www.iamhcmc.com
By Locals, for Locals - Your Monthly HCMC Gazette
4th Edition, February 2016
FEBRUARY Local Insight:
love
Romantic Venues for Valentine’s Day
P.5
Saigon’s Secret Love Hotels
Why You Should Stay Home on Valentine’s Day
P.6
P.8
Living in HCMC • News • Features • Meet the Expert • Meet the Saigonese Horojoke • Events • Quiz ‘n’ Win • Olive You • Reviews
THE WORLD’S MOST COMPREHENSIVE GATEWAY TO VIBRANT VIETNAM
published by
#iAMHCMC
living
#iAMHCMC
By Locals, For Locals
Editor-in-chief Patrick Gaveau
Lao Tzu once said, “Being deeply loved by someone gives you strength, while loving someone deeply gives you courage.” While preparing my #iAMHCMC editorial on love, I thought to focus on why it is so important to love yourself if you want to love another. While doing research, I was overwhelmed by the amount of statements made by inspired others. I pursued further, and compiled a list of my favorite quotes for this month’s editorial. Enjoy!
To provide an innovative and interesting English portal of local insight for HCMC’s working professionals. CORE VALUES »»
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Unity: We bring our readers together under the “Saigonese” identity
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Originality: Our work is elevated with unique illustration and design Have feedback? Contact me at patrick@innovo.vn
editor-in-chief Patrick Gaveau content manager Aleksandr Smechov coordinator Hannah Hayes Writers Keith Hancock Zoe Osborne Aleksander Smechov ILLUSTRator Zoe Osborne DesignerS Van Ta Hannah Hayes
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Love Yourself
living
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Best Live Music Venues in Saigon
Saigon Ranger
Maxim’s
Citypassguide.com looked at the top live music
backpackers and the odd Vietnamese for a night
venues in Ho Chi Minh City. Here is a preview
of good, honest fun.
of our in-depth review. We picked five from our
In 17th place: SAX ‘N’ ART
comprehensive list.
In 10th place: MAXIM’S Maxim’s Club has been a highlight of Saigon’s after-hours scene since it opened in 1925. It is a popular spot for Saigon’s socialites, and a live
As a city that never sleeps, Vietnam’s commercial centre and one of Southeast Asia’s top backpacker
If jazz is your weakness, if saxophones make you
music favourite where Vietnam’s middle class
hotspots, it’s no wonder that Ho Chi Minh City is
warm, if a room with red wine, good people and
dance the night away together in their glittering
home to such a large number of diverse music venues
cozy low lighting is your idea of a top evening,
heels. Open from 7 p.m., a variety of musical
and artsy people. There is no excuse for staying
then the Sax ‘n’ Art Jazz Club is definitely your
genres are featured from the sultry Tango to the
home here - Saigon has something for everyone.
kind of place. Come and tap your feet to the
Rumba. Downstairs, late night revelers whirl on
Sax ‘n’ Art band jamming with saxophonist Tran
the spacious dance floor, and upstairs the less
Manh Tuan. Hear a fusion of contemporary jazz
energetic of Maxim’s patrons relax in the Vintage
and traditional Vietnamese music, and get soulful
Lounge or the Fine Dining Restaurant. Sip one of
with the classics from the legendary Charlie
10 delicious cocktails, and let the evening unfold.
Honestly, no matter what your nighttime music scene is, Saigon surely has the answer. There are just so many great places to spend an evening in this city. We would like to recommend the following:
Parker to jazz icon Sonny Rollins.
In 19th place: THI BAR Thi Bar is not only conveniently located - slap
In 12th place: BLANCHY’S TASH
In 6th place: SAIGON RANGER Saigon Ranger stands out as a music venue, since
bang in the middle of Saigon’s tourist strip - but it
it not only serves delicious cocktails, drinks, coffee
also happens to house a quality cover band and a
Blanchy’s opened in 2011 and has DJs playing
crowd of friendly, chilled out staff. Although beer is
the best charting hits and all your favourite
offensively expensive compared to the VND10,000
dance classics, whilst the bar itself serves top-
beers on the street, it’s worth every zero for the
notch drinks. Blanchy’s works with local acts and
raucous good time you will find inside. The bar
international artists, from Grandmaster Flash
also has an excellent “buy two get one free” happy
and D Ramirez to Bob Sinclar and Sebastian
hour special for beer and cocktails from 6 p.m. to
Gamboa. With a global market in mind, this
9 p.m., which continues all night on Wednesdays.
stylish after-hours hub strives to cater to a more
To read the full piece go to:
Join the cheerful band and crowd of beery expats,
internationally integrated crowd.
iamhcmc.com/hcmc-music-venues.
and sodas, but also a variety of international dishes. Their musical menu is similarly extensive, with a variety of live bands playing each night. Whether you’re after a drink or a dinner, if you’re a fan of quality live entertainment come to Saigon Ranger for a full musical meal.
The most comprehensive guide to Ho Chi Minh City ever composed • 700+ questions answered • Expert advice on living, shopping, business & more • Local perspective on expats living in HCMC 42/37-38 Hoang Dieu, D4, HCMC • +84 (0) 838 254 316 • resident@citypassguide.com
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News
News Around Saigon
The following news items are provided by
Toxic Cheap Coffee
“Space Balls”
New Hawker Center
The safety of food and drinks in Vietnam has
Vietnamese authorities are inspecting three metal
Ho Chi Minh City has opened a new street food
once again been brought into question after
spheres found at three separate locations in the
market on Thu Khoa Huan Street, near Ben
local media discovered a new toxic, concentrated
northern provinces of Yen Bai and Tuyen Quang
Thanh Market, promising of tasty and safe food at
liquid on the market that could turn water into a
early January. The objects, weighing 250 grams,
reasonable prices. The venue, open from 10 a.m. to
mixture that looked and tasted like coffee. One
six kilos and 45 kilos, had reportedly fallen from
11 p.m. every day, offers many favorites, including
liter of the substance, allegedly made in China,
space after making thunder-like noises. Officials
the famous Saigon banh mi, and noodle soups.
cost VND380,000 and could make at least 400
from the Ministry of Defense said that they could
cups of “coffee,” allowing vendors to reap huge
have been made in Russia, and come from missiles
profits. While the exact health impacts have not
or spaceships. The ministry said space debris must
been confirmed, experts believe the liquid likely
be dealt with properly to avoid possibilities of
The Ministry of Transport has called on state-run
contains heavy metals such as lead and mercury.
crash accidents.
Vietnam Airlines to lower its fares to match a sharp
Airfare Cuts
decline in fuel costs. But the carrier, which posted a
Brangelina in Vietnam
staggering 129 percent increase in revenue last year, said its tickets are already affordable. Vietnam’s air
Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt spent three days in
market is forecast to grow 19 percent to 45 million
Hanoi and Ha Long Bay in late December. Local
passengers this year, riding on the back of strong
media did not catch wind of the visit until the
economic growth and lower fuel costs.
power couple had left. It was reportedly their fourth trip to Vietnam since 2006. In 2007, they adopted a Vietnamese child named Pax Thien.
Google’s Promises
Netflix and Chill? Internet TV service Netflix has expanded its
Beer-loving Nation
Google will help Vietnam train about 1,400
global reach to Vietnam along with another 189
information technology engineers and help local
countries around the world. Vietnamese people
Vietnam’s beer production grew 10 percent to 3.4
companies approach international markets
can watch unlimited movies and TV shows for
billion liters in 2015, according to a recent report
through e-commerce, the tech giant’s CEO Sundar
a monthly fee of VND180,000-260,000 (US$8-
by the Vietnam Beer Alcohol Beverage Association.
Pichai told Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung
12). Netflix is now live in more than 70 million
Sabeco, which makes the omnipresent Bia Saigon,
at a recent meeting in Hanoi. He said Vietnam
homes across the world.
continues to be the largest brewer, accounting for
will soon become one of his company’s most
44 percent of the total output. The industry also
important markets. Pichai also expressed his
reported that soft drink production rose to 4.8 billion
strong confidence in the potential of Vietnam’s
liters last year. It said local producers are now facing
Internet economy, saying it will easily be in the
Saigon Zoo, the world’s eighth oldest, celebrated
tough competition from Japanese and US brands.
top 10 markets for many companies.
its 150th birthday in December. Built in 1864 and
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Happy Birthday Saigon Zoo
News opened one year later, the zoo covers an area of 20
Road crashes accounted for 62 deaths, while one
hectares in the heart of District 1. It now hosts around
died in a boat crash and two rail incidents killed
4,000 trees of different species and more than 600
two, according to the National Traffic Safety
animals. The zoo remains one of the top attractions
Committee. In Vietnam, an average of 24 people
in the city, even though some visitors have questioned
are killed in traffic accidents every day, or one
the conditions that the animals are kept in.
every hour. The government hopes to reduce the annual death toll to 5,000 over the next five years.
Green Electric Taxis
Tourism Struggle
Mai Linh, Vietnam’s second largest taxi company,
Richest Vietnamese The chairman of real estate giant Vingroup, Pham Nhat Vuong, has been named the country’s richest man, with stock holdings surging 12 percent to nearly VND24.5 trillion at the end of 2015. Vuong, also on Forbes’ world billionaire list since 2013, has dominated the local stock market over the past five years. His wife Pham Thu Huong and sister-in-law Pham Thuy Hang, who are his
has struck a deal with French automaker Renault
Vietnam welcomed 7.94 million foreign visitors
to replace its fleet with electric cars over the next
in 2015, down 0.2 percent from 2014 and the
five years. It plans to introduce the first 30 cars in
first annual decline since 2009, according to the
Hanoi this year, before launching more in HCMC
General Statistics Office. The country lost up to
and the central city of Da Nang. The company
44 percent of visitors from some of its key Asian
says it will spend around 500 million euros, or
markets, notably China. Meanwhile, its recent
over US$544 million, on a fleet of 10,000-20,000
visa waiver policy for European citizens failed
electric cars. It expects the new vehicles to help
to generate a boom: arrivals from Europe went
it lower rates to VND8,000 per kilometer from
up only 7 percent to over 1.3 million.
deputies at Vingroup, are in the top five. The benchmark VN-Index rose 6.1 percent last year.
Motorbike Boom Ho Chi Minh City, which is home to around 8 million people, now has 8.5 million motorbikes, the highest in the country, according to new data from the transport department. Of the total figure,
VND12,000 at the moment.
Rising Unemployment
#iAMHCMC
Retail Invasion E-mart, the discount store chain operated by
Recent data released by the labor ministry showed
South Korea’s Shinsegae Corporation, has opened
225,000 people with a bachelor’s or master’s
its first store in HCMC. The US$60-million store
degree were without a job at the end of 2015, an
covers more than three hectares in the northeastern
increase of 13.3 percent from the previous quarter.
district of Go Vap. E-mart, which is looking to get
That accounted for one fifth of the country’s
a license for its second store also in the city, plans
unemployed workforce. The ministry’s officials
to open 10 stores in Vietnam by 2020.
7.43 million are registered in the city. The rest, more than 1 million, have been brought in by migrants from other places. In an attempt to tackle worsening congestion, the transport ministry has recently given the country’s two largest cities more autonomy, including introducing their own restrictions on personal vehicles.
had different theories. Some said Vietnam may have more degree holders than it needs. Others
Car Influx
believed the quality of university graduates may have not met the requirements of employers.
Auto sales jumped nearly 60 percent to 250,000 units in 2015, the fastest growth in Southeast
New Year Deaths
Asia. The strong growth was thanks to easier and cheaper loans, industry insiders said. More
Vietnam reported 124 traffic accidents which killed
than half of the cars were imported, worth nearly
65 people during the three-day New Year weekend.
US$2.96 billion.
Photo: Ngoc Thang
The New Citypassguide.com On the 13th of January, after months of work,
The standard of photography on the new site
Come and take a look and let us have your
our new website was finally launched. The new
is exceptional and the new format lends itself
feedback. We would love to hear from you.
Citypassguide.com is split into two main sections,
well to showcasing this vibrant country to the
Feedback can be sent to: aleksandr@innovo.vn.
Travel and Living. This negates the need for users
best of our abilities. Citypassguide.com is proud
to have to wade through information that is not
to represent Vietnam and pleased that the new
relevant to them, and drives them straight to
website furthers this aim.
whatever is pertinent to their needs.
Each of the country’s cities has its own section
Citypassguide.com has had 1.43 million unique
and these are subdivided into useful and easy to
visitors since 2013, 1.62 million page views in the
understand sub-sections. This enables the end user
first nine months of 2015 and over 300 articles
to navigate simply, finding whatever they want,
published last year. The new website will focus
be it where to find a pharmacy in Ho Chi Minh
on creating the richest experience possible for
City, what hotel to book in Nha Trang, or which
our global visitors.
attractions to visit in Hanoi.
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features
Romantic Venues for Valentine’s Day by zoe osborne
La Villa 14 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2 Mon - Sat, Lunch 11:45 a.m. - 4 p.m., Dinner 6:30 p.m. - late, Valentine’s Dinner on Sunday 14th (book in advance)
La Fenetre Soleil
Photo: wagamamatravel.com
Romance is a given on Valentine’s Day - the question is, what will that look like this year?
lend a layer of romance to the establishment’s undeniable class. With a vast range of imported wines, spirits and premium beers, and a selection of unique house cocktails you and your Valentine
There are so many options. It all depends on what
will be spoiled for choice here.
you and your valentine personally prefer, but just to make the selection easier we thought we’d give you
Seated as you are in the front hall of one of Saigon’s most exquisite villas, nestled under the arc of the house staircase or next to a wide window, it’s hard not to feel romantic when you dine at La Villa. Sit down with your Valentine and celebrate together over a table of La Villa’s authentic Michelin-quality French cuisine, with crisp bread baked on site and one of the biggest cheese selections we’ve ever seen in Vietnam. Not to mention the huge wine “book”
a nice cut of our seven favourite Saigon venues and
R&J Italian Lounge
a little taste of what they offer. For more romantic
& Restaurant
venues, see the dating section in our Ho Chi Minh
The Reverie Saigon, 22-36 Nguyen Hue, D1
Sorae
City Resident Guide Book.
Restaurant 6 p.m. - 10 p.m., Lounge 5 p.m. - 12 a.m.
AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 | Lunch 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.,
featuring 230 wines.
Dinner & Lounge 5:30 p.m. - 1 a.m.
The 1985 Café
Situated in The Reverie Saigon, one of the most
223/2K Pham Viet Chanh, D1
luxurious hotels in the city, R&J (which stands
With an exciting number of different seating options
Mon - Sun, 9 a.m. - 10 p.m.
for Romeo and Juliet) features gorgeous displays
and areas, Sorae is a very suave and beautiful place
of wall-to-wall mosaics, comfortable plush seating,
to make yourself at home with your Valentine
As its name suggests, the 1985 cafe is a haven of
and an intimate ambiance that is only excelled
and indulge in the finest of Japanese cuisine. The
vintage charm, nestled between workshops among
by the authentic Italian food. The nearby lounge
establishment is lit with a warm, gold glow from
Saigon’s usual clamour. The space is small and
opens a bit earlier and is a great place to enjoy a
countless candles and subtle wall insets, creating
intimate with cute, flowery decor, books to read
drink with your partner before settling for dinner.
the perfect ambience for intimacy. Sorae serves both
and many cosy corners to hide in. Serving fragrant
lunch and dinner, with a plush lounge area and bar
tea in glass pots, delicious coffees and a range of
Shri Restaurant & Lounge
special Valentine’s Day cakes and sweets, the 1985
Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3
cafe is an ideal place to escape for something sweet
Mon - Sat, 10:30 a.m. - 12 a.m.,
La Fenetre Soleil
with that special someone this February.
Sun, 4:30 p.m. - 12 a.m.
44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | 10 a.m. - 12 a.m.
2 Lam Son
Shri is one of our favourite dinner and drinks
If you and your valentine are attracted to things
Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1
venues, and now includes a new tapas menu from
bohemian, the gorgeous La Fenetre Soleil is your
Mon - Sun, 5pm - late
Spanish Executive Chef Javier Gomez. Promoting
perfect setting. Go for a mid-morning coffee amidst
themselves as an “informal” space to unwind and
swathes of flowing cotton, or a late-night soiree
2 Lam Son is the premier space for high-quality
relax, Shri Restaurant & Lounge pairs delicious
over a bottle of rich, deep red, and enjoy the ancient
drinks in one of Saigon’s most prestigious hotel bars.
dishes from a range of cuisines and the best of
wood and elaborate furnishings of this unique
The bar offers a number of different seating areas,
international wines, with the quiet and calm of a
venue. Romance seems to float in the very air of
from intimate private booths to a loft with views
rooftop refuge. We recommend making the best
this place, and as you sit daringly close together to
across sparkling Ho Chi Minh City, and its rich
of their extensive wine list of over 300 bottles, or
watch the house band play its lilting jazz, it’s hard
dark wooden furnishings and golden-red lighting
dabbling in one of their excellent craft cocktails.
not to feel a spark of something.
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for a sparkling cocktail or a glass of something cool.
features
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Saigon’s Secret Love Hotels by keith hancock Vietnamese lovers have a problem. Convention dictates that public shows of real affection are taboo. We’re not talking about doing the “thing” here, merely kissing and cuddling is frowned
can be rented by the hour and have become a
Sex it seems is still the big taboo here. Everyone
upon by one of the most conservative societies on
regular haunt for young couples, cheating partners,
does it, nobody admits it and nobody talks about
earth. So young lovers are forced into standing
married couples in search of some privacy and
it. Vietnamese society is incredibly conservative and
on the Thu Tiem Bridge gazing at the night city
Saigon’s famous “butterfly girls” with their clients.
seemingly naive, but take a look at the sex chat
skyline or congregating on Mai Chi Tho to sit on a motorbike and fly a kite. There is an innocence about Vietnamese society that is actually quite charming. Young couples actually enjoy the simply things in life, in a way that is lost to most in the West.
“The charming innocence is really endearing” But surely young lovers have needs and urges the same as anyone else. Well, this is where the Nha Nghi, or “Love Hotels”, come in. To the initiated this remains a hidden part of Saigon life. Whether you know it or not, the chances are you drive past love hotels every single day. These pleasure palaces
A great strength of Vietnamese life is the strong family bond. However when you are sharing a small house or even a single room with mum and dad, amorous advances don’t, well, advance very far to be honest. “We’re close, but not that close!” So when the birds and the bees start to get restless, it’s time
sites and you get a real sense of where Saigon is. Online, everyone appears to be at it.
“A guy could come to town for a haircut... and find himself involved in a whole different ball game.”
to pop down to the Nha Nghi and take advantage
So just where do the love hotels fit in on Valentine’s
of the opening rate, which is between VND60,000
Day? Well, each year, they report great business
and VND100,000 for the first three hours.
with many saying that they get fully booked on
“When the birds and the bees start to get restless, it’s time to pop down to the Nha Nghi”
February 14th. Some have three hour slots booked right through the afternoon, evening and night. My, if the walls could talk. Maybe that’s why they call it a headboard!
There is one street in District 7 that has about a dozen of these establishments. It really is quite a sight in the early morning as children stroll past on their way to their local international school and at the same time, dozens of young couples emerge looking bleary eyed and rather pleased with themselves. Each couple discreetly jumps onto two different motorbikes and heads off back to their normal lives. As with everything there is a certain ambiguity about it all. The term Nha Nghi simply means guest house and there are many of these all over the city that are nothing more than that. The love hotels are normally spotted by the signs outside advertising the rates. If the prices are by the hour then there is every chance that the stair carpets will be more worn that most. It’s the same with the infamous Hot Tocs in Saigon. Hot Toc merely means a hairdresser, though some are more blow job than blow dry. A guy could come to town for a
There is a riskier side to this risqué business. Some partners, finding out about infidelities, have been known to have done deals in the past with hotel owners. They installed cameras and caught their loved ones loving other lovers. The resulting grainy videos hit the social media sites and caused quite a stir.
haircut and a room for the night, and find himself
However, Saigon’s infamous love hotels show no
involved in a whole different ball game.
sign of losing their appeal anytime soon.
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features
I Guess We Grew Up Different by zoe osborne & David Perry When you are dating or married to someone from another culture, it is inevitable
Perry and I both know this very well! So we put our heads together to come
that your habits will butt heads at some point. But over time you learn to
up with a few examples. See more of David’s comics at vwwhc.blogspot.com,
accept these clashes, and though they can sometimes be unfortunate they are
or purchase his hilarious book, The Vietnamese Wife, Western Husband Club:
often hilarious. As veterans of the Vietnamese-Western relationship, David
A Romantic Cartoon (Kindle and print) on Amazon.com.
The Question of “Free Stuff” Let’s say you and your partner go out and try a new high-rated restaurant, and
my boyfriend Nguyen and I this applies mainly to tissues and lemons. If we go
next to that incredible “something” is a whole load of free stuff. For David
out to eat, the meal is improved tenfold with the presence of free face wipes
and his wife Jenny, this is best explained with napkins and condiments, but for
and lemon quarters, and we invariably return home with our pockets stuffed.
The Question of Meds Got a headache? Ok, take something that is tried and tested to cure pain in
never heard of. It seems illogical to distrust an internationally recognized
your temples, has a well-known brand name and comes in one simple little
pill of choice and opt for a bag of random chemicals, but to Nguyen it is
pill. Foolproof. Or… visit your local dusty drug house for something you’ve
always safer to stick with what he knows. Fair enough right?
At the end of the day our culture clashes play a big part in binding with
stranger in a strange country. Back in New York, it can be less funny for
my boyfriend, and it’s the same for David and his wife. I think it’s cute
David, especially as his partner’s cultural idiosyncrasies affect his friends,
when my partner does something totally illogical, and for me, the key is
family, home - his entire world. So for therapy, he makes cartoons and
to laugh at how weirdly different we are. But it’s easier for me, as I’m the
laughs it off with others.
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features
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Why You Should Stay Home on Valentine’s Day by Aleksandr Smechov Either you’re alone or you and your partner just
amounts of human beings in single centralised
don’t want the hassle of overbooked venues, stuffed
locations, sometimes you and your partner want to
bridges and crowded parks - there are several good
forget about everyone else but each other. A picnic
reasons you may want to shut yourself indoors this
in the park suddenly gets less special when there are
upcoming Valentine’s Day weekend and celebrate
several dozen teenage couples around you timidly
in your own special way.
holding hands and eating their confections. Stay in your own private bubble this Valentine’s Day.
1. Ice Cream and Movies are Better in Bed
3. You Only Love Yourself
There’s nothing like cuddling up with your partner,
As our editorial this month professes, it’s only
putting on a good movie and slowly gobbling a
when you love yourself that you can truly love
bucket of ice cream. Or, if you’re alone, getting
others. While it may not be healthy to take this
the bed, tissues and ice cream all to yourself.
to narcissistic extremes, on a day when society
If you and your partner are both overworked,
pressures you to find someone and give them all
exhausted and in need of some serious R&R,
your attention, it might be liberating to wave off
the stress of restaurant reservations, overhyped
the romanticism and just enjoy a ME day, working
expectations and pricey chocolates may just
on projects, reading, getting together for a house
put you both over the edge. Ease that edge off
party with other singles, or just lazing off.
with gobs of sugar and romantic comedies. And if you’re on your lonesome, be sure to avoid getting those sugary stains on your bed sheets!
4. You Don’t Live With Your Parents
A night in with the one you love Photo: Shutterstock
kids are having a field day with granny, then celebrating your independance starts to sound like a much better idea.
5. You Find the Commercialism Unbearable
Whether you’re tethered to someone or on the prowl, the pressure and commercialism of Valentine’s Day can sometimes destroy the
The fact is, most younger couples both live with
spontaneity and excitement of love (or simply
their parents, or at least one partner is constrained
enjoying a day to yourself). As an act of private
in a family household. When that’s the case, going
rebellion, stay indoors and celebrate without
out seems inevitable. And if you both live in a
anyone stuffing cupids and hearts down your
house, you may have the kids to take care of -
throat. Get some food delivered, let loose and
Some work well with crowds. Others find them
ideally, in that case, you want to hire a sitter and
enjoy the fact that a holiday doesn’t have to
repelling. Whatever your perspective is on massive
book something nice. But if you’re alone, or your
dictate how to love yourself or your other.
2. Large Crowds Turns You Off
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people
Meet the Expert Giovanni Parrella on Italian Food
The Reverie Saigon | 22-36 Nguyen Hue, D1 | thereveriesaigon.com | +84 (0)8 3823 6688
by Patrick gaveau Napoli-born chef Giovanni Parrella has worked
apple compote, foie gras and balsamic vinegar. This
because it is sweet. Sweetness is added for special
for 14 years with the Hyatt Group in some of the
is followed by a seafood soup.
sweet occasions.
I think keeping things relatively simple is the key.
6. What do you like to prepare for your wife on
The next course is Tortelli, made with Burrata
romantic occasions?
cheese, which we import. We are only able to
If you are not a great cook, it can be simple if you
import 500 cheeses per month; this is the capacity
do as I do with my own wife. When I want to make
of the small family firm that produce it. This is a
her happy, I always go with cheese and red wine
superb product. It is also light, we don’t want our
with nuts, honey and dried fruit.
world’s most interesting food cultures. In Istanbul, Mumbai and Beijing. His strong spirited father, who then owned a large construction company with 300 staff, had planned for his son Giovanni to take over. Back in those days, especially in the south of Italy, a child rarely went against the elder’s will. With courage and conviction, Giovanni thought otherwise and began working in the kitchen of a
guests on Valentine’s Day to be so full that after they just want to go to sleep... the night is young.
Napoli restaurant. He began work 6 a.m. every day at age 12, and he has been in the industry ever since. For the last four years, he has been Executive Chef
his reputation as a man for love, food and passion. The Reverie has four Italian, one French, thee from Hong Kong and three from mainland China, and several Vietnamese chefs. Their ethos are to always
[. . . long pause . . .] food is more important, you
and ginger. This is so tasty, as well as being a
cannot live without it, and besides I can eat three
good aphrodisiac.
times every day, nobody gets that much sex! But
Finally of course, the king of love is chocolate. We have Valrhona Chocolate, very high quality. We present a chocolate fondue, a simple expression of love shared. With strawberries and other fresh fruit, accompanied by heart shaped cookies. 3. What are the key elements of a successful
things is to let the customers feel what we feel,”
Valentine’s Dinner?
Giovanni says.
As I said earlier, the whole ambience is the key. The
celebrate Valentine’s Day ? We have three venues where customers can celebrate Valentine’s Day with their partners. One
table set up is so important, to express your love for your partner. Choose good music also. At The Reverie we make the table very romantic and also provide a gift for your lovely girl.
My grandfather use to say, make sure your spouse knows how to cook. When I asked why he said, “The love will pass, the hunger will stay.” Of course he was joking, he was so proud of his wife. But
shone through. 8. Does your spouse’s skill in the kitchen affect the love in the relationship? For me yes it definitely does. My wife has been brought up in the old fashioned ways, from eight years of age she brought up her sisters. She is a chef also, she makes homemade breads, eggplant
is the R&J Italian Lounge & Restaurant, the other
4. Why is food and love often so closely associated?
is The Royal Pavillion and the last is Café Cardinal.
Why is food a symbol of love?
Café Cardinal is our French Restaurant on the
It comes from our parents, particularly our
sixth floor, it offers comfort food by day. In the
mothers. The first food we have is breast milk,
evening it’s a fine dining restaurant. The Royal
no more loving food could ever exist. It is about
Pavillion is our Chinese restaurant. But of course,
family. Family meals should always be together. A
I am Italian and so I would like to talk more about
symbol of love can be anything. In my own family
R&J Restaurant. This of course is all about Romeo
we never eat outside the family dinner table until
and Juliet. A love story that oozes passion, fire and
I was past 16 years old! Meaning I never got out
love. The restaurant is lit by candlelight. The food
in the evening with friends until then because food
is superb, but for this Valentine’s Day it is about
was on the table at home.
much more than that. It is about the table setting,
the relationship between the two is always there.
the love and humour of their relationship always
be there for their customers. “The most important
1. What venue at The Reverie is best suited to
[. . . long pause . . .] I think it’s a difficult question
The main course is beef, served with rocket salad
of one the city’s most luxurious 5 star hotels - The Reverie Saigon. As an Italian man, he lives up to
7. What’s better, food or sex?
Parmigiana... wow! She is the best. For us it runs in the family. I remember on Sundays as a boy, when we visited my grandmother. She used to cook so well, from 500 metres away we could smell the wood fire, the homemade bread and the beef ragout that had been cooking for maybe 6-12 hours. 9. What spices are aphrodisiacs? Chilli and star anise, cinnamon and vanilla are reputedly aphrodisiacs. 10. What wine/food pairings are the most romantic?
5. What are the best dishes for couples to share/
For Vietnamese, bubbles and love are always
eat together?
together. They always want Champagne, whereas we
I will come back to chocolate again, using it in
traditionally think of Champagne for a celebration.
2. What special menu do you envisage for
a pot as with fondue is a great symbol of shared
However, for love, I would personally go for a nice
Valentine’s Day?
love. It’s all about the sensual textures as well as
Amarone della Valpolicella. Normally just known
Our special Valentine’s menu is intimate and
the flavours. Symbolic foods are asparagus, caviar,
as Amarone, it’s a beautiful sensual rich Italian dry
romantic. We have Japanese scallops, served with
chocolate or cocoa in general. For me it is chocolate,
red wine, in my opinion truly a beautiful red wine.
the lighting and the music, the whole ambience is of love.
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people
#iAMHCMC
Meet the Saigonese Roger Ferrell
by keith hancock
kidsfirstenterprise.org | rogerf@seanet.com | +84 (0)9 0336 5720 Roger Ferrell is the President of Kid’s First Enterprise,
street food vendors in the city. It’s a great way to
a social enterprise company that donates all profits
find the good ones. took me by surprise. I was at a bus stop, with my
to support disadvantaged children, focusing on kids with disabilities and those suffering from cancer. They run two large events each year in HCMC
As we approach Tet, what are you wishes for the New Year?
briefcase containing my laptop. It was gone before I even knew what was happening.
and use the money to buy wheelchairs. They buy in excess of 100 wheelchairs annually. The next
I think my wish for the new year is to continue
event is The Bourbon Street Jazz Festival, on the
supporting the children that we do. I hope our
last Saturday in May at Cargo in District 4.
business continues to be successful enough to
What is one thing about life in Saigon that pisses you off the most?
support more disadvantaged people in Vietnam.
Can you suggest a hidden gem or little known Saigon attraction?
I would have to say that business banking is the
What’s the weirdest thing that’s happened to you in Vietnam?
biggest pain in the ass, in my life. I worked in banking in the States and it is seriously bad here. It should not take 15 minutes to make a simple withdrawal. Another thing is that I shouldn’t have
I think that most of the venues are pretty well known these days, but really I like the idea of Street
I was robbed by two motorbike bandits and it
to be scared for my life on a footpath because of
Foodie Saigon. They organise tours around various
happened with such efficiency that it completely
the motorbikes.
Horojoke Aquarius Jan 20 - Feb 18
Don’t take yourself too seriously Leo July 23 - Aug 22
Love is in the air and it’s time to take a chance...
In the words of that famous song “In the jungle,
maybe the best move is to dive right in. Don’t be
the mighty jungle, the lion sleeps tonight”… but
scared of getting wet!
not if the wine and chocolates works he won’t!
Pisces Feb 19 - Mar 20
Virgo Aug 23 - Sept 22
Ladies, is your man a romantic sort or a miserable
Ah! It’s that special time of year again, Valentine’s
old trout? Gents, is your woman a sweetie or a
day for all those lovely Virgos out there, take her
fish-faced witch? This is the month to find out.
out, order that cocktail, be careful with that cherry!
Aries Mar 21 - Apr 19
Libra Sept 23 - Oct 23
Candlelight and flowers - don’t fall for all that
Those scales are all about balance, try to get more
romance stuff ladies! This is the ram we are
balance in your love life, and we’re not talking
talking about here.
about trying it stood up in a hammock.
Taurus Apr 20 - May 20
Scorpio Oct 24 - Nov 22
Love is in the air, but is Valentine’s Day the time
Scorpios never need an excuse for romancing,
to feel horny or is it all a load of bull? Hopefully
just be careful of this little fellow, using that sting
you’ll get to find out.
can be addictive.
Gemini May 21 - June 21
Sagittarius Nov 23 - Dec 21
Great things come in twos. This could be the night
Sagittarius men are not known for expressing
of all nights. A chance to find out what those
feelings, whilst Sagittarius women like their
twins can really do.
freedom. Maybe it’s time to unleash them both.
Cancer June 22 - July 22
Capricorn Dec 22 - Jan 19
Take your partner to a beautiful restaurant, buy
These guys take love seriously, which is a hard
flowers and light the candles. Play your cards
thing to do. Add some humour but always
right and crab might be on the menu.
remember where they are coming from.
BREAK BREAD, SHARE COFFEE, FEED YOUR SOUL Klasik Coffee Roasters www.klasik.coffee 40-42 Mac Thi Buoi, D1, HCMC
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hotchpotch
Olive You by zoe osborne
It was an emotional wedding. Even the cake was
“Before marriage, a man will lie awake all night
in tiers.
thinking about something you say. After marriage,
Two antennae met on a roof, fell in love and got
Quiz’n’Win Test your Love knowledge and stand a chance to win our HCMC Resident Guide and a bottle of Colombelle red from Enter your answers at iamhcmc.com/quiz
he will fall asleep before you finish”
married. Their wedding ceremony wasn’t fancy.
“What do you say to your single friends on
The reception, however, was excellent.
Valentine’s Day? Happy Independence Day!”
1. The euphoria associated with new love is chemically similar to what mental illness? a) OCD
b) Schizophrenia
c) Bipolar
2. According to research, after how many months So exactly how long have you been married, sir?
is a couple most likely to break up? We’d like a quiet table where we can squabble.
a) 3-5 months
b) 2 months
c) 12 months
3. Who started the tradition of a diamond engagement ring? a) Lord William Gaza of New Zealand in 1882 b) Archduke Maximilian of Austria in 1500 c) King Edward the Eighth of England in 1937 4. According to research, a man’s beard grows fastest when... a) He is hungry b) He anticipates sex c) He has higher levels of progesterone in his body 5. Which Mexican chief famously considered chocolate a “love drug”? a) Montezuma
b) Wanalulu
c) Narrambera 6. According to psychologists, how long does it take to determine if you like someone? a) 30 seconds b) 1 to 2 minutes c) A tenth of a second 7. What hormone is known both as a natural painkiller and a cause of long-term bonding? a) Oestrogen
b) Saliva
c) Oxytocin
8. Do Bonobos, the most intelligent of primates, kiss with their tongues? a) No, of course not - they’re monkeys b) No, but science widely accept that they do c) Yes, unlike other monkey species 9. Complete the quote: “Don’t waste your love on somebody, who…” a) “has no time for it” Lord Byron, 1887, Love and Death b) “doesn’t give a S#**” Hugh Grant, 2003, Love, Actually c) “doesn’t value it” Shakespeare, 1596, Romeo and Juliet 10. Which global power celebrates Bachelors’ Day? a) Russia
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b) China
c) America
hotchpotch
Events
#iAMHCMC
Our selections of events in HCMC this month
Tet Specials at New World Hotel
Disney on Ice: Magical Ice Festival
VALENTINE’S DAY ROMANTIC DINNER
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 1 - 21 February
Phu Tho Indoor Stadium, 1 Lu Gia, D11 24 - 28 February
Celebrate at New World Saigon Hotel with delicious
Kids will love all the main characters from
Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers 88 Dong Khoi Street, D1 14 February | 6 p.m. - 10 p.m.
dining to welcome the Lunar New Year. From 7 to
Disney’s Frozen, as they help the sisters along the
11 February 2016, Parkview is serving up lunch and
way in a story full of action, adventure and magic.
dinner buffets featuring the best of Vietnamese Tet
The Little Mermaid presents a show stopping
dishes. Lunch buffet is VND680,000 per person and
performance by Sebastian as he breaks out of
dinner buffet is VND980,000. Meanwhile Dynasty
his shell to make waves with Ariel “Under The
kicks off the first day of Tet (8 February) with an
Sea!” Get tangled up with a chorus of harmless
exquisite Tet Brunch Buffet for VND1,088,000 per
hooligans when they get a visit from the sassy and
person, a Tet Dim Sum Buffet for VND450,000 (9 to
spirited Rapunzel and her charming ally Flynn
21 February), and finally a Tet Holiday Reunion set
from Disney’s Tangled. And get swept away by
menu for groups of 10 or more (VND6,800,000 per
Disney’s Beauty and the Beast as the Beast and
group, 1 to 21 February). Phone: +84 8 3822 8888.
his castle’s enchanted entourage take center stage
Celebrate Valentine’s Day with the special person in your life with a range of romantic options that promise an unforgettable experience. Savour chocolate dipped strawberries and premium champagne at The Lounge, prior to your candlelit dinner. Upstairs at Level 23, enjoy spectacular views and live jazz entertainment as you dine on our six course menu, which features oyster shooters, lobster and salmon carpaccio, grilled Wagyu beef and more. The Level 23 set menu is VND1,900,000++ per person.
in a spectacular show for Belle.
Saigon Café at Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers
Phone: +84 9 1333 2198.
offers an extensive buffet for Valentine’s Day,
PASSERS BY at Vin Gallery
with plenty of choices including an appealing
22 January - 29 February 2016 | 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. 6 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Ward, D2
salad bar, live cooking stations with Japanese
Passers By is a solo exhibition of new watercolour paintings by renowned Vietnamese artist Ho Hung. Hung’s work captures the subtle spontaneity of everyday life. He uses mottled light, warm colours and empty spaces to characterise his style and his view of the landscape of his homeland, Southern Vietnam. Hung’s paintings reflect his views of Old Saigon and its weather beaten buildings remind us that everything is temporary and life itself is just passing by.
SWEET STAY, SWEET VALENTINE 1 - 15 February Eastin Grand Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District
delicacies, premium beef, fresh seafood and mouthwatering desserts. The buffet is priced at VND1,500,000++ per person. Every lady guest
Eastin Grand Hotel welcomes you to take your
at Level 23 and Saigon Café receives a special
sweetheart for a romantic night out. Start the
treat this day! Phone: +84 8 3827 2828.
evening with a decadent Grand Buffet Dinner (not inclusive) for two with wine and sweets, followed by a night in one of the luxurious rooms. You’ll enjoy upscale spa products and a superb bed. In the morning, you’ll have a lovely breakfast for two. Turn this Valentine’s Day into a truly memorable experience. From VND1,800,000++,
CONQUER THE BRIDGE 24 January | from 5 A.M. to 9 P.M. Start: Crescent Plaza, Phu My Hung, D7
HCMC Run 2016 proudly invites you to the forthcoming running challenge with continuous support from the Athletics Federation of Ho Chi
inclusive of a complimentary bottle of sparkling wine or 25% off the Grand Buffet Dinner. Online promotional code: SSSV. Phone: +84 8 3844 9222. Also available at the Eastin: win your sweetheart over instantly with brunch at VND399,000++ per person.
Minh City. This is never just about reaching the finish line but also about the vibes, the excitement and the beautiful scenery along the way. With the route around Crescent Lake and Phu My Bridge, get ready to enjoy the beautiful views of the new urban development of Phu My Hung. Information: hcmcrun.com.
ROMANTIC VALENTINE’S DAY 14 February 2016 | 6 p.m. - 10 p.m. InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Le Duan and Hai Ba Trung, D1
There are two exciting Valentine’s Day events happening at InterContinental Asiana Saigon. At the Hotel, Market 39 restaurant will hold
LUNAR NEW YEAR GALA 7 February 2016 | 7:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. Hotel Majestic, 1 Dong Khoi, D1
a delicious buffet dinner. This starts from VND1,688,000++ per person and includes free flow of champagne, wine, beer and soft drinks.
Hotel Majestic brings you a superb Lunar New
Meanwhile next door at the Residences, the Italian
Year Gala for families with huge appetites. This
trattoria Basilico presents a specially created
will be the perfect place for your reunion dinner.
Romantic Set Menu at only VND1,488,000++
With a special buffet menu this year this reunion
per person and VND2,800,000++ per couple, and
dinner will be more than enough to satisfy your
includes two complimentary glasses of Bollinger
need for a big feast. VND1,999,000 per adult and
Rose champagne, free flow of beer or house wine,
VND999,000 per child. Free ticket per group of 10.
and soft drinks. Phone: +84 8 3520 9999.
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review
Feel the Love at these Romantic Getaways
An Lam River Saigon
by Keith hancock Everyone looks for that perfect romantic setting
the wild. An excellent place to stay is the Ta Lai
Ho Tram
for Valentine’s Day. Many prefer to stay local
Longhouse, an ecolodge and retreat that is one of
Huoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria Vung Tau
and find a good restaurant or simply go for a
the most restful places imaginable. How romantic
+84 6 4378 8888 | info@thegrandhotram.com
loving stroll in one of the city’s parks. However,
is getting at one with nature in an idyllic setting?
what if you fancy getting out of the smog and
The Ho Tram Strip Resort and Casino is to be
clogged up streets of Saigon and heading off on
Bassac Cruises
found about 80km to the east of Ho Chi Minh
a romantic getaway somewhere? Where are those
144 Hai Ba Trung, Tan An, Ninh Kieu, Can Tho
City. This modern, amazing 5 star resort has
places that say “I love you”, better than the rest?
+84 71 0382 9540 | bassac@transmekong.com
everything and more that you could ask for. The
I took a look at some of the great romantic spots that Vietnam has to offer.
rooms are of superb quality, there is a top class The Bassac River is a distributary of both the
casino for those who want to live the high life,
Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers. This delightful
and ten F&B outlets offering delicious and diverse
Cat Tien National Park
river flows through the wonderful scenery that
cuisine. Great beaches and poolside areas offer the
Cat Tien District, Lam Dong Province
forms the Mekong Delta. Any way of viewing
perfect chill out space and if golf is your thing,
+84 6 1366 9228 | cattien_nationalpark@yahoo.com
this amazing natural Vietnam attraction is
The Bluffs 18 hole championship golf course is
worthwhile; seeing it in a superb Bassac Cruise
one of the best in Vietnam.
If your loved one loves nature they’ll love Cat Tien
Boat is exceptional. The company has three
National Park. Just 155km northeast of Ho Chi
traditional styled wooden cruise ships. These are
Minh City it is 720 square kilometres of mainly
five star floating hotels in which to watch some
lowland tropical forestry. It was expanded in 1998
of the world’s most amazing scenery as it slips
upon the discovery of Vietnamese Javan Rhinos,
by your cabin window.
in order to give them protected breeding grounds. In addition to these animals, Asian elephants,
An Lam Saigon River
sun bears and the huge gaur can still be found in
21/4 Trung Street, Vinh Phu, Thuan An, Binh Duong
How to Get There: Cat Tien National Park is situated 155km to the northeast of HCMC. The bus from HCMC to Dalat, goes past the park on the Highway and will drop you off. From here motorbike taxis wait to take passengers to the entrance.
+84 65 0378 5555 | rsvn.sr@anlam.com Bassac Cruises begin their journey from Can This superb retreat is a real romantic getaway in every sense of the word. An Lam Saigon River
An Lam Saigon River is a Getaway without
It is situated just outside the Ho Chi Minh City
getting away. It is only 13 km from downtown
borders, but feels a million miles away. There are
HCMC and a relatively easy taxi journey.
gardens. Loving couples get to stay in gorgeous, expertly-designed venues, with excellent facilities,
13 | subscribe at iamhcmc.com/gazette
journey takes about two and a half hours.
is a totally enrapturing lifestyle boutique hotel.
nineteen luxurious villas set in delightful tropical
The Grand Ho Tram Strip Resort & Casino
Tho. Buses run daily from HCMC and the
situated right by the tranquil Saigon River. It’s easy to lose yourself in this truly one-of-a-kind escape.
Ho Tram Strip Resort and Casino have their own free bus running from their D1 office on Nguyen Van Thu. The 45 seat luxury coach runs three times per day in each direction.
review
#iAMHCMC
Napoli’s Pizza 284-286 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | napolisvietnam.com | +84 (0)8 3824 8083 Teriyaki Pizza Like most of their pizzas, the teriyaki pizza infuses Japanese elements with classic Italian ingredients. The pizza, despite being cooked for only about a minute or two, turns out tasty, especially while fresh and hot. The speed of the serving is achieved by a special Napoli-built oven designed to produce quality pizza at a fast rate. Additionally, there is seaweed, teriyaki sauce and corn on the pie. It’s filling enough to be shared by two people. Mixed Berry Smoothie The mixed berry smoothie is sweet as candy, with whipped cream and cherry sauce making up a good portion of the drink. Fans of sweet drinks will love it. If you want to downplay the sugar, we suggest the following drink… Green Tea Latte Imported matcha, local coffee and Japanese green Napoli Pizza
tea are served in a large cup that lasts the entire meal. Not overly sweet, this latte is great during lunch.
by aleksandr smechov With a prolific record of 68 shops opened in Japan
prompt throughout the day. English is fine, and
in the last four years, Napoli pizza has made a
the service staff brings you your pizza in minutes.
name for itself with fast, tasty Italian pizza and great prices. The chain’s first store opened on Ly Tu Trong, near New World Hotel, in 2015, with
The smoothie was a bit too sweet for our taste -
The restaurant is equipped with fast Wi-Fi, with
less sugar in the drinks would have made a more
passwords written on every table, along with
balanced refreshment.
convenient electric outlets right below the seats.
20 more shops planned over the next five years throughout Ho Chi Minh City.
What Can Be Improved
Food & Drink
The Saigon pizza scene has been steadily growing,
While the pizza is hot, the crust is fine, but once it gets cold the dough can be a bit chewy. Eat it while hot!
What People Say
with more small, quality-focused pizza shops
Most ingredients are imported from Italy, with
springing up to offer authentic pies, along with
little compromise. These include Italian cheese,
large chains like Pizza Hut, Domino’s and Al
flour, tomatoes and ham. Smoked salmon is
Fresco’s opening stores at a rapid pace.
imported from Nha Trang.
Napoli’s aims to provide a steady balance between
The menu is simple, consisting of two fresh juices,
and three bubble reviews, with four at the time
fast-serve pizza and Italian authenticity, using
four smoothies, Lavazza coffee, wine, beer, cocktails
of writing dipping below these ratings. Most
quality ingredients and maintaining affordable
and mocktails. Drinks are all low in price for the
comment on the fast and welcoming service and
rates. Luckily, this balance is achieved, with a few
central location - keeping Napoli Japan’s idea of
the taste of the pizza, with several comments on the
other surprises thrown in.
low-priced beverages to compliment the food.
opposite side of the spectrum for food and quality.
The food menu consists of 14 tapas, 12 pizzas and a
Local Insight: Those who want to organize parties
small selection of salads, pasta dishes and desserts.
or events can reserve the entire restaurant for up
During our time there we tried the following:
to two hours, with free use of the projector.
Ambiance
Napoli has a solid four bubble rating out of 40 reviews on TripAdvisor, with a majority of five bubble reviews and a minority of four bubble
Napoli’s is a casual dining space, with some hints of Italian influence in the red-brick design. The cozy, comfortable seating is great for groups, and the al fresco area is nice for couples and solo passersby. Movies play on silent from a projector near the end of the shop, allowing for some distraction while you eat. The eatery adopts a Japanese approach to customer service and continuously improves as guest feedback comes in. The servers are smiling and
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THE WORLD’S MOST COMPREHENSIVE GATEWAY TO VIBRANT VIETNAM
vnd 22,000