DESTINATIONS Pakistan- 10th Issue - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine.

ISSUE #10

Catch Me If You Can

Feroze Khan Let the Journey Begin

Lahore Biennale 01 Vanity Fair in

Sheikhu Shareef

AIMAL KHAN

1 st

Anniversary special

Cherry Blossoms IN Hunza

Our Guide to

#LSA2017 How to Travel with Your Tribe

Puglia,

Italy

1 contents. st

Anniversary special ISSUE #10

FEROZE KHAN

CATCH ME IF YOU CAN

On the cover

p.30

MAN ON THE SCENE 30

Feroze Khan Catch Me If You Can

DESTINATIONS DIARY 46

Hanami: Cherry Blossoms Welcome Spring in Hunza

THE FASHION FIX 169 186 192

p. 46

HANAMI: CHERRY BLOSSOMS WELCOME SPRING IN

HUNZA

p. 169

Our Guide to #LSA2017 RunwayxRed Carpet Top Trends at PSFW17

p. 103

NEAR & AFAR 26 28

my

Dream Destinations Destinations Desires

STYLE RULES

Puglia, Italy

68 78 80 92

Vanity Fair The 5Ws + 1H with Mohsin Khawar Q+A with Aimal Khan Desert Rose

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 82

Secrets, Superstitions and the Stars

ART SPEAKS 103

108

DESTINATIONSxLB01 Let The Journey Begin High Impact Art

TRAVELISTA

p. 130

117

Tulum & The Art of Travel

REFLECTIONS

p. 117

122

The Australasian Saga: A Journey of Homecomings

A LIFE WORTH LIVING 130

How To Travel With Your Tribe Puglia, Italy

WANDERER

146 156

Home Base Toronto Seoul Searching

VISIONARY 140

TULUM &

The Art Of

TRAVEL

#BrandPakistan The Berlin Connection

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR : DESIGN & LAYOUT : OFFICIAL PHOTOGRAPHER : MEDIA SALES : KARACHI CORRESPONDENT: CIRCULATION INCHARGE : PUBLISHED BY :

LEGAL ADVISOR : GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER (DAEWOO) : CONTACT (SALES) :

DISTRIBUTORS: PRINTERS :

destinationspk

MARIAM MUSHTAQ ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH USMAN MUNIR ZOHAIB AKHTAR UBAID-UR-REHMAN NAEEM ULLAH YASMEEN HASHMI SHAAN ALI Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma Chowk, Lahore, Pakistan +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 BASIT WAHEED WATTOO SHERIAR HASSAN USMAN HAYAT +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) naeem.ullah@daewoo.com.pk +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY TOPICAL PRINTERS

destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

destinationspk

contributors Tammy Bux

Sheheryar B. Sheikh

Yusra Askari

Madeeha Syed

The Australasian Saga: A Journey of Homecomings p.122

Home Base Toronto p.146

Seoul Searching p.156

Secrets, Superstitions and the Stars p.82

Tammy Bux is a strategist by day and storyteller by night. She and her husband Shahid travel frequently through South East Asia as they fly between their homes in Perth and Silicon Valley. Her life-long love affair with French language and literature earned her a first class honours degree from the University of Western Australia. She has a deep and abiding connection to her Pakistani heritage having spent all her childhood holidays nestled in the embrace of her large family there. Captivated by the stories of her ancestors she continues to unearth tales about them as she journeys her way through her abundant and blessed life.

Sheheryar B. Sheikh has an MFA from the University of Notre Dame, where he won Steve Thomasula’s La vie da Boheme Award and a Nicholas Sparks Scholarship. His short fiction and criticism has appeared in journals including Prism International, Black Warrior Review and The Potomac.

He lives with his wife in Saskatoon, Canada, where he researches classical and contemporary apocalyptic narratives for his PhD. His debut novel The Still Point of the Turning World was released earlier this year.

With a degree in textile design from the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture, Yusra Askari is a print and electronic media journalist, based in Karachi. Having begun her professional career teaching Art History at her alma mater, Yusra is now NDTV’s Pakistan Correspondent, doing her bit for better cross border ties, one story at time.

Madeeha Syed is a journalist, an awardwinning documentary filmmaker and radio correspondent constantly looking for excuses to travel. She hates heights but loves mountains; is a long-distance cyclist and certified one-star CMAS diver. And by the end of most trips, a broke backpacker.

Jaffer Hasan Desert Rose p.92

editors note from the

Journeys are always exciting. They’re always brimming with the promise of adventure and always carry forth memorable tales of exploration. Therefore, it is with great joy and honor we announce that DESTINATIONS has been on the road for a year and has many amazing tales to relate from our journey thus far. It’s a milestone for us and there’s many more to go. On the road with us, this time we find the equally young and spirited Feroze Khan. His energy and enthusiasm encapsulates the essence of our odyssey. Like a phoenix, he is on the rise and there’s no stopping him!

To be young is a great time to be alive. The list of possibilities is endless. Making a trip of their own to the rustic plains of Punjab are two very talented young people- photographer Mohsin Khawar and Pakistan’s ace male model, Aimal Khan. Through a colorful collage of photos they capture the vibrancy and the vibe of the annual carnival they attend at SheikhuShareef, a small village in Okara district.

Spring breeds new life and marks new beginnings. In the northern valley of Hunza, the season is welcomed in shades of pink and white as the legendary cherry blossoms bloom for a brief one month. Photographer-writer sister duo, Maryam and Zainab Altaf go on a magical tour through a land that is frequented by princes and fairies.

Also off the beaten track comes a great tale of adventure, mystery and romance. The cave city of Lasbella, officially Gondrani was home to a people once. Who were they and where did they go; when and why did they live in these caves, we may never truly know but there are many legends abound what is now known as the ‘House of Spirits’. With her spell binding photos and fabled stories, journalist and travel enthusiast, Madeeha Syed takes us on this mythical trip through Balochistan.

Moving away from the past into the future, we are looking forward to the coming year when Lahore will host one of the biggest art events of Pakistan as it presents the Lahore Biennale from February 4 through March 25, 2018.

DESTINATIONS is proud to serve as the official media partner for the biennale that will carry us forward into the international art arena.

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

It is heartening to note how the Pakistani art scene is flourishing and our artists are receiving accolades. This issue features five contemporary artists who have made headlines, both on national and global scale, for their groundbreaking works in recent months.

While on the topic of going places, the Pakistan embassy in Berlin recently showcased #BrandPakistan, an event celebrating the best of Pakistani style. A city renowned for its resilience and avant-garde style, it served as the perfect backdrop to highlight a side of Pakistan not often presented internationally.

In the late 1800s, Khawaja Mohammad Bux set sail from the Indian subcontinent and landed ashore the far away city of Perth, Australia, founding a new home for himself and all future generations. Crossing continents and cultures, this is the story Madiha Bux tells of her family and their legacy as they made their mark in a foreign land without losing sight of their native identity.

To inspire your summer plans, we have holiday narratives from the Far East, Central America and parts of lesser travelled Europe. From Seoul comes a comprehensive A-Z city guide as journalist, Yusra Askari details the best the Korean capital has to offer. In the exotic city of Tulum, Momina Aijazuddin Saeed and her family holiday on pristine sand beaches, visit ancient Mayan ruins and see mystical underwater caves. Meanwhile, London-based Sania Broad travels to the coastal region of Puglia, south Italy in tow with her husband and her brood of four to experience the rustic charm and rich history of ancient sites, baroque architecture, olive trees and whitewashed towns.

With all these chronicles of discovery, accounts of accomplishments, sagas relating family history and holiday stories, our message is loud and clear: the world is your oyster!

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH

FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

NEAR & AFAR

Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.

Mangla

How to get there: Mangla is located at a distance of 250 km from Lahore, roughly a 4-hour drive. One can opt for either the M2 Motorway or the GT Road. From Islamabad, the place can be reached in 2 hours.

Where to stay: Given the lack of accommodation options in Mangla and its proximity to both Lahore and Islamabad, it is best to plan a day trip. Alternatively, one can stay the night in Mirpur city, a 20-minute drive from Mangla

26

What to do: Mangla Lake and its surrounding areas offer various water sports activities as well as sight-seeing opportunities. Boating and fishing are popular with families and a nearby park makes for an excellent picnic spot. History buffs can make the 10-minute boat trip to see Ramkot Fort atop a hill, offering picturesque views of the Mangla Dam and lake.

ess, ter a Hindu godd Mangla, named af Mirpur in AJK. It om fr km 12 d te ca is lo , of the Mangla Dam rests at the mouth in t earth-fill dams one of the larges ic or the site of the hist is d an , ld or w e th Ramkot Fort.

Aarhus, Denmark

cond Aarhus, Denmark’s se h and largest city with a ric en be vibrant history, has pital named the cultural ca 2017. of Europe for the year such From must-see sites, ones, as the Jelling Rune St age a UNESCO world herit lleries, site, to thriving art ga nts to Michelin-star restaura rter, its ancient Latin Qua iad the city presents myr vvy sa opportunities for the traveller.

How to get there: One can opt for Qatar, Turkish or Emirates airlines to make the 12hour journey.

Where to stay: The historic Hotel Royal is set in an elegant, neoclassical building dating back to 1838.

The impressive interior features stained glass windows, 300 original art pieces and glass chandeliers. Guests can dine in style under the conservatory glass ceiling of the Queen’s Garden restaurant.

What to do: During the months of MayJune, Aarhus annually hosts the NorthSide Music Festival and Spot Music Festival featuring many local and international acts. The city’s various museums and art galleries, such as the Aros Art Museum, are top tourist attractions. Moreover, some of Denmark’s best beaches are scattered around the coast near Aarhus, set against forests. As for the food, from small farmer’s markets to fine-dining establishments, the culinary delights on offer here won this city the prestigious title of European Region of Gastronomy 2016.

27

NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

Lahore Literary Festival in NYC Celebrating its fifth edition earlier this year in Lahore, the LLF has firmly established itself as one of Pakistan’s premier cultural events. And for the second year in a row, the literary festival will be travelling to New York City, giving American audiences the opportunity to engage with Pakistani arts, popular culture, and politics. The LLF will be held at the Asia Society on May 6 and participants include novelist Mohammed Hanif; MacArthur fellow and contemporary artist Shahzia Sikander; Pulitzer-prize winning composer Du Yun; former Viacom CEO Tom Freston; New York Times literary critic Dwight Garner; Metropolitan Museum of Art curator Navina Najat Haider; Pulitzer-prize winning author Siddhartha Mukherjee; and journalist and foreign policy author Ahmed Rashid.

1

2

Dolce & Gabbana Designer Kitchen Appliances Couture for your kitchen and not just your closet? If you’re obsessed with chic home décor, Dolce and Gabbana’s recently announced line of kitchen appliances is just right for you. The Italian luxury label has teamed up with home appliances company Smeg on a capsule collection of kitchenwares. The ‘Sicily Is My Love’ collection, which includes toasters, citrus juicers, coffee machines, kettles and blenders, is adorned with the label’s signature southern Italy-inspired motifs and will hit stores in October. That’s enough time to save up in order to give your kitchen countertop a designer makeover.

28

3

The Aleph Review Get started on your summer reading with The Aleph Review - the first publication of Broken Leg Publishing and an annual anthology of creative expression ranging from prose to poetry to artwork.

With over 42 local and international contributors, it is a space for emerging and established artists and writers. The inaugural issue is dedicated to Taufiq Rafat, credited as being the father of the Pakistani idiom in modern English literature. The book is available at The Last Word in Lahore and Saeed Book Bank and the London Book Company in Islamabad.

4

A juicy patty spiced to perfection. Check. A freshlybaked homemade bun. Check. Sides that will have you begging for more. Check. Do yourself a favour, and order BBGB’s ‘The Signature’ today. Made from the highest graded minced beef with a hint of farmfresh herbs and topped with a delicious relish of wild mushrooms, sautéed onions and pickled jalapenos, this is the burger that’s fast becoming a foodie favourite.

It’s served with three delicious sides – chili and herb roasted wedges, wasabi slaw and pickled gherkins.

For home delivery, place your order with Road Runner at 0334-1310131 or Cheetay at 042-111-119-666.

5

BK Jani If you’re looking for a good halal burger in NYC, BK Jani is the answer to your prayers. Chef and owner Sibte Hassan, a Lahori by birth, translates his Punjabi heritage into mouth-watering burgers and barbeque that have led the New York Times to dub him ‘the Midas of Meat.’ Located in Bushwick, Brooklyn, BK Jani is unpretentious and homey, and it is this very simplicity that is evident in its menu as well, limited only to five items, each one perfected to the tee.

29

MAN ON THE SCENE

Jacket: Munib Nawaz Shirt: Splash Trousers: Feroze’s Personal

30

FEROZE KHAN

CATCH ME IF YOU CAN

By Zahra Hidayatullah

Feroze Khan just wants to live the dream and then live to tell the tale.

DESTINATIONS talks to the enigma who has risen like a phoenix but remains as mythical as the unicorn.

How he got here, where is he headed next and why there’s no stopping him, here he sets the record straight on all matters of fame, family and faith.

PHOTOGRAPHY: STYLING: GROOMING: TRANSPORTATION:

UMAIR BIN NISAR EHTESHAM ANSARI N-GENTS DAEWOO CAB

MAN ON THE SCENE

Scarf: Khaadi Shirt: Splash

A

s he steps into the studio, the vibe changes – energy levels shoot up, the lights come on, the music gets louder and on a balmy Karachi spring afternoon, the bright sun blazes stronger than it ever has before.

Feroze breezes in wearing a lightweight jacket, something that James Dean would have rocked on a cool Cali evening. The moment we have been waiting for arrives: the camera lens zooms out, Feroze strikes a pose, quite a few in fact, and we see magic in the making.

As age appropriate as it is, this 27-year-old’s style is rooted in athletic luxe but he takes to high fashion with natural ease. It is hard to imagine this super-fit star was once a bulky teenager but it seems Feroze Khan is not one to shy away from hard work. The result is a toned physique and the confidence that comes with it. “Yes, I am a very focused person constantly working towards my goals but at the same time, I firmly believe in destiny. I consider myself extremely lucky to be where I am today and to have achieved what I have so far. It feels like I was ‘chosen’ for it.”

For someone as young as Feroze, this deep resonance with faith is certainly not commonplace. “My family and I have been through some rough times. Therefore, every single day we are thankful for what we have.” It is no surprise then that while other TV/film actors and anchors queued up for hosting Ramzan shows, Feroze with his mother and his sister, film star Humaima Malick made a trip to Mecca to perform Umrah (a pilgrimage of gratitude).

Like his past Ramzan itinerary, Feroze Khan himself is equally unexpected. Despite his good looks and natural spot amid the celebrity-sibling hierarchy, he does not take things for granted. “I actually started from the very start. I began my career as a video jockey for a music channel and since then have worked my way up.” While many others may attribute their rise to sheer hard work and dedication, Feroze hits another tangent. “In the Sufi strain, the concept of being ‘given’ is key; that is why it holds great significance in my life.

Everything I am, everything I have today – fame, fortune, family – has been ‘given’ to me.

There is no science for success and no formula for stardom. We, human beings, can only do so much. We cannot plan our tomorrow. We cannot plan our today. We are what we get.

And we get what we deserve.”

It seems God has been kind to the Malick-Khan clan. While both the siblings are fairly successful actors and models in their own rights, Feroze gives credit to his sister for watching over him, lighting the way and leading him in his early days.

33

MAN ON THE SCENE

“There’s no free lunch in this world and over time I have become aware of that. There are no unconditional favours except when it is for family.

Blood is thicker than water. So I would say that my sister Humaima is a gift from God. She has been my protector, my friend, my guide. She has steered me away from things I needed to be pulled away from, has helped bring focus back to my life and taken me places of which I could only dream of.

She is amazing in the strength that she provides me, in the amazing people she has introduced me to, in the amazing experiences she has shared with me. Today the confidence that I have is because of Humaima.”

In between shots, we hear whispers of things getting a little out of hand on social media.

There are murmurs relating tales of aggression and smack-downs. “See, opinion matters to me.

Stardom comes in a package – there’s lights, camera, action, fans, social media likes, brands, money and then, opinions. So when I read things about myself which are not true, sometimes, just sometimes, it affects me and I react.” However, his social media fan base has only continued to grow.

Feroze’s Facebook page remains updated with all his news and current happenings and he has a verified Instagram account with almost five hundred thousand organic followers – a crucial metric in the heartthrob sweepstakes.

“These past two years, I’ve seen miracles happen for me everyday. This is the best time of my life. I believe in the power of One and that’s all I believe in.” Faith is Feroze’s primary support. Faith and then family. “You can’t decide if you want to be the best actor or not. Like I said before, if you are ‘given’, then there’s no stopping the win!” However, this believer lives under no illusions of permanence. “It’s all about the time. Right now is my time but I know change is the only constant in life. Fame is transient and I know it will not stay forever. But before it goes, I want to live up to every second of it.”

A primal instinct of survival stirs up in him that raw machismo, that grit, the fight. “In Spanish, my name means fierce and in Persian, it means victorious.

In little time, there’s so much I have seen and lived through that I consider myself triumphant for many different reasons; to have been given my own place under the sun which I can mark it as my territory; Feroze Khan’s territory; to have seen Karachi’s dark underbelly and escape unscathed from situations that could be, putting it mildly, dangerous, to say the least.”

“There are no unconditional favours except when it is for family. Today the confidence that I have is because of Humaima.”

There’s no denying that Feroze is a handsome man.

What is brilliant is (apart from the obvious gender difference) his uncanny resemblance with his sister, also a very good-looking person. One look at him and you cannot help but notice the same chiselled jawline, pointy chin, sharp features and the nowfamous thick eyebrow. But family association, a piercing gaze and a charming smile do not make a career. There needs to be more to set him aside from the sea of hunks washing along the teeming shores of TV. The pivot takes the form of Zain, a struggling filmmaker in Zindagi Kitni Haseen Hay. At such an early stage in his professional life, it has established Feroze Khan as the dynamic hero who can lead a film independently.

34

It seems this young Khan has a knack for making odds work in his favour. “There was a time when my mother had a bad accident and was fighting for dear life. At that point, two things happened: 1) I understood the value of family and how important they are; 2) I resolved to make my family and my country proud of my work.” Since then there has been no looking back.

The experience seemed to have left him wiser beyond his years: “I’ve understood the value of life and family in time. That is the best thing I have achieved so far. I don’t hesitate hugging my mother, or my father anymore. I don’t fear telling anyone how good or bad I feel on any given day.

That is what I have achieved. Material things don’t matter to me at all; it’s the emotion, the values, the feelings that are important.”

This isn’t the story of some frat boy living the good life. He is doing everything he possibly can to make it happen as he goes along. “Spirituality is the axis which my world spins on and it keeps me going.

I have high hopes for the future.

The next five years are going to be an exciting time in my life.” The eternal optimist may be doing something right for all the positive vibes he’s sending out into the world seem to be reciprocating with equal measure.

“Considering where I am today in life and what I do, I would say I am living my dream! There is much that I am grateful for – each morning that I am able to wake up, get off the bed and stand on my own feet, for the work that I have, the respect that I receive, for having healthy parents and being able to greet them each day; I would say I truly feel blessed.

The interview time is almost over and the photographer beckons the young star to get back to the shoot floor. I ask him one last question before the lights come on and transport him away to the distant reel life. It’s the kind of pre-packaged question you ask everyone just to see if the response matches your expectations. What inspires you?

Feroze pauses before he answers, “Nature! Good weather, mountains, lakes, all sorts of different people, cultures, anything and everything…but at this moment in time, it’s music!”

As if on cue, Chumba Wumba’s Tubthumping gets louder, the camera zooms back into life and Feroze pulls his collar up and gazes straight into the lens.

I get knocked down But I get up again You’re never gonna keep me down.

Outside, the sun has waned and given way to a velvet sky full of stars. Amidst the constellations, I spot the North Star shining bright as ever with a purpose of its own.

I wish Feroze the very best before walking off. May the music never stop for you.

Black Jacket & Shoes: Mohsin Naveed Ranjha Green Jacket & Waistcoat: Ismail Fareed T-shirt: Splash

MAN ON THE SCENE

36

Black Jacket & Shoes: Mohsin Naveed Ranjha Green Jacket & Waistcoat: Ismail Fareed T-shirt: Splash

37

MAN ON THE SCENE

Bomber Jacket: Splash Glasses: Linda Farrow Shoes: Adidas

Polo: Splash Suit: Deepak and Fahad Shoes: Pedro Accessories: Bershka Glasses: Cazal

MAN ON THE SCENE

Polo: Splash Suit: Deepak and Fahad Shoes: Pedro Accessories: Bershka Glasses: Cazal

41

MAN ON THE SCENE

Shirt: H&M Watch: Omega AM PM Store Shoes: Adidas

43

44

45

DESTINATIONS DIARY

46

HANAMI: CHERRY BLOSSOMS WELCOME SPRING IN

HUNZA

An introduction by Hassan Tahir Latif

“Hanami is a long-standing Japanese tradition of welcoming spring. Also known as the “cherry blossom festival,” this annual celebration is about appreciating the temporal beauty of nature. People gather under blooming cherry blossoms for food, drink, songs, companionship and the beauty of sakura (cherry blossoms).” - samovartea In between the frozen nights of winter and the scorching days of summer, there lies a magical realm that comes alive with the ephemeral sakura. From the mystical shores of Japan to the wide banks flanking the Potomac, the arrival of this pink wonder leads to festivals around the world celebrating spring. Little, however, is known of the valleys in Northern Pakistan that also turn pink, as they play host to this temporary spectacle.

The valley of Hunza has charmed visitors from Pakistan and abroad with its picturesque vistas and the warm hospitality of its people. Although the beauty of Hunza is perennial, it is specially elevated when cherry blossoms come to life.

We set out on a journey to travel to this land of enchanted stories of princes and fairies.

Trip Sponsored By

DESTINATIONS DIARY

D

Travelogue By Zainab Altaf Photography By Maryam Altaf

uring the months of March and April, the valleys of Gilgit-Baltistan are covered in a blanket of white, pink and green as the fabled cherry blossoms that herald the end of winter bloom. Journalist Zainab Altaf recently travelled to Hunza to chronicle this magical spectacle of nature. Here, she shares excerpts from her daily journal‌

48

Day 01

4 am: Frequent visitors to Hunza tell us that a journey by road will take a minimum of 16 hours from Islamabad. Our Hunzai driver is confident he will get us to Karimabad, Hunza’s tourism capital, in 12. As we wait for him to pick us for the long drive, twelve is the number that sounds most appealing.

7 am: Plans of catching some shuteye on the road were definitely over-ambitious. Sitting in Deedar Karim’s vehicle makes one feel like a participant in a Formula One race. He insists speeding over potholes was necessary to beat the early morning traffic of Manshera. Our bones hope the rest of the ride is smoother…

Deedar is friendly and full of information; and adept at boosting his passengers’ excitement about visiting Hunza. His upbeat chatter cancels out the sad love songs on his playlist that we have politely been listening to since the car left Islamabad.

9 am: Breakfast at a roadside restaurant in Chattar where Mr. Karim introduces us to the Hunzai way of drinking tea: Mixed, with a pinch of pepper and salt, no sugar please!

10 am: Green hills and gushing streams of water become our constant companions as the road begins to curve more and more. We wonder aloud about the tin-and-steel makeshift lifts that connect villages across the mountains. Our city souls challenged by Deedar Karim, we board the next such garari, hoping the steel rope and the improvised lift can bear the weight of the eight adults crammed into the tiny space! Men from the nearby villages hold their groceries as we ooh and ahh at flying over terraced green fields.

11 am: Schoolboys clad in lavender coloured shalwar kameez signal our entry into Besham. Bright colours seem to be trending for school uniforms in Kohistan. Groups of boys wearing green, orange, and blue stand chattering at road corners. We see no girls on the roads or in the bazaars that we pass through.

2 pm: Lunch at a roadside dhaba besides the rapid waters of Sumar Nala is a much-needed break. Charpais (string beds) are the seats and a concrete tub filled with the cold spring water is the drinks cooler at this restaurant.

4 pm: The greenery has gradually disappeared from view. And judging from the bumpy ride, so has most of the road. Even Deedar can’t joke away the bone-jarring driving conditions. The promised 12 hours are up, and we are still a good five hours away from Hunza…

5 pm: Graffiti over the ancient rock carvings along the KKH near Chilas is a sad sight. Even the mountain goats being herded to cattle markets in the area seem forlorn. Or maybe it is just the effect of the barren brown rocks and the endlessly pot-holed road.

7 pm: Gilgit city. The viewpoint of Nanga Parbat at Thailchi tells us that Hunza is finally within reach. Deedar’s playlist has also moved on to happier tunes. And the road couldn’t be smoother! As we reach Nagar district, Deedar shows us how to spot tiny rubies hiding amongst the pebbles besides the road. All is well with the world again.

9 pm: A taste of chapsuro, traditional Hunza bread stuffed with meat, for dinner at a dhaba and we are soon in the central town of Karimabad. After a five-hour drive from Lahore to Islamabad and a straight seventeen hours on the road from Islamabad to Hunza, we have reached our destination. Phew!

49

DESTINATIONS DIARY

50

51

DESTINATIONS DIARY

52

53

Day 02 DESTINATIONS DIARY

9 am: We share our plans for the next few days with the staff at the hotel. They listen to our jabber politely, pointing out with kind smiles that the trees in bloom are mostly apricot and almond; cherry blossoms are almost finished, and apple has barely started. I feel like such an uninformed tourist in my own country.

10 am: Looking at the fierce sunlight outdoors, the manager at Hunza Embassy offers us a ride to the main street in one of the hotel’s ‘adventure’ jeeps.

We clamber in excitedly. The ride lasts a total of one minute before the jeep stalls… awkward! The people of Hunza take hospitality seriously, and we are soon in another vehicle.

12 pm: We are told that the valley is swarming with local and international tourists, all attracted by the blossom season. But the sun is harsh and the main bazaar is empty at 11 am. A Hunzai friend takes us to the Royal Gardens where row upon row of trees in bloom form a continuous canopy over our head. Tiny white petals float down in the breeze. The gardens are right beside the road but the only sound to be heard is the soft rustle of the wind. These trees are as majestic as the ancient Mir’s palace that rises behind them. The valley and snow-capped mountains, visible through the lattice of the branches, are no match today for the flowers that weigh down the boughs like thick round snowballs. A zen garden in the truest sense.

3 pm: Our hearts full of the ethereal beauty of the blossoms, we walk through dirt paths that lead to clusters of houses around Karimabad. The houses present a town in transition; traditional structures standing next to more modern exteriors of brick and cement. The fruit trees are everywhere though, with glimpses of pink and white blossoms peaking over courtyard walls.

4 pm – 7 pm: The beauty of the blossoms is matched by the welcoming and friendly nature of the Hunzakuts. Offers of namkeen chai (salted tea) and home-cooked food sweeten our day.

Our new friends extoll the health benefits of their sugar-free tea, but caution against simply sprinkling salt on top. It has to be added while the tea is brewing, otherwise hello, high blood pressure!

Everyone in Hunza knows everyone else from Hunza, and a greeting at one house soon turns into an invitation to visit ten others. We meet musicians, engineers, development consultants, and Fulbright scholars – all in the course of one short day, all of them lured back by the calm that pervades their valley. We also come across children filling buckets of water from streams to water small patches of family land. There is no self-pity or discontent: only a palpable feeling of pride for their hardworking and compassionate community.

54

55

DESTINATIONS DIARY

56

57

Day 03

DESTINATIONS DIARY

8 am: An early wakeup call to catch the sun rising along the Karakoram has us all set for a visit to the upper Hunza hamlets of Gulmit and Passu. Our car zooms through the carpet-smooth Pak-China Friendship tunnels to reach Gulmit in half an hour. At discovering our enthusiasm for trying indigenous cuisine, the manager of Gulmit Inn presents us with pithi (home-baked traditional bread), home-churned butter, and homemade apple jam for breakfast.

Namkeen chai is a given. The fact that every restaurant only serves the standard Pakistani fare of parathas and omelettes for breakfast as a nod to tourist demand makes us appreciate such gestures all the more.

12 pm: Our guide in Gulmit takes this hospitality one step further and after a trek through terraced fields for the perfect view of the famous Attabad Lake, invites us to his family home. It turns out that our expression of interest in seeing traditional architecture has already led to his family laying out a lunch of local delicacies for us. The young children are at school and we are kept company by the older women as we sit on colourful red floor mats. Smoke mingles with sunbeams entering through the pentagon-shaped chimney that is a distinct feature of every kitchen in Hunza. We have baath (a mixture of milk, water, home-ground wheat flour, butter‌ and salt) with giyaling (wheat crepes brushed with apricot oil). With sugar and loads of fattening oil, it could possibly transform into suji ka halwa and puris‌ 2 pm: We would not have thought there could be a more mesmerizing bunch of blossoming trees than the ones at the Royal Garden in central Hunza. Were we wrong! There is a village in Gulmit called Gule-Gulmit for good reason. As the narrow dirt roads climb higher and higher, the blossoms appear to take on a more majestic aspect, at par with the Passu Cones that form the backdrop.

4 pm: We are amazed at the variety of blossoming trees in Hunza.

Our guide informs us that there are seven different types of apricot trees alone! I am afraid we failed his pop quizzes on differentiating between the blossoms of an almond tree from a cherry tree, and an apricot one from an apple tree quite a few times.

58

59

DESTINATIONS DIARY

60

61

DESTINATIONS DIARY

62

Day 04

10 am: We arrive back in Karimabad and are guided to Baltit Fort through a ‘short cut’ that includes an uphill hike through green fields dotted with yellow wildflowers. We had assumed that the fruit blossoms were the heralders of spring in the valley. The villagers working in the fields tell us that the unassuming yellow flowers are in fact considered to be the first sign of spring by the Hunzakuts. Made perfect sense to Lahorites who love basant…

2 pm – 5 pm: The 800-year-old fort is as imposing as ever, its Tibetan architecture visible from the valley below. We come back through the alleys of the ancient fort city preserved by the Aga Khan Foundation, stepping through cobbled lanes only wide enough for one person.

Wooden ladders stand outside the interconnected single-room houses where the favourite cable channels are K-2 TV and Zee TV. A flute player hanging out at his friend’s handicrafts store gives us an impromptu performance within the shop as we stuff ourselves with mamtos (traditional minced meat dumplings). From scorching sunshine to stormy rain clouds, the weather has changed dramatically during the day, and we are glad for the warmth of the green tea brewed from mountain herbs.

8 pm: As we say goodbye to all the wonderful people who befriended us in Hunza, we muse about the strange feeling of homesickness for a valley that has only been our home for a few days. We had come to Hunza expecting to be wowed by the sight of flowering trees against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. We were leaving just as impressed by its smiling and peace-loving inhabitants.

63

DESTINATIONS DIARY

64

Where to stay:

BLOSSOMS IN HUNZA Why go:

The mountains The food The extremely hospitable people The rich culture Also, it so safe and crime-free that women can walk around the bazaars without any worries.

What to take along:

Lots of sunscreen (the sun is pretty strong at 2500 meters) Your favourite music (it takes a minimum of 16 hours via road from Islamabad) Lots of good cheer (long drive…)

Must-do List:

Visit Baltit Fort, Altit Fort and the preserved ancient village of Ganesh.

See Haldeikish rock carvings on your way to upper Hunza.

Stop for a boat ride on Attabad Lake.

Take a day hike around Karimabad along the water channel paths. The 2 paths offer different, but equally mesmerizing, views of the valley.

Up the adventure ante of your vacation and take a walk along the rickety wooden suspension bridge of Hussaini!

In Karimabad:

Serena’s expensive ‘luxury tents’ Don’t be fooled by the term tents- those are probably nice, spacious, and well designed rooms masquerading as tents with fabric draped over walls…I mean, a dressing table and LCD in a tent with a queen sized bed and an attached bath? Waiting for the day that the Serena brand takes makes these ‘tents’ available at the basecamps of Pakistan’s 8000 footer mountains…

The actual rooms are comme ci, comme ça and a bit on the expensive side going by local standards.

Hunza Embassy Hotel

In Gulmit:

Gulmit Continental Hotel

Gulmit Inn In Passu:

Passu Ambassador In Sost:

Hunza Embassy Hotel

What and where to eat:

Mamtos: Khan Café on the lane leading to Altit Fort Chapsuro: the roadside dhabas in Thole Chammus: Hunza food pavilion on the street leading to Baltit fort Burututz Berikutz: Hidden Paradise Café in Karimabad bazaar Walnut cake and Rosti: Café de Hunza, Karimabad Apricot cake: Glacier Breeze Restaurant, Passu 65

DESTINATIONS DIARY

66

67

STYLE RULES

68

VANITY FAIR PHOTOGRAPHY & STYLING : MOHSIN KHAWAR WARDROBE : REPUBLIC BY OMAR FAROOQ MODEL : AIMAL KHAN

STYLE RULES

71

STYLE RULES

72

73

STYLE RULES

74

75

STYLE RULES

76

77

STYLE RULES

5Ws + 1H with

Mohsin Khawar

By Zahra Hidayatullah

Meet Mohsin Khawar, the man who with the speed of his shutter and the lens of his camera, creates magic out of otherwise mostly mundane moments. A multi talented artist, he wears many hats- first and foremost as a photographer, who has won numerous awards and tokens of appreciation for his work, but what is lesser known is that he is an architect by training, an occasional writer and an actor and model in his previous life. Here he discusses the Who, Where, What, When, Why & How of his latest shoot with supermodel Aimal Khan at a quintessential Punjabi mela.

78

Who all went with you: Myself, Mohsin Khawar, as photographer Aimal Khan, the super model Republic, the clothing brand by Omar Farooq

Where did you go: MK: Annual carnival at Sheikhu Shareef, a small village in Okara district.

What did you see & do: MK: An annual occurrence, this mela (carnival) was exactly as I had imagined, only more vibrant and vivid. There was the quintessential motordrome and open bazaars selling all sorts of wares- bangles, dolls, balloons, beaded curtains, all variety of street food. We encountered malangs (sufi devotees) dancing, drum beaters whirling away; it was a purely native experience.

So the idea was that we incorporate all these elements in our shoot, which we did. I realized that the only thing that would stand out in this rich cultural setting would be Western outfits, hence we chose to shoot for Republic. We curled up Aimal’s hair and had him wear these sharp tailored clothes juxtaposing against the vibrancy of the carnival. At one point, the local children ran up to us while we were shooting and asked me if the guy I was photographing was Hrithik Roshan. With his coloured eyes and curled up hair, Aimal did carry an uncanny resemblance to the Indian star!

Who all went with you: MK: I worked with Aimal for this shoot primarily because he is a very hard working guy. If I ask him to work on a look, or to run around, or take photos in the sun regardless of temperature, he never has any issues. He’s a thorough professional and might I add, great company to travel with. Here I will also say that I have made very few friends within our fashion industry and he is one of them.

When did you conceptualize this shoot?

MK: Well, I had been thinking about doing this shoot for the last seven or eight months. I wanted to shoot in our rural setting. The colours, the atmosphere, the vibe- I wanted to capture it all. One of my close friends, who is an important person from the area, had told me about this annual festival so when the season for it finally rolled around, my friend facilitated us. He arranged our trip and hosted our stay at his ancestral home which is a hundred and fifty years old. We were fed a rich diet of mutton curry, organic chicken curry, saag (mustard leaves cooked in spices) and rice.

How did you feel at the carnival?

MK: I was so glad I was finally able to do this and with the right kind of support, it was an amazing experience. I’ve never done something like this before. It really felt like being in a technicolour dream and it was great!

79

STYLE RULES

Ai m al with Khan

SUPERMODEL

Hi Aimal, what are you up to?

AK: I’m hanging out at the LSAs after-party at the HSY Mansion.

What’s something you believe but other people think is insane?

AK: LOVE!

What’s your favourite place on earth?

AK: Home, Peshawar.

Who runs the world?

AK: Hahaha, I know you ladies want me to say it but no, it’s not what Beyoncé says; it’s business people!

What do you love to eat?

AK: Desi food, daal chawal and tawwa chicken.

How do you like to travel?

AK: Light.

Your best friends – animals or people?

AK: People.

The one thing you can’t live without?

AK: Attention! Joking… in reality, I prefer being away from the spotlight.

What keeps you awake at night?

AK: A good party.

What makes you go to sleep?

AK: My routine, which is a solid workout followed by a greasy meal.

This month of yours in three words…

AK: Exhausting, exhilarating and intense.

Books or movies?

AK: Movies You dream about?

AK: Yachts, beaches and Victoria’s Secret models.

How old are you?

AK: I’m an old soul…

What’s the best thing about being your age?

AK: My stamina.

What’s the worst thing about being your age?

AK: I’m restless.

Tell us about love.

AK: I can tell you about feelings, but not love – it’s just not happened yet!

80

If you were hosting DESTINATIONS for dinner, what would the menu be?

AK: A bit of everything.

Are you saying we look confused?

AK: No, you are well travelled and sophisticated.

Would you rather be predictable or spontaneous?

AK: Spontaneous, always spontaneous.

If you could time travel back in time, when would it be? And who would you hang out with?

AK: Is that a question even? Cleopatra, of course.

Describe your living space to us.

AK: A bachelor pad – and I’ll leave the rest to your imagination.

What’s a perfect day for you?

AK: Twenty-four hours of sleep... being in bed all day, eating healthy and watching mindless TV. What’s the most embarrassing thing you’ve ever done?

AK: Too many moments to mention, but a recent one has to be a dance dare while on stage at the Republic show for PSFW17.

How long does it take for you to decide what to wear?

AK: Forever and somehow, I feel I mess it up... don’t I? Your perfect companion?

AK: She’s somewhere out there.

Describe yourself.

AK: I’m funny, loyal to a fault and honest.

Sum up your personality in one quote.

AK: Be yourself and the world will adjust.

Photography: Dragonfly Wardrobe : Republic By Omar Farooq

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

82

Secrets, superstitions

STARS and the

By Madeeha Syed

The ‘House of Spirits’ in Balochistan tells the story of a mysterious people we may never fully know about…

B

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

alochistan is Pakistan’s best-kept secret. Dry, barren and inhospitable on the outside, it is a province that reveals its real beauty closer to night-time — at the golden hour when the rays of the setting sun highlight the various shades of brown and red that constitute the mountains. The textures on the surface expose how these massive tectonic plates smashed against each other to form the rocky mountains of the province. The evidence of how the earth came to be the way it is today is all still there, hidden by forests and vegetation, protected from the civilizations that came along the way.

Balochistan’s emptiness has served to preserve its natural history.

The fact that it is currently the least populated province, despite being the largest in Pakistan, has also helped to preserve the history of some of the ancients that once lived there. At night, the sky opens up unlike anywhere else to reveal the stories of worlds long gone.

To spend a night in Balochistan is to experience a surreal and magical feeling.

The ‘House of Spirits’ or the cave city of Lasbella (officially referred to as Gondrani) is known by a variety of different names. To the locals, it’s known as Shehr-e-Roghan and is situated around 175 km from Karachi.

Part of the journey is off the highway on a dirt trail – if you can find it.

84

Caves similar to those in Cappadocia Cave dwelling isn’t ‘normalized’ in our part of the world. Going through the cave city of Godrani, one couldn’t help comparing it to the underground cave cities of Cappadocia, Turkey. The ones in Cappadocia run several stories underground, are well-developed, and account for the passage of fresh air so all levels are properly ventilated. They served as a refuge to some of the earliest Christian converts fleeing persecution. Owing to the fact that Turkey gets a large number of tourists every year, those cave cities are well preserved.

The ones at Godrani are not.

During the British colonial era, there were 1,500 caves or rooms on record. Now, hardly 500 remain. Like most archaeological sites in Pakistan, the caves are in a state of decay and erosion. No effort is made to preserve and protect them. And that, to me personally, is quite sad.

The city in itself is quite impressive: Carved into rocks in the mountain are rooms and balconies as well as spaces that may have served as kitchen areas, all connected by intricate pathways. There are niches for oil lamps and what look like hearths for fire to keep warm in the winter.

Who knows what became of the city’s original inhabitants?

85

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Legend has it…

There are lots of theories, but nothing that can be confirmed as fact. Historians are of the opinion that Godrani was once part of a large Buddhist monastery. This is consistent with the excavation of archaeological sites in the area pointing to the region possibly being part of a Buddhist kingdom in the eighth century.

Locals, however, tell a variety of different stories.

One of them is that of a king – who lived during the era of Solomon – and Badiul Jamal, his daughter.

Haunted by demons, her life was a living hell. Many tried to free her from these supernatural monsters but failed. In what can only be described as the plot of a fantasy film, it was a Prince Saif-ul-Mulook that finally defeated them.

86

In the most common legend related by the locals, the city of Godrani was haunted by demons and evil spirits from the mountains. Not only that but those evil beings would, allegedly, feed on the flesh of the people living there. In this version, no prince rushed to the rescue of the villagers. It was, in fact, an old pious woman by the name of Mai Balochani who offered her life as a sacrifice to the demons so that they would leave the villagers alone. According to others, she exorcised the village of the demons and stayed there to protect them until her death.

Her shrine exists in the first village closest to Godrani and is frequented by locals. I’m not particularly superstitious, but there’s hard evidence that this lady existed. Whether the demons actually did, or what really happened in her lifetime, is up for debate.

Photography: Hanif Bhatti

87

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Starry, starry night Amateur astronomers and ardent stargazers have long been going to Balochistan to observe the heavens. To gaze at the stars is like staring into infinity – they appear endless. Nowhere else is the sky so clear as to reveal the celestial map that is constantly above us. To observe it next to the ‘House of Spirits’ is a bit creepy, for sure, but then, what’s life without a bit of risk and adventure?

We observed the usual suspects visible at this time of the year: Orion’s Belt, Pleiades or the ‘Seven Sisters’ (a cluster of seven stars also known as ‘Soraya’ in the East), Pegasus, Perseus and Taurus.

The Andromeda Galaxy, our closest galactic neighbour, was visible via a telescope. As were the planets of Venus and Jupiter.

It’s when you look up at the stars – at celestial beings hundreds of thousands years old and several times the size of our own planet – that you’re struck by your own insignificance in the larger universe.

It’s a deeply humbling feeling and one that quickly puts your life and the pettiness of your problems in perspective. “There are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy,” said Shakespeare in Hamlet. Far more than we could ever imagine or hope to discover in one lifetime.

88

To spend a night in Balochistan is to experience a surreal and magical feeling.

89

STYLE RULES

Desert

rose

Against the rugged splendour of the coastline that straddles the provinces of Sindh and Balochistan, photographer Jaffer Hasan brings to life the contrasting beauty of Mubashira Usman’s delicate handcrafted ensembles.

PHOTOGRAPHY : WARDROBE : MAKEUP : MODEL : LOCATION :

JAFFER HASAN MUBASHIRA USMAN N-PRO ZARA ABID MUBARAK VILLAGE, KARACHI

93

STYLE RULES

94

95

STYLE RULES

96

97

STYLE RULES

98

99

STYLE RULES

100

101

DESTINATIONSXLB01

Photography: Sakshi Verma

Let the

Journey BEGIN 103

DESTINATIONSXLB01

L

ahore will host the biggest art event of its kind in the country, the Lahore Biennale, from February 4 to March 25 2018, under the artistic directorship of celebrated artist Rashid Rana. DESTINATIONS is proud to serve as the official media partner for the inaugral biennale, a celebration of local and international artists that aims to put the city of Lahore firmly on the prestigious global biennale schedule.

ahore, the capital city of the Punjab and its cultural and historical center, boasts a rich and varied history, with echoes of its Sikh, Mughal and colonial past seamlessly weaving into the fabric of its contemporary life. For centuries, it has served as a hotbed of artistic expression, inspiring generations of poets, philosophers, writers and artists. Many of the country’s leading artistic legends have called this city their home – be it Abdur Rahman Chughtai, Madam Noor Jehan, Saadat Hasan Manto and Faiz Ahmed Faiz or Shahzia Sikander, Rashid Rana and Imran Qureshi.

It is therefore no surprise that the first edition of the Lahore Biennale will take place in the cultural capital of Pakistan – in Lahore, it has found the perfect ready-made platform for public art.

Talk around town has it that the Lahore Biennale Foundation (LBF) is about to take over the city soon but many are still unsure as to what the word ‘biennale’ signifies. To put it simply, it is an Italian term meaning ‘biennial’ or ‘every other year’. More commonly, it has come to signify large-scale international contemporary art exhibitions that take place every other year in a chosen city, bringing together art and artists from around the world.

The concept originated in Venice where the first biennale took place in 1895. It comprised of a series of exhibitions opened by the king and queen at court. In 1910, the first international artists participated, including Gustave Klimt, Renoir, Courbet and Picasso amongst many others.

Currently, there are close to 100 biennales that take place around the world, in cities ranging from Venice, Sao Paulo and Sydney to Istanbul, Sharjah and Kochi, India.

104

Lahore will welcome its inaugural biennale from February 4 to March 25 2018, hosted by the Lahore Biennale Foundation under the artistic directorship of acclaimed contemporary artist Rashid Rana.

Over these 7 weeks, the Lahore Biennale 01 (LB01) will aim to stimulate intellectual discourse and creative expression with a large local and international audience gathered within the city.

According to Rana, what will set the LB01 apart from other art events of its kind will be a concerted effort to take art out of the confines of the standard gallery space and into the public sphere, allowing audiences to engage directly with the works.

“It is my desire that we create something, which generates ideas for the larger discourse in the art world and yet remains relevant to a large number of audiences from Lahore. Therefore, I am working on an idea that goes beyond ‘public art’; the city serves not just as a site but also as the medium. The aim is to create a biennale ‘without walls’ in every sense of the word to challenge the parameters of both the pre-existing biennale formats and the discipline of art itself,” explains Rana.

“I promise it to be a very different kind of a biennale not simply for the sake of being different,” he adds, “but because by being true to the contexts under which it takes place, it’s bound to be different; Lahore at present has a complex identity which the world has a very limited view of it. Its non-linear sense of time and peculiar circumstances enable multiple contexts, providing a fertile environment that has produced many creative individuals who have made their mark felt across the world. Lahore deserves to have an art/cultural event carrying the ambition and scale, that of a biennale.”

105

DESTINATIONSXLB01

“It is my desire that we create something, which generates ideas for the larger discourse in the art world and yet remains relevant to a large number of audiences from Lahore.�

- Rashid Rana

106

As the host city of Pakistan’s first-ever biennale, the largest event of its kind to be held in the country, Lahore will emerge on the global arts scene as a hub of creative expression. Over 30 international artists have been invited starting May 2017 to use the city as a medium and conduct projects within the city that will culminate in a grand exhibition. These artists will seek to collaborate with local and international organizations that are an organic fit to their conceived projects, which will not be limited to paintings and sculptures but can address social, environmental, educational, food, shopping, health, music and economic related topics etc.

LB01, by creating interactions between the local and global art scenes and initiating dialogues between audiences of various disciplines, will contribute greatly to the cultural infrastructure of its location, both the host city Lahore and its ambient region.

107

ART SPEAKS

Art knows no boundaries.

And the accolades that artists from Pakistan are receiving on the global stage are illustrative of the fact that cultural, social and geographical differences have little to do with how art is appreciated.

DESTINATIONS presents five masters of contemporary Pakistani art who have made headlines, both in their country and abroad, for their groundbreaking works in recent months.

108

Khadim Ali

Pakistani-born artist Khadim Ali’s latest painting stretches some 15 metres across the foyer wall of one of Australia’s top galleries, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sydney. Titled The Arrival of the Demons (2017), the mural commission depicts the fate of asylum seekers and the prejudices they face. Ali is no stranger to prejudice himself – his family, members of the Hazara community, escaped persecution in Afghanistan and settled in Quetta where Ali was born. He fled to Iran at the age of 18 but two years later, was deported back to Pakistan. He found himself destitute in Lahore, until a scholarship at the National College of Arts changed his destiny.

109

ART SPEAKS

Shahzia Sikander

Internationally renowned miniature artist Shahzia Sikander has created two site-specific works for the newly renovated Economics Department at Princeton University. Sikander’s spectacular, sprawling sixty-six-foot mosaic titled Ecstasy as Sublime, Heart as Vector and twenty-five-foot luminous multilayered glass painting Quintuplet Effect join the Princeton University Art Museum’s collection, one of the most significant public art collections in the United States, including masterworks by 48 major artists, such as Alexander Calder, Michele Oka Doner, Frank Gehry, Gaston Lachaise, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, George Segal, Richard Serra, David Smith and Tony Smith.

110

Rashid Rana Acclaimed artist Rashid Rana was one of the four “game changing” artists recently honoured with the Asia Society’s 2017 Asia Arts Awards, which took place on 23rd March in Hong Kong. Rana, the artistic director of the inaugural Lahore Biennale, received his award onstage from Amna Naqvi of AAN Foundation to a roomful of art luminaries, after a live auction led by Jonathan Stone, chairperson of Asian Art at Christie’s.

111

ART SPEAKS

Imran Qureshi & Aisha Khalid Imran Qureshi and Aisha Khalid, hailed internationally as two of Pakistan’s foremost and most prominent contemporary artists, displayed their latest works at an exhibition titled Two Wings to Fly, Not One at the Pakistan National Council of Arts (PNCA) in Islamabad. Organized

by Foundation Art Divvy and curated by Zahra Khan, the show explores Pakistan’s varying narratives – political, social and historical – all of which run through the artists’ perceptive pieces. Iconic designer Christian Louboutin flew in especially for the occasion and was hosted by the power couple of Pakistan’s art world in both Islamabad and Lahore.

The exhibition is on view till 31st May 2017.

112

TRAVELISTA

TULUM &

The Art Of

TRAVEL

By Momina Aijazuddin Saeed

By experiencing other cultures, countries and settings, we have a better chance of discovering our true selves. Momina Aijazuddin Saeed makes a trip to Tulum, Mexico and is inspired by its pristine sand beaches, ancient Mayan ruins and the magical, mystical underwater caves.

117

TRAVELISTA

I

have often found that travel is a wonderful way of relieving stress – especially by escaping to the hills or the sea. Mountains and oceans remind us of our insignificance relative to the planet. Do our daily trials and tribulations and the stresses of modern life matter to ageless granite or the never-ending waves?

Alain de Botton, the British philosopher, in his wonderful book The Art of Travel, analyzes why people travel. De Botton has written a number of books which are at once provocative yet make his philosophy accessible to modern readers. He questions for example why people, particularly creative souls, like to travel. There is the pleasure of anticipation: the planning, the research, the sharing of ideas and experiences that goes with it. For some, there is the allure of the exotic. British explorers in India in the 18th century succumbed to that. Then, there is the heightening of one’s sense of observation.

You are stimulated by different surroundings and opportunities. And of course, through social media, one can now travel through a world of virtual reality.

I travelled vicariously when I enjoyed Rome and Florence through an architect friend’s visual tour of these cities, or participated in a family wedding in Pakistan through the eyes of an expatriate friend who documented it in technicolour detail.

Whatever may be the inherent attractions of different locales, ultimately it is your personality that determines your travel preferences. According to modern research, some people draw energy from others. Extroverts prefer holidaying on crowded beaches; introverts prefer mountains and the hills.

I compromise. I prefer mountainous settings which also face the sea – places like Rio, Bali, Langkawi and most recently Tulum along the Riviera Maya coast of Mexico.

No one can knock the Caribbean with impunity. Yet, there are other beaches that are as alluring. To my surprise, the beaches along the Riviera Maya coast of Mexico in reality were even better than the pictureperfect postcard views of them; azure blue skies, pristine clear water, and a soothing silence. The sea was never green or blue or turquoise or aquamarine.

It was all of them depending on how the waves caught the sun.

118

I had heard about Tulum from many discerning friends who preferred the understated luxury and zen vibes rather than the group, all-inclusive family resorts which cater to American families seeking sun ‘n’ sand near Cancun.

It is no wonder that so many jaded minds and aching bodies flee there, far away from their hectic business lives in Europe and America.

Many stay to open beach-style restaurants which serve organic fresh fish and spicy hot salsa verde, or manage yoga sanctuaries where visitors can meditate. On the beach, you can have your worries massaged away by coconut oil made fresh from the trees that shade the beaches. Tulum is regarded as the food and yoga capital of Mexico and with good reason.

One wanders into Ibiza-style open beach bars with amazing music where women with body art and Missoni bikinis sway alongside prematurely hip young toddler boys with shoulder length hair.

“Mama, I feel like we are in Vogue magazine,” my twelve-year-old commented. Unfortunately, neither of us dared wearing, let alone be photographed in, Missoni bikinis, preferring to cover ourselves with our voluminous beach towels.

The sea was never green or blue or turquoise or aquamarine. It was all of them depending on how the waves caught the sun.

119

TRAVELISTA

Spending time in this paradise made me wonder why one ever lives in a city. Ubud in Bali had the same zen-like quality to it before it was publicized

by Elizabeth Gilbert’s hugely popular Eat, Pray and Love. The last time I visited Ubud, the cafes there were full of middleaged American solo travellers, scribbling in their journals furiously.

Writing, rather than experiencing. It’s like the tourists who photograph the Sistine Chapel ceiling on their mobiles rather than admiring it with their naked eyes.

There is a mystical quality and the experience and mindset of a vacation that is so different from observing our everyday lives. Apart from the freedom to do what you want – as opposed to daily life where one has to do certain things – it is also the happy space that Botton outlines as the difference between ‘the melancholic self’ that one is at home and ‘the person one can become on a beach island’. Taking a cue from his philosophy, I became an adventurer going well beyond my zone of comfort by climbing Mayan pyramids (despite a fear of heights) and snorkelling among turtles and fish nipping at one’s toes (despite an even deeper distaste for creatures under water).

Beyond the beaches are the cenotes or underwater cave systems in Mexico which are quite unique.

These are large underwater reserves of clear rivers flowing towards the sea but trapped into lakes by layers of limestone stalactites and stalagmites.

One can swim through these wells that have caves swarming with bats flying overhead, among fresh fish and an occasional

120

turtle. There are different cenotes ranging in size but breathtaking in their scale, where divers can explore water caves and caverns. The word ‘cenote’ comes from the Yucatan Mayan language which refers to any place with accessible underground water.

Wildlife such as turtles and iguanas wander freely in these natural springs.

Compared to most civilizations, the Mayans had a sophisticated knowledge of mathematics and devised the first solar calendar and the concept of zero, and the models of clay showing this are sold to this date alongside colourful pottery of exquisite colours and shapes.

Equally impressive are the Tulum ruins which are located on a beautiful setting with a secluded private beach. Mayans, particularly the priests, used this as a retreat and could survey the calm waters of the Caribbean from the silent security of the 180-meter cliffs that protected them. Similarly, the jungle ruins at Coba, towering almost 100 meters of pyramid overlooking the jungle, offered an insight into the lives of the Mayans.

These ruins, though grey blocks that have weathered time, are important as they unleash one’s creativity and imagination of how people lived at that time.

We discussed at length how Tulum must have looked five hundred years ago and this allowed us to see Mexican history from another perspective.

Thinking back on this trip, it was interesting to see how each member of my own little tribe reacted during these excursions and what we brought away. For my daughter, the warm avacado salsas and fresh water pools with fish nibbling at our toes was amazing. For my hip seven-year-old son, it was the endless hours of play on the beach and getting his face painted, which ended up on the beach club’s website. For me, it was the discovery of a fantastic little café called Namaste where one could drink exotic teas and paint on canvases.

We exchanged teas with the beautiful owners – leaving behind our Lipton blend in exchange for Mexican concoctions.

And so, towards the end of our trip, we were all of the same mind that by experiencing another culture, country and setting, we were discovering more about our true selves; that we relaxed while painting using water colours and swimming, that there is nothing better than a good book and that it really is magical to see the night stars while on a beach while listening to the waves.

Travel is more than an art. It is a religion without a clergy. It is an opportunity to understand why it took God six days to create such a beautiful, diverse, exciting world, and why he must have chosen the beaches of Riviera Maya in Mexico to rest on the seventh.

For my hip seven-year-old son, it was the endless hours of play on the beach and getting his face painted, which ended up on the beach club’s website

121

REFLECTIONS

The

AUSTRALASIAN

SAGA:

A

JOURNEY of homecomings

By Tammy Bux

Traversing continents and cultures, this is the tale of the Bux family from Lahore whose founding father, Khawaja Mohammad Bux, sailed off to Australia in the late 1800s and found a new home for himself and his future generations in the far away city of Perth. His greatgranddaughter Madiha Bux chronicles this fascinating tale exclusively for DESTINATIONS as she narrates the story of these early Pakistani (formerly British Indian) settlers who made their mark in a foreign land without losing sight of their identity. She also weaves in a personal account of her own journey back to her ancestral homeland as she looks back at time spent in Pakistan with great fondness.

123

“T REFLECTIONS

he most enduring legacies are born of the most colourful lives.” Faberge It was 1882. The young traveller paused to watch as the familiar land of the Mughals receded into the distance. He was on a steamship bound for the remote and rugged shores of Australia in search of his fortune. Alighting at the port of Fremantle with only his sharp business acumen and a few rupees in hand, he quickly rose to prominence as an accomplished entrepreneur. By the end of the century, he was a renowned property mogul and international merchant integral in charting out early trade routes between Australia and Asia.

This remarkable young man, Khawaja Mohammad Bux, was my great-grandfather.

My childhood in Australia was filled with fascinating tales of my great-grandfather’s many escapades.

His autobiography is one of the few documented accounts of early Muslim settlers in Western Australia and provides a unique and often whimsical memoir of his adventurous and charmed life.

Describing himself as the musafir (the sojourner), he had run away from home at the age of 16, driven by an unbridled urge to explore the world around him. A born risk-taker, his wanderlust led him to travel extensively across the former British India and Europe before he realized his dream to go to Australia – the country with gold mines, the Lucky Country. He arrived with negligible financial resources to his name. By 1898, through sheer will and tenacity he was described in The West Australian newspaper as a “leading man among the Asiatic residents of the city.”

Ahead of his time in many ways, he was one of only a handful of Pakistani entrepreneurs who had successful business interests across the globe, traversing two very different worlds with ease.

In Lahore the family residence was aptly named Australia Building and the clan were fondly known as the ‘Australia-wallas.’ Remaining loyal to his faith, he took great pride in financing the construction of the Australia Masjid in the early 1900s, which is still located on McLeod Road in Lahore. He was also the co-founder of the Perth Mosque. Prior to its construction, he would pray on the shores of the Swan River, facing west towards his beloved Indian Ocean.

124

Property holdings in Perth and Pakistan allowed successive generations of my family to move back and forth between the two destinations. My grandfather, Khawaja Amir Bux, was born in Perth in 1903 and continued the family’s business links, travelling frequently between both countries. My grand-uncle, Khawaja Bashir Bux, chose to settle in Lahore and true to his father’s legacy he saw an opportunity to begin a business venture and opened Australasia Bank in 1942. It was the only fully functional bank at the time of Pakistan’s creation in August 1947 and has since been acquired by Allied Bank.

My father, Khawaja Sadiq Amir Bux, was born in Lahore in 1930 and went back to Perth as a student to study at the University of Western Australia. He was one of the earliest pioneers in the halal meat industry, and had a thriving export business servicing South East Asia and the Middle East. Before he passed away in 2010, he received an award from the Australian Meat Industry Council “in recognition of his unwavering contribution, leadership and understanding in support of the halal red meat industry in Australia over five decades.”

125

REFLECTIONS

Perth skyline by night

Point Picquet, Eagle Bay, on the south coast of Western Australia, 2014

126

Kalbarri National Park, Western Australia, 2014

Photography: Shahid

REFLECTIONS

Dedication of artwork to Sadiq and Salma Bux, August 1975

Sadequain calligraphy on cowhide gifted to Sadiq and Salma Bux, August 1975

It’s a privilege to call two different worlds home and be comfortable in both. I am an Aussie born and bred, and at the same time I have a palpable sense of the Pakistani blood coursing through my veins.

I revel in all the various facets of my identity as a French-speaking Pakistani-Australian Muslim.

My father was a larger-than-life character with a kind and generous heart. He was also an active After completing a degree in French language patron of the arts sponsoring major Pakistani and literature, I spent an unforgettable year on artists such as the maestro Mehdi Hasan and scholarship in the picture-perfect Loire Valley town the legendary painter Sadeqain on their visits to of Tours. I was teaching conversational English to Australia. He was passionate about ghazals along a group of high school students only a few years with Urdu and Punjabi poetry and when the music my junior and made some close friendships during started he was the first one to get up and dance. my stay. I did, however, get homesick, especially Remembered by his many friends as faced with the unending a gregarious grey, snow-filled winter days. soul, he had It was then that I decided the gift of the to spread my wings even gab in several further and go live and work languages. I in Pakistan. am proud that I have a lot When I arrived in Karachi of my father in January 1992, I was in me. I love greeted with the same to dance, am sights and sounds to multilingual which I had become and am an accustomed, having spent extrovert ready every Christmas holiday to strike up a in Pakistan since I was , 1990 larship year in Paris ho sc r conversation a child. However, when he g rin du x Tammy Bu with anyone I started working at the I meet. customer service desk at American Express, nothing seemed familiar to me.

My life has been a series of homecomings and I Pakistani office culture took some getting used to feel fortunate to have cultivated strong roots in and although I could understand Urdu, my spoken different places. So when over ninety years later, I ability was abysmal. I would stumble and make retraced the return passage from Terra Australis to mistakes and felt completely out of my depth. In a the land of my forefathers as a child on my family’s short space of time however, my confidence grew first holiday to Pakistan, it was a homecoming of and I realised Urdu grammar followed many of the another kind. same rules as French.

We landed in Karachi on a deceptively peaceful summer’s afternoon. On the drive home, I was completely mesmerized with the exotic sights and sounds I encountered along the way. I had finally arrived in the place to which I had so often travelled in my imagination and it felt like home.

128

My love of all things French was the deciding factor when I switched over to work at Société Générale Bank a year later. I was taken under the wing of my mentor and friend Mrs. Ishrat Abid who had been instrumental in the French bank’s establishment in Pakistan.

Tammy Bux hosting a Societe Generale Bank event at the Marriott Hotel Karachi, 2002

Karachi at that time was a dizzying whirlwind of weddings, dance parties and charity balls. The social life was so intense that I often flitted between three to four events each night. In those days Karachi seemed like the desi equivalent of Beverly Hills in the throes of awards season. I had made lots of friends and was surrounded by a large and loving family, so eventually Karachi had started to feel like home.

I lived there until the summer of 2002 after which I decided it was time to move back to the country of my birth. I craved the sanity and slower pace of my hometown.

iq Bux at a x and Sad 8 Tammy Bu Perth, 200 bration in family cele

Professor Samina Yasmeen, Director of the Centre for Muslim States and Societies at the University of Western Australia, hosted a memorial event on the first anniversary of Sadiq Bux’s passing, November 2011.

However, I look back at my time in Pakistan with fond memories and the lasting impact of the boundless love and affection I received from my extended family and friends. Whether it was the warm embrace of the matriarchs who would scold and spoil in equal measure, or the multitude of cousins and friends with whom I would spend every waking moment, it was a homecoming like no other. These people were so much like me and yet different. It was as though my heart were reflected in a myriad of multi-faceted gemstones, each one shining more brilliantly than the next. These were my people, this was my tribe, I had arrived in the truest sense of the word and my life would never be the same again.

My family have spent many years researching our great-grandfather’s legacy with the support of Professor Samina Yasmin from the University of Western Australia. Our heritage has spanned several continents, an enormous and varied extended family and remained deeply rooted in the culture and traditions of our Islamic culture.

Knowing who you are is so inextricably linked to knowing where you came from. It is important to hear and retell the stories of the past, of one’s ancestors and the amazing times in which they lived. We must cherish our family narratives and the nuggets of wisdom passed down for the benefit of the generations to follow. We must pledge to keep telling those stories so that the lives and loves of our forebears continue to endure beyond the physical constraints of time and space, never to be forgotten.

129

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

130

Puglia, Italy A guide to enjoying the rustic charm and rich history of Puglia, a quintessential Italian coastal region, when travelling as a family.

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

W

hile Italy’s north remains a magnet for tourists, boasting popular destinations such as Milan, Verona, Cinque Terra and Venice, the more secluded south makes for an equally compelling holiday, as recently discovered by London-based Sania Broad, parttime nutritional therapist and full-time mother of 4 children ranging in ages from 9 to 19 years. Sania, along with her husband James and three younger children, recently vacationed in Puglia, a picturesque region in the heel of Italy’s boot, characterized by ancient sites, baroque architecture, olive trees and whitewashed towns. Here she shares her tips for enjoying the rustic charm and rich history of this quintessential Italian coastal area when travelling as a family.

Why Puglia, Italy?

We like to discover new places so even though we have loved our previous destinations we rarely visit a place twice. There’s just too much to see and discover! Since I plan our family vacations, I was keen for us to visit somewhere relatively untapped and un-touristy but where we did not feel too alien.

I was reliably informed by my Italian friends (there are many settled Europeans in Richmond, London where we live) that Puglia was the ‘real Italy’ and it did not disappoint.

This is a beautiful region characterized by the charming ‘trulli’ – stone houses with conical roofs – quite other-worldly, fairy-tale structures. These are set amongst a landscape of rich red earth, dry stone walls, lush green grass and a plethora of olive and pine trees. In fact, Puglia is famous for its olive oil and is Italy’s largest producer. In many areas the land is also scattered with wild yellow flowers and red poppies. If you have a car it makes for joyful driving. We were based in a small town called Villa Castelli, close to a larger town Martina Franca which we drove through but didn’t get a chance to visit in any depth.

132

133

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

What’s the best way to get to Puglia, and then to travel within it?

There are two airports in Puglia; Bari and Brindisi.

We flew to Bari from Stansted, UK and picked up a rental car. This was probably our only bad experience of Puglia as we had to wait a good hour and a half to be served.

The driving experience very much depends on what you’re used to. Puglia is pretty relaxed and the pace of driving for us was not too difficult at all.

There are very few hotheaded drivers on the road and I very rarely heard any honking of horns. The motorways (or really just dual carriageways) from one large town to the next are easy to drive on and present miles of beautiful countryside. Driving within the towns was more challenging, as those tiny narrow streets you identify with Italy really do exist and you understand why the Italians drive small cars! I would definitely recommend hiring a car, especially if travelling with family, for without a car we would have found some of the trips more arduous.

Which hotel did you stay at? Would you recommend it to others, especially to families travelling with kids?

We stayed in a traditional trullo located between the two seas, Ionian and Adriatic, that I found on Airbnb. The trullo was very much what we had hoped for, with its traditional features. It had a large field at the back that you could explore and the children could even climb onto the trullo roof. It was exceptionally clean and well prepared for our visit.

The hosts had kindly stocked the fridge with butter, milk and yoghurts and there was a plentiful supply of bread, biscuits, jams and honey, coffee and tea for breakfast. The owner Vito and his wife Lina made sure we had everything we needed and went above and beyond what we expected of them.

It was very child friendly, lots of space to run around and people there do like children so that made it easy! While researching accommodation, we had considered staying at a ‘masseria’ (a working farm), which is another unique way to experience Puglia. There are many dotted around the region which offer the opportunity to stay with a family and eat with them every evening for a true Italian experience. However, we highly recommend Vito and Lina’s trullo.

134

What were your and your children’s first impressions of the city? Is it a kid-friendly place?

Where it lacks in the sophistication one might associate with Italy, Puglia more than makes up in charm, friendliness and rustic beauty – a term much used for this region but very apt. The Puglianese are clearly proud of their region, positioned in the heel of Italy’s boot, devoting time to its appearance and cleanliness (we regularly saw residents tending their front gardens and generally, the place is spotless). It was the Easter holidays and we were expecting it to be a little busier than normal but it was really very quiet and had a gentle pace.

The children’s first impressions were that it was very pretty. They loved the trullo and the fact that they could climb onto the roof. They loved the food – it was a kid’s paradise with great patisseries, endless gelato shops and of course pizza which is far superior to anything you find in the UK. How do they do that pizza base? The pasta was always fresh and far more dense than the fresh pasta in UK and the kids loved it. They were intrigued by the narrow streets and marvelled at the washing hanging everywhere. They are well-travelled children though so took most things in their stride.

135

A LIFE WORTH LIVING Italians are known to be friendly by nature; did it make the experience of travelling as a family more enjoyable?

The locals were curious when they first encountered us: as a mixed-race family looking suitably touristy we do stand out, but people were very friendly and more than happy to assist us. There is very little, often no English spoken and we speak no Italian. However, we managed to get by with lots of gesticulating, nodding and shaking of heads, James’ pigeon French and the Collins English/Italian dictionary! The locals have a very relaxed attitude, quite different to the often frenetic London life we lead. They are very child-friendly and loved the ‘bambinos’ as they called them.

Italy and especially Puglia, is known for its fantastic food.

What are some of the local specialties that you enjoyed?

Any restaurant recommendations?

We did a mix of eating out and cooking at home. We enjoyed Cibus in Ceglie and also Martinucci in Gallipoli.

We loved the snack bars and patisseries in Lecce. We shopped in a local supermarket and bought bread, pasta, cheese, salad, fish and fruit and made a packed lunch on a couple of the days out when we left later than intended so we were guaranteed something to eat (in case restaurants were closed for lunch). We snacked on a biscuit called Taralli which can be sweet or savoury and is common in this region.

What’s the trick to packing smart when travelling as a family?

Layers! When you can’t guarantee the weather, then lots of layers. Take raincoats and trainers but also sun hats and sun cream! In addition to their clothes, the kids each have a small rucksack which they carry themselves with things to entertain them. I always make sure they have 2 books each (they are complete book worms), pens and drawing pads and anything else they can fit in and and we will take an i-Pad, a pack of cards and a couple of small games such as chess that we can play as a family. I pack enough clothes so that I only have to do one load of washing when I’m there.

Travel

Tips

Try not to do too much. I’m always filling the agenda too heavily and sometimes the holiday can feel like a tick box exercise.

It’s good to do your research before you travel (you never know how reliable internet connection will be).

I always try to plan the journey and a rough schedule the night before so it’s a more relaxing following day.

Plan for wet weather too (for example, we did the caves on an afternoon it was going to rain).

In Puglia, everything closes down in the middle of the day for siesta so there’s no point arriving at a destination at midday as it will be closed and you might even struggle to find somewhere to eat.

It is also good to have a couple of days where nothing is planned and you can just chill.

136

137

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

Puglia in a Week Our family’s top things to see and do

Tuesday – Visited the local town (Villa Castelli) by foot 20 minutes away. A pretty place with a main square where we had a late lunch. It was colder than we had expected with some scattered showers.

Wednesday – Drove to the picturesque trulli village of Alberobello. This is a tourist hot spot but even then, it was not too busy in April. It’s an enchanting sort of land of the hobbit, or a Star Wars village perhaps. A morning here is enough time. Then drove onto Castellano Grotte – stunning caves which were discovered in the 1930s and are a key natural heritage site in Puglia. Drove back and had dinner at local pizza place in Villa Castelli - excellent pizza!

Thursday – Visited Lecce (roughly a 70-minute drive).

It’s a city of baroque architecture known as the Florence of the South with a cathedral, amphitheater and lots of great walking sites. One of our favourite things of the day was stopping at random cafés and eateries and snacking on the delicious local delicacies on offer which included slices of excellent pizza, patisseries and delicious gelato (even licorice flavour). Drove to Gallipoli (another 20 minutes’ drive) on the west coast by the Ionian Sea, for the second half of the day. Stopped at the beach, the port and fish market, strolled around the old town and visited the 13th-century fort.

138

Friday – visited a few of Puglia’s prettiest towns. Started with Ostuni, known as the white city, awash with white-ish buildings. Then onto Cisternino and finally Locorotondo. All pretty towns with beautiful churches, where it’s easy to amble around leisurely on a fine day.

Saturday – Drove to Otranto, a port on the Adriatic Sea on the most eastern point in Italy. It’s beautiful there. Our first stop was the cathedral which has a huge original mosaic covering most of its floor. The cathedral’s chapel has another site worth seeing – a glass case filled with 800 human skulls. The story goes that these 800 locals barricaded themselves into the chapel to protest against the conversion to Islam from invading Turks who had crossed the Adriatic in a full-scale attack. We visited the castle/fort, with an excursion into the underground caves. After a lunch of fresh locally-caught fish at a seaside restaurant, we took a lovely walk along the coastline to the lighthouse signifying Italy’s most eastern point.

Sunday – Our last full day in Puglia and we had planned to visit Polignane A Mare – a picturesque seaside town recommended by many people. However, the kids were tired and James needed a day off from his heavy driving schedule so we decided to hang out locally. Vito, our Airbnb host, had kindly offered to take us to see a local ancient olive grove so we took him up on the offer.

He also took us to a local farmhouse where they made cheese and yoghurt.

Monday - we left Villa Castelli for a few days on the Amalfi coast ( a long 5-hour drive), stopping enroute in Matera (just outside the Puglia border) for a few hours. This is a stunning area of historic cave dwellings which were inhabited by the poor as recently as the 1950s.

The kids had a map of the town and enjoyed orienteering around the narrow streets to find vantage points for great views of the ‘sassi’ (district). We visited a cave dwelling as it was when it was vacated (the government rehoused everyone in new buildings) and saw how people lived together with their horses and other livestock.

139

VISIONARY

140

#BrandPakistan

Berlin CONNECTION The

By Hassan Tahir Latif

Brand Pakistan was recently celebrated by the Pakistani embassy in Berlin, with a fashion event showcasing the best of Pakistani style. A city that has a rich history of defiance, resilience and avant-garde style, the German capital served as the perfect setting to highlight a side of Pakistan not often seen in the international arena.

VISIONARY

F

ashion is an art that has always played a pivotal role in establishing cultural identity – a fact that Pakistani brands have embraced wholeheartedly. Our couturiers and textile houses regularly showcase in the leading fashion centres of the world, from New York to London to Dubai. While these events have been crucial to the promulgation of our aesthetic and craft, the recent rise of international fashion houses emulating traditional Pakistani craft in their collections mandates a heavier presence of Pakistani design on the global stage.

Moschino’s Resort 2017 collection that embedded traditional mirror-work and truck art, Chanel’s resort collections with their kurta style tops, the infamous Paul Smith Peshawari chappal and the ajrak patterns worn by many proponents of boho-chic are a clear indication of the untapped potential for our design houses. These consumer preferences, combined with the debate on cultural appropriation, have carved a unique space for our design houses internationally.

Jauhar Saleem, H.E. Ambassador of Pakistan and Elyes Kasri, Ambassador of Tunisia

In this vein of thought, a group of distinguished Pakistanis both expatriates and residents came together in Berlin with the prime reason of firmly establishing Brand Pakistan. The Ambassador of Pakistan in Germany His Excellency Jauhar Saleem, Madame Zara Jauhar and the Embassy of Pakistan celebrated Pakistan Day with a fashion event at the Maritim Hotel in Berlin. Conceptualized by Zahir Rahimtoola, the event had models sashaying down the runway bedecked in ‘Zamrud’, a jewellery collection by Sherezad Rahimtoola and draped in Élan’s ‘Bejewelled’ collection, as the melodious voice of Zeb Bangash serenaded the audience.

This collaborative effort was managed and choreographed by Sadia Siddiqui and her team at Mustang Productions.

This grand endeavour to break the existing conceptions of Pakistan through art and culture resonate with the tumultuous history of Berlin.

142

Zara Jauhar with the models

Khadijah Shah

Music performance by Zeb Bangash

Zara Jauhar

Sadia Siddiqui, Khadijah Shah and Sherezad Rahimtoola

Zahir Rahimtoola

143

VISIONARY

144

The German capital has a rich history of defiance, resilience and overcoming oppression – a quality that is shared by Pakistanis both home and abroad who, despite obstacles, are constantly engaged in elevating the country’s perception. It only seemed natural that an event of such scale took place in a city that survived against all odds. Berliners are phoenixes who have risen from the ashes after the atrocious Nazi and Soviet regimes, until their ultimate victory that came with the fall of the Berlin Wall.

The rebellions of Berlin’s inhabitants against their oppressors have led to a thriving underground art and culture movement. Unrestricted, wild and vibrant artistic expression, despite two regimes’ efforts to quench it, has become synonymous with the city’s image. To this day, art and fashion are major components of Berlin’s signature, with international events such as Berlinale, Berlin Fashion Week and the innumerable art exhibits and rave circuits taking place on a regular basis.

Walking from one quarter of the city to another, a keen observer can notice a subtle shift; from the posh townhouses of Charlottenburg to the creative chaos of Mitte and the counterculture of FriederichshainKreuzberg, the city blends its diversity seamlessly.

What remains consistent throughout is an avantgarde, urban street style that Berliners pride themselves on.

As the world focused on the usual suspects of fashion, Berlin quietly developed a fashion sensibility of its own that now takes centre stage in fashion editorials and street style features. Berliners are not afraid to experiment with their looks; their fashion sensibilities have evolved over time to reflect the ever-changing ethos of the city. Loud psychedelic colours from the ‘90s celebrating the renowned Berlin rave culture have now given way to a cleaner, yet fresh, all-encompassing style that is emblematic of the hordes of young urbanites flocking to Berlin from all corners of the globe for its entrepreneurial opportunities. This aspect of the city is certainly not lost on the bigger brands, such as H&M and Zara, which often cater to Berliners with designs that are not available in other stores across Germany. The numerous small ateliers and popup stores that line the streets of Berlin are again symbolic of its resolve to welcome new ideas. Élan’s presentation of traditional designs with a modern aesthetic fit in perfectly. Perhaps it is the city’s past that allows it to be more accepting of outsiders and welcomes alternative perspectives.

This made Berlin the perfect setting to the Brand Pakistan event.

145

WANDERER

HOME BASE

TORONTO

By Sheheryar B. Sheikh

Debut author of the novel The Still Point Of The Turning World (HarperCollins 2017) Sheheryar B. Sheikh has lived in many cities around the world – namely Lahore, NYC and London; but he has decided to finally put roots down in Toronto, a dynamic metropolis that amplifies his love for the arts, culture and story-telling. Interestingly, the city also inspires in him a real nesting instinct. Here he talks about the why and how of it.

Photography: Saniya Rashid

146

Trinity College, University of Toronto

WANDERER

I

t’s the place where a childhood friend has settled down with his wife and two kids. It’s the city with the underground tube station where my wife’s cousin had a Bollywood entanglement – met the love of her life, was annoyed by him at first sight, but came around to embrace their romantic destiny. I have family living there too: an older cousin with the most beautiful voice in the world (Zeb Bangash-level, I kid you not), and her two kids. Desis abound in Toronto. They thrive.

My first time in Toronto, I flew in from my Masters programme at the University of Notre Dame in Indiana. I stayed ten days in the urban centre of the city, near the corner of Bloor and Yonge streets, and one of those days I rode the train into Mississauga to meet my cousin. Since that first visit, I’ve been to Toronto six further times, including transits, and each visit has helped to reinforce the initial set of warm impressions. Like New York, which was my home city for two years, London, which became a base for three years, and Lahore, the city I will always keep returning to, Toronto is fast adding itself to the list of cities that give me peace of mind and a sense of belonging when I visit.

In 2014, I was teaching experimental rhetoric and creative writing courses at the Lahore University of Management Sciences when I got accepted into a PhD program in Canada. Now in my third year in the doctorate on apocalyptic narratives in contemporary fiction, I have travelled a fair bit in the country, and my small city, Saskatoon, has become a kind of resting place. But I have experienced the drumbeat of Mall Road and the insomnia of Manhattan. My soul connects with the rhythm of bigger cities – their rush and flow of human traffic has become the pulse of my soul. Saskatoon, this city of under three hundred thousand, is not where I completely belong. I know this. This transit stop is just another dot connecting my journey to the heart of big-city Canada.

148

Speaking of connections: Lahore, Islamabad, and Karachi all boast direct PIA flights to Toronto.

Pakistan clicks with this city. Each of those flights is over thirteen hours in length, so be cautioned that they are only for those who can brave a passage through purgatory. I recommend considering the alternatives: take the indirect Etihad or Emirates air-routes to arrive at the doorstep of a North America the way it was always meant to be: friendly, courteous, open, and accommodating. Immigration at Toronto’s Pearson Airport is a breeze if your documents are in order. Welcome. Indeed, welcome!

What’s on offer? Inclusion is the word that comes to mind. Canadians are supremely friendly – enough to make you do a double-take initially, as if sarcasm may be sub-textually included in the multiple times you hear ‘thank you’ and ‘sorry’. People make time to banter, and conversations can tick on longer than mere transactions even in the shops along the main thoroughfares. For those who love to shoot the breeze as they go about their daily commerce, here’s Toronto calling your name in multiple languages.

UC Entrance

University College

WANDERER

Those who like to make the most of their travels will be pleased with the massive amount of options. As a cultural hub, Toronto offers: the multiple exhibits in the Royal Ontario Museum (don’t miss the exhibit on birds); performances by orchestras and mainstream and indie bands in concert halls and jazz bars; movie star sightings from downtown film-sets; stand-up comedy of every quality; offbeat story-telling and exhibition events and venues; any cuisine you can name in a range of prices (I especially recommend Bloor Street Sushi, Sukothai, and Burgernator); movie theatres and book shops, and open-air bazaars such as the Kensington Market with its pedestrian Sundays.

Two premier annual events are of particular interest to me as a storyteller: The International Festival of Authors, and the Toronto Film Festival. This year, I intend to make an artistic pilgrimage to both these events.

promising activity), massive farmer’s markets, and exploratory walks through Chinatown. How alluring it all sounds while typing it out within a single paragraph. But, be assured that each of these activities can take a good chunk of the day, or even more time, and so plans must be made accordingly.

Two premier annual events are of particular interest to me as a story-teller: The International Festival of Authors, and the Toronto Film Festival.

And this is just the tip of the iceberg, of course. To list out everything available on any given date in Toronto is impossible without making a directory of this article. But here’s a quick glimpse of some more participatory activities: culinary classes, yoga sessions, pottery-making lessons and clubs, outdoor art fairs, axethrowing get-togethers (I have yet to try this

Royal Ontario Museum

And what’s the difference between Toronto and other multicultural cities in the West? For one thing, the city is not hyper-conscious of itself. It is ‘chilled-out’ and doesn’t invoke its own history or tout its importance as the centre of anything. In that regard, it is more like an understated European city rather than a North American one like New York, Chicago, or even Montreal. Berlin comes to mind when thinking about Toronto. So does Amsterdam. Those cities have the vibe that Toronto has picked up over the years.

Speaking of positive vibes, Prime Minister Justin Trudeau has been a model of Canadian hospitality. He has personified the best that Canada can offer to citizens from less fortunate countries. News agencies from around the world witnessed Trudeau at Pearson Airport, welcoming with hugs and jackets the Syrian refugees who fled warzones to find safe homes in strange lands. Canada, through the doorway of Toronto, has shown the world how to treat people equally, which is perhaps the main reason I was able to feel at home halfway across the world from my original one.

GO Transit Station

151

WANDERER

This winter, PM Trudeau was touring the country and conducting town hall meetings – essentially, taking questions directly from his citizens. I was in the meeting that he conducted in Saskatoon. I wanted to ask two very oppositely charged questions. One was a serious one, about immigration and citizenship reform; the other question I had in mind was a frivolous one, but one that could have brought up a laugh and eased any tension created by my first question. I was going to ask those questions back to back, and I raised my hand to do so. The problem was, that when the prime minister’s gaze locked onto me, and just as he was about to ask what my question for him was, I forgot the serious query, and all I could think of was my second question: “What’s your workout schedule?”

Anyone who knows a thing about prime ministers, presidents, and monarchs knows that they are usually very unfit people (Obama being a recent exception). Justin Trudeau has broken the mould on that commonality, and is known for his extraordinary bouts of fitness (amateur boxing and hand stands are a cinch for the fella!). Because I’d forgotten the more important question, had Trudeau stayed locked onto me, and forced me to speak, the only question I could have asked would have been about his fitness regime. In the next instance, his gaze shifted away from me and he re-engaged with another raised hand. Thank God! I’m so glad I’m not caught on video asking a country’s leader a completely flippant question.

Gerstein Library

The Greater Toronto Area is massive in its sprawl, and accommodating in its embrace of the foreigner.

But that’s the thing about Canada. Justin Trudeau brought big-city Canada to Saskatoon for a day, and it was fun and comfortable. I was in the fourth row, a few meters away from him, while he spoke to three hundred people in a large classroom, and it was a rather cosy gathering.

It becomes easy to forget how openhearted Canadians and their leaders are. They believe in their ‘Welcome to Canada’, and say it just as meaningfully as Pakistanis offer their renowned hospitality to foreigners. For those in the desi diaspora searching for a ‘home’ after the meaning of that word has slipped out of the cracks in the fabric of contemporary civilization, Toronto, as the representative centre of Canadian cosmopolitanism, offers a non-judgmental, supportive space-an initiation into Canada. The Greater Toronto Area is massive in its sprawl, and accommodating in its embrace of the foreigner. I know desis who are artists, business people, investment workers, and, sure, they struggled a lot initially, but eventually they thrived by persevering and embracing the hard work and leisure that come in alternating beats in the flow of life in Canada’s most friendly city – a much more mellow and humanly sustainable form of the hard-work-hard-play of corporate Manhattan.

For future-minded settlers, Toronto is a clean city for raising kids: with its access to all the amenities of the developed world, its safe and healthy atmosphere, its nurturing environment for a variety of interests, and its booming suburbs that cater to those who like access to a thriving downtown without being smothered by it.

Many Pakistanis when they immigrate to Canada move directly to Mississauga or one of the other suburban neighborhoods within the Greater Toronto Area, and build ties to the main city through work or business, or through their kids’ activities.

The suburbs have become fully equipped with malls, and halal food joints outnumber the other kind. Out in some regions it’s difficult to not see a desi face. This is potentially a great thing, as the South Asian community is quite thoroughly assimilated by now within the fabric of the city and its framework.

The Canadian project of making an inclusive country is self-evident in the microcosm of Toronto.

Pakistanis find easy homes in its competitive but not back-breaking work environment. I moved to Canada to eventually move to the Canadian East Coast. The triangle of Montreal, Ottawa, and Toronto makes this side of the country an ideal location – coastal environment, facilities that work, and plenty of challenging job opportunities for academics.

I have friends and family there, and I have a feeling – born from career aspirations as an academic, and hopes and wishes that my kids will know and care about a city as well as I knew and loved Lahore when I was growing up – that the city of Toronto will become home for me and my wife very soon. I’m looking forward to it.

153 Yonge-Dundas Square

154

O Since its two decades of operations, the Korean company, Daewoo Express, has evolved into an industry stalwart, providing around 10 million Pakistanis annually with transport services across the country, touching more than 60 cities and plying on all major highways and motorways of Pakistan. As a tribute to the company that makes it so easy for us to discover the best of Pakistan, we present a travel guide to its home country, urging you to take a trip to uncover the heart and soul of Korea – Seoul, its dynamic capital.

WANDERER

O

By Yusra Askari

156

From ancient temples to glitzy malls, quaint teahouses to bustling street markets, picturesque hiking trails to an iconic pop scene, Seoul is a city of fascinating contrasts. On a recent visit to the dynamic Korean capital, journalist Yusra Askari not only witnessed history in the making but had a first-hand encounter with Korean culture and hospitality. She breaks down the best of the city, in an A-Z guide.

157

WANDERER

I

had never quite imagined myself travelling to Korea. But last December, I found myself in Seoul on a whirlwind trip, sub-zero temperatures and all. Visibly reminiscent of a number of other metropolises in the region, the city effortlessly combines the best of both worlds. In a comfortable marriage of the old and new that weaves its social fabric, Seoul is fashion-forward and technologysavvy yet deeply rooted in tradition and culture. From immaculately maintained historical sites to swanky new shopping malls within a square mile radius of each other, holding their own, the city has it all.

The weekend I spent in Seoul, Korea saw history in the making. After weeks of rallies, people power prevailed when the parliament voted to impeach President Park in connection with an influence-peddling scandal, setting the stage for her to become the country’s first elected leader to be expelled from office in disgrace.

Public sentiment rapidly swung from anger to jubilation and the protests morphed into one big street party. Dancing PokÊmons swaying to traditional drum beats and the echo of the gong, alongside ladies dressed in traditional Hanbok with their children in hand, waving flags to mark the day – this parting visual of the city is one I choose to remember it by.

158

a b Asia Society, Korea Centre

A is for the very gracious hosts of the Asia 21 Young Leaders Summit. From arrival to departure, our wonderful 36 hours in Seoul, impeccably planned down to the last detail, would never have been possible without the fantastic folks at the Korea Centre. Thank you, Yvonne, Walter and Jameo. And a big shoutout to the team from New York HQ who made happen it all happen – Tom, Sanjeev, Hee Chung, Kathryn and Morgan, see you guys in Melbourne.

Barbeque

On an icy winter night, well past 11:00pm, we found ourselves strolling to the destination of our last supper in Seoul. Our third dinner of the evening was at Nari’s – one of the most famous and popular barbeque restaurants in the city. Thanks to our hosts, we had missed the long dinnertime queues and endless lines of people waiting to find a table. Keeping it simple, perched on square cushions lined on a cold tiled floor, it was straight down to some serious eating.

What a meal it was – a lavish spread of hearty authentic fare with an array of countless sides, accompaniments, condiments. And be forewarned, the spice levels are clearly not for the faint-hearted.

c

Cosmetics/Skincare

For Koreans, looking good is an obsession. Seoul is in fact the global plastic surgery capital and South Korea has the highest rate of plastic surgery per capita in the world – who would have ever thought! It is therefore no surprise that the country is known for some of the finest cosmetics and skincare products – Etude House, Tony Moly, Innis Free, Skin Food, Touch in SOL, Dr Jart +, Laneige and a host of other globally sought-after brands are all made in Korea.

And do take note; no one visiting Seoul can ever fly home with enough facemasks for friends and family – I brought back almost 50!

159

WANDERER

d e DMZ

The sheer irony of visiting the Demilitarized Zone with a group of South Asians who get along fabulously! Metaphorically much like the Wagah-Attari crossing that draws a line between India and Pakistan, DMZ (as it is more commonly known), separating North and South Korea and dividing the peninsula, was established in 1953 after the war. Its key sites include the Freedom Bridge, 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, Imjingak Park, DMZ Museum and Dora Observatory. A day or half-day tour from Seoul is highly recommended. If time permits, do also try and visit Insadong Antique Street, a mecca of shops, boutiques and teahouses.

Eulji-Ro

Our neck of the woods in Seoul, it is the avenue along which our hotel was located. Central and well connected, anywhere and everywhere we had to go in the city was barely a 5-minute walk or taxi ride away.

160

f

Fried Chicken

When in Seoul, traditional fried chicken is an absolute must-have. On a cold winter evening, post a sit-down inaugural reception, we found ourselves at Memoirs of a Glass in Shinas-Dong. A great hang-out joint for large groups craving a hearty midnight snack after a formal dinner. Not to be missed are the delicious sides – stuffed peppers and stir-fried rice cake with extra spice.

g

Ginseng

Korea’s miracle drug! Ginseng helps you not only recover health but also strengthen the body, calm the mind and boost energy levels – win, win. Be sure to carry home a stash not only for yourself but also friends and family.

h

Hiking

Much like our very own capital, Seoul too is surrounded by some stunning mountainous landscapes that allow one to escape from the madding crowds and hectic city life to soak in some picturesque pockets of wilderness. Namsan, Bukhsan, Dobongsan, Suraksan, Gwanaksan, Cheonggyesan, Buramsan, Bukaksan, Achasan and Inwaangsan – there’s a long list of options to choose from, so take your pick. All are easy-access day trips without leaving the city bounds.

When travelling to Seoul, don’t forget to pack your trekking gear.

i

Incheon International Airport

Despite its size, Asia’s eighth busiest airport, Seoul’s Incheon International, is very easy to manoeuvre around. Even for someone as directionally challenged as myself, getting from the airport to the city was as simple as walking through one of the many automatic glass doors and standing at an inconspicuously demarcated bus stop waiting for and boarding the shuttle that dropped me off right outside the foyer of the hotel I was staying at. And on the way home, some great shopping possibilities and a killer Kimchi Udon made for a perfect farewell to Seoul.

161

j

WANDERER

Jackson’s Blvd

k

Located in the heart of Itaewon, an up and coming popular, multi-cultural district of Seoul, Jackson’s Blvd was where we found ourselves perched atop tall bar stools on our second night in town. Traditional Korean hospitality at its best and a flurry of food coming our way every few minutes. Known for their Chicago style, deep-dish pizza, Jackson’s was a great spot to hang out with friends on an icy Seoul evening. Also on offer, some great chicken wings, onion rings, and a supposedly killer Spaghetti Bolognese. And the non-meat eating me is happy to report, Jackson’s serves the best vegan pizza, ever!

Kimchi No breakfast, lunch or dinner in Korea is complete

without kimchi – a fermented spicy vegetable preserve that will surely spice up any and every meal. Whereas internationally kimchi’s cabbage variant may be one of Korea’s best known exports, locally a variety of vegetables are used to prepare some of the most delicious seasonal concoctions of the Korean staple.

And the likes of me who find themselves hooked can always take home their favourite version, vacuum packed – I have 1 kilo of the two I hand-carried back, sitting in the fridge.

l

Lotte

Brand Lotte is undoubtedly a benchmark of excellence in Korea. From our very comfortable stay at the high-end, Michelin star restaurant-boasting Lotte Hotel Seoul to shopping at the neighbouring Lotte Mall, from buying local snacks to take home at Lotte Mart to watching ‘Operation Chromite’ at one of the many cinema halls at the Lotte World Mall – Lotte here, Lotte there, Lotte everywhere!

162

m Myeong Dong

n

A complex web of by-lanes bedecked in Christmas finery, walking through the streets of Myeong Dong was an absolute sensory treat. Welcoming visitors to this labyrinth, is a central artery leading all the way up the incline, lined with hawkers to where one’s eye can see. Bundled-up vendors trying to keep warm behind carts and kiosks cook up and serve some of the best local fare - bao, spicy lobster tails, cheese butter baked scallops, nutella and banana crepes, meatballs, candy-floss, the options are endless. And interspersed, stalls peddle a variety of goods – from woolies to knockoff’s, from K-Pop merchandise to vacuumpacked dry seaweed you can carry home, there’s something for everyone. Flanking either side of this immense roadside market is an absolute shopper’s paradise – handicraft shops, local designers, international retail chains and stores with some of Korea’s finest products on offer. Every corner of Myeong Dong is an adventure waiting to happen.

Namdaeum Market

Namdaeum is one of the largest and oldest markets in Korea. To me, the appearance and vibe of the souk strikingly mirrored that of Karachi’s Bohri Bazar or Bombay’s Crawford Market – crowded, noisy and buzzing with energy. With endless factory outlets, wholesale retailers and hawkers, the market boasts thousands of shops in old multi-storey buildings coupled with a vibrant sprawl of streetvendor stalls. Whether you’re on the search for inexpensive clothing, houseware, fabrics, accessories, toys, food, flowers, stationery and appliances or just browsing, Namdaeum Market is a mustvisit – even if only to grab a bite or simply people watch.

o Octagon

On our second evening in Seoul, following a long walk in search of taxis to take us from Itaewon to Gangnam, we found ourselves at Club Octagon, the city’s hippest electronica and house underground haunt that is also one of Asia’s 10 Best Nightclubs. When in Seoul, get ready to dance the night away because no parties quite like the Koreans – Oppa Gangnam Style!

163

p

WANDERER

Pop

There is no pop like K- Pop. For the uninitiated, that’s Korean pop. A craze locally, and one of the country’s most popular exports, K-Pop is quite the rage. My first introduction to Korea’s vibrant culture: a portion of bibimbap, a side of mandu and generous dose K-Pop that I arrived to at an inprogress opening reception. I was delayed coming in from the airport but just in time for some topnotch performances by a troupe that brought the house down – what a welcome! And everywhere you turn in Seoul, K-Pop merchandise and collector’s items are impossible to miss.

q r Quirky Korea

Just an example. Blame it on their paranoia of dirty feet, socks are an obsession in Korea, so much so that Seoul has a Socks Street! I kid you not. Quirky is the only word that aptly describes Korea’s vibe – no straight lines and nothing quite fits into a box. Be it catching a film at the 4D cinema in Yongsan, sipping toilet cup lattes at the Poop Café, enjoying selfie-printed drinks at Caface or getting locked into room for fun at The Vault in Hongade only to try escaping it in 45 minutes, it’s all happening in Seoul.

Ramyeon

My love affair with Korean-style instant noodles or ‘ramyeon’ began en route to Seoul. Whenever slightly peckish during the almost 10-hour journey, the inflight kitchen served you a pot of steaming ramyeon with a tub of kimchi and a tube of some killer Korean chilli sauce – delicious! The perfect snack, anytime and all the time. Addicted.

164

s t u Steakhouses

The Bear House undoubtedly made a perfect setting for the opening night of the Asia 21 family’s 3-day stint in Seoul. One of the oldest steakhouses in Korea, located in a forest, boasting some of the most scenic views of the Bugak Mountain Skyway, The Bear House is a lovely, very modern, semi-private restaurant, open to the public only during the daytime. As per locals, a small swimming pool and tennis courts once flanked the steakhouse which made the restaurant a multifunctional gathering spot for families. Known for their delicious cream of mushroom soup, filet mignon and surf and turf, The Bear House certainly makes for a very elegant evening in Seoul.

Tea Korea produces a staggering number of

herbal and fruit infused teas. You’ll find that many of the ingredients used in Korean cuisine are present in their local brews as well. From the 5-flavour tea served during hot summer days to citron tea that is an effective cold remedy, dried jujube tea that relieves a nagging cough and muscle spasms, pine needle tea that reduces blood pressure, green plum tea that improves digestion or the angelica root tea that warms up cold feet, there are a host of options to choose from. Korea also boasts a wonderful array of charming teahouses. A must try is the Seoul landmark, the O’sulloc Tea House where other than teas you’ll find tea cocktails, tea shakes, tea lattes, tea ice-cream and even tea food. And if your schedule permits, do try and make a visit to the Jeju O’sulloc Tea Museum.

Underground Shopping Centres

Underground shopping centres are quite a trend in Seoul. Most often with a mall at one end, train stations across the city house shopping arcades with some of the most interesting and reasonably priced local fare on offer – curios, souvenirs, handicrafts, handbags, K- Pop merchandise, you name it. Most of these shopping centres have cafés and some even boast their own casinos and movie theatres. Our daily stroll around the area led us through Myeong Dong Underground Shopping Centre almost twice if not thrice a day – fun browsing and some great shopping, every visit.

165

WANDERER

v Bukchon Hanok Village

A traditional village in the heart of modern-day Seoul, Bukchon Hanok Village is a snapshot of the days of yore.

Strolling around the quaint and impeccably maintained serene village grounds, one finds themselves transported to a different era.

Not to be missed!

w

War Memorial of Korea

Chronicling Korea’s battle history, the War Memorial has on exhibit weaponry and artifacts associated with the country’s many conflicts. The complex pays tribute to Korea’s martyrs and also brings into focus the nation’s long hostile equation with its immediate neighbours. A visit may not be quite everyone’s cup of tea.

166

x

X-Factor

In my view, Seoul’s X-factor is undoubtedly its unmatched hospitality. Here’s a shout-out to all the very warm and gracious people we as a group met with in Seoul, especially Je and Eddie, the hosts with the most - thank you ever so much, our visit wouldn’t have been the same without you guys!

z

y Youth Cultural Corps

What a pleasure it was being shown around Seoul by two teenagers from Seoul’s Youth Cultural Corps. On a periodic basis, students enrolled in the programme take time off from their school and extra-circular schedules to show tourists around Seoul’s historic sites, free of cost. A great way for a country to familiarize its youth with its history; fantastic to see a people invest in their future.

Zen Hideaway

Located along Rodeo Drive, Apgujeong Dong, the twostoried Zen Hideaway is a fusion restaurant perfect for large groups. Open for both lunch and dinner, the menu boasts an extensive variety of cuisines from Italian to Vietnamese and Thai. A picturesque garden in the centre of the restaurant coupled with the large koi pond makes for a perfect setting on a cold winter evening.

167

THE FASHION FIX

Photography: Dragonfly

169

THE FASHION FIX

Teams HSY, JS Events, Nabila, Talking Point & One Lotus

170

The 16th Lux Style Awards celebrated film, fashion, television and music during a glamorous evening where the country’s leading stars dazzled under one roof. The show was directed by Hassan Sheheryar Yasin, event managed by Jalal Salahuddin Events, with Geo Television as media partners, Talking Point as the official PR company and hair & make-up by Team Nabila.

Imran Aslam, President GEO TV Network

Fareshteh Aslam, CEO Talking Point

Shazia Syed, CEO Unilever

HSY, LSA Show Director

171

THE FASHION FIX

TOP 5 PRODUCTION HIGHLIGHTS

172

1 2 3 4 5

#LSALIVE (live behind-the-scenes coverage) hosted by Waleed Khalid, Cybil J.Chowdry and Mehreen Syed.

Outstanding lighting design.

A majestic automated stage with moving sets.

Slick, well-choreographed performances and smooth onstage transitions.

A warm and welcoming red carpet with a long media wall and a Fashion Squad comprising Momina Sibtain, Maheen Kardar, Zaheer Abbas and Sadaf Zarrar, who scouted the best dressed people.

1 2

3

4 5 173

THE FASHION FIX

TOP 5 ONSTAGE

MOMENTS

174

1 2 3 4 5

Atif Aslam’s terrific opening performance, which included a soulful rendition of the national anthem.

Mahira Khan’s rap with Osman Khalid Butt.

A sword wielding Ali Zafar, setting the stage on fire with his Teefa in Trouble co-star Maya Ali. Abid Brohi, of the super hip The Sibbi Song fame, performing during the fashion segment.

The fashion segment showcasing the best of Pakistani fashion, with the models being serenaded by leading musicians such as Ali Sethi and Zoe Viccaji.

1

2

3

4

5

175

THE FASHION FIX

TOP 5 ICONIC

MOMENTS

176

1

The collective gasp of excitement as Halit Ergenç, who stole many hearts as King Suleiman in the Turkish drama Muhteşem Yüzyıl (Mera Sultan), stepped on stage to accept the International Icon Award.

2

The maestro of style, Tariq Amin, receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award in Fashion.

It was wonderful to read tributes to him by industry icons and contemporary players.

3

Unilever Chairman Shazia Syed presenting the Lifetime Achievement Award to the legendary Tina Sani.

4

Ahsan Khan’s impactful speech on the need for social responsibility, resonated with the audience as he collected his Best Actor (TV Drama) award for Udaari.

5

A surprise appearance by one of the first Lux girls, Reema Khan and her dance performance with Mawra Hocane.

1

2 3

4

5 177

THE FASHION FIX

TOP 5 DESTINATIONS

MOMENTS

178

1

Sanam Saeed, as luxe as ever, winning the Best Supporting Actress award for her role in Dobara Phir Se.

2 3 4

Bilal Ashraf continuing to rise to new heights, as he presented segments on stage.

5

Our perennial favourite Shehla Chatoor receiving the coveted LSA for Achievement in Fashion Design (Luxury Pret).

Sadaf Kanwal being crowned Female Model of the Year had us on our feet.

Waleed Khalid, our inaugural cover star and brand ambassador, made us proud by cohosting the LSA Live show.

1

2 3

5

4

THE FASHION FIX

Team

at LSA

Bilal Ashraf Mariam Mushtaq, Hassan Tahir, Asma Chishty and Zahra Hidayatullah

Mahira Khan

Style Stars

Qurutulain Baloch

Amna Babar

Faraz Manan

180

Hasnain Lehri and Abdullah Haris

Ayesha Fazli and Ali Zafar

Nomi Ansari

Somewhat Super and Abid Brohi Ali Sethi

Tom, HSY, Juju Haider and Amna Bajwa Tariq Amin and Fayeza Amin

Rabia Butt

Rehan Bashir

Nadeem Baig

Ali Xeeshan

Sheheryar Munawar

Mehreen Syed

Khadija Rehman

Mr. and Mrs. Asim Reza

Zara Shahjahan

181

THE FASHION FIX

Kamiar Rokni

Anam Malik

Deepak Perwani

Atiya Khan

Mr. & Mrs. Faisal Qureshi

Tapu Javeri

Momina Mustehsan

Umair Mirza

Yousaf Salahuddin

Giti Ara

182

Faryal Aftab

Momina Duraid

Alyzeh Gabol

Mikaal Zulfiqar Omayr Waqar

Nabila

Saqib Malik

Shehzad Sheikh

Salima Feerasta

Vasay Chaudhry

Nilofer Shahid

Usman Peerzada

Ismail Farid

Muhammad Moiz

Shamaeel Ansari

Kiran Malik

Mohsin Sayeed and Hadia Khan

Uzair Jaswal

Zahra Saifullaah

183

THE FASHION FIX

184

185

THE FASHION FIX

Runway Red Carpet

PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week preceded this year’s Lux Style Awards, giving stars the chance to showcase the trendiest local designs hot off the runway. Other celebrities chose international designers from Beirut to New York. Presenting some of our favourite runway to red carpet moments.

Zara Abid

in Sana Safinaz

Ayesha Omar

186

in Micheal Cinco

Anusheh Shahid in HSY

Sara Atif

in Ali Xeeshan

187

THE FASHION FIX

Safinaz Muneer in Sana Safinaz

Sunita Marshal in HSY

188

Hira Shah

in Shehla Chator

Tooba Siddiqi

in Tena Durrani

189

THE FASHION FIX

Sadaf Kanwal in Ozzi & Osta

Syra Sheroz

in Naeem Khan

190

THE FASHION FIX

TOP TRENDS From the country’s top designer labels to the hottest red carpet looks, a revamped show structure at par with international standards to the season’s definitive hair and make-up trends ruling the ramp, the 10th PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week gave us one fashionable moment after another. Here’s a look at some of the top trends as spotted on the runway.

Photography: Dragonfly Artistic Design: Haseeb Sultan 192

Florals

After the spell of winter, one can count on spring fashion to welcome flower power. Vibrant florals, whether in the form of print or 3-D embellishment, were creatively incorporated by almost all the designers even if it was in just one or two pieces.

Internationally, the trend was seen on the runway this year in collections by Fendi, Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Victoria Beckham and Tory Burch.

Ali Xeeshan

Sania Maskatiya

Sana Safinaz

Outfitters 193

THE FA

X

Bow Tie Waist Belts

Taking inspiration from the cinched waist trend that was big during NY Fashion Week, many designers added an oomph factor to their pieces by blending in bow-tie waist belts.

Saira Rizwan

Sapphire

Khaadi 194

Tena Durrani

Geometric Patterns

Bold prints making use of geometric shapes were seen in collections by Zonia Anwar, SairaShakira, HSY, Generation and Khaadi Khaas. Clean lines with asymmetrical silhouettes and contrasting inventive combinations of diamonds, circles, triangles, and more resulted in chic and seriously stylish outfits at par with current looks shown by Prada, Marc Jacobs and Max Mara.

Khaadi

HSY

Saira Shakira

Zainab Hamid

195

THE FASHION FIX

Animal Motifs

HSY, Sapphire, Shiza Hassan and Tina Durrani integrated animal motifs in an innovatively chic manner keeping it minimal yet fresh.

Sapphire HSY

Tena Durrani Shiza Hasan 196

Long Jackets

Winter might be gone but long jackets proved to be totally high fashion with labels such as Republic, Khaadi, Ali Xeeshan and Generation featuring some chic pieces and showing us how to carry them off in spring/summer.

Republic

Khaadi

Generation

Ali Xeeshan

197

THE FASHION FIX

Nabila’s Hair Show Hair and make-up maestro Nabila presented her vision for the top hair trends of 2017, where we witnessed an array of hairstyles ranging from chic and beautiful to edgy and whimsical.

Bobs

The long bob has trickled down into this year’s top hair trends. Nabila, however, showcased some shorter, above-the-shoulder bobs as the go-to haircut for 2017. The bobs were expressed in both straight and curly styles, with the former reminding us of Rihanna’s iconic cut while the latter had us reminiscing about the 1930s.

Blowouts

Tight curls have taken a backseat locally as well as internationally and we’re back to striving for the perfect blowouts. There was a mix of straight, shiny, middle-parted styles and waves that form halfway down the length of the hair, providing volume.

198

2

Hair Accessories

The stylist presented one hairstyle that used some extra embellishment to add character to the entire look.

Ponytail

The high pony also makes a comeback but Nabila’s version has serious equestrian vibes incorporating a dense, almost geometrical fringe, making it super trendy.

Hair colour

Balayage, a technique for highlighting hair in which the dye is painted on in such a way as to create a graduated, natural-looking effect, seems to be making a comeback along with multi-coloured locks in shades of neon blue and pink.

Rapunzel

A hairstyle that seems to have been inspired by Ottolinger this NYFW’17, it reminded us of the fairytale Rapunzel and firmly received our stamp of approval for welcoming back the singular plait.

199

TALK OF THE TOWN

DUBAI

Faraz Manan unveils Mirage Acclaimed couturier Faraz Manan showcased “Mirage” Summer Couture 2017 at One&Only, The Palm in Dubai. In attendance were members of royal families from across the region and Bollywood superstar, Kareena Kapoor Khan.

The 40-piece collection is a mix of delicate embellishments, appliqué and cutwork techniques as well as layering and fusion tailoring with a mesmerizing colour palette.

Faraz and Sundus Manan

Hasnat Ahmed, Sana Adil, Adil Bashir and

Kareena Kapoor Khan

200

Faraz Manan

Anel Undovenchic, Zhibek Kussainova, Sonya Sahani, Jannet Miranda, Simran Sehani, Aisha Miranda, Laila Marashi and Kristina Bindra

Rima Jbara

Sara Belhasa, Kareena Kapoor Khan and Poonam

Eman and Lubna Allana

Sana Saeed, Sundus Manan, Shazia Deen, Faraz Manan and Kiran Malik

201

TALK OF THE TOWN

LAHORE

Launch of South Asia’s first VAWC The first Violence Against Women Centre in South Asia was inaugurated recently in Multan as part of the Chief Minister of Punjab’s Strategic Reforms Unit’s Violence Against Women Centres initiative. The act aims to provide a one-stop shop service for all justice delivery departments for female victims of violence.

Chief Minister of Punjab Mian Shahbaz Sharif and Governor of Punjab Muhammad Rafique Rajwana

Director General SRU Salman Sufi

202

In

nauguration ceremon y by Mian Shahbaz Sh

arif

203

Breaking

New Ground

Pakistan’s largest transport company, Daewoo Express Bus Service Ltd, is now operating the Lahore Feeder Bus Service. Comprising 200 fully automated buses, it is the biggest urban transport project ever executed in Pakistan’s history and was inaugurated

by Chief Minister Muhammad Shahbaz Sharif. The landmark project is the first step towards the Punjab government’s master plan of an integrated transport system in Lahore.

206

207

208

Governor of Punjab Muhammad Rafique Rajwana and Mr. Shaheryar Chishty

Faisal Siddiqui, President Daewoo; Shaheryar Chishty, Chairman & CEO Daewoo; M. Rafique Rajwana, Governor Punjab; and C.I. Park, President Daewoo

In another major development, Daewoo Express relocated its terminal from Kalma Chowk, Lahore to Thokar Naiz Baig, adjacent to the M2 Motorway.

The new state-of-the-art terminal is not only bigger, it will also facilitate customers by reducing total travel time. The grand launch was presided over by Governor Punjab Rafique Rajwana.

209

212

214

216

ISSUE #10

HANAMI: CHERRY BLOSSOMS WELCOME SPRING IN

HUNZA

Trip Sponsored By