GFW l Dining l Hasselblad l Star Wars l Cosmetics l Smart tech l
fresh eye
Magazine
Graduate edition
Issue 19. July 2017 Photography Lifestyle Culture
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Contents 18 40
fresh eye
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l Social media
The real deal.
l Javier Bardem
How to be an actor. l Star Wars Identities
London exhibition. l Oyster bars
London by the sea.
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l Hasselblad XPan
Panoramic camera innovation.
l Graduates
London GFW. l Italia
Destination mediteranian.
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l Cosmetics
KKW make-up.
Sponsored by
l iPhone 7
Smart tech.
Cover photography: Damian Foxe.
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The Social Pro File
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ocial media, one of the biggest hits of the 21 st century. The internet has 3.17 billion users of which there are 2.3 billion active social media users, it’s a big business! The most popular and known social media platforms are of course Facebook with 1.71 billion users, Instagram with 400 million and Twitter with 320 million accounts. The numbers are staggering, but what is the point of social media? People of all ages can hop online and share photos, messages and their opinion with the world in just one click. It’s convenient and has become part of people’s everyday lives. It also can be used as a great platform to promote yourself, a brand or a talent. Social media accounts such as LinkedIn with 450 million users and YouTube with over a billion users are clear examples of this. The world is very competitive in every aspect in this day and age; therefore, being able to promote and share your work and lifestyle in this way has huge benefits. But how does social media weight up with reality? I think most are guilty of
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Sophie says.....
Social media psychology by Sophie Fitzjohn.
stretching the truth on social media either by filtering the life out of a photo or simply by taking up all the storage on our phones with identical photos of the same selfie, scene or object, to achieve the ‘perfect’ shot. It’s become a competition of how many ‘likes’ ‘shares’ or ‘comments’ someone gets which determines
‘Portraying the perfect lifestyle’
their popularity or rank in society, it’s a new form of social acceptance but it’s really everyone’s lives through rose tinted glasses From the perfect holiday shot, to the posh restaurant snap and the staged family photo. No one’s lives are as seamless, airbrushed or sad to say, as happy as they come across in that one single photo posted on their social media. However, it’s a way to portray the life and image you wish people to see, perception perfection at its best. It’s great to connect with family, friends and loved ones however being more authentic with our posts would lead to less disappointment and comparison when reality isn’t so great. It should be a log of the good and maybe not so good times that we wish to share with the world. After all everyone faces hard times, as well as amazing triumphs at some points during their lives, and posting both aspects of life would relieve the pressure of portraying the ‘perfect lifestyle’, and normalise people’s perceptions of others.
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I think that people just have this core desire to express who they are. And I think that’s always existed. Mark Zuckerberg Celebrating its 10th anniversary lasy year, Twitter announced it was looking into new measures to prevent abuse and “wage war on the trolls.” These guidelines better be implemented soon, as the app’s popularity continues to decline, and millenials have already moved on to more visuallydriven apps, such as Instagram and Snapchat.
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How to be an actor Scene twelve, Take four - Javier Bardem.
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arch 1, 1969, in the Canary Islands, Spain, Javier Bardem was born into an acting clan and eventually embarked on a film career. He’s worked with director Pedro Almodóvar and earned Academy Award nominations for his roles in Before Night Falls and Biutiful, winning for the chilling No Country for Old Men. Additional projects have included Skyfall and Eat Pray Love. Bardem wed actress Penelope Cruz in 2010. Early Career Bardem’s mother, Pilar Bardem, has appeared in several of her son’s movies—he built a considerable reputation among Spanish movie audiences as the sexy star of such steamy films as Las Edades de Lulu (The Ages of Lulu, 1990); Jamón, jamón (1992); and Huevos de oro (Golden Balls, 1993)—all of which were directed by filmmaker Bigas Luna (Huevos de oro also featured fellow up-and-coming Latino actor Benicio Del Toro). Bardem expanded into more dramatic roles in the mid-1990s, playing a drug addict in Días contados (Numbered Days, 1994) and a police detective in El Detective y la muerte (The Detective and Death, 1994). In 1995, he showed considerable comedic talent when he spoofed his heartthrob image in Boca a boca (Mouth to Mouth), playing a struggling young actor who
gets a job as a phone sex operator. The actor reteamed with celebrated Spanish filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar—who had cast him in 1991’s Tacones lejanos (High Heels)—for 1997’s Carne trémula (Live Flesh), also featuring Spanish actress and future wife, Penelope Cruz. International Breakthrough Bardem’s performance as Cuban writer and revolutionary Reinaldo Arenas, who committed suicide in 1990, following a long struggle with AIDS, in Julian Schnabel’s edgy Before Night Falls (2000) earned him the best reviews of his life—as well as a place on the international radar screen. With several major awards—including best actor honors from the National Board of Review and the National Society of Film Critics—under his belt, Bardem became the first Spanish actor to earn an Academy Award nomination. Bardem went on to tackle a prominent role in actor John Malkovich’s directorial debut, The Dancer Upstairs (2002). After a supporting role in the Tom Cruise-Jamie Foxx thriller Collateral (2004), he starred as a quadriplegic fighting for his right to die in The Sea Inside (2004), based on a true story. Top accalade 2007 Oscar for Best Performance by an Actor in a Supporting Role for No Country for Old Men.
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“I want to act because I don’t know how to do anything else.”
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Star Wars in the City
Above: Millennium Falcon - became one of the standout icons of the early Force Awakens Below left: Everyone’s favourite Chewbacca. Right: Phantom Menace Racing Pod. STAR WARS Identities. The O2- November 2016-September 2017 For almost 40 years, audiences around the world have followed the adventures of Luke and Anakin Skywalker, cinema’s most famous father and son duo. Now you can see your favourite characters like you’ve never seen them before, explore what makes you who you are and discover the Star Wars hero hiding inside you! The stunning collection of some 200 props, models, costumes and artwork from the original Star Wars films, an interactive identity quest and insightful scientific content, all work together in STAR WARS Identities to follow the dramatic journeys of the characters and help you create your very own Star Wars identity. Visitors will develop a better understanding of what makes the characters of Star Wars who they are, and at the same time explore their own identity with one question: What forces shape you? WHO ARE YOU? AND HOW DID YOU GET THAT WAY? STAR WARS™ Identities explores the theme of identity using ten components that help make us who we are: species, genes, parents, culture, mentors, friends, events, occupation, personality, and values. These ten components are grouped into the exhibition’s three main sections, which follow the progression of identity from childhood to adulthood: first Origins, then Influences, and finally Choices. This thematic backbone gives structure not only to the educational content of the exhibition but to the Star Wars collection as well. From a scientific perspective, visitors learn how these components affect identity. Ten videos, one per component, combine clips from Star Wars with animated graphics explaining how each component plays a part in shaping who we are—“we” in this case referring simultaneously to the fictional characters of the Star Wars universe and to the visitors themselves. www.starwarsidentities.com
Get to know the characters of Star Wars... Sponsored by
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Exhibition
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Who are you? and how did you get that way? - Star Wars Idendities -
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Exhibition Above: Star Wars Idendity - Anakin Above top centre: Get to know how to do basic spins and how you can create your own exciting lightsaber duels. Above top right: Storm Trooper display. Above right: Spaceship collection.
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Pick up your lightsaber. Your adventure into identity awaits.
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Exhibition Top left: C-3PO costume parts. Top centre: The inner mask of Darth Vader Above: The notorious Darth Vader. Above right: Boba Fett and Star Troopers.
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Who would you be if you were a character from Star Wars? A Twi’lek bounty hunter? A Wookiee Jedi Knight? Or maybe an Ewok with fighter-pilot skills?
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Early character archive. Do we really have to name them? Oh ok then... From left to right: Princes Leia, Han Solo, Yoda, Luke Skywalker.
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Sponsored by
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Oyster Bar
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The world is yours Oyster bars in London.
The Commander Porterhouse and Oyster Bar Notting Hill Smart, spacious and stylish, the Commander Porterhouse & Oyster Bar Notting Hill is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with seafood platters available throughout the day until late from the Oyster Bar. You can be sure of a warm welcome whether you fancy a drink at the bar, à la carte dinner or anything in between. International cuisine with a South African twist, with the menu seasonal, and the ingredients as fresh as possible, of the highest quality and ethically sourced. Location: 47 Hereford Road, Notting Hill, London, W2 5AH
J.Sheekey St. Martin’s Court
Caviar House Oyster Bar - Harrods Knightsbridge
Tucked away on St Martin’s Court between Covent Garden and Leicester Square, J Sheekey is an iconic London restaurant which has been serving the finest fish and shellfish for over 100 years. Tables look on to the elegant oyster and Champagne bar with the full à la carte menu being served throughout the day from 12 noon. A stone’s throw from many of the vibrant quarters of Soho. The National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, StMartin-in-the-Fields are just around the corner. Location: 28-32 St Martin’s Court, London WC2N 4AL
Located in the serene elegance of our Fish Hall, the Caviar House Oyster Bar offers a selection of the finest seasonal oysters, plus a gourmand assortment of seafood platters, caviar and handsliced smoked salmon. In association with Caviar House and Prunier, the Oyster Bar affords the opportunity to sample such legendary offerings as Fines de Claires, Montpelier, Portland Royals, Loch Ryans and Falmouth Oysters, with an expert complement of wines and Champagnes. Location: 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL
‘He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.’ Jonathan Swift
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Hasselblad XPan
Rangefinding panoramic film. Sponsored by
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Product
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The Xpan is a panoramic format 35mm film camera. A standard 35mm frame is 24mm high x 36mm wide. The Xpan frame is 24mm high x 65mm wide, a little bit less than twice as wide as a standard frame. You can switch between standard and panoramic format Background Back in 1998 the choice of Fuji & Hasselblad to create such a niche camera was bold in itself, made even bolder (and riskier) by its release in the later days of the reign of film. As the market continued to shift from film to digital – before the renaissance of film we’re seeing now – two brands dared to do something that’s rather ridiculous if you think about it, they decided to create an expensive, costly in both market price and development, new system with a new mount for a niche group of photographers. Make no mistake about it, the Hasselblad X-Pan isn’t a camera designed for hobbyists, it’s a professional level system with optics to rival even the mighty M glass in both price and quality. Building upon the success of the original XPan, the unique dual format XPan II produces high quality panorama or standard format images on regular 35mm film. With the introduction of XPan II the camera
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is further improved to make it simpler to operate yet even more advanced for different customer preferences. The shutter release can be triggered by button, mechanically, via a dedicated electrical remote cable, or selftimer. And, being a rangefinder camera, the Xpan II is very silent in operation. Switching between formats is easily done with the simple twist of a knob. When changing format the camera automatically adjusts the film position to assure consistent film spacing and to avoid film waste. Conclude In short, the Hasselblad X-pan is a one of a kind camera, nothing else is like it - nothing. If you love shooting rangefinders, street, landscapes, or just love a great camera that offers you a different view on the world, you owe it to yourself to spend some time with one of these beautiful machines!
The camera’s motorized film advance can be set for single frame or continuous shooting.
7/7/17
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GFW - Graduate Fashion Week 2017 Graduate Fashion Week is the world’s leading event celebrating the creativity of students and graduates within fashion, featuring 22 catwalk shows from over 40 universities and attracting in excess of 30,000 guests.
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raduate Fashion Week (GFW), one of the UK’s most important fashion events, was back for it’s 26th consecutive year last month. The four-day event, whose ambassadors and patrons include Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, Vivienne Westwood and photographer, Nick Knight, showcases the talent of the future at their most unrestricted. Creativity abounds and it’s not just design, the next generation of marketers, photographers, illustrators and creative directors will also exhibit. A weekend full of catwalk shows and fashion presentations.
A perfect entry for industry professionals to snap up the emerging talent before they are set free for global domination. GFW has a great alumni including the likes of Stella McCartney, Giles Deacon (who recently designed Pippa Middleton’s wedding dress), Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald. Fashion note “I do believe that British students are flourishing because you have the best education system in England that gives Art & Design students the freedom to think, to dream and to do.” Alber Elbaz.
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Swatch Creative Director Carlo Giordanetti
GFW is the world’s largest event for BA Fashion talent. Above: Frankie Dean, Edinburgh College of Art Photography - Damian Foxe
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Fashion Above left: Liam Falcus, Northumbria Above centre: Alicja Teper, Southampton Solent Photography - Damian Foxe Above right: University of East London Highly praised show showcases unique materials and diverse skillset
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UNIVERSITY OF EAST LONDON Highly praised show showcases unique materials and diverse skillset.
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Fashion Above left: Jamie Backshall , UCA Epsom Above centre: Maddie William, Edinburgh College of Art Above right: The Boiler Room Campaign Photography - Damian Foxe
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A graduates shortlist were lucky enough to be picked for a pre GFW campaign where they shot some items from their collections at The Boiler House in Brick lane worn by models and influencers.
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Fashion Above left: Karlmond wears Daniel Rynne from the Arts University of Bournemouth Above centre: Joel wears Jamie Backshall from UCA Epsom Above right: Martell wears Sarah Shepherd from the University of South Wales
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Menswear at Graduate Fashion Week.
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Fashion Above left: JMartell wears Georgina Jefferies from the University of Portsmouth. Above centre: Northumbria University back stage. Above right: Naomi Cunningham Norwich University of Arts.
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“Supporting and working with the next generation of talent is the best way to inspire innovation and impact in our industry.� NADJA SWAROVSKI a sponsor of the event.
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Fashion
eading London Fashion, Art and Design School, Istituto Marangoni proud to announce its very own stand alone Graduate Fashion Week Show. This year 10 graduates of 2017 showcased their collections at the grand Christ Church Spitalfields nestled within the heart of East London once famed for iconic, glorious and radical moments in contemporary fashion. Among the 10 students, Ece Sahin was awarded Designer of the Year. Originally from Istanbul, Turkey, previously studied in Milan for one year before
joining Istituto Marangoni London. Her graduate collection is called “Then I Recognised Her“, focusing on prosopagnosia, which is a congnitive condition in which people are unable to recognise faces, including themselves. Her garments have been made by considering their condition and every detail has been placed intelligently, to assist with the recognition process. In order to keep the distinction in the collection she used a variety of techniques and materials, including 3D printing and lasercutting.
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Our very own columnist Sophie Fitzjohn comes of fashion age as a Graduate Fashion Week exhibitor. The ‘Blossom Blackout Collection’ at GFW by Sophie Fitzjohn who graduated from Norwich University of Arts. Testiment that colour is an essential ingredient in fashion expression. Fresheye Magazine is proud to present a young emerging voice and creator to its pages. We celebrate fashion, culture and lifestyle by bringing commentary and showcasing artisans, designers, writers and creators.
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Fashion Above : Mal Burkinshaw Director of the ECA and All Walks Diversity Network. Edinburgh College of Arts student Halina North scooped the top prize at the annual gala show, marking the end of Graduate Fashion Week. Photograph: Qavi Reyez
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Halina North Designs included super-wide leg trousers trimmed with shredded strips and high-shine puffer jackets stuffed with the material.
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Fashion Graduate Fashion Week organized the renowned International Catwalk Competition, the event was sponsored by Swarovski. The winner of this year’s competition is menswear designer Po-Chieh Chiu, who received a prize of £1,000, alongside the opportunity to showcase his collection with Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week this coming September.
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“The culture of fashion has many different aspects in different parts of the world and each country enjoys expressing their own identity.� Adrien Yakimov Roberts, International Trustee at Graduate Fashion Week.
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Travel Above: Tuscany Far right: Flourence Right: Venice
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Destination Italy Looking for mediterranean treasure.
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hy would a traveller choose Italy as a travel destination? It’s spendicious cross over from scenery to appetizing fresh and healthy food that the country has gained creative ownership? Or could it be a rustic sense of real culture that genuinely captures imagination? What’s all the fuss? Tuscany is what many people around the world envision as a true representation of Italy. Rolling hills. Stone farmhouses. Vineyards. Olive groves. It is one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations and many travelers choose to rent a Tuscan villa and live like Italians for a week or two. Six areas in Tuscany are protected by UNESCO: the Val d’Orcia, the cathedral of Pisa, and the historic centers of Florence, San Gimignano, Pienza and Siena. The Etruscans were the first major civilization in this area and their imprint can be found throughout the region. Tuscany was the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and there is history around every corner. The city of Florence is known by many tag lines — “city of art” or “cradle of the Renaissance” or “city of Stone” — to name just
a few. They all point to the fact that Florence is a world capital of art and architecture. Two of the world’s greatest museums are musts for any visit to Firenze — the Uffizi Galleries for works by Botticelli, Giotto and da Vinci and the Accademia for the David by Michelangelo. There are many more art museums to explore and so much to do in Florence. Buy a gelato and take a stroll over the Ponte Vecchio. Visit the Boboli Gardens on a lovely day. Shop for leather in one of the markets. Dive into a traditional Tuscan meal at one of the city’s great trattorie. Venice - There is something so different in Venice from any other place in the world, that you leave at once all accustomed habits and everyday sights to enter an enchanted garden. Erica Jong wrote of Venice, “It is the city of mirrors, the city of mirages, at once solid and liquid, at once air and stone.”
Seeing, tasting and being is believing.
www.dreamofitaly.com
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Brand awareness KKW. Make-up the Kardashian way.
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ocial media has been buzzing with speculation since Kim Kardashian West announced that she was launching a beauty range last week. Having drip fed fans information via her Twitter and Instagram accounts, Kim faced both applause for finally branching out into beauty and disdain for her ‘blackwashing’ imagery. Some fans even accused the reality TV star of treading on her younger sister Kylie Jenner’s business. As soon as Kim announced that her debut product would be a contouring kit though, it all fell into place with Kylie Cosmetics taking colour cosmetics and KKW Beauty focusing on base make-up. For fans, the wait is finally over and today the reality star’s Creme Contour and Highlight Kit is available to buy online. What is the Creme Contour and Highlight Kit? While it might have been inevitable that Kim launched her beauty range with a contouring product, considering she brought the
technique to the masses, the reality TV star has explained, “The reason I wanted to do cream contour first is that I’ve been wearing less make-up recently. I love to look bronzy and tanned.” KKW Beauty Contouring Kit At first glance, the kit looks impressively easyto-use and foolproof. There are four shades; light, medium, dark and deep dark, and each stick has a matte finish cream at one end and highlighter at the other. There’s also a dualended tool to blend with a sponge and a brush. What’s next for KKW Beauty? In an interview with WWD, Kim confirmed that we can expect more from KKW Beauty and she’s not restricting it to make-up. “A lot of my stuff is going to be for skin… It’s going to be a different vibe; it’s not going to be a full colour cosmetics range with shadows and all of that to start.” So stay tuned for KKW Beauty skincare... Go see www.kimkardashianwest.com
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“I hate when women wear the wrong foundation colour. It might be the worst thing on the planet when they wear their makeup too light.� Kim Kardashian
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iPhone 7 reflection With iOS11 coming out in Autumn, it sets a new standard for iPhone’s advanced mobile operating system. More reason to look at number 7.
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It Can Shoot in RAW and JPEG
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‘ iPhone 7 dramatically improves the most important aspects of the iPhone experience. It introduces advanced new camera systems. The best performance and battery life ever in an iPhone. Immersive stereo speakers. The brightest, most colourful iPhone display. Splash and water resistance. It looks every bit as powerful as it is.
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12-megapixel iSight camera. Wider aperture lens, f1.8. optical image stabilization. TrueTone flash is 50 percent brighter. Two cameras that shoot as one. Optical zoom at 2x Digital zoom up to 10x. Wide angle and telephoto.
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AirPods will forever change the way you use headphones. Whenever you pull your AirPods out of the charging case, they instantly turn on and connect to your iPhone, Apple Watch, iPad or Mac.(1) Audio automatically plays as soon as you put them in your ears and pauses when you take them out. To adjust the volume, change the song, make a call or even get directions, just double-tap to activate Siri.
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Wireless. Effortless. Magical.
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Capabilities of the iPhone 7 to capture striking images against unforgivingly low light.