B L E C E L L U L O S E

R E G E N E R A T I V E C E L L U L O S I C S

K ilim L y o c e l l bl e n d

R e n e w c e l l x Levi’s

Cellulose fibres derived from plantbased materials are rapidly renewable, low maintenance, and require fewer chemicals during cultivation.

Many mills have been using cellulose fibres for years, but blended with recycled cotton of hemp, they are becoming a mill’s best friend.

Cellulose fibres throughout report!

DENIM

A huge subject thats set to explode over the next few years; this new fibre group often shows up in compositions as lyocell. But cellulose man-made from recycled waste is the key to a circular future.

Expect more seasons but 27 & 28 for

in future check pages now.

P L A N T - B A S E D

C O N S I D E R E D B L E N D S

R E C Y C L E D

@designcampinmybasement

AGI D e n i m 5 0 % H e m p

More than ever, mills are looking to nature, analyzing its true benefits and making less impactful decisions in harnessing its potential. With this more considerate approach, we are seeing the agricultural world work more closely with fibre and mill companies and denim compositions diversify.

Working with nature’s strengths is at the heart of this season’s focus. The dry, crispy hand of linen, the softness and fluidity of Tencel, the character and nep of hemp and the handfeel of modal all work in unison to support and compliment each other.

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Vicunha Eco Forest As mills strive towards a more circular future, recycled yarn development becomes more sophisticated.

Mills such as Vicunha and AGI Denim have their own in-house mechanical recycling operations and intelligent yarn design strives to integrate recycled denim into every quality.

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I N V I S I B L E V A L U E Calik CBD Denim Fibres are being meticulously considered for their innate benefits for the end consumer. From antibacterial to moisture wicking, to strength and durability and even wellbeing, denim has never been more thoughtful.

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M A R K E T D R I V E R : T E C H N O L O G Y

Adding value to our fabrics not only makes them more appealing to the end consumer, but it also tackles the problem of garment waste and landfill.

Technology is the source of more efficient and creative design. Mills explore fibres, finishes and garment versatility in order to make the humble jean a much-valued wardrobe item that doesn’t end up in the ground. And if it does, there’s a solution for that too.

C O N S C I O U S C H E M I C A L S

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M A C H I N E R Y

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P E R F O R M A C E

D I G I T A L

Offici n a + 3 9 B i o Marble

A r c h r o m a E a rth Colours

Tonello UP

DNM ‘ E l g o n ’

ISKO x Ripton

Paras Gupta

Jeans need machines!

But, as with all elements of the supply chain, everything is under scrutiny. Using machinery to instill sustainability into the denim process is front and centre of innovation for 2022.

Investing is key.

New stretch tech explores shape and contouring, flexible sizing, second skin, incredible softness and comfort, high elasticity and improved recovery.

As explored on the fibres page, mills are tapping strength and durability, moisture wicking and temperature control, antimicrobial qualities, and even health and wellness benefits in order to add value to their denims.The jean of the future is gonna do a whole lot more!

Harmful chemicals are sadly used all across the denim supply chain and eliminating, improving and perfecting them is a challenge. But the use of certain chemical processes can actually help us achieve a more sustainable and efficient future.

Turn 53 &

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to pages 51, 54 for more.

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Natural dyestuffs, less chemicals, smarter techniques, waterless processes… mills are using safer ingredients and improving their inhouse systems and machinery to continually improve how they dye their denim.

Turn to pages 8, 34, 39 and 45 for

9, more.

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3D Denim is the future and has been referred to as the most ethical and sustainable denim out there. 3D design eliminates mass waste and excess through the production process and enables designers to make the most logical fabric and garment pairings based on fabric properties and garment performance.

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ect with nature, how we connect with the brands and companies we buy from and how we connect with ourselves. This year has universally deepened that connection.

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In previous seasons, we have looked at the past to inspire and inform the future: old archives, vintage weaves and age-old characteristics. But as Generation Z’s influence starts to take hold and technological advances explode in the market, we see those archives re-worked through a fresh lens.Future Heritage explores a younger, smarter, more sustainable take on the past, rather than an homage or replication.

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Tired Laundry

Acne

Sustainability, comfort, technology and modernity help to re-package our denim archives with future-friendly fabrics. A strong ‘80s sentiment drives character, whilst those classic orangepeel aspects are re-created using innovative new fibre blends that benefit both people and planet. As aesthetics remain core, value is added through tactility, softness and fluidity. Even purist denim heads are adopting a comfort stretch that isn’t seen, but felt.

FUTURE HERITAGE looks like the real thing but tastes better.

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Fair Season

Na v e e n a / B o s s a / O r t a / H a n t ex

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Sometimes the simplest looks involve the most effort; something that is certainly the case with these new core qualities. Mills experiment with perfected blends in order to create the ultimate vintage aspect while also harnessing technology with sustainable benefits. Atlantic blends Refibra with recycled cotton, whereas Bossa use Lyocell. Tejidos Royo pairs organic and recycled cotton. Prosperity and Advance tap hemp’s characteristic benefits and blend in cotton to balance it all out.

Atlan t i c - D i m i t r y ( 3 8 % C O , 3 1 % Recycled CO, 3 1 % R e f i b r a )

Fear of God

Prosperity A4070B (85% CO, 15% Hemp)

Advance QA496Y12-31 (81% CO, 19% Hemp)

Kilim D6189_Noga_RC (90% CO, 10% RPET)

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Bossa - O r g a n i c T o r m u n d S a v e f e r a -2 (40% Recyc l e d C O , 4 2 % L y o c e l l , 1 7 % O r ganic CO, 1 % E A )

Tejidos Royo Aizome Indigo (74% Organic CO, 24% Recycled CO, 2% EA)

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There are an array of indigos in the market, but discerning customers are choosing options based on sustainable benefits over a quest for the perfect blue. Many mills explore ‘dry’ indigo applications, as opposed to traditional dye baths. Royo have spent ten years researching DryIndigo tech (foam dye application which uses 0% water in dying amongst many other benefits); AGI Denim have implemented a zero waste water dying system; Blue Diamond introduced their ‘Wizard’ fabrics that replace the traditional petroleum-based process with an electrochemical technique. Naveena introduces ‘Nick Indigo’ which uses less than 1% indigo, but produces 3-4% looking shades.

Calik - 7 2 9 4 6 D

Wrangler Indigood

Blue Diamond WZ-01 (Smart Indigo)

Naveena NDL-4927-A-62 (Nick Indigo)

AGI Denim- 17053/ AS-84 (Natural Indigo)

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Atlan t i c - O k a m o t o - n ( Q u i c k B l e a ch Outs)

Tejidos Royo Willow (Dye Dry Indigo)

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Authentic black fades that tap new technology, sustainable benefits or fibre solutions combine added value with authenticity. Artistic Milliners’ cotton-free black has all the character and handfeel of 100% cotton. Prosperity’s ‘Revelation Black’ achieves an old school look using low-impact dyes with a quick release and white core. Building on their dry indigo range, Tejidos Royo extend the dye process to include black, controlling the intensity and fixation of the colour. Vicunha are known for incorporating recycled cotton into almost all their products and their Zat Black-Black combines all the markings of a great, ‘80s look with recycled fibres.

Artis t i c M i l l i n e r s - A M X - 5 1 0 7 6 - A (60% Tence l , 3 9 % P o l y , 1 % E a )

Tokonikomu

Blue Diamond RY-36 (57% CO, 20% Recycled CO, 22% Tencel, 1% Spandex)

Tejidos Royo Aizome Black (74% Organic CO, 24% Recycled CO, 2% EA)

Prosperity A3372K-1 (99% CO, 1% LYCRA)

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Vicun h a - Z a t B l a c k ( 1 0 0 % C O )

DNM - Caledon Black OD (79% CO, 3% EA, 9% CYL, 9% EME)

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Deep, dark and saturated tones combine with premium vintage character and strong high-low fade capabilities to tap the core mens market. The difference with many of these new fabrics is their hidden comfort. Artistic Milliners’ Greko contains 1% Roica stretch; and Neela Blue offers a 2% LYCRA, laundered to perfection by Nishat. Atlantic Mills, known for their premium menswear weaves, offers a 100% cotton selvedge; whereas Hantex combined 20% post consumer waste with an open weave and drape to add comfortability. Prosperity chose linen for similar results.

Nisha t - 6 9 2 0 0 7 0 1 0 5 U s i n g f a b r i c from Neela B l u e

Heddels Fades

Artistic Milliners - Greko

Atlan t i c - I T S U

Prosperity A4272A-3

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Hantex - HTX-26963-EC

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Season-on-season, mills achieve more sophisticated, vintage aspects combined with increased sustainable and tech-driven performance benefits. Our selections below explore recycled cottons and polyesters from Kilim or (as explored on page seven), the balanced combination of hemp and Tencel to achieve character and handfeel in one. More sustainable dye processes from Blue Diamond and Bossa help to further cement the sustainability aspect of these tech-driven fabrics.

AGI D e n i m - 1 7 0 1 0 / A S - 5 0 9 - B 2 ( 8 8 % Cotton, 5% PC W , 5 % T - 4 0 0 , 2 % E l a s t a n e )

Closed

Advance - Panarea (98% CO, 2% Spandex)

Kilim - Morris Middark (68.6% Organic CO, 14.9% RPET, 9.4% CO, 5.5% PCI)

Bossa - SK0455 (90% CO, 8% Poly, 2% EA)

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DNM - L u a n R e f l e x b l u e ( 8 8 % C O , 1 0% Hemp, 2% EA )

Blue Diamond PS-146 (58% CO, 21% Rayon, 19% Copper, 2% Spandex)

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Denim knits are nothing new, but innovation drives the newest qualities into our second year of lock-down. Leading Indian mill, Arvind launched their knit program - INFIKNITY - in 2019 and explores engineered knit indigos, dobbies and knit-look wovens. New technologies include applying water- and chemical-reduction processes, and to eliminate the use of PP spray in laundry. ISKOtaps re-used cotton and recycled polyester, ensuring that these 360 stretch qualities consider the environment too.

Oblekt Japan

Arvind - HELIOS/57730

ISKOISKO22VOL1_30A_D

Arvind SKMCTTEA0256

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Lightweight weaves and cellulose blends are another way to embrace comfort for SS22. Whilst Tencel features heavily to create drape, the traditional, glossy and feminine properties have been tempered in favour of more characterful and matte looks. Nishat’s design team sourced a 52% Tencel, washed using their Core water saving system to emulate the ‘80s open-end appearance of 100% cotton, with an open, fluid weave. Hantex blend Modal, Viscose and Polyester to create a similar structure, whereas Beximco taps linen for its more characterful slubs.

Soort y - N - D S - 1 7 9 4 A A - M R ( 3 0 % C O , 30% Tence l , 3 0 % E C O V E R O , 1 0 % L i n e n )

Northface Purple Label

Hantex - HTX-25805-ECF (Modal, Viscose, Poly)

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Nisha t - 2 0 9 0 8 - 4 0 9 ( 5 2 % T e n c e l , 48% CO)

Beximco - BDL-2132B (60% Tencel, 40% Linen)

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Blending themes of comfort and fluidity with the ‘80s-centric aspects currently trending in the market, this collection of tough-looking twills offer surprising comfort, considering their rigid appearances. Mock knits, dobbies and open and supple constructions offer the ultimate in WFH-wear whilst maintaining denim attitude.

American Vintage

Collect - COD71LKW

Beximco BDL-8115MBR

Arvind BECKHAM SUMO/ CKT175

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DNM - A k i v a M o s s y

Artistic Milliners - Nemo

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After the runway-driven ‘80s explosion a few years back, this vintage trend has entered the fabric market, seeing mills recreate classic characteristics with contemporary execution. Open-end looks and defined twill-lines combine with sophisticated and sustainable technology. Bossa’s comfort stretch contains 22% lyocell and 22% ‘Frescura’ silver embedded inside polyester for freshness. Naveena taps a cotton / hemp / linen blend to achieve that classic salt ’n pepper aspect.

AJO STUDIO

Blue Diamond LZ-25 Dark indigo

Cone- S784P Rosebowl

Kurabo OGKD10086

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Navee n a - N D L - 5 6 0 0 - A 0 1

Bossa - Darrly Deep SN0528

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The high-stretch jeans of the ‘80s were heavy-weight, stiff and saggy - but damn, did they look cool! Mills apply all their stretch expertise to reinventing the classic looks without all the failings of the past. Advance uses 12% T400 and 4% LYCRA, so expect a far more sophisticated stretch that an original ‘80s jean! Panther’s ‘Marbelous’ stretch contains Tencel for a soft hand and sustainable blend; Tejidos Royo and Hantex both blend 20% recycled yarns into their retro looks.

Hantex - HTX-26954-ECF (74. 5 % C O , 2 0 % PCW CO, 4% Poly, 1.5% EA)

Tejid o s R o y o - W i l l o w ( 7 5 % C O , 2 0% Recyc l e d J e a n s C O , 3 % O F , 2 % E A )

Panther - 200373 (63% CO, 3 6 % T e n c e l , 1 % LYCRA)

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Advan c e - Q A 0 1 8 V 3 - 1 ( 8 4 % C O , 1 2 % T-400, 4% LY C R A )

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The holy grain of the archives, this unique vintage character is a distinctive look that has got mills working hard over the last few seasons to perfect. Engineering modern tech into this charming, inconsistent surface texture adds extra value for the brand. Bossa blended recycled yarns and Tencel with cotton and added its ‘thermoblue’ technology. Kings of vintage, Cone Denim, perfected this O.E. look in their Enola quality, and Neela Blue even perfected it in 100% Tencel.

Bossa - N u t t a n u n T h e r m o b l u e S N 0 5 31

Tired Laundry

Cone - 8333J Enola

Soort y - 5 0 0 3 4 A - R F - E C O

Neela Blue NB-01863-FW

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Blue Diamond - RY-35 Dark Indigo

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Summer-weights and shirtings explore the key fibre and character trends that we have outlined on the previous page, only lighter! Linen and hemp mixes, recycled blends, softened and comfortable hand-feels all show up in 10oz weights and 2x1 constructions. Arvind, ISKO and Candiani play with hemp textures, Bossa blends hemp with lyocell. Orta releases a stunning textured organic cotton chambray with unique floating stitch slub.

Orta - 9 0 9 5 A - 2 8 ( 1 0 0 % O r g a n i c C o tton)

Eye C Magazine

Arvind - GAGE/ 57587 (CO, Hemp)

ISKO ISKO22VOL1_37A_D

Bossa - RN0509 (60% CO, 30% CLY, 10% Hemp)

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Candi a n i - S L 11 7 2 ( 1 0 0 % C o t t o n )

Artistic Milliners - Agger (70% CO, 20% PCW CO, 10% Recycled Poly)

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As contemporary brands adopt traditional workwear weaves and interpret through a fresh lens, age-old aspects come to the fore. Herringbone weaves are a creative ground for experimentation and Crescent Bahuman’s herringbone stripe adds a playful modernity. Maruwa Kobishi combines blue and black in a lightweight wool and Stella Blu go bright and bold. Paul Vogel, the UK-based textile designer has multiple variegated herringbone stripes in his archives to inspire.

Maruwa Kobishi - MSN76160

Block & Last

Crescent Bahuman - XM-3046-H

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A perennial, classic look, indigo plaids are updated with tactile and artisanal surfaces. Textile designer Paul Vogel plays with hand-loom, premium combinations and has an archive of plaid designs. 496 Fabric Lab from Taiwan turn their jacquard skills to create multi-textured layers, whilst Denim De L’ile laser onto a classic herringbone.

Denim D e L ’ i l e - H a r r y P I 2 2 P l a i d

Paul Vogel

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Maruw a K o b i s h i - M S C 7 5 7 7 7

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The denim stripe comes in many forms this season but the most striking are the raised, tactile jacquard weaves at Crescent Bahuman and 496 Fabric Lab.The latter plays with racked diagonal twills and contrast yarns to elevate their denims to designer status. Paul Vogel has a never-ending library of variegated stripes at his fingertips to inspire.

Re-done

Crescent Bahuman - XA-3183-J

Nishat 6921020158

Paul Vogel - I39

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496 F a b r i c L a b - D J 6 0 1 1

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S U L P H U R C E N T R I C Blue D i a m o n d - R Y - 1 6 I n d i g o G r a y

Deep, blackened indigos are updated using innovative dyes or contemporary compositions. AGI Denim use a wood-waste black pigment sourced from sustainable FSC certified forests, made in a closed loop with no C02 or greenhouse emissions, it creates a beautiful, graphic aspect on the face and a great washdown effect. Blue Diamond’s Indigo Grey quality uses an interesting composition of cotton, copper, rayon and spandex. Vicunha combines a recycled cotton and lyocell with this intense double dyed sulphur-y blue.

Tonello

Panther Denim 200373

AGI Denim - 15330/ ZF-267

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Vicun h a - T a i g a

Cone Denim 8333J Enola

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S Vintage tints pair with archival weaves to create the ultimate modern vintage replica. Leading machinery experts, Tonello have launched ‘Eco Dirty’ technology that creates vintage tints without the use of chemicals. Desert Studio create impeccable vintage finishes from their water-less eco- xxx in Dubai. Meanwhile, the perfectly characterful qualities from Atlantic and Bossa are set off with a vintage tint.

Deser t S t u d i o - R R - 7 2 7 6 _ J L C _ P R E _ SHRUNK

MAitllla nNtaimce - H a r d w e l l - R C

Fear of God

Bossa - Darrly Deep SN0528

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Tonel l o - T 2 0 T O 0 0 1 3 - D 1 7

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ect with nature, how we connect with the brands and companies we buy from and how we connect with ourselves. This year has universally deepened that connection.

Re-evolution

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Sometimes we have to look back in order to move forward and RE-EVOLUTION, our most sustainablyfocused story, explores that concept. We have ‘invented’ ourselves a world that has pulled us further away from nature and by reverting back and re-aligning ourselves once again, we can make more holistic progress and minimize our human impact.

RE-EVOLUTION fuses technology and nature to solve many of the problems we created for ourselves.

It’s a long but purpose-driven journey.

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The Oris Present

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Using nature as inspiration, RE-EVOLUTION celebrates the visual beauty of sustainable fabrics, rather than trying to engineer it away. Slubs and imperfections, recycled neps and hand-spun attitude is what its all about!

Taking cues from slow craft and time-worn techniques, fabric interest comes from rustic dobbies with tactile appeal whilst composition, plant-based benefits and biodegradable capabilities are paramount.

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@designcampinmybasement

Ha n t e x / B ex i m c o / A t l a n t i c / Calik

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Ten years ago, recycled denim was an unsophisticated novelty: something to be interested in but very hard to market to a consumer. Fibre lengths were short, strength was a problem, aspect was a strange grey-blue. Things are different in 2022; not only have fabrics become smarter and more usable, but the idea and therefore the look of recycled denim is more widely palatable. Nike’s launch of the ‘Space Hippie sneaker last year set the stage for imperfect, up-cycled texture and colour to be embraced. And the post-COVID consumer is going to very familiar with grey marl ;-)

Calik - 7 2 9 3 3 D ( 7 2 % C O , 2 0 % Recyc l e d C O , 5 . 5 % T - 4 0 0 , 2 . 5 % LYCRA )

Nike Space Hippie

Artistic Milliners - Chervil (80% Industrial Waste CO, 20% PCW CO)

Naked and Famous

Neela Blue NB-01818-FH (55.5% CO, 21% Refibra. 21% PCW CO, 2.5% LYCRA)

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The N e w D e n i m P r o j e c t - L - 1 9 ( 1 0 0% Denim , C o t t o n T e x t i l e W a s t e )

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P O S T C O T T O N Kurab o DLP10 4 9 3 ( 9 8 % Recyc l e d C O , 2 % PU)

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Will we live in a post-cotton world? Or even a post-raw-material world, where all our apparel resources are taken from garments once-destined for landfill? If the innovations emerging in the fibre world are to believed, then we have a chance. For a start, most mills are experimenting with blends that eradicate virgin cotton completely; Artistic Milliners have a 60% Tencel and 39% Polyester blend; Soorty offers a 50% Tencel / 50% Ecovero alternative; and Neela Blue have gone for 100% Tencel. AGI Denim has created a 70% ‘not from virgin’ denim, and Bossa blends recycled cotton with lyocell and just 7% of organic virgin cotton. Kilim launched recycled cotton and recycled polyester, no virgin resources.

N e e l a B l ue N B - 0 1 8 6 3 -FW ( 1 0 0 % T e ncel)

Kilim D 6 1 8 9 _ N O G A_RC ( 9 0 % R e c y cled CO, 10% RPET)

AGI Denim - 17500/AS-509-B 2 ( 3 1 % O r g a n i c CO, 30% Recycled CO, 38% R e c y c l e d P o l y , 1% Roica)

Weekday

Bossa - Organic Tormund Sa v e f e r a - 2 ( 4 0 % Recycled CO, 42% Lyocell, 1 7 % O r g a n i c CO, 1% EA)

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Artis t i c M i l l i n e r s - AMX - 5 1 0 7 6 - A ( 6 0 % Tence l , 3 9 % P o l y , 6% EA )

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As we attempt to move towards a more circular industry, waste and recycling is becoming a key focus across the denim world. Blending recycled yarns with either new cellulosic fibres, recycled polyesters or virgin cotton means mills are able to create beautiful, authentic denims that go some way to solving our waste issue. Recycled cotton makes up anything from 7% to 31% of these new qualities, with polyester and Refibra providing added strength. Calik’s E-Denim range was developed with circular design in mind. We all know that recycled yarn is a lower strength and quality but Calik invented a yarn technology which makes possible to use significant amount of the recycled fibre within the core yarn, giving it an incomparable structure.

Kilim - D 5 7 1 6 ( 7 9 . 1 % C O , 1 3 . 9 % R PET, 7% Recyc l e d C O )

The New Denim Project

Tejidos Royo Shelby (69% CO, 29% Recycled CO, 2% EA)

Artistic Milliners - Agger (70% CO, 20% PCW CO, 10% Recycled Poly)

CNailsihka t- 7 2 8 9 0 D (54% CO, 30% Recycled CO, 12% Recycled PES, 4% LYCRA)

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Hante Mill x Nam e H T X - 2 6 9 5 3 - E C F ( 6 2 . 5 % C O , 20% PCW C O , 5 % P o l y , 3 % R e c y c l e d P o l y)

Atlantic - Dimitry ((38% CO, 31% Recycled CO, 31% Refibra)

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A playful, novelty riff off the recycling story; these colourful neppy surfaces create a visual note to inspire the consumer and nod to postconsumer waste. Neela Blue’s multi-coloured space-dye weft subtly shows through to the face of the fabric, whereas Atlantic’s neppy yarns come to the fore once abraded. Paul Vogel weaves with an ultra neppy space-dye yarn, combined with indigo to generate surface texture. Although these fabrics are not using up-cycled yarns, we see a visual story emerging in the future.

Atlantic - Recoil

Naked A n d F a m o u s

Paul Vogel

Sottes Official

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Neela B l u e - N B 0 1 0 3 7 F W

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Hemp has emerged as this season’s hero, due to its ability to sequester carbon, nourish our soil, its speedy growth rate, and its ability to get rid of unwanted pests without any pesticides. Almost every mill tapped hemp blends to get the right balance between an authentic look and a soft hand.

In smaller doses (see page 7) the effect is subtle but used in larger quantities the true properties are more apparent. AGI Denim blends with cotton, polyester and elastane, whilst Blue Diamond and Crescent Bahuman temper with Tencel. Calik’s new Blue-H line embraces hemp qualities in various different guises and blends.

Blue D i a m o n d - L Z - 2 5 D a r k i n d i g o (40% Hemp)

Levi’s hemp

Crescent Bahuman XA-3459-C (40% Hemp)

Calik - 72722D (31% Hemp)

Naveena - 5627A-01 (100% Hemp)

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Neela B l u e - N B - 0 1 8 6 6 - F W ( 5 0 % H e mp)

AGI Denim - 16853/ A3 (50% Hemp)

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S Much like hemp, linen is an extremely durable fibre with amazing naturally occurring benefits. Its breathability and absorbability make it ideal for the Spring/Summer season while adding a beautiful texture and slub to the fabric. Orta, Kilim and Stella Blu are amongst the few who have experimented with linen in blends, mostly with cotton to temper the crispy handfeel, much the same way as hemp.

Neela B l u e - N B - 0 1 6 7 1 - F H ( C O , L i nen, LYCRA , T - 4 0 0 )

Stella Blu

Beximco BDL-3169A (CO, Linen)

Atlantic Brecektt (CO, Linen)

Prosperity A4272A-3 (CO, Linen)

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Kilim - S D 1 0 0 8 M u r r a y ( O r g a n i c C O, Recyc l e d C O , L y o c e l l , L i n e n )

Orta - 50706A (CO, Linen)

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With the emphasis on alternative fibres this season, mills turn back to nature for its inherent benefits and visual appeal. Indian mill, Arvind uses Kapok, which grows in the wild, meaning there is no need for artificial watering or pesticides. Kapok replicates the feeling of silk as well as containing anti-bacterial qualities. Hantex have launched a jean with 22% corn fibre, which is more resilient than cotton and has high wickability.

Finally, Japanese mill Collect have taped both banana fibre and bamboo to create neppy, characterful textures.

Raleigh Denim: Banana Deni m f r o m C o l l e c t

Colle c t - T A K E 7 1 2 - S V ( 8 4 % C O , 1 6 % Bambo o )

Arvind - KIRO/57750 (Cott o n , K a p o k )

Levi’s

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Hante x - H T X - 2 8 3 9 5 - E C F ( 6 3 % C O , 22% Corn F i b r e , 1 7 % R a y o n , 1 % S p a n d e x)

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O R G A N I C

The arguments for and against organic cotton have been rolling back and forth for seasons, but the general consensus is that organic cotton, grown without synthetic additives or pesticides, can only be a good thing for soil fertility and biodiversity. Organic cotton farming is also less likely to contribute to global warming, acidification and eutrophication than conventional cotton farming. However, it does use more land, more water and more resources. Considering all the give and takes, mills are still seeing longterm benefits for consumers and leaning into the concept. Bossa, in particular, works with specific growers to ensure the authenticity of the yield. Organic invariably is used to compliment recycled yarns for the ultimate sustainable offering.

Kilim - D 6 4 3 8 ( 9 5 . 7 O r g a n i c C O , 3 PBT, 1 . 3 R e c y c l e d E A )

Mill Name

Royo - Aizome Indigo (74% Organic CO, 24% Recycled CO, 2% EA)

Atlantic - ITSU (100% Organic CO)

Bossa - Organic Gold Dustin Nat 006700 (95% Organic CO, 4% Hemp, 1% EA)

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Cone - J 5 9 9 9 3 ( 1 0 0 % O r g a n i c C O )

Prosperity A4566A (100% Organic CO)

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N A T U R A L

The ultimate statement in paired-back sustainability is unbleached, seeded ecru. Qualities are left bare to let the beauty and character of the yarn shine through - from neps and slubs, to open weaves to dry or tactile hands. Calik’s Blue H collection of hemps contains a beautiful cotton hemp mix, as does Crescent Bahuman. Whereas Orta blends its hemp with PCW for an added sustainable touch. Cone’s ‘Wholesome’ mixes unbleached cotton with modal and the open, lofty handfeel is perfection.

Calik - 3 0 4 1 9 G ( 6 9 % C O , 3 1 % Hemp)

Nanushka

Orta - 47008A (20% PCW)

Blue Diamond PD-36 (80 CO, 19% Recycled CO, 1% Spandex)

Bossa - Organic Gold Dustin Nat 006700 (95% Organic CO, 4% Hemp, 1% EA)

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Cresc e n t B a h u m a n - X A - 3 5 5 6 - A ( 7 3 % CO, 27% H e m p )

Cone - 7922J Wholesome (71% CO, 29% Modal)

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Traditional indigo crafts inspire a wealth of textured, raised stripes and hand-loomed looks. Crescent Bahuman play with giant slub effects, emulating the slow-made process of hand loom textiles. Japanese masters, Kurabu experiment with sankuzushi matt weaves for a purist indigo look at premium designer level. Paul Vogel comes into his own with his array of hand-loomed swatches created in his UK-based studio. Vertical slubs and stripes create tactile character.

Crescent Bahuman - XAD-303 7 - I

Kurab o - K D A 1 0 2 5 8 2

Tonello - T18TO001-61

FDMTL

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Paul V o g e l

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C H A R A C T E R F U L D O B B Y Kurab o - K D A 1 0 2 5 9 2

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Intricate honeycomb weaves and waffles may be a niche look, but since the global pandemic, consumers are looking for soft textures and knits that provide more interest and tactility than the usual sweatpants. Complex dobbies and jacquards use heavy but open yarns to create the ultimate comfort and even knitted techniques take on textured character. Calik adds lyocell to their cotton blended dobby for increased fluidity.

18 East

496 Fabric Lab DLE042

Arvind - AVENIR/ 57647

Calik 72882D

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Paul V o g e l - I 5 4

Beximco BDL-3158B

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S U M M E R S T R U C T U R E S Colle c t - Y M 0 3 6 - 3 I D - 1 C - 1

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Ease, drape, comfort and breezy, lightweight structures create perfect fabrics for summer tactility. These complex weaves use three dimensional surfaces such as waffle of seersucker to create barely-there comfort. Perfect high-summer shirting weights in 5-8ozs work well in dresses, blouses or even as a statement jean.

Ovie Studio

Maruwa_Kobishi Gingham Bill

Beximco - S09128

Eighteen East

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Bexim c o - 6 9 9 4 6 3

The New Denim Project - Birdseye Selvedge

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As the workwear trend continues, sun-faded ecrus and tans emerge as a perfect SS update to the stronger mustard carhartt shades of FW.Rigid qualities and duck canvasses are lighter weight and open, twill lines are defined and wear and tear adds character and attitude. We love Denim De L’ile’s ‘Tennessee’ indigo with the true denim shade peeping through.

Vicunha - Renzo

Tired Laundry

Tonel l o - T 1 8 T O 0 0 1 - 0 4

Denim De L’ile - Tennessee P I 2 2

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Bexim c o - 6 0 0 4 4 9

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Ton e l l o - T 2 0T O 0 0 1 3 - D 2 0

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Dye processes damage the environment and excessively deplete / contaminate our precious water supply. Mills are reacting by adopting natural, less harmful alternatives. Archroma’s EARTH COLOURS range has been tapped by mills and brands alike, whilst Tonello’s WAKE technology works in unison with their existing machinery, meaning natural overdyes can be adopted at the garment stage. Officina 39 launches RECYCROM which turns textile scraps into dye-stuffs.

Sabrina Olivera- Soldadera s

Officina+39 200205

Nishat 6921030320

Orta - 1760A-4

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Archr o m a

Kurabo - M1109

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ect with nature, how we connect with the brands and companies we buy from and how we connect with ourselves. This year has universally deepened that connection.

Luxury, Redefined

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Contemporary design

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Tech-driven solutions

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Invisible value

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Future-focussed jeanswear

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d enimdudes.co

What we value is changing dramatically: luxury used to indicate status in a more immediate, overt and superficial manner. But now consumers value knowledge, traceability, individualism and ethics over shallow, spontaneous purchases. Intention becomes key and in this story, technology, sustainability and individuality combine to create a new lens through which to view product.

A

L U X U R Y ,

R E - D E F I N E D

Ksenia Schnaider

MF Pen

The future of designer denim revolves around themes of technology and sustainability. The value of a garment and its usability, versatility and longevity must be considered when making fabric choices. How the fabric was made is paramount -from yarn to dyestuff. But what happens to the fabric in the manufacturing process and at the end consumer level must also be considered. Inventive design drives striking new fabric aspects, but qualities and benefits that are invisible to the naked eye are also paramount to REDEFINE LUXURY

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Simply Suzette

Co n e / B e x im c o / 4 9 6 F a b r i c L ab / Blue Diamond

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The newest innovations in stretch focus on versatility and added value; ensuring that the perfect skinny jean is a true investment piece rather than a throwaway item. DNM launch ‘Shape N Relax’, a yarn treatment that lends itself to contouring, whilst Reflexblue tech provides softness. Naveena’s ‘Soft Stretch’ focusses on second-skin feeling with single-digit shrinkage. Calik continue their innovative ‘Selfsized’ range, aimed to adapt across size sets. Panther Denim’s Everybody Stretch product covers all gender, ages and countours with a great equity and ultra high elasticity.

DNM - W e r r a R e f l e x b l u e ( 8 1 % C O , 12% Lyoce l l , 5 % E M E , 2 % E l a s t a n e )

Frame Denim

Kilim - D6438 (95.7 organic cotton / 3 pbt / 1.3 recycled ea

Calik - 72834D (92.5% CO, 4% PES, 3.5% LYCRA)

Naveena NDL-5610-A-63 (89% CO, 10% Poly, 1% LYCRA)

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Advan Mill c Ne ame Q A 0 1 8 V 3 - 1 ( 8 4 % C O , 1 2 % T-400, 4% LY C R A )

Panther Denim 200280 (90 CO, 6% Elastrell-P, 4% Spandex)

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A N T I M I C R O B I A L

Throughout recent years, anti-microbial properties have been implemented to cut down on home laundries and to help denim purists achieve their fades. But 2020 changed the need behind the tech. Calik offers an antimicrobial feature for the products with ViralOff® technology under its FUNCTIONAGE concept. and Advance’s Kyorene Acts like a bacteria fighter, isolating allergens. Panther’s antibacterial finish combines with an aniline-free indigo (see page 8). Cone, Arvind and Bossa’s use of Ionic, Kapok or Frescura fibres embeds natural anti-bacterial properties into the fabric.

Cone - H a v e n ( I o n i c F i b r e )

Diesel Upfreshing Collecti o n

Panther - 200436 (Anti-Viral Finish)

Calik 72733D (ViralOff®)

Bossa - Darrly Deep SN0528 (Frescura)

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Advan Mill c Ne ame K y o r e n e - Q A 2 5 0 V 8 - 3 8 ( G r aphene Polya m i d e )

Arvind - KIRO/ 57750 (Kapok)

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As consumers search for added value in their purchases, denim mills explore future tech solutions that take this classic fabric into new territories. Naveena and Kipas have explored the sustainable benefits of creating a jean that lasts longer and is a better investment; Naveena uses Coolmax for temperature control and Dyneema for strength; and Kipas teams up with Cordura for strength and durability. Panther Denim have embraced the summer season with their DRYARN tech: highly breathable and lightweight drape. Advance taps natural nano jade powder for its moisture transformation and temperature control. Stella Blu always inspires with their 38% nylon chambray that lends itself well to indigo outerwear pieces.

Panth e r D e n i m - D R R 5 7 0 0 2 2 B 1 ( D r y Yarn)

Levi’s x White Mountaineer i n g

Kipas / Cordura 25763_Delaware_DB_ STR_FIX

Advance - Blue Ice- QA118A3-45

Stella Blu 5S321

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Stell a B l u - 5 S - 4 8 3

Naveena NDL-5307-E-MW

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Strong or stay-black shades create a smarter attitude whilst tapping new technology to entice the consumer. Panther’s stretch denim contains 15% Modal Black to add softness and colour-fastness to their shade. Soorty blend black modal with black ecovero, which are both compostable and renewable fibres and the quality is stay-black due to fibre dying; a win-win combination. Vicunha, as with all their fabrics, tap recycled fibres in the ‘Eco Forest’ range. Royo are making big waves with their Dry Black range, where they have managed to use 99% less water, 52% less chemicals and 72% less energy.

Panther - 200691

Soort y - N - H W H - 3 0 0 8 A - B V

Vicunha - Eco Forest

Cand i a n i JK-1 3 7 4 - K N - D R O N E

Acne Studios

Adv a n c e QA0 0 2 D 9 - 4 7 T

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Royo D r y B l a c k P r o c e s s

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Bexim c o - 6 0 1 33 3

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S Truly embracing the SS season, we adore the barely-there blues presented at Beximco, Arvind and Collect. Indigo dyed open weaves and mesh fabrics create directional texture for fashion-forward appeal. Beximco’s rustic plain weave in cotton / linen creates a tactile, casual attitude, whilst Collect and Arvind opt for a more technical feel. Arvind’s ‘Infiknity’ range is smooth and slick, offering designers a premium shirting alternative.

Collect - KRM1560ID

Our Legacy

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Arvind - MARADONA/WKT1093

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L U X E J A C Q U A R D 496 F a b r i c L a b - L O G O 6 0 0 7

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Jacquard is often associated with floral upholstery textiles, but more recently the techniques has been tapped by design houses and brands as in innovative way to reinvent branding. The Luxury sector is well known for using monogramed Jacquard for handbags and accessories, and designers like Virgil Abloh are taking it a step further by breaking from traditional monogramed textiles to more playful design and logo placement. 496 Fabric Lab is pushing innovation forward with a wide range of customizable fabrications that are taking the designer denim world by storm.

Vandy The Pink

Collect

Louis Colle c V tuitton

Balenciaga

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Advance Denim

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P R E M I U M P A T C H W O R K Nisha t - R e c y c l e d J o g

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Patchwork has many guises in the denim world, from authentic patch-and-repair to DIY projects and beyond. This season, patchwork finds itself at the intersection of premium design and sustainable practice. Designer Ksenia Schnaider, along with other brands like Re-Done, has been modernizing the look since the denim brands inception in 2011 combining reworked, recycled materials with creative fits and designs. Nishat used their own up cycled materials to created a new fabric which they transformed into a pair of joggers. Desert Studio embodied a rustic, vintage look mixing indigo and nature shades. Orta created a crisp workwear look with high contrast indigo colors.

DRees/eDrotn e Studio

Ksenia Schnaider

Desert Studio, Dubai - MINHORA

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Orta - P C - 0 0 3 4 5

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Fray detailing has escalated from traditional workwear tear and breakage patterns into everything from intricately designed jacquards with floating threads, to soft and fluffy distressing reminiscent of faux fur or high-pile weaves. Young DIY designers like Jaffa Saba have elevated DIY denim surfaces beyond craft, combining heavy, yet mindful fraying with artfully patched repairs. 496 Fabric Lab have mastered the the art of Jacquard denim, bringing frayed surfaces to an elevated market. Officina+39 gives us a close look at one of the most beautiful parts of fray, the indigo faded warp yarns with exposed white cores.

Officina+39 - 200187

496 Fabric Lab - DJPN392

496 Fabric Lab - DJ6012

Nihinmenpu

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Jaff a S a b a

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From whiskers to honeycombs, lasers are often used to produce natural wear patterns. But crafty designers such as Marine-Serre have recently taken laser design to the next level. Mirroring current, art-focused fashion trends, lasers are used to create precise graphics and artwork to include everything from brand logos to photo-real portraits. Beximco and DDI exemplify the strength of creative branding and logo design through laser application. While “it” brand of the moment, Ganni display the lasers ability to product complex and intricate artwork.

Denim De L’ile - Arkansas P 1 2 2 - G R S

Ganni

Tonello

Marine-Serre

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Bexim c o B D L - 3 1 2 5 - B C N - 1 8 7 8

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Bleach-outs have been a staple finish in the industry since the days of the ‘70s punk era. Today’s tech provides the ability to create a rage of effects with bleach-free finishing processes. Desert Studio uses sustainable finishing processes to create an organically shaped, multi-shaded bleach out finish. Beximco created a bleach out reminiscent of horizontal tie dye patterns, while Officina+39, Orta and DDI opted for cracked, high contrast looks.

Deser t S t u d i o , D u b a i - H T X - 1 0 0 - O D

Orta - 1805A-30

Closed SS21

Beximco BDL-3151C-BCN-867

Denim De L’ile Tennessee PI22

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Offic i n a + 3 9 - 2 0 0 1 8 7

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L A S E R E D L A U N D R Y Offic i n a + 3 9 - 2 0 0 0 4 4

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Laser technology has come a long way since it emerged in the late ‘90s and and has become an art form of its own. Drawing from faded painterly looks and embracing imperfection, this season laser is used to create fresh, multidimensional surfaces. Tonello mixes engineered patterns and authentic fades for an elevated yet worn look. Desert Studio, uses laser to create a soft, hand-sponged wash, while Officina+39 mixes layered indigo with monochromatic base for a modern take on patchwork.

I and Me

Orta - 9089A-40

Denim De L’ile Carmen PI35X LG

Desert Studio, Dubai - HTX-4731F

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Tonel l o - T 2 0 T O 0 0 1 3 - D 1 8

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Acid wash has traditionally been a taboo statement surface for its overt use of bleach. But now, sustainable technology has caught up and brought this wash into the 21! century. Tonello have changed the acid game with bleach-free, O-zone-based treatments bringing back a guilt-free version of the iconic denim wash. This season Blue Diamond tapped Tonello Smart Indigo, NO STONE, O-Bleach and laser technology to compliment their new fibre blends and create a greener version of the look. Nishat and Beximco choose their strong ‘80s twills to accentuate the eco acid washes to perfection.

Nishat - NA1674

Blue D i a m o n d - W Z - 0 2 S m a r t I n d i g o

Tonello

AJO Studio

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Bexim c o - B D L - 8 1 0 3 - B C N - 8 8 2

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Offic i n a + 3 9 - 2 0 0 5 4 3

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Vibrant washes have been a coveted finishing technique since their rise to popularity in the ’80s. Since then, vast improvements have been made that enable us to obtain these looks without the harmful environmental impacts. Technology such as Recycrom, a revolutionary sustainable dyestuffs range

by Officina+39 which turns recycled clothing, fibres and textile scraps into colored powder; or Tonello machinery and sustainable laundries such as Wake, and others listed in ‘Indigo Acid’; and Desert Studio from Dubai were able to bring back the best of ‘80s color washes, without any harmful byproducts.

Etoile Isabel Marant

Tonello WAKE

Desert Studio, Dubai RR-7556_Yellow

Officina 39 NA1674

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Nisha t - N A 1 6 7 4

Beximco 8172DFCT

DENIM

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ect with nature, how we connect with the brands and companies we buy from and how we connect with ourselves. This year has universally deepened that connection.

DENIM DIRECTORY

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Cone Denim_______ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 6 8

Officina +39____________80

A d v a n c e D e n i m L td_______57

Crescent Bahuman L t d _ _ _ _ 6 9

Orta Anadolu____________81

A G I D e n i m _ _ _ _ _ _ _________58

Denim De L’ile___ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 7 0

Panther Denim___________82

A r t i s t i c M i l l i n ers______59

Desert Studio, Du b a i _ _ _ _ 7 1

Paul Vogel Design_______83

A r v i n d _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _________60

DNM Denim________ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 7 2

Prosperity Textile______84

A t l a n t i c M i l l s _ _________61

Hantex Textile Mi l l _ _ _ _ _ 7 3

Soorty__________________85

B e x i m c o _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _________62

ISKO_____________ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 7 4

Stella Blu______________86

B l u e D i a m o n d _ _ _ _________63

Kilim Denim______ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 7 5

Tejidos Royo____________87

B o s s a _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _________64

Kurabo___________ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 7 6

Tonello_________________88

C a l i k D e n i m _ _ _ _ _________65

Maruwa / Ueyama G r o u p _ _ _ 7 7

Vicunha_________________89

C a n d i a n i D e n i m _ _________66

Naveena Denim NDL _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 7 8

C o l l e c t / J a p a n Blue_____67

Neela By Saphire F i b r e s _ 7 9

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d enimdudes.co

SS2022

Supply Chain Profiles:

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for the Denim industry with years of experienced Jacquard weaving in their 496 Fabric Lab design. Using their strength and expertise in Jacquard creates an elevated space for denim textiles and product categories, as textiles for some of the denim and luxury industries biggest players.

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Founded in 2012, 496 Fabric Lab aims to create new inspirational textiles b a c k g r o u n d . O r i g i n a l i t y, i n n o v a t i o n a n d c r e a t i v i t y a r e a t t h e c o r e o f e v e r y weaving combined with indigo and denim textile concepts, 496 Fabric Lab well as maintaining the ability to create specialised, branded and original

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QA320D9-9KT

S ales C o n t a c t : M i c h a e l L a m / K a t h y Wong E mail: m i c h a e l la m @ a d v a n c e d e n i m . c o m kathyw o n g @ a d v a n c e d e n i m . c o m P hone: + 8 5 2 9 4 0 9 2 3 3 5

Advance Denim, the oldest denim mill in China, sits at the intersection of innovation, quality, people and environmental protection, creating over 500 new developments per year with innovative partners including Archroma, Jeanologia, Lenzing, Cordura, Cotton USA and more. This seasons fabrications include Bigbox dyeing, a sustainable dyeing method that reduces the 8-13 dye baths in traditional dyeing to just ONE Bigbox, reducing water waste, chemical consumption, electricity and gas emissions. Another sustainable implementation this season is BioBlue.

BioBlue denim uses a new eco reducing agent as a substitute for sodium hydrosulfite during indigo dyeing process. It has low impact to the environment with less pollutant discharge while maintaining high quality dyeing standards.

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I G Han d l e : @ a d v a n c e _ d e n i m

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Established in 1949 in Karachi, AGI Denim is one of Pakistan’s leading vertically integrated premium denim manufacturers striving to deliver premium products in the most ethical way possible, by maintaining high standards of innovation, quality and transparency. This season features various stretch categories including a quality with 100% stretch capabilities designed to act like a second skin while maintaining authentic surface aesthetics. They have developed special yarn construction technology to emulate the coveted perfect vintage, 3D marble or orange peel effect and WFH fabrications designed to feel like you never took your pajamas off, and look ready for the office.

Using Double Zero technology to reduce water waste and over 70% non-virgin cellulose or cotton content, AGI Denim has raised the bar in sustainable textile production.

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I G Han d l e : @ d e ni m c u l t u r e

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M i l l i n e r s

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CHERVIL

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Artistic Milliners, est. 1949 in Pakistan, has grown from a small retail store to one of the top manufacturers of denim in the world. Since the beginning, Artistic Milliners has been at the forefront of the global textile industry, and with their Denim Research & Innovation Center in Dubai, the company continues to drive innovation and sustainability in the denim industry. They create fabrics designed to mix fashion and style with advanced technological innovation to serve both the aesthetic and functional needs of a product. This season featured fabrics from the REBORN collections, composed of cotton alternative fibres such as Tencel. The BIO-VISION line, used high amounts recycled and PCW fibres and Cradle to Cradle Gold certification guidelines to enhance biodegradability at the end of a garments life. We also loved the CLOUD 9 collection, a line of cozy, luxe fabrics taking the comfort aspects of loungewear whilst maintaining the original rugged and rustic look of denim.

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IG Han d l e : @ a r t i s t i c m i l l i n e r s

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BECKHAM SUMO/CKT175

AVENIR/ 57647

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S ales C o n t a c t : V i r e s h V erma E mail: v i r e s h @ ar v i n d d e n i m l a b . c o m P hone: 7 2 7 - 7 6 3 -8 1 7 9 I G Han d l e : @ a r vi n d d e n i m l a b _ a m d

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Arvind, a vertically integrated mill and manufacturer holding 22 global patents for environmental solutions, driven by advanced textile solutions and social responsibility has been pioneering solutions and innovation since 1931. This season Arvind introduced the Kapok fibre, better known as ‘silk cotton,’ to the denim textile, as well as visual and texturized chunky twills and ultra lightweights. The company also introduced the Infiknity collection, a knit line with qualities ranging from bold twill like structures to delicate striped shirting weights of ultra soft indigo knits.

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Brece k t t

A t l a n t i c M i l l s C o . , L T D

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( T h a i l a n d )

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Okamoto

Jargon

Recoil

Elazar

S ales C o n t a c t : A m r i n S a c h a t h e p E mail: a m r i n @ a tl a n t i c m i l l s . c o . t h P hone: + 6 6 2 - 6 6 1- 8 6 8 7 t o 9 2 I G Han d l e : @ a t la n t i c m i l l s

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Atlantic Mills from Thailand is committed to building a greener denim industry starting at the source. All Atlantic fabrications are BCI certified, the company recycles 100% of its waste water and has a post-consumer denim recycling program. This season featured inventive linen, hemp, Refibra blends and rainbow core spun yarn technology, as well as new high content percentage recycled qualities, authentic heritage selvedges and kinder indigo dyeing, allowing for quicker bleach-outs and fades all while using a reduced amount of resources and producing less water and chemical waste.

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601333

BDL-8103-BCN-882

8172DFCT

BDL-8115MBR

Sales C o n t a c t : S y e d A d i l H a s a n Email: d e n i m @ b ex i m t e x . c o m Phone: + 0 9 6 0 9 6 55 5 5 5 - 5 1 7 1 5 IG Han d l e : @ b e xi m c o

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Beximco is one of South Asia’s largest vertically integrated textile and garment companies with in-house design capabilities based in Spain and Bangladesh. Beximco is very trend focused with an emphasis on aspirational surface finishings and elevated weave construction, while maintaining low Environmental Impact Measure (EMI) scores. They implemented inventive cotton, hemp, Tencel and Refibra blends this season.

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WZ-01

LZ-25

RY-17

RY-35

Sales C o n t a c t : V i n c e n z o M a r r o c c o Email: v i n c e n z o @ h o u s e o f g o l d . l a P hone: N / A I G Han d l e : @ h o us e o f g o l d . l a

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Blue Diamond’s mill has an expansive range of core, premium, blended and techn-driven denims. Committed to building a greener future, this season features ‘Diamond Blend’ a collection of cotton blends with sustainable fibres such as Modal, Tencel, Viscose and Refibra, integrating new technologies with authentic looks leading to an upscaled sophisticated denim with luxurious hand feel and excellent stretch and recovery. Collaborating with the “Godfather of Denim”, Adriano Goldschmied and Tonello to create an array of fabrications and wash recipes ranging from authentic heritage, to a 70’s cast, to 80’s acid.

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Orga n i c G o l d Du s t i n N a t 0 0 6 7 0 0

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Pinkerton Mesoblue SN0530

MX Kefren Thermoblue

SK0 4 5 5

Organic Tormund Savefera-26

S ales C o n t a c t : B o s s a S a l e s T e a m E mail: s a l e s @ b o s s a . c o m . t r P hone: + 9 0 2 1 2 4 3 7 8 4 0 6

Bossa, since 1951, has been actively involved in the protection and preservation of the environment, human health and social conditions. As a leader in sustainable denim development, the company has implemented a wide range of projects and initiatives to further push the denim industry into a cleaner space. Bossa is certified by Oeko-Tex 100, Global Organic Textiles Standard(GOTS), Organic Exchange 100 & Blended, Global Recycle Standard (GRS), ISO 14001 (Global Cert). This season, Bossa introduces 'Frescura’ an antimicrobial protection finish, hemp and lyocell blends giving an authentic vintage appearance with an incredibly soft handfeel. As well as raising the amount the recycled and organic cotton content throughout their offering.

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S ales C o n t a c t : M r . K u b i l a y h a n K a l ayci Email: k u b i l a y ha n . k a l a y c i @ c a l i k d e nim.com rabia. k a b a l @ c a l i k d e n i m . c o m P hone: + 9 0 2 1 2 4 59 2 6 2 6 I G Han d l e : @ c a li k d e n i m

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For Spring Summer 2022, Calik introduces Blue H: hemp based denim, D-Leisure: comfort focused Tencel blends, E-Denim: increased recycled content with new yarn technology, Dyepro Technology: eco-conscious dyeing techniques and ViralOff® technology under Functionage, an antimicrobial technology by Polygiene. While continuing to incorporate the company's prominent Washpro Technology: long lasting freshness, as well as Skinlithe: stretch and contouring, and Selfsized: one size fits most technology, which was recently used to create the ‘Always Fits’ jean by Good American.

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JL115

SK1307

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JK1374

S ales C o n t a c t : D a m i a n o D a l l ’ A n e s e E mail: d o m i a n o @c a n d i a n i d e n i m u s a . c om Phone: N / A IG Han d l e : @ c a n d i a n i d e n i m

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Candiani Denim, established 1938, is a family-run Italian denim mill that has grown to become known as the highest quality, most sustainable, and perhaps most well known mill in the world. This season included qualities from the companies raw look, workwear collection, featuring linen and hemp fibre blends, and Kitotex and V-Sizing, bio-based, biodegradable sizing agents. As well as rich and rustic gray, black and beige wefts.

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FT033 - 3 - K I I D

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S ales C o n t a c t : S e l v e d g e D e n i m Email: y a s u n o b u@ j a p a n b l u e . c o . j p P hone: + 8 1 8 6 4 7 34 7 6 0 I G Han d l e : @ f a br i c _ b y _ c o l l e c t

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Japan Blue Co., Ltd., A textile manufacturer located in Kojima, Okayama prefecture, consists of Collect textile division, Momotaro Jeans and Japan Blue Jeans. Collect has more than 10,000 different fabrication qualities from denim, chino, to 7/1 dolce denim to incredible indigo netting, seersucker and so much more. Along with unique and innovative aesthetics, the company has also introduced a new yellow selvedge denim textile containing 30% banana fibre for those denim purists looking for something new.

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J6026 1

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J59993

7922J Wholesome

S784P Rosebowl

8333J Enola

Y

S ales C o n t a c t : J o n a t h a n I n g r a m E mail: j o n a t h a n . I n g r a m @ e l e v a t e t e x tiles.com P hone: + 1 ( 3 3 3 ) 3 7 9 - 6 4 0 2

Cone Denim has been one of the leading fabric innovators for over 128 years, originally based in Greensboro, North Carolina with mills now residing in China and Mexico. Committed to heritage, sustainability and innovation, Cone offers a range of collections including performance, stretch, selvage and natural indigo denim. This season included S Gene+ technology, featuring dual-core stretch yarns, at a variety of stretch levels using 100% recycled REPREVE polyester. As well as antimicrobial protection using ionic fibre technology, they also explored inventive blends including cotton, hemp, Modal and Tencel. Cone Denim has also just completed its first Verification of Origin Audit through Oritain, a product and supply chain traceability specialist. Using a unique process of forensic science for cotton sourcing verification with documentable transparency, so accurate, it is admissible in court. Providing factual evidence behind the companies commitment to sustainable and ethical sourcing practices.

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XAP-3164-A

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XA-3459-C

XA-3459-C

KURUSO

XA-3556-A

S ales C o n t a c t : Z a k i S a l e e m i E mail: z a k i @ e c r e s c e n t . p k Phone: + 9 2 3 0 0 4 00 8 9 9 IG Han d l e : @ c r es c e n t b a h u m a n

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Crescent Bahuman Ltd (CBL), is Pakistan’s first vertically integrated denim facility with a mission of creating the greenest denim ecosystem possible, making conscious efforts in building sustainable cities and communities. This season CBL introduced two new cotton free denim fabrications blending Tencel and hemp, for an authentic look with a softer handfeel, increased drape and fluidity, as well as creating beautifully crafted, indigo novelty weaves.

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Splendido ST28 LG

Tennasse PI22

Rebel Stripe

Rebel Ecru PS

Y

Sales C o n t a c t : R o d o l f o I a r i n i Email:

i n f o @ d d i . m u / r o d o l f o i @ d d i.mu

Phone: + 2 3 0 4 1 2 51 9 0 I G Han d l e : @ d d im a u r i t i u s

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Denim de L'ile limited is a fully vertical denim mill producing fabrics and garments in Mauritius, inspired by an Italian background and taste. Using recycled qualities, recycled dye, laser technology and eco-conscious wet and dry processing to deliver modern, fashion, and trend driven looks with the upmost sustainable practices in mind.

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RR-7556_Yellow

HTX-4753-F

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Sales C o n t a c t : N / A Email: s a l e s @ i nd i g o g a r m e n t s . a e Phone: N / A

Desert Studio Dubai is the research and development and wash center of Indigo Garments FZE, accompanied by Denim Clothing Company (DDC), a world leading manufacturer and Hantex Textile mill in Pakistan.

Being one of the most sustainable and eco-friendly laundries in the world, DSD uses state-of-the-art machinery from Tonello, Brongo and Jeanologia, Desert Studio is committed to creating fresh, evocative and limitless wash and finishing recipes for the high-end, premium denim customer and their vintage handwriting is industry-known. Based in the Dubai desert, they have focussed their attention on eliminating water (as well as harmful chemicals) from their directional and impressive washes.

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IG Han d l e : @ d e s e r t s t u d i o u a e

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Luan Reflexblue

Akiva Mossy

Elegon Reflexblue

Caledon Black OD Black

Sales C o n t a c t : S e d a t S u a l p Email: s s u a l p @ d n m t e x t i l e . c o m Phone: + 9 0 2 1 2 4 6 5 8 0 9 9 IG Han d l e : @ d n md e n i m _

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This season DNM’s special yarn technology brings traditional rigid and vintage looks together and adds a modern twist. With no elastane, the Akiva family offers an authentic denim look without sacrificing comfort. The Shaped 'N Relaxed collection, featuring Caledon Black OD Black and Werra Reflexblue, to provide extreme natural softness, perfect shaping and an authentic look. The Elgon Family consists of all-way stretch fabrics that have comfort stretch in the warp and weft directions. They offer soft and natural handfeel with comfort, making it the perfect example of performance denim.

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HTX-26963-ECF

HTX-26954-ECF

HTX-25805-ECF

HTX-26964-ECF

Sales C o n t a c t : N / A E mail: s a l e s @ h a n t e x . b i z Phone: N / A I G Han d l e : @ d e ni m c l o t h i n g c o m p a n y

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Hantex is the yarn and textile production sector of vertically integrated, Indigo Garments FZE, accompanied by Denim Clothing Company (DDC), a world leading manufacturer, and Desert Studio Dubai, state-of-the-art laundry and one of the most sustainable wash house development centers in the world. Hantex offers an array of fabric innovations from authentic, heritage, rigid selvage to high performance stretch using inventive fibre blends. Many of this season’s fabrics include a high percentages of PCW and BCI cotton content as well as other fibre advances using recycled polyester, hemp, Modal and even corn fibre.

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ISKO22VOL1_37A_D

ISKO22VOL1_48A_D

ISKO22VOL1_49A_D

Y

Sales C o n t a c t : N / A Email: m a r k e t i n g @ i s k o . c o m . t r Phone: + 9 0 2 2 4 2 8 0 7 7 0 0 IG Han d l e : @ i s k o d e n i m

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ISKO combines authentic inspiration with performance, comfort, innovation and style to create advanced textiles with the soul of heritage denim while maintaining over 15 global sustainability certifications. This season’s highlights featured ISKO BlueSkin, ISKO Cosy and ISKO X-Mens. ISKO Blueskin provides both performance and fashion focused qualities in one fabric. The ISKOCosy collection featuring superfine fibres for a softer fabric with a refined, polished denim look. And ISKO X-Men’s, a 14.5 oz heavy weight comfort stretch perfect for men’s heritage styles.

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D6157

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D5329

D6438

D6189

SD1008

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Kilim. Denim is committed to the conscious creation of denim, built with the future in mind. This season Kilim introduces NONOX and NATUREX. NONOX with their Silver-Tech Finish, an antimicrobial, water and oil repellent denim fabrication designed and tested to maintain their antibacterial features by 99% for 20+ washes. NATUREX is a new, notable denim range made of natural, recycled and eco-conscious fibres. NATUREX is Kilim Denim’s most sustainable collection to date, pushing to use the most recycled and natural content possible. Fibre highlights include an extra soft Tencel Refibra blend.

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NS102 5 9

KDA10182-3

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KDA102582

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KDA10462

OGKD10074

Sales C o n t a c t : N / A Email: N / A Phone: N / A

Kurabo, the first company to produce denim in Japan has been supplying leading brands around the world for nearly 50 years. Their commitment to creating consistent high quality, creatively unique and technologically advanced textiles leads the way. ‘The Kurabo Standard’ is their intensive quality control program that represents the highest level of “Japanese Quality” denim. This season featured organic and recycled cotton, intricate dobby weaves, and L∞PLUS, denim reborn from wastage. L∞PLUS fabrications are created using reclaimed denim cutting waste, from the Kurabo spinning room and local partners, produced under high quality control standards, resulting in highly sustainable textiles with reliable traceability by the Japanese supply chain.

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MSN76160

The Greg

Gingham Bill

Y

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Founded in 1948 by the Ueyama Group, Maruwa is a Japanese textile mill specializing in intricate and unique, well considered weaves specializing in natural fibres such as cotton, wool, linen, cellulose, and various blends in between. Combining the best of Japanese minimalism and functionality with innovative aesthetics, Maruwa creates high quality, craftsman like textiles that are rich, modern and timeless.

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NDL- 5 6 1 0 - A - 6 3

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NDL-5610-A-63

NDL-5600-A01

NDL-4927-A-62

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S ales C o n t a c t : R a s h i d I q b a l E mail: r a s h i d @ na v e e n a g r o u p l h r . c o m P hone: + 9 2 4 2 3 5 34 0 0 5 7 6 3

Naveena, a vertically integrated facility specialising in premium yarn and denim with a state-of-the-art production unit, is driven to bring inspiration, innovation and responsibility into the denim world with over 10 global standard certifications including OEKO-TEX Standard 100, Levi’s PI Accredited Lab, OCS and WWF certified. This season featured functional denim with natural fibre tri-blends containing cotton, linen and hemp with thermoregulating properties. Nick Indigo uses less than 1% indigo in the fabric dying process with the resulting textile mimicking a 3-4% indigo shade. Soft Stretch technology was also key, designed to move with the body like a second skin with high stretch and minimal shrinkage.

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NB01866FW

NB01672FH NB01818FH

NB01818FH

NB01665FH

Sales C o n t a c t : U m e r F a r o o q Email: u m e r . f a r o o q @ n e e l a b l u e . c o m Phone: + 9 2 3 0 0 8 91 0 8 3 7 IG Han d l e : @ n e el a d e n i m

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Neela Blue blends innovation and creativity to enhance traditional twill constructions for increasingly unique fabric qualities. This season featured inventive blends including wool content, with visible and durable softness. Bold twills with soft handfeel and colored wefts stood out as key fashion-forward looks. Low environmental impact blends were also key, with hemp, linen, Tencel, pre-consumer waste and Refibra, as well as a cotton free fabrication.

Another highlight includes ‘Revive Denim’, GRS and OCS certified, using post consumer dyed waste denim with no dying process involved.

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6921050200

6921040359

6921030320

20908-409

Sales C o n t a c t : U m a i r R e h m a n Email: U m a i r . r eh m a n @ n i s h a t m i l l s . c o m Phone: + 9 2 3 2 1 7 2 6 0 2 5 9 IG Han d l e : @ n i s h a t _ a p p a r e l

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Nishat Apparel, one of the largest vertically integrated manufacturers in Pakistan, uses all-green chemicals, 10% solar energy and a fully functional Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) to treat effluents before they are dispensed into the external environment to further advance their sustainability goals. This season featured unbleached naturally colored cotton, an up cycled patchwork textile and 'The Green Jean’, a vegetable based dyed, Gotts certified, jean.

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Sales C o n t a c t : A n d r e a V e n i e r Email: i n f o @ o f f i c i n a 3 9 . c o m Phone: + 3 9 0 1 5 8 49 2 9 1 3

Officina+39 works to develop environmentally conscious chemicals and processes to enhance design aesthetics and push innovative, sustainable fabric finishings. They strive to support the textile and garment industries ever changing needs and evolving trends. This season features Recycrom, a revolutionary sustainable dyestuffs range, turning recycled clothing, fibres material and textile scraps into colored powder. The ‘REACT’ collection which uses OZ-One Powder, an advanced waterless bleaching treatment. As well as Nebudye, used to obtain a unique dyeing effect in machines using atomized/nebulized fog systems, drastically reducing water consumption, increasing energy savings and overall lowering the dye processes environmental impact.

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Sales C o n t a c t : D e n i z M u t l u Email: d m u t l u @ o r t a a n a d o l u . c o m Phone: + 9 0 5 3 3 4 92 4 8 2 5 IG Han d l e : @ o r ta _ a n a d o l u

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Orta Anadolu, is a Turkish denim mill aiming to create a healthier denim industry built at the intersection of design, technology and ethics. Dedicated to radical transparency the company recently published their global sourcing map and launched the HERE$GOOD program, which includes new fabric innovations that are less stressful on the farming and cultivating of natural fibres like cotton. They explore eco-engineered and climate friendly fabrics that deliver amazing comfort, softness and performance. This season also features fabrics created using Earthcolors by Archroma, fully traceable biosynthetic dyes derived from natural waste products of the agriculture and herbal industries in a wide range of denim qualities made with pre-consumer recycled cotton, Bio Awake and Freecycle technology.

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Sales C o n t a c t : S a l e s D e p a r t m e n t Email: s a l e s @ t a t f u n g - t e x . c o m Phone: + 8 5 2 3 7 5 95 8 0 0 IG Han d l e : @ p a nt h e r _ d e n i m

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Since 1986, Panther Textiles Holding has been delivering premium denim, piece-dye and printed fabrics through inhouse spinning, dyeing, weaving, finishing and print facilities. After decades of success in the domestic market, Tat Fung Textile Co. was incorporated as a subsidiary of Panther Textiles Holding. Putting their focus to bringing customers the best products available on the market through innovation and emphasis on quality and sustainability.

They say: ‘We put all of our focus to bringing our customers the best products available on the market’ This seasons collections feature the ‘Retrofitting’, ‘EzyMAX’, ‘Everybody Stretch’ as well as Blue-Tech, Dryarn.

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S ales C o n t a c t : P a u l V o g e l E mail: p a u l @ p a u l v o g e l . c o m P hone: + 4 4 0 1 3 9 44 2 1 2 8 8 I G Han d l e : @ p a ul v o g e l d e s i g n

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Paul Vogel set up his design Studio In 1991, one of the first CAD textile design studios in the UK specializing in woven textile design. They now work with a diverse range of clients, in apparel and home textiles. This season we have tapped his extensive archives for a rage of intricate indigo dobby, herringbone, plaid and twill weaves with handcrafted, artisanal appeal.

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E mail: c h r i s . p r i c e @ p t e x t i l e u s a . c o m Phone: N / A I G Han d l e : @ p r os p e r i t y t e x t i l e

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Recognized as one of the cleanest denim mills in the world and a Bluesign system partner, Prosperity Textile combines the best of cotton and indigo to create high quality denim fabrications while reducing overall environmental impact.

This season featured linen, organic cotton and hemp blends, incorporating both stretch and rigid denim in classic heritage washes and shirting weights.

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S ales C o n t a c t : E d a D i k m e n / M a n s o or Bilal Email: e d a . d i k me n @ s o o r t y . c o m mansoo r . b i l a l @ s o o r t y . c o m Phone: + 9 0 5 3 5 3 62 6 2 6 0 / + 9 2 3 3 3 8 2 8 8 827

Soorty operates with quality, cost, innovation and social responsibility at the core of their business, implementing inspiring ideas and solutions to create innovative, circular-focused product. This season includes qualities designed with CiCLO polyester, performance technology and inventive yarn blends. CiCLO fibres are made to biodegrade in natural seawater at greatly accelerated rates compared to similar untreated fibres. Another highlight is a special performance technology engineered to achieve a more flexible and comfortable fabric with 100% stretch capability. The company also tapped into inventive yarn blends, new cellulose and recycled fibres including, hemp, modal, Repreve as well as a cotton free Tencel and Ecovero denim.

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S ales C o n t a c t : C h r i s P r i c e E mail: c h r i s . p r i c e @ p t e x t i l e u s a . c o m Phone: N / A I G Han d l e : @ s t e l l a b l u . t e x t i l e

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Stella Blu, “The Indigo Innovators,” strive to create new age denim textiles and push indigo into other product categories. A Bluesign system partner company with over 10 global industry certifications, Stella Blu aims to create innovative textiles using the most sustainable fibres available including Refibra, EcoVero, Repreve and Tencel. This season featured new textured dobby weaves in top and bottom weights, cotton and nylon indigo athelisure, performance blends, and luxe jacquards.

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Sales C o n t a c t : A l b e r t o G u z z e t t i Email: A g u z z e t ti @ t e j i d o s - r o y o . c o m P hone: ( + 3 4 ) 9 6 1 2 4 0 3 0 0

Tejidos Royo is a Spanish fabric mill established way back in 1903, committed to bettering the denim community through sustainability and technological innovation and traceability. With over 10 global certifications and sustainable initiatives, they have come a long way since their inception. This season included fabrications with Dry Dye technology: Dry Black and Dry Indigo, an AITEX, Eco-Technology certified process. As well as post industrial, post consumer, GRS certified recycled fabrics, the company has also created REBOOT the first upgraded sportswear fabric. The process has been designed to solve the problem of the presence of foreign fibres in the spinning and dying process when creating recycled sportswear fabric, using pre-consumer fibre waste.

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Sales C o n t a c t : A l i c e T o n e l l o E mail: t o n e l l o @ t o n e l l o . c o m P hone: + 3 9 0 4 4 5 34 3 2 0 0

Tonello, is an Italian based machinery and technological research company that has been dedicated to the innovation and advancement of the garment processing sector since 1981. There are currently over 8,500 Tonello machines operating in facilities all over the world, made to evolve with new technological advancements throughout the machines lifecycle. Their ystems include the NOSTONE+ developed in collaboration with Levi’s to overcome the economic, mechanical and environmental limitations of stone washing. WAKE, 100% sustainable technology, first totally natural dying system using only organic and fully compostable raw materials. As well as static cabinets, designed for the sanitization, sterilization and disinfection of garments, footwear, accessories, and protective devices. Made to include boutiques and large retailers in order to offer their consumers a more salient service.

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S ales C o n t a c t : R a l f D i s l i c h E mail: r d @ v i c u n h a - e u r o p e . c h P hone: + 4 1 2 2 3 5 40 2 3 9

Vicunha Europe, one of the largest mills in the world, operates with sustainability at the core of their business while producing creative and innovative product. They are DNV-GL, Global Recycled Standard and OEKO-TEX and Standard 100 certified and participate in the 0 ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals program, High Index and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition programs. This season’s highlights features styles from V.Eco and V.original. The V.Eco line offers solutions for those that are committed to resolve the environmental, social and economic impacts of the denim industry, dyed with Archroma’s Earthcolors containing a high percentage of recycled content qualities, and produced with an overall reduction in all resources required. V.Origionals combines innovative new fabrications, while maintaining the authentic feel of vintage denim.

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ect with nature, how we connect with the brands and companies we buy from and how we connect with ourselves. This year has universally deepened that connection.

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Fabric Edit

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