By Locals, for Locals
January 2017
#iAMHCMC
EDITORIAL & NEWS
Surgery Now Aided by Robots #iAMHCMC
By Locals, For Locals
Editorial Entertainment might seem like a frivolous subject, an activity done simply to fill the spaces of boredom. Rarely is entertainment regarded as art by the public – maybe only when a really good flick comes by and captivates
TABLE OF CONTENT Editorial & News 3. December News Recap
Entertainment Features 4. What to Expect in 2017
audiences. But even the “lowliest” forms of
6. Discover Your Inner Animal
entertainment, like sitting on a tiny plastic
8. Watch Out, Tet is Coming!
stool on Bui Vien and sipping a corn-based
9. How Do You Cock - A - Doodle - Do?
lager, can bring about a transcendental element that you can’t even get with the
10. Goodbye Traffic, Hello Tet!
Mona Lisa: human interaction. And an
12. Best Family Activities in the City
addendum to this: variety.
14. Get Active in the City
The conversation you have with the
16. Outstanding Casinos in and
mustached gentleman sitting in a refined whiskey bar will be wholly different than
around Ho Chi Minh City
the throat-scouring conversation you have
18. Game Day in Saigon
with the party girl at a lased-doused
19. May I Have This Dance?
nightclub at 2 a.m. The time you spend
20. Feel the Beat: Your Live Music Guide
with your family at a water park will bring about loving memories, as will your first perfect salsa dance.
22. Pick Your Poison: A Guide to HCMC’s
used to assist in surgeries in Vietnam. One of the first recipients was a 64-year-old woman facing obstruction of the flow of urine. Her surgery took place at the Binh Dan Hospital in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 3. The head of Binh Dan Hospital, Dr. Tran Vinh Hung, said that robots reduce invasiveness, bleeding and, ultimately, the risk of fatality. So far, medical robots have assisted with surgeries of cancers to the stomach, colon, liver, pancreas, lung and prostate, along with surgeries related to eight other diseases.
Vietnam Plans to Sell Saigon Beer Company Stock
Speciality Bar Scene
Entertainment brings us together, brings
26. Saigon Nightclub Mix
friends and family together, brings new
28. Live the Adventure:
faces into our lives, gives us opportunities
December marked the first time robots were
A New Way to Play in the City
to love, to do business, to reconnect with former mates, to unwind after work, or to bring an eventful day to a sweet and satisfying finish. #iAMHCMC prides itself in being a paper that brings great businesses together with this city’s great residents, and there’s no better way than an issue on entertainment. Whether you’re a beer club guy or a gin gal, a sports fan or sommelier-in-training, you’ll find something right for you in this issue.
FOOD review 11. Upper Saigon 30. A Dinner with Culinary Masters
ADVERTORIAL 29. Pexiga Viet Vape: A Vaper’s Haven in HCMC
Education feature 32. Soul Man: Mark Bell Fine-Tunes Saigon’s Music Classes
Cheers!
Health Feature 33. Unraveling Vietnam’s Health Myths
Travel REVIEW Have feedback? Contact me at iamhcmc@yahoo.com
34. Novotel Phu Quoc Resort
Vietnam’s government is making plans to sell a large portion of the country’s largest beer company, the Saigon Beer Alcohol Beverage Corporation, or Sabeco. The company, reportedly worth at least $1.8 billion, will potentially be the largest privatisation sale of a Vietnamese state-run firm. The sale is marked as a further push in Vietnam’s effort to open its doors to foreign investment. Phan Dang Tuat, the head of Vietnam’s Ministry of Industry and Trade’s Enterprise Reform Commission, reports that the government could sell at least 40% of the company’s stock. Sabeco produces well-known Vietnamese beers like 333 and Saigon Beer, which control up to 40% of the
No part of this publication may be re-produced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.
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country’s beer market.
EDITORIAL & NEWS
#iAMHCMC
December News Recap Major Changes to Occur in the Coffee Industry
Vietnam’s coffee industry will undergo major
for sea water quality. The tests have been funded
restructuring in the coming years, according to
by Formosa, which reportedly gave $500 million
the Vietnam Coffee and Cocoa Association. The
to the Vietnamese government after the incident.
goal will be to increase coffee production 30-40% by 2030, which will ultimately make $5-6 billion for the industry. Right now, coffee accounts for 15-20% of the country’s annual agricultural
Ho Chi Minh City Experiences Growth in 2016, Sets Plans for 2017
exports, generating up to $1.8 billion a year and
heart attack, stroke or a brain injury, that person is eligible for a tax reduction or exemption. The
Department of Processing and Trade for Agro-
problem for many people, however, is that the
Forestry-Fisheries Products and Salt Production,
relief cannot exceed the income tax the person has
reported that there are plans to improve the scale
paid the year he or she started treatment. The Ho Chi Minh City People’s Council met this December to review the changes implemented in the city’s infrastructure. Saigon experienced 8.05% economic growth, which is 1.28 times the growth of Vietnam’s total GDP. Additionally, total revenues for 2016 are expected to reach VND304
in which many dead fish washed onto the shores of provinces located near large fishing grounds, the
For many, this means that their tax compensation is much less than the cost of their treatment. Many are calling for reforms, petitioning for less paperwork and benefits equal to the amount they’ve paid for treatment in subsequent years.
trillion, a 10.8% increase on the revenues reported in 2015.
After what has been called the “Formosa Incident”,
current illness exemption and reduction procedures
the means to earn a livelihood, including cancer,
Doan Xuan Hoa, the Deputy Director of the
Beach Towns to Hold Regular Water Testing after Formosa Incident
the burden of their illnesses, complaining that the
from one of 42 listed diseases or ailments affecting
However, there’s still major room for improvement.
processing technologies.
for sick pay are not doing enough to alleviate
Vietnam’s current tax plan, if a taxpayer suffers
in the world.
quality control procedures, and generate updated
Taxpayers say that current rules and regulations
are insufficient and needlessly complicated. Under
making Vietnam the second-largest coffee exporter
of production, replace ageing coffee trees, fix poor
Taxpayers Fight to Change Compensation for Illnesses
While these numbers are positive, the People’s
Rent-A-Toy the New Big Thing
Council did not achieve all the goals it set for 2016. Chairwoman Nguyen Thi Quyet Tam admits that
The newest rage among parents in Saigon is renting
Saigon’s congested traffic, flooding, food safety
toys. A number of toy rental shops have opened,
concerns, disease outbreaks and robberies are still
offering affordable prices for the newest kids’
major issues. Targets for 2017 include: economic
entertainments. Rentable goods include slides,
growth of 8.4-8.7%; establishment of 50,000
swings, baseball sets and electric cars, with a
companies in the city; a reduction of the poverty
range of toys depending on the child’s age and
rate to below 1.2%; the creation of 125,000 jobs;
capabilities. Rentals are generally weekly, although
the construction of eight million m2 of public
longer rentals are possible, and prices range from
The monitoring will take place on 19 beaches
housing; an increase of clean, drinkable water
VND60,000 to VND5 million. Kindergartens,
across the listed provinces. So far, all tests have
available to more citizens; and the treatment of
charity organisations and families hosting large
shown toxicity levels within Vietnam’s legal limits
100% of the city’s medical wastes.
get-togethers are also using the rental shops.
Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment has asked that the affected provinces produce regular water toxicity reports every two weeks. The test results, which will come from Ha Tinh, Quang Binh, Quang Tri and Hue provinces, will be made public on the ministry’s website and through other country-wide media sources.
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#iAMHCMC
THE YEAR AHEAD
by Various Experts
What to Expect in 2017 Dr. Tran Thi Thuy Duong, a lecturer at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Law, says not as much as we think. She reminds us that in 2016, the TPP was one of the top four ways for Vietnam to integrate into the world trade system, the other three being the EVFTA (Europe-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement), the VN-EAEU FTA (Vietnam-Eurasia Free Trade Agreement), and the AEC (ASEAN Economic Community). Although the TPP door is shut, others are still left wide open. For example, there’s still the BTA (bilateral trade agreement) between Vietnam and the United States and more than 10 other FTAs that Vietnam signed or will sign with other partners (as a country or as a member of ASEAN), along with over 60 BITs (bilateral investment treaties) established with many countries around the world.
What is in store for Vietnam, and particularly Ho Chi Minh City, in 2017? We track the city’s top experts in a number of industries to find out what you can expect from this ever-changing place we call home.
Education
Law
hired hundreds of teachers and has helped lead
Stephen Thomas, the head of HR at VUS, has
Next, the labour code will favour enterprises
the school to its dominant position in the market,
employing above-average numbers of female
with 45,000 students attending the English
ANT Lawyers, an internationally recognised law
staff. Finally, those with a post-secondary level
Centre’s classes. He had a sobering message about
firm with offices throughout Vietnam, noted some
of education will have a minimum wage of VND3
future of English education in 2017:
important changes for 2017:
million per month, up from VND2.8 million.
“The strong will only get stronger.” Social Insurance Laws
Visa Laws
New fathers will have a chance to spend time with
The new year will see the online centralisation of
their partners after childbirth, with five days given
the visa process. The e-visas will take three days
off from work if their wife gives birth normally
to process and be for valid for 30 days, but will
and seven if the birth requires surgery.
only be available for countries with diplomatic
These days double if she gives birth to twins. Surrogate mothers get a maximum of six months of maternity leave, and the receiving mother gets six months as well once the baby is given to her. If the newborn is under two months and passes
relations with Vietnam.
If the mother dies, the father will fill maternity leave for her.
Labor Codes
others invest more capital and improve their educational technology, the weaker players – the small and even medium-sized schools – will die out. Or, at least, in Stephen’s words, the growth of
There will be no need for any invitation letters as
these businesses will be highly uneven. For
required before, easing the burden on travellers.
teachers, more jobs will be available in the upcoming year than ever before. However, the
International Trade
away, the father will be given four months off, and half that if the baby is above two months.
As giants like VUS, Wall Street English, ILA and
People expected the ratification of the TPP to
requirements will be stricter, as many schools are now starting to look down on online teaching certifications.
lead to a rise in exportation of Vietnamese goods,
Those with the right qualifications – meaning a
especially garments and shoes.
four-year undergraduate degree and an in-class
It was also thought to potentially help Vietnam
certification – will find plenty of opportunities, even without years of experience.
Several changes will occur in 2017 that will affect
attract more foreign direct investment from TPP as
the labour force. First, retirement age will increase
well as non-TPP countries. So what will Vietnam
Gone are the days when simply speaking English
from 55 to 58 for women, and 60 to 62 for men.
lose now that the agreement has been dismissed?
got you a job.
4 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
THE YEAR AHEAD
#iAMHCMC
Healthcare
Transportation
Food
President of Victoria Healthcare Vietnam Dr. Mason
We got in touch with Clement, a researcher at
We spoke with Giovanni Parrella, the Executive
Cobb gave us his thoughts on what will go down
PADDI, a French-based urban development center
Chef of the Reverie Saigon, to pick his brain about
in the healthcare industry in Ho Chi Minh City in
in Ho Chi Minh City. PADDI works closely with
what the next year would mean for Vietnam’s
2017. He gave us two perspectives:“fortunately”,
the local government to help projects related to
culinary scene. He had one word for us: organic.
and “unfortunately”.
transportation and infrastructure. Clement had
He’s already seen the start of the trend this year,
some interesting predictions for 2017. He told us
and he only expects it to increase in the coming
that for the immediate future, it’s just small-scale
months. Both at home and in his restaurant, he’s
operations.
noticed clients from Vietnam and other countries
“Fortunately, the powers that be are more aware of the private sector being indispensable to meet rising healthcare needs, and there is increasing awareness of the need for private clinics to succeed as businesses. Unfortunately, the corruption is likely to continue, impeding sustained growth. Fortunately, there will be more investment in healthcare, which will bring about more quality, better service and accessibility. Unfortunately, the public sector may not improve much, due to restraints on public investment and continuing overcrowding.
Completions will include the Pham Van Dong road near the airport and the road system along the Thu Thiem peninsula.
While Chef Parrella is perfectly happy to give his customers the best organic foods he can find, his only worry is authenticity. Based on what he
As for more game-changing projects such as the
knows about the farming practices in Vietnam, he’s
ongoing improvement to the BRT (Bus Rapid
not sure he’ll be able to trust that what’s labelled
Transit) and the metro, these will be making big
“organic” in a store or at a market actually came
strides in 2017.
from an organic source. So far, however, he’s been
Unfortunately, no metro lines will open in 2017,
Unfortunately, private hospitals will still be at
but the above-ground support structure should
excess capacity, but fortunately the trend toward
be finished 2018/2019, so we’ll see veritable
using them will continue. We will see more clinics
progress this year. Elevated roads will also likely
open and existing ones improve, but perhaps
begin construction – these will be similar to those
slowly. Overall, private clinics and hospitals will
already in Hanoi.
continue to improve, offering good alternatives
clamouring for more organic options.
pleased with the availability. For his diners at R&J, he prefers to source his organic ingredients from a grower in Da Lat. He suspects that choice and availability will only increase in the near future. Along with this proclivity for organic food comes another, larger food trend: an interest in healthy foods. He told us that he’s noticed people
One big drawback of the improved road system
nowadays are much more aware of the potential
will be the increase in the number of cars, which
harm toxins and artificial ingredients can do to
of course ramps up pollution and congestion.
a person’s health. With many consumers making
Dr. Mason is currently preparing for the Q1 2017
While extended roadways and new paths are
a push towards healthy grains and well-sourced
opening of the new Victoria Healthcare clinic at
temporary patches, a complete metro system will
meats, Parrella is confident that the market will
20-22 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1.
vastly improve the suffocating traffic.
respond by giving the customer what it wants.
to state hospitals for better service and care... fortunately.”
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#iAMHCMC
The Year Ahead
by Keith Hancock
Discover Your Inner Animal by Joe Shlabotnik_zodiac
The 12 animals in the Chinese zodiac all have their individual traits and characteristics. Some are compatible with others, and some, less so. Find out the behaviour of your own sign.
Ox Element: Earth Compatible with: Snake and Rooster Traits: Strong, loyal, reliable, thorough,
Nobody knows which country started the animal zodiac, though the Chinese can certainly lay claim to being one of the first. The 12 symbols of the Chinese zodiac, which of course is the one used here in Vietnam, probably have their origins in the Han Dynasty, which ruled from 206 BC until 220 AD. Legend says that the ruler of the Chinese heavens, the Jade Emperor, asked the animals (including the dragon) to participate in a race in honour of his birthday. This fell on the ninth day of the first lunar month. The first 12 animals to arrive would represent a place in the calendar in the order they finished, but the tale is full of subplots.
Rat
reasonable, steady and determined
The ox was asked by the farmer to take a message to the Emperor, but also to sow seeds en route, as the land was barren. It had to sow a handful of seeds every three steps. It misunderstood and sowed three handfuls every step.
The rat is first on the list because during the race, it got a ride on the ox’s back across a wide river. However, the cunning rat stayed on the ox
modest, diplomatic, sincere
and a good caretaker
The rabbit and the ox were once friendly neighbours. One day the rabbit bragged about his prowess as a long-distance runner. “I have a slim body”, he declared, “but you are stout; you cannot run fast.” The ox practised and improved. They declared that they would run to heaven when but soon got tired and fell asleep. The ox, however,
to this.
never rested and forged ahead. The tiger ran by the rabbit and for safety the rabbit stayed behind
Tiger Element: Wood Compatible with: Horse and Dog Traits: Enthusiastic, confident, courageous,
ambitious, charismatic and a good leader
him, eventually finishing fourth.
Dragon Element: Earth Compatible with: Rat and Monkey Traits: Artistic, imaginative, lucky, flexible,
Originally the Jade Emperor chose the lion as a He had heard of the tiger’s bravery and invited it
adaptable, charming and sociable
Traits: Trustworthy, sociable, empathic,
grass and weeds forever. Being diligent, it has stuck
Zodiac animal, but it proved to be too aggressive.
Compatible with: Sheep and Pig
they heard the cock crow. The rabbit raced ahead,
Traits: Intelligent, artistic, quick-witted,
Element: Wood
As a consequence, it was instructed only to eat
Element: Water Compatible with: Dragon and Monkey
Rabbit
into heaven. Defeating the old guardians of heaven, the tiger became the new guardian. It was sent back to earth to restore order when the animals down there had become unruly.
eccentric, spiritual and charismatic
Originally hornless, the dragon wanted to be king of the zodiac animals. Not wanting to be regarded as lower than the tiger, it asked its brother, the chilopod (centipede), for advice. The chilopod suggested borrowing the rooster’s beautiful horns. The dragon did, and promised the rooster that they
throughout the race, jumping off just before the
The tiger fulfilled this task, and the Jade Emperor
would be returned. With its new horns the dragon
winning post. Its place at the head of the calendar
rewarded him by making him part of the zodiac
was immensely powerful and impressed the Jade
was thus assured.
instead of the lion.
Emperor, becoming a zodiac sign.
6 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
The Year Ahead
Snake Element: Fire
Long ago, grain only grew in heaven – the Jade Emperor would not give it to humans. The goat then smuggled holy grain from heaven in its mouth
Compatible with: Rooster and Ox
and gave it to those on earth. The Emperor was
Traits: Intelligent, philosophical, organised,
furious and ordered the goat to be slaughtered
intuitive, elegant, attentive and decisive
In days gone by, the snake had four legs, while the frog was legless but worked hard catching insects for humans. The snake was lazy and disliked, making it angry and prone to biting
and eaten. At the site where it was killed beautiful crops grew every year. The humans insisted that the goat be included in the zodiac, and so the Emperor obliged.
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Dog Element: Earth Compatible with: Tiger and Horse Traits: Sociable, lively, loyal, courageous,
diligent, steady, adaptable and intelligent
The Jade Emperor asked the cat and the dog what they did for humans and how much they ate. The dog answered truthfully that he guarded the house and ate a bowl of food.
the Divine Soldier to cut off the snake’s legs and
Monkey
reward them to the frog. The snake was full of
remorse, caught insects for humans, helped control
Compatible with: Dragon and Rat
the cat and rewarded it, causing the dog to chase
the water and when it died, donated its body as
Traits: Intelligent, lively, quick-witted,
charming, lucky, adaptable, bright
the cat into hiding. Although angered, the dog
and versatile
people. Hearing this, the Jade Emperor ordered
a medicine to the people. Upon hearing this, the Jade Emperor awarded it zodiac status.
Horse
Element: Metal
The cat lied, saying that it chanted scriptures, caught rats and ate little. The Emperor believed
went on to participate in the zodiac race, earning its place among the 12 animals.
The all-conquering tiger had power but was lonely. One day it fell into a hunter’s net. The monkey tiger was perplexed to be saved by such a lowly
Pig
Element: Fire
creature, but vowed to pay it back one day. When
Element: Water
Compatible with: Dog and Tiger
the Jade Emperor was choosing the animals, the
Compatible with: Sheep and Rabbit
monkey asked the tiger to speak on its behalf, and
Traits: Intelligent, adventurous, strong,
adaptable, loyal, courageous, and ambitious
climbed down from the trees and set it free. The
Traits: Sociable, honourable, determined, philanthropic, optimistic and sincere
so the monkey was chosen. Originally winged, the horse could run, fly and
A rich, childless farmer lived his life without any
Rooster
heirs to pass down his property to. Finally, his
by shrimp soldiers and crab generals, tried to fight
Element: Metal
decided to vist a fortune teller to find out the baby’s
it off, but the horse kicked the turtle to death.
Traits: Confident, honest, energetic,intelli
future. The seer predicted that the child would be
successful. However, despite this prediction, the
swim. As a royal horse for the Jade Emperor it became arrogant and decided to attack the Dragon Palace in the East Sea. The holy turtle, supported
The Emperor ordered its wings removed and for it to be buried for 300 years in Kulen Mountain. Rescued by a human, the horse worked for him out of gratitude. Recognising the horse’s remorse,
Compatible with: Snake and Ox gent, flamboyant, flexible and diverse
The rooster was mischevious and always caused trouble for the humans so they didn’t recommend
wife gave birth to the man’s son when he was 60 years old. When the baby was born, the couple
son was lazy. After the boy’s parents died, he did nothing and instead let the farm waste into decay.
it to the Jade Emperor. Frustrated, the rooster
Upon his death, the boy asked the Jade Emperor
asked the horse why. The horse said that the
why he had not been blessed. The Emperor told
rooster had to learn to provide a service for
him, “You had good fortune but you were too
the humans – perhaps the rooster’s voice could
lazy. As punishment, I will change you into a pig
help. The rooster started waking people up at
which eats chaff from the fields.” The officer in
Element: Earth
daybreak. As a reward the Jade Emperor plucked
Heaven mistook this as an order to make the pig
Compatible with: Boar and Rabbit
a red flower and placed it on the rooster’s head,
a zodiac sign, and from then on the pig became
and gave it a place in heaven.
one of the 12 animals.
the Jade Emperor awarded it zodiac status.
Goat Traits: Crafty, warm, elegant, charming,
intuitive, sensitive, and calm
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THE YEAR AHEAD
by Nat Paolone
Watch Out, Tet is Coming! Vietnamese Tet is the local version of Christmas and New Year’s Eve rolled into one, but is the hype worth the stress? Nat Paolone gives us a somber look at the holiday.
by Thoai
Yep, it’s that time of year again, when everyone merrily voices the illustrious “after Tet” catchphrases: “We’ll do it after Tet.” “We can finish it after Tet.” “We won’t be able to get it done before Tet.” “I’ll quit after Tet.” “I’ll find a new job after Tet.” So what’s your best Tet phrase?
“We won’t be able to get it done before Tet.” You may also hear: lock up your bike, your house, guard your belongings,Tet is coming. Items often seem to disappear in the run-up to Tet, and traffic police are unusually active. Those of you who have lived in Muslim countries in Southeast Asia will remember the run-up to Ramadan. As we all know, it’s the local version of Christmas and New Year’s Eve rolled into one, where everyone celebrates the lunar new year with rituals to bring good fortune and fame by following countless rituals. It is the time for family reunions and paying
Tet Food and Flowers
A fascinating aspect in recent years is the two months preceding Tet. If you’ve been here for a
Banh Tet is a traditional cake made with glutinous rice and mung bean, rolled in a banana leaf. Another traditional dish is the five fruits of Tet, or Nam Ngu Qua (the fruits are watermelon, custard apple, coconut, papaya, and mango). They represent the quintessential hope that Heaven and Earth will bless humans. It demonstrates a Vietnamese view of life:
“When taking fruit, you should think of the grower”.
respects to elders and ancestors. It’s the most
Colourful flowers fill towns and cities leading up
sacred time of year, with centuries of tradition.
to Tet – the peach tree in the North and apricot
while you probably have encountered countless people saddened while getting roundly shafted:
“I’m sad, my motorbike was stolen, my purse/backpack with all my money and phone was stolen, my landlord won’t return the house deposit, my cousin stole my boyfriend, then dumped him.” Have you noticed how customer service becomes dependent on “coffee money”?
Trials and Tribulations
blossoms in the South. The mandarin is thought
Top 5 Tet Festivities 1. Watching Fireworks on Tet New Year’s Eve
to bring good fortune, which is why it’s suddenly
The days leading up to Tet are meant to be a joyful
widely available.
occasion, giving thanks to Heaven and Earth, wishing our loved ones well. Why the stress?
Lucky Money!
Some suggest it’s the acute social pressure to spend
4. Lucky Money for Children and Elders
Get hold of lucky money envelopes as children and
Motor vehicle accidents rise during this time
5. Visiting Pagodas
young adults expect riches and luck from these
of year. Perhaps it is the eagerness to get home,
red sashes (some supermarkets hand them out at
pent-up energy, parties leading to tipsy driving, or
the cash register – grab them).
the desire to just let loose. Limit your driving on
2. Family Parties 3. New Year’s Greetings
The “tat nien” meal (the last meal of the lunar year) shares all the sadness and happiness and experiences gained throughout the year. These parties are also a time to review family tradition, show respect to elders and strengthen relationships.
“Lucky money, lucky money, where’s my lucky money!” Most Vietnamese return to their hometowns
The first day of Tet is important, as actions on this
for quality time with family and friends. The
day will determine one’s fate for the coming year.
sudden rush to accumulate wealth to share may
Even during the American War, both sides agreed
have something to do with the sharp increase in
to a temporary ceasefire to respect Tet – although
“merry” trickery. Some say the country is on pause.
the North broke this tradition during the 1968
Recruitment of staff becomes impossible, as all are
Tet Offensive.
awaiting the 13th month payout.
8 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
money during the festive season.
the lead-up to Tet. Travelling during Tet, the busiest travel season in Vietnam, is full of surprises. Prices of hotels and food sharply rise, accommodation/eateries burst at the seams, and airplanes are fully booked. When all the festivities come to a close, life returns to a form of relative normality.
Another Tet has come and gone. Enjoy!
by Keith Hancock
Born under the sign of the rooster? Then this is a year of romance, good fortune and health. Sounds terrific, doesn’t it? But what does this mean for you?
What Type of Rooster Are You?
THE YEAR AHEAD
#iAMHCMC
How Do You Cock-A-Doodle-Do?
To make matters even more confusing, there are five different types of rooster, depending on your date of birth. If you were born in 1957 (or 2017), you are a Fire Rooster, and tend to be trustworthy, good at timekeeping (good luck in
Vietnam) and responsible at work. Born in 1969? Then you are an
Earth Rooster. You are said to
be sweet natured, generous,
The importance given to the zodiac in Asia cannot
trustworthy and popular among
be overstated. Many people plan everything
friends, family and neighbours.
around the stars, whether it’s business ventures,
Born in 1981, the Gold Rooster is determined, brave, hardworking and perseveres well.
buying a house or planning a marriage. Strangely, the year of one’s own animal sign is considered unlucky, so 2017 is not a year for the roosters out there to get too cocky.
Job Prospects The list of jobs at which roosters excel is as long as a Friday-evening Saigon traffic jam: teacher, soldier, fireman, security guard, police officer, newsreader, salesperson, hairdresser, restaurateur, public relations officer, farmer, athlete, waiter,
Born in 1993, the Water Rooster
Roosters are said to be observant, hard-working,
is smart, quick-witted, warm-
courageous and resourceful; they are also talented
hearted and compassionate.
individuals. Popular among a group of people, they are gregarious and fun to be with. However,
journalist, travel writer, dentist, surgeon and on and on and on.
Affairs of the Heart
Finally, the Wood Roosters were
they are demanding and sometimes crave the
born in 2005 and are energetic,
attention of others too much. They are tough
So, all in all, you roosters will face a mixed year.
over-confident, tender but
cookies, don’t often fall ill and when they do, they
What are your feelings? Will this prove to be a
somewhat unstable.
fight the illness well.
rooster-booster of a year, or a load of old cock?
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THE YEAR AHEAD
by Keith Hancock
Goodbye Traffic, Hello Tet! Vietnamese people love nothing better at Tet than to get together with their families, eat and relax
Tet in Vietnam is the country’s busiest time, and yet also the quietest week of the year in Ho Chi Minh City. Yet parks are still full of colourful decorations and festivities.
at home. This inevitably leads to a yearly mass migration throughout the country every time the holiday comes round as you will soon experience for yourself. Millions of Vietnamese travel back to their hometowns to spend the holiday with their loved ones. It is a true moveable feast in the Gregorian calendar as it signals the start of the Lunar New Year falls early, as it comes at the end of January.
“The full title is Tet Nguyen Dan, which translates as the Feast of the First Morning of the First Day.” The country has used the Gregorian Calendar since
Vietnamese prepare special holiday dishes
the third is devoted to paying respect to teachers.
1954, but it still uses the lunar calendar to observe
specially for Tet and give their houses a thorough
Children look forward to receiving their red
some holidays and commemorations, including
spring cleaning to get ready for the new year.
envelopes containing lucky money. As people
Tet and the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Holiday food includes a veritable panoply of
return home to their villages, so Ho Chi Minh
different delicacies, including various types of
City empties. Many businesses close down
rice cakes called banh chung, and banh day (we
completely for the entire week and the city
encourage you to try them both); canh sang,
becomes a place of solace. This is the one time of
which is dried young bamboo soup; sausages
the year when traffic disappears, streets fall quiet
called gio; and, of course, the always-popular
and the choking smog dissipates. Many bars and
sticky rice.
restaurants also close, meaning that there is a lot
It is also worth noting that The Vietnamese calendar varies slightly from that of the Chinese. The Chinese use Coordinated Universal Time (GMT) +8 hours, whereas Vietnam is UTC +7 hours. This was chosen by North Vietnam in 1967 and the South joined in 1975 at the end of the war. The one-hour difference sometimes means
Each day of the holiday is reserved for different
that the new moon falls on a different day and
purposes. The first day of Tet is traditionally
therefore there is a whole day’s difference between
reserved for the immediate family. The second
the two countries.
day is reserved for activities with friends, and
less to do than normally, so meeting with people outside of the house can be tricky. It is, however, a wonderful time to just chill out.
“Last year I rode down Dong Khoi on a Sunday afternoon and I was the only vehicle that I saw.” What’s on in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet? One of the highlights in the city centre is the annual flower show that takes place. Nguyen Hue will be transformed into a magnificent garden in a truly breathtaking display. It is hard to believe that this is a temporary show, such is the amount of work that goes into it. For families with children, many of the parks in city like Dam Sen Park and Suoi Tien Park are great choices to spend your holidays. Activities during Tet include music shows in the evenings. The parks are full of colourful decorations and a by VanLap Hoang
10 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
festive atmosphere looms large.
Keely Burkey by
Food REVIEW
Upper Saigon
#iAMHCMC
Here was our dinner: Techno Tacos (VND150,000 for three): A perfect appetiser, or even a light meal. Made with crunchy shells and ground beef, these tacos were stuffed
We take a trip to Ho Chi Minh City’s newest American-inspired urban rooftop oasis, Upper Saigon, where we enjoyed the view and house music with our ribs and tacos.
to the brim with fresh greens and topped with salsa. They came with a balsamic vinaigrette that complemented the tacos well. Buffalo Wings (VND240,000 for 10; VND340,000 for 16): They did not skimp on the sauce with these wings – be sure to stock up on wet wipes. These wings had a bit of heat, but they weren’t overly spicy. The dish came with the traditional garnish of celery and carrot sticks as well as two dipping sauces (ranch and barbecue). Coal-Baked Cube Roll Rib Eye (VND380,000 for 300 gr): A traditional rib eye cooked well and sliced into strips. It was served with a delicious and well-paired black pepper sauce as well as a
Rooftop, 308 Dien Bien Phu, D3 | +84 12 3877 3774 | www.uppersaigon.vn
When you go to a rooftop bar in Ho Chi Minh
The wait staff were all courteous and smiled as they
City, there are some things most people generally
took orders and delivered our food and drinks.
expect to see and hear: expensive prices, colourful
They made a genuine effort to talk to the guests
flashing lights and straight-laced suits.
and develop a relationship on a more personal
Now forget all of these preconceived notions, because Upper Saigon is doing something different. Developed as “Saigon’s Urban Oasis”, this new bar and grill brings United States cuisine to District 3.
Ambience The bar was relaxed, with a variety of different areas for patrons to sit. The focus on house music was a big departure from other rooftop venues in Saigon. This will definitely be a place to listen to quality house beats and amazing DJs. We sat on the outside patio overlooking District 3. Truly, the view was spectacular. There weren’t too many tall buildings nearby, so large portions of the city were spread out around us. If you’re out of work before the sun sets, this would be a great place for an early dinner.
Service
level than you see at many bars in Vietnam. They were also attentive – mid-meal, when our plates were thoroughly soaked with various sauces, a waiter discretely switched the sticky plates with clean replacements.
Food and Drink
side of baked mac and cheese. Without a doubt, the mac and cheese was my favourite dish of the night, and a wonderful surprise in a city where high-quality cheese dishes are a relative scarcity. Drunken Kung-Fu Ribs (VND360,000 for 0.5 kg; VND650,000 for 1 kg): A generous helping of very saucy ribs (again, wet wipes will be your friend here) served with a tequila-infused dipping sauce and sweet potato fries. The ribs delivered exactly what the menu promised: meaty decadence. Bonus points to the chef for the fries, which were expertly salted.
What Could Be Improved Although it doesn’t have the cheapest prices in Saigon, it’s certainly cheaper than most rooftop bars, and about on par with many Western-style eateries around the city. Even better, Upper Saigon offers daily specials on specific items. The menu is definitely heavy on meat dishes, but it also offers a variety of snack options, including Caesar salad (VND90,000) and mixed vegetables with a cheese dip (VND70,000). The selection of cocktails is long and well-
A steak knife would have been a useful addition for the beef dish.
What People Say Although the bar is still new, reviews have been overwhelmingly positive; most recommend taking advantage of their weekly Techno Taco Tuesday special (50% off!).
curated. They range from four different flavours of margarita to the tropical drinks ubiquitous throughout the city. If sugary drinks aren’t for you, there’s an extensive list of beer, wine and
When we arrived at the Robot Tower, the hostess
hard liquor. For my part, I enjoyed the Upper
at the front door greeted us warmly and assumed
Saigon (VND120,000), the eponymous house
we were there for the bar. She led us to a set of
drink, which combined Cointreau with banana,
elevators, and we were greeted by a second hostess
orange and lime juice. It was a light and refreshing
when we reached the 15th floor.
palate cleanser. 11
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT featureS
by Frank Fox
Best Family Activities in the City Binh Quoi
What can you do with the kids on a free weekend, an afternoon or even just a few hours? We all know we can go to the cinema and the gaming caves of the malls in District’s 1, 2 and 7, but let’s focus on more active solutions.
Get in Touch with Your Wild Side The zoo is an attraction that lost its charm when
Parks and playgrounds are great outdoor
the management decided to put profit ahead of
attractions for toddlers and children up to a certain
the comfort of the animals. However, children
age. Depending on where you live, you can pick
love to see elephants, giraffes and other interesting
the closest one for a few hours of relaxation in a
creatures. And while the youngest enjoy feeding the
relatively calm and green environment while the
goats and marvelling at the tigers, older children
youngsters play and make friends.
may learn something about species-appropriate zookeeping. Avoid the weekends, though: the
Enjoy an Urban Oasis
deafening music at the centre of the area disturbs the nearby monkeys and they start hurling rubbish
23/9 Park stretches from the Ben Thanh
at visitors.
roundabout all the way to Thai Binh Market
the songbird singing competition at the outdoor
between Pham Ngu Lao street and Le Lai street.
cafe near Truong Dinh street. Another advantage
While in the evening locals are dancing or
of Tao Dan Park is its proximity to the Golden
exercising and students hone their English skills
Dragon Water Puppet Theatre (55B Nguyen
on unsuspecting tourists, during the day the small
Thi Minh Khai, D1). The water puppet show is a
playground near Ben Thanh Market is a popular
lovely indoor activity for children and adults alike.
5, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 | Phone: +84 8 3829 1425
by captianp2001
spot for local, expat and tourist kids and toddlers. The toys are in good condition, and corner stores
Le Van Tam Park on Hai Ba Trung street
as well as various street vendors are within reach.
is not only a nice place to skate, run and chat
Before you leave the area, make sure to drop by
with friends, it also offers a small theme park for
Ralf’s Artisan Gelato on Dang Thi Nhu street for
younger children. They can ride a train, a merry-
a scoop of your favourite gelato.
go-round and other attractions. There is also a bouncy castle and a ball cage.
Tao Dan Park behind the Independence Palace
Pet Me does not have the best coffee in the city,
there’s a very nice and spacious playground for
The Van Thanh
Leisure Area in Binh Thanh
but it is a chance for your kids to get closer to
all kinds of family activities that also includes
District is ideal for a nice afternoon getaway.
their furry, feathery and scaly friends. Located in
an indoor play area – handy during the frequent
You can book a small hut and bring your own
Thao Dien, this is a nicely designed outdoor area
downpours in the rainy season. The park itself is
barbecue, and then explore the area or swim with
that harbours a variety of animals that can bring
quite big and serves as an event location for boy
your family in the pool. There is a playground with
a smile to your child’s face. Daredevils may even
and girl scout gatherings, bonsai exhibitions and
many activities for children.
hold a snake, if they wish.
so forth. In the morning you get to experience
Ward 22, Binh Thanh D | +84 8 3512 3026
198 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 | +84 91 709 6677
12 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
Beat the Heat
Keep Things Low-Key
Dam Sen Water Park is a big amusement park
A few nice places can be discovered along
in District 11. It offers a variety of attractions
Binh Quoi street on Thanh Da Island (accessible
from water slides to a giant freezer where your
through the Binh Thanh District), which runs up
family can experience ice sculptures and colourful
the peninsula that can be seen from the Thao Dien
lighting.
riverside.
3 Hoa Binh, D11 | +84 8 3963 3593.
There are leisure areas and restaurants, as well
Maia Club in Phu My Hung has you and your
as parks where you can rent a nice place for a
whole family covered. There’s an awesome pool, a sandbox and a kids’ club. While your children are having fun discovering their slumbering talents, you can relax at the spa or play golf or tennis. Lot MD2, Phu My Hung, D7 | +84 8 5412 1311
#iAMHCMC
kid’s birthday party. More interesting for teens, however, are the fishing dens where you can catch mantis shrimps or fish and have them barbecued on site. It does not compare to a fishing weekend in the highlands, but it’s fine for an hour of quiet excitement.
Put the Active Back in Activity
Bình Quoi, Ward 28, Binh Thanh D
Other events and activities are more specialised in terms of your youngster’s age and interests.
Kizciti, for example, is a whole little world for children, where they can experience what it is like to be an adult. On entering the area, children receive a small amount of the local currency called “kizo”. Depending on what they are playing, they can earn kizo or have to pay some. There is a variety of jobs to try, as well a simple bistro-cafe for a snack or a coffee for the parents. 48 Hoang Dieu, D4 | +84 8 3825 3868
Snap Café in Thao Dien is one of the best family environments in the area, providing an open-air space for kids to run around, as well as a playground with a sandbox, while you enjoy a nice coffee or afternoon snack. 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 | +84 8 3519 4532
At
Vinspace art studio in Thao Dien, kids can
hone their creative talents and take part in art workshops to bring colour to your life and on their brand new white shirts. You can attend a by Kim Dung
workshop together and cooperate in a family activity to create a work of art that fills that blank
Saigon Outcast is not only a nice entertainment
space on the kitchen wall.
location, conveniently placed in Thao Dien, it is
6 Le Van Mien, D2 | +84 90 772 9846
also a place for your kids to run around while you listen to live music or attend one of its many
TRUST YOUR SKIN TO A
DERMATOLOGIST
events. The half pipe may interest your older kids, and the most daring teens and adults can try the
Push Rock Climbing wall. 188 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 | +84 90 236 5780
Bowling can be great fun for older kids and adults alike. The most famous bowling hall is
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Dist. 1 HCMC
(08) 3925 1990
*COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY *SKIN DISEASE *HAIRLOSS *STD
upstairs at Diamond Plaza. 34 Le Duan, D1 | +84 8 3825 7778
13
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT featureS
by Kristian Goodchild
Get Active in the City Finding your way around Saigon’s various attractions can be a headache. But lurking beneath the surface of this gloriously varied city lays a wealth of options.
Climb a (Mini) Mountain
Saigon’s Best Flea Market
Vertical Academy
Hoa Lu Stadium, 2 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 | +84 90 180 4858
18-20 Truc Duong, D2 | +84 8 6281 9248 X-Rock Climbing
For a break from the usual rip-off merchants at
Phan Dinh Phung Sport Center, 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3
Ben Thanh market, why not take a trip down to
+84 8 6278 5794
the Hello Weekend Flea Market? With a wide array
Whether you want a chilled out afternoon, an
of new and used products and a friendly, almost
adrenaline fuelled adventure or a cultural journey
hippyish vibe, the market is a true gem. You still
of discovery, here are some of the great activities
might have to haggle a little, but it’s nowhere near
Ho Chi Minh City has to offer.
as cutthroat as the other markets in town, and the variety on offer is pretty astounding.
Sign Up for Beer School
Slip and Slide on Ice
Various locations | +84 12 0710 1450
Craft beer has become huge in Saigon. What
L5-09 Level 5, Vincom Mega Mall, Thao Dien, D2
started with HCMC’s first true microbrewery,
+84 1900 6677, Ext. 9
Pasteur Street Brewing Company, has exploded
The new Vincom megamall in D2 is home to
into a city-wide phenomenon. To get your head
HCMC’s coolest new attraction. Climb to the 5th
and tongue around the craze, look no further than the Saigon Beer School. Learn how to identify nose,
Saigon may be short on mountains, but it’s not
notes and finishes with expert tutelage, tour some
short on climbing opportunities. District 2’s Vertical
breweries and organize beer events.
Academy features a huge top rope wall, as well as bouldering and training facilities. It’s so much fun,
Shoot Your Friends
you won’t even notice you’re working out.
Thu Duc Paintball Club
Water Ski the Day Away
floor to find a huge ice skating rink. With 900 m2 that can comfortably accommodate 100 skaters at a time, it’s insanely popular with locals, especially at weekends. Services such as skating lessons and medical care make this kid-friendly.
Scale the Bitexco
19, Street 48, Hiep Binh Chanh, Thu Duc D +84 8 6283 5788 Paintball Saigon
Level 50-51-52, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 | +84 97 950 5152 Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 | +84 90 977 2612
14, Street 11, An Phu, D2 | +84 90 681 9001
Thrill seekers on the hunt for an adrenaline fix
What better way to bond with your friends,
need look no further than Water Ski Viet Nam.
loved ones and complete strangers than by firing
With a full array of white-knuckle watersports
a round of paint at them? Get down to the
on offer, there is no better way to experience
Thu Duc Paintball Club and lock, load and fire
the excitement of wakeboarding, waterskiing,
at will. Without a doubt one of the best outdoor
barefoot waterskiing, wake surfing or double
activities in Ho Chi Minh City. Here’s a tip for
waterskiing. Featuring high-end Mastercraft and
aspiring paintball masters: pick a cool day to sign
Malibu boats and O’Neill equipment, safety is a
up. With the armour and gear, the outfits can get
top priority here.
a bit toasty under the Vietnamese sun.
Relax in the Botanical Gradens Saigon Zoo / Botanical Gardens, 5, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 | +84 8 3829 1425
Since 1864, the Saigon Botanical Gardens have been a top destination for busy Saigonese to take a break and engage with nature. Skating enthusiasts can visit the roller rink for a little spin around the circuit. Animal lovers may want to avoid the nearby zoo, with its tiny cages and run-down facilities. 14 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
With stunning views of downtown Saigon, some of the higher floors of the city’s iconic Bitexco tower host EON51 Fine Dining. The prices are steep, but the unparalleled vista of the Saigon River and beyond are worth it, if only for a drink and a view. by Thinh Dinh
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
Jeep Tours
Craft Your Own Leather
20, street 48, D4 | +84 8 3943 4606 / +84 91 338 1109
116/19A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 | +84 12 8515 7571
Want to turn heads and learn something about
Taking elements of traditional Vietnamese leather
the city you live in? Look no further than Jeep
craft with a contemporary twist, the products at
Tour Saigon. With a range of tours, from the Cu
the Saigon Leather Workshop are stylish yet simple.
Chi tunnels to Saigon by night, it’s a great way
And best of all, you can make them yourself. With
to explore the city and beyond, all while looking
guidance on sourcing, techniques and style, the
classy in a little monster of a Jeep.
workshop is a masterclass in leatherworking.
Street Food Tours
Saigon Pony Club
Street Foodies Tours: +84 93 210 3985 / +84 12 0898 6388
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 | +84 91 373 3360
Back of the Bike Tours: +84 93 504 6910 Vietnam Vespa Adventures: +84 122 299 3585
District 2’s Saigon Pony Club is host to 20 ponies
XO Tours: +84 93 308 3727
and three stallions of varying size. With two foreign
#iAMHCMC
teachers adept at instructing riders of all ages, the facility provides excellent tuition for children and adults alike. Set up 10 years ago, the Saigon Pony Club remains the best riding school in Saigon.
Throw a Bowl Overland reopens in February at 54B Nguyen Thi Huynh, Phu Nhuan District | +84 8 3820 9734
With such a huge range of delicious foods, Saigon is a foodie’s paradise… if you know where to look. Luckily, a number of tour guides have cropped up.
Vietnamese ceramics date back millennia, predating Chinese domination and incorporating a mix of Khmer, Indian and Cham influences. You can learn all about the craft at the Overland Pottery Studio.
Back of the Bike Tours takes you on an exhilarating race around town with all sorts of delicious treats thrown in, while Street Foodies Tours takes much the same plan, albeit at a more sedate, four-hour pace. XO Tours and Vietnam
Get Your Art On 6 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 | +84 90 772 9846
Vespa Adventures are two of the most established companies of their kind in the city, so be sure to check them out as well.
Discover, Grow and Cook Vietnamese Food Western Asian Travel Service Company 275 Tinh Lo 2, Ap 3, Phuoc Vinh An, Cu Chi | +84 8 3794 2175 Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 | +84 8 3825 8485
With a plethora of cooking classes, it’s easy to get lost for choice. Take a trip out of town to the Ho Chi Minh Cooking Class. Set in the magnificent Agricultural Village near Cu Chi, the facility lets you grow traditional Vietnamese food, learn
Vin Space in District 2 has quickly made its mark as one of Vietnam’s top art workshops. With classes for all ages, it offers everything from fun kids’ activities to wine-and-painting nights for grown-ups.
traditional recipes and techniques and enjoy an
Local partnerships ensure that you’ll be well-fed
expertly prepared meal from the school’s top chefs.
with snacks from artisanal producers. 15
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT featureS
by Tom Owen
Outstanding Casinos in and around Ho Chi Minh City
Before I get into the nitty gritty of which casinos made it onto our list, it’s important to establish a few things about gaming in Vietnam...
The Grand Ho Tram Strip Casino
dealers, it’s the real deal. Drinks are free and plentiful, with an army of attentive and good-natured staff on hand. There’s an expansive poker room, floor-side
Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria Vung Tau Opening hours: 24/7 | +84 64 3788 888
restaurant and VIP area for high rollers. From the airy atmosphere and live music on
Firstly, all the games mentioned (roulette,
The Grand Ho Tram Strip Casino is a two-hour
blackjack, baccarat, poker) are electronic versions
drive by car or free shuttle bus from Ho Chi Minh
– table games with real croupiers are strictly
City. The reason I include it here is because it’s by
forbidden in Saigon.
far the best casino in the country.
There is one exception to this, the Grand Ho
Marketed as the only Las Vegas-style casino in
compensated by its style and fun factor. Whether
Tram Strip mentioned at the end of the list.
Vietnam, this luxurious gaming room lives up to its
you’re a seasoned gambler or just looking for a
Technically, it’s outside of Ho Chi Minh City and
billing. With live roulette, blackjack, baccarat and
good time, you need to book a night in the hotel
is purpose-built for Asian and Western players
hold’em poker games, complete with croupiers and
and try your luck here.
used to playing in Las Vegas and Macau. As such, the rules are a little more relaxed and there are live table games including blackjack, roulette and baccarat. You should also note that you can only gamble in US dollars, so bring some with you – the exchange rates you’ll get in the casinos from Vietnamese dong to USD are varied at best. Minimum bets start from 5 cents for slots and $10 for blackjack. In this article I’ll just be talking US Dollars to avoid confusion. It’s also essential to bring along your passport or other proof of your nationality – there are strict laws against Vietnamese citizens gambling and only foreigners are allowed to step foot in a casino. Finally, good luck and happy gaming! 16 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
weekends to the restrained (at least by casino standards) decor, this is a place you will enjoy spending time, win or lose. Standout: Its distant location is more than
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
Palazzo Club
#iAMHCMC
and blackjack. VIPs get some spectacular perks: free food from Park Hyatt’s fine dining restaurant,
80 Dong Du, D1 | Opening hours: 24/7 | +84 8 3824 7576
The Palazzo’s staff are certainly efficient: a free bottle of water was brought to my seat before I had a chance to put any money into a machine. Most of the casinos in Ho Chi Minh City have
the ability to set a minimum at a table and more. Standout: Definitely the service and the abundant jackpots. You can’t ignore the free food and drinks.
Chat Slots Gaming Center
a membership programme, although they are sometimes hesitant, even reluctant, to offer
New World Hotel | 76 Le Lai, D1
it to tourists. Seasoned gamblers know these
Opening hours: 24/7 | +84 8 3824 3760
memberships rarely pay off, with players losing
Also known as the International Tourist Club,
far more than they gain back, but the Palazzo
this is a great spot for social gamers – the roulette
Club (inside the Sheraton Saigon) is a refreshing
tables have a minimum bet of 50 cents and there
exception, with rewards for players who accrue
are free drinks (although the floor staff will skirt
as few as 50 points (the equivalent of $750 in
around you unless you purposefully flag one
bets). Slots players can get to 50 points simply
down to make an order). Another bonus is that
by betting $250 over the course of an evening.
with a full minute between spins of the roulette
The downside of this is that there are no free alcoholic drinks and you’ll have to pay for meals. There’s a special area reserved for Gold and Platinum members (my membership is a lowly Bronze), with higher table limits and more attentive staff. If you want in, you’ll have to bet big: only members with 20,000 points (or $300,000 worth of blackjack hands or roulette spins) in a single month qualify to upgrade. Standout: The Palazzo Club offers some of the friendliest service I’ve received in a Ho Chi Minh City casino.
Monte Carlo Saigon Club
wheel you won’t find yourself deep in a hole before your first Johnny Walker appears. This is one of the more spacious casinos in Ho Chi Minh City, with ample room dedicated to slots. What’s nice about the way things are arranged is that the constant chirruping of slot machines is far enough away to act as background noise, rather than the main soundtrack to your evening. The attendants at the blackjack tables are friendly and professional, and at $10 this is as cheap as you’ll find in a downtown casino in Ho Chi Minh City. You can also try your luck at baccarat. Standout: This was the only casino I visited offering video poker, with a $300 minimum buy-in to sit. The game is Texas Hold’em only, though.
101 Hai Ba Trung, D1 | Opening hours: 24/7 | +84 8 3914 0777
Under the same ownership (and in the same
Club Royale
building) as the Park Hyatt Saigon, this fourfloor casino reflects the Hyatt’s knack for refined service, making it one of the more inviting casinos in the city. It’s not as roomy as some gaming centres in Ho Chi Minh City; the multi-floor layout feels quite cosy. The space is full of games like Western and FaFaFa slots, baccarat, blackjack and roulette. Unfortunately, there’s no pokert, though Monte Carlo Saigon Club makes up for this with free beverages and free dining for all loyalty members. The accommodating atmosphere doesn’t end with just freebies: the staff is helpful and will explain any questions you may have about the
1 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 | Opening hours: 24/7 | +84 8 3822 1888
The luxurious gold and black decor of Club Royale sets it apart from the competition, while the speed and efficiency with which you’re provided with a membership card makes it possible to start collecting loyalty points as soon as you begin playing. Note that there’s a separate entrance to Club Royale, so you can’t access it from the main Renaissance Riverside reception. Free drinks are available as you play, with a long list of teas, coffee, soft drinks, beer, wine or spirits.
games or the current jackpot. Staff members speak
Standout: The Club Royale membership
English, Korean and Chinese. The minimums are
programme offers some the best benefits if you’re
reasonable: two cents for slots (10 cents for the VIP
only visiting the city. You need to accrue 3,000
slots); 50 cents for roulette; and $50 for baccarat
points in a calendar month to get $50 back. 17
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT featureS
by Keith Hancock
Game Day in Saigon by MariusTakesPictures
The Buddha Bar and Grill 7 Thao Dien, D2 | +84 8 3744 2080 | 2 p.m. to 4 a.m. daily
The Buddha Bar is one of the best bars in the city, full stop. It should be my favourite in which to watch my football, but the staff never prioritise sport. Two good pool tables create a great atmosphere on pool nights. Plenty of TVs and two big screens. It has great music nights on as well, which is all well and good, but takes away from the sports bar ranking. Good quality bar snacks and a craft beer bar, sets up a good evening.
Game On 115 Ho Tung Mau, D1 | +84 8 6251 9898 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. every day except 8 a.m. to midnight on Sundays
Saigon is blessed with excellent bars in which to play pub games and watch your favourite sports teams. here are some of our favourite sports bars in HCMC. What makes a really great sports bar? For me, it is the ability of staff to recognise the needs of the customer, put those needs first and create that really special atmosphere for playing pub sports, watching your favourite team and enjoying good beer.
Dtwo Sportspub
town. Game On gets huge crowds in for the big 55-57 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, D2 | +84 8 3519 4138
games, but again, it can get annoyingly loud in
10 a.m. to 1 a.m. every day except 10 a.m. to midnight on Sundays
here even when there’s hardly anyone in. With
This is probably the busiest sports bar in
a little more thought paid to turning the sound
District 2 these days, thanks in no small part
down, this would be one of the best for me. It is,
to the terrific Sunday roast deals and the new
however, still excellent, with two good pool tables
management, who prioritise sports. This is a
for those wishing to play.
great place to watch any sport, especially English Premier League football, F1 racing, Rugby and Aussie rules football. They have plenty of good quality TV screens and excellent meals and bar
We are blessed in Ho Chi Minh City with many
snacks. There is also a pool table for those who
great venues to choose from. Whilst nowhere is
prefer to play rather than watch. Overall, a terrific,
perfect, these are my favourites:
family-friendly sports bar.
Orient Bar
This is an extremely popular bar in the centre of
The White House
Phatty’s Sports Bar & Grill 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 | +84 8 3821 0796 8 a.m. to midnight daily
One of the oldest established bars in the city, Phatty’s has been serving cold ones and showing games for years. Acoustically challenged and packed more often than not, it is always extremely loud. But the atmosphere cranks up a treat for the
Add: 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 | +84 123 821 7125 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily
Again, this bar suffers from the staff preferring music to sport. I have been in here to watch a match when the only clientele were there for the football (I know, because I asked). Still the staff would not turn the music off. Shame, because it’s
Nguyen U Di, Hem So 4, Thao Dien, D2
big Aussie Rules footie games. Excellent food and
4 p.m. to midnight daily | +84 8 6681 3023
ice cold beers are the norm here.
The White House is the new kid on the block for sports and plenty more. With one pool table downstairs, two superb competition-quality pool
Harry Casual
tables upstairs, darts, TV and a huge projection screen, this is one of the best in the city. The comfy
R1-49 Hung Gia 3, D7 | +84 16 6231 6000
sofas in front of the big screen are like watching
The best sports bar in D7 without a doubt. There
Besides the fact that it has the best TVs in town
the game from home, only with better service and
are three great pool tables, top pool teams, friendly
(great for watching football, cricket and rugby),
lovely bar snacks. A truly classy venue, beautiful
locals, a great alfresco area and TVs behind the
it’s central location makes it a convenient place
grounds and a swimming pool to boot. The recent
bar for watching sports (there is a strong rugby
to meet friends from all over the city. Plus, it has
addition of no less than eight craft beers are a
focus). The South African management run the
good food as well.
big plus.
bar superbly and serve food all day.
my favourite place to watch, when they get it right.
18 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
by Keely Burkey ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
#iAMHCMC
May I Have This Dance? Ho Chi Minh City has many options for dancers to choose from: swing dancing, salsa, ballroom and more. Here are some of the best places to go to sway to the beat. Dust off your tap shoes, because Saigon is a city that loves to dance. Whether you’re a fan of a good waltz or some salsa, a tap dance or ’30s swing, there are dozens of places that will let you groove in style. Take a look at these top places to dance in Ho Chi Minh City and let the Lindy Hops begin. Cuba la Casa Del Mojito
Improve Your Skills XSalsa is another prime option. This District
bet is at some of Saigon’s parks. While it’s hard
Do you want to take up dancing in your spare
3 studio at 28 Ngo Thoi Nhiem offers free salsa
to know for sure when you’ll encounter the waltz
time? No problem! Dance studios are incredibly
and bachata classes and is headed by Luong Thien
on your morning walk, your best bet is during the
welcoming and a great way to connect with new
Chuong, hailed as one of the best male salsa
mornings and evenings, especially on weekends.
people – locals as well as expats.
dancers in the city. Luong’s passion for the craft
Check Gia Dinh (Hoang Minh Giam, Tan Binh
is evident: over 11 years, XSalsa has expanded to
District),
If you’re not sure what dance to choose, why not try out a few? SaigonDance has got you covered.
three studios around Ho Chi Minh City.
Le Van Tam (Vo Thi Sau, D1) and Le Thi Rieng (Truong Son, D10) parks in particular. While it’s not a sure thing, chances are
This dance studio in District 3 (94-96 Duong So 2)
However, if you’re just looking for a dance night,
offers dance classes as diverse as Bollywood, jazz,
why not check some of these cafes? Le
hip hop and even the exotic art of pole dancing.
Soleil (44 Ly Tu Trong, D1) holds a salsa night
While these options should keep you grooving for
DanceSpace Vietnam
every Wednesday. You’ll find salsa and bachata
a while, they’re far from the only dance venues
(51 Xa Lo Ha Noi, Thao Dien, D2). If you’re
at the Cuba
la Casa Del Mojito (91 Pasteur,
Saigon has to offer. With a little planning (and a
looking for something a little more traditional,
D1) on Mondays and Thursdays, respectively,
lot of energy), you can easily find a spot to dance
this is the place for you. Besides ballet, salsa and
and every Tuesday you can dance at the ZFloor
the night away every day of the week.
hip hop, DanceSpace Vietnam is also one of the
(2 Ho Xuan Huong, D3). Ole!
Also be sure to check
Fenetre
you’ll get some fresh air along with the foxtrot.
only studios that teaches traditional Vietnamese
Swing Time
folk dancing.
Dancing the Night Away
If you’re more into the 1920s spirit, the Saigon
Swing Cats have got your back. Without a While dance studios can be great to improve your
doubt, the Saigon Swing Cats are the people to
skills, sometimes you just want something fun to
talk to if swing is your thing. Join the club and
do on date night. Good thing Saigon’s myriad
then head to Cafe Molinari (5 Le Duan, D1) for
cafes, bars and dance groups host dozens of weekly
a basic swing class on Wednesdays after 8:30pm
dance nights.
(remember to bring VND 75,000 to get in) to find
As far as dancing goes, salsa is the caliente king of Saigon. You can feel the heat in several places around the city. If you don’t know your milonga from your bachata and want to connect to a
your groove. Also be sure to check
La Fenetre
Soleil on Sundays from 7-9 p.m. for a second dose of (free!) swing, whether you’re hip on the Lindy Hop, Charleston or Balboa.
La Salsa
Of course, how could we not mention ballroom
on 212 Nguyen Dinh Chieu in District 3. This
dancing? These elegant moves have had a long
group provides social salsa classes every night of
history in Vietnam, and its popularity continues
the week – no need to bring a partner.
to this day. If you’re on the lookout, your best
salsa-centric group, be sure to check
19
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT featureS
by Kristian Goodchild & Zoe Osborne
Feel the Beat: Your Live Music Guide Whether you’re a lover of jazz, hard rock, or open mics, Saigon after-hours has a plethora of musical possibilities. As a city that never sleeps, Vietnam’s commercial
saves the venue from being another generic live
centre and one of Southeast Asia’s top backpacker
music entry, and the cosy atmosphere and low
hotspots, it’s no wonder that Ho Chi Minh City is
seating is the perfect setting to crowd around some
home to such a diverse range of music venues and
of their energetic acts.
artsy people. No matter what your nighttime music scene is, the city has something for everyone. Here are some of our top recommendations.
Sax’n’Art 28 Le Loi, D1 | +84 8 3822 8472
Catwalk 76 Le Lai, D1 | +84 8 3824 3760
Catwalk is a top karaoke venue, nightclub and live music joint rolled into one.
by Shadow Traveller
If jazz is your weakness, and if a room with red
A classy city venue, this popular spot is frequented
wine, good people and cosy low lighting is your
by businessmen and high-end revellers of Saigon
idea of a soothing evening, then the Sax’n’Art Jazz
society. Catwalk houses 14 private karaoke
Club is definitely your kind of place. Come and tap
rooms, a spacious dance floor, and a stage for the
along to the local band jamming on saxophonist
club’s Cuban and Vietnamese bands performing
Tran Manh Tuan’s charts (a fusion of contemporary
international hits, who play with the skill of
jazz and traditional Vietnamese music), and get
passionate musicians devoted to their craft.
soulful with classics from the legendary Charlie
Hard Rock Cafe Kumho Asiana Plaza | 39 Le Duan, D1 | +84 8 6291 7595
Ho Chi Minh City’s successful outlet of this wellknown international chain is a favourite among expats and locals, and is our recommended go-to if you crave a hearty Western meal and
Parker to jazz icon Sonny Rollins.
Maxim’s
Acoustic Bar
13-15-17 Dong Khoi, D1 | +84 8 3822 5554
plays nightly, along with occasional local and
The luxurious Maxim’s Club has been a highlight
international guest artists.
a well-mixed house cocktail. Think burger and chips and a bottle of iced lager. A resident band
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 | +84 8 3930 7627
of Saigon’s after-hours scene since it opened in
Dimly lit, tastefully decorated and with enough
1925. It is a popular spot for Saigon’s elites, and
instrumentation to power half an orchestra,
a live music favourite where the wealthy dance
Acoustic takes its sound very seriously – although
the night away in glittering heels. There’s a variety
it is a shame that this sound usually consists of
of musical genres from the sultry tango to the
quality top-40 covers. The talent that plays here
energetic rumba.
Saigon Ranger 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, D1 | +84 94 192 4388
Following a recent revamp, this once-legendary rock venue is now almost exclusively an EDM joint: dubstep, techno and house have all but replaced the punk, rock and hardcore shows that made Saigon Ranger what it was. However, if you keep your ears to the ground and wait for the right night, you might still get a chance to catch one of Saigon’s heavier acts that embody the soul of Saigon’s underground music scene.
YOKO 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3 | +84 8 3933 0577
Founded nearly two decades ago, YOKO is one Maxim’s
20 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
of Saigon’s most respected and established live
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
#iAMHCMC
music venues. This is a place for musicians to meet, perform and share their creative ideas. Most evenings artists put their own twists on classic songs, but other nights YOKO plays host to some unique international artists.
La Fenetre Soleil 44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | +84 8 3824 5994
With an eclectic mix of genres set in a gloriously quaint, post-colonial restaurant, La Fenetre Soleil oozes class. Jazz, soul, relaxed piano covers and blues bands are the staple here, but the venue occasionally plays host to punk, indie and rap nights. The atmosphere is generally relaxed, subdued and agreeable, and the crowd is varied
place will delight you. The appetisers are huge, so
With a broad and eclectic variety of musicians
and warm.
if you want a quick snack with your cosmopolitan,
performing every week, and superbly crafted theme
the bar snacks are well worth a look.
nights, special events and chill-out parties, Indika
Purple Jade
MZ
Chic, romantic and cosy, Purple Jade is one of the quieter music venues. If you want somewhere to sip an expertly crafted cocktail while enjoying the occasional saxophone or piano performance, this
creative scene. The Sunday afternoon sessions in particular are well worth checking out.
InterContinental Asiana Saigon | +84 8 3520 9999 Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan Boulevard, D1
has become the hangout of choice for Saigon’s hip
56A Bui Thi Xuan, D1 | +84 8 3925 5258
Top quality cover bands and a polished atmosphere
Rooftop Garden Bar
make MZ a hot live music venue. This is very much a party venue, and the music befits the purpose.
Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 | +84 8 3829 2185
The drinks are expensive and rumours of bar
Sporting a live band almost every day of the week,
girl scams abound, but the staff are generally
the historic rooftop that once served as the base
welcoming and accommodating and the wine list
for war correspondents during the American War
is well-curated. Worth a visit on a special occasion.
is now a tourist and resident hotspot featuring
Indika
some stellar drinks and entertainment. Mostly catering to the older demographic, the
43 Nguyen Van Giai, D1 | +84 122 399 4260
various bands play rock, flamenco, jazz and Latin
One of Saigon’s newer venues, Indika is a
songs to a cheerful crowd that occasionally stands
delightfully weird bar/restaurant experience.
up to sway with the musicians.
21
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT featureS
by Keith Hancock
Pick Your Poison: A Guide to HCMC’s Speciality Bar Scene Bitter With added Angostura bitters, it has a lovely freshness and just a hint of bitterness.
Peach and Strawberry Served with superb fresh fruit and an amazing hit of strawberry goodness, this one is very popular with the ladies.
Raspberry This is quite simply an explosion of fresh raspberry flavour. Plus, the mint is well-balanced and the rum provides just the right hit.
Mangojito My favourite fruit. I was worried that this might disappoint, but thankfully it absolutely did not. This has such a fantastic blend of flavours; nothing Level 23 Nightspot and Wine Bar
The speciality bars in Saigon cover a whole range of styles, drinks and cigars. They are a superb addition to the city’s nightlife and here we list some of the best. In addition to the wealth of craft beer bars, sports
Towers, the open-air section of this bar offers
bars, girlie bars, outside drinking dens and beer
wonderful views over the famous Nguyen Hue
clubs, Ho Chi Minh City plays host to a superb
promenade. It’s a light, airy space with opulent
array of speciality bars.
decor and lovely lighting. The extensive wine list
These are the bars that have captured people’s hearts for serving up speciality drinks or offering something a little bit different. Always more upscale, these bars and restaurants cater to many of the more well-heeled expats in town and the ever-increasing Vietnamese middle class, who like to work hard and play hard. While some are in high-end hotels, some call high-rise towers home and others are in smaller, quirkier venues. They all have one thing in common, though – they truly excel.
Level 23 Nightspot and Wine Bar Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers | 88 Dong Khoi, D1 +84 8 3827 2828 | 12 p.m. to 12 a.m.
holds such delights as Penfolds and Koonunga Hill Riesling. Aged six months in oak barrels, the Altos De Plata from the Argentinian border near Chile has a delightfully fresh, full taste. The Nederburg is a superb South African Shiraz with rich chocolatey notes, firmly suited to accompany a good cigar. The Chilean Casillero Del Diablo Pinot Noir is supremely smokey – a very good wine. However, this 23rd storey treat reaches new levels with the new Iconic Mojitos. Eight superb flavours grace the menu, leaving guests with the enviable task of choosing the right one for their palate. They are all wonderful:
Classic
Situated on the 23rd floor at the top of the
Bursts with citrus and rum flavours and just the
prestigious 5-star Sheraton Saigon Hotel &
right amount of mint.
22 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
dominates and all shine through.
Spicy A punch of chilli and a kick of alcohol – what a combination!
Passion Fruit If you like passion fruit you will love this. I was quite surprised at how well this iconic tropical fruit lends itself to the classic Cuban drink.
Bubble A classic mojito completed with one part sparkling wine, this one creeps up on you. It’s strong on alcohol and flavour. Better yet, groups can indulge in XXL versions of these superb Mojitos: they come in a classic ice bucket with a number of straws to suit the group. A special mention has to be made of the molecular cocktails that will make an entrance in 2017. Look out for the fabulous bubble-fuelled gin and tonic!
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
#iAMHCMC
Sorae Restaurant Lounge 24th and 25th Floors, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai Street, D1 +84 8 3827 2372 | Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner & Lounge: 5:30 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Well known as a top Japanese restaurant, Sorae has been carving out a niche and drawing a loyal clientele to its two-floor venue for over two years. The sushi here is arguably the best in the city. However, not quite as well-known is the fact that it houses four beautiful speciality bars at the same time: whisky, wine, sake and beer are all superbly Sorae
represented at four separate stations: sake and beer on the 24th floor, wine and whisky on the 25th.
The Champagne Corner
The Saigon Cigar Club
The whisky menu is well done, covering single malt scotches and Japanese and American classics. They
The Caravelle Hotel | 19 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1 +84 8 3823 4999 | 7 a.m. to midnight
24th Floor, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, D1
have chosen wisely to bring a balance of styles
+84 90 242 6976 | 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.
and flavours to their patrons. Stroll across the
The Champagne Corner is on the ground floor of
As one would expect from a bar that is situated
the 5-star Caravelle Hotel, on the corner adjacent
on the 24th floor of one of the city’s prestigious
to the Opera House. The large window facing Dong
towers, The Saigon Cigar Club is somewhat
Khoi has bubbles constantly running through it
exclusive. Large comfortable leather seats, rich
to represent, of course, the bubbly. Contracted to
woodwork, subdued lighting and soft lounge music
Moët & Chandon and renewing their relationship
is the order of the day at The Saigon Cigar Club.
next year, this is a lovely high-class corner of the
Offering spectacular views of the west side of the
downstairs area. The live lounge music creates a
city, the floor-to-ceiling windows are a huge plus.
lovely ambiance and a truly delightful space in which to enjoy a glass of champagne for breakfast,
mezzanine level from the whisky bar and the vibe in the wine bar is younger and more vibrant. This is a fun environment, with large windows looking out over three aspects of the city. Soft house music provides a cool ambiance and the cellar is incredibly well-stocked. For sake connoisseurs, Sorae has a superb variety to choose from at their bar. Unlike the other bars, you don’t take a seat – it’s more of a serving station for Sorae’s diners.
Skewers Restaurant
lunch, after work or into the evening. Cafe De L’Opera is the main bar here with
9 Thai Van Lung, D1 | +84 8 3822 4798
Tapas Kitchen serving classic Spanish food with
11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
a Vietnamese twist. In the Champagne Corner,
Skewers has been in operation for 16 years, opening
though, each glass is served with a complimentary
in July 2000. The kitchen prepares Mediterranean
small plate of exquisite food: smoked salmon with
comfort food and the restaurant creates a very
potatoes and caviar, oysters, and anything else that
warm atmosphere. The lovely decor is augmented
the chef feels like creating.
by creative lighting and a very good wine list: it carries approximately 200 labels and has been
Just a little more than an amuse-bouche, it is always the perfect accompaniment to the main
With the air of an old colonial gentleman’s club,
attraction – the champagne. The well-thought-out
This is a wonderful addition to the speciality bars
drinks menu has eight different champagnes
of Ho Chi Minh City. After two-and-a-half years
and six champagne cocktails. This was the first
at this location, it’s now firmly established in the
champagne bar in the city, and it shows in the fact
city. The club’s own house cigars are hand-rolled
that they have completely nailed it.
in-house by a Cuban woman who used to work at the Cohiba factory, rolling some of the most respected cigars in the world. All other cigars are imported from Cuba, including vintage cigars which have been aged for at least 10 years. This is serious cigar territory.
listed in Wine Spectator. It is, however, the terrific scotch list that catches the eye. This must be the largest collection of single malts in the city, with more than 50 bottles of the golden drop. Any bar that stocks Auchentoshan Three Wood is more than alright by me. Bruichladdich Octomore is another serious contender, a peaty Islay malt that you will not find every day. In addition to the restaurant on Thai Van Lung, Skewers also operates the Saigon Single Malt Club at its sister restaurant, The Elbow Room
Members can rent their own humidor at the club
on Pasteur. This meeting takes place on the third
to ensure perfect conditions, whilst being linked
Thursday of each month and has been running
to Sorae ensures superb drinks and food.
for over a decade. 23
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT featureS
by Keith Hancock
Whiskey & Wares 196 De Tham, Cau Ong Lanh, D1 | +84 163 279 4179 4:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. (soon to start opening earlier)
I simply love this place, which is nothing more than a small hole in the wall just over the road from Pham Ngu Lao – it just rocks. The name comes from the fact that it sells whisky, artwork, trinkets and the like. The atmosphere is one of friendship and fun. An eclectic clientele by Roman Poed
are making this their local spot, and while the bar serves a few of the city’s finest craft beers, it is the 30 or so top-drawer whiskies that capture the heart. The owner and bartender, Derek, is a superb host and is building something really special here. The bar has started moving into the cocktail market, and how! These are not your usual cocktails, with Cilantro Coco (weird and truly wonderful) and Lemongrass Collins popping out of the menu. It is, however, the whiskies that truly make this place.
Cuba la Casa del Mojito 91 Pasteur, Ben Nghe, D1 | +84 8 3822 7099 3 p.m. to 3 a.m. daily
Cuba la Casa del Mojito creates an immediate impact from the second you walk in and the joyous Latin music greets your ears – I loved it! There are dance classes twice a week (salsa on Mondays and bachata on Thursdays), when they remove the tables and create a great space for people to learn.
Auchentoshan Three Wood, that wonderful 12-year-old Speyside The Balvenie DoubleWood,
Their classic mojito is one of the best I’ve ever had:
Macallan and 16-year-old Lagavulin sit happily
it included a superb hit of three-year-old Havana
on the shelves alongside the top Japanese bottles
Club rum, which gave it a terrific balance: it had
of Hibiki and Yamazaki. Knob Creek, the superb
just the right amount of mint, and the perfect splash
Maker’s Mark and the celebrated Woodford
of soda to make it that much more refreshing.
Reserve (I really don’t get the popularity of this)
And let’s not forget about the Canchanchara, a
represent the bourbons, while the reliable Jameson
truly amazing mix of Brugal Anejo dark rum from
occupies the Irish contingent. This bar is one of
the Dominican Republic, which they mixed with
the great hidden gems of Saigon.
honey and lime. Wow!
The first Cuban chef in Vietnam has created a wonderfully authentic menu of traditional and modern takes on incredible Cuban food. These are great party plates to share with friends – superb tapas and a-la-carte mains. The best part is, this restaurant really does have the feel of Cuba, from the food to the drinks to the perfectly designed ambience. The clientele is probably split 50-50 between locals and expats, except for the dance nights, when the locals really come into their own. Seating is comfortable, too. It has plush bar stools and high tables near the door, which change to restaurant tables as you move through the bar. This gorgeous space ends with luxurious Chesterfields, where you can really camp out for a night with some goood drinks, good food and good company. This is a very well thought-out concept, and one of my favourites.
Cuba la Casa del Mojito
24 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
Le Padam - Cheese & Wine Bar
#iAMHCMC
The award-winning bartender has crafted 13 gin-infused house cocktails for your indulgence, and is ready to pour you one of their 24 stocked
230 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 | +84 9 0704 6281 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. (closed Tuesdays)
gins, including some true rarities to Vietnam like Ungava from Canada and Larios 12 from Spain.
The concept here is of a French wine bar from
To add to this assortment, 18 gin infusions are
cities like Paris or Lyon, where people can gather
on hand for you to experiment with, including
to drink a bottle of wine and eat a plate of cheese
flavours like lavender and butterfly pea, and lemon
before going to a restaurant. As often happens in
sorbet and cardamom.
France, one wine leads to another and eventually the restaurant gets forgotten in a pleasant mist. The ambience and the space is reminiscent of a French country town shop. The decor and indeed the toilets are quirky, and this bar does not take itself too seriously: it has fun and coerces the clientele to do the same. With large chalkboards advertising the deals, a minimalist approach to everything and friendly faces to welcome you, it is a worthy addition to the District 2 bar scene. All the cheeses are imported by the bar directly from
Aperitivo Bar
France and all the bread is baked in-house. The wines are all bought in Vietnam and, surprisingly, there are more Spanish choices than French. The top seller is an elegant, velvety Hacienda Rioja.
80 Xuan Thuy, D2 | +84 9 0862 4070 9 a.m. till late (closed Mondays)
The Italian owner, Attilio, has created a classic here. This is unlike anything else in the city, really.
The Gin House 28/3A Ton That Tung, D1 +84 9 1951 3264 | 5 p.m. to 4 a.m.
This is a really nice, small venue in a typical old Vietnamese side street. Its location provides it with a certain degree of exotic anonymity, and I have to say, I like it.
Starting out as a single shop unit, its success soon saw its size double. This is a bar that offers great gins, whiskies and wines to the expat-heavy clientele. It has a great ambience – laid-back and very continental. The food is exceptional, including a terrific panini and other Mediterranean goodies. Gins include such delights as The Botanist, Hendrick’s and my own personal favourite, Monkey 47. Aperitivo is
A small, well-stocked bar with about 10 bar
a great place to grab a snack during the day, and
stools, half a dozen high tables and one low table
it draws a great crowd in the evenings and into the
provide the Gin House’s locals with a good choice
night. Simply put, this bar has quickly developed
of seating.
into a firm favourite among the locals. 25
#iAMHCMC
entertainment featureS
by Aleksandr Smechovr
Saigon Nightclub Mix With such a dazzling array of nightlife choices in Saigon, it can be difficult to decide where you and your friends will throw your hat. Do you want outrageously loud techno? Cheaper prices with twice as much crowd? Rest assured, there’s a club in Ho Chi Minh City just waiting to give you a night to remember.
Lush
Lush
Lush
Is exclusivity your game? You can dash up one of two staircases to a tables-and-sofas-only area,
2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 | +84 8 3910 4199 | facebook.com/lushsaigon | 8 p.m. to late VND100,000 during ladies nights & special events EDM, Hip-Hop, Top 40 Mixed Crowd
Apocalypse Now
Medium Volume
Mediocre Toilets
OK English
While not the oldest in this list, Lush remains the quintessential nightspot in Ho Chi Minh City. Maybe some venues have flashier light systems or higher decibel levels, but none come as close to the true definition of a club as this multi-room, sensory-pleasing fundome. You are presented with three paths as you step through the wide-open metal doors. Stray off to the right to enter the underground-inspired room, full of grinning hipsters, drunk expats and croptopped, sweatpants-ed Vietnamese hip-hop girls swinging wildly to the beat. Do you want a shower of bass and party-hard dancers pumping the night away? Enter through the central doors and into the main arena, with a large central bar working hard to meet the demands of the patrons. 26 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
where your group of merry sinners can down a
2B Thi Sach, D1 | +84 8 3825 6124
bottle or five while enjoying an aerial view of the
facebook.com/apocalypsenowsaigon | 7 p.m. to 4 a.m.
main arena below.
Entry Fee Varies EDM, Top 40 Downstair, Latin, Hip Hop Mixed Crowd
With badass anime women and other eclectic art dousing the walls, a maze of LEDed areas each presenting a different personality, and laid-back management, Lush is one for the ages. Go there.
Mediocre Toilets
High Volume
OK English
The seedy grandaddy of the nightlife scene, Apo has been getting people wasted and wild for 25 years now, thanks in no small part to its shameless approach to the carnal desires of the after-hours crowd that haunts its presence.
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entertainment FEATURES
You have the downstairs area, with a nice little
avoids the grungy feelings of Apo in favour of
that note, the bathrooms have plenty of stalls and
garden area to the side where people go off to
refined hard partying. Live performances are
are kept immaculate.
make phone calls or chat, and the underworld
sensuous, fun, crazy and definitely flesh out the
of an arena. Everyone swarms around the raised
already-sleek atmosphere that just oozes cool.
DJ booth towards the end, leaving some legroom throughout the rest of the floor.
Canalis Club
Observatory 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 | +84 8 3925 9415 facebook.com/theobservatoryhcmc | 8 p.m. to 6 a.m.
Unfortunately, it is lined with ladies of the night
Free Entrance Before 11 a.m. VND150,000 After
beckoning patrons with soft touches or cliched
147 Hai Ba Trung, D1 | +84 16 6839 3969
Electronica
phrases. Upstairs is better, with a wide range of
facebook.com/canalisclub.vn | 8 p.m. to 5 a.m.
Mediocre Toilets
theme nights rotating every month. The music here
Free Entrance
EDM-fest
Vietnamese Crowd
Poor English
fun domains that put the downstairs house-light
Loud, intense, and very Vietnamese, this hyperbolic
tracklist to utter shame.
laser-fest is as Vina-house as you can get. Limited
jumping to ear-banging bass, head down towards the DJ booth, otherwise you’ll feel rightly comfortable shaking your thing in the more tasteful upstairs area.
Foreigner Crowd
Good English
Very High Volume
Clean Toilets
dips into hip hop, Latin, electronica and other
For those who like the feel of sweaty crowds
Medium Volume
dancing room, pricy tables and a suspended DJ cage with live dancers make this quite a spectacle, but little more than that. Volume is deafening to the point of texting your table friends. But if aesthetic raa-raa is for you, Canalis is all the lights, technics and cool effects you can ask for.
An expat-heavy, grungy, dark nightspot in District 4, this is a staple among the English-speaking community. More of a den than a flashy club, it waves a dirty finger at everything mainstream and instead opts to blast eclectic electronica other clubs wouldn’t touch, often featuring famous underground DJs. The small, cramped dancefloor is streaked with the shadows of tokers, hipsters, drunk travellers and the Viet hip-hop crowd, who dance with no
Play
Spark Nightclub
13th Floor, President Place Building, 93 Nguyen Du, D1
107 Pasteur, D1 | +84 96 999 1199
+84 93 800 7529 | facebook.com/playsaigon | 9:30 p.m. to 3 a.m.
facebook.com/sparknightclub | 9 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Free Entrance Refined Crowd
EDM, Electronic Clean Toilets
High Volume Good English
Entrance Fee Varies
EDM, Dance, Hip Hop
High Volume
Mixed Crowd
Clean Toilets
Good English
The club-subset of Glow Skybar, this posh little
reservations. This is the antithesis of see-and-beseen and if that’s your thing, throw on a ragged t-shirt and some Levis and head on over to the Observatory to stomp to some strange electronic music. As we see Ho Chi Minh City grow each year, nightlife is definitely one thing that grows with it. Gone are the days when drinking meant
pleasure den packs some serious volume. Leave
Previously the Iris Lounge, Spark has a welcome-
red stools, watery drinks and Tiger beers. But
your after-work conversations for the rooftop bar
everybody vibe with cushy seats, enough legroom
even better than the undeniable quality of these
and gather your friends around one of the plush
to walk around and groove, and crisp, pumping
bars is the variety of the entertainment each one
lounge seating areas for a night of miming and
music supported by trippy visuals from the screen
of them offers. Don’t worry about cookie-cutter
serious dancing. With stellar service for paying
behind the dancefloor. A fast-service bar is very
dance clubs in this city. Visit each one and be
patrons and a crowd to fit the budget, this one
willing to aid you with some liquid courage; on
prepared to get swept away.
27
#iAMHCMC
ENTERTAINMENT REVIEW
by Aleksandr Smechov
Live the Adventure: A New Way to Play in the City During our trial, a team of six from #iAMHCMC chose to enter Exodus, the most difficult of the rooms, where we played the role of slaves escaping the harsh conditions of Egyptian rule. The puzzles started off simple, then quickly progressed to challenging levels. The room was very well-designed: noise and touch sensors, automatic doors, lasers and hidden ceiling compartments all made the game quite immersive, integrating the puzzles into the story seamlessly. As far as team-building goes, this is a great way to go about
If you and your colleagues are looking for a good way to spend an evening, how about an live-action game? Just pick your adventure and enjoy the ride. You and your co-workers are brought out into
interrogation skills, as CSI and similar Ubiquest
a room with a TV. A moderator switches on the
games involve confronting live witnesses.
screen and an image of your boss appears, held hostage in an unknown location. Your mission: save him. Of course, it’s just a game. Live adventure has seen a marked increase in popularity lately. While Ubiquest stands apart for its uniquely immersive concept, quality escape room games like Lost HCMC Station have been popping up in shopping centres all over the city. Here’s a look at what’s on offer:
Ubiquest | ubi-quest.com
City that does not adhere to the “escape” concept, Ubiquest is a large-scale, cinematic experience for corporate clients looking to engage 100-200 employees in real-world action. From exploring the 1960s-era tunnels underneath the Reunification Palace to cruising on speedboats, this is an experience like no other. Founder Nicolas Plesse plays the gamemaster for all corporate events, guiding co-workers on one of 15 professionally organised adventures.
skills – managers take note. The themed puzzles involved various elements of ancient Egypt and the Hebrew language, periodspecific artefacts, hieroglyphics and, at one point,
Another corporate favourite is Saigon Quest,
shouting a chant for a full 30 seconds. There were
where physical and logical skills are put to the test
both English and Vietnamese language instructions
in order to find the location of an electronic safe.
and riddles, so our multinational team was able to
The adventure includes everything from eating
coordinate smoothly. If there is one escape game
scorpions to a market race and wall climbing.
to try in Saigon, it’s Lost HCMC Station.
A great side benefit of these games is that
Escape Room
teamworking, management and other professional abilities can be evaluated by Nicolas and his team, and the results later relayed to the executives.
Lost HCMC Station
5th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 escaperoom.com/ho-chi-minh | +84 8 5413 8341 / +84 8 5413 8342
You enter a blood-splattered space with limbs strewn about; a deranged psychopath has kidnapped you have 45 minutes to find a way
43 Street No.8, Binh An W, D2 | +84 8 6654 1430
The only live adventure game in Ho Chi Minh
testing cooperation, logic and problem-solving
VivoCity | Unit No. 03-02C, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 lostvn.com | +84 8 3771 0333
Patricia Lo, director of the Vietnam branch of this highly successful escape game, has developed quite a treat for puzzle-lovers and roleplayers. Lost HCMC Station is the best among the rising number of escape games, thanks to sizeable
out before his return. From carrying around sacks of dead bodies to listening to eerie recordings, the room embraces its concept well. It does rely a bit too much on finding combinations for locks, but otherwise this is a fun escape game.
Let Me Out
investment, clever puzzles, genuine teamworkbased solutions, high production values and
Lottemart Phu Tho | 968 Street 3/2 (corner of Le Dai Hanh and
enthusiastic gamemasters. Originating in Hong
Ba Thang Hai), D11 | letmeout.vn | +84 93 231 2712
Kong, the game’s success allowed it to spread to
A good 25 minutes from the city centre, Let Me
Singapore, Canada and several other countries.
Out is housed in a District 11 Lottemart. Although
One of the more popular games is CSI. Employees
only three rooms are offered, Let Me Out’s strength
go out on a murder investigation, finding drugs
It may be a bit hard to find on VivoCity’s third
is atmosphere. It does its themes justice in rooms
in rooms, coordinating chauffeured cars, piecing
floor. When you see Wall Street English at one
like Tunnel Escape, where your team (a group of
together evidence and identifying the killer.
end of the floor, head right to a further corner to
miners) is trapped underground with no food or
Players also have to be ready to show off their
locate Lost.
water, with oxygen quickly running out.
28 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
ADVERTORIAL
#iAMHCMC
Pexiga Viet Vape: A Vaper’s Haven in HCMC Quitting smoking can be one of the hardest things you do, but fortunately Pexiga Viet Vape is here to help. Come here for the e-cigarettes, but stay for the community! Quitting smoking is certainly one of the most common New Year’s resolutions across the globe. If you are one of the world’s current 1 billion smokers, here’s a sad statistic – only 6% of people who attempt to quit smoking actually succeed. Enter the age of the e-cigarette, also called the
57 Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan District | +84 93 333 5588 | facebook.com/pexigahcm | pexiga.business@gmail.com
vaporiser or simply “vape” for short – the latest craze of cigarette cessation equipment that has created its own sub-culture.
Helping You Get There
Palette-full of Flavours
testaments to Pexiga Viet Vape is that they Viet Vape is not a store that encourages customers to “purchase and get out”. Many customers relax
Making the decision to quit smoking is one of the hardest things a person may ever do, and it can feel like a lonely journey. So when a friend recommended Pexiga Viet Vape in Phu Nhuan District, I decided to give it a shot. This store and coffee shop was established in 2011 and has been consistently growing thanks to its outstanding customer service and huge range of products. With a heart full of motivation and a head empty of any knowledge about e-cigarettes, I took a deep breath and entered Viet Vape’s Coffee. I instantly found myself in a relaxed cafe, where people sat in groups chatting and laughing together. I looked around and saw the attentive workers on-hand and ready to offer product samples and answer any questions. The staff could sense my naivety and bewilderment at the e-juice and accessories
Besides their quality products, one of the great
there for hours, meeting new people who share their common interest. While I was initially only interested in tobacco flavours, after trying some of the new store flavours, my eyes were opened to why 15% of Viet Vape’s customers are people who have never smoked and actually use e-juice with no nicotine whatsoever. One of my favourite flavours turned out to be Cuttwood Boss Reserve, a mixture of peanut butter, honey and banana. Never in a million years did I think I would enjoy something like this, but you never know until you try. Pexiga Viet Vape currently offers a range of 100+ e-juice flavours from leading U.S. and Malaysian brands such as Naked, Kilo, BLAQ, Nasty Juice, Fcukin’ Flava and Moo E-Liquids. All of the products sold in-store are sourced directly from the manufacturer.
genuinely care about the success of their customers who want to quit smoking. They told me that over 50 customers who smoked 40 or more strong cigarettes a day are now totally smoke free after making the switch to vaping.
After Sales Service All devices from Pexiga Viet Vape come with a six-month manufacturer’s warranty. Pexiga goes one step further by offering a free replacement for any faulty devices within three months of purchase, along with a total of 15 months of free repair and replacement of faulty parts. This shows you their commitment to customer satisfaction and their confidence in their products. With new locations opening in 2017 in D2 and D1, Saigon’s vaper community is set to continue growing.
#iAMHCMC Deal
displayed before me. They put me at ease by asking if I would like a complimentary drink,
Exclusively for readers of #iAMHCMC, Pexiga
how I was doing and what I was looking for
Viet Vape offers a special deal that includes the
in the store. I told them honestly that I had
choice of one vape device (eGo ONE V2, Aspire
recently quit smoking, and within seconds the
PockeX or the Wismec Motiv) and a choice of any
staff had lined up three of the “beginner” models,
Malaysian e-juice for only VND899,000. Simply
explaining the pros and cons of each. After a few
mention “#iAMHCMC” at the shop to get the deal.
minutes, we came to the conclusion that the eGo ONE V2 model would be the best way forward,
You can receive a free membership card with any purchase over
and after trying it out I agreed.
chase for a 10% total discount.
VND1 million. Membership cards can be used from the second pur-
29
#iAMHCMC
FOOD Review
by Keely Burkey & Patrick Gaveau
A Dinner with Culinary Masters
The second Dinner de Chef took place at Romeo & Juliet, the Italian restaurant at the Reverie Saigon hotel, where diners discussed Vietnam’s changing food scene.
Saigon, who were lucky enough to experience these
the oven, the diners opened their bags and were
dishes first-hand at #iAMHCMC’s second Dinner
greeted with the heavenly aromas and tastes of
de Chef, an ambitious and delicious project sussing
the sea.
out the best culinary delights Ho Chi Minh City has to offer.
We all know that Romeo and Juliet, although set in Verona, was written by the very British William
from Italy, Chef Giovanni is something of a
Old Flavours, New Twists
Shakespeare. The Romeo & Juliet we’re talking about, however, couldn’t be more Italian. This restaurant, taking the name of the famous lovelorn duo, is the setting for another great romance, but this one is set entirely on the plate. Nestled underneath the 5-star Reverie Hotel (Level B1, 57-69F Dong Khoi Street, District 1), Romeo & Juliet makes the most of its auspicious location.
While the cortoccio was a traditional representation
At Romeo & Juliet, it’s obvious that taste is not the only sense Executive Chef Giovanni Parrella’s team is concerned about. Here it was about immersing all your senses, from the lounge and the elegant Venetian-inspired interiors, to the heavenly aromas emanating from every dish. Case in point: the cortoccio. Made with squid ink tagliolini and the freshest seafood at the local markets, the pasta
This fact was certainly driven home for some of
was cooked al dente and mixed with the seafood
the most well-known chefs and gastronomes in
in individual paper bags. After 10 minutes in
renegade. One of his goals when he opened Romeo & Juliet was not only to make beautiful Italian food, but to rethink it. He quickly learned that this wouldn’t be the easiest thing to do in Saigon. For Chef Giovanni, this lesson was learned with the ossobuco, the dinner’s fourth course. He told his guests,
“I chose this dish in particular because I got a lot of complaints about it [in the restaurant]. I got so many, I had to take it off the menu.” When he presented his take on the ossobuco – traditionally a slow-cooked beef shank served on the bone – the differences were immediately obvious. The beef here was shredded, and the bone marrow was carefully extracted and crusted with breadcrumbs. That night the new take on the old Northern Italian dish was well received, so much so that he’s now considering putting it back on the regular menu. I sincerely hope he does so. And now the tiramisu, a dish made right at the table. Donald Berger, the Chef Patron of Don’s Bistro in Hanoi (16 Lane 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi) in particular was enthralled by the concept:
30 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
FOOD review
“I have tiramisu in my restaurant, and I chill it for three hours. This one was completely novel. I would have never thought of it!” To start, the chef mixed a pasteurised egg (no risk of salmonella here) with a few other magic ingredients in a CO2 cartridge – a siphon, if you want to get technical – to make the mascarpone mousse. Add the espresso-drenched lady fingers and a sprinkling of locally sourced cocoa powder, and you’ve got yourself a beautiful dessert. The star of the show, however, was undoubtedly the second course: the onion soup. Although it sounds humble, rest assured, this was no ordinary onion soup – it came straight from the memories of Chef Giovanni, who reminisced, “I remember it from the wintertime, when I would go to my grandmother’s house. She had this big pan with crushed charcoal that she used to heat the house. Grandma would take the onion wrapped with aluminum foil and toss it in the ash and leave it there all night.” In the morning, Grandma Parrella would peel off the aluminum foil, core the cooked onion, and use the insides to make the onion soup. Once the soup was ready, she would use the outer onion as the soup bowl. And this is exactly what Chef Giovanni did for Dinner de Chef. Of course, he did update it: to give
Pairs that Belong Together
#iAMHCMC
meringue, pastries and candied citrus peel, it made for a good start to the dinner.
While this food was extraordinary, not to discuss the wine would be like leaving out Juliet in
The New Tastemakers
Shakespeare’s ultimate love story. For dishes as exquisite as these, only a true expert could be trusted with the job. Good thing Mirko Traini, sommelier extraordinaire from Rubyred (206 Nguyen Van Huong, D2), was up to the challenge. For example, to best suit the delicate onion soup, he chose the Ciù Ciù Merlettaie Offida D.O.C.G. Pecorino. Grown on the slopes of Piceno Apennines, not far from where Mirko himself grew up (“I’m particularly proud of it,” he beamed), this Pecorino was fermented in medium-sized barrels and aged for six months. It proved soft, fresh and completely agreeable. With only 5,000 units of the wine produced a year, this was truly a special moment of the night. The sparkling jewel of the dinner was, fittingly, a sparkling wine, the 2010 Bellavista Alma Gran Cuvee Franciacorta Rose. Even with a table full of
The conversation was just as scintillating as the dishes. Among the myriad topics discussed, everyone agreed that Vietnam, and especially Saigon, was in a period of deep culinary change. Chef Giovanni said he felt this change intensely. “When we opened in 2014, we went through a difficult time,” he told everyone. “Everybody only knew pizza and pasta. We started educating people.” Since then, he’s seen his business at Romeo & Juliet increase 30-fold. Donald Berger, who has lived and worked in Vietnam for 17 years, agreed.
“The culinary scene has changed an awful lot. There’s more quality now, more ingredients. Vietnamese customers are more accepting, and they’re quite sophisticated,” he mused.
gourmands, this wine surprised all. Anna Barcela, the Director of Food and Beverage of the Reverie
When asked what changes he expected to see in
Saigon, couldn’t believe the wine was Italian.
the future, he responded, “Probably a lean towards organic and sustainable food. You’re starting to see
“It tasted like a French champagne to me,” she gushed. “I was so surprised. I love champagne; I drink it all the time. I actually ordered six bottles of it from my wine supplier after the dinner.”
it that high-class touch, Chef Giovanni served this masterpiece on a bed of rock salt and accompanied
There’s a good reason why it’s so similar to
it with a slice of 24-month aged Parma ham. But
champagne: Bellavista uses the method of
don’t get your hopes up when you visit Romeo &
traditional champagne preparation, but with
Juliet yourself: this is a dish Chef Giovanni served
Italian grapes. With a creamy, almost crunchy
specially for these lucky diners.
sensation that embraces hints of sweet, ripe fruit,
a lot of that now, but not much. You’ll probably see that in the future, especially when it comes to beef and seafood.” But the question remains: in a country that has valued traditional styles of cooking for so long, is it possible that the restaurant industry is moving too fast? The diners at Dinner de Chef, for their part, remain optimistic. Patrick Gaveau, the CEO of Innovo JSC, went further. “It’s important for chefs to go to dinners like these, too,” he said.
Romeo & Juliet | Level B1, 57-69F Dong Khoi, D1 | +84 8 3823 6688 | Dress code: Smart casual or business attire. No children under 12
“When a chef goes to a restaurant, he goes there with a purpose. He goes there to discover something. Because a chef needs to analyse everything to see if there’s something he can learn. That’s the job of the chef.” In Vietnam, whose restaurant scene has undergone tremendous change very quickly, chefs and patrons are learning from each other. However, if the future of Saigon’s restaurant scene includes more places like Romeo & Juliet, it has some exciting meals in store. 31
#iAMHCMC
EDUCATION feature
by Frank B. Edwards
Soul Man: Mark Bell Fine-Tunes Saigon’s Music Classes dance troupe known as The Young Lyricist, whose members serve as inspirational ambassadors of the arts for young Vietnamese. Mark understands the rewards of musical success as well as the sacrifices parents make for their families. The youngest of six children whose father worked three jobs, Mark was allowed to take piano lessons after a neighbour realised he was teaching himself music by replicating her young daughter’s weekly lessons. During a summer job cutting grass at a famous Catholic institution near his village home, he met a Jesuit brother who taught him to play the church’s classic pipe organ. A few years later, at age 16, he smpaa.edu.vn
We visit SOUL Music and Performing Arts Academy, where children and adults learn the arts of music and dance on evenings and weekends.
became the organist at Canada’s famous National Martyrs’ Shrine in Huronia – and its director of music, a position he held through high school and university. At 24, Mark was made executive coordinator of music for Pope John Paul II’s visit to bless the shrine. Part of his job was to amass
Six days a week, Canadian educator Mark Bell
Now in its fifth year, the Soul Academy is the
a 700-voice choir for the visit that attracted a
rides a scooter to District 3’s SOUL Music &
brainchild of 33-year-old Thanh Bui, an Australian-
congregation of 70,000.
Performing Arts Academy (SMPAA), determined
born Vietnamese pop star who moved his musical
to change the course of music lessons in HCMC.
career to HCMC in 2010. A natural teacher with
His strategy is simple: teach children to play music by winning their hearts instead of rapping
no formal training, Thanh recruited Mark to strengthen the teaching credentials of his academy.
Later, Mark filled his spare time as a church organist, where he directed community and church choirs in Toronto, and studied to become a teacher before becoming a principal. Today his
their knuckles. Midway through his first year as
They met by chance at District 7’s Canadian
passion is teaching children to sing and SMPAA is
principal of the revolutionary music school, the
International School, where Mark was the
giving him the chance to work directly with young
56-year-old church organist, choral leader and
elementary principal. Having arrived early to speak
singers again. He and Thanh are influencing a new
passionate teacher is excited about his mission to
at a rhinoceros conservation rally, Thanh was
style of popular music by moving students away
shape a new generation of Vietnamese musicians
invited to wait in Mark’s office. It didn’t take long
from the popular Korean sound that has saturated
by teaching them in a softer and friendlier fashion.
for Thanh to discover his host’s passion for music
the country.
He calls his courtyard campus at 214-216 Pasteur an oasis for children where they can study music and dance in a way that will inspire them throughout their lives. There are no teacher tantrums here, and the only raised voices heard are those lifted in song.
“While we’re teaching music and the arts, we’re also developing a generation with a different outlook and way of being,” he says. “Yes, we’re informal but (also) formative. It’s about celebrating where you are and where you can be.” Mark Bell 32 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
education. Meanwhile, Mark learned of his young
on as full-time principal of the academy.
“We’re training people who want to be professional musical performers in this country,” Mark says. “And maybe do it in a different way... we are definitely rooted in Vietnam and Vietnamese culture.” - Mark Bell
Today, SMPAA has about 600 students from age
Taking a visitor on a tour of the Soul Academy,
four to adult, studying voice, instrumental music
Mark points out the encouraging slogans and
and dance in the evenings and weekends. While
quotes that adorn the walls. He pauses at a neon
much of the curriculum is contemporary, classical
sign that spells out “Soul Live Project”.
visitor’s pop-star status when the students went ballistic as Thanh entered the school auditorium. Months later, Mark agreed to run an educational training course for the musicians Thanh had recruited as SMPAA teachers, and later signed
training is also offered. Students wanting a taste of public performance can audition for a number of enrichment programs, including a popular
“That’s what it’s about,” he muses. “It’s all about soul.” - Mark Bell
by Dr. Mason Cobb
HEALTH feature
#iAMHCMC
Unraveling Vietnam’s Health Myths When you’re travelling to a new country, health concerns should always be the priority. Dr. Mason Cobb unravels some of the prominent health myths in Vietnam. Most of us find visiting or living in Vietnam
prepare food at home, you are unlikely to contract
Likewise, some still think that prophylactic
fascinating and somewhat exotic – we start out
parasites. If you are an adventurous eater of street
ciprofloxacin is needed to prevent “Delhi belly”
as strangers and listen to all the advice we can.
food or go off the beaten track for meals, taking
diarrhea from the water – this is really not
However, the “Bamboo Telegraph” has many
albendazole or other relatively nontoxic worm
necessary. Just use good judgment.
truths and many myths. This applies particularly
medicine (anthelmintic) every six months is not
well to healthcare. Here are some myths and some
a bad idea.
truths about taking care of yourself and your
Myth: Acute life-threatening emergencies are not Myth: You need more vaccines handled quickly. than a dog in a bat cave.
Myth: Zika virus is a horrible epidemic in Vietnam.
family in Vietnam.
There have been a few cases and the disease is endemic to Vietnam. That said, it seems to be contained and unusual. However, protection
This is unfortunately true. Medically, effective
against mosquito bites, especially if pregnant, is
Yes, there are some vaccines that are helpful,
treatment for stroke or a heart attack must occur
good advice. If you have had sexual relations with
such as Hepatitis A and B. You and your family
within 90 minutes of the onset of symptoms.
someone who might have Zika, take precautions
should have all the basic vaccinations, no matter
Unfortunately, even in the private sector, just
when interacting with others who may be pregnant.
where you live. These include pneumococcus,
the wallet biopsy may require that much time.
If you contract a fever, general fatigue, a headache,
diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis, measles-mumps-
Frankly, if you have brittle diabetes, uncontrolled
and develop a rash, you should get tested.
rubella, varicella, Hib, flu, HPV, polio, shingles,
high blood pressure, or a history of ongoing heart
and meningococcus.
disease or stroke, you need to think carefully about
However, unless you’re a veterinarian (or going on patrols in the jungle), you do not need a rabies vaccination. Your kids need to know to report any animal bites and then the series of post-event vaccinations can be safely done on a case-by-case
a prolonged stay in Vietnam. If you are generally healthy of heart and nervous system, however, Vietnam is a great place to be.
Myth: The water can kill you.
basis.
Myth: Any food is suspect, so look out for worms and toxins. Get dewormed every 6 months. Again, mostly false, although Vietnam’s wonderful fruits and veggies have unknown insecticides
Myth: Dengue fever is a huge problem. This one is a true. Dengue is a problem. There were 64 deaths in a recent year, though out of about 95 million people, so it’s not a major source of mortality. Regardless, the disease incidence should
A wise man once said, “the best lie is 99% true”. Yes, you can get all manner of pestilence from the water. No, it is not unsafe in major cities for things like showering and brushing your teeth.
give you concern. If you develop a high fever and purple bruising, be sure to seek help immediately.
Restaurants rarely serve unsafe water and the old
The “bamboo telegraph” mythology is long and
practice of selling tap water in fancy bottles has
colourful. Hopefully some of this health advice
gone the way of the armies of men peeing on
will be of some use in this beautiful and generally
the walls.
safe country.
and fertilizers, and “organic” may only mean “more expensive”. While there are many aspects of healthcare in Vietnam that may not be at the standard of your home country, Vietnam is a world leader in public health. Now the Ministry of Health has made a great push for food safety. If this is at their usual standard for public health measures, our food will be even safer. That said, if you are mostly in the cities, eat at restaurants with good reputations and carefully 33
#iAMHCMC
travel REVIEW
by Jamie Gregory
Novotel Phu Quoc Resort
Read our candid review on our stunning experience at the recently 5-star rated Novotel Phu Quoc Resort, located right by the island’s famous Long Beach. I was lucky enough to be invited to the Novotel
time in sampling some of the freshest squid, shrimp
Phu Quoc Resort for a media familiarisation,
and scallops I have tasted in Vietnam. I’m not a
and can truly say that it was an unforgettable
big lunch eater, and diligently restricted myself
experience.
to a frugal three plates. My favourites were the
At the airport arrivals hall we were greeted by the Novotel shuttle bus for the 9 km journey to the resort.
seafood curry, Hungarian potato salad, seafood pasta and the refreshing variety of salads.
Pina Coladas by the Pool
It now being lunchtime, the group was told
by the pool, I think I may have not left the room for the rest of the stay. The suite featured a separate living room, standing bathtub, rainfall shower and a double-sized balcony with spectacular views over the pool, surrounding villas and all the way to the Long Beach area. The design of the resort aims to maintain the feel of a traditional Phu Quoc fishing village, with the smallest beachfront buildings being the One Bedroom Villas with private pool that resemble traditional fishing huts. Away from the beach, the buildings become progressively larger until
that we would be having lunch after a quick
After a satisfying lunch, we were given an
freshen-up. It’s the little things that make a big
opportunity to relax and enjoy the resort’s
difference, so the complimentary fruit platter
facilities. First stop for me was a quick retreat
On my way to the beach, I passed the spa and
with personalised welcome message and bag
to my room to get some work done. I was lucky
decided to grab a nice cold drink at the beach
with some local specialities provided a sense of
enough to have been given a Superior Suite on
bar to enjoy while sunbathing. There I noticed the
personal service for such a large resort. After a
the third floor. If it wasn’t for the sun shining in a
fantastic range of homemade ice creams for only
quick rainfall shower and change of clothes it was
cloudless-sky and the temptation of a pina colada
VND40,000 per scoop. Being adventurous with
time to come to grips with what else the Novotel Phu Quoc Resort had to offer.
First Culinary Impressions Seated at a lovely pool-view table in the all-day dining restaurant, Food Exchange, it was time for the indulgence to begin. Food Exchange offers an extensive buffet selection as well as an a la carte menu. There were many stations around the restaurant serving Western, Asian and Vietnamese fare, with the famous Phu Quoc seafood featured in many of them. As a seafood lover, I wasted little 34 | iamhcmc.com/gazette
you reach the main building housing 366 rooms.
travel REVIEW
ice cream flavours, I tried the blackcurrant and
served a scoop of the homemade vanilla ice cream
Phu Quoc pepper. It first gave the tongue a kick of
served on a bed of honey-drizzled mango and a
the hot pepper, then instantly soothed by the cold
master-crafted sugar tuile, which again sparked
blackcurrant creaminess. Perched on a lounger
the table back into conversation.
#iAMHCMC
under the merciful shade of a well-manicured palm tree, I enjoyed a few hours of swimming, relaxing and reading – an idyllic afternoon.
A Sunset to Remember
Champagne Breakfast The following morning, we received an a la carte champagne breakfast back at the Phu Quoc Seafood Restaurant. Not being one for morning
As the sun began to set, we were lured to the
alcohol, I started the day with my routine ca phe
beach-bar area by the enchanting melody of the
sua da while enjoying the fresh fruit platter.
in-house band that performs six nights a week. We were treated to some simple yet delicious Vietnamese-inspired canapés to accompany a few glasses of wine whilst watching one of the most spectacular sunsets I have ever seen.
Seafood Sampler
A Sunday breakfast in a 5-star hotel on Phu Quoc is always a treat and this was no different. After considering a few options, I settled for one of my favourites (which, no matter how hard I try, I have never been able to perfect at home): eggs Benedict. Being from Scotland, my preferred accompaniment
Duong Bao Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc
would have been smoked salmon, but sadly I was
h9770@accor.com | +84 7 7626 0999 | www.novotel.com/PhuQuoc
informed that it was not available. An alternative That night we would be dining al fresco at the
offer of smoked ham turned out to be a more than
they felt ticklish and made me giggle like a little
beautiful Phu Quoc Seafood Restaurant. Sampling
suitable substitute.
schoolgirl; even the therapist, Ms. Huong, had a
the island’s best catch is obligatory for any selfrespecting seafood-lover. We were each given a cold, refreshing towel scented with lemongrass and ginger, which truly awakened the senses.
As most of the group were booked on earlyafternoon return flights, the hotel organised a
Some people might feel the prices here are high
whistle-stop tour of Ho Quoc Pagoda and the
compared to their normal VND250,000 massage
famous Phu Quoc Market.
in a local Ho Chi Minh City spa, but you cannot
For starters, we were silver-served a tangy salad followed by a smooth and creamy lobster bisque. After selecting our items from the a la carte menu, they were exquisitely presented on a sharing platter. Shrimp, squid, scallops, whole crab and cobia (also known as black salmon) were all on offer, but my hands almost subconsciously reached first for the Oysters Kilpatrick, which didn’t disappoint.
chuckle to herself.
compare hamburgers with Kobe beef. Novotel
Massage After two strenuous days of relaxing, sunbathing, wining and dining, it was now time to relieve those niggling aches and pains with a rejuvenating massage at the hotel spa. I decided to go for the sports massage and a facial. The massage was
A very relaxed and conversation-filled meal
exactly what the doctor ordered: firm, focused and
ensued, enjoyed at a leisurely pace with some of
just the right amount of time spent on each area.
the group beginning to fall into a siesta in the large,
This was my first ever facial, and I couldn’t stop
comfy chairs. To round off the evening, we were
laughing when the products were being applied:
Phu Quoc Resort has searched far and wide to employ only the most highly skilled professionals. My masseur at the spa, Mr. Quy, has 15 years’ experience in the industry and was hired from Saigon. My therapist has six years’ experience and relocated from Binh Thuan. For me, anything to do with your body and well-being should focus on quality over price. I’m sure we’ve all heard about someone’s horror massage that left them walking like the hunchback of Notre Dame.
What Could be Improved With an unobstructed view of the sky and ocean, my room enjoyed the sun non-stop from dawn till dusk. Even with the A/C on maximum setting and net curtains drawn to block direct sunlight, it felt too warm. However, when the sun relented on the second day, so did this small issue. On the first night of our stay, the hotel was hosting four corporatefunction events entailing a gala-dinner and musical entertainment, which can be a bit noisy if you are in relaxation mode. 35
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