BY LOCALS, FOR LOCALS
12/2017
JAN The Notably Slow Maiden Voyage of Hanoi’s Bus System Fails to Impress Residents
2017
APR Saigon Installs "Smart Trashcans" on Nguyen Hue to Encourage Recycling and Increase Plants on Walking Street
in
JAN Following the Chronic Problems of AAG, Vietnam Installs New Internet Cable That’s Supposedly Twice as Fast
FEB Four Vietnam Environment Officials Punished by Demotion and Department Transfer over Formosa Scandal
FEB Hanoi’s New Code of Conduict Would Publicly Shame Those Who Misbehave by Spitting, Cursing and Other “Uncivilised” Behaviour
MAR
FEB Vietnamese Physicists Publish First Scholarly Article in International Journal, Physical Review Letters, After Decade of Research
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FEB Vietnam’s Automobile Market Grows 27.1%, Making it Second in Growth Only to Singapore
Saigon named 48th out of 50 Most Beautiful Cities in the World by CNTraveler
APR Several Parts of HCMC, Southern Provinces Flooded After “Unprecedented” Unseasonal Rain; Water Level Reaches 59.6mm in Some Areas
MAY
MAY
Nguyen Thien Nhan, Educated in former East Germany and US, Appointed as Head of Saigon After Dismissal of Dinh La Thang Over Business Violations
People’s Court of Go Dau District, Tay Ninh Jails Six Dog Thieves for a Combined 30 Years after Large-Scale Dog Thefts
APR Ho Chi Minh City Government Signs Agreement to Publicly Display Air and Water Quality Data on LED Boards
APR
JUN
Mekong Delta’s An Giang Riverbank Collapses, Drags 16 Houses Underwater, None Injured
Despite Large-Scale Protests, Hanoi Revives Plan to Ban Motorbikes By 2030 Due to Crippling Traffic Congestion
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JUL Thanh Hoa Police Seize Nearly Three Tonnes of Illegal Elephant Ivory Hidden in Fruit Boxes on Way to Hanoi
AUG After a Four-Month Hiatus, Doan Ngoc Hai’s Sidewalk -Clearing Crusade Returns to District 1 as Hai Issues Parking Tickets, Citations to Sidewalk Offenders
JUL Vietnam, Partnering with Animals Asia, Vows to Shut Down Bear-Bile Farms, Used for Traditional Medicine, Rescue 1,000 Captive Sun Bears, Asiatic Black Bears
AUG
Major Governme Corruption Cr Nets Two High-Pr Officials, One A Year Running Abr
JUN Hanoi Runner Pham Duy Cuong Becomes First Vietnamese to Complete 42-Kilometre High-Altitude Everest Marathon in Nepal
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AUG Female Archer Chau Kieu Oanh Clinches Silver Medal in SEA Games Competition, Becomes First Vietnamese National to Earn Medal at the Annual Competition
SEP
NOV
Vietnam Spends US$11.8 Million Preparing for Dioxin Removal Near Former US Military Airbase in Dong Nai Province, with Help from International ODA
68 Dead, 34 Missing, 34,000 Homes Damaged as Northern Provinces Decimated by Worst Flooding, Landslides in Years
SEP
AUG
Major Government rruption Crackdown ets Two High-ProďŹ le ďŹƒcials, One After a ear Running Abroad
Record-Breaking Typhoon Doksuri Batters Central, Northern Vietnam, Leaves At Least 69 Dead, Called Most Powerful Storm in a Decade
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EDITOR’S NOTE
#iAMHCMC
EDITOR’S NOTE
By Locals, For Locals
SOCIETY FEATURE 7. An Eye to the Future: The End of the Ho Khau System
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES 9. How to Enjoy the Dry Season 10. Feel the Beat: Your Live Music Guide
FOOD AND DRINK FEATURES 13. Manically Organic 14. Can Vietnam Learn to Love Vino?
SHOPPING FEATURES 17. Fast Fashion, Big Money 18. Moto Dreams: What to Look for in a Bike
TRAVEL FEATURE 22. Camp of Approval
EDUCATION FEATURES 25. The Silver Bullet? Technology in the Classroom 26. Designing a Better Future
Happy Almost New Year! If you’ve spent the last year in Vietnam, I’m sure you’ll agree: a lot has happened in the past year, both good and not-sogood. Just check the first four pages of this edition—it’s been a wild ride. News and developments have cut across all sectors and industries in Vietnam, and why wouldn’t they? Given the country’s rapid sprint towards ubermodernisation, industries from entertainment to real estate are changing almost monthly. This is exactly what we wanted to focus on in this issue. As you might know, every month, #iAMHCMC revolves around a central theme of life in Saigon: in January we tackled entertainment, while February and March were all about business, and so on. At the end of the year, we had a complete, and memorable, panorama of what it’s like to call Saigon home. So why not celebrate this in December? As you flip through these pages, you’ll see that it’s divided into sections, each fronted by the covers our illustrator, Øyvind Sveen, made for us throughout the year. Each “chapter” includes new content at the start as well as a “greatest hits”, in which our team has chosen some of our favourite articles we’ve produced in previous issues. By placing the new and the old together, we hope to give you a complete overview of what’s going on in this glittering city. By the end of this issue, you’ll have an idea of what the year was all about, and what to expect in 2018. Best,
HEALTH FEATURES 29. Stay Healthy: Keep Informed 30. Food Machine: The Beginnings of Obesity in Vietnam
REAL ESTATE FEATURES 33. Bring on the Green: LEEDS Construction in HCMC 34. Tearing Down the House 35. Controlling the Flood: Affordable Housing in HCMC
WORKING FEATURES 37. Is Vietnam’s Silicon Valley Made of Lead? 38. Vietnam: Degrees or Career Education? 39. Culture Clash: Multinational Working
BUSINESS FEATURES
Keely Burkey
HAVE FEEDBACK? CONTACT ME AT KEELY@INNOVO.VN CEO Patrick Gaveau Co-Owner Benjamin Giroux Executive Assistant & HR Manager Thao Dao General Accountant My Nguyen Content Manager Keely Burkey
Production Coordinator Oanh Tran Marketing Coordinator Thomas Kervennic Digital Marketing Analyst Minh Tran Digital Marketing Assistant My Tran BD Manager Philippe Chambraud
41. The Year in Business 42. Dream Jobs
Writers Tran Thi Minh Hieu Kristian Goodchild Zoe Osborne Tom Divers Dao Van Hoang Hang Doan Frank B. Edwards Sr. Writer Jesús López-Gomez Copyeditor Rob van Driesum
Photographer Trang Hua Sr. Technical Officer Stefan Georg Sr. Developer Ai Nguyen Front Cover Øyvind Sveen Sr. Designer Tung Dinh Graphic Designer Tram Ky
E-NOVO CO., LTD
EVENT FEATURE 46. Spread that Cheer: Your Holiday Guide
RECIPE OF THE MONTH 44. Spring Rolls with Lotus Seeds
TRAVEL ADVERTORIALS 21. The Rule Breakers 6 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
42/37 Hoang Dieu, District 4, HCMC | +84 28 3825 4316 | sales@innovo.vn
END OF THE YEAR (nhiều tác giả)
Thanh Niên Publishing House 64 Ba Trieu - Hanoi - Vietnam | Tel: (+84 0 24) 3 943 40 44 - 62 63 1719 Publishing Liability: Director - Editor in Chief: Nguyen Xuan Truong | Editor: Ta Quang Huy License Info: Publishing Registration Plan No.: 40437-2017/CXBIPH/26-186/TN Publishing Permit No.: 794/QĐ-TN | Issued on 27 November 2017 | ISBN: 978-604-64-9228-3 5,000 copies printed at HCMC Nhan Dan Newspaper Printing Co., Ltd (D20/532P, Hamlet 4, Binh Chanh District, HCMC) No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.
SOCIETY FEATURE
by Tran Thi Minh Hieu
An Eye to the Future:
The End of the Ho Khau System Residence books are going digital in Vietnam, one more indication that the country is gearing up for a technology-driven future. Probably one of the most important decisions made by the Vietnamese government this year has been the promise to replace the old residence books and national ID cards with a new system, which consists of a personal identification number linked to a national database, making the identification information of any person accessible to all government agencies. This has been dubbed “a breakthrough in management mindset” by local media. The change was announced on 30 October when Resolution 112 was signed into effect by Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc. The Resolution seeks to simplify administrative procedures and documents regarding residency management, under the authority of the Ministry of Public Security (MPS). Through the use of the National Database of Residence, it should make things easier in eight areas: migration, businesses subject to MPS approval, such as house and office leasing, vehicles, government workers, social security policies including health insurance, fire prevention and fighting, national ID cards and residency registration.
Particularly, the abolishment of the paper residence books has received widespread attention and applause.
To prevent expectations from going overboard, the MPS held a media conference on 7 November to explain that the national database will not be ready until 2020, and will cost VND3 trillion (US$132 million) to build.
What is a Residence Book? Similar to other family register systems in East Asian and Southeast Asian countries, the Vietnamese hộ khẩu is a method to keep track of the population by issuing each family a residence book, with the permanent address and basic information of household members living at the same address. As such, all family members have to share one legal document as their proof of residence, which is required in many procedures. Changes to the information in the residence book, including births, deaths, marriages, divorces and moves, involve cumbersome processes. Take the example of Ms. Nghia, who became the head of a household in Hanoi after her husband passed away. When Ms. Nghia’s family recently moved from Thanh Xuan District to Dong Da District, she had to go through many doors over six months to make changes to the residence book in order to sell her old house and settle in the new one. Things are even
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more difficult for people from other provinces migrating to the city. For instance, Ms. Thuy, after getting married to a man in Saigon, had to register her address in the same residence book as her husband’s family, with written approval from the head of the household. If there are no relatives in the city, however, they have to apply for a temporary residence document showing their current address. Since residency documents are a prerequisite for recruitment, housing, education and social welfare, it has become a vicious circle for many families.
The Importance of Change The 12-digit personal identification number (PIN) was introduced in the Citizen Identification Law effective from 1 January 2016. This number includes coded information about gender and the year and place of birth. Each person will be assigned a PIN from birth to death. The PIN will be identical to the number displayed on the citizen identification card, issued from age 14, which will replace the old 9-digit ID card. The PIN is linked to the person’s information on the National Database of Residence, including their permanent and current addresses. According to Resolution 112, this will spell the end of residence books and temporary residence documents, once the national database and related legislations are completed.
Thirteen procedures dealing with the residence book, in particular, will be abolished. As Ms. Thuy observed, the resolution does not address people’s concerns with policies that tie their government-subsidised schooling and healthcare options to their permanent address. However, it shows that the Vietnamese government is open to change.
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AUG
OCT
OCT
Vietnamese Actress Vu Thu Phuong Shares Story of Harvey Weinstein’s Misconduct
Millionaire Dao Tong Tuyen Funds New Cultural Show in Hanoi, “The Quintessence of Tonkin”
NOV
NOV
Suspicions of PR Stunt Raised when Audience Member Arrested for Live Streaming “The Tailor”
Loosening Restrictions Leads to Casino Construction Boom
SEP Kong Director Hospitalised After Alleged Bar Fight in Saigon
Bui Vien Walking Street Officially Opens
ENTERTAINMENT in 2017
AUG Ariana Grande Cancels HCMC Performance Due to “Health Problems”
Sources: Saigoneer, Billboard.com, VnExpress, City Pass Guide, VietnamNet
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ENTERTAINMENT FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
How to Enjoy the Dry Season We hear this complaint often: there are hundreds of bars, restaurants and cafes in HCMC, but not much beyond that. It’s not true! You just have to know where to look. Here are our end-of-the-year recommendations, in honour of the end of rainy season.
Take a Day Trip Explore the Cu Chi Tunnels
Not the most original idea in the world, but still worth a visit. Although these tunnels have been slightly repurposed to fit larger frames, you’ll get a closer look at the everyday living conditions of thousands of people during the American War. How to get there: About 40km from the city centre, there are a few options: take one of the many tours offered through just about every travel agency in Pham Ngu Lau, or do it yourself by motorbike (it’ll take around two hours). Cruise the Mekong Delta
The region is more than 40,000 km2, so you’ll have to make a choice or two about where to go and what to do. For a relaxing bike ride and a leisurely nap in a hammock, check out Ben Tre, My Tho and An Binh Island. For city life on a smaller scale, there’s no better place than Can Tho. How to get there: We recommend the Phuong Trang bus line or, for the scenic route, pick a river cruise with the typical Mekong Delta tour package: the floating market, coconut candy factory and set lunch. Discover Monkey Island (Can Gio)
An underrated spot definitely worth a day visit. About 75km from HCMC, this is doable if you’re confident on your bike; be sure to have some
small change on you, as it does involve a ferry ride. The main point of interest here is definitely the mangrove island, which features a recreation of a Viet Minh army station and hundreds of incredibly social monkeys, just waiting to snatch your sunglasses. How to get there: If a motorbike is not for you, there are several tour companies for about US$50 for the day.
Family Fun
Give Back to the Community OK, not strictly an outdoor activity, but admirable nonetheless. Several organisations and institutions are always looking for help; although it certainly helps if you speak Vietnamese, for many it’s not a requirement. Here are some of our top choices: Helping Orphans Worldwide (HOW)
Experience Giang Dien Waterfall
Great for a family day with the little ones. Hidden away in Dong Nai, not many people know about this hidden gem. Here you can swim (or wade with a life jacket), kayak, bike, camp, lounge and generally just enjoy life. How to get there: About 50km from HCMC, it’ll take about an hour-and-a-half by car, twoand-a-half hours by bike. Be sure to save the directions on Google maps, as a lot of the drive is in the countryside, with limited reception. Have Fun at a Water Park
They have a Vietnam branch, Free Hugs Vietnam, that does great work with underprivileged children. They’ve been helping out the community since 2007. Check helpinghow.org. Thien Phuoc Orphanage
all the way out in District 12, gives orphaned children the love and care they need. About 60 children, most with severe disabilities, reside here, and Sister Kim, the organiser, is always looking for people to spend time with them. See english.thienphuoccharity.com. The Animal Rescue Service
HCMC has water parks aplenty. Head to Binh Duong to enjoy the sun at Dai Nam Van Hien, or slip and slide in District 11 at Dam Sen Water Park. In District 9, check The BCR Club, which features a large pool and a paintball and archery shooting range, or Suoi Tien Park, probably the most established amusement park in the city.
in District 2 holds two daily dog walks, and would love you to take part! With a morning walk and an afternoon walk, you can play with a pooch and get outside at the same time. Maybe you’ll even find the canine companion of your dreams.
Christmas time is here. We wish you a wonderful holiday season. May each day be filled with joy for you
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ENTERTAINMENT FEATURE
by Kristian Goodchild, Zoe Osborne and Jesús López-Gomez
Picture by Trang Hua
Feel the Beat:
Your Live Music Guide Whether you’re a DJ junkie, a clubbing fiend or a lover of live music, Saigon after-hours has a plethora of musical possibilities.
As a city that never sleeps, Vietnam’s commercial centre and one of Southeast Asia’s top backpacker hotspots, it’s no wonder that HCMC is home to such a diverse range of music venues and artsy people. No matter what your night-time music scene is, the city has something for everyone. Here are some of our top recommendations. Sax’n’Art 28 Le Loi, D1 | 028 3822 8472
If jazz is your weakness, and if a room with red wine, good people and cosy low lighting is your idea of a soothing evening, then the Sax’n’Art Jazz Club is definitely your kind of place. 10 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Come and tap along to the local band jamming on saxophonist Tran Manh Tuan’s charts (a fusion of contemporary jazz and traditional Vietnamese music), and get soulful with classics from the legendary Charlie Parker to jazz icon Sonny Rollins.
RockFanClub 25C Tu Xuong, D3 | 09 0531 6456
Two short blocks from the Acoustic Bar, the RockFanClub hosts Vietnamese rock bands with live music every night of the week. They specialise in a kind of loud, energetic rock played at full volume alongside a well-stocked bar.
Acoustic Bar 6E Ngo hoi Nhiem, D3 | 09 0378 7685
Hard Rock Cafe
Dimly lit, tastefully decorated and with enough instrumentation to power half an orchestra, Acoustic takes its sound very seriously—usually the sounds of quality top-40 covers. The talent saves the venue, and the cosy atmosphere and low seating is the perfect setting for some of the energetic acts.
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, D1 | 028 6291 7595
HCMC’s outlet of this well-known international chain is a favourite among expats and locals, and is our recommended go-to if you crave hearty Western meals and well-mixed house cocktails. A resident band plays nightly, along with occasional local and international guests.
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURE
for quality tapas, Spanish live music and reasonably priced European and South American wines. The bands play every day except Monday, and it’s always an exciting and lively affair.
for maximum effect. It also hosts an open-mic night on Tuesdays, a live band on Wednesdays and a jazz act on Thursdays.
Indika Saigon
3rd Floor, Apt 11, 63 Pasteur, D1 | 09 0390 0841
43 Nguyen Van Giai, D1 | 012 2399 4260
On Friday evenings, The Old Compass Cafe and Bar transforms from a quiet, classy lunch spot to a live music venue with a selection heavy in folk music and singer-songwriters.
One of Saigon’s newer venues, Indika is a delightfully weird bar and restaurant that offers a variety of live music experiences, with regular hosted jam sessions and acoustic performances. It has quickly become the hangout of choice for Saigon’s hip, creative, bohemian scene. Picture by Trang Hua
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Thi Bar Saigon
The Old Compass Cafe and Bar
Music there ranges from the quiet, reserved musical offerings of English writer and performer Claire Robbin to more lively rock and folk acts.
224 De ham, D1 | 028 2210 2929
Yoko Cafe 22A Nguyen hi Dieu, D3 | 09 0858 0198
Founded nearly two decades ago, Yoko is still one of Saigon’s most respected and established live music venues. Here musicians meet, perform and share their creative ideas. Most evenings, artists put their own twists on classic songs, but other nights Yoko plays host to international artists. La Fenetre Soleil 44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | 01 6658 2547
With an eclectic mix of genres set in a gloriously quaint, post-colonial restaurant, La Fenetre Soleil oozes class. Jazz, soul, relaxed piano covers and blues bands are the staple here, but the venue occasionally plays host to punk, indie and rap nights. The atmosphere is generally relaxed, subdued and agreeable. The eclectic selection plays nightly from 9 p.m. La Habana 152 Le Lai, D1 | 028 3925 9838
Combining live music with a distinctly Spanish flavour, La Habana has built a strong reputation
Bui Vien has no shortage of places where you can drink and enjoy music, but few of them offer live music seven days a week. Just a half a block away from the walking street, it’s a bit heavy in covers, but where else are you going to hear home-grown talent deliver Bruno Mars and Ariana Grande in the same set?
Saturday nights belong to the ’60s and ’70s. Carmen Bar 8 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | 09 0135 4787
Carmen Bar’s intended effect is that of a Spanish castle, which mirrors its nightly live music offerings. The bar prides itself as the go-to spot for Latin and gypsy music recalling sounds native to the Andalusia region.
Fang Pub 17 Nguyen hi Dieu, D3 | 09 0901 4608
Cuba la Casa del Mojito
The Fang Pub’s rise in popularity among the local and expatriate communities is due in no small part to its consistent live music offerings.
91 Pasteur St, D1 | 028 3822 7099
Except Mondays, the bar hosts a rotating cast of rock musicians who play on a lowered part of the bar floor. Broma: Not A Bar 41 Nguyen Hue, D1 | 028 3823 6838
“Broma” is Spanish for “joke”, but this place has a serious offering of live music that is nothing to laugh at. The rooftop bar hosts regular musicians and DJs, where performers play under a teardrop-shaped disco ball rotating
If you don’t mind the tight quarters, Cuba la Casa del Mojito hosts Spanish musicians the Mosquito Band every Friday and Saturday night at 10 p.m. The cosy bar resembles a freight car in both shape and the amount of personal space you’re afforded. If you can get a good seat, you’ll be getting pretty intimate with the band’s sonorous guitars and bold voices. Space be damned, there’s plenty of dancing, perhaps due to a menu heavy in tequila. Reservations are recommended but not required. Originally published in #iAMHCMC, January 2017
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MAY
JUN
Milk Tea All the Rage Among Vietnam’s Millennials
Vietnam Named Top Coffee Exporter in March, Second Only to Brazil
JUL
OCT
Australian Tourist Overcharged US$40,000 For Meal in HCMC
Vinamilk Named Fourth Largest Vietnamese Company in the Country
NOV
NOV
McDonald’s Announces Plans to Open First Restaurant in Hanoi
Over 400 Companies Join Vietnam International Food Expo
FOOD in 2017
JUN First 7-11 Convenience Store Opens in Ho Chi Minh City
Sources: VnExpress, Tuoi Tre, Saigoneer, News.com, Hanoi Times, Inside Retail Asia, VEN.vn
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Questions by Keely Burkey, Answers by Ines Quoico
Manically Organic We talk to Organik Dalat’s Ines Quoico to learn what it takes to grow organically in Vietnam.
What made you interested in growing organic food in Vietnam? I came here in 2012 and have been a vegetarian since I was 14 years old. If you look at some studies and statistics, people who eat plantbased diets have a higher chance of eating chemicals. In Vietnam, I was a bit concerned about what I was eating. If somebody says that something is organic here, how can a consumer know it’s true? [The customer] has to ask for the organic certification of the products or of the farm. So, if you go to my website, it’s inside, and I put it on my Facebook page. If you go to my farm, I have it in a frame. It’s in the shop as well. The only way to know is to ask for the certification. How did you come to have your own organic farm? I went to Da Lat and I saw Dr. [Nguyen Ba] Hung, who is supposed to be the father of organic food in Vietnam. I was very surprised because he was very traditional. Like, the way he grows organic. And at that time, he wanted to retire. So, he asked me if I wanted to invest, and I said, “Yes, why not.” He’s been retired since November 2016. What organic certifications does your farm have? When we started together, we only had the EU Organic Certification and the HACCP, the food safety certification, which is very difficult to get. And after one year of work we got the EU, the USDA and the HACCP. And I’m targeting in 2018 to get the Japanese Certification as well.
It sounds like there are a lot of different organic certifications available. Is there an actual definition of what organic food is? The definition of organic food is you have to have the organic certification. But there are so many! There are so many, but it depends on which one fits you. But the thing is, you need to have the certification, otherwise you’re not organic. You really need to have the audits every year. People come to my farm and they fly there from India, from Malaysia, from Thailand. All the auditors are from outside the country. They even fly in a translator, because this is important.
FOOD FEATURE
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Do you know if Vietnam is doing anything to improve the agricultural practices of conventional farmers who might not have the resources to farm things organically? There’s the Vietnamese certification for Good Agricultural Practice (VietGAP). Basically, they have a list of products that they can use or are not allowed to use. It’s much larger and less strict than other organic certifications. And because it’s less strict, you may still have some chemicals inside. They’re asking the farmers to not spray two weeks before the harvest to make sure that it’s not too much. I think for now the VietGAP certification is a good thing, because at least now we have something to control, and a way to regulate how farmers are using the chemicals. It’s a start. So, it’s not truly organic. Do you think Vietnam will ever have its own organic certification? Of course there have been many, many discussions within the government, and I have been approached many times. They really want to do something, they want to have a Vietnam Organic Certification. Something that will suit the country and the knowledge of the farmers. And I think they will manage to have one in three years at least. But until then, the only way to reassure customers and the people is to rely on external certification.
It sounds expensive. You pay for the ticket, you pay for the meals. You pay for the translators and the accommodation, and they come and audit your farm. It’s a real audit. They ask questions, they take samples, they do a tour of your farm. They go wherever they want, they see whatever they want. And you have to pay for the lab test as well. It’s expensive too. They are king, they do whatever they want. So the organic process isn’t well set-up for conventional farmers? [Many organic farmers] barely survive with their crops because organic farmers are almost poorer than conventional farmers. Because when you lose your production and you see your tomatoes dying because of these pests that are coming, you cannot do anything. You cannot kill the pests with sprays to keep your tomatoes. 13
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Can Vietnam Learn to Love Vino?
wine
DRINKS FEATURE
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In a land where beer is king, Vietnam’s fledgling wine industry struggles to take holds. By Jesús López-Gomez Beer may have more presence—it’s literally out on the streets—but for Finewines Deputy Wine Director Lin Bui, the Vietnamese love is wine is a quieter, more mature affair, a relationship with a subtle kind of strength. Wine’s abiding place in the Vietnamese lifestyle is due in part to its status as a much soughtafter gift.
Bui said Vietnamese consumers are becoming more familiar with viniculture through stores like her own that offer both the drink and the product knowledge to start building a wine culture bottle by bottle.
Teaching the Basics
Bui said wine sales tend to spike around the end of the Western calendar year leading up to the Lunar New Year in late January or February.
Wine knowledge certification was a basically unknown accreditation at the time when Bui was seeking it.
As much as 60 percent of Finewines sales are made during that time.
Back then, the only groups that offered certification in Southeast Asia were in Hong Kong.
14 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Today, wine schools have sprung up in Singapore and even Vietnam too. Finewines intends to become a wine accreditation centre as well. In the five years she’s been with the company, Bui said the sales volume of wine has changed little. What has changed is the familiarity with the product and growing range of wines sought. When she started, red wine was 70 percent of sales. Today, Finewines sells an even number of reds and whites. “They’re getting more and more mature. They start to know what type of wine they want,” Bui said. The average consumer is starting to figure out basic wine pairings too.
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DRINKS FEATURE
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At that point, “they’re not connoisseurs, so they’re going to go for something stronger.” Ten years ago, when Carteau first arrived in Vietnam, Vietnamese drank almost exclusively strong, red Chilean wines with high alcohol content. The palette has broadened since then to include more Spanish and French wines. Bui concurred, saying French wine continues to be king, but it’s making space for wines from Australia and South America, which are coming into vogue.
Does it Pair? There’s a little bit of a mismatch with the Vietnamese diet, Bui said. She predicts a bettermatched group of white wines and light-bodied reds are going to be the drink of choice for the next generation of wine drinkers in this country.
Some of the challenge in bringing wine into concert with Vietnamese cuisine is the difficulty of pairing the drink with the staple dishes.
François Carteau, owner of the Wine Embassy Boutique in Thao Dien, said that today many wine lovers find one another on social media. People are involving wine as part of their travels and even as a part of their corporate training, he said. “There’s a sense of wine as a social network,” Carteau said. Bui said wine is starting to integrate itself as part of the daily diet as it would be in the West.
“The food culture, the wine culture is starting to become like something daily, not something too luxury,” she said. “It’s a lifestyle, right?” Wine began to flourish during the trade normalisation between the US and Vietnam in the ’90s. Other countries took the thawing as their cue to look at Vietnam too, and foreign goods began to flood the local market, including wine. Bui said the go-to wine for a Vietnamese consumer tends to be a dark, deep red. The sense that alcohol ought to have a pronounced, strong taste to frame the red wine as the “normal” drink. Carteau said it makes sense that new wine drinkers would go for a strong, pronounced taste.
“Phở?” Bui asked laughing slightly when asked to offer a pair for the noodle soup. She hemmed and hawed for a second before suggesting the stew might go well with a sparkling, fruity wine. As a professional, she said that wouldn’t be her first choice of food and wine pairings. But it can be done with the right drink. That’s not to say there are no matches between fine wine and Vietnamese food. A gỏi gà salad would go great with a wellchosen white—the fresh cabbage salad would complement sparkling white wine or a lightbodied chardonnay. Barbecues are increasingly becoming a staple of Vietnamese cuisine. A US-made red like the Beringer cabernet sauvignon—Bui said the hint of fruitiness is the drink’s special power—is a great choice to bring along the next time you’re invited. Bui recommends something red and dry for occasions like these. If you’re ever in doubt, look for something in a serious-looking shade of red. “People in this culture love the red wine,” she said. “You will please every taste. No one says no to red wine. I myself never say no to red wine.” Originally published in #iAMHCMC, November 2017
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JUN
JUN
Lazada Signs Deal with 40 Vietnamese Retailers to Continue Aggressive Expansion Strategy
Vietnamese Investment Group Hoang Anh Gia Lai Helps Fund Mall in Yangon, Myanmar
OCT
OCT
Vincom Retail Sets Record-Breaking IPO on Stock Market
IKEA CEO Announces Plans to Enter Vietnamese Market
NOV
NOV
Millennial Shoppers Will Likely Lead to E-Commerce Boom
Shipment of Allegedly Fake Converse Shoes Intercepted in Vietnam in Transit to Laos
SHOPPING in 2017
SEP H&M Opens Flagship Store in HCMC’s Vincom Centre
Sources: VnExpress, Inside Retail Asia, VietnamNet, Nikkei Asian Review
16 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
SHOPPING FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
#iAMHCMC
Fast Fashion, Big Money What does Vincom, H&M and Uniqlo all have in common? They’re all changing Vietnam’s retail market. Dong Khoi got a bit more foot traffic than usual on 9 September when Swedish clothing company H&M’s hallmark opened in Vincom Dong Khoi. Over the course of the store’s opening day, it was reported that some 10,000 fashionistas filed in. Other highly publicised openings made fast fashion the undeniable trend of 2017, thanks to Zara’s arrival in September and Massimo Dutti’s entry that same month. Uniqlo’s operator, Fast Retailing, has even been sighted recruiting staff in Hanoi and Saigon last May for a rumoured opening in 2018, and American company Forever 21 is supposedly not far behind.
There’s no doubt about it: fast fashion is taking over the retail market, and the process hasn’t been slow.
Slightly Less Air For Carey Zesiger, Manager of Business Development for the HCMC-based international fashion distribution company Havang, the openings are interesting, but also a bit worrying. “It’s a limited market, and I think that these big openings [...] may be sucking the oxygen out of the room a bit, and maybe making things harder for some other retail players, especially in the clothing and apparel space,” he said. The rapid growth of retail in Vietnam, focused primarily on the growing middle class in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, has caused companies to scramble to appeal to a market increasingly looking to consume. The Ministry of Industry and Trade said that 183 foreign brands were already established in Vietnam, filling the market for food, beverages, business services, hotel sectors and fashion. This number will no doubt increase in 2018. However, urbanisation has put a crimp in the expansion plans of a few brands. “There’s a lot of construction in downtown Ho Chi Minh City, and that’s tying traffic into knots and
making it a little difficult to get around. I think that’s discouraging some people from going shopping,” Zesinger said. With increasingly affluent residents moving farther away from the CBD, the story isn’t what brands are coming in—it’s where they’ll be located.
It’s a Vincom World Large-scale retail developers are looking less at Saigon’s increasingly congested downtown, and more at Districts 2, 7 and provinces outside Saigon. Companies like the Japanese Aeon, Korean Lotte and Vietnamese Vincom have been spreading across the cityscape and, slowly, the country.
In particular, Zesiger is keeping a close eye on Vincom: “They’re definitely leading the way in terms of new retail developments, and everyone’s eager to see how that plays out.” According to a presentation given by Vincom to attract potential investors, it differs from Aeon and Lotte primarily thanks to its all-tier distribution strategy. While Aeon’s target market is currently people who make approximately US$5,000 to US$20,000 per year, and Lotte’s market is geared towards earners who take home over US$20,000, Vincom provides retail opportunities for consumers at all pay levels, from below US$3,000 (Vincom+) to over US$20,000 (Vincom Centres) and everywhere in between. Vincom estimates that could account for US$100 billion in potential retail revenue. It currently operates 41 shopping centres around Vietnam; in 2018, it plans to expand this number to 56 in a variety of different provinces previously untouched by this level of retail.
US$709 million, ultimately placing the net worth of the company at US$3.4 billion.
Vingroup’s retail group solidified its dominance in November, when Vincom Retail made its debut on the Ho Chi Minh Stock Exchange with record-breaking sales of
“Clearly, [Vincom has] been successful at securing locations and also quite successful at funding those developments, and doing that on a rather large scale,” Zesiger said. 17
Moto Dreams:
What to Look for in a Bike Everyone in HCMC rides a motorbike. How do you join them? By Rob van Driesum You move to HCMC and soon notice that the seemingly chaotic traffic is quite civilised without necessarily adhering to road rules, and there’s very little if any road rage. The give-andtake seems to work well. Just make sure you give-and-take as well, and don’t worry about any ‘rules’ back home. After all, people in Vietnam have grown up on two wheels literally since they were babies.
You also realise that some sort of motorbike could be very useful, and that nothing beats it for speed and ease. If you can ride a bike yourself and are only here for a few months, by all means rent. You won’t have to worry about maintenance—just put petrol in the thing and hope that the person you rent it from will take care of it if anything 18 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
goes wrong. If you’ll be here for more than six months, it makes far more financial sense to buy and sell when you leave.
Licensing and Insurance Unfortunately, you’ll need a Vietnamese motorbike licence if you don’t want to rely on Grab and Uber. These services are fairly safe (use your own helmet rather than who-knowswhat has worn it before), but like renting, it soon becomes cheaper to do it yourself.
You don’t need a licence for anything under 50cc, which should be enough for city traffic if you don’t carry too many passengers. Otherwise, you’ll have to convert your foreign licence or get a local one. The legalities of foreign
licences and International Driving Permits are unclear—government announcements seem subject to different interpretations (welcome to Vietnam), and police on the ground may be characteristically ignorant of them (ditto). You can convert a foreign bike licence either yourself for a few tens of dollars if you’re willing to run around for lots of make-work bureaucracy, or go through an agent for a few hundred dollars where you still need to run around a bit with them. At least they’ll take care of the theory test in Vietnamese if you don’t have a foreign licence, but in that case you still have to do the giggle-inducing practical test yourself—see Google Videos. Keep in mind that if you convert a foreign licence, it’s only valid for the duration of your visa or licence, whichever comes first. That’s a real headache at renewal time, so you may want to try and
SHOPPING FEATURE
Scooter or ‘Proper’ Motorbike? Some foreigners and Vietnamese want Vespas, especially the ‘cool’ vintage two-strokes with their tiny, dangerously unstable wheels. Modern Vespas are more stable, like their (much cheaper) Asian counterparts. Scooters have the advantage of bodywork (floorboards, leg shields) that keeps you relatively dry on flooded roads. ‘Real’ motorbikes have larger wheels that are more stable through potholes and over bumps, and are more comfortable on country trips. Many popular models provide the best of both worlds with large-ish wheels and some bodywork.
Picture by Trang Hua
get a ‘proper’, unlimited Vietnamese licence if you’re going to be here for a few years— i.e., hundreds of dollars unless you speak/write Vietnamese and know the official road rules for the theory test… Either way, get the mandatory third-party insurance, less than VND100,000 a year, sold by the side of the road. The police like to see that. Much more importantly, however, check your own medical insurance about riding a bike, and the licence it wants to see to approve a claim.
Depending on specifications, you can buy a popular Honda Wave (motorbike, little water protection) brand-new from around US$800, or a Honda Airblade with some bodywork from US$1,400, right up to a delectable Honda SH150 for US$4,000. Yamaha Nouvos and Suzuki Hayates are other sensible choices. Taiwanese Sym Attilas are popular too, though their tiny wheels are less than ideal. A new Piaggio (Vespa) will set you back around US$6,000. Maintenance is cheap, except for some spare parts—not to mention Vespa maintenance. Steer clear of the China-built Honda Win 110cc, advertised by backpackers who come down from Hanoi two-up and are desperate to sell before their flight. They don’t have the legendary reliability of ‘proper’ Hondas. If you buy second-hand, do it from an expat
#iAMHCMC
who knows a bit about bikes, or at least from someone who understands regular maintenance—not just a workshop visit when something breaks down. Servicing receipts are priceless. Regular engine oil changes are crucial—the oil breaks down quick smart at low speeds in stop-go city traffic. Caring owners change the oil monthly or every 1,000km for less than 10 minutes at a dealer for VND100,000 max. Also look for clean air filters and decent tyres, along with a near-new battery (batteries don’t last long in this heat).
Where to Buy? If you can afford to buy new, see what the official dealers can offer. Go there in person and bring a Vietnamese-speaker. Do an all-in offer with cash on the table. Avoid their secondhand bikes—you don’t know the history. Try to get the bike registered in your name, which may or may not be possible as a foreigner—see how you go. Until recently, if you bought a bike second-hand, holding the blue registration card was proof of ownership, regardless of the named first owner three steps removed. Apparently this is now illegal, but no-one really knows. Again, welcome to Vietnam. Expats advertise second-hand on anphuneighbours and phumyhungneighbours (find them through Google Groups), or on expat.com’s motorbikes classifieds section and several other such sites. Make sure the seller has cared about servicing, and check all details on the registration card! Originally published in #iAMHCMC, June 2017
19
TRAVEL n b y Tu
JAN
MAR
Halong Bay Cruise Boat Catches Fire, 21 Rescued
Government Publishes Official Etiquette Guide for Tourists
g
Di
nh
MAY
AUG
Hanoi Woman Handed One-Year Flight Ban Due to Unruly Plane Behaviour
Western “Beg Packers” Raise Eyebrows in Developing Countries
AUG
NOV
Prime Minister Endorses Controversial Plan to Install Cable Car in Son Doong Cave, an UNESCO Heritage Site.
International Tourist Arrivals Reach 10.5 Million, a 28.1% Increase from 2016
TRAVEL in 2017
MAY Danang Airport Welcomes New International Terminal
Sources: Saigoneer, VnExpress, Tuoi Tre, City Pass Guide, Vietnam Net
20 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
TRAVEL ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
The Rule Breakers With an all-inclusive spa and a breath of fresh air, Fusion Resort Phu Quoc opens on Vietnam’s paradise isle.
Vung Bau Bay, Cua Can village, Phu Quoc Island | 297 3690 000 | reservations.frpq@fusion-resorts.com | www.fusionresortphuquoc.com
Do you prefer to get your first complimentary spa treatment before or after breakfast? Well, how about both? Sometimes life’s decisions can be tough, but not here, where the spa is allinclusive... Situated just 45 minutes by air from HCMC, with golden sands, turquoise waters, and fiery red sunsets, the island of Phu Quoc is one of Vietnam’s greatest treasures. For my partner and I living in Saigon, it’s one of our favourite weekend getaways. As the international hotel and resort chains continue to spread upward and outward across the island, Fusion Resort Phu Quoc, the fifth member of Fusion’s growing family of wellnessinspired properties, with its 97 low-lying “all-pool” villas and soothing back-to-nature vibes, offers something truly unique. From the “Breakfast Anywhere, Anytime” service, to small details like the trend-bucking booking confirmation they send out, everything at a Fusion property is about parting with tradition. “We’re not like other five-star resorts,” says Huong, our Fusionista (a super-friendly butler and a super-creative concierge rolled into one) as we take the complimentary 40-minute shuttle from the island’s international airport. “We’re more down-to-earth, more genuine, and much more relaxed.” She’s absolutely right. I didn’t see any of the other hotels greeting their guests in the arrivals area with hugs and smiles and instant first-name terms.
“So,” adds Huong, “what time do you want to visit the spa today?”
Eat, Beach, Spa, Repeat… The “all-spa inclusive” concept is the highlight of every Fusion Resort and is something you won’t find anywhere else, with a menu of massages, facials and all-natural body wraps and scrubs. Beyond the spa, the resort is also home to a stunning beach, two communal pools, three distinct dining destinations, a fully equipped fitness centre, plus daily yoga, tai chi and meditation sessions. Each of the accommodation options—ranging from the one-bedroom garden villas to the five-bedroom Grand Beach Villa also comes with its own outdoor pool. If you can pry yourself away from the resort, your Fusionista can tailor-make excursions, tours and “locals-only” experiences, while guided
hikes and bike rides into the countryside, plus complimentary on-site games and activities, mean you can stay as active or as restful as you wish. Before we’ve kicked off our shoes, I know already that our one-bed beach-front abode is going to be hard to leave. Spacious, completely open-plan, with a deep sunken bathtub, open shower, and a shaded outdoor veranda overlooking our own private pool and our own private ocean, I wish we’d booked a longer stay.
The Fusion Lifestyle After the mind-melting Natural Living Pepper massage, followed by reviving glasses of fresh fruit juice, it’s time for sunset drinks at Soul Kitchen, the resort’s laid-back pool bar and diner. Later, with the stars twinkling over the Gulf of Thailand, we indulge in a fresh seafood feast in the beach-front restaurant Pezcá. “In all of our restaurants,” says Huong, who has swung by to ask how we’re doing, “our menus are carefully crafted. You’ll find plenty of treats, but also plenty of healthier choices. And our chefs are able to cater for any special dietary requirements, from plant-based to gluten-free.”
And that’s what really makes Fusion special. That personal touch. Huong explains that she sees her guests more like friends than customers. “I love that I get the chance to make people’s vacations extra special,” she says. 21
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
camping in Vietnam: “official camping” and “wild camping”. Here are some of my favourite places to camp.
Official Camping on the Southeast Coast Although camping for leisure is a fairly new concept in Vietnam, it’s increasingly popular with the younger generation of urban Vietnamese, who are keen to escape the concrete and pollution of their rapidly expanding cities and to travel cheaply and independently of their parents.
Camp of Approval Tom Divers, author of travel blog Vietnam Coracle, journeys around the country to find the best places to enjoy the great outdoors. Story and pictures by Tom Divers
Why Camp in Vietnam? Camping is the ultimate expression of independent travel. Sleeping outdoors—by the beach, in the mountains, under the jungle canopy—gives the traveller a sense of freedom and a proximity to nature that no hotel room can ever match. 22 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
As a country of exceptional natural beauty and varied landscapes, Vietnam has great potential for camping. Some of my most memorable travel experiences in Vietnam have been while sleeping in the open. From setting up camp alone under a lunar eclipse in the far northern mountains, to camping with my good friends around a fire in a cold Central Highlands’ forest, sharing bottles of rose myrtle wine and watching the stars, my camping experiences will stay with me forever. There are essentially two kinds of
To cater to this new trend, many official campgrounds have established themselves as hubs for urban youth getaways. This is especially true of the southeast coast between Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne. All within easy reach of Vietnam’s largest city, the beaches here are scattered with new and exciting places to pitch your tent (or rent a tent) by the sea. Some campgrounds in particular, such as Coco Beachcamp near La Gi or Long Son near Mui Ne, have proved wildly popular with both domestic and foreign travellers. As a result, there’s been an explosion of similar campsites all along the coast. One of my favourite road trips in the southern dry season is to camp from Saigon all the way to Nha Trang, using the new coastal roads and stopping at any of the dozens of campsites along the way. These campgrounds usually offer visitors the choice of pitching their own tent (for a nominal fee) or renting one. Depending on the campsite, tents range from small, oneor two-person domes for a couple of dollars, to large, roomy, luxury pavilions which can set you back the price of a mid-range hotel room.
TRAVEL FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
Adventure Time
About the Author Tom is the author of independent travel website Vietnam Coracle. Drawing on 11 years’ experience travelling all over
beaches make ideal campsites. Bathe in the river, light a small campfire, break out the ukulele and rice wine, and watch the stars roll out over the night sky.
the country, his free online guides aim to give travellers the confidence to explore
Pu Mat National Park
Vietnam independently, without joining a
Rarely visited, this part of Nghe An Province juts westwards northwest of Vinh, taking a bite out of Laos. Pu Mat National Park straddles the Lao border, south of Highway 7. The midlands here, between the Ca River and the Pu Lai Leng Mountains, consist of a glorious landscape of limestone hills bisected by clear rivers and decorated with bamboo groves and plunging waterfalls. It’s like a scene from an ancient Chinese ink-and-wash painting. Find a quiet, steamy spot at the edge of the jungle, where the foliage meets a stream, and make camp. Cook up some instant noodles and watch the mesmerising night-time dance of fireflies as they flit playfully over the trickling water.
package tour. He focuses on less-trodden areas, encouraging readers to go beyond the destinations that make up most of the standard south-north itineraries. You can read more about many of the places mentioned in the article on www.VietnamCoracle.com.
However, bear in mind that some of these campgrounds have been so successful in luring in the adventure-hungry youth of Ho Chi Minh City, that they can become extremely busy, especially on weekends and public holidays.
Wild Camping in the Forests and Mountains Wild camping is still quite unusual in Vietnam: domestic and foreign travellers rarely bother to carry a tent with them as they travel through the country. But, with the right equipment, planning, precautions, and a bit of patience and common sense, wild camping in Vietnam is superb. Over the years, I’ve camped in many parts of the country. These are some of my favourites: Bidoup Nui Ba National Park
Fabled for its cool highland climate and pine forests, new roads have recently opened up the area to the north of Dalat. Beyond the touristy shores of Suoi Vang Lake, a crisp new road leads deep into the endless pine forests on the fringes of Bidoup Nui Ba National Park. Find a good camping spot on the soft carpet of pine needles, under the tall, straight, towering tree trunks, and watch the sun go down in the west, lighting ridge after ridge of misty mountains. During the cold night, the wind in the treetops sounds like waves breaking on a beach. The Western Ho Chi Minh Road
Probably the most famous road in Vietnam, and certainly one of the most scenic, the Western Ho Chi Minh Road meanders through sublime landscapes as it passes through Quang Tri and Quang Binh provinces, not far from the Lao border. Freshwater springs burst from the jungle-cloaked mountainsides, feeding amethyst-coloured rivers, where perfect pebble
Quay Son River Valley
Way up in the northeast corner of Vietnam, the Quay Son River is a jade-coloured ribbon of water sloping through a bucolic valley of terraced rice paddies, bamboo water-wheels and limestone hills, before dramatically tumbling 30 metres at Ban Gioc Waterfall. A weir road leads over to the north bank of the Quay Son River, where the grassy, fallow, terraced fields above the river are excellent for camping, affording fabulous views over the waterway and its magical valley. Settle in for a moonlit night accompanied by a hypnotic chorus of cicadas and flowing water.
A Note on Security and Responsibility There are certain considerations to take into account before wild camping in Vietnam. If you’re worried about security or local authorities, try to get permission before setting up camp. Ask a forestry official or a local farmer, for example. Chances are they’ll be happy to let you camp. UXO (Unexploded Ordinance) is still a big issue in Vietnam. Use your common sense: don’t go marching off into the middle of the jungle. Camp responsibly and don’t give wild camping a bad name: clean up your trash and leave your campsite as you found it. Originally published in #iAMHCMC, July/August 2017 23
FEB
NOV
HCMC Sponsors Swimming Lessons for 5,000 Kids
Sultan of Brunei Opens English Center in Da Nang
NOV
NOV
Ho Chi Minh City to Build US$88 Million on New Academic Complex
Report Shows 22,400 Vietnamese Students Study in U.S., a 5% Increase from 2016
NOV
NOV
Student Teams Represent Vietnam in the Internationally World Robot Olympiad 2017
HCMC’s New Fulbright University Vietnam Set to Enroll 50 Students in First Academic Year
EDUCATION in 2017
MAY HCMC Forbids Schools from Teaching During Summer Break
Sources: Tuoi Tre, Vietnam Net, VnExpress
24 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
EDUCATION FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
#iAMHCMC
The Silver Bullet? Technology in the Classroom Vietnam’s millennials are marked by their reliance on technology, which continue to influence every sphere of life. But are laptops in the classroom actually helping kids learn? Stephen Coyle, an IELTS instructor for the Reliable English School (RES), didn’t just see the dawn of technology in the classroom—he heard it. “When I first started teaching [in Vietnam] 14 years ago, the noise level in the classroom was incredible; people were shouting, talking, laughing. Now, during the break, it’s completely silent. Everyone is just looking at their phones.” The heavy reliance on digital devices in Vietnam has come swiftly: over 35 million people use Facebook regularly in the country, and an estimated 32.43 million will have a smartphone in 2018.
The use of technology has irreversibly changed the way we look at the world and have become social, but in HCMC, will it change the way our kids learn as well?
A Tech Emphasis Thomas Galvez, Saigon South International School’s Technology Learning Coach, acknowledged that technology can have detrimental effects on a child’s socialisation, but averred that it it’s all about balance. “It’s not about weaning them off [of smartphones],” he said. “It’s about teaching them the appropriate times to use it, and to understand the effects.” With separate technology coaches for the elementary, middle and high schools and an overall ICT Director in the administration department, it’s safe to say that SSIS takes the role of technology in the classroom seriously. Earlier this year, SSIS became the first Apple Distinguished School in the country, a distinction both prestigious and rather nebulous.
At the moment 400 schools spread across 29 countries are Apple Distinguished Schools. To hold this coveted title, Galvez said it wasn’t so much having Apple products (although SSIS is a completely Mac-driven institution and requires all parents to purchase a personal MacBook for their child when they enter the 4th grade), but rather promoting an innovative approach to learning. Finding ways to do this is Galvez’s bread and butter. Although he acknowledged that it’s impossible to keep up with all the technological trends, he keeps current through an active worldwide professional learning network with other technology coaches. “Twitter is a great medium for this,” he said. Once he discovers something he thinks might make learning more efficient, or connect kids in a deeper way, he meets with teachers to discuss how the program can be integrated into their lesson. For a language class, he said that SoundCloud is often useful, which allows teachers to comment in different places on a student’s audio file. For multimedia collaborations, he might suggest Explain Everything, an interactive whiteboard app that lets students create visual presentations in the cloud, so students and the teacher can interact as it’s created.
“That’s the great thing about these cloud-based tools,” he said. “They provide asynchronous capacities that students and teachers can access to provide feedback and learn anytime, anywhere.” The emphasis on creativity and multimedia emphasised by Mac products is widely believed to help prepare students for future careers, many of which will require teamwork, collaboration
Picture by Trang Hua
and thinking outside of the box. However, as Rob van Driesum, a parent of an SSIS child (and, full disclosure, the freelance copyeditor of #iAMHCMC) points out, “Not all kids will end up working in multimedia. They’ll need skills in Windows-based Word, Excel, Powerpoint, Outlook and so on.”
End in Itself? The debate about technology’s role in the classroom has been raging for over a decade, since the concept of One-to-One learning was first propagated in the late 1990s. By providing students with personal learning devices, from which they could read digital textbooks and complete assignments, many claimed that the learning process could be more efficient and streamlined. Subsequent studies have suggested that digital learning isn’t the silver bullet some first believed it was, and some schools have tempered their expectations, or at least begun to view technology as a tool rather than an end in itself. Thomas Galvez at SSIS mirrors these thoughts. “The whole focus of this job is really not technology,” he said. “Learning is always going to be at the centre of schools.” He paused for a moment, and then continued: “A good teacher is a good teacher. And to be a good teacher, you don’t necessarily need technology. Really, it’s about relationships.” 25
Designing a Better Future Teaching doesn’t always require words. Just look at the work of Van Hoang Dao, who teaches conservation practices through vibrant drawings and graphic designs. Story and images by Van Hoang Dao Drawing is my lifelong hobby, and nature’s stories are my passion now. The two didn’t meet until 1999, when I first crossed the Dong Nai river on the ferry to enter Cat Tien National Park. I discovered thousands of strange creatures, mammals covered with scales, tadpoles that grow canines like vampires, and wanted to draw them all. With my first tablet and digital pen, I made a small book to be distributed to children around the park to help them understand the forest and its creatures. With the success of the book, WWF commissioned me to paint a 200m2 wall at the reception with the fauna and flora of the 26 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
park. I used to escape the advertising agency where I worked to come to the park to paint the leopard, python and other creatures at the top of the wall, perching on an acrobatic ladder. You can still see this mural at the reception, and the other artwork I did with house paint at the canteen depicting a life-size elephant, rhino, tiger, and a bird wall for avian lovers.
Animals in Vietnam and Southeast Asia keep losing out to the growing illegal trafficking in wildlife, which is getting more sophisticated and dangerously efficient.
EDUCATION FEATURE
Some animals are lucky enough to be confiscated by the combined efforts of the government’s Forest Protection Department and an NGO named Wildlife At Risk, and they end up in a temporary rescue centre. Telling that story was complex and needed more than a tablet or house paint. Within 72m2, I used an art installation, painting, graphic design and interior lighting to explain to visitors how close to extinction Vietnamese wildlife is, what is needed to save them and how one can help. The marine environment faces similar issues. The Con Dao archipelago is an example. This paradise of pristine beaches and coral reefs is assaulted by pollution and overfishing. There is little hope of convincing grown-ups not to spoil their own habitat, but I thought young school kids were more open to conservation messages. So I combined visuals and sounds to convey the “Love Your Sea” message. Half the population of the island was drawn to the venue.
After many years of working in advertising agencies, I left to combine my drawing hobby with my passion for wildlife in the form of acrylic on canvas. For now, I’m spending every minute of the day doing what I love best. While I still struggle with the logistical and financial aspects of being an artist, most of my wildlife art is about hope, hope for a better environment. Originally published in #iAMHCMC, April 2017
#iAMHCMC
Some Wild Animals You Can Find in HCMC Tree Snake
Although it will bite (I got bitten several times while handling it) this snake is harmless to humans. I hope it finds a way to survive amid the ongoing construction activities and human aggression towards it.
a miracle to find them flying free also in the urban setting, because of course you can also find them in cages. Long-Tailed Grass Lizard
This snake can actually fly, or rather glide from branch to branch in the top canopy – it flattens its body, spreading its ribs to form a sort of parachute, then steers in the direction it wants to go by balancing its tail.
This beautiful lizard likes long, tall grasses. It has black and green stripes along its body down to the tail – a particularly long tail as the name suggests. I found them in Cat Tien NP, and although I never thought I would find one in the city, I did just a few metres from where I live in D2, very close to a construction site.
Great Hornbill
Banded Bullfrog
I used to work for an advertising agency in Saigon Centre, Le Duan street. Occasionally, we would see a greater hornbill perched on the tamarind tree at our 10th floor level. Hornbills mate for life.
Everyone living in the countryside should be familiar with this beautiful frog, or at least its call, bellowing like a cow.
The female cements herself inside a tree hollow using her saliva mixed with mud, leaving only a hole big enough for the tips of her beak. Then she lays her eggs and stays imprisoned until her chicks can fly. All this time, the male has to find food to feed her through the hole. If he gets hunted – people use hornbill casques for different purposes in many cultures – the whole family will die with him. Alexandrine Parakeet
In Cat Tien NP you can see thousands of them noisily obscuring the sky, especially during the corn harvest season. It is almost
The species name is pulchra, which means “beautiful”, and it truly is. Unfortunately this makes it common in the international pet trade, which in turn now makes it an invasive species in some countries. I sometimes find them in my parents’ house in D12, climbing up to the third floor when it rains. When threatened, it can expand itself and secrete a gluey toxic substance for defence. Geckos
There are many different types. Some have a more serrated tail, some have fewer toes. I enjoy finding those that camouflage themselves on the dark trunks of the dipterocarpus trees in the city.
27
JAN
JUN
Scissors Taken From Man’s Stomac After 18 Years
Vietnamese Skincare Clinic Inadvertently Uses Logo of Resident Evil’s Umbrella Corporation
JUN
AUG
HCMC Health Hospital Notes Rise of Patients Seeking Mental Help
Ex-Drug Company Director Sentenced to 12 Years for Involvement in Fake Cancer Medicine Scandal
AUG
SEP
Dengue Fever Death Toll Rises to 24
Study Shows Polluted Air Cuts 1.16 Years off Average Life Expectancy in Vietnam
HEALTH in 2017
JUN Study Shows Adult Obesity Rate in Vietnam Lowest in the World
Sources: Saigoneer, Tuoi Tre, Vn Express
28 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
HEALTH FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
#iAMHCMC
Stay Healthy:
Keep Informed You probably know you shouldn’t drink the tap water and should avoid street vendors with questionable safety standards. We learned that even some daily routines could be making you sick.
Avoid Secondhand Smoke This might be tough in a country in which half of the men and 5 percent of the women smoke. An estimated 47 million people are affected by secondhand smoke in Vietnam, and this carries many of the same health risks as lighting up yourself. Being regularly exposed increases your chances of stroke and ups your cardiovascular disease risks by a whopping 20 to 30 percent! Our advice: avoid bars without proper ventilation, and wear your traffic mask as you’re walking through the city.
Wear a Good Traffic Mask Speaking of clean air: not all traffic masks are created equal. If you think your surgical or cloth mask will protect you, think again. While they might protect against large dust particles, everything else will be able to sneak in. To protect yourself from the 0.3-2.5 micrometre particles, the most dangerous particles of all, invest in a high-quality, filtered mask with a suction seal. AQ Blue makes these well, as does Vogmask.
more people in three years than pandemic diseases do in 100 years. A staggering 14,000 people die on the roads every year in Vietnam, making it the leading cause of death among people aged 15 to 29. Try to embrace public transport instead, or walk if your destination isn’t too far (but be careful crossing the street).
Be Wary of Medication The over-the-counter medication culture is strong in Vietnam, and there are downsides. Antibiotics are routinely used to fight common maladies like colds and flus. Although these are caused by viruses, against which antibiotics are actually ineffective, you’re increasing the chance for all sorts of bacteria to become stronger and medicine-resistant in the future. A World Health Organisation report listed Vietnam as one of the world’s top countries for antibiotic resistance, meaning that bacterial infections might become more powerful. So, for a common flu or cold, take care of it the old fashioned way.
Avoid Driving
Cool it with the Air Conditioner
Yep, sorry. We know you love your motorbike, but the truth is the truth: traffic accidents kill
There are two sides to this coin: on the one hand, heavy air conditioner use has been
Picture by Trang Hua
linked to nasal congestion, breathing problems, headaches, fatigue and irritated skin. On the other hand, it also filters out some of the harmful pollutants in the air, a particularly welcome trait in Ho Chi Minh City. So, try not to overdo it. A simple fan can work just as well.
Avoid the Cheap Alcohol The next time you’re in a convenience store and get lured into the seemingly amazing sales at the liquor section, think twice: that bottle of Jim Bean for VND70,000 is, most likely, low-grade grain alcohol. This year there have been a few particularly alarming cases of methanol poisoning, and some 382 people have been poisoned by unsafe alcohol in the past decade, 98 of whom have died. Think about the price before ordering your next tequila shot. Does it seem too good to be true? Then it probably is.
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29
Food Machine:
The Beginnings of Obesity in Vietnam Vietnamese food is healthy, but the food served today? Less so. And it could mean big trouble for the country’s youth. As Dr. Nguyen Thi Dan Thanh observes when she drives through the city centre almost every night, it’s a common sight to see Vietnamese millennials sitting outside cafes in groups, a sugary tea or coffee drink ubiquitously in front of each person. One of the first fully trained and accredited nutritionists from a Vietnamese university, Dr. Thanh sees this relatively recent confectionery development as troubling. “Community-wise, Vietnam currently is in a nutrition transition period, which is characterised by the existence of both the nutrition problems in advanced and advancing economies,” Dr. Thanh wrote to #iAMHCMC during an email interview. “All 30 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
in all, more and more people are facing some kind of nutrition-related problems, but the sad thing is that it is hard to find an appropriate resource to help them.” The question is, why is this happening in a country that boasts one of the most healthy cuisines on the planet?
The Vietnamese Paradox Simple yet complex, fresh yet slow-cooked, there’s no wonder many Vietnamese people don’t stray from their national cuisine. However, this might be part of the problem. Phil Kelly, a fitness specialist, took time out of his day to meet with me—ironically, at Tous Les Jours, one of the many Western-style quick-fix cafes doing well in Ho Chi Minh City in recent years. “There’s a big difference between what’s traditional [Vietnamese food] and what it’s turned into,” he tells me.
“Now, with modern-day cooking and flavour enhancement they’re adding more oils, more sugar… If you go back to basic eating, they never had that. It was actually very healthy.” Nutrition specialist Antoine Yvon mirrored this view, calling the problem “a Vietnamese paradox”: while Vietnamese food might be based on vegetables and healthy cooking techniques, the onset of chemically enhanced flavour profiles and industrialised cooking methods have rendered it anything but.
Getting Bigger Faster The decline of nutrition standards, and the adverse effects that come with it, is nothing new to Vietnam, or even the world. Case in point: obesity. A well-publicised study published in
HEALTH FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
The New England Journal of Medicine last July found that worldwide, 2.2 billion people are considered overweight. Unsurprisingly, the US was found to have the greatest number of obese adults (79.4 million people, almost a quarter of the population), while Vietnam and Bangladesh were tied for last—8.1 million people in Vietnam were overweight, less than 9 percent of the total population. However, the rate of obesity has risen steadily in recent years, although the numbers depend on which studies you read. A recent study by the University of Washington has shown a 6.8 percent obesity rate in Vietnamese children aged 2 to 19 (to put this in context, the US’s current rate is 28.5 percent), while a survey by Vietnam’s National Institute of Nutrition has listed the childhood obesity rate in urban cities to be as high as 40 percent in major cities, an increase of almost 10 times from a decade ago. The municipal administration of HCMC aims to keep the rate of overweight and obese children under five years of age at less than 12 percent by 2020; as of yet, no public campaigns have been pursued.
Worse Before it Gets Better Experts have been looking at individual factors in the shifting food landscape, above all: portion size, sugar consumption and an increased use of processed ingredients. Phil Kelly is adamant that portion size plays a big role. “With a rising economy and additional [spending money], people are going out and enjoying more food. It’s treating yourself.” Kelly has observed that Vietnamese eaters are generally controlled, but he sees voracious appetites in children especially, encouraged by parents who might not understand the adverse effects of too much food. The government is also taking note of excess sugar consumption and has proposed an additional tax on imported soft drinks—a controversial proposition that has garnered plenty of criticism from advocates of free trade. The tax would join the ranks of neighbouring countries like Cambodia (10 percent tax) and Thailand (20 to 25 percent tax), although nothing has yet been mandated.
#iAMHCMC
Education Is Key As Vietnam modernises and the middle class continues to grow, consumer spending has outpaced public education and awareness of health and nutrition. Many people I talked to said that the general perception of health and the body is limited, leaving the market open for global food distributors whose sales in Western countries have stagnated. Dr. Thanh describes her own journey towards becoming one of Ho Chi Minh City’s first Vietnamese nutrition specialists when she saw the adverse effects of some foods:
“I came to the conclusion that nutrition is one of the most [serious] problems for patients, but at that time we were not taught nutrition at school. That was the reason I chose to join a newly established nutrition department in my university.” Today Dr. Thanh is pioneering nutrition education with the help of Victoria Healthcare. She heads up a program called MyPlate, which counsels Vietnamese women about healthier cooking options. Small shifts are perceptible on the business side of things as well: a recent Nielsen’s Consumer Confidence Index report for Vietnam has determined that 34 percent of Vietnamese consumers list health as a number one concern; Nguyen Van Viet, the chair of the Vietnam Beverage Association, has reported a trend away from sugary drinks and towards juice drinks or drinks with reduced sugar. But a clear top-down educational structure has yet to be developed. At the moment, most people in Vietnam gain knowledge through their own efforts, rather than at school or through media campaigns, a difficult thing to pursue with the amount of advertising processed food companies use to get new customers hooked on their products. As Phil Kelly pointed out, “The whole snacking phenomenon came about when food companies were pushing, trying to make more money. When was the last time you saw a TV advert for broccoli?” Originally published in #iAMHCMC, October 2017 31
JUL
SEP
Less than 800 Foreigners Granted Home Ownership in Vietnam, Despite Easing Regulations
US$220 Million Resort Complex to Be Built in Van Don, in Quang Ninh Province
SEP
SEP
HCMC Frowns on the Creation of Micro Apartments
Real Estate Remains Second Largest FDI Lurer, After Manufacturing
OCT
NOV
Real Estate Booms in Da Nang, “Vietnam’s Most Liveable City”
Architect Ole Scheeren Unveils “Sky Forest” Building Plan in Vietnam
REAL ESTATE in 2017
JUL Lotte Signs on to Build US$884 Million Eco-Smart City in Thu Thiem New Urban Area
Sources: Vietnam Investment Review, CNN.com
32 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
by Jesús López-Gomez
REAL ESTATE FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
Bring on the Green:
LEEDS Construction in HCMC Vietnam isn’t known for green energy initiatives, but some developers are looking to change that. We find out what a greener and cleaner future might look like in HCMC. Go out on any warm day and you’re likely to hear the collective “whoosh” of the city’s many air conditioner units perched outside residences.
comparable metric. The majority, 42 percent, were factories. The residential sector had the smallest share of certified buildings, 3 percent.
City building code that allows builders to add an extra floor to their edifice if sustainability standards are met.
A centralised air conditioning system would be more cost effective and friendly to the environment, but the reason you don’t see these and other sustainable practices adopted more widely in construction is partly just short-sightedness. LEED expert and Colliers International Vietnam General Director David Jackson explained that the benefits of green building are buyer- and tenant-centric. (LEED stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, a US rating system for the environmental performance of a building.)
“Green building adoption has been limited in Vietnam,” the council wrote in its 2013 report.
A Green-Tinged Future?
“The issue with residential is that a lot of people won’t invest because the benefits (of having more efficient equipment or construction materials) stay with the owner rather than the builder,” he said. Never mind that the cost between building a sustainable structure and a conventional building is “minimal”, he added.
LEED vs. LOTUS Interest in LEED certification has grown to a point where a separate, more locally oriented set of standards has been developed, LOTUS. Those standards have been slow to take hold. Vietnam’s Green Building Council reported in December that just 12 projects had sought and acquired LOTUS certification. In 2013, the council reported that 41 buildings had received some kind of sustainability certification, either from LEED, LOTUS or a
The report said that “factories have led the way thus far”, like the LEED certified ColgatePalmolive Plant in Cu Chi, the first one to obtain the certification in the country in the summer of 2016. The Binh Duong province plant, which opened in 1996, worked with international engineering firm Royal HaskoningDHV to remake the 18,600m2 facility. “Slowly, Asia’s Factories Begin to Turn Green,” read a New York Times headline in 2014 describing a Vietnam Intel plant with a waterreclamation system and one of the country’s largest solar panel clusters. The developments resulted in questions from local authorities: they were reportedly seeking direction on what kind of standards the Vietnamese government could impose on its country’s manufacturers. Deputy Managing Director of Savills Vietnam Troy Griffiths said the regulatory framework that would support greater green building development is largely absent. “Until you get to a very mature city level … with tax incentives, development incentives … it’s going to be very hard to push for [sustainable development],” he said. Some development incentives do, however, exist right now. Jackson described a Ho Chi Minh
Looking forward, Jackson said firms are going to need to figure out how to help developers frame their sustainability interests in terms of market value for buyers. In other words, “what people look at here in terms of development is which one is going to sell my property more,” he said. “And I think people will focus on LEED” because of its international recognition.” Jackson said developers need to involve a green building consultant early in a project. “By bringing on a green consultant at an early stage of a project … they will guide you in terms of cost savings,” he said. Vietnam has also eased this process by making sustainable appliances more widely available. “When you’re looking at green products, five, six years ago, it was very difficult to find low flush toilets,” Jackson said. “You can get that here now.”
Vietnam has an edge in the green building space because of its wealth of architects and international architecture firms.
“For me, all buildings should be green buildings,” he said. “I think with technology (becoming less expensive) and more experience in the market, all building is going that way.” 33
#iAMHCMC
REAL ESTATE FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
Tearing Down the House For The Vinh Tran, a member of the Ministry of Construction, the key to HCMC’s future development isn’t building new buildings—it’s tearing down old ones. prices are soaring, and this is especially true for land in Districts 1 and 3. Some developers, Tran reports, have been waiting for land to become available for over 20 years. And it’s not just the developers—the government is equally prepared to develop new projects over old and unsafe projects. The holdouts? The tenants of the buildings themselves.
Location, Location, Location According to real estate regulations in Vietnam, any building constructed before 1975 is considered liable for destruction or renovation. The problems come into play when tenants, who own apartments or have binding leasing agreements, refuse to give up their home to make way for new building construction. Legally, Tran explains, the government has no right to forcibly remove a resident from their proper home, even when the house is hazardous and potentially dangerous.
When you factor in the monetary incentive that members of the Ministry of Construction are offering tenants, you have to ask: why stay? This might shock you, or it might not: over 75 percent of buildings in Ho Chi Minh City are currently unsound or unsafe. Many of the buildings in question are old residential buildings—condos or apartment complexes built before 1975. As The Vinh Tran, a member of the Ministry of Construction explains through an interpreter over a cup of trà đá, although there are some 500 such old condos in and around Ho Chi Minh City, most are concentrated in Districts 1, 3, 5 and 10.
In total, there are around 50,000 apartment units that need to go. This might come as strange news for anyone who follows real estate in the city. After all, land 34 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Because they live in prime locations, Tran says. Development plans in the city are widely known, and the tenants who live in the buildings know the worth of the properties they live in. Many tenants consider the compensation offered by government officials to be inadequate when judged against the property’s worth. After all, many tenants living in the degrading houses work in the centre of the city in a variety of lower paying jobs. Occupational options seem bleak when forced with the idea of relocation to affordable housing units on the outskirts of the city. However, as the years pass and the buildings degrade, these citizens are playing a dangerous game of chicken.
Building on the Edge The Vinh Tran is adamant about this issue and considers it a keystone preventing the city from efficient development strategies.
Rather than develop from the centre of the city and then slowly progress outward, as many cities naturally develop around the world, in Ho Chi Minh City we’re seeing a different path. Real estate companies, waiting years for land to become available in the city centre, have grown impatient. Now Novaland and other development companies have opted instead to invest money in land around the outer rim of the city. Tran considers this a less-than-optimal solution, as it results in uneven and ultimately uncontrollable real estate development. Traffic congestion and even pollution would be less, he maintains, if development was allowed to go forward on old condo complexes.
Slow Progress Despite the lengthy compensation negotiations, old buildings are gradually being torn down – just not at the rate that the city has targeted. For example, Vietnam News reported that since 2010 only 10 old apartment buildings were demolished. Recently, Tran reports, government officials have thought of a new incentive which has been attracting more old apartment tenants: a guaranteed spot in the new building, and sometimes a job within the building as well. These stable jobs, often as security guards or cleaners, have appealed to many tenants in existing buildings, whose options continue to decrease in a continually competitive market. However, it seems as though for the moment The Vinh Tran will have to be content with the slow crawl towards uniform modernisation in the centre of the city. Without adequate resources to make existing tenants happy, including compensation and suitable alternative housing, these crumbling houses will serve as a visual reminder of the progress yet to be made. Originally published in #iAMHCMC, May 2017
REAL ESTATE FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
#iAMHCMC
Controlling the Flood:
Affordable Housing in HCMC One of the keywords in Vietnam’s real estate today is urbanisation. Today, 34.1 percent of the country’s population live in this city, and this number is rapidly growing. The biggest question remains: where will everyone live? With an increasing FDI presence, a rising middle class and an influx of expatriates from wealthier countries, there’s no simple answer to this question. Nguyen Van Duc, the founder and owner of Dat Lanh Real Estate Company Ltd., a real estate developing company that focuses exclusively on affordable housing in Ho Chi Minh City, knows this only too well. With the help of his son, Nguyen Hung Tam, who acted as interpreter, Duc explained why he devoted his life to affordable housing in 1976. He pointed out an obvious advantage to affordable housing development: “The land available is on the outskirts of the city, so it’s cheaper.”
So far he’s built dozens of housing projects for low-income workers, mostly in District 12, and this demand will not let up any time soon.
Adding Up the Numbers
For local investors it’s also notoriously difficult to gather the money to complete these projects through bank loans. Dat Lanh Real Estate Company Ltd. has found another way to complete Duc’s projects: crowdsourcing from potential tenants. Many low-income workers and families will learn of a real estate project and will invest money to ensure a place to live when the project is finished. I ask how many projects have required help from tenants, and Duc’s response is immediate: “Most of them.”
Rising Demand and a Shifting Future The rising demand for affordable housing has come at a time when the real estate market is least prepared. In the past several years, the middle income and luxury apartment market has soared, spearheaded by heavy hitters like Vingroup and Novaland. The trouble is, these middle- to high-income apartments are only viable for 20 percent of Vietnam’s population.
Thousands of Vietnamese have been pouring into the city limits, attracted by the prospect of employment and educational opportunities. While this increase is clearly good news for manufacturing factories and schools, it has caused strain on the city’s housing and infrastructure developments.
The result has been thousands of apartments coming online at an asking price VND1 billion (around US$44,000). Keep in mind that the General Statistics Office listed 2016’s median yearly income as just VND50 million (US$2,200).
One problem? Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) has been funneling into HCMC’s high-end real estate projects, but has so far turned a blind eye towards affordable housing. Duc considers the question for a moment before answering: “From my knowledge, there’s only been one foreign company that is investing in affordable housing. And I don’t know the name. It’s not a big presence.”
Recognising the need for change, the real estate market has already seen a shift in development. Last December, for example, Vingroup’s residential sector, Vinhomes, announced plans to develop condos with a VND700 million price tag in the outer districts of Hanoi, HCMC, Nha Trang and other larger Vietnamese cities. While this goes in the right direction, more
Picture by Trang Hua
substantial plans are required to address the needs of the millions of students and workers who want affordable living space. For Duc, the question of an adequate supply of housing depends on several factors. He’s adamant, for example, about the need to revise the necessary amount of square metres per apartment. In HCMC, every apartment needs a minimum of 45m2; Duc would like this to be changed to 30 or even 30m2, like the building limits in Binh Duong. Duc expressed his desire to find a like-minded foreign partner who could help fund affordable housing projects in Districts 12 and 9, though many foreign companies are likely put off by the low return on investment (around 10 to 20 percent). “It’s true,” he said, “the profit is not very high. But the benefit is, we always run out of the product.” Originally published in #iAMHCMC, May 2017 35
MAR
APR
Hanoi Celebrates Women’s Day with Exhibition Devoted to Working Women of Vietnam
Nearly 1,000 Workers from Korean-Owned Bluecome Vina Company Limited Strike Over Working Conditions
OCT
OCT
Rapid Retail Growth Leaves Companies Struggling to Find Workers Across Vietnam
Vietnam to Cut 10% of Civil Service Jobs in Next Four Years
OCT
OCT
Xe Om Drivers Don Uber, Grab Outfits to Outwit Unsuspecting Passengers
Study Shows Vietnamese Women Spend an Average of 4.5 Hours Per Day on Unpaid Care Work
WORKING in 2017
APR Vietnamese “Tourists” Attempt to Find Illegal Employment in South Korea
Sources: VnExpress
36 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
WORKING FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
#iAMHCMC
Is Vietnam’s Silicon Valley Made of Lead? Innovative ideas are one thing; creating solid start-up businesses is quite another. If conditions aren’t right, technology might never gain a solid foothold in Vietnam.
When Binh Tran, the co-founder of the Vietnam/San Francisco-based 500 Startups Vietnam, discussed his company’s new investment ventures, he did so cautiously. No company names were dropped, and when asked about the specifics of one particularly successful start-up venture, he looked away. “Right now, unfortunately, they’re working on stealth mode,” he said. It’s an odd choice, since Tran said the company in question recently earned its largest serieseight round of funding from one of the top investors in the world. Why so secretive?
Starting the Start-Up Atmosphere Binh Tran, who lives in San Francisco and commutes to HCMC quarterly, said that the general atmosphere of the tech start-up world in HCMC differs immeasurably from Silicon Valley. Besides the obvious difference in scale, he also notices a shift in attitude.
“I think there’s a zero-sum game here,” he said. “Because of the scarcity of talent, capital and opportunities [compared to San Francisco], people might be a little more cagey.” Since the birth of start-up companies in 2015, Vietnam’s Ministry of Science and Technology has been vocal in its support. Last year, Deputy Prime Minister Vuong Dinh Hue announced that the government plans to foster one million businesses in the country by 2020, double the number of businesses existing in 2016. But beyond encouraging talk, no concrete plans have taken shape.
According to the Deputy Prime Minister, creating a good start-up ecosystem requires four factors: an effective legal framework, the existence of innovative start-ups, the existence of investors and seed money, and favourable institutions that will foster start-up growth. Binh Tran, discussing the “stealth” company, said, “I think part of it is there’s no clear regulation on venture, so just doing business out in the open can potentially open you up for risk exposure, like theft of ideas and theft of code.” Tran said some companies aren’t just worried about their competition. “The risk exposure when I think about Vietnam is often about regulation,” he said. “So, as long as these companies are following the regulations to a T, and they’re not involved with building products or selling things that are of a sensitive nature, you remove some of that risk. We’re dealing with founders that understand these types of risks.”
Confidence is Key When asked why he decided to help create 500 Startups Vietnam in the first place, despite the challenges involved, he doesn’t hesitate to answer. “After a few months of soul searching and data crunching, I realised that it was a perfect time to invest in technology, and in particular in Southeast Asia.” The increasing connectivity and ambitious nature of Vietnam’s youth didn’t hurt, either:
“Vietnam has the low-cost, high-tech talent opportunity.” Success depends just as much on the climate created by the government. Mai Thanh Quang,
Director of the Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province’s Department of Science and Technology, recently acknowledged that the lack of government incentives and cumbersome bureaucratic procedures do little to help the start-up community. Binh Tran notes, “Ideas are a dime a dozen. Building something stronger is harder.” 37
#iAMHCMC
by Hang Doan
According to the Ministry of Education and Training’s 2016 statistics, Vietnam has more than 400 universities and colleges, three times the number in 1987, and double the number in 2002.
Positive Signs
Vietnam:
Degrees or Career Education? Vietnam’s degree-obsessed society might be coming around to vocational training. High school graduates flock to universities, and after four years in đại học (university) or three years in cao đẳng (college), a new batch of university graduates joins the potential labour market. There is fierce competition among job candidates, but recent findings indicate that those with vocational qualifications are likely to be employed more easily than those with academic degrees. According to a survey by the Ministry of Labour, the unemployment rate of degree-holders in the country was 8.1 percent in 2016 while that of candidates with vocational training was only 1.8 percent.
Among 1.1 million unemployed people in Vietnam, around 200,000 hold bachelor or master’s degrees. Dang Quang Thien, 26, from the northern province of Ninh Binh, graduated from a college two years ago majoring in the food industry. After failing to find a job, he decided to buy a motorbike and become a GrabBike driver. He is among many Vietnamese degree holders who have failed to find a job in their field and end up doing something that does not require academic qualifications. 38 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Why Is it Happening?
Along with other temporary jobs that degree holders do after graduation, many choose to sign up for programs to work overseas. Japan and Korea have become the most favoured destinations. A number of graduates decide to go to vocational training schools or enrol back in universities for a different major. Nguyen Hoang Tuan graduated from the Business Administration Department of Long An Economics and Industry University in 2016. More than one year after graduation, he was unable to find a job. Tuan decided to attend the industrial electricity program at a local vocational school. “When I enrolled in business administration, I was following the lead of many friends, not pursuing my own dream. The more I learnt, the more I realised that it was not my thing.
The reason why Vietnamese people prefer qualifications probably dates back to the feudal era when the biggest dream of a man was to study and take part in exams to become an official in the imperial administration.
“So I think that young people should choose to study something that suits their ability and what they really like, not what others like.”
For centuries this was seen as the only way to success for a commoner, and that it was the most noble status in society.
Vietnam is really in need of skillful workers as the country lags well behind neighbouring countries in terms of labour productivity growth; the manufacturing sector has the lowest labour productivity growth.
That mindset is still very common today.
Many parents think that their children must pursue academia for them to be respected.
Apart from society, young people and their families will benefit from vocational training as they save money by not going to big cities to study in universities.
They are also afraid that becoming a blue collar worker means harder work and less pay.
Mr. Nguyen Hoang Anh, the head teacher of Ho Chi Minh City-based iSpace Vocational College, said: “In a society where people are still obsessed with degrees, those who choose to attend vocational schools should be praised for their bravery.” Vietnamese experts suggest that high schools and vocational schools work together to provide advice to high school graduates about better career path choices.
As a result, there was a boom in university education some years ago as many junior colleges were upgraded to university level. A series of both public and private universities opened up and increased their recruitment figures, exceeding the real demands of the job market. Higher education has become easier to achieve than ever before.
Originally published in #iAMHCMC, September 2017
#iAMHCMC
by Jesús López-Gomez
Culture Clash:
Multinational Working Cultural clashes are nothing new in Vietnam, but they can have unfortunate consequences in the workplace. Pop quiz: if an equally qualified foreigner and Vietnamese employee are being considered for a promotion, who gets the promotion? The Asian employee usually gets held back in this scenario. In Trang’s* experience, it’s a combination of a lot of factors: Western extroversion, their ability to navigate business culture better, the Vietnamese tendency toward deference and humility.
Cultural Differences Trang currently works as a senior graphic designer at a well-known local multinational company that has both Vietnamese and foreign employees. She manages a team of six staffers and a rotating cast of freelancers.
Trang said an otherwise well-qualified Asian employee may be uncomfortable demonstrating qualities that may lead to promotion: ambition, hunger, a willingness to offer ideas and challenge norms. A desire to advance is seen as status chasing and greed. “Even if they don’t agree with their manager about the target or something, they just agree with the boss as long as they pay enough salary.” As a Vietnamese employee, Trang said she’s been taught that pushing against plans that come from management is a no-win situation. A foreign employee is usually received better in these sorts of situations.
Simply put, “in Western companies, you get promoted faster than in Vietnamese companies,” she said. As a graphic designer, she worked for one year at a Western company before being offered a promotion.
“For the expat, they welcome these people to talk to them. For the Vietnamese, they barely talk about [conflicting ideas],” she said.
She explained that a Vietnamese company will typically require at least two years of service before a promotion is offered from an entry level position. At least three more years are required before the same employee is offered a junior management position.
Trang said that in her experience there is a perception that Western staffers are better versed in how to handle these situations.
Anyone who stays after six years is considered a lifer.
A Matter of Perspective
From a young age, Western people are taught to present and own their ideas in a way that Trang says is not asked of a Vietnamese student and, later, employee.
If Trang gives her Vietnamese employees an assignment with specific deliverables, they will usually produce something to her exact specifications, no more and no less. A Western employee, however, might produce something that looks similar to the assigned work—maybe they skipped a few steps because they viewed them as unnecessary—and they may feel free to go over and above the required work because they’ve been culturally trained to be responsive to incentives in a different way, she said. “That makes [an Asian employee] stay in the same position. Like, they do the same work for every month, every year,” she said. “They don’t want to show off.”
For Trang, discussions about work tends to overvalue work itself. She takes pride in her craft, but for her life and fulfilment are about other things than how to generate an income. “That’s the culture of the Vietnamese: do enough, enjoy your life and don’t take work so serious.” *Name has been changed. Originally published in #iAMHCMC, September 2017 39
JAN
JUL
SEP
Starbucks Expands to Hai Phong, the Company’s Third City in Vietnam
State Bank of Vietnam Found Guilty of Violating Protocol
AUG
NOV
Electronics Powerhouse The Gioi Di Dong merges with Tran Anh Digital
Meetings at APEC Produce Multilateral Trade Deal, CPTPP
MAR
Trump
VietJet surpasses Vietnam Airlines on HCMC stock exchange
kills TPP
BUSINESS in 2017
JUL Forbes names Vinamilk Vietnam’s most valuable comapny
Sources: VnExpress
40 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
#iAMHCMC
by Keely Burkey
Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) Five years ago, the FMCG industry enjoyed tremendous growth in Vietnam—around 20 to 25 percent growth every year during the mid 2000s. In 2017, Matthaes saw a meagre 5 percent growth in the market, a figure he attributed to an oversaturation of product penetration in the market. (“After all, how much shampoo does one person need?” he said.)
The Year in Business The past year has been a wild ride in Vietnam’s different markets. Ralf Matthaes, founder and managing director of InFocus Mekong Vietnam, lets us know the broad strokes of 2017, and what 2018 has in store.
Bank Loans “The banking industry is just booming right now because of the huge amount of loans that they’re giving out,” Matthaes said. However, he pointed out that this isn’t always a good thing. “Vietnam has gone from a cash culture to a debit culture to a debt culture in seven years.” In 2016, 40 percent of all urban-dwelling Vietnamese people took out loans, which amounts to between 10 and 12 million people. Anywhere from 10 to 30 percent of those loans won’t be sustainable, something that might turn into a crisis if banks can’t collect. What are people spending money on? The overwhelming majority, 42 percent, were listed “personal goods” as the reason, rather than business (32 percent) and real estate (30 percent).
Motorbikes, Scooters and Motorcycles
E-Commerce The multitude of delivery apps and services offered in Ho Chi Minh City all point to a general trend: the rising importance of e-commerce. Matthaes cites one such example from one of the leaders of the e-commerce industry—let’s just say their name rhymes with “pazada”. “Their growth has been in the triple digits for the past few years,” he said. However, there’s one fly in the ointment here: around 80 percent of all deliveries are still cash-on-demand, which presents more logistical problems than electronic payments would.
Food
Why? A simple reason: “A lot of people have them,” said Matthaes. Although the market is still growing, it’s not growing at rates previously enjoyed. This has led companies like Honda and Suzuki to develop models designed for niche markets—city racers, stylish women and the eco-conscious now have more varieties to choose from. However, as motorbike sales fall, the following industry has fared better.
The food industry in Vietnam is suffering a bit, and the reason might be held in tandem with another industry that’s booming: health and fitness. Vietnamese people care much more about staying healthy, and this means taking a closer look at the food products they’re putting in their bodies. After a few high-profile food safety scares in the news this year, it’s understandable that prices will suffer. But as food purchases drop, this next industry has risen.
Automobiles
Beverages
Matthaes points out that rather than buying a new bike when their old one gives out, more people are switching to small cars. According to his research, auto sales have increased 25 to 30 percent each year, for the past few years. In 2016, 200,000 cars were sold to the Vietnamese public, and this year Matthaes forecasts sales around 230,000 to 260,000 total.
As Matthaes said, “Beverages just keep on plugging along.” He recalls the general trend in the years past, which has helped keep beverage sales on top: first the market was driven by milk, then by beer, and this year the hot topic has been milk tea, a trend pushed forward mainly by young millennials looking for a (relatively) inexpensive treat to enjoy with friends.
What Does 2018 Hold? With a look into the past also comes a glimpse into the future. But what will the year of the dog hold for Vietnam? As Matthaes said, “I think some companies will be chasing their tails, and others will do well.” In particular, the minds at InFocus Mekong Vietnam have high hopes for the organic food market. According to recent research, 50 percent of urban shoppers have bought at least one organic food product every week, a big number when you consider that around 31 percent of Vietnamese people live in cities. As supply starts to catch up with the high demand, this number will most likely increase. Another industry looking to boom: education, and especially English-language education. Although this isn’t necessarily groundbreaking news, the location of it is. With a largely saturated education market in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, Matthaes expects English-language centres to branch out heavily into Vietnam’s rural communities in the coming years: a largely untapped market as of yet. And if he had to put his money on one company in 2018? “I think I’d say Viettel,” Matthaes said after a pause. “It’s a conventional market structure, but they’re just really good at it.” 41
Dream Jobs Employment companies in HCMC use a variety of strategies to find employees to drive Vietnam’s booming economy. By Frank B. Edwards Paul Espinas sells dreams—dreams of better jobs. The 28-year-old marketing director of VietnamWorks oversees the employment company’s campaigns to find experienced workers to fill the empty desks of Hanoi and HCMC’s office towers with administrators, managers, technicians, sales teams and a variety of specialists.
Options Everywhere Every day the VietnamWorks website— known in the recruiting business as a job portal—introduces hundreds of employers to tens of thousands of workers wanting a better job and more money. Like most Southeast Asian countries, Vietnam has an annual 20-plus percent employee turnover
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(the largest job-search surge occurs right after the Tet employee-bonus season). That reality has spelled success for a wave of job sites including Jobstreet, Careerbuilder, HR Vietnam, Careerlink and VIPsearch. The VietnamWorks website receives up to six million visits a month—and adds several dozen new job postings each day, with salaries ranging from US$500 to US$4,000 per month. The site requires job seekers to have a minimum of two years’ work experience. Currently, the company has a database of three million jobseekers. Paul explains that Vietnam’s hot economy is just one reason for the frenzied employment scene. He cautions that the Vietnamese workplace needs to improve its accommodation of young millennials (born after 1980) who make up the largest workforce demographic.
“Employers have to keep their employees engaged,” he says. “Often the expectations of young workers aren’t being met.” Money is usually a key consideration, but is not always the most important.
Playing Matchmaker Several blocks away from the VietnamWorks headquarters, Jon Whitehead sits in a high-rise tower matching managers and executives with corporate employers. Having worked in Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia and Vietnam, the newly appointed managing director of RGF Executive Search (formerly of HR giant Robert Walker) is familiar with hot job markets and has
BUSINESS FEATURE
seen managers jump ship for increases as little as US$100 per month. While well-qualified workers can win increases of 20 to 25 percent, he advises his job candidates to be careful about quitting jobs too often: “You have to educate them that too much movement doesn’t show growth and doesn’t show consistency.” He notes that the supply of Vietnamese managers has grown significantly in recent years but still can’t keep up with demand. When new manufacturing and IT companies come here, “they want a staff right away but it takes a while to produce one.” “Vietnam is a young country, it’s a young population here,” he observes. “They do want to learn. They are hardworking, but it comes down to education. [Working for foreign corporations,] the demands are higher and expectations are higher.” An increasingly important source of Vietnamese management talent is coming from abroad—both from the Viet Kieu population and university graduates who studied internationally and didn’t return to Vietnam immediately. “They come back with a different mindset,” Jon says, pointing to their exposure to multinational corporate culture. But he cautions employers that they are not willing to work for “Vietnamese wages”:
“They want to be paid at the same level as expats.” Viet Kieu millennials often find their way home against the will of their parents, who have established comfortable lives and successful family businesses abroad. One such recent
arrival is a young digital marketer who grew up in Ottawa, Canada, studied international commerce and then headed east, finally arriving in HCMC last autumn after several years working in Singapore. At a recent social event, he moved easily through the crowd of young Vietnamese advertising executives (and hopefuls), speaking English (his first language) effortlessly and offering energetic insights into the world of corporate communications. While he’s determined to be at the forefront of the new IT economy here, he admits that his parents are worried. “This is not the Vietnam they knew,” he says.
Skilling Up Vietnam While recent university graduates and overseas arrivals are adding to the employee base, the biggest source of talent remains within the existing workforce, and that’s where the big HR companies are searching. RGF Executive Search deals with positions paying US$1,500 a month up to the stratospheric salaries of CEOs beyond US$25,000 a month. Most of the jobs at the lower end of that scale go to Vietnamese; the mid-scale positions are split between expats and Vietnamese while upper executive jobs still favour expats with international experience. A shortage of IT professionals is particularly worrying for Paul at VietnamWorks, whose research suggests that Vietnam will need 400,000 new IT workers by 2020. Even now, he says there is a problem because current IT
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professionals lack the communication and soft skills (creativity, problem solving and collaboration) that are important components of the international workplace.
Over the past three years, VietnamWorks has seen the biggest job growth in finance, IT and advertising—the latter two have doubled and tripled the number of jobs on offer. However, 40 percent of its job seekers pursue careers in accounting, administrative office jobs and manufacturing/production. In a 2014 report called Skilling Up Vietnam, The World Bank noted that the country’s 95 percent literacy rate was just the first step to preparing workers for a modern market economy. It claimed that 80 percent of technical and professional job applicants lacked the skills necessary to fulfill the jobs they were applying for—and that white-collar workers lacked technical expertise, leadership, creative, problem-solving and communication skills. Jon Whitehouse, a Brit, and Paul Espinas, a Filipino, arrived in Vietnam by circuitous career routes and both have declared their intention to stay. Jon explains that for expat executives, Vietnam is a career stepping stone and the typical stay here is three years. But some fall in love with the place and have trouble leaving. He’s been here for five years and Paul has seven years under his belt; they have no intention of leaving any time soon. Originally published in #iAMHCMC, February/March 2017
LE MERIDIEN SAIGON 3C Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T +84 28 6263 6688 lemeridiensaigon.com
FESTIVE SEASON 2017
Celebrate Christmas and New Year in style with Le Meridien Saigon. Unlock the Festive Season with our stylish gift hampers, sumptous bufets, distinctive set menus, count-down party, exquisite spa and room package. A TOUCH OF CHIC!
©2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Le Méridien and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its ailiates.
www.lemeridiensaigon.com/forms/festive2017
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RECIPE OF THE MONTH
Spring Rolls with Lotus Seeds The beautiful lotus has a long history in Vietnamese cooking. The earthy, rich taste of the seeds raises these spring rolls to new heights.
Prepare the Ingredients Submerge the lotus seeds in water and bring to a boil until they’re softened but not crumbled. Drain the water through a colander. Cut the carrot lengthwise into strings. Soak the cloud ear fungus in water until it fully expands. Place all these ingredients into a large bowl.
Make the Stuffing Mix the pork, lotus seeds, carrot strings, soaked dried black fungus, roasted peanuts and one egg together with the spices to make the filling; let the ingredients sit in the bowl for 10 minutes to marinate well.
Make the Spring Rolls Divide the stuffing into 10 portions. Roll each portion in the rice wrappers and seal it with the remaining egg, whisked well.
Stir Fry the Spring Rolls Heat the cooking oil to 170 degrees Celsius. Use a bamboo chopstick to check the oil: when it bubbles slightly, place the spring rolls into the frying pan. Use a pair of chopsticks to rotate them on all sides in the oil, so they cook evenly. When the spring rolls float to the surface and become golden brown, take them out and place them on a paper towel to dry.
Make the Fish Sauce Put the sugar and fish sauce into a medium saucepan. Cook the mixture on low heat so the sugar dissolves. Turn off the heat and let it sit until cool. Stir in the minced garlic and minced red pepper, and finish by adding kumquat extract to taste. 44 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
THE GOLDEN SPOON AWARDS
Serves: 4 Cooking Time: 15 minutes Difficulty: Medium Ingredients • 10 sheets of bánh tráng rice paper • 200g pork shoulder blade, finely chopped • 80g fresh lotus seeds • 20g roasted peanuts • 15g soaked cloud ear fungus • 15g carrots • 2 chicken eggs • 750ml cooking oil • 1g ground black pepper • 1g sugar • 2g seasoning powder • 50ml 40N fish sauce • 60g sugar • 25ml kumquat extract • 8g garlic, minced • 8g red pepper, finely chopped • 50g salad greens, chopped • 50g green chilli, finely chopped • 1 cucumber
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EVENT FEATURE
Spread the Cheer:
Your Holiday Guide The holiday season is coming, and what better way to celebrate it than with food and drink? Celebrating Christmas in Saigon’s tropical climate might not bring back memories of roasting chestnuts as the snow drifts outside, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get into the holiday spirit. Take a stroll down Nguyen Hue, check the light displays at Diamond Plaza and enjoy a fancy dinner at one of these choice venues.
Getting into the Christmas Spirit New World Saigon 76 Le Lai, D1 | 028 3822 8888
New World is famous for taking Christmas decorations to new heights, so be sure to stop by to get an eyeful. When you’re hungry, take your pick on Christmas Eve between Parkview, offering an internationally buffet for VND2.4 million per person, and Dynasty, specialising in Cantonese flair for VND888,000 per person. Le Meridién 3C Ton Duc hang, D1 | 028 6263 6699
Starting 8 December, this celebrated hotel will enjoy the start of the holiday season with a traditional Christmas tree lighting ceremony in the hotel lobby, followed by a spirited rendering of “Unlock the Passion”. Exclusive holiday gift baskets will be available in the hotel’s store, starting from VND900,000++, and amazing deals will be available at their two restaurants, Latest Recipe (VND1.45 million++ per person) and Bamboo Chic (VND1 million++ per person). 46 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Bay Hotel 7 Ngo Van Nam, D1 | 028 3829 6666
What better way to enjoy Christmas than in the luxury of a premium hotel? Take a mini vacation in the heart of the city starting from VND1.590 million++, and take advantage of Propeller Rooftop Bar’s exclusive Christmas party, as well as the weekly live music night every Friday and Saturday. Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 | 028 3829 2185
For a fun night, visit Rex Hotel. The Christmas dinner, set at VND2.1 million++ per adult, will be accompanied by live music and will feature chef-recommended main courses and a wellstocked salad bar. The Reverie Saigon 22-36 Nguyen Hue, D1 | 028 3823 6688
In the vein of this luxury hotel’s opulent setting, the holiday season here will take festive cheer to the next level. Cafe Cardinal will have a special Christmas season menu, running throughout December, which will provide a sumptuous French-themed six-course dinner for VND1.488 million++ per person. Plus, The Deli will provide special Christmas treats for all, just for stopping by! Intercontinental Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan | 028 3520 9999
Intercontinental takes the holidays seriously! A veritable smorgasbord of Christmas delicacies await at its three restaurants, including a Christmas Eve dinner at Market 39 and a “bubbly” Christmas brunch the next day, an all you can eat Christmas Eve dinner at Yu Chu and a Christmas Eve dinner at Basilico. With discounted prices for children, and a visit from Santa Claus on Christmas Day, Intercontinental’s various offerings are perfect for a family. La Villa French Restaurant 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 | 028 3898 2082
La Villa is pulling out all the stops for its elegant Christmas dinner. A nine-course tasting menu, featuring culinary gems like pan-fried foie gras, Hokkaido sea scallops and a special fourme d’ambert espuma will definitely be a dinner you won’t forget. Be sure to book this well in advance.
Bringin’ in the New Year SOHY 72-74 Nguyen hi Minh Khai, D3 | 090 330 5999
A great choice if you want a glitzy venue to bring in the new year. If you’re feeling peckish, there’s a VND2.5 million++ set dinner for
two, with, of course, a complimentary bottle of champagne. On the Sky Lounge, you can enjoy the night while listening to DJ Cazzette. Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 | 028 3829 2185
Here’s how to do New Year’s Eve right. At the Rooftop Garden Bar, for VND3.7 million, you’ll enjoy a buffet menu, a free flow of house wine, beers and soft drinks, and will dance the night away courtesy of a DJ and an in-house Flamenco band. Plus, during the countdown party, take advantage of the nonstop champagne toast! Liberty Central Saigon Riverside 17 Ton Duc hang, D1 | 028 3827 1717
For a more intimate affair, check Liberty Central’s Year End Party package. For VND660,000++ per person, you can book a private party room, which will come with a set menu for dinner, customised decorations, free beer and soft drinks and a karaoke machine to really get things going. InterContinental Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan | 028 3520 9999
Here you can pick from a variety of New Year’s Eve extravaganzas. Our recommendation? Check the party at InterContinental’s pool. VND490,000++ per person will get you a glass of champagne and a beautiful buffet. However, if you eat dinner at any of the hotel’s three restaurants, you’ll get free entrance to this elegant pool party. The Reverie Saigon 22-36 Nguyen Hue, D1 | 028 3823 6688
This luxe hotel has a few options for a cheerful New Year’s Eve night. The Long will have a special countdown celebration with live musical entertainment from 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m., and a DJ to carry the party to the wee hours of 2018. And at the deliciously romantic Romeo & Juliet Italian restaurant, a luxurious fivecourse meal will tantalise the tastebuds for VND1.888 million++ per diner.
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