DESTINATIONS - Issue 3 - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine

ISSUE #03

Go North

On Higher Ground In Chitral

Along the Silk Route A Travel to Hunza

Let the Games Begin

Discovering Naran and Shogra

contents.

ISSUE #03

On the cover

p.50

Along the

p.135

SILK ROUTE

Go North!

34

On Higher Ground: In Chitral

42

Let the Games Begin

50

Along the Silk Route

Let’s Dish

132 Halal Dim Sum? That and so Much More in Hong Kong 124 A Spoonful (or two or three) of Sugar

Wanderer

150 In the Footsteps of History

Off the Beaten Track 144 The Last Bell Makers of Punjab

A world of Good

138 Building Interfaith Bonds

The Last

Bell Makers

p.144

p.94

A Walkthrough

Bangle Bazaar

Anarkali-

p.112

a Tale of

Romance, Retail & Mystique

hiGROUND gher on

p.34

my SQUARE

in

CHITRAL

Near & Afar 28 30

Dream Destinations How to Wear the Bomber Jacket

love, want, need 26

Destinations Desires

Get the Look 54

Don’t Leave Home Without It

The Fashion Fix

MILE

70

My Square Mile with Nadia Malik

Bazaar Buzz 94

p.70

Anarkali: A Tale of Romance, Retail and Mystique

112 A Walk through Bangle Bazaar

editors note from the

warm hello to sunshine! As summer rolls in and temperatures soar, it’s that time of the year when an escape to cooler climes or even the mere thought of it is paramount to our imaginations.

After all, it’s holiday season! Our third issue, a summer special, titled “Go North!”, serves not only as travel guide for those planning their vacations but also as a ticket to these lands of pristine beauty that offer respite from the immense heat of the plains, for those who must strive to head out.

The emphasis this time is on discovery; to open our eyes and see what’s there - new topography, new people and new cultures; on the desire to consciously become aware of the options that surround us, waiting to be explored; and on treading paths less travelled.

Our cover story is from Hunza where travel enthusiast, Fahad Rehman, journeys along the ancient Silk Route and is completely overcome with awe and respect for the stately splendor of history and nature he experiences as he travels around the fabled areas of northern Pakistan.

Not too far from the former princely state are the incredibly beautiful valleys of Naran and Shogran. It is here that clean green pastures lay huddled in amongst snow-capped mountains and it is here that the stars shine brightest in the black velvet sky. Recently visited by a group of college undergraduates from National College of

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 16

Arts, Lahore, student Maham Mansoor’s narrative offers a soul stirring account of a memorable trip.

A little further below is the charming valley of Chitral.

Hamid Rashid, along with a few friends, travels to this land of warm hospitality, scenic vistas and culinary nirvana. In his signature light-hearted manner, Rashid narrates tales of long-drawn hiking adventures, pleasant trips to nearby areas and relaxed bonfire evenings.

While on the subject of travel and culture, tradition is not far behind. Journalist Sonya Rehman writes a compelling tale of obsession with mithai, mapping the social evolution and cultural significance of desi sweets.

Heading down south, to the plains of Punjab and Sindh, there are visual stories on two of the most famous marketplaces of Pakistan- Lahore’s Anarkali and Hyderabad’s Choori Gali.

Model Zara Peerzada stars in our editorial shoot showcasing an interesting mix of modern and traditional styles, set against the backdrop of the historic bazaar in Lahore. Discover the craft of bangle-making in Hyderabad as you read about the journey of the festive accessory through time. From the north right down to the south, panoramas to bazaars, style to heritage, let Destinations guide you through the holidays.

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH FEATURES EDITOR

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : MARIAM MUSHTAQ FEATURES EDITOR : ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH BRAND MANAGER : UMAR KHAN DESIGN & LAYOUT : USMAN MUNIR OFFICIAL PHOTOGRAPHER : UBAID-UR-REHMAN CIRCULATION : ALI TARIQ MEDIA SALES : NAEEM ULLAH PUBLISHED BY : DAEWOO PAKISTAN EXPRESS BUS SERVICE LTD. 231, FEROZEPUR ROAD, KALMA CHOWK, LAHORE, PAKISTAN +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 LEGAL ADVISOR : BASIT WATTOO GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : SHERIAR HASSAN CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER (DAEWOO) : USMAN HAYAT CONTACT (SALES) : +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) +92 333 888 2420 (IRFAN QURESHI) CONTACT (EDITORIAL) : +92 335 455 5764 (ALI TARIQ) DISTRIBUTORS: NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY PRINTER : TOPICAL PRINTERS

destinationspk

destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

destinationspk

My Square Mile Nadia Malik p.70

contributors

22

Salman Rashid

Danial Shah

Mehvesh Mumtaz Ahmed

Maham Mansoor Sirohey

The Last Bell Makers p.144

A Walk through Bangle Bazaar p.112

Halal Dim Sum? That and so much more in Hong Kong p.132

Let the Games Begin p.42

Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, Salman Rashid is author of nine travel books. He is the only Pakistani to have seen the north face of K-2 and trekked in the shadow of this great mountain. His work – explorations, history, travels – appears in leading national publications. He tweets at @odysseuslahori

Danial Shah is a travel photographer and writer.

He is passionate about documenting issues related to diversity, human condition and its interaction with the natural world. He teaches photography as visiting faculty at the department of Visual Studies and Media Studies at the University of Karachi.

Instagram: Danialshah_ Website: www.danialshah.com

Mehvesh graduated from the London School of Economics with a Bachelors degree in Economics and Philosophy and went on to pursue a Masters degree from Princeton University.

Having lived in Hong Kong for the last seven years, she continues to explore this dynamic city and hopes to take readers along on the journey. In her other life, she is a public�policy specialist currently working as a strategy consultant.�

Maham Mansoor Sirohey is a budding graphic designer from the National college of Arts, Lahore. She not only enjoys the visual aspect of creating design but also paints, illustrates and writes for leisure. Her passion for the various areas of art and design can be seen on her Instagram: @mahamsirohey

LOVE, WANT, NEED Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

3

The Empty Space

desires

The Empty Space – Nadia Jamil’s Imaginarium is the perfect antidote to unimaginative summer camps that do little to nurture your child’s imagination or skills. The veteran actor, who describes her latest project as “a sanctuary of peace, creativity, positivity and love”, has put together a group of nurturing mentors to tutor kids in various disciplines – be it art, music, drama, dance or fitness.

1 Zeh Creations

Looking to add some oomph to your home or kitchen? Zeh Creations has a stunning array of marble serving and decorative pieces to suit a variety of tastes and occasions. Whether it’s the quirky Bob Marley or Audrey Hepburn platters or the classic monochrome side tables and stools, Zeh’s accents will help you host in style this festive season.

4

The Exhibit Concept Store

Rina’s transition from a small home-run bakery to the newest ‘it’ eatery in town has come as no surprise. Long renowned for her scrumptious desserts, her foray into savoury treats such as salads and sandwiches has been no less delicious. Located in Y-Block, DHA Lahore, the deli may be small in size but is definitely big on taste.

2

With Eid right around the corner, a quick fashion fix is on everybody’s mind. The Exhibit, a curated fashion store stocking some of the country’s best young brands, presents a vast array of options under one very stylist roof. Located in Gulberg Galleria, Lahore, the store is currently carrying brands such as Shamsha Hashwani, Maheen Ghani Taseer, Esfir, Zainab Salman, Faiza Ahmed, Boho, Arsazi, Barae Khanom, Amene and The Pink Tree Company.

26

Rina’s Kitchenette

The Queen of the Tearling

5

Erika Johansen’s futuristic dystopian fantasy, set in the 24th century following the collapse of the world order, is the ideal summer read – absorbing, detailed and with the ability to transport the reader to a different world. Emma Watson, who’s already signed on to play protagonist Kelsea Glynn, the 19-year-old rebellious Queen in the novel, has said she became obsessed with the book and couldn’t sleep for a week till she had finished it. If that isn’t recommendation enough, we don’t know what is.

NEAR & AFAR

km 80

ali iag

th Na

Islamabad

Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels this summer.

NATHIAGALI, PAKISTAN Nathiagali is one of the most accessible and picturesque towns in the country’s famed northern areas. Known for its scenic mountain views, lush green meadows, hiking trails and pine forests, it’s the ideal family destination for a weekend getaway.

28

How to get there

Make a road trip out of it!

Nathiagali is about a two-hour drive from Islamabad and is located between Murree and Abbottabad.

What to do

Where to stay

A charming guesthouse located right at the end of town, Gali’s End is an exclusive private property tucked away from the bustle yet close enough for you to enjoy all nearby attractions. The resort offers independent apartments with up to four bedrooms.

Take a leisurely stroll through the main bazaar, visit the picturesque wooden St. Matthews Church, a remnant of the town’s colonial past, enjoy horseback riding or, if you’re in the mood for adventure, trek up the Muskhpuri peak that leads through Dungagali to the Ayubia National Park.

GSTAAD, SWITZERLAND

Where to stay There’s no shortage of luxury accommodations in Gstaad, the latest amongst them being The Alpina Gstaad. From its stunning views of the Swiss Alps to an eclectic art collection, its Michelin-star restaurant to the luxurious spa, there’s a host of reasons why this picturesque chalet is ‘the’ place to stay in Gstaad.

How to get there

Turkish Air flies to Zurich via Istanbul from all major cities of Pakistan.

What to do

The village center features a scenic promenade with a series of boutiques, restaurants, art galleries, and hotels. The nature preserve by the idyllic Lake Lauenen with its waterfalls and high moors is a great family excursion and the hiking trails in the region are renowned for their beauty.

Often referred to as the ‘Alpine Garden of Eden’, Gstaad is a tiny resort town in Switzerland famed as much for its stunning views as the jet-set crowd that likes to holiday on its slopes.

Whether you go to indulge in a bit of celeb-spotting or to enjoy the chalet village’s many gourmet restaurants and stylish shopping options, a visit is sure to be a treat.

GSTAAD

29

NEAR & AFAR

Tory Burch

Dolce & Gabbana

How to Wear the Bomber Jacket

With the sports-luxe trend still reigning supreme amongst fashionistas near and afar, the bomber jacket remains one of the top fashion items to buy this season. Whether you drape it over your shoulder as a shield from the sun, snuggle into it in cooler climes or choose to make it your travel companion to brave ever-changing airport temperatures, we’ve lined up the best local and international styles for you.

Sana Safinaz

Zara Topshop Mahgul

30

Gucci

Sublime

Vetements

Burberry

Topshop

31

32

33

GO NORTH!

ON HIGHER GROUND:

IN CHITRAL

Hamid Rashid travels to the charming valley of Chitral and in his signature light-hearted manner, narrates tales of long-drawn hiking adventures, pleasant excursions to nearby towns and relaxed bonfire evenings.

34

Photography: Ubaid-ur-Rehman

GO NORTH!

~“You're off to Great Places!

Today is your day!

Your mountain is waiting, So.. get on your way!”

There are few places as stunningly beautifully as the Chitral valley. Nestled at the foot of the mighty Tirich Mir mountain, the highest peak of the Hindu Kush mountain range, it offers scenic vistas, great cuisine and unmatchable hospitality. I had been planning a trip for the better part of five years before I finally got my act together and visited the valley in April of this year. The trip did not disappoint.

Our itinerary was set over 8 days which included excursions, treks, camping and visits to nearby areas. The group was a hotchpotch of Lahoris, Karachiwallas, Islooites and our host Mehnaz ul Mulk, a native of Chitral, and her husband Gahtan Vahidy, a childhood chum. We stayed at the Hindkush Heights, a hotel which was built and is now run to perfection by Mehnaz’s parents, Siraj and Ghazala ul Mulk.

Overlooking the Chitral airport, it offers beautiful views of airplanes landing and taking off. Each and every room has a private terrace as well. There is a central dining hall where the most sumptuous meals are served, made mostly with locally grown produce such as asparagus and mushrooms.

Mehnaz and her parent’s hospitality and efforts to make the trip a memorable one cannot be understated. Travellers should be aware of one point, however – if they invite you for a “walk”, you should mentally prepare yourself to be at the point of collapse within a very short timeframe!

36

37

GO NORTH! Having arrived at the hotel, we spent a night there and decided to visit Bumburet Valley which is home to the Kalash tribe. Their culture is different and interesting and frankly, it is quite amazing to have survived given that their population has been on the decline for several years.

Our trip was a short one as we decided to trek back taking the “scenic route” which provided a rather perilous “living on the edge” sort of experience for the uninitiated.

Mehnaz, of course, had no problem and at one point started running the narrow trail! Difficulty aside, the trek was one of the highlights of the trip. The views of the various peaks and valleys were phenomenally beautiful.

We descended the trail at dusk and drove back to the hotel.

The next day we left for Mastuj, one of the ancestral homes of the Ul Mulk family. Mastuj is a truly special part of the world. The Hindukush Heights Hotel has built a series of chalets that overlook an orchard of apple trees and are surrounded by snow-capped peaks. We spent two nights here and the temperatures were markedly lower. In the evenings, we enjoyed a bonfire and during the day, soaked up the rays of the sun, which are remarkably strong at that altitude. One of the most memorable stretches in these two days was a trip to a local village, improbably named Onshot. Onshot is the village of one of the staff members at HKH and he invited us for lunch to his home where we were treated to fresh trout, a bhujia of asparagus and mushrooms and delicious pulao. Sitting in these beautiful surroundings, in the rather Englishsounding village of Onshot, I mentally transported myself to the English countryside, until of course someone answered their phone and started shouting in Punjabi!

The following day we returned to HKH for a night before setting off on a camping and trekking trip to the village of Charun Oveer. After pitching camp, we went for a short walk before settling in around a campfire. Having experienced the demanding nature of the previous trek, I tried to get a good night’s sleep – made impossible by the snores of our camp site that resonated across what seemed like the entire valley. Nonetheless, we began our trek on schedule at 8am. We quickly divided into two groups. I happened to be in the group led by Mehnaz but our guides got left with the other group. Before long, a local ‘baba’ attached himself to us and let’s just say, it was all downhill, or rather, uphill, from there. We ascended what seemed like an almost vertical peak to land on top of a trail that led to a glacier. While we were cursing the baba the whole way, the end result was spectacular.

In conclusion, a trip to Chitral must surely be on the bucket list for all adventure travellers. In the immortal words of Dr. Seuss “You're off to Great Places! Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting, So... get on your way!”

38

39

GO NORTH!

40

GO NORTH!

By Maham Mansoor Students of the National College of Arts recently visited Naran and Shogun, a trip that was filled with laughter, adventure and a dose of Pakistan's stunning natural wonders.

42

Photography: Adil Mehmood

GO NORTH! The thought of a trip up north provides the perfect respite from the soaring summer temperatures these days. Instead of just daydreaming about the cold breeze on your face, however, you can translate it into reality, get your winter gear out and head to the mountains to take a chill pill (pun intended!).

The next day we headed towards Shogran, jamming to songs all the while. We were booked at the Pine Park Hotel, which is located at a steep height. Guests are usually driven up in jeeps since coasters are unfit to travel up the horrifically narrow road. Kudos to our bus drivers that they managed to steer the massive vehicles safely up the mountain path. Talk about ‘living on the edge!’

Luckily, we are blessed with a country that offers us all four seasons all year round. A trip within Pakistan is more promising than a ready-made sweet escape to foreign lands, which is much more costly and not as diversely rich in culture.

The temperature was lower here than in Ayubia and the wind so cold, it made our teeth chatter. But who cares about the chill when you can see snow-clad mountains surrounding a small park-side hotel dotted with cherry blossom trees hanging over you.

We, the NCA students’ batch of 2017, arranged our last college trip to Naran and Shogran in May, hoping to clear our heads before starting afresh for our thesis semester.

Whatsapp groups were created, lists of essentials were jotted down and the packing begun.

The hotel consisted of luxury cottages as well as standard rooms; you can pick what suits your budget. After a quick meal, everybody gathered around in the lobby area for a bonfire.

There was dancing, playing music on the guitar, singing and while some sipped their tea and coffee, they consumed in the night sky which was perforated with millions of shiny dots. It was breathtakingly beautiful and I was awestruck. It made me question how human interventions and our disregard for our surroundings can infest nature’s course because back in the city, you would rarely find a handful of stars in the entire sky.

You will definitely question your packing skills once you experience bone-chilling weather, leaving behind the oven that is Lahore.

The prime surprise you’ll get when you travel up north in the month of May is the tremendous weather difference. You will definitely question your packing skills once you experience bonechilling weather, leaving behind the oven that is Lahore. Be sure to pack many layers of clothing (especially girls, since vanity is not enough to keep you warm in 1 degree Celsius weather). Also, keep loads of pairs of socks since the snow and drizzling wets your shoes and you need to keep dry at all times.

If you’re in Shogran, you’d better be geared up aptly to go to Siri Paye. It is further up and can be reached via jeeps provided by the hotels in the area. Or, if you’re the athletic kind, you can undertake a two-hour trek to reach it. We left for Siri Paye after breakfast, undeterred by the canopy of drizzle and cold above us. I clutched my heart and recited all the prayers I could, witnessing the near-death experience of driving on an edgeless, rugged track. The jeeps were slipping but the professional drivers kept the mood light by reassuring their wide-eyed passengers that they were pros (no doubt about that, since we did reach safely!).

Embarking on our journey, all 85 students in coasters travelled by night and reached Ayubia by daylight. Although everybody was tired, we retired only briefly to our rooms booked at the PTDC and then headed out to enjoy the breezy weather.

There were measured cadences of the place, with the constant chirping of woodpeckers, the chairlift moving up and down and an occasional solemn neighing of the gorgeous white horses that would let you ride them on the steep slopes of Ayubia.

It was just the right amount of cold if you wanted to retreat for a day or two; a cold that was bearable for all ages.

Don’t forget sunscreen, you’ll never know when the sun hits you. Trust me, even under cloudy skies, your nose isn’t spared. You also can’t afford to travel without basic first aid; be sure to pack Motilium and Gravinate 44

to

Travellers

since the topsy-turvy rides up the mountains are not good accomplices to the tummy. Also, painkillers and anti-allergies are good to keep in case of emergencies.

45

GO NORTH! Siri – the land of clouds. The small green pastured valley, tucked cosily under a bed of clouds and huddled by snowy mountains, was a rare sight. The pasture enclosed a huge sparkling pond that shone as raindrops fell over it. It would be an understatement to say that we felt cold, as no amount of layers kept the icy wind from piercing us. Some of us headed to a nearby dhaaba where pakoras and tea were being served –covenants being made that tea was the ultimate saviour.

While some chose to relax, the rest of us went off on a trek up to Paye. The walkway was muddy and slippery, ruining our joggers that were not at all fit for rainy weather. Luckily, we found a few locals on our way; they had set up shop in makeshift tents and were renting trekking boots and walking sticks.

Without even thinking for a split second, I rented the gear and continued on the hike. It was serene to walk in the clouds, treading a path that was covered with snow on either side. I found beautiful, self-blooming flowers that adorned the naked green patches devoid of snow.

There was no sound, just the crunching of the snow under our feet and the melody of the slow music beating in our headphones as we walked.

As evening fell, it started to get even colder and we headed back to our hotel. Tired and exhausted, we decided to put up a projector (we had brought with us) in the garden and screened movies late through the night.

It was a great idea to relax and huddle in our sleeping bags after a long day.

46

The next morning we headed to Naran, which was even colder than the previous places. We arrived at the PTDC after a 7-hour journey. The huts were in a huge green compound and alongside a downstream that automatically blew the wind on to our faces. The mountains were covered in snow and the sky was a threatening blue while sunlight danced on the far-off peaks vivaciously. Naran is famous for its Mall Road so everybody headed down there for coffee and hot chocolate and some traditional handicraft shopping. Naran has great pears by the way, really crunchy and scrumptious, so if you ever go, make sure to grab a handful.

Since the snow hadn’t melted, Lake Saiful-ul Mulook remained frozen and closed off to visitors. Instead, we took advantage of the first sunny morning we encountered during our trip, and went rafting. We lay under the sun because the warmth, after the continuous teeth-jittering cold, was heaven. We either played outdoors, or went for walks outside the PTDC premises, exploring villages nearby, taking pictures while basking in the sun.

As the sun set, we decided to arrange for a bonfire and hold a BBQ. Since it was the last night of our trip, we got our trusted screen out again to watch a movie under the open sky. We sang and had fun all through the night around the bonfire until the first ray of the sun struck the PTDC grounds. Only then did people start leaving for their rooms.

47

GO NORTH!

48

I wouldn’t want to write about the journey back home because it filled me with sadness to leave the raw beauty of the places I had encountered. Yet it was also a promise that I’d be back soon to witness natural wonders that I wouldn’t find anywhere in the urban landscape.

GO NORTH!

Along the Silk Route

By Fahad Rehman

Travel enthusiast Fahad Rehman journeys along the ancient Silk Route and is overcome with awe and wonder at the stately splendour of history and nature that he encounters around the fabled areas of north Pakistan.

51

GO NORTH!

Rakaposhi View Point While driving through Nagar to Gilgit on the Karakoram Highway, this is the first proper view of the mighty snow-capped Rakaposhi. Towering at an approximate 7,800 meters above sea level, it completely dominates the surrounding landscape.

52

Sacred Rocks On the way to Attabad Lake from Karimabad, you will come across the Sacred Rocks. At first glance, they seem like any other boulders on the side of the road but upon closer inspection, you will notice carvings dating back to the first millennium.

It is truly a remarkable site.

53

GO NORTH!

54

Attabad Lake About a two-hour drive from Karimabad lies the famous Attabad Lake.

Once a bustling village, a massive landslide in 2010 blocked the Hunza River and caused the valley to flood. Before the Chinese contractors built the roadway and tunnels, the only way for people and vehicles to cross the lake was by boat!

55

GO NORTH! Eagle’s Nest The world-famous Eagle’s Nest is a must visit when in Karimabad, Hunza. The hotel has a remarkable view of the entire valley and its viewing deck is the best place to witness the spectacular sunrises and sunsets. This one is for your bucket list.

Serena Hotel, Karimabad My favourite place to stay in Karimabad was The Serena. With an extremely professional and courteous staff, it was definitely one of the highlights of my trip. Be sure to ask for the tents instead of the regular rooms. They are spacious, comfortable and luxurious. We were served freshly picked cherries on our arrival. Yum!

Hopar Glacier Being one of the most accessible glaciers of the region, Hopar is an awesome site. It takes a couple of hours to get there by car but it is definitely worth the nerve-racking drive. The Hopar valley is very scenic and will remind you of places like Switzerland or Austria. Once at the Hopar Hilton, a twenty-minute downhill trek can get you to the edge of the glacier.

Be warned! The trek back can be quite strenuous due to a lack of oxygen. Be sure to use the local guide available at the Hilton.

GO NORTH!

58

Gilgit -Biltistan During our stay in Karimabad, there was quite a bit of rallying as elections were around the corner. The PM himself was on the campaign trail in Gilgit-Baltistan. Political campaigning was in full swing and flags of several parties were being waved around from cars and motorbikes. After the speeches, locals partook in traditional dance on music blaring from loud speakers. Men, women and children from the village participated.

Ganish Village Ganish is a small but historical village close to Karimabad that dates back to 1,000 years. After a massive undertaking by the Agha Khan Foundation, Ganish Village was restored to its former glory. Walking through the narrow streets, one feels as though they have travelled back in time. It was an overwhelming experience to say the least.

59

GO NORTH!

Astore & Rama Meadows After driving 4 hours from Karimabad to Astore, to our frustration we were told the road to Deosai was closed due to heavy snowfall and landslides. We ended up having lunch at a roadside dhaaba and turned around. The only place we could think of staying was PTDC Rama.

Never having visited before, we really didn’t know what to expect. The road to Rama was long and broken. At some points, in fact, there was no road. As we approached Rama, we could not believe our eyes. It was the most picturesque place we had seen during our whole journey. The pictures really don’t do it justice.

The PTDC lodges were exquisite and the place itself was out of a fairy-tale. The meadow had streams running through it and the lodge was strategically built at the edge of the alpine forest. For the duration of our stay there, we only heard birds chirping and the sound of water running in the streams.

60

61

64

66

68

THE FASHION FIX

my SQUARE

MILE

by

Nadia Malik

The supermodel shows us around her go-to boutiques in her current hometown, London.

70

Photography: Sama Khan

THE FASHION FIX ne of the perks of living in London is the innumerable shopping options it affords.

Many Pakistanis consider the city their summer home; yet very few do it justice in terms of exploring its real retail potential. If you are an avid fashionista like me, you’ll understand that when it comes to retail therapy, it’s not just size (of where you shop) that matters! I mean, if you are content to limit yourself to V.A.T. refund receipts from Harrods (or shhhh… Biscester Village), then you’re really not cashing in on the city’s reputation as the fashion capital of the world, home to names like Alexander McQueen, Paul Smith and Stella McCartney.

A reference to these names is not to encourage you to buy the labels but instead, to spur you to

really explore the city that gave birth to these fashion giants. Shop only at Harrods and you run the risk of being cloned at the next GT you attend back home.

So here’s a little help from the Lahori in London, who loves to dish out fashion advice you might not hear elsewhere. It may not be a “Time Out”-style comprehensive guide to London shopping but it’s a peek inside some of my favourite boutiques in the city. This is where I go to pick up the perfect outfit for a night out with (always) fashionable friends from back home or a girl’s lunch where I want to impress the school mums. My go-to stores are accessible, fun-to-browse and eclectic. Most importantly, shopping at these will ensure that the next time you attend a big bash, you’ll be the ONLY one wearing THAT outfit.

Shop only at Harrods and you run the risk of being cloned at the next GT you attend back home.

Iris

is my neighborhood boutique. I discovered it not too long ago when I had my daughter and would find solace and much-needed inspiration in its window displays. The façade has a lovely village-y feel to it and the store itself gives off a very homey, comfortable vibe, much like the (mostly) casual clothes it carries. Think cotton tunics, long flowing kaftans, twill jackets, summer maxi dresses, boyfriend cashmere jumpers, comfy yet oh-so-sexy lingerie. The (wish) list is endless.

There’s undoubtedly a little something for everyone (and their daughters!). Not a typical mum and baby store, it caries some very impressive brands like Malene Birger, Etoile by Isabel Marant, Duffy, American Vintage, Customade and Penelope Chilvers to name a few. With Gail’s right across the road for fuel should you tire from shopping, how can you resist a visit on your next trip to London?

72

Locations:

Queen’s Park, Northcote Road, Chiswick and Amersham.

Brands:

My favourites are Etoile by Isabel Marant, Duffy, BA&SH and Little IRIS.

Why shop here:

For cool casuals that look as good at a girl’s lunch at Barrafina as they do on a park play date.

Latest Purchase:

Customade tribal print twill jacket in navy and white.

73

THE FASHION FIX

Trilogy

The thing about Trilogy is that for me, it is THE only store you should go to should you want to treat yourself to the perfect pair of jeans. There is never an occasion, backstage or during fashion week rehearsals or even when I’m at home hosting a casual lunch, that I am not complimented on my jeans and I give due credit to Trilogy for it!

Trust me on this one, the sales advisors are nothing short of denim geniuses and they will make sure you get the perfect pair in the right shade of blue (or white or black) in the right style.

Although its stock isn’t limited to denim only, it is famed to be the store you CANNOT walk out of without having bought at least a few pairs of jeans (yes! That’s how good their customer service is). From the perfect pair of ripped skinnies to the on-trend flares, they have a style for every body type and a team of sales assistants who will keep handing you whatever you need – whether it’s a different size or style, a pair of heels (should you want to see how the jeans will look on a night out) or even a bottle of water, because finding the right pair requires patience and perseverance.

Locations:

Duke of York Square, Marylebone High Street, Wimbledon, Hampstead and Kensington Church Street.

Brands:

JBrand, Paige, Frame, 7 for All Mankind and AG (to name a few).

Why shop here:

For the perfect pair of jeans of course!

Latest Purchase:

JBrand cropped jeans in Demented.

74

Browsing the online Matches store is part of my daily morning fix, along with my coffee. I cannot kick off the day without a quick peek.

Matches Fashion

It has all my favorite brands under one roof and then some! Don’t be put off by the sales assistants because sometimes (read most of the time), they’re not entirely helpful but the product selection is impeccable. Think Ascot races, sunny day in Wimbledon, a match at Lords or just cocktails at Park Chinois. A big recommendation to all my red-carpet-ready friends who may feel they don’t have enough options back home.

Locations:

Marylebone High Street, Notting Hill, Richmond and Wimbledon.

Brands:

DVF, Charlotte Olympia, Self-Portrait, The Row and Mother of Pearl.

Why shop here:

For fashion that truly inspires.

Latest Purchase:

Charlotte Olympia Pandora clutch.

75

THE FASHION FIX

Locations:

Marylebone High Street.

Why shop here:

For the purest leather that’s ecologically treated.

Latest Purchase:

Snakeskin beige coin purse.

76

Liberty Locations:

Regent Street.

Brands:

Nicholas Kirkwood, Acne, Peter Pilotto and Kenzo.

Why shop here:

Because there is no place quite like it in London

Latest Purchase:

When it comes to Liberty however, I make an exception. Of all the department stores, Liberty is my ultimate favourite (followed closely by Harvey Nichols). From luxurious fabrics for a designing project to funky accessories and fashion finds, this iconic brown and white building is a testament to unique fashion. Being in Liberty is like being in a fashion wonderland and I rarely ever leave without having spent an entire day browsing through its wonderfully displayed merchandise.

La Portegna

Orange cat-eye sunglasses

by Stella McCartney.

I stay away from big department stores no matter how awesome they are famed to be (not as a rule of course, just as a philosophy). Don’t get me wrong; I don’t have anything against department stores. They’re super convenient and great to spend a rainy day in but since everyone who visits or lives in London shops there, there is little you can buy that won’t already be hanging in someone’s wardrobe. I would advice shopping with caution when you visit the so-called big guns of high-end department stores.

If it’s pure leather, functional items you want without the designer price tag (or simply because you’re tiring of being the bag clone at all the summer events!), head to Marylebone High Street where La Portegna (a Spanish brand) houses some of the simplest yet sleekest bags/sandals and other small leather goods. Bright, colourful and fun, you’ll always find a little something for yourself or a friend. Great place to buy your male partner those espadrilles as well. Oh so handy and fashionable while shopping in London on a summer day!

77

THE FASHION FIX

Dover Street Market

Contrary to what its name suggests, it’s not a weekend market with canopy-covered stalls.

With outposts in Ginza and New York, this London design boutique stretches over an impressive six floors and is peppered with design-led pieces from Delfina Dellatrex, CdG and Husam el Odeh.

It’s fashion with tons of spunk!

Locations:

Dover Street.

Why shop here:

Because no one you know does.

Feathers Fashion

A family-run business, this Knightsbridge boutique houses a curated collection of pieces by the brightest young British talent and is a good one for spotting the next big thing in fashion. From beautifully merchandised mannequins and staff that speaks (literally) nine languages, you’ll not want to leave without using your credit card.

Locations:

Hans Crescent.

Why shop here:

Because the store prides itself on offering fashion finds you’ll not see anywhere else.

78

Space.NK

is to skincare and make-up what Trilogy is to denim. Need I say more? Never make another skincare blunder because the team at Space.NK knows the answer to all your skincare worries and woes.

Houses cherry-picked brands by the founder Nicky Kinnaird and a sales team that promises (and delivers) your skin’s best potential.

Locations:

Westbourne Grove, Kensington Church Street, Northcote Road, Duke of York Square and several more.

Why shop here:

There is a plethora of skincare/make-up products to choose from without any of the pushing and shoving from the tourist crowd.

Latest Purchase:

Genius anti-ageing eye cream by Algenist.

Larizia

For a quick round-up of trending designer shoes and bags, check out Larizia. Having been around for nearly three decades, it’s a great place to find curated pieces by Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Valentino and Alexander McQueen.

Locations:

St. John’s Wood and Golders Green.

Why shop here:

With a price match promise and an eclectic selection, the flagship store in St. John’s Wood is far more accessible than most other stores carrying similar brands of shoes and bags.

Latest Purchase:

Rock stud espadrilles by Valentino.

79

DIARY THE FASHION FIX

80

GET THE LOOK

Don’t Leave

Home Without It

If there’s one item of clothing you should be packing for your summer travels, it’s the off-shoulder top. A trend that’s taken the international style circuit by storm, the bare-shoulders look is versatile, chic and playful, easily taking you from a daytime brunch to a night out on the town. Here’s how to style it during your upcoming city or beach vacation.

84

Paris

St Tropez

AURÉLIE BIDERMANN

Takayama Gold-plated, Leather And Bakelite Necklace

Breakfast overlooking the bay at St Tropez ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS

PONDS

ILIAS LALAoUNIS Zoe Snakes

Age Miracle Day Cream

SEE BY CHLOE

Textured Leather-trimmed Denim Tote

SPORT

lazy

GUCCI

Waterproof Mascara

Morning

Horsebit-detailed Floral-print Canvas Slippers

A room with a view

STELLA MCCARTNEY

D-frame Chain-embellished Acetate Sunglasses

SAINT LAURENT

Large Calfskin Fringe Shopping Tote Bag

85

GET THE LOOK

A bite on a Parisian sidewalk

PROENZA SCHOULER Leather Clutch Bag

CHARLOTTE TILBURY Matte Revolution Lipstick in Sexy Sienna

AQUAZZURA Tulum Fringed Leather Sandal

girls

Brunch GIGI BURRIS Endless Ete Raffia Sun Hat

EMILIO PUCCI Patterned Combo Square Sunglasses

CHARLOTTE TILBURY Beach Stick in Moonbeach

LOEFFLER RANDALL Harper Metallic Wedge Espadrille Sandal

86

Lunch on the Promenade

Shopping along the beautiful streets of Paris URIBE

AQUAZZURA Christy Suede Point-toe Flats

Laura Gold and Rhodium-plated Agate Cuffs

in the city

SELF-PORTRAIT Luxe Cat-eye Sunglasses

TOM FORD Jennifer Calf Skin Shoulder Bag

retail Indulging in luxury at Chanel’s pop-up boutique AQUAZZURA Tulum Studded Suede Sandals

RAY-BAN Round-frame Gold-tone Mirrored Sunglasses

AURELIE BIDERMANN Vera Gold-plated Earrings

STELLA MCCARTNEY TOTE

at the resort

87

GET THE LOOK STELLA MCCARTNEY Gold-plated Silverite Necklace

EUGENIA KIM Fedora with Black Ribbon

Soaking in art, culture and history at The Louvre PRADA Bicolor Leather Saddle Bag

Sight seeing

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Faux Leather Platform Brogues

A leisurely stroll along the French Riviera

STELLA MCCARTNEY Cat-eye Chain-embellished Acetate Mirrored Sunglasses

EUGENIA KIM Sunny Currently Offline Sun Hat

LOEFFLER RANDALL Starla Leathe Gladiator Sandal

SAINT LAURENT Panier Fringed LeatherTrimmed Raffia Tote

88

Dining in the shadow of the Notre Dame TOM FORD Metallic Python Wristlest Clutch Bag

TOM FORD D’orsay Two-tone Metallic Python Pumps

Night out

AURÉLIE BIDERMANN Snake Gold-plated Choker

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Glamming it up for a night at Byblos

Falabella Snake-Print Bucket Bag, Silver

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Embellished Metallic Leather Sandals

JENNIFER FISHER

Small Chaos Silver-plated Ear Cuff

89

GET THE LOOK

90

St Tropez – An Overview Nestled along the French Riviera and a short drive from Nice or Cannes, St. Tropez is one of the liveliest towns on the coast during the summer.

There’s something to suit all tastes here – stunning sandy beaches, fascinating culture, gourmet food and a happening nightlife.

Originally an unassuming fishing village, developed around a port founded by Marseille’s Greeks, and serving as a military stronghold till the beginning of the 20th century, St Tropez became a favourite hangout of writers, painters and fashionistas in the 1920s. It attracted names such as Henri Matisse, Anaïs Nin, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. In the 1950s, the village became internationally renowned as the setting for films including And God Created Woman starring French actress Brigitte Bardot.

St Tropez remains as fashionable as ever, still a place to spot world-renowned celebrities who frequent its glorious beaches and quaint streets.

The little town is a delight with its winding medieval streets of traditional pastel-painted fishermen’s cottages, boutiques and restaurants; the port with fishing boats moored alongside mega-yachts. Here you can combine rustic Provence and chic Côte d’Azur with a visit to the market place on Place des Lices in the morning, and an evening spent in the cafés around the harbour.

BAZAAR BUZZ

St Tropez to

Lahore’s French Connection Separated by thousands of miles yet bound together by the legacy of one man, the ties that bind the French coastal town to the heart of Punjab are fascinating. The man in question is one Jean-François Allard, a French soldier born in St Tropez in 1785.

Allard was a skilled military officer who served in Napoleon’s army till its defeat in the Battle of Waterloo. Fearing exile, Allard came to Persia and then onwards to Punjab, arriving in Lahore in 1822, accompanied by another officer of the French army, Jean Baptise Ventura.

Lahore was then under the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who tasked the two men with training the Sikh army and commanding an elite squad. Allard soon proved his worth and rose through the ranks to be appointed a general in Ranjit Singh’s army.

Unlike other European mercenaries in Punjab, General Allard displayed a great interest in local culture and traditions. He married a Hindu princess and built a residence for his family in old Anarkali, surrounded by a vast garden. In 1834, the general took a leave and returned to his hometown of St Tropez in order to settle his family there (A direct descendant of Allard, Henri Prevost Allard, continues to live in St Tropez and previously served as Deputy Mayor of Tourism).

Anarkali remains Allard’s final resting place, in an area colloquially referred to as ‘Kuri da Bagh’ (Daughter’s Garden). It is reported that Allard’s favourite daughter Marie-Charlotte died at a young age and was buried in the garden of his house, hence the name. The general himself died suddenly in 1839 while serving in Peshawar, and according to his wishes, was buried next to his daughter. Maharaja Ranjit Singh made sure his favourite general received a grand burial and built a beautiful domed structure to mark his grave.

To this day, General Allard’s tomb stands intact between old Anarkali and Jain Mandir, inside a gated enclosure. The French government recently undertook restoration work on it and a commemorative plaque outside the area gives a brief yet enthralling history lesson as to its significance.

92

93

BAZAAR BUZZ

a Tale of

Romance, Retail& Mystique

By Mariam Mushtaq

94

Model: Photography: Hair & Make-up: Jewellery: Styling:

Zara Peerzada Umar Khan Zara Gul Amrapali Haiya Bokhari

BAZAAR BUZZ

Traditional hand-embroidered ghaghra-sari in net by Rano’s Heirlooms paired with a lace corset from Zara’s wardrobe.

The ‘Boyfriend’ kurta

by Karma and embroidered boot-cut pants from Rema Luxe, worn with a hand-embroidered waistcoat

by Rano’s Heirlooms

BAZAAR BUZZ

99

BAZAAR BUZZ

Ajrak print off-shoulder top by Boho styled with Generation’s tasseled shalwar.

100

BAZAAR BUZZ

102

A classic white-on-white look

by Rema Luxe, featuring a breezy off-shoulder tunic and matching trousers.

BAZAAR BUZZ

Cotton peplum top from Generation, worn with Zara’s own jeans.

Lahore’s oldest surviving bazaar was once the center of culture and style; and remains a popular shopping destination even today. Delve into the history, legend and romance of the bustling market as we take you for a walk into the past. narkali – the name has the ability to evoke a variety of emotions depending on one’s disposition. Shopaholics experience a rush of adrenaline at the thought of all the bargains on offer within the narrow alleyways of the thriving market. History buffs prefer to delve deep into the past and ponder over Anarkali’s Mughal and colonial heritage. And those who love a good tale remain forever enchanted by the myth that defines the origins of the bazaar.

The history of Anarkali, that heaving, bustling maze of congested streets and tiny shops located outside the Lohari Gate, can be traced back to colonial times. According to noted travel writer Salman Rashid, the area originally served as barracks for the British Indian Army for a short while when troops moved into the Punjab following the clash of 1857. The cantonment soon shifted to Mian Mir, and the street became primarily residential. Eventually, business establishments began to flourish on the ground floors of the residential complexes, and over time, Anarkali became known as the poshest bazaar of its time.

The legend of Anarkali – the beautiful courtesan who seduced the Mughal Prince Saleem only to be entombed alive in a wall for her transgression by Salim’s father Emperor Akbar – has inspired poetry, music and films but no tribute is as enduring as the tomb built by the grieving Prince in her memory.

Completed by Emperor Jehangir aka Prince Salim in 1615 to mark the spot where she was buried, the tomb gave name to the bazaar that sprung up around it during the time of the British, close to 200 years ago.

“In the 50s and the 60s, Anarkali was the only market in Lahore,” recalls Rashid. “Back then, the city had a total of 200-300 automobiles and when ten cars gathered close to the bazaar, it created veritable chaos. Anarkali was home to locally made products; none of the Chinese stuff that has flooded the market these days. The one shop that stands out in my memory is the Kanpur Leather Store known for its stout leather suitcases the likes of which were not found elsewhere.”

105

BAZAAR BUZZ Other old establishments included Inayatullah, known for its overcoats, dressing gowns and dress shirts, Bombay Cloth House, with its treasure trove of imported materials and saris of the finest French chiffon and softest English voile and Mohkham Din Bakery, renowned for its delectable confections.

For a generation that saw Anarkali in all its glory, the sight is one that is hard to forget. Indian writer and scholar Pran Nevile, who was born in Lahore, reminisces fondly about the bazaar in his book Lahore: A Sentimental Journey. “With the passage of time, Anarkali grew richer and more captivating,” he writes.

“By the late 1930s, it had become the most fashionable shopping center of the city and bevies of elegantly dressed women also began visiting it."

Describing the bazaar’s significance as a social and cultural hotspot, he writes, “Anarkali had also grown up as a place of recreation with a host of restaurants and bars, patronized by the landed gentry of Punjab and western UP who came to Lahore on a spending spree.”

Today, the market may have lost its glamorous veneer but within its various iterations it still holds a significant appeal for those looking to sample a taste of the Lahore that used to be. Old Anarkali is known for its food street, where you can taste Punjabi street food at its best. Bano Bazaar is a kaleidoscope of colour offering a dizzying assortment of trinkets and accessories. Paan Gali brings a slice of Delhi to Lahore, with its wide offerings of Indian goods ranging from saris and jamavars, to herbal products, oils, bindis and rangolis.

Vibrant and chaotic, Anarkali embodies Lahore’s spirit of grandeur, contradictions and co-existence. Amongst shops selling everything from stationery to handembroidered khussas to fresh nimbo paani, you’ll spot architectural styles derived from the various eras to have shaped the city’s cultural ethos – from Mughal to Sikh to British. Sandwiched between buildings in the traditional sub-continental design adorned with wooden jhorakas lies the Anarkali Church, a red and yellow building that speaks of European influence. Sikh architecture is visible in the rounded cupolas of General Allard’s tomb near the historic Jain Mandir.

Not many visitors to Anarkali know that located inside one of the narrow alleyways exists the mausoleum of Qutub-din Aibak, the slave general of Mohammad Ghauri and the founder of the Slave Dynasty in South Asia. He was killed playing polo in Lahore and was buried at Anarkali. The tomb was originally constructed in 1210 and renovated by the government in the 1970s.

It is surprises such as this, and so many more, that add to the charm of the market – a beguiling mix of commerce, legend, history and that indefatigable spirit that makes Lahore such a culturally rich destination.

106

107

BAZAAR BUZZ

Reflections on

My earliest memory of Anarkali is tagging along with my mother as she shopped at Bano Bazaar and being treated to the famous chaat of the area – a taste that you really can’t find anywhere else. It was also the place to go for Eid shopping when one wanted a new pair of peshawari chappals.

The bazaar itself has a fascinating history. After partition, many of Delhi’s Urdu speaking families settled around it and hence the food of the area – from the nihari to the kebabs – has a very unique, ‘Delhi wala’ taste.

I feel that it is the figure of Anarkali that deserves real attention. Whether the story is true or not, it is deeply rooted in our culture and hence, needs to be celebrated. How often does one hear of a strong female figure who defied authority and left such a lasting legacy?

Lahore needs to devise an annual festival around Anarkali, a festive occasion marked by song and dance to commemorate the legend.

Nadia Jamil Actor Shopping in Anarkali is a sensory overload; you’ve got your finger on the pulse of the city. There’s an incredible vibrancy of sounds and smells and for me, it is one of the most exciting places on earth. Other than the history and romance associated with the market, the reason I’ve been going there since I was a child and now take my own children, is that it’s just an awesome place to shop. From my bangles and dupattas to bicycles and stationery for the kids, there’s no end to what you can find in Anarkali.

Bano Bazaar is to Lahore what Accessorize is to the rest of the world.

I’m not a fan of malls, they suffocate me. Anarkali, on the other hand, a place that allows you to break free of the ‘cultural elite syndrome’ and meet the vibrant, down-to-earth, unrestrained Pakistanis who make up the majority of this country, is a liberating experience.

What worries me now is the pollution and the fear that the stunning architecture and artisanship on display is getting tainted. It would be wonderful if the government would take steps to educate the public on the immense historical value of the market and take steps to preserve it.

Yousaf Salahuddin Cultural Icon, Ex-Politician Anarkali’s two branches, the old and the new, mark Lahore’s transition from being the seat of the Mughals to a colonial city. In this one long strip of a market, which occupied a very small footprint in terms of urban mass, you could get everything from paper in bulk to your daughter’s dowry. In its prime, Anarkali was a promenade where people would come from across the region to get a sense of what Lahore was all about.

The architecture of the bazaar is an assortment of colonial and post-colonial influences. New Anarkali is fascinating because it has a lot of art deco buildings. Art deco in the subcontinent is somewhat similar to South American art deco in that it embraces motifs that are unique and localized, and not necessarily European.

What’s truly remarkable is that within this one market, you will find the tomb of a Muslim general, a dharamshala and a church, a building that’s almost Venetian in style given its over-exuberant use of plaster mouldings and fancy brickwork.

Attique Ahmed Architect 108

The Tomb of Qutub-din Aibak

BAZAAR BUZZ

The Legend of

110

The story of the doomed romance between Anarkali and Mughal Emperor Jehangir has captivated generations of listeners but historians are not entirely convinced of its veracity. Differences abound not just on the details – with some arguing that Anarkali was never entombed by Akbar and instead, was allowed to escape through a secret tunnel – but on the very existence of the courtesan.

According to some accounts, the tomb was actually built for Jehangir’s wife Sahib Jamal who died in Lahore in 1599, the year inscribed on the commemorative plaque located inside the monument. The name ‘Anarkali’, meaning ‘pomegranate blossom’ is thought to have come from the pomegranate trees in the garden outside.

While we may never know the real story behind the legend of Anarkali, what we can gather from the following verse inscribed on the tomb is that whoever the woman was, she was someone Jehangir held close to his heart.

“I would give thanks unto my God on the day of resurrection Ah! Could I behold the face of my beloved once more.”

Anarkali’s tomb, a magnificent example of Mughal architecture, has, over the years, served various purposes. During Sikh rule, it was gifted as a residence by Maharaja Ranjit Singh to crown prince Kharak Singh and was then in use by Ranjit Singh’s Italian military officer, General Ventura.

In colonial times, the tomb served as the Anglican church of St. James from 1851 to the 1880s.

Currently, it lies within the compound of the Civil Secretariat and houses the Punjab Archives.

Photography: Ubaid-ur-Rehman

WANDERBUZZ BAZAAR ER

A

Walkthrough

Bangle Bazaar

By Danial Shah

Hyderabad’s Bangle Market is a kaleidoscope of colour and a testament to the skill of the generational craftsmen who produce its vibrant wares.

112

Photography: Danial Shah

BAZAAR BUZZ

ight kilometres south of main Shahi Qila Chowk, the crowded streets of Hyderabad, teeming with rickshaws, cars and motorbikes, converge on to a cloth market that is much like any bazaar you would find elsewhere in the country – a collection of concrete buildings with apartments on the top floors and tiny shops along the street, displaying their merchandise on the footpath. Swathes of embroidered cloth flutter in the humid air while Chinese imports of cosmetics and accessories beckon luridly.

The pedestrian streets weaving through the market are not meant for vehicular traffic; my rickshaw driver deposits me a few blocks away and I complete the remainder of the distance on foot. The cloth market itself might be unremarkable but tucked within its depth is a unique landmark; and it is to photograph this marvel that I’ve undertaken the journey from my hometown Karachi despite the sweltering heat.

Amidst the congested stalls of the cloth bazaar, a tiny entrance leads to a narrow alley. There is no signboard and none is needed; just ask for ‘Choori Gali’ (Bangle Market) and dozens of hands will lift to point you in the right direction.

Row upon row of glittering bangles, in a mind-boggling array of colours and styles, greet me as I step inside the Choori Gali. The salesmen, lolling around shop fronts and engaging in banter given the lack of customers this early in the morning, suddenly snap to attention. “Aajai, baithay (come, sit),” they beckon, pointing to their display of beautiful ornaments set up behind glass counters. It doesn’t matter if you are a man or a woman; they seek everyone as a potential customer.

Hyderabad, Pakistan’s fourth largest city, is known for its handmade products but perhaps none define it better than bangles – that glittering ornament that no South Asian festivity is complete without. The city’s Choori Gali or Bangle Market is the largest wholesale bazaar of its kind in the country, consisting not only of shops selling the product but a huge network of manufacturing and designs units that produce bangles known for their high quality all over Pakistan.

The retail side of the market is primarily the narrow alley through which I entered, with around thirty shops on either side. Business is slow in the mornings, given the high temperatures that hit Hyderabad but once the sun goes down and the weather takes a turn for the better, shoppers begin to crowd around the colourful displays. “Men and women both are our customers. The men buy for their wives or sisters who cannot make it to the market while our primary costumers are women,” says Mohammad Ayub, who owns a small shop in the market.

Walking down the street, I am greeted by the tantalizing aroma of samosas and pakoras being fried next to tea-stalls and eventually exit into an open area flanked by buildings that house the small factories.

114

115

WANDERBUZZ BAZAAR ER

116

117

WANDERBUZZ BAZAAR ER

118

“The production cycle of the bangle, from manufacturing to retail, goes through 20 to 30 stages depending on style and design.�

119

BAZAAR BUZZ

The modern-day glass bangle began manufacturing around a hundred years ago in a small town called Firozabad in Uttar Pradesh, India.

120

BAZAAR BUZZ Unlike the shopping street, this part of the bazaar is characterized by frenzied activity. Men of all ages are busy at work. I barely move out of the way as a four-wheeled cart loaded with bundles of bangles lumbers down the path. Nearby, a teenaged boy whistles loudly to signal his approaching arrival as he carries glass bangles threaded into a rope.

Trucks stand ready in the centre of the square, loaded with boxes that are to be sent to other parts of the country. This bustle continues throughout the day.

The smell I encounter here is unlike the familiar aroma of fried delicacies I had chanced upon earlier; it is pungent and chemical in nature. The source, I discover, is the ‘liquid gold’ that is being used by artisans to coat the glass bangles.

From here, they are carted off to the furnace factories located right behind the market where the bangles are arranged in a single layer and ‘baked’ inside huge ovens to give the liquid gold a desired temperature, whereby it attains its original glittering sheen. “The production cycle of the bangle, from manufacturing to retail, goes through 20 to 30 stages depending on style and design,” reveals Azhar.

“We get plain bangles from the factories, we sort them out by weight and size, take them for cutting and design work and then sell them in the wholesale market,” says Khalid Raza Mirza, who runs a small wholesale business in the market.

Khalid is well-versed in the trade, for he has been a bangle-seller all his life. It’s what he grew up seeing his father do as well. “I have seen a lot of changes in the business for the years. Now we have modern machinery to make the bangles which has increased production rates,” he says. “It used to be manual till a few years ago, but technology has made it easier and also more innovative. We have machines that can emboss different patterns and designs on bangles,” he adds.

The salesmen particularly look forward to the month of Ramazan, especially the days after the tenth roza, as Eid shopping reaches a frantic pace and women crowd the market looking for the perfect accessory to One of them was a man match their Eid finery. named Rustum Ustad, not only The known history of bangles as a form of ornamentation can be dated back to 5,000 years ago, based on the remains of a dancing girl statute found at a Mohenjodaro excavation site in Sindh. The modern-day glass bangle, however, began manufacturing around a hundred years ago in a small town called Firozabad in Uttar Pradesh, India. After partition, many of the craftsmen and artisans who were part of the bangle industry migrated to Pakistan and settled in Hyderabad.

a craftsman par excellence but also a shrewd businessman. He can be credited for initiating the bangle-producing industry in Hyderabad, for he was the first of Firozabad’s artisans to set up production in the new country. His grandson, Azhar Hussain Siddique, is currently the representative of the union office of the Bangle Market.

“There are around 2,000 shops in the area that are associated with bangle production,” says Azhar.

“When my father started off, there were only about ten shops here but now close to twenty hundred thousand men and women in Hyderabad are associated with the work.”

The sound of tinkling glass holds my attention and I look around to see a few workers huddled around a small glass bottle. They take a bangle and hit it on the bottle and based on the sound it makes, can tell if the bangle is broken or intact. The ones deemed fit for further processing are coated with the liquid gold by artisans who use special brushes to create intricate designs.

122

Since bangles are favoured by women during all festive occasions – be it weddings, parties or Eid – the business runs throughout the year, though peak times are usually before the festivals of Eid or during December, which is wedding season. The salesmen particularly look forward to the month of Ramazan, especially the days after the tenth roza, as Eid shopping reaches a frantic pace and women crowd the market looking for the perfect accessory to match their Eid finery. “The market is open throughout the night on Chand Raat and that’s when we make the most sales," says Khalid.

I am told that the latest trend in bangle-design is to have the wearer’s name engraved on the ornament and these are favoured particularly during weddings. Such designs are made only on special order, though. The more traditional types of bangles are the Sath Rangi (seven coloured) or Panch Rangi (five coloured).

By now the sun is setting and the market has lit up, making its displays look even more vibrant.

Shoppers start to trickle in as I head out, the images of the colourful and festive chooriyan fresh in my mind.

123

LET’S DISH

124

of

(or two or three)

sugar...

By Sonya Rehman

With Eid festivities right around the corner, DESTINATIONS delves into the history of ‘mithai’, the quintessential sweet treat that defines the occasion.

LET’S DISH here’s nothing more soul-satisfying than slicing your spoon through a perfectly round, wobbly-soft gulab jamun set in a sizzling little katori (bowl) filled with sweet syrup, piping hot. Scrumptious. Decadent. The combination of powdered milk, ghee, sugar, love and heat gives rise to little bites of heaven, and if it were up to you, seconds and thirds would be immediately summoned. Gulab jamuns: the food of kings, the sweet nasha, the…okay, I’m overdoing it, but you get the drift – the power of the gulab jamun is a compelling force.

The birth of these delicious golf ball-sized treats can be attributed to the Persian- speaking invaders of India; little wonder then that the word ‘gulab’ is derived from the Persian words ‘gol’ (flower) and ‘ab’ (water). ‘Jamun’ on the other hand, is the sub-continental name for Syzgium jambolanum – the purple summer fruit. Legend goes that the gulab jamun was accidently whipped up by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan’s personal chef.

But wait…my obsession with gulab jamuns has made me digress, for this piece is not just about ‘one’ particular desi sweet, rather, the whole caboodle of mithai and its variations as a whole.

Whether it’s celebrating the birth of a baby, a new job, straight A’s in school, clean-sweeps for political parties during elections or fostering a feeling of goodwill between nations, mithai is synonymous with joy and victory, signifying a new path and happier days to come.

Last year, according to the newspaper Dawn, Pakistani border troops, despite ongoing political tensions with India, gifted mithai to their Indian counterparts at the Wagah Border in celebration of the Hindu festival of lights, Diwali. Heartwarming.

Talk about weapons of mass sweetness.

In his 2011 book, ‘Sweet Invention: A History of Dessert’ , food historian Michael Krondl traces the history of desserts from the subcontinent, the Middle East and beyond. An incredible book that attempts to map out the birth and evolution of desserts through the decades, it states that the first mention of rice pudding (known as payasam) was discovered in a Jain- Buddhist text dating back to 400 BCE. On the other hand, jalebi – still immensely popular and much-loved in the subcontinent - was first written about in 1450 in India. According to Krondl, a British author and administrator in the Indian Civil 126

Service, Horace Arthur Rose, wrote extensively (in the late 19th century) about the importance of sweets in Indian Muslim culture in the Punjab, where he was based on assignment. “Rose detailed, for example, the elaborate offer and counteroffer involved in Muslim engagement rituals and weddings,” Krondl writes.

The customs involving mithai that Rose wrote about have been set in stone for decades; still carried out in a majority of traditional Muslim homes across the world.

“In one district,” Krondl writes, “The sweets were always a mixture of patasha and nuqul (both candies) along with cardamom. The details of the ceremonies and the specific sweetmeats varied from region to region, but they were always there. They might be khajars, fritters shaped like dates made of wheat flour and coarse sugar, or chobba, a dish of sweet rice. In one district, 101 laddus were presented to a bride’s family once the engagement was confirmed.”

Sound familiar?

For Raza Abbas, a young Pakistani food consultant and restaurateur based in Dubai, doodh rabri remains his childhood favourite go-to desi sweet treat. “I get it from one of the most underrated sweet shops in Lahore, Mahmood Sweets,” he says, “The shop is an absolute gem in disguise. The velvety smooth texture of the rich rabri is scrumptious enough to satisfy the most refined of palates.”

From bright yellow moti choor laddus being popped into the mouths of brides and their grooms on their giddy, colourful mehndi ceremonies, to an assortment of mithai being served at Eid, Diwali and even Christmas, on silver trays and fine china, no holiday, celebration or joy is complete without some desi sweetness.

On the other hand, Hareem Sumbul, a finance professional from Lahore (currently based in Karachi), is a die-hard fan of badaayun ke paerray, a moderately sweet mithai made out of khoya.

“One of my fondest memories from childhood was summer guests bearing gifts”, Sumbul states, “Badaayun ke paerray would make an appearance whether it was family visiting from Karachi or

returning home. The dark brown, sweetened discs of luscious goodness would melt in your mouth with the hint of salt giving away its association with the city by the sea. To this day, the thought of that silver foil-wrapped box makes me try to remember what it tastes like, though it is an experience akin to a trip to Anarkali in Lahore. A nostalgic labyrinth of taste dementia is what I call it, though it's always such a pleasure to rediscover it each time.”

127

LET’S DISH

“I love the moti choor laddu for its happy yellow colour but even more for its evocative silky texture so aptly captured in its poetic name – crumbled pearls.”

From the rich desi doughnut – the deep fried, glazed balushahi (popular not just in Pakistan, but India and Nepal as well), to multi-coloured, squishy coconut-y cham cham (a traditional Bengali sweet), gajar ka halwa, kheer, skinny, crunchy jalebi, soft kalakand, barfi, pera, flaky patisa, chilled, creamy rasmalai set in cold clay pots, the popular desi version of ice cream – kulfi (set long on sticks or cut up in thick, chunky blocks), the mouth-wateringly sticky-sweet sohan halwa (squeezed into round tin boxes from Multan) and more…the list of South Asian desserts are endless, diverse and thoroughly unique vis-à-vis their flavours, textures and colours.

Each piece has a story that is fused with culture, religion, heritage and above all, identity.

“I love the moti choor laddu for its happy yellow colour but even more for its evocative silky texture so aptly captured in its poetic name – crumbled pearls,” says Soniah Kamal, US-based author of the award-winning novel “An Isolated Incident”. “As an immigrant child, my returning to Lahore for summer holidays will forever be associated with looking forward to rows of fat golden laddus nestled in bright red boxes with silver ribbons. Joy.” While every main city in Pakistan has continued to see the rise of a number of fast food joints and restaurants catering to non-desi cuisine, good old desi fare and its desserts aren’t going to be passed up anytime soon.

Bored of fancy restaurant and café hopping, one is consistently lured back in to the magic of desi spices and sweet concoctions. That one long drive down Mall Road in Lahore, in search of that one particular shop that offers the best gulab jamun or kulfi in all of Pakistan, tucked away amidst pre-partition trees and post-colonial architecture, that one bite, that one morsel – and the connection to culture is sealed.

128

LET’S DISHOF GOOD A WORLD

Halal Dim Sum?

That and so much more

in

Hong Kong

By Mehvesh Mumtaz Ahmed

132

Hong Kong is characterized by its iconic

skyline, frenetic energy, gorgeous hiking trails – and utterly fantastic food. With Eid upon us, food, of course becomes paramount. If you’re a traveller who eats only halal, travel can mean severely limited options. However, if you’re coming to Hong Kong for Eid holidays (or just passing through later), fret not: you can still enjoy some of the best meals in one of world’s top culinary capitals. Here are some options to get you started.

LET’S DISH

Ma’s / Islam Food Technically these are two separate restaurants so we are cheating a bit here, but they both serve mouth-wateringly delicious Xinjian food. Nestled in the historic Kowloon City district, Islam Food is quite the local tourist attraction, but Ma’s is a notch better in our opinion. Also, you can reserve a table at Ma’s, which means no wait time when you’re famished. If you’re a meat lover, you will love the veal goulash: flat dumplings filled with minced lamb steamed in its own soup. The sliced lamb with cilantro is another crowd favourite, while the crunchy noodles with black pepper beef beats any chop suey served in Pakistan. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the sesame soup noodles and wasabi prawns. They even have a surprisingly yummy version of beef yakhni (stock), nourishing protein and hydration in one dish.

134

Pure Veggie House Wait, don’t skip just because this place is vegetarian. The Chinese really know how to make their vegetables irresistible, and Pure Veggie House is exceptionally good at making you forget all about meat.

Try the bamboo shoots in Sichuan chilli oil, the truffle oil fried rice, mushrooms pockets, the deliciously saucy Ma Po tofu, and stir-fried beancurd sticks with black pepper.

Afterwards, head down to Soho for dessert (and people watching). The pistachio ice cream at XTC is the best we’ve had anywhere in the world.

135

LET’S DISH

Zuma

If you are craving that fancy dinner or Sunday brunch, this hip restaurant offers up fantastic contemporary Japanese cuisine in a gorgeous interior. Definitely dress up for this place! Their sushi and sashimi is very good, of course, but if you’re in the mood for warmer fare, you must try their miso marinated black cod wrapped in hoba beef, crispy tempura prawns, and seared beef or beef tenderloin with sesame and sweet soy (Zuma’s beef is halal). The green tea banana cake with coconut ice cream and peanut toffee sauce is the proverbial cherry on top.

If you want a more active Hong Kong experience while enjoying good food, there’s plenty to explore. Grab an avocado and pine-nut wrap or a chicken sandwich from Pret a Manger (their chicken is halal) and take a sunset jaunt to the Peak to take in one of the most beautiful blends of nature and urban. The changing sunlight reflecting off Hong Kong buildings’ glass facades while electric lights brighten against a darkening sky, set against a backdrop of rolling green hills, is breathtakingly beautiful.

Looking for some retail therapy? Head to Causeway Bay to explore the widest range of shopping from local Hong Kong boutiques to the best global designers to massive Uniqlo, Muji and H&M stores, and then walk over to the Islamic Centre Canteen in Wanchai for an authentic (and halal!) dim sum lunch.

Or, if you’re in a beach frame of mind, head to the stunning Tong Fuk Beack on South Lantau and grab some of the best pizza and steak in town at The Gallery. Don’t forget to ask for the Tong Fuk pizza: a super-thin crust base topped with jalapeno peppers, dabs of blue cheese, olives and mozzarella. Their tuna steak, barbequed on a proper fired grill, is sashimi-grade and best had rare. It comes with a side of Mediterranean salad and au gratin potatoes.

Where to find them Ma’s: 21-25 Cheung Sha Wan Road, Sham Shui Po. Tel: 2787 6108. Reservation recommended.

Islam Food: 1 Lung Kong Road, Kowloon City.

Tel: 2382 2822. They don’t take reservations.

Pure Veggie House: 3rd Floor, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road, Mid-Levels.

Tel: 2525 0552.

They take reservations. Walk-in is fine as long as you are okay with a 10-15 minute wait time.

Zuma: Level 5 & 6, Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central. Tel: 3657 6388.

Reservation highly recommended.

Chilli Fagara: 7 Old Bailey Street, Central. Tel: 2796 6866.

Reservation highly recommended.

Pret a Manger: Various locations as listed online. Take-away or dine-in.

Islamic Centre Canteen: 5th Floor, Osman Ramju Sadick Islamic Centre, 40 Oi Kwan Road, Wanchai. Tel: 2834 8211. Reservation not needed, but please show up 15 minutes before iftar.

Added bonus: you can say Maghrib prayers in the roomy, high-ceilinged prayer rooms in the same building with a diverse group of Muslims from Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, with a smattering of Arabs and South Asians.

The Gallery: 28 South Lantau Road, Lantau Island. Tel: 2980 2582.

Reservation highly recommended.

137

A WORLD OF GOOD

Building Interfaith

Bonds

By Shehla Zakaullah

Ramadan is most fun in Boston host to America’s youngest population.

138

Founded in 1630, Boston is one of the oldest cities in the United States and home to the largest proportion of young adults of any major US city. 20 to 34 year olds make up more than a third of Boston’s population, with even more in Cambridge (of Harvard and MIT universities fame 44.5%) and Somerville (near Harvard and Tufts universities - 44%). These young Bostonians grew up here or move here for the renowned schools or for work.

In Greater Boston, there are over 50,000 Muslims including African-Americans, converts, and short and long-term immigrants from all over the world served by fifty different mosques, schools, and community organizations. The greater Boston metropolitan area is also home to more than 250,000 students including a sizable number of Muslim students. Many students, professionals and research scholars are single or transient, in town for a short period of time without their families. While the suburban Muslim immigrant families host sumptuous iftar parties at their sprawling luxury homes, free and open to the community iftars at Boston mosques, universities and interfaith groups make it a month-long entertaining event for the young and single urban Muslims and many urban families.

Thanks to Muslim Students’ Associations and area mosques, Boston Muslims have a wonderful network of support to ease into for Ramadan. Most evenings, Muslim students and community members come together at one of these venues for breaking fast, praying, bonding and hanging out. All these entities host Eid parties as well.

University Islamic societies or MSAs (affiliates of the national Muslim Students’ Association) at Harvard, MIT, Boston University, Northeastern, Wentworth Institute, Suffolk University, University of Massachusetts Boston, and Tufts University all offer free and open to the public iftars throughout Ramadan. Each evening, a diverse group gathers at a host venue including students from smaller colleges such as the six Colleges of the Fenway including Simmons, Emmanuel and MASSART. You run into fellow iftar hoppers all over town and end up being friends by the end of the month.

I am a recent transplant from Houston to Boston.

While I visit family and friends in Houston and other cities in North America throughout the year, I prefer a quiet and low-key Ramadan and, consequently, the Eid al Fitr at home base. As a newbie in my first year here, missing immediate family and old friends, I stepped out looking to engage with my new hometown’s Muslim community and to explore the mosques and stumbled upon the heart-warming and soul-stirring Ramadan social scene. The rest is history. I have to admit that in my second Ramadan last year I had but a couple of iftars at home!

139

A WORLD OF GOOD

Photography: Shehla Zakaullah

Islamic Society of Boston Cultural Center (ISBCC) The largest mosque; the highlight of 2015 Ramadan was the most beautiful Quran recitation in taraweeh led by a young Egyptian imam flown in specially.

Yusuf Mosque in Brighton This is my area mosque where I end up most Ramadan evenings, and offer Eid prayers. I find great comfort in the small, simple and warm community and the intimate home-like setting. With beautiful calligraphy murals in the main hall, Yusuf Mosque gets the medal of distinction for volunteer dedication, organization and service during Ramadan.

The founder members, key die-hard individuals and families work hard preparing and setting up food, cleaning and welcoming all Muslims and non-Muslim friends every single night. Yusuf Mosque also flew in an imam from the Middle East to lead taraweeh in 2015 with the most melodious recitation. The imam and us, the congregation, wept, praying together on the “Khatam Quran� night, the first such experience in my life.

140

If you are in town you can hit up one of these free and open to the community iftar, dinner and prayer opportunities. Non-Muslim friends are welcome. For further details and to RSVP visit their Facebook pages.

Harvard Longwood Iftar Sponsored by The Harvard Chan School of Public Health MSA and Harvard Medical School MSA, on Fridays MIT Muslim Student Association Daily iftars and taraweeh Islamic Society of Boston University Monday through Thursday iftars and taraweeh Catered food from Pakistani and other favourite restaurants, Marsh Chapel Basement Islamic Society of Boston in Cambridge Islamic Center of Boston is located in Wayland, the beautiful suburban mosque attended by many families from as far as neighbouring states.

Islamic Society of Northeastern University Monday through Thursday free Iftar and taraweeh Food catered from Irani, Turkish, Arab and Pakistani restaurants.

Tufts Muslim Chaplaincy Hosts Ramadan meals (iftar) at sunset at the Tufts Interfaith Center (58 Curtis St. Medford).

Islamic Society of Boston Cultural Center (ISBCC) Every Friday and Saturday New Muslims and Friends iftar, followed by a discussion and dinner.

Islamic Center of Boston in Wayland Every Saturday Islamic Society of Boston in Cambridge Intermittent nights Yusuf Mosque in Brighton Daily 141

n w o t n B ea

A WORLD OF GOOD

Boston boasts robust interfaith activities. I am involved with several interfaith groups, individuals and activities involving the three Abrahamic faiths. It is heartening to receive Ramadan Kareem messages from non-Muslim friends at the beginning of the month and touching when Jewish and Christian friends host iftars for their Muslim friends. On July 6, 2015, Anne Myers, a Muslim student at Harvard Divinity School and my Jewish friend Jill Smith, a lecturer at Tufts University hosted a joint Ramadan and Fast of Tammuz Break-fast in Cambridge, MA. My Orthodox Jewish friend Tobias Novak also hosted a joint 17th of Tammuz/Ramadan Break-fast at his apartment on the same evening and later, an iftar on June 26th. Tobias is planning to host an iftar again this year.

Center for Inter-Religious and Communal Leadership Education (CIRCLE), a joint interfaith programme of Andover Newton Theological School and Hebrew College in Newton, a Boston suburb, (I am a past CIRCLE Fellow) also hosted an iftar and an Eid party.

The words “free food” bring a gleam to the eye of the university student, put a smile on the face and quicken the pace, making Ramadan in Boston so much better. There is lots to do and see in this beautiful city so if Ramadan is the only time you can make it here do not let it hold you back from visiting Beantown.

142

kname orous nic urite m la g n a favo ss th settlers’ ed its le n r ly r a a e e n e th s. Baked Bosto because ed bean k ” a n and b w d to e n “Bea urite list s-soak o e v s s fa la e o h m Trail, on t dish was ger tops ved for Freedom mous n lo o n re and lo e epony , beans a w known rs the bar of th o n is arket n e Bosto uincy M , Che n Q o d h n t a a r a all Boston M istoric Fannuil H Church, Copley h , , ity w in o r T h Gardens and TV s Church d Public n h t a e u s h o t n S o Old omm d with Boston C Italian North En try, major Square, e as h P t arbor, Mike’s ll), Boston H up at the iconic ed Sox (baseba R e n n s li to in t s u is o r r tou ms B ton B ports tea ketball) and Bos tons of league s s a a reet nd ltics (b t s e C y r n u b to s Bo New the chic s. b (hockey), u p nts and restaura

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

144

The Last

Bell Makers

By Salman Rashid

The tiny village of Sheikh Wahin in Bahawalnagar, Lower Punjab is home to a dying craft.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

The sun has just dipped beneath the dunes, setting the western horizon ablaze. Overhead, a coppertoned waxing moon hangs against the first stars of night. The sand, already beginning to cool, tempers the desert air soughing through the branches of the kundi tree where four or five owlets engage in a nattering argument. The day done for him, Allah Vasaya leans back against the bolster on his charpoy under the kundi.

From the direction of the toba – the pond that slakes man and beast alike – he hears the clangour of livestock bells and he recognises the deep, resonant bhoongan sound of the one his prized bull wears. The animals are drinking for the night and soon the bull will lead the rest of Allah Vasaya’s livestock home.

Minutes later, the ringing becomes a medley of sounds from the bells of his cows and the smaller ones worn by sheep and goats.

The ability to recognise the sound of the bell – tull as it is called in Seraiki and Punjabi – on his lead animal is not a gift endowed upon Allah Vasaya alone. It is something every livestock owner in Cholistan can do with ease. Indeed, from the desert in the east to the canal-irrigated region of Bahawalnagar and the districts in the south, livestock owners have the same ear for animal bells. And everyone knows the best bells come from the little village of Sheikh Wahin near Chishtian in Bahawalnagar district.

The elderly Faiz Baksh of Sheikh Wahin says his family has been in metallurgy for ten generations and more, that is, a little over two hundred and fifty years. Time was when the family’s major production

was swords and shields. In the early 19th century the family was also gun smithing and had become quite adept at the craft. Post-1947, says Baksh, this latter was completely given up.

It was the family’s mastery in producing bells that won it renown, however. This is a craft they have practiced for more than a century. Says Faiz Baksh that he can produce two of the large bhoongan bells of exactly the same weight, yet the tenor of each will differ. He says that even if neighbouring livestock owners used those on their animals, both would be able to differentiate the ring of the tull.

Baksh says bells come in three sizes. The large one for camels or lead cattle; medium for herd members and the smallest for goats and sheep. While the medium and small ones may not necessarily produce differing tones, it is essential, says Baksh, that the sound of each large bell be discrete from every other, even if in a barely noticeable degree.

According to the man, this fine difference is created by the coating of brass that goes on the finished raw item.

In a street in the heart of Sheikh Wahin, three young men recline against a wall hammering away at pieces of iron set against steel lasts to give them the bell shape. Bells of all sizes are crafted in two different parts: the cylindrical lower end is one, while the cap-shaped top with the suspending loop fits on the lower. Both parts are not riveted, rather hammered together. To create a stronger bond for the greater weight of the large bell, the jointing is done over fire.

Faiz Baksh

says he and his

relatives

are the last bell

makers in

lower Punjab

and their famous wares every evening herald the returning livestock from Bahawalnagar to villages in Rahim Yar Khan and Dera Ghazi Khan, three hundred kilometres away.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK The bell, with bits of brass around its body, is liberally slathered with a coat of clay and arranged on a bed of coals in a shallow, circular baking oven. The furnace is so primitive that it may not have changed since they first began using it during the Harappan heyday. Several dozen clay-coated bells are arranged in the oven and covered over with coals.

Since nothing is done manually nowadays, a motorcycle with its rear wheel raised above ground is rigged to a blower turbine to fan the furnace.

Within minutes of fanning the coals glow an evil yellow-orange and I estimate the temperature rises to well over 800 degrees Celsius. After about forty minutes of baking, the top layer of coals is hauled off to reveal that the clay on the bells has turned into blackened slag. With hoe-like implements, the men set to separating the slag covered bells and wait for them to cool. The outer slag is smashed and out come burnished little bells.

Faiz Baksh says that the brass plating of the large bells is more difficult as each piece has to be brass-plated separately. He also tells me that after a few years of use, the large bells lose their tenor. They are then returned to his workshop to be reconditioned. Once again the bell receives the brass plating treatment and is again as good as new.

The furnace is so primitive that it may not have changed since they first began using it during the Harappan heyday.

148

Following the plating process, the ready bells are fitted with the clapper – the lara (palatal r). In Punjabi and Seraiki, this is the cognate for bridegroom and as a wedding is never replete without this all important protagonist, so too the bell without its lara, explains Faiz Baksh. The smaller models come with metallic laras; the ones used on cattle and camels have wooden ones.

We are told that the bhoongan model can cost up to Rs 10,000. And that time was when bells supplied at calving time were recompensed with a cow. But today things are so bad, Faiz Baksh says wistfully, he has to buy his supply of wheat flour on a daily basis.

He is somewhat circumspect about the reason of the industry’s privation until one of the hangers-on lets out that the middleman who supplies the ready ware to the market skims off the major profit.

This man, whose name I never asked, sitting serenely on the charpoy next to me and never divulging his role smiles sheepishly. Why, the bell-makers are so poor they cannot procure raw materials in bulk and he provides them everything on credit. If he refused to play ball, they would go out of business, he says. It is therefore his right to take the ready products.

But not at the cut-throat price he offers the craftsmen, says the interlocutor who had just given away our villain. The man lamely tries to justify his loan-shark role but no one buys it. He looks at me and grins. The grin refuses to fade.

Faiz Baksh says he and his relatives are the last bell makers in lower Punjab and their famous wares every evening herald the returning livestock from Bahawalnagar to villages in Rahim Yar Khan and Dera Ghazi Khan, three hundred kilometres away.

But they barely make a living, existing on the goodwill of the grinning loan shark who will forever hold them in monetary thrall.

But Faiz Baksh and his clan know that the people of Cholistan will forever remain livestock and camel herders. And forever and the day, they will need the bells to tell them if it is their animal or the neighbour’s they hear headed back to the village.

The craft will never die. Even if they have to buy food on a daily basis, the elderly craftsman knows that his clan will forever continue to make their bells.

WANDERER

In the

Footsteps of History

By Azeem Ahmed Khan

From the Paleolithic Stone Age to the Gandhara period and the subsequent Hindu Shahi and Muslim eras, the Soan Valley houses remnants of a glorious past.

Photography: Azeem Ahmed Khan

150

I

n many ways the Soan Valley is the embodiment of Pakistan – beautiful, diverse, confusing and inexplicably neglected. It is a land of many riches yet hardly ever figures into travel plans.

Affordable, accessible and endlessly compelling, a journey through Soan Valley is like visiting a foreign country, the likes of which would be hard to imagine existed.

The Soan Valley is an area measuring 780 square kilometer, located in the northwestern part of district Khushab in Punjab. Sher Shah Suri coined the name of the area due to the sweetness of its water (Khush-ab). The valley and its surroundings boast some extensively rich history. Soan is now considered home to what might be the earliest civilization in human history, as evidenced by the recent discoveries of ancient stone tools here. It goes with the nature of this place that such a significant finding would go almost unnoticed.

Gripped by a desire to explore this beautiful area and discover the ruins of Hindu temples and Buddhist stupas that I knew existed here, I left Lahore with my friends Ali and Hasan for a three-day trip. We had booked a room at the Sakesar PAF Base, the highest and the

farthest point of the valley, and planned to use it as a base for excursions into the valley.

There are many ways to get to Soan Valley and most take around 6 hours from Lahore to Sakesar. Our first stop was meant to be the Kanhati Gardens, built by the British in the 1930s.

I had heard of a waterfall there and we proceeded to it in the hopes of beating the heat with some fresh, cold water.

To describe the terrain of the valley is next to impossible since there is seemingly no set characteristic to it. It resembles the American Wild West in some places, the Australian Outback in others and there are even hints of the rolling green meadows of the English countryside in several places.

One moment we were driving though a forest, only to find ourselves on a vast plateau next, flanked by a barren hill on one side and the vast, unending plains of Punjab on the other. It was beautiful and bewildering at the sametime and ensured that the journey never became monotonous.

151

WANDERER

Chambal Mandir Around 30km before Kanhati Gardens we spotted a board indicating the direction for Chambal Mandir.

There was no mention of such a temple on Google Maps or on the web. But since there was a sign, we decided there simply had to be an actual temple as well. Asking for directions from the first people we encountered, we set off down the canyon.

It seemed like a strange place for a temple. The path downwards was quite steep and we had to climb over rocks all the way to the bottom. The only sound we could hear was the loud and melodious chirping of birds. Around 15 minutes later, we suddenly came upon a leafy part of the mountain and the songs of the birds amplified. Scores of colourful butterflies whirled around us in a frenzy, like something out of a fairytale. There was a rusted iron gate in front of us and what looked like fortified walls around it. We were disappointed because it looked nothing like the temple we had imagined. The trees were beautiful though, and to get a better view I climbed atop the wall. To my delight, inside the walls was an actual temple!

152

A serene pool of water lay in the middle of the structure, surrounded by more greenery than I had ever laid my eyes on. The trees were massive, especially the Buddha trees, and their size and girth left little doubt that this place was centuries old. The temple grounds were built as terraces on the edge of the cliff and at the bottom, was a small stream of water whose sound echoed throughout due to the narrowness of the canyon. Birds of several colours could be seen flying around. It was a nature lover’s paradise. The arduous hike back to the top of the canyon explained the low profile of the temple but we were not complaining. Chambal Mandir was the cleanest and greenest part of our whole trip, free from the litter that defaces natural beauty.

A few minutes away from the temple was the shrine of a pir and we gave it a cursory look. Preparations were underway for an urs after sundown and men, women and children could be seen gearing up for a celebration. We saw numerous shrines during the trip, which indicated the large presence of Sufi leaders in centuries past – yet another reaffirmation of the area’s historical significance.

Kanhati Gardens The gardens are located about 9km into a side road from the main Naushera-Jaba road, a route that presented stunning vistas. After a series of tough but rewarding side expeditions, what awaited us was the perfect culmination to a hot and heavy day. The gardens were beautiful, as most British-era gardens usually are. The highlight, though, was the waterfall and the view that preceded it.

An endless sea of strange red rocks met the eye wherever it searched, interspersed with some green shrubbery and what looked like the white remains of what once used to be a river. The brain was unable to make sense of it all. It did not need to. Just gazing at this strangely mesmeric view was enough. Yet this was not even the best view of the next hour.

The waterfall was a let-down at first. The pool at the bottom was used as a garbage dump and hence was completely unappealing.

However, I climbed up to the top and was stunned by what lay before me. After the long hike under the blazing sun, God had prepared for me the perfect denouement to the day – a Jacuzzi by the sunset full of clear, clean water. It even had a natural jet of water that kept a constant stream in and out of the Jacuzzi. I had uncomfortably lugged a watermelon during the walk and it was the perfect food to eat in such a setting.

153

WANDERER

Ambh Sharif The next morning we had an early breakfast at the Sakesar PAF base, with a view of the adjacent Namal Valley and headed to Ambh Sharif, the location of the famous Hindu temple on Sakesar Mountain. It was about an hour’s drive from the base on the road to Quaidabad. The drive this time was not through a plateau or valley but around crimson mountains laced with purple and yellow rocks.

Ambh Sharif actually derives its name from a shrine located about five minutes away from the better-known Hindu temples – a great example of religious harmony and coexistence. The temples are architectural marvels and are believed to be more than a thousand years old, dating back to the Hindu Shahi period from 615-960 CE. The smaller structure is set on the edge of the cliff while the bigger, multi-storied building is about 50 yards further. The setting gives the temples an extra touch of divinity, as if perched on the pinnacle of a mountain amongst the clouds of Eden.

The sheer size and complexity of the temples was an eye opener. The brick and mortar structures made the carvings and designs seem even more intricate and extensive.

Unfortunately, the walls had been stripped of the statues that had once adorned them. Gaping holes in the exterior also pointed to the presence of precious gems in the past and the locals confirmed this.

Steep stairs leading up an adjacent mountain uncovered more ruins. Upon inquiry, the locals told us that this was probably the mansion of an ancient king who ruled the area and the temples were built for his private use. This may not be historically accurate as the supposed mansion’s completely ruined state suggested that it predated the temples. The mystery, however, can only be solved by digging for further remains. The fact that such magnificent temples in such a stunning location can be ignored, is astonishing. A rich history, an ethereal setting and complex masonry make it the perfect candidate to be labelled a UNESCO World Heritage site; yet, most Pakistanis don’t even know of its existence.

The temples are architectural marvels and are believed to be more than a thousand years old, dating back to the Hindu Shahi period from 615-960 CE.

154

Sakesar

The Sakesar base was built in the 1950s and is beautifully designed in conjunction with the topography of the area. It was an oasis of calm, despite the presence of a large number of guests.

This was due to the extremely high number of trees which not only housed birds that chirped merrily all day but also covered the terraces in such a way that you felt isolated in your own little world. Wild olive, apricot and pomegranate trees provided a lush green cover all around us.

Sunset at the saltwater lake Uchali, right beneath Sakesar, was a surreal experience. A narrow road has been built into the middle of the lake where a strong and pleasant breeze blows constantly. The sun disappeared behind the Sakesar Mountain just as it does in those seemingly quixotic children’s paintings.

We also found the remains of a gurduwara at the base. It had also been stripped of its jewels but some parts of the deliciously colourful wall paintings remained.

The dominant sound throughout the trip had been the soothing clank of cowbells. In some inexplicable way it provided a sense of calm, as if reassuring the traveller that this was a safe, domesticated place.

Being a city dweller brings with it a mistrust of strangers, but the people we met on the trip forced us to shed our misconceptions. Our queries and questions were never met with disdain, but with an enthusiastic and earnest response. The people exuded a relaxed and happy vibe; however, to assume this was so due to the lack of pressure the village people face is to know nothing of the perils of the small farmer.

The weather, topography and people of the region are considerably different from those of Central Punjab. The main language is Saraiki, spoken in a sing-song lilt. What is even more striking is the fact that we did not once encounter anyone playing cricket! Instead, volleyball was the sport of choice and it is said that Pakistan’s best players come from this region.

The Soan Valley and its adjacent areas are indeed a land within a land. From the Paleolithic Stone Age to the Gandhara period and the subsequent Hindu Shahi and Muslim eras, the valley has remnants of all and is a must-visit for lovers of history and culture. The Punjab government has promised to pump money into the area and make it a tourist spot and if the past is anything to go by, now is the time to visit before the inevitable desecration takes place.

155

TALK OF THE TOWN

KARACHI

Amir Khan

Boxing Star Amir Khan

Fundraiser International boxing star Amir Khan was recently in town to raise funds for the Amir Khan Trust, in order to provide clean drinking water to the citizens of Thar. HBL in collaboration with the 42-Day Challenge hosted a fundraiser in honour of the champion.

Nusrat and Komal

Mashall Khattak, Shazia Naz, Pheby Haroon and Kiran Butt

158

Ayesha Omar Sharmila Farooqui and Reema Siddiqui

Suhana Baloch and Saira Umer

Maimoona and Amir Khan

Sarwat Gillani and Ronak Lakhani

Adeel Chaudary

Shazia Naz and Mehwish Hayat

159

TALK OF THE TOWN

LONDON

Khadija Shah representing Sapphire

Pakistan

Fashion Week Pakistan Fashion Week London showcased the best of Pakistani style at a swanky two-day event held at the Grand Connaught Rooms. Brands such as Nida Azwer, Shamaeel Ansari, Sapphire and Gul Ahmed sent their latest collections down the ramp in front of an audience made up of London’s socialites as well as the Pakistani High Commissioner, His Excellency Syed Ibne Abbas, and his wife Sadaf Abbas.

Nida Azwer

Pakistani High Commissioner Syed Ibne Abbas with his wife Sadaf Abbas

160

Sana Fakher

Natasha and Hira

Shamaeel Ansari

Nabila

Chris, Adnan, Aamir and Sahiba

161

TALK OF THE TOWN

LSA Nominee

Mahira Khan

KARACHI

Reveal

Often termed the Oscars of Pakistan, the Lux Style Awards unveiled this year’s nominations at a star-studded ceremony held in Karachi. Hosted by Mahira Khan, the event was attended by top names from the world of fashion and entertainment.

Hasnain Lehri

Amna Babar

Amir Adnan

ltaf, Frieha A

162

yed and Shazia S

h Aslam

Fareshte

Zeb Bangash

Sania Maskatiya

Faizan Haqqee

Adnan Malik

Javed Sheikh

Yasir Hussain

Farhan Saeed and Urwa Hocane

163

Humayun and Samina Saeed

Fauzia Aman

164

Ahmad Ali Butt

Noor Hassan

Sana and Frayan

Nadia Hussain

A WORLD OF GOOD

TALK OF THE TOWN

Tasting at the

LAHORE

NISHAT

Naz and Iqraa Mansha hosted a tasting to launch the scrumptious summer menu at The Cube. Lahore’s glamorous socialites turned up all clad in cool, crisp whites to beat the scorching summer heat.

Nasreen Shiekh, Aamna Taseer, Melanie Saigol and Naz Mansha

Iqraa Mansha

Sabene Saigol, Jalal, Nooray Bhatti and Salma

Yasmine

Maheen Karim

Mariam, Ayesha, Khuban, Amina and Khadija

Attiya Noon

Erum Kamal

Mariam and Haiya

Sadaf Zarrar

168

Maheen Kardar

Jugnu and Mrs. Aslam

Ammara and Nelofer

Taniya and Momina

TALK OF THE TOWN

LAHORE

Launch of

Magnum’s Store Lahore got a star-studded dose of Magnum with the launch of its Pleasure Store in Z-Block, DHA. Answer your chocolate cravings with a serving of the most indulgent ice cream in town.

Zara, Hareem and Cybil

Maheen Kardar

170

Mohsin Ali

Umair Tabani