TRAVEL n b y Tu
g
Di
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By Locals, for Locals
Ấn phẩm chuyên quảng cáo - Phát hành miễn phí (nhiều tác giả)
7-8/2017
#iAMHCMC
Editor’s note
Editor’s note #iAMHCMC
By Locals, For Locals
Editorials 2. Editor’s Note 3. Letter from the CEO
One of the interesting things about Vietnam – and one of the things I love most about it – is the multitude of different feelings tourists and residents have about the country. It seems like first-time visitors either adore Vietnam or will never return, and always for completely different reasons. There is no middle ground, including the visitors who fall in love with the organised chaos and colourful nature of everyday life here – some who visit vow never to leave.
travel Features
This is not a country for the weak-willed; this is a country that will test boundaries.
4. People: Vietnam’s Greatest Asset
So, with such a strong, independent and fierce country, why should your domestic vacation here be tame? The conventional trip through Vietnam so many of us have taken (the obligatory stops from Hanoi to Hue to Hoi An to Ho Chi Minh City) don’t do justice to what the country can offer, and it’s for a very simple reason: these cities, the people and experiences don’t take you into account.
6. Exploring the Mekong Delta 8. Eating Your Way Through Vietnam 12. Big Destinations for Your Little Ones 14. Good Music and Good Times 16. How to Golf in Vietnam 18. Camp of Approval 20. Motorbike Dreams: Crossing the Country 22. Reliving the Past: The Historical Route 24. Finding Your Spiritual Soul 26. Walk on the Wild Side: The Sporty Life 28. Fun in the Sun: Watersports in Vietnam 30. Ethnic Minorities in Vietnam 32. Knocking Down Barriers: Travelling with a Disability 34. Airbnb My Guest 36. International Flights from HCMC
FOOD FEATURE
I call this conventional trip “The Vietnam Tour”, and it basically acts to satisfy a traveller’s curiosity about the country. Rather than truly explore and learn about Vietnam, this is a toe-dip of a journey. Perhaps this is why Vietnam has a problem luring tourists here for return visits – a problem competing tourist-friendly countries like Thailand have never had a problem with. What we’re proposing is something different: multiple routes through Vietnam based on interests, not cities. Depending on why we travel (and we all have different reasons), you can have completely different experiences whether you’re hitting the beach with your family, exploring hidden hems for street food, or visiting historical sites to learn from the past. The main goal of this issue? To inspire you to head out and explore Vietnam in greater detail. Hit the Ho Chi Minh Highway, and don’t forget to stop as often as you can along the way! Best,
41. Organic Panic?
HEALTH FEATURE
Keely Burkey
39. Tooth Game: Dental Tourism
ENVIRONMENTAL FEATURE 42. Weathering the Storm: Flooding in HCMC
RECIPE OF THE MONTH 40. Kaya Jellyfish Noodle Soup
TRAVEL ADVERTORIALS 15. Vietnam Wine Tours: the “New World” of Wine 35. Japan Airlines:
Innovation in the Sky
38. Take a Trip to Chicago’s Little Saigon
MEET THE EXPERT 5. Should Vietnam Rethink Tourism? 2 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Have feedback? Contact me at kEELY@INNOVO.VN Editor-In-Chief Patrick Gaveau
Marketing Coordinator Thomas Kervennic
Executive Assistant & HR Manager Do Nhai
Digital Marketing Analyst Minh Tran Digital Marketing Assistant My Tran
General Accountant Nguyen My
Co-Owner Benjamin Giroux
Content Manager Keely Burkey Visual Content Producer Emilio Piriz Production Coordinator Oanh Tran
BD Manager Philippe Chambraud BD Coordinator Ngoc Tran
Writers Phillip Veinott Dallas Waines Kristian Goodchild Jesús López-Gomez John Brooksbank Rob van Driesum Sivaraj Pragasm Adie Casket Arik Jahn Tom Divers
Online Content Coordinator Sivaraj Pragasm Sr. Technical Officer Stefan Georg Sr. Developer Ai Nguyen Front Cover Tung Dinh Designers Trang Pham Tung Dinh
E-NOVO CO., LTD 42/37 Hoang Dieu, District 4, HCMC | +84 28 3825 4316 | sales@innovo.vn
TRAVEL & ITE (Du lịch & Triển lãm du lịch quốc tế) (nhiều tác giả)
Thanh Niên Publishing House 64 Ba Trieu - Hanoi - Vietnam | Tel: (+84 0 24) 3 943 40 44 - 62 63 1719 Publishing Liability: Director - Editor in Chief: Nguyen Xuan Truong | Editor: Ta Quang Huy Licence Info: Publishing Registration Plan No.: 1775-2017/CXBIPH/28-82/TN Publishing Permit No.: 470/QĐ-TN | Issued on 28 Jun 2017 | ISBN: 978-604-64-7997-0 6,000 copies printed at HCMC Nhan Dan Newspaper Printing Co., Ltd (D20/532P, Hamlet 4, Binh Chanh District, HCMC) No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.
Innovo’s 10-year anniversary
by Patrick Gaveau
#iAMHCMC
Letter from the CEO Innovo JSC, the mother company of
CityPassGuide.com already is Vietnam’s largest
the Golden Spoon Awards (GoldenSpoonAwards.
#iAMHCMC and CityPassGuide.com, will soon
and most informative website for both residents
com). We know too well that what makes
celebrate its 10th anniversary; and it feels good
and travellers.
Vietnam so special is above all its people and
to be where we are now. The dedicated efforts Benjamin Giroux (a good friend and business partner) and I have put in are paying off. The facts speak for themselves: after only 18 months
#iAMHCMC is the most credible English-language publication in HCMC,
Our beloved CityPassGuide.com premium travel guidebooks – the beautiful pocket guides you see everywhere and that most expats and travellers have used before – continue to lead the travel market by a huge margin. Our City Travel Maps are the market leader
cuisine. Unfortunately, these themes lack visible marketing campaigns and agendas.
Together with the Golden Spoon Awards, we are committed to promoting Vietnamese fine-dining cuisine.
in both Hanoi and Saigon as well. Our five-
American professor of international marketing
simply because our content is insightful,
monthly E-newsletter campaigns with a
Philip Kotler once stated, “Why can’t Vietnam,
meaningful, focused and beautifully designed.
subscriber base of 25,000+ remain strong, while
with its reputation for rich, diverse culinary
The regular feedback we receive from our
our Facebook page grows steadily with 400+
cuisine, and a plentiful food source, become a
readers and valued clients is inspiring. Here is
organic fans added monthly.
kitchen or a food warehouse for the world?”
what a Japanese photographer sent us recently via email:
“Dear #iAMHCMC, I was impressed by your last edition on ‘Real Estate in HCMC’. The analysis was excellent and I got lots of useful information from it.” As you may have realised by now, #iAMHCMC simply rocks! And this special summer twomonth Travel edition is no exception.
We are increasing the print run of #iAMHCMC by 20 percent to match a growing demand! Our team of talented working professionals is growing rapidly. We expect to have 32 full-time employees in July, plus the many freelancers we
The growing engagement and interaction demonstrate the value of our content and strategy. We love Vietnam and HCMC. This is why we take so much care to promote it, so you can make the best of your stay. We’ll continue to raise the standard and innovate so that you receive the most relevant information. Video is going to be a big thing for us soon, and we are pleased to announce that a #iAMHCMC iOS and Android app are in the making.
Coming soon is a new Q&A platform with 1,000+ answers to the most important questions on HCMC.
work with on a regular basis. This most likely is
This is all great, but the most important
Vietnam’s largest publishing team for a foreign-
milestone occurred last month, when we secured
owned, English-speaking private company. Our
a strategic partnership with Minh Long I Co. and
Our new objective is to raise the standard of Vietnamese cuisine and to promote it with a single national identity. Mr. Sang Ly, who is behind the Golden Spoon Awards, said, “We as a country have not yet properly introduced the world to the versatility of our food. It’s already recognised that other culinary giants like Italy, France, China or Thailand have different types of food per region. Vietnam is very much the same, but I don’t come across many people who know this.” Yes, street food is acclaimed but fine food has a long way to go. And this essential part of the travel experience makes Vietnam so special. With passion always,
Patrick Gaveau
3
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Philip Veinott
People: Vietnam’s Greatest Asset Good Deeds Every Day
The food and the sights are all great in Vietnam, but the real reason to visit has always remained the people.
In Hanoi, there was a story about a foreigner who got into an accident and his employer
Having lived and worked in Vietnam for over
raised some money for him while he was out
nine years, I have travelled to many provinces
of work. He told me that the TAs (teaching
and cities. I’ll spare you the tiresome list.
assistants) at the English centre also put their funds together to help. He mentioned that even
The one thing that has rang true for all of these
though they make one-eighth of his salary, they
places has been the people. I have met so many
all came together when he needed it. Stories like
warm-hearted people who have helped me in
this really makes me love living in Vietnam.
dire situations. Probably the best example? My motorbike accident over a year ago.
The cleaning ladies where I teach work tirelessly, sometimes up to 12 hours a day. I see them
As I was driving, a street cleaner appeared out of
hustling to make an honest living. Their strong
nowhere and caused me to swerve into the road. I was knocked unconscious and broke my arm.
their culture, I can see now that they were just
Two angels saved my life. They took me into
having fun and being welcoming. Vietnamese
their home, cleaned me up, brought me to the
people love to be personable and for me, when
hospital and even paid my entire hospital bill.
they are laughing at me, it’s a sign of respect;
They were some of the most caring people I have met in my life, and they were complete strangers.
if they are silent, you have a problem.
work ethic is something to respect. Whenever I walk by they always smile and say hello. They know I speak conversational Vietnamese, which freaks them out (in a good way), so they are always trying to make me
My friend’s family treated me like I was their very own “American Vietnamese” family member.
laugh with subtle Vietnamese jokes. I was also
I remember every day waking up to fresh coffee
her the next day to let her know that she forgot
and banh mi. Usually in the afternoon we would
her things; he sent her phone credit to her later
Here’s another example of great hospitality:
all have a giant family lunch and just talk – they
that day.
I first travelled from New Jersey to Ho Chi Minh
talked. I just looked at them as they laughed
City with a Vietnamese-American colleague in
at my bald head and hairy arms. I insisted on
2008. It was my first time overseas and he told
paying for their kindness, especially since I was
me to follow him to his hometown in Ben Luc,
staying for free.
Vietnam with Open Arms
Long An Province, around 90 minutes from
reading a post about a GrabBike user who left her pizza and phone credit on the back of the driver’s motorbike. The Grab driver contacted
There are countless people who really care in this country and are truly making a difference every day.
I remember telling them to accept my US$150
There’s a local who goes around District 2 in Ho
to cover any expenses, and they refused.
Chi Minh City to pick up all the nails and other
I realised how important “lucky money” was
pieces of sharp metal on the streets discarded
for children during Tet holiday, so I gave three
from construction sites, protecting drivers from
When I arrived at their home, I was seriously
of the children in the family US$50 each. The
getting flat tires. Simple things like this show
scared. People were just staring at me and
kids were beyond shocked. They went around
that locals do care. If you look closely you will
laughing and I wasn’t sure why. Looking back
screaming and yelling. It was one of the happiest
see the love for others and the love for this
and understanding more about Vietnamese and
moments of my life.
country that people here have.
Ho Chi Minh City. I drove from Tan Son Nhat Airport all the way to a place that I never imagined existed.
4 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
MEET THE EXPERT
by Keely Burkey
Are we doing tourism right in Vietnam? This is the question of the day, and these are the answers given by Patrick Gaveau, CEO of Innovo JSC and Vietnam tourism expert.
#iAMHCMC
Should Vietnam Rethink Tourism?
The typical travel route for tourism in Vietnam
to niche interests and usually don’t receive the
previously seen, or for a traditional beach-
is from the north to the south, and sometimes
same sort of marketing attention.
style long stay. Of the latter, we are seeing the emergence of Danang/Hoi An as a destination
the other way around. How is this style of tourism killing Vietnam’s potential as a tourist
So, you think it’s primarily a marketing issue?
for repeat travellers (more so than Phu Quoc,
destination?
The issue around effectively marketing and
though this is also increasing), though the
I wouldn’t say it’s killing it, but certainly it’s
promoting non-generic itineraries is there, but
percentages are still relatively small. This
restricting the potential for growth. For many
it’s further challenged by the limited knowledge
should continue to grow as infrastructure
travellers, in particular from Australia and other
of traditional travel agents.
slowly improves.
English-speaking markets, Vietnam is still very much seen as a “bucket list” destination, a oncein-a-lifetime trip not to be repeated. For some it is their first trip to Southeast Asia, though more often than not they’ve already travelled multiple times to what we call “fly and flop” beach destinations like Thailand and Bali.
Though Vietnam has some very attractive beaches, it is seen more as a cultural travel experience and it struggles to compete with its more established, experienced neighbours. When the potential of new sites or areas is recognised, these are too often monopolised and destroyed by local interests. What does the current tourist industry look like in Vietnam? If you look at these source markets, you will see they are filled with competing general sales agents all offering what on the surface seem to be similar types of travel itineraries, and they
Many of them haven’t travelled to this part of the world, so they stick with what they know and trust, through a tried and tested product. Familiarisation or educational trips invariably focus on the main highlights of the country through a north to south trip (or vice versa), so they just don’t have the confidence or knowledge to go beyond this. Few tourists return to Vietnam for a second trip. Why do you think this is? There are a host of reasons: the lack of an effective national tourism body to market the destination; the relatively high cost of travel; the cumbersome and expensive visa process; the over-development and pollution of natural attractions; the constant tourist ripoffs; substandard services and a flawed hotel rating system. What other travel patterns or tours should be created to change this and to encourage more
As the number of hotels and resorts increases, so will the competitiveness of rates, along with an increase in international carriers adding direct routes to Vietnam. How can travel agents help tourism in Vietnam grow sustainably? They can market and develop a range of innovative packages specifically aimed at these returning travellers. These could include (but aren’t limited to): special city stays with unique inclusions, like going to the less-visited central highlands region. This could be easily combined with a Danang or Hoi An beach stay or a stay in the country’s far northwest, like Sapa or Mai Chau, which are both easily accessible from Hanoi. Or you could have Mekong Delta overnight cruises as opposed to the commoditised day tours. All of this can be combined with the proper promotion of Vietnam’s best beach locations and advice on the best time to visit the various regions.
return trips to Vietnam, as it is in Thailand,
These more often should be included in planned
for example?
familiarisation or educational trips, ensuring
There are plenty of unique and specialist
There are probably only two main reasons
that travel agents broaden their knowledge for
offerings out there, but these are primarily suited
travellers would return: to visit an area not
use in the sales process.
are all fighting for a piece of the same pie.
5
Flowing 4,000 km through China, Laos and Cambodia, the Mekong River finally meets the East Sea in Vietnam.
Mekong Delta Adventures by Emilio Piriz
The Mekong Delta, the so-called rice bowl of Vietnam, encompasses more than 39,000 square kilometres in southern Vietnam. Here’s our ride down the Mekong’s winding canals. The tough water hyacinth stalks are used to weave beautiful purses, baskets and mats.
The silt of the Mekong River makes the soil fertile and perfect for farming
There’s no set religion in the Mekong Delta. Christian, Buddhist and Cao Dai temples abound.
6 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Long canoes are rowed adeptly through the hundreds of small canals.
Many houses are built directly on the water – the river is a way of life.
Today, you’ll see many fisheries and shrimp farms up and down the river.
The Mekong Delta is also famous for its people: you see friendly smiles everywherea you go!
7
Eating Your Way Through Vietnam When people go to new restaurants, they ask the waiters about that eatery’s đặc sản (speciality). If you’re travelling around Vietnam, get ready to encounter hundreds!
You’ve probably seen this many times: a person sitting at a metal table at a hole-in-the-wall
The Spice of Life
eatery, face held parallel to the plate or bowl in strong focus. In Vietnam, food isn’t just
However, what is most integral to Vietnamese
nutrition, it’s a philosophy – beautiful, complex
food? For renowned Vietnamese chef Chiem
and simple all at once.
Thanh Long, it all comes down to spices. Chef
And lucky you: you can experience it yourself.
A Family Affair Vietnamese food is not just an assortment of ingredients made in a specific manner. That’s a recipe, not a cuisine. At its most fundamental, Vietnamese food is both an idea and an experience.
Long is quick to note that spices aren’t just used to add flavour.
Spices are part of a complex system of health that’s grounded in the concept of yin and yang, the idea of contrasting-yet-complementary forces that work to make a beautiful and balanced whole. For example, in Vietnamese cuisine, duck is almost mandatorily paired with ginger. This isn’t just because these tastes work well together.
First and foremost, it’s a cuisine that celebrates
“Duck is ‘yin’, or cool, and ginger is ‘yang’, or
the idea of family. As the writers of Golden
hot. They balance out, so that when a person
Spoon & the Quintessence of Vietnamese
eats too much duck, their stomach is not upset
Cuisine point out,
by too much ‘yin’.”
“In Vietnamese culture, the family meal is always something holy. It is not only a place for reunion, but also a moment for connection, sharing [and] warmth that everyone saves for each other.”
Look at your next Vietnamese menu and you’ll start to see this pattern. Sauteed morning glory (yin) and garlic (yang). Snakehead fish (yin) and piper lolot (yang). This delicious list goes on.
No Set Cuisine
Walk around Saigon’s streets at night, and
8 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
you’ll see this happy communion of souls at
It’s a shame just how little the nuances and
many a bia hoi and sidewalk restaurant: large
varieties of Vietnamese food are celebrated
groups laughing, shouting and cheersing over
across the globe. “Before I came to Vietnam,
gigantic, family-style spreads of stir fries or
I had no idea about the food! All I knew was
communal hot pots.
pho and banh mi.”
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
Mark Lowerson, food blogger and street food
Northern Specialities
people will maybe know about pho, but maybe won’t know the difference between a Vietnamese and Chinese spring roll. And it’s always a revelation.” Even Vietnamese locals have been humbled by the complexity. Ly Sang, who organises the yearly national cooking competition the Golden Spoon Awards, told us,
“I thought I knew a lot about Vietnamese cuisine, and then I started travelling the country [for the competition]. I realised I hadn’t even scratched the surface!” After all, the bun cha in Hanoi is remarkably different from the bun cha on offer in Saigon. Each region lays proud claim to unique styles, tastes and spices. Chef Chiem Thanh Long says, “Nowadays people in Saigon eat less sugar, but it’s supposed to be sweet still… In the central [region], it’s salty and spicy. In the north, chefs try to keep the natural state of ingredients.” And thanks to Vietnamese chefs’ penchant for using only fresh, locally sourced ingredients, a region’s cuisine naturally depends on the
cook up adeptly for Hai Phong’s famous nem ran, a decadently big, fried, square spring roll
tour guide in Hanoi, recognises this unfortunate oversight in much of his clientele: “A lot of
#iAMHCMC
Sapa: Thang Co and Com Lam With perhaps the most unique menu on our list, Sapa’s mountainous region has naturally developed a very specific set of ingredients to work with. We recommend two rustic dishes cooked and enjoyed by the Hmong people: thang co and com lam.
traditionally cut into quarters. Many restaurants mix the crab meat with minced pork, egg, mushroom and onion and wrap this in a special rice paper from Hai Phong to give these heavenly crab pillows the perfect amount of crunch. These can be served as an appetiser, or along with greens and vermicelli if
Thang co is a hearty stew that pairs many parts of a horse (bone, viscera, meat) with a veritable medley of spices like cardamom, ginger, cinnamon and citronella. Making thang co is a labour-intensive process taking at least a couple of hours for all the flavours to blend. But when they do, get ready for something special. It’s typically served with a hot red pepper from Muong Khuong.
you want to make a meal of it (recommended). Once you’re done with your starter, it’s time for your main course: banh da cua. The wide, flat, brown noodles found in Hai Phong are here paired with wilted spinach and morning glory, tomato and crab balls. Over this delightful concoction the talented chef will pour a seafoodbased broth. The flavours are relatively mild, and the textures provide a satisfying chew.
To accompany your thang co, go for com lam, or bamboo sticky rice. Locals fill individual sections of bamboo with rice and add a bit of salt and water, and steam the rice directly in the bamboo, which makes for a delicately sweet, salty and chewy accompaniment to any meal. Grab a piping hot bowl of thang co at weekend fairs in Sapa, as well as Nha Hang Kham Pha Viet (15 Thach Son, Sapa).
Check 264 Cho Hang and 26 Ky Dong in Hai Phong for these dishes done right.
Hanoi: Ca Cuon Thit and Bun Cha On our “spring rolls done differently” tour, we come to Hanoi’s little-known ca cuon thit. This is simply a gem within a gem: at its core, there’s a mixture of pork and wood mushrooms; wrapped around this, flakes of succulent perch; and around this, different types of flour mixed
herbs, spices and produce that thrive in each of
with dill, deep fried to perfection. And when
the savvy gourmand who wants to understand
Hai Phong: Nem Ran and Banh Da Cua
the nuances of Vietnamese cuisine, here’s our
This industrial business town isn’t seen as
list of must-tries in North, Central and South
very touristy, but it has incredible seafood.
We now come to the place of origin of bun
Vietnam.
Crabs are usually on the menu, which they
cha. Part of the DIY variety of food so popular
Vietnam’s dramatically differing climates. For
you add the obligatory fish sauce for dipping? Heaven in a bite.
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TRAVEL FEATURE
in Vietnam, a steaming plate of bun cha will
solid base of this hearty soup is the healthy
allow the diner to create a soup made from
dollop of turmeric-infused rice noodles, with
diluted fish sauce (usually accompanied with
a mad creativity of proteins that can include
pickled veggies), a mountain of greens, a mass
shrimp, pork, chicken, and sometimes fish and
of vermicelli noodles and bite-sized hunks of
beef. Just as likely to be floating in your little
beautiful, flame-grilled pork. The most difficult
bowl of paradise are crushed peanuts, hard-
part is finding the best bun cha place in Hanoi:
boiled egg, a large shard of sesame rice cracker
there are too many!
and, our favourite part: a delightfully fresh and
Ca cuon thit is difficult to track down in Hanoi,
crunchy plate of thinly minced vegetables.
but check Bun Ca Sam Cay Si (5 Trung Yen).
If you want more, it’s time for bun cha ca.
The best bun cha restaurant is a matter of
Danang is famous for its fabulous, fresh seafood,
dispute, but Bun Cha 34 Hang Than (34 Hang
and this is truly displayed by the cha ca (fish
Than) is popular with the locals – always a
cakes), traditionally savoured for breakfast.
good sign.
This noodle soup dish pairs these delicious cakes with slices of lemons and chilies, fermented
Central Specialities
shrimp paste (just try it!), with vegetables like
Hue: Bun Bo Hue and Com Hen
For mi quang, you can’t go wrong at Ba Vi (166
Perhaps the most celebrated food destination
Le Dinh Duong). For bun cha ca, there’s a great
in Vietnam is Hue, which houses a long food
eatery on 109 Nguyen Chi Thanh.
pumpkin, pineapple, tomato and cabbage.
history, deeply intertwined with past royalty. It’s said that rulers in the 19th century demanded a new dish every day of the year, forcing the royal chefs to come up with hundreds of distinct and
Southern Specialities
intricate culinary delights.
Nha Trang: Bo Lac Canh and Bun Ca Sua
The quintessential Hue delicacy remains the
There’s a saying: “If you come to Nha Trang
rustic bun bo hue – not a very regal dish, but
and don’t try the grilled beef lac canh, it means
absolutely delicious nevertheless. As Tai Dang,
you only know half of Nha Trang.” What really
tour manager of Saigon’s XO Tours told us,
makes bo lac canh special is the marinade. They
“The broth is different. For pho, the broth is beef
infuse the beef with a mixture of honey and
or chicken. For bun bo hue, the broth is beef and
spices and then grill this pairing over charcoal.
pork, and flavoured with lots of lemongrass.”
It’s served with bread or raw vegetables.
These subtle differences make for a notably different eating experience. When paired with the huyet (cubes of congealed pig’s blood), water spinach, morning glory and bean sprouts, it’s hard not to order a second bowl. Another Hue dish is com hen, or mussel rice: steamed rice accompanied by tiny mussels, a variety of shredded greens and the obligatory spicy chili fish sauce. Traditionally this is seen as a dish enjoyed by commoners, but who cares? It’s amazing.
Just as integral to Nha Trang’s cuisine landscape is bun ca sua – seafood soup. Of course, variations of seafood soups exist up and down the coast, but few take advantage of the jellyfish roaming Nha Trang’s seas. They’re definitely an acquired taste, but worth trying. To get your fill of bo lac canh, visit Nha Hang Lac Canh (44 Nguyen Binh Khiem). For bun ca sua, there’s nowhere better than Ba Nam (50 Thong Nhat). Bon appetit!
Head over to the very local Bun Bo Hue
Saigon: Com Tam and Banh Canh
Restaurant (19 Ly Thuong Kiet) for your first
Saigon is a bit of a food mystery. As Tai from
course, and then nab some com hen at Quan
XO Tours tell us, HCMC is routinely referred
Nho (28 Pham Hong Thai).
to as “the house of food” with delicious dishes from all over Vietnam. However, there aren’t
10 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Danang: Mi Quang and Bun Cha Ca
many Saigon-specific specialities. As Chef
One of the most distinctive Vietnamese noodle
Chiem Thanh Long confirms, “Actually, there
soup dishes around, you won’t get better mi
is no food that is typical of Saigon. Whether
quang than in its place of origin, Danang. The
you want to eat the food of Central, Northern,
TRAVEL FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
Central Highlands or Southern regions, all are
vegetables and animals. Take, for example, the
noodles and a lot of seriously fresh vegetables.
here in Saigon. Saigon and Dalat are similar in
always-lovely fried elephant ear fish available
This dish has many changing faces: it can be
that sense, collecting so many dishes without a
at restaurants and homestays.
served dry as well as in a soup, and the additives
typical dish of its own.”
The presentation is half the fun, as the fish is
Bearing that in mind, you can get some seriously
traditionally propped up, so hungry guests can
delicious fare here. Take the quintessential
take the meat from both sides at once. Paired
southern com tam, for instance. While broken
with lettuce and a sauce for dipping, this is
rice was originally fed to livestock, today its
definitely one of the freshest fried foods around.
soft, delicate texture lends itself well to the paired egg, meat (usually pork) and pickled vegetables. Com tam is meant to be sweet, like a lot of food in Southern Vietnam. Definitely
Song Nuoc Mien Tay Restaurant (52-53 to ban do so 18, ap 3, xa Tan Thach, My Tho) has great fried elephant ear fish if you want this tasty treat, and Hu Tieu Binh Dan Ba Sam (188
Hu tieu is another beautifully balanced dish –
Tran Hung Dao, Sa Dec) has been named the
a medley of different meats from land and sea
best hu tieu in Southeast Asia (and a bowl is
are paired with a clear, subtle broth, vermicelli
only VND6,000)!
soak the rice in fish sauce, not soy sauce.
Understanding the Vietnamese Table
Another dish you’d be crazy to pass up is banh canh. With perhaps the thickest of all
depend on each chef’s speciality
You might not be familiar with all the sauces
that it’s easily customisable. If a soup broth is
at a Vietnamese table, but have no fear! Tai
too salty (broths tend to get saltier as the day
Long from XO Tours gives us a briefing.
goes on), add some lime to even things out.
Utensils
Etiquette
Chopsticks are used for a lot of dishes, but
Tai says, “When you’re drinking soup, don’t
you’ll also see forks and spoons. Spoons are
make so much noise. And don’t put your
There’s no “best” com tam, but Tom Divers of
essential for eating rice and even cutting
elbows on the table. It’s rude.” If you’re
Vietnam Coracle recommends Com Tam 352
meat. Use the chopsticks in your right hand
having dinner at a traditional Vietnamese
(352 Chu Van An, Binh Thanh D).
to push the food on the spoon, held in your
house, wait before being served: sometimes
left hand. If you eat rice with a fork, you
elders and men are served before all others
might be laughed at.
as a sign of respect, although this tradition is
Vietnamese noodles, the beauty of banh canh lies in its variations. Depending on the city, or even the restaurant, you can get shrimp, pork or fish cake with it. In the Mekong Delta, be sure to keep your eyes open for banh canh made with coconut milk.
For banh canh cua (with crab), we’ve heard good things about Banh Canh Cua 87 (87 Tran Khac Chan, D1).
Mekong Delta Region: Hu Tieu and Fried Elephant Ear Fish As the farming capital of Vietnam, the Mekong Delta is virtually exploding with delicious food. Here there’s a multitude of everything: fruit,
waning. If you want to show your host you’re
Limes, Peppers and Sauces
a happy eater, there’s no better way than to
Chances are you’ll be presented with a small
eat everything. “Clean your bowl,” Tai says.
dish of limes, banana peppers (spicier than
“And don’t be afraid to pick up your bowl
the red flakes!) and sauteed red peppers in oil.
and drink from it. It means you’re enjoying
Use as little or as much as you’d like – one of
it.” With the food in Vietnam, that won’t be
the great things about Vietnamese cuisine is
a problem.
11
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Keely Burkey and Neil Fraser
Big Destinations for Your Little Ones We’re here to tell you the singular truth to travelling with a family: if the children are happy, everyone’s happy. Here’s how you do it.
There are some destinations that, while being
families with fun activities. Here are just a few:
an amazing vacation spot for an older couple
ziplining, canoeing, zorbing, paintball and grass
or a group of young friends, will likely lead to
sledding. Another plus is the management’s
frustrated crying and fits of boredom for your
focus on environmental conservation. Around
little ones.
80 percent of Madagui Forest City is protected,
Our advice? Skip Hue, Hoi An and Hanoi. These cities are undisputed tourist hotspots and add immense cultural value to many a trip. But do your kids really care about cultural value? Will they be listening, rapt and in awe to your tour guide as you walk around Hue’s royal citadel in the blazing heat? We’re guessing no. Why not avoid all that inevitable fuss and choose one of these family-friendly destinations? Here are our top five picks.
Dalat
which means you can hike through real and untouched jungles.
Vung Tau Only two hours away from HCMC, the laidback atmosphere of this classic beach town is perfect for the family that prefers to make its own itinerary. The most celebrated activity here is the Ho May Culture & Ecotourism park (1A Tran Phu, Ward 1). For around VND300,000 per person, families can take advantage of a cable car trip
This city enjoys its reputation for good reason: there’s so much to do here! The trick to travelling with children is to keep them constantly entertained. Take advantage of some of the alternative travel methods available in Dalat: a horsedrawn carriage, or the cable car skirting over the trees on its way to the Truc Lam Monastery are both good bets.
to the park itself, a short horse-drawn carriage ride, access to the waterpark and amusement park, and even the chance to soar on a zipline. On day two, instead of hitting Vung Tau’s beach, which often suffers from unsightly pollution, why not take a trip to the Binh Chau Hot Springs, located off Highway 55 about 60 km northeast of Vung Tau? If your kids aren’t ready to enjoy the peace of a good soak,
Go through one of the many reputable tour
there’s always the feeding demonstrations at the
services (always do your research and make
crocodile farm close by to keep them interested.
sure they have credentials) and have a great time ziplining, rafting, hiking and biking. Most companies will be more than happy to accommodate children. And before you go home, it’s always worth stopping at the legendary Crazy House (03 Huynh Thuc Khang, Ward 4). You and your family will have fun discovering all the twists, turns and nooks in this architectural marvel.
Madagui Forest City
Phu Quoc This remains the prime destination for the more low-key family unit. Snorkelling and swimming at the beautiful beaches are the first order of business here, but that’s not all this southwestern island has to offer. The huge Phu Quoc National Park, which covers over half of the island, provides a great venue to camp in the subtropical wilderness for a night or two. The Department of Tourism has been targeting Phu
12 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
This is just a few hours northeast of Ho Chi
Quoc as Vietnam’s next big tourist destination.
Minh City, near Cat Tien National Park. The
Be sure to take your kids to Vinpearl Phu Quoc
people who developed this 1,200 ha jungle
(Bai Dai, Ganh Dau), opened in 2015, which
paradise made it their mission to provide
includes a theme park, an aquarium and a safari.
TRAVEL FEATURE
Vinpearl Nha Trang
#iAMHCMC
Besides beautiful beaches and the largest
Spend one day at the huge water park and
freshwater pool in Southeast Asia (and the
aquarium, and another day at the theme park.
Built on Hon Tre Island off the coast of Nha
longest oversea cable car in the world), guests
And at night, it gets even better. A huge laser
Trang, Vinpearl Nha Trang has to be seen to
can enjoy indoor and outdoor games and
light show is held when the sun goes down to
be believed. Mega-developer Vingroup set out
activities like beach volleyball, table tennis,
amaze the young and old alike.
to make this go-to destination for holidaying
archery, billiards and cycling. And outside the
families and they did the job well.
5-star resort, the options get better.
For families, it doesn’t get better than this.
Travelling with Children: An Expert Opinion You have the destination in mind, but
aware of how strong the sun is in Vietnam,
as this takes the edge of the sweetness. The
there’s still the actual travelling to contend
and take the relevant precautions – plenty of
juice itself helps replace lost fluids and
with. Driving or flying hundreds of miles can
sunscreen, keep them continually hydrated, in
contains electrolytes. Generally, it can also
be tedious and stressful for adults, let alone
plenty of shade and also wear rash vests when
help to take regular dips in a pool or the East
the more emotional, impulsive and youthful
swimming.
Sea to keep the body temperature cooler.
among us. So we talked to Neil Fraser, the branch manager of Hoi An’s super familyfriendly Vespa Adventures, to find out what it takes to run a smooth trip. What are the biggest challenges to travelling with small children? Safety is always the biggest concern and therefore a challenge for any parent, mainly because of new environments you aren’t familiar with. However, Vietnam is a very safe country, and the locals are very comfortable with kids, and luckily nearly all places welcome children with open arms. Number two would be health issues. Again,
Finally, it’s being able to keep the kids entertained, whether it’s on long journeys or lazy days around the pool, and modern technology can really help out here. It gets hot in Vietnam! How does Vespa Adventures make sure that the children are cool, yet protected from the sun during long journeys? This is real issue for young children and
On Vespa Adventure tours, which sights do children seem to love the most? They love the countryside the most because they continually see the sights and sounds of a different culture. Typically, the countryside people are more curious with visitors/ foreigners than city folk are and go out of their way to try to interact with them.
everyone else, the sun is deceptively hot in this
The opportunity to interact with the locals
part of the world. Keeping regularly hydrated
is priceless, especially if they are kids of
and the continued application of sun protection
the same age. We also encourage kids to
should be emphasised. It may be better in the
try local activities such as noodle-making,
very hot days to wear long trousers and long
and they just appreciate being up close with
sleeves, just in case.
nature, whether it’s at a duck farm, watching
new environments involve different foods,
chickens run around the locals’ houses or
potentially bugs and viruses, and maybe
We would also recommend sugar cane juice,
seeing the majestic water buffalo bathing in
medical care if needed. We all need to be
with a pinch of salt and half a squeezed kumquat
the flooded rice paddies.
13
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
Good Music and Good Times
by Dallas Waines
time. Hoi An is separated into two sections: An Bang beach side and the city centre. On the beach side, relax at the beautiful Soul Kitchen, where you can catch live music most days of the week. The bars in the city centre can be fun and lively, but you aren’t really going to find a real party there, and most places close relatively early. If you want to party, check the hostels.
Hanoi There are thousands of bia hoi, but two areas stick out in particular. The first is Bia Hoi street – actually two streets (corner of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen
You only live once, so make the best of it. Here’s your guide to having a good time all over Vietnam!
Mui Ne Mui Ne is Vietnam’s best town for music on the beach, with several places that play good music
Mot, hai, ba, dzo!
well into the night. Some of the best include:
Vietnamese people love to party. They’re no
Line-Up Bar (122 Nguyen Dinh Chieu)
strangers to incredibly packed beer clubs and night clubs, complete with blaring EDM or Vina-house music. However, if you’re looking for a good party with music more tolerable to the non-Vietnamese ear, the top-ranked places on Google might not be your best bet. Here are recommendations for great nights out in Vietnam.
Saigon Saigon is quickly becoming an amazing party
Definitely the place to go if you want to hear some quality house music.
PoGo Beach Club (138 Nguyen Dinh Chieu) Has a beachy vibe, but serves up great cocktails. There’s also been a series of festivals there recently that are not to be missed. You can check out their next event at facebook.com/ muinemusicandartsfestival/.
Da Nang
in the Old Quarter) – which is livelier in the evening and is intermixed with bars. The other is Bia Hoi junction (Corner of Bat Dan and Duong Thanh), which is better for daytime drinking and people-watching. Vietnamese and foreigners alike love to hang out at these places for hours on end. Once you get your buzz on, it’s time to head to the clubs. Vietnamese love overspending on bottles at fancy nightclubs, and Hanoi has plenty of young people with enough money to show up in a new BMW and buy multiple of the most expensive items on the menu. They keep the Vinahouse and EDM on full blast while the DJ doesn’t do much more than stand there and look pretty. Not your cup of tea? It’s not ours, either. Check these places instead:
Da Nang is a beautiful city located right on a
Savage Lounge (112 Xuan Dieu) The chiller
huge stretch of gorgeous beach. Even its bridges
counterpart to Savage Club, which really
are iconic, with Dragon Bridge breathing fire
gets going on the weekends. Their great craft
Saturday and Sunday nights at 9 p.m.
cocktails are king here.
cheap beers on Bui Vien with Michael Jackson
There are plenty of fun outdoor bars:
Sidewalk (199D Nghi Tam) Come here if you
impersonators. Here are a few of our favourite
Dawn Bar (Phuoc My, Son Tra) Your best bet
want good vibes, good drinks and good food.
and music destination in Southeast Asia. More and more venues are opening up which cater to any type of traveller, whether it be cocktails on lavish rooftops overlooking the city or
spots in D1 that keep the good music going.
for Western electronic music actually located
Definitely has a rasta feel.
Glow (93 Nguyen Du) Great upscale rooftop
on the beach.
BirdCage (Alley 264 Au Co) These guys are
cocktails and proper house music.
Minsk Bar (Ngu Hanh Son, My An) A live-
all about collaborating with local artists. On
Piu Piu (97 Hai Ba Trung) Ever-evolving event
music venue to mingle with expats and locals.
calendar with two floors of music.
The Lighthouse (104 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia)
Hoi An
Great house party style that goes until the early morning.
pretty much any night you’ll be able to enjoy amazing and eclectic music.
About the Author: Dallas Waines is the founder of the Saigon Soul Pool Party. Vietnam’s
Just down the coast from Da Nang, Hoi An is
premiere house music-fuelled event series, SSPP
Indika (43 Nguyen Van Giai) A funky place to
much better known for food tours and tailored
runs every Saturday, from November till June.
hang out in the evening, but closes at midnight.
suits, but you can still manage to have a good
www.saigonsoul.com
14 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
TRAVEL Advertorial
#iAMHCMC ADVERTORIAL
Vietnam Wine Tours: The “New World” of Wine Wine is commonly associated with Europe and Latin America but did you know Vietnam is getting into the wine business too? Neither did we, until we met this man. Wine is something that’s best enjoyed with food on a nice, breezy late afternoon or early evening, something to help you relax.
And unlike other alcoholic beverages, a nice merlot or chardonnay contains a medley of tastes and textures that can be appreciated sip by sip. This is the belief of Raymond Ringhoff, CEO of Vietnam Wine Tours, and the cornerstone of how and why he started his business – to bring wine lovers together to experience the kinds of wines Vietnam has to offer.
The New, New World of Wine “Most people are familiar with wines from the ‘Old World’, European countries,” he says. “Recently, we’ve seen more interest in the ‘New World’ — wines from South America and Africa, but here in Asia, we’re starting to see an even newer ‘world’, and I believe this is going to be the next big thing.”
How It All Began
Raymond Ringhoff and Chi - his grand daughter
By using the wine and travel industries in France as a reference, Mr Ringhoff, who is originally from New York and now based in Sydney, figured that locally produced wine could be an excellent way to promote tourism in the country. That is exactly what Mr Ringhoff set out to do and he hasn’t looked back since.
The list is constantly updated to include new, special, unique tours that combine wine tasting with a totally relaxing getaway. Vietnam Wine Tours’ more popular packages include the winery visits to Dalat, together with visits to the different vineyards where you get
His passion for wine is clear if you get to
to experience the process of how wine is made.
meet him, as he not only dispenses his vast
Some of the more popular wineries include Vinh
knowledge of the different types of wine but
Thien, Dalat Beco and La Dora.
also his experiments on creating concoctions with wine and food – like pairing port wine with melted dark chocolate.
You don’t need to be a wine expert to appreciate good wine. By combining wine with travel, Vietnam Wine Tours targets those who just want to enjoy themselves. You don’t need to be a wine expert
Recently, the company has included wine trips to other Asian countries such as Myanmar, Cambodia, Indonesia and India, and the list is expected to expand to a few other countries outside the continent soon.
Keeping It Casual and Relaxed
to appreciate good wine, you just need to come with an open mind and you will learn much
Wine tasting may seem like a prestigious activity
The idea of Vietnam Wine Tours started as early
more about not only wine but also what this
for the elite but this is not true. There is no
as 2014 but only took off in July 2016, and in
beautiful country has to offer.
sophisticated dress code to join these tours, just be casual and comfortable as you don’t really
January this year, it launched its official website, VietnamWineTours.com.
Customised Wine Tours
Serving as a one-stop shop for all things wine-
want to be walking down a vineyard in heels. The overall mood for the tour is meant to be a relaxing one.
related in Vietnam, the company specialises
With short tours, long tours and wine-and-
in organising guided wine tours to different
travel packages, the website lists in great detail,
Plans are underway to expand Vietnam Wine
wineries around Vietnam, and other destinations
the different itineraries that are available and
Tours’ services to include coffee and tea tours.
around the continent. Each tour also includes
you can choose the one that suits you best.
recommendations on how to pair Vietnamese
The tours are customised, although it’s highly
wines with local cuisine – a unique selling point
recommended that you go with a partner to get
for the company.
the best value for your money.
PO Box 8036, Mount Pritchard, NSW 2170, Australia info@vietnamwinetours.com | vietnamwinetours.com +61 02 9099 5814 / +61 435 558 428
15
How to Golf
Time to tee off! If you’re a golf fan and you haven’t been to these incredible courses, we’ve just planned your next vacation. By Keely Burkey
Beautiful sights… amazing people… delicious
meetings have traditionally been conducted in
food… incredible golf courses?
karaoke bars and bia hoi, who knows? Maybe in a few years the putting greens join the list.
At first thought, “Vietnam” and “golfing” might not seem like the best bedfellows, but it just so happens that this country’s landscapes and current economic growth have teamed up to make Vietnam one of the premier golf destinations of Asia.
Your Golf Tour Through Vietnam FLC Halong Bay Golf Course Doan Kiet, Ha Lam, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Province
This might be why the International Association of Golf Tour Operators (IAGTO) voted the Year in 2016 in Australasia”.
+84 9 1857 8638 | salesta1@huonghaihalong.com huonghaihalong.com | Rates: Not yet available
The good news: this course is gearing up to be one of the most beautiful in Vietnam. The bad news: it’s not open yet. Designed
We talked to Staffan Scherz, the owner of
by Schmidt-Curley with input from Nicklaus
boutique golf tour company Passage to Asia,
Designs, this project includes an 18-hole,
to find out why you should hit the fairways in
71 par links-style golf course on a 153 ha ridge
Vietnam, and which courses around the country
overlooking the majestic karsts of the UNESCO
give you an unforgettable golfing experience.
World Heritage Site Halong Bay. Guests will be able to enjoy training fields, a 2,000 m2
A Rising Industry As Staffan tells us,
“The good thing about Vietnam’s golf courses is they’re all relatively new, so they are in very good condition.”
Laguna Lang Co Golf Resort Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc District, Thua Thien Hue Province | +84 234 3695 881 | laguna@lagunalangco.com | lagunalangco.com | Rates for 18 holes (visitor): VND2,000,000 during regular season (1 April-31 Dec); VND2,100,000 during peak season (1 Jan-31 March)
Designed by Sir Nick Faldo and opened in 2013, Laguna Lang Co between Danang and Hue in
The majority of Vietnam’s courses are less than
Central Vietnam might be the most interesting
10 years old! Besides being new, the majority,
course to play. This championship course was
Staffan reports, are designed to an international
designed with Vietnam’s many landscapes
standard, are exquisitely maintained and
in mind, with fairways that weave between
expertly managed. Many of the best are
trees, over rice paddies and streams, through
designed by famed golfers like Greg Norman,
impressive rock features and along a stunning
Luke Donald and Nick Faldo.
and tranquil bay looking out to the picturesque
Right now you can visit around 35 golf
16 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
clubhouse, hotel and villas.
East Sea.
courses in Vietnam, but expect this number to
Described as the best of the 26 courses Faldo
rise steadily. Golf tourism has become a big
has designed, this par-71 beauty is a must for
industry here, and in Southeast Asia in general,
anyone who considers beautiful scenery integral
so developers are responding. While business
to a well-played game of golf.
Through Vietnam What gives? Let us count the ways. First of surrounded to the east by unique natural forests. Other features include 200 trained caddies, a
Dalat at 1200 Country Club
driving range, a restaurant serving both Western
Da Ron Commune, Don Duong District, Da Lat City, Lam
and Asian cuisine, and a golf shop selling
Dong Province | +84 8 3822 1122 | info@dalat1200.com
internationally recognised brands.
dalat1200.com | Rates for 18 holes: VND2,550,000 (weekdays); VND2,990,000 (weekends)
“I would still call Dalat at 1200 a hidden gem in
Vinpearl Golf Nha Trang
Vietnam,” Staffan says. The designers took full
Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province
advantage of the unique vegetation and climate
pearl.com/golf-courses/nha-trang-overview.html | Rates for 18
+84 25 8359 0919 | v.teetime.vgnt@vinpearlgolf.com | golf.vin-
here and neatly integrated the layout into the
holes: VND2,500,000 (weekdays); VND3,600,000 (weekends)
surrounding scenery. Professional golfers Peter
Opened in 2011, this beautiful course was built,
Rousseau and Kyi Hla Han both had a hand
along with the 5-star Vinpearl Resort Nha
in the design, which, located on a 2,100-acre
Trang and Vinpearl Amusement Park, on 800
lakeside estate, has a microclimate of its own,
metres of coastline on the island of Hon Tre,
with breezes even at the height of summer.
in a bay off Nha Trang that was named one of the 30 Most Beautiful Bays on Earth by Forbes
Sky Lake Golf, Hanoi
Magazine. And if that doesn’t convince you to
Van Son Lake Area, Hoang Van Thu, Chuong My District, Hanoi
visit, this will: there’s a special “twilight special”
+84 24 3371 1234 | booking@skylakegolfclub.com.vn
rate for people who tee off after 2:30 p.m.
skylakegolfclub.vn | Rates for 18 Holes: VND2,520,000 (weekdays); VND2,930,000 (weekends)
Opened in 2012 and designed by An Lee Hwan,
The Bluffs, Ho Tram Strip
all, this Greg Norman-designed course, just 120 km from HCMC, was built along coastal sand dunes that range from 5 metres to 50 metres above sea level. With little vegetation, the sand dunes steal the show, as well as the temperamental, rapidly changing weather. And if you’re feeling rusty, feel free to warm up at the elaborate practise area, complete with short game and long game shots.
Ba Na Hills Golf Club Thon An Son, Hoa Ninh Ward, Hoa Vang District, Da Nang +84 23 6392 4888 | info@banahillsgolf.com | banahillsgolf.com Rates for 18 holes: VND2,815,000 (weekdays) VND3,715,000 (weekends)
This beautiful, rolling golf course was the perfect setting for Luke Donald’s first design project. Rather than alter the landscape, Donald took advantage of the Central Highlands atmosphere to create natural slopes and elevation changes that both frustrate and inspire golfers. The first half is done in a more traditional style,
Staffan calls Sky Lake “scenically one of the most
Ven Bien, Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria, Vung Tau
beautiful in Vietnam”. Just 45 minutes from
thebluffshocham.com | Rates for 18 holes: VND4,252,500
and turns of the surrounding hillside (Staffan:
Hanoi, this course features two PGA-standard
(weekdays); VND4,927,500 (weekends)
“The back nine holes will leave an everlasting
courses with a yardage of 7,625 – the Sky
Here’s high praise from Staffan, who knows
impression”). This must be why the course won
Course, which is open to everyone, and the Lake
what he’s talking about: The Bluffs are
the World’s Best New Golf Course trophy at
Course, reserved for members. The Sky Course is
“probably currently the top course in Vietnam”.
the World Golf Awards in 2016!
+84 6 4378 8666 | info@thebluffshocham.com
while the second half winds through the twists
17
Camp of Approval Why Camp in Vietnam? Travel writer Tom Divers has made camping his business. Now, it can be your pleasure.
Camping is the ultimate expression of independent travel. Sleeping outdoors – by the beach, in the mountains, under the jungle canopy – gives the traveller a sense of freedom and a proximity to nature that no hotel room can ever match.
As a country of exceptional natural beauty and varied landscapes, Vietnam has great potential for camping.
To cater to this new trend, many official campgrounds have established themselves as hubs for urban youth getaways.
Some of my most memorable travel experiences
This is especially true of the southeast coast
in Vietnam have been while sleeping in the
between Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne. All
open. From setting up camp alone under a
within easy reach of Vietnam’s largest city, the
lunar eclipse in the far northern mountains, to
beaches here are scattered with new and exciting
camping with my good friends around a fire
places to pitch your tent (or rent a tent) by the
in a cold Central Highlands’ forest, sharing
sea. Some campgrounds in particular, such as
bottles of rose myrtle wine and watching the
Coco Beachcamp near Lagi or Long Son near
stars, my camping experiences will stay with
Mui Ne, have proved wildly popular with both
me forever.
domestic and foreign travellers. As a result,
There are essentially two kinds of camping in Vietnam: “official camping” and “wild
there’s been an explosion of similar campsites all along the coast.
camping”. Here are some of my favourite places
One of my favourite road trips in the southern
to camp.
dry season is to camp from Saigon to Nha Trang, using the new coastal roads and stopping
Official Camping on the Southeast Coast Although camping for leisure is a fairly new
18 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
at any of the dozens of campsites along the way. These campgrounds usually offer visitors the choice of pitching their own tent (for a nominal fee) or renting one.
concept in Vietnam, it’s increasingly popular with
Depending on the campsite, tents range from
the younger generation of urban Vietnamese,
small, one- or two-person domes for a couple
who are keen to escape the concrete and pollution
of dollars, to large, roomy, luxury pavilions
of their rapidly expanding cities and to travel
which can set you back the price of a mid-range
cheaply and independently of their parents.
hotel room.
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Tom Divers
#iAMHCMC
However, bear in mind that some of these
Bidoup Nui Ba National Park
the jungle-cloaked mountainsides, feeding
campgrounds have been so successful in luring
Fabled for its cool highland climate and pine
amethyst-coloured rivers, where perfect pebble
in the adventure-hungry youth of Ho Chi Minh
forests, new roads have recently opened up the
beaches make ideal campsites. Bathe in the river,
City, that they can become extremely busy,
area to the north of Dalat. Beyond the touristy
light a small campfire, break out the ukulele
especially on weekends and public holidays.
shores of Suoi Vang Lake, a crisp new road
and rice wine, and watch the stars roll out over
leads deep into the endless pine forests on the
the night sky.
Wild Camping in the Forests & Mountains Wild camping is still quite unusual in Vietnam: domestic and foreign travellers rarely bother to carry a tent with them as they travel through the country. But, with the right equipment,
fringes of Bidoup Nui Ba National Park. Find a good camping spot on the soft carpet of pine needles, under the tall, straight, towering tree trunks, and watch the sun go down in the west, lighting ridge after ridge of misty mountains. During the cold night, the wind in the treetops sounds like waves breaking on a beach.
Quay Son River Valley Way up in the northeast corner of Vietnam, the Quay Son River is a jade-coloured ribbon of water sloping through a bucolic valley of terraced rice paddies, bamboo water-wheels and limestone hills, before dramatically tumbling 30 metres at Ban Gioc Waterfall. A weir road
planning, precautions, and a bit of patience
The Western Ho Chi Minh Road
leads over to the north bank of the Quay Son
and common sense, wild camping in Vietnam
Probably the most famous road in Vietnam, and
River, where the grassy, fallow, terraced fields
is superb. Over the years, I’ve camped in many
certainly one of the most scenic, the Western
above the river are excellent for camping,
parts of the country. These are some of my
Ho Chi Minh Road meanders through sublime
affording fabulous views over the waterway and
favourites:
landscapes as it passes through Quang Tri
its magical valley. Settle in for a moonlit night
and Quang Binh provinces, not far from the
accompanied by a hypnotic chorus of cicadas
Lao border. Freshwater springs burst from
and flowing water.
Pu Mat National Park Rarely visited, this part of Nghe An Province juts westwards northwest of Vinh, taking a bite out of Laos. Pu Mat National Park straddles
A Note on Security & Responsibility: If you’re worried about security or local authorities,
the Laos border, south of Highway 7.
try to get permission before setting up camp. Ask a forestry official or a local farmer, for example.
The midlands here, between the Ca River and the Pu Lai Leng Mountains, consist of a glorious landscape of limestone hills bisected by clear rivers and decorated with bamboo groves and
Chances are they’ll be happy to let you camp. UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) is still a big issue in Vietnam. Use your common sense: don’t go marching off into the middle of the jungle. Camp responsibly and don’t give wild camping a bad name: clean up your trash and leave your campsite as you found it.
plunging waterfalls. It’s like a scene from an
About the Author: Tom is the author of independent travel website Vietnam Coracle.
ancient Chinese ink-and-wash painting. Find
Drawing on 11 years’ experience travelling all over the country, his free online guides aim to
a quiet, steamy spot at the edge of the jungle,
give travellers the confidence to explore Vietnam independently, without joining a package
where the foliage meets a stream, and make
tour. He focuses on less-trodden areas, encouraging readers to go beyond the destinations that
camp. Cook up some instant noodles and watch
make up most of the standard south-north itineraries.You can read more about many of the
the mesmerising nighttime dance of fireflies
places mentioned in the article on www.VietnamCoracle.com.
as they flit playfully over the trickling water.
19
Motorbike Dreams: Crossing the Country
Daily Checks Spend a few minutes each day to look at Touring by
scooter
or motorcycle is the best way to explore the many wonders of this country. Sure, a car is more comfortable and provides far more protection and luggage space, but at a cost – staring at the world from an aquarium doesn’t
Want to explore Vietnam? A motorbike is the way to go.
really put you there.
things like engine oil level, tyre pressures and the above-mentioned chain tension. Engine oil lasts longer over long stretches than in stop-start commutes, but make sure it’s reasonably fresh and not too black. It’s the best insurance for engine longevity.
Riding Gear If you come off, medical help is always far away and rudimentary. Padded pants and jacket, proper boots and gloves, and
The climate is not conducive to long trips by
preferably a full-face helmet are the go. And
bicycle, and walking gets you up very close but
don’t forget proper rain gear – ponchos aren’t
not very far.
much use on the open road.
You could cover the intervening distances by
Insurance Check your medical insurance
bus or train, but then you miss most of what’s in between. Convinced? Before you set out on your motorcycle trip, however, keep a few things in mind.
Preparations
policy about holding a Vietnamese motorbike licence or one from your home country. Serious medical attention requires evacuation abroad.
Water The wind dehydrates you quickly, so carry bottled water and drink it even if you don’t feel thirsty yet. Otherwise your body
Type of Bike Any motorbike or scooter is fine for day trips, but on longer journeys, such as a multi-week Saigon-Hanoi adventure, it might make sense to go for chain drive rather than belt drive (as used in scooters and other automatics). Belts are fine around town, but excessive heat build-up over long distances at speed can cause them to snap. With a chain, don’t forget to keep it at the right tension (not too tight or loose), and lubricate it daily. Proper chain lube is almost impossible to find in Vietnam, but really, any oil will do – preferably a thick grade such as used in scooter transmissions. A quick smear of grease works too. 20 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
might cross the “unquenchable thirst” barrier where you can’t stop drinking.
Seasons Avoid the wet seasons if you can (May-September in the South, SeptemberDecember in the Centre, and April-October in the North). Flooded roads are common then, usually not for long, but landslides in remote mountain areas can cut roads off for days.
Navigation Maps are still a government monopoly and aren’t very good. Germanpublished maps are slightly better but they’re hard to get here. See how you go in major bookstores like Fahasa. GPS isn’t always reliable either. Getting lost is part of the adventure!
by Rob van Driesum TRAVEL FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
possible, but dip into the coastal must-sees. For instance, take the mountain pass from Dalat to Nha Trang, then go back inland and dip back out again to descend to Hoi An and Danang. The stunning Hai Van Pass just north of Danang offers unparallelled views. Proceed to the lovely former imperial capital of Hue. Then head back inland to the war museum at Khe Sanh, site of a big American defeat in 1968 similar to the French defeat at Dien Bien Phu. Continue along the western Ho Chi Minh Trail to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, for the
Around Saigon It takes a while to get out of the city and into interesting biking areas. The Mekong Delta is just about do-able in a day, but even then, two or three days are preferable if you want to see village life.
The scenery isn’t mindblowing but the experience will be. Otherwise, you’ll need a week. Go up to Dalat to spend the night (or two). Then take the stunning mountain road down to the highrise developments on the coast at Nha Trang, where you overnight among lobster-coloured Russian tourists. Continue down the coast past Cam Ranh airport to the beautiful new
most stunning limestone caves in the world.
It’s an unforgettable ride over a mostly empty road through hill-tribe villages. Stock up on fuel, though you can get some from a drum at a village halfway. The Ho Chi Minh Trail (there were several, mostly through Laos) is now a good road. Originally it was
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a supply route through mountain jungles to ferry war supplies and troops laboriously from North to South during the American War. When the sappers encountered big rocks during construction, they lit campfires and retreated to a safe distance. The Americans would bomb the obstruction almost immediately so they could
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continue.
road around the Nui Chua Peninsula – ask
From Dong Hoi, proceed inland and/or along
for directions in Ap Gio Ta about half an
the coast to Hanoi.
hour south of Cam Ranh, the turn-off sign on Highway 1 is easy to miss.
Around Hanoi
After that, perhaps spend the night at Ninh Chu Bay east of Phan Rang, with lots of Vietnamese
North(west) of the capital, the mountains offer
tourists on the weekend. Then continue down
some of the best motorcycling scenery on the
the coast to Mui Ne – try to follow the coast
planet, such as this round trip to Sapa:
as much as possible, which may be difficult at times. Spend the night there. Follow the coast road from there via the Ke Ga lighthouse to Vung Tau and the boring ride back to Saigon.
Saigon to Hanoi
Leave Hanoi for Son Tay (highway 32C). Turn left 23km later to Than Son and then follow
“Me, too - All my worldly goods are going to me!”
Your Will?
Specialists in Wills + Estate Planning for Expats in Vietnam
Tel: +84 28 3520 7745 www.profwills.com
highway 32 past Nghia Lo and on to Binh Lu where you turn right and climb the mountains to Sapa. The return takes in Lao Cai on the Chinese border and then you follow the railway
Apple & M icrosoft Exp erts
line down highway 32C back to Hanoi. This is the Big One, 2,000 km (more like 3,000 with loops and turns). A month or more would be good, two weeks is the minimum if you skip many of the sights and experiences.
Highlights include beautiful scenery after Nghia Lo, the most beautiful rice terraces in Vietnam at Than Uyen, and the magnificent climb up the Hoang Lien Son Range to Sapa. Total distance
For scenic delights and peace of mind, stick to
is about 550km. Allow at least five days with
the highlands and avoid Highway 1 as much as
two nights in Sapa.
94 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, District 2, HCMC
21
by Dinh Thinh
Reliving the Past:
Beaches and scenery? Vietnam is much more than that. This country holds thousands of compelling stories. Our historical route guides you to where they’re told. By Arik Jahn When I first came to Vietnam, all I knew about its history was basically what I had seen in Apocalypse Now or read in more-or-less knowledgeable guidebooks. This was both a pity and an opportunity, as I discovered that Vietnam has enthralling stories and the sceneries, architecture and sites to tell them!
Ho Chi Minh City
Con Dao Horror in Paradise Next stop is the Con Dao Archipelago – we can’t let you tour through Vietnam without some quality beach time. And Con Dao happens to be not only pristine, including some great scuba and snorkelling spots, but also a historical site. To cut a long story short: the archipelago was home to the nation’s most dreaded prison during the French colonisation and the American War. National hero Vo Thi Sau was executed here at the tender age of 19. Some Vietnamese think
Get a Subversive Pho You arrive in Vietnam and all you want is a first, authentic taste of the country – in other words: pho.
that Con Dao is haunted by the ghosts of the dead. Before visiting Phu Hai Prison, the oldest and largest prison complex, stop by the adjacent museum to fully ‘appreciate’ the history. The (very affordable) ticket gives you entrance to
But hey, we won’t let you eat just any pho: we
both. Don’t say we didn’t warn you: this is what
start our history lesson at Pho Binh at 7 Ly
people call a sobering experience.
Chinh Thang Street in upper D1, the former hiding place of one of the Viet Cong units that planned the famous Tet Offensive of 1968. While slurping your soup, ask the shop owners about the history of the place and their family. Their English might not be great but you’ll gain some captivating information.
Experience History First-Hand The next day, you obviously do the standards: the Reunification Palace, the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Central Post Office. Look out for an almost 90-year-old Vietnamese man sitting
Case in point: tiger cages. If you want to pay further tribute to the victims, head to Hang Duong Cemetery. The gravestones read like a who’s who of Vietnam’s urban street names.
Hoi An Angkor Not! But Worth It While you are in Hoi An, take a day tour to the My Son Sanctuary an hour west of the city to discover the era of the Cham Kingdom.
in the back of the Central Post Office, Duong
The seafaring Hindu Champa empire had its
Van Ngo, Saigon’s last public writer. He knows
heyday between the 6th and the 15th century
this place like the back of his age-spotted hands.
and controlled all of Central Vietnam. Don’t
If you feel inclined, ask him about the building
expect a second Angkor Wat: this ancient place
and how Saigon has changed over the decades:
of worship is much smaller and was bombed
he speaks English and French.
to ruins during the American War. Invest some
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
by
Hanoi Start Your Tour de North Spend a day or two taking in the ambience of Vietnam’s proud capital by visiting the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Hanoi’s great museums (notably, the Ethnology Museum). Then, go to the historic sites further north. You can catch a bus or a flight to Dien Bien Phu, where the climactic battle of the First Indochina War
The Historical Route
took place in 1954. However, we suggest you mix history with scenery and integrate another historical gem: Cao Bang Province.
Cradle Times Two money in a good tour guide, and consider using
The Better Cu Chi
Located 300 kilometres north of Hanoi along the
an umbrella to protect yourself from the sun.
You may wonder why we didn’t send you to
border with China, the scenic Cao Bang Province
Cu Chi northwest of Saigon earlier on.
is a twofold cradle: first, of the Vietnamese
Hue
The reason: there are better examples of wartime tunnels to be experienced.
The Musts... The old imperial capital of Hue simply cannot not be on this list. It was also one of the main staging grounds for the abovementioned Tet Offensive during the American War. Historical sites abound. Obviously, don’t miss out on the Citadel. Our tip: visit at night from April to September to escape the almost unbearable daytime heat.
From Hue, venture to Vinh Moc, a tunnel system similar to, yet much less touristy than, Cu Chi. It’s in the former DMZ (Demilitarised Zone), a good two hours north of the city by bus or car.
people as it was from here that the Vietnamese expanded southwards several thousand years ago, and second, of the revolutionary movement it was here that Ho Chi Minh created the Viet Minh independence league in 1941 when he re-entered Vietnam after a three-decade globetrotting odyssey. Find yourself a guide in Cao Bang city to go on
It goes without saying that being “demilitarised” didn’t save the area from being bombed during the war, hence the tunnel system that is now more spacious and easier to access than the
Another must are the imperial tombs, the most
better-known one in Cu Chi. Vinh Moc truly
beautiful of which is unfortunately also the
gives you a sense of what life underground must
biggest crowd-puller: Khai Dinh’s tomb south
have been like. There are guides here and a
of Hue. Hiring a guide is recommended.
small museum as well.
an hour-and-a-half journey north to Pac Bo Cave, Ho Chi Minh’s hiding place. Check the newly built Ho Chi Minh Museum. The cave itself is a strikingly simple revolutionary monument. Along with the gorgeously peaceful surroundings, it sets a truly contemplative mood. This itinerary was developed with the kind help of Mr Linh’s Adventures – mrlinhadventure.com.
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23
Finding Your Spiritual Soul Spiritual travellers have existed for thousands of years, and Vietnam has several pilgrimage routes to wow its visitors.
Vietnam has been a multi-religion nation for centuries, receiving cultures and religions from
Religion Runs Deep in Vietnam
foreign countries. Religious followers have lived harmoniously in Vietnam for thousands of years and this is easily observed in today’s society. Meanwhile, as religious conflicts keep arising around the globe, Vietnam should be proud of celebrating Confucianism and Taoism (due to its Chinese heritage), Buddhism, Catholicism, Caodaism, Hoahaoism, Hinduism, Islam and other smaller religous groups (there’s even a Hasidic service for the estimated 200 Jews in HCMC). Despite being known as one of the most atheist countries in the world today (despite deep and surviving traditions of Buddhist, Confucian and Taoist practices), since the start of Vietnamese reform policy in 1986, the state has shown increased religious tolerance and have made efforts to recognise all the religions coexisting in Vietnam.
Before jumping into the places and the facts that make Vietnam a popular destination for holy reasons, we should expand on the importance of religious practices here. As modernity truly starts to sink in, religion and spirituality preserve the core values of Vietnamese society and help people deal with the consequences of rapid development we’re seeing today. Vietnam’s first-time visitors will quickly realise the relevance of ancestor worship and the numerous ways in which the Vietnamese show gratitude to their deceased loved ones.
As a ritual of return to one’s origins, which is focused on the family and community, ancestor worship is part of Vietnamese folk religion traditions and is a widespread practice around the country.
As a result of this, the country is witnessing a rise in spiritual travellers visiting the top
Sneak a peek in Vietnamese homes and you
religious destinations, attending the famous
will notice the adorned altars venerating passed
sacred festivals or experiencing a meditation
relatives. However, the veneration of ancestors
retreat for peace of mind.
goes beyond family and lineage, including
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Emilio Píriz
#iAMHCMC
heroes of the past, local guardian spirits and
Yen Tu
Bai Dinh
gods as well as deceased political figures and
Located 1,068 metres above sea level, Yen
The largest in Southeast Asia, the Bai Dinh
war heroes.
Tu Mountain east of Hanoi is considered
Pagoda (Ninh Binh province south of Hanoi)
the capital of Vietnamese Buddhism. The
is a cultural complex that houses different
story goes back to the 13th century, when
Buddhist structures such as Tam The Hall and
king-monk Tran Nhan Tong abdicated
Phap Chu Hall (the biggest ones), the gigantic
at the age of 35 and decided to spend the
statue of Maitreya Buddha or the 22-metre-high
rest of his life practising Buddhism here.
bell tower.
Ancestor worship plays an important role not only in daily life, but also during pilgrimages to specific sites.
Famous Pilgrimage Sites
He even founded the first Vietnamese school of Buddhism called Truc Lam, Vietnam Zen
Ba Chua Xu Since the early 1990s, the shrine of Ba Chua Xu, the Lady of the Realm near the Cambodian border in An Giang Province west of Saigon, has become the most visited religious site in southern Vietnam, receiving more than a million visitors annually. Mother, benevolent creditor, healer, relationship advisor and business consultant, the Lady of the Realm is one of a group of goddesses whose shrines attract devotees from all corners of rural and urban society. According to the legend, Sam Mountain (An
Buddhism.
During the sixth day of each lunar year, this sacred destination attracts pilgrims from all places of the world as it celebrates a traditional
The Yen Tu Festival takes place from the 10th day of the lunar new year through the end of the third lunar month and has become a big spring festival for Buddhists and tourists nationwide. The pilgrimage route, which winds from the foot of the mountain to its pinnacle, is almost 30 kilometres long and gets quite crowded during the spring festival.
Buddhist festival. Previously, the festival only lasted for a week; now that the state has invested large amounts of money in the complex, it lasts the entire spring. The festival is filled with the warmth of youth, respect for elders as well as the joy of tourists and Buddhists. It’s definitely an experience that
On the first day of the first month of the current
shouldn’t be missed. The complex covers an
lunar year, the site welcomed over 3,800 visitors
area of 700 hectares, and crowds of pilgrims
and expected more than two million visitors
flock around the low and high mountains,
throughout the festival.
woodlands and forests.
Giang province) was once home to many
Did you know...?
invaders who found a beautiful stone statue atop the mountain and tried to take it without success. A little village girl, who revealed herself as Chua Xu Thanh May, told them to retrieve the broken statue and leave it at a designated spot. Today, the statue remains at the same location where the visitors left it and has become a sacred site of worship attracting many pilgrims from the 23rd to the 27th of the fourth lunar month.
Thien Buddhism is the Vietnamese name
This is one of the largest Zen meditation
for the Zen School of Buddhism. King-
study centres in Vietnam, with large numbers
monk Tran Nhan Tong founded Truc Lam
of nuns and monks (many of whom speak
(Bamboo Grove), the only native school
English). This monastery is not only popular
of Buddhism in Vietnam. Truc Lam’s Zen
locally but also among Vietnamese abroad for
monastery is at Tuyen Lam Lake, five
meditation studies as it is under the teachings
kilometres south of Dalat. We recommend
of the venerable Thich Thanh Tu, a renowned
visiting this site by cablecar.
meditation master for many decades.
25
Walk on the Wild Side: The Sporty life
“For me, this is the best solution to understanding Vietnam,”
heavily forested area. “I look for dark green,”
triathlon runner and all-around superathlete
“That means that it’s probably protected land. These are the best places to explore.”
Jean Luc Voisin tells us. By “this”, Jean Luc means mountain biking. And by Vietnam? Pretty much everything that’s not the handful of
Living in HCMC you might not realise it, but Vietnam is actually full of paces to hike and explore. No, really! Read on.
major cities dotting the length of this beautiful country.
Spirit of Exploration
he says.
Some of his favourite haunts include Dak Lak Province, and especially the Buon Ma Thuot area, where he goes hiking, running, mountain biking, canoeing and rafting; along the Dong Nai river around Cat Tien National Park; and Thanh Da Island in the heart of HCMC, where
It’s the vast distances of rural farmland and
he goes running with friends a few times a week.
small villages where Jean Luc and his friends feel most at home (“When we go on these trips, people call us the French Legion,” he jokes). For most people the idea of tackling a dense jungle armed with only a GPS and a first-aid kit might seem, at best, unappealing, but for Jean Luc, it’s precisely this that makes Vietnam so breathtaking – especially for athletes. What does he find so unique about hiking and mountain biking in Vietnam? “It’s the rainy forests. The jungle. I’ve been exploring areas for 15 years, and I always find new tracks.” However, Jean Luc’s adventurous streak doesn’t end with running and mountain biking. If there’s a rock face to climb or a river to kayak or raft down, chances are he’s either heard about it or experienced it himself. So how does he pick where his next adventure will be?
26 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Explore Safely Even though you’ll likely never meet a man as adventurous as Jean Luc Voisin, he’s the first to recognise the dangers involved with exploring the wild side of Vietnam.
“Running is quite difficult here,” he admits. “You have to take care. I always advise the young people coming from Europe, ‘Don’t forget to take water’. You sweat a lot. The temperature of your body is going up, and normally you sweat and the evaporation cools your body down. But there’s no cooling here. You just sweat.” Here’s Jean Luc’s pro-tip: grab some coconut water, which does a great job replenishing lost fluids and electrolytes. And then there’s the actual environment. In the
Jean Luc pulls out his mobile phone and opens
forests you’re likely to run into all manner of
it up to Google Maps. Focusing on a random
insects and animals, along with unmaintained,
region of Vietnam, he points to a dark green,
wild trails.
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Keely Burkey
#iAMHCMC
Not to scare you too much, but also be aware
Black Virgin Mountain
country has to offer. If you’re feeling incredibly
that UXOs (unexploded ordnance from the
Good for: Hiking
ambitious you can tackle the two-day journey
American War) might also be hiding in a
How to get there: From HCMC, many either
up Mt Fansipan, Vietnam’s tallest mountain
seemingly benign bush. Finally, don’t forget
drive their own motorbikes or take one of the
(3,143 metres).
the first-aid kit and mosquito spray.
several buses going daily.
Four Places to Explore
Only about 100 km from HCMC, the Black
Hoa Valley, hiking the beautiful Tram Ton
Virgin Mountain in Tay Ninh Province, an
Pass (1,900 metres) and exploring the different
extinct volcano that’s the highest point in
H’mong and Red Dao villages that you’ll meet
Southern Vietnam, is an ideal daytrip or one-
along the way.
Cat Tien National Park Good for: Trekking, hiking, mountain biking, kayaking How to get there: From HCMC, it’s three to four hours by motorbike. You can also take a bus going from HCMC to Dalat; you’ll be dropped off at the Ta Lai/Nam Cat Tien turn-off. Just a relatively short distance from HCMC, the massive Cat Tien National Park offers a great experience for just about anyone: nature lovers, the spiritual-minded and rugged adventurers. There are dozens of paths to choose from and plenty of opportunities to arrange a
night camping trip for anyone who has to get to work on Monday. There’s a cable car ascending this steep and delightfully perilous slope, but the mix of steep stairs and off-road hiking will keep hikers entertained for hours. Jean Luc agrees that this is a trip worth taking, but regretfully admits that it’s polluted and unkempt now. Expect to see water bottles, food wrappers and everything else you can discard along the way to the Linh Son Thien pagoda near the summit.
kayaking trip or bike expedition with one of
Sapa
the homestays in the area (we recommend Ta
Good for: Trekking, hiking, camping, mountain
Lai Longhouse). If you get tired of hiking and
biking
biking, you can also spend some time looking
How to get there: Fly to Hanoi and take either
at some of WWF-protected animals in the
a bus or the overnight train to Lao Cai. If you
area. Seeing gibbons swinging from trees is
take the train, keep in mind that you’ll need
something you don’t want to miss.
to arrange for a transfer to Sapa, usually in a
Did we mention this is a real jungle? Here are
Other options include exploring the Muong
minibus.
a few tips: bring mosquito repellent, leech-
Simply put, Sapa and the surrounding areas
resistant socks (these suckers can bite through
in Lao Cai Province in Vietnam’s northwest
light shoes and socks) and a GPS.
mountains are the best trekking destination this
Cao Bang Good for: Hiking, trekking, camping, mountain biking How to get there: With no railway reaching that far, your best bet will be a bus. The four- to five-hour journey from Hanoi will cost around VND300,000. If you want to explore the north on foot but don’t want to tread the much-trodden Sapa route, Cao Bang is for you. Resting along the edge of the Chinese-Vietnamese border, you’ll get to explore green, awe-inspiring natural beauty and have fun in the process. One of the major attractions at Cao Bang is the Ban Gioc waterfall, famous for being the fourth-tallest cascade in Vietnam. Also make sure to walk to Thang Hen Mountain lake, which consists of dozens of smaller lakes flowing through limestone formations. And if spelunking is your thing, you’ll love Nguom Ngao cave near Ban Gioc. You won’t be disappointed.
Image by Vietnam Mountain Bike Marathon
27
Fun in the Sun: Watersports in Vietnam Like the water? Then you’re in luck: Vietnam has some of the best watersport conditions you can find.
Vietnam’s coastline has something for everyone,
Suoi Nuoc
whether it is for windsurfing, kitesurfing,
Experienced/intermediate riders: kitesurfing,
catamaran sailing, stand up paddle surfing
windsurfing, surfing, catamaran sailing,
(SUPing), surfing, sea kayaking or even diving.
SUPing
Where are the best spots and what can you
Suoi Nuoc has very similar wind and wave
expect to find?
conditions to Hon Rom but even more space
Note:
on the water. Some fun surf breaks in the early
High season: November/December to April/May (best time of year for great wind conditions) Low season: May to November (conditions are still good for learning and riding but the wind may not be as frequent)
Phan Thiet Region
morning and strong, clean wind in the late morning and afternoon. Full Moon Village Resort is a great water sport outlet. Contact them first to confirm your equipment needs (windsurfing, kitesurfing, catamarans, kayaks, surfboards and SUPs). From Mui Ne Main Beach it takes about 25 minutes by scooter or you can get the local
Mui Ne (Main Beach)
bus which will deliver you to the doorstep of
Kitesurfing, windsurfing, sailing, SUPing,
Full Moon Village (US$1).
surfing and sea kayaking This is probably the best known location in Vietnam for water sports. Mui Ne’s Main Beach (the Ham Tien strip) provides most of the action with an abundance of water sport schools mainly focusing on kitesurfing, and a couple of more specialist clubs offering catamaran sailing, windsurfing, surfing and SUPing.
Pros: Lots of space to ride, good-size waves breaking further out. Cons: Not so suitable for beginners on the stronger days.
Turtle Island Experienced riders: kitesurfing, windsurfing
For monohull sail boats, check Manta (www.
North of Suoi Nuoc (about 5 minutes by scooter)
mantasailing.org). Most of the kitesurf action is
is a location called Turtle Island. Despite the
towards the south end of the strip. Jibe’s Beach
name, you ride from the mainland.
Club has been teaching new kitesurf, windsurf, sailing and surf students since 2000 and has great reviews. Pros: Lots of schools, large choice of accommodation both on and off the beach, lots of riders (safety in numbers), perfect wind
28 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Local bus departs every 15 minutes.
Although you can find some flat water conditions, this spot is recommended for experienced riders only. Unfortunately there are no water sport outlets, so bring everything you need. Cross onshore wind direction with sandy bottom and no reef.
direction.
Pros: Some flat water options, never crowded,
Cons: Lots of riders (can get a little busy
options to ride downwind to find some wave
especially at the southern end of the strip), there
action.
can be a bit of a beach break (waves breaking
Cons: No storage options, no water sport
in shallow water close to the shoreline).
centres nearby.
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Adie Casket
#iAMHCMC
Little Buddha/Sealinks
kitesurfers. You will be riding over reef and tide
There are a couple of resorts with some basic
Surfing
heights can change, so be sure to check the tide
equipment, but if you are serious about your
Little Buddha, mainly known for its clean
charts before you arrive. Many bays in the area
hobby, take your own equipment or rent from
peeling waves, is the perfect place for beginner
are supervised by the military, so stick to the
Mui Ne. Private day tours can be arranged
surfers as well as intermediates. What makes the
recognised water sports areas. If you are looking
through Jibe’s Beach Club.
wave here so special is its predictability. Surf
for a kite tour or you want to stay there for a
lessons and rental are available at a number of
longer period, contact Phi’s Kite Adventures,
schools. Buddha is a very small bay and really
www.phikiteadventures.com. Jibe’s Beach Club
only suited to surfers and SUPs as it can get
offers windsurfing day tours from Mui Ne to
quite crowded.
Phan Rang including full equipment.
Pros: Clean waves peeling left, no reef and an
Pros: Flat water and waves available, strong,
easy to find location.
clean wind.
Cons: Can get overcrowded, better get there
Cons: Riding over reef, certain areas are
before late afternoon.
restricted.
Phan Rang and Surrounding Areas
Ke Ga and Surrounding Area
Windsurfing, kitesurfing, surfing
Kitesurfing, windsurfing
Only recently discovered, the areas around Phan
Get away from the crowds at Ke Ga
Rang offer strong cross onshore wind during
(approximately 1 hour’s travel time from Mui
If you have the time, the skill and the sense
the high season. Most of the locations are only
Ne), which has some great conditions for the
of adventure, why not hit the road and make
suitable for experienced riders, but with the
experienced kiter or windsurfer. Open ocean
your very own discoveries? If you are the first,
correct supervision it may be possible for new
means deep water and some wave action.
just maybe you get to name your discovery.
Pros: You will have the water to yourself, good size waves for the experienced rider. Cons: Very limited equipment outlets, no supervision if you have a problem.
Diving For diving around Vietnam, check Rainbow Divers, a safe, professional service with a number of locations around the country, www. divevietnam.com.
And Even More… Mui Ne might be the capital of watersports in Vietnam, but the 3,000 km of coast in Vietnam has a lot more to offer. Here are some other options for watersport connoisseurs in Vietnam.
Phu Quoc
Con Dao
Nha Trang
This island paradise offers more than just
The very chill island of Con Dao will be a good
No watersports list would be complete
beaches and fish sauce. Snorkeling, scuba
fit for the traveller who wants to enjoy the
without Nha Trang. Dozens of diving
diving and freediving are the sports to focus
beach as much as the water. Diving is the thing
companies dot the beaches, but that’s not
on here. Water explorers will be able to
to do here, and the payoffs for your efforts
the only thing you can do here.
see fish and coral reefs with help from
are amazing. Get in touch with Con Dao Dive
companies like Flipper Diving Club (60
Center (Khu 7, Vo Thi Sau, Con Son Island)
Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc) and Rainbow
and Dive! Dive! Dive! (Nguyen Hue Street, Con
Divers (11 Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc).
Dao Island) to start your adventure.
Other sports include flyboarding (literally propelling yourself into the air with water), windsurfing, kayaking and parasailing.
29
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
by John Brooksbank
Ethnic Minorities in Vietnam The many ethnic minorities in Vietnam don’t exist in a vacuum – they add colour and history to a vibrant, diverse country. The Government of Vietnam officially recognises 54 different ethnic groups in the country, or 53 who are not Kinh, also known as the Viet, who comprise approximately 90 percent of the nation’s more than 95 million people.
Ethnic groups are classified as being members of one of eight language ‘families’ – Han, Mong-Dao, TibetoBurman, Austroasiatic, Tay Thai, Kadai, Malayo-Polynesian or the majority Vietic speaking peoples. While some ethnic minority groups are struggling to maintain traditional culture amid an influx of mainstream Vietnamese and Western influences, many ethnic groups are relatively easy to recognise, having maintained
have a violent history of warfare, maintain traditional rituals – and have a penchant for drinking rice wine at ceremonies and any other suitable occasion! World-recognised travel photographer Réhahn, a resident of the historic city of Hoi An, has made documenting the many different cultures in Vietnam a life passion. As Réhahn notes, “[Most ethnic minorities] live in communities
for example, are thought to have arrived on
where family and group have central roles in
Vietnamese soil only about 300 years ago,
daily life. They are curious about other ethnic
whereas the Tay arrived around 500 AD and
groups. For example, when Co Tu people visit
now live in the north-eastern provinces of Cao
the museum, they use words like brother to talk
Bang, Lang Son, Bac Kan, Quang Ninh and
about other groups, as if belonging to an ethnic
Ha Giang.
group versus the Kinh made them feel closer.” Check out Réhahn’s stunning gallery, Couleurs d’Asie (151/7 Dong Khoi), to get a closer look.
However, they also differ in many ways, due to unique histories and the need to adapt to different environments.
their unique languages, culture, lifestyle and particularly traditional, colourful styles of dress. The largest of the minority groups is the Tay,
Ethnic Minorities in Many Colours
followed by the Thai, Muong, Khmer Krom,
Through his camera lens Réhahn has captured this diversity. “The Red Dao’s tradition of shaving their hair and eyebrows gives them an intense style and visually interesting faces. They also have impressive costumes which take up to six months to complete.” He adds, “They are surpassed only by the Lo Lo Hoa. It takes up to a year to sew more than 4,000 little triangles into their dress. Then there is the Co Tu dance – gracious, poetic and joyful, with the gong giving it a real intensity. I’ve seen
Hoa, H’mong, Nung and many others. In a
Their diversity is perhaps most pronounced in
it many times at the Co Tu Night Festival; I’d
general sense these groups share a rural lifestyle,
the Northern Highlands. The H’mong people,
love other people to see it too.”
30 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
#iAMHCMC
The Thai ethnic minority
“For example the Quang Nam of
are the second-largest ethnic
Hue province are active. Northern
minority in the country. The
groups have proven that there is an
White Thais live mainly in Lai Chau
interest from foreigners in tribal culture; now people have to realise that ethnic groups
and Lao Cai provinces, while the Black Thais can be found more in the provinces
are found everywhere in Vietnam, and some have
of Son La and Mai Chau. They are known
only few hundred members.” An example of these
for their beautifully woven garments and other accessories, and they live in stilt houses designed to protect residents from possible flooding and dangerous animals, as well as to provide shelter for their domestic animals.
Women of the Red Dao sub-group are easily identifiable by their triangular red turbans or scarves decorated with silver coins and red tassels. The men usually wear long pants, shirts and headscarves.
Black Thai women wear green, blue, pink or purple blouses with a distinctive row of buttons, a black skirt and black scarf.
The Importance of Tourism Various NGOs provide support for community-
ancient legends and love to sing and perform
based tourism that involves local ownership
folk dances known as Xoe, Sap and Han
and management, offering tourists the chance
Khuong. Their customs include the practice
to learn about and experience the culture, work
that a husband lives in the house of the family
environment and lifestyle of local villages.
in with his family – a lesson for us all, perhaps!
Fortuitously, the regions that are home to many ethnic minorities have breathtaking landscapes,
The approximately 600,000 Dao, known as
spectacular rice terraces, limestone mountains
jungle people, originally came from southern
and impressive waterfalls that make them ideal
China hundreds of years ago. Their religious
locales for sustainable eco-tourism activities.
beliefs include elements of Confucianism,
Réhahn has seen this during his photographic
Buddhism and Taoism.
travels.
They are divided into smaller sub-groups – Dao with white trousers, Dao with narrow trousers, Dao with coins, Dao with blue clothes and similar descriptive titles.
Challenge in May this year, which, apart from cycling in Sapa, had participants interacting with communities and carrying out a day of voluntary work that directly benefited a local village. A number of tour companies now organise
Thai people have a great heritage of myths and
of his wife until a baby is born, before moving
efforts was the first Hoang Su Phi Mountain Bike
trips to the more remote areas of the country relying on homestays with local ethnic families. For example, Mr Linh’s Adventures Travel Company, based in Hanoi, has a range of tours that focus on the Ba Be National Park, home to Tay, Dao and Hmong ethnic groups. All of his five to 21-day trekking, caving, rock climbing, kayaking, fishing and boating tours include basic but comfortable homestays in local villages.
”I believe the best way to protect ethnic groups is to promote them outside their community, to create a sense of pride and make them realise the value of their heritage,” he says.
31
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Jesús López-Gomez
Knocking Down Barriers: Travelling with a Disability Tourism might be booming in Vietnam, but it’s not equal-access. Some people are working to change this. Dutch travellers Marianne Bukman and her husband Kees Bukman ended up in Saigon the way many people do.
“Everyone said, ‘Vietnam!? Why Vietnam?’” Kees recalled. “I said, ‘Well, why not?’” Their cavalier manner belies a very specific and obvious obstacle. While Kees spoke seated at a table in a chair, Marianne was sitting on the opposite side in her wheelchair, a necessary aid given the severity of her multiple sclerosis. “Of course, yes. People stare sometimes,” he said. “But they’re very friendly in general.”
“What I hate most is if they ignore you. If I’m pushing her and they start asking me about her, that’s the most annoying,” he said. “They ask him everything and they ignore me,” Marianne said with a laugh. “You have to treat the disabled as normal people,” her husband added.
Cross-Country Travel
A cruise on a ship would be an easy way for Marianne and her husband to get out of the
The couple spent 10 days on a tour with Roll in Asia, an agency that specialises in serving travellers with a disability. It included stops in Hanoi, Halong Bay and Nha Trang before arriving in Ho Chi Minh City. The group had toured the highlights including the Reunification Palace, Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica and Ben Thanh Market.
Netherlands. “But it’s not adventurous,” Kees said. “We said we have to search for something different because I’m not going to spend the rest of my life cruising.” Which is why “each trip is tailor made”, Roll in Asia cofounder Charlotte Jean said, describing a lengthy and in-depth planning process between her firm and a prospective traveller to identify
The couple reported their favourite part of the trip so far was dining on the local cuisine.“Every time, new flavors. That’s the basic highlight of the trip. And then to meet all the friendly people of Vietnam,” he added. Before Marianne’s multiple sclerosis limited her mobility, the couple travelled extensively. In the late ’80s, the couple visited Cuba, a nation which they said at the time bore striking similarities to modern-day Vietnam.
While the couple was seeking something that would be appropriate for Marianne’s abilities, they also worried that agencies serving travellers with a disability might be too dull.
limitations, medical needs and any other necessary modifications for a traveller with a disability. “Every trip is different, every concern is different.”
Barrier-Free Travel? The Bukmans’ travel through Asia and the availability of services through companies like Jean’s represents an important step forward in what the United Nations calls “barrierfree travel” – tourism for a population with a disability. In a 2003 report, the UN cited a lack of facilities, resources and even a dearth of data related to travellers who had a disability. The report didn’t cite Vietnam specifically, but said that attitudes about disabilities tend to vary
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32 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
TRAVEL FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
throughout the Southeast Asia region and that a
rigorously to make sure that the facilities can
lack of awareness towards those seeking barrier-
meet the travellers at their specific ability.
free travel can engender indifference.
Kees affirmed Roll in Asia’s unique, tailor-made
Jean vehemently disagreed that the Vietnamese
approach to travel planning. Not even everyone
lacked compassion towards those with a
in a wheelchair has the same ability, and this
disability.
must be taken into account. “One thing for Marianne is that she gets tired very easily. But
“No, I don’t agree with this,” she said. “People are very helpful. They’re actually too helpful.”
I see other guys who are very strong and they’re just wheeling around. Their main obstacle is just the pathways and the potholes.”
Rather than neglecting her travellers, she said
“Every disability is different,” he said. But “they want to be treated like normal [people].”
the level of hospitality was always exceptional, almost to an etiquette-breaking point. Take, for instance, the lack of handicap ramps. Jean said she’s had to stop people from physically
Kees said pedestrian and wheelchair-friendly
carrying a traveller with a disability.
areas were a big concern for him and his wife. “The sidewalks are terrible, and the traffic is,
“There is this big misconception between what
uh, a lot,” he said.
is possible, and what is fine,” she said. So, “if the person has to be carried like a baby during
enough handicap-friendly spaces and activities
But the couple said there’s an idiosyncratic
the whole holiday, that’s not nice.”
to create a journey for their clients. Since the
rhythm to how things are ordered in Vietnam
business’ creation two years ago, Jean and
that accommodated them nicely while they were
her cofounder Clément Abalea have traveled
here. For example, while the drivers appear to
throughout Vietnam identifying a chain through
have their own rules sometimes,
In a by-any-means environment like Saigon, where any street corner is just a few plastic stools and a soup pot away from becoming an open-air cafeteria, Jean said that sensibility can translate to gestures that seem helpful but read less warmly to a traveller with a disability.
Vietnam that would create the most accessible route for travellers with a disability. “At the end of the day, we can have a full and complete trip,” she said. Her agency offers tours
Equal Travel Opportunities, Everywhere
for visitors going through Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Hoi An, Hue, Nha Trang and of course Ho Chi Minh City.
“if you know that rule and just take care of yourself, they afford you,” Kees said. Before they set off for Vietnam, the couple showed their itinerary to their son. He too had travelled through Southeast Asia and visited the same sights. The Bukmans said their son
In lieu of broadly available handicap resources,
Wheelchair accommodation ties into what Jean
registered some surprise when he was told all
Jean said she and her partner have instead
said is a top concern for those travelling with
of this could be done while travelling with a
worked with existing facilities to identify
a disability: hotels. Her firm assesses hotels
disability.
33
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Sivaraj Pragasm
Airbnb My Guest
well-taken photos and descriptions of their listings, and going the extra mile by giving local recommendations on places to visit and things to do. Guidebooks often give you recommendations that are tourist-friendly but may be slightly pricier, so you will never get to know about that particular com tam stall down your street which the locals swear is the best in Vietnam.
The Perfect Mix According to Forbes Magazine, one of the main reasons why the Airbnb model is working so by Thi Nguyen
well in Vietnam, and especially in Ho Chi Minh City, is because it conveniently incorporates a perfect mix of Vietnamese culture in the form
The rapid rise of Airbnb in HCMC took the city by storm. Here’s how it happened. When Airbnb first appeared elsewhere in 2008, it created a new alternative for travellers seeking
A Fresh Tourism Industry with Potential
a nice, personalised home in non-touristy parts of the city they were visiting. However, the idea of home-sharing came with concerns, mainly from homeowners who weren’t too sure if it was a good idea. After all, not everyone is comfortable having a stranger in their home. Here in Vietnam, things took a while to warm up but by 2016, the number of listings in Ho Chi Minh City alone tripled from the previous year with up to 3,500 listings across the city. So, how did that happen?
A Natural Extension to a Local Concept Thi Nguyen, who runs a few listings of her own in Ho Chi Minh City, sees Airbnb as a natural extension to the Vietnamese homestay concept. “It’s an opportunity to showcase our living and cultural abode to our visitors,” she says.
“So what we give is more than just a room for the night. It’s an experience which you can’t get in most hotels.” Originally from Hanoi, Thi moved to Saigon eight years ago and runs her own events company. Needing funds to feed her passion
“Vietnam’s tourism industry is very fresh compared to most other countries in Asia, which brings about both opportunities and challenges,” says Thi. This sentiment is reflected by Hue-born Tai Phan, who spent the last few years working and studying in both the United States and Vietnam, specialising in finance and real estate investment before relocating to Da Nang where he decided to start his Airbnb venture. “I was back in Vietnam consulting for some investors and had a house with empty rooms,” he says. “I used Airbnb before and liked it, hence I wanted to experiment with hosting part-time.
Thousands of guests and many properties later, I’m still enjoying this ‘ongoing’ experiment as if it was my first week doing it.”
Selling the Experience People like Thi and Tai represent the archetypical modern business entrepreneurs of Vietnam by taking full advantage of an existing online model to provide a service.
of sharing and entrepreneurship, which is a fastrising trend among the Gen-Y and Millennial demographics in Vietnam. However, infrastructural problems such as power outages and water shortages are also major issues among guests, although some hosts like Thi and Tai have their respective solutions. Thi ensures that all plumbing, electricity and air-conditioning equipment are constantly maintained and replaced. Tai ensures that he has contacts for electricians and contractors who can respond within an hour, but if that doesn’t work, “You can explain to your guests sincerely about these issues in a friendly way and they would understand,” he says.
The Future of the Sharing Economy Tai believes he can further expand his enterprise by recruiting good people.
“The objective is to create a hospitality group that can help travellers maximise their time during their stay and give good suggestions as to where to go and what to do.” Just like Tai, Thi plans to expand and focus on selling the experience, rather than just the accommodation. In the case of HCMC and Vietnam in general, this could mean a new
for travel, she opened up her apartment for rent
Both of them also strongly believe in the
generation of hosts who incorporate the spirit
and she’s never looked back since. She currently
importance of not being dodgy, by establishing
of entrepreneurship into the sharing culture that
has 11 listings on the site.
a credible online presence in the form of
runs deep in this country.
34 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
TRAVEL ADVERTORIAL
Japan Airlines: Reinventing Flight
#iAMHCMC
choose your dining preference. Would you like a Western meal, or Asian? It’s up to you, whether you fly economy or business. Whatever you pick, you know it’ll be good since the menu is tailored for every destination, created by awardwinning chefs and changed quarterly. If you’d rather read the options in Vietnamese, Japan Airlines is one of the few airlines who goes the extra mile for Vietnamese flyers, translating key safety and culinary information so that all passengers can feel comfortable and understood. The plane touches down, but you don’t have to worry about being late. JAL was named the Best Asia-Pacific Major Airline for On-Time Performance in 2016.
Commitment to the Future While other airlines might have luxurious features and good meals, Japan Airlines makes English: 1 800 577 725 (7 a.m. to 5 p.m.) | Vietnamese: +84 28 3830 6213 (9 a.m. to 5 p.m.) | vn.jal.com
If you’re flying internationally, you care about getting to your destination safely, comfortably and on time. This just happens to be Japan Airlines’ speciality.
Enjoy True Omotenashi If you’ve been to or read about Japan, you’ve probably heard the word omotenashi. While it’s commonly translated as “hospitality”, it’s a
strides to improve communities as well. Never a company to shy away from big problems (hence the company’s motto, “Embrace new challenges”), Japan Airlines is doing its part to take on climate change. JAL has partnered with GE to develop an engine that will dramatically decrease CO2 emissions.
Since 1951, Japan Airlines (JAL) has been
concept that can’t fully be understood in English
leading the pack when it comes to innovative
– it just has to be experienced. The good news is,
commercial flying, and since 1994, Japan
you don’t have to go to Japan to enjoy it. Let’s
Airlines has brought this level of excellence to
take you on one of the three daily flights from
And since Japan Airlines is working to produce
Vietnam.
Ho Chi Minh City to Los Angeles to give you
a better future for our children, it has also
a sense of what Japan Airlines does every day.
decided to education. The JAL Scholarship
Today, JAL serves passengers in both Hanoi’s Noi Bai International Airport and Ho Chi Minh
Even though Tokyo has one of the busiest
City’s Tan Son Nhat International Airport,
airports in the world, with JAL’s services you
sending its premium, affordable international
can easily navigate this airport no matter what.
flights to 571 airports worldwide, from Asia to
As a busy transiting passenger looking for a
North America to Europe.
new gate, JAL’s staff helps you find where you
But even though it’s named Japan Airlines, that doesn’t mean the flights end in the Land of the Rising Sun. Departing from Tan Son Nhat
need to be. How? This airline equips every
by 1.5 percent each year.
Programme, founded in 1975, provides valuable opportunities for high school students all over Asia to come to Japan for three weeks for a cultural exchange programme. Since the start of this endeavour, Vietnam has been a constant participant.
employee with high-tech accessories to ensure
Every year, two students – one from Ho Chi
all operations run smoothly.
Minh City and one from Hanoi – travel to Japan
International Airport, the travel possibilities
You sit in your business class seat, and you’re
stretch worldwide:
glad you did. These chairs are top of the line,
a Saigoneer can choose from daily flights to nine different destinations all over the US. In particular, JAL flies a unique Asia-San Diego route, along with flights to Vancouver, BC and even Europe.
By 2020, JAL is working to reduce emissions
which probably explains why they won the Good Design Award in 2016.
With the ability to fully recline, these seats will turn even the longest red-eye flight into a literal dream. You somehow wake up in time for the dinner
And when you fly with Japan Airlines, get ready
service, and this isn’t one-size-fits-all: the flight
to fly in style.
attendant hands you a menu, and you can
to broaden their minds through leadership training and experiencing a different culture. Much like Japan Airlines’ many international flights, the JAL Scholarship Programme also does its part to bridge countries. With a commitment to excellence, a focus on every Vietnamese customer and continued efforts to make the world a little bit better every year, it’s no wonder JAL won TripAdvisor’s Best Airline in Japan Award, 2017. So, where are you headed next? 35
LCY UK
London
GERMANY
FRA
Frankfurt
CDG Paris
FRANCE
Abu Dhabi, UAE
7h 30m
BSB, Brunei
1h 55m
Bangkok, Thailand
1h 30m
Beijing, China
4h 45m
Busan, South Korea
4h 40m
Doha, Qatar
8h 05m
Frankfurt, Germany
12h 20m
Fukuoka, Japan
4h 50m
Guangzhou, China
2h 50m
Hong Kong
2h 40m
Istanbul, Turkey
11h 0m
Jakarta, Indonesia
3h 10m
Johor Bahru, Malaysia
1h 50m
Kaohsiung, Taiwan
2h 55m
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
1h 55m
Kunming, China
2h 55m
Pakse, Laos
1h 35m
London, UK
13h 0m
Paris, France
13h 15m
Manila, Philippines
2h 50m
Penang, Malaysia
1h 40m
Melbourne, Australia
8h 15m
Moscow, Russia
10h 30m
Nagoya, Japan
5h 15m
Nanning, China
2h 10m
Osaka, Japan
4h 50m
36 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
IST
Istanbul
Atlantic Ocean
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
55m
Seoul, South Korea
5h 15m
Shanghai, China
4h 10m
Shenzhen, China
2h 35m
Siem Reap, Cambodia
1h 20m
T
U
R
U
S
S
I
A
DME
Moscow, Russia
PEK
ICN
Beijing, China R
K
E
Y
C H I N A
XMN
Xiamen, China
PUS
SZX
CAN
DOH
Doha, Qatar
KMG
AUH
Kunming, China
Abu Dhabi, UAE
RGN
Yangon, Myanmar
PKZ
Pakse, Laos
BKK PEN
Penang, Malaysia
KUL
Selangor, Malaysia
JHB
HKG
Hong Kong
RMQ
Tokyo
NGO Nagoya
TPE
TNN
Tainan, Taiwan
Kaohsiung, Taiwan
Hoang Sa Island
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
MNL
Manila, Philippines
Truong Sa Island Phu Quoc Island
KOS
Sihanoukville, Cambodia
SIN
HND
Taipei, Taiwan Taichung, Taiwan
KHH
PNH
Bangkok, Thailand
JAPAN
Fukuoka
Shanghai, China
NNG
REP
Osaka
FUK
PVG
Nanning, China
Siem Reap, Cambodia
SOUTH KOREA
Busan
Shenzhen, China
Guangzhou, China
ITM
Incheon
SGN HCMC, Vietnam
BWN
BSB, Brunei
Singapore
Johor, Malaysia
CGK
Jakarta, Indonesia
Sihanoukville, Cambodia
1h 20m
Singapore
2h 0m
Sydney, Australian
8h 25m
Taichung, Taiwan
3h 15m
Taipei, Taiwan
3h 25m
Tokyo, Japan
5h 45m
Xiamen, China
2h 55m
Yangon, Myanmar
2h 15m
A U S T R A L I A
SYD Sydney
MEL
Melbourne
*world-map by FreeV
37
#iAMHCMC
TRAVEL ADVERTORIAL
Take a Trip to Little Saigon
In 1979 Charlie Soo, the founder of the Asian American Small Business Association, lent his hand to this worthy cause. Rather than focus on the original plan to make a New Chinatown, Soo involved Chicago’s Vietnamese, Laotian, Cambodian and Japanese businesses as well. From here, he worked tirelessly to get what would later be deemed Little Saigon off and running. He gave the Argyle “L” station a US$250,000 rehabilitation, and in 1981 started a yearly “Taste of Argyle” food festival (which has since disbanded, unfortunately). After working with Chicago Mayor Jane Byrne to fix the sidewalks and subsequent mayor Harold Washington, it was largely thanks to the efforts of this man that Argyle Street has a sign that reads “Asia on Argyle” today.
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Overseas, Saigon gets a little smaller. Now you can visit “Little Saigons” all over North America. And believe us, you’ll be glad you did! When people choose their next travel
Vietnamese restaurants, markets and all manner
destination, all too often they just consider the
of little tastes from Vietnam.
broad strokes. The downtown of a city, the
What to Do in Chicago Besides the eclectic and culturally rich Little Saigon, Chicago has much more to offer. As the third-largest city in the US, Chicago is known for its architecture, its food and its sights.
Chicago’s Uptown neighbourhood is home to over 10,000 of the more than 25,000 Vietnamese people living in Illinois.
Grab a world-famous Chicago hot dog to
Argyle Street is a bustling and bright part of the
USA. And don’t forget to sample the amazing
city, but it hasn’t always been like this. In fact, it
pho to be had in Little Saigon – we hear that
was the influx of Vietnamese people that helped
Vietnam Restaurant on 1032 W Argyle Street
make this metropolis a little better.
is the place to go.
Asia on Argyle
EVA Air Makes It Happen
When Vietnamese began to come into the US,
Now that you have a little taste of what
Chicago isn’t the only city in North America
many gravitated towards Argyle and Broadway
Chicago has to offer, we have even better news
with its own little part of Saigon. These
– streets that had a less-than-sparkling history.
for you. EVA Air has a great route to get you
Vietnamese communities, mostly created after
This inner-city retail district had fallen into
to the Windy City. Featuring a short layover
the American War ended in 1975, have sprung
disrepair: shops had closed and it was considered
in beautiful Taipei, it will go as quickly and
up all over the continent: today from New York
unsafe to walk the streets after 5 p.m.
seamlessly as an international flight possibly can.
The turnaround of Chicago’s Uptown
Named one of the Top 10 Major Airlines in the
neighbourhood occurred first when Chicago
Asia Pacific as well as the Best Airline in Taiwan
restaurateur Jimmy Wong bought property
by famed travel website TripAdvisor, it’s EVA
on Argyle Street in the 1960s. His original
Air’s pleasure to give you the most luxurious
When you turn onto Argyle Street in Chicago’s
intention was to make this pocket of Chicago
and one of the quickest routes to Chicago.
Uptown neighbourhood, you can see one of
what he would call “New Chinatown”.
these vibrant communities for yourself. Dotting
However, as an unfortunate accident prevented
And to make matters even better: EVA Air flies
both sides of Argyle Street and the intersecting
Wong from fulfilling his dream, another
one of their coveted Hello Kitty-themed jets to
Broadway Street, you’ll be greeted with bakeries,
developer stepped in.
Chicago. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience!
attractions they can see or visit, and the food they can eat. All of this is important, but these factors often aren’t what give travellers lasting impressions years later.
The best experiences come when you see the many different cultures living together in one zip code.
munch while you hit the city streets. The downtown area is huge, but well laid out and incredibly walkable – in 2011, Chicago was named the fourth-most walkable city in the
Case in point? Little Saigon in Chicago, Illinois.
Big Saigon, Meet Little Saigon
to San Francisco you can find VietnameseAmerican communities operating businesses, helping the community and keeping Vietnamese traditions alive.
38 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
HEALTH FEATURE
by Arik Jahn
#iAMHCMC
Tooth Game: Dental Tourism Vietnam’s dental tourism has been coming on strongly lately. Is Vietnamese dentistry ready to take on Thailand? We set out for the answer. One-hundred-thousand foreign dental tourists, nearly US$150 million of revenue per year – and rising. There’s no denying it: dental tourism is what you would have to call a trend in Vietnam. However, considering the 10 million visitors the country welcomed in 2016, and the much more impressive numbers of its world-leading neighbour Thailand earning US$5 billion from medical tourism each year, one thing is for sure: there’s room to grow.
One might wonder how dentistry manages to
And that’s what Vietnam needs to consolidate,”
be so cheap here. For once, lagging behind is
Dr Sinanan says. Collaboration is the way to go,
actually an asset. Thailand got dental tourism
not competition: making sure clinics in Vietnam
going decades ago. Its main attraction back
reach the highest standards across the board and
then? The low cost. Soon the customers came,
work together with dentists abroad to ensure
whole clinics decided to cater to foreigners and
efficient aftercare. Credibility is key.
the prices saw a strong rise. In Vietnam this hasn’t happened yet. “That helps us to be competitive,” Dr. Nhu adds.
Critical Voices
In this spirit, more and more clinics are pushing to create an association in a joint effort to set
However, not everybody embraces this development. Notably, foreign dentists warn their patients against going to “low-cost
Especially knowing that Vietnam has strong
countries” for their dental treatment. It goes
arguments for travellers to choose the country
without saying: this judgment is biased.
over its competitors: skilled doctors, the latest technology and, most importantly, as Dr. Quynh Nhu Do from Elite Dental Group states,
“The cost for dental treatments is about 20 to 30 percent cheaper than in Thailand.” Not to mention Western countries... Hence the
Getting Vietnam Google-Ready
Dr Adrian Sinanan from Starlight Dental has
common standards and promote Vietnam as a dental tourism destination. In Dr Sinanan’s eyes, one major goal is:
“When people search for ‘Dental Tourism Asia’ online, Vietnam should come first in the Google listing.”
worked in the UK and Australia. He knows
Simply put, when people think dental tourism,
those prejudices all too well.
Vietnam should be the first country to come
“When it comes to healthcare, negative feelings go around like a wildfire. If a country gets a bad reputation, it’s all over.”
to mind. But regardless of all efforts to spread the word, he points out what it really comes down to:“At the end of the day, all you want is provide the best possible service to domestic and
influx from nearby nations such as Australia and New Zealand, Dr. Nhu explains. You catch
Hence what a dental tourism destination
international patients and if people happen to
a direct flight, get your teeth done, save more
needs is an impeccable reputation as a centre
come to your clinic from far, that is great news.
than half of the typical cost, “and with the rest
of excellence. “That’s what Thailand made its
Whether it’s called dental tourism – or just
of the money you travel around Vietnam.”
name on. Malaysia has it for medical procedures.
good dentistry.”
100%
acceptance to ISHCMC American Academy
Congratulations to our Grade 5 students: Above international average results Priority acceptance to ISHCMC schools 92 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Binh Thanh Dist., HCMC
(028) 2222 7788 / 99
www.issp.edu.vn 39
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Recipe of the Month
by The Golden Spoon Awards
Serves: 4 Cooking time: 60 minutes Difficulty: Medium
Ingredients • 500g rice jellyfish • 150g featherback fish • 100g black tiger prawn • 100g ground pork • 500ml coconut water • 50g tomatoes • 50g onions • 100g pineapple • 15g shallots • 50g green onions • 50g ginger • 100g perilla leaves • 100g banana blossom, finely grated • 100g lettuce • 500g fresh rice noodles • 100g roasted peanut
• 2 red chili peppers • 10ml cooking oil • 500ml broth • 20g cilantro • 5g garlic
Spices • 5g salt • 10g sugar • 5ml fish sauce • 4g ground pepper • 7g seasoning powder
Kaya Jellyfish Noodle Soup This recipe comes from the 2013 Golden Spoon Award’s Kaya Restaurant team. Each bite of this soup will be a delicious taste of Vietnamese history and culinary culture, so if you’re in the mood for jellyfish, this dish cannot be beat.
Directions 1. Prep the Ingredients
2. Prepare the Soup
cooked through. Pour 500ml of coconut water and 500ml of broth into the stockpot; when it
Peel the garlic and shallots and mince both
Peel, devein and remove the heads from the
ingredients.
shrimp. Pat the shrimp with paper towels until
Finely chop 1 red chili pepper and cut the remaining red pepper into short shoestrings. Wash and finely chop the cilantro. Cut the white bulb ends from the green onions into shoestrings and mix these with the thinly sliced banana blossoms. Crush the roasted peanuts. Core the tomatoes and finely chop all. Cut the pineapple and onions into small cubes. Peel and chop the ginger into segments; smash each portion with the blade of a knife and mix the ginger with the jellyfish.
dry and finely chop all. Add the ground pork, 10g of finely chopped shallots, 3g seasoning powder, 3g sugar, 1g ground pepper, 2ml fish sauce together with the shrimp and mix together.
boils, skim the top. Roll the paste into small balls and add them to the soup. When fully cooked, the balls will float. Season to taste with 5g salt, 4g sugar, 2g ground pepper and 2g seasoning powder.
Presentation
Put the featherback fish into a separate bowl. Add the 5g garlic, 5g shallots, 5g chopped red
Put the remaining fresh vegetables on a plate
pepper, 1g ground pepper, 3ml fish sauce,
and divide the noodles into bowls. Dunk the
3g sugar and 2g seasoning powder. Blend all
jellyfish into the broth then place on top of the
ingredients into a smooth paste.
fresh noodles. Pour the hot broth containing fish balls, shrimp and pork over all. Sprinkle
Put the stockpot on the stovetop and add 10ml
the chopped onion, cilantro, red pepper, and
cooking oil. When the oil is heated, add the
crushed roasted peanut over the soup.
onion and fry until crispy. Tip in the chopped
Rinse the jellyfish and ginger several times, and
tomato and pineapple and sauté all. Add the
Serve hot alongside the vegetables, red chili
store the jellyfish in ice to prevent melting.
mix of marinated shrimp and pork and fry until
pepper and fish sauce.
40 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
TRAVEL FEATURE
by Kristian Goodchild
#iAMHCMC
Organic Panic? Organic food is taking the world by storm, and Vietnam is no different. But does the country’s problem with pollution put a damper on this trend?
3. They’re GAP certified. Good Agricultural Practices are voluntary audits that verify that fruits and vegetables are produced, packed, handled and stored as safely as possible to minimise risks of microbial food safety hazards.
Vietnam, with its reliance on unprocessed food
International GAP and Vietnamese GAP are
and abundance of arable land, is a great place
similar.
to get freshly grown food. It makes sense that the food sold here should be verifiably organic, however this is more easily said than done.
According to La Holista’s criteria, it looks like some of Organik’s goods are organic, and some are pseudo-organic. But at least it’s trying; just
By definition, organic food is food that hasn’t
be sure to read the labels. If you’re looking for
been affected by chemicals during the growing
organic food a bit closer to home, you don’t
process. Can that even be done in Vietnam, one
have to look further than Dong Nai.
of the leading polluters of the world? And with the air quality so bad in HCMC, how far from the city should something be grown?
The air in HCMC is notoriously bad, among the worst in the world. Bloomberg reported that due to pollution from HCMC and Hanoi, Vietnam sits near the bottom of Yale’s Environmental Performance Index for dirty air, at 170 out of 180 nations. Given environmental considerations, it’s little surprise that one of the biggest names in organic foods here in HCMC bases its growing operations in Dalat, located high in the mountains. Chiara Squinzi of the HCMC-based health food company La Holista reports that there are multiple tiers of organic labelling within Vietnam. For example, Dalat-based Organik (Street 8, Thao Dien, D2), the self-proclaimed “leading organic food distributor”, uses three different definitions of “organic” for their food:
Organica: Locally Sourced, Safe and Healthy Shop 1: 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 | +84 28 2253 0602 Shop 2: 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 | +84 28 6673 3350 Shop 3: 54 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan D. | +84 28 6685 0532 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 | +84 28 2253 0602 | shophuuco@ gmail.com | organica@organica.vn | organica.vn
Our pick for the best safely grown food has to go to Organica. These entrepreneurs grow their food surprisingly close to HCMC, in Dong Nai province. Despite the proximity to the city, it has recently acquired European organic certification and, it appears, only sells its own food in three HCMC shops. Three years of careful estate management has given its farms a micro-climate in which harmful pests are destroyed by friendly bugs, and the clean air and soil makes for perfectly organic food. This is no easy feat, so enjoy it!
Increasing Options
1. “Organik’s organic certification is European and has been obtained after proper sampling, testing and monitoring soil, water and produce for at least three years before certification and renewed every year provided standards are met,” she says. They also obtained HACCP (Hazard Analysis & Critical Control Point) certification for the processing area, also checked and renewed every three years.
Whether or not Vietnamese produce can ever be labelled “organic” by European standards, the increased efforts to make food safer and more healthy is definitely a trend rising rapidly in popularity. Besides Organica and Organik, plenty of other options have opened up for consumer hungry for healthier food options. Annam Gourmet Market (16-18 Hai Ba Trung,
2. Selected products are based on conventional
D1), Nam An Markets (Street 21, Thao Dien,
farming. The difference is that the supplier
D2) and 5th Element (Unit 01-01, Vivo City,
farmers gear towards organic with no
Nguyen Van Linh, D7) are all also worth
additional chemical inputs, but residues and
seeking out if you’re keen to cook something
drifts can be found.
healthy tonight. 41
#iAMHCMC
ENVIRONMENTal FEATURE
by Jesús López-Gomez
Weathering the Storm: Flooding in HCMC available, some of the cost being covered by
As HCMC gears up for another rainy season, a long-term fix for road flooding seems further and further away.
international aid. Indeed, when the World Bank’s chief Vietnam liaison Ousmane Dione visited the country for the first time in September, he affirmed the global aid group’s support. Dione’s previous positions with the World Bank were responsible for water control throughout the Southeast Asia region.
by podoboq
The city’s flooding unit identified 21 flooding hotspots in 2015 and 56 in 2016. Its goal this year is to eliminate 12 of them.
During last year’s monsoon season, the Centre
This represents a fraction of the city’s ongoing
This may prove to be an uphill battle due to
Asiatique de Recherche sur l’Eau (“Asian
financial commitment to flood relief. In
an unusually early monsoon season. In April,
Water Research Centre in English) recorded
September, Ho Chi Minh City announced a
photos of passengers disembarking from a plane
an astounding 44 flooded streets.
VND 97 trillion (US$4.3 billion) water control
onto a flooded tarmac made rounds on social
effort, which will span the next five years and
media. Tran said inundation continues to plague
calls for the construction of three reservoirs
the city because of residential construction,
and a group of pumping stations. A centerpiece
particularly what he feels is a need for greater
group of projects is an eight kilometre, three-
sensitivity to hydrological concerns.
The six-month rainy season officially starts in May, but the centre has already recorded 22 flooded streets in 2017.
Issues with Infrastructure “Misuse of water diversion infrastructure –
metre-wide sewage pipe to keep trash out of a key natural water diversion resource, the Saigon River.
Seeking International Relief
filling canals or blocking water drains – has in the past been the driving cause of Ho Chi Minh City’s flooding events, and Asian Water Research Center researcher Tran Ngoc Tien Dung said that remains the key culprit.
“The situation [has not] changed,”
defines a flooding event as water accumulation over 10 cm and if the water remains 30 minutes after a rain event.
As far as the rain itself goes, Tran said beware the first half hour of a rain storm. Precipitation events tends to produce the most rainfall during
The flood effort has won international
that time. Tran added that rain storms tend
cooperation. The Dutch government will help
to cluster themselves around the afternoon, so
build the three 10,000-cubic-metre reservoirs.
until around November, be ready for rain any
In the project announcement, the city stated
time during 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. Also, “always
it had 40 percent of the funding immediately
have a raincoat with you.”
How to Drive in the Rain…
Tran said in an email giving the centre’s flooding findings for this year. The research centre
Going with the Flow
Rainy season befalls us now, but duty calls nevertheless. For those driving in the rain, here are a few helpful tips courtesy of DC Motorbike (217 D2, Binh Thanh D.) to keep you and your bike going through the precipitation despite a precipitous travel itinerary. [ If you disregarded the above and went forward
[ During heavy downpours, wait until more
Beyond being a nuisance to drivers, flooding
anyway, no worries. Shut the bike down, move
favorable conditions if possible.
can threaten critical resources, as in Tan Son
it to a dry place and use the kickstarter to
Nhat Airport in 2016 when flooding there
activate the bike. A running engine will push
[ If the water level is above the exhaust, do
endangered the power station serving the
any water out of the exhaust.
airport. A disabled power station would have shut down the control tower. Ho Chi Minh City responded with an immediate US$16 million worth of flood abatement construction. 42 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
not proceed. A flooded exhaust can cause problems with the engine and may result in
But if you use the electric starter, you may
a damaged electric starter. These are costly
damage it.
problems that you can avoid by staying away
A manual initiation is best.
from shin-high water.
IT’S A LOT IT’S A LOT BETTER BETTER AT AT NOVOTEL NOVOTEL
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