In the Shop with Ron

IT’s A WrAP

This month in the shop we’re going over a couple of projects we’ve done installing vinyl graphics. Before we go any further let me say in my opinion— all other considerations aside—I prefer custom paint. However, with the high cost of quality materials and labor cost being what they are, vinyl graphics sometimes can be a cost-effective/budget-friendly option. In some instances, it may be considered the best choice for the situation. You probably wouldn’t want to put a $3000 custom paint job on your ATV and then run it through the woods. On the other side of the coin, if you’re building an authentic ’60s-style bobber, you probably don’t want to put vinyl flames or tape pinstripes on the tank. There are two methods normally used to apply vinyl graphics: wet or dry. The wet method uses some form of a wetting solution on the adhesive side of the graphic and on the surface the graphic is being applied to. The dry method is just that: you apply the vinyl directly to the surface with no wetting solution. The surface the graphic is being applied to must be clean and free of any dirt, oil, or wax. Make sure there are no dirt specks or rough spots on the surface; also be careful not to get anything on the adhesive side of the graphic. Minor imperfections on the surface can be lightly sanded with 600-grit (or finer) sandpaper. Anything on the surface or the adhesive side of the graphic will be magnified once the graphic is applied. It could also cause air bubbles, poor adhesion, or tears in the vinyl. In most cases (unless otherwise instructed by the manufacturer), I like to use the wet method. It allows you to reposition if necessary and offers a little more margin for error. There are several different wetting solutions available. Some manufacturers are quite specific about what to use. I normally use a product made by Auto-Tech called Decal and Graphic Solution. I have had consistent success with this solution. I have also used one teaspoon of dish soap mixed with approximately one quart of water, anywhere from 10% to 50% isopropyl alcohol, also denatured alcohol mixed with water. I haven’t tried it myself but some guys use straight window cleaner. A couple of other tools I use are a fairly stiff two-sided plastic squeegee and a heat gun.

Let’s get started. Most graphics have a protective backing on the adhesive side. It’s best to position the graphic on the surface for fit and alignment purposes before removing the backing. Once you’re comfortable with the fit and alignment (using the wet method), carefully remove the backing and liberally apply the wetting solution to the adhesive side of the graphic and to the surface it is being applied to. Position the graphic on the surface and working from the center out to the edge with the squeegee, squeeze the wetting solution out past the edge of the graphic. Start gently at first—too much pressure can cause the graphic to move. If it does move and you need to reposition, carefully lift it away from the surface and apply a bit more wetting solution and repeat. Be careful not to stretch the vinyl, as it will cause fitment issues and may cause discoloration of the vinyl or distortion of any images or lettering. If you have to navigate compound curves or complex body lines or shapes, you can use a heat gun sparingly to help form the vinyl. Be extra careful when using heat, as it is very easy to discolor or distort the vinyl. Here is a before and after picture of a quad we did using the wet method. When using the dry method, the main difference is that you start from the edge and not the center and you only expose a small area of adhesive at a time. Use the squeegee gently and the heat sparingly. If possible, I like to have a spare pair of hands or two; it really helps. The last picture is a pair of doors we did for an ATV using the dry method (manufacturer’s recommendations).

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by Ron Johnson

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