l Jewellery
fresh eye
Adornment edition
Nature l Nike l Fashion l Photography l Joaquin Pheonix l
Magazine
Issue 47. November 2018 Photography Lifestyle Culture
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52 Contents
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Joaquin Pheonix leads the way.
Shoemaker
Umbrellas.
l Joker
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l Tyler Perry
Film maker extraordinaire
l Kawaguchi
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l Seek nature
The importance. l Adornment
A jewellery presentation. l Green city
Singapore in green. l Gotta have it!
Product desire.
l Record breaker
Kipchoge and Nike unite. l Veganism
Animal opt out.
Sponsored by
l Lockwood
l Jacqeumus
S/S 2020
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l Lizzy Gadd
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l Underground
Cafe Cript.
Cover image: Pinterest archive
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The importance of n
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Everything us as humans need to survive throughout life and thrive, has been provided by the natural world around us; from food and water to medicine and materials for shelter, and even natural cycles such as climate and nutrients. Nature is one amazing resource which gives everything and everyone around us life. Therefore, it’s no surprise that there are growing numbers of studies and campaigns highlighting evidence that a connection with nature makes us healthier and happier people. For example, studies have shown that people exposed to the natural world showed increased self-esteem levels, increased creativity, the ability to exercise effectively and the chance to discover new things. In some cases nature can also significantly improve symptoms of Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD) as it provides a calming influence and helps to aid concentration. Nature is also a helpful source for people suffering from physical or mental health illnesses, such as depression
Mother nature for nurture.
and anxiety, as interacting and being part of nature can help people control their symptoms or even recover, due to the calming relief and clarity nature provides, with additional conventional medication. Nature isn’t a miracle cure for disease, but by simple interacting with it, spending time
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Nature
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Sophie says.....
nature in life in it and experiencing and appreciating it around us, we can reap the benefits and numerous rewards it provides to help us feel happier and healthier. Research evidence also provides information that exposure to nature can reduce hypertension otherwise known as abnormally high blood pressure, respiratory tract and cardiovascular illnesses. Also if you need an instant mood boost, going for a walk or doing an activity outside has been proven to improve vitality and mood and restore attention capacity and mental fatigue. But as well as that, it has even more to give! As feeling a part of nature has been shown to significantly correlate with life satisfaction, vitality, meaningfulness, happiness, mindfulness, and lower cognitive anxiety.
by Sophie Fitzjohn.
Wake up to the natural world.
With all this positive evidence that nature can have such a good impact on us, there is a need to normalise everyday nature as part of a healthy lifestyle. The real challenge is getting more people involved, so they can to experience the real benefits of nature and all it has to offer. In this case it’s also a reciprocal relationship because as important as nature has been shown for our health benefits and overall happiness, our interactions with the natural world are just as important for protecting nature and the environment too. This is because the more people care intrinsically for their local environments and value the positive impact it has on their own lives, and others around them, the more they’ll want to protect the environment from damage and destruction. It’s about caring for, cherishing and protecting our environments and wild spaces, which give us so many rewards, benefits and positivity so freely, it’s for natures sake and for ours.
Quote - “Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.” Albert Einstein
“One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.” William Shakespeare
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It’s all in the
Presentation T
he expression ‘it’s all in the presentation’ is never more prevalent when delivering beuatiful visions for product and brand. Fresheye takes a close look at some sintilating product jewellery photography to illustrate the point. Conceptual From organic extracts of nature to rare props and artifacts, inspirational ideas to exemplify jewellery can see many guises. The usual employment of contrast, colour and tesxture can be found. But what makes for a
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contemoray look and appeal? And, what made the cut for the collection of images displayed in this feature? Simplicty, graphic/organic form, purtiy and novelty. Needless to mention great non reflective filtered lighting. These are the common ingredients needed to paint the best picture with a modern visual story to tell. Consider the campaigns and editorial features that utilise still life to showcase those watches, pendants, necklaces, earings and bracelets. You will notice an attention to detail that focuses on the forementioned ingredients. Be jewellery inspired!
Jewellery
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Sempervivan and coloured diamond. Yellow Diamonds (also known as Canary Yellow Diamonds and Canary Diamonds) are the most common form of Colored Diamonds. Within the range of rare colored diamonds (only 1 carat out of every 10,000 carats mined is a natural fancy color diamond), the yellow diamond has gained tremendous popularity because of its beautiful shine and its relatively affordable prices.
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Shopping note Discover the Fine Jewellery collection for women, featuring rings, bracelets and necklaces in 18 kt gold, perfect for gifting LOUIS VUITTON Official UK Website: https://uk.louisvuitton. com/eng-gb/women/finejewellery
Jewellery
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Lillies and diamonds. Approximately 130,000,000 carats (26,000 kg) of diamonds are mined annually, with a total value of nearly US$9 billion, and about 100,000 kg (220,000 lb) are synthesized annually. Roughly 49% of diamonds originate from Central and Southern Africa, although significant sources of the mineral have been discovered in Canada, India, Russia, Brazil, and Australia.
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Red wine Gerald Scarfe was born in London. After a brief period at the Royal College of Art in London, he established himself as a satirical cartoonist, working for Punch magazine and Private Eye during the early sixties, and in 1967 he began a long association with the Sunday Times as their political cartoonist, also carrying out reportage assignments in Vietnam, the Middle East, India and Northern Ireland.
Jewellery
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Stone, paper and autumn leave.
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Ancient world jewellery note Jewellery is a universal form of adornment. Jewellery made from shells, stone and bones survives from prehistoric times. It is likely that from an early date it was worn as a protection from the dangers of life or as a mark of status or rank.
Jewellery
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Block, leaf and fabric. According to historical excavation and analysis, jewellery was first invented by the Cro-Magnons, early ancestors of modern day Homo sapiens who lived in Europe and Africa. Beads made from nassarius shells over 100,000 years old are considered to be the earliest form of jewellery.
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Jewellery
Watch note In 1904, pilot Alberto Santos Dumont asked Louis Cartier to come up with a timekeeping alternative that would allow him to keep both hands on the controls while timing his performances during flight.
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Candy, leaf and newsprint. In 1868, Patek Phillipe created the first wristwatch. However, Constant Girard developed a lasting concept of wristwatches in 1880, when 2,000 watches were made for German naval officers. This production represented the first important commercialization of wristwatches.
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Jewellery
Jewellery note Left: Cartier Since 1937 - From dazzling to delicate, from classic to original. Take a look at the latest jewellery collections. www.cartier.co.uk Above: Bulgari Italian luxury brand kNown for its jewellery, watches, fragrances, accessories and leather goods.
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Bulgari was founded in the region of Epirus, Greece, in 1884 by the silversmith Sotirios Boulgaris (Italian: Sotirio Bulgari) as a single jewellery shop that has, over the years, become an international brand.
Light and shade.
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Green city
Singapore - Asia’s greenest city by Dennis Sterne.
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nown as Asia’s greenest city, , and with one of the highest population densities in the world, Singapore has long favoured innovative environmentally friendly ideas. Singapore’s meteoric economic rise launched a landscape of towering architecture in the compact city-state, but as the metropolis continues to grow, urban planners are weaving nature throughout, and even into its heights. New developments must include plant life, in the form of green roofs, cascading vertical gardens, and verdant walls. The push to go green extends to construction - green building has been mandatory since 2008. Much of that vision to keep Singapore both sustainable and livable stems from Cheong Koon Hean, the first woman to lead Singapore’s urban development agency. The veteran architect and urban planner is credited with reshaping the skyline through landmark
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projects such as the waterfront residential and entertainment quarter Marina Bay - whose gardens are one of the city’s top draws - and the Jurong Lake District, slated to be a second business district and home to a new highspeed rail link to neighboring Malaysia. Cheong is now CEO of the Housing and Development Board, which builds and manages public housing for most of Singapore’s 5.6 million people. Singapore’s sleek version of public housing emphasizes community-centric towns (there are 23) and amenities. Park Royal on Pickering The hotel (right)was designed by WOHA, a Singapore-based architecture firm known for incorporating extensive greenery in their buildings. Designed to be a ‘hotel-in-a-garden’, Parkroyal on Pickering features extensive greenery, including green walls, water features and 15,000 square meters of tiered ‘sky u
Singapore
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Above - Park Royal completed in 2013 by award winng archtect Richard Hassell - WOHA. Left - Gardens by the Bay. Gardens by the Bay is an independent organisation responsible for developing and managing one of Asia’s foremost garden destinations.
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gardens’. The hotel’s sky gardens are designed to be self-sustaining consuming minimal energy through solar cells, motion sensors, rainwater harvesting and reclaimed water.
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Bishan Bishan, also known as either Bishan New Town or Bishan Town, is a planning area and matured residential town located at the northernmost portion of the Central Region of Singapore. Statistically, the area is ranked the 38th biggest in terms of geographical size and the 21st most populated planning area in the country. It is located at the most Central point of Singapore, and is made out of Upper Thomson, Sin ming, Bishan North, Marymount and Bishan east. There are also many private residential properties in Bishan. This however, makes Bishan ranked 15th in terms of population density. Bishan New Town became the first in Singapore to depart from the brutalist design seen in most previous Housing and Development Board (HDB) towns. Instead of slab-like residential blocks that were built in uniformed rows, apartment blocks in Bishan varied in height and were often dislocated. Flats within the town also featured pitched roofs which have since become closely associated with the skyline of Bishan. The town is also home to two of Singapore’s most prestigious educational institutions, Catholic High School and Raffles Institution.
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Singapore
Bishan Planning Area, as defined by Singapore’s Urban Redevelopment Authority is situated in the Central Region of Singapore, bounded by planning areas of Ang Mo Kio to the north, Toa Payoh to the south and Serangoon to the east.
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Bishan derived its name from the Cantonese term for large burial ground, Peck San Theng which literally translates as ‘pavilions on the green’.
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www.buckitt.co.uk
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Gotta have it! fresh eye
Product 1957 Ferrari 250 GT LWB Tour de France. Ferrari’s 250 GT Competizione was produced from 1956 to ‘59 to suit the unique mix of circuit racing, hill climb and drag race stages of the Tour de France. It so dominated the event that the model was nicknamed for it.
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Travel fast.
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Product Above: Chanel BOY¡FRIEND Skeleton Watch. Manual-winding mechanical movement. Water resistance: 30 m. Dimensions: 37 x 28.6 x 8.4 mm Above right: Vanity Faucets shower and bathroom fictures.
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Time to shower.
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Product fresh eye
Above: Bright, solar warmth cascading over the sensual floral nuances of orchids. Orchid Soleil by Tom Ford was launched in 2016 and features an elegant fusion of white floral and oriental accords. Above right: Womens Ray-Ban Erika Black Sunglasses with Grey Lenses, RB4171 622/8G Right: Prada brown tote.
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Smelling good, looking good.
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Ready, Steady, Go... Fresheye’s honours a historic moment in sport. Eliud Kipchoge and Nike unite in a sub 2hr marathon epic triumph.
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Sporting Triumph
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Eliud Kipchoge. Nike
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Zoom Vapourfly. Nike
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Eliud Kipchoge breaks the record. Nike
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Stuff of legends. Eliud Kipchoge
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Contoured and light. Nike
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Mark of dedication. Eliud Kipchoge
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Spring in to life. Nike
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Experienced vegan
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egan is undoubtably cool. Search for #vegan and you are awash with colourful pictures of post workout snacks, and enough avocados to feed a small nation for a week. It’s not just posts in Instagram; the number of vegans has staggeringly climbed by over 350% in the past ten years too. Prolific celebrities have played a part in making veganism to be cool, with characters such as Beyoncé, Brad Pitt and Ariana Grande adopting the vegan lifestyle. And not to mention the recent popularity of Veganuary. So what does vegan actually mean? Can I still wear blue suede shoes? The vegan society define vegan as “a way of living that seeks to exclude, as far as possible and practicable, all forms of exploitation, and cruelty to animals for food, clothing or any other purpose”. So, blue suede shoes are out of the question. Being vegan in 2018 involves an overhaul of your whole lifestyle: from your diet, to your clothes and even down to the shampoo that you use. But what if you just want to be a bit healthier? What if you only want to look at your diet? How do you get started?
The approved avoidance of animal consumption by Harry Fishpool. I am vegan and the purpose of this article is to pass on the little tricks that I used to get my self going on a vegan diet. Some people can change their whole lifestyle in seemingly effortless heartbeat. Some people find it harder and, naturally, it takes more time. I am the latter of the two: it took me 6 months to shift onto a vegan diet. First up, the ‘five colours’ rule. Getting five portions of fruit and veg in can be a bit of a bore, and you feel you are blindly following your grandmother’s eternal message of ‘at your greens’. Start with 5 colours a day; yellow, red, blue, green and green. Get fruits and veggies of these colours in and you’ll be on your way. You can even build it up to 5 colours with a meal. It’s a great way of making your meals a bit more exciting! After all, they say you eat
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Vegan
Credit Harry Fishpool is studying an a MSc in Human Nutrition at University of Surrey. His wine knowledge gained from WSET level 3 Award in Wine.
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Harry says..... with your eyes. Your vegan journey will mos likely start in the supermarket. When I first started to explore veganism, one of my tricks was to do a normal food shop, but just before getting to the checkout, I would swap a non-vegan food with something that was vegan. You can swap anything: milk for soya milk, sausages for meat-free sausages, or mincemeat for lentils. The possibilities are seemingly endless. After a while, you will gradually acclimatise yourself to a vegan diet. If you are willing to give it time it is a great way to discover new foods. Eating out when vegan can be tricky. Most restaurants have vegetarian and vegan options available on their menus. More often than not, vegetarian dishes can be altered slightly to suit a vegan. Normally it will just be the chef giving the dish a miss on the final flurry of parmesan cheese or dollop of crème fraîche. Also, as a guest of the restaurant, it’s your job to hold up your end of the bargain. You can’t suddenly decide you deserve a dessert or a swig of Bailey’s. Nothing annoys restaurant staff more than a flip-flopping customer! But after you’ve put your order in and your meal comes out of the kitchen, it will arrive to you with crip colour, fabulous flavour and tantalising texture. All your friends will be eyeballing your dinner and licking their lips, whilst you sit with a grin on your face, from ear to ear, and hear jealous cries of ‘oh, I wish I chose that!’.
More and more people are turning to a vegan diet for the health benefits: increased energy, younger looking skin and eternal youth are just some of the claims from enthusiastic plant eaters. Well, eternal youth might be a bit optimistic, but there are certainly many scientifically proven benefits to vegan living when compared to the average western diet.
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Film review
A no joke performance Joaquin Phoenix in full flight by Dennis Sterne.
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hen a movie receives polarised reviews and much talk surrounding it - it’s an invitation to experience it for yourself. Experience it I did, and my verdict is none short of a brilliant display in acting and directing. Will I go far as to say that Joker is one of the best examples of cinematic film making? Yes, I can safely say I think it certainly is. Joaquin Phoenix summons a performance quite simply worthy of an Oscar and the highest praise. This high performance was anticipated from Phoenix, an actor pocessing impressive ‘acting chops’ as the expression goes. Director and Screen Writer Todd Philips from the ‘Hangover’ movies masterfully conjures a robust and poetically observed
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lament into the making of the character Joker. So much so that this story reveals how and why the ills of a troubled society breed psychological trauma and its rebellious and dark after effect. Joker as the comic book villain is shrouded in mystery which lends to the popularity and intrigue of the character - arguably one of the most notable villains in the graphic novel world. This film adaptation makes a believable account of the dark journey of a man on the fringes of society, albeit in Gotham City, a fictional city encoded in bleakness and here lies the film’s strength. A depiction of an all too real account of how the inhabitants of a city can manufacture an eat or be eaten inhumane system of survival. u The film’s style and visual components are
Film
Isolated, bullied and disregarded by society, failed comedian Arthur Fleck begins a slow descent into madness as he transforms into the criminal mastermind known as the Joker.
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“It was complex in a way that other movies I flirted with weren’t.” Joaquin Phoenix
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said to echo ‘Taxi Diver’ (1976). Todd Philips leaning heavily on artistic influence and casts Robert De Niro no less who also starred in the film ‘The King of Comedy’ (1983) where he also plays a show host. If in doubt add an ample sprinkling of Martin Scorsese artistic and directive style to the mix and taste. This is the first time The Joker gets his lead as a character for a film. If you are a fan of Heath Ledger’s Joker in ‘Dark Knight Rises’ then prepare to make some acting brilliance comparisons. The Jury may be out as to which you prefer. All in all the final impression of this palatable ensemble ‘Joker’ is one of impressive memorable satisfaction. Go see!
Preparation For Joaquin Phoenix, becoming the Clown Prince of Crime involved a lot more than makeup and a colorful suit. He lost over 50 pounds in order to take on the titular character. Phoenix said that he began by researching the side effects of medication on patients.
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Shedding all those pounds, Pheonix discovered a new kind of freedom in terms of body movement, which he said was significant in how the character moves in the film.
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Film maker
Tyler Perry is an American actor, writer, producer, and director. In 2011, Forbes listed him as the highest paid man in entertainment, earning $130 million USD between May 2010 and May 2011. Far right: Tyler Perry playing Madea’s muumuu.
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Tyler Perry’s Giant Steps What are the odds? - Perry is happy to beat them.
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erry was born and raised in New Orleans, to Willie Maxine (Campbell) and Emmitt Perry, Sr. His mother was a churchgoer and took Perry along with her once a week. His father was a carpenter and they had a very strained and abusive relationship, which led Perry to suffer from depression as a teenager. In 1991, he was working an office job, when he saw an episode of The Oprah Winfrey Show (1986) discussing the therapeutic nature of writing. This inspired him to begin writing and he worked through his bad experiences by writing letters to himself. He adapted his letters into a play, “I Know I’ve Changed”, about domestic abuse. Unfortunately, after renting a theater in Atlanta to put on the play, he failed to attract audiences. He took on a series of odd jobs and found himself living in his car. But, in 1998, he was given a second chance to stage his play and,
this time, he was more business-savvy with his marketing. The play was sold-out and drew attention from investors. Tyler has gone on to established a successful career as a writer, director and producer for stage, television and film. Tyler Perry Studios Acquired by Tyler Perry in 2015, the 330acre lot is located in the heart of Atlanta on the historic grounds of the former Fort McPherson army base. The major motion picture studio, one of the largest production facilities in the country, showcases forty buildings on the National Register of Historic Places, twelve purpose-built sound stages, 200 acres of greenspace and a diverse backlot. Tyler Perry Studios Fort McPherson is the fourth expansion in the lineage of the writer, actor, producer, director, and philanthropist’s creative empire. www.tylerperrystudios.com
Art
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The of Shoji Kawaguchi “At first glance, it is basic and modest but it has an elegance. Such was my ideal shoe which I wanted to craft.” Mr Shoji Kawaguchi says.
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Shoe
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Loving the craft of a tradition.
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Mr. Kawaguchi is the founder of “MARQUESS”, the bespoke shoe brand in Ginza. After working at prestigious English shoe brands such as “Foster & Son” and “Edward Green”, he has earned a reputation as a highly skilled artisan both in Japan and abroad.
Shoe
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Bespoke shoes are fully customized shoes which start from meeting the customer in person to take precise measurements of the foot in order to create wooden lasts. During this process, the shoemaker listens to the customer’s request to understand the preference and to select the right model and material.
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From his teenage years, Mr. Kawaguchi was an admirer of English fashion and culture. After graduating from his local university, Mr. Kawaguchi applied for the Footwear Training Centre at the Tresham Institute in Northampton, the haven of English shoemaking and the place where prestigious shoe brands such as “John Lobb” and “Edward Green” stands, to study shoemaking without any basic knowledge in advance. However, what Mr. Kawaguchi learned at the institute was the technique for creating mass production shoes. It was not until his visit to a shoe museum in Northampton where he met a pair of bespoke shoes which made his world change.
Shoe
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The bespoke method At “MARQUESS�, the process from receiving the order to the completion takes more than a year. www.marquess-bespoke.blogspot.com
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Jacquemus
2020
S/S
Simon Porte Jacquemus was marking his first decade as a designer with an epic coed show on his home soil Provence.
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Fashion
Essence: At just 29, Simon Porte Jacquemus counts Rihanna, BeyoncĂŠ and Bella Hadid as fans. The Jacquemus brand genuinely is youth, sexiness, fun, and optimism bottled. Sales are soaring.
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“I wanted it to look like a David Hockney painting or a Christo installation through the fields, with lots of prints. A painting within a painting, in a field. Provençal Pop!”
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Fashion
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Escape from dystopian angst, the return to childhood, and the longing for youthful fun.
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Fashion
One million-strong Instagram following. He doesn’t pay anyone to wear his designs, and the fact that Beyoncé buys from his online store, just like any other woman in pursuit of a knockout dress, “is the biggest compliment,” he says. “Not just because they are a star, but because they have everything, and they chose to wear Jacquemus.”
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“I wanted something sophisticated but at the same time as light as a cocktail in summer,�
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Portrait of a woman Elizabeth Gadd is a photographer/artist/ writer based in Vancouver, Canada. Having grown up in this beautiful area, she fell easily in love with exploring the surrounding forests, fields, mountains and ocean - All of which are heavily incorporated in her photography.
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Photography
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You would most likely find Elizabeth travelling, hiking or backpacking, creating, collaborating with others, eating too much chocolate, adventuring with her dog, and looking for beauty in the world.
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First picking up a camera in 2005 at the age of 12, she began creating photographs involving nature and landscapes, eventually leading to the whimsical combination of landscapes with human portraiture (usually self-portraits) that she’s known for today.
Photography
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“I’m mostly inspired by the sensations I feel when in nature - Wonder, awe, exhilaration, tranquility and peace.”
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This niche of Lizzy’s photography has been described by others as fairytale-esque, dreamy, peaceful and full of wanderlust - drawing an organic accumulation of 475,000+ followers across her social platforms.
Photography
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“I want to try to capture feelings in my work, and through self-portraiture I hope I’m able to portray how I feel when in the face of these landscapes.”
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Lizzy primarily uses photography as a creative outlet to document her life, thoughts, imagination and the awe-inspiring sensations felt when spending time in nature. She hopes her work can inspire others to also seek a deeper connection with nature and themselves, to find value in what’s vulnerable and to respect, love and take better care of the beautiful earth we call home.
Photography
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Gadd reveals the method that helped her most with teaching herself photography was her courageous 365-days challenge - where she forced herself to take photos every single day,
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Craftmanship
Aesthetics aside, Lockwood may soon have an answer to the eternal “left it on a train” heartbreak. Rumour has it they’re considering adding GPS devices. Get customising now at: www. lockwoodumbrellas.com.
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Lockwood Umbrella Quality that’s singing in the rain.
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ockwood umbrellas – the best umbrella manufacturers, are known the world over for their strength and durability and highest quality craftsmanship. Each umbrella is handmade in North London employing centuries old techniques, sourcing the finest cloth, ethically sourced buffalo horn and hardwoods from sustainable woodlands from around the globe. Built for durability using a Grade A steel frame, hand sewn reinforcements, lathe-turned brass fittings and proofed water resistant cloth. These elements, if cared for correctly, ensure that your Lockwood umbrella lasts a lifetime.
choosing from six different woods for the handle (oak, maple, hickory, hazel, ash or chestnut), eight shades for the waterproof cotton canopy, and five different fastening buttons. Select your height, and Lockwood will run you up a made-to-measure brolly for a flat fee of £280. Each umbrella arrives in a bag hand-printed with its owner’s name and details.
Newborn A newcomer in an achingly traditional industry, Lockwood was launched in 2014 by Moses Manley and Edward Gucewicz, who previously worked in the world-renowned James Smith & Sons umbrella shop on New Oxford Street. The boys get top marks for their superbly easy-to-use online bespoke service. Here, you can design your own umbrella
www.lockwood umbrellas.com
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Going Cript underground St Martin-In-The-Fields.
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he Café in the Crypt is, as the name suggests, a café in the crypt of St Martin in the Fields. One of Trafalgar Square’s best kept secrets (until we go and include it in this guide), the café has been serving up excellently priced for food for central London for the past 30 years. And it’s got atmosphere in bucket loads with the original brick-vaulted ceilings and historic tombstones lining the floor. It’s going to beat any Starbucks in the area, that’s for sure. Where: St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JH. Monday - Tuesday:10:00 - 20:00. Wednesday:10:00 - 22:30. Thursday - Saturday:10:00 - 21:00 Sunday:11:00 - 18:00 Website: www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org
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Cafe
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Food is freshly prepared on-site using ingredients from local and national sustainable sources wherever possible.
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