DESTINATIONS - Issue 8 - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine by DESTINATIONS

ISSUE #08

Hidden Gems uncovering Lahoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best kept secrets

contents. On the cover

p.54

ISSUE #08

A ROY AL odyssey

p. 64

THE

LLF A

CULTURAL

Affair

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF 26

Lahore’s Hidden Gems

This Used To Be My Playground

Of Princes, Palaces & Political Intrigues

A Royal Odyssey

The LLF: A Cultural Affair

Currently Reading

Lahore’s

HIDDEN p. 26

from the

suitcase ofMaria

Mahesar

p. 94

NEAR & AFAR 22 24

Destinations Desires Dream Destinations

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 78

p. 150

one to watch

How Deep Is Your Love?

A LIFE WORTH LIVING 86

#TravelistaPK Laila Premjee

STYLE RULES

OMER NABI MAN ON THE SCENE 94 104 114

From the Suitcase of Maria Mahesar The Huntsman Pastoral Romance

102

Q&A with Munib Nawaz

WANDERER 130

Malcolm Hutchesonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Postcards from Multan

VISIONARY 150

#TravelistaPK

p. 86

One To Watch - Omer Nabi

LEGENDS

Laila THE FASHION FIX Premjee 158

In Memorium - Habib Fida Ali

176

Brunch be Fabulous

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR : DESIGN & LAYOUT : OFFICIAL PHOTOGRAPHER : CIRCULATION : MEDIA SALES : KARACHI CORRESPONDENT: PUBLISHED BY :

LEGAL ADVISOR : GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER (DAEWOO) : CONTACT (SALES) :

CONTACT (EDITORIAL) : DISTRIBUTORS: PRINTERS :

destinationspk

MARIAM MUSHTAQ ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH USMAN MUNIR ZOHAIB AKHTAR UBAID-UR-REHMAN ALI TARIQ NAEEM ULLAH YASMEEN HASHMI Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma CHOWK, LAHORE, PAKISTAN +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 BASIT WAHEED WATTOO SHERIAR HASSAN USMAN HAYAT +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) naeem.ullah@daewoo.com.pk +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk +92 335 455 5764 (ALI TARIQ) NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY TOPICAL PRINTERS

destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

destinationspk

contributors Maliha Rehman

Kelsey Hoppe

Yusra Askari

Madeeha Syed

In Memorium Habib Fida Ali p.158

Lahore’s Hidden Gems p.26

#TravelistaPK Laila Premjee p.86

How Deep is Your Love p.78

Maliha Rehman has been a leading fashion and lifestyle journalist in Pakistan for more than a decade. She is currently a fashion correspondent for the country’s most widely-read English daily, Dawn and for the online portal dawn.com. In addition, her work features frequently in local and international magazines. Her critiques and analysis have made her an authority on Pakistan’s nascent fashion industry and her forte also lies in writing detailed profiles on some of the most sought-after celebrities in the horizon, sketching them into life with her words.

Kelsey Hoppe is a writer, editor and consultant based in the UK working in organisational development and security. She was based with her husband in Islamabad and Lahore for three years. She has lived and worked across South/East Asia, the former Soviet Union and East Africa and is also the lead editor and author of Chasing Misery: An Anthology of Essays by Women in Humanitarian Aid. Her next book: Don’t Panic! Staying Safe in Your Gap Year is due out in April 2017.

With a degree in textile design from the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture, Yusra Askari is a print and electronic media journalist, based in Karachi. Having begun her professional career teaching Art History at her alma mater, Yusra is now NDTV’s Pakistan Correspondent, doing her bit for better cross border ties, one story at time.

Madeeha Syed is a journalist, an awardwinning documentary filmmaker and radio correspondent constantly looking for excuses to travel. She hates heights but loves mountains; is a long-distance cyclist and certified one-star CMAS diver. And by the end of most trips, a broke backpacker.

Khawar Riaz A Royal Odyssey p. 54

editors note from the

We speak to Razi Ahmed, the LLF’s Founding Director and CEO, who explains how the organizers have managed to defy the odds and have for five successive years successfully hosted the event that brings together speakers not only from across Pakistan but the world over.

DESTINATIONS is proud to sponsor the 5th edition of the Lahore Literary Festival, an annual celebration of literature and the arts from Pakistan and the world over. Our mission mirrors that of the LLF – to showcase the diversity and dynamism of our country and its people – and it gives us great pleasure to be part of an inclusive and culturally stimulating event such as the LLF. Lahore’s past as the birthplace of new ideas, poetry and prose, manifestos and movements makes it a befitting site for the literary festival and as an ode to the city and to the LLF, we reached out to Kelsey Hoppe, one of the speakers at this year’s event, where she will also launch her book In Lahore: A Contemporary Guide to the City.

In an exclusive essay for DESTINATIONS, Hoppe reveals why she instantly fell in love with Lahore and where to go to discover its numerous hidden gems. In a follow-up feature, we trek through Lahore’s inner city to uncover the splendour of the oft-overlooked Nau Nihal Singh Haveli, a remnant of the Sikh rule in Punjab.

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Our next stop is Multan where, to celebrate the launch of its new metro line operated by Pakistan’s largest transport company Daewoo Express, acclaimed photographer Malcolm Hutcheson captures the city’s architectural marvels, cultural gems and traditional craft. Moving further down south, journalist and adventure-seeker Madeeha Syed goes diving into the wilderness that marks the Pakistani side of the Arabian Sea; while travelista Laila Premjee, artist and owner of Saturday Studio, talks about her work, travels and inspirations. Journalist Maliha Rehman pays tribute to legendary architect Habib Fida Ali who passed away earlier this year, leaving behind a legacy of a masterful approach to modern minimalist architecture. We wrap up this issue with a high-octane dose of fashion. Designer Munib Nawaz gets personal in a fun Q&A session and follows it up with a fashion shoot that showcases the raw natural beauty of Murree, where record snowfall this year transformed the colonial era-town into a hauntingly pure panorama. In contrast is the idyllic country retreat where couture creations by Elan and Fahd Hussayn are modelled by the gorgeous Anam Malik.

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH

FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

Kindle Oasis While the Kindle vs paperback debate is one that can go on forever, there’s no harm in embracing the e-reader, especially if you want to brush up on your literary pursuits with the Lahore Lit Fest right around the corner. With its ability to store thousands of books, you’ll have a wealth of knowledge literally at your fingertips. The latest model, the Kindle Oasis, is its lightest version yet, meaning that reading on the go will be super-easy.

Goliath A crime drama with a distinctly film noir vibe, Goliath is only one season old but has earned a loyal following. Starring Billy Bob Thornton, it centers around a washed-up lawyer Billy McBride who is now an ambulance chaser. His luck seems about to turn when a woman approaches him with a case that could bring him redemption on the firm which expelled him. With its unconventional characters, compelling performances and a powerful plot, Goliath is an addictive watch.

Mishel’s Cookies In search of the perfect chocolate chip cookie? Mishel’s Cookies promises to give you exactly that – soft, crunchy, chewy and a total treat for your taste buds. The divine homemade treats are baked fresh every day and you can order your batch by calling 0307 2665437. Happy eating!

Le Femme Et Le TGV You may not have heard of Nausheen Dadabhoy before, but you soon will, for the film shot by the Pakistani cinematographer is headed to the Oscars this year. Le Femme Et Le TGV, directed by Timo von Guten, has been nominated in the Live Action Short Film category. Shot by Dadabhoy, it tells the touching story of a lonely woman, Elise, and her relationship with the conductor of a train that passes her house each evening. Starring actress Jane Birkin, it’s a film that you need to put on your mustwatch list for the month.

Panwaari And just when we thought pan was a thing of the past reserved only for the old school folks, Panwari at Karachi Eat 2017 proved us wrong. The crowd around their kiosk featured the young and the old, ladies and gents, Chanel bags and Hermes sandals. Credited with re-inventing the traditional betel-leaf delicacy, their pan leaves are carefully wrapped in silver gauze with silver coated cardamom filling and a variety of flavours ranging from the ethnic to the exotic; from good old saada khushboo and meetha pan to new ones like their famous mint pan, Nutellawari, peanut butter chocolate pan, date pan, caramel pan and seasonal ones such as the yuzu lemon pan, passion fruit, raspberry, blueberry, kiwi, pineapple, honey and almond flavoured pans. The signature Gold pan goes for PKR. 1000 a piece. If you missed the Panwaari pan at Frere Hall, make a trip to their shop in Bahadurabad. Good things sure do come in small packages; in this case, in neat little pyramid shaped ones. 23

NEAR & AFAR

Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.

Where to stay:

Kalam,

Swat Valley

The birthplace of the Swat River, Kalam Valley is surrounded by lush green hills and thick forests and dotted with numerous lakes, meadows and waterfalls that are worth seeing. 24

How to get there: Daewoo Express operates a bus service from both Lahore and Islamabad to Mingora. From Mingora, a hired jeep can take you to Kalam in about 4 hours.

Walnut Heights is a small resort that offers a secluded and cosy stay in an area surrounded by thick pine forest. Guests wishing to kick back and relax can read and recline on the lawn and balconies facing the snowcapped peaks of Falaksair and Mankial while those with an adventurous streak can avail the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s numerous tour packages. Local musicians are available to add a festive touch to bonfire nights or barbeque evenings, organized on special request.

What to do: Kalam has large number of alpine glacial lakes, among them the popular Mahodand Lake and Kundol Lake. Most of these lakes are accessible through trekking over lush green trails with a breathtaking view of snow-clad mountains. Fishing, boating and camping around the lakes are all great for enjoying the scenic area.

Langkawi, Malaysia

An archipelago of 99 islands, Langkawi is a tropical paradise offering sun-drenched beaches, ancient rainforests teeming with exotic plant and animal life, fascinating legends and duty-free shopping.

How to get there: Thai Airways flies to Kuala Lumpur via Bangkok from across Pakistan and domestic airlines provide A thrilling cable car ride to the numerous options to suit summit of Mount Mat Cincang t your budget for a flight – Langkawi’s second highes between KL and Langkawi. mountain – provides an unrivalled and view of the entire main island the h oug thr g kin trek beyond. Go most pristine rainforest that covers r of tou t boa a e tak or of Langkawi, re The d s. ate ove situ ngr is, ma Reg g The St. the fascinatin , or ing div tip for rn ties the uni sou ort on the are also opp of e som at one f is gol nd, of nd isla of the playing a rou oy enj will en ury ildr lux Ch est s. ort new of the the 5-star res h wit resorts in Langkawi. the island’s underwater world, s run t iestha tur nel cen tun t ids nd Set am an undergrou m. na fau ariu st aqu fore nt old rain through a gia and nature, and the glimmering Andaman Sea, it proffers an idyllic beachfront resort experience, 6 dining venues, a signature St. Regis Butler Service and serene spa quarters.

What to do:

Where to stay:

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF Photo Credit : Ben French

Lahoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

HIDDEN By Kelsey Hoppe

Writer and editor Kelsey Hoppe spent three years in Pakistan, during which time she fell in love with Lahore and felt compelled to write a guidebook to the city, In Lahore: A Contemporary Guide to the City, which will be launched at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lahore Literary Festival. In this riveting narrative, she shares some of the captivating discoveries she chanced upon while exploring the city.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

hen I arrived in Lahore I set out to find a tailor. Tailors abound in Pakistan. It should not have been difficult. But it was. Like Captain Ahab searching for Moby Dick or Ponce de Leon finding the fountain of youth my quest for a good tailor proved elusive. When I asked friends for the contacts of their tailors they demurred. “Oh,” they would say. “I had the best tailor. But she’s become terribly flakey of late. I couldn’t recommend her.” Or, “I’ve just fallen out with him but I’m sure there are lots around. You’ll find one.” Tailors seemed to be zooming by but I always missed the last train. Tailors weren’t the only thing that was difficult to find. I was searching for curtains and sheets when a friend offhandedly suggested we go to Ichra – the cloth market. We parked on Ferozepur Road and wound our way back through tiny alleys to a row of stores stacked floor to ceiling with every fabric imaginable. It was like an episode of “Homeland” except without even a whiff of danger. Shopkeepers smiled, welcomed, offered tea, joked and cajoled trying to make a sale. “How do you know about these places?” I asked. She waved off the question with typical Lahori nonchalance. “When you are born in Lahore,” she said. “You are born into a collective conscious.” This collective conscious dictates where Lahoris go and when. It whispers to them what artist to follow, what writer to read, what café is opening or closing, what designer is going to be the next big thing. As an outsider, all you could do was watch for these gems to be dropped innocuously in conversation and furtively pick them up when no one was looking. The best you could hope for was to tag along. I found this to be the main difference between Lahore and almost everywhere else I’d ever lived. In Europe, for example, everything is known. Guidebooks and travel magazines tell you what to expect. If you arrive in Paris, you are already groomed for the hazy romance of it all. Lahore gives nothing away. It holds its secrets close to keep you guessing at them. Paris weeps if you miss the Eiffel Tower. Lahore shrugs its indifference if you

never saw Wazir Khan’s Mosque. You leave Paris confident you have experienced Paris. You leave Lahore uncertain if you’ve even seen Lahore. The longer I was in the city the more I behaved like a second-rate gem dealer. I had picked up enough gems and wanted others to admire them. But, I also wanted them to keep their grubby paws off. Part of me wanted to tell the world how beautiful and captivating Lahore was and part of me wanted to keep Lahore for myself. The generous part of me won out. I decided to write a city guide for those of us without the collective conscious. Writing a city guidebook required more serious mining of Lahore’s hidden gems than I had previously undertaken. This was both a joy and a frustration. A joy because you might just be around the corner from the best paya you’d ever tasted and a frustration because you settle for some mediocre haleem at the dhaba next door to it. One friend would suggest the best place for fried fish and no sooner would you try it than another would tell you an even better place. This created in me something like a manic obsession with discovery from which I still haven’t recovered. In the introduction to In Lahore: A Contemporary Guide to the City I described it like this: “When I lived in Lahore people used to ask me what I liked so much about it. I would stare at them for several seconds blinking unfathomably. It wasn’t that I couldn’t come up with something to say but rather I didn’t know where to begin. I loved the mist that lingers in the gardens at dawn. I loved having halwa puri in the Old City for breakfast. I loved the thousands of cricket games played on the streets at dawn, at noon, at midnight. I loved the genuine hospitality of Lahoris. I loved the peace and solitude of the Mian Mir shrine. I loved the complex, playful tile faces of the Lahore Fort. I loved the view from the minarets of the Wazir Khan Mosque in the morning. And that is not to even mention the food. Or the textiles. Or the literature. I could go on. A friend repeated a Russian proverb saying, “Sometimes, you drink a cup of tea so good that you miss it even while you are still drinking it.” This is how I felt about Lahore.” Miriam Adeney wrote, “You will never be completely at home again, because part of your heart will always be elsewhere. That is the price you pay for the richness of loving and knowing people in more than one place.” Lahore makes you feel this more than other places. Now that I have left I find myself thinking of Lawrence Gardens when a flock of pigeons takes flight across the English countryside. Or, I think of dinners at Haveli when I catch a whiff of ghee, garlic and garam masala from an Asian restaurant in London. I keep some gems from Lahore in my pocket and every now and again I take them out, polish them off and have a look at them. I’ll even share a few with you if you promise to go and get your own.

Photo Credit : Ben French

“Sometimes, you drink a cup of tea so good that you miss it even while you are still drinking it.” This is how I felt about Lahore.” 29

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Mian Mir was one of the first places we visited in Lahore. It was dusk and the sun brushed the horizon pink and gold. The shrine hummed with peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prayers. Bunting flags fluttered and the birds coming home to roost pecked at the crumbs being scattered. The story of the friendship between the Sufi saint and the 5th Sikh Guru Arjan imbues the square with calm and the air with magic.

Photo Credit : Ubaid-ur-Rehman

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Having Lahori breakfast is another. This is one thing that can only be done in Lahore. Sure, you can find the foods - halwa puri, paratha, channay, lassi - elsewhere but it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the same as eating in a haveli of the Old City. Or, on the streets of Gawalmandi. Or at a restaurant overlooking Badshahi Mosque.

Photo Credit : Ubaid-ur-Rehman

Listening to Sufi music on a Thursday night at Peerus CafĂŠ cannot be beat. I had been sceptical when it was first suggested. It seemed too much effort for this unapologetic Gulberg girl to drive to far out Raiwind Road, dodging construction on what-ever-colour line it was at the time. But, as I came through the door and heard the heart rending chord of a qawwali it made me believe that all the pain and beauty of the world could be captured. The music at Peerus never disappointed.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

I also loved observing colonial Lahore in all its tragic glory. During the weekdays you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get a good look at it as Mall Road is buried in the sound and the fury of worka-day Lahore. People. Traffic. Sirens. Selling and buying. But, if you go on Sunday morning, around dawn, it is just you and the pigeons with colonial architecture looming on either side. You can really get a sense of what it must have been like strolling down the mall in 1900 when it was dirt and filled with horse drawn carriages. I like to stop and say hello to Alfred Woolnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s statue who used to be one of many along the mall but now keeps his lonely vigil outside Punjab University.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

The last gem I keep tucked away is Maryam Zamani’s Mosque – the oldest in Lahore. It is shrouded by a mechanics neighbourhood just beyond the eastern wall of the Lahore Fort. If you step through the old gate and pass the cool green pool you can see some of the most beautiful tile work in the city.

Photo Credit : Ben French

Despite discovering so much of Lahore many other gems remained elusive. I never made it into the Samadhi of Ranjit Singh. I have it on good authority there is an Old City rooftop tour where you can jump from rooftop to rooftop like children on Basant. I never managed to get into the secret tunnels rumoured to run beneath the city. At one of our leaving parties I explained my pathetic luck with Lahori tailors to a friend. “So, your friends?” he looked at me frankly. “They’re poorly dressed?” “No,” I answered. “They’re impeccably dressed.”

He spread his hands in front of him as if the truth were self-evident. Realisation spread across my brain like syrup. Lahore might have given up a few gems but it still managed to keep a few for itself. The collective conscious could not be tricked into giving up all its secrets. But, maybe that is its best trick of all – to keep us coming back. In Lahore is available for delivery in Pakistan at www.in-lahore.com.

Photo Credit : Ben French 37

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

This used to be

my Playground

The narrow winding lanes of Lahore’s inner city may all look the same but once you venture into the labyrinth you’ll find yourself discovering hidden gems around every corner. From the gritty akharas, home to Punjab’s dying tradition of wrestling, to centuries old bazaars, scrumptious street food to architectural remnants from the Mughal era, there is an adventure waiting to happen no matter where you turn.

Photography : MHM Designer : Munib Nawaz Model : Waleed Khalid

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Princes, Palaces and Political Intrigues Of

By Mariam Mushtaq

Haveli Nau Nihal Singh in Lahoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Walled City is a feat of remarkable architecture but its bedecked walls hide a dark legacy, a tale weaved around the mighty empire of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and its eventual decline.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

ntering Lahore’s fabled Walled City, it’s easy to lose one’s way inside the warren of narrow alleys that characterize much of androon shehr (inner city) these days. Don’t be put off by the grime and the gridlock however – once you know where to look, Lahore’s past as the seat of Muslim, Sikh and colonial rule will reveal itself to you in stunning glimpses of architectural and cultural marvels.

Perhaps none is as spectacular as the haveli of Nau Nihal Singh just inside Bhaati Gate. Ask for directions to Victoria School and you’ll soon find yourself standing within a huge open compound, colloquially known as ‘bhaiyyon wala maidaan’ (ground of brothers). Beyond the ground, which was once a flourishing garden, rises an imposing four-storey edifice. Currently serving as a government-run secondary school for girls, it was once the residence of the heir to the Sikh throne, Nau Nihal Singh, grandson of the legendary Ranjit Singh, and is one of the few surviving Sikh royal residences to be found in the region. The various school notices and circulars tacked around the front entrance do little to mar the magnificence of the façade – the multi-hued frescoes, exquisite in their detail, the carved brickwork and the overhanging embellished wooden jharokas transport one to an era bygone, a time of princes and princesses, royal courts and palace intrigues. Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founder of the Sikh Emire, was a patron of the arts and music, literature and art thrived under his patronage. European visitors to his court have written accounts of its pomp and splendor, which was in sharp contrast to the king’s own appearance, scarred by a childhood bout of smallpox. Prince Nau Nihal Singh, born in 1821 to the maharaja’s eldest son Kharrak Singh, was his grandfather’s favourite, the heir that he was grooming to take over the throne one day.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

It appeared that Nau Nihal Singh had inherited not only his grandfather’s aptitude for statecraft and skill as a warrior but also his love for the arts. He began accompanying Ranjit Singh on military expeditions barely into his teens and was part of the Peshawar campaign of 1834, at the age of 13. His opulent mansion, with over forty rooms and a huge central courtyard, spoke not only of his favoured position amongst the long line of heirs but also his appetite for all things glamorous. Writing in his 1892 book titled ‘Lahore’, S.M. Latif describes the haveli as such: “This lofty haveli is reckoned among the most beautiful buildings of the city of Lahore. It was built by Nau Nehal Singh, son of Maharaja Kharrak Singh, and used by him as his private residence. It contains numerous spacious chambers, halls and balconies. The ceilings are decorated with paintings and mirrors and are worked in gold. The walls are richly and tastefully ornamented with glasses and artificial flowers. It is now government property and is used as the zenana or female school.”

While much of the beautiful fresco work, depicting floral patterns and mythological figures, has faded with age on the lower floors, the Rang Mahal on the top floor has managed to preserve its detailed miniature paintings. The heavily ornamented room was meant to be a place of recreation to enjoy the cool breeze and a panoramic view of the city, while keeping the royal women hidden from prying eyes in the streets below. It’s easy to imagine the young prince, married at the age of 16 to Sahib Kaur, spending leisurely evenings with his beloved, cocooned inside the bedecked chamber, with its mirror-etched wooden ceilings and painted walls. The grandeur of royal life could not, however, shelter the prince from tragedy. Nau Nihal Singh’s untimely demise at the age of 19 remains one of the most enduring mysteries of the city’s multilayered past. Historians argue over the nature of

the death – whether accident or murder – but agree over the events that led to it. There is little debate over the fact that following Ranjit Singh’s death, intrigue, conspiracies and betrayals within the royal court led to the empire’s eventual decline. Nau Nihal Singh looked set to fulfill his grandfather’s wish of ruling Punjab when he took over the throne from his father Kharrak Singh who proved to be an ineffectual ruler. Soon after being relegated to the sidelines, Kharrak Singh was poisoned by the power-hungry court vizir Dhian Singh Dogra, the same man who is thought to have engineered Nau Nihal’s death. The circumstances that led to it were particularly tragic. Nau Nihal Singh had just set alight his father’s funeral pyre and was passing through Roshnai Gate near the Lahore Fort on his way home, when he was struck on the head by crumbling brickwork from the gate. According to eyewitnesses, the injuries only knocked him unconscious and he was hurriedly pulled into a tent

within the fort. It was there that Dhian Singh Dogra administered the fatal blow that killed the prince, the very day that his father was laid to rest. Dogra’s attempts to install his puppet on the throne, Kharak Singh’s step brother Sher Singh, were initially thwarted by Chand Kaur, Nau Nihal Singh’s mother, who took charge as the queen regent on behalf of her son’s unborn child. However, when Sahib Kaur delivered a stillborn child, the maharani was forced to relinquish power and retired to live in Nau Nihal Singh’s haveli. Within a year, she met the same gruesome end as her husband and son and was found murdered inside her house. The stately mansion that inspires awe with its remarkable architecture hides a dark legacy, proving that historical fact can at times be more dramatic than the tallest tale. 51

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

A ROY AL odyssey DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Be enchanted by the romance of a bygone era as Khawar Riaz takes you on a spellbinding odyssey through one of Lahoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hidden architectural gems, the Nau Nihal Singh Haveli, once a royal residence deep within the fabled Walled City. Photography : Make Up : Jewellery : Designer : Model :

Khawar Riaz Jawaad Ashraf Anees Malik Ahmad Bilal Sonia Tariq

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

THE LLF: A

CULTURAL

Affair By Zahra Hidayatullah

Razi Ahmed, Founding Director and CEO of the Lahore Literary Festival, reveals the trials and triumphs of putting together a cultural event of the LLF’s magnitude, one that brings together the country’s and the international community’s finest writers and opinion makers.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

he Guardian has called it “a safe place for dangerous ideas” and there could be no better way to describe the Lahore Literary Festival – an annual celebration of some of the best of creative expressions both from Pakistan and world over. 2017 marks the fifth installment of this event that features speakers who are amongst the country’s and the international community’s finest writers and opinion makers. Held in the heart of the Punjab capital in a space whose name is symbolic of the age of the Muslim renaissance, it covers an impressive array of topics ranging from literature, politics, regional conflict, transforming education in Pakistan, to pop culture and readings of poetry and prose. An event that is solely credited with bringing cultural gatherings, international travellers and positive perception back to Lahore and Pakistan, we talk to Razi Ahmed, the LLF’s Founding Director and CEO to find out how the organizers manage to defy the odds and have for five successive years managed to host an event that welcomes all and sundry with an open heart and an open mind.

Razi Ahmed

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Lahore has always been the hub of culture in Pakistan. However as of late, literary gathering had reduced in number but thanks to this not-for-profit event where entry is free of cost for all attendees, reading and cultural discussions are back at the forefront. It really is a great service for the people of Lahore. In what direction do you think this dialogue is driving us? Is it the desired direction? RA: The critical mass constituted of book-lovers that we see annually at LLF is a manifestation of the city’s visible and latent literary milieu. It also is a manifestation of a public service, which if qualitatively delivered with punctuality and civic discipline (as we see with queuing), is embraced and welcomed by an ever-increasing number of booklovers each spring as it packs a three days’ schedule with scintillating sessions comprising the leading lights of Urdu and English fiction and nonfiction without imposing any barriers to entry for the public. Tell us about some of the key notable figures that serve on the LLF’s Board of Directors. RA: We are privileged to have as our of board of directors Hameed Haroon, publisher and CEO of DAWN Media Group; acclaimed architect Nayyar Ali Dada; environmentalist Dr Pervez Hassan; philanthropist and businessman Iqbal Z Ahmed; and PR guru and activist Nusrat Jamil. What is most splendid is the fact that in the face of all odds, each year, the LLF has managed to keep event time, session time and a large majority of the speakers listed in the schedule do manage to make it to the event. What is the criterion for selecting panelists and speakers?

The LLF is in name a “literature festival” but it features an impressive range of topics and interests varying from literature, politics, regional conflict, transforming education in Pakistan, pop culture and readings of poetry and prose. On what basis are the topics selected and talks designed? RA: The festival is designed to bring in dimensions of aesthetics in the written, visual, and auditory forms. Each year the festival is curated to talk of everyday matters, matters that concern citizens and their sense of place. Those everyday matters are not exclusive to talk shows and print media. Weighty, ponderous topics such as migration, identity, race, conflict, land rights, and historical revisionism, to name a few, are explored in literature and the arts; and given the uncertain times we face, make it all the more imperative to look at critically, in a public space like the LLF, through rich, layered perspectives of writers. The Guardian has called the LLF “a safe place for dangerous ideas”. In times when viewpoints are rigid and are formed by politico-religious jingoism, how hard is it to allow the free flow of all differing kinds of ideas? RA: We remain open to the left and right of the political spectrum. The idea of the LLF is to champion a space, free of bias and bigotry, for debate, dissent, and inquiry. Rivalling ideas centerstage as part of panel discussions, which also draw out questions from the audiences to widen the ambit of free and responsible speech, and view contentious issues of the day through a nuanced, sophisticated window whose worldview isn’t reductionist.

RA: Apart from academic and literary merits of speakers, we at the LLF work closely with our prospective speakers to ensure that their preparedness and rigour for sessions are matched by fearless, articulation of thought and the ability to distill complex ideas for mobilising and inspiring new readers especially the youth. To weave connections across disciplines and to see beyond the silos of academic boundaries, for a more humanistic understanding of the world, through arts and literature is what we strive for each year.

Dr Pervez Hassan

Hameed Haroon

Nayyar Ali Dada

Iqbal Z Ahmed

Nusrat Jamil

Many critics have expressed concern on the need for taking the festival away from Lahore to internationals capitals of the world such as NYC and London with the argument that each city has its own literature festival. RA: Historically, Lahore has been a gateway of ideas. It was one of the key global cities as way back as the Sultanate, and remained a city of splendour and creativity under the Mughals, Sikhs, Raj and post-partition (notwithstanding the exodus of Hindus and Sikhs). Its miniature paintings, campuses, radicalism, and poetry have marked the ebb and flow of empires and movements. Its past and present are intertwined. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that symbolism of Lahore as a global site, as a global image that we capture upon when we talk of the world in Lahore, and of Lahore in New York, in London, and any other modern metropolises.

Razi, you have also served as jury member and have chaired sessions at different festivals around the region as well as internationally. How would you compare the LLF to other regional festivals? RA: It is the synonymity of the Lahore Literary Festival with Lahore which makes this literary festival extremely special and a prized one. The way it incorporates the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history, architecture, living and leisured traditions, storytelling and academia make it a festival which is unlike that held in any other South Asian city or even any other major metropolis beyond our neighbourhood. The city comes together in homage to the written word and the arts and the dispersion of activities ranging from theatre to art shows to mushairas make it a festival steeped in humanistic tradition. In that sense, it becomes not just a festival of book launches, but of the power to communicate and celebrate creative expressions, however disparate they may be.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Currently

READING By Mohsin Sayeed

As we gear up to celebrate the LLF, DESTINATIONS asked some voracious readers to disclose what books they’ve currently got on their bedside tables. From historical tales to biographies and from Urdu literature to contemporary English fiction, the list is as diverse and eclectic as the sessions we’re bound to enjoy at the literary festival.

Ayesha Tammy Haq Lawyer, Broadcast Journalist and Adventure Traveller The Curse of Mohenjodaro by Maha Khan Phillips I have just finished reading The Curse of Mohenjodaro by Maha Khan Phillips. It’s her second novel and so completely different from the first. The Curse of Mohenjodaro has all the elements of an unputdownable book - there’s an archeological dig, mystery fire, mass murder, ancient civilisation, a cult, a narrative set in present day Santa Monica, London and Karachi and a parallel story set in 3800BC. Oh yes, there’s a hot blond male assassin too. All the threads and time zones keep you riveted. It’s a thriller with a bit of a history lesson touching very gently on the Islamic terror genre. It’s well researched, it’s compelling, it’s interesting and different and I won’t tell you the story as I strongly recommend you read it. Fiction is meant to take you somewhere else and that’s what this book does.

Mohsin Sayeed Fashion Designer, Journalist and Fashion Critic Ek Qatra Khoon by Ismat Chightai I’m reading Ek Qatra Khoon - A Drop of Blood by Ismat Chughtai. It’s a novel about the historic Battle of Karbala and the martyrdom of Hazrat Imam Hussain. The prose is simple but it’s simply riveting.

Mohammad Hanif Author/Columnist Chakiwara Mein Wasaal And Other Misadventures by Mohammad Khalid Akhtar I am reading English translation of Chakiwara Mein Wasaal And Other Misadventures by Mohammad Khalid Akhtar translated by Bilal Tanveer. I first read it in Urdu thirty years ago and it is still one of the funniest, most profound novels I have read in any language.

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Saba Hameed Actor Udaas Naslain by Abdullah Hussain These days I am re-reading Abdullah Hussain’s Udaas Naslain after about 30 years. It’s one my most favourite books. Admittedly, it’s a very sad book and the sadness has stayed with me all these years since the first time I read it. It’s about our journey, the lost opportunity when we could have risen but we turned into the wrong direction. Abdullah Hussain has magically woven the story of a romance against the backdrop of history. It’s just superb.

Raza Rumi Author, Consulting Editor at The Friday Times and Visiting Faculty at Cornell University The Warehouse by SS Mausoof I just finished reading The Warehouse, a gripping novel by SS Mausoof that is set in contemporary Pakistan and is an astute commentary on the contradictions of the country. An insurance investigator from Karachi lands up in war torn Waziristan where drones are flying low and Taliban are free to operate and the army is trying to keep some sort of order. When I started to read I was afraid that it may just be another clichéd story but it’s crisp writing, characters and nuanced treatment of the country’s contradictions were quite engaging. It’s a gripping read and I wonder why it has not received the kind of attention it deserves. 72

Bunto Kazmi Couturier and Revivalist Kayee Chand Thay Sar-e-Aasmaan by Shams-ur-Rehman Farooqui I am reading Kayee Chand Thay Sar-e-Aasmaan by Shams-ur-Rehman Farooqui. It’s such a beautifully written book about a bygone era. One can read it over and over again just for the language itself. Simultaneously I am reading Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s autobiography Living to Tell a Tale. And of course, Faiz’s Nuskha-HyeWafa is always on my bedside table, within an arm’s reach and close to my heart.

Sameera Raja Curator and Founder of Canvas Gallery The Three Daughters of Eve by Elif Shafak I have just finished reading The First Muslim by Lesley Hazleton and have started The Three Daughters of Eve by Elif Shafak. It’s about a middle aged rich married Turkish woman who is reflecting about her time as a student in England before she was married.

Dr. Furrukh Khan Associate Professor of Postcolonial Studies and Director of the English Program at LUMS The Spinner’s Tale by Omar Shahid Hamid I am currently reading The Spinner’s Tale by Omar Shahid Hamid. It is a follow-up to his highly successful The Prisoner. This novel weaves facts and fiction together in such a gripping manner that one feels as if one is right there with the various characters as their tumultuous lives unfold in the story. This is a brilliant novel about the gritty experiences of a police officer and the subject he has watch over.

Aysha Raja Entrepreneur and Owner of The Last Word Age of Anger by Pankaj Mishra I am reading Pankaj Mishra’s Age of Anger. It’s about how the modern era’s promise of universal enrichment through capitalism was fundamentally flawed and based on selective western history, and how re-enforcement of western enlightenment principles such as individualism and reason has reduced us to a quivering mass of anger capable of voting in autocrats like Modi, Trump and possibly even Marie Le Pen. 73

DESTINATIONS SUPPORTS LLF

Fatima Hassan Interior Designer My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante I am currently reading My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante, the first in a trilogy. There have been many articles about this author’s anonymity. Her real identity is unknown except to her publisher, which adds to her intrigue. This is contemporary realistic fiction about 2 women who grow up together in the 1950’s in a poor neighbourhood in Naples.

Adeela Suleman Visual Artist, Head of the Department of Fine Arts at Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture and Coordinator, Vasl Artists’ Collective. Walk Through Wall: A Memoir’ by Mariana Abramovic I just finished Mariana Abramovic’s autobiography called Walk Through Wall: A Memoir. In her memoir, the artist addresses her life and art with great honesty.

Umar Sayeed Couturier Twilight in Delhi by Ahmad Ali I am reading Twilight in Delhi by Ahmad Ali. It is the story of a dying civilisation in post-1857 Delhi. Beautifully captured, brilliantly penned. Professor Ahmad Ali was one of the founders of the Progressive Writers Movement.

Lorraine Adams Writer Biography of Vera Nabokov by Stacy Schiff I’m just finishing Stacy Schiff’s biography of Vera Nabokov. The title is Vera: Mrs. Vladimir Nabokov. It’s a razzle dazzle account of Nabokov’s wife and won the Pulitzer Prize in 2000.

Vaneeza Ahmed Entrepreneur, Media Personality and Mother of Two Toddlers. Baby Sleep Site All I am reading these days is the Baby Sleep Site. Its about how to train your children to sleep in their room. I borrowed my mother-in-law’s The Monk Who Sold His Ferrari by Robin Sharma, but haven’t had the time in the past three years to read it!

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

How

DEEP LOVE? is your

By Madeeha Syed

One needs to go to great lengths to dive into the wilderness that marks the Pakistani side of the Arabian Sea, but as journalist Madeeha Syed discovered on a recent diving trip, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all worth it.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

t’s a little wild here. The deep-sea diving scene. Like most adventure sports, there’s hardly any proper regulation. Starting out, you’re on your own. It took a lot of thorough inquires to find the right ‘club’ that I felt was safe enough to dive with here in Karachi. Tourism is the fastest growing industry in the world. In the southern part of Pakistan, in order to cater to a fast-growing domestic tourism market, tour guides are taking people out further along previously isolated coasts and deeper into the sea. Quite a few offer ‘deep-sea dives’ to their clients but most of them aren’t licensed to do so. This is alarming considering that without proper guidance, people can die down there. For anyone wondering: there are actually only three certified commercial diving instructors in Karachi and only one certified dive centre — Indus Scuba. After being given an intense two-hour refresher in the centre’s pool in full scuba gear (which would count as two dives in my log book!) I was given the green light: I was going to go with the ‘big boys’ on their next diving trip. Back in Turkey I was accustomed to simply walking down the harbour, hopping on a dive boat, picking out my (borrowed) wet suit from an array, having an assistant fit me for flippers, masks etc. and another strap on my gear before I would take a large stride into the water. Things were radically different here: we had to be ready in the wee hours of the morning (5.30am) to board a bus that would take us on a one-and-a-half-hour drive to a small fishing village in Balochistan. Over there we had to hop on to two fishermen’s boats to the only ‘cover’ we had from the wind and massive waves of the Arabian Sea: Charna Island.

While one diver gets ready, others prefer to nap or watch stuff on their phones on the 30min boat ride to the diving spots.

For anyone with motion or seasickness, this was a nightmare.

Our Pakistani problem: modesty’

I was told I had to dress ‘modestly’ under my regular clothes because we weren’t in Turkey anymore (hence no bathing suits on the boat) and there were going to be no changing rooms. I chose a sun suit. It felt ridiculous considering I had to squeeze myself into a fitted, full-body wetsuit afterwards.

That wasn’t enough. I was handed the wetsuit on the beach so I could change before getting on the boat — another ridiculous suggestion considering it would be another 40 minutes before we would even get into the water. Shameless as I am, I decided my first act of rebellion would be to change on the boats (as hard as it would be) along with the other male divers (they were on the other boat). My sun suit is modest enough. With a bit of fiddling here and balancing there, I managed. And ‘hopped’ on to the next boat (they were all fixed together to form a platform of sorts – as Pakistanis we’re nothing if not inventive!).

Into the sea

There was no diving platform. I was told we’d have to do a back roll — when you sit with your back to the water, hold your scuba mask and roll backwards into the water. I was terrified of doing that. I mean, you can’t see what you’re jumping into! I insisted on doing a long stride into the water — after making sure there were enough divers already in the water in case something went wrong (hint: sharks).

From the clear blue of the Mediterranean in Turkey, I was in the murky green waters of the Arabian Sea in Pakistan. It was quite a contrast. Later, dive master and overall head honcho Mustafa explained that the green was a result of excess plankton in the water — this is usually followed by the arrival of whale sharks (OMG!). The water becomes clear on less windy days. 81

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Arrived at Bhit Khori early in the morning to this : fishermen returning with their pre-dawn catch.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

The sea might be clear in Turkey, but its reefs don’t come close to harbouring the sheer number and diversity of wildlife seen in our waters. There were all manners of colourful fish, snails, little critters and green and orange coral underwater. We didn’t see any big animals mostly because our visibility wasn’t great and for that we’d have to swim out into the open sea.

It’s easy to forget that coral is neither rock nor plant, but is actually a sessile animal.

Most of the diving mates had underwater cameras on them and my ‘buddy’ (person assigned to dive with you) wouldn’t let me touch any of the coral. Even for balance. It’s easy to forget that coral is neither rock nor plant, but is actually a sessile animal. It’s a living, breathing underwater organism.

Later, over a lunch of lentils and rice on the boats, the other divers told me how I had just missed the sting ray mating season. “The entire sea bed is covered with sting rays,” related one of them, “I’ve never seen that many in my life!” Well, perhaps next time.

Floating to the surface Into the unknown

The one thing that kept happening while diving was that no matter how I’d redistribute the weights on my weight belt, I kept floating to the top and had to struggle to come down again. Underwater, the heavier you are, the more buoyancy you’ll have, hence you’ll need more weight to keep you under. Once on the surface, Murtaza asked for additional weights which were promptly strapped on to my belt. That didn’t help. Wearing a full body wetsuit, instead of a shorty, also increases buoyancy.

When we went back, I quickly made my way to the bus (after instructing the driver not to let anyone through) to change out of my wetsuit and be free again. If there is one thing I know for sure it’s that sharks are rarely sighted in the Mediterranean which made it easier to be ‘fearless’ underwater. Over here, I was terrified of venturing anywhere even slightly further from the group. Our unexplored coral reefs and waters appear exciting and promise new adventures and discovery, but those bring a fear of… big animals with big, sharp teeth too.

Luckily we found our solution underwater: Murtaza and the gang spotted two old weights on the seabed, covered in crusts of salt. After scraping the salt off with his knife, Murtaza handed them to me to pop in the pocket of my Buoyancy Control Device (BCD) — basically a fancy vest with pockets for stuff and air that can be pumped in via the tank strapped on its back.

I later found out that the club does ‘discovery’ trips as well where they hook up fancy underwater rover cameras to unexplored parts of the sea to see what lurks beneath. It’s nice to be a part of a group that is discovering the Pakistani side of the Arabian Sea — one dive at a time. To boldly go where no diver has gone before!

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

#TravelistaPK

Laila Premjee By Yusra Askari

Artist and curator Laila Premjee is a firm believer in the power of art to influence young minds, sensitize communities and enhance creativity no matter what oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s age. In this brand new feature, DESTINATIONS meets the woman behind Saturday Studio to discover more about her work, travels and inspirations. Photography : Jaffer Hasan Hair & Make Up : Faheem at Rukaiyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Salon Styling : Yasmeen Hashmi

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

n January of 2010, from the basement of her home, she opened the doors to Saturday Studio. Bringing together her passion for the arts and her teaching experience of over two decades, the space was initially meant to provide the artistically inclined youth of Karachi an opportunity to explore a variety of mediums and techniques.

Seven years on, the studio caters not only to children but also conducts workshops for adults, and has on board a number of budding artists working on a diverse variety of projects. Art tours for students of government and low-income schools are also part of the programme. Meet the woman who makes it all happen – the very dedicated Laila Odho Premjee. She says it like it is. “In my view, from a very young age, children are under a lot of academic pressure, resulting in most being overburdened. Often, parents feel that art is not important,” explains Laila who found breaking through these very mindsets her biggest challenge.

That is exactly why Saturday Studio is structured in a way that there are classes every weekend. She feels, “the advantage of working these sessions into routines allows for the exercise to build both creativity and concentration.” Art, believe Laila, is an effective way to sensitize communities. “It serves to bring about a certain softness and kindness. I therefore wanted to set up a space for young children that would not only provide an avenue for them to explore their creativity and develop their skill-set, but also the ability to introspect and reflect within,” she elaborates. One of two partners who manage the Artchowk Gallery in Karachi, Laila feels connecting with one’s inner artist not only enables you to appreciate beauty but also helps develop a certain calm and contentment within. “I have always been artistically inclined and the person I am today has a lot to do with my inner calling,” she adds. As someone who previously enjoyed drawing with graphite and charcoal, she has only recently begun experimenting with acrylics on different surfaces. “I’m currently working on wood, and following my recent trip to Seville, it’s Islamic art and patterns that have me inspired.”

A LIFE WORTH LIVING Last November just before winter set in, Laila and her husband Asad travelled to Seville in Spain. “The beautiful pungent scent of the lush orange trees, the old-world charm of cobblestone streets brimming with history and the grand Muslim architecture sets Seville apart from any other European city – its simply magical,” she narrates. It was a short trip. For 3 nights, the duo called ‘Palacio De Villapanes’ home – a quaint boutique hotel that has charmingly retained the original interiors of the old palace it formerly was. “It was bit rainy but it was perfect as there were not many tour groups in town,” explains Laila who is of the firm opinion that an off-season trip to Seville between October and spring is the ideal getaway. In Seville for just a little over 36 hours, the couple’s schedule was absolutely packed. Alcazar, the Moorish palace with its beautiful courtyards, tops her list of mustvisit sites. “Also not to be missed, the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See and its bell tower, the Giralda, originally built as a minaret. And course, the fabulous Museo de Bella Artes, a fine arts museum that houses some of the best works from medieval times to the early 20th century including pieces by Diego Velazquez and Francis Goya, my favourite masters,” she recommend. The city clearly has Laila enamoured: “Seville’s old town centre is enchanted. A hub of Moorish architecture, you’ll find horse carriages at every corner, waiting to take you around. With the cathedral as its axis, the quarter’s narrow cobbled lanes are full of cafés, restaurants, bars and quaint souvenir shops –navigate on foot with a map in hand. And do try and catch at least one live act by one of the many musicians and dancers performing on the streets through the day.” Given that it’s hailed as the birthplace of flamenco, no trip to Seville is complete without catching a performance. “We went to ‘Tablao El Arenal’ close to the cathedral, one of the more popular, traditional shows in Seville. A fabulous hour and a half long performance with an experienced ensemble – simply phenomenal,” she adds.

“Seville’s old town centre is enchanted. A hub of Moorish architecture, you’ll find horse carriages at every corner, waiting to take you around.”

“I’m a bit of a tree-hugging traveller,” declares Laila on whose to-do list shopping most often features at the very bottom. But there are certainly some exceptions to the rule. She explains: “I do always enjoy picking up books on art and a few souvenirs to bring home. Fridge magnets for my son’s collection are an absolute must. Spain boasts a wealth of ceramics and handicrafts. I love the traditional hand-painted fans I picked up in Seville, they are great to hand out as gifts and also extremely useful in the summer.” When travelling, Laila greatly enjoys watching street artists at work; “I try and bring home some of these eclectic pieces as they are individual and distinct. I also keep an eye out for old prints and maps, of which I am very fond.” Laila connected with Seville at a personal level. “What a unique and romantic city it is, one that feels like a fairytale come to life. My visit has inspired me to travel to and explore destinations that have a historical reference. Being passionate about the arts, I feel truly blessed to have had the opportunity to experience Seville,” she elaborates. In Laila’s view, to really enjoy a vacation, one must “live the local culture – it is the best way to discover and acquaint yourself with a new city. Visiting parks, eating at restaurants where locals dine, touring famous sites and monuments – that to me is a great trip.”

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

“My passion for the arts motivates me and encourages me to explore new ideas.”

Every summer, Laila and Asad like to explore a new destination. They not only enjoy acquainting with different cultures but also feel these trips are a great learning experience for their children. Holiday planning in the Premjee household is an uncomplicated, yet complex exercise. When deciding where the summer will be spent, two criteria come into play – vacations are either beach holidays or sight-seeing adventures. “We all do a lot of research before we finalize our plans – it’s a team effort, even my children are involved,” she tells us. “Each family vacation is an adventure waiting to happen,” says Laila. “My most fun travel memories are from our family road trip in the US when we took the kids to Disney World. My teenage twin daughters are my best friends and super fun. And my 11-year-old son is very affectionate and creative. All of us packed into a van, driving around with loads of luggage – we were quite the Brady bunch,” she jokes. Unlike the rest of her clan, Laila says she travels light. Her suitcase most often comprises of basics that include gym wear, jeans, light sweaters, a pair of good walking shoes and some make-up essentials. That’s about it. Like her packing list, Laila is clearly someone who likes to keep things simple. Her motto in life is straightforward: “think positive, be positive, and things will happen.” Hardworking people inspire this self-proclaimed fitness freak who has found her zen in yoga and enjoys painting Mandalas to relax and ease her mind. “My passion for the arts motivates me and encourages me to explore new ideas. For what it currently is, I feel I have achieved what I set out to do. But I do think there is a lot of potential to further develop Saturday Studio. I would like to expand operations in the future and hope to initiate more projects with schools and charitable organizations,” she explains. More power to you, Laila – here’s to being the change you wish to see. 93

STYLE RULES

Photography : Jaffer Hasan Hair & Make Up : Faheem at Rukaiyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Salon Styling : Yasmeen Hashmi 94

from the

suitcaseof

Maria Mahesar By Yasmeen Hashmi

Strong, smart and stylish, Maria Mahesar on nailing corporate chic, being an adventure bug and never giving up on Pakistan.

STYLE RULES

aidback yet ambitious, adventurous yet stylish, Maria Mahesar is a Karachi girl with a heart that bleeds green for her country.

Armed with a bachelor’s degree in Media Sciences, Maria kicked off her career in print media, and soon diverged towards marketing, joining JWT Advertising. It wasn’t until an opening at Red Bull unexpectedly landed her way that she found exactly what she was looking for. Thus began her rise to the top. As the National Communications Manager at Red Bull, Maria has the opportunity to work on projects that are not only challenging and unique but also daring enough to appeal to the adrenaline-junkie in her. Some of her favourite assignments have including shooting a drifting video with Jordanian racing driver and drifter Ahmed Dham in Kund Malir, Balochistan to showcase the iconic natural landmark Princess of Hope; organizing performances by internationally renowned stunt biker Chris Pfeiffer in Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad; and the Red Bull Soundclash music contest.

Travel Essentials • • • • • • • •

A Pouch (to keep important documents in one place) Fashion Magazine Planner Maps Make-up kit Sunblock Sunglasses Book

DESTINATIONS had the chance to get to know Maria better over coffee at her favourite hangout, Xander’s. Today we unveil bug or comfort puppy, which one are the treasures inside her suitcase. Adventure you while on holiday? Can you give us some background on your heritage?

MM: I am originally from interior Sindh; my father is from Dadu and my mother is from Larkana. I am a self-confessed, die-hard Pakistani. I am very proud of my roots. And despite all the countries I have visited or fall in love with, Pakistan matters the most to me. Describe a typical day in the office. MM: My day starts at 9am, I hate being late at work. I spend a good ten minutes planning my day to ensure I get the best out of those 9 hours at work. A typical day at work would be in and out of meetings, ensuring the tasks assigned for the day are met on time with positive results. Describe your personal style, both in and out of the office.

MM: Definitely adventure bug! Before visiting a country/city, I read up online, make plans and arrangements accordingly. For me each holiday is an opportunity to explore, regain my confidence and expand my horizons. What is your favourite sport and what festival or sporting event do you most want to see live? I love football and tennis. And would love to see the Wimbledon final live in the UK some day. Are you an adrenaline junkie? Any extreme sports on your bucket list?

“For me each holiday is an opportunity to explore, regain my confidence and expand my horizons.”

MM: My office style is very corporate (collared shirt, dress pants, blazer, high heels, matching jewellery). I believe in looking my best at work... no compromise on that! You’ll hardly see me in sneakers or flats and even when I am stressed out about a project or a deadline, you’ll find me in my trademark red lipstick!

Outside the office, my style is more casual and comfy, but still well put together. So jeans teamed up with a nice top and white sneakers. What is your signature holiday look? MM: A jumpsuit paired with sunglasses, matching jewellery, an oversized bag and of course heels! Name your favourite travel destination, local and international. MM: Tokyo any day! I just love everything about that city – the food, the vibe, the culture, creativity and history. I’ve been there thrice but each time I visit, I fall in love with Tokyo all over again. Locally, I recently visited Kund Malir in Balochistan and was blown away by the beauty of that area so it’s definitely my favourite travel destination within Pakistan at the moment.

MM: Yes! Water-skiing and air racing. Language you would like to be fluent in? MM: Arabic, French, German. How do you balance work and vacation? What helps you relax? MM: By planning in advance. I believe that both work and vacation are equally important in my life; hence I have to make time for both. My friends, family and reading keep me relaxed.

What do you like to buy while on holiday? MM: Hats, shoes, sunglasses, souvenirs, bags, make-up... lots of it! I also like to collect fashion magazines, especially Vogue, in different languages. Which famous person (living or dead) would you like to take on holiday, and where? MM: Audery Hepburn to the sets of Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Carrie Bradshaw from Sex and the City to New York City. Blair from Gossip Girl to New York City. Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor to Hollywood studios. Harrison Ford, to the sets of his movie Sabrina for a fine-dine romantic dinner. 97

STYLE RULES

Mariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Travel Snapshots

STYLE RULES What is your travel pet peeve? MM: When I don’t understand the local lingo of the country I am visiting. You have won the lottery; tell us where you would like to live/retire. MM: Tokyo. Romance whilst travel – yay or nay? MM: Haha, depends! What is your favourite cuisine? MM: Japanese. Sushi any time, any day! You have an unlimited travel budget and 24 hours, give us your itinerary. MM: I would raid my favourite brands’ outlets and grab all the shoes, clothes, bags, accessories instantly. I think this would consume 24 hours to be exact! What are you listening to these days ? MM: These days my playlist consists of Pavarotti, George Michael and Omar Kamal, who many call Palestine’s Frank Sinatra. What is your message to young Pakistani girls looking to become corporate leaders? MM: It’s a tough world but never believe that you’re less than anyone. Always believe that you can conquer, set a benchmark and leave a mark with your confidence and knowledge. What are your parents most proud of you for? MM: The fact that I am a diehard Pakistani who never gives up on Pakistan, believes in Pakistan and promotes the good side of Pakistan.

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MAN ON THE SCENE

Which other designers do you like to wear? MN: I’m a simple person when it comes to brands. It’s more about what I’m feeling than who I’m buying. Brands that work with me are Armani, All Saints, John Varvatos.

Munib Nawaz with

Who’s your muse? MN: Life.

Do you always have to look fashionable? MN: I don’t. I just like to be myself at the moment. Where would you like to be in the world right now? MN: I’d like to be in a castle in Romania that Count Dracula used to live in. It would be your dream to be stuck in a lift with… MN: Somebody who is not afraid of the dark. Scarlett Johansson, Kate Winslet or Tina Fey. Maybe all of them. It would be your nightmare to be stuck in a lift with… MN: Freddie Krueger or Chucky from Child’s Play.

What has inspired your upcoming collection? MN: The soul, in all its meanings and translations. From music to philosophy. From its origin to its chemical compositions. The collection is called “Sci-piritual” and blends the search of spirituality and science. Who’s the Munib Nawaz man? MN: He is a man who knows how to balance life. He is more than what meets the eye. He is driven, accomplished and his pursuit is to live an abundant life. He believes in purpose. He looks like a rock star, feels like royalty and acts like a gentleman.

What’s your favourite Pakistani destination? MN: I sadly haven’t seen as much of Pakistan as I would like to; that’s still on my to-do list. I actually like all of what I’ve seen so far, whether the beaches in Karachi, the valleys in Kashmir or the agricultural farms in Punjab. There’s still so much more to explore on this subject. What’s your favourite international destination? MN: Depends on the mood. Amsterdam, Krabi, New York, London, Romania. You can always be found at… MN: My house, my office or my gym. If you can’t find me there, then I don’t want you to be able to find me. Are you a night owl or a morning walk kind of person?

MN: To go back to my Plan A and make it work.

MN: I used to be a night crawler but a couple of years ago I began to wake up really early and since then, my life has changed for the better. I now believe if I have to beat the day, then I have to get ahead of the day.

What would you change about yourself?

Yoga or HIIT?

MN: Sometimes I feel I wouldn’t change anything. Then there are times I would like to change my ability to see through people.

MN: Both. More HIIT these days. I need to get back to yoga.

What was your Plan B?

Describe yourself in three words. MN: Happy. Driven. Fighter. What’s the best advice your mom ever gave you? MN: Patience, persistence and prayers.

What’s the best thing about living in Lahore? MN: I don’t know. Somebody has to tell me. What’s the one cause that’s closest to your heart? MN: Education and entrepreneurship. Both are very important for our society.

Photo Credit : Ubaid-ur-Rehman

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The HUNTSMAN Raw. Natural. Haunting. Pure. Against the backdrop of Murreeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pristine white canvas, designer Munib Nawaz takes us on a stylish sojourn. Photography : Designer : Shoes : Model : Styling :

Nasr & Nusair Munib Nawaz Hyde for Munib Nawaz Hamid Nusair Rehman

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Pastoral romance

Escape into the countryside and let the tranquility and romance of a rustic retreat charm you, while glamorous couture creation from Khadijah Shah of Elan and Fahad Hussayn provide a striking contrast to the rural setting. Photography : Designer : Hair & Makeup : Model : Styling :

Guddu & Shani Elan and Fahad Hussayn Razeen @ 360 Degree Anam Malik Haiya Bokhari @ 360 Degree

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DAEWOO EXPRESS METRO BUS SERVICE Launched

IN MULTAN

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Daewoo Express, Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest transport company, is proud to announce that it is now operating the Multan Metro Bus Service. Running along a dedicated 18.5 km corridor across the city comprising 21 stations, the metro line has state-of-the-art buses that have become a hallmark of Daewoo Express in its operations across the nation.

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Transporting 90,000 commuters daily, at an affordable fare of Rs. 20, the metro service will benefit the residents of the city and improve their quality of life. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more, discovering the historic city of Multan is now just a bus ride away, as we at Daewoo recently proved. As an ode to one of the oldest cities of the world, we commissioned documentary photographer, filmmaker and artist Malcolm Hutcheson to capture its sights and sounds, shrines and bazaars. The result is a series of enchanting snapshots that highlight Multanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s architectural marvels, cultural gems and traditional craft.

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Malcolm Hutchesonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Postcards from

MULTAN From its grand mazaars to its bustling bazaars, its ancient temples to its lofty church, its fortified old town dotted with six historic gates to its modern new metro line, Multan is a study in contrasts and a beguiling mix of the old and the new.

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Early morning cricket at the tomb of Shah Rukne-Alam, the mausoleum of Sufi saint Sheikh Ruknud-Din Abul Fateh. As one of the most visited shrines in the country, it is a hub of activity at all times of the day.

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Located some 10 minutes away from Shah Rukn-e-Alam is the much overlooked yet more intimate Shah Shams tomb. The decorated dome inspires a devotional atmosphere, yet a buzz of anticipation always hangs over the shrine and the nearby bazaar.

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Adding diversity to the historic city is the Cathedral of St. Mary, an early example of Gothic architecture from the 1850s.

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WANDERER In each street and around every corner of the old city, one has the chance of discovering a piece of the 3,000 year history of Multan. This ancient Hindu temple at Hussain Aghai now houses a madrassah.

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The sticky, nutty Sohan Halwa is one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous exports and is believed to be of Persian origin.

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Intricate latticed doors being carved at a workshop on Hassan Parwana Road. Woodcarving is one of the many crafts that Multan has to offer.

Multanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skilled artisans handcraft the leather sandals, embroidered chappals and embellished khussas that are sought-after across the country.

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Tilework on the tomb of Hazrat Bahauddin Zakariya. 142

The ancient art of blue pottery is a traditional Multani specialty. Mohammad Shabbir, master craftsman at the Institute of Blue Pottery, hard at work.

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The city of saints emanates a peaceful glow at dusk. 146

A view of the newly launched metro line.

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VISIONARY

one to watch

OMER NABI

Furniture designer Omer Nabi is known for his chic and modern designs. As CEO and Design Director of the newly opened studio space Studio-O and accompanying art gallery O-Art Space, Omer is dedicated to providing a unique aesthetic experience to art connoisseurs in Lahore. DESTINATIONS recently caught up with the designer to learn more about his inspirations and aspirations.

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What are you most proud of? ON: Definitely my children! But professionally, at the moment, I am extremely proud of launching my new customized studio space Studio-O and art gallery O-Art Space on Maratib Ali Road. Name an artist/designer who inspires you? ON: Philippe Starck. Describe your ideal space in three words? ON: Functional, balanced, chic. What is your philosophy on design and on life? ON: I believe in honesty, simplicity, comfort, creativity and elegance in both my design philosophy and life values. If not a furniture designer, what would you be today? ON: I would probably be a professional restaurateur/ chef. How important is travel to your life and your work? ON: Travel is extremely important to me. The cultural exchange does wonders to relax and rejuvenate me but also inspires me professionally. The ideas and current trends one is exposed to while travelling are truly motivating. I love/live to travel. What is your favourite city? ON: Lahore, for sure. As they say, “Lahore Lahore hai!” What is at the top of your bucket list right now? ON: Paragliding/skydiving. What advice would you give your younger self? ON: Work harder and conquer your bouts of laziness. What is your dream project? ON: I would love to do the interior of a world-class boutique resort fully equipped with restaurants and a spa in the GilgitBaltistan region of Pakistan. I wouldn’t mind doing a mid-sized boutique hotel in San Francisco or Paris either!

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Studio-O Launch

Fizza Haroon and Fatima Hassan

Omer Nabi and Nurayah Sheikh Nabi

Rehan Bashir

Natasha Nabi

Mira Sethi and Ali Sethi

Hassan Sheheryar Yasin

Asma Chishty, Sara Shahid and Shahid Akbar Faruki Rashid Rana and Aroosa Rana

Kamiar Rokni

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LEGENDS

Photo Credit: Tapu Javeri

In Memorium

HABIB FIDA ALI By Maliha Rehman

Legendary architect Habib Fida Ali passed away earlier this year, leaving behind a legacy of buildings that speak of a masterful approach to modern minimalist architecture. Through conversations with those who knew him closely, journalist Maliha Rehman gets to know the man behind the monuments.

Building of NJI Life Insurance

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LEGENDS

alk into the Lahore University of Management Sciences (LUMS) and you are immediately held transfixed by the dynamism of its structure. Constructed with Lahoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inherent red-bricks, it is an edifice that gives the impression of being widely-spaced, geometrical with rectilinear lines upheld by lofty pillars, with nooks and crannies devised to let in just the right amount of sunlight. Classic yet modern, understated yet irrevocably artistic, it is a building that defines the design philosophy of its architect, the late Habib Fida Ali. The architect passed away early this year but his aesthetic lives on in a plethora of monuments dotted about the country: among them, the allconcrete Shell building in Karachi, the Siemens office, the Forum shopping mall, Pakistan School of Fashion Design, mosques, countless residences and a proud Mohatta Palace, brought back to its former glory under Habibâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discerning eye.

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Lahore University of Management Sciences, Lahore

Siemens, Karachi

Shell House, Karachi

Pakistan Institute of Fashion & Design, Lahore

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“The Mohatta Palace had gone to utter rack and ruin,” recounts Nasreen Askari, Director of the Mohatta Palace. “It had been Fatima Jinnah’s residence and political office but following her demise, it had fallen victim to legal disputes and had gone completely neglected. I remember that as children we would refer to it as the ‘pink haunted building.’ Around the mid-90’s Habib was enlisted to restore the Palace so that it could be adaptively reused as a museum. He applied himself vigorously to the task, liaising with the trustees and having some very set views on how the Palace needed to return to its original dimensions. From tending to the very basic requirements of making the windows and doors functional, to resurrecting the floors and ceilings to their original grandeur and regenerating the building’s external façade, Habib was very thorough.”

Mohatta Palace, Karachi

“He was like this with his work, in general,” continues Nasreen, who lives in the very first home that the architect designed on returning from the Architectural Association School of Architecture in London in 1964. “He had very well-defined aesthetics and always stayed true to them. I can recall several instances when he refused to take on a commission because he didn’t agree with the client’s requirements. There was this one time when a potential client wanted aluminium windows in his home as opposed to the wooden ones that Habib preferred. Habib refused to take on the project, on principle.”

Around the mid-90â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Habib was enlisted to restore the Palace so that it could be adaptively reused as a museum

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The late architect’s penchant for heritage is evident in his own residential home near Karachi’s Clifton bridge, a white colonial stone structure older than the Mohatta Palace surrounded by large leafy trees, lovingly restored by him. The house was in shambles when Habib took it upon himself to veritably save it. “Being an architect, his house was his showpiece,” says photographer Tapu Javeri. “It’s a beautiful old house, with arches, sunlit alcoves and an expansive garden. Back when I was working with Xtra Magazine, I remember photographing umpteen shoots in Habib’s house, one of them with Neeli who was the reigning film actress at the time. Habib was particularly proud of his garden and it is where I shot his portrait for my book with photographer Arif Mehmood, Do Rukh. We managed to avoid bird droppings and laughed our way through the portrait. He was very easygoing.”

Residence of Habib Fida Ali

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Many others have similar reminiscences regarding Habib; of a genial with a refined penchant for the arts. Designer Noorjehan Bilgrami, who knew the architect from back when she was a teenager, explains, “Habib had a special way of giving undivided attention to everyone he met. It’s why everyone who knew him felt that they were very close to him. Having known him for very long, I considered him a guru when it came to the arts. When we started off the Koel Gallery, he was our advisor. He also taught at the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture where I am co-founder. In one circle or the other, I kept interacting with him. He was a true connoisseur, appreciating the beauty in everything from textiles to a piece of antique copper to a painting to architecture.”

“He was just very creative,” recalls designer Maheen Khan fondly. “He loved fashion which is why I always had a link with him. He travelled a lot and would ask me to make clothes for him to wear during his trips. I remember designing a dhoti kurta for him when he went to Sri Lanka. He was also incredibly generous. Once he said to me that he wanted me to have something that belonged to his mother and that only I would be able to appreciate it. He gifted me with an extraordinary pure silver mesh handbag, made with very fine chain-mail. I treasure it and I use it often. “It’s something by which I’ll always remember Habib – appreciative of art, of people, very sensitive and undeniably ingenious.”

Architecture, of course, was where Habib particularly excelled, lauded by many of his peers as a maestro. A typical Habib Fida Ali creation played with light and foliage, fused modern elements with classic design, merged textures and glass in clean, crisp geometry. Architect Hasan-uddin Khan, in fact, dedicated an entire tome to Habib’s creations, titled The Architecture of Habib Fida Ali, published in 2010.

Sui Southern Gas Office, Karachi

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THE FASHION FIX Ayesha Farooq

oSTuYrLE s r a t s BRUNCH H. M. Naqvi

Tabesh Khoja

Seher Muneer-Kazmi

A crisp spring afternoon, a venue overlooking the deep blue sea and a chic nautical theme ensured that the Kidney Centre Brunch lived up to expectation as the hottest event on Karachiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s social calendar. DESTINATIONS rounds up the best moments of the brunch, from the top trends spotted to its most stylish guests. 176

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sensatistripes onal

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TALK OF THE TOWN LAHORE

Henry Kim, Director Aga Khan Museum

Aga Khan Museum & LBF Welcome Dinner The Board of Directors of the Lahore Biennale Foundation along with Rashid Rana, Artistic Director of the Lahore Biennale and Sarah Hashwani, Cultural Ambassador of the Aga Khan Museum, hosted a dinner to welcome Henry Kim, Director of the Aga Khan Museum in Toronto, Canada.

Noor Aslam

Nayyar Ali Dada and Dr. Salman Shah

Henry Kim and Sarah Hashwani

Sheherezade Alam, Rashid Rana and Jahanara Saigol

Raza Ali Dada and Qudsia Rahim

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TALK OF THE TOWN LAHORE

Misaq-e-Ishq Misaq-e-Ishq, the Covenant of Love, was an evening dedicated to the beautiful works of regional poets, organized by The Lahore Biennale Foundation in collaboration with the LUMS School of Education and the Harvard South Asia Institute. Renowned musician Ali Sethi and Harvard Divinity School Professor Ali Asani enthralled the audience with musical performances interspersed with poetry recitals.

Ali Sethi and Najam Sethi

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Adeel Hashmi

Mira Sethi

Asma Chishty and Sehyr

Rashid Rana

Anis

Bilal Sami

Ali S. Asani

Nuria, Humera and Sundus

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TALK OF THE TOWN DAVOS

Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy at #WEF17 Two-time Academy Award winner Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy became the first-ever artist to co-chair the prestigious World Economic Forum’s annual meeting, under the theme “Responsive and Responsible Leadership.” The filmmaker interacted with leading international personalities at the event, such as George Clooney, Forest Whitaker, Sheryl Sandberg and Karan Johar.

Adrian Monck, Helle Thorning-Schmidt, Brian T. Moynihan, Meg Whitman, Van Houten and Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy

Sharmeen and Karan Johar

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General (r) Raheel Sharif

Forest Whitaker

Sharmeen and George Clooney

r by Abraaj

ing in Pakistan’ Dinne Sharmeen at the ‘Invest

rde and Sheryl Sandberg

awi, Ahmad Sarmast, Christine Laga

Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy, Zeinab Bad

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TALK OF THE TOWN KARACHI

Deepak Perwaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bridal Atelier Launch Debonair designer Deepak Perwani opened the doors of his brand new bridal atelier in Clifton, Karachi in an exclusive launch event attended by the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashionistas and socialites.

Deepak and Pinky Perwani

Amir Adnan and Huma Adnan

Ayesha Tammy Haq and Tehmina Khaled

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Umar Sayeed and Areeba Habib

Nadia Hussain

Maheen Karim and Nida Azwer

Frieha, Nomi and Anoushey

Grace Shelton

Atiya Khan

Abeer Rizvi

Wardha Saleem, Nubain Ali and Sanam Choudri

Shaniera Akram

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TALK OF THE TOWN WASHINGTON DC

Imran Qureshiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Medal of Arts

Internationally acclaimed Pakistani artist Imran Qureshi was honoured with a Medal of Arts Award by the US State Department for 2017, making him the first Pakistani ever to receive this honour. The awardees for this year also include Nick Cave, Jenny Holzer, Wolf Kahn and Rachel Whiteread. Qureshi was honoured in a ceremony hosted by Deputy US Secretary of State Antony Blinken in Washington D.C. on 12th January 2017 at the State Departmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic Benjamin Franklin Room.

Imran Qureshi, Pat Steir, Wolf Kahn and Nick Cave

Photography : Tony Powell

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Xenia Geroulanos, Imran Qureshi, Aisha Khali

d and guests

Imran Qureshi in conversation with Amelia Meyer, Julian Raby , Director Freer and Sackler Galleries and some guests

Photography : Neil Greentree

Massumeh Farhad

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