By Locals, for Locals
December 2016
Year end edition
/ “May peace be your gift at Christmas and your blessing throughout the year!” /
Best Places to See the Fireworks
Why Christmas Sucks
2016 News recap
8
News
•
Features
•
Meet the Expert
9
•
Reviews
•
Food & Drink
•
Horojoke
2-5
•
Holiday Quiz
•
Events
#iAMHCMC
NEWS
Looking Back at 2016 It’s been a hell of a year. Torrential floods, mass fish death, new and old presidents… Vietnam has seen its fair share of course-changing events in 2016. Perhaps more than any other year since the 1970s. The HCMC metro is
2016 News Recap January: Toxic Cheap Coffee
well underway, the skyline is slowly rising, and the standards of just about everything,
The new year saw a story break that sent
from restaurants to architecture, seem to be a
shudders down the spine of many coffee drinkers.
notch higher. Despite this year’s’ tragedies, the
Once again the safety of food and drink in
country is propelling itself faster than ever to
Vietnam was brought into question after local
a brighter future, keeping much of its charm
media discovered a new toxic, concentrated
along the way.
liquid on the market that could turn water into a
#iAMHCMC has always tried to give a candid perspective of the city, the country, and its people. It goes without saying that we love Vietnam, and if we didn’t, we wouldn’t put as
mixture that looked and tasted like coffee. It was claimed that the substance was manufactured in China and a single litre was enough to make 400
Vingroup were in the news for the wrong
cups of coffee.
reasons in spring, when British zoo consultant
much effort as we have into the gazette. And
At a cost of less than VND1,000 per cup, it
trust us, we received some tough scrutiny over
represented enormous profits for vendors,
the past 12+ months for our publication.
presenting a huge incentive for them to turn a
In all honesty, when we began brainstorming the #iAMHCMC brand in 2015, we expected it to run a few print editions before we went all digital. But there was a certain
March: Safari Scandal
blind eye to the health implications. While the exact impact on health was not confirmed, experts believed the liquid likely contained heavy metals such as lead and mercury.
Peter Dickinson accused the real estate giant of failing to take proper care of animals at its newly-opened safari park on Phu Quoc Island. They stood accused of causing the deaths of 1,700 animals, including birds and giraffes. Vingroup were quick to refute the accusation, saying around 100 animals died due to an exhausting journey and their failure to adapt to the new environment in southern Vietnam. The company’s claims were
quality to the paper version that has left an
backed by inspectors from Kien Giang Province.
impression on our audience. People loved it,
Peter Dickinson claimed his sources were told
and the positive feedback pushed us to do
that the deaths were from diseases, parasites,
more, add more, and raise the bar for our
underfeeding and accidents.
quality, credible content. We don’t believe we have any competitors, because we’re doing
There were also claims that around 500 monkeys
something that’ never been done in Ho Chi
and many birds had escaped from the safari park.
Minh City before. Some find that dangerous. But many more adore it. It is thanks to you, that we have put in 5,000 hours of blood, sweat and tears into crafting
February: King Kong in Vietnam
this paper. If there were no readers, there wouldn’t be #iAMHCMC. We tip our hats
It is not every day that Hollywood comes to town,
to you, and wish you happy holidays. You’ll
but this happened in February when the all star
particularly enjoy this edition. We feature
cast of “Kong: Skull Island” arrived in the country.
2016’s best articles from Citypassguide.com
The Hollywood crew arrived in Vietnam to film
and #iAMHCMC, look back at the most
the highly-anticipated blockbuster, amid busy
important news events of 2016, tell you why
scenes at Hanoi’s Noi Bai Airport.
Christmas sucks, and give you a medley of awesome reviews. Cheers!
The team of more than 100 members arrived on one aircraft, with 20 tons of equipment following in a separate plane. “They shot in various locations in Vietnam for five weeks, beginning on 22 February. Director Jordan Vogt-Roberts and the
Have feedback? Contact me at patrick@innovo.vn No part of this publication may be re-produced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.
2 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
cast including Tom Hiddleston, Samuel L. Jackson
Vietnam Star Accused of Sexual Assault on a Minor Also in the news this month, well-known Vietnamese entertainer, Hong Quang Minh, who goes by the stage name “Minh Beo”, 38, was charged on the 25th with three felony counts of sexually assaulting a minor.
and Brie Larson, enjoyed their stay in the country.
After several changes to the court date, he finally
Locations included some of the country’s famous
pled guilty in August and is likely to receive an
sites such as Ha Long Bay and Phong Nha Cave.
18-month sentence before the end of the year.
April: New Prime Minister
NEWS
the Cambodian border can now facilitate a 12 month visa for a total cost of around $200. This
#iAMHCMC
May: Obama Visits Vietnam
is good news for American expats but really no April saw the election of Deputy Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc as the country’s new Prime Minister. Mr Phuc, 62, replaced Nguyen Tan
improvement for holiday makers.
King’s Day Madness
Dung, who officially stepped down in April after serving two terms. The legislature also swore in Minister of Public Security Tran Dai Quang, 60, as the new President. Nguyen Thi Kim Ngan, 62, became the country’s first Parliament Chairwoman. The newly-elected leaders pledged to improve Vietnam’s business climate and step up anti-corruption efforts.
New One-Year Visas for Americans Announced
Obama arrived in Vietnam to chaotic scenes and huge crowds. More than 1,000 people accompanied United States President Barack Obama during his visit to Vietnam from 23 to
Chaos erupted as millions attended the Hung Kings festival in northern Vietnam. The Hung Kings’ Death Anniversary, which falls on the tenth day of the third lunar month, is marked each year at the Hung Temples Relic Site in Viet Tri City, Phu Tho. Rituals and other traditional activities honour the first rulers of ancient Vietnam.
25 May. The delegation included officials and employees of the U.S. government, the president’s personal entourage, business representatives, security guards, and secret service agents. Six hotels accommodated the large group of American visitors. They also brought the helicopter Marine One, the presidential state car, automobiles for other key officials of the delegation, special
This year, as the country enjoyed a three-day
vehicles, ambulances, weapons for security and
holiday, millions flocked to the site to take part in
protection, and walkie talkie devices. According
the main event of the festival; the result was utter
to Vietnam’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the U.S.
chaos. Children screamed and cried as they were
president arrived on the morning of 23 May
removed by police officers to a place of safety.
instead of the night before, as had been earlier
At the same time, many adults fainted from the
announced. He arrived on board Air Force One at
intense heat and stifling air. People elbowed each
Noi Bai International Airport and visited Ho Chi
other to get to the site, causing further crushes
Minh City the following day, before leaving for
and distress.
Japan on the last day of his Asian visit. The White House stated that his Vietnam visit was aimed at
The government approved changes to existing
addressing various matters, including maritime
visa laws for American citizens. Coming into force
disputes and human rights issues.
a couple of months later, US citizens could now obtain a 12 multi-entry visa on arrival for just
The scenes around Ho Chi Minh City as the
$135. Many travel agencies in the city offer the
entourage drove through town was akin to those
required introductory letter, their fees varying
welcoming the biggest of rock stars, with crowds
between $12 and $35. This means that a run to
cheering as Obama drove by.
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NEWS
July: Saigon Centre Grand Opening The new Saigon Centre, strategically located on the corner of Le Loi and Pasteur, held its grand opening in July. The store made an immediate impact on the urban landscape of Ho Chi Minh
June: Massive Fish Deaths
City. Offering over 400 world-renowned brands, 25% of which were introduced to Vietnam for the first time, shoppers found a highly exclusive
Once again the health of the nation’s food was brought into sharp focus as fish died in massive numbers along the country’s coastline.
selection of products from all over the world. Included were such names as Carolina Herrera, Kenzo, Moschino, Stuart Weitzman and Armani Exchange.
The Formosa Ha Tinh Steel Corporation officially apologised to the Vietnamese Government and people for killing tonnes of fish in the central coastal provinces since early April, and in order to make up for it, paid Vietnam $500 million in compensation. Local people had been pointing their fingers at the chemical giant for several months before it finally admitted responsibility. The company admitted the existence of a sewage pipe connecting the plant
Aside from a wide range of designer products, the new mall also features over 50 restaurants and
better management, like age limits, or the plan
food stalls. It is located just a short distance from
could backfire. Ho Chi Minh has always had
Dong Khoi walking street, Ben Thanh Market and
its Bui Vien late night scene of course; it will be
the famous Opera House.
interesting to see how the capital now develops.
August: Hanoi to Lift Midnight Curfew for Tourists to Have Fun
to the ocean. It was reported several days before the incident that 300 tonnes of chemicals were imported by Formosa to clean the pipe.
allowing tourists to have more late night fun. The
Formosa was later ordered by the government to remove the sewage pipe. The story was big enough to warrant its own Wikipedia page.
Hanoi lifted its unpopular midnight curfew, announcement was made by the city chairman at a tourism promotion conference in Hoi An. Entertainment venues are now allowed to remain open overnight. Prior to the announcement all restaurants, cafes, nightclubs and karaoke parlours in Hanoi had to close at midnight, though some bars and clubs in top-tier hotels and resorts were permitted stay open until 2 a.m.
September: Vietnam Claims First-ever Paralympic Gold Medal
Many tourists in the capital, as well as Ho Chi Minh City, had previously complained about the
Following on from the Olympic success of
lack of night activities, with some saying they have
41-year-old army colonel Hoang Xuan Vinh’s
nothing to do other than drink beer on sidewalks.
historic gold in the men’s 10-metre air pistol
Officials at the meeting said the change needed
competition, the country again struck gold in
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NEWS
the Paralympics. Weightlifter Le Van Cong’s final attempt in the men’s 49 kg weightlifting
October: Floods Hit Central Vietnam
#iAMHCMC
xuanhuongho
competition secured the country’s firstever Paralympic gold medal at the 2016 Rio Paralympics in Brazil. Cong snatched the medal as he finished the competition with a new world record of 183 kg. Silver medallist Omar Qarada from Jordan finished with a lift of 177 kg. The bronze medal went to Hungarian Nandor Tunkel, who lifted 155 kg. The Vietnamese Olympic team left Brazil in high spirits and returned to Vietnam to a hero’s welcome.
The weather made autumn headlines with the tragic deaths of many people. They drowned after multiple flash floods and landslides hit Vietnam’s central provinces. The floods began in the second week of October and the accompanying 150160 km/hr winds damaged thousands of homes and displaced hundreds of thousands of people. Nearly 1,300 Vietnamese and 96 foreigners were
closed from 15 October onwards, it is still open
evacuated from the central provinces of Nghe An,
at the time of writing. The city’s Management
Ha Tinh, Quang Tri and Quang Binh.
Authority of Urban Railways (MAUR), which
If the devastation of the initial floods wasn’t enough to cause concern, Typhoon Sarika followed hot on their heels a few weeks later causing further turmoil. Luckily Vietnam escaped the full weight of the typhoon as it was downsized to a tropical storm. The Philippines and China, however, were smashed by Typhoon Sarika, which caused much destruction.
is responsible for Saigon’s metro construction, announced the closure, which was reported in the Saigon Times. Contractors will block off Le Loi as well as Quach Thi Trang Roundabout in order to begin the construction of an underground tunnel which will link the Saigon Metro’s Ben Thanh Station with the nearby Opera House Station. The 515-metre tunnel is expected to affect 75 trees in the surrounding area, according to
November: Ben Thanh Market Roundabout is Closing The government announced the closure of the roundabout in front of Ben Thanh Market and
Duong Huu Hoa, director of Project Management Board 1 under MAUR. Of those trees, 51 will be uprooted and relocated, while the remaining 24 will simply be cut down. The underground tunnel will be completed in 2020, just in time for Saigon Metro Line 1 to begin operation.
District 1’s Le Loi Street, which is to be fenced
This short-term problem should ultimately bring
off for metro construction. Originally due to be
huge benefit to the city centre.
(All the above news items have been sourced from: vnexpress.net, vietnamnews.vn, tuoitrenews.vn and saigoneer.com)
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#iAMHCMC
christmas feature
by Keith Hancock
Christmas Around the Globe apple pie are popular, in addition to Christmas pudding or fruitcake. Although Thanksgiving is a bigger family meal, this is still an important one. Christmas Tradition: Over the years, the decorations on people’s houses have become more and more lavish, with neighbours trying to outdo each other. Nowadays it takes a small nuclear reactor to power some neighbourhoods.
Spain Christmas Food: Spain has its traditional foods, but it’s not as big of a meal as it is in other
For many countries, Christmas is the most important festival of the year. This day is the highlight of the Christian calendar, celebrating Christ’s birthday.
How Christmas is Celebrated Around the World:
However, argument has raged for centuries as to
Christmas Food: In the UK, turkey is easily the
whether or not the Christians merely appropriated
most commonly cooked meat for Christmas dinner,
Christmas Tradition: Christmas lasts for three
the date from the Pagans. Long before the birth
although goose used to be more prevalent. Either
weeks here. Their presents are delivered by a
of Christ, Pagans throughout the Northern
bird is oven roasted and is served with sage, onion
kind but ugly witch called Befana, riding on a
Hemisphere were celebrating at this time of year.
or chestnut stuffing, roast and boiled potatoes,
broomstick. However, they have to wait until
brussels sprouts, carrots, cranberry sauce and
Epiphany on 6 January to open their gifts.
It was originally seen as the beginning of longer days, following the winter solstice on 21 December. The Romans would stuff themselves with food
UK
gravy. For dessert, they eat Christmas pudding or fruitcake.
and drink and give presents for the festival of
countries. Families eat a nice, hearty dinner that may consist of seafood, soup, cheese, ham and pate. Spain has a variety of unique Christmas sweets, including nougats, marzipans, crumbly cakes and cookies.
Russia Christmas Food: For many, Christmas Eve is a
Saturnalia on 17 December. Saturn, the Roman
time of fasting, until the first star appears in the
God of agriculture, was honoured during this time,
night sky. People then eat pagach, a bread dipped
and gifts symbolised a redistribution of wealth
in honey and garlic, and sochivo, a wheat or rice
from the rich to the poor; this was, after all, the
porridge served with honey, poppy seeds, berries,
season of greatest hardship. The holiday was
dried fruit or chopped walnuts. Sauerkraut is
marked with a sacrifice at the Temple of Saturn.
another traditional main dish, with dessert mainly
Speaking of sacrifice and two-faced behaviour,
consisting of kompot, a sweet beverage made
nowadays it’s all about family get-togethers. We
by boiling fruit, and sometimes gingerbread or
try to forget our worries, spend time with our loved ones, enjoy ourselves, and eat ourselves into a coma. This is the most overindulgent time of the year, which probably accounts for the most predominant New Year’s resolution being, you guessed it, to lose weight. So anyway, here you are, in Vietnam, either with or without your family. How do you celebrate
Christmas Tradition: Children hang stockings,
honeybread cookies.
or nowadays with the relentless march of consumerism, pillowcases, in order to get their presents delivered by Father Christmas. Football is huge on Boxing Day, with many kids experiencing their first game as a Christmas treat.
America
your Christmas dinner in a way that reminds you of home? More often than not, there will
Christmas Food: In the United States, families eat
Christmas Tradition: As the Russian Orthodox
be restaurants serving up your favourite dishes
similar food as in the UK - turkey with stuffing,
church uses the Julian calendar, Christmas is
on Christmas Day. But how do your fellow
mashed potatoes, gravy - but honey glazed ham
celebrated on 7 January. The Russian word for
countrymen and women celebrate back home?
is more the norm, and for dessert, pumpkin or
Christmas Eve is “sochelnik”, which has its roots
6 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
christmas FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
Cooking a Traditional Christmas Meal? Shop Here:
in the word “sochivo”. Their version of Santa Claus is Ded Moroz (Father Frost), who is joined on Christmas by Snegurochka, his granddaughter and helper.
Thao Dien in District 2 has become a speciality street for lovers of all things good from home. At
France
8 Thao Dien is the Organik Shop, selling GAP certified organic food.
Christmas Food: In France, families eat roasted meats like capon, turkey, lamb, venison or turkey stuffed with chestnuts, accompanied by green beans, courgettes and mushrooms. Oysters, smoked salmon and, of course, foie gras are also favourites.
Annam Gourmet has one of its HCMC branches at kind but ugly witch called Befana, riding on a
41A Thao Dien, with excellent Western food from
broomstick. However, they have to wait until
main course ingredients to cheeses, vegetables,
Epiphany on 6 January to open their gifts.
chocolates and more. The other branches are in
For dessert, buche de Noel is the traditional dish.
Netherlands
This is a buttercream log, topped with colourful
Christmas Eve followed by an equally large lunch on Christmas Day. Nativity scenes outside homes are a common site.
Italy
Christmas Food: Eerste Kerstdag (First Christmas Day) is on 25 December and Tweede Kerstdag (Second Christmas Day) on 26 December. Christmas dinner normally would include game, vegetables roast pork, a fondue or gourmetten (similar to a Vietnamese barbecue). Christmas Tradition: In Holland, Christmas Day
Christmas Food: In Italy, each region has its particular traditional Christmas dinner. Typically, these elaborate meals include plenty of pasta, fish and meat - although in some Italian households, only fish and vegetables (and no meat) are eaten in order to purify the body for the holidays.
Centre), and District 7 (My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh on 65 Le Loi). Also in District 7, you can find
little Christmas figurines. Christmas Tradition: A large dinner is served on
District 1 (16-18 Hai Ba Trung and in Saigon
is merely a religious affair, the giving of presents to children comes earlier in the month. On 5 December, Sinterklaas will tour the towns on horseback. The horse is called Amerigo*, and is accompanied by Zwarte Piet (Black Pete), who sports a curly wig and black paint on his/her face. Although nowadays, Black Pete has been pretty
the Giant supermarket in Crescent Mall, on 101 Ton Dat Tien. They have an extensive inventory of affordable items. Meatworks Butchery on No.1 Street 2 has its frontage on Thao Dien with an impressive collection of beef, lamb, poultry and more – excellent if you are planning a barbecue. Just off Thao Dien on 31 Tong Huu Dinh, VP Seafood provides a diverse range of quality seafood. Meanwhile District 1 has Phuong Ha on 58 Ham Nghi with myriad products. Over on 29A Le Thanh Ton, Veggy’s sells speciality imported goods and products grown on their own Dalat farm.
Christmas Tradition: Christmas lasts for three
much banished in the country due to controversy,
*Bizarrely in Belgium, the horse is named Slecht
weeks here. Their presents are delivered by a
replaced by various other colours.
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7
#iAMHCMC
christmas feature
by Jake Hornberger
Why Christmas Sucks different religious sects. So much for Christmas cheer. The next wave of change came about in the United States after the American Revolution. In the early 19th century, Christmas was often met with rioting from the poverty-stricken lower classes. As a result, many citizens and the governments of both the United States and England demanded that citizens hold more peaceful and family-oriented celebrations. These changes resulted in many of the common customs we still uphold today.
Western Commercialisation of Christmas So, are we any better off? When looking at the ridiculous commercialisation of Christmas in the West, it seems we are still missing the point.
Let’s face it, Christmas sucks.
turned upside down. For a month, slaves would become masters. Peasants were in command of
If we take an honest look at the holiday’s bloody history, the commercial circus it has become today and the tremendous stress felt during this time, it’s easy to see plenty of negatives. As Christmas gains popularity in Vietnam and HCMC, it will be interesting to see what course it will take here.
The Violent History of Christmas
the city. Businesses and schools were closed so that everyone could join in the fun.” (History.com) By the Middle Ages Christmas had finally replaced the pagan versions of this celebration, as Christianity overtook most of Europe.
celebrating what we now call Christmas for over 2,000 years, and its roots lie in polytheistic pagan traditions. In Germany, people went into hiding from the god Odin, who would fly around at this time of the year to observe his people. Those not living in accordance with the pagan belief were thought to perish. So people stayed indoors to avoid judgement. This was a time a fear.
celebrated raucously in a drunken, carnival-like atmosphere similar to today’s Mardi Gras. Each misrule” and eager celebrants played the part of his subjects. The poor would go to the houses of
trillion, according to statista.com. Since 2000, there has been a consistent increase in retail sales; Christmas has become more about spending money than anything else.
Holiday Depression In addition to the shopping madness and the deaths associated with religious fanaticism, let’s not forget that for the less fortunate, this has always been a time of depression, despair and at worst, suicide. A 2014 study in Queensland, Australia, looking
owners failed to comply, their visitors would most
at the years 1990 to 2009, found a statistically
likely terrorize them with mischief.” (History.com)
significant increase in suicides on Christmas Eve
By the 17th century Christmas entered another
and New Year’s Day.
stage as Oliver Cromwell and his genocidal gang
Christmas in Vietnam seems to be much more
of Puritans took control of England. Cromwell
down to earth. Although it is a new concept that
cancelled Christmas in hopes of keeping England
is being warmly embraced regardless of religion,
free from the sinful behaviour he believed to be
it seems to uphold the values that have been lost
associated with the holiday. Shortly thereafter,
in the West.
King Charles II came to power and Christmas was
in honour of the agricultural deity Saturn.
reinstated. This was a time of savage bloodshed
solstice and continuing for a full month, Saturnalia
the United States retail industry raked in over $3
the rich and demand their best food and drink. If
In Rome, the celebration was known as Saturnalia
“Beginning in the week leading up to the winter
create the need to buy, buy, buy. In 2013 alone,
“On Christmas, believers attended church, then
year, a beggar would be crowned the “lord of Many countries around Europe have been
Advertising agencies have worked tirelessly to
and war, and a raucous time between Protestants and Catholics that resulted in thousands of deaths.
In HCMC, families spend time together, there is no serious pressure to spend hundreds of dollars on gifts, and the general atmosphere is much more
was a hedonistic time, when food and drink were
As Christmas was a key practice in the Christian
pleasant and unrestricted. Perhaps we in the West
plentiful and the normal Roman social order was
religion, it was often a catalyst for disputes between
need to rethink how we celebrate.
8 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
by Keith Hancock
holiday feature
#iAMHCMC
Best Places to See the Fireworks It’s that time of year again, the New Year! And in Saigon, New Year 2017 means fireworks. The Vietnamese really do love these displays and they do them extremely well. The city and the riverfront will be alive to the sights and sounds of aerial explosions at midnight. The riverfront presents a perfect venue and viewing spot. It does, however, get incredibly busy as thousands pour in
Chill Skybar
The Rooftop Garden Bar
will make things worse. If you want to avoid the
26th and 27th Floor, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai street,
8th Floor, Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue street, D1
crush, the best way to see the show is to get in early
Ben Thanh Ward, D1
on their motorbikes to see the show. This year the huge increase in four-wheel traffic
and get to one of the superb rooftop locations. Here you will be able to sit back, order your drinks and relax. Some of the best venues to see the fireworks.
Air 360 Sky Bar Rooftop 22nd-23rd , Ben Thanh Tower,
Without doubt the coolest bar in town, Chill
their propaganda-laden press conferences during
Skybar is incredibly popular with Saigon’s bright
the war. It’s a high-end, smart restaurant bar
young things. The steak here is legendary and the
with terrific views of the very heart of the city.
decor is just exquisite. Open air, superbly lit and
Kicking off the New Year’s Eve with the hottest
with fantastic views, it is hard to imagine a better
Latin melodies, Rex Hotel’s New Year 2017 event
bar for fireworks viewing
will feature an endless supply of soft drinks, wine, beer and mineral water. Adult tickets cost VND3.6
Bamboo Chic at Le Méridien
136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam street, D1 This venue has a more adult vibe than its cousin, Chill Skybar, and a more laid-back atmosphere,
This was the place where foreign journalists held
9th Floor, Le Méridien Saigon Hotel,
million and children’s tickets are VND1.8 million.
Level 23 Wine Bar
3C Ton Duc Thang Street, D1 23rd Floor, Sheraton Saigon Hotel,
making it an ideal after-hours hangout for white-
There are some excellent window seats here that
collar professionals. The view is outstanding and
look out over part of the city, the waterfront and
more panoramic than Chill’s, making for some
the rapid development of District 2 just across the
An ideal place to meet up with friends and enjoy an
great fireworks action. The multi-level setup
river. This presents a clear vantage for fireworks
evening cocktail whilst absorbing the breathtaking
ensures that you won’t easily get bored as you
enjoyment. For New year’s Eve, the restaurant is
views of this wonderful city. The large outdoor
navigate from the sky deck to the bar area to the
presenting a special set dinner that includes free
area has both bar seating and table seating, and
stylish lounge.
flow champagne, wine and cocktails. Tickets are
the area is fringed with greenery. It all adds up
VND1.8 million.
to provide a wonderful ambience. The lounge
88 Dong Khoi street, D1
connected to the bar presents excellent views of
Liquid Sky Bar 8-15 Ton Duc Thang street, D1 Atop Riverside Renaissance Saigon Hotel is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most special rooftop views. Liquid Sky Bar sports two levels that
the fireworks.
Eon Heli Bar Level 50/51/52 - Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu Street, Ben Nghe Ward, D1
include a glass-encased bar and a large central
This is part of a three-storey venue offering bar and
pool. However, the prize element here is a
restaurant space high above the city, in the tallest
panoramic view of the riverfront side of District
building in town, the Bitexco Tower. The views
1, a stretch of Saigon River and a magnificent
from the bar are quite simply stunning, with huge
view of the quickly developing area of District
windows ensuring great visibility. This will be the
2. That means unprecedented views of the 2017
highest vantage from where to see the fireworks
fireworks.
show this New Year’s Eve. 9
#iAMHCMC
food & drink - January
by Nat Paolone
Goodbye Ca Phe Phin What’s the deal with all these cafes everywhere? Seems we are seeing another 5-10 new cafes opening every time we blink. Do people have more leisure time to hang out and sip coffee and browse Facebook? Khoa, a passionate roaster in District 3, describes the cafe explosion as a trendy, follow-the-flock phenomenon. New businesses are trying to cash in on the beans, but few are successful – around 50% in his humble opinion.
“Specialty cafes will prevail as many owners have stakes in local coffee farms helping drive the industry.” He predicts that the brewing methods of Chemex, Syphon, V60, and his specialty cold-drip will excel.
“Cold drip extracts maximum flavour from the beans in four hours.” Son, a local cafe owner in Dong Nai Province believes in the past few years Vietnamese have begun seeking pure additive-free coffee. His small
Let’s have a look and dive into this nouveau coffee
Coffee), as the demand for quality coffee grows.
culture blooming in Vietnam, and particularly
Local quality is steadily increasing as farmers,
in Saigon. It used to be: relax and take a sip of
roasters and retailers learn the techniques of
traditional Vietnamese coffee, filter sitting on
brewing, combined with discerning customers
your cup with thick black liquid slowly creeping
aware of the profit-before-quality template. Still,
down as it brews. It may not be the purest form
the general consensus is that less than 5% of
of coffee in the world but it does wake you up!
Saigonese actually seek out pure coffee houses,
Not only are cafes sprouting exponentially, many
For decades this has been the local standard brew.
although the trend is growing. More and more
are roasting coffee on-site, adding to the ambiance
Then by the early 2000s we began to see some
Vietnamese cafes are 100% espresso-based,
of cafe culture.
espresso machines around, often reserved for the 5
no longer using the traditional “Phin Ca Phe”
stars and high-end hangouts. Classy Italian coffees
for brewing.
started to be seen, the beginning of the Italian espresso style cafe culture.
So what’s going on? I asked some locals, including specialty cafe owners, customers, and regular cafe
Established coffee chains, sprawling multiple
owners for their opinions. Let’s take a look what
locations, arrived on the scene. They often appear
they had to say.
first in emerging markets, introducing espressobased beverages. Locals then study their style and open their own versions, often pulling off a decent rendition. One cafe owner suggests the multinationals are not doing so well, contrasting specialty cafes working side by side with the others of their kind to facilitate the growth of the market.
“If we can get along with competitors… if we work together, we can [succeed].”
10 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
blooming with locals, seeking this virginal brew for an intoxicating quickie. Even here, many customers are seeking pure coffee, lending to his growing success.
“The smell of freshly roasted coffee is evocative, intoxicating and all-round delicious.” - James Hoffman, 2007 World Barista Champion. Specialty coffee is in its infancy stages, priming the current generation’s palates to build on this coffee
“The coffee market is slowly maturing to accept new specialty coffees,” says Dung, a local cafe owner, as he sips a high grade Kenyan drip.
knowledge. This new education and awareness of local quality coffee from bean to cup is exciting, especially for a country that produces the most Robusta in the world. This may help kickstart high-end Arabica trade, improving Vietnam’s
Kim, a young barista perfecting her latte art
coffee ranking worldwide.
at a high-end downtown cafe, believes many Vietnamese are not so concerned whether the
Despite the renaissance, Saigon remains the
coffee is 100% pure, or dry processed, fair traded
epicenter of “pure” cafe culture. Once outside
or even pooped out from our friendly civet cat
this former pearl of the orient you’ll be very
(Cafe Chon), they just want good coffee!
lucky to find “just coffee” in your cup. Espresso-
You may notice the trending signs on cafes proclaiming 100% Cafe Nguyen Chat (Pure
roadside cafe between Saigon and Vung Tau is
based coffee increases the odds, but there are
“If it’s good, they’ll drink it.”
no guarantees.
by Patrick Gaveau
febuary - MEET THE EXPERT
#iAMHCMC
Giovanni Parrella on Italian Food Napoli-born chef Giovanni Parrella has worked for 14 years with the Hyatt Group in some of the world’s most interesting food cultures.
What are the key elements of a successful romantic dinner? Ambience is the key. The table set up is so important, to express your love for your partner. Choose good music also. At The Reverie we make
In Istanbul, Mumbai and Beijing. His strong
the table very romantic and also provide a gift for
spirited father, who then owned a large
your lovely girl.
construction company with 300 staff, had planned for his son Giovanni to take over. Back in those
Why is food and love often so closely associated?
days, especially in the south of Italy, a child rarely
Why is food a symbol of love?
went against the elder’s will. With courage and
It comes from our parents, particularly our
conviction, Giovanni thought otherwise and began
mothers. The first food we have is breast milk,
working in the kitchen of a Napoli restaurant. He
no more loving food could ever exist. It is about
began work 6 a.m. every day at age 12, and he
family. Family meals should always be together.
has been in the industry ever since.
The Reverie Saigon | 22-36 Nguyen Hue, D1 thereveriesaigon.com | +84 (0)8 3823 6688
A symbol of love can be anything. In my own
For the last four years, he has been Executive Chef
family we never eat outside the family dinner table
his wife. But the love and humour of their
of one the city’s most luxurious 5 star hotels -
until I was past 16 years old! Meaning I never got
relationship always shone through.
The Reverie Saigon. As an Italian man, he lives
out in the evening with friends until then because
up to his reputation as a man for love, food and
food was on the table at home.
passion. The Reverie has four Italian, one French,
love in the relationship?
thee from Hong Kong and three from mainland
What are the best dishes for couples to share/eat
China, and several Vietnamese chefs. Their ethos
together?
are to always be there for their customers. “The
I will come back to chocolate again, using it in
most important things is to let the customers feel
a pot as with fondue is a great symbol of shared
what we feel,” Giovanni says.
love. It’s all about the sensual textures as well as the flavours. Symbolic foods are asparagus,
What venue at The Reverie is best suited for
caviar, chocolate or cocoa in general. For me it is
a romantic occasion?
chocolate, because it is sweet. Sweetness is added
We have three venues where customers can
for special sweet occasions.
celebrate Valentine’s Day with their partners. One is the R&J Italian Lounge & Restaurant, the other
What do you like to prepare for your wife on
is The Royal Pavilion and the last is Café Cardinal.
romantic occasions?
Café Cardinal is our French Restaurant on the
If you are not a great cook, it can be simple if you
sixth floor, it offers comfort food by day. In the
do as I do with my own wife. When I want to make
evening it’s a fine dining restaurant. The Royal
her happy, I always go with cheese and red wine
Pavilion is our Chinese restaurant. But of course, I
with nuts, honey and dried fruit.
am Italian and so I would like to talk more about R&J Restaurant. This of course is all about Romeo
What’s better, food or sex?
and Juliet. A love story that oozes passion, fire
[. . . long pause . . .] I think it’s a difficult question.
and love. The restaurant is lit by candlelight. The
[. . . long pause . . .] Food is more important, you
food is superb.
cannot live without it, and besides I can eat three
We are only able to import 500 cheeses per month;
Does your spouse’s skill in the kitchen affect the
times every day, nobody gets that much sex!
For me yes it definitely does. My wife has been brought up in the old fashioned ways, from eight years of age she brought up her sisters. She is a chef also, she makes homemade breads, eggplant Parmigiana... wow! She is the best. For us it runs in the family. I remember on Sundays as a boy, when we visited my grandmother. She used to cook so well, from 500 metres away we could smell the wood fire, the homemade bread and the beef ragout that had been cooking for maybe 6-12 hours. What spices are aphrodisiacs? Chilli and star anise, cinnamon and vanilla are reputedly aphrodisiacs. What wine/food pairings are the most romantic? For Vietnamese, bubbles and love are always together. They always want Champagne, whereas we traditionally think of Champagne for a celebration. However, for love, I would personally go for a nice
this is the capacity of the small family firm that
But the relationship between the two is always
produce it. This is a superb product. It is also light,
there. My grandfather use to say, make sure your
we don’t want our guests on Valentine’s Day to
spouse knows how to cook. When I asked why
Normally just known as Amarone, it’s a beautiful
be so full that after they just want to go to sleep...
he said, “The love will pass, the hunger will stay.”
sensual rich Italian dry red wine, in my opinion a
the night is young.
Of course he was joking, he was so proud of
beautiful red wine.
Amarone della Valpolicella.
11
#iAMHCMC
law feature - march
by Zoe Osborne
10 Laws Every Expat Should Know Vietnamese law is as layered as it is complex, and for many expats living in Vietnam the regulations, prohibitions and requirements remain a mystery. So we decided to compile a neat list of regulations that this country definitely has (but largely does not enforce) and that every expat should know. Enjoy.
Probation A probationary period cannot exceed 30 days of employment with a position that requires professional or vocational qualifications, 60 days
Starting a Business
of employment with a position requiring a college level qualification or above, and six days in all other cases. Officially, you will be paid a minimum
Starting a small business in Vietnam is definitely
of 85% of that position’s official wage, but, this
an option, foreigner or not, but the process is
is Vietnam.
not easy. There are many things you’ve got to do before you can open, many of which are not
Buying Property
usually requirements for start-ups. Often you will also need quite a lot of cash saved. Some start their business before registering and pay once they have some funds saved but, since it is blatantly illegal, this isn’t really a great way to begin your project. When planning your business make sure you are in contact with a lawyer who can advise
Legal Marrying Age in Vietnam
you directly on the ins and outs of the law as it applies to your idea, and if possible speak to a successful CEO in the same field about his/her
The legal age for getting married here is 20 for men and 18 for women.
Working Children Another recently outdated law revolves around your children. Previously, if you had children they were obliged BY LAW to respect you, listen to your advice and, if they were living at home, had to earn money for the house! This law seems to
Traffic
after which you can renew the lease without the rent being upped, but you only legally own your property as long as you lease the land. Oh Vietnam… how confusing you are.
Rent Make sure you are registered with the government when you move into a place. Usually the local requirement and, for the sake of efficiency as much
legally obliged to be obnoxious with your horn
as honesty, you should do it. Ask your landlord.
when overtaking someone. You are also not allowed to undertake, though everyone does, and
Porn and Prostitutes
you are not allowed to drive or ride a bicycle with headphones in, though everyone also does...
driving without a licence is also obviously a no
their parents.
no, and red lights are supposed to be obeyed… Our theory is that Vietnam’s road rules have been introduced for the purpose of being deliberately ignored.
Work Hours
This one is simple: just don’t bring porn with you. It is illegal to import porn to Vietnam, since porn itself is illegal in Vietnam. That being said, prostitution is also illegal here and we all know how well that law is enforced. So! Are you feeling more informed? Are you a bit overwhelmed? Confused? Numb? No matter your feeling, I suggest taking a long bath (or cold bucket shower) in your home (on
defence education classes. As a part of their degree, university students learn about the history
As of Vietnam’s new Labour Code introduced in
of Vietnam, and young Vietnamese men between
2013, you are officially not allowed to work for
the ages of 18 and 28 can be called to the army at
one employer for more than 48 hours a week. This
any time provided they are fit enough and are not
means a maximum of 8 hours a day or, if you only
currently studying. These young men can serve
work a few days a week, an absolute maximum
from 1 to 3 years, away from family and friends.
of 10 hours a day without being paid overtime.
12 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
itself. Land leases last a maximum of 50 years,
According to traffic rules in Vietnam, you are
grow up with the honest drive to give back to
in a Vietnamese school is enrolled in compulsory
on a piece of land, but you must lease the land
police will take care of this, but either way, it is a
More than two people on a motorbike is illegal,
It is a government requirement that every child
right: you can legally own the property that is built
experience.
have evolved into a social law now – most children
Defence Education
Foreigners can buy a house, but not land. That’s
land that you can’t own) and letting it all soak in… Before scrapping your license and insurance, drinking all the beers, running all the red lights, and driving to the airport to collect your imported 700 ciggies… Because this, my friends, is Vietnam.
by Frank Fox
april - education FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
What Vietnamese Kids Learn in School What do Vietnamese kids actually learn in public schools here? Former educator Frank Fox provides a glimpse into the local system.
The school system in Vietnam rests on one major foundation: learning by heart. While beneficial in fields like mathematics and geometry, it suffocates creativity in other subjects. Don’t get me wrong, there is creativity going on in Vietnam. There are people with the ability to react fast, find independent solutions and do as good a job as everybody else in the world. But it is not the native education system that hauls in the credit in these cases, only individual effort and determination. Fortunately these essential traits are
By World Bank Photo
commonly found in Vietnamese people. Let’s have a look a look at each level in the
it’s still primary school, so the pressure is not yet
Chemistry: This subject is taught without
Vietnamese education system.
in full effect.
exploding oxyhydrogen, there is no mixing of
Kindergarten in Vietnam Kindergarten is not yet dominated by learning, it’s rather a nursery with opportunities to play and learn the rules of social interaction. Yes friends, to ensure that your child is treated well at the kindergarten, a monthly gift, nicely wrapped in an envelope, is more than welcome in both public and private institutions.
Primary School in Vietnam Once in primary school, our children face a
sugar with sulphuric acid and no lithium tossed
Secondary School in Vietnam
into a bowl of water. But as I mentioned above, you
If somebody in Europe told you that he had to
Biology: Apparently there is an array of interesting
learn the periodic table by heart, you would either
experiments conducted in Vietnamese secondary
roll on the floor laughing or buy him a pint out
school that we didn’t do, even at high school. They
of pity. Well, be prepared to dish out many pints
practice microscopy, anatomy and even dissecting
in Vietnam.
a live frog.
Mathematics: This is the same as everywhere else
History: This comes with a general introduction
in the universe. I actually can’t imagine any other
to the king generation of Vietnam. On average,
way to learn math than to learn the rules first,
kids get 12 A4 pages per week about how many
and then start applying these rules and playing
helicopters were destroyed in this battle, how
with numbers.
many soldiers died in that battle or this general’s
get to learn the periodic table of elements by heart.
biography, etc.
curriculum that consists of the following basic
Literature: In Vietnam you basically learn about
subjects: Mathematics, English, Reading and
Vietnamese authors, preferably those from the
High School in Vietnam: High school is basically
Writing, Sports, Crafting, Painting, Music and
army. You read articles, discuss the morale of the
the same as in secondary school, except there is
Morals and Etiquette.
story and the writing style of the author. After that
more pressure and more to learn than before. The
you learn his biography by heart.
entrance exam for universities is quite similar too.
moral and etiquette subject with basic science, it
English: Grammar here is taught well, nobody
At home in Austria, I sometimes cursed the
looks like our own curriculum back home. The
can deny that. The main problem here is many
outdated school system. But seeing the Vietnamese
difference is, that the children here learn by heart
Vietnamese English teachers deliver a strong
education system at work almost made me exclaim
what can be learned by heart. In music you learn
accent, and copying them doesn’t make it better.
“Tu Felix Austria!”
the notes and repeat meticulously what’s in the
If students find time to watch English movies on
book. Even if learning by heart already kicks in,
their own, they can develop pretty good skills.
Looks pretty neat, doesn’t it? If you replace the
Read the full article at iamhcmc.com/vnedu 13
#iAMHCMC
ho chi minh city feature - May
by Frank Fox
9 Alternative Things to Do in Saigon You can read about Ben Thanh Market everywhere, so you know it’s mainly for tourists. Here are nine alternative things you can do in Saigon. Enjoy!
Instead of: Ben Thanh Market Visit: Binh Tay Market Also called Cho Lon Market, Binh Tay is between Districts 5 and 6. Even though it is a part of many city tours, it is not as flooded with foreigners as Ben Thanh Market. The prices are a little lower, and it is mostly a wholesale market. Especially in the weeks before traditional holidays, the place is very busy selling tons of decorations. Englishspeaking vendors are rare here in Chinatown,
you can also buy lower quantities of the freshest produce. A visit here is well worth the effort.
Instead of: Coca Cola Drink: Fresh fruit juice
Instead of: Pigs Eat: Indian vegetable curry I always thought that a tasty dish requires meat, or it’s just not as filling and satisfying as it could be. Well, Indian cuisine changed that for good. It
Nuoc ep, or fruit juice, is available cheaply at
has awesome vegetarian dishes with that fabulous
street-side stalls. Like with so many things in
naan bread, and you don’t miss the meat at all.
Vietnam, go for the busiest stalls. Also try nuoc
For the Muslims among our readers: most Indian
mia, sugarcane juice that is not only delicious, but
restaurants offer halal food.
also supplies you with the minerals your body loses every day through perspiration. Also try sinh to, the great Vietnamese fruit smoothies.
Instead of: Shopping malls Visit: Nguyen Trai
but Mandarin and Cantonese are widely spoken.
Instead of: Brownies Eat: Banh chuoi In Austria, cake with coffee is such an old tradition that people consider them as inseparable. Cakes in Vietnam, however, are different, such as the
There is a street for every commodity: lantern
popular banh da lon (pig skin cake) or banh khoai
street, guitar street, used bicycle street and, of
mon (taro cake). I especially fancy banh chuoi,
course, fashion street. While you can buy your
a Vietnamese banana cake with sticky rice that
fashionable shoes, nice dresses or typical shorts
is usually eaten with warm and creamy coconut
at shopping malls or Saigon Square, Nguyen Trai
sauce. A good banana cake can make your day,
street is long, busy and entertaining on a whole
so if you find one of those busy shops at street
new level.
corners, mark the address.
Instead of: Coffee chains Try: Artisan coffee shops
Instead of: Heineken Drink: Local beers
Yes, they are pricier than others, but well worth it.
Why would anybody bother with international
Great coffee beans from farms all over the world
dishwater, if some of the greatest beers in Asia are
are freshly roasted, ground and brewed. The taste
brewed right around the corner? Platinum tastes
is very different from your normal coffee, and if
just awesome and its headquarters are right here
you are especially curious you can try speciality
in District 1. Hoa Vien offers dark, Czech style
coffee beans prepared by different brewing
beer on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street. But don’t
Binh Dien Market in District 8 is the biggest
methods. Three artisan cafes I can recommend
forget Pasteur Brewing Company on Pasteur and,
wholesale market for fruits and vegetables in the
are The Workshop, The Cupping Room and Shin
of course, the ever-expanding medley of other
city. It does not only grant you the best price,
Coffee. Coffee Republic also offers quality coffee.
craft breweries.
Instead of: 23/9 Park Visit: Tao Dan Park Tao Dan Park is the favourite location for locals doing their morning exercises. You can also witness birds singing if you appear at the cafe here before 9 a.m. During traditional holidays you may witness bonsai exhibitions and other interesting events. This park is nice and peaceful, especially compared to 23/9 Park at Pham Ngu Lao street which is crawling with drug addicts and cutpurses after dark.
Instead of: Supermarkets Visit: Binh Dien Market
14 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
by Steve Raymond
June - Travel FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
Sea, Sun and Wind
Phan Thiet Local Insight The city covers sixty kilometers of coastline and each area offers something unique. The city is famous for the red and white sand
Distance from HCMC: 198 km
3h 30m
dunes, Taku Mountain and the largest reclining
4h
Top things to buy!
5h
Key Features:
Buddha in Southeast Asia, the century-old Ke Ga Lighthouse, the Fairy Stream and of course, kitesurfing and sailing. But there is so much more. Beach
“The city centre and the various communities along the coast retain much of their charm and have not yet been spoiled or over-commercialised like Phuket, Bali, and so many others.” Although tourism has exploded in the past 20 years, both the city centre and the various communities along the coast retain much of their charm and have not yet been spoiled or over-commercialised like the communities in Phuket, Bali, Mallorca and so many other major tourist destinations around the world. Although tourism enterprises have become the major employer, fishing and the related businesses still dominate the life of the majority of the residents. This is evident by the hundreds of fishing boats lining the rivers in the city centre and docked throughout Mui Ne Bay and along the coast at Tien Thanh and Ke Ga. Instead of succumbing to the lure of tourism brochures and internet sites, don’t just lie on the beach or visit the attractions, but delve into the
Family
Nightlife
Sports
Go down to the water’s edge as the fishing boats are arriving and watch as the families gather to separate the fish. Then head to one of the local markets to see the frenetic bargaining for the day’s catch. Afterwards, visit a local dragon fruit farm and see how the farmers turn a yearly crop into a tri-yearly one.
“Don’t just lie on the beach or visit the attractions, but delve into the local scene and see why those of us who live here, love it so much.” Most of the resorts offer bicycles, either complementary or for a small rental fee. By riding a bicycle, rather than a motorbike or a car, one notices much more. If you prefer the wide open spaces, take the road north of Mui Ne ward beyond the white sand dunes toward Vinh Hao. The road south of the city centre through Tien Thanh ward to Ke Ga Lighthouse will take you past two small communities and many uncluttered
“Much of the activity in fishing communities takes place in the early hours of the morning, so get up when they do and immerse yourself in the culture.” In the evening, don’t just stay in your resort or dine at a restaurant full of other tourists. Venture out to one of the more popular local venues. If you are staying in Ham Tien, go to Ham Tien Market. Between there and the corner where the street name changes from Nguyen Dinh Chieu to Huynh Thuc Khang are a number of goat hot pot restaurants, filled with local Vietnamese. Dining there will be a unique, unforgettable experience. If you’re near the city centre, the latest hot spots are the various Vietnamese barbecue restaurants where you cook your own meal at your table. If you’re in Mui Ne, head to the local high school. In front are a number of beef and goat hot pot restaurants, as well as some very trendy cafes.
ocean vistas. However, if you prefer more activity,
If you want to finish your evening on a high note
just ride along Huynh Thuc Khang and Nguyen
and in a more traditional manner, there are lots of
Dinh Chieu in Ham Tien ward with its hundreds
things to do in Ham Tien ward. Joe’s Cafe usually
Most of the local residents rise before the sun.
of shops, restaurants, resorts and guest houses,
has some great live bands and a nice selection of
Much of the activity in fishing communities takes
then ride back along the four lane divided
Western food and wines. The current hot spot is
place in the early hours of the morning, so get up
highway just above Ham Tien, with its unending
Dragon Beach, near Bo Ke, where you can dance
when they do and immerse yourself in the culture.
ocean views.
until the sun comes up.
local scene and see why those of us who live here, love it so much.
15
#iAMHCMC
vietnam feature - july
by Patrick Gaveau
Why I Love the Vietnamese Vietnamese people are their country’s greatest asset. Having lived in South Vietnam for 10 years, I know that most have warm hearts. You only have to get down the streets to know this – just walk and count how many open, honest smiles you share with strangers before you reach your destination.
Vietnamese people are generous. My local family
during interactions with foreigners. I’m not sure
the next generation, and with new roots the tree
hosts us too often, and they love doing it. When
if it applies amongst themselves, but fortunately
continues to flourish.
we eat, I am often served first. They will offer me
on the outside it looks that way.
the best piece – the nicest cut of meat, the freshest vegetables, the thickest rolled spring roll. With generosity comes hope, and for most Vietnamese life is better now and it will get even better soon. There is hope in the eyes of every Saigonese parent and child we meet. This buoyant optimism is contagious, and those who don’t feel it won’t survive long in this country.
“Always look on the bright side of life. Otherwise it’ll be too dark to read.” - Unknown For so many, life is hard in Vietnam, and without optimism life can be impossible. Hard work is a part of everyday life here – in the lives of the young and the old, the farmers and street vendors, those who work 14/7 shifts to feed their families. Or in the lives of the many who travel south a thousand kilometres to find work so they can send money back home. Education is central for the Vietnamese. People of all ages often choose to pursue their education further. My sister-in-law began her PhD at 40 and her husband, soon to be 44, just graduated with a master’s degree. Both have full-time jobs and there are no complaints about their lack of time off.
“If you think education is expensive, try ignorance.” - Derek Bok
The Vietnamese have an inner strength and lots of resilience. They have been invaded by some of the most powerful civilisations in history, from the
“Family is not an important thing, it’s everything.” - Michael J. Fox
Mongols and the Chinese to the French and the
Though all family is respected and none so much
Americans. They have been colonised, squashed,
as the elders, Vietnam is in fact a young country.
their sovereignty has been threatened again and
Youth below 25 years of age represent 44.48% of
again, and every time they have come out as
the population. This is an asset that few countries
victors. Yet they are humble and magnanimous
have. Some 97.3% of the population is literate and
about it.
the education system is improving.
Perhaps this attitude can be attributed to culture.
Those who have never settled in Ho Chi Minh
The core of Vietnamese society is family values, an
City may believe that their freedom will be
intrinsic part of Vietnamese philosophy. It was in
restricted. But for me it is the one place on earth
Vietnam that I discovered the true meaning of this.
where freedom actually means something. Be as
Family are the roots that nourish the tree and its
you choose to, act as you choose to, dress as you
branches, which in time produce fruits in variety
see fit, and please let others be. It is the essence of
and abundance. The fruits become the seeds for
freedom in Vietnam. But with this freedom comes the responsibility to respect others, and respect for elders is an essential part of Vietnamese culture. True respect for elders and for teachers is expected and celebrated. They are held in high esteem and proper manners are taught at a young age. One should not disrespect another if he/she wishes to keep face, especially someone wiser and with more life experience.
“People who don’t cherish their elderly have forgotten from whence they came and whither they go.” - Unknown Finally, the Vietnamese embrace tolerance. There
People here work hard, are driven, and tend
are 53 ethnic minorities and different religions
not to complain. In fact, I can only recall a few
abound, all coexisting without conflict. Religious
occasions where direct criticism and complaints
beliefs are often incorporated with one another.
were openly voiced; it is a blessing to live in such
It is not uncommon to see a Christian praying at
an environment. Such calm behaviour is common
the temple or vice versa.
16 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
by Aleksandr Smechov August - vietnam FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
7 Stunning Reasons to Visit Vietnam Vietnam is far from perfect. It has its rough edges, its not so savoury moments. But it doesn’t hide them: it displays its quirks with a conscious pride. And for this, it’s like no other Southeast Asian country. Often called the country of contrasts, Vietnam is perfectly imperfect in its own way. Here are seven stunning reasons why.
Vietnam has a heart
getting on a boat ensures a tranquil day bordering on one long meditation. Life on the water is still
Vietnam does not have the loaded glitz and glamour of modern Asian cities like Seoul or Singapore, but it certainly has a heart. And this goes a long way – so much so that people who’ve lived all over
wonderfully active, from chaotic floating markets to the fascinating sight of floating villages.
Motorbikes are awesome
Asia swear by Vietnam and settle without so much as a second thought. The energy of the rapidly
No matter how much they freak newcomers out,
growing cities, the curiosity and drive of many
motorbikes in Vietnam are awesome. The true
young Vietnamese and a centuries-old culture all
way to experience the country, there is nothing
contribute to an infectious atmosphere that is hard
quite like getting on a motorbike, learning how to
to not fall for.
navigate the chaos of city streets (it’s easier than
The food alone is worth the trip It’s not for everyone, but many who come to
you think), and then getting lost in locations that not even a bus or car can venture through.
It’s not commercialised… yet
Vietnam distinctly remember their first bowl of
diving near more tropical locales, which showcase amazing rainbow coloured coral reefs, strange fish, invertebrates and underwater plants. There is also nothing like lying back on a beach in Phu Quoc,
pho or their first bite of a banh xeo. But what
Vietnam is far from the modern commercial centre
Mui Ne, Nha Trang or Phan Thiet and sunning
sets Vietnam apart is the sheer variety of the
that more developed countries have grown into.
yourself silly while enjoying a good book.
cuisine. Each region of the country – down to
Mass tourism is only beginning to truly take hold.
each individual city – has its own signature dishes
The best the country has to offer is still often
and styles of cooking. Most of the best eats are
tucked away behind an alley or unlisted on Google.
undocumented – meaning you’ll be finding some
Markets coexist alongside megamalls and excellent
of your all-time favourite food around the corner
unknown eateries are around the corner from
in a sleepy alley.
international restaurants.
Boat life is stunning
The beaches are some of the best in Southeast Asia
Vietnam is real The one thing you will never find in Vietnam is perfection. Vietnam wears its scars on its sleeve. The people don’t pretend to be anything they’re not
Probably a memory that will last a lifetime is
and the country has no shame in showing its true colours: kind, curious, hard-working, stubborn, proud. Vietnam is real and this is mainly due to the hardships it had to go through – not least
floating down any number of rivers along the
Vietnam has 3,700 km of coastline, with beaches
of which is more than 1,000 years of invasions.
length of Vietnam and absorbing the idyllic peace
ranging from garbage-strewn and overcrowded
Some find Vietnam frustrating because the culture,
of local life. Whether it’s the mighty Mekong or
to stunning pockets of paradise. And there are
language and people are so unfamiliar. But many
a hyacinth-covered section of the Saigon River,
plenty of the latter. The waters are also great for
fall in love with these very things.
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Au Lac Do Brazil II HCM 25 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: (04) 3845 5224 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
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17
#iAMHCMC
Travel feature - September
by Patrick Gaveau
A Life Lived Well at Home and Abroad
Motivation to travel is often conducted by either push factors such as the reasons that drive us away from home and pull factors, which pull us towards a place.
of travellers have a relatively clear idea of what they want and expect – they are not travelling away from home. Their basic needs spring from the feeling of absence stumbled upon in their own environment. This scarcity is subjective. If they
These well known motives include escape from a perceived dreary environment, exploration and evaluation of self, relaxation, prestige, regression, enhancement of kin relationships and facilitation of social interaction; and two cultural motives: novelty and education. Due to the limited space allocated for my editorial, I will clarify only the most important motives. Travelling often offers freedom from work and obligations. It is an escape from our traditional lives and social roles. With travel we have the liberty to spend our time as we see fit. In this case, tourism reflects an escape from something, rather than a quest for something. The primary travel motive then, is leaving the home scene behind temporarily without being concerned about where
“While standing next to a 1,000-year-old building or hiking the great outdoors is cool and all, doing so probably won’t result in personal enlightenment.”
cannot satisfy this deficiency, they must then look elsewhere.
Some actually think that emptiness you feel inside can be filled with travel. You may distract
Specific desires one may want to fulfill are another
yourself with it, which can be good for your
primary travel motivator. It may be about tangible
health. But measuring your life by the number of
matters, such as a specific interest like a bird-
trips taken will often leave you feeling unsatisfied.
watching trip, a cultural interest or sports events.
Kilometres travelled will never mask your personal insecurities. Lasting happiness is a work in
Another example is medical tourism. The importance lies in the travelling and not in being a tourist. Participants do not alienate themselves from social status, and the idea of being in between two cultures does not play a part. Tourists know what they want.
“Some people may travel to stay in constant motion or run from their problems.”
progress that’s usually better rooted at home. I’ve met globe trekkers who seemingly squandered much of their time overseas and learned very little from the cultures they were exposed to. And I’ve met sophisticated, tolerant and sympathetic people who’ve rarely (if ever) left home. In other words, ignorance can still be well-travelled. While I’m a big advocate for using travel as a mental and physiological enabler, the work of overcoming ignorance still falls on us.
to go – but preferably to a nicer environment than
The positive effects of travel are well-documented,
what you experience during your daily grind.
including its ability to broaden our perspective,
I’m humbled by, grateful for and in awe of the
strengthen our relationships, help us appreciate
many places I’ve visited and intend to visit. But
A traveller’s needs and intentions can also stem
home and increase the number of experiences we
this gift can never compensate for negligence at
from an inner feeling of wanting to search for
encounter. Because of this, some people are tempted
home. As awesome as it is, traveling does not
something new, further fuelled by peripheral
to idealise, over-commercialise or overstate the
grant a free pass from taking care of our financial,
pull factors that promise just that. These kinds
benefits of changing geographies.
personal or familial duties.
18 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
by Jake Hornberger October - shopping FEATURE
#iAMHCMC
Saigon’s Wonderful Specialty Markets Ho Chi Minh City is a place with something spellbinding at every turn, including these awesome local markets.
oil and rubber. Even If you’re not there to purchase
Lantern Street (Luong Nhu Hoc, D5)
tires, and hand cranking bikes up and down to
anything, it’s worth a trip just to observe as the workers scurry around clanking tools, ripping off perform their hasty maintenance. This road is no stranger to hustling, so be sure to thoroughly check any products before you
Chinatown’s lantern street, which wraps around
buy them. For small repairs it’s a very accessible
the perimeter of a traditional Chinese temple, is
place to get your tire or tube changed, tighten
a visual spectacle. Photographers abound, and
your brakes, grease the chain or even have an old
beautiful women in Ao Dais pose among the
bike rebuilt.
kaleidoscopic displays of lanterns and hanging mobiles. Saigon’s most poignant lanterns are exhibited during the Mid-Autumn Festival within 15 days of the autumn equinox, during the month of September. You can spot skilled craftsmen hunkered down behind the stalls hand-making each item before putting them on display. There’s a wide range of styles and designs, and it’s hard not to feel a connection to some of Vietnam and China’s mutual cultural history while you take in the timeless shapes and patterns on this
experience. From old phones, typewriters and
Yersin Market (Nguyen Thai Binh & Yersin, D1)
phonographs, to massive Mandarin scrolls, boisterous elephant statues and bull-horned objects, this is an ideal place to get lost in Asian history.
Musical Instrument Street (Nguyen Thien Thuat, D3)
fun street.
Yersin Market is a dusty, scrapyard-style market hunkering behind a street full of small-scale industrial hardware outlets. After dodging scampering, shouting workers loading and unloading oversized packages into beat-up box trucks, you wind your way into the market housing an overwhelming number of items. If
Not only does this road offer a broad selection of
you’re looking to renovate your apartment, repair
musical instruments, it’s also a buzzing market area
an appliance, or acquire some power tools for
with mounds of delicious street food. It’s quickly
a project, Yersin Market sells everything from
evident that many of the shop owners here actually
electronics to hardware, camping gear, kitchenware
Just a quick wander from Ben Thanh Market is
handcraft each instrument on the spot. I was very
and a vast array of mechanical accessories. It also
another one of Saigon’s lesser known speciality
impressed with the craftsmanship of many of the
offers an extensive collection of war surplus gear,
strips. This one is laden with pan-Asian antique
products.
while providing a mostly hassle-free shopping
Antique Street (Le Cong Kieu, D1)
treasures. An astonishing amount of items are stacked deep into the back corners of the old concrete stores. Dusty floor-to-ceiling glass cases house endless heaps of ceramics and statuettes, heavy copper and brass Buddhist relics, clocks, gas lamps and religious medallions.
From traditional Vietnamese flutes and bamboo instruments, to mandolins, ukuleles, violins, harmonicas, stomp boxes, electric and bass guitars, the experience of watching your instrument being made right in front of you is charming. Whether you’re seeking Eastern or Western instruments, or
Be sure to meticulously inspect each potential
just accessories like monochromatic tuners, strings,
purchase as many items are counterfeit. In any
cables, capos or pickups, have a peek as you make
case, a slow stroll down this street is an enchanting
your way around the endless piles of guitars.
Bike Street (Bui Huu Nghia, Binh Thanh) Bike street is a frantic black market overflowing with any bicycle or motorbike accessory imaginable. Bits and pieces of all shapes and
experience.
An Dong Plaza (An Duong Vuong, D5) An Dong market in District 5 is home to Saigon’s elbow-to-elbow Chinatown market. In contrast to the aggressive selling methods of Ben Thanh Market, the retailers here are more interested in wholesale prices and prefer to sell in bulk. As a whole, you will find much more local-friendly prices than in the more tourist-dominated markets. If you’re interested in jewellery, particularly fine pearls, gold and silver, this is a much better shopping option. Quality cannot always be guaranteed, so shop with caution.
sizes dangle from the low ceilings as you cower
The authenticity of this market offers visitors a
through the overloaded strip that wafts of petrol,
true taste of Vietnamese-style market shopping. 19
#iAMHCMC
health feature - November
by Aleksandr Smechov
Toxic Food in Saigon Chemically-treated water spinach is in the news again. In September 2016, authorities discovered three households in HCMC’s Cu Chi District that had chemically treated 1.5 tonnes of spinach with green dye, usually reserved for colouring cloth. Again, in November 2016, another establishment was found dying the popular Vietnamese side dish, this time in Dong Nai Province. Around 100 kg of raw water spinach was found beside a basin with green dye. The chemical was bought at the Kim Bien market in District 5, which sells artificial flavouring and dyes for food. Here is an exceprt from vietnamnet.vn about Kim Bien:
“Chemical sellers at the market advertise a kind of white powder, priced VND80,000 ($4) per gram, saying that only one spoon is enough to make a pot of 100 litres of water have the flavour of beef. Using this unknown substance, restaurants don’t have to simmer cow bones to have sweet beef broth.”
strips. This one is laden with pan-Asian antique
genetics, pollution and diet. Unsafe food accounts
treasures. An astonishing amount of items are
for 35% of cancer cases in the country.
stacked deep into the back corners of the old concrete stores. Dusty floor-to-ceiling glass cases house endless heaps of ceramics and statuettes, heavy copper and brass Buddhist relics, clocks, gas lamps and religious medallions. Food chemical problems are not limited to dyes and preservatives: the Treatment Department of
From the same article, an expert source says
the Ministry of Health relayed that in the first
that the “unknown powder” may be sodium
half of 2011, there were 3,000 cases of pesticide
metabisulfite, a food and cosmetic preservative
poisoning, with over 100 deaths. According
that is also used as an industrial bleaching agent.
to Professor Nguyen Vinh Truong of the Hue
Annually, Vietnamese spend $1.16 billion treating just six types of cancer, according to Tran Van Tuan, director of the Institute for Research on Cancer Prevention and Treatment. Dang Huy Quoc Thinh, deputy director of the Ho Chi Minh City Oncology Hospital, said that:
that over 9 tonnes of salbutamol was imported
“The uncontrollable issue of food hygiene in Vietnam, including food containing toxic chemicals which will affect health for generations, will not only cause cancer but many other diseases. In recent years, the problem of foods containing toxins or carcinogens has been raised in the mass media, but the issue is still not under control. Such types of food are sourced from rotting meat dipped into toxic chemicals to make it look and feel fresh.”
into Vietnam in 2015; of this, 10 kg were used
Shortsighted gains have created a habit of cutting
properly, while a majority was used in pig farming
costs at the expense of health. While cancer rates
to create lean meat. The substance, used to open
rise, food hygiene, additive awareness and less
Just a quick wander from Ben Thanh Market is
air passages in the lungs of asthma patients, is
reliance on pesticides are slow to catch up. It does
another one of Saigon’s lesser known speciality
bought by many companies for VND2 million/kg,
not help that cancer patients are having difficulty
and eventually sold to farmers for around VND8
paying for their treatment: out of 1,200 cancer
million/kg, according to a C49 officer.
patients from Bach Mai Hospital and K Hospital
Here is another excerpt:
University of Agriculture and Forestry, “the country’s total importation of chemicals used for
“Just five minutes after being soaked [in a] solution, the skin of dead chickens will turn yellow like fresh chicken. Many people come here to buy this chemical for only VND250,000 per litre, a trader said…. [traders] also introduced buyers to chemicals to process different kinds of food, to make fresh food from poor quality materials.”
plant protection in 2013 was 5,000 times over that in 1994.” Pham Manh Thong, Head of Unit 5, Environmental Crime Prevention Department (C49) of the Ministry of Public Security, released information
While toxic food additives and harmful pesticides are financially convenient, in the long run they look to be quite deadly. Vietnam had 126,307 cases of
20 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
in Hanoi, 22% said they were having difficulties paying the hospital fees during the first year of cancer treatment.
cancer in 2010 – a number that is expected to rise
Out of the 560 who said they did not have any
to 190,000 in 2020. Dr. Nguyen Ba Duc, Deputy
financial difficulties in the first 12 months, 41%
Chairman of the Vietnam Cancer Association,
said they began to face economic hardship after
gave three factors that cause cancer in Vietnam:
the first year.
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#iAMHCMC
MEET THE EXPERT
by Aleksandr Smechov
Chef Lorraine on HCMC’s Culinary Scene What do you find wrong about Ho Chi Minh
always check up on what they’re doing, because
City’s culinary scene?
they change small things little by little.
People are afraid to think outside the box. For example, I recently gave a chef of mine a list of 20 fish to use on the menu and he chose one, because that’s the only one he knew. They don’t ask
The government is strict for 5-star hotels, so generally it’s fine in this sector. Hygiene is pretty
What is your opinion on fusion food?
up there in high-end hotels. The government is also
Fusion is confusion. A problem with fusion cuisine
stepping up in their regulations, because they want
is that you have a nice piece of meat, or fish, and
people in the country, as opposed to never coming
then throw a bunch of sauces and spices on it,
again. Bad hygiene isn’t as acceptable anymore.
and you can’t taste the original element anymore.
than show others that they don’t know something. This is not as common in other countries I’ve worked in. People have talent here, but it just needs to be brought out of them; they’re too comfortable being complacent. What do you think of the hygiene problem here?
Twenty-five years in top kitchens across Europe, Asia and the Middle East have shaped her into a tough, passionate chef who knows no bounds. She held eight executive chef positions before her trip to Vietnam – recently in Dubai, Istanbul, Hong Kong and Seoul. In Hong Kong, two restaurants under Chef Lorraine’s direction received Michelin stars. In Dubai, she received the BBC Good Food
wine and food. But they’re very fast learners.
“I try not to look at it in terms of where’s my favourite place to work, but rather the teams that I’ve been able to work with. In Korea I had a fantastic staff and some really amazing produce to work with, while in Dubai, my team members came from a whole range of backgrounds, which helped us learn about each other’s respective culinary traditions.” – Chef Lorraine
questions; they would rather just hide in the corner
Chef Lorraine Sinclair is the Culinary Director at Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers.
They also still have difficulty pairing items, like
Tasting the original produce is the most important What is your experience training new staff?
thing in a dish.
The older generation is the one who never travelled. Now you have younger people travelling
What about local food?
and bringing their experiences. Younger staff are
Local chicken has no flavour, and a local tomato
very eager to learn, and they’re keen on using
doesn’t taste like a tomato. Some of the local fruits
the latest equipment, but when you’re training
are nice. But there are many fluctuations in price,
them you have to keep up the momentum and
there’s no consistency between seasons.
award, Time Out’s Best Steak House and placed 3rd in Best Restaurants in 2013 by Esquire.
“Travel opens your mind to different possibilities and allows you to consider that what may be considered a delicacy in one culture, doesn’t always translate into another. I’ve been fortunate to try really exotic ingredients, such as snake blood, and that’s really helped me to understand different culinary traditions and how to incorporate them into my cooking.” – Chef Lorraine She has a no-bullshit way of nudging a restaurant in the right direction, stemming from her twoand-a-half decades of intense kitchen experience. We recently sat down with Chef Lorraine to discuss the culinary scene in Ho Chi Minh City. 22 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
Saigon Café Restaurant
ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
The New Saigon Café Restaurant Action (Show Area): This will be a general grill area, with a plethora of food cooked in front of guests in entertaining ways. Teppanyaki: This is not your typical teppanyaki grill. In fact, there is no grill at all: the metal plate common to the style is refrigerated, and on it chefs will mix homemade ice cream. Flavours will follow Chef Lorraine’s predominantlyBritish selection of homemade ice creams (think rhubarb and custard) already available in the hotel’s other venues. Guests will be at liberty to mix flavours to create their own. With around 35 individual flavours overall, this will make for sheratonsaigon.com | +84 8 3827 2828 | Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1
The first buffet of its kind in Ho Chi Minh City, Saigon Café Restaurant is being headed by Sheraton Saigon’s iron-fisted Culinary Director, Chef Lorraine Sinclair, in what is to be a fascinating display of live kitchens, customer interaction and open design.
Dong Khoi, giving diners a great vantage point for people-watching. The main area will be smartly laid out in a spacious, sleek setting designed to make you feel like you’re on a culinary journey,
many interesting creations. Desserts (Show Area): The dessert show area is an entire station that displays a delicious selection of professionally made desserts.
exploring the world’s cuisines.
Sunday (Adult) Brunch
Sensational Stations
This brunch is aimed more at the older crowd, as evidenced by the syringe shots of alcohol
Chef Lorraine has decided to go full-out on Sheraton Saigon’s brand new eatery. Seven live stations, which will include four show areas, will
Saigon Café Restaurant will have the following stations.
available as soon as you walk in. There will be some simple molecular cuisine, like mojito bubbles. These are made by dropping flavoured liquid into
be spread over a large, open space overlooking
Robatayaki: This Japanese station will have all
sodium alginate (extracted from brown seaweed),
Dong Khoi.
sorts of seafood and vegetables slow-grilled over
producing spheres that pop inside the guest’s
hot charcoals.
mouth, bursting forth a unique flavour.
Nothing to Hide
Noodle: With selections from all over Vietnam, all sorts of delicious regional noodle soups will
Most of the cooking will be done in full view
be available, as well as some quintessential soups
of the guests, with much theatre and interaction.
from around Asia.
Restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City are starting to embrace the concept of open kitchens, which forces chefs to place emphasis on hygiene and show. Some buffets do have live stations (usually for eggs, or frying raw meat and seafood), but Saigon Café Restaurant will ensure everything is out in the open, freshly cooked and regularly replenished. Chef Lorraine strictly emphasises consistency to ensure food quality doesn’t vary on a daily basis, something she found in many of the city’s restaurants.
The brunches are modelled after the enormous affairs popular in the Middle East, where they can last for three or more hours.
Getting Kids to Eat Healthily
Vietnamese-Indian (Show Area): A large tandoor grill will take centre stage, with chefs baking naan, various curries and skewers of meat, fish and vegetables. The station will also include Vietnamese and Brazilian dishes. Tandoor sticks with succulent food will be brought out from the oven and carried directly to guests’ tables.
Getting kids to eat healthily at a buffet is not an easy task. Large, intimidating portions of bizarre foods usually lead children to opt for a burger and fries instead, with some ice cream or cake (usually plus cake!) as a finisher. Chef Lorraine has made sure Saigon Café
Pan-Asian (Show Area): The selection here will
Restaurant’s kids corner has manageable portions
span Asia: Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Thai and
of tasty yet healthy food that kids will be up for
Singaporean dishes are all available. Sushi will
trying, such as fun salads in small bowls, along
be made fresh, with some creative additions
with the usual fare of fries and quick snacks that
that add a Vietnamese flavour to some popular
kids love.
There will be a long group table by the window,
rolls. Guests can also indulge in some sukiyaki
along with more intimate seating, overlooking
(Japanese hot pot).
Saigon Café Restaurant is set to open this month. 23
#iAMHCMC
MEET THE EXPERT
by Patrick Gaveau
A Successful Restaurant recipe – the Asif Mehrudeen way How is staff retention at San Fu Lou and Sorae?
Does Vietnamese food have potential as an
About 18-20% turnover, which is quite low for
international cuisine?
Vietnam. No one gets bored. If someone wants to
I think Vietnamese food is the new Thai, and
get training in another area, they will be allocated
maybe in the next five years it will be bigger than
time after work. It’s almost like we run a mini
Thai food. PepsiCo owns a chain of banh mi shops
hospitality school. Capella offers stability and a
in America already. Vietnamese food has a rich set
growth plan, so they stay. We have plans to open
of flavours, with so many regional variations. Thai
two more San Fu Lou restaurants and we don’t
food, in comparison, is pretty simple.
have to hire that many people, since we can take from our pool of candidates and current employees.
Do locals have any resistance to new cuisines? The Vietnamese still need their home country
Soon after wrapping up his career as an executive chef, Asif has now become one of the city’s most prominent restaurant developers. He has recently brought his third successful concept to life in Ho Chi Minh City: Di Mai Restaurant.
What are challenges for restaurant developers here?
food every day – their rice and their banh mis.
Location is quite a challenge. Keeping staff in line
But locals are very open to trying something
is fine as long as the managers are up to speed
new. Just look at all the steakhouses that have
with what you’re trying to do. Getting the food
opened: people are looking for a good piece of
and hygiene right is difficult. Open kitchens do
beef. Office workers want to have fun during
help public perception though, as they show the
lunch, try something new. There is a demand for
market that you’re not afraid to show what you
new cuisines.
do behind the scenes. Asif has over 20 years of experience in F&B
Do you think prices for food are higher today?
outlets, including world-class resorts and high-end
How is the restaurant market here evolving?
Yes, because operators are looking for a different
restaurants. He has toiled in kitchens in Australia,
I think we’re in a restaurant bubble now. Probably
market. Vietnam, after all, has the fastest growing
Japan, Bali and India, eventually landing in Ho
60% of operators will not survive when that
middle class in Southeast Asia. Vietnamese are
Chi Minh City. Finishing a stint as the executive
bubble pops. It’s become a status symbol to own
starting to travel and get used to the prices in
chef at Park Hyatt Saigon, he created D1
a restaurant, so anyone with money can start
more expensive countries. They are also curious
Concepts, an F&B concept and management
something they think will work. The success
about new cuisine, so they won’t mind paying
company.
stories, such as the Racha Room guys, were F&B
for a chicken from France if it costs more than
professionals, restaurant managers, bartenders
a local one.
There, he went on to conceptualise San Fu Lou and Sorae, which are now some of the city’s most well-known restaurants. We sat down with Asif to discuss the restaurant scene in Ho Chi Minh City. How have restaurants here evolved? Design, quality and service are finally starting to matter when creating a new restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City, but this is still not prevalent. For example, with San Fu Lou, it took time to catch on. For the Vietnamese, it looked too sexy, so they thought it was probably expensive. Slowly they began to see it was reasonable. Now 80-90% of the customers are locals. How do you ensure quality service at the restaurants you help create? We hire young staff, 18-25 years old, since they are easier to train. Older, qualified staff are more difficult, while new recruits are hungry to learn. 24 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
before. They understand the business. What are your favourite restaurants in the city? How do you ensure hygiene is kept up?
The guys at Stoker are doing a really good job.
I gave suppliers a hard time in the past [laughs].
The experience there is really personalised. For
You have to be serious about the freshness of
Vietnamese food, Pho Le on 413-415 Nguyen Trai
your food.
is my favourite.
by Aleksandr Smechov REVIEW
#iAMHCMC
Di Mai Restaurant Di Mai is not what you would expect from a typical Vietnamese restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City: a sleek ambience, high-quality Vietnamese street food and great prices. Most eateries fall under three categories – rural or colonial-inspired, high priced; mass chain, midrange; local corner eatery, budget – but Di Mai is in a category of its own: traditional Vietnamese street food in a sleek, modern environment. Di Mai’s creators, Capella D1, took the same approach they did with Sorae and San Fu Lou: smooth surfaces, dark, vibrant colours and excellent food. They also took a page from San Fu Lou and set reasonable prices.
Ambience
Service
Cha Gio Vit (VND75,000 for four): These crispy duck spring rolls are not as oily as their budget
Staff are attentive and communicate well in English. Service and hygiene are important to the Di Mai team, and they take special care to ensure that both are kept up to international standards.
counterpart, and have a thin layer of dough that doesn’t distract from the duck and herbs. Com Gao Lut (VND20,000): Simple, tasty and healthy brown rice. Goes well with veggie dishes.
The chefs work fast and you don’t have to wait
Canh Bo Di Mai (VND95,000): This is similar
long to get your dishes. Everything comes neatly
to pho bo, but cleaner and without the noodles.
presented in quality dishware and silverware.
It comes in a medium-sized bowl that is perfect if you want a light breakfast or lunch. Similar to
Food & Drink
the original style of pho, there is a slight sourness as you sip the broth.
The colourful, photo-filled menu offers a choice
Mi Quang Ga (VND78,000): Chicken, quail eggs,
of six ice teas (similar to the ones in San Fu Lou),
shrimp and Hoi An chili make a wonderful bowl.
five fresh American-style healthy juices, eight teas
The shrimp are juicy, the broth slightly spicy and
from Teapins and five beers from around Vietnam.
full of flavour, and the side dish of veggies fresh.
The fresh juices in glass bottles are the highlight here, and are all made on the spot: Wondermelon,
Banh Gan: A common Vietnamese street cake, this is rarely seen in restaurants of this calibre. Delicious, professionally made, yet sticking to its
A replica of a mid-20th century truck is parked
with a refreshing watermelon-mint flavour, and
in the middle of the restaurant, with “Made in
Detox, a beet-infused cleanser, are excellent. Three
Vietnam” painted on one of its doors. The truck
house wines and a few cocktails round up the
is surrounded by sturdy wooden tables and
signature beverages. Portions and prices are small
Banh Khoai Mi: A tasty cassava and coconut cake
comfortable seating, and the truck itself seats a
enough to order several dishes at once. Normally
that is not overly sweet, great as a finisher after
group of six.
fatty dishes like mi quang and fried spring rolls
a hearty meal.
containing sparse oil and fat, allowing them to Black and patterned tiles line the floor, red tiles
highlight the excellent ingredients.
roots, it’s a good complement to an after-meal tea or coffee.
What Could Be Improved
hugging the large open kitchen, immaculate behind a sheet of glass. Black and red are the prominent tones, giving off a similar vibe to the Sorae and San Fu Lou interiors, with historical elements from 1920s to 1960s Saigon subtly infused alongside quality wood furnishing. Some tabletops sport
Here was our experience.
The excellent fresh juices still don’t have a
Bong Thien Ly Xao Toi (VND55,000): Vietnamese flowers stir-fried in light oil. A healthy starter and easy to finish.
takeaway option.
What People Say
newspaper ads from the era – a common practice
Heo Nuong La Lot (VND85,000): This is a slight
back then – and dishware commonly seen in rich
variation on the signature betel-leaf-wrapped street
While the restaurant had a shaky start, the clientele
Vietnamese households lines a wooden shelf in
food, with three spicy minced pork patties and
has increased ever since, and the reception is
the corner. It’s a smart setup.
three noodle rolls.
generally very positive.
136 - 138 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 | +84 8 3821 7786 | nhahangdimai.com | 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.
25
#iAMHCMC
ADVERTORIAL
Fanny Ice Cream World class ice cream maker Fanny has opened a prestigious new shop in the fashionable Thao Dien ward of District 2. The modern, newly built store is located in Tong
As for the product, Fanny ice creams are all made
Huu Dinh and features both air-conditioned
using 100% natural ingredients. No additives,
indoor comfort and an al fresco area to the front.
preservatives or artificial flavours are used.
Scenes of Paris decorate the walls of this great new family-oriented business. This will be the fourth Fanny Ice Cream store in Ho Chi Minh City, the others being the 20-year-old shop in Ton That Thiep, one in the Vincom Center and the third on Tran Hung Dao.
Additionally, the company sources only the highest quality of natural products. They scour the globe to bring the freshest, fullest natural flavours to their ice cream. In the range of over 40 flavours, fresh cream milk comes from New Zealand, the very finest vanilla is imported from Madagascar;
Frenchman Jean Marc Bruno trained at the world
world class chocolate from Belgium, premium
famous Parisian culinary school, Le Nôtre. More
green tea from Japan and super-rich yoghurt from
than 20 years ago he met Italian frozen desserts
Greece. Meanwhile, wonderful local fruits from
maker Gérard Taurin and together they launched
Vietnam are used, all 100% natural and of the
cream parlour. Think classic French fine dining and
their product in Vietnam. They realised that
finest quality.
you’ll get an idea of what will arrive on your plate.
Strict quality controls are applied to the
Fanny has a unique way of presenting its a la
manufacture and presentation at Fanny’s stores.
carte ice creams. Customers can choose interesting
This covers such things as taste, aroma and colour;
accompaniments alongside the ice cream. For
all aspects have to be perfect. The presentation in
example, fruit flavours may be accompanied with
particular is superb. This is not like any other ice
passion fruit juice or chunks of chocolate. They
Vietnamese fruit was perfectly suited to making high-class ice cream.
“The name Fanny came from the eponymous character in the Marcel Pagnol book and the later movie.”
facebook.com/FannyJointStockCompany/ | fanny.com.vn
have thought these combinations out well, perfectly balancing the ice cream and the accompaniments. The artistic way that these are then presented on the plate is a real head turner.
“Starbucks is a customer of theirs now, and offers Fanny ice cream in its Ho Chi Minh City venues.” It is worth stressing that this really is artisanal ice cream, wonderfully crafted and displayed. Fanny has made it its mission to prepare and present delicious five-star French ice creams to Vietnamese people. The food menu offers crepes and high quality coffee alongside local favourites like noodles, tortillas and dim sum all day long, with other affordable eats ranging from VND25,000 to VND69,000. Other specialities on offer include the wonderful ice cream and chocolate fondue, a huge hit with families. The drinks menu is incredibly creative. Ice cream sodas, coffees with ice cream (including Vietnamese “weasel” coffee), smoothies and ice cream milk shakes are all very popular.
Fanny’s store locations: 1. 29 - 31 Ton That Thiep, D1; 2. 6A Tran Hung Dao, D1; 3. B3-20, B3 Floor, Vincom Center, D1; 4. 29 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 26 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
Legendary Chocolatier “The scientific name for the tree from which chocolate comes is Theobroma cacao, meaning ‘food of the gods’.” Legendary Chocolatier’s target audience are young Vietnamese professionals and foreign tourists, who appreciate quality confectionary. However, teenagers are also starting to indulge in the sweets in increasing numbers. With prices ranging from VND18,000 to VND345,000, these excellent treats are accessible to all chocolate-lovers. Business customers include Sofitel, Lotte Legend, Song Be Golf and others in the hospitality
Chocolate has been brightening up people’s lives for almost 4,000 years. The prized cacao seeds from which it is made were even used as currency by the Aztecs. Chocolate was originally taken purely in drink form, and as with many quality food products, it was thought to have aphrodisiacal qualities. Upon its arrival in Europe in the 16th century, it was still only drank, although sugar or honey began to be added. Nowadays, of course, the most popular way to consume it is in confectionary form. It was the French who brought chocolate to Vietnam, planting cacao trees towards the end of the 19th century. It developed as a crop here in the 1990s, and today, cacao is cultivated in the Southeastern, Central Highlands and Southwestern regions of the country. There are some 54,000 acres taken up for cacao farms. Vietnam is producing about 5,000 tonnes per annum, a figure that experts believe will multiply by a factor of 10 over
new facility in District 12 in 2017 as the business continues to grow.
International School are also clients. In addition, the chocolates are also sold at the Saigon Post
Mrs. Hanh uses chocolate from beans grown in Ben
Office, the War Remnants museum and in shops
Tre. These are collected and processed by Puratos,
on Dong Khoi.
the Belgium-based, world-renowned chocolate manufacturer. They take care of the early stages of the process, while Legendary Chocolatier buys chocolate from them in block form and creates their delicious range of finely crafted confections.
“The manufacture of just one kilogram of chocolate requires almost 900 cacao beans.” Conscious of health issues, Mrs. Hanh proudly
Southern Airport Services Company (SASCO), which operates duty free stores at Tan Son Nhat International Airport, sells boxes of Legendary Chocolatier products to large numbers of tourists as they leave their holiday in Vietnam. The chocolate boxes are beautifully designed, each offering a colourful representation of one of Vietnam’s tourist destinations: Hanoi, Saigon, Hue, Danang, Sapa, Mekong Delta and Hoi An.
states that from beginning to end, all aspects of
Whatever the occasion, if you are looking for that
Legendary Chocolatier’s products use only fresh
special gift of high-quality Belgian-style chocolates
natural Vietnamese ingredients; this also assists
with a delightful Vietnamese twist, Legendary
other sustainable, homegrown businesses. Their
Chocolatier has a range of excellent flavours to
customers are about 60% foreigners and 40%
arouse your palate.
Vietnamese, though the local market is growing steadily.
the next decade. Whilst Europeans account for half
And so to the product. They have 30 different
the world’s chocolate consumption, the product is
flavours of chocolate, of which cashew, rum and
slowly gaining popularity in Asia as well.
ginger, coconut, banana, and peanut butter are the
“Chocolate’s aroma increases theta brain waves, which help us relax.”
industry. Bepharco in Ben Tre and the Australian
top sellers. Mrs. Hanh even buys fresh peanuts to make their own peanut butter. The use of these flavours is clever and nothing overpowers. The
Legendary Chocolatier, located in the centre of
subtle tastes that Legendary Chocolatier has
District 1, has been building a fine reputation
created are a joy; the spiced ones are sensational.
for superb quality chocolate since it opened for
At first it’s just the chocolate flavour that hits
business in 2015. The shop is small and homely
your tongue, but soon after lemongrass, ginger
and the staff are very welcoming. Owner, Mrs.
or chilli bursts through. It is apparent these are
Hong Hanh Bui and her dedicated staff of 20,
genuine products; there is no hint of anything other
hand-craft their beautiful chocolates from their
than Vietnam’s top quality natural ingredients.
workshop in Go Vap, sending over the finished
The black sesame and the rum and ginger were
products to her D1 shop. She hopes to build a
particularly outstanding.
Legendary Chocolatier | 46 Truong Dinh, D1 info@legendary.com.vn | +84 (0)8 6276 6588 | +84 9 0376 3767
27
#iAMHCMC
REVIEW
by Patrick Gaveau
Alma Oasis Long Hai
facebook.com/almaoasislonghai/ | almaoasislonghai.com | +84 6 4366 2222 | Domain Ky Van, Provincial 44, Long Hai Town, Long Hai Beach, Vung Tau
Not long ago, I was invited by Carmen Marienberg, a longtime friend and the general manager at Alma Oasis Long Hai, to spend a night at the resort.
I had known the place well for the past 10
features of the interior design was that many walls
years, back when it was named Anoasis Resort.
and corners in the room were rounded, good for
It changed over a year ago when the Serenity
Feng Shui. The lighting intensity was perfect,
Group took over management and completely
as I would expect it to be in such a place. The
redesigned the place, including the furnishings.
girls took control of the TV remote, finding the
This was my second visit to the new resort and
cartoons.
my first overnight stay.
The lights for the bathroom were difficult to locate
For me and my family the place was always good,
as they were behind the towels. After a shower, I
as Long Hai is the closest and best beach city near
felt the floor might get a bit too slippery. I was,
HCMC – a two-hour car ride max, and about 120
however, pleasantly surprised by a nice external
km. I departed from District 4 with my daughters
bathtub surrounded by bamboo and white cement
and a friend at 4 p.m. on Friday, and we arrived
walls. The shower and toilet were separated by
before 6 p.m. without any difficulties.
glass walls and a clever door system. After a long
The new front office was a nice surprise. We received a full brief about the resort and its many free activities. We had a free 90-minute spa
week, a long Friday and a good drive, I chose to fill the tub with hot water and enjoy a cold beer from the affordable mini bar.
journey the next day, a nice surprise. We were also
Unfortunately, I discovered that the water heater
offered a free morning bicycle tour to some of the
could not fill the whole tub with hot water and
main attractions nearby, and other fun activities
had to settle for a nice half-filled bath instead.
like dancing and Tai Chi.
Nothing terrible. The soap and shampoo both smelled nice.
A Surprising Accommodation
got ready for dinner. I slipped into the comfortable flip-flops that were provided (my daughters found pairs for themselves as well) and headed off.
Dinner by the Sea We moved on to My Oasis Restaurant by the sea, settling outside, next to the beach so that we could hear the waves crashing. What better way to start a Friday night! As we settled at our table, the children were given a wooden game of sorts, which turned out to be the kids menu. I had never seen anything like it and the kids loved it. The nine kids items on the menu sounded delicious. It took my daughters two minutes to settle on the bolognese and the fish, as well as the mini burger with fries. For us, we discovered an extensive menu with Vietnamese, Thai and Mediterranean specialities. Twelve kinds of starters ranged from VND80,000 to VND120,000, while 36 main courses ran between VND90,000 and VND250,000. I did not finish reading everything, settling rapidly for an inexpensive pad thai at VND140,000, all charges included. English was not yet fully grasped by the staff and meant that I had to use some of my
Refreshed, I crashed into bed. It was rather small
terrible Vietnamese. We ordered a bottle of rose
for such a category of hotel, and the mattress
wine, the only one available (there were plenty
We were then driven in a golf cart to our Garden
felt a little stiff compared with other resorts. No
of other wines), for VND450,000. I’m not keen
Terrace room, a simple yet attractive design. It
problem for me, as I like the stiffness. I opened
on rose, but my friend and Carmen, who joined
was cosy but spacious at 28 m2, modern yet with
my computer to check on missed work and was
us at the restaurant, enjoyed it. Soon after, we
traditional Vietnamese elements. One of the nice
happy to find Wi-Fi without a password. Later I
headed to bed.
28 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
REVIEW
Breakfast of Champions
#iAMHCMC
At 9:30 a.m. the music suddenly started. Because it was Sunday, I was expecting calm by the poolside.
The next morning, we woke up early and had breakfast around 6:30 a.m. The sun was rising over the ocean and it felt great to be at the restaurant while watching the sea. Even if everything wasn’t finished yet, serious improvements had been made since my last visit.
But after a minute or two I began to see staff dancing on the grass. I’d never seen hotel staff pumping the volume and dancing. I was invited, along with my girls, to join in and have some fun. We got into it and really enjoyed the experience. Afterwards, I lay on one of the large, shaded sofas
The breakfast was perfect, everything we needed
by the pool, opened up my computer and caught
to start a good day. They even had good espresso.
up on some work; the Wi-Fi signal was good. The
Later, I had a regular coffee which tasted good,
staff, in the meantime, played with the children.
nothing like the usual Robusta types we often get in some 3 or 4 star hotels in Vietnam. I was surprised to see that 12 kinds of tea were offered. The eight kinds of jam were similar to the ones you’d find in Six Senses properties, meaning great, with aromas and flavours difficult to find in Vietnam. As a Frenchman, I was a bit disappointed by the two bread choices: white or dark. The choice of eight cereals made up for this, however. Pastries were also on offer, including donuts, which are uncommon. Usual breakfast fare like eggs, bacon and salads were of good quality.
Morning Dances After breakfast, we decided it was time to go to the pool. We were delighted by the new swimming area here, which was very well thought out. There
For those who prefer fitness in a more conventional environment, there is a small fitness room opposite the spa, with a walker and multi-purpose machines.
There was was no pain or incorrect technique
There is also a Bliss Boutique shop at the top of
during the massage. Everything was done with
the hill from here that has all the accessories you
tact, and I was relieved of any stress thanks to
might require, including swimsuits, suntan lotion,
the skillful shiatsu. I even fell asleep for a while.
hats, sunglasses and more.
Inclusive Pampering After lunch a short nap, we were scheduled to go to the spa. We were welcomed in a spacious, open-air area, with private bungalows spread out around a pond filled with fish and lotus flowers. It was an inspiring environment, the music light, soft, and welcoming. They sat us down and explained the different menus.
was ample space for swimming and many areas
My friend and I chose “Spa Journey 2: Tale of the
around the sides. The water wasn’t too hot and
magic banyan tree”. We had a nice welcome drink
the pool wasn’t too deep, providing a safe feeling
and went into the modern sauna, and afterwards
for parents with children. Many of the cushioned
spent time in the steamroom. After half an hour
recliners were in the pool, in areas where the water
of heat, we went to get our 50-minute massage
was shallow.
in a room with two comfortable beds.
Our children were invited for a spa treatment, an unusual offer and perfect for parents. My daughters had a free hour-and-a-half of pampering. They had their nails trimmed and painted, their hair done, and had light therapy on their hands and feet. They never went to a spa before, and were surrounded by other children and loved every minute. It’s pleasing to know your children are well taken care of while you get pampered. Outside the kids club spa times, there is a kids club by the pool. Weekend activities include building sandcastles on the beach.
Unbeatable Value for the Money At the end of our stay, everything went smoothly at the checkout. When we consider the value of the resort, which offers modern amenities, wellpriced food, many inclusive activities and the possibility to visit the 11 attractions nearby for free, along with bicycle tours every morning, it is very worthwhile. Few hotels include such inclusive treatment, especially a free spa treatment for you and your kids. As an interesting aside, Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam, stayed at an art deco villa in the area. The villa is still perched on top of a hill with stunning views. Inside, the display retraces his life when he stayed in this part of Vietnam, and is well worth a visit. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday from 12:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Entry costs VND20,000. The terrace now serves as an outdoor cafe. 29
#iAMHCMC
ADVERTORIAL
Mangii Custom Made Shoes Customers can of course buy ready-made shoes and walk away with beautiful footwear in one day. It is, though, the custom-made collection that attracts most. The process is unique. Feet are measured and a drawing is made, then individual lasts are made from which the shoes are modelled. In fact, Mangii first makes a fitting shoe that customers can try on. The customer then says which part of the shoe, if any, is too tight or pinching and the shop adjusts the lasts and builds the real shoes. The customer then chooses the design and the leather that they want to use, and from this the process is completed. This normally takes about two weeks. Clients end up with shoes that are unique and fit perfectly. This has resulted in the large number of re-orders www.mangiishoes.com | info@mangiishoes.com | +84 9 6275 0066 | 7/9B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
It is not necessarily a well-known fact, but shoes are the most important articles of clothing that you will ever buy. Most people don’t realise that the health of your feet sets the tone for the health of the entire skeletal system and therefore your entire body. Wearing shoes that fit properly and support your feet is vitally important in order to avoid or alleviate many common foot problems; however, it goes further than that.
Great Looks Bad Back
high-class leather, cork for comfort and metal shanks for strength, the shop handcrafts footwear of incredible style and quality.
“The shoes are assembled completely by hand and crafted into exquisite designs.” All Mangii custom-made shoes are manufactured in Vietnam, close to the Cu Chi area of Ho Chi Minh City. Andy Nguyen, the owner, bought an existing factory with an already highly skilled workforce. For three years he persevered with the existing customers whilst maintaining his dream of producing the finest shoes imaginable. It took him
Many are tempted to simply wear shoes that they
three years to train staff to the standards that he
find aesthetically pleasing. Unfortunately, great-
demanded. Five years ago he achieved his goal and
looking footwear is more often than not the worst
opened up his first shop. Now firmly established,
choice for either proper foot function or overall
he has opened a second shop in Hanoi.
health. In addition, about 70% of us have one foot that is bigger than the other by half a size. From that we can assume that literally billions of people are walking around with one shoe that is the wrong size.
Handcrafted Footwear
Bespoke Every Step of the Way Mangii has an incredibly high percentage of repeat customers, and most of the clients come by word of mouth. The great beauty of the way they work here is that all patterns and measurements are
Vietnam is one of the largest exporters of shoes
kept, so even after people return to their homes,
in the world. This is a multi-billion dollar
wherever they may be, they can and do still order
industry that sees Vietnamese shoes being worn
online and receive their shoes by post. A string
in more than 40 countries. Standards are high,
of 5-star ratings on TripAdvisor has also helped
and Mangii has taken them even higher. Using
business growth immensely.
30 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
from people who stay exclusively with Mangii. Most of the clients are business people, though increasingly, young people are demanding highclass products.
“Half of Mangii’s customers are expats who, of course, often struggle to find shoes that even fit.” Mangii custom-made shoes are an excellent investment for anyone who cares about their health while at the same time, wishes to look stylish. They are not as expensive as one would expect, and certainly not as expensive as buying similar shoes in the West. Unique, stylish, affordable, made to measure, and right here in Ho Chi Minh City. What more could you want?
by Keith Hancock
SPORTS
#iAMHCMC
Sports Events in HCMC A very healthy sports scene has grown up over the years in Ho Chi Minh City with sports from around the world. The darts and pool leagues are very well supported
weekend, two top Vietnamese sides, FCFC and
with hundreds of players in venues across the
Nam An, go head to head. For exact fixture dates
city. Basketball is presented by Saigon Heat as a
and kick-off times, see sifl-vietnam.com.
spectator sport, and various courts are open for use by groups. Aussie rules football comes along in the form of the Vietnam Swans, who have a
Darts The Saigon International Darts league (SIDL) had 23 teams registered for the season that
Football
concluded in November. Teams need a minimum of six players and a maximum of 12. The format is two triple games, three doubles, six singles and
The Saigon International Football League has a variety of teams representing Japanese, French and British expats plus Vietnamese, many of whom have a mix of nationalities. The standard is high but it remains an amateur league with players coming from all walks of life. Many of the league’s games are now played at the sports facility by Chu Van An in Binh Thanh District. The season runs from late September to the end of April.
Local basketball heroes Saigon Heat have four games to look forward to in December. Their fixtures for the month see three home games and one away. They entertain the Singapore Slingers on the 3rd, Hong Kong Eastern Long on the 10th and the Westports Malaysia Dragons on the 17th. On the 23rd they travel to play Alab Pilipinas. The
strong following here. There’s plenty happening in a December that is packed with sports action.
Basketball
stadium is at the Canadian International School, Street 23, D7. You can call +84 8 5412 3456 for more info, or visit saigonheat.com/en.
Pool
a team game. A singles tournament started on 29 November, and has three sections for the men and one for the ladies; throughout the year there are various other tournaments. League games are played at various bars throughout Districts 1, 2 and 7. Many nationalities as well as local Vietnamese players are represented. A few years ago Patrick Hoy, one of the mainstays
The Saigon Pool League pits teams from many venues against each other throughout the city. There are 32 teams in four 8-ball leagues and nine teams in one 9-ball league. 9-ball matches take place every Monday and 8-ball on Thursdays. Four divisions offer various skill levels. Players meet up, socialise, network and play competitive but friendly pool. Most of the players are expats, although the league is open to all. Ability, nationality or gender are not issues. All are made welcome;
December sees the league reach its midway point
of darts in the city, started a Saigon darters social
with some intriguing fixtures in store. On the
Sunday, enabling darts players to get together,
Head over to the Saigon Pool League site
weekend of 3-4 December early league leaders
have a chat, drink and of course throw some
for details (saigonpoolleague.leaguerepublic.
Saigon Hotshots take on last year’s champions
darts. They meet at Game On on Ho Tung Mau,
com) or call Chris, the league organiser at
Sea (South East Asia) Collection. The following
in District 1. Everyone is welcome.
+84 12 0456 0263.
31
#iAMHCMC
hotch-potch
Horojoke
Don’t take yourself too seriously
Sagittarius Nov 23 - Dec 21
Gemini May 21 - June 21
It’s your Vietnamese Christmas, head
This month your feelings will be
to the market and learn to cook rice
tested. Every time your hand strays
like the locals. Nobody likes a Soggyttarius.
Holiday Quiz Test your christmas knowledge with our #iAMHCMC quiz. Answers at the bottom.
towards the horn think twice, is honking the best
1. In the song The Twelve Days of Christmas,
way to express yourself?
“...my true love sent to me nine…” what?
Capricorn Dec 22 - Jan 19
Cancer June 22 - July 22
a) Swans swimming
While your horns are a great way of
Rumour has it that this month will
b) Ladies dancing
defense under normal circumstances,
be great for business. Dry season is
c) Turtle doves
be careful not to entangle yourself in flashy LED
approaching and umbrellas are extremely cheap.
Christmas garlands.
Time to invest!
Aquarius Jan 20 - Feb 18
Leo July 23 - Aug 22
There’s a reason those pants won’t
While Saigon Zoo is giving away
fit. Time to slim down, leave those
tigers in exchange for other animals,
mince pies alone & nibble on some
lions are pretty safe for now. Try to keep up your
rice crackers.
smile, or you are next.
Pisces Feb 19 - March 20
Virgo Aug 23 - Sept 22
Lucky you! Thanks to Western
You’re all over the place. Time to
influence, many families eat turkey
take a break. Shut down that laptop,
at xmas. But after the holidays, it’s cold turkey
kick off your work shoes and get ready for a long,
time as fish takes over again.
peaceful snooze
2. What colour are the berries of the mistletoe plant? a) Purple
b) Blue
3. In which modern country is St. Nicholas’ birthplace and hometown? a) Turkey
b) Lapland
c) Ukraine
4. Who wrote How the Grinch Stole Christmas? a) Charles Dickens b) Dr. Seuss c) Walt Disney 5. What do children traditionally leave for Santa
Aries March 21 - April 19
Libra Sept 23 - Oct 23
Time to put the mmm back into your
Watch your intake of Christmas
mango. Stop with this ridiculous
biscuits and try to maintain a
‘salted fruit’ habit and just accept that fruit is
balanced diet. Balance is, like last month, Libra’s
b) Sherry and a mince pie
sweet by nature.
greatest concern.
c) Carrots and Cake
on Christmas Eve in the UK? a) Cookies and milk
Taurus April 20 - May 20
Scorpio Oct 24 - Nov 22
Don’t let the stress get to you this
Start thinking budget and make sure
holiday season. Grab yourself by the
your finances are in line. Stop taking
horns and enjoy some peace at the
taxis everywhere and invest in a bicycle, along with
b) Father Whitebeard
life insurance.
c) Sinterklaas
Christmas market next to Tan Dinh Church.
c) White
6. Which of these is not a name for Santa Claus? a) Pere Noel
7/30B Road 13, Binh Hoa Commune, Thuan An Town, Binh Duong Province, Viet Nam ( 30 min from city center ) Tel: (0650) 37 65 115 | www.gomo.com.vn Email: info@gomo.com.vn www.facebook.com/GOMOFURNITURE
HOME FURNITURE 1. b 2. c 3. a 4. b 5. b 6. b 32 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
by Jamie Gregory
EVENTS
#iAMHCMC
facebook.com/envyclubsaigon | 74-76 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia | Booking hotline: +84 9 0318 8969
Envy Club Grand Opening With the red carpet rolled out and ready to be graced by the heels of Saigon’s who’s-who, no torrential rain nor traffic mayhem stood in the way of the club’s grandiose opening. With the champagne and Chivas 18 flowing faster
What then followed can only be described as a
than the Mekong, the only thing that needed
mesmerising display of aerial silk acrobatics that
quenching was the crowd’s thirst to witness
had our gaze set firmly on the ceiling and our
the premiere performances of Envy’s in-house
jaws dropped unflatteringly to the floor. The grand
theatrical performers. In an immersive space
finale then began to bear down on us from above
that includes an elevated 12-metre-high ceiling,
(literally), as what we first thought to be a lighting
a state-of-the-art stage, light and sound system,
rig descended upon us, revealing its true nature
and a massive surrounding LED wall, Envy
as a suspended stage with a dance performance.
offers not only a supercharged club experience, but comprehensive turnkey event solutions to all clientele, including corporate.
Envy’s marketing director Mr. Vu mentioned during his opening speech that, “Envy wants to be Vietnam’s premiere nightlife venue and put Saigon
After placing ourselves front-and-centre in the
and Vietnam on the map with the other Asian
pulpit-type area next to the stage, our hearts
players like Hong Kong, Singapore and Bangkok.”
began thumping faster to the beat of the djembe drummers who had now encircled us.
“We can say that if the opening night and the nights that followed are anything to go by, it certainly won’t be long before this club will be as big as those in Hong Kong.”
CENTRE MÉDICAL INTERNATIONAL YOUR MULTIDISCIPLINARY CLINIC IN THE HEART OF HO CHI MINH CITY
1 Han Thuyen, District 1 Ho Chi Minh City 08 38 27 23 67 info@cmi-vietnam.com www.cmi-vietnam.com
It was only the day after the opening that a friend told me that there were dancers on the descending stage that were not visible from my vantage point in the pulpit. Keep in mind, with such a spectacular overhead show, you may end the evening needing a neck massage after gazing to the heavens for so long.
OUR SPECIALTIES General and tropical medicine Cardiology Psychology Psychiatry Psychomotor therapy Speech therapy
Paediatrics Gynaecology Osteopathy Acupuncture Child Birthing Classes Breastfeeding Support ENT
3 locations in Thao Dien, D2, HCMC 0903 957 316 - smartkids@smartkidsinfo.com www.smartkidsinfo.com / www.smartkids.edu.vn
33
#iAMHCMC
ADVERTORIAL
Rex Hotel Holiday Events The historic Rex Hotel overlooks Nguyen Hue walking street and is one of the most well-known and respected hotels in HCMC. A part of the city’s history for almost a century, the building began as an auto dealer and garage, and later re-established itself as a trading centre. Finally in 1961, it transformed into the beautiful hotel that is so beloved today. During the American War, the hotel’s rooftop bar became known around the world for the evening press conferences held by journalists there. They nicknamed these the Five O’Clock Follies, as a slight towards the optimistic briefings they
Free happy hour from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. It currently
flamenco band, a festive choir and talented DJs
has a promotion on all creative cocktails running
will be playing Christmas favourites throughout
until 20 December.
the party. Each ticket will cost VND2 million.
It really is an excellent place to go straight from work and watch the city change from day to night. With exciting drinks and food menus, it is equally suited as a spot for a romantic dinner for two. At 7:30 p.m. on Saturday nights, the band goes down to the ground floor and entertains the crowd on Nguyen Hue; passersby can pick up food and drink vouchers from hotel staff during the performance.
Rex Hotel’s Holiday Events
were handed by the U.S. commanders. The bar has maintained an enviable reputation as one
The warm ambience and low vantage of the Rex
of the city’s finest: in 1996, it was voted as one
Rooftop Garden Bar is the perfect place to enjoy
of the best bars in Southeast Asia by Newsweek
the festivities and get into the holiday mood. This
Magazine, and in 2010 listed as one of the world’s
is a cosy, intimate setting, whilst at the same time
30 best bars on CNNgo.com by journalist and
having plenty of room to let your hair down, dance
blogger Michelle Woo. Today, it is a delightful
and have fun. The Rex Hotel has two fabulous
space in which guests can relax and enjoy the
family-friendly events coming up, just perfect for
inventive cocktails
those who want to experience a great holiday party
The late-night Rex Rooftop Garden Bar is a wonderful sunset spot by day and a vibrant, exciting venue at night; the ambience becomes
in a luxurious, central location.
Christmas Dinner Party
more lively as superb bands entertain the crowd
This party will run from 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Welcome 2017 Gala Dinner Start the new year wining and dining in a truly luxurious setting. Kicking off the night with the hottest Latin melodies, Rex Hotel’s New Year’s Eve event will feature an endless supply of soft drinks, wine, beer and mineral water, as well as a celebratory champagne toast at the stroke of midnight. The gala dinner will include a fresh seafood buffet and delicious holiday dishes. Adult tickets cost VND3.6 million and children’s tickets are VND1.8 million. There will be a free ticket given out for groups of 10 or more, and if you book before 15 December, you will get 10% off.
Water Puppet Show In a major coup for The Rex Hotel, it will become the first 5-star hotel to host a traditional water puppet show and cultural performance. This will be set in the beautiful Vertical Garden. Guests will enjoy this important and entertaining part of Vietnam’s heritage amidst lush surroundings,
with live rock, flamenco, jazz and Latin music.
On 24 December, the Rex Rooftop Garden Bar
right in the centre of the hotel. Water puppetry
This is a superb venue for groups, parties, or
will host its glittering Christmas event, complete
originated in villages throughout the Red River
business people trying to get some work done in
with a gift-giving Santa and three exclusive main
Delta in North Vietnam in the 11th century, and
the early evening. The bar serves seven creative
dishes from which to choose, along with a salad
recounts the daily lives of rural Vietnamese and
cocktails and plenty of classics, with a Buy 1 Get 1
bar and side dishes. To add to the fun, a lively
the country’s folklore.
34 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
Lush: A Club For All Saigon’s hottest nightspot, Lush is offering superb corporate and private buyout packages to its customers. Fancy booking an entire nightclub for you and your friends?
The team at Lush is now reaching out to an even larger audience by expanding its “buyout” nights. Corporate clients in particular can take advantage of some great deals. Whether a party of 10 or a huge group of up to 900, you can book all or part of the venue for your special night out. Lush can accommodate all sizes of parties by either sectioning off part of the club, or indeed closing the entire venue for an evening. The hours can either be during the normal club opening times or special hours, catering for events like cocktail parties.
Luscious Treats facebook.com/lushsaigon | Phone: +84 8 3910 4199 | 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | 8 p.m. to late
If you are looking for a venue for your office
Upstairs, the balcony is the VIP area offering four
On the food menu, the club offers a good variety
party or have a group of friends in town and
couches and 12 more standing tables. This creates
of Vietnamese and international cuisine. Mi xao
wish to spend an exciting night with them,
a more easy-going space, from where guests can
bo, calamari, chicken wings, bo luc lac and big
Lush could be exactly what you are looking for.
enjoy watching the dancers whilst relaxing with
servings of fries are popular with guests, as is the
Attracting partygoers six days a week (it’s closed
a cocktail. Favourites are: the Lychee Martini, a
enormous “Luscious Fruit” platter.
on Mondays), Lush opens its doors at 8 p.m. and
superb Whiskey Chai Cocktail, and the signature
doesn’t close them until much, much later.
drink, the Lush Strawberry. To the rear there is a
While other city centre entertainment venues have come and gone, Lush has run continuously and successfully for 12 years. The club has a great mix of Vietnamese, Japanese, Korean and Western
Winter Wonderland
kind of chill-out area that is partially open-sided.
A Club for All
The Christmas season is almost upon us and for this, the club will transform itself into a winter wonderland. From 23 December, Lush will take
Lush is one of the few venues that many people
on a decidedly festive appearance both inside and
have heard of before they visit the city; word
out, and Santa and the elves will be in attendance.
spreads fast when a venue gets things right.
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day will see big
Backpackers love it, travellers and locals love it
party nights with lucky draw prizes hanging on the
and successful international CEOs love it. This
Christmas tree. Prizes will include gift certificates
The general manager, David Sosa, is also from
really is a venue for everyone. Lush has fun and
to local bars, restaurants, spas, gyms and other
Las Vegas. Together these guys run a tight ship
management emphasises that this is the most
city businesses.
and their professionalism is evident throughout
important concept of the venue. The dress code is
the venue.
very much casual, with just about anything except
New Year’s Eve will feature a huge party night, as
flip-flops and tank tops considered acceptable.
has become the pattern over the years.
regulars. I met up with Brian Sweet, director of marketing and special events, a New Yorker with 14 years of nightclub experience in Las Vegas, to discuss the latest happenings at the D1 nightspot.
A Medley of Fun Environments Through the main entrance, guests enter to the side of a front room which plays hip hop and can hold about 100 people. There is a separate bar with its own music system, enabling a different ambience to the rest of the venue. Delving further into the club, the main room is the dance room and features a central bar with the vibes coming in the form of EDM. There are seating areas with couches along the back, as well as standing tables.
35
My boyfriend is just like Santa Claus. He gives me presents and is imaginary.
The 4 stages of life: 1. You believe in Santa Claus 2. You don’t believe in Santa Claus
What do you call a kid who doesn’t believe in Santa? A rebel without a Claus.
3. You dress up as Santa Claus 4. You look like Santa Claus What’s the difference between snowmen and snowladies? Snowballs.
Why is Christmas just like your job? You do all the work and the fat guy with the suit gets all the credit.
What do you call cutting down a Christmas tree? Christmas Chopping.
What does Santa suffer from if he gets stuck in a chimney? Claustrophobia!
WE WISH YOU A
Merry Christmas and
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2017