E E SSAIGON ot sgniht editor's note
10 Reasons Why I Live in Vietnam There are 10 reasons why I have called Vietnam my home for the past decade, and why I’ll call it home for years to come. Let us begin with the people. The Vietnamese are their country’s greatest asset. Having lived here for 10 years, I know that most are Kind at heart. You only have to get onto the streets to know this – just walk and count how many open, honest smiles you share with passing strangers before you reach your destination. And then, the Vietnamese are Generous. My local family hosts us too often, and they love doing it. We never leave the house without receiving a gift. They always offer me the best food – the nicest cut of meat, the freshest vegetables, the thickest spring roll. With generosity comes hope, and for most Vietnamese, life is better now and it will get better soon. There is hope in the eyes of every parent and child that we meet. This buoyant Optimism is rather contagious and those who don’t feel it won’t survive long in this country. You see for so many, life is hard in Vietnam, and without optimism, life can be impossible. Hard Work is part of everyday life here – in the lives of the young and the old; of the farmers and the street sellers; of those who work 24/7 to feed their families. It is this iron work ethic that produces inner strength and Resilience. Vietnam has been invaded by some of the greatest and most powerful civilisations in history, their sovereignty threatened again and again, and every time they have come out as the victors. Yet they are humble and magnanimous about it.
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editor's note
A sense of family values gives way to a Respect for others, and this respect, especially for elders, is an essential part of Vietnamese culture. A Confucian value deeply rooted in Vietnamese society, true respect for elders and for teachers is both expected and celebrated in Vietnam.
things SAIGON to SEE
Possibly this attitude can be attributed to culture. The core of Vietnamese society is the strength of its Family Values, an intrinsic part of Vietnamese philosophy. It was in Vietnam that I discovered the true meaning of family values; here we learn to live with the family, by the family and for the family.
The Vietnamese also hold a deep respect for Education, and for the educated. People of all ages in Vietnam pursue their education as far as they can. My sister-in-law began her PhD at 40 and her husband, who is 47, just graduated with a master’s degree. Both have full-time jobs and they never complained about their lack of leisure time. Perhaps as a product of their respect for each other and for education, the Vietnamese people embrace Tolerance. There are 54 ethnic minorities in this country and different religions abound, all coexisting without conflict. Religious activities often span multiple belief systems. It is not uncommon to see a Christian praying at the Buddhist temple or vice versa. Finally, anyone who has lived here long enough will recognise that this country is Safe. Petty crime does exist due to poverty, but severe crime is rare thanks to a complete ban on arms, and thanks to a strong police force and army who do not tolerate disorder and violence. I hope these 10 reasons will inspire you to explore this beautiful country further, and help you discover your own special reasons why Vietnam is a place you’ll never forget. Patrick Gaveau, Founder & CEO citypassguide.com
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E E SSAIGON ot sgniht table of contents
front MATTER 10-14 introduction 10-11 24/48 hours 12-13 quick start 14 things to SEE 15-38 district 1 16-28 district 2 29 district 3 30-31 districts 5, 6 & 10 32-33 district 9 & 10 34 district 7 36 best of 37-38 where to EAT 39-58 local 40-43 local & international 44 international 45-53 further suggestions 54-57 special offers 58 where to DRINK 59-72 coffee 60-61 craft beer 62-63 bars & lounges 64-71 night clubs 72-73 live music 74 where to SHOP 75-90 souvenirs 76-82 fashion 83-85 malls & markets 86-87 shopping streets 88-89 further suggestions 90 where to STAY 91-96 introduction 92 hotels 93-95 further suggestions 96
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127-137 126-127 128-129 130-131 132-133 134-135
where to VISIT day trips mekong delta southern coast phan thiet & mui ne phu quoc nha trang con dao da lat
table of contents
113-126 114 115-116 117-118 119 120-121 122-123 125 126
things SAIGON to SEE
things to DO 97-112 98-100 tours 101 entertaiment 102-103 spas & beauty 104-107 for kids 108-112 activities
MAPS districts 1 & 3 districts 1, 5 & 10 district 7 districts 2 & binh thanh tan binh & phu nhuan districts
need to KNOW 138-160 140-141 vietnam fact sheet 142 price guide 143 climate 144-148 things to keep in mind 149 visas and public holidays 150 money 151 internet and phones 152 communication 153-154 health 155-157 travel 158-159 history 160 embassies & consulates
citypassguide.com
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EOUR E S otTEAM s g n i ht
Welcome to Vietnam
meet the team
Hanoi
Cat Ba Island Vietnam Hoang Sa Archipelago Vietnam
Danang
Phu Quoc Island Vietnam
Saigon Con Dao Island Vietnam
Truong Sa Archipelago Vietnam
What's on the Cover? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------As a traveller in Vietnam’s energetic Saigon, there are very few places more commonly frequented than the bustling Ben Thanh Market. Situated in the ward of the same name in the heart of Saigon’s central District 1, Ben Thanh Market is never a dull choice, even after more than 100 years of operating. With its inside labyrinth of vendors during the day and outdoor walking street markets at night, you can expect to find all manner of items on sale here. Probably most famous for souvenirs, Ben Thanh Market is also packed with stalls of clothing, accessories, footwear, jewellry, household goods, luggage, coffee, all manner of food, and plenty more. Although Vietnamese vendors can be notoriously challenging in a negotiation situation, do not be afraid to haggle in a friendly manner and remember that if the price is too good to be true, the item’s authenticity is probably not! 6
OUR TEAM
Patrick Gaveau
Anna Hoang
Customer Service & Account Manager
Huong Pham
Traffic Coordinator
Benjamin Giroux Co-Owner
Arik Jahn
Stefan Georg
Senior Technical Officer
Hang Tram Anh
Thao Dao
Personal Assistant to CEO
Hera Nguyen
Content Writer
Business Development Cordinator
Design Manager
Linh Huynh
Minh Huynh
Molly Headley-Benkaci
Admin Assistant
Accountant
meet the team
CEO
Content Manager
Nhu Tong
Marketing Assistant
Stuart Miller Senior Writer
Thomas Kervennic
Marketing Coordinator
Tran Ngoc My
Digital Marketing Assistant
MEET THE TEAM citypassguide.com
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EOUR E S otTEAM s g n i ht contributors
Molly Headley-Benkaci Editor From Canada to America to France to England to Vietnam, Molly has been lucky enough to live a nomadic life. Her obsession with words began at a young age with her grandfather. A passionate writer and teller of tales, he filled her world with adventure. After finishing her Master’s in Creative Writing at the University of Oxford, Molly followed in his footsteps. Personal insight: Molly was a professional contemporary dancer before heading back to university. Stuart Miller Content Manager Stuart’s love of written content was sparked as a young schoolboy expressing himself by writing stories or concocting poems in English class. A passion for sport and music allowed him to write in British local and national newspapers and, with a worryingly keen interest in grammar and many years of writing experience, it was natural to accept a role producing content for Innovo. Personal insight: Stu’s love of music plays out in real life as a regular DJ in Saigon - say hi if you see him! Hera Nguyen Design Manager A law school graduate turned self-taught artist, everything changed for Hera when she discovered the world of graphic design. From an interest in fashion, passion for graphic design bloomed. For Hera, life is an exercise in balance. When working, she likes to work hard. When not, you can find her cycling, walking or shopping. Personal insight: Hera is also a trained martial artist and enjoys practicing akido, one of the ancient Japanese martial arts. You've spotted a mistake? We've missed your favourite hidden-gem restaurant? Tell us at production@innovo.vn.
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Sales Benjamin Giroux | Co-Owner benjamin@innovo.vn Anna Hoang | Account Manager anna@innovo.vn Hang Tram Anh | BD Coordinator bda@innovo.vn
Editorial Molly Headley-Benkaci | Editor molly@innovo.vn Arik Jahn | Content Writer arik@innovo.vn Stuart Miller | Content Manager stuart@innovo.vn Mervin Lee | Writer & Photographer mervin@innovo.vn
While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any error or omissions it may contain. No part of this publication may be re-produced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.
Production Huong Pham | Traffic Coordinator production@innovo.vn Hera Nguyen | Design Manager design@innovo.vn
Information Technology Stefan Georg | Senior Technical Officer stefan@innovo.vn
Image Credits
info & licence
Patrick Gaveau | CEO patrick@innovo.vn Thao Dao | Personal Assistant to CEO eam@innovo.vn Minh Huynh | Accountant accountant@innovo.vn
thingsMATTER front to SEE
"We are the most credible content provider in Vietnam, producing locally developed, relevant media with a high client return."
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Our special thanks goes to the Center for Disability Research and Capacity Development (drdvietnam.org; facebook.com/drdvietnam) and the Bright Future Group's Accessible Tourism Project (dulichtiepcan.com; facebook.com/dulichtiepcan) for providing accessibility information for Saigon and Hanoi.
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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht introduction
Ho Chi Minh City’s History in a Nutshell Prior to the 17th century, Ho Chi Minh City was named Prey Nokor. It was a small port town under Cambodian rule until legendary army commander Nguyen Huu Canh led tens of thousands of Vietnamese to settle in the area in 1698. The town was renamed Sai Gon. The French initially came to Vietnam as traders and missionaries but eventually took over Sai Gon in 1859. They simplified the name to Saigon and made the city the capital of the colonial empire of Cochinchina. The city remained under colonial rule until France’s fall from power during World War II. In 1940, the Japanese occupied Saigon and remained until their surrender to the US in 1945. French troops 10
subsequently recaptured Saigon, triggering the First Indochina War. Brutal battles were fought between the French and their Viet Minh opponents until the International Geneva Conference in 1954, when North and South Vietnam were officially separated. Between 1955 and the Fall of Saigon in 1975, the city became the headquarters for US military operations during what is known in Vietnam as the American Resistance War or the Second Indochina War. On 30 April 1975, Saigon was recaptured by Vietnamese troops. A North Vietnamese tank broke through the gates of today’s Reunification Palace and became a symbol of victory for the Vietnamese People’s Army. The city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1976.
things SAIGON to SEE introduction
Ho Chi Minh City: A Bustling Metropolis Holding onto its Past Today, the city boasts an official population of around nine million. The capricious southern weather—a blend of harmony and chaos— reflects life in the city. Traffic is dense and never-ending, while the street life (and street food) is some of the best in the world. Sit down and enjoy the show! Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, but Ho Chi Minh City is its commercial heart and a magnet for foreign investors. The city is forecasted to become Asia’s second fastest growing economy by 2021. Today, new business ventures and ambitious development projects pop up at a dizzying rate. Progress aside, Saigon is steeped in tradition. Colonial architecture stands next to dilapidated, rickety
homes and modern skyscrapers. Whether zooming by on a motorbike or sipping designer cocktails at a rooftop bar, there is something to explore for every type of traveller. Foundation Date: 1698 Founder: Nguyen Huu Canh Renamed Ho Chi Minh City: 1976 Total Area: 2,096.56 km2 Population (2017): 8.45 million Population Density (2017): 4,000/km2 Area Code: 028 Governance: Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee Chairman of People’s Committee: Nguyen Thanh Phong Districts: 19 Urban Districts, 5 Suburban Districts GRDP (2016): $45.3 billion GRDP Per Capita (2016): $5,430 Minimum Wage (2017): $165 Main Industries: Trade, Tourism, Finance, Software, Construction citypassguide.com
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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht 24/48 hours
WHAT TO DO IN 24/48 HOURS? Day 1 Morning Had a long flight and can’t get any sleep? Head out to Tao Dan Park (p. 24) before sunrise and watch the Saigonese enjoying their morning fitness routines. Not an early bird? Start your day with a strong coffee at the hip L’Usine (p. 61) on Dong Khoi Street (p. 18). The Saigon Opera House (p. 18) is just across the street. Once you’ve taken a picture or two, head north on Dong Khoi Street until it turns into Cong Xa Street. There you’ll see the iconic Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 17), currently under renovation. Another 19th-century landmark is right next to it: Saigon’s French colonial-style Central Post Office (p. 17). 12
Craving a banh mi, pho (p. 40) or just a smoothie? Join Han Thuyen Street on the other side of the Cathedral and look out for Propaganda Vietnamese Bistro (21 Han Thuyen, D.1) on your left. Your next stop is the Reunification Palace (p. 18), legendary symbol of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. After some sightseeing, grab a ca phe sua da at the outdoor cafe located in the back of the palace gardens. Afternoon If you’re hankering for a full meal, try some rooftop fine-dining at Fish Sauce Restaurant (41 Le Duan, D.1) on Le Duan. The meal should give you strength for the intensity of the War Remnants Museum (p. 31). Afterwards, hop in a taxi and enjoy an artisanal hot chocolate courtesy of Maison Marou (p. 53). From there
Evening
The last sightseeing stop will give you a break from Saigon traffic. At the end of the cheerful hustle and bustle on Nguyen Hue walking street you’ll find the impressive City Hall (p. 19). If you still have some energy left, dance the night away at ITC Catwalk (p. 65). Day 2 Morning Start your day with a Western-style breakfast and artful coffee at L’Usine (p. 61). This time, take your time on Dong Khoi Street to browse and buy some souvenirs. For the fashion conscious pop into Metiseko (p.83) for clothing made from Vietnamese silk and organic cotton. Don’t miss the Couleurs d’Asie Gallery (p. 78) featuring selections from the famous photographer Réhahn. Get a Coconut Coffee at Cong Ca Phe (127 Bui Vien, D1) while you make your way up to the Botanical Gardens (p. 25). Skip the animal cages and enjoy the greenest spot in downtown Saigon. If you feel inclined, check out the National
Afternoon Walk to Belgo (p. 63) to get a great value Western three-course set lunch paired with cool craft beer or for some of the city’s finest seafood, taxi to Son Ngu Restaurant (70 Suong Nguyet Anh, D.1). From there, learn about traditional Vietnamese medicine at the FITO Museum (p. 34). Ask them for a tasting of their healthy tea assortment after perusing the collection. As the afternoon heat subsides, explore Chinatown (p. 32), most notably the Binh Tay Market (p. 34) and the Tan Son Hoi Quan and Nghia An Hoi Quan pagodas (p. 33).
24/48 hours
Grab a happy hour cocktail and stunning sunset views at Chill Skybar (p. 64), then appease your hunger in the secluded Mountain Retreat oasis (p. 43).
History Museum (p. 20) that is also located on the premises.
thingsMATTER front to SEE
a quick walk up Calmette Street will bring you to the Ben Thanh Market shopping frenzy (p. 20).
Evening Don’t miss the incredible acrobats performing in the AO Show (p. 101) at the Opera House. You can buy tickets at all major sightseeing spots or at the Opera House itself. Have a late dinner complete with breathtaking views of the sparkling city at Shri (72 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3) or SOHY (74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3). If you want to dig deeper into Saigon’s hip craft beer scene, Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p. 63) is the place to go. If you feel fancy rather than rustic, straighten your tie and get your infusion of electronic music and sterling cocktails at Qui Mixology (22 Le Thanh Ton, D1) to end your Saigon stay in style. citypassguide.com
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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht quick start
CONDENSED NEED TO KNOW Also see Need to Know on pages I-XXVI Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND): $1=VND23,250 (April, 2019) €1=VND26,744 ¥1=VND208 £1=VND30,631 AUD1=VND16,465 RUB1-VND391 HKD1=VND2,977 CAD1=VND17,460 Visas: A visa is generally necessary. However, there are 15-day visa waivers for several countries. Check beforehand. If you need one, apply a month in advance through travel agencies or online visa services. If you’ll be travelling outside of Vietnam, check to see if you’ll need a multiple-entry visa. Money: ATMs can be found all over the city. Credit cards are widely accepted, but it’s always a good idea to bring cash. The maximum amount you can withdraw is limited and fees apply. Dollars are not accepted. Mobile Phones: The most popular providers are Viettel, Mobifone and Vinaphone. Local SIM cards are cheap (starting from VND100,000 or $5 for data-only cards). You can buy them at the airport or any official mobile network store. Time: Indochina Time Zone (UTC+7 hours)
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Plugs & Adaptors: 220V, 50Hz. American type A plugs and plugs with two round pins usually work without an adaptor. Tipping: Not expected on the street, yet becoming common in fancier bar and restaurant settings. If there’s no service charge, leave 5 to 10% at international venues. Arriving in Saigon: Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN), only 10km from the city centre, is the largest airport in Vietnam. Prepare the written address of your hotel and choose one of these options: (1) Catch a Cab: You can’t miss the taxi stands. Look out for the white Vinasun, the green Mai Linh or the yellow Vinataxi cars. Say no to any other provider. A ride to your hotel in D.1 should cost VND150,000 200,000 ($7-9). (2) Board a Bus: Walk out of the terminal and turn right to find the yellow shuttle buses to District 1. The bigger 109 line is cheaper (VND20,000=$1) and serves public bus stations in D.1. The slightly pricier and more comfortable 49 line (VND40,000=$2) drives along a special route to cover all major downtown hotels. Ask at the counter if they go to your hotel. (3) Grab: If you have a local SIM card and the app on your phone, Grab is the cheapest option. Beware though, not all drivers speak English.
SEE
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things to SEE
things to
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1
District 1 (D.1) Profile District 1 is Saigon’s commercial hub and touristic centrepiece, the pounding heart of this sleepless city. The whole area is undergoing a dizzying evolution following the government’s plans to make it Vietnam’s ‘Little Singapore’. Nonetheless, street life continues to thrive and gives downtown Saigon a one-of-a-kind vibe. The colonial-era flair, together with the abundant choices of restaurants, bars and clubs, makes District 1 an urban jack-of-all-trades. Have your $1 noodle soup on a tiny plastic chair or an ambrosial cocktail on a designer stool on a 30th-floor rooftop – nothing is impossible here. Top Sights Reunification Palace (p. 18)
Top Restaurants L’Usine (p. 61)
City Hall and Nguyen Hue walking street (p. 19) Central Post Office (p. 17)
The Sushi Bar (p. 51)
Top Bars & Clubs Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p. 63) Chill Skybar (p. 64)
Mountain Retreat (p. 43)
Catwalk (p. 65)
Attraction Accessible for People with Disabilities
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things to SEE
Notre Dame Cathedral - Church
Cong Xa Paris, D.1
5:30am-5:00pm/Sunday
district 1
This twin-towered cathedral is one of the most prominent architectural marvels in the city. It was built in 1877, made 100% from imported French materials. The streets outside are always bustling with tourists, locals and street vendors. Although the décor is austere, the church comes alive during services. The only English mass is on Sundays at 9:30am. Free
Local insight: The Cathedral is fenced in due to renovation, but mass is still held normally. Saigon Central Post Office - Architecture Designed in beautiful French-colonial style by no-one less than Gustave Eiffel, the post office was built between 1886 and 1891. Generally filled with tourists, it is still a working post office. Get your postcards at Couleurs by Réhahn (p. 78) and send them off here. 2 Cong Xa Paris, D.1 Mon-Fri 7:00am-7:00pm/SatSun 7:00am-6:00pm Free
Local insight: Have a talk with famous 90-yearold letter writer and translator Duong Van Ngo, usually sitting in the back of the building. Book Street - Market Street The pedestrian book street has been open to the public since 2016. Most books are in Vietnamese, but there is a small selection of English and French books. After browsing, head to one of the cafés for some people-watching. Nguyen Van Binh, next to Saigon Central Post 8:00am-9:00pm/ Cafés 6:00am-11:00pm
Office
Local insight: Get your English books at the lovely Boa Bookstore (Room C26, 2nd Floor, 6 Cong Truong Quoc Te, D.3). citypassguide.com
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1
Dong Khoi Street - Walking Street Known as Rue Catinat during the French colonial days, this street was reborn during Doi Moi (p. 159) as the heart of Saigon’s commercial district. It has local boutiques, international brand outlets and restaurants housed in beautifully restored French colonial buildings, as well as historical venues such as the Grand Hotel and Hotel Majestic. It runs from Notre Dame Cathedral (p.17) to the river. Local insight: Most of the story of Graham Greene's world-famous novel “The Quiet American” takes place here. The Opera House - Architecture Great photo ops await those who seek out one of the city’s most prominent landmarks. The Opera House was built in 1897 by French architect Eugene Ferret and designed by ‘Mr Eiffel Tower’, Gustave Eiffel. Now classical concerts and operas are held here weekly. It is only open to the public during events, so be sure to check their current schedule. The prices are very reasonable. 7 Lam Son Square, D.1
Local insight: The critically acclaimed AO Show (p. 97) is performed at the Opera House. Reunification Palace - Architecture This grand building was designed by Ngo Viet Thu for South Vietnam’s former President Ngo Dinh Diem during the time of the American War. The official handover of power took place here on the 30 April 1975, and the palace became a monument to that historic date. 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1 7:30am-11:00am & 1:00pm-4:00pm VND40,000 (adults), VND20,000 (students), VND10,000 (5-17-years-old)
Local insight: Don't forget to watch the historical film on your way out in the dedicated cinema room. 18
things to SEE
Nguyen Hue Street - Walking Street
district 1
Visit Saigon’s first pedestrian street at night and go all the way from the river to City Hall (p. 19) and the Ho Chi Minh statue. The glittering lights and cheerful hustle and bustle are sure to lift your spirits. If you're lucky enough to be in town during Tet, Vietnam's Lunar New Year, Nguyen Hue gets transformed into a massive flower street. Local insight: Watch the crowd from The Maker café on the third floor of the iconic 42 Nguyen Hue building. City Hall - Architecture At the top of Nguyen Hue walking street, you’ll see the magnificent offices of the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee. Completed in 1908, the design of the former Hotel de Ville is based on the original in Paris. It’s one of the most stunning monuments in the city, especially when lit at night. Le Thanh Ton and Nguyen Hue, D.1 Interior is not open to the public.
Local insight: Marvel at the City Hall from the rooftop of the adjacent Rex Hotel (p. 93). Happy hour: 5-7pm. Ho Chi Minh City Museum - History Built around 1885, the beautiful French-colonial building is well worth a visit, yet the exhibits – archaeological artifacts, city maps and the like – are only averagely interesting. The building was once the center of the city government after Reunification Palace was destroyed by a bombing. 65 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 VND15,000
8:00am -5:00pm
Local insight: Beneath the museum is a network of tunnels that goes as far as the Reunification Palace. saigon
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1
National History Museum - History The National History Museum is devoted to Indochinese architecture. Definitely also pass through the Cham section, which includes some relics taken from Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. Note that you’re asked to pay VND40,000 extra to take photos in the museum. 2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, D.1 Tues-Sun 8:00amVND15,000 11:30am & 1:30pm-5:00pm
Local insight: Outside the rear entrance enormous bronze panels detail Vietnam’s history. Ben Thanh Market - Market It can be a bit daunting to make sense of this market with its more than 3,000 vendor stalls. Luckily, we laid everything out in an organised grid (see opposite page)! Put on a steely demeanor, as sellers here are particularly persistent with tourists. Go to the fixed-price area for some hassle-free souvenir shopping and check the night market after 6pm for a quick dinner. Intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi and Le Lai, D.1 5:30am-6:00pm
Local insight: Climb up the staircase hidden behind Shop 94 in the south corner and escape the market madness at the in-house shrine.
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things to SEE
BEN THANH MARKET MAP NORTH Le Thanh Ton Street Entrance
MEAT & FISH
FRUIT & VEG
ARTS & CERAMICS
DRIED GOODS
GIFTS
CONFECTIONERY
COSMETICS
CLOTHING
WEDDING MATERIALS
East Entrance (Phan Boi Chau Street)
EATERIES
district 1
West Entrance (Phan Chu Trinh Street)
MEAT & FISH
JEWELLERY
Le Loi Street Entrance SOUTH
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht
Bitexco Financial Tower - Viewpoint
district 1
Opened in 2010, the 262.5m-high Bitexco Financial Tower was the tallest tower in Saigon until the Landmark 81 surpassed it in 2018. Bitexco’s design was inspired by Vietnam’s national flower, the lotus. The Saigon Skydeck, found on the 49th floor, offers breathtaking panoramas of the city for VND200,000. The building is also home to three bars and two restaurants on the 50th, 51st and 52nd floors. We recommend EON51 for a dinner with a view. 45 Ngo Duc Ke, D.1
9:30am-9:30pm
Local insight: The helipad on the 52nd floor was shipped to Vietnam in one piece from Korea. Rainbow Bridge - Architecture This pedestrian bridge was built by Gustave Eiffel in 1882. While it’s a great vantage point to marvel at Bitexco Tower (p. 22), the river view is obstructed by the current construction of a flood control system. Adjacent to Pasteur and the Thu Thiem tunnel D.1
Local insight: On weekends, the bridge is a favourite spot for betrothed couples taking wedding pictures. Huyen Sy Church At over 100 years old, this church is the oldest and second largest in Saigon. It was named after Huyen Sy, grandfather of Vietnam’s last queen. You can find the tombs of Mr and Mrs Huyen Sy off to the side of the nave. 1 Ton That Tung, D.1 Free 5:00am-5:30pm; Sunday, Mass is held at 5:00am, 6:30am, 8:00am, 4:30pm, 6:00pm, 7:30pm
Local insight: Go at night – the neon lights provide a unique and dazzling exterior. 22
citypassguide.com
things to SEE
Jade Emperor Pagoda - Temple
73 Mai Thi Luu, D.1 8:00am-5:00pm
district 1
Built in 1909 by Saigon’s Chinese population, this atmospheric Cantonese pagoda features the Jade Emperor (heaven’s keeper), who keeps watch over the incense-filled rooms and their hidden chambers, altars and wood carvings. One of the halls honours the most important deity of fertility, Kim Hua, while the second storey represents heaven and features the goddess of Mercy, Kwan Ying. Free
Local insight: The turtles in the pond next to the entrance are said to bring good luck. Jamia Al Muslimin Mosque - Mosque One of the 12 mosques serving the city, Jamia Al Muslimin Mosque was constructed for southern Indian worshippers. Muslims from all over the world now come here to pray, though the shaded veranda makes an ideal place for anyone to sit during the heat of the day. Dine at the compound’s halal restaurant, which offers cheap Indian and Malay food. 66 Dong Du, D.1
6:00am-9:00pm
Free
Local insight: Remember to dress modestly, covering your shoulders and knees. Mariamman Hindu Temple - Temple This temple seems out of place with its colourful facade that jumps out from its surroundings. Inside, incense fills the air, completing the tranquil setting. The temple was built by traders from Tamil Nadu and is named after the goddess Mariamman, worshipped for her miraculous powers, which include romantic matchmaking abilities. 45 Truong Dinh, D.1
7:00am – 7:00pm
Free
Local insight: Remember to remove your shoes before stepping onto the raised platform. saigon
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1
Park Culture in Saigon Parks are some of the most popular public spaces in Saigon. Some date back to the French colonial period, like Tao Dan Park (p. 25), the Botanical Gardens (p. 25) and Le Van Tam Park (on the corner of Dien Bien Phu and Hai Ba Trung in D.1). Locals who want to burn some calories come to parks in the early morning to exercise or for some impromptu dance classes. Young people venture here to study, hang out and practice English with foreigners. Just sit down on a bench and wait – you’ll have a local conversation partner in no time! If you’re out early enough, check out the bird café in Tao Dan Park where Vietnamese men, mostly the elderly, come to show off their prized birds, enjoy the morning air and chat over a cup of coffee. 24
things to SEE
30-4 Park - Nature
This small, shaded park takes its name from Vietnam’s Reunification Day, 30 April 1975. Connecting the Reunification Palace (p. 18) with Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 17), it’s a popular meeting place for young and old Saigonese alike. Le Duan (in front of the Reunification Palace), D.1
district 1
Local insight: After a morning stroll, step into nearby Au Parc (23 Han Huyen) for a latte and croissant. Tao Dan Park - Nature This urban park covers 10 hectares with over 1,000 large trees and plenty of lush greenery. In early mornings the park is filled with people exercising to booming dance music, walking and practising tai chi. Look out for the replica of Nha Trang’s Cham Tower and the Hung King Temple, or wander around the many statues in the east side of the park. Truong Dinh (a five-minute walk north of Ben Thanh Market), D.1
Local insight: During Tet, Vietnam’s Lunar New Year, Tao Dan Park is the best place to go to see a live “dragon dance”. Saigon Zoo & Botanical Gardens Nature The gardens feature a wide range of animals including rare snakes, elephants, giraffes and birds, but beware – many animals look visibly uncared for. We recommend you stroll through the lush botanical gardens for a retreat into nature or catch a theatre performance instead. Also, visit the butterfly garden! 2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, D.1 7:00am-6:30pm VND50,000 (adults), VND30,000 (children over 1.3m)
Local insight: Inside the main gate you’ll find the Temple of King Hung Vuong, built to honour the legendary founder of Vietnam. citypassguide.com
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1
Art Galleries - Saigon Definitely don’t overlook Ho Chi Minh City’s contemporary art spaces. Take a look at these art galleries and suck in all the creativity and calm they have to offer. Galerie Quynh (118 Nguyen Van Thu, D.1) is considered one of Vietnam’s leading contemporary art galleries and showcases drawings, paintings, videos and installations in temporary exhibitions. Head to Ben Thanh Gallery (7 Nguyen Thiep, D.1) for a peek at the works of some of the most celebrated Vietnamese artists working today. Apricot Gallery (50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1) is well-known for the diversity and the quality of its artists. This gallery features sculptures as well as paintings. The 26
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renowned French photographer Réhahn has also recently opened a gallery called Couleurs by Réhahn (p. 78), where his most well-known pieces are displayed. Admire his many signature portraits of the country’s ethnic minority members. Fine Arts Museum - Museum Set inside an exquisite 1929 colonial villa, this museum is home to Vietnamese art from the seventh century to today, with a focus on works made during colonial rule. The quality of some exhibits can be debatable. 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D.1 Tues-Sun 8am-6pm
VND10,000
Local insight: Check out one of the first wooden elevators in Saigon, located at the main staircase.
things to SEE district 1
Pham Ngu Lao & Bui Vien There’s no place in Saigon quite like Pham Ngu Lao & Bui Vien. Somewhat endearingly termed “the Backpacker District”, this area in the lower half of District 1 lives up to its name. Backpackers fresh off the bus and ready to make merry flock to Pham Ngu Lao, and especially the infamous Bui Vien Street. Here you’ll find the city’s most affordable hostels and 2 to 3-star hotels, international cuisine, plenty of dubious and less dubious massage parlours and pretty much everything in between. Formerly a busy and anxietyprovoking thoroughfare for cars, taxis and motorbikes, travellers and locals can now enjoy Bui Vien as a walking street every weekend.
Be sure to check out The View at Duc Vuong Hotel (195 Bui Vien) for a very low-key rooftop bar experience. The Crazy Dutch (189 Bui Vien) is considered a go-to place for expat English teachers who like to drink; and dozens of Vietnamese-run beer parlours line the streets. However, it’s not just about drinking here – travellers also delight in the wide array of food options in the area as well. For Indian cuisine, Baba’s Kitchen (164 Bui Vien, D.1) can’t be beat; if you fancy Thai, be sure to try Coriander (16 Bui Vien); and for Vietnamese fare? Seafood fans should try Five Oysters (234 Bui Vien), the best pho eatery is Pho Quynh (323 Pham Ngu Lao), and Bun Cha 145 (145 Bui Vien) has just the right food to accompany a beer or two. citypassguide.com
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1
Where Couples Meet in Saigon Just like everywhere else in the world, couples love enjoying romantic, private moments. However, the dating scene in Vietnam is definitely different from what Westerners are used to, mainly because public displays of affection are frowned upon here. So what do couples do when they need some romantic time out of public view? Hop on their motorbike and drive around town! Saigon has a few romantic spots that attract a fair share of couples at night. The roundabout at Turtle Lake (Vo Van Tan and Tran Cao Van Streets, D.3) is definitely a famous hangout for teenagers. Couples 28
stroll hand in hand along the city canals as well – especially at Nhieu Loc Canal, which separates Phu Nhuan District from the city centre. A bit further away from downtown, the Starlight Bridge, part of the Crescent Walk (Tan Phu Ward, D.7), provides a great getaway spot for a romantic night. And if you’d like to have a meal and get to know one another, our pick has to be Secret Garden (p. 43). This is Vietnamese food done really well, and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. Afterwards, if all goes well, bring your date to Social Club (p. 67) for some after-dinner drinks and breathtaking views of the entire city.
things to SEE district 2
District 2 (D.2) Profile What used to be little more than a large piece of swampland on the east bank of the Saigon River is now where the future of the city is happening. The southwestern Thu Thiem Ward is set to become Saigon’s new central business district. Watch the construction frenzy from D.1’s Ton Duc Thang Street. The northwestern Thao Dien Ward has become an expat wonderland in record speed, boasting a plethora of top-of-the-range restaurants, hip bars, en vogue fashion shops, ritzy villa compounds and luxury apartment high-rises. Definitely taxi over (the metro is still under construction) if you’re out for Western-style fine dining. And be warned: this is also one of the most flood-prone districts during the wet season. Top Restaurants La Villa (p. 49)
Top Bars The Deck (p. 70)
Top For Kids Bama Kids Cafe (41 No. 41 St., D2)
Pendolasco (p. 56)
Buddha Bar (p. 69)
MAD House (p. 57)
L'escale (p. 49)
Saigon Outcast (p. 70)
Snap Cafe (p. 56) citypassguide.com
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 3
District 3 (D.3) Profile Located right next to District 1 and its cosmopolitan hustle and bustle, District 3 has a more local charm. Street vendors, outdoor markets and open-air restaurants dot the streets wherever you look. Lift your head every now and then to awe at the colourful mix of time-honoured French-style villas, Vietnamese-style row houses and state-of-the-art luxury homes as you stroll to District 3’s sights. Upscale restaurants and international food and beverage chains have begun to take hold here, but it never takes more than five minutes to walk back into authentic Vietnamese street life. So go ahead and explore! Top Sights War Remnants Museum (p. 31)
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Best Bars Bia Craft (p. 63)
Xa Loi Pagoda (p. 31)
Top Restaurants Hum Vegetarian (p. 43) Kobe Teppanyaki (p. 50)
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda (339 Nam Ki Khoi Nghia, D.3)
Shri (72 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3)
Social Club (p. 67)
Yoko CafĂŠ (p. 74)
things to SEE
Southern Women’s Museum - History A feminist gem in Saigon, this museum is dedicated to the accomplishments of Vietnamese women. The exhibition covers three floors and focuses on ethnic dress, handicrafts and women’s struggles and triumphs throughout Vietnamese history. 202 Vo Thi Sau, Phuong 7, D.3 Mon-Sun 7:30am-11:30am & 1:30pm-5pm
Free district 3
Local insight: The offered tour showcases the invaluable contributions made by women in the fight for independence. War Remnants Museum - History This museum is not for the faint-hearted, as it houses harrowing images from the American War. Established in 1975, it displays US armoured vehicles, bombs, infantry weapons and, most importantly, controversial pictures detailing the brutality of war. Not to be missed is Requiem, a homage to the photojournalists who lost their lives in the war. 28 Vo Van Tan, D.3 Mon-Sun 7:30am–6pm
VND15,000
Local insight: Visit the Cu Chi Tunnels (p. 108) just outside of HCMC first for a real-life understanding of the guerrilla military tactics. Xa Loi Pagoda - Temple This seven-tiered pagoda is home to a Buddha relic, a 32m-high bell tower and even a publishing centre. It played an important role in the American War, when 400 monks and nuns were arrested for civil disobedience in 1963. Thich Quang Duc, one of the monks who protested through selfimmolation, has a memorial nearby. 89B Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D.3 Free Mon-Sun 7:00-11:00am & 2:00-5:00pm
Local insight: A special Buddhist ceremony is organised every Sunday from 8-10am. citypassguide.com
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht districts 5, 6 & 10
Districts 5, 6 & 10 (D.5, D.6, D.10) Profile - Chinatown District 5, more popularly known as Cho Lon – ‘Big Market’ – is Saigon’s Chinese epicentre. If you expect one of those condensed little Chinatowns with a quirky, brightly coloured entrance gate you’ll see elsewhere, get ready for a surprise. Cho Lon is nothing short of a city in a city. Explore the streets to take in the crowded markets and picturesque pagodas that stretch into the surrounding districts. It is also undeniably the best place in the city to explore by traditional cyclo. Cho Lon is also the place to learn more about the distinctive way the Vietnamese have made Chinese medicinal traditions their own. While Western medicine is now widely accepted, ancient remedies are still occasionally used today, such as chewing betel, teeth dying (which prevents tooth decay) and eating ginger to protect against malaria.
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Top Sights FITO Museum (p. 34)
Top Restaurants Ngan Dinh Restaurant (18 An Duong Vuong, D5)
Best Shopping Binh Tay Market (p. 34)
Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda (p. 33)
San Fu Lou (p. 48)
The Garden Mall (190 Hong Bang, D.5)
Nghia An Hoi Pagoda (p. 33)
Orientica Seafood Restaurant at Equatorial Hotel (242 Tran Binh Trong, D.5)
Lantern Street (Luong Nhu Hoc, D5)
things to SEE
Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda - Temple Built by the Chaozhou Chinese population, Nghia An Hoi Quan is noteworthy for its gilded woodwork. A carved boat hangs over the entrance and to the left you’ll see a large representation of Quan Cong, a deified Chinese general from the Three Kingdoms Period. 8:30am-6pm
Free
districts 5, 6 & 10
678 Nguyen Trai, D.5
Local insight: The statue of Ong Bon, keeper of happiness and virtue, resides in a glass altar to the right of the main sanctuary. Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda - Temple Built by the Fujian Congregation in 1839, this lively pagoda has retained its rich design. Located on a small and quiet street, it is dedicated to Me Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility, and is frequently crowded with women praying for assistance with conception. 118 Trieu Quang Phuc, D.5
6:00am-6:00pm
Free
Local insight: The vendors at the entrance sell live fish meant to be set free, which supposedly brings good luck.
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht districts 9 & 10
Binh Tay Market - Market This is the central market of Cho Lon, Saigon’s Chinatown. A mix of French and Chinese architecture, this market, built in 1928, is the largest in town and has a smorgasbord of items for sale. The building is famed for its intricate facade, reddish-brown tiles and dominant yellow clock tower, along with its (practically) hassle-free shopping. Great spot for photography. 57A Thap Muoi, D.6
8:00 – 17:00
Local insight: The market deals in bulk. Many businesses haggle for the best wholesale here. Ao Dai Museum - Fashion Since its emergence in the 18th century, the body-hugging ao dai (p. 85) has remained Vietnam's traditional dress. The cosy museum in District 9 tracks the development of the ao dai over the centuries. Be aware, it’s far from the city center. 206/19/30 Long Thuan D.9 Tues-Sun 8:30am-5:30pm VND100,000 VND50,000 (students)
Local insight: Visit the gallery in D.1 at Ao Dai House (107 Dong Khoi, D.1). FITO Museum - Traditional Medical This intriguing museum gives you the unique opportunity to see how Vietnamese traditional medicine has evolved over the years. Its collection of medicinal root slicers, apothecary’s mortars, lime pots, ceramic teapots and other instruments transport visitors back in time. If you want to compare these with their Chinese counterparts, check out the Chinese Medicine Market on Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street in District 5 (p. 32). 41 Hoang Du Khuong, D.10 Mon-Sun 8:30am - 5:00pm VND120,000 (Aduls) VND60,000 (Children) 34
things to SEE districts 9 & 10 Binh Dong flower floating market (District 8) citypassguide.com
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 7
District 7 (D.7) Profile Located in the south of Saigon, District 7 is a distance away from the hustle and bustle of District 1. This is where expats and the more affluent Vietnamese call home with a wide range of high-end apartments, as well as mansions and bungalows in the Phu My Hung area. There are a few shopping malls here, including SC VivoCity, Lotte Mart and Crescent Mall for your shopping needs, with plenty of restaurants serving international fare too. If you’re looking for a nice, peaceful spot for a picnic, the Starlight Bridge and the adjoining Ho Ban Nguyet Park are perfect venues. District 7 is also known as “Koreatown”, as a high proportion of Korean expats live here.
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Top Activities Starlight Bridge & Ho Ban Nguyet Park (Tan Phu, D7) Saigon South Golf Club (p. 109)
Top Restaurants The Sushi Bar (p. 51)
Top Fun for Kids IMAX Cinema (p. 106)
Pizza 4P’s (p. 50)
Artinus 3D Art Museum (p. 105)
Golden Lotus Healing Spa World (p. 103)
Q.itchen Factory (p. 56)
Sky Park (p. 106)
Watch where history unfolded at Reunification Palace (p. 18). The ultimate must-visit. Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 17) still remains Saigon’s iconic architectural landmark.
Best Museums At times polemic and definitely shocking. The War Remnants Museum (p. 31) is a Saigon must. What happened before the American War? The National History Museum (p. 20) has all the information. Mortars, pestles and a tea tasting – learn everything about Vietnamese traditional medicine at FITO Museum (p. 34). Best Pagodas You like atmospheric places and the smell of incense? Get both at the Jade Emperor Pagoda (p. 23). Pray for fertility and take in the ornamental figures at the Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda (p. 33). The Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda (p. 33) is a richly decorated sanctuary of peace and photo ops. Best for Kids Grab a ca phe sua da and let the kids run loose in the small sand park
best of
Sightseeing and postcard sending – the Central Post Office (p. 17) is a two-in-one attraction.
& cafe behind the Reunification Palace (p.18). Kids can pull up a plastic chair and listen to some free live music most every Sunday at 8am in front of The Opera House (p. 18). Pop into L’Usine (p.61) afterwards for breakfast. Sideby-side restaurants, Propaganda (p.55) & Au Parc (23 Han Thuyen, D.1), have an extensive kids’ menu as well as a dedicated 3rd floor play zone.
things to SEE
Best Historical Sights
Bama Kids Cafe (41 No. 41 St., Thao Dien, D.2) is unlike other typical noisy play centres. Tranquil colours and good food make this a great space for kids under 6. Best by Night Since you can’t go in, you should see City Hall (p. 19) when it’s most imposing: sparkling when the sun goes down. The Saigon Opera House’s flamboyant style is naturally most impressive at night. See a show! Ben Thanh Market (p. 20) morphs into a street market after 6pm. Best at Sunset Ritzy drinks and a sunset view? Head to Chill Skybar (p. 64). Have a cocktail at The Deck (p. 70) at around 6pm and you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous sundown river vistas. Have your sundowner the Quiet American way on Majestic Hotel’s (1 Dong Khoi, D.1) rooftop. citypassguide.com
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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht best of
Best up in the Sky
Best Central Green Spots
Look down on the city from its tallest tower. Chill Sky Bar (p. 64) also has a top-notch food menu!
Go for the zoo, but stay for the Botanical Gardens (p. 25). Central Saigon’s greenest spot!
Ask for a table with a view at Shri (72 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3) and you’ll have something to talk about during dinner.
The gardens of the Reunification Palace (p. 18) are perfect for a late afternoon stroll.
Dance the night away next to majestic views at the perfectly located Social Club - Hotel des Arts (p. 67). Have a cocktail at Blank Lounge and enjoy spectacular sunset city views from the outdoor viewing deck on the 75th floor (Landmark 81 Building), the tallest building in South East Asia. (p. 67.) Best for the Photo Album Nguyen Hue (p. 19) typifies the wholesome weekend nightlife of many Saigonese – and boasts the City Hall as a stunning backdrop. Take in the spiritual life and smell the smoke of incense at Thien Hau Pagoda (710 Nguyen Trai, D.5). Take a picture of the ceiling! Go to Binh Tay Market (p. 34) early and impress friends at home with ‘no way you can carry that on a motorbike’ shots. Best Local Tip The Thu Thiem Bridge linking Binh Thanh District and District 2 boasts stunning views of the Saigon skyline. Drive across after some dinner in District 2.
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Covered under tropical trees, Tao Dan Park’s (p. 25) provides true peace. Best enjoyed in the early morning. Best Points of Retreat When you find yourself downtown, take a rest on the veranda of Jamia Al Muslimin Mosque (p. 23). Tan Xa Palace (180 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3), Saigon’s oldest building, oozes history and calms the senses. Escape Saigon’s bustling streets at Ngoi Nha So 7 (7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem. D.3). Soothing and authentic cafe. Best out of Downtown Lush and local and only 30 minutes from the centre – Binh Quoi (p. 58) feels like the countryside! Ho Ban Nguyet Park (Tan Phu, D.7) shows that Saigon is a multifaceted city: enjoy an almost-Singaporean retreat! Best Local Tip The Buu Long Temple (81 Nguyen Xien, D. 9) is a beauty of a pagoda and a sanctuary of peace. Stop by this gorgeous mix of Vietnamese, Thai and Myanmar traditions on your way to the Ao Dai Museum (p. 34).
EAT
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things to SEE
where to
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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht local
Restaurant Price Guide (per meal) $ - up to VND199,000
$$ - VND200,000-499,000
$$$ - VND500,000 & above
Southern cuisine relies heavily on spices, herbs and fresh vegetables. If you want to sample the whole range of local specialities, head to the food court at Saigon’s new underground Sense Market at 23/9 Park on Pham Ngu Lao Street, District 1 or the newly opened Food Street (Nguyen Van Chiem, D.1)! Banh Mi
Yes, this is the local take on a submarine sandwich, but brought to flavoursome perfection by the ingenious mix of pâté, pickled veggies, sliced cucumber, cilantro leaves, soy sauce, chili and of course the meat of your choice. We recommend grilled (Banh Mi Thit) or roasted pork (Banh Mi Heo Quay). Price on the Street: From VND15,000 Where to Try It: Banh Mi Huynh Hoa, 26 Le Thi Rieng, D.1; Banh Mi Ngoc Xuyen, 41 Tran Quoc Toan, D.3
Banh Xeo
These savoury pancakes are made with flour, egg and salt, then fried. They come stuffed with pork, vegetables and prawns with a side of herbs and fish sauce. Price on the Street: VND40,000 Where to Try It: Banh Xeo 46A, 46 Dinh Cong Trang, D.1
Bun Mam
A rather pungent vermicelli noodle soup made with everything but the kitchen sink thrown in. It includes shrimp paste, aubergine, squid and more. Price on the Street: VND35,000 Where to Try It: Bun Mam Nem Co No, 19/13 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1
Local insight: Most street restaurants offer chopped lemon. Use it to clean your chopsticks and spoon before eating. 40
things to EAT where SEE local
Bun Thit Nuong
Hu Tieu
This dish is made of vermicelli noodles topped with fresh greens, peanuts and grilled pork. Some suppliers will even throw in a fried spring roll.
Long, thin rice noodles are served with ground pork, shrimp and fish. The common elements of celery and sauteed garlic help to maintain the distinctive taste.
Price on the Street: VND35,000 Where to Try It: Food Stall, Corner of Le Loi & Nguyen Trung Truc, D.1
Price on the Street: VND40,000 Where to Try It: Hu Tieu Nam Vang Nhan Quan, A67 Nguyen Trai, D.1
Com Tam
Pho
Literally translated as “broken rice”, this hearty dish is served for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It comes with many different meat options but the most common is a delicious barbecued pork chop, marinated in sugar and fish sauce. Price on the Street: VND30,000 Where to Try It: Bui Sai Gon food stall, 100 Thach Thi Thanh, D.1; Com Tam Tu Quy, Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Huu Cau, Binh Thanh D.
Traditionally, pho consists of beef broth, the distinctive broad rice noodles, herbs and meat, but there’s also a chicken and even vegetarian version of it. The real deal is Pho Tai with thinly sliced rare beef that is cooked straight in the bowl. Price on the Street: VND40,000 Where to Try It: Pho Hoa, 260C Pasteur, D.3; Pho Le, 413-415 Nguyen Trai, D.5/303-304 Vo Van Tan, D.3 saigon
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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht local
Northern Vs. Central Vs. Southern Food
Geography plays an important role in Vietnamese cuisine because the climate and the tradition affect the availability of certain ingredients and spices, and thus the cooking style within each region. The flavours of Northern food are usually light and balanced, and the most used ingredients are those made from rice. In mountainous areas, where the climate can be cooler, cooking methods like stewing are popular. People in the central region cook with a lot of chillies and they have many kinds of mam (sauce or paste made from fermented fish, shrimp, squid, crab…). The warm weather and fertile soil of Southern Vietnam create an ideal condition for growing a greater variety of produce. As a result, the flavours used are more diverse than in the North. Soy sauce and sugar are added to food in the South more than in other regions. Desserts are also more popular in the South. Street Snacks & Beer
Vietnam is the number one beer consumer in Southeast Asia. How do they do it? They put ice in their beer, fair enough, but most of all: drinking always goes together with eating! If you want to try out the concept without the street food hazard, we recommend barbecue at 5ku (p. 54). The Vietnamese delicacy of choice for eating-whiledrinking is oc or snails. Be warned: it’s a messy business. Try the daring venture to District 4, central Saigon’s most Vietnamese district, and seek out Vinh Khanh Street. It’s an electrifying experience at night with tons of seafood restaurants crammed one next to the other, all chock-full with locals. Get your hands dirty at famous Oc Oanh (534 Vinh Khanh Street), but remember to bring a Vietnamese speaker: no English spoken here. 42
$$
things to EAT where SEE
Dau Homemade - Traditional Vietnamese Food
Enjoy local specialities at this restaurant, which specialises in Bun Dau Mam Tom. This classic, Hanoian delicacy features fried tofu served with rice vermicelli, herbs, sliced pork and deep-fried meat cakes with sprouted rice. Guests visiting on Sunday nights will also be able to enjoy a traditional Vietnamese water puppet show.
local
6 Hồong Ha, Tan Binh D.; 52 Le Lai, D.1; 104 Hoang Dieu, D.4 10:00am-10:00pm +84 93 808 82 84 info@dauhomemade.com dauhomemade.vn
Local insight: The freshwater crab hotpot with beef slices is also a hit amongst guests! Cuc Gach Quan - Family Restaurant
$$
Peaceful setting in a French colonial house on the outskirts of D.1 (15 minutes from Ben Thanh Market). The simple presentation is a little bit at odds with the high prices but the taste is great. 10 Dang Tat, D.1
Secret Garden - Rooftop Restaurant
$-$$
Visiting a friend in Saigon? They’re likely to bring you here for dinner. Secret Garden offers consistently good Vietnamese fare with a modern touch in a "hidden" rooftop garden. Book a table, this place is popular! Top Floor, 158 Pasteur, D.1
Mountain Retreat - Rooftop Restaurant
$-$$
Same owners and same concept as Secret Garden, but with a more impressive city view and a slightly more traditional, Northern-style Vietnamese menu. Here too, the unpretentious setting is a draw. Decent wine list. 36 Le Loi, D.1
Hum - Vegetarian
$-$$$
Whether or not you’re a vegetarian you’ll love their delightfully prepared Vietnamese recipes. Choose one of their three tranquil locations. 32 Vo Van Tan, D.3, 2 Thi Sach, D.1, 32 D10 Street, D.2 citypassguide.com
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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht local/international
Where to Eat Halal/Vegetarian/Vegan
Vietnam is heaven for foodies. But admittedly, it is a country of meat and seafood lovers. One or often both of them are literally in all Vietnamese signature dishes. But fear not: there’s religion. Most Buddhists eat vegan every 1st and 15th of each lunar month. Hence there’s a need for vegetarian and vegan food! And Halal meat? Cosmopolitan Saigon doesn’t let you down. Vegetarian/Vegan
There’s no better and more atmospheric vegetarian and vegan fine dining in Saigon than at Hum (p. 43). Period. Stroll around lower District 3, close to the War Remnants Museum (p. 31) and further west, to find some lovely hidden vegetarian/vegan eateries, such as yogi-style Prem Bistro and Café (204 Nguyen Dinh Chieu), down-to-earth Mani (291/2 Vo Van Tan) or strictly organic BioGarten (155A Nam Ki Khoi Nghia, D.3). Those not afraid of street food slurp one of the best vegetarian pho in town at Pho Chay Nhu (54 Truong Quyen, D.3). Loud and colourful, that is, authentically Vietnamese Loving Hut (38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D.1) and far-off insider tip Here and Now (89E Nguyen Cong Hoa, Phu Nhuan D.) are other great options. If you’re into Indian food, nothing beats Tandoor (p. 45). Halal
The percentage of Muslim Vietnamese is rather slender, so Indian and Malay food is your best bet. For Indian Halal food, choose Tandoor (see above) or Baba’s Kitchen (164 Bui Vien, D.1). Get your Malaysian and Singaporean Halal fare in a casual setting at Kampung Pandan Restaurant (53 Thu Khoa Huan, D.1). They also serve Halal versions of Vietnamese dishes, just like The Daun (194 Le Thanh Ton, D.1), unarguably the best place to try Halal pho in Saigon! For some street cred, have your morning pho at Pho Muslim (505 Tran Hung Dao, D.1). 44
things to EAT where SEE
Tandoor - Halal Indian
$-$$
A sophisticated venue right off the Nguyen Hue walking street, Tandoor boasts a welcoming staff and delicious foods. Specialising in halal food from Northern India and clay-oven-cooked kebabs, they also offer Southern Indian cuisine and one of the largest selections of vegetarian options in the city.
international
39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D.1 028 3930 4839 10:00am-11:00pm tandoorvietnam.com
Local insight: Looking for a filling meal? Try the Tandoori Grill, which includes chicken, paneer, seabass and mutton grilled in a tandoor oven. Why’s My Steak So Expensive?
Meat in Vietnam is actually spectacularly cheap. That’s how $1 street lunches become profitable. However, go to a local wet market and you’ll see why: the processing of the meat does not quite live up to international standards. Cold chain? Never heard of it. At best, you kill the animal, you cut the meat up, you cook it and you eat it. Upscale restaurants have a simple reaction to this: they import their meat. So your juicy rib-eye steak is indeed imported from Australia, the US or Japan, where meat is properly stored, hung and dry-aged to make it tender and flavourful as it lies there on your plate. The price you pay for this quality is… well… high: international rates plus shipping cost plus import taxes. So don’t do like the Vietnamese and order your steak well-done. You’d spoil the extra value you paid for. The prime location for a prime cut of beef is the New York Steakhouse (25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1). Perfectly cooked everytime. Or for a culinary journey head to MAD cow (148 Tran Hung Dao, D.1). Here you can choose not only your cut of meat but also the type of salt and sauces to go with it. citypassguide.com
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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht international
Best Place for a Business Lunch
high-quality Western fare on offer.
Sorae (76A Le Lai, D.1) is a highend Japanese restaurant located on the 24th and 25th floor of AB Tower in District 1. The restaurant also comes with Japanese-themed private rooms for more intimacy. With 3 outlets across Saigon, including a brand new location on Le Thanh Ton, L’Usine (p. 61) is a high-concept establishment and a popular spot for those working out of home and of course, Western-style business lunches due to its quiet ambience and abundance of natural light.
Located in District 1, The Racha Room (p. 58) is a sophisticated restaurant that serves reinventions of PanAsian street and hawker specialties. Featuring copious set-lunch specials, this is an ideal place for productive discussions. For vegetarians who love Vietnamese food, the best option is Hum (p. 43). With three branches across the city, the branch in District 1 is perfect for business lunches as the garden themed venue, both peaceful and inviting, makes it a conducive environment. La Villa (p. 49) in District 2 is ideal for the client that you want to impress. The tranquil environment and world-class food make this the perfect location to close a deal.
Housed in what was once an opium factory in District 1, The Refinery (74 Hai Ba Trung) has a classic interior with a large front terrace and 46
things to EAT where SEE international
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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht international
Chinese Dumplings For lovers of Chinese cuisine, and especially dumplings, there are a few places in Saigon where you can have your fix of extremely juicy xiao long bao. Ngan Dinh Restaurant (p. 48), located on the fifth floor of Windsor Plaza Hotel in Chinatown, serves authentic Cantonese cuisine and their dumplings are top notch. Another restaurant to check out is Dim Tu Tac (55 Dong Du, D.1). The restaurant has a nice ambience and their dumplings are great. Other notable restaurants are Dynasty (New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D.1), located at the 1st floor of New World Saigon Hotel, which also hosts buffet specials, Sheraton Hotel’s in-house Li Bai Restaurant (88 Dong Khoi, D.1) and San Fu Lou (p.48) with several locations across 48
the city. On Sunday nights, try The Racha Room’s dumpling special (12 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1). Phat’s Dumplings (111 Xuan Thuy, D.2; 44 Dong Du, D.1) is an excellent choice as well. Ngan Dinh - Cantonese
$$
Dim sum is best had in Chinatown (p. 32), and this is the premier restaurant for it. At Windsor Plaza Hotel. 18 An Duong Vuong, D.5
San Fu Lou - Cantonese
$$-$$$$
The food at this late night Cantonese favourite is given superb balance because of the freshness of the ingredients and the contrast of flavours and textures. Ground Floor, 76A Le Lai, D.1; 195-197 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan; 101 Ton Dat Tien, D.7; 24 Ba Thang Hai, D.10.
things to EAT where SEE
Chill Dining - Dining
$$-$$$
Chill Dining on the 27th floor is a stylish restaurant with gorgeous Saigon views. The restaurant’s exquisite design is perfect for an intimate dinner for families, couples, and private events, or as a cozy lounge for whisky & cigar aficionados.
international
27th Floor, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D.1 5:30pm-10:30pm 093 882 2838 info@chillsaigon.com chillsaigon.com
Local insight: These signature dishes are a must try Tomahawk Bone-In & The Shellfish Boat and the Angus Beef Short Rib (cooked 8 hours over charcoal embers). La Villa - French
$$$
This tucked-away restaurant offers Michelin-quality French cuisine in a beautiful colonial-style villa. Dine in the serene courtyard or refined interior, served by experienced and polite waiters. Twenty minutes from the city centre, La Villa is the perfect choice for guests who are looking for true fine dining. 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D.2 028 3898 2082 Mon-Sat 11:45am-1:30pm last order & 6:30pm-9:30pm last order lavilla-restaurant.com.vn
Local insight: Try their Cheese Trolley, French Blue Lobster or The Seasonal Chef Menu. Le Corto - French $$$ A modern, high-end restaurant offering a large selection of fine French cuisines and an impressive international wine list. Try their excellent set-menus for a lunch that you won't soon forget. 5D Nguyen Sieu, D.1
L'Escale - French $$$ This restaurant is all about exquisite French cuisine created by Michelin-starred chef Thierry Drapeau. 90 Quoc Huong, D.2 citypassguide.com
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Kobe Teppanyaki - Japanese
$$-$$$
Saigon’s first specialist restaurant for Japanese teppanyaki and premium A5 Kobe beef takes you on an authentic Japanese adventure. Teppan ("table") and Yaki ("grilled") means the chefs know how to put on a show for your viewing and eating pleasure. 13A Tu Xuong, D.3 028 3932 0187 - 028 3932 0189 23C Ton Duc Thang,D.1 028 3910 7878 - 028 3910 6767 10:00am-10:00pm sales.teppankobe@gmail.com
Local insight: Kobe Teppanyaki offers The Tursan Red Wine from 3-star Michelin Chef Michel Guerard, best matched with imported A5 Kobe beef. Little Tokyo Saigon is host to a sizeable population of Japanese expats and it’s no surprise that there is a section of the city dedicated to them. Just like Chinatown in D.5 (p. 32) and Koreatown in D.7 (p. 36), the Japanese have their own Little Tokyo right in the heart of D.1, along a stretch of Le Thanh Ton Street. As you enter 15B Le Thanh Ton, you will be greeted by a little maze right in front of you featuring a whole range of sushi bars, ramen restaurants, izakaya bars, Japanese hostess bars and the likes, there are also a number of massage parlours which tend to get “popular” after the sun sets. Some notable establishments in the area would be Gyoza No Teiou (15/7 Le Thanh Ton) and Sushi World Buffet (15/1 Le Thanh Ton) and outside the little quarter, just a short walk away, there’s Pizza 4P’s if you don't feel like Japanese food. Pizza 4P’s - Pizza & Pasta
$$-$$$
This Japanese-owned pizzeria has homemade cheeses and heavenly burrata pizzas. Also, try the four cheese pizza with honey. 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 / 8 Thu Khoa Huan, D.1 / 151 Hai Ba Trung, D.3 50
things to EAT where SEE international
The Sushi Bar - Japanese
$$-$$$
The Sushi Bar uses the freshest, organic ingredients to create a fantastic variety of delicious and healthy Japanese dishes. Don't miss the house special Sushi Bar Roll with nine components and pair it with sake or green tea, just as if you were in Japan. Moreover, you can choose and savour favourite dishes from a variety choices of our menu. 179B Hai Ba Trung, D.3 - 028 3823 8042 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1 2nd Floor, Saigon Court, 149 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3 Ground Floor, Capri Residence, Lot C6B-02-2, D.7 Hikari, Ly Thai To, Binh Duong New City, Binh Duong Lot 3-A5.6, Bac Tuong Dai, Hai Chau D., Da Nang 10:30-22:30pm (last order: 23:00pm) Reservation & Delivery Hotline 028 3911 8818 / 028 3911 8618
Local insight: Grab a seat at the bar to watch them prepare your dishes in front of you. citypassguide.com
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things to EAT where SEE international
Maison Marou Saigon - Chocolate
$-$$
Since its start in 2011, Marou has grown to be Vietnam’s premier chocolate institution. Their internationally acclaimed chocolate bars are all made with Vietnamese cacao. In addition to the well-known Single Origin dark chocolate range, you can discover the exclusive Maison Marou bars made and sold at Marou’s café/patisserie/ chocolate factory. Sit down, take a break from your busy tour of Saigon and pick one of their many fresh pastries, all made with their worldclass chocolate. It’s also the perfect place to find a gift for friends with a sweet tooth. 167 Calmette, D.1 028 7300 5010 Mon-Thu 9:00am-10:00pm, Fri-Sun 9:00am-11:00pm we@maisonmarou.com maisonmarou.com
Local insight: Make sure to try Maison Marou Saigon’s hot chocolate and eclairs. You won’t find any better in town. citypassguide.com
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Vietnamese Restaurants 5ku - Barbecue
$-$$
When in Rome‌ drink beers and eat barbecue on little wooden chairs! Always busy thanks to its great food. Prepare to sweat a little. 29 Thai Van Lung, D.1
further suggestions
Bep Me In - Traditional
$-$$
Good place to get to know traditional Vietnamese dishes, with a rustic ambience to match. Service is excellent. 136/9 Le Thanh Ton, D.1
Di Mai - Traditional
$$-$$$
Head to the base of Ben Thanh Tower for a feast in a vintage-nostalgic atmosphere. Di Mai translates to Aunty Mai, the perfect name for the home-cooking style of this restaurant. 136 Le Thi Hong Gam, D.1
Bun Rieu Nha - Traditional
$$
Step away from that bowl of pho and try something new. Bun Rieu Nha will serve you up a steaming bowl of rice vermicelli noodle soup with whole freshwater crabs for an excellent price. 93 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D.1
Hoi An Sense - Traditional
$-$$
If you are looking for a glamorous restaurant with traditional but gourmet Vietnamese recipes, look no further. Don’t miss their live dance and music performances. Rooftop 12 Phan Ke Binh, D.1
Quan Bui - Family Restaurant
$-$$
Authentic Vietnamese cuisine at reasonable, though not cheap, prices. Three restaurants across the city. 17A Ngo Van Nam, D.1 / 39 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 / 55A-55B Ngo Quang Huy, D.2 54
things to EAT where SEE further suggestions
Vietnam House Restaurant Fine Dining
$$-$$$
The decor in this two-floor fine dining venue is best described as grandiose. Vietnamese classics refined with international ingredients. Never tried pigeon? Now’s your chance! 93-95-97 Dong Khoi, D.1
AnAn Saigon - Modern
$$
Banh xeo taco? Snail Pizza? Vietnamese dishes have gone international – and it’s delicious! Contemporary decoration. 89 Ton That Dam, D.1
Noir - Modern
$$-$$$
Start by choosing a Vietnamese or Western menu and then dine in the
dark! Blind waiters will guide you through this memorable experience in taste. Perfect for a romantic evening 180D, Hem 178 Hai Ba Trung, D.1
Propaganda - Modern
$-$$
Vietnamese classics with a modern twist. Propaganda art on the wall. Taste their bun thit nuong. 21 Han Thuyen, D.1
Wrap & Roll - Modern
$
Several branches across the city. Pick the classics from the menu or create your own delicious rolls. Do it yourself fun! 62 Hai Ba Trung, D.1 / 11 Huynh Thuc Khang, D.1 citypassguide.com
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International Restaurants May Restaurant - International $$ A warm, welcoming staff and great food make this ambient restaurant a lovely place for dinner or drinks.
further suggestions
56-58 Bui Thi Xuan, D.1
Mekong Merchant - International $$ One of the first upmarket restaurants in D.2. Locally sourced food and a great outdoor seating space in the courtyard. Casual vibe. 23 Thao Dien, D.2
The Elbow Room - International $$ Big portions for big appetites. Hearty portions of burgers, pasta and pizzas. Try the Lumberjack Breakfast to start off your day right. 52 Pasteur, D.1
Q.itchen Factory - International $$ In the middle of D.7, this restaurant offers masterfully cooked Vietnamese tapas in an ultra-modern, openkitchen dining layout. Lot 9, Road 7, Tan Thuan Dong, D.7
Trois Gourmands - French $ $ $ Upscale French food in a Parisian bistro. Book a table on the terrasse and enjoy their homemade cheese. 39 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2
Al Sham - Syrian $ You wouldn’t expect to find a Syrian restaurant in the centre of Saigon but Al Sham is the real deal. Fantastic bread and hummus. 300 Vo Van Kiet, D.1 56
Ciao Bella - Italian $$ Centrally located Italian favourite with a warm atmosphere. Good wine list. Pick a pasta dish! 11 Dong Du, D.1
MAD Cow - Barbecue $-$$ Mad Cow is a high quality venue with a casual ambience, which offers fantastic grilled steak and seafood. It is located in the Pullman Saigon Centre. 184 Tran Hung Dao, D.1
NAMO Tuscan Grill - Italian $$-$$$ More contemporary and less cosy than others in the city. Upscale prices that match the location. Good food though! 146-148 Pasteur, D.1
Pendolasco - Italian $-$$ An award-winning pizza chef combined with lush garden seating. Your best choice if you’re looking for an Italian trattoria ambience. 30 Tong Huu Dinh, D.2
Snap Café - Family Restaurant $-$$ A huge outdoor space with a playground, a pool table and several shops. Burger Day with two free drinks on Wednesdays! 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2
Au Lac do Brazil
Churrascaria Barbeque
$$
A traditional all-you-can-eat Brazilian-style barbecue restaurant – go there hungry! 238 Pasteur, D.3
11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, D.1
Sorae Restaurant & Lounge
168 Vo Van Kiet, D.1 $
For a refreshing treat on a hot Saigon day, seek out Greenie Scoop’s Italian gelato. You can have your pick of 18 fruity flavours, including strawberry, coconut, melon, ginger, durian and even calamansi. Plus, each scoop is 100% naturally produced, and no chemicals are added! 52 Ngo Duc Ke, D.1
Gyumaru Hamburg & Steak Burgers $$ Japanese-style burger restaurant in Little Tokyo (p. 48). Don’t doubt their expertise! Excellent burgers. 8/3 Le Thanh Ton, D.1
MAD House - Steakhouse $$-$$$ Well known for steaks, but it’s best for breakfast on a weekend morning.
$$-$$$
Top Japanese food served on top of Saigon. Ask for a table by the window! Smokers should also check out their Cigar Club. AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D.1
Sushi Ko - Sushi $ Local residents love this place since the quality is good and the prices sensationally cheap. Look for an extremely non-descript building down a side-street in D.4.
further suggestions
$$
Widely recognised as the best BBQ in town, this restaurant celebrates everything meaty and delicious. The meals come with local craft beers from the top local brands. Greenie Scoop - Ice-Cream
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, D.2
Japanese
Quan Ut Ut Barbeque, Burgers, Beer
Beautiful garden setting with a pen filled with real live bunnies. Great for children.
things to EAT where SEE
Arirang BBQ - Korean $$-$$$ Korea is the home of barbecue in Asia. Arirang BBQ’s meat selection is excellent and the side dishes are delicious and plentiful.
122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, D.4 / 26/1 Le Thanh Ton
Yen Sake & Sushi - Japanese $$-$$$ One of the city's best Japanese restaurants with sushi and sashimi imported from Japan. Pair their excellent oysters with a bottle of sake. 92 Nam Ki Khoi Nghia, D.1; 8 Dong Khoi, D.1; 15A Le Quy Don, D.3; 123 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D.3; 185 Nguyen Duc Canh, D.7
TukTuk Thai Bistro - Thai $-$$ Best Thai restaurant in the city, with good service and sleek interior designs. The yellow curry with crispy egg noodles never disappoints. 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 / 38 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 citypassguide.com
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Sunday Specials Sunday Dumplings at The Racha Room
$$-$$$
The Racha Room is a sleek bar and restaurant that offers Pan-Asian cuisine. While you get 50% off their cocktails during happy hour from Monday to Saturday, 5pm to 8pm, the real deal is their food special on Sundays: a plateful of any kind of dumplings for a mere VND60,000! Every Sunday from 4pm to 12am 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1
Sunday Brunch at Hotel Des Arts
$$$
For recovery and replenishment on a Sunday afternoon, look no further than Champagne Brunch Club, hosted at Social Club Restaurant from way up high on Hotel Des Arts Saigon’s 23rd floor. Enjoy an exquisite spread of food and drink, plus the resident DJ, for VND1,988,000++ per guest Every Sunday from 12pm to 3pm Social Club Restaurant, 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3
Binh Quoi 1 - Vietnamese Buffet $$ Vietnamese food, even in just a single region, is so varied that it’s often hard to make a choice. If you want to sample the Southern specialities, head out to rural Binh Quoi 1 (p. 114) on Friday to Sunday afternoon for an extensive buffet in a lush oasis. Here, you’ll get it all at once, from spring rolls to sweet soup, and it is the perfect family destination, just half an hour away from bustling downtown Saigon! Binh Quoi 1 Tourist Village Fri-Sun 5:00pm & Sun 11:00am VND270,000 (adults), VND150,000 (children)
Binh Quoi 2 - Vietnamese Buffet $$ On Saturdays and Sundays, you can sample an extensive seafood buffet. Hours and prices are the same as Binh Quoi 1. 1147 Binh Quoi Street, Binh Thanh D. Sat-Sun 5:00pm-8:00pm 58
where to
DRINK
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht coffee
Clubs, Bars & Cafés Price Guide (per drink) $ - up to VND99,000
$$ - VND100,000-199,000
$$$ - VND200,000 & above
Coffee Culture in Saigon Coffee was introduced to Vietnam in 1857 by the French but only began to develop as a major agricultural export following the American War. Production skyrocketed at the end of the 20th century and today, Vietnam is the second-largest global exporter of Robusta and Arabica beans after Brazil. Vietnamese ca phe, enjoyed black or with condensed milk, is something that every traveller must try at least once. The classic is ca phe sua da: iced milk coffee. Roasted in butter and sometimes fish-sauce, Vietnamese coffee is thicker and sweeter than what you’re probably used to. Grab a coffee to go in a plastic cup, or join local men on their lawn chairs drinking it from glass mugs. Where Vietnamese Drink Their Coffee One thing that Saigonese are proud of is the diversity of their city’s coffee shops. There is a café for everyone and every style. Middle-aged and older locals love to sit in sidewalk coffee shops with newspapers in their hands to start a day. Young people gather in the areas around the Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 17) for ca phe bet (literally ‘coffee on the flat ground’) or flock to independent coffee shops like Thuc Coffee (try 182 Pasteur, D.1) and Sai Gon Oi (42 Nguyen Hue, D.1) to enjoy the good coffee and free, fast Wi-Fi. Fancier coffee shops like Trung Nguyen Coffee (try 7 Nguyen Van Chiem, D.1) – the Vietnamese equivalent of Starbucks with a chain of cafés spread across the city – are popular among teenagers who come not only for coffee but also to socialise. For specialty coffee, people head to high-end coffee bars like L’Usine (p. 61) or Cafe RuNam (p.61).
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things to DRINK where SEE coffee
Cafe RuNam - Coffee House
$-$$
Upscale café with several branches across the city. For a more glamorous experience try RuNam d’Or in D.1.
The Loft - Café $
A coffee shop with just the right amount of vintage style. Try their marinated rice paper salad with beef jerky and a coconut and calamansi juice to change things up. First floor, 2 Dong Khoi, D.1
Mockingbird Café - Local
$
Probably the most popular indie café among expats. On the 4th floor of a ramshackle apartment building. 4th floor, 14 Ton That Dam, D.1
Ngoi Nha So 7 - Local
$
A student favourite, hidden in a rundown colonial villa. 7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D.3
$$
Cosy ambience. Try to find a table on the terrasse to look down on Dong Khoi Street. 223/2K Pham Viet Chanh, D.1
Bistro: 202 Pasteur, D.3/ Café: 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1/d’Or: 3 Cong Xa Paris, D.1
Ca Phe Co Ba - Coffee House
The 1985 Café - Japanese-Inspired
$-$$
A relaxed place for a coffee on the 1st floor of one of D.1’s hip apartment buildings. 26 Ly Tu Trong, D.1
The Workshop - Café $-$$ International drinks and food in a coworking space environment. Centrally located with a separate meeting room that can be privatised. 27 Ngo Duc Ke, D.1
L’Usine - Coffee / Shopping
$-$$
The epicentre of Saigon's coffee shop scene, they serve Segafredo coffee! Their three locations are also known for their indie-cool shopping and great food. 151 Dong Khoi/ 70B Le Loi/ 19 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 citypassguide.com
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht craft beer
Saigon’s Craft Beer Scene We certainly wouldn’t have written this five years ago, but recently the craft beer scene has exploded in Saigon. The credit for this rapid proliferation must go to the brewmasters who have put their skills to the test. Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p. 63) is undoubtedly the granddaddy of craft brewing in Saigon, and should be your first beer destination. These dedicated brewmasters have several awards under their belt, including a World Beer Cup award for their Imperial Chocolate Stout. We also recommend the Passion Fruit Wheat Ale. 62
Winking Seal Beer Company (50 Dang Thi Nhu, D.1) is another fixture in the craft beer community, and with good reason, thanks to exquisite beauties like the summery Mekong Mashup ale and the hopinfused IPA. In the 2 years since it opened, East West Brewery (181 Ly Tu Trong, D1) has also made a huge impact in Saigon's craft beer scene. Try a beer tour to see how the almighty brew is made. Honourable mentions definitely go to Belgo (p. 63), Tê Tê Craft Beer and Fuzzy Logic Brewing – to be tried at BiaCraft (p. 63) – and Heart of Darkness (p. 63), where great beer comes with great pizza.
things to DRINK where SEE
Pasteur Street Brewing Company - Craft Beer $-$$ Since it opened in early 2015, Pasteur Street Brewing Company has become the premier venue for craft beer in Saigon. Enjoy their unique brews such as the 2016 World Beer Cup Winner Cyclo Imperial Chocolate Stout. Don't forget to check out the rooftop terrace of their Hem Taproom!
craft beer
144 Pasteur, D.1 028 7300 7375 11:00am–11:00pm pasteurstreet.com cheers@pasteurstreet.com
Local insight: Get their Sampling Flight with 175ml glasses of six different beers to find your personal favourite. BiaCraft - Craft Beer
$-$$
After-work go-to place in their D.3 location. They have beers from all major craft brewers. Perfect for a comprehensive beer tasting! 1 Le Ngo Cat, D.3 / 90 Xuan Thuy, D.2
Belgo - Craft Beer
$$
Belgian beer expertise in upper D.1. Convivial atmosphere and great hearty food. Ask for their in-house brews! 159A Nguyen Van Thu, D.1
Heart of Darkness - Craft Beer
$-$$
Cosy D.1 location, despite the name. Their quality beer creations can be paired with great food. 31D Ly Tu Trong, D.1
Local insight: One essential factor of local beer drinking culture is the idea of drinking together. The local version of “cheers” is “dzo”, and often follows a countdown of “1, 2, 3...” or in Vietnamese “moột, hai, ba…dzo!” The first Vietnamese phrase that most travellers will learn, and one that fills the city’s backpacker strip every night. Go local at Saigon Xua va Nay (37 Nguyen Trung Truc, D.1) saigon
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht bars/lounges
Chill Skybar
$$-$$$
Chill Skybar is a modern and vibrant outdoor entertainment space and luxurious lounge. Its exclusive 26th-floor location provides incredible views of Saigon’s skyline. Chill - Vietnam’s first “sky bar” - continues to lead the way with top international artists, bespoke cocktails, and exceptional guest service. Chill is the ultimate destination for party-goers looking for a timeless experience. Chill Skybar’s “Happy Hour” (17:30-20:00) is Saigon’s top choice for tourists to take in the city view & lights while enjoying the evening’s libations. 26th Floor, AB Tower Saigon, 76A Le Lai, D.1 5:30pm-2:00am 093 882 2838 info@chillsaigon.com chillsaigon.com
Local Insight: Chill Skybar’s panoramic open air views of Saigon are a unique experience in the city. 64
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things to DRINK where SEE bars/lounges
Catwalk - Club / Karaoke
$$-$$$
Catwalk is hosted by the International Tourist Club (ITC), conveniently located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City in the annex wing of New World Saigon Hotel. Opened in 1995, this modern nightlife centre spans three floors, and features a live band and DJ zone, 14 private karaoke rooms, a karaoke bar and a great lounge area to round off your evening. Looking to organise a social or business party? A graduation or holiday party? Catwalk has something for everyone. Come enjoy your favourite cocktails and sing your heart out at Ho Chi Minh City’s premier nightspot. International Tourist Club, 76 Le Lai, D.1 7:30pm-2:00am 028 3824 3760 itclubsaigon.com.vn
Local insight: Jam out to Catwalk’s DJ beats or their live bands, who play international music in a variety of languages. saigon
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht bars/lounges
Saigon’s Rooftop Bar Frenzy Saigon loves its sky-high emporiums of lounge seating and premium cocktails. These are the places to see and be seen, while perched high above Saigon’s restless street life. For the ritzy of the ritziest, there’s no beating Chill Skybar (p. 64). Cocktails and vistas are equally top-of-the-range. A more mature location perfect for people who might want a signature cocktail lies in Shri (72 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1). Good news is: you can always join the party next door at MGallery Social Club (p. 67). Those who want to delve into Saigon’s rooftop underground culture (yes, it does exist) can do so at hidden Mary Jane’s The Bar (85 Nguyen Huu Cau, D.1). Take the elevator to the top floor, then walk up the stairs. Note: nomen est omen here. Sky XX is a great place to touch the sky with a well-crafted cocktail in your hand. Join the party at 33 Le Duan, D.1 Broma: Not a Bar - Rooftop Bar
$$
Up hidden stairs on a rooftop overlooking Nguyen Hue, Broma offers a lively ambiance, live music and DJs, and a great drinks selection. 41 Nguyen Hue, D.1
Glow Skybar - Rooftop Bar
$$-$$$
This sophisticated D.1 rooftop bar is a favourite among the more glamorous expat crowd. Good music selection (EDM and house), attentive staff and amazing views of the city. 93 Nguyen Du, D.1
Local insight: From 5:30pm to 8:00pm, happy hour drinks start at VND90,000 and snacks at VND70,000. 66
$$-$$$
things to DRINK where SEE
Air 360 Sky Lounge - Rooftop Bar
Air 360 Sky Lounge is an elegant rooftop bar enjoying fantastic 360-degree sunset views. New beer & snack combos are perfect to destress after work. At night, dance & DJ performances attract a youthful, trendy crowd, especially at events such as Ladies Night, Top 40, and The Act providing exciting entertainment every weekend.
bars/lounges
Rooftop 22nd Floor, 136 – 138 Le Thi Hong Gam, D.1 5:30pm-2:00am 097 458 7788 air@air360skylounge.com air360skylounge.com
Local insight: Happy Hour is perfect for beautiful Saigon sunset views with delicious beverages. Blank Lounge - Best at Sunset
$-$$
This brand-new lounge, on the 75th & 76th floors of Saigon’s Landmark 81, SE Asia's tallest building, offers unparalleled views of the city for travelers and residents, business people and couples. Enjoy coffee, tea, cocktails, craft beer, canapés, pastries, and the best views from 9am to 1am. 75-76F, Landmark 81 Building - 208 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh D. +84 (0) 903672944 09:00am–01:00pm blank-lounge.com hi@blank-lounge.com
Local insight: Blank's Sunset Package offers great food & drink combos with incredible sundown views MGallery Social Club - Rooftop Bar
$$-$$$
Glitzy rooftop location with stellar city skyline views on top of the classy Hotel des Arts Saigon in D.1. On weekends, Social Club is packed with discerning party-goers dancing to cool, funky beats with delightful craft drinks. 23rd -24th F, Hotel des Arts Saigon, 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3 5:30pm-2:00am 028 3989 8888 h9231@accor.com hoteldesartssaigon.com
Local Insight: Social Club's regular pool parties are the ultimate way to spend a night of fun and frivolity! citypassguide.com
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht
Best Places for a Date/Tinder
bars/lounges
But what happens when you match with that special someone and plans are made to bring your infatuation into the real world? Where best to start that first date? First, be warned: many bars and some coffee shops will simply be too loud to carry a conversation, even outside. Try these venues instead.
Dating has a new name in Saigon, and its name is Tinder. Almost ubiquitously used by anyone who’s single (and some who aren’t), the infamous dating app is pretty much de rigueur if you want to meet up with a local without using or listening to creepy pick-up lines in the bar.
Vung Oi Mo Ra (17 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D.3), tucked away on the first floor of a run-down French villa in a dead-end alleyway, is both a romantic and original cafe for a first date. Come early in the evening to have a drink before the regular live acoustic performances start. If a boutique lounge is more your style, check out Small Vacancy (178/4b Pasteur, D.1). It's a bit hidden away, and when you enter its like stepping into a posh gentleman's club. Snuffbox Lounge (first floor, 14 Ton That Dam, D.1) is another chic spot. This cosy, upscale, 1920s-themed place complete with smooth jazz and funky music sets just the right mood for a date. Or if you want to skip the talking, head straight to the party at Lush Bar (p.72) or Catwalk (p.65) for some get-to-know-you dancing. Local insight: In Vietnam, it is customary for the man to request a date. Be aware that, even on Tinder, most locals are looking for love above lust. 68
things to DRINK where SEE bars/lounges
Care for a drink? You’ll find no shortage of options in HCMC, a city as famous for its beer gardens as for its rooftop bars. Saigon is the nightlife capital of Vietnam, so regardless of whether you prefer to have a sip in a swanky riverside cocktail lounge or to cheer on your favourite team in a rowdy sports bar, there’s something for everyone. Here are our top picks to quench your thirst. Cheers! Sports Bars and Pubs Phatty’s - Sports Bar
$-$$
A great place in D.1 for sports enthusiasts to catch the game on
any of their seven screens. Attentive service. 48 Ton That Thiep, D.1 O'Briens Factory - Irish Pub
$-$$
A true, traditional Irish public house in central Saigon, with authentic decor, pub grub, live music and pool upstairs. 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1
Buddha Bar - Sports Bar Open in Thao Dien since 2011, the Buddha Bar has a following for its bar food and good drinks. 5 large screen TV’s show the latest sporting events. 7 Thao Dien, D.2 citypassguide.com
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht
Bars and Lounges
bars/lounges
Saigon Outcast - Outdoor Bar
Layla - Cocktail Bar
$-$$
An Australian-owned bar in D.1 with cool industrial design. Well-made drinks, good music selection, great venue! Check out their patio. 63 Dong Du, D.1 $-$$
Beyond doubt this is one of the must-do institutions in Saigon’s bar scene. Spacious, open-air indie setting, includes a climbing wall! 188 Nguyen Van Huong, D.2
Drinking & Healing - Cocktail Bar
$$-$$$
Sit back and relax with top quality craft cocktails and a R&B/hip hop soundtrack in this hidden speakeasy. 2nd Floor, 25 Ho Tung Mau, D1
The Deck Saigon Cocktail Bar / Restaurant
$$-$$$
Top spot for sundowners in D.2. Mingle with the in-crowd during happy hour from 4 to 7pm and relax with river views. 38 Nguyen U Di, D.2
Firkin Bar - Cocktail Bar
$
Bespoke cocktails with a fantastic selection for whiskey lovers, set in a high class yet cosy ambiance. 20 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
Xu Restaurant Lounge - Cocktail Bar
$$
Great to get your night going with reasonably priced cocktails and booming music. Close to the opera in D.1. No shorts policy. 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D.1 70
things to DRINK where SEE
Nightlife in the City
bars/lounges
Nightclubs in HCMC will please even the most demanding party-goers, though be prepared the music will be played at top volume. Trendy venues will not look very different from the places you could visit in Europe or the US. They will play the latest music, as well as the mainstream club hits. Prices are generally low: a cocktail rarely costs more than $10, even in trendy venues. Most nightclubs will close around 3am, but you can keep the party going until the early morning in several after-hours drinking holes. Considering the wide variety and diversity of bars and clubs spread across the city, it’s never a difficult thing to find one that you like. Clubs Apocalypse Now - Night Club
$-$$
A Saigon nightlife classic with affordable prices. Go to the 2nd floor to avoid escort girls mixing in the crowd. 2B Thi Sach, D.1
Blanchy’s Tash - Dance Bar
$$
Classy, centrally located bar. Less conversation, more action. Ladies’ night with free drinks on Wednesdays! 95 Hai Ba Trung, D.1
Canalis Club - Night Club
$-$$
If you want to see Vietnamese-style clubbing, check out Canalis. Flashy lighting, glitzy decor, tableladen dancefloor, with DJs and live performers. 59 Huynh Thuc Khang, D.1
Envy - Night Club
$$-$$$
This glamorous nightclub hosts spectacular light shows and acrobatic performances in its art-deco setting. 74-76 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1 citypassguide.com
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht night clubs
Lush Bar - Night Club $-$$ When you arrive at Lush, you know you've come to a party. At the cutting edge of Saigon nightlife for years, the stylish graphics, comfortable lounge seating and great variety of Western dance music is sure to offer something for everyone looking for an unforgettable night out. 2 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 028 3910 4199 8:00pm to late lushsaigon
Local insight: Lush gets jumping on Ladies' Nights (Tuesdays) and now they are bringing on a new themed party with Latin Night on Thursdays. Piu Piu - Night Club
$-$$
Piu Piu has three different floors: a dance club (mostly hip hop), a pool bar and a rooftop with pop music. Come after 10pm. 97 Hai Ba Trung, D.1
Qui Lounge - Club Lounge
$$-$$$
Qui Lounge is a posh restaurant and bar that gets crowded thanks to great DJs. If you’re out in a group, order one of their huge “flowing bowl” party cocktails to share. 22 Le Thanh Ton, D.1
Local insight: Qui Lounge is located in the Japanese quarter (p. 48). Stroll through the alleys before partying! The Lighthouse - Night Club
$-$$
This is a rather recent addition to Saigon’s party scene. There are two floors and many different areas here to dance and relax. Prices are fair, cocktails are amazing and the DJs put on a wide range of tunes. Entrance is free before 10pm. 6th Floor, 104 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1
Local insight: It’s called The Lighthouse for a reason. Grab your drink and go up to the top! 72
things to DRINK where SEE live music
Best Live Music Admittedly, Saigon isn’t the best city in the world for live music, but if you look hard enough, you can still find some good stuff. International acts don’t come to HCMC often – although this is changing – so your best bet is to see a local band or open mic night. Yoko Café (p. 74) in D.3 is the unofficial ruler of live music in the city. This venue hosts a bit of everything, so check their well-updated Facebook page to see what’s on. Music at this hotspot ranges from reggae to jazz to punk, so it’s really a toss-up as to what you’ll get. Chances are it’ll be good, though! Hard Rock Café (p. 74), also in D.1, is another option for music lovers. Bands of all types hold
court here in the newly renovated and spacious lower level. Expect good prices on cocktails and beer. Jazz lovers will be best served at SaxN’Art (28 Le Loi, D.1). Latin music also has a home in Saigon, thanks mainly to the efforts of two established nightspots: Cuba la Casa del Mojito (P. 74) in D.1 and Indika (p. 74) in the Da Kao neighbourhood of D.1. Both of these venues host latin nights -- the former much more loudly than the latter, which focuses on acoustic musical stylings. For crazier nights out with live entertainment, keep in mind that Chill Skybar (p. 64), Blanchy’s Tash (p. 71) and Lush (p. 72) all regularly embrace guest DJs and live performances. citypassguide.com
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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht live music
Cuba la Casa del Mojito - Dance Bar
$$
If you feel like dancing to (mostly) live bands playing Latin rhythms combined with the city’s best mojitos, this is the place to go. 91 Pasteur, D.1
Hard Rock Café HCMC - Music Bar
$$
Regular live music covering everything from rock to the hottest DJ's in town. The prices are surprisingly reasonable. Best snack? The Hard Rock Nachos. Located inside MPlaza Saigon. 39 Le Duan, D.1
Indika Saigon - Indie Bar
$
Another, more centrally located expat favourite in D.1. Cheap beer, graffiti on the walls, a chilled-out vibe and regular art/music events. 43 Nguyen Van Giai, D.1
Remi Thao Dien - Live Music
$$-$$$
A hot spot in District 2 for music lovers with live blues, jazz, latin, flamenco, and more on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 92 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D.2
Purple Jade - Live Music
$$-$$$
If you want somewhere to sip an expertly crafted cocktail while enjoying the occasional saxophone or piano performance, this place will delight you. InterContinental, Corner Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D.1
Social Club - Restaurant
$$$
Wine lovers should try the Wednesday night wine and cheese special at the Hotel des Arts. A live band plays jazz and pop standards. MGallery Saigon - 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3
Yoko Café - Live Music
$$-$$$
Experience alternative Vietnamese youth culture in D.3. Reasonably priced beers, friendly staff and local bands of different genres. 22 Nguyen Thi Dieu, D.3 74
SHOP
citypassguide.com
things to SEE
where to
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where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht souvenirs
Shopping Price Guide (per main item) $ - up to VND299,000
$$ - VND300,000-499,000
$$$ - VND500,000 & above
Porcelain & Ceramics
After Chinese rule, ceramics developed over time to become distinctly Vietnamese. Traditionally, cobalt blue and white are the most common colours, though there are others available. Prices vary with quality. A beautiful tea set and tray can start at VND250,000. Local insight: Nguyen Thong and Le Quy Don Streets, both in D.3, are famous for cheap and exquisite porcelain. Bargaining is expected and careful inspection is a must. Marble
Long held to be the most luxurious stone, souvenir shops now sell marble at fairly cheap, yet still overpriced rates – bargain and compare prices! Bamboo
Popular bamboo products include vases, trays and platters. Test the quality of the bamboo: there should not be any splinters. For design lovers, well-crafted trays can be found at Sadec District (p. 82). Buffalo Horn
A few Saigon-based jewellers work with buffalo horn. It is used in products like jewellery, eating utensils, pipes and hair decorations. They say that the horn contains the buffalo spirit, and the power is transferred to those who wear or use it. Collecting buffalo horn does not require the animals to be harmed or slaughtered. Try Duy Tan - Saigon Artisan (84 Le Loi, D.1). Local insight: Lighter shades of horn can cost up to three times the price of darker shades. 76
things to SHOP where SEE souvenirs
Minh Long - Ceramics
$$-$$$
Centrally located, this is one of the largest porcelain showrooms in Southern Vietnam. It is a shopping paradise of porcelain products including tableware, jewellery and souvenirs with unique designs rich in Vietnamese culture. These designs mix national identity with exotic patterns and traditional daily life. Beautiful landscapes and historical monuments remind visitors of Vietnam’s origin. The work succeeds in bringing Vietnamese culture to the world, which is Minh Long’s declared mission. 17 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D.3 9:00am-9:00pm 028 3930 2634 4th Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D.1 10:00am-9:00pm 028 3821 8268 Minh Long also has multiple locations in Hanoi minhlong.com sales@minhlong.com
Local insight: Since 1970, Minh Long’s ceramics have spanned over four generations. citypassguide.com
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Couleurs by Réhahn Fine Art Photography
$$-$$$
Réhahn’s stunning fine art photographic portraits and landscapes take us on a journey through the most beautiful and remote areas of Vietnam and the world. His work is highly sought after by visitors and collectors alike, making this gallery a must-see for anyone interested in art and photography. Prints are available for purchase in various mediums and formats including postcards, coffee table books, and high-quality, limited edition collector prints. 151 Dong Khoi (Floor 1), D1 08:30 - 21:30 0868 894376 saigon@couleurs.gallery www.couleurs.gallery Couleurs by Réhahn Fine Art Photography
Local insight: Réhahn has a second gallery at the InterContinental Saigon that focuses on his limited edition collector prints. Go check out this special exclusive! 78
things to SHOP where SEE
Mekong Quilts $$-$$$ Mekong Quilts is a social enterprise specializing in high quality, hand crafted quilts and accessories. The Indochine inspired quilts use patchwork, piecing and intricate stitch detail to create a contemporary aesthetic.
souvenirs
68 Le Loi, 1st floor, D.1 / 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem www.mekongquilts.com 9:00 – 18:30 sales.marketing@mekongquilts.com
Local Insight: The quilt you buy here supports jobs with fair wages and benefits for hundreds of Vietnamese women. Antiques
Le Cong Kieu Street is packed with more than 60 antique shops. Be aware that most goods are reproductions and keep your receipts for customs. Wood Carvings
A thriving craft, local wood is carved into trinkets, figurines and burl furniture. Check out Cong Hoa Street in Tan Binh for more than 20 local stores specialising in wood carving. Lacquerware
Vietnamese lacquerware is famous for its beauty and durability, and is applied to everything from tableware to furniture. Shop at Nga Arts & Craft (91 Le Thanh Ton, D.1) Local insight: Look for air bubbles in the lacquer, a sign of poor production quality. Lacquer Painting
Nowhere in the world is the diversity of lacquer arts more evident than in Vietnam, ranging from museum pieces to holiday ornaments. The 2,000-year-old art form combines the traditional Asian and European styles. Local insight: For the perfect piece, check Dong Khoi and Mac Thi Buoi Streets in D.1. citypassguide.com
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Contemporary Art
The limited number of contemporary art spaces in HCMC (p. 26) is slowly rising. Note that finding original pieces can be difficult, since there is a roaring trade in knock-offs, but the mostly hidden art scene still provides some stunning creations at low prices. Local insight: Be sure to check out Galerie Quynh (p. 26) on 118 Nguyen Van Thu, D.1. Traditional Art
Vietnam’s local artisans produce stunningly ornate work, be it block prints, silk paintings or calligraphy. The ancient practice of embroidery has expanded to depict majestic landscapes, animals and traditional Vietnamese flowers. Local insight: Browse the shops around Dong Khoi and try XQ (106 Le Loi, D.1) for a vast selection of embroidery. Propaganda Art
In Vietnam, Propaganda Art truly came into its own during the American War. The socialist style now has a colourful retro feel and can be found on old posters, T-shirts and handbags. Local insight: Saigon Kitsch (43 Ton That Thiep, D.1) has a collection of Vietnamese propaganda articles printed on all types of accessories. Zippos
Once a faithful companion to US soldiers during the war, these enduring lighters can be found throughout Vietnam. They are priced according to the year, design, quality and condition. Get them at Yersin Market (104 Yersin, D.1). Local insight: Most Zippos sold are copies – even the one Martin Sheen had in “Apocalypse Now” wasn’t real. 80
things to SHOP where SEE souvenirs/food
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where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht souvenirs/food
Culinary Gifts No matter where you are in the world, the classics reign supreme. Coffee, tea and alcohol themed gifts will never lead you astray. Get your coffee and filter at one of the many Phuc Long shops spread around town (try 63 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1). For a tea tasting, check out the collection at newly opened Nguyen Shack (6/15 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D.1). They also have herbal spirits and rice wine on offer. For stylish local wines with a twist, seek out The Bloom (2 Thi Sach, D.1). We recommend the passion fruit version. Visit Maison Marou (p.53) for outstanding chocolate gifts, based on Vietnamese cacao. And for that uncle who loves to cook, why not choose what’s best in Vietnam: Phu Quoc fish sauce? Get it on the island (p. 120) – or at L’Usine (p. 61). Phu Quoc is not only famous for fish sauce: some of the finest pepper
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in Southeast Asia grows there. Buy it at Annam Gourmet Market (16 Hai Ba Trung, D.1). Artbook - cookbook store
$-$$$
This is the place to find beautiful full-colour books about Vietnam. If you’re searching for a perfect gift or souvenir to bring home check out their cookbook selection. They have everything from extensive recipes for banh mi to the an encyclopedia of pho. 1B1 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1; 43 & 158 Dong Khoi, D.1 46 Le Loi, D.1, 28 Vo Van Tan, D.3
Sadec District Ceramics and cookware
$$-$$$
Come to this well-stocked store for their ethereal ceramic collection but stay and explore their cookware, bamboo baskets and cutting boards handcrafted from Southeast Asian wood. Check out their brand new location in calming D.2 63 Xuan Thuy. D.2.
things to SHOP where SEE fashion
Metiseko
$$-$$$
Metiseko is a French-Vietnamese high-end fashion brand that takes inspiration from Vietnamese culture, traditions and landscapes. Its creative team designs and creates unique patterned fabrics, ready-to-wear for women & men and homeware, using organic cotton and sustainable mulberry silk from ethical sources that respect both social and environmental principles. 101 Dong Khoi, D.1 028 38238481 157 Dong Khoi, D.1 028 39158825 Metiseko @ Snap CafĂŠ, 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2 8:30am-9:30pm info@metiseko.com metiseko.com
Local insight: If you are looking for souvenirs to reminisce about your time in Vietnam or to give as presents, do not forget to lay your hands on Metiseko’s popular scarf collection. citypassguide.com
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Fashion & Tailors Saigon is fashionable, yet design preferences can differ from the international trends and larger sizes can be hard to find. While you should check out Saigon’s boutiques, tailors are often a great alternative. A made-to-measure men’s shirt can easily come in at under $30! Bring your favourite blouse to copy or come with a clear idea (or photo) of what you want. There are plenty of shops around Ben Thanh Market (p. 20). Try stall no. 500 in the market hall or have your dream in silk woven at Thai Tuan Silk (222-224 Le Thanh Ton). Do invest some time - a suit made in one day will lack finesse. Local insight: The American tailor Kenn Smith is Saigon’s bespoke suit expert. Call 090 841 98 79 for an appointment. Hidden Boutique Shops in Saigon A number of Saigon’s ramshackle ex-apartment buildings have been turned into hip-looking coffee shops, workshops, co-working spaces and fashion boutiques in recent years. The core of these indie-cool meccas, and what sets them apart from the retail chains, is their individual and sometimes bespoke attention to detail. A run-down building located on 42 Nguyen Hue in District 1 offers nine storeys of independent shops and cafés. Check out The Maker (1st floor) for stylish clothing and accessories. They also have a café on the 3rd floor. The close by three-storey house on 42 Ton That Thiep has turned into a hipster paradise of trendy boutiques. BeUnique (2nd floor) caters to young people who love fashion but don’t want to break the bank. Last but not least, the timeworn building on 14 Ton That Dam is best known for its cafés but it’s also a great spot to shop for the latest clothing trends. Worth exploring!
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things to SHOP where SEE
Paris With Style Céline, the Saigon-based French personal shopper and image consultant for men and women, can change your look and your life by helping you choose new clothing and shop new trends. 90/5 Quoc Huong, D.2 01652230055 pariswithstyle.com; facebook.com/pariswithstyle/
fashion
Therese - Jewellery This reputable jeweller is a favourite of the Saigon expat crowd, unique pieces with top-quality materials. 9 Nguyen Thiep, D.1
Ao Dai Translated from Vietnamese as “long dress”, the form fitting but flowing ao dai is the Vietnamese national dress and the statutory uniform for high school girls. Adults now mostly wear these long tunics worn over silk trousers on the occasion of festivities and traditional ceremonies. There’s even a fairly fashionable men’s version. Have yours customised by famous designer Si Hoang (107 Dong Khoi, D.1)! Local insight: Body sizes vary, but it usually takes about four metres of fabric to make an ao dai. Conical Hats Created out of necessity to give shade without adding heat in Vietnam’s tropical climate, there is no more iconic souvenir than the Vietnamese non la, or “leaf hat”. This distinctive headpiece has become a national symbol representing the hardworking spirit of Vietnam. The conical hat is fashioned out of bamboo, with coconut or palm leaves hand-sewn into the frame. The non la can be found in most local markets, tourist shops and on Vietnamese people everywhere, especially in rural settings. It shouldn’t cost you more than VND100,000. Local insight: Look inside the hats to see designs cut into the leaves. citypassguide.com
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where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht malls/markets
Malls The Saigonese aren’t as mall-crazy as their neighbours in Singapore, but HCMC still has its fair share of malls. It’s also a great way to beat the heat. Central Ho Chi Minh City’s best mall is, arguably, Saigon Centre (65 Le Loi, D.1), offering topnotch international brands and food. Fancy Japanese chocolate, designer clothes or Cantonesestyle dumplings? Get them here. Vincom Center B (72 Le Thanh Ton, D.1) is great for high street brands. Diamond Plaza (34 Le Duan, D.1) combines upper-class shopping with a bowling alley and movie theatre. Impressively designed SC VivoCity (1059 Nguyen Van Linh) in Koreandominated D.7 should also be noted. 86
There you’ll find lots of entertainment options, such as a children’s play area and a CGV IMAX theatre (p. 101). Parkson Plaza (39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D.1; 184 Le Dai Hanh, D.11) has convenient locations throughout the city. Great for quality kitchenware and appliances. Saigon: Mecca of Markets Saigon has a market for every need. The rule of thumb for haggling is: start at half of the stated price and stay friendly, but don’t expect most vendors to accept your first price! If you don’t want to bargain, look out for fixed-price areas at Ben Thanh Market (p. 20) or Sense Market (23/9 Park, Pham Ngu Lao, D.1). At Saigon Square (77 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; D1, 179E-181-183-185 Hai Ba Trung, D.1) or Taka Plaza (102 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1; Sense
things to SHOP where SEE malls/markets
Market), you can find knock-offs and some overstock of designer brands for reasonable but not dirt cheap prices. Expect to pay VND150 300,000 for a T-shirt. The Russian Market (328 Vo Van Kiet, D.1) has similar prices but also includes thick jackets and clothes for cold weather. Nice quality coats can be found at VND1,000,000 ($43). If you‘d rather go to a tailor and buy your fabrics yourself, get them at Tan Dinh Market (300 Hai Ba Trung, D.1) or for fixed-prices head across the street to the row of fabric shops lining Hai Ba Trung. Chinatown (p. 32) is not only home to Binh Tay Market (p. 34) but also to the city’s Flower Market (Ho Thi Ky, D.10) and to a plethora of market streets, such as Lantern
Street (Luong Nhu Hoc, D.5) or the Decorations Market (31-3335 Chau Van Liem, D.5). D.1 has a nice selection of themed streets as well. Visit Antique Street (Le Cong Kieu, D.1) for a decorative keepsake, Huyen Tran Cong Chua Street for Sportswear or the Ben Thanh Night Market (Phan Chu Trinh, D.1) for food and souvenirs. And you may not need war surplus or camping gear, but quirky Yersin Market (104 Yersin, D.1) is definitely fun. Last but not least, Wet Markets are deeply rooted in Vietnamese culture. The most central is on Ton That Dam Street in D.1. Vuon Chuoi Market (428 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3) and the surrounding area contain a meandrous system of streets full of foods of all kinds: smelly, messy, authentic and delicious. citypassguide.com
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Shopping Streets
Stores with the same products are often bundled together, whether it’s a row of places selling safes or a strip of snail restaurants. Listed below are the streets where specific types of products can be found.
shopping streets
DISTRICT
1
88
LOCATED BETWEEN
STREET NAME
PRODUCT
NO.
Ton That Tung
IT Appliances
7C-145
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Nguyen Trai
Thi Sach
Hotels, Bars
7-15C
Le Thanh Ton Tran Hung Dao statue
Nguyen Cu Trinh
Computers
20-74
Tran Hung Dao Cong Quynh
Ly Tu Trong
Fashion
75-213
Truong Dinh Thu Khoa Huan
Huyen Tran Cong Chua
Sporting Goods
Whole street
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Nguyen Du
Le Cong Kieu
Antiques
1-27
Pho Duc Chinh Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
Hai Ba Trung
Fashion, Restaurants
137A447
Tran Quang Khai Nguyen Thi Minh Khai
Huynh Thuc Khang
Housewares, Perfume
1B-75
Ben Thanh Market Nguyen Hue
Mac Thi Buoi
Bars, Restaurants
33-97
Hai Ba Trung Nguyen Hue
Ham Nghi
Banks
79A-99
Ben Thanh Market Sai Gon River
Le Thanh Ton
Boutiques, Restaurants
1-245
Ton Duc Thang Ben Thanh Market
Thai Van Lung
Spa, Hotel, Restaurants
9-29
Mac Thi Buoi Le Thanh Ton
Ton That Thiep
Restaurants, Bars
3-49
Nguyen Hue Pasteur
PRODUCT
NO.
Mac Dinh Chi
Bars, Cafés
11-59C
Dien Bien Phu Le Duan
Le Loi
Souvenirs, Art
15-121
Ben Thanh Market Dong Khoi
Dong Khoi
Souvenirs, Boutiques
1-211
Ton Duc Thang Le Duan
Le Thi Hong Gam
Shoes, Wallets
2-78
Calmette Pho Duc Chinh
Nguyen Trai
Fashion, Restaurants
1-147
New World Saigon Ton That Tung
Luong Huu Khanh
Signs, Signboards
Whole street
Nguyen Trai Bui Thi Xuan
Bui Thi Xuan
Mid-Range Hotels
1-59
Cach Mang Thang 8 Le Thi Rieng
159373
Nguyen Thai Hoc Cong Quynh
201269
Pham Ngu Lao Tran Hung Dao
1-207
Tran Hung Dao Cong Quynh
Pham Ngu Lao De Tham Bui Vien
3
Travel Agents, Cafés, Restaurants, Souvenirs, Bars
Ly Thai To
Old Vespas
7-105B
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Le Hong Phong
Le Van Sy
Fashion, Cafés
311B351
Tran Quang Dieu Pham Van Hai
Cao Thang
Fashion, Restaurants
1-169
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Ba Thang Hai
Nguyen Dinh Chieu
Fashion, Restaurants
131567
Truong Dinh Nguyen Thien Thuat citypassguide.com
shopping streets
1
LOCATED BETWEEN
STREET NAME
things to SHOP where SEE
DISTRICT
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where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht further suggestions
When the average tourist thinks Vietnam, they think cheap. And yes, if you want to find that quirky “iPho” t-shirt for a couple of dollars, you will. However, Saigon has grown up to be regional business hub and has become the favourite playground for both the big retail players and the indie boutiques. Home Décor NGA Art & Craft House Wave and Funitures
$-$$$
These quality Vietnamese furniture and housewares are handmade by skilled artisans, blending innovative modern art with traditional styles. 91 Le Thanh Ton, D.1
Hanoia
$$-$$$
Artful home décor, jewellery and lacquer silk full of Vietnamese character. 15 Dong Du, D.1
Fashion Le Saigonais
$$$
Bright and airy cafe and chic 90
boutique with clothes by designer Dieu Anh. On the first floor of an old apartment building. 77-79 Ly Tu Trong, 1st floor, D.1
Metiseko
$$$
Beautiful garments made from quality Vietnamese silk and organic cotton. The brand is proud of its socially responsible practices and "Made in Vietnam" identity. 157 Dong Khoi, D.1, 101 Dong Khoi, D.1 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2
Toan Thinh Silk
$$-$$$
Silk fabrics naturally dyed into vibrant colours. Great for a gift or to source fabric to use for a bespoke garment. 195 Ly Tu Trong, D.1
Libé Workshop
$$-$$$
Two venues full of minimalist Vietnamese fashion. A local institution. 1st Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 1st Floor, 52 Nguyen Trai, D.5
where to
STAY
Renaissance Riverside Saigon citypassguide.com
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where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht introduction
Airbnb in Saigon
Hotels
Airbnb’s business is booming in Vietnam, with the number of listings increasing by the thousands each year. This is mostly due to Vietnam’s tourism industry being on the rise. Unlike hotels, that are mostly in the city centre, the listings are spread throughout the city, often resulting in accommodations in a more local setting. The added benefit of choosing Airbnb is you’re more likely to get local insights for the best places to eat, drink, and visit. If you’re lucky, your host may even show you around. Make sure you read the reviews of the listing before you book.
With more than five million tourists visiting Saigon each year, the city caters to a wide range of travellers. You can find everything from high-end luxury hotels to cosy guest houses and backpacker hostels. Set your budget, pick an area and enjoy the choice!
Tomato Projects (facebook.com/ tomatoprojects) and Christina (www.christinas.vn) are the most popular host on Airbnb in Saigon. 92
Local insight: Many of the fivestar hotels in District 1 do a booming business in Sunday buffet brunches that are open to the public. Luxury ingredients and free-flow champagne make it worth the rather expensive price tag. Top brunch picks are at Hotel des Arts (76 78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai), The InterContinental (P.93), Park Hyatt (P. 93) and Le Meridien (P.93).
things to STAY where SEE
Park Hyatt Saigon French colonial-style luxury hotel with world class venues and facilities, overlooking Saigon Opera House in central District 1. 2 Lam Son Square, D.1
Hotel Nikko Saigon
hotels
Hotel Nikko Saigon is a five-star hotel nestled within Saigon. Hotel Nikko Saigon's warm Japanese hospitality will please even the most refined guests. 177 Ly Tu Trong, D.1
InterContinental Saigon Only minutes to the cathedral (p. 17) and the post office (p. 17). Award-winning comfort with a sumptuous buffet. Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D.1
Le MĂŠridien Saigon A sophisticated hotel geared towards travellers with a penchant for new tastes and new cultures. Enjoy the saltwater infinity pool on the 9th floor. 3C Ton Duc Thang, D.1
New World Saigon In-house bars and eateries are some of the best in town. No need to go out! In renovation until 2019. 76 Le Lai, D.1
Pullman Saigon Centre Hotel catering to both business and leisure travellers, including a top-notch 24hr business centre and meeting rooms. 148 Tran Hung Dao, D.1
Rex Hotel Built by the French in the early 20th century and refurbished in 2013, the Rex Hotel is part of the cultural heritage of Saigon. 141 Nguyen Hue, D.1 citypassguide.com
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where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht hotels
HĂ´tel des Arts Saigon
Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers Equipped with 401 guest rooms and 84 suites in a prime location in the heart of the city. Great inhouse options for dining and drinks. 88 Dong Khoi, D.1
Sofitel Saigon Plaza Sophisticated design and decor in a prime location. Great city views from the rooftop. 17 Le Duan, D.1
The Reverie Saigon The tallest hotel, with the highest standards. Have a drink at in-house R & J Italian Lounge and listen to the live jazz vocals. 22-36 Nguyen Hue & 57-69F Dong Khoi, D.1 94
Villa Song This French-inspired hotel fuses beauty and tranquillity with views of the Saigon River. Resort-like feel off the city centre. 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, D.2
Alagon Saigon Hotel & Spa Lovely small hotel and spa in one of Saigon’s busiest areas. The afternoon tea is complimentary! 289-291 Ly Tu Trong, D.1
Bay Hotel Ho Chi Minh Opened in 2016, this 4-star hotel located in a quiet downtown street caters to business travellers. There is also a top floor bar that serves classic cocktails for reasonable prices during Happy Hour. 7 Ngo Van Nam, D.1
This MGallery Collection, 5-star boutique hotel showcases the charm of Indochine Française with a modern twist. Delight in Asian cuisine at Saigon Kitchen Restaurant, epicurean Western cuisine at Social Club restaurant, artsy mixology at the Rooftop Bar, and a daily Afternoon Tea at Café des Beaux-Arts.
Local Insight: Don’t miss the weekly Sunday Brunch Club, considered by many to be the best free-flow champagne brunch in town!
hotels
76 - 78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 028 3989 8888 hoteldesartssaigon.com h9231@accor.com
things to STAY where SEE
Hôtel des Arts Saigon
PARKROYAL Saigon
This sleek atrium-style hotel in Tan Binh District excels at providing guests with a no-fuss stay near the heart of the city, without the District 1 traffic. Besides its convenient location near the airport, travellers here will enjoy tastefully decorated and spacious guestrooms, delicious international cuisine, a beautiful private pool and an award-winning spa. 309B-311 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh D.
028 3842 1111
Local Insight: Being a GHA Platinum or Black Member entitles you to their local experience activities, such as taking a Vietnamese Cooking Class, enjoying the Water Puppet Show or visiting the War Remnants Museum. ibis Saigon Airport Skip the city noise and choose this 4-star hotel just five minutes from the airport. A complimentary shuttle will take you to your room where friendly staff, 24h dining service and a beautiful rooftop bar await. Whether you’re staying for a week or several hours, ibis Saigon Airport is willing to assist you. 2 Hong Ha, Tan Binh D. h9468-RE1@accor.com 028 3848 5556 ibis.com/9468
Local insight: Here on business? The hotel’s four meeting rooms and business center are available to keep you moving. The Reverie Saigon 95 citypassguide.com
where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht further suggestions
Hotel Continental A beautiful and historic 4-star hotel right next to the Saigon Opera House. Immortalised in the novel, “The Quiet American”. 132-134 Dong Khoi, D.1
Liberty Central Saigon City Point Modern downtown hotel known for its great inhouse cinema and a top breakfast buffet. 59-61 Pasteur, D.1
Norfolk Hotel 104 classy, yet functional hotel rooms in a central location with high service standards. Good choice for business travellers. 117 Le Thanh Ton, D.1
Silverland Sakyo Hotel & Spa Japanese-style boutique hotel in Saigon’s ‘Little Tokyo’ (p. 48). Spa treatments on the rooftop and vibrant nightlife all around! 10A Le Thanh Ton, D.1
Hotel L’Odéon Charming hotel in calm and spacious D.7. Amazing value for your money if you don’t mind a 30-minute drive to the city centre. 63-65 Le Van Thiem, D.7
Ma Maison Boutique Hotel Attractive French-style in a familial atmosphere. The hotel is surrounded by local life and eateries. Only 12 rooms. 656/52 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D.3
Paradise Saigon Boutique Hotel & Spa The decoration won’t blow you away but you’ll get comfort in a convenient location, making it easy to explore the city on foot. 288 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 96
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Activities Price Guide (per visit) $ - up to VND299,000
tours
Walking Tour
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$$ - VND300,000-499,000
$$$ - VND500,000 & above
Total distance: 4.7km Duration: 2.5-3 hours (without stops) Starting point: The Majestic Hotel Ending point: Bitexco Financial Tower
coffee at Au Parc at 23 Han Thuyen.
Head through the park to the historically significant Reunification Palace (p. 18) at the west end of Le Duan. Facing the palace, turn Begin your journey at the French- right on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; dodge colonial Majestic Hotel at the the coconut street vendors before beginning of one of the city’s main making a left on Nguyen Thi Minh shopping streets, Dong Khoi (p. Khai. After a five-minute walk, you’ll 18). Walk up the glitzy avenue to see Tao Dan Park (p. 25) on your left. take a peek at the various souvenir Venture through the park, then walk stores, fashion shops and Art down Truong Dinh until you reach Le Galleries (p. 26). The Opera Thanh Ton again. Turn left. After a House (p. 18), designed by Gustave short walk, you’ll reach the fruit and Eiffel, will appear on your right. The flower section of Ben Thanh Market Continental Hotel (p. 94) next door (p. 20). In the evening, look out for has been immortalised by Graham the night market on Phan Chu Trinh. Greene in The Quiet American. Turn Turn right onto Phan Boi Chau, then left onto Le Loi to reach the Nguyen cross diagonally left to Huynh Thuc Hue (p. 19) walking promenade. Khang on the roundabout; you’ll Now turn right and head to the City likely see plenty of construction Hall (p. 19), making sure to take here – this is where Saigon’s main a look at the Ho Chi Minh statue metro station is being built. Follow in front before heading on. Hang the road past the local market on a right on Le Thanh Ton when you Ton That Dam and turn right onto want to explore further. Ho Tung Mau. Walk a bit further, Continue north. After one block and you’ll see Bitexco Financial you’ll see the iconic Notre Dame Tower (p. 22) soaring skyward on Cathedral (p. 17) to the right of the your left. Get a refreshment at The 19th-century Central Post Office Nest Café on the second floor, then (p. 17). Turn back to the cathedral venture to the Observation Deck to and tour 30-4 Park (p. 25). If you take in the jaw-dropping views of feel like a break, sit down for a the city.
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things to DO SEE
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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht tours
City Tours Explore the metropolis like a local and hop on the back of a Vespa Adventures bike (169A De Tham, D.1). Wild horses can’t drag you onto a motorbike? Then get in a vintage car with Saigon 2CV Tour (15th floor, 2 Vu Tong Phan, D.2). Classic and comfy, cyclos are Vietnam’s traditional means of transport. But beware the scammers. Ask your hotel receptionist to arrange a Cyclo Tour for you. For those who like the active life, bicycle tours can’t be beat. Vietnam Bike Tours (126 Dinh Bo Linh, Binh Thanh D.) are the undisputed champs. Water Tours Saigon Boat Company (8A/11D1 Thai Van Lung, D.1) is the place to catch a sunset on a boat. Drinks and snacks included with a live band and a magician. Have dinner 100
on the Saigon River with Bonsai Cruise (Nha Rong Port, 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D.4). Cu Chi (p. 114) is a must for Saigon visitors. Avoid the crowded tourist buses and get there by boat with Les Rives. Cultural Tours Tour through galleries, cafés and contemporary art spaces with Sophie’s Art Tour (0933 752 402) Learn the art of calligraphy from a local master with Saigon Street Eats’ Calligraphy and Coffee Trail Tour (0908 449 408) Fun Tours Explore Chinatown while you solve a mysterious murder case. The Urban Tales Tour (362 Tran Phu, D.5) can be combined with a dim sum buffet! Book a customised Photo Tour (0913 236 876) and capture the soul of Saigon in pictures with Vietnamphotoadventures.com.
things to DO SEE
Diem Mot Thoi - Si Hoang Show
$$$
Experience Vietnamese culture through the story of the ao dai, accompanied by traditional Vietnamese music. The dazzling 90-minute show highlights the development of the ao dai over 300 years and features some beautiful ethnic costumes. After the event, you can order your own ao dai on the 3rd floor.
entertainment
2nd Floor, 77 Nguyen Hue, D.1 8:30pm-10:00pm 0901 394 779 / 028 6683 2740 (Mr. Vu) sihoangshow.vn
Local insight: Why not come early and visit the adjacent ao dai gallery for free while you wait? AO Show - Cultural Show
$$$
Shown in the Saigon Opera House (p. 18), AO Show is an acrobatic mix of bamboo circus acts, live music and gravity-defying stunts, all of which capture the essence of Vietnam, from its peaceful hamlets to its vibrant cities. Saigon Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D.1 012 4518 1188
Cai Luong - Folk Opera
$
A traditional form of folk music, cai luong is similar to Western operettas. Performers are adorned in ornate costumes while they sing and dance their way through comedic and dramatic storylines. Tran Huu Trang Theatre, 515-517 Tran Hung Dao, D.1 028 3837 5398
Water Puppets - Cultural Show
$
Originating in the flooded rice paddies of the Red River Delta, Water Puppet Theater depicts Vietnamese folklore and culture using a shallow pool as a stage. The artistic convention is an important part of history. 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1 028 3930 2196 6:30pm & 8:00pm 52 Le Lai, D1 +84 333 023 968 Sunday: 08:00pm
Local insight: The puppets are controlled by long bamboo rods in the water. citypassguide.com
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Hair Salons Pamper yourself at one of Saigon’s numerous hair salons. At most of these spas, VND130,000 will buy you a hair wash and a head massage. You’ll also find many street-side businesses willing to do quick, cheap cuts – look for a sign that says hot toc (hair cut). However, if you’re willing to pay a little more, the city’s luxury salons employ experienced hair gurus who make magic happen. Q Spa (31 Ly Tu Trong, D.1) and Concept Coiffure (48 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2) are both trusted venues. Local insight: Don’t say "yes" to every question or you will have to shell out for additional services. Nail Salons It seems like people in Vietnam paint their nails more than any other country in the world. Standards are high and prices are extremely affordable. Manicures and pedicures include cuticle cleaning, nail trimming, filing and polishing. Prices range from VND215,000 for a 30-minute manicure to VND320,000 for a 45-minute pedicure. Local insight: Near Ben Thanh Market you'll find a row of nail salons down a small alley (136 Le Thanh Ton, D.1). While your polish dries grab a French lunch at the end of the street at Cocotte or Vietnamese cuisine at Bep Me In. Massages & Spas Massage and spa culture is constantly evolving in HCMC, offering a large range of options with prices to suit all budgets. Particularly charming are the spas adorned by antique décor repurposed in old villas. Prices will vary depending on the quality of the venue and the treatment. Tell your masseuse how much pressure you want beforehand – some don't ask. Local insight: It’s customary to tip your masseuse after your session; we recommend 10% of the total bill.
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Sen Spa $$$ A beautiful Zen inspired interior tucked in the bustling Japan Town in Le Thanh Ton Street. Calm your senses with a fully relaxing space and a first-rate, specialised treatment: care for your mind, body and soul in an exquisite setting. For those looking to unwind in the heart of the city, this is the place to do it.
spas/beauty
10B1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 028 3910 2174 9:00am-11:00pm (last appointment: 10:00pm) senspa.com.vn rsv@senspa.com.vn
Local insight: Try their Total Pain Release Massage, ideal to sooth away the strains of daily life. Golden Lotus Five spas across town. The one in D.7 has a Korean-style jjim jil bang with several hot and cold saunas. 139 Ton Dat Tien, D.7
028 5410 7171
L’Apothiquaire Expert treatments and a zen atmosphere in a beautiful colonial villa setting. 64A Truong Dinh, D.3
028 3932 5181
Luxury Spa Rejuvenate and refresh both your body and mind. A stone’s throw away from the airport. Tan Son Nhat Hotel, 202 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan D. 028 3842 0268
Q Spa Housed in a beautiful French villa, this is one of the most luxurious spas in Ho Chi Minh City. 31 Ly Tu Truong, D.1
028 3507 3787
Sen Trang Spa Tucked away down a quiet tree-lined street near the French and American consulates. This spa is clean, calm and has excellent services. 7/2 Phung Khac Khoan Street, D.1 citypassguide.com
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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht for kids
For Kids Travelling with kids can be an exercise in patience. Luckily Saigon is full of places specially designed for the endless energy of little humans. Head to a park to let off steam and follow it up with some family-friendly food. Happy kids mean happy parents. Shows & Activities How do you make Generation Selfie happy? With one-of-a-kind photo ops! Take them at Artinus 3D Museum (p. 105).
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In Nature A foolproof way to please vivacious children: Dam Sen Water Park (p. 105) or head to the playground at Tao Dan Park (p.25). Eateries Snap Café (p. 56) is alfresco amusement at its best: great burgers and a large play area with a sandbox, swings and slides!
After a morning on Saigon’s feverish streets, there’s no better way to cool down than by ice skating (p.112).
Want to introduce your children to Vietnamese cuisine? Join Binh Quoi Buffet (p. 58) on weekends for the food as well as some nature and games.
Thirty minutes at the Jump Arena (p. 106) are enough to burn off all excess energy.
Sense Market (4 Pham Ngu Lao, Q.1) unites the classics of Western and Asian cuisines under one roof.
things to DO SEE for kids
Local insight: Parents who need a quick fix for over-excited kids should keep an eye out for nearby Malls (p.86). They almost all feature affordable, air-conditioned play areas and game zones. Artinus 3D Museum Interactive Museum
$
If you’re a fan of creative photo shoots, don’t miss out on the Artinus 3D Art Museum. Divided in different sections, this interactive museum invites you to become one with the fantastic 3D backdrops. 2-4 No. 9, Him Lam, D.7 artinusvn.com Mon-Fri 9:00am-6:00pm Sat-Sun 9:00am-8:00pm
Local insight: Families can combine
the trip with a visit to Vietopia next door (p. 106). Dam Sen Water Park - Water Park
$
Dam Sen includes several pool areas, 30 water games and the mildly terrifying Twister Bowl. Enjoy the carnival rides, animal shows, lake outings and quality people-watching. There’s an attraction for everyone. 3D Hoa Binh, D.11 damsenwaterpark.com.vn Mon-Sat 9:00am-6:00pm Sun & Holidays 8:30am-6:00pm
Local insight: For those who are more into relaxation than stimulation, try out the natural wave pool. Gentle waves and clear blue water mimic the feeling of a beach vacation. citypassguide.com
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IMAX Cinema - Film
$
Saigon’s only IMAX Cinema is located at the SC VivoCity mall (p. 86). Check the movie schedule beforehand at cgv.vn/en.
for kids
Level 5, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, D.7; No. 9 St., 2-4 Him Lam Building, d.7
Jump Arena - Trampoline Park
$
It’s all about trampolines here, in a venue that includes a climbing wall and a basketball rim to practice your slam dunks. Perfect for active kids. 63 Xa Lo Ha Noi, D.22
KizCiti - Educational
$
Catering to kids from 3 to 15 years old, KizCiti is a mini city where kids can pretend to be working adults and earning ‘kizo’, the KizCiti currency. The staff speaks decent English. In the Khanh Hoi area at the end of Hoang Dieu, D.4
Vietopia - Educational
$
For mini-professionals in training check out Vietopia. A huge indoor kid city with fun educational activities that mirror real world jobs. 2-4 No.9 street, Tan Hung, D.7
Sky Park - Playground
Free
This wet and dry playground on the rooftop of SC VivoCity (p. 86) gives kids plenty of opportunity to run, jump and climb. Rooftop, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, D.7 106
Bowling Feel like a round of bowling? Head to Diamond Plaza Bowling on the fourth floor of Diamond Plaza for a modern, noisy and fun alley experience. Climbing Push Climbing (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D.2) offers free climbing on their outdoor wall on Wednesdays (ladies) and Thursdays (gents) from 5pm to 10pm. And the best part: it’s inside one of Saigon’s hippest bars, Saigon Outcast (p. 70)! Cooking Classes Culinary prowess is the perfect souvenir. And now that Vietnamese cuisine has been taking over the world, you can take a class and show off your skills when you get home. Secrets and techniques passed down through generations are taught in most large cities and can include a trip to the market to get your fresh ingredients. Saigon Cooking Class located at Hoa Tuc Restaurant (74 Hai Ba Trung, D.1) is an institution. Reserve in advance. If you want to dig deeper, HCM Cooking Class (hochiminhcookingclass.com) takes you to the nearby countryside. You can combine it with a visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels (p. 114)! Local insight: Be sure to ask about Western alternatives to the ingredients that may only be found in Vietnam.
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Dancing The dancing scene in HCMC is vibrant – you can bust a move at numerous locations around the city! Try La Habana (152 Le Lai, D.1) on Wednesdays at 8:30pm for a free swing class, or check La Salsa's (212 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3) schedule for their group classes. If you want to start your own dance circle, there are plenty of live music venues (p. 73). Just pick your musical style. Local insight: Dance classes are great occasions to meet the local expat crowd. They’ll know where to have a drink after! Fitness Want to stay fit during your 108
holidays? The majority of 4 to 5-star hotels have an in-house fitness centre – check at reception. An equally cheap option is to join the Saigonese during their morning workouts in the park – before sunrise! If neither of the two options works for you, pick one of Saigon’s many budget to high-end gyms, the fancier ones equipped with cutting-edge equipment. Vincharm Health Club at Vincom Center B (72 Le Thanh Ton, D.1), for instance, is a modern gym spread over 2,000m 2. Local insight: To set up a home gym, find free weights and other fitness equipment on D.1’s sporting goods street behind the Reunification Palace - Huyen Tran Cong Chua.
things to DO SEE
Golfing
activities
Vietnam has excellent golfing options including international-level courses. If you want to fit in a round it’s as easy as calling up the golf course and booking directly. On weekends, slots fill quickly and courses run a strict tee-off schedule, so arrive with time to spare. Alternatively, you can book a spot using an agent. You’ll find that renting golf equipment for a day is affordable. Visit vietnamgolf.vn for more information. Saigon South Golf Club This nine-hole, par-three course in D.7 is a good option for those looking to play a quick round. Nguyen Van Linh, D.72.3
Long Thanh Golf Club Get away from the busy streets at this 36-hole course, about 30km north of Ho Chi Minh City. Xa Lo Ha Noi, Tan Mai II, Phuoc Tan Village, Bien Hoa
Vietnam Golf & Country Club Located 20km north of the city centre, this was the country’s first 36-hole course. Enjoy its natural layout and design. Long Thanh My Ward, D.9
Song Be Golf Resort Just 22km north of the city, this 27-hole course features lakes, tree-lined fairways and undulating greens. 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An D., Binh Duong
The Bluffs at the Grand Ho Tram Strip Besides being a pristine beach area, Ho Tram boasts what might be the best golf course in Vietnam. Private buses can bring you straight there in two hours. reservations@thegrandhotram.com Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc Ba Ria Vung Tau citypassguide.com
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Chats E Gaming Center
$$-$$$
The International Tourist Club (ITC) sits at the annex wing of New World Saigon Hotel and features the Chats E Gaming Center and the Catwalk next door. Chats is full of International gaming machines, accessible at any hour of the day. Try your luck at digital slots, baccarat, blackjack and roulette. For the high-rollers, the exclusive VIP rooms offers some truly highstakes thrills. Stop by Catwalk next door for live bands, a pumping dance floor, or sit back and sing the night away at any of their 14 private karaoke rooms. Be sure to check out the Chats Rewards Program, which offers exclusive members benefits and privileges. International Tourist Club, 76 Le Lai, D.1 24/7 028 3824 3760 itclubsaigon.com.vn
Local insight: Entry to Chats is restricted to holders of current foreign passports. 110
things to DO SEE activities
Club V e-gaming
$$-$$$
Club V provides up-to-date electronic games, such as Slots, Roulette, Baccarat and Blackjack machines, for you to feel the excitement of playing and betting. Club V is one of the first clubs to have the newest baccarat machines called "Card Generator". Go and visit in order experience all the thrills of membership of Club V Rewards. Treat yourself by redeeming points for buffet, spa and hotel accommodation. Accumulate points and reach higher card levels to deliver an even richer experience that's totally captivating! In short, Club V e-gaming brings you everything you need for a truly victorious experience. Pullman Saigon Center, B1 – 148 Tran Hung Dao, D1 24/7 +84 903 747 088 club-v.business.site
Local insight: Free $20 for new members (Foreign Passport Holders Only) citypassguide.com
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Gaming & Casinos Until recently, casinos in HCMC were few and far between. Now, gambling is alive and well, but generally only available to those with international passports. Along with independent venues, many top hotels have gaming rooms attached. Most of the cards are dealt by unregulated machines, but you can still take a spin to see if Lady Luck is on your side. Local insight: What many call the best casino in the country is at The Grand Ho Tram, a two-hour free shuttle bus ride away from Saigon. Ice Skating Ice skating in tropical Saigon? Yup – be an ice queen (or king) at Vincom Mega Mall (159 Xa Lo Ha Noi, D.2). Karaoke The Vietnamese take singing seriously, so if you’re a keen wailer check out some of the karaoke bars around town. Prices for a room average around VND100,000-150,000 per hour, depending on the size. Drinking a few beers during a singing session is near-obligatory; the staff will make sure you never run out of refills. Make sure your karaoke venue has English songs beforehand to avoid any disappointments. Even if there are English options, most choices will likely be from the 1990s and on. Expats often opt for King Karaoke (31-33 Hai Ba Trung, D.1) or iBox Karaoke (135 Hai Ba Trung, D.1). If you don’t mind spending a bit more, check out Catwalk (p. 69). Pool Many Vietnamese men love their pool games and billiards. The city is dotted with cheap local pool parlours, and many bars have a table. Try O'Briens (74 Hai Ba Trung, D.1)
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Day Trips Saigon is not only Vietnam’s most thriving metropolis but also the perfect starting point for day trips aplenty. If you’re into history or local culture, nature, beaches or golfing - the ideal excursion is just a short jaunt away.
day trips
Can Gio Mangrove Biosphere Reserve Little more than a one-hour drive from Saigon, this reserve is all about nature, animals and seafood. Perfect for bird-watchers, as well as fans of crocodiles. It’s best to book a tour. Try Les Rives (98 Nguyen Hue, D.1) for luxury and comfort. Local insight: Visitors should beware of the aggressive monkeys! Cu Chi Tunnels Explore the vast network of underground tunnels from the 1940’s that were expanded to 121km by guerrilla Viet Cong forces during the American War. The tunnels have now been widened to cater to larger frames, but are still a tight fit and not for the claustrophobic. It takes 90 minutes to get there by bus, or you can take the scenic route by fast boat. Ap Phu Hiep, Phu My Hung Ward, Cu Chi D. 7:00am - 5:00pm VND90,000.
Binh Quoi 1 + 2 Eight kilometres north of District 1, lush greenery and serenity can be found at Binh Quoi Village. Binh Quoi 1 features gardens, lakes and quality Vietnamese restaurants. Stop by for dinner at a riverside restaurant or rent a boat from Binh Quoi 2 to see the contrast between spacious villas and stilt houses. 1147 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh D. 9:00am - 11:00pm Free
Local insight: Explore the area – it has villages, rice paddies and a very rural feel to it. 114
things to VISIT where SEE
The Mekong Delta The Mekong Delta typifies the Vietnam of our dreams with its exotic landscapes and animated river life. My Tho and Ben Tre are the closest options, at about two hours from Saigon, and are equally beautiful. My Tho
mekong delta
My Tho is one of the most popular trade and tourism hubs in the Delta. It’s also a perfect springboard for day tours of the surrounding tributaries, rivulets and islands because of its close proximity to Saigon. What to Do: The capital of Tien Giang Province is a real charmer and remnants of French architectural influences are still present. The Vinh Trang and Cao Dai Temples display this region’s unique cultural past. My Tho’s economy is based around tourism, fishing and agricultural products. Don’t miss out on the Dong Tam Snake Farm, where you can learn about many rare species of snakes. For some luxurious relaxation stay at The Island Lodge (theislandlodge.com.vn). Can Tho Can Tho, located on the southernmost tributary of the Mekong, is the Delta’s largest provincial capital city and commercial hub. Along the busy pier, thousands of locals in conical hats bob and weave as exotic fruits and dong notes change hands. What to Do: Visit the buzzing central market on Hai Ba Trung, but go early to catch it at its peak. Afterwards, join the sampan boat traffic jams around the three floating markets of Cai Rang, Phong Dien and Phung Hiep. The best way to see the Mekong and Can Tho is by boat, so be sure to book one to join in on the festivities. Local insight: The Can Tho Bridge, an engineering wonder, is the longest cable-stayed bridge in Southeast Asia stretching nearly 2,750 metres. citypassguide.com
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where E E S to ot VISIT s g n i ht mekong delta
Bassac
$$$$
Welcome aboard the Bassac, three authentic wooden cabin cruisers that will take you to discover life on the river in the Mekong Delta. Spend the night on the river in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Built according to local tradition, without compromising safety or comfort, the Bassac is the ideal size to navigate remote areas and offer wide living spaces open to the surrounding scenery. Learn about the local culture of the Mekong Delta and taste specialties cooked afresh and served by a caring crew. Take in the ambiance of the Mekong as you go by. 142-144 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City 0292 382 9540 transmekong.com bassac@transmekong.com
Local insight: When in Can Tho, be sure to take a short cruise to a Khmer pagoda in the countryside. 116
things to VISIT where SEE southern coast Imperial Hotel Vung Tau
The Southern Coast Vung Tau Vung Tau has long been a popular tourist destination for local and international travellers alike. During the American War, the Vung Tau peninsula was populated by American soldiers on shore leave. The best way to reach Vung Tau is by ferry boat from Ben Nha Rong Port (check greenlines-dp.com). The excursion will take about 1.5 hours. What to Do: The two beaches, Bai Truoc and Bai Sau, offer a broad range of hotels, bars and restaurants. During the weekend the beaches are awash with
Saigonese taking a break from the city, so go during the week for a quieter experience. The top place to visit is the 32-metre statue of Jesus on Mount Nho. Another great vantage point is the Old Lighthouse. The seafood here is first-class and centred around fish, crab, shrimp and lobster. The best restaurants can be found on Vung Tau’s southwestern shore or in hotels such as La SIRENA in the Imperial Hotel or Lan Rung resort. Ganh Hao at 3 Tran Phu is a favourite among locals for affordable, yet high-quality seafood. Local insight: Need a great place to stay while you're in the city? Try Pullman Vung Tau, a 5-star hotel. citypassguide.com
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where E E S to ot VISIT s g n i ht southern coast
Long Hai Travel to Vung Tau by hydrofoil, then take a relaxing cab (or Grab) ride to Long Hai, 40km from Vung Tau. Situated on and around a small mountain range that overlooks the ocean, the area benefits from a microclimate that keeps it relatively rain free. Long Hai offers the slowpaced lifestyle of a small Vietnamese fishing village, except on weekends when the urban population flocks to the sand. Local insight: Local taxis are not available near the beach area. Book your return in advance or ask at a nearby hotel. An Hoa Residence Looking for a place that is both luxurious and private to relax? Come to An Hoa Residence in Long Hai to enjoy a private beach. All villas are spacious and include a private pool, sauna-jacuzzi and a fully-equipped kitchen. An Hoa Residence is a perfect destination for team building, seminars and family events. Road 44 , Long hai Townlet , Ba Ria-Vung Tau province 0903 905 805 - (0254) 3663310 anhoaresidence.com info@anhoaresidence.com
Local insight: The friendly staff will help you to enjoy your fresh seafood BBQ at the poolside
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Phan Thiet / Mui Ne The Phu Hai/Ham Tien/Mui Ne coastline is 20km east of Phan Thiet, and is a popular destination for tourists and Saigonese looking to escape manic city life.
phan thiet / mui ne
The hotels are great for family vacations and feature clean beach areas where visitors can enjoy a more private swim than at the neighbouring public beaches. What to Do: Phan Thiet has a lot to offer for adventure lovers. Although, there’s nowhere to snorkel or scuba dive, this area is extremely popular among the kitesurfing and windsurfing circle. It’s not uncommon to see dozens of kitesurfers and jet skiers zipping by on any given day. There are over 20 kitesurfing schools in the area with classes for all levels of experience. For an experience unique to this area, head about 10km beyond the main resort strip to Mui Ne’s famous sand dunes. Local children with friendly smiles selling “sandboards” are everywhere, or you can ride an ATV to the top to check out the stunning views of the coast! While you’re here, head North about 5km to Hon Rom. The deserted beach is almost an island, since it is only connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand. It’s definitely worth a visit. Those looking for a more relaxed experience can take advantage of the various on-site spa services available at most resorts. The area is also known for restaurants serving unique delicacies, so foodies with an open mind can try something new here. Case in point: Muc Mot Nang (halfdried squid). Local insight: Phan Thiet is Vietnam’s grape and dragon fruit capital. You won’t find more flavourful – and cheap! – fruit than here.
Pandanus Resort citypassguide.com
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where E E S to ot VISIT s g n i ht phu quoc
Phu Quoc Over the past 10 years, Phu Quoc has become a popular destination thanks to its pristine whitesand beaches and tropical landscapes. Located in the Gulf of Thailand and only 12km south of the Cambodian coast, this tropical paradise is a quick 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City and boasts an international airport. Since the rainy season is from June to November, the best time to explore Phu Quoc is December to May. With the Phu Quoc National Park spanning more than 50 percent of its area, much of the island is still protected against construction to help conserve its natural beauty. However, this is likely to change soon due to the commencement of the ‘Phu Quoc Development Plan’, which will have an enormous environmental impact over the next 15 years. Now is the time to see this paradise. What to Do: Phu Quoc is perfect for a quick weekend getaway, where visitors can experience a variety of watersports including snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, jet skiing and windsurfing. For a more low-key visit, indulge in spa services provided by the hotels in the area, or take a peek at Dinh Cau Rock (Cua Temple) or the Cao Dai temples. Well-known for its famous fish sauce (nuoc mam) and organic black peppercorns, Phu Quoc also boasts delicious seafood. Browse the Duong Dong night market and try out local eats. A unique must-see is the Phu Quoc Prison. One of the most visible historical landmarks left from the Vietnam War, it was South Vietnam’s largest prisoner camp in 1973 and is a moving experience for all visitors. Local insight: For those looking to get their scuba certification in Vietnam, this is the place. Phu Quoc’s unusual warm water boosts coral growth, making for a worthwhile underwater visual experience.
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things to VISIT where SEE phu quoc
Best Western Phu Quoc Sonasea Resort Best Western Premier Sonasea Phu Quoc is one of the newest luxury beach resorts on the island. With plentiful facilities, the resort is ideal for families, couples, groups or business people. Enjoy the magnificent 300-metre lagoon pool, beautiful beach with fun activities, gym, spa, bicycles, and separate pools and kids’ club for the young ones. Fantastic international & Vietnamese food venues, swim-up pool bar, and stunning ocean sunset views with cocktails from the rooftop CView Sky Bar complete a wonderful Phu Quoc vacation experience. Dươuong To, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Vietnam +84 (297) 627-9999 +84 (297) 626-4339 reservation@bwpremier-sonaseaphuquoc.com bwpremier-sonaseaphuquoc.com
Local insight: For families, two children (under 16) can stay FREE (including buffet breakfast) in the parents’ room, using the existing bedding. citypassguide.com
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Nha Trang
nha trang
Nha Trang is a beautiful beachside city along the south-central coastline of Vietnam with a mountainous backdrop. As well as its lovely white sand beaches, the city is also well known for its wide variety of accommodation, fresh seafood, plentiful watersports (especially scuba diving), day trips out of the city, and a bustling nightlife. For these reasons and more, Nha Trang has become increasingly popular not just with locals, but also with foreign tourists. In particular, there are many Russian visitors. Nha Trang boasts an international airport (called Cam Ranh Airport) serving flights to Korea, Russia, China, Malaysia and, of course, Hanoi, Saigon, and most domestic destinations in Vietnam. The airport is set 30km outside of the city, so if you haven’t arranged a transfer with your hotel, expect to take a bus (approx VND50,000) or a metered taxi (approx VND300,000-350,000) into central Nha Trang. In terms of accommodation, you can choose from the cheapest hostels to luxury 5-star options - there’s something for everyone. What to Do: Once in Nha Trang, there’s plenty to keep busy with in the daytime. Go souvenir shopping at Nha Trang Market, visit the historic Po Nagar Cham Towers and Long Son Pagoda, or take the family to Vinpearl Amusement Park. Outside of the city, visit waterfalls, hot springs and fishing villages, or enjoy island excursions by boat. At nighttime, discover Nha Trang’s wide variety of eating options, from fresh local seafood specialties to all manner of international restaurants. After dinner, check out the nightlife mainly around the tourist area - bars and clubs can be found for backpacker budgets or higher end travellers.
Novotel Phu Quoc Resort 122
Local Insight: To enjoy Nha Trang’s most authentic cuisine, avoid the tourist centre - instead, head to the north side of Tran Phu Bridge to find a range of delicious seafood options.
things to VISIT where SEE nha trang
Novotel Nha Trang This distinctive, contemporary hotel is consistently rated as one of the top accommodation options in the beachside city of Nha Trang. With seven classes of rooms and suites, most featuring gorgeous ocean views, guests will enjoy classy furnishings and modern amenities in all cases. As well as high quality international cuisine at the Square Restaurant, take advantage of plentiful facilities for relaxing including a secluded outdoor pool, spa and beauty salon, fitness centre, and full service lounge and bar. Expect great customer service at all times. 50 Tran Phu St., Nha Trang city, Khanh Hoa, Vietnam +84 (258) 6256 900 H6033-RE@accor.com novotelnhatrang.com
Local insight: The hotel’s stellar location is opposite the main beach and walking distance from popular bars, restaurants and nightlife. citypassguide.com
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things to VISIT where SEE con dao
Con Dao Con Dao may be the most pristine spot in Vietnam. This archipelago of islands situated off the country’s southeastern coast has not yet been overrun by tourists. Flights are less frequent and more expensive than to other destinations, but the extra money is worth it! Con Dao is located at a point where cool and warm ocean currents converge and create a localised climate. This weather pattern allows swimming, snorkelling and diving all year round and Con Dao has arguably the best underwater seascapes to explore in Vietnam.
Beside the beauty of the area, there is plenty to see if you’re a history buff. The French used Con Son, the main island to isolate anticolonial prisoners and the South Vietnamese continued the practice, sending political dissenters to the 11 prisons during the American War. What to Do: The main island is home to a coastline of steep, rocky hills and long sweeping coves, boasting some excellent spots for swimming and snorkelling. Con Son is largely mountainous and offers ample opportunities for jungle hiking. If you’re looking for adventure, you’ve come to the right place. citypassguide.com
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where E E S to ot VISIT s g n i ht da lat
Da Lat Around 300km from Saigon, in the middle of the Central Highlands and reachable by plane, Da Lat is a hilly haven to escape from the heat of Saigon. The weather in Da Lat is more pleasant than the rest of tropical Vietnam, warm by day and cool at night. The high altitude allows for the growth of pine trees, flowers, fruits and vegetables not found in other parts of the country. The French discovered Da Lat in the early 20th century and turned it into “Le Petit Paris” with the addition of colonial architecture, most notably the St. Nicholas Church (locally known as the Rooster Church), the Domaine de Marie, Da Lat Train Station, and the Pedagogical College of Da Lat, formerly the Lycée Yersin. The small town is surrounded by pine forests, lakes, waterfalls, farms 126
and plantations, making it one of the most romantic destinations in Vietnam and an obvious favourite for artists and newlyweds. It is also an ideal destination for hiking, running, and mountain biking. What to Do: Visiting Da Lat’s beautiful lakes and waterfalls is the most popular activity for tourists. Xuan Huong Lake and the Valley of Love in the city center, and Tuyen Lam Lake, about 5km to the south with an adjacent lavender farm, are serene stops where you can relax and enjoy the scenery. Those interested in history and culture can visit the three palaces of Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam, or take the historical steam train from Da Lat Train Station to Trai Mat, where you can visit Linh Phuoc Pagoda, which has a statue in the form of a dragon made from 12,000 beer cans.
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need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht vietnam fact sheet
Economy GDP: $198 billion (2016) GDP comparison to the world: 47th GDP growth rate: 6.2% (2016) GDP per capita: $2,215 (July 2016 est.) GDP per capita comparison to the world: 134th GDP composition by sector: services 40.9%, industry 32.7%, agriculture 16.3% Labour force: 55.9 million (2016) Unemployment rate: 2.3% (2016) Minimum wage in urban Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City: VND3.32 million / month (2016) Inflation rate (consumer prices): 2.7% (2016 est.) Imports: $162.6 billion (2016 est.) Main imports: machinery and equipment, petroleum products, steel products, raw materials for clothing and shoe industries, electronics, plastics, automobiles 140
Exports: $176.6 billion (2016 est.) Main exports: clothes, shoes, electronics, seafood, crude oil, rice, coffee, wooden products, machinery
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Imports – partners: China 25.1%, South Korea 17.5%, Japan 7.9%, US 6% (2016)
Exports – partners: US 20.2%, China 14.2%, Japan 8.2%, South Korea vietnam fact sheet
6.2% (2016) Industrial production growth rate: 7.6% (2016 est.) National debt: $116 billion (2016 est.) Member of WTO: Since 2007 Government Capital: Hanoi Independence: 2 September 1945 Constitution: 28 November 2013 Ruling Party: Communist Party of Vietnam Governance: Political Bureau (14 members) Central Committee of the Party (125 members) National Assembly (500 members) Prime Minister: Nguyen Xuan Phuc (since 2016) Elections/appointments: president indirectly elected by National Assembly for a single 5-year term; president appoints prime minister and cabinet Highest court: Supreme People’s Court (chief justice + 13 judges) Miscellaneous National symbols: yellow, five-pointed star on red field; lotus blossom National colours: red, yellow Internet country code: .vn Internet users: 49.7 million (2015) Mobile/cellular telephones: 122 million (2016) citypassguide.com
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need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht price guide 142
If you’re wondering how much money to withdraw at the ATM to see you through, check below for some of the average costs that you will find in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1. Hanoi prices are just a bit more expensive. VND
USD
Vietnamese street coffee
Exchange rate: $1 = VND22,700
15,000
0.53
Western-style cappuccino
50,000
2.20
Small bottle of water (street)
10,000
0.44
Soft drink can (street)
15,000
0.66
Soft drink (restaurant)
30,000
1.32
Coconut water (street)
20,000
0.66
Fruit shake (street)
20,000
0.88
Beer 33 cl. bottle (local restaurant)
20,000
0.88
Cigarettes
22,000
0.97
Pho (noodle soup)
40,000
1.76
Meal (mid-range restaurant)
190,000
8.37
Milk (1 litre)
35,000
1.54
Taxi (per km)
17,000
0.75
City centre bus fare (short hop)
5,000
0,22
Motorbike taxi (short hop)
20,000
0.88
Cyclo (per hour)
60,000
2.64
Petrol (per litre)
18,000
0.79
Postcard
5,000
0,22
International postcard stamp
15,000
0.66
English-language newspaper
6,000
0.26
T-shirt (market)
100,000
4.41
Shoe shine (per pair)
20,000
0.88
Shampoo
25,000
1.10
Laundry (per kg)
25,000
1.10
Thin rain poncho
10,000
0.44
Thick rain poncho
50,000
2.20
climate
North Vietnam The North is generally cooler than the rest of the country. The winter months of November to January can be unexpectedly cold, especially in the mountainous areas along the Chinese border. Even in Hanoi, you will need a jumper to keep warm. The hottest period of the year is May to October, when temperatures can rise to 37 degrees Celsius. During these months, the North will have the occasional typhoon.
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Climate Vietnam lies in the East Asian monsoon zone and is affected by the southwestern (May-September) and northeastern (October-April) monsoons. Because of the country’s 1,600km length, each region has varying weather patterns that should be factored in when planning your trip. There are three distinct regions where the climates differ: North, Central and South Vietnam.
Local insight: The air conditioner that kept you cool in the south will keep you warm in the north. Central Vietnam Central Vietnam can be split into two sub-regions. The Coastal Lowlands are generally drier and hotter than the Central Highlands. However, unprotected parts of the coast have more typhoons and storms than the North from November to March. Nha Trang experiences a longer dry season, which runs from January to September with high temperatures and little rain. With cooler temperatures, the Central Highlands experience more than double the average rainfall of the country, so prepare to get a bit wet. Local insight: One positive aspect of the monsoon season is the "surfable" waves around the region. Head to Danang from September to March to catch the peak surf season. South Vietnam The South experiences little variation in temperature during the year, fluctuating from 27-37 degrees Celsius, and has rainy and dry seasons. Rainy season lasts for seven months from May to November while dry season dominates the rest of the year. To beat the heat, take a trip to Dalat where temperatures are always a bit cooler than in Saigon. Local insight: Remember to bring a raincoat to Dalat. The province experiences nearly double the average rainfall of the rest of Vietnam. citypassguide.com
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need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht things to keep in mind
Things to Keep in Mind Hotel stays When checking into a hotel, you will have to surrender your passport so that the hotel can register your presence with the local police. Once registered, ensure that your passport is returned to you and keep it in a safe place. Passports should not be used as a deposit for renting hotel rooms, or in place of a fine in the event of any possible traffic offence. Always carry photocopies of the data and visa pages from your passport Get your hotel details Remember to take your hotel’s business card to make your return to the hotel easier by handing it to your taxi, motorbike or Grab driver. Food safety Vietnamese food is delicious and you will want to try it all. Go ahead, but be aware that the sanitary conditions at the street food level won’t be as high as at Singapore’s famous hawker stalls. If you plan to eat street food, keep some Imodium in case you run into digestive or intestinal problems. Stick to well-frequented venues, and always peel fruit. Water Contaminated water is a major cause of sickness, so don't drink from the tap – stick to bottled water. The Vietnamese use mountains of ice and there’s a huge commercial ice-making industry; if the ice is cylindrical in shape, it is probably made from safe, filtered water. General Health Malaria is not endemic in the cities but dengue fever is still a possibility, so be aware and make sure to use mosquito repellent, especially in more remote areas. The UV rating in Vietnam sometimes goes up to 12, in other words: very, very high. Always bring sun cream (SPF 30-50) and take regular breaks in the shade. If there is none, use an umbrella as a parasol. You’ll see many locals wearing face masks in traffic. Though air quality is a serious issue in Vietnam, this won’t help unless you have a pollutionfiltering mask. Wear one of those or none. In terms of vaccinations, the Centre for Disease Control recommends Hepatitis A & B, Japanese Encephalitis, Rabies and Typhoid vaccinations.
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Motorbike safety Always wear a helmet (which is required by law anyway), avoid dangly jewellery and miniskirts, and clip your bag or store it underneath the seat of the bike to keep it safe from snatchers. Also see page XVIII. Traffic With about 7.9 million registered vehicles in Ho Chi Minh City, streets are more congested than ever, especially during rush hours, 6:30-9am and 4-7pm. If you have a flight to catch, always allow an extra hour of travel time to be on the safe side. Walk slowly when crossing the street Crossing the street in Vietnam is scary but can be fun nonetheless. Remember that motorbikes are trying to anticipate your movements to avoid hitting you. Keep a slow but steady pace and only stop for cars and buses. Pandanus Resort
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need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht things to keep in mind
Security Violent crime is rare, but like any large city, Saigon has fair share of pickpockets. Petty crime mostly occurs in the main tourist areas. Be especially aware in Saigon’s touristy and backpacker Pham Ngu Lao area. Do not walk in secluded locations alone, or with people you do not know. Keep your phone and wallet out of sight, avoid carrying handbags or wearing expensive-looking jewellery or watches. Use hotel safety deposit boxes to store valuables, money and passports, and carry a photocopy of the data and visa pages of your passport. There are scams targeting tourists that involve fake charities, gambling and taxis. Drugs In Vietnamese law, anyone found in possession of even a small amount of drugs can face the death sentence. So remember to just say no. Take your plastic with you Many shops in the big cities are now accepting more credit cards and ATMs can be found easily. In the countryside, however, most venues are still on a cash-based billing system. Better always to carry some cash with you. Take a break in the afternoon It can get quite hot visiting the attractions; take breaks in the middle of the day to keep refreshed for the afternoon’s activities. Try and do most of your sightseeing early in the morning or late in the afternoon, and keep in mind that the sun sets quickly. Cover up When visiting temples or pagodas, make sure to pack a shawl or extra shirt and wear knee-length clothing to respect the local culture. This may also save you from catching a cold in the mostly freezing, air-conditioned malls. Shoes Vietnamese take off their shoes when entering a house, and of course pagodas. It’s common courtesy to do likewise. Don’t lose your temper This is considered a serious loss of face for both parties and should be avoided. Try to maintain a cool demeanour and it will be reciprocated with kindness. Smiling always works wonders.
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Be a sensitive snapper Most people in Vietnam love having their photo taken and will ask to have one with you, but it’s polite to ask first. Bear in mind that there are some places like Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum where taking photos is prohibited. Bargain Remember that negotiating is not rude but expected in any market or street-side setting. Haggle for the best price or risk paying over the odds. Try "walking away" to get a better price, or try a few vendors to get a feel of what's realistic. Remember to keep smiling and, most importantly, always negotiate before receiving any kind of service. Business Business hours in Vietnam are 8:00am to 6:00pm, Monday to Friday. Some businesses open from 8:00am to noon on Saturdays. Banks usually open from 8:00am to 4:00pm and close on weekends. Retail shops generally open from 9:00am to 9:00pm, seven days a week. Media Check tuoitrenews.vn or vnexpress.net to read the latest news from Vietnam in English. For business news, get the monthly Vietnam Economic Times magazine and weekly Vietnam Investment Review newspaper. citypassguide.com
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Language The Vietnamese language is a tonal language. There are six distinct tones and each word can have a different meaning depending on the tone. This can be quite frustrating at times, especially when people don’t understand your attempt to speak even basic Vietnamese. On the plus side, the modern written language is entirely based on roman script, so readable for most travellers. When addressing Vietnamese, use anh (male) or chi (female) if the person you are addressing is older than you, and em if they are younger. Vietnamese will appreciate any attempt to speak their language. Learn the numbers for a chance to barter for cheaper prices. Here are a few others words and phrases that will help you during your travels. (Pronunciation guide in brackets) Hello: xin chao (sin chao) Goodbye: tam biet Thank you: cam on (cam urn) Sorry: xin loi (sin loi) Right: phai (fai)
Left: trai (chai)
Straight ahead: thang (tang) Stop: dung lai (yoong lie) Travelling with children Vietnamese love children, so don’t be alarmed at all the attention your child receives. Also, for those travelling with babies, supplies are available, but stock up if you plan to travel outside major city centres. Child safety seats are not readily available for any type of transportation and it’s best to bring your own. Be aware that there are few diaper-changing stations in restaurant bathrooms. Electricity The standard electrical supply in Vietnam runs at 220V, 50Hz. If you have appliances that run at lower voltages, make sure you have a converter. The most common sockets are two round pins without a ground pin, which will often take two-flat-blade plugs as well. Hotels with international clientele may also have combined sockets that take a wide variety of plugs. You can find adapters at convenience stores. Volunteering If you are looking to give back to the community, there are a number of non-governmental organisations based in Vietnam. For more information, check the NGO resource centre in Hanoi (ngocentre.org). 148
Most foreigners wishing to visit Vietnam need to apply for an entry visa in advance. Most citizens of ASEAN member-countries, such as Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Cambodia, and Laos do not need a visa if they visit Vietnam for 30 days or less. Check on your government’s website. There’s a special 30-day visa exemption for Phu Quoc. Visit phuquocislandguide.com/phu-quoc-visa/ to know more.
Fees Tourist visas are valid for 30 or 90 days and can be single or multiple entry. The stamping fee varies from $25 for a one-month, single entry visa, to $50 for a three-month, multiple entry visa. For an additional “expedite service” fee, you can bypass the processing time of three to four working days.
visas and public holidays
If you are flying into the country, visas on arrival are available through various travel agencies and online visa services who, for a fee, will fill out the paperwork for you. If you are entering through a land border, you will have to formally apply for a visa in your home country or one of the countries bordering Vietnam.
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Vietnam Visas
Extensions Visa extensions are available for a fee of $10 if you go directly to the immigration office. However, this takes some local language skills and quite a bit of patience. Due to this, most travellers rely on travel agents to deal with their extensions. This can take up to 10 days to process. You can only extend the same amount as your original visa. The visa extension should be applied at least five days before it expires. Ho Chi Minh City Immigration Office 254 Nguyen Trai, D.1 028 3920 0365
8:00am-11:30am & 1:30pm-4:30pm
Holidays Though Vietnam traditionally has many holidays, religious or otherwise, these are the only ones publicly recognised by the government: 1 January – Western New Year’s Day First to seventh days of the first moon (between January and February) – Tet Nguyen Dan April – Hung King Festival 30 April – Liberation Day / Reunification Day 1 May – International Workers' Day 2 September – National Day citypassguide.com
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need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht money 150
Currency Exchange If you want to be sure to get the official rate, head to a bank. Most hotels will offer the same rate but may charge an extra fee. Generally, larger bills give a better rate than smaller notes. Make sure your foreign bank notes are clean and crisp with no tears or writing. They might not be accepted otherwise. Currency The official currency of Vietnam is the Dong and it fluctuates around VND22,500 to the US Dollar. The notes printed after 2003 are made out of plastic polymer. Local insight: The VND20,000 and VND500,000 notes are very similar in colour. Remember that the VND500,000 note is just a bit larger. ATMs Most major foreign-issued credit and debit cards are accepted at ATMs in HCMC. Travellers can access Plus and Cirrus networks via HSBC, Vietcombank and many other ATM machines. The standard withdrawal limit may be very low, but you should be able to withdraw several times. Use common sense. Key in your PIN inconspicuously and keep to welllit, busy cash terminals. ATMs are commonly found inside major banks, Western-style grocery stores and hotels, or on busy streets. Debit & Credit Cards More and more businesses in Vietnam are now accepting credit cards, however it is advisable to carry cash, especially at places where the payment policy is unknown or vague. It is always good practice to make enquiries before assuming that your credit card will be accepted. Most luxury hotels will accept credit cards. Some establishments add a 3% charge for credit card use and charge a higher user fee for holders of an American Express card. Local insight: To get around any unnecessary embarrassment, be sure to contact your bank and let them know you are travelling, or your card may be blocked for “suspicious activity�. VAT International travellers are entitled to obtain a refund that accounts for 85% of the 10% Value Added Tax (VAT) on eligible goods that were purchased from a registered VAT refund shop, thanks to a pilot scheme that was introduced in 2012. While the procedure may not be worth it for small purchases, if you are planning to buy expensive items, it is a substantial saving. Local insight: Check this link to know more about the process: immivietnamvisa.com/how-to-get-vat- refund-in-vietnam.
Vietnam’s network is GSM-compatible and will work with most carriers. You can buy a local SIM card and minutes from around VND100,000. The most popular providers are Mobifone, Viettel and Vinaphone. Viettel has the best coverage throughout the country and is a better choice if you are heading to more remote areas. 3G service is usually available in metropolitan centres and pre-paid data packages are cheap. Plus, 4G is also available. Mobifone 80 Nguyen Du, D.1
internet and phones
Phones Vietnamese are phone-crazy, so it’s not surprising that there seems to be a mobile phone shop on every street selling off-brand phone equipment for the latest smartphones on the cheap.
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Internet Vietnam is is currently the most dynamic internet market in Southeast Asia, with over 50% household saturation of ADSL in urban cities and rising. Cafés have morphed into internet connection hubs and most will give you a login password for the price of a drink. Access to social networks such as Facebook, Twitter, etc. is generally possible.
028 3822 8171
Viettel 166C-D-E Tran Hung Dao, D.1
028 6655 1205
If your phone is broken, there are several places in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City for phone repair: Mai Nguyen (Ho Chi Minh City) 27 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D.1 028 3910 1227
The international country code for Vietnam is +84. Note that Vietnam has recently undertaken an extensive area code change. Listed below are the new prefixes for the country's major destination cities. Dalat: 0263 Danang: 0236 Hanoi: 024 Ho Chi Minh City: 028 Hoi An: 0235 Hue: 0234 Mui Ne: 0252 Nha Trang: 0258 citypassguide.com
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Mail The postal system in Vietnam is fairly reliable, although not overly quick. If you need your package delivered in a hurry, there are several shipping companies to choose from. Don’t seal parcels before taking them to the post office, as you will be required to show the contents to customs before having the package weighed and priced. DHL and FedEx are also available. If you are planning to receive a package, make sure the shipping company will track the package for the whole journey. Postcards cost around VND15,000 to send overseas. Saigon Central Post Office 2 Cong Xa Paris, D1. 7:00am-7:00pm 028 3829 6862
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DHL International HCMC 6 Thang Long, Tan Binh D.
Mon-Fri, 8:00am-6:30pm 028 3844 6203
FedEx HCMC 6 Thang Long, Tan Binh D.
Mon-Fri 7:30am-6:00pm 028 3948 0370
Be aware that healthcare in rural areas is extremely basic and it’s best to head to an urban centre even for minor injuries. More complicated treatment may even require evacuation to another nearby country. Make sure you have adequate travel health insurance and accessible funds to cover the cost of any medical treatment abroad as well as repatriation: you may have to pay first and claim later (check the fine print).
health
If you are bringing prescription medication into Vietnam, we advise you carry it in your hand luggage and carry a copy of your prescription. Regarding vaccination concerns, please refer to page VI.
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Health Concerns
Hospitals & Clinics The quality of care at international hospitals in Ho Chi Minh City is quite good. Besides treatment and care of minor ailments, the city's internationalstandard clinics offer a wide range of services and treatments. Book an appointment beforehand to avoid long waiting times. Bring your passport and medical insurance card if you have one. Bear in mind that if your insurance provider does not have an agreement with the medical centre, you will need to pay the doctor or hospital/clinic for treatment received before you leave. Be certain to keep your receipts so that you can claim reimbursement from your medical insurance provider. Important numbers Emergency cases: Police 113 Fire 114 Ambulance 115 For other supports, call: 024 1080 (Hanoi) 028 1080 (Ho Chi Minh City). The call centre (they can speak English) will give contacts of your location’s nearest station. Victoria Healthcare International Clinics 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan D. 152 Nguyen Luong Bang, D.7 20-20Bis-22 Dinh Tien Hoang, D.1 028 3910 4545 (24/7 Emergency Hotline) CMI 30 Pham Ngoc Thach, D.3, HCMC 028 3827 2366 Mon-Fri 8:30am-7:00 pm / Sun 9:00am-1:00pm FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D.7 8:00am-6:00pm
028 5411 3333 citypassguide.com
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Pharmacies Although the selection of popular pharmaceutical drugs available in urban pharmacies are good, you would be wise to bring a supply of medicines and contraceptives from your home country to be on the safe side. If you do need a pharmacy, write down the exact medicine you require for the pharmacist. Always check the expiry date. Note that the previously listed medical clinics have their own pharmacies but may require a doctor’s appointment to receive a prescription. Pasteur Parmacy 165 Pasteur. 7:30am-8:00pm Eco Pharmacy 397 Hai Ba Trung, D.3
028 3822 3737
6:00am to midnight
028 3820 7476
Family Medical Practice Vietnam 34 Le Duan Street, D.1 Mon - Fri 8:30am–7:00pm / Sat 8:30am–4:30pm 028 3822 7848
Dental Clinics Vietnam is near the top of the list when it comes to affordable dental care. Thanks to a good quality of care and unbeatable prices, dental tourism is booming. Foreign-owned and operated clinics, especially in Ho Chi Minh City, provide the latest services and techniques. A full range of treatments is available including preventative care, cosmetic dentistry, teeth whitening, implants, veneers, crowns, bridges and extractions. For major work, you may want to stick with the international clinics. A check-up and clean will set you back about VND500,000800,000. Elite Dental 51A Tu Xuong, Ward 7, D3 / 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D.3 09 0255 9888 / 028 7306 3838 Mon-Sat 8:30am-7:30pm / Sun 8:00am-12:00pm Starlight Dental 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D.3 028 3822 6222 Mon-Fri 8:00am-8:00pm / Sat 8:00am-5:00pm Smile Dental Clinic 173 Ton Dat Tien, D.7 028 5413 6634 Mon-Fri 8:00am-7:00pm / Sat 8:00am-5:00pm 154
Domestic flights are relatively cheap and are a faster alternative to buses or trains. The national carrier is Vietnam Airlines. Jetstar Pacific Airlines and VietJet Air offer budget pricing and also operate locally. But watch out: the cheaper airlines are notorious for delays. Local insight: Vietnamairfare.com is an excellent resource for domestic flights. The two main ports of entry are Hanoi’s Noi Bai (HAN) and Ho Chi Minh City’s Tan Son Nhat (SGN), with Danang (DAD) in a distant third. Due to congestion, the number of direct flights into and out of Vietnam from these airports is limited and most will involve a transit stop along the way. Luckily for international travellers, two new international airports have opened in Cam Ranh and Phu Quoc.
travel
International Flights
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Domestic Flights
Check your flight status online at hanoiairportonline.com/flight-status or hochiminhcityairport.com/flight-status-arrivalsdepartures. Local insight: Make sure you keep both white and yellow duplicate customs forms, as you will need them for your departure. Trains Going by the north-to-south railway line known as the Reunification Express is much less jarring than road travel. The train system is slowly being modernised. Sleeper cars are available for long trips, and a private company called “Golden Train” does a comfy sleeper run from Ho Chi Minh City to Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Check the schedule at baolau.com. Train tickets can be purchased through travel agents or directly at the train station. Ticket classes include hard seat and soft seat, and hard-berth and soft-berth compartments for overnight trips. A drink and light snack are usually included in the ticket price. Many train routes also have dining cars with fair rates. For a detailed schedule of departure and arrival times as well as fees and availability, check seat61.com/vietnam.htm. Ho Chi Minh City Train Station 1 Nguyen Thong, D3 028 3843 6528
Local insight: Bring socks and a thick jumper in a sleeper car. The airconditioning often runs full blast. citypassguide.com
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Taxis Taxis are numerous and cheap compared to some neighbouring countries. The drivers speak very little English (if at all), so it pays to write down your destination. All reputable taxi companies will start the meter as soon as you start the journey. To avoid scammers, stick to larger taxi companies such as Hanoi Taxi, Mai Linh or Vinasun. Mai Linh Hotline 028 3838 3838 Vinasun Hotline 028 3827 2727
Ride-Hailing Apps The Grab and Go Viet apps offer cheaper fares and more polite drivers than regular taxis and motorbike taxis. No haggling here, the price is calculated by the app. Round up to the nearest five to score a smile. If you get a call, just state the pick-up location. When your ride arrives, always check the licence number or you might get scammed. Motorbike Taxis The traditional type of ride-hailing services in Vietnam are xe om, motorbike taxi drivers waiting on street corners to pick up clients. They are, however, getting outgrown by Go Viet and Grab. If you want to hire one, show them your destination on a map or write it down. Most importantly, make sure you agree on a price beforehand. Haggling is compulsory. City Bus Service Buses, too, are an option to get around the city, though many are old and packed during rush hour. Short trips, however, come at a bargain price: VND5,000! Check the bus routes at busmap.vn/?locale=en. If you want to get on, be sure to wave when your bus arrives, or they might just drive by. Tickets are sold on the bus. City-to-City Bus Service Long-distance bus services connect most cities in Vietnam, and tickets can be purchased at the main bus stations. However, Vietnam is a very large country with a coastline that runs for 3,444km. It is advisable to break your bus journey into destinations within six hours’ drive. When taking sleeper buses, bring an eye mask and ear plugs, just in case. 156
Distance
Duration
96km
2 hours
Phan Thiet
198km
4 hours
Mui Ne
223km
4.5 hours
Dalat
310km
7 hours
Nha Trang
451km
10 hours
Hoi An
1,012km
15 hours
Hue
1,106km
19.5 hours
Hanoi
1,609km
33 hours
Phnom Penh
290km
6 hours
Siem Reap
554km
12 hours
travel
HCMC
To Vung Tau
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From
Motorbikes Officially, foreigners need a Vietnamese driver’s licence to hit the road. So, check with your travel insurance to make sure that you are covered in case of an accident. To rent a motorbike, you will need to provide a passport, sign a rental agreement or pay in advance. Longer rental periods may require you to leave a cash deposit equal to the motorbike’s market value. Make certain that your rental motorbike has functioning brakes, lights etc. Park it at attended parking lots to diminish the chance of theft. You’ll usually get a parking ticket: if you lose it, you will need to verify ownership of the bike, which means contacting your rental place. Helmets are mandatory for drivers and passengers. Local insight: Manuals rent for VND100,000 per day. Automatics cost around VND140,000 per day. Three Rules of Riding a Motorbike in Vietnam What’s Happening Behind You Is None of Your Business - Forget about rearview mirrors. All that matters is in front of you. Do Go When You Can Go - In Vietnam, nobody gives way. Ever. Don’t Mess with Buses - Might is right. You don’t agree? Bus drivers couldn’t care less. citypassguide.com
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need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht history
History Vietnam’s history can be roughly divided into the following periods: Pre-history Ancient Vietnam originated from circa 400,000 years (Paleolithic) to 4,000 years (Neolithic) ago. Early cultures in the area included Son Vi, Hoa Binh, Bac Son, Ha Long and Hoa Loc. Proto-history According to legends, the first Vietnamese Kingdom was founded in the seventh century BC by the Hung Kings and named Van Lang. In the third century BC, King An Duong Vuong founded Au Lac and ruled until 179 BC. Since 179 BC, Vietnam was ruled by the Chinese Empire for many centuries. Monarchy A number of dynasties ruled by Vietnamese kings held sway from 939 AD to 1945. During this period, Vietnam was repeatedly attacked by foreign invaders and the borders flowed back and forth. This era of history ended when Bao Dai, the last emperor from the famous Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945), abdicated in 1945. 158
thingstotoKNOW need SEE history
French War Vietnam battled French colonialism from 1858 to the August Revolution in 1945. The final victory was secured at the battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954. American War North Vietnam fought the United States from 1954 until the Americans pulled out in 1975. Reunification On the first day after the American War, the government changed Saigon’s name to Ho Chi Minh City. Damage from the war was extensive and rebuilding efforts were put in place. A rapid transition to Socialism in the South proved to be a harder task than expected. Doi Moi As the Soviet Union began scaling back its commitments to the rest of the Communist world, Vietnam was forced to follow suit in 1986. Reformist Nguyen Van Linh was chosen to lead the Vietnamese Communist Party, and one of his first acts was to institute a radical economic reform policy: the Doi Moi. Since then, the economy has grown at an annual rate of 7%. In 2000, a bilateral trade agreement between Vietnam and the United States was a significant milestone for Vietnam’s economy. citypassguide.com
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Consulate Listings in Ho Chi Minh City 47 Ly Tu Trong, D1 028 3521 8100 Belgium No 105, Duong Van An, D2 028 6281 8001 Cambodia 41 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 028 3829 2751 Canada 235 Dong Khoi, D1 028 3827 9899 Czech Republic 18 Bis/28 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 028 3829 0585 Chile Villa Famosa, 121A, 38st., D2 028 3743 2717 China 175 Hai Ba Trung, D1 028 3829 2457 Cuba 5B, 45 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 028 3822 8289 Denmark 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 028 3821 9373 Finland 111A Pasteur, D1 028 3827 2029 France 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 028 3520 6800 Germany 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 028 3822 4385 Hungary 9-11 Ton Duc Thang, D1 016 8422 5328 Iceland 80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 028 3827 4462 India 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 028 3823 7050 Indonesia 18 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 028 3825 1888 Italy 93 Nguyen Du, D1 028 3827 5445 Japan 261 Dien Bien Phu, D3 028 3933 3510 Laos 93 Pasteur, D1 028 3829 7667 Malaysia 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 028 3829 3132 Netherlands 29 Le Duan, D1 028 3823 5932 New Zealand 235 Dong Khoi, D1 028 3822 6907 Norway 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 028 3822 1696 Panama 7A Le Thanh Ton, D1 028 3825 0334 Philippines 40/5 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh D 028 3518 0045 Russia 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 028 3930 3936 Singapore 65 Le Loi, D1 028 3914 2937 South Korea 107 Nguyen Du, D1 028 3822 5757 Sweden 186 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 028 3519 2334 Switzerland 37th Floor, Bitexco, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 028 3821 9580 Taiwan 182 Le Dai Hanh, D11 028 3962 1745 Thailand 77 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 028 3932 7638 Ukraine 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 028 3911 8304 United Kingdom 25 Le Duan, D1 028 3825 1380 United States 4 Le Duan, D1 028 3822 9433 Australia