By Locals, for Locals
citypassguide.com
October 2016
shopping
/ “If shopping doesn’t make you happy, then you are in the wrong shop.” /
Three Secret HCMC Shops
A Closer Look at Leather
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Saigon’s Wonderful Specialty Markets
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News Recap • Features • Meet The Expert • Events
published by
#iAMHCMC
NEWS RECAP
News Recap
#iAMHCMC
By Locals, For Locals
Vietnam’s Role in Africa’s Poaching Crisis Cannot Be Ignored CEO Patrick Gaveau
by ArchiMedia
There is rarely a cure-all to save a threatened species. However, Vietnam could shut down its rhino horn trade and rewrite the future for rhinos
With such an overwhelming amount of shops, markets and malls throughout the city, finding what you need can often be a daunting task to conquer. In this month’s edition we are providing expert insight into all things shopping in HCMC, including hidden gems, the boutique scene, local markets, online shopping and more. Take a peek at what we’ve uncovered and get ready to explore Saigon’s diverse shopping scene.
To provide an innovative and interesting English portal of local insight for HCMC’s working professionals. CORE VALUES
Unity: We bring our readers together under the “Saigonese” identity
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Quality: We create thoughtful, insightful and reliable content
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largest rhino population, nearly 6,000 rhinos have been poached since 2007. Responsibility lies heavily on demand in Vietnam. The poaching crisis erupted a decade ago when a rumor began circulating in Vietnam that rhino
Vietnamese Architect Vo Trong Nghia to Accept Prince Claus Award
horn cures cancer (it doesn’t). A few years later, the last known Javan rhino in Vietnam—belonging to a rare Southeast Asian species—was found dead
Vietnam’s renowned architect Vo Trong Nghia has won the prestigious 2016 Prince Claus Award, which honors visionary artists and organizations
In Vietnam, rhino horn is gifted whole to a
worldwide.
family member or potential business partner,
Nghia and five others will be presented with the
or ground into a powder for consumption as a
awards at the Royal Palace Amsterdam by Prince
party drug or cure for hangovers. Like the cancer
Constantijn of the Netherlands on 15 December,
link, there is no scientific evidence that it has
the Prince Claus Fund said Tuesday [6 September].
any effect at all. Nonetheless, the horn is equated
According to the Prince Claus Fund, Nghia, 40, is
with social mobility and success, booming in
an architect who is putting sustainable architecture
popularity alongside an emerging Vietnamese
on the map by combining local materials and
middle-upper class.
traditional skills with 21st century design.
Top Athletes Vie for Second ‘Sports Oscar’ Awards
Vietnam Issues Arrest Warrant for Former Petrovietnam Construction Executive
has arrived, with new candidates and categories up for voting to honour national sportsmen.
An international arrest warrant has been issued for
The race for the so-called ‘Vietnam Sport Oscar’
a former chairman of PetroVietnam Construction
kicked off in Hanoi. The award is believed to be
JSC, amid an investigation into losses of almost
the biggest national prize for athletes who have
$150 million at the company, Vietnam’s Ministry
competed and brought home success.
of Public Security said Saturday [17 September].
“After holding the awards for the first time last
Trinh Xuan Thanh, 50 years old, is accused of
year, we saw it having a great impact on our
“deliberately acting against the State’s regulations
athletes. They have worked harder in training
on economic management, causing serious
and competed stronger in tournaments,” said
consequences,” the ministry said in a statement.
Tran Duc Phan, head of the organising board.
The warrant comes after his expulsion from the
Enjoyment: We infuse our work with lighthearted fun
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their horns. In South Africa, home to the world’s
HANOI - The second season of the Victory Cup
Usability: We present interesting, engaging ideas in a relatable way
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Rhinos are being systematically hunted down for
with its horn hacked off.
“Dilemma: shopping makes me happy. Spending money makes me depressed.”
»»
in the wild.
Originality: Our work is elevated with unique illustration and design Have feedback? Contact me at patrick@innovo.vn
Communist Party of Vietnam, and the arrest of four other executives from the company,
Editor-at-large Patrick Gaveau
ILLUSTRation Zoe Osborne
Project Director Adam Fisher
Writers Keith Hancock Jake Hornberger Zoe Osborne Quang Mai Rosemary Cook Anupa Horvil Christina Yu
content manager Aleksandr Smechov Design Pham Mai Trang Bao Le
No part of this publication may be re-produced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.
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including former Chief Executive Vu Duc Thuan. Mr. Thanh is believed to have left Vietnam, local media reported Saturday. None of the five former executives or their lawyers could be reached for comments. Under Vietnamese law, a charge of violating economic regulations carries a prison term of up to 20 years. State-owned oil company Vietnam Oil & Gas Group, or PetroVietnam, owns by EPA
a controlling stake in PetroVietnam Construction.
NEWS RECAP
Vietnam’s ‘Stunning’ Rise in School Standards
#iAMHCMC
by Charles Chan
Vietnam’s performance in the last international Pisa tests was a stunning achievement. In 2015, Vietnam surprised the education world, and itself, by achieving a ranking of 17th among 65 nations participating in the Pisa (Programme for International Student Assessment) tests run by the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development. It was the first time Vietnam had entered Pisa and Vietnam’s 15-year-olds did better than their English peers in maths, science and reading. Against this picture of Vietnam’s international achievement, it was just as surprising that, at about the same time as the Pisa results were published,
Cong became the first-ever Vietnamese athlete to
covering 40 percent of the global economy,
snatch a Paralympic gold medal as he finished the
Vietnam was expected to be among the first
competition with a new world record of 183kg.
to ratify the TPP, the prospect of which helped
Silver medalist Omar Qarada from Jordan finished far behind, with a lift of only 177kg.
spur record foreign investment last year in its booming manufacturing sector.
The bronze medal went to Hungarian Nandor
“The TPP will not be on the assembly’s agenda
Tunkel, who lifted 155kg.
because the government’s proposal is not completed,” a parliament source familiar with
the government announced a programme
With over a week left in the Rio Games, the
of “radical and comprehensive educational
team is in high spirits and proud to continue
renovation” to its schools. It decided that nothing
showering Vietnam with glory on the back of
Vietnamese ratification was widely considered a
less than wholesale change to the curriculum and
the country’s first Olympic gold last month with
formality, having already been approved in January
textbooks, pedagogy, assessment, teacher CPD,
a record-breaking performance by shooter Hoang
by the top brass of the ruling Communist Party.
and leadership and management was required.
Xuan Vinh. This year has been a true success for
The National Assembly is 96 percent composed
But what could be wrong with a school system
Vietnam’s Paralympic athletes, and hopefully a
of party members and domestic opposition to
that had just surpassed all expectations in Pisa?
sign of what is to come in the future.
the TPP is unheard of. Its next session begins on
the matter told Reuters. He did not elaborate.
20 October.
Vietnam Claims First-Ever Paralympic Gold Medal
Vietnam Delays TPP Vote
The delay means that at the earliest, ratification by Vietnam would be several months after the
HANOI - Vietnam will not include ratification
Nov 8 US presidential election. Obama’s trade
Paralympic weightlifter Le Van Cong’s final
of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) on
policy has come under heavy domestic scrutiny
attempt in the men’s 49kg paralympic weightlifting
the agenda for its next parliament session, an
during the US campaign, with Democrat Hillary
competition made history for Vietnam as he
official said on Friday [16 September], adding
Clinton expressing reservations about the TPP
secured the country’s first ever paraylympic gold
to uncertainty over the future of US President
and Republican Donald Trump firmly opposed.
medal at the 2016 Rio Paralympics in Brazil at
Barack Obama’s signature trade deal. As
Ratification of the pact by US legislators is by no
dawn on Friday [9 September].
arguably the biggest beneficiary of the deal
means certain.
(All the above News Items have been sourced from: Wall Street Journal, BBC, TES, Thanh Nien News, Tuoi Tre News, Reuters, Bangkok Post)
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FEATUREs
Future of Fashion in Saigon by Aleksandr Smechov
Photo: Edi Luong | Model: Kim Nha | Designer: Ivan Tran | Makeup: Minh Chu
Fashion has exploded in the last decade. Reality shows like Project Runway and Next Top Model have intrigued young designers, and a design revolution has been brewing for some years now. Vietnam Fashion Week is in its third year and is
pair of jeans if they fall apart after six months
incredibly successful. There is a higher demand
of use? There are examples of this on both sides.
for quality products. And with the advent of the
Vendors in Saigon Square keep producing faker
new Takashimaya mall, international brands
fakes for profit, killing themselves in the process.
have suddenly poured into Vietnam in droves.
On the other end, many young designers started
But is it all sustainable? One of the country’s
out curious and ambitious, but many closed down
most recognised young designers, and founder
due to a lack of foundational knowledge required
of Vietnam Fashion Academy, Huy Vo, believes
to build a sustainable clothing business.
not so much; at least, not yet. In 2007-2010, the boutique fashion scene was
True Domestic Quality
thriving. Shops sprang up like wildfire, and the
money into the cafes, the owners sell, the staff are secondary, and eventually the project goes bust.
The Missing Factor Huy Vo stresses the need for education, how knowledge creates a solid foundation. What if you know how to draw a beautiful piece of clothing, but don’t understand how it’s constructed? And then there is the question of history. Some young designers figure they don’t need to know the history of fashion in order to design - but you ask them what were the styles of the 20s and 40s and they come up with surface-level answers, says Huy Vo. They don’t understand the background of the
rich Vietnamese found wonderful new clothes to
With malls you get the surface - the presentation,
time, the trends, the political situation of the era
buy. But after the stock market plummeted, sales
the brand, the space - but not what people actually
that influenced the style. Without this knowledge
slowed, and the short burst of success gave way to
want to buy. Where do people actually shop these
they limit their ability to incorporate what they
a more revealing truth: the trendy young designers
days? Social media is a powerful tool for young
know about their designs, talk extensively about
who started strong now realised they had little
designers, and chat apps and social networking
their wares, or innovate.
foundation to support themselves. Shops began
sites like Zalo, Facebook and Instagram have
to close, giving way to big name retail spaces.
everyone from teens to middle-aged adults selling
World Class
their wares. Then there are local corner shops,
Big Brand Dilemma
and Amazon-like sites like Lazada and Leflair.
This doesn’t mean the shopping scene in Vietnam
True domestic quality comes in the form of
is lacking in world-class products. Almost
The fashion scene is still growing, but the question
passionate designers with sustainable brands
anything handmade in Vietnam is beautiful.
still remains: how can domestic designers and
- thinkers who think forward. Notable names
Lacquerware, embroidery and textiles are of first
brands compete with the wave of big brands
include Antonio De Torres, Lam Gia Khang, Huy
rate quality. Items like these have much potential,
jumping on the bandwagon? Huy Vo mentions
Tran, Do Manh Cuong, Adrian Anh Tuan, Li Lam
with enough culture and craftsmanship behind
three crucial factors for any designer’s success in
and Cong Tri, among others. Some examples of
them to create an excellent story. In this case,
the marketplace: brand identity, customer service
good fashion boutiques are Nosbyn, Cashew,
the brand identity is missing, but the quality is
and quality.
Wephobia, Ren, The Blue T-Shirt, Thuy Design
there. Marou chocolate and Vietnamese rice -
House and Annacoco.
both quality products that come from Vietnam
The first two - brand identity and customer service
- have reached international attention because of
- are easy. Many young designers are inherent
Huy Vo says the problem with any industry in
digital marketers, and naturally use social media to
Vietnam is that many upcoming players think
promote their products in ingenious ways. Serving
in trends, not sustainability. When the question
their customers doesn’t seem to be an issue either.
is posed, will it last in the next 5-10 years?
But when quality comes into question, there’s a
There are blank stares. To see what happens next
noticeable gap. What good is a trendy blouse if it
just look at coffee shops: there seems to be a
Huy Vo heads the Vietnam Fashion Academy
doesn’t look great after a few washes? Or a nice
new cafe popping up every day. Investors pump
14 Ton That Dam, D1 | Hotline: 09 2303 1188
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their quality and outreach. Vietnamese clothing can reach this potential, but there is a lot of work ahead for designers and business owners - mainly in the form of education and planning.
FEATUREs
#iAMHCMC
Diminishing Space for Vietnamese Designers by Christina Yu & Jake Hornberger Christina Yu by Aaron Joel Santos
Why are all of HCMC’s boutique shops disappearing?
their work, and an almost non-existent platform
owners, like Floralpunk have been successful
for local designers to evolve.
in finding alternative locations. Floral Punk
Although the thought that there is not much hope In the past, HCMC was a boutique shoppers paradise, hosting hundreds of artisan shops all over what is now the corporate-dominated walking street. But where have all these gone and what is their future amidst the globalisation of this hot spot? In order to find answers I sat down with Christina Yu, founder of the prestigious multinational accessory line Ipa
for local designers to compete with the big names leaves us feeling a bit bleak, there is certainly some light at the end of the tunnel.
“There are plenty of young intellectual designers out there taking risks, and consciously crafting new items with first rate materials.”
strategically placed her small boutique at 40E Ngo Duc Ke, between the famous walking streets of Dong Khoi and Nguyen Hue, making it quite easy for people to stumble upon by foot. Ly Tu Trong is one area that is quickly becoming home to various well known fashion names opening shops above ground floors. L’Usine offers a whole different kind of experience as it’s both a boutique shop and restaurant. This
Nima, and Quentin Axlerod, founder of Bliss
As a result of iconic designers like Christina
Magazine. This discussion brought about
Yu, and Ipa Nima’s groundbreaking approach
many thought-provoking topics within Ho
to production, some have come to value and
Chi Minh City’s rapidly evolving retail market.
appreciate the importance of using quality
Since 1997, Christina’s Brand Ipa Nima has
materials to meticulously hand make each item.
been handcrafting some of the best accessories,
Taking the time to passionately create your own
handbags and wallets for thousands of mid-high
merchandise can be rigorous, time consuming and
end consumers alike.
intimidating in light of major international names.
Although there are a handful of established
With little government support towards a proper
designers like Christina still finding success
platform for talented locals to display their work,
in Vietnam’s fashion scene, the numbers are
it seems that we may need to rethink how the
certainly lacking.
boutique shops will manage to be profitable
As the industry develops, local designers
without having a prime establishment that
are going to have to do what they do best -
doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. In lieu of this
be creative, in order to keep up during this
insight, there are a handful of innovative artists
transitional period. Considering the amount
working to circumvent big brand takeover by
of passion, dedication and resourcefulness of
Perhaps there is not enough trust from consumers
utilising retail space in a new way. Considering
Vietnam’s top designers, we hope that they
in Vietnamese produced goods, but why is this?
the price of rent for ground floor space, most
will successfully manage to find their place to
From Christina Yu’s point of view this boils
shop owners have been forced to move up to the
compete with some of the world’s most powerful
down to a shortcoming of education regarding
second or third floors. This results in less traffic,
brands. And for you shoppers - don’t be shy. Take
local support, a shortage of affordable and
as many shoppers will often just stick to the
a trip up those rugged looking staircases, and
centralised space for local designers’ to promote
ground floor shops for convenience. Some shop
open the doors to Saigon’s true fashion scene.
“Less emphasis has been put on quality and personalisation by many designers as many just follow European trends.”
duality is the perfect model of how to utilise space in a more effective manner. As people enter for the bistro-style French cuisine, customers are unexpectedly pulled into the boutique shop as well. This kind of arrangement is ideal, and a creative way around the high prices of the centralised shopping locations.
“HCMC is booming with international brands which leaves many boutique artisans at a loss.”
Photo: Lam Minh Khang | Model: Phi Phuong Anh | Fashion Designer: Lam Gia Khang | Stylist: Mi Goi | Makeup: Quan Hoa Nguyen
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FEATUREs
Three Secret HCMC Shops by Rosemary Cook & Aleksandr Smechov
There are plenty of shops in Ho Chi Minh City full of amazing items - the only problem is finding them. Rosemary Cook organises shopping tours in Ho Chi Minh City - taking her clients to littleknown shops to discover a world of quality fashion, furniture and homeware unbeknownst to the general expat (and even local) population. We sat down with her to get three superb recommendations every shopping fan should visit.
addictive - you buy one and you keep wanting
also has a standard line as well. She runs a place
to buy more and more. The items have natural
in District 2 called The Factory, which showcases
colours and “organic” shapes, so it never looks
and teaches about contemporary art. The Factory
mass produced - there are also homeware made
also runs workshops, has a gallery space, a library
of thin but very durable porcelain. You can put
and a little cafe.
items here in the dishwasher and bake things like souffles in their pots - they’ll withstand heat and pressure well. They also do things like hand and bath towels created from natural cottons, which
Kujean by Chuong Dang (47 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 +84 9 0886 6161)
are done in a very eco way - they’re quite thin but dry really well. These are also from Amai.
Kujean is another unique shop. The owner,
Sedec also makes table napkins with maps of old
Chuong Dang, mostly focuses on making ao dai,
Saigon on them, as well as pillowcases. The shop
but also buys jeans from flea markets in various
also has these great cheese knives in the shape of
chic cities, brings them back to Saigon and gives
a mouse. It’s a great little gift for someone and
the pairs new life. He adds things like flowers
it comes beautifully boxed. Additional items at
and dragons onto the jeans, as well as various
the shop include baskets, interesting bottles, and
patterns. It’s a really cool shop that’s affordable
food covers for outside dining.
for what it does. It’s in this little alley in D3. The reason I found him is I saw a lady wearing his
Sadec District (3A Station, 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 +84 9 0384 6281)
Thuy Design House (132 Dong Khoi, D1 +84 8 3824 8343)
jeans and asked her where she got them. She let me get on her motorbike and led me to the shop. The owner has jeans for both men and women. If you have an old pair of jeans that are falling
Thuy Design House is on Dong Khoi. Thuy herself is more of an artist - she never studied fashion formally. She studied art in Eastern Europe. Most
apart or that you want to customise, you can take them there and “tattoo” something onto them. They always serve you fresh fruit and tea. They really look after you.
Sadec is everything homeware and pottery. Most
of her clothes are like artworks. They’re stunning,
of their pottery comes from Asia, and it’s really
with very interesting patterns and prints. Thuy has
Rosemary visits the above shops and many more
stunning. Amai is one of their major brands - all
been a big player in Vietnam’s Fashion Week. Her
on her shopping tour. She meets clients, gets a brief
the pieces were designed by two Dutch ladies who
clothes are made to fit anyone - and if they won’t
on what they’re looking for, takes a look at some
lived in Vietnam for many years, before selling
fit she’ll make to order. A lot of her clothes are
of their staple pieces in their wardrobe and then
everything to Sedec. Buying things here is quite
one-off pieces since they’re painted on, but she
spends all day going to secret shops with them.
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FEATUREs
#iAMHCMC
A Closer Look at Leather by Anupa horvil & Aleksandr Smechov
Anupa, owner of Anupa Boutique on Dong Du, has worked with leather for 14 years, specialising in sourcing, tanning and making her leather bags and accessories. How was the animal treated? If you imagine
buck and sell for a hundred. But thanks to them
someone being whipped and beaten, you
(and mounting pressure to improve R&D) we
can guess how skin can change under
now have found more effective ways of tanning
stress and cruelty. When a baby is born,
animal skin.
a mother has stretch marks. Animal leather is no different, and everything from a calf being born to sickness shows up on end product.
Her work goes all the way up the supply chain
several factors she considers:
good thread, and is stitched properly, weight will
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Where the raw leather skins come from
be distributed appropriately, no matter how many
(purchasing from meat farms where cattle is
things are crammed into your bag. This keeps
raised for food consumption is key).
your back and shoulders safe and makes the bag
What makes leather usable in the
last for quite some time.
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manufacturing process comes down to the mechanical and chemical treatments used
#iAMHCMC to give her know-how on this much-
during tanning. Main factors to consider
loved material.
maintenance, water resistance, weight, strength, scratch resistance and pliability. »»
And the final part is the appearance. There
One of the most interesting facts about leather
are dozens and dozens of shades of black,
is that it has experienced widespread popularity
whilst white is the hardest colour to tan. So
since 3000 BC. During the Roman Empire,
creating the final colour, which is part of
it was widely known that sails used on
tanning process, is a big decision to make.
Big Brands: Not Your Enemy
of your home covered with stylish leather was the rage in Florence and Venice, Italy. By the early 19th century, wooden golf balls
To ensure the best tanning practises have been used, testing in a lab is the true way to really know if your leather meets standards. Ultimately, the consumer isn’t expected to know the tanning process - they just see the bags on the shelf. So trusting the brand owners (designers) to make
Anupa stresses the fact that buying copies of genuine leather items is bad practice and doesn’t
weapons, and body armour. Approximately
women. In the 17th century, having the walls
So how do you know your leather bag is quality?
sure quality materials is what you can expect.
boats were made of leather. Other common
recorded that men wore leather before
Getting the Perfect Tan
include texture, durability, comfort, grain,
4,000 Years of Leather
by fashionable Egyptians; originally it was
leather product. Thread plays an integral part of the quality of the finished product. If a bag uses
a luxury leather brand. She sat down with
1000 years later, leather started being worn
which is using the best materials to finish the
When Anupa creates a leather product, there are
making her unique in her attitude to creating
uses included household furniture, tents,
Now we get to the final stage of the process,
With so many steps, one can imagine how much time and effort is put into producing quality leather; we can thank companies like Nike and Adidas who have undertaken extensive R&D
necessarily mean you are getting a quality product. It also disrespects the producers who are behind the R&D of the modern leather process, which has helped boutiques with their own products.
to advance the tanning process and what we
Buying quality leather also ensures the product
can do with leather. Some may dismiss these
will last - and this is one item you’d want to stay
big brands, thinking they manufacture for a
with you for a while.
were replaced with leather ones.
It All Comes Back to the Cow Leather is quite special - it has the ability to maintain and absorb humidity, and provides proper ventilation. Leather also has the unique ability to regulate temperature, which can insulate us against the cold but also ventilates excessive heat effectively. Look at your belt, your shoes, your bag - you’re probably wearing at least one or two leather items at a given time. When we talk about leather, we begin at the source: the cow (or whatever animal) that gave us its skin.
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FEATUREs
Top Cultural Gifts in HCMC by Quang Mai & Keith Hancock
We surveyed travellers and expats as to what their most popular cultural gift purchases are. Here’s what they chose.
Mekong Quilts
Traditional Dress (Ao Dai) Since the 18th century, the Ao Dai has been Vietnam’s national costume. There are three main styles of Ao Dai nowadays. “Trendy” Ao Dai reach to the floor and fit the curves of the body; the “hippy” Ao Dai is brightly coloured and popular among teenagers; and the “mini” Ao Dai
Vietnamese Quilts
in it, it will melt.
with slits extended above the waist and reaching only to the knees.
leave nothing but a fine ash. If it has polyester
Vietnamese women have, for generations, made
Local Insight: The price for regular Vietnamese
Usually there are two different colours, one for
beautiful woven silk quilts. The patterns are
silk is about VND70,000 per metre and over
the long dress and one for the trousers. It takes
wonderfully inventive and the standard of work is
VND100,000 for premium quality. The fabric
around one week to finish the product, but
excellent. A quilt makes a great gift and something
shops at Tan Dinh Market (48 Ma Lo, D1)
significantly longer during the build up to Tet.
that is both practical and inspires memories of
have plenty of local shops that sell silk fabrics
your time in Vietnam. Mekong Plus is a non-profit
and products.
Local Insight: A good quality Ao Dai will cost around VND1,500,000. A good custom Ao Dai shop is Chi Chi Tailor on 144/1 Pasteur, D1.
organisation established in 2001. Through the production of Vietnamese quilts, they provide
Ceramics
sustainable employment for under-privileged women in remote and rural regions of Vietnam and Cambodia. The project is employing hundreds of women, providing them with work close to their homes and families. The company’s aim is to double the income of some of the country’s poorest people. Their quilts are extremely beautiful and
Vietnamese pottery and ceramics is regarded as some of the finest in Asia and has a long history going back thousands of years. Superb tableware and delicate tea sets make very desirable gifts. This type of high quality craftsmanship would cost many times more in Western countries.
exquisitely fashioned. Local Insight: Minh Long I Company displays Local Insight: Mekong Plus can be found on the first floor at 68 Le Loi, D1.
Silk
some of the finest porcelain and ceramics in the country at their state of the art showrooms at 17 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3.
Vietnamese silk is regarded as some of the finest in the world. In addition to this, centuries of ao dai manufacture means that tailors are experts at cutting and tailoring this beautiful natural product. Beware of fakes; ask to do the burn test. Minh Long
Light a single thread, silk will burn naturally and
-
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FEATUREs
#iAMHCMC
by Vinh Dao
Hand Embroidery
Local Insight: The price for sand pictures
Wooden Clogs (Guoc Moc)
ranges from VND300,000 to VND700,000. A Hand-embroidered pieces of clothing and framed silk pictures are handicraft traditions here. Natural scenes like flowers, trees, animals and birds are patiently stitched one colourful thread at
respectable shop is Tranh Cat Phuong Vy on So 208 Phan Van Han, Binh Thanh District.
Musical Instruments
a time. Daily life scenes and portraits are created
These were a sort of traditional footwear for men and women alike in the past. Together with the non la, and Ao Dai, they are worn by Vietnamese women when attending important festivals or special events. They are rarely used nowadays, but
by this ancient technique as well. In some shops,
Handmade musical instruments make nice
tourists can catch a glimpse of them at traditional
you can explain or sketch your ideas and they
keepsakes for many reasons. Bamboo flutes and
activities like cai luong and ca tru performances.
will create a personalised item for you.
mini t’rungs are very popular among visitors.
Local Insight: Small hand embroidered products start at around VND500,000. XQ Hand Embroidery is the most famous embroiderer in the country, with stunning pieces available for sale. Their address is on 106 Le Loi, D1.
Since the flute is just a small bamboo pipe and the t’rung can be easily disassembled for
Local Insight: Considered old fashioned, genuine clogs are hard to find. If you see them at around VND150,000, go for it.
transport, they are convenient to carry home and don’t use up too much space in your already stuffed luggage.
As is the way here in Vietnam, expect to haggle for the items you want to take home as gifts. Happy hunting!
Local Insight: Prices for a t’rung range from VND300,000 to VND1,000,000. Simple bamboo flutes come in at around VND10,000. Nguyen Thien Thuat in District 1 is also known as “guitar street”, with many shops selling instruments, particularly guitars and ukuleles (see page 11 for more on this street).
Lacquerware Developed by the painters of the Hanoi University of Fine Arts in the 1930s, today this art is regarded as one of the most famous national painting styles. by Pixabay
The pieces are created using crushed eggshell, and adding pigment over gold and tin foil. The early
Sand painting
students added sand to lacquer and employed other techniques.
This is the art of pouring colourful sand between
Local Insight: There has been a proliferation of
two glass panes or in a specially designed vase.
lacquerware products from Vietnam since the
The layers of sand form an enthralling piece of
government, recognising it as a vital cultural
art that looks stunning and makes for an excellent
and economic art form, encouraged the business
gift. Vietnamese sand picture art mainly comprise
community to invest in it since the 1980s. Huong
four categories: landscape, portrait, labour scenes
Nga Fine Arts on 41 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 sells high
and the traditional art of calligraphy.
quality lacquerware products.
Nga’s Art & Crafts
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FEATUREs
by Tan Nguyen
How to Haggle by Zoe osborne & Keith Hancock
Bargaining with anyone can be a daunting prospect, but haggling over cheap, overpriced produce in one of Saigon’s hot and sticky marketplaces completely takes the cake. come in contact with a product that you want
c. Rẻ hơn (reh hern) - Cheaper
that does not have a fixed price, take a few
d. Có màu khác không? (cor mau khack khom?)
seconds to relax and get into the zone before
Southeast Asia is known for its individual traders and their unique, inflated prices. The art of bargaining to a fair trade, without blowing steam out of your ears and losing your ability to speak quietly, is the mark of someone either well-
- Do you have a different colour?
making your first move. You have to play your
e. Không (khom) - No
opponent; tease them, joke with them, distract
f. Dạ (ya) - Yes
them, and at the last minute swoop in with a
g. Được (dooc) - Ok
cutthroat offer and a final, determined flick of the nose, and you’ll have them. Easy. Then take your purchase, keep your change, and walk out
3. Don’t Assume You Are Being Scammed
for that nice cold beer.
travelled or with the patience of a saint. As common as rip-offs are in Saigon, particularly Bargaining can be rough, but to the professional negotiator it’s the biggest rush of all. There is a
2. Speak the Lingo
everyone wants to scam you. You can never
certain pleasure in walking out of Ben Thanh Market with your “I ♥ Saigon” top bought for a nice, tidy VND40,000, and knowing that you are a master of your trade. Effective bargaining in Saigon is an enviable skill.
This helps a lot - I’m not talking about fluency here and there is no pressure to pronounce your words like a local, but a few phrases of relevant Vietnamese will help you a ton when bargaining in one of Saigon’s bustling marketplaces. As you
But how exactly does one learn this skill? Well here are some tips to get you started…
1. Relax and Play the Game
in the local markets, the reality is that not
approach a stall and start considering its contents, you wait… wait… and just as the stallholder is about to address you, you whip around and fire a nice, tidy “bao nhiêu?” and watch as they register your masterful Vietnamese. Knowing a few words
know if you’re being ripped off unless you already know what the price should be. It can be easy to assume you are being treated unfairly when in reality the stall vendor you are negotiating with is giving you the same price that she charges everyone every single day! The trick is to look around before you buy, to ask other people how much they spent on the same product, or to first find out the local price.
4. Come Prepared
This is not a battle, it’s an art. An experienced
in the local language will seriously help with your
hustler can spot stress from a mile away, so
haggling ability, and here are a few must-knows
walking into a local market with guns blazing
to get you started:
There are a few unofficial rules to shopping
and eyebrows clenched is not the best way to
a. Bao nhiêu? (baow new) - How much?
in this crazy metropolis - some more sociable
start a positive and fair negotiation. When you
b. Mắc quá! (mack wa!) - So expensive!!
than others - and knowing how they work will
by Tan Nguyen
9 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
FEATUREs
by Lisa Murray
#iAMHCMC
sneaky Vietnamese and even walked away like you don’t care anyway and there is STILL no change in price, chances are you’re just going to have to fork out. Don’t be angry, it’s a game remember? Not a fight!
8. Don’t Apologise Don’t say sorry, don’t explain and don’t elaborate unnecessarily. This stallholder doesn’t need (or want) to know why you can’t pay a price or why you need five of that shirt; all they need to know is that you want this number of this thing at this price and you are not negotiating! Be firm in your demands, though not rude.
9. Look at the Bright Side give you an edge in your bargaining. First, don’t
However, for the most part, pretending to walk
Even if you don’t end up getting the price
bother with queues. If you wait your turn here
off like you don’t really want it anyway will
you want, a nice healthy session of vigorous
you will never get a turn, because the general
make your stallholder reconsider their price.
bargaining is still totally worth it. Why? Well,
rule is that if you want to be served you have to
If it isn’t working, you either have to pay what
for all those budding linguists out there it is a
push in and bother the stall-holder louder than
they want or hope the same product is being sold
chance to practise your Vietnamese skills! Not
everyone else. If you don’t they simply won’t
elsewhere! Which it probably is.
a linguist? Well think about it this way, whether
notice you, or will pretend not to, and you will find yourself waiting politely while the whole world goes before you.
you paid too much or not, you just supported the
6. Browse Before You Bargain
Another rule is to pay attention to how you
Saigon economy… No? Ok, well either way you got what you paid for!
10. Practise
exchange money and receive your purchase. In
Saigon’s markets are super chaotic, super useful,
Vietnam there are a few polite traditions that
full of the most bizarre things and potentially
will make purchases that much more amicable.
super cheap. But their most defining quality
The key to becoming a haggling pro is practise.
The first is how to give or take an item; using
is that many of the stalls sell exactly the same
Treat each bargaining session as a chance to
both hands indicates respect for the person you
products as the one next to them. Weird huh? But
hone your craft. Learn from what happens, and
are talking with. The second is how you speak.
very useful. When you are browsing a market in
adjust until one day you are so wonderfully
The words “dạ” and “ừ” both mean yes, but the
Saigon, looking to buy something and preparing
manipulative that all you have to do is look at
first indicates respect and the second should only
to bargain like a pro, ask a few different
a bag from the corner of your eye for the stall
be used with people your age or younger.
stallholders for their prices before choosing the
vendor to give it to you at half price. Visit the
lowest one. Chances are if that striped bag you
various markets around Saigon. Ben Thanh is the
have your eye on is VND50,000 from the lady by
most famous, a tourist hot spot and perhaps the
the door, it will be VND40,000 at the next stall.
most cutthroat of all markets in HCMC when
Browse before you bargain.
it comes to negotiation; Saigon Square is less
5. Don’t Look Like You Want It If you can manage to look nonchalant and indifferent, maybe even walk away, your
terrifying and home to a lot of really cute pieces
7. Know When to Quit
of fashion; then there’s Cho Lon, a more local, authentic marketplace.
vendor is more likely to drop their price. This isn’t always the case and I’ve been in many
Sometimes you’ve just got to accept that the
situations where walking away has lost me both
price, though not exactly “right”, is not going to
the product I wanted to buy and my dignity.
budge. If you’ve haggled, joked, thrown in some
Read the full article at : iamhcmc.com/vnedu
Enjoy one of the best coffees in Viet Nam Experience Ca Phe Sua Da the Vietnamese traditional coffee 1st floor, 68 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1, HCMC facebook.com/dragocoffee Open: 8am - 6pm
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FEATUREs
Saigon’s Wonderful Specialty Markets by Jake Hornberger
Ho Chi Minh City is a place with something distinct and spellbinding at every turn. Throughout the city’s countless woven alleyways, backstreet markets, and strewn out sidewalk vendors, we are left awestruck amidst the immense density of the market shopping scene. In order to circumvent this boggling market interface, follow our guide to unlock some of Saigon’s most interesting specialty markets for both locals and travellers alike.
Lantern Street (Luong Nhu Hoc, D5) are cheap and factory produced, bearing famous
As you cautiously manoeuvre around bygone
Chinatown’s lantern street is a visual spectacle for
characters like Doraemon and Pikachu. It’s hard
objects, be sure to meticulously inspect each
any visitor, as bright colours rupture from every
not to feel a connection to some of Vietnam and
potential purchase as many items here are
stall, wall and ceiling, giving pedestrians a true
China’s mutual cultural history while you take in
counterfeit. Regardless of your knowledge of real
glimpse of Chinese heritage. With photographers
the timeless shapes and patterns of this fun and
or fake antiques, taking a slow stroll down this
abound, beautiful women in Ao Dai’s pose
ceremonious block of lanterns.
street is quite an enchanting experience as you
amongst the vast display of kaleidoscopic lanterns and hanging mobiles creating an immersive cultural presentation. Saigon’s most poignant
take in the rich and dateless objects. From 60+
Antique Street (Le Cong Kieu, D1)
lanterns are exhibited during the Mid-Autumn Festival that occurs within 15 days of the autumn equinox, during the month of September. While perusing lantern street, which wraps around the perimeter of a traditional Chinese temple, skilled craftsman can be spotted hunkered down behind the stalls hand making each item before putting
year-old phones, typewriters and phonographs, massive Mandarin scrolls, boisterous elephant statues and bull-horned objects, this is an ideal
Just a quick hobble from Ben Thanh Market, you can stumble upon another one of Saigon’s lesser known speciality strips. This one is laden with Pan-Asian antique treasures. Containing
place to get lost in Asian history.
Musical Instrument Street (NguyenThien Thuat, D3)
about 10-20 shops, an astonishing amount of antique items are on display stacked deep into
Not only is this road well known by both expats
the back corners of the old concrete stores.
and local musicians for its broad selection of
As you make your way through this market space,
Dusty floor-to-ceiling glass encasements house
musical instruments, but it’s also a buzzing
you will notice a wide range of styles and designs.
endless heaps of ceramics and statuettes, heavy
market area with mounds of delicious street
Some pricier lanterns contain wooden frames
copper and brass Buddhist relics, clocks, gas
food. While walking down this street, it’s quickly
with golden Chinese inscriptions, while others
lamps and religious medallions.
evident that many of the shop owners here are
them on display.
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an extensive collection of war surplus gear, while providing a mostly hassle-free, shopping experience without the maddening crowds or overzealous vendors of many of HCMC’s more well-known markets.
An Dong Plaza (An Duong Vuong, D5) An Dong market in District 5 is home to Saigon’s elbow-to-elbow Chinatown market. In contrast to the aggressive selling methods of Ben Thanh Market, the retailers here are more interested in wholesale prices and prefer to sell in bulk. As a whole, you will find much more local-friendly not only selling instruments, but are actually
no stranger to the hustle, so be sure to purchase
handcrafting each instrument themselves right
with caution and thoroughly check the products
on the spot. With sawdust strewn floors, and bits
before you buy them. For small repairs it’s a very
of metal guitar string and tuning keys about, I
accessible place to get your tire or tube changed,
was very impressed with the craftsmanship of
tighten your brakes, grease the chain or even have
many of the shop’s products.
an old bike rebuilt.
prices instead of the jacked up price tags of the more tourist-dominated markets. If you’re interested in jewellery, particularly fine pearls, gold and silver, than this is a much better shopping option. Quality cannot always be guaranteed, so shop with caution and be careful when selecting your pieces.
From
traditional
Vietnamese
flutes
and
bamboo instruments, to mandolins, ukuleles, violins, harmonicas, stomp boxes, electric and bass guitars, the experience of watching your
Yersin Market (Nguyen Thai Binh and Yersin, D1)
instrument being made right in front of you is a charming one. One particular young artisan
Yersin Market is a dusty scrapyard style market
however, named Hien, at 127 Nguyen Thien
hunkering behind a street full of small scale
Thuat, really got my attention. As he sat down
industrial hardware outlets. After dodging
working, surrounded by thousands of tiny
scampering, shouting workers loading and
metal pieces and shreds of stripped wood, he
unloading oversized packages into beat up
nonchalantly discussed his traditional acoustic
box trucks, you can wind your way into the
guitar-making style, and how his products are
dingy likes of Yersin Market; a musty tin roof
“simple, good and homemade the traditional
market housing an overwhelming number
way”. Regardless if you’re seeking Eastern or
of items. If you’re looking to renovate your
While making your way through this lively
Western instruments, or just accessories like
apartment, repair an appliance, or acquire
and swarming area, don’t forget to take in the
monochromatic tuners, strings, cables, capos
some power tools for a project, Yersin Market
authenticity of this market as if offers visitors a
or pickups, have a peak as you make your way
sells everything from electronics to hardware,
true taste of Vietnamese style market shopping,
around the endless piles of guitars flowing out
camping gear, kitchenware and a vast array of
unlike the jaded nature of Ben Thanh market.
the sides of the shops.
mechanical accessories needed to fix or build anything imaginable. This complex also offers
Photos by Dinh Thinh & Linh Phanroy
Bike Street (Bui Huu Nghia, Binh Thanh D) Bike street is a frantic black market hotspot overflowing with any bicycle or motorbike accessory imaginable. Bits and pieces of all shapes and sizes dangle above the low ceilings as you cower through the overloaded strip wafting of petrol, oil and rubber. Even If you’re not there to purchase anything bike related, it’s worth a trip just to observe as the workers scurry around clanking tools, ripping off tires, and hand cranking bikes up and down to perform their hasty mechanical maintenance. With glistening displays of chrome spokes, handlebars, bike frames and chains, this road is
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FEATUREs
Finding Furniture in HCMC by Jake Hornberger & Aleksandr Smechov
Some time ago, you couldn’t find quality furniture in Ho Chi Minh City - there were fewer malls, fewer local furniture makers, and anything of quality was made for export only.
Finding Modern Furniture in HCMC Quality furnitwure depends on the wood, as well as how it’s been dried. In the past, this was a big issue and wood was not dried well. This caused furniture to break apart over time. Nowadays, there has been much progress in this regard. There’s great furniture being made here, and although not prevalent, there are definitely stores to check out.
Reasonably Priced Furniture: For more reasonable prices, Nha Xinh (25 Tran Cao Van, D1; 111 Ton Dat Tien, D7) and Hoa Phat (121 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh District; 391 Dien Bien Phu, D1) are good options for those on a smaller budget. For IKEA-style furniture in Ho Chi Minh City, visit Uma (428 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1) and Index Living (Vincom Mega Mall, No. 159 Ha Noi Highway, Thao DIen, D2) at one of their many locations. Here, the pieces are cheap and cheerful, but made from lower quality materials.
by JARA D&B
Local Mid-High End: Saigon River Factory (Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
These days, finding furniture is getting easier. For
this is really manageable way to make your home
example, you can find valuable items still left over
look good on a tighter budget.
that make furniture out of alabaster and concrete. District Eight Design (E4/52 National Highway
from when the French were here. There’s about five to six great “junk shops” around HCMC that
D2) is one of Saigon’s well established companies
The Overlooked Wood Street
sell quality colonial French furniture.
1A, Binh Tan District) is also a delightful find. They craft all their furniture from reclaimed wood and produce tables and desks, seating, and games
Treasure at the Junk Shop
There’s also wood street (on Ba Hat, stretching from D5 to D10), where you can give the carpenters a design and they will replicate it
Junk shop brokers scout the country, pursue
out of Vietnamese redwood. Most people walk
old properties and buy all the old furniture -
ing down wood street might think it’s nothing
wardrobes, chairs, and an assortment of other
notable - like scissor street, boot street or safe
furnishings - then repurpose it and paint it.
street. But when you actually go in and visit
Basically, taking old bits of furniture and turning
these shops you can see everything, including
them into creative new domestic products. At
laser cut wood with intricate latticework,
these places, you can get items like aged French
big chunks of wood being repurposed into
pharmaceutical chests and redecorate them -
everything imaginable, old furniture being
these compartments are ideal for storing small
restored, and so on.
things like jewellery, kitchen cutlery, or other
like foosball tables, pool tables, shuffleboard sets and other items. Gomo Shop (7/30B, Road 13, Binh Hoa Commune, Binh Duong) is one of the leading mid-high end retailers specialising in modern and trendy European style furniture. There’s also Linh Furniture (67 Xuan Thuy) and Decosy (112 Xuan Thuy), as well as Austin Home Interiors (42 Nguyen Dang Giai) - all in Thao Dien, D2.
Imported High End: Although it’s getting easier to acquire imported
You can take a nice piece of old wood and have
furniture because of new malls, you will bear the
them cut it to size, restore it and then make it into
burden of the heavy import tax, as a sophisticated
a proper table. You’ll find everything from giant
sofa can hit you for around VND200-300 million.
slabs of wood to thin sheets here - and you can
The Times Square Building (22-36 Nguyen Hue)
You can also easily attain old shipping pallets
utilise them as you see fit. Most of it is Vietnamese
has several furniture stores on the ground floor
and, with a bit of creativity, turn them into
redwood, which is extremely hard and sturdy. As
that have some of Italy’s most well-known
attractive pieces of furniture. If you don’t want
you can see, all this requires a bit of work and
and respected brands - and probably the most
to spend lots of money to decorate your home,
imagination as well.
expensive in Ho Chi Minh City.
personal items. You have the chance to piece together an assortment of selected items to create your own unique style of interior wooden decor.
13 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
GOMO: Vietnam’s First World Class Furniture Shop Gomo Shop is single-handedly proving that Vietnam is fully capable of producing furniture that meets Western standards, and is affordable for a wide range of local customers.
techniques, Gomo Shop is able to offer a wide
Gomo, a family-run mid-high range furniture
home furnishings. Through this unique operation
shop, is producing modern and trendy furnishings
process, and by using local textiles, they are able
and accessories of international quality. Natural
to assemble quality pieces with a much wider
white oak is imported from America and Russia,
price range than expected. Gomo has proven to
and paired with locally sourced materials to
itself and its customers, that Vietnam actually does
handcraft some of HCMC’s best quality home
have the ability to produce high end products on
decor. Including sofas, bedroom, dining and living
par with any Western product.
range of solid oak, walnut and acacia items while maintaining a sharp focus on ecological sustainability. By meticulously guiding the factories in production methods, and training workers on how to follow standard procedures, buyers are guaranteed safe and highly durable
room sets, and an impressive selection of gorgeous hardwood items, their four level 1,500m2 shop is the first of its kind.
“Tailor” your Own Room
www.gomo.com.vn | Hotline +84 65 0376 5115 7/30B National Road, Binh Hoa, Binh Duong
How to Enjoy Your Home More Decorating your own home is something that is vastly overlooked in Vietnam, and this kind of
Locally Producing European Certified Furniture
Unlike other furniture companies in the city, Gomo offers knowledgeable guidance to those who would like to personally select and piece together the interior decor of their home. If you
With a primary focus on contemporary European
don’t have an architect to help you browse, Gomo
styles, Gomo carefully works with their 31+
can suggest design ideas, and also provide unique
suppliers and international designers to yield
full room packages. You may also opt to bring in
furniture that is made in Vietnam, but is of world
the blueprint of your house, and let the in-house
class quality. While most other local suppliers of
staff help you utilise the space in the most efficient
international grade furniture export the bulk of
and creative way possible.
their inventory, Gomo prefers to keep their items in Vietnam in order to provide home decoration options available to the HCMC community, giving everyone a chance to enjoy the refined tastes of European style furniture.
approach to living can be a very new concept to many. The Gomo team is dedicated to shedding light on this Western way of shopping, as it can end with a very rewarding result. Jordan Dariosecq, the shop manager, carefully guides his customers through his colossal collection of unparalleled solid white oak masterpieces as he helps his customers realise the full potential of the Vietnamese furniture industry. He and his team understand that personally decorating and hand
In regards to sofas, you may also customise your
selecting furnishings that you like can bring home
piece by choosing the colour or fabric in order
owners a sense of personal satisfaction they have
to match previously bought furnishings around
never experienced before. By following the hottest
your home. For sizable commercial orders for
trends, consumers can always get the sense that
restaurants, hotels, real estate developers or other
they are one step ahead of the game.
By employing only the best craftsmen and keeping
kinds of establishments, full customisation can
a close eye on the handmade manufacturing
be applied as well.
What’s Hot? Solid white oak furniture and high quality sofas are the hottest items here. Gomo’s pool of international designers are always ahead of the most modern European trends, and they successfully bring these design patterns to Vietnam for local production. Just by simply strolling through the shop you can smell the fresh oak and give the elegant feather filled sofas as test. You will quickly see that the quality inarguably speaks for itself. There are no other established Western certified furniture businesses who can cater to the needs of both the Vietnamese and the expat communities in this way. Gomo has been at it since before the high end furniture market existed, and will continue to pave the way for future interior design styles.
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FEATUREs
Vietnam’s Rising Ecommerce Industry by Jake Hornberger
Vietnam’s ecommerce industry is increasing at the second highest rate in the Asia-Pacific region, and growth is clearly expected to continue throughout the next five years, raking in an estimated $10 billion by the year 2020. What does this mean for the retail market, and how will it affect local and international shops in the future, if at all? According to the Vietnam E-commerce Association, the online shopping industry is expected to rise around 30 percent or
leflair.vn founders Loic Gautier and Pierre Antoine Brun
more each year throughout the next decade. As of now, a huge portion of the revenue made from
their mobile devices like iPhones and tablets,
ecommerce. They have initiated numerous
online shopping has been highly concentrated in
and, as expected, the peak time of day for
training programmes, as well as launched several
Hanoi and HCMC. However, once ecommerce
purchases made in Vietnam is in the morning
of their own enterprises geared at vamping up
hits the outer provinces and countryside areas,
(before work) and the evening (after work).
the market. However, as entrepreneurs become
this could mean unprecedented growth in the online shopping sector.
more educated, and more expats integrate into
Branding/Foreign Investment
in competition as well. Those who survive will be
One of Vietnam’s most prominent online retailers for clothing and accessories is Leflair.vn. I sat
There are a limited number of international brands
down with their CEO, Loic Gautier, to get some
available for sale in Vietnam due to the fact that
insight on the current state of the ecommerce
foreign investment is a tricky subject. Obstacles
market, the struggles of start-up, branding and
like high taxes and inadequate information result
the direction ecommerce is headed.
in less foreign interest in the market. As a new online shopping company, big name brands can
Who is Shopping Online the Most and What are They Buying?
online purchases and Leflair.com states that about 80 percent of their purchases are made
the ones that keep one step ahead of the game. Social media is clearly another key component to success and it will, in my opinion, make or break future ecommerce sites.
What’s Next?
be hesitant to trust your website due to a lack of established online shopping sources in the past. Since ecommerce just kicked off five years ago, there is still a lot of work to be done in order to
Overall, females aged 35-44 make the most
Vietnamese markets, we can expect an increase
establish a trusted industry model.
Competitive Market
by women as well. MasterCard surveys have
There is no debate that this is a booming industry. However, it is difficult to predict the direct effect it will have upon the retail market scene. Will they evolve together, or will online shopping steal the crown? Perhaps ecommerce will be a way for local independent designers to platform their designs and avoid the ridiculous
stated that the top three shopping categories
Despite the fact that there are many regulations
rental prices in prime shopping areas. Whatever
for Vietnam are airline tickets, home appliances
currently in place, the Ministry of Industry and
the outcome, it certainly rings true that
and electronic products. It is estimated that more
Trade has realised the economic potential and
everything digital is advancing, and taking place
than 50 percent of consumers are shopping from
has decided to spend more time promoting
of more antiquated industrial avenues.
15 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
FEATUREs
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Shipping Things to Vietnam: A Warning by Keith Hancock
Importing personal goods into any country is, of course, subject to certain restrictions and prohibitions.
the UK £170 to ship it out. I was told that the
In this respect Vietnam is no different. In order
and was told that the import duty was well
to check the prohibited and restricted items,
over $5,000 dollars. The whole lot was worth
the British Royal Mail website (royalmail.
nowhere near that. Despite things of sentimental
com/viet-nam), has some useful information.
value, I decided against it and lost the lot forever.
In addition to this, it is worth remembering that
No doubt the customs guys had a great time
the country of origin will also have regulations
sharing it all out.
as to what can and what cannot be exported.
fee charged in the UK covered all import duties in the destination country. It arrived about three months later and I was told to go to the docks to collect it. I duly arrived at the customs office
The problems don’t end here either. Many
It is almost always safer to use one of the
people, upon hearing of the shortcomings of
recognised courier companies like FedEx, DHL
the Vietnamese postal service, decide to simply
or UPS, rather than unknown companies or
put valuable items on a plane when they are
the postal service. Things have a habit of getting
travelling out to Vietnam. However, putting
“lost” as soon as they hit the country. Using
anything valuable in the hold of an aircraft is
a courier will cost you more, but at least it
never a good idea, and not just in Vietnam. By
will arrive.
2014, airlines were losing almost 22 million
“Professional courrier services can be expenses but prove to be the most secure method.” It is also worth remembering that your parcel will more than likely be opened by customs as soon as it hits Vietnam. So accurate labelling as to the contents is important. You don’t want to fall foul of customs services here. They deliver a white slip of paper informing you that a parcel has arrived and that it must be collected from an exact location within a certain time frame. If you happen to be travelling when this happens and miss the deadline, your parcel will be sent back to whence it came and the sender will be liable for charges. Also the internet is full of horror stories when it comes to the postal service. People can sometimes get bounced around from one post office to the next before finally finding their item, only to be informed that ridiculously high import duties are liable, before the parcel will be released.
items of luggage per year, and that was down by more than half on the staggering figure of 47 million in 2007 (The Wall Street Journal). Whilst only one in every 2,000 mishandled bags is lost forever (The Independent) that still represents more 10,000 items per year that are never reunited with their owners. In 2008, Essex CID conducted Operation Bruno, which led to the arrest of 22 baggage handlers at London’s Stansted Airport, who were caught stealing from luggage.
“Airlines are losing almost 22 million items of luggage per year.” I hate to sound so negative about all this but the only safe ways to get your valuable items arriving safely at their destination is to use one of the well known reputable companies, as named above, or to hand carry it on the plane yourself and never let it out of your sight. Letting it out of your sight opens up a whole new level of airline theft.
3 locations in Thao Dien, D2, HCMC 0903 957 316 - smartkids@smartkidsinfo.com www.smartkidsinfo.com / www.smartkids.edu.vn
Passengers have been reporting items stolen from hand luggage in increasing numbers. In 2012
“Miss your collection time and your parcel will be sent back to its place of origin.”
Vietnam airlines reported 28 cases of valuables
The problem is not restricted to Vietnam - this
The bottom line is, unless it is imperative, don’t
seems to be relevant for all of Southeast Asia.
bother. The costs are high and the risks are higher.
When I emigrated to Thailand in 2008, I put all
Using reputable courier services is definitely the
the things that mattered to me in a rather nice
way to go or if you can, carry it on board your
chest of drawers and paid a courier company in
flight and sit on it!
stolen from hand luggage. In 2013 nine thieves were caught in the act (Vietnam.net).
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events
Events
Our selections of events in HCMC this month OKTOBERFEST VIETNAM WINDSOR PLAZA HOTEL 18 AN DUONG VUONG, D5 OCTOBER 6 TO 15 | 6:00 P.M. TO 11:59 P.M.
October at the Windsor hotel can only mean one thing: it’s Oktoberfest again! This popular festival is a celebration of German culture, beer, food and music. New this year is the arrival of Partenkirchner Musikanten, a traditional Oktoberfest band from Germany which has played concerts worldwide. Guests will be presented with a collectible Oktoberfest Vietnam beer stein and will have a chance to win exciting prizes including the biggest grand prize yet, a Mercedes C200 valued at VND1.4 billion and a Vespa LX125 motorbike. Prices: VND1 million and VND1.3 million Fridays and Saturday. Ticket Information: oktoberfestvietnam.com/en
HATCH! FAIR 2016
AUTUMN ART MARKET
GRAND PALACE WEDDING & CONVENTION CENTRE 142/18 CONG HOA, TAN BINH D OCTOber 7 to 8 | FROM 8 A.M.
INDIKA SAIGON 43 NGUYEN VAN GIAI, D1 OCTOBER 8 | 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M
The fourth annual combined conference and exhibition event for startups, investors, learners, the public, and local and international mass media, takes place at the Grand Palace Wedding and Convention centre in Tan Binh District. Organisers predict that this event will be the biggest yet and will attract thousands of visitors. HATCH! FAIR is Vietnam’s leading and largest annual startup conference and exhibition. It has been preceded with many build up activities that have taken place in Hanoi, Danang and Ho Chi Minh City.
Vin Gallery’s free Autumn Art Market returns and is hosted this year by Indika Saigon in the Da Kao area of District 1. Join them to see their range of vendors selling their art, design and fashion at this unique venue. It is a day of creativity, excellent food and cold drinks. You’ll find original artworks, bespoke designer homeware, handmade crafts and unique clothing. Indika’s funky venue will be full to the brim with delightful products. Keep an eye out for VinSpace who will be running free craft activities throughout the day to get everyone’s creativity flowing. Phone: +84 12 2399 4260
Student Pass: VND375,000 | General Pass: VND750,000 | Investors Pass: VND2,250,000 Phone: +84 4 6275 7406 | Email: fair@hatch.vn
CMI HEART INSTITUTE GALA THE REVERIE SAIGON 22-36 NGUYEN HUE, D1 OCTOber 15 | FROM 6.30 P.M.
7TH ANNUAL ASIAN AUSTRALIAN FOOTBALL CHAMPIONSHIPS RMIT VIETNAM SAIGON SOUTH CAMPUS 702 NGUYEN VAN LINH, D7 | OCTOber 14-15
The AFL Asian Championships is the largest event of the year for footy teams across Asia. The
Enjoy a welcome cocktail, a wonderful five-
Vietnam Swans and Vietnam ACS teams will have
course French dinner with a Vietnamese twist
the privilege of hosting the event in the city. 2016
from celebrity chef Sakal, live and silent auctions,
will see a record 18 teams competing, including
and live performances and entertainment. The
the Japan Goannas making a return following
CMI charity gala benefits Alain Carpentier’s
a few years hiatus. In addition the Indonesia
heart-surgery initiatives in Vietnam, raising
Garudas will be appearing. They are completely
money to fund life saving cardiac surgeries for
comprised of local players from Bali, Jakarta and
deprived children.
Borneo and this is the first time an all-local team
Price: VND3,900,000.
will compete. Free entry. For more information,
Contact: s.veyron@cmi-vietnam.com
visit: afl-asia.com/asian-championships
Eternity – a Collection of New Works by Marjon Barton Vin gallery 6 le van mien, D2 | OCTOber 8 to 29
Visit Vin Gallery in October to see Dutch artist Marjon Barton’s “Infinity” drawings. Made with ink on paper, these artworks are formed from connecting representations of the infinity symbol. The series began during a difficult time for Barton, shaping into the collection it is now. The artworks contain a red embroidered thread or other red symbols; in Asia, it is believed that one person is connected to another by a red thread, which destines them to be lovers. For more info, contact: info@vingallery.com
17 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
MEET THE EXPERT
#iAMHCMC
Kenn Smith, Couturier, On Bespoke in HCMC by Keith Hancock
made-to-measure items. Made-to-measure takes
black tie attire. We now see people ordering
in a list of measurements and then works with
them in the city.
recognised templates. Bespoke not only relies on strict measurements, but also the shape of your body, the angle of your shoulders and
Kenn Smith is a well-known figure around town with his sartorial elegance and engaging personality.
Do you think that a person’s accessories carry as much weight as the actual clothes?
many more variables; each customer provides
Not at all. If accessories are gaudy I think they
a unique template. Kenn Smith Couturier claims
take people’s opinion in the wrong direction.
to be the only truly bespoke fitters in Southeast
Subtle accessories are almost unnoticeable and
Asia. Tailors came from London’s Savile Row to
in my opinion always preferable.
Shanghai to teach locals, and Kenn decided to I caught up with him recently at his soon to be opened Gentleman’s Club, Leo, in District 7 to discuss the finer points of gentleman’s tailoring
go the same route in Vietnam.
compared to other Southeast Asian countries. What are the main benefits of wearing one of your bespoke suits?
in Ho Chi Minh City. Kenn is a native of Indianapolis, though years of travel have seen his accent morph into more of a Southern Drawl to my English ears.
What makes Vietnamese tailoring stand out when
The Vietnamese are more entrepreneurial and seem to work harder. This manifests itself in them
The main benefit is certainly the comfort, bespoke
being better tailors than most, not just in tailoring
suits are canvas lined and it breathes. The outer
in fact, they are starting to lead the way in many
shell is the cloth, there is silk on the inside and in
occupations.
between is the canvas. Even in this hot climate, it’s A former corporate trainer in Vietnam, he was a team leader for the company involved with bringing McDonald’s to Vietnam. He is a self-
nice to be able to wear a suit and feel comfortable. Made to measure suits use an iron-in artificial fabric liner than does not breathe.
taught tailor who learned a lot from a former What do you feel is the psychology, especially
while. Finding the right people was one of the
in the business sector, to first impressions of a
hardest challenges he faced when starting up his
person’s dress or sense of style?
were employed making suits for high-ranking military personnel. When the war ended most were in a position to be able to leave the country
you think this is common here or do people tend to go for more mainstream styles? I think the entrepreneurs want their own style
Versace employee who worked with him for a
business here. During the war all the good tailors
You certainly have developed your own style, do
and I tend to spend a lot of time discussing their design ideas. Regular business customers tend to want more of an accepted design.
Prior to starting up, I did four years of research, hiring four young women to do market research, trained to get to see decision makers.
How easy is it to get good fabrics? Are they made here in Vietnam or imported?
500 surveys over four years were aimed at
Most of what we use comes from Taiwan. The
first impressions. They had photos of men
premium fashion brands from Italy and France
and women in different styles and asked the
are using the same fabrics we source from
Kenn was lucky enough to meet one old chap
interviewees to choose the ones that gave the
Taiwan for their off-the-peg wear that they are
who stayed and in addition to accepting a job
best impressions. 95 percent of every category
producing in China and Southeast Asia. Fabrics
working for Kenn, he trained up other tailors
of interviewee went for the more formal style.
are made in Taiwan by Italian companies. We
to a very high standard. Even today there are
Speaking at many events I know that young
use light wools blended with silk and polyester
only a handful of men capable of making truly
entrepreneurs feel that wearing my suits does
which are particularly great for this climate. We
bespoke suits in the country. A bespoke tailored
help them to gain credibility and grow their
also buy from Holland and Sherry from London,
suit involves upwards of a hundred hours of
business. When I speak at functions I wear a
one of the original Savile Row tailors who moved
labour and should be viewed differently than
smoking jacket, which is considered alternative
into fabrics.
and that is what they did, leaving behind a huge dearth of talent.
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