#iAMHCMC July-August 2017- Travel

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TRAVEL n b y Tu

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By Locals, for Locals

Ấn phẩm chuyên quảng cáo - Phát hành miễn phí (nhiều tác giả)

7-8/2017


#iAMHCMC

Editor’s note

Editor’s note #iAMHCMC

By Locals, For Locals

Editorials 2. Editor’s Note 3. Letter from the CEO

One of the interesting things about Vietnam – and one of the things I love most about it – is the multitude of different feelings tourists and residents have about the country. It seems like first-time visitors either adore Vietnam or will never return, and always for completely different reasons. There is no middle ground, including the visitors who fall in love with the organised chaos and colourful nature of everyday life here – some who visit vow never to leave.

travel Features

This is not a country for the weak-willed; this is a country that will test boundaries.

4. People: Vietnam’s Greatest Asset

So, with such a strong, independent and fierce country, why should your domestic vacation here be tame? The conventional trip through Vietnam so many of us have taken (the obligatory stops from Hanoi to Hue to Hoi An to Ho Chi Minh City) don’t do justice to what the country can offer, and it’s for a very simple reason: these cities, the people and experiences don’t take you into account.

6. Exploring the Mekong Delta 8. Eating Your Way Through Vietnam 12. Big Destinations for Your Little Ones 14. Good Music and Good Times 16. How to Golf in Vietnam 18. Camp of Approval 20. Motorbike Dreams: Crossing the Country 22. Reliving the Past: The Historical Route 24. Finding Your Spiritual Soul 26. Walk on the Wild Side: The Sporty Life 28. Fun in the Sun: Watersports in Vietnam 30. Ethnic Minorities in Vietnam 32. Knocking Down Barriers: Travelling with a Disability 34. Airbnb My Guest 36. International Flights from HCMC

FOOD FEATURE

I call this conventional trip “The Vietnam Tour”, and it basically acts to satisfy a traveller’s curiosity about the country. Rather than truly explore and learn about Vietnam, this is a toe-dip of a journey. Perhaps this is why Vietnam has a problem luring tourists here for return visits – a problem competing tourist-friendly countries like Thailand have never had a problem with. What we’re proposing is something different: multiple routes through Vietnam based on interests, not cities. Depending on why we travel (and we all have different reasons), you can have completely different experiences whether you’re hitting the beach with your family, exploring hidden hems for street food, or visiting historical sites to learn from the past. The main goal of this issue? To inspire you to head out and explore Vietnam in greater detail. Hit the Ho Chi Minh Highway, and don’t forget to stop as often as you can along the way! Best,

41. Organic Panic?

HEALTH FEATURE

Keely Burkey

39. Tooth Game: Dental Tourism

ENVIRONMENTAL FEATURE 42. Weathering the Storm: Flooding in HCMC

RECIPE OF THE MONTH 40. Kaya Jellyfish Noodle Soup

TRAVEL ADVERTORIALS 15. Vietnam Wine Tours: the “New World” of Wine 35. Japan Airlines:

Innovation in the Sky

38. Take a Trip to Chicago’s Little Saigon

MEET THE EXPERT 5. Should Vietnam Rethink Tourism? 2 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

Have feedback? Contact me at kEELY@INNOVO.VN Editor-In-Chief Patrick Gaveau

Marketing Coordinator Thomas Kervennic

Executive Assistant & HR Manager Do Nhai

Digital Marketing Analyst Minh Tran Digital Marketing Assistant My Tran

General Accountant Nguyen My

Co-Owner Benjamin Giroux

Content Manager Keely Burkey Visual Content Producer Emilio Piriz Production Coordinator Oanh Tran

BD Manager Philippe Chambraud BD Coordinator Ngoc Tran

Writers Phillip Veinott Dallas Waines Kristian Goodchild Jesús López-Gomez John Brooksbank Rob van Driesum Sivaraj Pragasm Adie Casket Arik Jahn Tom Divers

Online Content Coordinator Sivaraj Pragasm Sr. Technical Officer Stefan Georg Sr. Developer Ai Nguyen Front Cover Tung Dinh Designers Trang Pham Tung Dinh

E-NOVO CO., LTD 42/37 Hoang Dieu, District 4, HCMC | +84 28 3825 4316 | sales@innovo.vn

TRAVEL & ITE (Du lịch & Triển lãm du lịch quốc tế) (nhiều tác giả)

Thanh Niên Publishing House 64 Ba Trieu - Hanoi - Vietnam | Tel: (+84 0 24) 3 943 40 44 - 62 63 1719 Publishing Liability: Director - Editor in Chief: Nguyen Xuan Truong | Editor: Ta Quang Huy Licence Info: Publishing Registration Plan No.: 1775-2017/CXBIPH/28-82/TN Publishing Permit No.: 470/QĐ-TN | Issued on 28 Jun 2017 | ISBN: 978-604-64-7997-0 6,000 copies printed at HCMC Nhan Dan Newspaper Printing Co., Ltd (D20/532P, Hamlet 4, Binh Chanh District, HCMC) No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.


Innovo’s 10-year anniversary

by Patrick Gaveau

#iAMHCMC

Letter from the CEO Innovo JSC, the mother company of

CityPassGuide.com already is Vietnam’s largest

the Golden Spoon Awards (GoldenSpoonAwards.

#iAMHCMC and CityPassGuide.com, will soon

and most informative website for both residents

com). We know too well that what makes

celebrate its 10th anniversary; and it feels good

and travellers.

Vietnam so special is above all its people and

to be where we are now. The dedicated efforts Benjamin Giroux (a good friend and business partner) and I have put in are paying off. The facts speak for themselves: after only 18 months

#iAMHCMC is the most credible English-language publication in HCMC,

Our beloved CityPassGuide.com premium travel guidebooks – the beautiful pocket guides you see everywhere and that most expats and travellers have used before – continue to lead the travel market by a huge margin. Our City Travel Maps are the market leader

cuisine. Unfortunately, these themes lack visible marketing campaigns and agendas.

Together with the Golden Spoon Awards, we are committed to promoting Vietnamese fine-dining cuisine.

in both Hanoi and Saigon as well. Our five-

American professor of international marketing

simply because our content is insightful,

monthly E-newsletter campaigns with a

Philip Kotler once stated, “Why can’t Vietnam,

meaningful, focused and beautifully designed.

subscriber base of 25,000+ remain strong, while

with its reputation for rich, diverse culinary

The regular feedback we receive from our

our Facebook page grows steadily with 400+

cuisine, and a plentiful food source, become a

readers and valued clients is inspiring. Here is

organic fans added monthly.

kitchen or a food warehouse for the world?”

what a Japanese photographer sent us recently via email:

“Dear #iAMHCMC, I was impressed by your last edition on ‘Real Estate in HCMC’. The analysis was excellent and I got lots of useful information from it.” As you may have realised by now, #iAMHCMC simply rocks! And this special summer twomonth Travel edition is no exception.

We are increasing the print run of #iAMHCMC by 20 percent to match a growing demand! Our team of talented working professionals is growing rapidly. We expect to have 32 full-time employees in July, plus the many freelancers we

The growing engagement and interaction demonstrate the value of our content and strategy. We love Vietnam and HCMC. This is why we take so much care to promote it, so you can make the best of your stay. We’ll continue to raise the standard and innovate so that you receive the most relevant information. Video is going to be a big thing for us soon, and we are pleased to announce that a #iAMHCMC iOS and Android app are in the making.

Coming soon is a new Q&A platform with 1,000+ answers to the most important questions on HCMC.

work with on a regular basis. This most likely is

This is all great, but the most important

Vietnam’s largest publishing team for a foreign-

milestone occurred last month, when we secured

owned, English-speaking private company. Our

a strategic partnership with Minh Long I Co. and

Our new objective is to raise the standard of Vietnamese cuisine and to promote it with a single national identity. Mr. Sang Ly, who is behind the Golden Spoon Awards, said, “We as a country have not yet properly introduced the world to the versatility of our food. It’s already recognised that other culinary giants like Italy, France, China or Thailand have different types of food per region. Vietnam is very much the same, but I don’t come across many people who know this.” Yes, street food is acclaimed but fine food has a long way to go. And this essential part of the travel experience makes Vietnam so special. With passion always,

Patrick Gaveau

3


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL FEATURE

by Philip Veinott

People: Vietnam’s Greatest Asset Good Deeds Every Day

The food and the sights are all great in Vietnam, but the real reason to visit has always remained the people.

In Hanoi, there was a story about a foreigner who got into an accident and his employer

Having lived and worked in Vietnam for over

raised some money for him while he was out

nine years, I have travelled to many provinces

of work. He told me that the TAs (teaching

and cities. I’ll spare you the tiresome list.

assistants) at the English centre also put their funds together to help. He mentioned that even

The one thing that has rang true for all of these

though they make one-eighth of his salary, they

places has been the people. I have met so many

all came together when he needed it. Stories like

warm-hearted people who have helped me in

this really makes me love living in Vietnam.

dire situations. Probably the best example? My motorbike accident over a year ago.

The cleaning ladies where I teach work tirelessly, sometimes up to 12 hours a day. I see them

As I was driving, a street cleaner appeared out of

hustling to make an honest living. Their strong

nowhere and caused me to swerve into the road. I was knocked unconscious and broke my arm.

their culture, I can see now that they were just

Two angels saved my life. They took me into

having fun and being welcoming. Vietnamese

their home, cleaned me up, brought me to the

people love to be personable and for me, when

hospital and even paid my entire hospital bill.

they are laughing at me, it’s a sign of respect;

They were some of the most caring people I have met in my life, and they were complete strangers.

if they are silent, you have a problem.

work ethic is something to respect. Whenever I walk by they always smile and say hello. They know I speak conversational Vietnamese, which freaks them out (in a good way), so they are always trying to make me

My friend’s family treated me like I was their very own “American Vietnamese” family member.

laugh with subtle Vietnamese jokes. I was also

I remember every day waking up to fresh coffee

her the next day to let her know that she forgot

and banh mi. Usually in the afternoon we would

her things; he sent her phone credit to her later

Here’s another example of great hospitality:

all have a giant family lunch and just talk – they

that day.

I first travelled from New Jersey to Ho Chi Minh

talked. I just looked at them as they laughed

City with a Vietnamese-American colleague in

at my bald head and hairy arms. I insisted on

2008. It was my first time overseas and he told

paying for their kindness, especially since I was

me to follow him to his hometown in Ben Luc,

staying for free.

Vietnam with Open Arms

Long An Province, around 90 minutes from

reading a post about a GrabBike user who left her pizza and phone credit on the back of the driver’s motorbike. The Grab driver contacted

There are countless people who really care in this country and are truly making a difference every day.

I remember telling them to accept my US$150

There’s a local who goes around District 2 in Ho

to cover any expenses, and they refused.

Chi Minh City to pick up all the nails and other

I realised how important “lucky money” was

pieces of sharp metal on the streets discarded

for children during Tet holiday, so I gave three

from construction sites, protecting drivers from

When I arrived at their home, I was seriously

of the children in the family US$50 each. The

getting flat tires. Simple things like this show

scared. People were just staring at me and

kids were beyond shocked. They went around

that locals do care. If you look closely you will

laughing and I wasn’t sure why. Looking back

screaming and yelling. It was one of the happiest

see the love for others and the love for this

and understanding more about Vietnamese and

moments of my life.

country that people here have.

Ho Chi Minh City. I drove from Tan Son Nhat Airport all the way to a place that I never imagined existed.

4 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


MEET THE EXPERT

by Keely Burkey

Are we doing tourism right in Vietnam? This is the question of the day, and these are the answers given by Patrick Gaveau, CEO of Innovo JSC and Vietnam tourism expert.

#iAMHCMC

Should Vietnam Rethink Tourism?

The typical travel route for tourism in Vietnam

to niche interests and usually don’t receive the

previously seen, or for a traditional beach-

is from the north to the south, and sometimes

same sort of marketing attention.

style long stay. Of the latter, we are seeing the emergence of Danang/Hoi An as a destination

the other way around. How is this style of tourism killing Vietnam’s potential as a tourist

So, you think it’s primarily a marketing issue?

for repeat travellers (more so than Phu Quoc,

destination?

The issue around effectively marketing and

though this is also increasing), though the

I wouldn’t say it’s killing it, but certainly it’s

promoting non-generic itineraries is there, but

percentages are still relatively small. This

restricting the potential for growth. For many

it’s further challenged by the limited knowledge

should continue to grow as infrastructure

travellers, in particular from Australia and other

of traditional travel agents.

slowly improves.

English-speaking markets, Vietnam is still very much seen as a “bucket list” destination, a oncein-a-lifetime trip not to be repeated. For some it is their first trip to Southeast Asia, though more often than not they’ve already travelled multiple times to what we call “fly and flop” beach destinations like Thailand and Bali.

Though Vietnam has some very attractive beaches, it is seen more as a cultural travel experience and it struggles to compete with its more established, experienced neighbours. When the potential of new sites or areas is recognised, these are too often monopolised and destroyed by local interests. What does the current tourist industry look like in Vietnam? If you look at these source markets, you will see they are filled with competing general sales agents all offering what on the surface seem to be similar types of travel itineraries, and they

Many of them haven’t travelled to this part of the world, so they stick with what they know and trust, through a tried and tested product. Familiarisation or educational trips invariably focus on the main highlights of the country through a north to south trip (or vice versa), so they just don’t have the confidence or knowledge to go beyond this. Few tourists return to Vietnam for a second trip. Why do you think this is? There are a host of reasons: the lack of an effective national tourism body to market the destination; the relatively high cost of travel; the cumbersome and expensive visa process; the over-development and pollution of natural attractions; the constant tourist ripoffs; substandard services and a flawed hotel rating system. What other travel patterns or tours should be created to change this and to encourage more

As the number of hotels and resorts increases, so will the competitiveness of rates, along with an increase in international carriers adding direct routes to Vietnam. How can travel agents help tourism in Vietnam grow sustainably? They can market and develop a range of innovative packages specifically aimed at these returning travellers. These could include (but aren’t limited to): special city stays with unique inclusions, like going to the less-visited central highlands region. This could be easily combined with a Danang or Hoi An beach stay or a stay in the country’s far northwest, like Sapa or Mai Chau, which are both easily accessible from Hanoi. Or you could have Mekong Delta overnight cruises as opposed to the commoditised day tours. All of this can be combined with the proper promotion of Vietnam’s best beach locations and advice on the best time to visit the various regions.

return trips to Vietnam, as it is in Thailand,

These more often should be included in planned

for example?

familiarisation or educational trips, ensuring

There are plenty of unique and specialist

There are probably only two main reasons

that travel agents broaden their knowledge for

offerings out there, but these are primarily suited

travellers would return: to visit an area not

use in the sales process.

are all fighting for a piece of the same pie.

5


Flowing 4,000 km through China, Laos and Cambodia, the Mekong River finally meets the East Sea in Vietnam.

Mekong Delta Adventures by Emilio Piriz

The Mekong Delta, the so-called rice bowl of Vietnam, encompasses more than 39,000 square kilometres in southern Vietnam. Here’s our ride down the Mekong’s winding canals. The tough water hyacinth stalks are used to weave beautiful purses, baskets and mats.

The silt of the Mekong River makes the soil fertile and perfect for farming

There’s no set religion in the Mekong Delta. Christian, Buddhist and Cao Dai temples abound.

6 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


Long canoes are rowed adeptly through the hundreds of small canals.

Many houses are built directly on the water – the river is a way of life.

Today, you’ll see many fisheries and shrimp farms up and down the river.

The Mekong Delta is also famous for its people: you see friendly smiles everywherea you go!

7


Eating Your Way Through Vietnam When people go to new restaurants, they ask the waiters about that eatery’s đặc sản (speciality). If you’re travelling around Vietnam, get ready to encounter hundreds!

You’ve probably seen this many times: a person sitting at a metal table at a hole-in-the-wall

The Spice of Life

eatery, face held parallel to the plate or bowl in strong focus. In Vietnam, food isn’t just

However, what is most integral to Vietnamese

nutrition, it’s a philosophy – beautiful, complex

food? For renowned Vietnamese chef Chiem

and simple all at once.

Thanh Long, it all comes down to spices. Chef

And lucky you: you can experience it yourself.

A Family Affair Vietnamese food is not just an assortment of ingredients made in a specific manner. That’s a recipe, not a cuisine. At its most fundamental, Vietnamese food is both an idea and an experience.

Long is quick to note that spices aren’t just used to add flavour.

Spices are part of a complex system of health that’s grounded in the concept of yin and yang, the idea of contrasting-yet-complementary forces that work to make a beautiful and balanced whole. For example, in Vietnamese cuisine, duck is almost mandatorily paired with ginger. This isn’t just because these tastes work well together.

First and foremost, it’s a cuisine that celebrates

“Duck is ‘yin’, or cool, and ginger is ‘yang’, or

the idea of family. As the writers of Golden

hot. They balance out, so that when a person

Spoon & the Quintessence of Vietnamese

eats too much duck, their stomach is not upset

Cuisine point out,

by too much ‘yin’.”

“In Vietnamese culture, the family meal is always something holy. It is not only a place for reunion, but also a moment for connection, sharing [and] warmth that everyone saves for each other.”

Look at your next Vietnamese menu and you’ll start to see this pattern. Sauteed morning glory (yin) and garlic (yang). Snakehead fish (yin) and piper lolot (yang). This delicious list goes on.

No Set Cuisine

Walk around Saigon’s streets at night, and

8 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

you’ll see this happy communion of souls at

It’s a shame just how little the nuances and

many a bia hoi and sidewalk restaurant: large

varieties of Vietnamese food are celebrated

groups laughing, shouting and cheersing over

across the globe. “Before I came to Vietnam,

gigantic, family-style spreads of stir fries or

I had no idea about the food! All I knew was

communal hot pots.

pho and banh mi.”


TRAVEL FEATURE

by Keely Burkey

Mark Lowerson, food blogger and street food

Northern Specialities

people will maybe know about pho, but maybe won’t know the difference between a Vietnamese and Chinese spring roll. And it’s always a revelation.” Even Vietnamese locals have been humbled by the complexity. Ly Sang, who organises the yearly national cooking competition the Golden Spoon Awards, told us,

“I thought I knew a lot about Vietnamese cuisine, and then I started travelling the country [for the competition]. I realised I hadn’t even scratched the surface!” After all, the bun cha in Hanoi is remarkably different from the bun cha on offer in Saigon. Each region lays proud claim to unique styles, tastes and spices. Chef Chiem Thanh Long says, “Nowadays people in Saigon eat less sugar, but it’s supposed to be sweet still… In the central [region], it’s salty and spicy. In the north, chefs try to keep the natural state of ingredients.” And thanks to Vietnamese chefs’ penchant for using only fresh, locally sourced ingredients, a region’s cuisine naturally depends on the

cook up adeptly for Hai Phong’s famous nem ran, a decadently big, fried, square spring roll

tour guide in Hanoi, recognises this unfortunate oversight in much of his clientele: “A lot of

#iAMHCMC

Sapa: Thang Co and Com Lam With perhaps the most unique menu on our list, Sapa’s mountainous region has naturally developed a very specific set of ingredients to work with. We recommend two rustic dishes cooked and enjoyed by the Hmong people: thang co and com lam.

traditionally cut into quarters. Many restaurants mix the crab meat with minced pork, egg, mushroom and onion and wrap this in a special rice paper from Hai Phong to give these heavenly crab pillows the perfect amount of crunch. These can be served as an appetiser, or along with greens and vermicelli if

Thang co is a hearty stew that pairs many parts of a horse (bone, viscera, meat) with a veritable medley of spices like cardamom, ginger, cinnamon and citronella. Making thang co is a labour-intensive process taking at least a couple of hours for all the flavours to blend. But when they do, get ready for something special. It’s typically served with a hot red pepper from Muong Khuong.

you want to make a meal of it (recommended). Once you’re done with your starter, it’s time for your main course: banh da cua. The wide, flat, brown noodles found in Hai Phong are here paired with wilted spinach and morning glory, tomato and crab balls. Over this delightful concoction the talented chef will pour a seafoodbased broth. The flavours are relatively mild, and the textures provide a satisfying chew.

To accompany your thang co, go for com lam, or bamboo sticky rice. Locals fill individual sections of bamboo with rice and add a bit of salt and water, and steam the rice directly in the bamboo, which makes for a delicately sweet, salty and chewy accompaniment to any meal. Grab a piping hot bowl of thang co at weekend fairs in Sapa, as well as Nha Hang Kham Pha Viet (15 Thach Son, Sapa).

Check 264 Cho Hang and 26 Ky Dong in Hai Phong for these dishes done right.

Hanoi: Ca Cuon Thit and Bun Cha On our “spring rolls done differently” tour, we come to Hanoi’s little-known ca cuon thit. This is simply a gem within a gem: at its core, there’s a mixture of pork and wood mushrooms; wrapped around this, flakes of succulent perch; and around this, different types of flour mixed

herbs, spices and produce that thrive in each of

with dill, deep fried to perfection. And when

the savvy gourmand who wants to understand

Hai Phong: Nem Ran and Banh Da Cua

the nuances of Vietnamese cuisine, here’s our

This industrial business town isn’t seen as

list of must-tries in North, Central and South

very touristy, but it has incredible seafood.

We now come to the place of origin of bun

Vietnam.

Crabs are usually on the menu, which they

cha. Part of the DIY variety of food so popular

Vietnam’s dramatically differing climates. For

you add the obligatory fish sauce for dipping? Heaven in a bite.

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TRAVEL FEATURE

in Vietnam, a steaming plate of bun cha will

solid base of this hearty soup is the healthy

allow the diner to create a soup made from

dollop of turmeric-infused rice noodles, with

diluted fish sauce (usually accompanied with

a mad creativity of proteins that can include

pickled veggies), a mountain of greens, a mass

shrimp, pork, chicken, and sometimes fish and

of vermicelli noodles and bite-sized hunks of

beef. Just as likely to be floating in your little

beautiful, flame-grilled pork. The most difficult

bowl of paradise are crushed peanuts, hard-

part is finding the best bun cha place in Hanoi:

boiled egg, a large shard of sesame rice cracker

there are too many!

and, our favourite part: a delightfully fresh and

Ca cuon thit is difficult to track down in Hanoi,

crunchy plate of thinly minced vegetables.

but check Bun Ca Sam Cay Si (5 Trung Yen).

If you want more, it’s time for bun cha ca.

The best bun cha restaurant is a matter of

Danang is famous for its fabulous, fresh seafood,

dispute, but Bun Cha 34 Hang Than (34 Hang

and this is truly displayed by the cha ca (fish

Than) is popular with the locals – always a

cakes), traditionally savoured for breakfast.

good sign.

This noodle soup dish pairs these delicious cakes with slices of lemons and chilies, fermented

Central Specialities

shrimp paste (just try it!), with vegetables like

Hue: Bun Bo Hue and Com Hen

For mi quang, you can’t go wrong at Ba Vi (166

Perhaps the most celebrated food destination

Le Dinh Duong). For bun cha ca, there’s a great

in Vietnam is Hue, which houses a long food

eatery on 109 Nguyen Chi Thanh.

pumpkin, pineapple, tomato and cabbage.

history, deeply intertwined with past royalty. It’s said that rulers in the 19th century demanded a new dish every day of the year, forcing the royal chefs to come up with hundreds of distinct and

Southern Specialities

intricate culinary delights.

Nha Trang: Bo Lac Canh and Bun Ca Sua

The quintessential Hue delicacy remains the

There’s a saying: “If you come to Nha Trang

rustic bun bo hue – not a very regal dish, but

and don’t try the grilled beef lac canh, it means

absolutely delicious nevertheless. As Tai Dang,

you only know half of Nha Trang.” What really

tour manager of Saigon’s XO Tours told us,

makes bo lac canh special is the marinade. They

“The broth is different. For pho, the broth is beef

infuse the beef with a mixture of honey and

or chicken. For bun bo hue, the broth is beef and

spices and then grill this pairing over charcoal.

pork, and flavoured with lots of lemongrass.”

It’s served with bread or raw vegetables.

These subtle differences make for a notably different eating experience. When paired with the huyet (cubes of congealed pig’s blood), water spinach, morning glory and bean sprouts, it’s hard not to order a second bowl. Another Hue dish is com hen, or mussel rice: steamed rice accompanied by tiny mussels, a variety of shredded greens and the obligatory spicy chili fish sauce. Traditionally this is seen as a dish enjoyed by commoners, but who cares? It’s amazing.

Just as integral to Nha Trang’s cuisine landscape is bun ca sua – seafood soup. Of course, variations of seafood soups exist up and down the coast, but few take advantage of the jellyfish roaming Nha Trang’s seas. They’re definitely an acquired taste, but worth trying. To get your fill of bo lac canh, visit Nha Hang Lac Canh (44 Nguyen Binh Khiem). For bun ca sua, there’s nowhere better than Ba Nam (50 Thong Nhat). Bon appetit!

Head over to the very local Bun Bo Hue

Saigon: Com Tam and Banh Canh

Restaurant (19 Ly Thuong Kiet) for your first

Saigon is a bit of a food mystery. As Tai from

course, and then nab some com hen at Quan

XO Tours tell us, HCMC is routinely referred

Nho (28 Pham Hong Thai).

to as “the house of food” with delicious dishes from all over Vietnam. However, there aren’t

10 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

Danang: Mi Quang and Bun Cha Ca

many Saigon-specific specialities. As Chef

One of the most distinctive Vietnamese noodle

Chiem Thanh Long confirms, “Actually, there

soup dishes around, you won’t get better mi

is no food that is typical of Saigon. Whether

quang than in its place of origin, Danang. The

you want to eat the food of Central, Northern,


TRAVEL FEATURE

#iAMHCMC

Central Highlands or Southern regions, all are

vegetables and animals. Take, for example, the

noodles and a lot of seriously fresh vegetables.

here in Saigon. Saigon and Dalat are similar in

always-lovely fried elephant ear fish available

This dish has many changing faces: it can be

that sense, collecting so many dishes without a

at restaurants and homestays.

served dry as well as in a soup, and the additives

typical dish of its own.”

The presentation is half the fun, as the fish is

Bearing that in mind, you can get some seriously

traditionally propped up, so hungry guests can

delicious fare here. Take the quintessential

take the meat from both sides at once. Paired

southern com tam, for instance. While broken

with lettuce and a sauce for dipping, this is

rice was originally fed to livestock, today its

definitely one of the freshest fried foods around.

soft, delicate texture lends itself well to the paired egg, meat (usually pork) and pickled vegetables. Com tam is meant to be sweet, like a lot of food in Southern Vietnam. Definitely

Song Nuoc Mien Tay Restaurant (52-53 to ban do so 18, ap 3, xa Tan Thach, My Tho) has great fried elephant ear fish if you want this tasty treat, and Hu Tieu Binh Dan Ba Sam (188

Hu tieu is another beautifully balanced dish –

Tran Hung Dao, Sa Dec) has been named the

a medley of different meats from land and sea

best hu tieu in Southeast Asia (and a bowl is

are paired with a clear, subtle broth, vermicelli

only VND6,000)!

soak the rice in fish sauce, not soy sauce.

Understanding the Vietnamese Table

Another dish you’d be crazy to pass up is banh canh. With perhaps the thickest of all

depend on each chef’s speciality

You might not be familiar with all the sauces

that it’s easily customisable. If a soup broth is

at a Vietnamese table, but have no fear! Tai

too salty (broths tend to get saltier as the day

Long from XO Tours gives us a briefing.

goes on), add some lime to even things out.

Utensils

Etiquette

Chopsticks are used for a lot of dishes, but

Tai says, “When you’re drinking soup, don’t

you’ll also see forks and spoons. Spoons are

make so much noise. And don’t put your

There’s no “best” com tam, but Tom Divers of

essential for eating rice and even cutting

elbows on the table. It’s rude.” If you’re

Vietnam Coracle recommends Com Tam 352

meat. Use the chopsticks in your right hand

having dinner at a traditional Vietnamese

(352 Chu Van An, Binh Thanh D).

to push the food on the spoon, held in your

house, wait before being served: sometimes

left hand. If you eat rice with a fork, you

elders and men are served before all others

might be laughed at.

as a sign of respect, although this tradition is

Vietnamese noodles, the beauty of banh canh lies in its variations. Depending on the city, or even the restaurant, you can get shrimp, pork or fish cake with it. In the Mekong Delta, be sure to keep your eyes open for banh canh made with coconut milk.

For banh canh cua (with crab), we’ve heard good things about Banh Canh Cua 87 (87 Tran Khac Chan, D1).

Mekong Delta Region: Hu Tieu and Fried Elephant Ear Fish As the farming capital of Vietnam, the Mekong Delta is virtually exploding with delicious food. Here there’s a multitude of everything: fruit,

waning. If you want to show your host you’re

Limes, Peppers and Sauces

a happy eater, there’s no better way than to

Chances are you’ll be presented with a small

eat everything. “Clean your bowl,” Tai says.

dish of limes, banana peppers (spicier than

“And don’t be afraid to pick up your bowl

the red flakes!) and sauteed red peppers in oil.

and drink from it. It means you’re enjoying

Use as little or as much as you’d like – one of

it.” With the food in Vietnam, that won’t be

the great things about Vietnamese cuisine is

a problem.

11


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL FEATURE

by Keely Burkey and Neil Fraser

Big Destinations for Your Little Ones We’re here to tell you the singular truth to travelling with a family: if the children are happy, everyone’s happy. Here’s how you do it.

There are some destinations that, while being

families with fun activities. Here are just a few:

an amazing vacation spot for an older couple

ziplining, canoeing, zorbing, paintball and grass

or a group of young friends, will likely lead to

sledding. Another plus is the management’s

frustrated crying and fits of boredom for your

focus on environmental conservation. Around

little ones.

80 percent of Madagui Forest City is protected,

Our advice? Skip Hue, Hoi An and Hanoi. These cities are undisputed tourist hotspots and add immense cultural value to many a trip. But do your kids really care about cultural value? Will they be listening, rapt and in awe to your tour guide as you walk around Hue’s royal citadel in the blazing heat? We’re guessing no. Why not avoid all that inevitable fuss and choose one of these family-friendly destinations? Here are our top five picks.

Dalat

which means you can hike through real and untouched jungles.

Vung Tau Only two hours away from HCMC, the laidback atmosphere of this classic beach town is perfect for the family that prefers to make its own itinerary. The most celebrated activity here is the Ho May Culture & Ecotourism park (1A Tran Phu, Ward 1). For around VND300,000 per person, families can take advantage of a cable car trip

This city enjoys its reputation for good reason: there’s so much to do here! The trick to travelling with children is to keep them constantly entertained. Take advantage of some of the alternative travel methods available in Dalat: a horsedrawn carriage, or the cable car skirting over the trees on its way to the Truc Lam Monastery are both good bets.

to the park itself, a short horse-drawn carriage ride, access to the waterpark and amusement park, and even the chance to soar on a zipline. On day two, instead of hitting Vung Tau’s beach, which often suffers from unsightly pollution, why not take a trip to the Binh Chau Hot Springs, located off Highway 55 about 60 km northeast of Vung Tau? If your kids aren’t ready to enjoy the peace of a good soak,

Go through one of the many reputable tour

there’s always the feeding demonstrations at the

services (always do your research and make

crocodile farm close by to keep them interested.

sure they have credentials) and have a great time ziplining, rafting, hiking and biking. Most companies will be more than happy to accommodate children. And before you go home, it’s always worth stopping at the legendary Crazy House (03 Huynh Thuc Khang, Ward 4). You and your family will have fun discovering all the twists, turns and nooks in this architectural marvel.

Madagui Forest City

Phu Quoc This remains the prime destination for the more low-key family unit. Snorkelling and swimming at the beautiful beaches are the first order of business here, but that’s not all this southwestern island has to offer. The huge Phu Quoc National Park, which covers over half of the island, provides a great venue to camp in the subtropical wilderness for a night or two. The Department of Tourism has been targeting Phu

12 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

This is just a few hours northeast of Ho Chi

Quoc as Vietnam’s next big tourist destination.

Minh City, near Cat Tien National Park. The

Be sure to take your kids to Vinpearl Phu Quoc

people who developed this 1,200 ha jungle

(Bai Dai, Ganh Dau), opened in 2015, which

paradise made it their mission to provide

includes a theme park, an aquarium and a safari.


TRAVEL FEATURE

Vinpearl Nha Trang

#iAMHCMC

Besides beautiful beaches and the largest

Spend one day at the huge water park and

freshwater pool in Southeast Asia (and the

aquarium, and another day at the theme park.

Built on Hon Tre Island off the coast of Nha

longest oversea cable car in the world), guests

And at night, it gets even better. A huge laser

Trang, Vinpearl Nha Trang has to be seen to

can enjoy indoor and outdoor games and

light show is held when the sun goes down to

be believed. Mega-developer Vingroup set out

activities like beach volleyball, table tennis,

amaze the young and old alike.

to make this go-to destination for holidaying

archery, billiards and cycling. And outside the

families and they did the job well.

5-star resort, the options get better.

For families, it doesn’t get better than this.

Travelling with Children: An Expert Opinion You have the destination in mind, but

aware of how strong the sun is in Vietnam,

as this takes the edge of the sweetness. The

there’s still the actual travelling to contend

and take the relevant precautions – plenty of

juice itself helps replace lost fluids and

with. Driving or flying hundreds of miles can

sunscreen, keep them continually hydrated, in

contains electrolytes. Generally, it can also

be tedious and stressful for adults, let alone

plenty of shade and also wear rash vests when

help to take regular dips in a pool or the East

the more emotional, impulsive and youthful

swimming.

Sea to keep the body temperature cooler.

among us. So we talked to Neil Fraser, the branch manager of Hoi An’s super familyfriendly Vespa Adventures, to find out what it takes to run a smooth trip. What are the biggest challenges to travelling with small children? Safety is always the biggest concern and therefore a challenge for any parent, mainly because of new environments you aren’t familiar with. However, Vietnam is a very safe country, and the locals are very comfortable with kids, and luckily nearly all places welcome children with open arms. Number two would be health issues. Again,

Finally, it’s being able to keep the kids entertained, whether it’s on long journeys or lazy days around the pool, and modern technology can really help out here. It gets hot in Vietnam! How does Vespa Adventures make sure that the children are cool, yet protected from the sun during long journeys? This is real issue for young children and

On Vespa Adventure tours, which sights do children seem to love the most? They love the countryside the most because they continually see the sights and sounds of a different culture. Typically, the countryside people are more curious with visitors/ foreigners than city folk are and go out of their way to try to interact with them.

everyone else, the sun is deceptively hot in this

The opportunity to interact with the locals

part of the world. Keeping regularly hydrated

is priceless, especially if they are kids of

and the continued application of sun protection

the same age. We also encourage kids to

should be emphasised. It may be better in the

try local activities such as noodle-making,

very hot days to wear long trousers and long

and they just appreciate being up close with

sleeves, just in case.

nature, whether it’s at a duck farm, watching

new environments involve different foods,

chickens run around the locals’ houses or

potentially bugs and viruses, and maybe

We would also recommend sugar cane juice,

seeing the majestic water buffalo bathing in

medical care if needed. We all need to be

with a pinch of salt and half a squeezed kumquat

the flooded rice paddies.

13


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL FEATURE

Good Music and Good Times

by Dallas Waines

time. Hoi An is separated into two sections: An Bang beach side and the city centre. On the beach side, relax at the beautiful Soul Kitchen, where you can catch live music most days of the week. The bars in the city centre can be fun and lively, but you aren’t really going to find a real party there, and most places close relatively early. If you want to party, check the hostels.

Hanoi There are thousands of bia hoi, but two areas stick out in particular. The first is Bia Hoi street – actually two streets (corner of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen

You only live once, so make the best of it. Here’s your guide to having a good time all over Vietnam!

Mui Ne Mui Ne is Vietnam’s best town for music on the beach, with several places that play good music

Mot, hai, ba, dzo!

well into the night. Some of the best include:

Vietnamese people love to party. They’re no

Line-Up Bar (122 Nguyen Dinh Chieu)

strangers to incredibly packed beer clubs and night clubs, complete with blaring EDM or Vina-house music. However, if you’re looking for a good party with music more tolerable to the non-Vietnamese ear, the top-ranked places on Google might not be your best bet. Here are recommendations for great nights out in Vietnam.

Saigon Saigon is quickly becoming an amazing party

Definitely the place to go if you want to hear some quality house music.

PoGo Beach Club (138 Nguyen Dinh Chieu) Has a beachy vibe, but serves up great cocktails. There’s also been a series of festivals there recently that are not to be missed. You can check out their next event at facebook.com/ muinemusicandartsfestival/.

Da Nang

in the Old Quarter) – which is livelier in the evening and is intermixed with bars. The other is Bia Hoi junction (Corner of Bat Dan and Duong Thanh), which is better for daytime drinking and people-watching. Vietnamese and foreigners alike love to hang out at these places for hours on end. Once you get your buzz on, it’s time to head to the clubs. Vietnamese love overspending on bottles at fancy nightclubs, and Hanoi has plenty of young people with enough money to show up in a new BMW and buy multiple of the most expensive items on the menu. They keep the Vinahouse and EDM on full blast while the DJ doesn’t do much more than stand there and look pretty. Not your cup of tea? It’s not ours, either. Check these places instead:

Da Nang is a beautiful city located right on a

Savage Lounge (112 Xuan Dieu) The chiller

huge stretch of gorgeous beach. Even its bridges

counterpart to Savage Club, which really

are iconic, with Dragon Bridge breathing fire

gets going on the weekends. Their great craft

Saturday and Sunday nights at 9 p.m.

cocktails are king here.

cheap beers on Bui Vien with Michael Jackson

There are plenty of fun outdoor bars:

Sidewalk (199D Nghi Tam) Come here if you

impersonators. Here are a few of our favourite

Dawn Bar (Phuoc My, Son Tra) Your best bet

want good vibes, good drinks and good food.

and music destination in Southeast Asia. More and more venues are opening up which cater to any type of traveller, whether it be cocktails on lavish rooftops overlooking the city or

spots in D1 that keep the good music going.

for Western electronic music actually located

Definitely has a rasta feel.

Glow (93 Nguyen Du) Great upscale rooftop

on the beach.

BirdCage (Alley 264 Au Co) These guys are

cocktails and proper house music.

Minsk Bar (Ngu Hanh Son, My An) A live-

all about collaborating with local artists. On

Piu Piu (97 Hai Ba Trung) Ever-evolving event

music venue to mingle with expats and locals.

calendar with two floors of music.

The Lighthouse (104 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia)

Hoi An

Great house party style that goes until the early morning.

pretty much any night you’ll be able to enjoy amazing and eclectic music.

About the Author: Dallas Waines is the founder of the Saigon Soul Pool Party. Vietnam’s

Just down the coast from Da Nang, Hoi An is

premiere house music-fuelled event series, SSPP

Indika (43 Nguyen Van Giai) A funky place to

much better known for food tours and tailored

runs every Saturday, from November till June.

hang out in the evening, but closes at midnight.

suits, but you can still manage to have a good

www.saigonsoul.com

14 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


TRAVEL Advertorial

#iAMHCMC ADVERTORIAL

Vietnam Wine Tours: The “New World” of Wine Wine is commonly associated with Europe and Latin America but did you know Vietnam is getting into the wine business too? Neither did we, until we met this man. Wine is something that’s best enjoyed with food on a nice, breezy late afternoon or early evening, something to help you relax.

And unlike other alcoholic beverages, a nice merlot or chardonnay contains a medley of tastes and textures that can be appreciated sip by sip. This is the belief of Raymond Ringhoff, CEO of Vietnam Wine Tours, and the cornerstone of how and why he started his business – to bring wine lovers together to experience the kinds of wines Vietnam has to offer.

The New, New World of Wine “Most people are familiar with wines from the ‘Old World’, European countries,” he says. “Recently, we’ve seen more interest in the ‘New World’ — wines from South America and Africa, but here in Asia, we’re starting to see an even newer ‘world’, and I believe this is going to be the next big thing.”

How It All Began

Raymond Ringhoff and Chi - his grand daughter

By using the wine and travel industries in France as a reference, Mr Ringhoff, who is originally from New York and now based in Sydney, figured that locally produced wine could be an excellent way to promote tourism in the country. That is exactly what Mr Ringhoff set out to do and he hasn’t looked back since.

The list is constantly updated to include new, special, unique tours that combine wine tasting with a totally relaxing getaway. Vietnam Wine Tours’ more popular packages include the winery visits to Dalat, together with visits to the different vineyards where you get

His passion for wine is clear if you get to

to experience the process of how wine is made.

meet him, as he not only dispenses his vast

Some of the more popular wineries include Vinh

knowledge of the different types of wine but

Thien, Dalat Beco and La Dora.

also his experiments on creating concoctions with wine and food – like pairing port wine with melted dark chocolate.

You don’t need to be a wine expert to appreciate good wine. By combining wine with travel, Vietnam Wine Tours targets those who just want to enjoy themselves. You don’t need to be a wine expert

Recently, the company has included wine trips to other Asian countries such as Myanmar, Cambodia, Indonesia and India, and the list is expected to expand to a few other countries outside the continent soon.

Keeping It Casual and Relaxed

to appreciate good wine, you just need to come with an open mind and you will learn much

Wine tasting may seem like a prestigious activity

The idea of Vietnam Wine Tours started as early

more about not only wine but also what this

for the elite but this is not true. There is no

as 2014 but only took off in July 2016, and in

beautiful country has to offer.

sophisticated dress code to join these tours, just be casual and comfortable as you don’t really

January this year, it launched its official website, VietnamWineTours.com.

Customised Wine Tours

Serving as a one-stop shop for all things wine-

want to be walking down a vineyard in heels. The overall mood for the tour is meant to be a relaxing one.

related in Vietnam, the company specialises

With short tours, long tours and wine-and-

in organising guided wine tours to different

travel packages, the website lists in great detail,

Plans are underway to expand Vietnam Wine

wineries around Vietnam, and other destinations

the different itineraries that are available and

Tours’ services to include coffee and tea tours.

around the continent. Each tour also includes

you can choose the one that suits you best.

recommendations on how to pair Vietnamese

The tours are customised, although it’s highly

wines with local cuisine – a unique selling point

recommended that you go with a partner to get

for the company.

the best value for your money.

PO Box 8036, Mount Pritchard, NSW 2170, Australia info@vietnamwinetours.com | vietnamwinetours.com +61 02 9099 5814 / +61 435 558 428

15


How to Golf

Time to tee off! If you’re a golf fan and you haven’t been to these incredible courses, we’ve just planned your next vacation. By Keely Burkey

Beautiful sights… amazing people… delicious

meetings have traditionally been conducted in

food… incredible golf courses?

karaoke bars and bia hoi, who knows? Maybe in a few years the putting greens join the list.

At first thought, “Vietnam” and “golfing” might not seem like the best bedfellows, but it just so happens that this country’s landscapes and current economic growth have teamed up to make Vietnam one of the premier golf destinations of Asia.

Your Golf Tour Through Vietnam FLC Halong Bay Golf Course Doan Kiet, Ha Lam, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Province

This might be why the International Association of Golf Tour Operators (IAGTO) voted the Year in 2016 in Australasia”.

+84 9 1857 8638 | salesta1@huonghaihalong.com huonghaihalong.com | Rates: Not yet available

The good news: this course is gearing up to be one of the most beautiful in Vietnam. The bad news: it’s not open yet. Designed

We talked to Staffan Scherz, the owner of

by Schmidt-Curley with input from Nicklaus

boutique golf tour company Passage to Asia,

Designs, this project includes an 18-hole,

to find out why you should hit the fairways in

71 par links-style golf course on a 153 ha ridge

Vietnam, and which courses around the country

overlooking the majestic karsts of the UNESCO

give you an unforgettable golfing experience.

World Heritage Site Halong Bay. Guests will be able to enjoy training fields, a 2,000 m2

A Rising Industry As Staffan tells us,

“The good thing about Vietnam’s golf courses is they’re all relatively new, so they are in very good condition.”

Laguna Lang Co Golf Resort Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc District, Thua Thien Hue Province | +84 234 3695 881 | laguna@lagunalangco.com | lagunalangco.com | Rates for 18 holes (visitor): VND2,000,000 during regular season (1 April-31 Dec); VND2,100,000 during peak season (1 Jan-31 March)

Designed by Sir Nick Faldo and opened in 2013, Laguna Lang Co between Danang and Hue in

The majority of Vietnam’s courses are less than

Central Vietnam might be the most interesting

10 years old! Besides being new, the majority,

course to play. This championship course was

Staffan reports, are designed to an international

designed with Vietnam’s many landscapes

standard, are exquisitely maintained and

in mind, with fairways that weave between

expertly managed. Many of the best are

trees, over rice paddies and streams, through

designed by famed golfers like Greg Norman,

impressive rock features and along a stunning

Luke Donald and Nick Faldo.

and tranquil bay looking out to the picturesque

Right now you can visit around 35 golf

16 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

clubhouse, hotel and villas.

East Sea.

courses in Vietnam, but expect this number to

Described as the best of the 26 courses Faldo

rise steadily. Golf tourism has become a big

has designed, this par-71 beauty is a must for

industry here, and in Southeast Asia in general,

anyone who considers beautiful scenery integral

so developers are responding. While business

to a well-played game of golf.


Through Vietnam What gives? Let us count the ways. First of surrounded to the east by unique natural forests. Other features include 200 trained caddies, a

Dalat at 1200 Country Club

driving range, a restaurant serving both Western

Da Ron Commune, Don Duong District, Da Lat City, Lam

and Asian cuisine, and a golf shop selling

Dong Province | +84 8 3822 1122 | info@dalat1200.com

internationally recognised brands.

dalat1200.com | Rates for 18 holes: VND2,550,000 (weekdays); VND2,990,000 (weekends)

“I would still call Dalat at 1200 a hidden gem in

Vinpearl Golf Nha Trang

Vietnam,” Staffan says. The designers took full

Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province

advantage of the unique vegetation and climate

pearl.com/golf-courses/nha-trang-overview.html | Rates for 18

+84 25 8359 0919 | v.teetime.vgnt@vinpearlgolf.com | golf.vin-

here and neatly integrated the layout into the

holes: VND2,500,000 (weekdays); VND3,600,000 (weekends)

surrounding scenery. Professional golfers Peter

Opened in 2011, this beautiful course was built,

Rousseau and Kyi Hla Han both had a hand

along with the 5-star Vinpearl Resort Nha

in the design, which, located on a 2,100-acre

Trang and Vinpearl Amusement Park, on 800

lakeside estate, has a microclimate of its own,

metres of coastline on the island of Hon Tre,

with breezes even at the height of summer.

in a bay off Nha Trang that was named one of the 30 Most Beautiful Bays on Earth by Forbes

Sky Lake Golf, Hanoi

Magazine. And if that doesn’t convince you to

Van Son Lake Area, Hoang Van Thu, Chuong My District, Hanoi

visit, this will: there’s a special “twilight special”

+84 24 3371 1234 | booking@skylakegolfclub.com.vn

rate for people who tee off after 2:30 p.m.

skylakegolfclub.vn | Rates for 18 Holes: VND2,520,000 (weekdays); VND2,930,000 (weekends)

Opened in 2012 and designed by An Lee Hwan,

The Bluffs, Ho Tram Strip

all, this Greg Norman-designed course, just 120 km from HCMC, was built along coastal sand dunes that range from 5 metres to 50 metres above sea level. With little vegetation, the sand dunes steal the show, as well as the temperamental, rapidly changing weather. And if you’re feeling rusty, feel free to warm up at the elaborate practise area, complete with short game and long game shots.

Ba Na Hills Golf Club Thon An Son, Hoa Ninh Ward, Hoa Vang District, Da Nang +84 23 6392 4888 | info@banahillsgolf.com | banahillsgolf.com Rates for 18 holes: VND2,815,000 (weekdays) VND3,715,000 (weekends)

This beautiful, rolling golf course was the perfect setting for Luke Donald’s first design project. Rather than alter the landscape, Donald took advantage of the Central Highlands atmosphere to create natural slopes and elevation changes that both frustrate and inspire golfers. The first half is done in a more traditional style,

Staffan calls Sky Lake “scenically one of the most

Ven Bien, Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria, Vung Tau

beautiful in Vietnam”. Just 45 minutes from

thebluffshocham.com | Rates for 18 holes: VND4,252,500

and turns of the surrounding hillside (Staffan:

Hanoi, this course features two PGA-standard

(weekdays); VND4,927,500 (weekends)

“The back nine holes will leave an everlasting

courses with a yardage of 7,625 – the Sky

Here’s high praise from Staffan, who knows

impression”). This must be why the course won

Course, which is open to everyone, and the Lake

what he’s talking about: The Bluffs are

the World’s Best New Golf Course trophy at

Course, reserved for members. The Sky Course is

“probably currently the top course in Vietnam”.

the World Golf Awards in 2016!

+84 6 4378 8666 | info@thebluffshocham.com

while the second half winds through the twists

17


Camp of Approval Why Camp in Vietnam? Travel writer Tom Divers has made camping his business. Now, it can be your pleasure.

Camping is the ultimate expression of independent travel. Sleeping outdoors – by the beach, in the mountains, under the jungle canopy – gives the traveller a sense of freedom and a proximity to nature that no hotel room can ever match.

As a country of exceptional natural beauty and varied landscapes, Vietnam has great potential for camping.

To cater to this new trend, many official campgrounds have established themselves as hubs for urban youth getaways.

Some of my most memorable travel experiences

This is especially true of the southeast coast

in Vietnam have been while sleeping in the

between Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne. All

open. From setting up camp alone under a

within easy reach of Vietnam’s largest city, the

lunar eclipse in the far northern mountains, to

beaches here are scattered with new and exciting

camping with my good friends around a fire

places to pitch your tent (or rent a tent) by the

in a cold Central Highlands’ forest, sharing

sea. Some campgrounds in particular, such as

bottles of rose myrtle wine and watching the

Coco Beachcamp near Lagi or Long Son near

stars, my camping experiences will stay with

Mui Ne, have proved wildly popular with both

me forever.

domestic and foreign travellers. As a result,

There are essentially two kinds of camping in Vietnam: “official camping” and “wild

there’s been an explosion of similar campsites all along the coast.

camping”. Here are some of my favourite places

One of my favourite road trips in the southern

to camp.

dry season is to camp from Saigon to Nha Trang, using the new coastal roads and stopping

Official Camping on the Southeast Coast Although camping for leisure is a fairly new

18 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

at any of the dozens of campsites along the way. These campgrounds usually offer visitors the choice of pitching their own tent (for a nominal fee) or renting one.

concept in Vietnam, it’s increasingly popular with

Depending on the campsite, tents range from

the younger generation of urban Vietnamese,

small, one- or two-person domes for a couple

who are keen to escape the concrete and pollution

of dollars, to large, roomy, luxury pavilions

of their rapidly expanding cities and to travel

which can set you back the price of a mid-range

cheaply and independently of their parents.

hotel room.


TRAVEL FEATURE

by Tom Divers

#iAMHCMC

However, bear in mind that some of these

Bidoup Nui Ba National Park

the jungle-cloaked mountainsides, feeding

campgrounds have been so successful in luring

Fabled for its cool highland climate and pine

amethyst-coloured rivers, where perfect pebble

in the adventure-hungry youth of Ho Chi Minh

forests, new roads have recently opened up the

beaches make ideal campsites. Bathe in the river,

City, that they can become extremely busy,

area to the north of Dalat. Beyond the touristy

light a small campfire, break out the ukulele

especially on weekends and public holidays.

shores of Suoi Vang Lake, a crisp new road

and rice wine, and watch the stars roll out over

leads deep into the endless pine forests on the

the night sky.

Wild Camping in the Forests & Mountains Wild camping is still quite unusual in Vietnam: domestic and foreign travellers rarely bother to carry a tent with them as they travel through the country. But, with the right equipment,

fringes of Bidoup Nui Ba National Park. Find a good camping spot on the soft carpet of pine needles, under the tall, straight, towering tree trunks, and watch the sun go down in the west, lighting ridge after ridge of misty mountains. During the cold night, the wind in the treetops sounds like waves breaking on a beach.

Quay Son River Valley Way up in the northeast corner of Vietnam, the Quay Son River is a jade-coloured ribbon of water sloping through a bucolic valley of terraced rice paddies, bamboo water-wheels and limestone hills, before dramatically tumbling 30 metres at Ban Gioc Waterfall. A weir road

planning, precautions, and a bit of patience

The Western Ho Chi Minh Road

leads over to the north bank of the Quay Son

and common sense, wild camping in Vietnam

Probably the most famous road in Vietnam, and

River, where the grassy, fallow, terraced fields

is superb. Over the years, I’ve camped in many

certainly one of the most scenic, the Western

above the river are excellent for camping,

parts of the country. These are some of my

Ho Chi Minh Road meanders through sublime

affording fabulous views over the waterway and

favourites:

landscapes as it passes through Quang Tri

its magical valley. Settle in for a moonlit night

and Quang Binh provinces, not far from the

accompanied by a hypnotic chorus of cicadas

Lao border. Freshwater springs burst from

and flowing water.

Pu Mat National Park Rarely visited, this part of Nghe An Province juts westwards northwest of Vinh, taking a bite out of Laos. Pu Mat National Park straddles

A Note on Security & Responsibility: If you’re worried about security or local authorities,

the Laos border, south of Highway 7.

try to get permission before setting up camp. Ask a forestry official or a local farmer, for example.

The midlands here, between the Ca River and the Pu Lai Leng Mountains, consist of a glorious landscape of limestone hills bisected by clear rivers and decorated with bamboo groves and

Chances are they’ll be happy to let you camp. UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) is still a big issue in Vietnam. Use your common sense: don’t go marching off into the middle of the jungle. Camp responsibly and don’t give wild camping a bad name: clean up your trash and leave your campsite as you found it.

plunging waterfalls. It’s like a scene from an

About the Author: Tom is the author of independent travel website Vietnam Coracle.

ancient Chinese ink-and-wash painting. Find

Drawing on 11 years’ experience travelling all over the country, his free online guides aim to

a quiet, steamy spot at the edge of the jungle,

give travellers the confidence to explore Vietnam independently, without joining a package

where the foliage meets a stream, and make

tour. He focuses on less-trodden areas, encouraging readers to go beyond the destinations that

camp. Cook up some instant noodles and watch

make up most of the standard south-north itineraries.You can read more about many of the

the mesmerising nighttime dance of fireflies

places mentioned in the article on www.VietnamCoracle.com.

as they flit playfully over the trickling water.

19


Motorbike Dreams: Crossing the Country

Daily Checks Spend a few minutes each day to look at Touring by

scooter

or motorcycle is the best way to explore the many wonders of this country. Sure, a car is more comfortable and provides far more protection and luggage space, but at a cost – staring at the world from an aquarium doesn’t

Want to explore Vietnam? A motorbike is the way to go.

really put you there.

things like engine oil level, tyre pressures and the above-mentioned chain tension. Engine oil lasts longer over long stretches than in stop-start commutes, but make sure it’s reasonably fresh and not too black. It’s the best insurance for engine longevity.

Riding Gear If you come off, medical help is always far away and rudimentary. Padded pants and jacket, proper boots and gloves, and

The climate is not conducive to long trips by

preferably a full-face helmet are the go. And

bicycle, and walking gets you up very close but

don’t forget proper rain gear – ponchos aren’t

not very far.

much use on the open road.

You could cover the intervening distances by

Insurance Check your medical insurance

bus or train, but then you miss most of what’s in between. Convinced? Before you set out on your motorcycle trip, however, keep a few things in mind.

Preparations

policy about holding a Vietnamese motorbike licence or one from your home country. Serious medical attention requires evacuation abroad.

Water The wind dehydrates you quickly, so carry bottled water and drink it even if you don’t feel thirsty yet. Otherwise your body

Type of Bike Any motorbike or scooter is fine for day trips, but on longer journeys, such as a multi-week Saigon-Hanoi adventure, it might make sense to go for chain drive rather than belt drive (as used in scooters and other automatics). Belts are fine around town, but excessive heat build-up over long distances at speed can cause them to snap. With a chain, don’t forget to keep it at the right tension (not too tight or loose), and lubricate it daily. Proper chain lube is almost impossible to find in Vietnam, but really, any oil will do – preferably a thick grade such as used in scooter transmissions. A quick smear of grease works too. 20 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

might cross the “unquenchable thirst” barrier where you can’t stop drinking.

Seasons Avoid the wet seasons if you can (May-September in the South, SeptemberDecember in the Centre, and April-October in the North). Flooded roads are common then, usually not for long, but landslides in remote mountain areas can cut roads off for days.

Navigation Maps are still a government monopoly and aren’t very good. Germanpublished maps are slightly better but they’re hard to get here. See how you go in major bookstores like Fahasa. GPS isn’t always reliable either. Getting lost is part of the adventure!


by Rob van Driesum TRAVEL FEATURE

#iAMHCMC

possible, but dip into the coastal must-sees. For instance, take the mountain pass from Dalat to Nha Trang, then go back inland and dip back out again to descend to Hoi An and Danang. The stunning Hai Van Pass just north of Danang offers unparallelled views. Proceed to the lovely former imperial capital of Hue. Then head back inland to the war museum at Khe Sanh, site of a big American defeat in 1968 similar to the French defeat at Dien Bien Phu. Continue along the western Ho Chi Minh Trail to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, for the

Around Saigon It takes a while to get out of the city and into interesting biking areas. The Mekong Delta is just about do-able in a day, but even then, two or three days are preferable if you want to see village life.

The scenery isn’t mindblowing but the experience will be. Otherwise, you’ll need a week. Go up to Dalat to spend the night (or two). Then take the stunning mountain road down to the highrise developments on the coast at Nha Trang, where you overnight among lobster-coloured Russian tourists. Continue down the coast past Cam Ranh airport to the beautiful new

most stunning limestone caves in the world.

It’s an unforgettable ride over a mostly empty road through hill-tribe villages. Stock up on fuel, though you can get some from a drum at a village halfway. The Ho Chi Minh Trail (there were several, mostly through Laos) is now a good road. Originally it was

TRUST YOUR SKIN TO A

DERMATOLOGIST

a supply route through mountain jungles to ferry war supplies and troops laboriously from North to South during the American War. When the sappers encountered big rocks during construction, they lit campfires and retreated to a safe distance. The Americans would bomb the obstruction almost immediately so they could

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Dist. 1 HCMC

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continue.

road around the Nui Chua Peninsula – ask

From Dong Hoi, proceed inland and/or along

for directions in Ap Gio Ta about half an

the coast to Hanoi.

hour south of Cam Ranh, the turn-off sign on Highway 1 is easy to miss.

Around Hanoi

After that, perhaps spend the night at Ninh Chu Bay east of Phan Rang, with lots of Vietnamese

North(west) of the capital, the mountains offer

tourists on the weekend. Then continue down

some of the best motorcycling scenery on the

the coast to Mui Ne – try to follow the coast

planet, such as this round trip to Sapa:

as much as possible, which may be difficult at times. Spend the night there. Follow the coast road from there via the Ke Ga lighthouse to Vung Tau and the boring ride back to Saigon.

Saigon to Hanoi

Leave Hanoi for Son Tay (highway 32C). Turn left 23km later to Than Son and then follow

“Me, too - All my worldly goods are going to me!”

Your Will?

Specialists in Wills + Estate Planning for Expats in Vietnam

Tel: +84 28 3520 7745 www.profwills.com

highway 32 past Nghia Lo and on to Binh Lu where you turn right and climb the mountains to Sapa. The return takes in Lao Cai on the Chinese border and then you follow the railway

Apple & M icrosoft Exp erts

line down highway 32C back to Hanoi. This is the Big One, 2,000 km (more like 3,000 with loops and turns). A month or more would be good, two weeks is the minimum if you skip many of the sights and experiences.

Highlights include beautiful scenery after Nghia Lo, the most beautiful rice terraces in Vietnam at Than Uyen, and the magnificent climb up the Hoang Lien Son Range to Sapa. Total distance

For scenic delights and peace of mind, stick to

is about 550km. Allow at least five days with

the highlands and avoid Highway 1 as much as

two nights in Sapa.

94 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, District 2, HCMC

21


by Dinh Thinh

Reliving the Past:

Beaches and scenery? Vietnam is much more than that. This country holds thousands of compelling stories. Our historical route guides you to where they’re told. By Arik Jahn When I first came to Vietnam, all I knew about its history was basically what I had seen in Apocalypse Now or read in more-or-less knowledgeable guidebooks. This was both a pity and an opportunity, as I discovered that Vietnam has enthralling stories and the sceneries, architecture and sites to tell them!

Ho Chi Minh City

Con Dao Horror in Paradise Next stop is the Con Dao Archipelago – we can’t let you tour through Vietnam without some quality beach time. And Con Dao happens to be not only pristine, including some great scuba and snorkelling spots, but also a historical site. To cut a long story short: the archipelago was home to the nation’s most dreaded prison during the French colonisation and the American War. National hero Vo Thi Sau was executed here at the tender age of 19. Some Vietnamese think

Get a Subversive Pho You arrive in Vietnam and all you want is a first, authentic taste of the country – in other words: pho.

that Con Dao is haunted by the ghosts of the dead. Before visiting Phu Hai Prison, the oldest and largest prison complex, stop by the adjacent museum to fully ‘appreciate’ the history. The (very affordable) ticket gives you entrance to

But hey, we won’t let you eat just any pho: we

both. Don’t say we didn’t warn you: this is what

start our history lesson at Pho Binh at 7 Ly

people call a sobering experience.

Chinh Thang Street in upper D1, the former hiding place of one of the Viet Cong units that planned the famous Tet Offensive of 1968. While slurping your soup, ask the shop owners about the history of the place and their family. Their English might not be great but you’ll gain some captivating information.

Experience History First-Hand The next day, you obviously do the standards: the Reunification Palace, the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Central Post Office. Look out for an almost 90-year-old Vietnamese man sitting

Case in point: tiger cages. If you want to pay further tribute to the victims, head to Hang Duong Cemetery. The gravestones read like a who’s who of Vietnam’s urban street names.

Hoi An Angkor Not! But Worth It While you are in Hoi An, take a day tour to the My Son Sanctuary an hour west of the city to discover the era of the Cham Kingdom.

in the back of the Central Post Office, Duong

The seafaring Hindu Champa empire had its

Van Ngo, Saigon’s last public writer. He knows

heyday between the 6th and the 15th century

this place like the back of his age-spotted hands.

and controlled all of Central Vietnam. Don’t

If you feel inclined, ask him about the building

expect a second Angkor Wat: this ancient place

and how Saigon has changed over the decades:

of worship is much smaller and was bombed

he speaks English and French.

to ruins during the American War. Invest some


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL FEATURE

by

Hanoi Start Your Tour de North Spend a day or two taking in the ambience of Vietnam’s proud capital by visiting the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Hanoi’s great museums (notably, the Ethnology Museum). Then, go to the historic sites further north. You can catch a bus or a flight to Dien Bien Phu, where the climactic battle of the First Indochina War

The Historical Route

took place in 1954. However, we suggest you mix history with scenery and integrate another historical gem: Cao Bang Province.

Cradle Times Two money in a good tour guide, and consider using

The Better Cu Chi

Located 300 kilometres north of Hanoi along the

an umbrella to protect yourself from the sun.

You may wonder why we didn’t send you to

border with China, the scenic Cao Bang Province

Cu Chi northwest of Saigon earlier on.

is a twofold cradle: first, of the Vietnamese

Hue

The reason: there are better examples of wartime tunnels to be experienced.

The Musts... The old imperial capital of Hue simply cannot not be on this list. It was also one of the main staging grounds for the abovementioned Tet Offensive during the American War. Historical sites abound. Obviously, don’t miss out on the Citadel. Our tip: visit at night from April to September to escape the almost unbearable daytime heat.

From Hue, venture to Vinh Moc, a tunnel system similar to, yet much less touristy than, Cu Chi. It’s in the former DMZ (Demilitarised Zone), a good two hours north of the city by bus or car.

people as it was from here that the Vietnamese expanded southwards several thousand years ago, and second, of the revolutionary movement it was here that Ho Chi Minh created the Viet Minh independence league in 1941 when he re-entered Vietnam after a three-decade globetrotting odyssey. Find yourself a guide in Cao Bang city to go on

It goes without saying that being “demilitarised” didn’t save the area from being bombed during the war, hence the tunnel system that is now more spacious and easier to access than the

Another must are the imperial tombs, the most

better-known one in Cu Chi. Vinh Moc truly

beautiful of which is unfortunately also the

gives you a sense of what life underground must

biggest crowd-puller: Khai Dinh’s tomb south

have been like. There are guides here and a

of Hue. Hiring a guide is recommended.

small museum as well.

an hour-and-a-half journey north to Pac Bo Cave, Ho Chi Minh’s hiding place. Check the newly built Ho Chi Minh Museum. The cave itself is a strikingly simple revolutionary monument. Along with the gorgeously peaceful surroundings, it sets a truly contemplative mood. This itinerary was developed with the kind help of Mr Linh’s Adventures – mrlinhadventure.com.

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23


Finding Your Spiritual Soul Spiritual travellers have existed for thousands of years, and Vietnam has several pilgrimage routes to wow its visitors.

Vietnam has been a multi-religion nation for centuries, receiving cultures and religions from

Religion Runs Deep in Vietnam

foreign countries. Religious followers have lived harmoniously in Vietnam for thousands of years and this is easily observed in today’s society. Meanwhile, as religious conflicts keep arising around the globe, Vietnam should be proud of celebrating Confucianism and Taoism (due to its Chinese heritage), Buddhism, Catholicism, Caodaism, Hoahaoism, Hinduism, Islam and other smaller religous groups (there’s even a Hasidic service for the estimated 200 Jews in HCMC). Despite being known as one of the most atheist countries in the world today (despite deep and surviving traditions of Buddhist, Confucian and Taoist practices), since the start of Vietnamese reform policy in 1986, the state has shown increased religious tolerance and have made efforts to recognise all the religions coexisting in Vietnam.

Before jumping into the places and the facts that make Vietnam a popular destination for holy reasons, we should expand on the importance of religious practices here. As modernity truly starts to sink in, religion and spirituality preserve the core values of Vietnamese society and help people deal with the consequences of rapid development we’re seeing today. Vietnam’s first-time visitors will quickly realise the relevance of ancestor worship and the numerous ways in which the Vietnamese show gratitude to their deceased loved ones.

As a ritual of return to one’s origins, which is focused on the family and community, ancestor worship is part of Vietnamese folk religion traditions and is a widespread practice around the country.

As a result of this, the country is witnessing a rise in spiritual travellers visiting the top

Sneak a peek in Vietnamese homes and you

religious destinations, attending the famous

will notice the adorned altars venerating passed

sacred festivals or experiencing a meditation

relatives. However, the veneration of ancestors

retreat for peace of mind.

goes beyond family and lineage, including


TRAVEL FEATURE

by Emilio Píriz

#iAMHCMC

heroes of the past, local guardian spirits and

Yen Tu

Bai Dinh

gods as well as deceased political figures and

Located 1,068 metres above sea level, Yen

The largest in Southeast Asia, the Bai Dinh

war heroes.

Tu Mountain east of Hanoi is considered

Pagoda (Ninh Binh province south of Hanoi)

the capital of Vietnamese Buddhism. The

is a cultural complex that houses different

story goes back to the 13th century, when

Buddhist structures such as Tam The Hall and

king-monk Tran Nhan Tong abdicated

Phap Chu Hall (the biggest ones), the gigantic

at the age of 35 and decided to spend the

statue of Maitreya Buddha or the 22-metre-high

rest of his life practising Buddhism here.

bell tower.

Ancestor worship plays an important role not only in daily life, but also during pilgrimages to specific sites.

Famous Pilgrimage Sites

He even founded the first Vietnamese school of Buddhism called Truc Lam, Vietnam Zen

Ba Chua Xu Since the early 1990s, the shrine of Ba Chua Xu, the Lady of the Realm near the Cambodian border in An Giang Province west of Saigon, has become the most visited religious site in southern Vietnam, receiving more than a million visitors annually. Mother, benevolent creditor, healer, relationship advisor and business consultant, the Lady of the Realm is one of a group of goddesses whose shrines attract devotees from all corners of rural and urban society. According to the legend, Sam Mountain (An

Buddhism.

During the sixth day of each lunar year, this sacred destination attracts pilgrims from all places of the world as it celebrates a traditional

The Yen Tu Festival takes place from the 10th day of the lunar new year through the end of the third lunar month and has become a big spring festival for Buddhists and tourists nationwide. The pilgrimage route, which winds from the foot of the mountain to its pinnacle, is almost 30 kilometres long and gets quite crowded during the spring festival.

Buddhist festival. Previously, the festival only lasted for a week; now that the state has invested large amounts of money in the complex, it lasts the entire spring. The festival is filled with the warmth of youth, respect for elders as well as the joy of tourists and Buddhists. It’s definitely an experience that

On the first day of the first month of the current

shouldn’t be missed. The complex covers an

lunar year, the site welcomed over 3,800 visitors

area of 700 hectares, and crowds of pilgrims

and expected more than two million visitors

flock around the low and high mountains,

throughout the festival.

woodlands and forests.

Giang province) was once home to many

Did you know...?

invaders who found a beautiful stone statue atop the mountain and tried to take it without success. A little village girl, who revealed herself as Chua Xu Thanh May, told them to retrieve the broken statue and leave it at a designated spot. Today, the statue remains at the same location where the visitors left it and has become a sacred site of worship attracting many pilgrims from the 23rd to the 27th of the fourth lunar month.

Thien Buddhism is the Vietnamese name

This is one of the largest Zen meditation

for the Zen School of Buddhism. King-

study centres in Vietnam, with large numbers

monk Tran Nhan Tong founded Truc Lam

of nuns and monks (many of whom speak

(Bamboo Grove), the only native school

English). This monastery is not only popular

of Buddhism in Vietnam. Truc Lam’s Zen

locally but also among Vietnamese abroad for

monastery is at Tuyen Lam Lake, five

meditation studies as it is under the teachings

kilometres south of Dalat. We recommend

of the venerable Thich Thanh Tu, a renowned

visiting this site by cablecar.

meditation master for many decades.

25


Walk on the Wild Side: The Sporty life

“For me, this is the best solution to understanding Vietnam,”

heavily forested area. “I look for dark green,”

triathlon runner and all-around superathlete

“That means that it’s probably protected land. These are the best places to explore.”

Jean Luc Voisin tells us. By “this”, Jean Luc means mountain biking. And by Vietnam? Pretty much everything that’s not the handful of

Living in HCMC you might not realise it, but Vietnam is actually full of paces to hike and explore. No, really! Read on.

major cities dotting the length of this beautiful country.

Spirit of Exploration

he says.

Some of his favourite haunts include Dak Lak Province, and especially the Buon Ma Thuot area, where he goes hiking, running, mountain biking, canoeing and rafting; along the Dong Nai river around Cat Tien National Park; and Thanh Da Island in the heart of HCMC, where

It’s the vast distances of rural farmland and

he goes running with friends a few times a week.

small villages where Jean Luc and his friends feel most at home (“When we go on these trips, people call us the French Legion,” he jokes). For most people the idea of tackling a dense jungle armed with only a GPS and a first-aid kit might seem, at best, unappealing, but for Jean Luc, it’s precisely this that makes Vietnam so breathtaking – especially for athletes. What does he find so unique about hiking and mountain biking in Vietnam? “It’s the rainy forests. The jungle. I’ve been exploring areas for 15 years, and I always find new tracks.” However, Jean Luc’s adventurous streak doesn’t end with running and mountain biking. If there’s a rock face to climb or a river to kayak or raft down, chances are he’s either heard about it or experienced it himself. So how does he pick where his next adventure will be?

26 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

Explore Safely Even though you’ll likely never meet a man as adventurous as Jean Luc Voisin, he’s the first to recognise the dangers involved with exploring the wild side of Vietnam.

“Running is quite difficult here,” he admits. “You have to take care. I always advise the young people coming from Europe, ‘Don’t forget to take water’. You sweat a lot. The temperature of your body is going up, and normally you sweat and the evaporation cools your body down. But there’s no cooling here. You just sweat.” Here’s Jean Luc’s pro-tip: grab some coconut water, which does a great job replenishing lost fluids and electrolytes. And then there’s the actual environment. In the

Jean Luc pulls out his mobile phone and opens

forests you’re likely to run into all manner of

it up to Google Maps. Focusing on a random

insects and animals, along with unmaintained,

region of Vietnam, he points to a dark green,

wild trails.


TRAVEL FEATURE

by Keely Burkey

#iAMHCMC

Not to scare you too much, but also be aware

Black Virgin Mountain

country has to offer. If you’re feeling incredibly

that UXOs (unexploded ordnance from the

Good for: Hiking

ambitious you can tackle the two-day journey

American War) might also be hiding in a

How to get there: From HCMC, many either

up Mt Fansipan, Vietnam’s tallest mountain

seemingly benign bush. Finally, don’t forget

drive their own motorbikes or take one of the

(3,143 metres).

the first-aid kit and mosquito spray.

several buses going daily.

Four Places to Explore

Only about 100 km from HCMC, the Black

Hoa Valley, hiking the beautiful Tram Ton

Virgin Mountain in Tay Ninh Province, an

Pass (1,900 metres) and exploring the different

extinct volcano that’s the highest point in

H’mong and Red Dao villages that you’ll meet

Southern Vietnam, is an ideal daytrip or one-

along the way.

Cat Tien National Park Good for: Trekking, hiking, mountain biking, kayaking How to get there: From HCMC, it’s three to four hours by motorbike. You can also take a bus going from HCMC to Dalat; you’ll be dropped off at the Ta Lai/Nam Cat Tien turn-off. Just a relatively short distance from HCMC, the massive Cat Tien National Park offers a great experience for just about anyone: nature lovers, the spiritual-minded and rugged adventurers. There are dozens of paths to choose from and plenty of opportunities to arrange a

night camping trip for anyone who has to get to work on Monday. There’s a cable car ascending this steep and delightfully perilous slope, but the mix of steep stairs and off-road hiking will keep hikers entertained for hours. Jean Luc agrees that this is a trip worth taking, but regretfully admits that it’s polluted and unkempt now. Expect to see water bottles, food wrappers and everything else you can discard along the way to the Linh Son Thien pagoda near the summit.

kayaking trip or bike expedition with one of

Sapa

the homestays in the area (we recommend Ta

Good for: Trekking, hiking, camping, mountain

Lai Longhouse). If you get tired of hiking and

biking

biking, you can also spend some time looking

How to get there: Fly to Hanoi and take either

at some of WWF-protected animals in the

a bus or the overnight train to Lao Cai. If you

area. Seeing gibbons swinging from trees is

take the train, keep in mind that you’ll need

something you don’t want to miss.

to arrange for a transfer to Sapa, usually in a

Did we mention this is a real jungle? Here are

Other options include exploring the Muong

minibus.

a few tips: bring mosquito repellent, leech-

Simply put, Sapa and the surrounding areas

resistant socks (these suckers can bite through

in Lao Cai Province in Vietnam’s northwest

light shoes and socks) and a GPS.

mountains are the best trekking destination this

Cao Bang Good for: Hiking, trekking, camping, mountain biking How to get there: With no railway reaching that far, your best bet will be a bus. The four- to five-hour journey from Hanoi will cost around VND300,000. If you want to explore the north on foot but don’t want to tread the much-trodden Sapa route, Cao Bang is for you. Resting along the edge of the Chinese-Vietnamese border, you’ll get to explore green, awe-inspiring natural beauty and have fun in the process. One of the major attractions at Cao Bang is the Ban Gioc waterfall, famous for being the fourth-tallest cascade in Vietnam. Also make sure to walk to Thang Hen Mountain lake, which consists of dozens of smaller lakes flowing through limestone formations. And if spelunking is your thing, you’ll love Nguom Ngao cave near Ban Gioc. You won’t be disappointed.

Image by Vietnam Mountain Bike Marathon

27


Fun in the Sun: Watersports in Vietnam Like the water? Then you’re in luck: Vietnam has some of the best watersport conditions you can find.

Vietnam’s coastline has something for everyone,

Suoi Nuoc

whether it is for windsurfing, kitesurfing,

Experienced/intermediate riders: kitesurfing,

catamaran sailing, stand up paddle surfing

windsurfing, surfing, catamaran sailing,

(SUPing), surfing, sea kayaking or even diving.

SUPing

Where are the best spots and what can you

Suoi Nuoc has very similar wind and wave

expect to find?

conditions to Hon Rom but even more space

Note:

on the water. Some fun surf breaks in the early

High season: November/December to April/May (best time of year for great wind conditions) Low season: May to November (conditions are still good for learning and riding but the wind may not be as frequent)

Phan Thiet Region

morning and strong, clean wind in the late morning and afternoon. Full Moon Village Resort is a great water sport outlet. Contact them first to confirm your equipment needs (windsurfing, kitesurfing, catamarans, kayaks, surfboards and SUPs). From Mui Ne Main Beach it takes about 25 minutes by scooter or you can get the local

Mui Ne (Main Beach)

bus which will deliver you to the doorstep of

Kitesurfing, windsurfing, sailing, SUPing,

Full Moon Village (US$1).

surfing and sea kayaking This is probably the best known location in Vietnam for water sports. Mui Ne’s Main Beach (the Ham Tien strip) provides most of the action with an abundance of water sport schools mainly focusing on kitesurfing, and a couple of more specialist clubs offering catamaran sailing, windsurfing, surfing and SUPing.

Pros: Lots of space to ride, good-size waves breaking further out. Cons: Not so suitable for beginners on the stronger days.

Turtle Island Experienced riders: kitesurfing, windsurfing

For monohull sail boats, check Manta (www.

North of Suoi Nuoc (about 5 minutes by scooter)

mantasailing.org). Most of the kitesurf action is

is a location called Turtle Island. Despite the

towards the south end of the strip. Jibe’s Beach

name, you ride from the mainland.

Club has been teaching new kitesurf, windsurf, sailing and surf students since 2000 and has great reviews. Pros: Lots of schools, large choice of accommodation both on and off the beach, lots of riders (safety in numbers), perfect wind

28 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

Local bus departs every 15 minutes.

Although you can find some flat water conditions, this spot is recommended for experienced riders only. Unfortunately there are no water sport outlets, so bring everything you need. Cross onshore wind direction with sandy bottom and no reef.

direction.

Pros: Some flat water options, never crowded,

Cons: Lots of riders (can get a little busy

options to ride downwind to find some wave

especially at the southern end of the strip), there

action.

can be a bit of a beach break (waves breaking

Cons: No storage options, no water sport

in shallow water close to the shoreline).

centres nearby.


TRAVEL FEATURE

by Adie Casket

#iAMHCMC

Little Buddha/Sealinks

kitesurfers. You will be riding over reef and tide

There are a couple of resorts with some basic

Surfing

heights can change, so be sure to check the tide

equipment, but if you are serious about your

Little Buddha, mainly known for its clean

charts before you arrive. Many bays in the area

hobby, take your own equipment or rent from

peeling waves, is the perfect place for beginner

are supervised by the military, so stick to the

Mui Ne. Private day tours can be arranged

surfers as well as intermediates. What makes the

recognised water sports areas. If you are looking

through Jibe’s Beach Club.

wave here so special is its predictability. Surf

for a kite tour or you want to stay there for a

lessons and rental are available at a number of

longer period, contact Phi’s Kite Adventures,

schools. Buddha is a very small bay and really

www.phikiteadventures.com. Jibe’s Beach Club

only suited to surfers and SUPs as it can get

offers windsurfing day tours from Mui Ne to

quite crowded.

Phan Rang including full equipment.

Pros: Clean waves peeling left, no reef and an

Pros: Flat water and waves available, strong,

easy to find location.

clean wind.

Cons: Can get overcrowded, better get there

Cons: Riding over reef, certain areas are

before late afternoon.

restricted.

Phan Rang and Surrounding Areas

Ke Ga and Surrounding Area

Windsurfing, kitesurfing, surfing

Kitesurfing, windsurfing

Only recently discovered, the areas around Phan

Get away from the crowds at Ke Ga

Rang offer strong cross onshore wind during

(approximately 1 hour’s travel time from Mui

If you have the time, the skill and the sense

the high season. Most of the locations are only

Ne), which has some great conditions for the

of adventure, why not hit the road and make

suitable for experienced riders, but with the

experienced kiter or windsurfer. Open ocean

your very own discoveries? If you are the first,

correct supervision it may be possible for new

means deep water and some wave action.

just maybe you get to name your discovery.

Pros: You will have the water to yourself, good size waves for the experienced rider. Cons: Very limited equipment outlets, no supervision if you have a problem.

Diving For diving around Vietnam, check Rainbow Divers, a safe, professional service with a number of locations around the country, www. divevietnam.com.

And Even More… Mui Ne might be the capital of watersports in Vietnam, but the 3,000 km of coast in Vietnam has a lot more to offer. Here are some other options for watersport connoisseurs in Vietnam.

Phu Quoc

Con Dao

Nha Trang

This island paradise offers more than just

The very chill island of Con Dao will be a good

No watersports list would be complete

beaches and fish sauce. Snorkeling, scuba

fit for the traveller who wants to enjoy the

without Nha Trang. Dozens of diving

diving and freediving are the sports to focus

beach as much as the water. Diving is the thing

companies dot the beaches, but that’s not

on here. Water explorers will be able to

to do here, and the payoffs for your efforts

the only thing you can do here.

see fish and coral reefs with help from

are amazing. Get in touch with Con Dao Dive

companies like Flipper Diving Club (60

Center (Khu 7, Vo Thi Sau, Con Son Island)

Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc) and Rainbow

and Dive! Dive! Dive! (Nguyen Hue Street, Con

Divers (11 Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc).

Dao Island) to start your adventure.

Other sports include flyboarding (literally propelling yourself into the air with water), windsurfing, kayaking and parasailing.

29


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL FEATURE

by John Brooksbank

Ethnic Minorities in Vietnam The many ethnic minorities in Vietnam don’t exist in a vacuum – they add colour and history to a vibrant, diverse country. The Government of Vietnam officially recognises 54 different ethnic groups in the country, or 53 who are not Kinh, also known as the Viet, who comprise approximately 90 percent of the nation’s more than 95 million people.

Ethnic groups are classified as being members of one of eight language ‘families’ – Han, Mong-Dao, TibetoBurman, Austroasiatic, Tay Thai, Kadai, Malayo-Polynesian or the majority Vietic speaking peoples. While some ethnic minority groups are struggling to maintain traditional culture amid an influx of mainstream Vietnamese and Western influences, many ethnic groups are relatively easy to recognise, having maintained

have a violent history of warfare, maintain traditional rituals – and have a penchant for drinking rice wine at ceremonies and any other suitable occasion! World-recognised travel photographer Réhahn, a resident of the historic city of Hoi An, has made documenting the many different cultures in Vietnam a life passion. As Réhahn notes, “[Most ethnic minorities] live in communities

for example, are thought to have arrived on

where family and group have central roles in

Vietnamese soil only about 300 years ago,

daily life. They are curious about other ethnic

whereas the Tay arrived around 500 AD and

groups. For example, when Co Tu people visit

now live in the north-eastern provinces of Cao

the museum, they use words like brother to talk

Bang, Lang Son, Bac Kan, Quang Ninh and

about other groups, as if belonging to an ethnic

Ha Giang.

group versus the Kinh made them feel closer.” Check out Réhahn’s stunning gallery, Couleurs d’Asie (151/7 Dong Khoi), to get a closer look.

However, they also differ in many ways, due to unique histories and the need to adapt to different environments.

their unique languages, culture, lifestyle and particularly traditional, colourful styles of dress. The largest of the minority groups is the Tay,

Ethnic Minorities in Many Colours

followed by the Thai, Muong, Khmer Krom,

Through his camera lens Réhahn has captured this diversity. “The Red Dao’s tradition of shaving their hair and eyebrows gives them an intense style and visually interesting faces. They also have impressive costumes which take up to six months to complete.” He adds, “They are surpassed only by the Lo Lo Hoa. It takes up to a year to sew more than 4,000 little triangles into their dress. Then there is the Co Tu dance – gracious, poetic and joyful, with the gong giving it a real intensity. I’ve seen

Hoa, H’mong, Nung and many others. In a

Their diversity is perhaps most pronounced in

it many times at the Co Tu Night Festival; I’d

general sense these groups share a rural lifestyle,

the Northern Highlands. The H’mong people,

love other people to see it too.”

30 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


#iAMHCMC

The Thai ethnic minority

“For example the Quang Nam of

are the second-largest ethnic

Hue province are active. Northern

minority in the country. The

groups have proven that there is an

White Thais live mainly in Lai Chau

interest from foreigners in tribal culture; now people have to realise that ethnic groups

and Lao Cai provinces, while the Black Thais can be found more in the provinces

are found everywhere in Vietnam, and some have

of Son La and Mai Chau. They are known

only few hundred members.” An example of these

for their beautifully woven garments and other accessories, and they live in stilt houses designed to protect residents from possible flooding and dangerous animals, as well as to provide shelter for their domestic animals.

Women of the Red Dao sub-group are easily identifiable by their triangular red turbans or scarves decorated with silver coins and red tassels. The men usually wear long pants, shirts and headscarves.

Black Thai women wear green, blue, pink or purple blouses with a distinctive row of buttons, a black skirt and black scarf.

The Importance of Tourism Various NGOs provide support for community-

ancient legends and love to sing and perform

based tourism that involves local ownership

folk dances known as Xoe, Sap and Han

and management, offering tourists the chance

Khuong. Their customs include the practice

to learn about and experience the culture, work

that a husband lives in the house of the family

environment and lifestyle of local villages.

in with his family – a lesson for us all, perhaps!

Fortuitously, the regions that are home to many ethnic minorities have breathtaking landscapes,

The approximately 600,000 Dao, known as

spectacular rice terraces, limestone mountains

jungle people, originally came from southern

and impressive waterfalls that make them ideal

China hundreds of years ago. Their religious

locales for sustainable eco-tourism activities.

beliefs include elements of Confucianism,

Réhahn has seen this during his photographic

Buddhism and Taoism.

travels.

They are divided into smaller sub-groups – Dao with white trousers, Dao with narrow trousers, Dao with coins, Dao with blue clothes and similar descriptive titles.

Challenge in May this year, which, apart from cycling in Sapa, had participants interacting with communities and carrying out a day of voluntary work that directly benefited a local village. A number of tour companies now organise

Thai people have a great heritage of myths and

of his wife until a baby is born, before moving

efforts was the first Hoang Su Phi Mountain Bike

trips to the more remote areas of the country relying on homestays with local ethnic families. For example, Mr Linh’s Adventures Travel Company, based in Hanoi, has a range of tours that focus on the Ba Be National Park, home to Tay, Dao and Hmong ethnic groups. All of his five to 21-day trekking, caving, rock climbing, kayaking, fishing and boating tours include basic but comfortable homestays in local villages.

”I believe the best way to protect ethnic groups is to promote them outside their community, to create a sense of pride and make them realise the value of their heritage,” he says.

31


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL FEATURE

by Jesús López-Gomez

Knocking Down Barriers: Travelling with a Disability Tourism might be booming in Vietnam, but it’s not equal-access. Some people are working to change this. Dutch travellers Marianne Bukman and her husband Kees Bukman ended up in Saigon the way many people do.

“Everyone said, ‘Vietnam!? Why Vietnam?’” Kees recalled. “I said, ‘Well, why not?’” Their cavalier manner belies a very specific and obvious obstacle. While Kees spoke seated at a table in a chair, Marianne was sitting on the opposite side in her wheelchair, a necessary aid given the severity of her multiple sclerosis. “Of course, yes. People stare sometimes,” he said. “But they’re very friendly in general.”

“What I hate most is if they ignore you. If I’m pushing her and they start asking me about her, that’s the most annoying,” he said. “They ask him everything and they ignore me,” Marianne said with a laugh. “You have to treat the disabled as normal people,” her husband added.

Cross-Country Travel

A cruise on a ship would be an easy way for Marianne and her husband to get out of the

The couple spent 10 days on a tour with Roll in Asia, an agency that specialises in serving travellers with a disability. It included stops in Hanoi, Halong Bay and Nha Trang before arriving in Ho Chi Minh City. The group had toured the highlights including the Reunification Palace, Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica and Ben Thanh Market.

Netherlands. “But it’s not adventurous,” Kees said. “We said we have to search for something different because I’m not going to spend the rest of my life cruising.” Which is why “each trip is tailor made”, Roll in Asia cofounder Charlotte Jean said, describing a lengthy and in-depth planning process between her firm and a prospective traveller to identify

The couple reported their favourite part of the trip so far was dining on the local cuisine.“Every time, new flavors. That’s the basic highlight of the trip. And then to meet all the friendly people of Vietnam,” he added. Before Marianne’s multiple sclerosis limited her mobility, the couple travelled extensively. In the late ’80s, the couple visited Cuba, a nation which they said at the time bore striking similarities to modern-day Vietnam.

While the couple was seeking something that would be appropriate for Marianne’s abilities, they also worried that agencies serving travellers with a disability might be too dull.

limitations, medical needs and any other necessary modifications for a traveller with a disability. “Every trip is different, every concern is different.”

Barrier-Free Travel? The Bukmans’ travel through Asia and the availability of services through companies like Jean’s represents an important step forward in what the United Nations calls “barrierfree travel” – tourism for a population with a disability. In a 2003 report, the UN cited a lack of facilities, resources and even a dearth of data related to travellers who had a disability. The report didn’t cite Vietnam specifically, but said that attitudes about disabilities tend to vary

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32 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


TRAVEL FEATURE

#iAMHCMC

throughout the Southeast Asia region and that a

rigorously to make sure that the facilities can

lack of awareness towards those seeking barrier-

meet the travellers at their specific ability.

free travel can engender indifference.

Kees affirmed Roll in Asia’s unique, tailor-made

Jean vehemently disagreed that the Vietnamese

approach to travel planning. Not even everyone

lacked compassion towards those with a

in a wheelchair has the same ability, and this

disability.

must be taken into account. “One thing for Marianne is that she gets tired very easily. But

“No, I don’t agree with this,” she said. “People are very helpful. They’re actually too helpful.”

I see other guys who are very strong and they’re just wheeling around. Their main obstacle is just the pathways and the potholes.”

Rather than neglecting her travellers, she said

“Every disability is different,” he said. But “they want to be treated like normal [people].”

the level of hospitality was always exceptional, almost to an etiquette-breaking point. Take, for instance, the lack of handicap ramps. Jean said she’s had to stop people from physically

Kees said pedestrian and wheelchair-friendly

carrying a traveller with a disability.

areas were a big concern for him and his wife. “The sidewalks are terrible, and the traffic is,

“There is this big misconception between what

uh, a lot,” he said.

is possible, and what is fine,” she said. So, “if the person has to be carried like a baby during

enough handicap-friendly spaces and activities

But the couple said there’s an idiosyncratic

the whole holiday, that’s not nice.”

to create a journey for their clients. Since the

rhythm to how things are ordered in Vietnam

business’ creation two years ago, Jean and

that accommodated them nicely while they were

her cofounder Clément Abalea have traveled

here. For example, while the drivers appear to

throughout Vietnam identifying a chain through

have their own rules sometimes,

In a by-any-means environment like Saigon, where any street corner is just a few plastic stools and a soup pot away from becoming an open-air cafeteria, Jean said that sensibility can translate to gestures that seem helpful but read less warmly to a traveller with a disability.

Vietnam that would create the most accessible route for travellers with a disability. “At the end of the day, we can have a full and complete trip,” she said. Her agency offers tours

Equal Travel Opportunities, Everywhere

for visitors going through Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Hoi An, Hue, Nha Trang and of course Ho Chi Minh City.

“if you know that rule and just take care of yourself, they afford you,” Kees said. Before they set off for Vietnam, the couple showed their itinerary to their son. He too had travelled through Southeast Asia and visited the same sights. The Bukmans said their son

In lieu of broadly available handicap resources,

Wheelchair accommodation ties into what Jean

registered some surprise when he was told all

Jean said she and her partner have instead

said is a top concern for those travelling with

of this could be done while travelling with a

worked with existing facilities to identify

a disability: hotels. Her firm assesses hotels

disability.

33


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL FEATURE

by Sivaraj Pragasm

Airbnb My Guest

well-taken photos and descriptions of their listings, and going the extra mile by giving local recommendations on places to visit and things to do. Guidebooks often give you recommendations that are tourist-friendly but may be slightly pricier, so you will never get to know about that particular com tam stall down your street which the locals swear is the best in Vietnam.

The Perfect Mix According to Forbes Magazine, one of the main reasons why the Airbnb model is working so by Thi Nguyen

well in Vietnam, and especially in Ho Chi Minh City, is because it conveniently incorporates a perfect mix of Vietnamese culture in the form

The rapid rise of Airbnb in HCMC took the city by storm. Here’s how it happened. When Airbnb first appeared elsewhere in 2008, it created a new alternative for travellers seeking

A Fresh Tourism Industry with Potential

a nice, personalised home in non-touristy parts of the city they were visiting. However, the idea of home-sharing came with concerns, mainly from homeowners who weren’t too sure if it was a good idea. After all, not everyone is comfortable having a stranger in their home. Here in Vietnam, things took a while to warm up but by 2016, the number of listings in Ho Chi Minh City alone tripled from the previous year with up to 3,500 listings across the city. So, how did that happen?

A Natural Extension to a Local Concept Thi Nguyen, who runs a few listings of her own in Ho Chi Minh City, sees Airbnb as a natural extension to the Vietnamese homestay concept. “It’s an opportunity to showcase our living and cultural abode to our visitors,” she says.

“So what we give is more than just a room for the night. It’s an experience which you can’t get in most hotels.” Originally from Hanoi, Thi moved to Saigon eight years ago and runs her own events company. Needing funds to feed her passion

“Vietnam’s tourism industry is very fresh compared to most other countries in Asia, which brings about both opportunities and challenges,” says Thi. This sentiment is reflected by Hue-born Tai Phan, who spent the last few years working and studying in both the United States and Vietnam, specialising in finance and real estate investment before relocating to Da Nang where he decided to start his Airbnb venture. “I was back in Vietnam consulting for some investors and had a house with empty rooms,” he says. “I used Airbnb before and liked it, hence I wanted to experiment with hosting part-time.

Thousands of guests and many properties later, I’m still enjoying this ‘ongoing’ experiment as if it was my first week doing it.”

Selling the Experience People like Thi and Tai represent the archetypical modern business entrepreneurs of Vietnam by taking full advantage of an existing online model to provide a service.

of sharing and entrepreneurship, which is a fastrising trend among the Gen-Y and Millennial demographics in Vietnam. However, infrastructural problems such as power outages and water shortages are also major issues among guests, although some hosts like Thi and Tai have their respective solutions. Thi ensures that all plumbing, electricity and air-conditioning equipment are constantly maintained and replaced. Tai ensures that he has contacts for electricians and contractors who can respond within an hour, but if that doesn’t work, “You can explain to your guests sincerely about these issues in a friendly way and they would understand,” he says.

The Future of the Sharing Economy Tai believes he can further expand his enterprise by recruiting good people.

“The objective is to create a hospitality group that can help travellers maximise their time during their stay and give good suggestions as to where to go and what to do.” Just like Tai, Thi plans to expand and focus on selling the experience, rather than just the accommodation. In the case of HCMC and Vietnam in general, this could mean a new

for travel, she opened up her apartment for rent

Both of them also strongly believe in the

generation of hosts who incorporate the spirit

and she’s never looked back since. She currently

importance of not being dodgy, by establishing

of entrepreneurship into the sharing culture that

has 11 listings on the site.

a credible online presence in the form of

runs deep in this country.

34 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


TRAVEL ADVERTORIAL

Japan Airlines: Reinventing Flight

#iAMHCMC

choose your dining preference. Would you like a Western meal, or Asian? It’s up to you, whether you fly economy or business. Whatever you pick, you know it’ll be good since the menu is tailored for every destination, created by awardwinning chefs and changed quarterly. If you’d rather read the options in Vietnamese, Japan Airlines is one of the few airlines who goes the extra mile for Vietnamese flyers, translating key safety and culinary information so that all passengers can feel comfortable and understood. The plane touches down, but you don’t have to worry about being late. JAL was named the Best Asia-Pacific Major Airline for On-Time Performance in 2016.

Commitment to the Future While other airlines might have luxurious features and good meals, Japan Airlines makes English: 1 800 577 725 (7 a.m. to 5 p.m.) | Vietnamese: +84 28 3830 6213 (9 a.m. to 5 p.m.) | vn.jal.com

If you’re flying internationally, you care about getting to your destination safely, comfortably and on time. This just happens to be Japan Airlines’ speciality.

Enjoy True Omotenashi If you’ve been to or read about Japan, you’ve probably heard the word omotenashi. While it’s commonly translated as “hospitality”, it’s a

strides to improve communities as well. Never a company to shy away from big problems (hence the company’s motto, “Embrace new challenges”), Japan Airlines is doing its part to take on climate change. JAL has partnered with GE to develop an engine that will dramatically decrease CO2 emissions.

Since 1951, Japan Airlines (JAL) has been

concept that can’t fully be understood in English

leading the pack when it comes to innovative

– it just has to be experienced. The good news is,

commercial flying, and since 1994, Japan

you don’t have to go to Japan to enjoy it. Let’s

Airlines has brought this level of excellence to

take you on one of the three daily flights from

And since Japan Airlines is working to produce

Vietnam.

Ho Chi Minh City to Los Angeles to give you

a better future for our children, it has also

a sense of what Japan Airlines does every day.

decided to education. The JAL Scholarship

Today, JAL serves passengers in both Hanoi’s Noi Bai International Airport and Ho Chi Minh

Even though Tokyo has one of the busiest

City’s Tan Son Nhat International Airport,

airports in the world, with JAL’s services you

sending its premium, affordable international

can easily navigate this airport no matter what.

flights to 571 airports worldwide, from Asia to

As a busy transiting passenger looking for a

North America to Europe.

new gate, JAL’s staff helps you find where you

But even though it’s named Japan Airlines, that doesn’t mean the flights end in the Land of the Rising Sun. Departing from Tan Son Nhat

need to be. How? This airline equips every

by 1.5 percent each year.

Programme, founded in 1975, provides valuable opportunities for high school students all over Asia to come to Japan for three weeks for a cultural exchange programme. Since the start of this endeavour, Vietnam has been a constant participant.

employee with high-tech accessories to ensure

Every year, two students – one from Ho Chi

all operations run smoothly.

Minh City and one from Hanoi – travel to Japan

International Airport, the travel possibilities

You sit in your business class seat, and you’re

stretch worldwide:

glad you did. These chairs are top of the line,

a Saigoneer can choose from daily flights to nine different destinations all over the US. In particular, JAL flies a unique Asia-San Diego route, along with flights to Vancouver, BC and even Europe.

By 2020, JAL is working to reduce emissions

which probably explains why they won the Good Design Award in 2016.

With the ability to fully recline, these seats will turn even the longest red-eye flight into a literal dream. You somehow wake up in time for the dinner

And when you fly with Japan Airlines, get ready

service, and this isn’t one-size-fits-all: the flight

to fly in style.

attendant hands you a menu, and you can

to broaden their minds through leadership training and experiencing a different culture. Much like Japan Airlines’ many international flights, the JAL Scholarship Programme also does its part to bridge countries. With a commitment to excellence, a focus on every Vietnamese customer and continued efforts to make the world a little bit better every year, it’s no wonder JAL won TripAdvisor’s Best Airline in Japan Award, 2017. So, where are you headed next? 35


LCY UK

London

GERMANY

FRA

Frankfurt

CDG Paris

FRANCE

Abu Dhabi, UAE

7h 30m

BSB, Brunei

1h 55m

Bangkok, Thailand

1h 30m

Beijing, China

4h 45m

Busan, South Korea

4h 40m

Doha, Qatar

8h 05m

Frankfurt, Germany

12h 20m

Fukuoka, Japan

4h 50m

Guangzhou, China

2h 50m

Hong Kong

2h 40m

Istanbul, Turkey

11h 0m

Jakarta, Indonesia

3h 10m

Johor Bahru, Malaysia

1h 50m

Kaohsiung, Taiwan

2h 55m

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

1h 55m

Kunming, China

2h 55m

Pakse, Laos

1h 35m

London, UK

13h 0m

Paris, France

13h 15m

Manila, Philippines

2h 50m

Penang, Malaysia

1h 40m

Melbourne, Australia

8h 15m

Moscow, Russia

10h 30m

Nagoya, Japan

5h 15m

Nanning, China

2h 10m

Osaka, Japan

4h 50m

36 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

IST

Istanbul

Atlantic Ocean

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

55m

Seoul, South Korea

5h 15m

Shanghai, China

4h 10m

Shenzhen, China

2h 35m

Siem Reap, Cambodia

1h 20m

T

U


R

U

S

S

I

A

DME

Moscow, Russia

PEK

ICN

Beijing, China R

K

E

Y

C H I N A

XMN

Xiamen, China

PUS

SZX

CAN

DOH

Doha, Qatar

KMG

AUH

Kunming, China

Abu Dhabi, UAE

RGN

Yangon, Myanmar

PKZ

Pakse, Laos

BKK PEN

Penang, Malaysia

KUL

Selangor, Malaysia

JHB

HKG

Hong Kong

RMQ

Tokyo

NGO Nagoya

TPE

TNN

Tainan, Taiwan

Kaohsiung, Taiwan

Hoang Sa Island

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

MNL

Manila, Philippines

Truong Sa Island Phu Quoc Island

KOS

Sihanoukville, Cambodia

SIN

HND

Taipei, Taiwan Taichung, Taiwan

KHH

PNH

Bangkok, Thailand

JAPAN

Fukuoka

Shanghai, China

NNG

REP

Osaka

FUK

PVG

Nanning, China

Siem Reap, Cambodia

SOUTH KOREA

Busan

Shenzhen, China

Guangzhou, China

ITM

Incheon

SGN HCMC, Vietnam

BWN

BSB, Brunei

Singapore

Johor, Malaysia

CGK

Jakarta, Indonesia

Sihanoukville, Cambodia

1h 20m

Singapore

2h 0m

Sydney, Australian

8h 25m

Taichung, Taiwan

3h 15m

Taipei, Taiwan

3h 25m

Tokyo, Japan

5h 45m

Xiamen, China

2h 55m

Yangon, Myanmar

2h 15m

A U S T R A L I A

SYD Sydney

MEL

Melbourne

*world-map by FreeV

37


#iAMHCMC

TRAVEL ADVERTORIAL

Take a Trip to Little Saigon

In 1979 Charlie Soo, the founder of the Asian American Small Business Association, lent his hand to this worthy cause. Rather than focus on the original plan to make a New Chinatown, Soo involved Chicago’s Vietnamese, Laotian, Cambodian and Japanese businesses as well. From here, he worked tirelessly to get what would later be deemed Little Saigon off and running. He gave the Argyle “L” station a US$250,000 rehabilitation, and in 1981 started a yearly “Taste of Argyle” food festival (which has since disbanded, unfortunately). After working with Chicago Mayor Jane Byrne to fix the sidewalks and subsequent mayor Harold Washington, it was largely thanks to the efforts of this man that Argyle Street has a sign that reads “Asia on Argyle” today.

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Overseas, Saigon gets a little smaller. Now you can visit “Little Saigons” all over North America. And believe us, you’ll be glad you did! When people choose their next travel

Vietnamese restaurants, markets and all manner

destination, all too often they just consider the

of little tastes from Vietnam.

broad strokes. The downtown of a city, the

What to Do in Chicago Besides the eclectic and culturally rich Little Saigon, Chicago has much more to offer. As the third-largest city in the US, Chicago is known for its architecture, its food and its sights.

Chicago’s Uptown neighbourhood is home to over 10,000 of the more than 25,000 Vietnamese people living in Illinois.

Grab a world-famous Chicago hot dog to

Argyle Street is a bustling and bright part of the

USA. And don’t forget to sample the amazing

city, but it hasn’t always been like this. In fact, it

pho to be had in Little Saigon – we hear that

was the influx of Vietnamese people that helped

Vietnam Restaurant on 1032 W Argyle Street

make this metropolis a little better.

is the place to go.

Asia on Argyle

EVA Air Makes It Happen

When Vietnamese began to come into the US,

Now that you have a little taste of what

Chicago isn’t the only city in North America

many gravitated towards Argyle and Broadway

Chicago has to offer, we have even better news

with its own little part of Saigon. These

– streets that had a less-than-sparkling history.

for you. EVA Air has a great route to get you

Vietnamese communities, mostly created after

This inner-city retail district had fallen into

to the Windy City. Featuring a short layover

the American War ended in 1975, have sprung

disrepair: shops had closed and it was considered

in beautiful Taipei, it will go as quickly and

up all over the continent: today from New York

unsafe to walk the streets after 5 p.m.

seamlessly as an international flight possibly can.

The turnaround of Chicago’s Uptown

Named one of the Top 10 Major Airlines in the

neighbourhood occurred first when Chicago

Asia Pacific as well as the Best Airline in Taiwan

restaurateur Jimmy Wong bought property

by famed travel website TripAdvisor, it’s EVA

on Argyle Street in the 1960s. His original

Air’s pleasure to give you the most luxurious

When you turn onto Argyle Street in Chicago’s

intention was to make this pocket of Chicago

and one of the quickest routes to Chicago.

Uptown neighbourhood, you can see one of

what he would call “New Chinatown”.

these vibrant communities for yourself. Dotting

However, as an unfortunate accident prevented

And to make matters even better: EVA Air flies

both sides of Argyle Street and the intersecting

Wong from fulfilling his dream, another

one of their coveted Hello Kitty-themed jets to

Broadway Street, you’ll be greeted with bakeries,

developer stepped in.

Chicago. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

attractions they can see or visit, and the food they can eat. All of this is important, but these factors often aren’t what give travellers lasting impressions years later.

The best experiences come when you see the many different cultures living together in one zip code.

munch while you hit the city streets. The downtown area is huge, but well laid out and incredibly walkable – in 2011, Chicago was named the fourth-most walkable city in the

Case in point? Little Saigon in Chicago, Illinois.

Big Saigon, Meet Little Saigon

to San Francisco you can find VietnameseAmerican communities operating businesses, helping the community and keeping Vietnamese traditions alive.

38 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


HEALTH FEATURE

by Arik Jahn

#iAMHCMC

Tooth Game: Dental Tourism Vietnam’s dental tourism has been coming on strongly lately. Is Vietnamese dentistry ready to take on Thailand? We set out for the answer. One-hundred-thousand foreign dental tourists, nearly US$150 million of revenue per year – and rising. There’s no denying it: dental tourism is what you would have to call a trend in Vietnam. However, considering the 10 million visitors the country welcomed in 2016, and the much more impressive numbers of its world-leading neighbour Thailand earning US$5 billion from medical tourism each year, one thing is for sure: there’s room to grow.

One might wonder how dentistry manages to

And that’s what Vietnam needs to consolidate,”

be so cheap here. For once, lagging behind is

Dr Sinanan says. Collaboration is the way to go,

actually an asset. Thailand got dental tourism

not competition: making sure clinics in Vietnam

going decades ago. Its main attraction back

reach the highest standards across the board and

then? The low cost. Soon the customers came,

work together with dentists abroad to ensure

whole clinics decided to cater to foreigners and

efficient aftercare. Credibility is key.

the prices saw a strong rise. In Vietnam this hasn’t happened yet. “That helps us to be competitive,” Dr. Nhu adds.

Critical Voices

In this spirit, more and more clinics are pushing to create an association in a joint effort to set

However, not everybody embraces this development. Notably, foreign dentists warn their patients against going to “low-cost

Especially knowing that Vietnam has strong

countries” for their dental treatment. It goes

arguments for travellers to choose the country

without saying: this judgment is biased.

over its competitors: skilled doctors, the latest technology and, most importantly, as Dr. Quynh Nhu Do from Elite Dental Group states,

“The cost for dental treatments is about 20 to 30 percent cheaper than in Thailand.” Not to mention Western countries... Hence the

Getting Vietnam Google-Ready

Dr Adrian Sinanan from Starlight Dental has

common standards and promote Vietnam as a dental tourism destination. In Dr Sinanan’s eyes, one major goal is:

“When people search for ‘Dental Tourism Asia’ online, Vietnam should come first in the Google listing.”

worked in the UK and Australia. He knows

Simply put, when people think dental tourism,

those prejudices all too well.

Vietnam should be the first country to come

“When it comes to healthcare, negative feelings go around like a wildfire. If a country gets a bad reputation, it’s all over.”

to mind. But regardless of all efforts to spread the word, he points out what it really comes down to:“At the end of the day, all you want is provide the best possible service to domestic and

influx from nearby nations such as Australia and New Zealand, Dr. Nhu explains. You catch

Hence what a dental tourism destination

international patients and if people happen to

a direct flight, get your teeth done, save more

needs is an impeccable reputation as a centre

come to your clinic from far, that is great news.

than half of the typical cost, “and with the rest

of excellence. “That’s what Thailand made its

Whether it’s called dental tourism – or just

of the money you travel around Vietnam.”

name on. Malaysia has it for medical procedures.

good dentistry.”

100%

acceptance to ISHCMC American Academy

Congratulations to our Grade 5 students: Above international average results Priority acceptance to ISHCMC schools 92 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Binh Thanh Dist., HCMC

(028) 2222 7788 / 99

www.issp.edu.vn 39


#iAMHCMC

Recipe of the Month

by The Golden Spoon Awards

Serves: 4 Cooking time: 60 minutes Difficulty: Medium

Ingredients • 500g rice jellyfish • 150g featherback fish • 100g black tiger prawn • 100g ground pork • 500ml coconut water • 50g tomatoes • 50g onions • 100g pineapple • 15g shallots • 50g green onions • 50g ginger • 100g perilla leaves • 100g banana blossom, finely grated • 100g lettuce • 500g fresh rice noodles • 100g roasted peanut

• 2 red chili peppers • 10ml cooking oil • 500ml broth • 20g cilantro • 5g garlic

Spices • 5g salt • 10g sugar • 5ml fish sauce • 4g ground pepper • 7g seasoning powder

Kaya Jellyfish Noodle Soup This recipe comes from the 2013 Golden Spoon Award’s Kaya Restaurant team. Each bite of this soup will be a delicious taste of Vietnamese history and culinary culture, so if you’re in the mood for jellyfish, this dish cannot be beat.

Directions 1. Prep the Ingredients

2. Prepare the Soup

cooked through. Pour 500ml of coconut water and 500ml of broth into the stockpot; when it

Peel the garlic and shallots and mince both

Peel, devein and remove the heads from the

ingredients.

shrimp. Pat the shrimp with paper towels until

Finely chop 1 red chili pepper and cut the remaining red pepper into short shoestrings. Wash and finely chop the cilantro. Cut the white bulb ends from the green onions into shoestrings and mix these with the thinly sliced banana blossoms. Crush the roasted peanuts. Core the tomatoes and finely chop all. Cut the pineapple and onions into small cubes. Peel and chop the ginger into segments; smash each portion with the blade of a knife and mix the ginger with the jellyfish.

dry and finely chop all. Add the ground pork, 10g of finely chopped shallots, 3g seasoning powder, 3g sugar, 1g ground pepper, 2ml fish sauce together with the shrimp and mix together.

boils, skim the top. Roll the paste into small balls and add them to the soup. When fully cooked, the balls will float. Season to taste with 5g salt, 4g sugar, 2g ground pepper and 2g seasoning powder.

Presentation

Put the featherback fish into a separate bowl. Add the 5g garlic, 5g shallots, 5g chopped red

Put the remaining fresh vegetables on a plate

pepper, 1g ground pepper, 3ml fish sauce,

and divide the noodles into bowls. Dunk the

3g sugar and 2g seasoning powder. Blend all

jellyfish into the broth then place on top of the

ingredients into a smooth paste.

fresh noodles. Pour the hot broth containing fish balls, shrimp and pork over all. Sprinkle

Put the stockpot on the stovetop and add 10ml

the chopped onion, cilantro, red pepper, and

cooking oil. When the oil is heated, add the

crushed roasted peanut over the soup.

onion and fry until crispy. Tip in the chopped

Rinse the jellyfish and ginger several times, and

tomato and pineapple and sauté all. Add the

Serve hot alongside the vegetables, red chili

store the jellyfish in ice to prevent melting.

mix of marinated shrimp and pork and fry until

pepper and fish sauce.

40 | iamhcmc.com/gazette


TRAVEL FEATURE

by Kristian Goodchild

#iAMHCMC

Organic Panic? Organic food is taking the world by storm, and Vietnam is no different. But does the country’s problem with pollution put a damper on this trend?

3. They’re GAP certified. Good Agricultural Practices are voluntary audits that verify that fruits and vegetables are produced, packed, handled and stored as safely as possible to minimise risks of microbial food safety hazards.

Vietnam, with its reliance on unprocessed food

International GAP and Vietnamese GAP are

and abundance of arable land, is a great place

similar.

to get freshly grown food. It makes sense that the food sold here should be verifiably organic, however this is more easily said than done.

According to La Holista’s criteria, it looks like some of Organik’s goods are organic, and some are pseudo-organic. But at least it’s trying; just

By definition, organic food is food that hasn’t

be sure to read the labels. If you’re looking for

been affected by chemicals during the growing

organic food a bit closer to home, you don’t

process. Can that even be done in Vietnam, one

have to look further than Dong Nai.

of the leading polluters of the world? And with the air quality so bad in HCMC, how far from the city should something be grown?

The air in HCMC is notoriously bad, among the worst in the world. Bloomberg reported that due to pollution from HCMC and Hanoi, Vietnam sits near the bottom of Yale’s Environmental Performance Index for dirty air, at 170 out of 180 nations. Given environmental considerations, it’s little surprise that one of the biggest names in organic foods here in HCMC bases its growing operations in Dalat, located high in the mountains. Chiara Squinzi of the HCMC-based health food company La Holista reports that there are multiple tiers of organic labelling within Vietnam. For example, Dalat-based Organik (Street 8, Thao Dien, D2), the self-proclaimed “leading organic food distributor”, uses three different definitions of “organic” for their food:

Organica: Locally Sourced, Safe and Healthy Shop 1: 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 | +84 28 2253 0602 Shop 2: 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 | +84 28 6673 3350 Shop 3: 54 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan D. | +84 28 6685 0532 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 | +84 28 2253 0602 | shophuuco@ gmail.com | organica@organica.vn | organica.vn

Our pick for the best safely grown food has to go to Organica. These entrepreneurs grow their food surprisingly close to HCMC, in Dong Nai province. Despite the proximity to the city, it has recently acquired European organic certification and, it appears, only sells its own food in three HCMC shops. Three years of careful estate management has given its farms a micro-climate in which harmful pests are destroyed by friendly bugs, and the clean air and soil makes for perfectly organic food. This is no easy feat, so enjoy it!

Increasing Options

1. “Organik’s organic certification is European and has been obtained after proper sampling, testing and monitoring soil, water and produce for at least three years before certification and renewed every year provided standards are met,” she says. They also obtained HACCP (Hazard Analysis & Critical Control Point) certification for the processing area, also checked and renewed every three years.

Whether or not Vietnamese produce can ever be labelled “organic” by European standards, the increased efforts to make food safer and more healthy is definitely a trend rising rapidly in popularity. Besides Organica and Organik, plenty of other options have opened up for consumer hungry for healthier food options. Annam Gourmet Market (16-18 Hai Ba Trung,

2. Selected products are based on conventional

D1), Nam An Markets (Street 21, Thao Dien,

farming. The difference is that the supplier

D2) and 5th Element (Unit 01-01, Vivo City,

farmers gear towards organic with no

Nguyen Van Linh, D7) are all also worth

additional chemical inputs, but residues and

seeking out if you’re keen to cook something

drifts can be found.

healthy tonight. 41


#iAMHCMC

ENVIRONMENTal FEATURE

by Jesús López-Gomez

Weathering the Storm: Flooding in HCMC available, some of the cost being covered by

As HCMC gears up for another rainy season, a long-term fix for road flooding seems further and further away.

international aid. Indeed, when the World Bank’s chief Vietnam liaison Ousmane Dione visited the country for the first time in September, he affirmed the global aid group’s support. Dione’s previous positions with the World Bank were responsible for water control throughout the Southeast Asia region.

by podoboq

The city’s flooding unit identified 21 flooding hotspots in 2015 and 56 in 2016. Its goal this year is to eliminate 12 of them.

During last year’s monsoon season, the Centre

This represents a fraction of the city’s ongoing

This may prove to be an uphill battle due to

Asiatique de Recherche sur l’Eau (“Asian

financial commitment to flood relief. In

an unusually early monsoon season. In April,

Water Research Centre in English) recorded

September, Ho Chi Minh City announced a

photos of passengers disembarking from a plane

an astounding 44 flooded streets.

VND 97 trillion (US$4.3 billion) water control

onto a flooded tarmac made rounds on social

effort, which will span the next five years and

media. Tran said inundation continues to plague

calls for the construction of three reservoirs

the city because of residential construction,

and a group of pumping stations. A centerpiece

particularly what he feels is a need for greater

group of projects is an eight kilometre, three-

sensitivity to hydrological concerns.

The six-month rainy season officially starts in May, but the centre has already recorded 22 flooded streets in 2017.

Issues with Infrastructure “Misuse of water diversion infrastructure –

metre-wide sewage pipe to keep trash out of a key natural water diversion resource, the Saigon River.

Seeking International Relief

filling canals or blocking water drains – has in the past been the driving cause of Ho Chi Minh City’s flooding events, and Asian Water Research Center researcher Tran Ngoc Tien Dung said that remains the key culprit.

“The situation [has not] changed,”

defines a flooding event as water accumulation over 10 cm and if the water remains 30 minutes after a rain event.

As far as the rain itself goes, Tran said beware the first half hour of a rain storm. Precipitation events tends to produce the most rainfall during

The flood effort has won international

that time. Tran added that rain storms tend

cooperation. The Dutch government will help

to cluster themselves around the afternoon, so

build the three 10,000-cubic-metre reservoirs.

until around November, be ready for rain any

In the project announcement, the city stated

time during 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. Also, “always

it had 40 percent of the funding immediately

have a raincoat with you.”

How to Drive in the Rain…

Tran said in an email giving the centre’s flooding findings for this year. The research centre

Going with the Flow

Rainy season befalls us now, but duty calls nevertheless. For those driving in the rain, here are a few helpful tips courtesy of DC Motorbike (217 D2, Binh Thanh D.) to keep you and your bike going through the precipitation despite a precipitous travel itinerary. [ If you disregarded the above and went forward

[ During heavy downpours, wait until more

Beyond being a nuisance to drivers, flooding

anyway, no worries. Shut the bike down, move

favorable conditions if possible.

can threaten critical resources, as in Tan Son

it to a dry place and use the kickstarter to

Nhat Airport in 2016 when flooding there

activate the bike. A running engine will push

[ If the water level is above the exhaust, do

endangered the power station serving the

any water out of the exhaust.

airport. A disabled power station would have shut down the control tower. Ho Chi Minh City responded with an immediate US$16 million worth of flood abatement construction. 42 | iamhcmc.com/gazette

not proceed. A flooded exhaust can cause problems with the engine and may result in

But if you use the electric starter, you may

a damaged electric starter. These are costly

damage it.

problems that you can avoid by staying away

A manual initiation is best.

from shin-high water.


IT’S A LOT IT’S A LOT BETTER BETTER AT AT NOVOTEL NOVOTEL

43



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