By Locals, for Locals
Sách chuyên về quảng cáo - Phát hành miễn phí (nhiều tác giả)
10/2017
HEALTH by the numbers 2
93.8% Source: World Health Organisation
Cardiovascular disease
1
Diabetes urological blood endocrine
3
Neoplasms
chronic respiratory disease
4
BIRTHS ATTENDED BY SKILLED HEALTH PERSONNEL (2013)
LIFE EXPECTANCY Source: World Health Organisation
Un-intentional injuries
5
97%
<1% 2% <1%
Diarrheal diseases
6
Beer
Spirit
Other
RECORDED ALCOHOL PER CAPITA (15+) CONSUMPTION BY TYPE OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE
Neurological disorders
7
Wine
Source: World Health Organisation
81 YEARS
ADULT TOBACCO SMOKING (2016) CURRENT: 45.3% DAILY: 38.7%
HIV/AIDS & TB
8
71 YEARS
CURRENT: 1.1% DAILY: 0.9%
Transport injuries
ALCOHOL ABSTAINERS (BY PERCENTAGE), 2010
9
34.9% 10
62.9%
Cirrhosis
Source: World Health Organisation
Source: World Health Organisation
TOP 10 CAUSES OF DEATH IN VIETNAM Source: Center for Disease Control and Prevention
INFANT MORTALITY RATE 18/1,000 live births Source: Center for Disease Control and Prevention
The strength behind your insurance
Our digital Personal Health Record now comes FREE with every policy
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PHR
inquiry@pacificcross.com.vn
(+84 28) 3821 6699
Y
POPULATION MEDIAN AGE (2013)
OBESITY RATE OF CHILDREN, AGED 2-19
6.8%
29.8
Source: World Health Organisation
GENERAL OBESITY RATES, VIETNAM (2015)
1%
Source: healthdata.org
Measles Immunisation (Percentage of children aged 12-23 months)
OVERWEIGHT AND OBESITY RATE IN ADULTS AGED 25-29 IN SOUTHEAST ASIA
1990:
Source: healthdata.org
88%
VIETNAM
7.7
CAMBODIA
2000:
11.3
LAOS
97%
15.3 19.6
PHILIPPINES
22.1
MYANMAR
22.9
INDONESIA
2010:
SINGAPORE
30 30.5
THAILAND
98%
CO2 EMISSIONS (METRIC TONS ~1.7 PER CAPITA)
40.2
MALAYSIA 5
2016:
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
97% Source: World Bank
PERCENTAGE OF PEOPLE WITH ACCESS TO CLEAN WATER
1990:
63% 2000:
HEALTHCARE SPENDING IN ASIA (BILLIONS)
77%
8 7 6
2010:
5 4
91%
3 2 1 2011 VIETNAM
2012 MALAYSIA
2013 INDONESIA
THAILAND
2016:
2014
98%
PHILIPINES
Source: World Health Organisation
Source: World Bank
Average Births Per Woman in Vietnam
1990:
3.6
2000:
2.0
2010:
1.9
2016:
2.0 Source: World Bank
OUR SPECIALTIES General and tropical medicine
Psychiatry
Cardiology
Speech and language therapy
Obstetrics/gynecology
Traditional oriental medicine
Psychology
Psychomotor therapy
Osteopathic medicine
Childbirth education classes
Pediatrics
Home nurse service
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL 1 Han Thuyen, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84.28) 3827 23 66/67 Fax: (84.28) 3827 23 65 Email: info@cmi-vietnam.com
www.cmi-vietnam.com
3
#iAMHCMC
Editor’s note
#iAMHCMC
Editor’s note
By Locals, For Locals Editorial 4. Editor’s Note
HEALTH Features 2. Health by the Numbers 5. A Second Opinion 6. Where to Go for What 8. Food Machine: The Beginnings of Obesity 12. A Matter of the Mind: The State of
Psychology in HCMC
14. The Infancy of Vietnam’s Elderly Care 16. How Accessible Is Saigon? 18. Embracing Tradition: Alternative Medicine in Saigon 19. Let Your Child Be Sick? 20. The Victims of Healthcare 22. Masking the Effects: Toxic Fumes 23. When Smoke Gets In Your Eyes
environment FEATURE 25. Water Wars: Problems on Dong Nai
EDUCATION FEATURE 26. Mr & Mrs Brown Explore
Project-Based Learning
Last month, when I told a Vietnamese colleague that we’re beginning to work on our yearly health edition of #iAMHCMC, her eyes all but glazed over. She wearily, but tactfully, told me one thing: “There are a lot of healthcare problems in this country.” To be sure, for a developing country, healthcare is often the most difficult sector to modernise. The need for extremely educated human resources and expensive medical equipment puts a burden on any nation, regardless of economic status or resources. For this issue, we wanted to focus on the biggest and broadest issues that might affect your health in Vietnam. We explored issues like air pollution, water contamination, widespread nutritional changes and the realities of elderly care in a family-centric country. Right now they are serious topics, and each one can either get worse or better in the coming years. It’ll be interesting to see what road Vietnam’s development takes. For many foreigners planning their holiday or move to Vietnam, health is one of the first things they consider. Even today, the idea of Southeast Asia comes with fears of tropical diseases and health hazards that have been difficult to dispel. While the recent outbreak of dengue fever has proven that there are indeed threats in Vietnam you wouldn’t worry so much about in other countries, it’s easy to hyperbolise them. With a bit of extra planning and effort, it’s entirely possible and actually pretty easy to live a healthy life here. In Ho Chi Minh City, with myriad conveniences and extravagances, it’s tempting not to make the effort. It’s all about personal choices: enjoy life here, but in the right ways! Best,
FOOD FEATURE 28. Banh Mi vs. Big Mac:
The Economics of a Meal
Keely Burkey
REAL ESTATE FEATURE 30. Distant Dreams?
The Construction of Thu Thiem
Have feedback? Contact me at kEELY@INNOVO.VN
ART FEATURE 32. A Matter of Black and White
TRAVEL FEATURE 34. Spirited Away: Dalat’s Bo Bla Waterfall
RECIPE OF THE MONTH 29. Pan-Fried Squab with Crispy Sticky Rice
ADVERTORIALS 7. Get Healthy: Get Screened! 13. The Birth of Precision Healthcare
in Vietnam
24. Healing Hearts at CMI 27. Fit for Life:
The Benefits of Physical Education
31. An Expat’s Guide to Healthcare in Vietnam 33. Eden Resort Phu Quoc 4 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Sr. Technical Officer Stefan Georg
Digital Marketing Analyst Minh Tran
Writers Jesús López-Gomez Robyn Wilson Arik Jahn Dr. John Lucas Tom Divers
Digital Marketing Assistant My Tran
Copyeditor Rob van Driesum
Sr. Designer Tung Dinh
Editor-In-Chief Patrick Gaveau
Production Coordinator Oanh Tran
Co-Owner Benjamin Giroux
Marketing Coordinator Thomas Kervennic
Executive Assistant & HR Manager Do Nhai General Accountant Nguyen My
BD Manager Philippe Chambraud
Content Manager Keely Burkey Visual Content Producer Emilio Piriz
Sr. Developer Ai Nguyen Front Cover Øyvind Sveen
Online Content Coordinator Sivaraj Pragasm
E-NOVO CO., LTD 42/37 Hoang Dieu, District 4, HCMC | +84 28 3825 4316 | sales@innovo.vn
HEALTH (nhiều tác giả)
Thanh Niên Publishing House 64 Ba Trieu - Hanoi - Vietnam | Tel: (+84 0 24) 3 943 40 44 - 62 63 1719 Publishing Liability: Director - Editor in Chief: Nguyen Xuan Truong | Editor: Ta Quang Huy License Info: Publishing Registration Plan No.: 1775-2017/CXBIPH/30-82/TN Publishing Permit No.: 640/QĐ-TN | Issued on 18 September 2017 | ISBN: 978-604-64-7999-4 5,000 copies printed at HCMC Nhan Dan Newspaper Printing Co., Ltd (D20/532P, Hamlet 4, Binh Chanh District, HCMC) No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.
health FEATURE
by Dr. John Lucas
#iAMHCMC
A Second Opinion The Internet of Medical Things
It’s always useful to get a second opinion when it comes to health. Here are some thoughts by Dr. John Lucas, Medical Director at FV Hospital.
The Internet of Medical Things (IoMT) is a powerful disruptive force that can accelerate the transformation of healthcare from the current
Vietnam’s health system is dealing with many
state. It will enable patients and doctors to be
of the same challenges faced by other countries
connected any time, any place with anyone with
with emerging economies. These include
a smartphone, tablet or sensor.
rising consumer demand and expectations
Exponential data will be created, stored via
from a hospital sector that is experiencing
cloud computing and exploited to provide
overcrowding, poor access, maldistribution
necessary medical information to doctors and
of resources between urban and rural markets
patients to work as aligned partners , ensuring
and a medical establishment that is not oriented
that care embodies the 5P’s: personalised,
to service excellence or to provide efficient
predictive, preventive, precise and participative.
continuing care to patients with the chronic diseases associated with ageing and affluence.
Future Plans Numerous initiatives are underway to transform Vietnamese healthcare. The government is working to build new public facilities, expand the private healthcare sector and implement universal insurance coverage, which will have the concomitant effect of further increasing demand. Vietnam’s healthcare system is at a crossroad and a guiding principle must be established to optimise the performance of a system benefiting from increased financing, investment and new facilities.
Personalised care considers the unique Fortunately, Vietnam is becoming one of the
characteristics of each individual. Predictive care
world’s most connected countries, reflected in
identifies the potential risk for future disease
the over 40,000,000 “smart” mobile devices
occurrences. Preventive care plans for proactive
now in use, along with an equal number of
actions to mitigate the identified disease risk.
personal computers and a burgeoning number
Precise care identifies which treatments will
of connected, wearable devices that monitor
be effective for individual patients based on
health. We must more broadly deploy this
genomic, environmental and lifestyle factors.
“internet of medical things”, along with the
Personal, connected healthcare technologies
data generated, and use the available advanced
offer a venue for us to re-imagine a transformed
logic to guide the delivery of higher quality,
health system in Vietnam where people are
more efficient and safer medical care.
empowered to take responsibility for their own
This new digitally supported system will empower patients to make the best decisions to improve their own health and well-being. By supporting the widespread adoption of digital
The aims of a transformed system must include the triple aim of affordability, improved patient experiences and accountability for improved clinical outcomes.
tools to support virtual care by doctors, we will
health and wellness.
Consumers must have the tools and information needed to take charge and make healthier personal choices.
be able to improve care management and access
It won’t happen tomorrow unless we all work
across a continuum of healthcare that includes
together today. Every hospital and doctor group
other digitalised trading partners like specialists,
should undertake a digital strategy. Patients,
ancillary services, pharmacies and hospitals.
healthcare providers and the government must
This leaves a gap of about five million elderly
embrace improved health as a shared objective
By accelerating the pace of transformation, the
people who do not receive any form of pension
and align their goals, standards and practices
triple aim can be achieved.
or benefits.
accordingly.
5
#iAMHCMC
health FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
Where to Go for What Health clinics are popping up everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City. Here are our personal recommendations to take care of whatever ails you.
major advantage here is the large range of hightech dental equipment. Elite Dental 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 | +84 28 3933 3737 | inquiry@elitedental.com.vn | e.elitedental.com.vn
Cardiology: Tam Duc Heart Hospital 4 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 | +84 28 5411 0025 | hospital@ tamduchearthospital.com | tamduchearthospital.com/home/en
Dedicated to all matters of the heart, Tam Duc Heart Hospital has been the go-to cardiology stop for years. Private clinics will have excellent cardiology departments, but the heart is Tan Duc’s bread and butter.
Oncology: FV Hospital
Patients love Elite Dental’s team: they’re warm, friendly and knowledgeable. They also specialise in dental implants.
Paediatrics: Victoria Healthcare 81 Dien Bien Phu, D1 | +84 28 3910 4545 | info@victoriavn.com | victoriavn.com
Victoria Healthcare’s newest clinic includes not one but two floors entirely dedicated to paediatrics. One level is for check-ups, while the other handles children with infectious symptoms—no cross-contamination here.
6 Nguyen Luong Bang Tan Phu, D7 | +84 28 5411 3333 | information@fvhospital.com | fvhospital.com
FV’s Hy Vong Cancer Centre is top of the line
Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Province | +84 65 0363 6068 | info@hanhphuchospital.com |
and has the Joint Commission International’s
hanhphuchospital.com
Gold Seal of Approval. Both Dr. Vo Kim Dien
Famously operating on “Singapore Standard”,
and Dr. Tran Thi Phuong Thao are highly
Hanh Phuc has a paediatric centre, a safari-
experienced and fluent in English, French
themed patient ward and a neonatal intensive
and Vietnamese.
care unit. They’re the real deal.
Obstetrics and Gynaecology: Hanh Phuc Hospital Hanh Phuc Hospital: Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Province | +84 65 0363 6068
Dermatology: Stamford Skin Center 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 | +84 28 3925 1990 | info@stamfordskin.com | stamfordskin.com
info@hanhphuchospital.com | hanhphuchospital.com
Internationally run and well staffed, this palace
The most well-known and beloved women’s
of skin care doesn’t just stop at dermatology.
health department in the city. Top marks go
Come here for all your issues involving hair and
to Dr. Robert Riche, a native of France, who
nails as well, but expect an international-sized
runs the department with great aplomb and
bill when you’re done.
bedside manner.
Dentistry: Westcoast International Dental Clinic
6 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Hanh Phuc Hospital
Optometry: Ngoc Toan Optical 106 Le Thanh Ton, D1 | +84 28 3823 2059
17-19 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | +84 28 3825 6999 |
This small mom-and-pop glasses shop is
info@westcoastinternational.com | westcoastinternational.com
a popular place for a good eye check-up.
You’ll be able to find cheaper dentistry in the
Vietnamese-owned, they speak fluent English.
city, but if you want some quality work and
Word to the wise: remember to haggle for
peace of mind, we recommend Westcoast. One
prices!
HEALTH ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
Get Healthy: Get Screened! Everybody needs a health screening to make sure they’re healthy. Good news: bring in this article, and you get 10 percent off your bill at Medical Diag Center’s new location in District 10!
a turnaround time of just a few hours for some general blood tests.
All you need to learn about your health can be done with a yearly check-up in the one place. This level of service doesn’t appear on its own:
The first step to leading a healthy lifestyle is
it requires a high level of international standards
learning about your individual health. It’s not
regimented each day.
enough to simply eat well and exercise: if you
And that’s where the International Organisation
come from a family with a history of illness,
for Standardisation (ISO) comes in.
or live a lifestyle affected by pollution or highstress situations, you might still be at risk.
An independent, non-governmental institution, ISO gives world-class specifications for
Your susceptibility to diseases increases as you
products, services and systems to ensure that
age, and that’s why the American Cancer Society
all members of the organisation observe quality,
recommends annual check-ups once you turn 40.
safety and efficiency.
If you’re younger, it’s best to get checked every three years. And if you suspect something might
In 2015, the Medical Diag Center obtained
be wrong? It’s best to get diagnosed as soon as
ISO’s certification (ISO 15189:2012) for its
possible!
medical laboratories, a certificate reinforced
Once you make the decision to get checked,
Medical Diag Center, New Location: 414 Cao Thang, D10
you’ll be happy to know that you’ll be well
+84 28 3979 8181 | diag-center.com
taken care of in Ho Chi Minh City. Since 1998, the Medical Diag Center, a fully foreign-owned enterprise, has provided an international level of care and service to individuals and company in Vietnam, and they’re not stopping anytime soon.
Simply put, if you need a check-up, this is the place to go.
What Do They Do?
delivers blood directly into the collection tubes, so it’s never exposed to air.
different specialities: laboratory diagnostics, imaging, internal medicine, external medicine, ophthalmology, dermatology, gynaecology and obstetrics, ENT and dental care. In three locations across Ho Chi Minh City, the Medical
For many international-level clinics in Ho Chi
painful than using a syringe. This is just one
Minh City, top-level care often equates to high-
of the ways the Medical Diag Center has made
shelf prices. Thankfully, this isn’t the case for
efforts to bring an international level of care
the Medical Diag Center, which has kept prices
and management to Vietnam.
low since it opened in 1998.
Fast, Dedicated and Accurate
After shopping prices between other clinics and
Once the blood is drawn, it has to be sent to a laboratory for testing, and at the Medical Diag Center, blood and urine samples can be tested for anything under the sun, much of it done in the in-house lab.
health quickly, accurately and efficiently.
devoted to laboratory testing, and the extensive
you receive your lab results. International
the Medical Diag Center, chances are you’ll be amazed at the difference.
Two floors of its newest clinic in District 10 are
moment you walk into the door until the moment
International Services at a Low Price
amount of blood automatically, it’s far less
Diag Center can pinpoint and evaluate your
This level of professionalism is apparent from the
doesn’t mean the services will break your bank.
Since the Vacutainer system draws the correct
The Medical Diag Center doesn’t just do general check-ups—these are the people to go to for nine
with monthly external inspections. But that
list of possible evaluations goes on: cancer screenings, diabetes testings, STD checks and cholesterol surveys…
By running tests in-house rather than sending them to other diagnostic clinics, this company has the knowledge and technology to do everything you need without a middleman—and it’s to your benefit. With a new clinic recently opened earlier this year to accommodate even more patients, the Medical Diag Center now has three locations to help you learn more about your health. And
standards are applied across the board. Case in
All done on machines ordered from the top
best of all, when you take this article, you’ll get
point: the Vacutainer. Rarely used in Vietnam
medical manufacturing countries, including
10 percent off your bill at their new Cao Thang
due to the higher cost, this blood drawing system
Switzerland, Japan, Germany and Korea, with
location in District 10. 7
#iAMHCMC
health FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
Food Machine: The Beginnings of Obesity Vietnamese food is healthy, but the food served today? Less so. And it could mean big trouble for the country’s youth.
one hand, malnutrition remains an issue; on
lipids, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals
the other, obesity and lifestyle-related problems
because there is a great natural diversity of
have increased rapidly, which puts weight on
agricultural products.” He goes on to conclude
government policy.”
that “It is this diversity and variety that are the foundations of a healthy and balanced lifestyle.”
Right now Vietnam is straddling two different worlds: at either end of this long and narrow country you have two powerhouse cities while a smattering of smaller cities follow suit. Although Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City get
She concluded, “All in all, more and more people are facing some kind of nutrition-related problems, but the sad thing is that it is hard to find an appropriate resource to help them.”
The vast majority of the country live in rural landscapes, where life is completely different.
The Vietnamese Paradox Nutrition-based health problems and noncommunicable diseases are wreaking havoc on
towns and metropolises—differ in all aspects,
the population of Vietnam, a curious problem
from infrastructure to education to food and
for a country with a deep-seated pride and love
diet. While the former two examples affect
for its traditionally healthy cuisine.
of it.
Commonly lauded as one of the most healthy cuisines in the world, nutritional experts are
As Dr. Nguyen Thi Dan Thanh, a nutritionist at
quick to list the many benefits of a purely
Victoria Healthcare and lecturer at the Medical
Vietnamese diet. Antoine Yvon, a former
University wrote in an email, “Community-
nutritionist at Centre Medical International,
wise, Vietnam currently is in a nutrition
wrote in a former issue of #iAMHCMC that
transition period, which is characterised by
“[a]s a professional, I have seen that dishes
the existence of both the nutrition problems
and ingredients used in Vietnamese cuisine
in advanced and advancing economies. On the
can cover all the dietary needs on protein,
8 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
a balanced diet: fats, proteins, starches and, of course, plenty of vegetables.
there’s no wonder many Vietnamese people don’t stray from their national cuisine. However, this might be part of the problem.
The realities of these two landscapes—rural
the quality of life, the latter affects the length
pho. Here you have everything you need for
Simple yet complex, fresh yet slow-cooked,
the lion’s share of the press, they make up just 25 percent of the country’s overall population.
The common example is usually a bowl of
Phil Kelly, a fitness specialist, took time to meet with me—ironically, at Tous Les Jours, one of the many Western-style quick-fix cafes doing well in Ho Chi Minh City. “There’s a big difference between what’s traditional [Vietnamese food] and what it’s turned into,” he tells me.
“Now, with modern-day cooking and flavour enhancement they’re adding more oils, more sugar… If you go back to basic eating, they never had that. It was actually very healthy.”
health FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
statistic when you consider that over 45 percent of men in Vietnam smoke habitually. Cancer is just one example. Other noncommunicable diseases caused by poor diet include cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and chronic pulmonary diseases; it’s estimated that 7 out of 10 deaths in Vietnam are caused by cancer or one of these chronic diseases.
Getting Bigger Faster The decline of nutrition standards, and the adverse effects that come with it, is nothing new to Vietnam, or even the world. Case in point: obesity. Antoine Yvon mirrored this view, calling the problem “a Vietnamese paradox”: while Vietnamese food might be based on vegetables and healthy cooking techniques, the onset of chemically enhanced flavour profiles and industrialised cooking methods have rendered it anything but.
Building a Foundation
A well-publicised study published in The New England Journal of Medicine last July found that worldwide, 2.2 billion people are considered overweight. Unsurprisingly, the US was found to have the greatest number of obese adults (79.4 million people, almost a quarter of the population), while Vietnam and Bangladesh were tied for last—8.1 million people in Vietnam were overweight, less than two percent of the adult population. While these results are undoubtedly good—especially for a
“Nutrition is the foundation for everything
country ranked seventh-to-last in terms of daily
that we do,” Phil Kelly says simply. “You can
physical exercise, according to a global survey
be very, very healthy and not exercise. If you
put out by Stanford University—the rising rate
exercise and don’t have your nutrition and
of obesity is cause for alarm.
lifestyle right, you can be unhealthy.”
The obesity numbers have risen steadily in
Kelly describes the basic tenets of nutrition and
recent years, although the exact statistics depend
its part in health: our bodies are in a continual
on which studies you read. A recent study by
process of rejuvenation. Our cells grow and
the University of Washington has shown a 6.8
die, renewing our skin and cellular tissue—the
percent obesity rate in Vietnamese children
cells of our bones, for example, completely
aged 2 to 19 (to put this in context, the US’s
regenerate every 10 years.
current rate is 28.5 percent), while a survey by
However, the strength of the cells, and therefore the strength of our bodies and health, depends primarily on the food we use to fuel the process.
Antoine Yvon says that 40 percent of cancers in Vietnam are linked to food consumption, caused mainly by processed foods, bad eating habits and the presence of pesticides and chemicals.
Vietnam’s National Institute of Nutrition has listed the childhood obesity rate in urban cities to be as high as 40 percent in major cities, an increase of almost 10 times from a decade ago. While it can’t be called a fully fledged epidemic at the moment, Antoine Yvon points out that the number of Vietnamese children under five years old with weight problems has doubled in the past four years, and the rate of obese gradeschoolers in Ho Chi Minh City tripled from 2002 to 2009. The municipal administration
Professor Hoang Dinh Chau, the director of
of HCMC aims to keep the rate of overweight
the Hung Viet Cancer Hospital, says that in
and obese children under five years of age at less
Vietnam more people die from cancer caused
than 12 percent by 2020; as of yet, no public
by unsafe food than from smoking, a shocking
campaigns have been pursued. 9
#iAMHCMC
health FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
It means we have to be smart and put everything on our plate with a sense of control.”
East vs. West? The changes in health, especially in urban and increasingly modernised areas, seem to point
Worse Before it Gets Better
to a widespread shift in the way Vietnamese people feed themselves and their families. This has roughly correlated with Vietnam’s entry
Rather than throwing the baby out with
into the World Trade Organisation in 2007.
the bathwater, experts have been looking at individual factors in the shifting food landscape,
Has the influx of Westernised food products
above all: portion size, sugar consumption and
spurred the changes?
an increased use of processed ingredients.
Jake Pulkrabek, a barbecue specialist who owns
Phil Kelly is adamant that portion size plays a
Jake’s American BBQ in District 1, said that
big role. “With a rising economy and additional
although Western food is now more prevalent
[spending money], people are going out and
in Vietnam, that doesn’t necessarily mean that
enjoying more food. It’s treating yourself.”
Vietnamese people are flocking to it. Pulkrabek’s business model emphasises American authenticity, and for him that starts with the ingredients. “When you’re trying to make something as authentic as possible, you have to use a lot of imported ingredients. So that always brings up the price a bit more than the local cuisine, which makes it a little more challenging for the locals to come and try it.” Hitting the right price points is important in a country still in the throes of development, where the average annual income per capita is below US$2,000 in HCMC. Even fast food, considered a cheap food option in Western countries, is a spendy splurge in Vietnam.
Kelly has observed that Vietnamese eaters are trips, he has noticed a loyal following among
generally controlled, but he sees voracious
Viet Kieus—Vietnamese people who have spent
appetites in children especially, encouraged by
time or grown up abroad, many of whom are
parents who might not understand the adverse
now heading back to Vietnam.
ramifications of too much food.
With a more diverse palate and a taste for
On a cultural level, Kelly also worries about the
Western cuisines, Viet Kieus act as a bridge
ubiquitous use of sugar in modern Vietnamese
between the two culinary worlds, aided by a
cooking, a culinary trend especially prevalent
growing middle-class income that allows for
in the South. Studies have shown that diabetes
a dinner out.
rates have grown particularly in the Mekong
Dr. Thanh from Victoria Healthcare considers the issue from all angles. “As a specialist in nutrition, I do welcome the wide introduction of foreign foods in Vietnam,” she writes. “I can understand the worried views, however, from my opinion, food is a pleasure, and having the
Delta region. Kelly recalls that when he moved to Ho Chi Minh City five years ago, “when [I] asked for no sugar, it was quite an issue to really explain it.” Today he sees more knowledge of the health defects of sugar, though the use of it in cooking is still strong.
opportunity to try different foods is a blessing;
Above all, Dr. Thanh worries most about
Although around 85 percent of Pulkrabek’s
why do we have to reject it? Eating right does
sugar consumption in young people today. She
clientele are expats or foreigners on business
not mean we have to starve until death.
writes that on the weekend, it’s common to
10 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
health FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
“The whole snacking phenomenon came about when food companies were searching for new markets,” Phil Kelly notes. “It wasn’t that we needed to snack. Highly advertised packaged snacks came into existence for a purpose… When was the last time you saw a TV advert for broccoli?” Dr. Thanh describes her own journey towards becoming one of Ho Chi Minh City’s first Vietnamese nutrition specialists when she saw the adverse effects of some foods:
see young people clutching a sugary milk tea. This, combined with “the habit of using sugar
“I came to the conclusion that nutrition is one of the most [serious] problems for patients, but at that time we were not taught nutrition at school. That was the reason I chose to join a newly established nutrition department in my university.”
in almost every recipe, especially nuoc mam,” is cause for concern. The government is also taking note of excess sugar consumption and has proposed an additional tax on imported soft drinks—a controversial proposition that has garnered plenty of criticism from advocates of free trade. The tax would join the ranks of neighbouring countries like Cambodia (10 percent tax) and Thailand (20 to 25 percent tax), although nothing has yet been mandated. When asked about the issue, Jake Pulkrabek sees similarities in America: “In America, we’re getting to the point where everything we eat is out of a box or a bottle.”
As convenience stores like Circle K, Family Mart and recently 7-11 have taken hold in the FMCG market, chances are the situation will get worse before it gets better.
Education Is Key
Today Dr. Thanh is pioneering nutrition education with the help of Victoria Healthcare. She heads up a program called MyPlate, which counsels Vietnamese women about healthier cooking options. And just as Vietnamese people who have spent time abroad come back with altered palates, they also come back with new information and outlooks about food in general. Cindy Kawak, General Manager of Propaganda Bistro, has noticed a shift: “They come back with different knowledge, with different views of health and the world. And they share it.” Kawak describes her experience becoming vegetarian, and seeing the curiosity of her staff. “Now some of them want to go that way too. They see that it’s not killing me, but in fact quite the contrary.” Small shifts are perceptible on the business side of things as well: a recent Nielsen’s Consumer Confidence Index report for Vietnam has determined that 34 percent of Vietnamese consumers list health as a number one concern; Nguyen Van Viet, the chair of the Vietnam Beverage Association, has reported a trend away
As Vietnam modernises and the middle class
from sugary drinks and towards juice drinks or
continues to grow, consumer spending has
drinks with reduced sugar.
outpaced public education and awareness of health and nutrition.
But a clear top-down educational structure has yet to be developed. At the moment, most
Many people interviewed agreed that the
people in Vietnam gain knowledge through their
general perception of health and the body is
own efforts, rather than at school or through
limited, leaving the market open for global food
media campaigns. As food-related disease rates
distributors whose sales in Western countries
inch higher, can knowledge be gained before the
have stagnated.
damage is irreversible? 11
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health FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
A Matter of the Mind: The State of Psychology in HCMC Mental health issues exist in every country. But can Western psychology take hold in Vietnam?
people don’t like psychology. It’s not true. They’re curious about it.” Both Jeffrey and Langton noted that the problem of practising psychology in HCMC
A young Vietnamese woman is pulled in two
wasn’t that it was frowned upon, but rather that
directions: on the one side, she’s just received a
there was no system of reference for it, leading
big promotion at work, and she’s excited about
to difficulties when it came to paperwork.
where her career is taking her; on the other,
Jeffrey, for example, remembers hiring a speech
her family constantly reminds her that she has to think seriously about getting married and
doctors in psychiatry have been well supported
settling down. The choice is ultimately up to
here in Vietnam. In contrast, psychology is
her, but it often leads to anxiety and depression.
still in its infancy.” Psychiatry was practised
It’s these sorts of scenarios, involving the battle between traditional values and modern opportunities, that lead people to seek Psychotherapist Azrael Jeffrey’s services at the International Center for Cognitive Development (ICCD). “It’s about supporting them in their endeavors, and with what would make them happy, whether it be quitting their job or moving to another country,” he says.
At the moment Jeffrey and his team at ICCD are among the few fully accredited mental health practitioners in Ho Chi Minh City—but that doesn’t mean there’s not a need for them.
mainly in the form of government-run mental hospitals, which took in patients suffering from severe mental illnesses like schizophrenia and
pathologist—the first in the country. “Getting a work permit was hard. There was no “speech pathologist” career they could enter. It didn’t exist in Vietnam yet.”
Molding Young Minds
delusional disorders (60 percent of patients, according to Ministry of Health statistics), mood disorders (15 percent) and stress-related disorders (15 percent).
Alternatively, the Western concept of help being sought during stressful times or dark life moments was completely foreign. A stigma began to form against seeking help,
Right now the vast majority of formally registered psychologists in Vietnam are expatriates, but this is likely to change in the coming years. Apart from individual sessions, Azrael Jeffrey also counsels college students, and he’s seeing more and more interest in the field of psychology.
although Langton notes that this is an issue
Rather than study in Vietnam, where
in her native Australia as well. “In Vietnam
counselling programs are still quite limited,
I see stigmas shifting between generations;
Jeffrey encourages interested students to pursue
Vietnam’s National Institute of Mental Health
in Vietnam a student may openly talk about
their education overseas.
(NIMH) stated in 2016 that 30 percent of
experiencing depression but struggle with
Vietnam’s population suffer from some form of
discussing it with their parents, or their parents
mental illness, primarily depression (25 percent).
may struggle sharing that information outside
According to the Vietnam Veterans of America Foundation (VVAF), the rate of diagnosable mental disorders in Vietnam is 15 percent, a
of their immediate relatives,” she says.
A Matter of Perception
to a larger problem: an incomplete portrait of
This purveying stigma has led many to believe
mental health issues in Vietnam.
that psychology couldn’t be integrated into Vietnamese society as it is in North America and Europe. When Azrael Jeffrey founded ICCD two years
Mental health in Vietnam has been
ago, he noticed that it wasn’t the Vietnamese
compartmentalised. Jacqueline Langton, a
who had a problem with it—it was the
psychologist with a private practice in HCMC,
foreigners: “Most people thought it was silly.
notes that, “Degrees and specialisation for
There was the stereotype that Vietnamese
12 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Vietnamese psychologists will probably take the forefront here,” he predicts. For now, it’s all about changing cultural perceptions, and this might be easier than previously supposed.
noticeable difference. These wide variants point
A Shadowed History
“When they come back in five or six years,
Jacqueline Langton has noticed a definite shift in the perception of psychology in her seven years in Vietnam, as has Jeffrey. “I’ve seen tremendous change,” he says.
“When I first came here and said I was a psychologist, it would clear the room. Now I say it and people come up to me and start asking questions.”
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The Birth of Precision Healthcare in Vietnam your family history contains breast cancer or early deaths from heart attacks, for example. You may be carrying a gene that puts you at higher risk. Even worse? You might pass down that mutated gene to your own children.
But there is help and hope: Victoria Healthcare provides genetic sequencing, a simple blood test that can analyse your DNA. Your genetic roadmap is revealed. The future of healthcare isn’t curing diseases—it’s preventing illness from happening altogether. What if you could understand, predict and then manage your own health and wellness? We all know how the traditional medical system works: you get sick, you see the doctor. Maybe you live a healthy lifestyle, but what has that got to do with the doctor? You know that yearly check-ups, testing for bad stuff, etc., allows you to catch disease at an early stage. However, it was passive, rather than actively controlling your own health. But now, that old doc-in-the-box is transforming into your wellness center, working with you in your real, daily life to help you be healthier and happier. Clinics, such as Victoria Healthcare, may be the place where you positively pursue good health, not just stave off disease. This has been a trend in most of the developed countries, but is still not common in Vietnam. But the first waves of this tide are already hitting the beach. The doctors at Victoria Healthcare are advocating a culture of partnering in your wellness, understanding disease as a departure from wellness. Victoria has set up a team-based care structure to provide wrap-around care from birth, throughout life—emphasizing how life can be enhanced, through health and wellness.
And the more you and your doctor know about your health, the better you can manage yourself.
Not Just Lifestyle
Based on this information, your doctors, who include a geneticist and a nutritionist, will help you develop a plan that involves lifestyle
One’s genetic inheritance plays a huge role, even with a healthy lifestyle. Fundamentally, what determines your health? Surprise! Your lifestyle only contributes about 40 percent to your overall health. Environmental factors contribute 20 percent. Healthcare quality provides another 10 percent.
However, the remaining 30 percent is based on your genetic makeup. Your genes, the DNA you inherit from your parents, determines who you are. Although all humans share 99.9 percent of the same genes, that sticky little 0.1 percent makes all the difference. It determines who YOU are, like your hair and eye colour, your height, and even your disposition. It also determines if your DNA pre-programs you to develop chronic diseases or even early death. Certain common conditions, like cancer, diabetes, and heart disease, aren’t brought on simply by lifestyle choices like smoking, drinking and a poor diet, although they contribute. Many conditions are also hereditary: thank your parents! Thus, based on your genes, you may be at high risk.
Precision Personal Healthcare
management individually designed to keep you as healthy as possible throughout your life. Genetic sequencing can’t tell you when you’ll get sick in the future. What it does tell you is how to manage your lifestyle to maximise your wellness. Usually changes in your diet, exercise, medication, or special testing at your annual check-ups can safeguard you. Thus, part of wellness is predictive healthcare: precision and personalised. Victoria Healthcare is embracing this as your best option for managing your health. The new emphasis on wellness and precision healthcare asks you to actively manage your health, rather than passively waiting for illness to strike. Victoria Healthcare can be your partner in maximising your wellness and quality of life. By combining knowledge of your genes and optimising your lifestyle, you take over care of 70 percent of your overall health and longevity. Learning early about your own individual health risks and what you may pass on to your children could be the difference between life and early death. And with actively managing your own health with precision and guidance, you are setting a new standard for healthcare in Vietnam. Victoria Healthcare My My Clinic 1: 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Clinic 2: 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District Victoria Healthcare JSC
This is where Victoria Healthcare can help you.
Clinic 3: Broadway D, 152 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7
Say, you’re getting a check-up and you state that
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health FEATURE
by Sivaraj Pragasm
The Infancy of Vietnam’s Elderly Care As Vietnam’s population gets older, its healthcare system for the elderly is still at its infancy. Will this mismatch be a major issue? With one in 10 people aged 60 or older, Vietnam is slowly en route to an “ageing phase”, a term used to describe a situation where about 10 percent of the country’s population is above the age of 60. However, with an ageing population comes the increased need for infrastructure and resources catering to elderly healthcare.
Falling Through The Cracks
There are about 1.4 million people across the country above the age of 80, along with about
According to data from HelpAge Global Network’s Global AgeWatch Index, a noncontributory social pension of about US$9/ month is offered to elders above the age of 80 and to those aged 60 to 79 who are identified as “poor”; those aged 60 to 79 who have a severe disability as well as those 80 and above who are poor, living alone and without family support receive US$13.50/month; and those over 80 with a severe disability receive US$18/month.
And this is where the problem lies.
100,000 people between the ages of 60 to 79 receiving this pension. An additional 1.8 million pensioners receive a formal pension as part of social insurance.
This leaves a gap of about five million elderly people who do not receive any form of pension or benefits.
Lack of Knowledge In October, Deputy Minister of Health Pham Le Tuan emphasised that long-term care for
Vietnam’s population is expected to creep into
the elderly in Vietnam is a common process in
the “aged population” range, where 10 to 20
which social care takes a leading role. Currently,
percent of people are aged 65 and above, within
80 percent of the elderly are receiving care at
the next 20 years.
home and in the community, but caregivers still
However, the current social safety net for the
lack knowledge and there should be a strategy
elderly such as pensions and support schemes
to improve their knowledge.
can only cover about 30 percent of the overall
This sentiment is shared by Dr. Thao Tran
required costs.
Phuong, specialist at the Gastroenterology and
According to Carlos Galian, an expert with the
Hepatology Department at Victoria Healthcare
International Labour Organization in Vietnam,
Vietnam. “Most caregivers that families employ
“the pension scheme will start running a deficit
to look after the elderly are general caregivers,
in 2020 and the reserves could be totally
not specialised in elderly care and they may not
depleted by 2029, causing big problems for Vietnam’s economy.”
14 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
have the necessary training and experience to By Pixabay
handle elderly patients,” he said.
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The Allure of Geriatrics (Or Lack Thereof)
diabetes; stroke; dementia; complications from
The dearth of specialist caregivers for the
What Next?
falls; and cancer—especially lung cancer among men, mostly due to smoking.
elderly can be narrowed down to a few reasons according to Dr. Thanh Nguyen, nutritionist at Victoria Healthcare Vietnam and lecturer
Dr. Thao strongly believes that the right way
at Pham Ngoc Thach University of Medicine.
forward is for the authorities to establish a new hospital dedicated to elderly patients. Not
“Geriatrics is still pretty new in Vietnam.
only will it ease the load on geriatric wards in
Medical schools only started this program about
current hospitals, it will also kick-start interest
10 years ago, that is why there are not [many]
in the field. “When a new dedicated hospital
geriatric specialists in Vietnam yet,” she said. By Pixabay
Dr. Thao added that “geriatric studies is not very popular among medical students, so out of each graduating batch, very few actually end up as geriatric doctors. There is just simply a lack of interest and this needs to change soon.”
“In most countries, the gap could easily be filled in by foreign doctors, but in Vietnam, everything is done in Vietnamese and that language barrier will be a huge problem,” he said. The biggest reason, however, according to both doctors, is the lack of a dedicated medical facility for the elderly in Vietnam.
is built for the elderly, it will open up many opportunities for the recruitment of geriatric
Home Improvement
specialists and in turn, will raise more interest
Dr. Thanh believes other social factors play a
“With more specialist doctors and nurses available, the standards of elderly healthcare will improve dramatically.”
part too. “In Vietnam, it is common for the family to look after the elderly at home, it’s part of their children’s duty. Therefore, the idea of a nursing home is almost considered a taboo.” “When a family decides to put their elderly in a nursing home, there is a chance that they will be viewed by their neighbours and relatives as unfilial and abandoning their parents,” she said.
in this field, which is currently lacking,” he said.
Dr. Thanh believes that besides a dedicated facility, there should also be more daycare centres available for the elderly within the city, and also in the various provinces. Mindsets towards nursing homes also have to be changed, and more resources for elderly care should be
The issue of keeping them at home, however,
made readily available for families who prefer
is that “most of these families don’t have the
keeping their elderly at home to equip them with
knowledge of how to properly take care of the
knowledge on how to properly care for them.
elderly,” she said. “There are no materials or
Dr. Thao believes that human resources can play
resources available that teach them how to do
a huge part in shifting the mindset of would-be
so, and this can be quite dangerous.” According
doctors towards geriatrics, and hopes to see this
Imagine what it’s like in the other provinces,”
to Dr. Thao, the most common issues among the
change happen soon to alleviate the shortage of
said Dr. Thao. Medical facilities aside, what
elderly include cardiovascular diseases, which
geriatric specialists, and to better prepare for the
about the elderly living at home?
include heart diseases and high blood pressure;
increased demand in the future.
“At this point in time, only certain hospitals have wards dedicated for geriatric care, and this is just in Ho Chi Minh City, which has the best standards for geriatric care in Vietnam.
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health FEATURE
by Arik Jahn
How Accessible Is Saigon? “In Vietnam,” Ms. Loan explains, “we focus very much on the impairment itself. But internationally, the definition covers not only the disability but also the social barriers that come with it.” Social barriers as in: not going to places because you’re afraid you might find the buildings (or the restrooms) inaccessible when you arrive.
Open Ears in Transportation By Arik Jahn
This is why the work of the DRD, founded by PWDs and officially subordinate to the Vietnam
Disabled people account for a staggering 15 percent of Vietnam’s population. How does the country’s biggest city cater for them?
public transportation.” While she’s saying that,
Union of Science and Technology Associations
we’re in the gardens of the Independence Palace
(VUSTA), is so important.
in the heart of Saigon.
Not only do they provide information on which locations are accessible, they also approach
Defining Disability
venues and institutions to encourage them to
Imagine you were blind and living in Saigon.
raise disabled-friendliness.
Imagine crossing the streets of this frenetic city.
Vietnamese with disabilities cannot access
Imagine its thick stream of vehicles flashing
Saigon’s most important historical site. Case in
around you while you don’t even know that
point: restrooms. The ones on the ground floor
rickety city bus with its 20-year-old brakes
are literally inaccessible as the doors are not
is coming right at you. Imagine dodging the
broad enough for a wheelchair to go through.
impromptu parkings, mobile food stalls, unequal
Taking the elevator (thankfully, there is one) to
paving stones and unsecured construction sites
the second floor, we find two other restrooms
on the sidewalks without actually seeing them.
with large enough door frames—but in one of
You’d rather stay at home? Welcome to the
them the cabins are so small Mrs. Hieu cannot
world of the more than 2,000 visually impaired
close the door, and in the second and bigger
of Saigon!
one there’s a step right in front of the toilet.
I’m out with Ms. Loan, Acting Director of the Centre for Disability Research and Capacity Development (DRD), her colleagues Mrs. Hieu,
Would you go to a place where you can’t go to the restroom? Which leads us to the question of how to define disabilities.
system for the blind, screens for people with hearing impairment and wheelchair lifts. The ambitious goal is to make buses fully accessible
Until then, the DRD runs its own transportation
Accessibility Technician, as well as Mr. Nha,
service with disabled-friendly three-wheel
who’s working for the Ho Chi Minh City Blind
motorbikes. It used to be offered free of charge,
Association and visually impaired himself. And
but the sponsor pulled out last December. Now
it is just now that I realise how hard it is for
it costs VND4,000 per kilometre. Still too
people with disabilities to live in Saigon.
much for many PWDs. Because here’s another problem: PWDs often completely depend on
The story they have to tell is both sad and full
their families.
of hope. If accessible means that people with disabilities (PWDs) can move freely, Saigon is
Barriers of Independence
anything but that. And still, Ms. Loan insists,
“I’d say, Saigon is partly accessible.”
Ms. Loan outlines three cases:
But she also sees the problems: “There are many
“The first is: the child is treated equally, they
difficulties for PWDs here. The biggest one is
16 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
And there’s more under progress: an audio
by 2020.
who’s in a wheelchair, and Mr. Vu, the DRD’s
the accessibility of public areas. Another one is
The transportation department is one of those institutions that we used to send letters to asking them to improve accessibility three years ago,” Ms. Loan says. “And they listened to us. Now, the main bus station has been upgraded with ramps, for example.”
go to school, to work. This is very important By Arik Jahn
for PWDs. Other families are overprotective.
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They do take care of their child, but he or she
on the disabilities of PWDs. They help to give
completely depends on the family. The kid
people an understanding how it is to be blind
can’t even go outside by themselves. The third
for an hour or two, and how, sometimes, it can
case is that the family ignores a child that has
be enriching not to see.
a disability.”
In downtown Saigon, many sidewalks have been
And even if a PWD gets the family’s support,
upgraded with tactile paving (textured pavement
the concrete barriers are still out there. Ms.
to help blind people orientate themselves), and
Loan mentions a common question for people
the Nguyen Hue walking street even got a set of
in wheelchairs who are searching a job: “How
talking traffic lights. If this was the case across
can I access the workplace?” Most offices are
the city, Mr. Nha says, he might actually be
not disabled-friendly. And in 2011, a new law
able to move independently. For now, especially
on disabilities waived the fixed percentage (2.3
crossing the street is an impossible mission for
percent) of PWDs companies had to employ
him without assistance:
before. Vietnam put history into reverse.
“If it’s a busy street, you cannot find your way By Arik Jahn
Even local people’s committees argue at times that PWDs don’t have to go to public
to run you over at high speed.” Either way, a
institutions themselves to do paperwork—they
recognise that he’s visually impaired and offer
could just ask their family members to help.
their help. He experiences all kinds of reactions
This is how barriers are raised. In their free
every day, he tells me.
time, PWDs are often faced with the same problems. Bar or restaurant owners time and again reject the DRD’s requests, saying: “PWDs don’t come here, why would we make this place accessible?” What a poor argument is that? You could just as well say there’s a need to ensure
“Many people are helpful and friendly, even support me to cross the street. Some others are not nice. When I bump into them by mistake or touch them, they curse at me.”
accessibility in order to allow PWDs to come.
Don’t Forget to Be Aware
through; and if it’s a quiet street, people risk helping hand is more than welcome.
“Saigon is definitely the disabledfriendliest city in Vietnam. People are open-minded, have a good attitude.” Ms. Loan’s conclusion might be surprising at first glance. She has lived and studied in Washington, D.C., a city that she calls “fully accessible”.
A New Hope
But one has to take into account what has already been improved in Saigon. And when
Engineering marvels like talking smartphones
we talk about sidewalk-clearing campaigns
It’s all about awareness, that other big word in
(his speaks Vietnamese and even gets the accents
or the futility of upgrading Saigon’s bus fleet,
the world of the disabled, and that is something
right!) or voice recognition software on his
perhaps we should give a thought to those
one has to learn. The DRD has put on several
computer allow him to live an independent life.
more than 13 million disabled people living
programmes to help teach awareness, at
He praises initiatives like Noir restaurant where
in Vietnam.
universities or for business leaders. While I’m
guests dine in the dark, served by blind waiters,
out with Mr. Nha, several people on the street
because they focus on the abilities, and not only
For more information on the work of the DRD, visit drdvietnam.org.
17
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health FEATURE
by Arik Jahn
Embracing Tradition: Alternative Medicine in Saigon Do you believe in traditional medicine? Many health professionals do. Here are the three most popular techniques.
How long does the treatment take? The actual application of the cups takes only 10 to 20 minutes. It can be accompanied with massages. You’d usually have a session every two weeks.
In Saigon, there are several reliable institutes that perform traditional medicine, such as
Does it hurt?
the government-owned Traditional Medicine
No, you just risk having a tight feeling on your
Institute in Phu Nhuan District or the Tam
skin during the treatment.
Duc Traditional Medical Clinic in Tan Binh
Are there possible side effects?
District. Then there’s also the CMI (Centre
Bruises, burns or even skin infections are
Médical International), a renowned Western
possible side effects. More often, you’ll just have
clinic in downtown Saigon. “Not many people
cup-shaped marks on your skin that disappear
know that the CMI has a traditional medicine
after a few days.
department,” Dr. Anh Thu, who has worked By Linh Phanroy
at the clinic since 2012, says laughing. Her family has been working in traditional
How long does the treatment take?
medicine for over five generations. When asked
A session can take from half an hour to two
about the core theory behind it, she summarises:
hours. Dr. Anh Thu recommends two to
“Our body consists of a giant web called [the]
three sessions per week during one month for
meridian system. It links the parts of the body,
average cases, but the frequency and number of
supplying them with the qi, the vital energy,
treatments differ from person to person.
and regulates the distribution of blood and bodily fluids. This way, it maintains the balance between yin and yang and the five elements to protect the body against diseases.” Ready to try it? Then the next question is how to choose the right practitioner. “Best is, as always, to follow recommendations,” Dr. Anh Thu says. Make sure they have an official licence and observe how the doctor communicates with you during your first consultation. Finally, there’s a range of techniques to choose from. We’ve
Does it hurt? If performed by a good practitioner it shouldn’t hurt. When the needles are inserted, you might feel some numbness, but it’ll pass after a few minutes. Are there possible side effects? The treatment might leave some bruises and a sore feeling, but serious complications like infections or damaged tissue are extremely rare.
picked the three most common ones.
Cupping
Acupuncture
What does it help against? Cupping is mainly used to deal with muscle
What does it help against? It is most commonly used for pain relief, but can also cure various other conditions such as migraines, insomnia or anxiety disorders, and can even help you to stop smoking.
pain, inflammation, fever or minor illnesses. Detoxification is another area of application. How does it work? Heated cups made of glass, bamboo or silicone are applied to the skin. When the air cools down,
Herbalism What does it help against? It helps against pretty much anything, really, depending on the herbs used. How does it work? Herbalist remedies exist in many forms: infusions and syrup, lotions and creams, or powders put in capsules. How long does the treatment take? Normally, the patient takes the medication for one week, then sees the doctor again to adjust the formula according to possible changes in the patient’s condition. From there, the treatment can take from three days to a lifetime. What about the taste? Really not good. Luckily, you mostly get herbalist medicine in capsule form. An oldschool infusion is said to work better, though. Are there possible side effects? As with everything you swallow, there can be side effects. Skin irritation or sleepiness would be two common ones.
How does it work?
a vacuum is generated, creating a suction effect
Do I have to go to the doctor for this?
Certain points along the body’s meridians are
that increases blood flow. The mildly terrifying,
Yes. Herbalist medicine varies strongly in
stimulated by inserting fine, sterile needles into
so-called “wet cupping” includes making tiny
quality, and not infrequently contains drugs
the skin in order to clear energy blockages and
cuts with a scalpel to draw out small quantities
or heavy metals. So it’s all the more important
adjust the flow of qi.
of blood.
to know the ropes—and reliable suppliers.
18 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
health FEATURE
by Jesús López-Gomez
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Let Your Child Be Sick?
In the year since it’s been released, a book co-authored by a Vietnamese doctor and a journalist is creating buzz, offering controversial counsel to parents of sick children: let them be ill. In De Con Duoc Om (in English, “Let your child be sick”) Victoria Healthcare International Clinic’s lead paediatrician Nguyen Tri Doan and writer Uyen Bui claim that “99 percent” of childs’ illnesses are not treatable by medicine, and will actually be harmed to a greater extent with the medicine than by the illness alone. Taking “antibiotics is not good for a child’s health and immune system,” Bui says. “We want to warn parents to avoid doing this and
There are limits to this more passive method of treating child illness. The book outlines conditions for when a child’s illness needs a more active approach and immediate medical attention. In the event of a fever, parents should allow the fever to resolve itself unless it lasts beyond 24 hours, in which case they should defer to treatment from a doctor. Similarly, if a child is ever so tired that they can’t recall basic facts about their life like his or her parents’ name, or if a child seems so tired they can’t do anything, parents should seek medical attention, Bui and Doan recommend.
Fighting Stereotypes
let their child be sick even when the symptoms are terrible.”
Illness, the Natural Way
Doan and Bui also tackle another child health issue affecting Vietnamese parents: misconceptions about what their child’s body ought to look like.
Doan and Bui recommend using as little medication as possible. For example, treating a child with a high temperature who is vomiting ought to be done with just paracetamol for palliative care. Vomiting is a natural defence, Bui argues, and should be seen as a natural part of the healing process. If the fever becomes too high and causes discomfort, then a pain reliever can and should be used.
“De Con Duoc Om” has two translations in English, the other being “Let your child be thin”. Bui explains that Vietnamese parents place a high premium on their child’s weight, but rather than the Western obsession with thinness they are obsessed with visible weight gain.
Parents often mistakenly worry that a thin child is suffering from an eating disorder.
If “a child just [has a] high temperature but he
a problem that didn’t exist before. Parents will have their child eat while playing and watching TV between meals. This often comes from comparing the child to their perhaps larger peers, but Bui says she and her co-author “want to alarm them to let their child develop at his individual pace,” she says. “Don’t compare their child’s weight to another,” she adds. All told, the book addresses a group of 20 healthcare misconceptions like this, “mistakes that are too popular that every parent always [makes] when they become a parent”, like dealing with illnesses, managing illness symptoms, training parents to assess sound advice from bogus instructions and the proper use of medicine.
In the year since the book has been released, it has generated positive feedback from parents, Bui says. Over 70,000 copies have been sold. In addition to re-framing the discussion about what to accept during a child’s illness, Bui says the book is about building more surety in parents by advising best practices and reminding parents that their powerlessness before their child’s infection isn’t ineptitude, it’s just the natural state of affairs. Bui says parents tell her the book has made them “feel more confident in [themselves] and have … good care of their [child] whenever [they] got sick.” Because the book does not cite studies and is based largely on professional judgements from Doan’s experience, Bui hedges against applying
still feels fine, paracetamol is not necessary,”
To fix this misdiagnosis, Bui says parents will
the book’s advice too precisely, stating that it’s
Bui says.
often overfeed their child, potentially creating
a “skill” book rather than a medical text. 19
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health FEATURE
by Jesús López-Gomez
The Victims of Healthcare fragmented” and frequently spearheaded by environmental groups powerless before the incumbent bureaucracies.
Formidable Opponents Both Nguyen and the Elephant Action League fault lax inspection and product control at the Chinese-Vietnamese border, making northern Vietnam a hotbed for illegal rhino trade. What’s more, the Elephant Action League’s report says rhino horn trade is a multinational
Even today, alternative healthcare practices laud the benefits of consuming endangered animals. As of yet, there’s no end in sight. While the sale and trade of rhino horns has been banned and airport authorities have seized hefty amounts of the illegally traded product— much of it on its way to China, indisputably the biggest offender and consumer of these prohibited items—a recent report on the state of enforcement and rhinoceros welfare says the market is doing just fine. A blockbuster report by US-based NGO Elephant Action League traces the route South Africa’s rhinos make to China, placing much
This is despite the decision from South Africa, home to 80 percent of the rhino population, to categorically deny trophy hunting permits to all Vietnamese in 2012.
involved in wildlife trafficking limit regionally and nationally based law enforcement
Vietnam-bound rhino horn were seized, a
and prosecute the key network middlemen,”
stockpile worth a baffling amount on the black
the report says. “As a result, trying to address
market.
transnational rhino horn trafficking networks
Rhino horn had fetched as much as US$60,000 per kilogram in recent years. The NGO reports that some Vietnamese demand exists for rhino horn, but much of what enters and is sold in the country ends up in the hands of a Chinese customer.
reliable smuggling cooperator: Vietnam.
China,” said Nga Nguyen, Communication Public Awareness & Demand Reduction Program Supervisor with Education for Nature—Vietnam (ENV).
It’s difficult to know exactly, but the report
However, “it’s hard for criminal[s] to get into
alleges hundreds of rhino horns arrive in
China through airport custom. So Vietnam is
Vietnam every year on their way to China, as
the transition place, the custom here is corrupt
much of half of the total black market supply.
enough for all the illegal goods to just easily get
by animal rights-cum-data analytics firm
“The transnational organised crime networks
authorities’ abilities to effectively investigate
“Illegal rhino horn trade’s main market is in
Of 85 seizures of animal contraband recorded
the law-enforcement bodies that police them.
Between 2009 and 2016, 466 kilograms of
of the blame on a neighbouring enabler and
A Coveted Object
activity unbound by political boundaries unlike
into Vietnam and be transported to China by land through borders.”
C4ADS, 18 were destined for Vietnam making
Nguyen’s claim is echoed by intelligence
the country the third-highest trafficker of illicit
gathered in the Elephant Action League’s report,
rhino horn behind Mozambique and China, the
which called corruption among governments
country of destination for the bulk of the illegal
mentioned in the report “rampant” and
rhino horn supply traded around the world.
“substantial”.
in isolation from within rhino range states or destination countries is ineffective” and inefficient. That’s the very opposite of the crime networks they are tasked with quelling. They “are everything that the government bureaucracies and law enforcement agencies rallied against them are not,” the report plainly states. In comments she said represent her own views rather than that of her organisation, Nguyen said authorities have grown too cosy with the illegal trade because “they love money more than they love animals”, a barbed comment alluding to the bribery and corruption alleged in the Elephant Action Network’s report. “They care more about their own benefit and right than the animal’s right,” she said. The Vietnamese rhinoceros became extinct in 2010 when the last one was killed in Cat Tien National Park, an ecological reserve close to Tan Phu in south Vietnam. There are fewer than 30,000 rhinos remaining worldwide. The report also documents Vietnam’s growing
In 2015, of 59 smugglers arrested of Asian descent, the largest share, 35, were Vietnamese nationals. 20 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
“Even when governments and their
presence as a customer as well as a transit
representatives are committed to tackling
point for the rhino horns. That has only grown
poaching and trafficking, their strategies are
recently in spite of medical evidence summarily
health FEATURE
As late as 2013, VICE had published a gawky, Hemingway-esque piece plainly titled “I Ate and Drank Cobra in Vietnam’s Snake Village”.
rejecting all claims of rhinoceros products’ alleged healing power.
Questionable Healthcare Demand reportedly spiked in 2011 when an unnamed government official was rumoured to
“Feel like swallowing a snake’s still-beating
have been cured of his cancer from ground rhino
heart? Le Mat (a village about five kilometres
horns, a substance that is chemically identical
away from Hanoi’s Old Quarter) is the place
to human nails, researchers have determined
to go,” the author wrote, detailing a decadent
through extensive testing.
afternoon unscrupulously dining on exotic
Nguyen said the bogus health claims are rooted
reptiles.
in traditional Chinese medical practices, stories
More often than not, however, consuming
that the horn of a rhino can be used to cure a By Danny de Bruyne
person ailing from cancer or a hangover. There are also a number of wealthy Chinese who want a rhino horn as a status symbol. Both Vietnam and China are signatories to CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, a multinational agreement to fight endangered animal trade. They were among the 80 countries who signed the document before it was ratified in 1975.
In addition to being one of the largest and oldest animal rights covenants in the world, it is among the weakest.
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and the designation of animal management authorities. Rhino allies suffered a setback in April when South Africa legalised domestic trade of a stockpile of rhino horns, which authorities had acquired through either investigationrelated seizures or from ecological parks which
animals is not a feature of local or indigenous custom, but a sideshow created solely to entertain and coax money from foreigners too ready to believe a less developed nation still trafficks in outright barbarism as sport. With regards to the success of animal trade bans, there appears to be little change in the laws’ efficacy domestically.
surrendered them from dead rhinos to prevent
Of the 156 animal trafficking-related criminal
their circulation on the black market.
cases reported in Vietnam between 2014 and
However, the Elephant Action Group says no demand exists for rhino horns in South Africa, and those horns have instead been making their way to China through Vietnam. Maybe Vietnam’s comfort level and tolerance of illegal
2016, about 17.9 percent resulted in prison time, according to ENV’s August 2017 crime report. During a two-year period ending in 2013, the 177 criminal cases opened resulted in an arrest for 21.5 percent of complaints.
About 50 percent of the member states have
rhino horn trade is due to its amenability to the
The report emphatically states that clear
failed at least one of the treaty’s four basic
sale and consumption of other exotic animal
penalties, preferably lengthy jail sentences, are
requirements for members: laws against banned
products. Bear bile and snake hearts are, in
an obvious remedy for a would-be criminal’s
animal trade, consequent penalties for this trade,
some parts of Vietnam, treasured parts of
perception that their risk is negligible compared
confiscation laws governing seized specimens,
tourists’ experience.
to the rewards.
21
#iAMHCMC
Masking the Effects: Toxic Fumes Walk outside, and you’ll see them: face masks are used almost ubiquitously in an attempt to ward off the effects of pollution. But how effective are they? By Robyn Wilson Ho Chi Minh City is Vietnam’s largest and busiest city, with a population of 8.4 million at last official count. Motorbikes are by far the most dominant and easy means of transportation for the bulk of people, with over
But they actually offer little to no protection from harmful pollutants. “People think the cloth masks work, but they’re bad and do nothing,” says Tom Druk, founder of filtered mask manufacturer, Air Quality Blue. “The surgical masks aren’t doing a much better job because they don’t seal around your face
masks offer people “a false sense of reassurance”.
transportation, they are also seriously lowering
She says, “There is very limited evidence on
the city’s air quality.
the efficacy of cloth and surgical masks for this purpose. In particular, they have been found
air quality in HCMC was classed as ‘unhealthy’
to be poor against diesel combustion particles. Their effectiveness is variable and can provide a false sense of reassurance.”
Better Options
in the first quarter of 2017, compared with 32.12 percent for Q1 2016. Global air quality is measured daily through the air quality index (AQI) with extreme
Health issues like heart disease, strokes, asthma and cancer have all been linked with poor air quality.
found that in 2012, seven million people died
Hospitals, UK, adds that cloth and surgical
and Development Centre, 41.82 percent of the
carrying capacity of the system.”
A 2014 study by the World Health Organization
of cars in the city.
According to Vietnam-based Green Innovation
lungs, which gradually reduce the oxygen-
he explains. Dr Roma Patel of Nottingham University
Inconvenient Air Truths
pollutants can end up deep seated within the
and they don’t have the right type of filter,”
7.4 million bikes and a rapidly growing number
But while they are convenient means of
As Dr Patel explains, “Fine particles from
But there is a range of filtered face masks, like
as a result of air pollution exposure.
“Pollutants are damaging to our health both in the short and long term,” Dr Patel says. “The way we respond to them varies depending on our genetics and lifestyle. However, prevention is always better than cure, hence appropriate steps should be taken to minimise their impact on our health,” she adds. GreenID echoes this sentiment and stresses the importance of choosing the right type of face mask protection.
those from Mr Druk company’s AQ Blue in
Companies such as Mr Druk’s AQ Blue and
Vietnam and China.
US-based 3M sell disposable face masks in Vietnam. Typically, they can be used for around
values ranging from ‘good’ (0-50), through to
The masks work in a similar way to a magnet,
‘hazardous’ (301-500). The average hourly AQI
attracting pollutants to an electrostatically
in HCMC during Q1 2017 was 100.8, up from
charged filter and trapping more than 95
91.2 in Q1 2016 — a clear sign that air quality
percent of particles sized between 0.3 and
is worsening. Naturally, such conditions cause
2.5 micrometres—considered to be the most
There are also masks from companies like
many people to wear face masks in an attempt
dangerous particle size.
Vogmask and Respro. These are more expensive
to protect themselves.
“The particles coming out of the motorbikes are
30 hours, which Mr Druk estimates would last around two weeks in HCMC for the average commuter.
than disposable masks but are said to be effective for a longer time.
There are a variety of masks on the market but
mixed with some really nasty stuff like oil and
the cheapest and most widely used are the cloth
metals from the friction in the engine, carbon,
Whichever mask you choose, however, the
and surgical masks, which can be bought all
which you can’t see, and our masks protect
evidence seems heavily stacked up in favour of
over HCMC for as little as VND5,000.
against them,” he says.
filtered protection.
22 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
When Smoke Gets In Your Eyes The air quality in Saigon tends to flutter in and out of the unhealthy range and it doesn’t seem to be clearing out anytime soon.
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health FEATURE
by Sivaraj Pragasm
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What’s That Smell? However, air pollution isn’t just limited to
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factories and combustion. In September 2016, the Da Phuoc landfill, run by Vietnam Waste
Those who live in Saigon will agree that the air
Solutions Inc. (VWS), was caught in a stink
quality could be improved.
when it was found to have been illegally
Although the situation isn’t as bad as in Hanoi,
discharging sewage that exceeded safety limits.
the air quality reading still occasionally flutters
This ended up with residents in District 7 and
in and out of the unhealthy range and sometimes
neighbouring areas having to deal with a bad
even spikes into the hazardous range.
stench for a few months, which only got worse during the rainy season and reached unbearable
The Culprits According to IQAir, a Swiss company that specialises in air purifiers, the main causes of air pollution in Vietnam are traffic and industrial,
levels at night. The operator ended up getting fined more than VND1.5 billion (US$66,000), according to VNExpress. TRUST YOUR SKIN TO A
DERMATOLOGIST
Beyond Face Masks
handicraft and construction activities, with traffic accounting for 70 percent of pollution
Air pollution is anthropogenic and it affects the
in urban areas. The air that we breathe is laced
entire troposphere, meaning it’s man-made and
with carcinogenic substances.
something you can’t easily escape from.
According to research by the World Health Organization’s cancer agency and Yale University, Vietnam is among the top 10 countries in the world for air pollution.
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The first step is to limit the amount of exhaust fumes on the road by either carpooling, riding a bicycle if the journey is short or taking a bus.
Measuring It Air pollution consists of different components: oxides of nitrogen which consists of nitrogen
If you’re driving or riding a motorbike, ensure that your vehicle is well-tuned and maintained, change the oil and filters and check your tyre pressures and wheel alignment.
dioxide (NO2) and nitric oxide (NO); carbon
If you’re going to be stationary for a while,
monoxide (CO); sulphur dioxide (SO2); and
turn off your engine. Idling is just contributing
particulate-matter (PM), which includes particles
unnecessarily to the pollution.
that measure below 10 micrometres (PM10) and the more dangerous 2.5 micrometres (PM2.5)— dangerous because that’s small enough to bypass your body’s natural filtration system and end up deep in your lungs. (The diameter of a strand of human hair is 50-70 micrometres.)
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Other than the roads, you can also make a few adjustments to some of your daily tasks. Conserve energy by turning off your lights and electric appliances when not in use, opt for energy efficient light bulbs and appliances, use water-based or solvent free paints, and buy
Most PM2.5 particles are byproducts of organic
products that say “Low VOC”. Make sure all
compounds, combustion and metals, which
containers of household cleaners, chemicals and
mostly originate from industrial zones and
solvents are sealed, to prevent any of them from
exhaust fumes from vehicles.
evaporating into the air. 23
#iAMHCMC
HEALTH ADVERTORIAL
What it Takes to Heal a Heart Thousands of patients are treated at the Centre Medical International (CMI) every year, but they might not know that every time they get a checkup, they’re helping the Heart Institute save a life. Little Dang was born in 2016 to a young couple of the Stieng ethnic minority living in Binh Phuoc. As soon as he was born, doctors knew something was wrong; soon after, Dang was diagnosed with a common arterial trunk, a rare and fatal congenital heart malformation. Out of pocket, Dang’s operation would cost US$11,120—far more money than his two farmer parents could afford to pay. With the help of the Heart to Heart fund, health insurance and the Alain Carpentier foundation, the surgeons at the Heart Institute were able to perform the operation, saving Dang’s life.
Dang’s story is one of thousands in Vietnam.
1 Han Thuyen, D1 | +84 028 3827 2366 | info@cmi-vietnam.com | Mon - Fri, 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; Sat, 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Professor Carpentier and sent to France to train at
public in Ho Chi Minh City, was created with
the Hospital Broussais in Paris. When they came
the chief aim of helping fund the operations
back to Vietnam, they hit the ground running.
at the Heart Institute. If you go to CMI for a checkup or even the most ordinary medical
Since 1992, surgeons at the Heart Institute have operated on 22,500 hearts, giving preference to children with severe cases.
Help From All Directions
treatment, the profits from your bill are sent straight to the Heart Institute, where they will help save the life of a child in need. The financial help from CMI, in connection with the Alain Carpentier Fund and a specially created social department, has created a unique system designed to give help to as many children
Reports from the Cardiovascular Department
Often, the surgery itself is the easy part. It’s
as possible. Some 4,300 children have been
of the HCMC Pediatrics Hospital show that
finding the funding that’s more difficult. As
saved so far across the country—around 200
around 9,200 infants are born every year in
Mayte Pernas, the Senior Operations Manager
children a year.
Vietnam with a form a heart disease, and
at the Centre Medical International (CMI), said,
more than 3,000 of these are classified as life-
“The rate of these diseases is still the same over
threatening. With life-saving operations costing
the years, and the only thing that has changed
upwards of US$2,000, these conditions change
is that people now have more income to pay
the lives not only of the afflicted child, but the
for the operations.” While this might be true in
child’s family as well.
the country’s larger cities, there’s still no end to poverty in Vietnam’s rural countryside.
Identifying the Need
Providing top-tier medical treatment to some of the world’s most underprivileged civilians never gets easier, but thanks to Alain Carpentier’s world-class team, each year has seen a little more improvement. In 2017, for example, Pernas describes the Institute’s latest acquisitions: two high-tech operating tables
The median price for heart surgery is around
designed specifically for children’s bodies.
US$2,000, and for many households in
Completely remote controlled, these tables shift
The alarming amount of life-threatening cases
Vietnam, this is an annual salary several times
to allow surgeons to work at beneficial angles,
of heart disease impacting the lives of children
over. However, just as pressing: “If you don’t
resulting in even greater success and ease.
across the nation was something that famed
operate on them, they die.”
heart surgeon Alain Carpentier recognised immediately when he visited Vietnam in 1987, and so the Heart Institute was born. Officially opened in 1992 by Professor Carpentier and Dr. Duong Quang Trung, it was never just about saving lives—they wanted to build a foundation for a better future.
While a family of farmers might not have the money to pay for the operation, when a baby is born with a heart issue, time is of the essence.
As the Heart Institute grows, so the rate of infant deaths drops in Vietnam. The Ho Chi Minh City’s Pediatric Association
To grow up with a normal life, children must undergo surgery two to four weeks after birth.
announced that 10 years ago the rate of heart disease-related infant death was between 10 and 30 percent, while today it has dropped to 1 to 2 percent. Even so, the need for intervention has
An essential part of the plan was also to train Vietnamese cardiatric surgeons. Twelve
To help fund the Heart Institute, CMI, a
stayed the same. And this is at the heart of the
Vietnamese doctors were hand-picked by
comprehensive medical clinic serving the general
Heart Institute.
24 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
environment FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
#iAMHCMC
Water Wars: Pollution in Dong Nai The fight for clean water in Vietnam has been raging for decades. How does the country stand as industrialisation looms large? How do you get your water? Most likely, you buy it in a store or have it delivered to your house. Apart from Dalat’s spring water, no tap water in Vietnam is considered safe to drink, a condition common in Southeast Asia and developing countries in general. However, Vietnam’s current water situation has improved substantially.
sanitation average is 68 percent, while Vietnam’s is 78 percent; the regional water access average is 89 percent, while Vietnam’s is 92 percent. Vietnam has made 19 commitments over four separate resolutions, and the country is well
As Amy Keegan, the project lead on the online
on its way towards completing all within the
water accountability platform WASHWatch,
specified time frames. However, writes Keegan,
wrote in an email, “Since 2000, over 9.5 million
“The only WASH section of the goals that
people [in Vietnam] have gained access to clean
Vietnam is not going to achieve is hygiene due
water and over 15.8 million people have gained
to stagnation of access.”
access to decent sanitation.” Many of the people who benefited live in
Clean Water?
Vietnam’s rural community, where indoor plumbing can still be considered a luxury.
However, the fight for country-wide clean water and sanitation is far from over.
Much of the water and sanitation progress can be attributed to encouragement and funding from the United Nations. According to the
Reports show that industrial zones expel one million cubic metres of untreated sewage per day, which accounts for 70 percent of country’s daily industrial wastewater. As the vast majority of the tap water distributed in towns and cities comes from rivers along industrial zones, river contamination poses serious risks for almost everyone in Vietnam. People who live in southern Vietnam and the Mekong Delta region are most seriously affected. This environmental blight has been addressed, most notably in 2012 when the World Bank approved a US$50
Access to water is one thing; access to clean
million loan to build wastewater treatment
water is a different matter. Right now around
plants in eight industrial zones. No information
93 percent of the drinking water in Ho Chi
is available about their progress.
Minh City comes from two treatment plants on the Dong Nai River and Saigon River, while the remaining 7 percent comes from groundwater
A Closer Look
Chemical Buildup
sources polluted by seawater intrusion and chemical contamination.
Water pollution is a persistent and often fatal problem for both river and groundwater sources.
goals of the 2010 Human Right to Water and
Further news was announced in April of this year that 30 of the 32 industrial zones on the Dong Nai River have water treatment plants, and together they can treat 135,000 cubic metres of the 96,000 cubic metres of wastewater produced daily by these plants.
These facilities do help, but news of their construction runs in tandem with reports that the Dong Nai River still faces large amounts of chemical contamination.
Sanitation resolution, which was resubmitted
Tests done by the Vietnam Institute of
during the 2015 UN conferences, 17 goals and
Biotechnology in 2009 showed high levels of
169 targets are to be achieved by 2030 to ensure
E. coli in Vietnam’s drinking water, and some
that clean water and access to proper sanitation
samples contained ammonia levels 6 to 18 times
is available for everyone on the planet.
higher than the allowed level.
So, how is Vietnam holding up to these goals?
Another test by the Ho Chi Minh Health
According to WASHwatch, well overall.
Department in the same year found arsenic
“Vietnam has made tremendous progress with
levels to be higher than acceptable standards
WASH access over the past few decades and
set by the World Health Organisation; bottled
And with chemical pollution looming large,
is above the regional average for East Asia
water was found to contain bacteria, results that
we’re all currently facing the downsides of rapid
and [the] Pacific,” Keegan wrote. The regional
led to the closure of 38 water bottling firms.
industrialisation.
As Amy Keegan from WASHwatch wrote, “there is still work to be done.” Currently, 1 in 10 people still do not have access to water, and 1 in 5 people don’t have access to basic sanitation.
25
#iAMHCMC
education FEATURE
by Katie Rigney-Zimmermann
Mr & Mrs Brown Explore Project-Based Learning You probably remember making a science project or two in grade school. SSIS’s Katie RigneyZimmermann explains how projectbased learning takes this up a notch. The requirements for young people entering the workforce have changed over the years. Skills such as creativity, collaboration, leadership, communication, problem-solving and critical thinking are necessary for students to be competitive and successful. In order to prepare students for this, schools have begun to place more focus on many of these skills. This often means a change in how they deliver the content of their curriculum. When change happens, parents often struggle to understand, because it is different from how it was done when they went to school. One method that many schools are adopting is project-based learning (PBL). The following scenario highlights some of the confusion parents have.
Building the Volcano Mr and Mrs Brown come into an admissions office to discuss their son, Thomas, entering into grade 4. As they learn about the school’s curriculum, the admissions director might
mention that the school, like many others, has
Whereas, Mr. Brown’s volcano project was
adopted a way of teaching in elementary school
done for his science class in isolation. It did
called project-based learning.
not involve art or mathematics, and he was
Mr. Brown says, “What? How is this new? I did projects when I went to school. In fact, I remember making a volcano out of baking soda and vinegar in grade 3.” At this point, it is clear that the Browns have not quite understood the difference between doing projects and project-based learning. The
not solving any authentic problems; perhaps he worked with a partner, but they were most probably given a few options by the teacher on what kind of products they could create. There was no tie-in to any other subject areas and when asked, Mr. Brown cannot really even remember why he made the volcano.
Adapting to New Environments
chart below, adapted from eduadventures.com, helps clarify some of the differences. The admissions director then goes on to explain that in PBL, students are presented with an authentic and complex question, problem or challenge at the beginning of a trans-disciplinary unit. They gain knowledge and skills by working for an extended period to investigate and resolve the question, problem or challenge. This helps
Mr. and Mrs. Brown note that an additional and powerful benefit for expatriate children is that PBL allows them to make deeper connections to their host country than would be possible in a more traditional classroom setting, as this type of learning requires them to move beyond the classroom and go into the real world for authentic experiences.
students develop higher-level thinking skills.
For example, in grade 4, a traditional science
There are opportunities for the students to use
lesson would include themes of geography and
technology and develop 21st-century skills.
sustainability, an English lesson covers research skills and nonfiction writing and a PE lesson
PBL requires students to question, discover and analyse, and to create valuable learning experiences that will stay with them long after they leave the classroom.
might focus on outdoor games, and perhaps the students might construct a 3-D model to demonstrate their understanding of geography. In the project-based learning framework, students would be required to work in a team to investigate how the sustainability of culture is related to the
Project Is often completed alone
Project Based Learning
environment by creating a documentary, which would showcase their learning.
Requires team collaboration and teacher guidance
The students would learn about Vietnam and
Is turned in
Is presented to a public audience
the culture (science), they would conduct field
Lacks real-world context
Based on real world issues
Happens at the end of the learning
Learning occurs during the project
Teacher-directed
Student-directed
There is no room for reflection on learning during the project
Teachers and students reflect on the learning throughout the project
Is not relevant to student’s life
Is relevant to students’ lives or future lives
how the geography of our host country affects research on an aspect of Vietnamese culture, write a documentary script (English) and learn about traditional Vietnamese games such as Da Cau (PE). Here the learning takes place through
26 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
the project process and is not something added on at the end. At the end of their school visit, Mr. & Mrs. Brown are only disappointed that they cannot sign themselves up for grade 4.
EDUCATION ADVERTORIAL
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Fit for Life: The Benefits of Physical Education Being active as an adult usually starts with being active in school. Some children might prefer playing video games, but the Australian International School is working to change the sit-down culture. What do you need to live a healthy life? It’s no secret that physical activity is one of the cornerstones of wellbeing. What’s even more apparent is that to establish good habits into adulthood, it helps to start them young. According to the Physical Activity Council’s 2017 Physical Activity Council Report, around 80 percent of currently active adults had physical education (PE) classes in school, while almost 40 percent of inactive adults had no PE growing up. Childhood trends can lead to some serious outcomes later in life: lack of exercise has been linked to obesity, and leads to an increased risk of heart disease, diabetes, high blood pressure and many other ailments. Simply moving around as a child has tremendous benefits later on in life, and physical education classes in school are without a doubt the best way to solidify good habits at a young age.
However, how do teachers engage students in an environment that increasingly encourages sitting rather than moving?
Taking Culture into Account For Brandon Dewes, Head of PE at the Australian International School (AIS), teaching physical education classes in Ho Chi Minh City differs from his homeland in New Zealand mainly because of the interests of students— most likely affected by Vietnam’s hot climate. “Coming from New Zealand, it’s more of an outdoor environment,” he reasons. “Young people spend a lot of time outdoors, and we
Australian International School | 264 Mai Chi Tho, D2 | +84 28 3742 4040 | enrolments@aisvietnam.com | aisvietnam.com
has led to a recent rise in childhood obesity,
really driven academically, which is fantastic,”
the challenge for Dewes and the four other
he says.
PE instructors at AIS has become making physical activity fun and interesting, while also encouraging healthy habits that involve spending time outdoors (with plenty of water available!).
“But for us it’s reminding them that they still need to have a balance and to take time away from their study.” Although it might seem like taking time
For example, Dewes and his team have branched outside the traditional sports box to appeal to the widest group of students possible.
to play sports instead of study would be
Rather than just focusing on football, badminton
he says. Rather than take attention away
and basketball, Dewes says that most children
from academics, even minimal daily physical
like discovering games and activities they’ve
education actually refocuses attention.
never heard of before, like ultimate frisbee, cricket and hockey, along with swimming, a skill that will benefit them well beyond their school years.
counterproductive for high-achieving students, studies have shown that the opposite is actually the case. “I think it does a lot for young people just to help them clear their head a little bit,”
Physical activities, especially at a young age, do much more than just build muscle and stamina— it also strengthens leadership skills, teamwork capacities and communication and problem
As AIS’s Executive Principal Dr. Roderick
solving abilities. When you’re throwing around
Crouch notes, “Our PE program not only
a volleyball, for example, it’s all about lending
supports children developing healthy lifestyle
a helping hand—not standing out.
habits which benefit their learning, but also provides practical life skills, in that all children learn to swim.”
More than Just Exercise
To be successful after graduation, after all, teamwork is often as important as independent working. Brandon Dewes is currently on his third year at the Australian International School, and for him
In Vietnam, a country that places a high amount
it’s all about improving attitudes about physical
of emphasis on academic learning, physical
education. While there might not be as many
education can sometimes take a sideline. And
hiking trails in Ho Chi Minh City as in his native
Since young people in Vietnam aren’t generally
this perception is what Brandon Dewes has
New Zealand, he’s here to show kids that being
in the habit of daily physical activity, which
been working to alter. “Students [at AIS] are
active is easily done, and entirely beneficial.
have a lot of green spaces. You come here and it’s different.”
27
#iAMHCMC
food FEATURE
by Sivaraj Pragasm
Banh Mi vs. Big Mac: The Economics of a Meal Fast food chains have eyed the Vietnamese market for decades, but today we’re seeing some growing pains. What does it take to appeal to Vietnam’s palate?
restaurant chain in Asia, is doing well in Vietnam, and has opened 80 outlets nationwide since it first arrived in 1996, two-thirds of them in the last five years.
Its strategy is to appeal to the taste of locals, which is how it gained ground back in the Philippines. A larger part of its success, however, comes down to business acumen.
When American fast food giant Burger King first arrived in Vietnam in 2012, it had an ambitious US$40 million investment plan to open 60 restaurants nationwide. However, as of now, the chain has only 15
As it did in countries like The Philippines and
restaurants: seven in Hanoi and eight in Saigon.
China, Jollibee buys already-popular local and international brands with the aim to improve
Another American fast food chain, Subway,
them. At the end of 2016, Jollibee Foods entered
entered Vietnam in 2011 with a goal of 50
a joint venture with Viet Thai International
restaurants in Vietnam by 2015. However, at present there are only six outlets in Ho Chi Minh City. Other establishments such as McDonald’s, Lotteria and KFC have also endured slow starts and have missed their initial projections. The question is, how did these chains fare so well in neighbouring countries but somehow seem to struggle in Vietnam?
Subway vs. Banh Mi Vietnam has a strong food culture and a deep sense of pride in its own cuisine. It also has a significant gap between rich and the poor. Many Vietnamese get by on less than US$500 a month and things like expensive fast food comes across as a luxury, rather than a necessity.
After all, why would anyone spend VND120,000 on a sandwich at Subway, when you can easily get a similarly sized banh mi for VND12,000? Because of this, fast food restaurants were a novelty, a nice place to go “once in a while”
Big Mac vs. Pho
to create SuperFoods Group, which gained ownership of several other brands, such as Highland Coffee, Pho 24 and Hard Rock Cafe.
Misunderstanding Vietnamese taste buds plays a role too. “Western places appeal to families, but the problem is once the novelty has worn off local people would prefer more Asian choices,” Katrin Roscher, a researcher at Decision Lab, said in a Forbes article. “This
South Korea’s Lotteria entered the fray in the late ’90s. After a slow start, it managed to find its footing and saw a spike in sales after 2013 and is now the leading chain with over 200 restaurants in more than 30 provinces and cities.
is because Western-style food is seen as bland
For both these chains, affordability works in
in comparison to local fare which is heavy on
their favour. They are expensive, but not as
spice and herbs. Not to mention sugar, salt and
expensive as a Western chain.
MSG.” According to Nguyen Manh Tu, business
The Economics of a Meal
development director of Blue Kite Food and Beverage Services Company Ltd., the owner of
Jollibee, Lotteria and KFC were the pioneers
Burger King’s local franchise, fast food chains
of fast food in Vietnam. They also all suffered
need to adjust their menus and strategies.
losses in their initial years and did not see any
This is why KFC adopted combo meals with
quick growth until 2012.
rice and fried chicken, an alien concept in the
The period between 2012 and 2015 was seen as
West. The inclusion of rice was followed by
the golden era, when KFC opened 40 new stores
other fast food chains, including McDonald’s,
and Lotteria opened 70. The market has cooled
which also started offering banh mi. Filipino fast
as the economic cycle dipped, and newer players
food brand Jollibee went one step further and
like McDonald’s and Texas Fried Chicken have
incorporated fish sauce in its chicken marinade.
been unable to resuscitate it.
The Asian Connection
As long as a meal at a Western fast food chain
instead of an alternative option, which is
sells for four times the price of a plate of com tam, and as long as a street stall is a five-minute
what these chains had initially intended
Although Western fast-food giants are
walk away, fast food restaurants in Vietnam
on becoming.
struggling, Jollibee, considered the biggest
will remain a novelty.
28 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
recipe of the month
Golden Spoon Awards
#iAMHCMC
Serves: 5 Cooking time: 2 ½ hours Difficulty: Medium Ingredients • 800g squab (2 birds) • 400g sticky rice • 100g flat, young rice • 200g finely grated coconut pulp • 200ml lukewarm water • 50g pork floss • 50ml cooking oil • 2g pepper • 5g caster sugar • 2g salt • 5ml soy sauce • 100g shallots • 10g garlic
Pan-Fried Squab with Crispy Sticky Rice During the 2013 Golden Spoon Awards the cuisine masters at Top Chef Restaurant in Hanoi prepared this lovely dish. Inspired by the nostalgia of a traditional charcoal stove, the delicately scorched sticky rice will create good memories for you too.
Directions 1. Prepare the Ingredients
3. Process the Squab
4. Bake the Rice
Rinse the sticky rice well and soak in lukewarm
Remove the leg bone of one squab. Mince
Put a portion of the steamed sticky rice into a
water for four to five hours. Clean the squab
the remaining parts of the squab, including
cast-iron baking pan, press until thin, and bake
and set aside to dry. Mince 20g of shallots.
the meat, bone and skin, together with 10g
in the oven on low heat for 30 minutes until the
Thinly slice the remaining shallots and fry till
of minced shallot.
rice is crunchy and brown.
Marinate this with 1g pepper, 1g salt and 2g
5. Mix the Rice
browned. Finely mince the garlic. Pour 200ml of lukewarm water onto the grated coconut, then squeeze to collect the coconut milk.
2. Steam the Rice
sugar for 15 minutes. Cut the other squab in half, or keep whole if preferred. Marinate the squab in 3g sugar, 1g pepper, 5ml soy sauce, 10g minced garlic and 10g
Drain the soaked sticky rice. Mix in 1g of salt and steam the rice for about 15 minutes, until the rice grains look clear. Spoon the coconut milk over the rice and stir so the rice absorbs the coconut milk evenly. Cover the steamer and cook for an additional 30 minutes.
minced shallot for 15 minutes. Heat 10ml of cooking oil in a pan, stir-fry the minced squab meat until cooked; taste for flavour then put in a bowl. Add the remaining 40ml of cooking oil into
Mix the remaining rice with the stir-fried squab and half of the fried shallots.
Presentation Arrange the sticky rice on a serving dish. Spread the rice-and-squab mixture and top with the pork floss and the remaining half of the fried shallots.
Once the sticky rice is soft and thoroughly
the pan and fry the remaining squab until
cooked, add the flat rice. Stir thoroughly and
cooked and browned. Chop the squab into
Serve together with the fried squab and garnish
steam for five more minutes.
bite-sized morsels.
with chili slices and soy sauce. 29
#iAMHCMC
real estate FEATURE
by Robyn Wilson
Distant Dreams? The Construction of Thu Thiem Market Stagnation
Developers have big dreams for District 2’s Thu Thiem region. But challenges are putting a damper on their plans.
CBRE Vietnam senior director Dung Duong echoes Mr Wilson’s sentiments and adds that developers are waiting to see whether the market
It had been earmarked as Ho Chi Minh City’s
picks up before committing to new schemes.
next urban area; a new and exciting place for locals and expats to work in and call home,
“A lot of developers are being cautious about
but over 20 years since its conception, the
whether they should develop right now or if
Thu Thiem development zone is still waiting to
they should wait for another few years when
take off.
demand increases. Right now, they are not convinced the demand in the market place is
Instead, construction diggers pepper what is
strong enough to develop new projects.”
largely an empty plot of land, and the numerous office and residential buildings that had been
She explains that limited land supply in District 1
hotly anticipated are yet to be seen.
is pushing up land prices across the river in Thu By Giang Dong Du
So, why has construction at Thu Thiem so far
Thiem, which is also having a hand in putting investors off.
failed to boom? And what is in store for this
“Development zones were all held to high parts
key development zone?
of the land with all sites to be elevated for sea-
“The problem here is the developers themselves
level rise and storm conditions.”
and whether or not they have the capacity to
Prized Property? Located across the Saigon River, Thu Thiem is a 657-hectare site on the edge of District 2 and opposite District 1. Planning for the site began as early as 1996, with hopes that its strategic location would enable it to become HCMC’s next central business district, but it wasn’t until 2003 that
But it has been over 10 years since the Sasaki masterplan was conceived, during which time climate change has worsened, so could Thu Thiem’s already flood-prone land be facing fresh challenges? Lawrie Wilson, a director at architect and planner, Hansen Partnership, says it is possible.
US architect Sasaki was appointed to develop
“The problem is that the masterplan was done
the masterplan for the area.
before climate change started to become really
Since then, only a few schemes have been
bad,” he says.
completed, including one mixed-use plan and
“[Developers] may well be building or planning
a handful of infrastructure projects to improve
to build at levels of what were known as the
connectivity to the area.
flood-levels at the time but these may have
A former wetland, Thu Thiem’s naturally soft and flood-prone land is no doubt a challenge
develop. The land prices are very high and unless you have a very good financial capacity, you cannot develop in that area.” So, with a number of challenges surrounding Thu Thiem, what will happen next? Dung Duong predicts that a development boom in the area won’t really take off for another 10 years:
By 2020, you will see the area taking shape but to see the full picture and to make it a very viable area to live and work within, I think we have to wait another 10 years until 2025 to 2027.
increased remarkably due to climate change
However, she believes this delay is not to be
considerations.”
viewed negatively and says investors are right to be cautious.
to build on—something Sasaki had to take into
Wilson says that evolving issues around climate
consideration when creating its masterplan.
change are no doubt being taken into account by
“Over the last two years, the HCMC market has
investors and developers at present, although he
welcomed a huge number of residential supply
adds that flooding could be one of the reasons
into areas like District 2 and District 7, so the
they are holding back from developing in the
market now needs some time to absorb it.”
Sasaki principal Dennis Pieprz, who worked on the project, explains, “Our masterplan called for protecting the wetland zones and integrating a significant water management
area.
Until then, future residents and workers of Thu
system to create a comprehensive approach to
A more likely delay, however, is down to market
Thiem will have to sit tight and wait for this
the site condition.
conditions, he says.
development zone to slowly evolve.
30 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
HEALTH ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
An Expat’s Guide to Healthcare in Vietnam Living in a faraway place, it is essential for expats to know about healthcare service to protect themselves. Earlier this year, when Vietnam expatriate resident Kristopher Munn developed polyneuropathy, a debilitating nerve disease resulting in weakness, numbness and burning pain, his first thought was understandable: go to the hospital and fix the problem. With an ongoing disease like this, contracted in Vietnam, this might be more easily said than done.
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After all, Vietnamese hospitals do not have
Although small, private, international and
that you and your family are in good hands—no
a sterling reputation. Overcrowding is still
specialist clinics exist in Ho Chi Minh City,
matter where you are in the world.
an issue, and this means doctors are usually
the bill at the end of your check-up will most
overstressed and overworked. This, mixed with
likely be expensive, compared to a Vietnamese
the fact that the medical facilities themselves
clinic. So how do you get the best quality of
often leave a lot to be desired, makes for an
care at the best price?
understandably reticent patient. Kristopher Munn, however, was covered. When he moved to Vietnam back in 2010, he signed up for Liberty Insurance on the advice of a friend, and this advice paid dividends. As soon as Munn was diagnosed, he was flown to Singapore’s Mount Alvernia Hospital, where he received top-of-the-line medical treatment through coverage from Liberty.
“I am absolutely satisfied with [the] service of Liberty,” Munn nodded. “It helped me ease my mind when dealing with sickness.”
Individualised Coverage for Expats
Vietnam and abroad. When expatriates decide to settle in a new country, health is usually front of mind. What are the services like? Will they find a doctor who will understand their preexisting condition? What if they get in an accident and can’t communicate with locals for help? It’s even more urgent to answer these questions
Insurance are your advisors. The Liberty representatives in Vietnam know the country and the healthcare system inside-out. No matter
Liberty Insurance, an American company with 10 years of experience in Vietnam, has noted these problems and created medical coverage designed to suit the expat lifestyle.
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For example, how about international coverage?
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or Thailand, chances are Liberty Insurance will
tumour and started his rounds of chemotherapy.
literally have you covered. Packages extend far beyond just natural diseases and will help you with accidents and medical examinations, in Vietnam as well as abroad.
Every Step of the Way
you came to Vietnam alone, but signing up for Liberty’s insurance plan guarantees you some close healthcare confidants. Dan, another Liberty customer, experienced this
Dan couldn’t speak Vietnamese, and when his health needs changed, his medical team connected with a doctor at a public hospital, who couldn’t speak English. And this is where Liberty goes above and beyond. They made sure Dan had all the information he needed and made sure he was comfortable, every step
As an expat in Vietnam, what do you need Kristopher Munn’s story is like many others in
Perhaps most importantly, the agents at Liberty
of the way, even at the hospital.
most? Part of the Liberty Insurance package in Vietnam includes medical check-ups, vaccinations and treatments up to VND2.2
With Liberty, healthcare isn’t a problem in Vietnam, it’s a solution.
billion (US$96,800). Even better, this plan will take care of surgical
Liberty Insurance (Vietnam) is a part of Liberty Mutual Insur-
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ters in Boston, USA. Liberty offers a wide range of personal in-
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on-the-spot emergency treatment will ensure
ance, a global multinational insurance group with headquarsurance products (car, motorbike, travel, house, health...) and corporate insurance (property, personal accident...). Currently, Liberty is giving free gifts and insurance worth up to VND3.5 million for new purchase of health insurance via http://www. libertyinsurance.com.vn or hotline 1800 599 998 (free call).
31
#iAMHCMC
Art FEATURE
by Jesús López-Gomez
A Matter of Black and White Picture Perfect Community
Digital cameras have cornered the photography market, but Pham Tuan Ngoc still finds value in doing things the traditional way.
Saigon is home to an active group of film photography enthusiasts, artists who hang out at Darkroom Coffee in District 3 on Ngo Thoi Nhiem Street, or Crop Lab in Phu Nhuan
On the third floor of Ga Muoi Chin, a
District on Huynh Van Banh Street. Both offer
District 2 coffee shop, sits NoirFoto, a seven-
their darkroom services for photographers
month-old photography business operated by
who need a place to take their finished roll.
film aficionado, photographer and instructor
Pham said the film photographers he knows are
Pham Tuan Ngoc. It’s there he does much
working in either Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi.
of his work, photography that’s particularly strong in portraiture, but he has also worked at
Pham is different in that he focuses exclusively
weddings and even with children (sometimes his
By Pham Tuan Ngoc
own five-year-old daughter). He not only works his private art practices but also trains other aspiring film photographers. He has trained 10 new Saigon film photographers since he opened in April.
“I believe film has a unique characteristic,” Pham said.
on black-and-white film. The classes he teaches are for shooting monochromatically.
of users started within the past five years. This
His client work is also done in black-and-
year, the Consumer Electronics show, an annual
white. There’s a freedom in black and white
US tech showcase that is usually the place to
film that isn’t there for colour photography,
find out about the newest televisions and video
specifically in the development process, Pham
game consoles, was taken by surprise with a
said. Colour photography is mostly developed
new product, the return of a colour film from
by a standardised machine process. Pham and
Kodak which was discontinued in 2012.
the photographers he trains personally handle everything that happens between the film
A masters degree holder in e-commerce, Pham
Why is anyone’s guess, but Pham might answer
started shooting film photography in Sweden in
that it’s due to film’s inimitable style, a way
2006. A few years before that, film had begun
of seeing the world that’s hard to capture on
its inevitable decline in popularity with the rise
an iPhone. When the elephant in the room is
Pham hopes to grow his business into a resource
of more user-friendly digital cameras and photo-
addressed with clients or students, how film
centre offering both knowledge and materials to
ready cell phones. Pham said the slide has been
compares to digital photography, Pham said
other film photographers. The black-and-white
marginal but consistent, a decline of about 2
he doesn’t try to proselytise. Instead, he lets the
emphasis will remain the focus of his services.
percent each year since the early noughties.
work speak for itself.
“I am trying to make and keep NoirFoto the
Then, something happened.
Bringing Back the Old
“One thing I do is encourage my client to see me working in the darkroom and even take part in making their own portrait,” taking the steps to bring the image to life in the multi-step
Reliable sales numbers are hard to come by,
development process, Pham said.
but film manufacturers claim they’ve enjoyed 5 percent growth in sales in the past few years. One film group claims a third of film photographers are under 35, and that 60 percent
32 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
leaving the camera to the freshly made wet image pinned and drying.
best place for [a black-and-white] photo lover,” he said. “And it will be the one stop solution for everything [related to black and white] photography: studio, equipment, chemical, material, model, class, tutorial…” Pham will offer another group photo class in
“If I have to explain, I will say that it is different, not better or worse. They will either love or hate it,” he said.
the near future, but invites anyone interested to contact him directly to arrange private, oneon-one instruction.
TRAVEL ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
Eden Resort Phu Quoc
Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Province | 0297 398 5598 | reservations@edenresort.com.vn | edenresort.com.vn
Experience the beautiful beaches of Phu Quoc courtesy of Eden Resort. You’ll thank us when you get there. Review by Keely Burkey
Beachy Bungalow
umbrella oasis. I indulged in some light reading Once I received my key I headed to my beach bungalow. As I walked along the outdoor path and admired the greenery surrounding the
First Impressions
buildings, I saw workers doing some construction and renovation. Since I moved to HCMC I’ve become accustomed to the sound of hammering
I landed on Phu Quoc around midday and
and saws, but hoped it wouldn’t start at 7 a.m.
looked around. I was in love already: the sky
the next morning (thankfully it didn’t).
was bright and the weather hot and humid—a typical day in Southern Vietnam. It was easy to find the complimentary shuttle service that Eden Resort Phu Quoc provides for its guests, and the drive to the resort was pleasant. I was able to look out the window and enjoy the island sights, which were so different from the whirling cityscape of Ho Chi Minh City.
I neared my beach bungalow and breathed deeply: there was that inviting smell of sea air. Indeed, the bungalow was right next to the beach and had an exceptionally beautiful view. The rooms were large and spacious, and the decorations were subtle, retaining the ecofriendly vibe I had noticed in the lobby. I put away my things and saw that there was an
I knew immediately that this stay would be a
outdoor bathroom—a nice touch, although the
wonderful change of pace.
humidity near the sea did cause a bit of rust to
When I arrived at the Eden Resort, I saw that it was aptly named: it truly was a green oasis. This was a resort that valued the quality of its
After a bit of waiting, I was able to grab my own
gather around the tap.
Surf’s Up
and general relaxation and headed to the ocean. The water was warm and the sand was soft: absolute perfection. It was quite a different experience from some of the other beaches I’ve been to in Vietnam, which sometimes have problems getting rid of the trash. Here the coast was clean and the water was clear.
Drinks on the Beach After dinner at the Strelitzia, one of Eden Resort’s two restaurants, I headed to the Malibu Beach Bar, where I rounded off my night with a tropical nightcap at a beautiful, eco-friendly repurposed table. I chose a classic margarita, always my drink of choice, and mingled with the other bar patrons. I learned that the rooms of the hotel were just as nice as the bungalow, although one guest mentioned plumbing issues. Another guest talked about the different destinations on Phu Quoc (his favourite was a local pearl farm in the nearby Duong To Village). I replied that I didn’t want
landscaping. When I approached the lobby, I got a nice surprise: there were recycled decorations
Although the room was beautiful, the pull of
to rent a scooter for just one day, and he said
like driftwood accents. I mentioned this to the
the ocean was too great to resist. I threw on my
he hadn’t—he has simply gone on one of the
concierge, and she told me that all the lights in
bathing suit and headed outside. The beachfront
day-long “Seawalker” tours Eden Resort offers,
the swimming pools were LED-powered as well.
was a popular spot for the other guests, and for
which he really enjoyed. I found out that Eden
I’ve always been eco-conscious, so it was nice
good reason. While the beach was lined with
also offers some daily fishing and snorkelling
to see a 4-star resort with a similar mindset.
umbrellas and chairs, it was a bit difficult to
trips, which are less expensive than other tours
It really made the resort seem down-to-earth
find one that wasn’t marked with towels and
on the island. This was welcome news, but
rather than stuffy or overly fancy, like some
bags. Once a free umbrella opened up, it was
unfortunately my flight was set to depart before
other high-rated resorts I’ve visited.
snatched almost immediately by another guest.
noon the next day. There’s always next time. 33
#iAMHCMC
Spirited Away: Dalat’s Bo Bla Waterfall Tom Divers, author of travel blog Vietnam Coracle, journeys to the Di Linh Plateau in search of a forgotten natural attraction. An abandoned waterfall in the Central Highlands, Bo Bla comes to life after dark.
prettiest and most impressive cascades in the
trinket shops. Bo Bla, however, which is a good
Central Highlands.
90-minute drive southwest of Dalat, is one of the most attractive cascades in the region, and,
But the tacky tourist infrastructure, once built to accommodate and entertain the crowds, has been abandoned. “Two more kilometres on the right”, says a kindly older woman when I stop to ask
theme-park attendants, and the transparent
for directions. “One hundred metres on the
forms of spirits and apparitions flood in from
right”, says a young man, cigarette dangling
the jungle to indulge in a night of bathing and
from his mouth. “It’s back that way, about two
cleansing in the mineral-rich waters of the
minutes”, says a girl in blue uniform on her
cascade.
way home from school. That’s the thing about
at this beautiful but decaying waterfall-tourist-
attraction, it’s now been completely abandoned and left to decay. And this, in my opinion, is a good thing.
Lanterns, floating in the mist, are lit by ghostly
At least, that’s what I’d like to think happens
although it was turned into a Disneyfied tourist
Bo Bla Waterfall: everyone knows where it is, but no one actually seems to go there anymore.
The abandoned theme-park feel adds to its appeal: there’s something of the magic and mystery of Spirited Away about this place, and all the kitsch decorations look much better with age and neglect. The concrete elephants, for example, bathing in the pools of water at the bottom of the falls,
park in Lam Dong Province south-west of Nha
The entrance to Bo Bla, when I eventually find
cease to be tasteless man-made additions; they
Trang. In my imagination, Bo Bla is the nightly
it, is an overgrown parking lot by the side of
are, in fact, petrified gods, turned to stone (well,
scene of Vietnam’s own Spirited Away-style
National Highway 20, the main road between
concrete) during the daylight hours, only to
bathhouse.
Saigon and Dalat, near the town of Di Linh.
come alive again during the nights: like Bilbo’s
In fact, there’s a sign in big capital letters
three trolls in Tolkien’s The Hobbit.
An Ancient History Not long ago, Bo Bla Waterfall was a major draw for domestic tourists. But, for several years now, it’s been left to decay, and the
announcing ‘BOBLA’, but it’s hidden behind weeds and epiphytes that have formed a web of roots around the lettering.
Off the Beaten Track
site is rapidly being reclaimed by the jungle.
At one time, the parking lot would have been full of coaches, disgorging hundreds of visitors; now it’s home to a healthy population of birds, frogs and cicadas. A brick-and-concrete kiosk, designed to look like a log cabin, lies empty, full of broken glass and bat guano. Some half-
Crashing 50 metres over a rocky ledge, splitting
Many of the waterfalls in Lam Dong Province,
hearted attempts at graffiti decorate the walls.
a coffee plantation in two and falling into a
especially those close to Dalat, have been
Beyond the entrance gate (entrance is free these
misty abyss where ancient gnarled trees reach
turned into kitsch, heavily commercialised
days) a moss-covered pathway of paving stones
up as if trying to catch a breath, it is one of the
tourist attractions, overrun with visitors and
leads under a dense canopy of tropical trees.
34 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Tom Divers
The Falls “Drink some rice wine with us!” shout a couple
Forest commodities, such as exotic woods, wild animals and rhino horn, were gathered to pay this royal tax. Most precious of all was elephant ivory.
of teenagers smoking and drinking under the
One day, a local man came across a pair of
trees.
enormous ivory tusks at the top of the falls.
I decline, saying I’m headed for the falls, and
The Cham king was so impressed that he named
they point me down the path into the valley.
the waterfall “Bo Bla”, meaning ‘elephant ivory’
Along the way, I encounter several other groups
in the local K’Ho dialect.
#iAMHCMC
The dilapidation of the tourist infrastructure here is in stark contrast to the vitality of the falls themselves, which pound the volcanic rocks on the riverbed as they have done for millennia. Bo Bla waterfall is on National Highway QL20. It’s 6km west of Di Linh, 80km southwest of Dalat, and 215 km northeast of Ho Chi Minh
of local teens, all crouching in quiet, secluded
Many of Vietnam’s natural attractions have
City. Saigon-Dalat buses can drop you at the
corners.
folktales related to them and tend to be a
entrance to the falls.
Bo Bla’s state of abandonment appears to have
mixture of history and myth.
made it popular for Di Linh’s bored youth,
Each time the story was told to me, people
getting kicks from their drug of choice or
prefaced it by saying, ‘Nguoi ta noi…..’ (‘People
‘courting’ in the bushes.
say.....’).
The pathway, strewn with fallen leaves and
Spurred on by the dramatic noise of the waterfall
streaked with mud, drops steeply down through
thundering in the valley below, I walk faster,
a long tunnel of foliage. It’s so unkempt that
ignoring the perils of wet mud, and trying not
the path often appears to peter out completely
to notice the carelessly discarded picnic trash
into the jungle.
strewn over the pathway and left on the stone
Spray from the falls lifts up from the valley
tabletops dotted among the trees.
Or, if coming from Dalat, take one of the Dalat-Di Linh-Bao Loc local buses. From Di Linh you can find a xe ôm to take you the last 6km to the falls. Excellent-value accommodation is nearby in the form of the secluded and peaceful Juliet’s Villa Resort (US$20 a night).
About the Author:
floor, making the humidity unbearable. Walking
But even the litter is starting to fade back into
Tom is the author of independent travel
in my old flip-flops I may as well be wearing
the jungle as nature reclaims this scenic area.
website Vietnam Coracle. Drawing on
skates, and it’s not long before I fall on my backside in the mud. The waterfall, not yet visible, is already audible.
And it’s easy to forget the trash when you see the waterfall: a perfect, vertical ribbon of white water flowing over the top of a small opening in the foliage and falling in velvety streaks into a
People Say...
circular lake below, creating a blizzard of white spray that hangs in the lush valley.
Many centuries ago, this region was part of
A wide pool at the base of the falls is good for
the Kingdom of Champa. The Cham officials
bathing, watched over by the surreal concrete
demanded local people pay tribute to the king.
elephants, some with broken tusks.
11 years’ experience travelling all over the country, his free online guides aim to give travellers the confidence to explore Vietnam independently, without joining a package tour. He focuses on less-trodden areas, encouraging readers to go beyond the destinations that make up most of the standard south-north itineraries. You can read more about the places mentioned in this article at www.VietnamCoracle.com.
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