DESTINATIONS - Issue 1 - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine

ISSUE #01

getting cosy at

Cannoli

from the suitcase of

Ali Xeeshan Ari Pir's

Mighty Muggers on the road with

Anoushey Ashraf Acclaimed models Waleed & Sharjeel take us on a tour through the ancient walled city in their hometown Lahore.

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contents.

ISSUE #01

p.28

On the cover

p.66

GETTING

p.84

COSYat CANNOLI

on the

ROAD with

ANOUSHEY ASHRAF

DAYtheat

LAHORE

MUSEUM 10

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p.54

Near & Afar 22 24

the

Dream Destinations Airport Diaries

love, want, need

secret

garden Destinations Diary

p.108

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Destinations Desires

28

12 HRS in Lahore

Heritage

54 A Day at the Lahore Museum

Wanderer

On the Road with Anoushey Ashraf 152 NORTHISTAN 66

p.146

Off the beaten track

76

Mighty Muggers

Let’s dish 84

Getting Cosy at Cannoli

Style rules

p.134

100 From the Suitcase of Ali Xeeshan

Get the look

106 5 Best Sunglasses for 2016 117

Practically Perfect Pout For Your Holiday

My space

108 The Secret Garden

from the

eat

suitcase of

HOW TO

Object of desire 118

Under the Tuscan Sun with Attiya Noon

The Fashion Fix

128 International Trendsetter: Dubai 130 Style & the City

like a

A Life worth living

SUPER MODEL

134 How to Eat Like a Supermodel

A world of Good

p.100

146 Agents of Change Academy Award winner Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy

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Near & Afar 22 24

the

Dream Destinations Airport Diaries

love, want, need

secret

garden Destinations Diary

p.108

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Destinations Desires

28

12 HRS in Lahore

Heritage

54 A Day at the Lahore Museum

Wanderer

On the Road with Anoushey Ashraf 152 NORTHISTAN 66

p.146

Off the beaten track

76

Mighty Muggers

Let’s dish 84

Getting Cosy at Cannoli

Style rules

p.134

100 From the Suitcase of Ali Xeeshan

Get the look

106 5 Best Sunglasses for 2016 117

Practically Perfect Pout For Your Holiday

My space

108 The Secret Garden

from the

eat

suitcase of

HOW TO

Object of desire 118

Under the Tuscan Sun with Attiya Noon

The Fashion Fix

128 International Trendsetter: Dubai 130 Style & the City

like a

A Life worth living

SUPER MODEL

134 How to Eat Like a Supermodel

A world of Good

p.100

146 Agents of Change Academy Award winner Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy

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editors note from the

Welcome to our launch issue!

DESTINATIONS is a labour of love. A chronicle of faith in our country. An anthology of writing that focuses on all the best this wonderful land has to offer. It is a platform that not only highlights the beauty of Pakistan through its unique natural wonders, scenic landscapes and rich cultural traditions but also showcases its warm and welcoming people, their contribution to the global order and is, in general, a portrayal of the life they lead here.

The thrill-seekers amongst you will relish Anoushey Ashraf’s magical discovery of the land less travelled, Afghanistan, and Faizan Haqqee’s journey to conquer the majestic K-2. The inspirational Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy, fresh off her second Oscar win, shares a side of her we don’t get to read about very often and eminent travel writer Salman Rashid encounters crocodiles in Balochistan, a part of the country we can’t wait to discover more about.

Most of all, this magazine reflects our effort to build an international community of people, bring to prominence real human interaction and provide a medium where inspiring stories of true agents of change can be told.

From flamboyant Ali Xeeshan’s travel style and supermodel Mehreen Syed’s search for culinary nirvana across Europe to fashion advice by international fashionistas based in Dubai and Dallas, there’s plenty in the pages of DESTINATIONS to appeal to the style-conscious amongst you.

Our mission is to highlight not only that which is adventurous and off the beaten track but also to encourage you to step out of your home and see your neighbourhood and your city with new eyes. Our cover story for this month is called “12 Hours in Lahore – A Grand Old Food Escapade”, a tour of Lahore’s famous walled city through a photo essay that captures the vibrant culture and pulse of the historical area in a manner rarely seen before.

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

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In a nutshell, we have made the effort to present the finest of Pakistan with style, grace and the light-hearted touch that is the fabric of our society, and we hope you enjoy reading it as much as we loved putting it all together for you.

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH FEATURES EDITOR

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PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : MARIAM MUSHTAQ FEATURES EDITOR : ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH DESIGN & LAYOUT : USMAN MUNIR OFFICIAL PHOTOGRAPHER : UBAID-UR-REHMAN INVESTMENT & PLANNING : M. BILAL CIRCULATION : ALI TARIQ MEDIA SALES : NAEEM ULLAH PUBLISHED BY : DAEWOO PAKISTAN EXPRESS BUS SERVICE LTD. 231, FEROZEPUR ROAD, KALMA CHOWK, LAHORE, PAKISTAN +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : SHERIAR HASSAN CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER (DAEWOO) : USMAN HAYAT PRINTER : TOPICAL PRINTERS CONTACT (SALES) : +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) CONTACT (EDITORIAL) : +92 335 455 5764 (ALI TARIQ)

destinationspk

destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

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Anoushay Ashraf Across the Durand Line p.52 .

contributors

Salman Rashid

Laalen Khan

Faizan Haqqee

Leena Khaliq Afridi

Mighty Muggers p.52

Getting Cosy at Cannoli p.41

Northistan p.11

International Trendsetters p.35

Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, Salman Rashid is author of nine travel books. He is the only Pakistani to have seen the north face of K-2 and trekked in the shadow of this great mountain. His work – explorations, history, travels – appears in leading national publications. He tweets at

Laaleen Khan graduated from Clark University in Massachusetts with an MS in Professional Communications. Her print and digital feature spreads, editorials, columns and blogs have appeared in local as well as international publications. She is the founder of the Jane Austen Society of Islamabad, enjoys historical fiction and period drama and may be followed on social media.

Facebook: LaaleensPage; Insta: @Laaleen_Official; Twitter: @Laaleen

The grandson of poet and lexicographer Dr. Shanul Haq Haqqee, Faizan was exposed at an early age to the arts and chose to follow a career that would see him taking on the roles of VJ, playwright, actor, voice artist and filmmaker.

He has hosted two travelogues for MTV Pakistan, where he also served as Creative Head.

Currently he is working on a film titled “New Life”, which will be his first feature as writer/director.

Leena Khaliq Afridi is a fashion and lifestyle writer whose love for fashion and the written word has spanned an exciting career path for her over the years. She attended fashion college in London and has written freelance for leading Pakistani publications. She has worked for De Beers, managing their PR and Media, and founded her own writing company, The Creative Workshop, in Dubai. Currently she lives in Dallas and is working on a couple of books.

@odysseuslahori.

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NEAR & AFAR

Near&Afar

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SHIGAR, BALTISTAN

Why go: Nestled in the shadow of the mighty K-2, this charming town has something for everyone – gorgeous views, interesting history and stunning architecture.

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Islamabad

Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eying a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels this spring.

Shigar

Where to stay: Originally the fort palace of the Raja of Shigar built in the 17th century, the Serena Shigar Fort has been turned into a luxurious hotel set in the side of a mountain.

What to do: Explore the scenic Shigar city or trek up to the K-2 base camp if in the mood for adventure. Other itinerary items can include a visit to the Satpara Lake, renowned for its brilliant blue waters, and the spectacular Deosai Plains.

How to get there: PIA runs daily flights from Islamabad to Skardu, but be warned because the schedule can be quite erratic given the terrain and weather conditions of the area.

KYOTO, JAPAN Why go: In contrast to the fast-paced life of Japan’s most visited city, Tokyo, Kyoto is a gorgeous and serene paradise of temples, traditional gardens and exotic cuisine, all meant to be sampled at leisure.

Where to stay: While the city has its share of luxury chain hotels, we recommend picking one of the charming boutique

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establishments for a truly special experience. Hotel Mume features a traditional nature-inspired décor and excellent hospitality.

What to do: Enjoy the magical cherry blossoms while taking a walk in one of Kyoto’s many parks; visit Gion, the geisha quarter; shop for souvenirs such as kyo-ningyo dolls, bamboo hats and traditional Japanese fans; and sip on tea at a traditional tea-house.

How to get there: Thai Airways flies to Tokyo via Bangkok from all major cities in Pakistan. From Tokyo, the high-speed shinkansen train will get you Tokyo to Kyoto in 3 hours and 30 minutes.

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NEAR & AFAR

Tom Ford

Sadaf Kanwal

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley

Kendall Jenner

Near &Afar Airport Diaries:

Layer Up

Mahira Khan

Deepika Padukone

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The trick to braving freezing airport temperatures?

Layer up! These style stars from home and abroad show us how to add multiple layers into one chic ensemble.

Jessica Alba

Fawad Khan

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LOVE, WANT, NEED

DESTINATIONSdesires Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

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The Drum Clinic Sign up for a class at The Drum Clinic in Lahore and let loose your inner musician. Led by Atif Saeed of the underground band Quadrum, the drumming group is a great opportunity to experience the oddly meditative power of drums while connecting with interesting new people.

1 The Saucy Mistress With its decadent desserts and sinful dips, The Saucy Mistress has a variety of delicious treats to tempt Karachi’s taste buds. Made to order and served in charming mason jars, the goodies, with quirky names such as “Why Did I Get Married”, “Shall We Dance” and “Little Miss Sunshine”, can be ordered off Facebook.

eight compelling stories by architects, writers & photographers

Edited by Arshad Faruqi & Amean J.

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Eight

by Amean J and Arshad Faruqi Bring a slice of Pakistan’s thriving contemporary arts scene home with Eight, a coffee table book connecting writers, photographs and architects in 8 stunning visual essays.

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“Mahi Mera” by Ali Sethi Lose yourself in the hypnotic melody of Ali Sethi’s latest single, “Mahi Mera”, produced in collaboration with Punjabi folk singer Jamaldin. With its uplifting dhol beats, Jamaldin’s rustic vocals and Sethi’s masterful classical rendition, the song makes for the perfect addition to your travel playlist.

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Tasselled Sandals by Mango Block heels ruled the style circuit in fall and the trend continues to sweep fashionistas off their feet this season. This tasselled leather pair by Mango is versatile as well as trendy.

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A FOOD, CULTURE & HERITAGE: ACCLAIMED MODELS, WALEED & SHARJEEL TAKE US ON A TOUR THROUGH PARTS OF THE ANCIENT WALLED CITY IN THEIR HOMETOWN LAHORE.

By Zahra Hidayatullah

Waleed's Wardrobe : Styling : Photography : Transportation Partner :

HSY Toni & Guy Ubaid-ur-Rehman Daewoo Cab

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t’s that time of the year when the provincial capital of Punjab is shrouded in a mystical mist, the season is festive and the mood jovial. In an attempt to capture the best of the local culinary delights against the historical backdrop of the city in 12 hours, we have Lahore-based Sharjeel and Waleed guiding us through the most traditional quarters of the ancient walled city.

Winner of the Best Male Model 2014 Award by Fashion Pakistan, Waleed Khalid is the face of numerous top fashion campaigns in the country; while Best Male Model nominee at the 14th Lux Style Awards, Sharjeel Baig was recently seen staring at us from Coca Cola billboards nationwide.

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9:00 AM

Taxali Gate Time to get moving! Breakfast is an inherent part of life in Lahore. Like most other locals, Sharjeel and Waleed believe in starting their day with a hearty meal. Located on the west side of the Walled City, in the vicinity of the Taxali Gate, Fazal-e-Haq or Phajja Paye as the joint is colloquially known, is a local food phenomena and their favourite eatery in the area. Famous for the rich entree of mutton trotter curry it serves, the place caters to food connoisseurs almost all day and all night – shutting down only for a short while in the wee hours of the morning.

However, the area continues to serve as a popular food hub offering mouth-watering halwa puri from Taj Mahal and Shahabuddin Halwai; delicious lassi and sardai from Bhola Lassi Wala, the milk shop Borrowing its name from the down the street; chickpeas Royal Mint (or ‘Taxal’ in Urdu) cooked traditionally in hot of the Mughal era that was once located here, the gate is spices from Baba Nogaza Pir situated opposite the famous Chanay Wala; beef shanks from Phakko Bong Wala and teaching hospital of King authentic tawa (pan-fried) Edward Medical College, the chicken and qeema (minced Lady Willingdon Hospital. meat) paratha (fried bread) Today, with commercial encroachments and change in from food vendors dotting the area. land use, both the mint and the physical structure of the gate seem to have vanished.

The history of this quarter is fascinating. It is said that Lahore’s famous sufi poet and saint, Shah Hussain was born here in 1538 AD.

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Eating paye (mutton trotters) to their heart’s content for breakfast leaves little room for lunch.

Sharjeel and Waleed head east towards Delhi Gate. The walk is not so short but there is much to see and explore in and around the bustling bazaars of this historical landmark.

Delhi Gate

One of the most famous gates of Lahore, Delhi Darwaza (or gate) as the name suggests opens towards Delhi, once the seat of the Mughal Empire. Built by the third Mughal Emperor, Akbar the Great (r. 1556-1605), the area is steeped in history and culture and pays homage to its grand past through the cultural markers located here.

Hence, it is one of the few from amongst the 13 gates of Lahore to have been rehabilitated and restored to its former glory.

12:00 PM

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The 13 Gates of Lahore Old Lahore was quite a place of wonder. Initially a walled city enclosed by a 9-meter high brick rampart marked by 13 gates, it was a city that was favoured by many a king and emperor. During the latter half of the 16th century (sometime between 1584 and 1598) then ruler of the Indian Empire, Emperor Akbar the Great constructed these marvellous arched structures of wood and iron to protect the city and its people from foreign invasions.

However, the King could not have foreseen 300 years into the future when, during the 19th century, the British demolished many of these grand structures in

an attempt to de-fortify the city. They left only one such passageway standing in its original form, the Roshnai Gate, situated between the Badshahi Mosque and the Lahore Fort.

Although later efforts were made to rebuild and restore these archways, today only six of these ancient structures survive; namely Kashmiri Gate, Sheranwala Gate, Delhi Gate, Lohari Gate, Bhatti Gate and Roshnai Gate. The others are Masti Gate, Yakki Gate, Akbari Gate, Mochi Gate, ShahAlam Gate, Mori Gate and Taxali Gate.

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2:30 PM s one enters the area, the stately Shahi Hammam (royal bathhouse) is situated on the left. Waleed and Sharjeel pause next to its side entrance and order a glass of fresh sugarcane juice. A short walk further down leads one to the resplendent mosque known as Masjid Wazir Khan. With an open courtyard and a central water feature, in the summer it is a few degrees cooler here than the crowded town outside its doors. With its ornately detailed, hand-painted fresco panels, it is indeed a magnificent Mughal architecture marvel. The boys enter the mosque and find a little oasis of calm.

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5:30 PM

Sheikhupurian Bazaar and Beyond As the sun goes down, and the market in the area comes alive, it is time to head back west through Kashmiri Bazaar to Taxali Gate. Cultural enthusiasts, Waleed and Sharjeel share glimpses from their tour as they walk past one of the biggest wholesale shoe markets in Pakistan, Sheikhupurian Bazaar, and witness generational shoe-makers hard at work making the perfect khussas (traditional footwear).

A few steps across the bazaar and the two enter Lahnga Mandi.

Sharjeel loves to jam and picks up a guitar at one of the shops to strum a few strings with the local musicians. With around a hundred shops selling and repairing sitar, tabla, dholak, dhol, daf, harmonium, ek tara, toomba, flute, saxophone and guitars, this bazaar is one of the oldest and largest markets in Pakistan for all sorts of traditional and modern musical instruments.

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In light of its cultural significance, this area could have been a top tourist district but the presence of Shahi Mohalla (royal quarters) has brought it much notoriety. More commonly known as the Heera Mandi, the eponymous bazaar had initially been set up as a grain market by one Heera Singh – cousin and courtier of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in the early 19th century. It later developed as the Red Light District with the arrival of dancing girls in the locality.

Yet what is lesser known about this area of much historical significance is the fact that it was once the centre of arts and learning. Eminent literary figures such as Ustad Daman, Maulana Altaf Hussain Hali and Allama Iqbal all lived here. Also notable are the impressive palatial mansions like Haveli Dhiyan Singh, Haveli of Khushaal Singh, Haveli Awais Meer and Yousaf Salahuddin’s Haveli amongst others, that are part of its heritage and alone worth a visit here.

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7:15 PM

Fort Road, Food Street

The sun has set and bright lights create a magical ambience around the area. As they step out of the music store and turn around the corner, walking past Pir Nogaza Shrine, Waleed and Sharjeel find themselves at the Fort Road Food Street.

Located near Roshnai Gate, the lane runs parallel to one side of the Badshahi Masjid. Established as a food promenade by the provincial government, it is famous for serving authentic desi food in a momentous setting of the historic ensemble – Badshahi Mosque, Hazuri Bagh and Lahore Fort.

The experience is almost surreal!

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8:30 PM trolling down this grand road, they cross by Cooco’s Den, renowned artist Iqbal Hussain’s culinary venture that offers breathtaking views of the mosque courtyard and the Walled City beyond. Set up in his rehabilitated ancestral home, Hussain’s celebrated restaurant made a full feature in TIME magazine.

The boys are overcome with awe and respect by the grandeur of our heritage and culture as they continue to walk in the shadow of the past. Finding a kiosk by the street, they head over and order anda tikki (eggs minced with ground meat patty) with fresh naan (baked bread) for dinner. It is simple and delicious. They finally wrap things up and round off their evening with the delicacy that serves as a symbolic end of a meal, paan.

After all it’s been quite a day!

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9:00 PM

Badshahi Masjid

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For the complete video experience of this journey, scan the code with your smartphone or log on to www.destinations.com.pk/12hrs

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HERITAGE

DAY MUSEUM AT THE

DESTINATIONS explores the stunning colonial architecture and extensive galleries of the impressive Lahore Museum.

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HERITAGE For anyone interested in Lahore’s colonial past, a walk down lower Mall Road serves as the ideal history lesson. The neighbourhood, which houses some of the city’s most important educational and cultural institutions, provides a vivid illustration of colonial architecture – whether in the imposing façade of the Government College building, the sprawling National College of Arts or the Tollington Market. Perhaps the grandest example is provided by the Lahore Museum, erected in 1894 but displaying a repository of historical artifacts that can be traced back to as early as 6 BC. While the rich collections housed within the museum have enthralled cultural enthusiasts and history buffs over the decades, the building is a work of art in itself.

With its grand domes, majestic red brick exterior, a beautiful marble portico framing the entrance and Mughal-era details in the doorways, it is a striking landmark that inspires awe.

A steady stream of visitors can be seen lining up to pay the Rs. 20 entrance fee (Rs. 10 for children) or picnicking in lawns nestled in the shadow of the picturesque building throughout the week. According to the museum’s present director, Sumaira Samad, the public’s engagement with the historical institution is a result not only of its accessibility but is rooted in its history.

Did you

know?

With over 20 galleries displaying the rich cultural heritage of the region, the Lahore Museum is the largest space dedicated to arts and antiquities in the country. The collections housed within its magnificent red brick structure include the Indus Valley Civilization, ancient manuscripts, miniatures, Islamic art, arms and armoury and contemporary art to name just a few. While it depicts our national heritage, it is also cosmopolitan in nature, showcasing artifacts from Burma, Bhutan, Nepal, Central Asia, the Middle East and Africa.

“The museum was created as a public institution and was one of the few institutions for which public funding was raised. At that time, it was a novel idea for people to be able to see things that they had only heard or read about; or which were confined to the homes of the rich only. This exercise to raise money gave them a sense of ownership and involvement, which was one of the reasons for the museum’s huge success even in its initial days,” explains Ms. Samad.

Originally established in the nearby Wazir Khan’s Baradari in 1855, the museum soon outgrew the limited space and was shifted to the Tollington Market. Back then, it was used as an exhibition space for antiquities as well as agricultural and industrial goods. As public interest in the museum and its burgeoning collections grew, the need was felt for a purpose-build space and the Lahore Museum as we know it was created in 1894.

The current museum building was a product of the joint forces of three great men: John Lockwood Kipling: Impressed by the richness of Indian art, teacher and illustrator Kipling arrived in India from London in 1865. Ten years later, he was appointed Principal of Mayo School of Arts (present day National College of Arts). During his tenure, he helped design the new building for the Lahore Museum and also served as one of its first curators. His son Rudyard would go on to fictionalize and immortalize their shared love for the museum and its surrounding areas in the classic, “Kim”.

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Bhai Ram Singh Singh was one of the most celebrated architects of pre-partition India. A student of Kipling, he impressed his teacher with his talent and was handpicked to work on the Lahore Museum project.

He also redesigned the Mayo College of Arts and was appointed its Vice Principal in 1896.

Ganga Ram Known as the “father of modern Lahore”, Ganga Ram was a civil engineer and philanthropist who oversaw the construction of many of Lahore’s grand buildings including the GPO, Aitchison College and the Lahore Museum.

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Three years into her tenure as Director, Ms. Samad says she continues to be amazed every day by the breadth of the collections owned by the museum. “It contains such an amazing treasure of our heritage and it is truly a cosmopolitan place, depicting our interesting and vast history. One might read about an ancient civilization such as Gandhara in history books but the impact of seeing it displayed here, that sense of immediacy and connection that is forged, is an incomparable feeling,” she states.

Incidentally, the museum’s Gandhara gallery is its most celebrated, drawing visitors not only from across Pakistan but countries such as Japan and South Korea, who flock to see its extensive exhibit of Buddhist sculpture which depicts the life story of Buddha in a fascinating series of friezes, panels and statues. The most famous amongst them, and one that is considered the museum’s crowning glory, is the statue of the Fasting Buddha – one of the rarest and most intricate examples of Gandharan art.

The museum’s coin collection is also noteworthy, and includes coins from sixth century BC issued during the time of the Achaemenian Empire. Although the extensive collection is made up of over 40,000 pieces, Ms. Samad reveals that only a fraction of those are on display and out of the exhibited pieces, a majority are replicas.

The director is determined to use her time as head of the institution to create better engagement with the public and encourage a richer dialogue. One of the best ways to do that, she maintains, is through collaboration. “I believe that collaboration is integral to the growth of museums. You need to involve people with different skills and expertise; museums require and thrive on interaction,” she says.

One such collaborative exhibition was held in February in partnership with the Lahore Literary Festival. Inaugurated by art historian B.N. Goswami, it gave the museum a chance to display its rich collection of “Pahari” miniatures, a genre of miniature painting that originated in the hills of Punjab. The exhibition made public works that had not been displayed since the time of partition.

“People should get a chance to see everything,” declares Ms. Samad. “It is, after all, their history and their past.”

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The

Exhibit

In its quest to generate greater interest and engage with a wider audience, the Lahore Museum, in partnership with UNESCO, recently organized a cultural and educational initiative on the fascinating yet underemphasized Indus Valley Civilization. Titled “Rediscovering Harappa”, the special exhibition featured ancient Harappan artifacts from the museum’s permanent collection juxtaposed with the works of contemporary potters Sheherzade Alam and Mohammad Nawaz, both of whom found their inspiration within the ancient civilization.

The Indus Valley Civilization (3300 to 1300 BC), also referred to as the Harappan civilization, is one of the three ancient civilizations of the world. While its contemporaries, the Egyptian and the Mesopotamian civilizations, have received global attention given their ostentatious and larger than life nature, ancient Harappa has remained in the shadows. “We wanted to focus on Harappa because it’s not appreciated enough,” explains Ms. Samad. “While it might not be spectacular to look at, it was far more advanced and modern than its contemporaries. It is the bedrock of who we are today.”

Dr. Tehnyat Majeed, chief curator of the special exhibition, says that the most valuable lesson one can learn from the Indus civilization, and one that she wanted to share with students through the project’s educational component, was to celebrate the extraordinary in the very ordinary things of life. “The most pervasive quality of Indus remains is that of humility: there is no glorified individual, no palaces, no overt display of wealth in their homes, nor in their graves. Most Indus objects are small and unassuming and for that reason easily dismissed as commonplace.”

Yet, given their skill in urban planning, uniquely egalitarian societal structure and expertise in trade, the Indus people were anything but ordinary.

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HERITAGE

The

Exhibit

In its quest to generate greater interest and engage with a wider audience, the Lahore Museum, in partnership with UNESCO, recently organized a cultural and educational initiative on the fascinating yet underemphasized Indus Valley Civilization. Titled “Rediscovering Harappa”, the special exhibition featured ancient Harappan artifacts from the museum’s permanent collection juxtaposed with the works of contemporary potters Sheherzade Alam and Mohammad Nawaz, both of whom found their inspiration within the ancient civilization.

The Indus Valley Civilization (3300 to 1300 BC), also referred to as the Harappan civilization, is one of the three ancient civilizations of the world. While its contemporaries, the Egyptian and the Mesopotamian civilizations, have received global attention given their ostentatious and larger than life nature, ancient Harappa has remained in the shadows. “We wanted to focus on Harappa because it’s not appreciated enough,” explains Ms. Samad. “While it might not be spectacular to look at, it was far more advanced and modern than its contemporaries. It is the bedrock of who we are today.”

Dr. Tehnyat Majeed, chief curator of the special exhibition, says that the most valuable lesson one can learn from the Indus civilization, and one that she wanted to share with students through the project’s educational component, was to celebrate the extraordinary in the very ordinary things of life. “The most pervasive quality of Indus remains is that of humility: there is no glorified individual, no palaces, no overt display of wealth in their homes, nor in their graves. Most Indus objects are small and unassuming and for that reason easily dismissed as commonplace.”

Yet, given their skill in urban planning, uniquely egalitarian societal structure and expertise in trade, the Indus people were anything but ordinary.

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HERITAGE

"The most pervasive quality of Indus remains is that of humility: there is no glorified individual, no palaces, no overt display of wealth in their homes, nor in their graves."

Some of the most striking features of this ancient civilization that once occupied the land we now live on highlighted through “Rediscovering Harappa� are: Symbols - the swastika and the unicorn

Earliest example of democracy

The modern world’s interpretation of the symbol of the swastika is largely negative, thanks to its usurpation by Nazi Germany, but it was known to signify well-being in ancient cultures. Some of the earliest examples of the swastika were engraved on decorative seals found among Harappan ruins.

There is no evidence to suggest the existence of hierarchal structures within the Harappan society.

The houses appear to be more or less equal in size and no trace of a ruling class or group living in luxury has been found. This lack of social disparity is a particularly unique aspect of the ancient civilization.

The unicorn, often thought to be the product of western mythology, also appears on seals discovered in the Indus region. The bull-like creature with a single horn appears on numerous seals and whether it depicts a real or a mythical animal remains unclear

Games and toys The Harappans are believed to be the first people to have used the dice. The cubical dice found in Harappa is almost exactly like the one we use nowadays, more than 5,000 years on. Remains of a board game, similar in style to modern-day chess, have also been discovered.

Terracotta toy figurines, depicting animals such as bulls and oxen as well as movable carts similar to what we see in rural areas today, were intricately detailed and very realistic.

Rediscovering Harappa will run at the Lahore Museum till the 21st of April 2016.

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Trade, not war The discovery of an extensive and consistent metric system speaks of a sophisticated trade network. The Harappans were skilled in commerce and used their expertise in the area to connect with far-off communities and expand. This is contrast to other civilizations of the time, which were warring societies and usurped territory by killing others. Very little evidence of violence has, in fact, been discovered in Harappa. The bronze spears and arrow-heads that have been discovered are believed to have been used primarily for hunting.

An urban civilization Harappa is considered to be the first urban civilization, with its exceptional town planning, a sophisticated system of draining and sewerage the likes of which did not appear in any western society till much later, as well as granaries for food storage and massive walls for protection.

Decorative seals with engravings depicting a horned creature, considered to be the earliest depiction of the unicorn.

Ladles and cups made out of shell, thought to have been used to dole out liquids such as oil and water during sacred rituals.

Examples of hand crafted terracotta objects, such as pots, figurines and bangles.

Terracotta figurines, such as this female form, display the skill of the Harappans at three-dimensional clay modelling.

Cubical weights in graduated sizes used for trade and commerce by the Harappans.

The chess and dice are remarkably similar to their modern versions.

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WANDERER

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on the

ROAD with

Anoushey Ashraf

The star’s wanderlust takes her

to destinations near and afar.

Super celebrity Anoushey Ashraf recently returned from an unforgettable trip across the Durand Line where she explored a land less travelled and experienced a country far more welcoming than she had originally imagined.

The trip to Afghanistan, with all its excitement and its wonders, inculcated in her a spirit of wanderlust and the love for being footloose and out and about.

Back in her hometown, Karachi, a city of 20 million people, our favourite adventurer loves to wander off on the road to nowhere and manages to find spaces that she can call her own.

Photography : Jaffer Hasan

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Across the

DURAND LINE

The Afghan Travelogue

By Anoushey Ashraf

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On her wonderful journey of self discovery: “It’s true when they say that we should follow our heart and the universe will automatically open doors for us. It all started when I turned 30; I felt I was getting old and I needed a ‘calling’. One evening, in pursuit of finding the ultimate passion, I spent ample time making a list of things that I loved doing most in life. By the end of this exercise, I realized a couple of things. Firstly, I would always be the person wanting to learn something new every day and that there was nothing wrong with it. Secondly, my fondness for animals, my work and most importantly my love for travel surpassed all.

Following this self-realization, I have been trying to establish myself as a ‘Wandering Pakistani’. Soon after, I was approached by Integrated Media (a production house) looking for my skills to co-host an informative, brilliantly produced, high budget travel show. Our first season, on air these days, was shot not only in Pakistan but also Afghanistan.

Most people would have been apprehensive about travelling out to a country known little for anything other than war; however, my wanderlust got the better of me.”

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WANDERER

First stop

Kabul

Afghanistan’s capital city and also its largest. Legendarily founded by Cain and Abel, it dates back more than 2,500 years ago. Due to its strategic location along trade routes between South and Central Asia, it has been fought over, conquered and ruled by the region’s greatest and mightiest Empires and religions.

The city has seen many hard battles throughout its long story but the incredible resilience of its people has always managed to keep intact its spirit of survival.

WHILE IN KABUL...

ON THE VIBE OF THE CITY:

Kabul Airport is relatively small and a rather worn-out establishment. Outside, moneychangers casually hang out on makeshift stalls dealing with the currencies of the world as if there were selling samosas in Saddar on a regular day. It was all very funny until I was told that it was 1.68 Pakistani rupees to an Afghani and that their ‘money’ was substantially stronger than ours.

Ouch! How embarrassing!

“I spent the day cycling on the outskirts of Kabul with those fantastic women. How exhilarating it was cycling for three straight hours in the cold.

From what I could see of the city during the car ride to our guesthouse, I could tell it was similar to the city of Peshawar. Crowded, dusty, cold but alive.

Our call time for the shoot next day was 6 am. Our first stop was the Kabul National Stadium where girls from the Afghanistan National Women’s Cycling Team were preparing for an upcoming race. I was already amazed at the amount of women I’d seen early in the morning, dressed in jeans, boots, jackets and scarves taking public transport or walking across to their places of work. I somehow hadn’t expected this sort of freedom in Kabul.

KABUL WOMEN BREAKING STEREOTYPES: “The women’s team surprised me even further.

Riding bikes, living their dream of winning medals, dieting, taking selfies for Facebook, discussing makeup and the latest international trends, they were like any other group of women from across the world. What had made me think otherwise? Why was the blue burka omnipresent in our subconscious when it comes to women in Afghanistan? Not all women wore it. This is the importance of travel. It gives you an amazing understanding of the world around you. It helps you open your eyes, become aware.”

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The capital is full of life during the day. One has to shop at the famous Shahr-e-Nau where you can find some awesome leather goods; local hand-knotted carpets, perfumes, beautiful Afghan jewellery as well as goods from China and Pakistan and bargain to your hearts’ will.”

FOOD AND DRINK IN KABUL: “There is also some amazing food that is to be tasted here. The more local you go, the better the food. Their produce is rather fresh even though a tad bit heavy for me. Fat, meat, oil, rice and moti rotis with everything – not very healthy, but OH SO YUMMY! I was on vacation, and you will be too if and when you go, so make you leave your “I only have soup and avocado for lunch” self behind. Try Ehsan Burger for a burger like no other – pita wrapped with meat, sausages, mayo, fries, cucumbers etc. Fattening but amazing!

There are juice joints everywhere that are cleaner than most restaurants I’ve seen.

There were a few fancy restaurants too and we did eat some awesome food at one but the security checks to get into restaurants where the ‘elite’ hang out was just too much for me.”

A Center of Art & Culture Herat

An outpost of the Achaemenid Empire some 2,500 years ago, Herat was later defined as one of the greatest centres of medieval Islamic culture and learning.

Emperor Shahrukh, second ruler of the Timurid dynasty, packed his court with scholars, poets and artists. Jami composed his greatest poems here and it was in this city that Bihzad created his refined works of miniature art that would go on to influence Indian art. The Emperor’s wife, the dynamic visionary, Gowhar Shad, commissioned many fine buildings in Herat.

Once known as the “Pearl of Khorasan”, it was later dubbed the “Gateway To India” and even today its pre-dominantly Persian-speaking population remains sophisticated, cultured and well educated.

LOCAL CUSTOMS IN HERAT:

CITYSCAPE:

“Our second stop in Afghanistan was the beautiful city of Herat. I found it to be very tourist-friendly with lots to do and see. It may be hard to explain, but even though the law of the country doesn’t require women to cover their head, in this town it’s more of an ‘understood’ thing and my producer very sweetly asked me to do so. Once this issue was out of the way, my experience was amazing.

“Considering the losses the city has suffered due to continuous conflicts, its fortunate that many Islamic monuments have managed to survive, with quite a few of them getting restored. I was lucky enough to visit the Herat Glass Market where once can find some beautiful handmade blown glass that Herat is known for the world over. The Citadel is also a must visit.

The city is nothing like Kabul. It’s more like a small green town in Punjab. The people are good-looking and I was invited to more than a couple of mausiqi evenings, much to my delight.

The people here proudly hold on to traditions and even though the city has been fought over repeatedly, it has miraculously retained its historical significance and its reputation as a place of culture.”

HOW TO

book a trip to AFGHANISTAN “The embassy of Afghanistan is in Clifton, Karachi. If you are interested, go online and find out their operation timings, get forms, speak to the officer and

One thing we all noticed was how clean the streets of Herat were. No overflowing, smelly, offensive garbage dumps. No political or religious wall markings in the city either. Remarkable. Never underestimate smaller countries. I felt safe here as well. Having to cover up can come across as very restricting to many, but after much thought and understanding, I realized that if one decides to accept the culture of a place instead of complaining about it, you’ll have a relatively easy time.”

get your visa issued in three working days. It’s a rather simple process, contrary to what I had thought.

Flying options from Pakistan to Kabul are only through Islamabad. I flew PIA but later discovered Safi Airline from Afghanistan is also a comfortable and convenient carrier.

Even though Afghanistan seems a world and a half away, the flight from Islamabad on an ATR is 55 minutes only, perhaps quicker on bigger planes.”

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Final Destination

Mazar-e-Sharif

Meaning “Noble Shrine”, the name of the third largest city of Afghanistan is a reference to the blue-tiled monument with twin azure domes known as the Shrine of Hazrat Ali, cousin and son-in-law of Prophet Muhammad (SAW).

A historic city in its own right, it is also believed that the famous Sufi poet and philosopher Jalal al-Din Rumi was also born in the greater region of Mazar-e-Sharif.

“A couple of days later, we flew to our last destination for our travel show, the city of Mazar-e-Sharif. There is absolutely no doubt about the fact that Mazar has international recognition because this is where the famous shrine of Imam Ali (A.S) is. Many people believe that Hazrat Ali (A.S) is actually buried here. Of course, there is a conflict on the authenticity of this fact and many have been fighting over it for decades.

However, in my eyes, these are the stories that make the history of the world so fascinating. Whatever the argument is, one imam at the shrine explained it best to me. The light of Allah is everywhere, wherever you look for it, he said. For those who believe this is the shrine of one of the greatest men that ever lived, let them think so, for there is no harm in that.

The shrine itself was breathtaking. Words fail me, but my pictures might do some justice. A little before Magreb prayers, the hundreds of white pigeons that reside there make for the perfect backdrop. I relive those moments at the shrine ever so often. Prayers for Pakistan were made and many emotions were felt during the time we spent recording in the premises.

Mazar is perhaps the biggest Shi-ite city of the country with a population of little over 600k consisting of a mix of ethnic Hazara, Pashtun, Tajik, Turkmen and Uzbek. A fun fact: it was also the first city to fall to the U.S.-backed Northern Alliance after the Taliban took over Afghanistan. We spent a day here and there wasn’t much else to do, but a special shout out to the people of this city for being so big hearted and hospitable.”

“As I bid Afghanistan farewell, I felt emotional and heavy inside. My heart hurts for the people of that country. It saddens me to see what years of warfare has reduced them to and how desperately they want to come out of it all. Yes, it isn’t entirely safe or properly developed and there were days I wanted to pull my hair out because there wasn’t one damn thing to do past 4 pm when the sun went down. I also wouldn’t recommend you pack your bags and book your next holiday here. But, with a little effort, a big heart and certainly the ‘right’ connections, it’s most certainly worth the visit.

Today, I feel worldlier and more mature and have returned to Pakistan with a far better sense of this beautiful world around me. To the people of Afghanistan, a big thank you for being the best hosts in the world and letting me explore your world far beyond the well-marketed burkas and beards.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

MIGHTY muggers

By Salman Rashid

The shrine of Ari Pir in Balochistan has an unlikely guard – a lake teeming with crocodiles believed to have the power to grant the prayers of devotees.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK n February 1987, my friend Maqbool Abbas and I trekked up the Hub River from the seaboard to its source. En route, we had an overnight at Ari Pir, north of Dureji in Lasbela district of Balochistan. It was then not known who this saint was except that he lived in a time ‘long before the grandfathers’. The burial was an unpretentious whitewashed sepulchre with a swaddling of greens sheets forming a sort of turban for the headstone. There was no dome above.

Here the Saruna River coming down from the northwest meets the bigger Hub. As it breaks out of its tight rocky gorge, the Saruna broadens out to form a lovely emerald tarn which, so I was told, was more than twenty metres deep and alive with crocodiles. On that long ago February afternoon, after we had watched the reptiles sunning themselves on a sandbank, Ahmed the inn keeper told us the story: those accused of thievery were

home before.

This was something I had never expected for who would remember a barely known writer from three decades before. Says a lot for Aslam, I suppose. Even more surprising, he seemed to know of much of my work. And, best of all, Aslam Bhootani is a first-class and very lavish host. As for Dureji, in his years of power he has transformed the little village of 1987 into a lovely little modern town that could shame many parts of Lahore.

On the morrow we drove to Ari Pir. Accommodation for pilgrims was now a concrete shed next to a mosque. The untainted, earthy picturesqueness of this wild and beautiful country of all those years ago was somewhat faded. A gated weir has been built across the lower end of the lake to raise water level.

To my eye however the lake seemed just the way I had first seen it back in 1987. Even in the early

It is believed that devotees whose offerings are accepted by the crocodiles – colloquially and more appropriately referred to as ‘mor sahib’ – are fortunate for their wishes will come true. pitched into the lake. And such was the divinity of the crocs that only the thief was attacked and devoured by the crocs. The innocent could thrash around all they wanted and yet remain unmolested by the brutes. This beastly prescience was attributed to the power of Ari Pir.

morning cool, we did not see any crocs sunning themselves. But there was a family of devotees lounging around the pilgrims’ shed waiting for their goat to be slaughtered. Part of the meat was to be cooked and consumed by the pilgrims; the rest offered to the crocs to accept the devotees’ prayers.

I returned sixteen years later. The grave had a domed structure and some makeshift huts served as accommodation for pilgrims. Ahmed was replaced by another man and the story was that Ari was the son of Mahmud the robber king of Ghazni. He came here to fall in love with the pretty daughter of the king of Saruna. But the king did not quite take to the ogler and had him banished. The saint cursed the land; the river dried out, agriculture died and verdant Saruna turned desert.

It is believed that devotees whose offerings are accepted by the crocodiles – colloquially and more appropriately referred to as ‘mor sahib’ – are fortunate for their wishes will come true. The khalifa, seventyish with a skull cap and silver whiskers, came around walking with a tapping cane and an officious air to supervise the butchering. Occasionally instructing the pair cutting up the animal, he played supremely aloof as I photographed him. Taking a shoulder and the offal he walked with us and the pilgrims in tow to the spot where the Saruna just begins to widen to form the lake and sat down on a waterside rock.

A great and pernicious saint, I thought. And all my life I had laboured under the notion that saints were supposed to be benign and full of the milk of human kindness.

This time around at Ari Pir, I was with my friends Aziz Jamali and Akmal. We overnighted at Dureji at the Bhootani home. In 1987, Maqbool and I had called at this home to meet Saleh Bhootani and seek his permission for travel in his chiefdom. This time it was his younger brother Aslam, who is well-known for his tenures in the Balochistan assembly. When Aziz introduced us, Aslam observed that I had been to his 78

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‘Ao mor sahib, ayo!’ the man called out with his voice reverberating off the burnished walls of the Saruna gorge. Repeated calls made for some bustle in the reeds on the far bank right across us. And then the beast came into full view as it slithered into the green waters. Almost three metres long and apparently rather well-fed, mor sahib wagged its tail to propel itself into the middle of the stream. The khalifa tossed the shoulder into the water and the beast grabbed it quickly before going under.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Two other crocs, the bigger one leading, were unhurriedly gliding in from the opposite direction. The khalifa tossed in the offal to land about a couple of metres from the leading snout. The croc slowed down and came up to the offal as if on idling engine. With its snout nudging the bloated gizzard it stopped and remained motionless.

Meanwhile, mor sahib, the star of the day, surfaced and with two fearsome chomping motions swallowed the shoulder, flesh, grist and bone. Loud cries of ‘mashallah, mashallah, alhamdolilla!’ went up just as they do when a newborn infant burps after its first feed. The pencil-thin bearded Karachi man told me that when mor sahib exhibits his act of feeding, it is signal that the petitioner’s prayer has been heard. The idiot did not know that crocodiles do not swallow underwater; that they have to surface to swallow. But then superstitious belief has never been famous for sensibility.

We waited to see how the laggard of a croc who got the offal for his tardiness would eat his meal. But for a full thirty minutes it remained motionless, its nose glued to the gizzard. Aziz, who has a sense of humour as sharp as we believe only Lahoris can have, said the beast was finicky about its meal and they might have to butcher another goat for it. But there were no more goats to be had.

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‘Well, we have no more goats but we could just as well cut up good old Akmal and pitch him into the water for the spectacle,’ said Aziz. ‘But unfortunately, I cannot spare him today.’

Aziz and Akmal who had earlier been inside the tomb, said there was now a sign in the building that said this was the burial site of Mohammad bin Haroon who had come hither with Mohammad bin Qasim. Now, bin Haroon was the governor of Kech (Turbat) at the time of the invasion led by bin Qasim and was ordered by Hujjaj bin Yusuf to accompany the invading force to Sindh. However, when the army arrived at Lasbela, bin Haroon went down with the ague and passed away. Just outside Lasbela town, to the northwest, there sits the tomb of that man alias Ari Pir, a fine example of early Muslim architecture in Balochistan.

Ari appears to be a common name or a common corruption for a name. We have Ari Jam, the medieval king of Kech whose son Punnu lost his heart to the beauteous Sassui of Bhambore. We have Ari in Lasbela and we have Ari on the Saruna. As well as all these, there is an Ari Pir by the village of Jhangara near Sehwan. I have not worked out if it is actually a corruption of Haroon, as they say, or of Aali. Whatever the case, between my last visit in 2003 and now, the makers of the legend of this Ari Pir have become

acquainted with bin Haroon. What they do not know is that the man gave up his ghost in Lasbela, never getting this far on a trail that did not head for Debal, the Arab army’s first objective.

What is interesting is the way the story of this saint altered over the past three decades of my three visits.

What hasn’t changed is the status of the shrine. In 1987, innkeeper Ahmed was very confident that within years Ari Pir was going to be as great a festival as the nearby shrine of Bilawal Noorani. But that has not come to pass: Ari Pir remains a modest cousin to that shrine. One wonders what the story will finally be if I am able to return to Ari Pir in, say, thirty years from now.

Whatever the yarn may be, one change that is inevitable is that the beautiful, virgin topography around Ari Pir will have been ravaged. For a couple of years past, contractors have set up extraction of limestone from these hills. Though at a small scale for the time being, it is only bound to grow. In a few years, these lovely panoramas will be ravaged with wounds inflicted by man’s insatiable greed for lucre and his disregard for the natural world.

One wonders what the story will finally be if I am able to return to Ari Pir in, say, thirty years from now.

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LET'S DISH

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Getting

y s o C

Cannoli at

By Laaleen Khan

Meet cafĂŠ entrepreneurs Uzma Chaudhry and Dia Haider

Photography: Zainab Zaman Khan Afridi Hair & Makeup: Toni & Guy Islamabad

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annoli is a recent and very welcome addition to Islamabad’s evolving cafe culture. Whether rendezvousing with friends or comfortably solo, one can be assured of appetizing treats and comfort food at this snug eatery, located minutes away from the Aiwan-e-Sadr and corporate hubs.

Entering the premises, one’s gaze is directed towards a welcoming counter filled with delicacies such as quiche, tarts and macaroons labeled with quaint placards amid the enticing aroma of freshly brewed coffee. The intimacy of the ambience is heightened by a whimsical blue velvet sofa beneath a shelf filled with well-worn books against a warm brick wall. Eclectic music fills the air amid chatter from tables and stools.

Cannoli’s name comes from the Sicilian dessert, filled here with the choice of custard or Nutella and whipped cream. “Cannoli is one dessert which we both love and that no one else seems to do in Pakistan,” reveals Dia about their signature offering.

The duo is passionate about dessert but does not always see eye to eye on healthier offerings; Uzma is keen to introduce quinoa to their menu, a prospect that fills Dia with comical disgust. “I feed people what I like eating myself,” she explains. However, Uzma is getting her way and quinoa and other guilt-free options are to be included in the menu starting late spring.

It is evident that Uzma and Dia share a playful, yet very professional relationship. Before launching Cannoli, they partnered at Soul at Lush (the restaurant component of a local boutique hotel) and have been working together for five years. The two first met through Dia’s elder sister, also a close friend of Uzma’s. “When Uzma moved to Islamabad, she insisted that I meet her,” shares Dia. “They say you shouldn't work with friends but we became friends after we started working together!”

Adds Uzma, “When I moved, her family told me that Dia's been baking since she was a kid and how great she was. I begged her to join me (in a business venture) and eventually she did!

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LET'S DISH Their recipe for success?

Uzma is the ying to Dia’s yang.

“The best part is that we each have our own compartments at Soul,” declares Uzma. “The fact that our personalities and specialties are so different only enhances our partnership. We are exact opposites and have very different roles here. Dia is not much of a people’s person and I'm not much of a cook but I love to help out and garnish for her. We do discuss menus together but I'm more involved with the hospitality part and interiors.”

hat’s your opinion of the café culture in Islamabad?

UZMA: I think the café culture is still very new but people are getting into it and want more in Islamabad. That's why we wanted to tap into this market. I really wanted to bring to Pakistan the Geneva experience that I miss.

Are there any regional or international chefs or kitchens that inspire you?

DIA: I love Gordon Ramsay and Nigella Lawson. But no one can cook better than my mother!

“Uzma is our PR person,” reveals Dia. “I’m more reserved. Strangers walk in and leave as Uzma’s best friends.”

Please share a kitchen tip—whether at home or a restaurant.

UZMA: Keep it simple!

Dia was born and raised in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia, later attending the Islamabad College for Girls. She is what one would call an instinctive foodie. She hasn’t received professional training but has years of love and preparation behind her. “I don't like calling myself a chef because I haven't received professional training,” she explains. “But I love eating and feeding people. I’d always wanted to open a restaurant but never got around to it until I met Uzma.”

What do you normally snack on at Cannoli yourself?

DIA: I'm always trying to diet, but I love desserts so everyday I have something different.

Uzma is naturally sunny, and her strength lies in management. She grew up in Geneva, moving to Pakistan as a teenager before graduating from high school in Bangkok. She returned to Switzerland for university, studying hotel management at Les Roches International School of Hotel Management in Crans-Montana. This led to a waitressing internship in Zurich where Swiss café culture left a significant impact. She managed Avari Hotel Lahore’s club lounge before launching the first Café Soul on the premises of Shapes Gym in Lahore in 2002. “That’s when my dream started,” she says.

As Dia puts it, Cannoli’s menu consists of items that she and her family grew up eating and continue to enjoy, including an assortment of café snacks, dessert, salads, pasta and hamburgers along with various egg concoctions in their current breakfast menu. “We’ve always felt like an extension of Soul but are trying to keep the essence and constantly trying to reinvent ourselves,” she says.

The café has recently been expanded to include a new adjoining room and a delivery service in now on the cards. The duo also plans to rent out Banafsha Cottage in Bhurban as “a deluxe getaway stocked with Cannoli goodies.”

DESTINATIONS caught up with the café entrepreneurs to learn more about their vision, experiences and tips.

Describe a memorable home-cooked meal that you prepared.

UZMA: I cooked a Thai dinner for my husband’s birthday once. It wasn’t very good, hence was very memorable! The year after, Dia promised to cook for me!

DIA: My father loved to eat, and I used to cook for him a lot when he was living with me. He didn't like the food that our cook (at home) prepared. He was always happy when he was fed good food. So I guess every meal I ever made for him was memorable...

How and where do you source your ingredients?

What’s your methodology?

UZMA: We try and keep it seasonal so it's fresh but some ingredients have to be imported.

DIA: We have vendors that provide us with all our ingredients. It’s amazing how we can get almost everything in Pakistan now.

What’s the one thing that’s a must for a good chef?

DIA: To cook from the heart. There's no other secret.

Name an essential ingredient that must be always be in your kitchen.

UZMA: My weakness is for fresh whipped cream!

DIA: I don't like baking without the best vanilla extract. I try my best never to have to use the essence.

I believe it completely changes the taste of the dessert.

What would you advise that is impressive and can be cooked in a hurry?

UZMA: Seasonal salads. They are fresh and you can be as creative as you want, healthy or not.

DIA: Pastas, they're quick to do and look very impressive!

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I cooked a Thai dinner for my husband’s birthday once. It wasn’t very good, hence was very memorable! The year after, Dia promised to cook for me!

“If you

love what

you do and cook from the

HEART

you won't go wrong.

”

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LET'S DISH What’s the best kind of training a chef can undergo?

UZMA: Looking at Dia at work, I truly believe it's a natural instinct. After that, experience and training just polishes you.

DIA: Since I haven't gone through any training I can't really say, but like I said before, if you love what you do and cook from the heart you won't go wrong.

How does one master the restaurant business?

UZMA: We will let you know when we have mastered it!

DIA: We're still learning. I can't give advice on how to master the restaurant business because I haven't mastered it myself.

If you weren’t in the Food & Beverages business, what would you be doing?

UZMA: I really cannot imagine being in anything other than the hospitality industry but I do dabble in interiors as I think it's an extension of my work.

DIA: I’d always wanted to own a cafe, God has been kind and I do what I’d always wanted to do. If I hadn't started the café, I would probably be teaching, that's what I was doing before this.

Their

recipe for

Any favourite cookbooks or cooking shows?

UZMA: I love Nigella Lawson's books and shows and I love to watch Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares. It keeps me on my toes!

Success?

Have you received any interesting feedback from customers?

UZMA: We've realised that everyone's a ‘MasterChef’ now (in terms of critiquing)!

But seriously, our clients’ input always counts. I think that's what makes us different from the rest. Cannoli is like a decadent extension of one’s own kitchen. It's a home away from home with soul food. We want our clients to be happy!

Uzma is the ying to Dia’s yang.

DIA: I have realised that you can't please everyone!

One customer can hate the same dish another loves.

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DIA: Hell's Kitchen. I have lots of cool books but I hardly ever use any recipe. So I can't say I have a favourite. But I do like buying them.

What’s the biggest mistake that Islamabad cafes and/or Pakistani restaurants make?

DIA: We all make mistakes. Since we've opened up our own café, I've become so much more understanding (eating out) when my food is late or when they get the order wrong. I guess I have much more empathy now!

my SQUARE

MILE Uzma and Dia take us around some of their favourite spots in Islamabad’s F-6 area.

1

2 Mr. Food

We really don't eat out a lot, but we love our chaats and almost every lunch time end up at Mr. Food in F-6 Super Market.

F-6 Super Market

This leafy market square is ideal for a stroll when you feel like getting some fresh air.

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Maharaja Handicraft

A treasure trove of gorgeous handcrafted and woven shawls, perfect to give away as presents.

3 Shams

4

Our go-to store for imported goodies of all kind – from candies to cosmetics.

5 Pak-Turk Enterprises

The shop is home to restored furniture from across Pakistan, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan. Ideal for picking out that statement piece to add to your home.

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STYLE RULES

from the suitcase of

By Mariam Mushtaq

The designer on packing right & travelling in style...

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Styling: Haiya Bokhari Photography: Imran Fareed

STYLE RULES

Ali's

Travel Essentials Accessories such as rings, earrings and bracelets.

Layers, including scarves and jackets, that can be added or subtracted as needed.

My sketch pad because I draw a lot. Whenever I see something interesting – whether a face or a building – I start scribbling.

Voyage d'Hermes Parfum

Mouth freshener – because you never know when a meeting with a stranger might go really, and I mean really, well!

A book – I started “The Spinner’s Tale” by Omar Shahid Hamid on my last trip abroad.

Lip balm and a good cologne.

A neck pillow for when I need some shut-eye on the plane.

Travel Tip

I use the blanket provided by the airline as an extra layer and drape it in a fashionable way around myself so that it looks eye-catching instead of functional. Never sacrifice style for comfort.

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"My friends make fun of me because they think I read to look "cool and hip" like our models often pretend to. I've actually started hiding my reading now!"

Ali Xeeshan, the flamboyant fashion designer from Lahore, hardly needs an introduction. If you haven’t seen his ornate creations parading down the runway during shows that are as theatrical as they are entertaining, you must have seen the man himself decked up in his signature fur, round glasses and forehead piercing. That’s the designer in a nutshell – outlandish, cheeky and certainly not afraid to make a statement.

Travel is an essential part of Ali’s everyday life, as he jets around the globe to take on international runways and meet new clients. DESTINATIONS managed to catch up with the designer right before he left on a trip to get the low-down on everything from suitcase style staples to holiday escapades.

Are you a light packer?

Not at all. I live up to my reputation for being extravagant even when I’m travelling. My trips usually incorporate multiple destinations so I need to pack a lot. Plus, I travel with a big group of friends and we have our schedules down pat with lunches, afternoon teas and dinner plans every day. That means at least three looks in one day.

Name one item you can’t leave home without?

My round, dark-rimmed glasses. They are an Ali Xeeshan signature and sure-fire conversation starters even in the most awkward situations.

What do you like to buy on your trips?

I have a collection of Buddha figures from around the world so that’s one of the first things I go out in search for when I’m in a new city. I also keep an eye out for parallel brands and local designers.

Everyone knows LV or Prada; I prefer to shop at places that are not so commercial. The idea is to keep people guessing!

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STYLE RULES What’s your signature holiday look?

I don’t like to plan my outfits but one thing is for sure – I have to make a statement when I dress up. I remember when I was in Manhattan for the first time a few years ago. I was so intimidated by the tall buildings and the sheer number of people on the street. I felt lost; like a complete nobody. I went back up to my room, threw on a fur jacket and my round glasses and suddenly people were stopping to look at me. That’s me… a head-turner!

What’s the most important style lesson you’ve learnt while travelling?

Never go clubbing wearing your best shoes! I don’t know if it’s true for other people, but I generally end up ruining my shoes by the end of a night of partying.

Name one destination you’d like to return to.

It’s not a destination as such, but I recently visited Camden Town in London and I loved it. It’s so exotic given its mix of people from various nationalities and its fun, party vibe. Plus it’s so cheap. I had a blast picking out quirky tees and interesting knick-knacks from there.

Are you big on luxury when it comes to travel?

I don’t make a fuss. If I’m on a long-haul flight, going to the US for example, then yes, I’ll fly business class. But that’s more out of the necessity of being comfortable than proving a point or behaving like a diva. Honestly, I can stay in a youth hostel and use the money saved to buy more clothes or go to the best clubs. I like to party so I won’t compromise on the clubs that I frequent.

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Have you ever had to deal with lost luggage?

I’ve never lost my luggage but I once lost myself in Italy! It’s a funny story – I was doing a solo Europe trip and had a one-day stopover in Rome on my way to Milan. My hotel was on the 16th floor of a building and by the time I dragged my luggage up, I was drained. I just threw my bags on the bed and headed out for some sightseeing; and in my hurry forgot to jot down the name and address of the hotel. After roaming around haplessly for about five hours, the police came to my rescue. Luckily, I had my passport on me and they tracked down the hotel using that. It was very filmi and dramatic, riding in the back of a police car with stone-face Italian police officers!

Any memorable celebrity encounters while on holiday?

I once saw Michael Jackson at Buddha Bar in New York City. He was surrounded by security and I only caught a glimpse of him but this was right before he died so the memory is special. Also, I have a friend who works as an art director for Vogue and he took me on whirlwind tour of the magazine’s offices in NYC. I saw Anna Wintour’s office but she herself was in London then. Even so, it was surreal and overwhelming to be in her space!

Adventurous explorer or comfort seeker – which one are you?

Definitely the former. I like to experience new things on my travels. I especially love meeting the locals wherever I go. You’ll see me striking up random conversations with shopkeepers, hotel guests, or even strangers walking down the road. I think because people find my appearance interesting, they want to start a conversation with me.

What’s the first thing they ask you?

“Are you a mafia don?”

Holiday romances – a fun diversion or unnecessary heartbreak?

I’m the kind of traveller who falls in love with everything and everyone around me. I love to flirt and I’ve had countless holiday romances. Luckily, they’ve always left me with fond memories.

I think because people find my appearance interesting, they want to start a conversation with me.

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5

GET THE LOOK

OF THE

b e s t sunglasses 2016 Mirrored lenses Mirrored lenses are having a moment right now, with fashion designers on international runways favouring them as the styling accessory of choice. These Kite sunglasses with a bluemirrored lens are quirky and cool.

Vintage styles

o matter what your destination, the right pair of sunglasses can make or break your holiday look. Shades are not only a style statement; they are practically a necessity and choosing the right one to suit your face can be a tricky task. Here, we’ve put together a guide to some of the best styles, so take your pick and flaunt this season’s must-have accessory.

Wood frames Ditch the plastic in favour of classy wooden frames, which are all the rage these days. Not only do they look sophisticated, they are also non-toxic and environment-friendly. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture does a great contrast of blue lenses and wood frames.

Aviators Since Tom Cruise in Top Gun cemented their position as the coolest eyewear of all times, aviators have been sported by models and celebs alike.

We love this rose gold pair

by Tom Ford.

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Vintage never goes out of fashion and these retro inspired Armani shades are the very definition of classic cool.

D-frames

This contemporary style is fast gaining favour amongst those looking to stand out in the crowd. Gucci combines a black acetate upper with slim gold-tone metal for a futuristic and fun look.

MY SPACE

the

secret Lahore is famous for its kaleidoscope of sights and sounds, yet many wonders lie undiscovered within this sprawling metropolis. The Saggian Flower Market near the Ravi is one such hidden gem – the largest wholesale market of blooms in the country and a riot of colour.

Designer Sara Shahid of Sublime became a tourist in her own city for one morning as she set about uncovering the floral delights within the huge compound, decorated with row upon row of roses, gladioli and marigold.

Sara’s ready smile and sunny disposition became the perfect complement to the energy and vibrancy of the flowers on display and as she strolled around the market, we couldn’t help but fall in love with our city all over again.

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Personality: Styling: Hair & Makeup: Photography:

Sara Shahid Haiya Bokhari Natasha Saigol Ubaid-ur-Rehman

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MY SPACE

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GET THE LOOK

A Practically

PerfectPout Holiday C

for your

elebrity make-up artist Natasha Saigol has compiled a list of must-have lip colours to take on your holiday. Using her experience of over 15 years across the fashion, entertainment and beauty industries in Pakistan, which has including serving as stylist for the Lux Style Awards and working with the country’s top designers to develop bespoke make-up looks for campaigns, Natasha has put together the definitive guide to getting that gorgeous holiday pout.

MAC IN PINK NOUVEAU Not only is this pink very flattering for our skin tones, it’s also a shade that can easily take one from day to night. That makes it the perfect addition to your travel bag. A good local alternative is Haute Pink by Luscious.

L'Oréal Paris Colour Riche in Velvet Robe This deep red is perfect for a glamorous night out. Pair it with just a swish of eyeliner and you’ll be a showstopper.

Estee Lauder Pure Colour Envy in Stronger Go for this fun purple when you’re in the mood to be a little adventurous. It’s sure to add oomph to your vacation wardrobe.

Those on a budget should opt for Medora’s Violet Matt 212.

Clinique Chubby Stick in Oversized Orange Part lipstick, part moisturizing balm, this is the perfect solution to banish dry and chapped lips while perking your face up with a hint of colour. It’s great to use when you’re travelling.

Chanel in Scarlet This is your ultimate, go-to red that you just can’t go wrong with. It gives you the perfect bright red, kissable pout.

Dior Addict in Bobo Finding the right nude lipstick can be tricky but here’s a colour that is universally flattering. This pretty, shimmery nude is the ideal daywear choice and will enhance your holiday glow.

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OBJECT OF DESIRE

with

ATTIYA NOON Interior designer and creative director at Home

By Zahra Hidayatullah Couture, a furniture and home decor studio, Attiya Noon is in conversation with DESTINATIONS regarding her favourite objects in her home, acquired under the Tuscan sun.

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When and why did you decide to take up interior design as a profession? s a student of art history, I was always interested in interiors. However, I started formalizing my profession as an interior designer back in 2005 while I was still living in London. I started out as an apprentice at an interior design firm and later got confirmed as a designer there.

When we moved back to Lahore in 2011, I felt there was a gap in the market for the young, eclectic interiors aesthetic. That is how I started Home Couture, an interior design studio out of which I design furniture collections, homes, and other interior spaces.

What has inspired your style?

My style has mainly been inspired by my academic background in art and European history. To study these forms, I attended school in Germany as I felt a strong impulsion to not only read through books but to be in the atmosphere that influences me most.

Art in all its manifestations interests me a great deal.

Hence, I find inspiration through not just one but various sources – the gothic architecture of cathedrals, the geometrical symmetry in Islamic architectural patterns; domes, arches, spires, minarets, I find them all riveting and try to incorporate these aesthetics when I design furniture or spaces.

Other influences range from moods, places and personalities to nature, spirituality and weather – all these at individual levels have a deep design impact on me.

Photography: Ali Agha Hair & Makeup: Khurram @ Arammish Wardrobe: HSY, Elan & Mahgul

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Has your style evolved over time?

It most definitely has and continues to evolve all the time! However, there is no chronological sequence to it as it evolves from project to project, one design aesthetic to the next, my mood, the client’s mood, the place, the atmosphere, colours. As an artist and a designer, it is absolutely essential for one to keep growing, keep changing, keep evolving.

What is your favourite object in your home?

My favourite objects in my home are these huge hand The artisan who was selling them to us also became very involved and enthusiastic. Detailing the imagery painted urns, plates and bowls. painted over them, he invited us into his home for a cup of coffee and gave us a tour of his place; showing When and where did you acquire them from? us his work studio and sharing with us things that inspired him.

Well, I got these way back in 2008 during a trip to Tuscany.

How have you managed to incorporate these plates and urns in your living space?

In 2012, we got this home with a little courtyard that houses the pieces now. See how fabulous they look here!

Given the scale of these objects and the logistics of shipping them back home, it must have been quite a monumental decision to purchase them. Tell us how and where it happened.

During one of our trips along the Siena countryside, we parked our vans outside San Gimignano, a famous walled medieval hill town with winding, cobbled streets and high houses that lead into a central town courtyard. As my mother-in-law and I walked along these quaint narrow streets on our way to lunch with the rest of the party, we spotted little boutique stores selling these amazing hand painted pieces of pottery.

We both paused to look and we loved what we saw.

So taken in we were with their craftsmanship that we instantly started choosing our pieces. As spontaneous shoppers we did not even stop to consider the logistics that would come into play once we were to ship them back home hundreds of miles away.

"Today I feel that by getting these pieces of pottery, that experience, this little piece of that memorable holiday, that city, that day came home with us."

Hand painted objects are such a thing of beauty involving great personal skill. These pieces are stunning! What have they come to signify to you?

Interesting thing is, at that time I bought these, we were living in a tiny flat in London and I had no clue what I was going to do with them. We barely had space to put them up.

But so charmed I was I knew I had to buy them then and there even if it meant shipping them off to Pakistan for the time, because who knew when I would be back in San Gimignano again.

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OBJECT OF DESIRE Tuscany sounds fascinating. Tell us more about this trip.

We had gone to Italy that summer for my husband’s grandmother’s 80th birthday. Together there were 30 of us and the family had rented out a gorgeous villa along the rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside. Every day, we would pile up in buses and make little trips around the scenic landscape.

Needless to say, we had a great time and a most relaxing holiday! The atmosphere of Tuscany is very laid back.

There is not much to do except eat good food, look at these beautiful places and just soak it all in. We went at the start of the Italian summer, during May, when the weather was not too hot, not too cold - but perfect! The sun would always be shining. We spent half our days driving around the gorgeous countryside and the rest of them just lying by our pool in the villa, enjoying the lovely weather and being together with the family.

Seems like the perfect holiday!

How do you look back on this time?

NSs O I T A IN m e natdor ST DEc mn private fl r efor yoo ur ow , check out illa com

v ly.

Looking back at our great Tuscan escape, I remember this time with much luxury dowsonita in fondness. Italy and its people are most endearing. In fact, the one thing that www.w struck me instantly when we were there was how similar Italians were to Pakistanis. Not only were they easygoing and casual like us, they were also quite whimsical on the road: weaving their way in and out of narrow streets, honking, not caring about traffic lights nor traffic laws and this kind of made the holiday more fun because instantly we felt right at home – this big happy Pakistani family in the Italian countryside and it felt exactly like home.

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Essential Info: The best times to visit are early spring and late fall; July roasts and the city heaves and by August, most of the city shuts.

Taxis cannot be hailed on the street, but must be either booked or taken from selected taxi ranks.

(Locals rarely tip drivers.)

Restaurants and services tend to be closed on Sunday and almost all museums are closed on Monday.

Coffee etiquette: Caffe/espresso is a single shot, doppio is a double shot, Americano is a long black.

Overview Exquisitely walkable, Florence is divided nicely down the middle by the Arno River, the north side of which is home to most of the main monuments and museums: the Ufizzi Gallery, tourist-swamped Ponte Vecchio and Centro Storico at the dead center; Santa Maria Novella and fashion label-land Via Tornabuoni to the west, the Duomo and San Marco to the north and the Basilica of Santa Croce due East.

The south side of the Arno, Oltrarno, is packed with artisan shops and atmosphere.

Florence Guide Florence, the capital of Tuscany, remains a popular hot spot for tourists across the globe, including many from Pakistan.

DESTINATIONS presents an in-depth guide to the city that is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance.

Artisans and most small shops close from 1-3:30pm, all day Sunday and Monday mornings too.

treets Stilettos + cobbled s = broken ankles.

Italian Phrases to Know: Ciao: Hello Buon giorno/Buona sera: Good morning/evening Buona notte: Good night/Goodbye Per favore: Please Grazie: Thank you Prego: You’re welcome

Stay At: JK Place Comfort, sophistication and value. Just twenty snazzy rooms, and no two alike – JK puts the ooh in boutique. Add discreet service, a great concierge and Sunday brunch.

Four Seasons Hotel This is your ultimate luxury retreat, set in a restored 15th century palazzo and a convent amid 11 blissful acres of private

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park, complete with luxurious spa and pool, Il Palagio fine dinery and a peachy weekend brunch.

Casa Howard This 3-star B&B sports 12 uniquely designed rooms featuring a creative mix of sumptuous, comfy, modern and antique. Try for the owner’s duplex.

Private Villas Prefer your own private flat or luxury villa? No problems, www.windowsonitaly.com has some scorchers.

Eat At: Enoteca Pinchiorri Serious occasion dining calls for 3 Michelin stars, abundant crystal, pale pink linen and a tasting menu that starts at 225 euros. Dig deep.

Shop At: Cellerini Elegant Hermes-style bags without the price tag, plus a slew of leather goods that can be custom-made.

The Mall The outlet for Gucci, Pucci, Valentino et al.

Simone Abbarchi Made to measure shirts using Italian silks, Irish linens and Egyptian cottons. From 100 euros.

Castorina An Aladdin’s cave of carved, gilded and painted frames, fixtures, vases, globes, obelisks and objects.

Carlo Cecchi Di Giuliano Ricchi Silversmith to Dior et al.

See The Uffizi This museum, featuring unique artworks and masterpieces, the majority from the Renaissance period, is completely unmissable and well worth the long queues.

Harry’s Bar Florence’s movers and shakers throng this institution that serves up a famed chicken curry.

Cammillio Beloved for over 50 years by visitors and locals alike, this family trattoria serves up big flavours. Book well in advance.

San Lorenzo One of the oldest churches in Italy and the burial place for the famed Medici family.

Santa Croce The burial place for the great and good in Florence – Michelangelo, Rossini, Machiavelli and Galileo Galilei.

Ino Artisanal cheeses and meats make this deli-style shop a must for paninis and for when the picnic fairy strikes.

Palazzo Strozzi A palace that is an ode to Renaissance beauty, with traditional and contemporary exhibitions, a tranquil courtyard and café.

Ocafe Gorgeous views and great pastries make this svelte café a great breakfast and dessert spot.

Ferragamo Shoe Museum Just about every legendary star in the Hollywood firmament had Salvatore at their feet.

Purchasing rip-off handbags from the masses of street hawkers can land you with a 1,000 Euro fine.

Florence for Kids Ride an antique carousel Give your little ones a break from the sight-seeing and let them enjoy a ride on the antique carousal at Piazza della Repubblica.

Shop for Pinocchio souvenirs Visit Bartolucci, the wooden toy workshop and store where you can find coveted Pinocchio souvenirs made for generations by the Bartolucci family.

Go museum hopping Kids will enjoy the Museo dei Ragazzi (the Children’s Museum in Palazzo Vecchio) with its demonstrations that bring the ancient city to life; The Galileo Museum with its collection of tools designed and made by Galileo Galilei; the Stibbert Museum of European, Japanese, and Islamic armour which is located in a park; and the Museum of Natural History at La Specola.

Eat ice cream in the park Eat ice cream in the park Florence is considered to be the birthplace of gelato and you’ll be spoilt for choice given the dozens of gelaterias that dot the city.

Choose your favourite and enjoy an afternoon in the Boboli Gardens at Palazzo Pitti.

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THE FASHION FIX

Leena Khaliq Afridi’s

International TRENDSETTER t s mauves h

Dubai

Leena: How would you describe your personal style?

NADA HAMEED GOKAL’s

S

tyle knows no boundaries, as proven by international fashionistas Leena Khaliq Afridi and Nada Hameed Gokal. The former is a Dallas-based blogger and the latter the proprietor of Dubai’s popular floral studio, Vintage Bloom. Connected across thousands of miles through a common love for all things beautiful and fashionable, the two recently sat down to discuss what’s trending across the globe. DESTINATIONS brings you excerpts from the conversation as Leena quizzes Nada on her style choices.

Nada: I would say ‘comfortable chic’. I enjoy easy elegance, especially for the day since I am working with flowers and props and meeting people from all walks of life. I love silk palazzos and symmetrical tops and I usually add a cocktail ring or tribal bracelets for dramatic effect.

Leena: How do you think fashion transcends into your floral arrangements?

Nada: One has to be always in tune with what’s trending on the fashion front; it’s an important way to keep floral design fresh and innovative. Colour palettes and textures all play a pivotal role when I am putting together ideas and choosing flowers for an event. As we know, lace is making a big come back for Spring 2016 and in floral artistry, this translates into more romantic design.

Leena: Can you share with us your five must-haves this season?

Nada: 1. This drop shoulder, bias cut shirt in powder blue by Rosie Assoulin is casual yet elegant – totally me!

2. Alexander McQueen's embroidered skull clutch bag.

3. My Nike sneakers that I simply live in. They pair off perfectly with my active wear.

4. Ankle accent stilettoes by Giovanni Rossi straight off the runway.

5. A floral scent.

Leena: Who is your current favorite designer and what is your most treasured item from their latest collection?

Nada: I would have to say Chloe’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection, which is very elegant yet sporty with a bohemian flair. It’s something I will be in most of this season.

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off the shoulder

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Leena Khaliq Afridi’s

STYLE & THE CITY of f there were a phrase to describe spring’s fashion flavour, it would be ‘nonchalant luxury’. Sheer chiffons and luxurious crepes are paired with versatile denim to channel a fun yet romantic vibe. The colour palette is an ode to spring with its range of unique pastels in rose quartz and taupe topaz as well as bold deep reds and burnt oranges.

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Designers across the United States and international waters have desperately fallen in love with the beauty of paradoxes. Softly structured flared trousers in the finest silks billowed down the runways paired with denim cut to sophisticated precision. Coyly bared shoulders, with fanned and layered sleeves, spoke of understated elegance.

This season, textures are fused and colour boundaries are broken, with designers like Gianvito Rossi and Salvatore Ferragamo introducing laser cut filigree leather in shades of macadamia, shea butter and brilliant azure blue. Christian Louboutin’s avant-garde lace-up styles in high-strung stilettoes are the footwear of choice for the style-conscious.

Evening hours call for luxe chamois and lace. Elie Saab’s intricate lace patterns, sharp tailoring and masterful draping speaks of a classic elegance mixed with a young and trendy vibe. Chloe continues to follow the moody appeal of basic black, but plays with flirty lengths and keeps the look a bit cheekier.

Is it just a spring fling? Or something more lasting? While we wait to find out, we can’t help but indulge in this wave of dynamic paradoxes that is faultlessly chic and a welcome addition to any wardrobe.

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1. Off-shoulder sheath dress by Milly 2. Laser-cut bucket bag by Burberry

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3. Rockstud denim butterfly mini tote by Valentino 4. Frayed ankle-tie sandals by Gianvito Rossi 5. Embellished halter neck column gown by Naeem Khan 6. Amazoulo caged suede sandals by Christian Louboutin 7. Red leather tote by Valentino 8. Lace-patterned cat-eye sunglasses

by Jimmy Choo 9. Sleeveless, flowy wide-legged jumpsuit by Ellie Saab

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING

HOW TO

eatsupermodel

like a

By Mariam Mushtaq

Mehreen Syed

THE GORGEOUS DISHES ON HER FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS ACROSS She’s known as the queen of the ramp and the face that’s launched hundreds of magazine covers but not many know supermodel Mehreen Syed for the avid foodie that she is. “I’m a food lover. I follow news from the culinary world religiously, read blogs and reviews and travel the world in search of the best dishes,” she reveals. ver the years, her search for culinary nirvana has taken her across the globe and Europe remains one of her favourite destinations.

“Food and taste are extremely personal,” says the model. “I’ve eaten at some of the top-rated places in London and found them lacking; while some unassuming restaurants have turned out to be true gems. My recommendations are based on my personal experiences.” Read on as Mehreen takes us on a delectable trek across Europe, highlighting some of her favourite eateries.

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EUROPE.

“ I'm a food lover.

I follow news from the culinary world religiously, read blogs and reviews and travel the world in search of the best dishes."

VERONA, ITALY

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

London

London is one of those cities that I keep returning to, not because it’s a great tourist destination, but because of my familiarity with the place and the sense of comfort I get when I’m there. It’s a home away from home for a lot of my Pakistani friends as well.

They prefer to frequent a handful of tried and tested eateries but given the incredible culinary choices the city has to offer, it’s a shame not to be a little adventuro us and try something new every so often.

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THE LEDBURY

CUT AT 45 PARK LANE

SCOTT’S

THE ALAN YAU FOURSOME

One needs to book months in advance for a table at what is often voted as the best restaurant in the UK, and the effort is so worth it. Head chef Brett Graham’s menu is innovative and features modern British cuisine that it is packed with flavours. It’s my absolute favourite London eatery and has been awarded 2 Michelin stars.

I love Cut not just for its divine steaks but also for the man behind their taste, Wolfgang Puck. He’s a celebrity within his own right in the culinary world but an extremely down-to-earth guy who is passionate about food. Insider’s tip: Try the Rough Cuts menu at the bar upstairs.

Scott’s on Mayfair is one of England’s oldest restaurants, originally set up in 1851. Its world-class seafood has attracted celebs, presidents and royalty over the years.

My personal favourite here are the escargots done with bone marrow.

All my favourite Chinese restaurants in London have one thing in common – they were set up by brilliant restaurateur Alan Yau. You can’t go wrong when you’re eating at one of his establishments, whether it’s the upscale Hakkasan, the contemporary Yauatcha with its divine dim sum, pub-style Duck & Rice or the classy Park Chinois with its gorgeous interior, live music and old-school vibe.

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BARRAFINA

BAR BOULUD

NOBU, ZUMA AND ROKA

MANDARIN KITCHEN

This Spanish tapas bar has the most amazing seafood. The only catch is, it doesn’t take reservations so be prepared to wait in line. I often end up there at 11am in order to grab a table by lunchtime. Trust me, it’s worth it!

For a great upmarket French brasserie in London, you can’t do much better than Bar Boulud, renowned chef Daniel Boulud’s chic bistro-style outpost.

Pakistanis love their Japanese and while most visitors to London end up at either Nobu or Zuma, let me introduce you to another wonderful place called Roka. This modern Japanese restaurant might be the lesser-known cousin to the other two but its sushi and robata grilled meats are to die for. With three locations, you should be able to find one near you.

Try this restaurant when you’re in the mood for low-key atmosphere and authentic Chinese flavours. It’s quite reasonably priced.

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LE COSTES

L’ AMI LOUIS

FRENCHIE

LE’ DOME

Costes is what you would expect from a French eatery – elegant and beautiful. Given its fashionable crowd and gorgeous terrace, it’s the perfect place to people watch as you wait for the delectable dishes to arrive. Make sure you book ahead, because it gets busy.

Established in 1924, what was once Paris’s best kept secret is now a mecca for visitors to the French capital in search of authentic local cuisine.

Don’t be fooled by its unpretentious appearance – the food here has the crème da le crème hooked. If you want to try foie gras for the first time, I suggest you do it here.

This laidback bistro is surprisingly reasonable given the high-quality food it serves. But good luck getting a reservation here! It’s notorious for its long wait list – I had to wait for 3 months. If you get a table, savour it!

The restaurant has an interesting history, as it was a place favoured by artists and writers in the early 1900s. It retains that charm and serves the best fish in the city.

Do try the French classic, sole meunière.

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GOUST

LILI AT THE PENINSULA

My absolute favourite restaurant in Paris is Goust. It’s a fine-dining establishment that is a perfect mix of old-world charm and contemporary design.

The food will have you coming back again and again.

If you’re in the mood for something Oriental, head to The Peninsula, a luxury hotel in Paris. LiLi serves mouth-watering Cantonese featuring dishes that look delightful and taste even better.

Paris

Paris is one of my favourite cities in the world. I love it for its citizens’ inherent and effortless sense of style, its rich culture, its romantic roadside cafes and of course, for its fabulous food. I love classic French cuisine and there are so many fabulous culinary finds that I’ve discovered here over the years.

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Italy

Italy and its vario us cities are the stuff dreams are made of. From its gorgeous ancient architecture to the stunning natural scenery, the hospitality of its vivacio us people to its world-famous cuisine, there are so many reasons that take me all over this wonderful country and make me want to return at least once a year.

AURORA

LA CONCA DEL SOGNO

Capri is one of the most gorgeous places on earth and I have fond memories of my trip there, chief among them the food at Aurora. As the oldest restaurant on the island, now being run by the third generation, it has a reputation to maintain and its impeccable food and mouth-watering desserts do not disappoint.

With its picturesque setting on the gorgeous Amalfi Coast, it’s hard to find a place that can rival this restaurant’s views. I met Pierce Brosnan while dining here but even he couldn’t distract me from the amazing seafood menu on display! This has to be my favourite restaurant in Italy.

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RESTAURANT AT HOTEL VICTORIA Verona is such a romantic city, given its “Romeo and Juliet” reference and its ancient Roman history.

Hotel Victoria is a modern little oasis amongst the historical charms of Verona and the restaurant inside serves some of the best Italian dishes I’ve ever eaten.

LE CALANDRE Ranked amongst “The 50 Best Restaurants in the World,” Le Calandre is off the beaten track, located in the province of Padua, about 30 minutes from Venice. It’s a food-lover’s dream come true. Chef Alajmo was the world’s youngest chef when, at 28, he was awarded 3 Michelin stars for his eatery and his exquisite food explains why.

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING F12 This fantastic restaurant is popular with the local jet-setting crowd as well as those with a discerning taste in food.

Stockholm

The Swedish capital might not be on the list of everyone’s ‘Places to Visit’ but I can attest to the sheer beauty of the city as well as that of its people, who are amongst the most good-looking I have ever seen.The city itself is dotted with small neighbourhoods, each with a distinct character, great museums and unique architecture.

MATHIAS DAHLGREN Located within the Grand Hotel, this 2-Michelin star restaurant is rated amongst the best in Sweden. It has two sections, a more formal Dining Room and a bistro-style Food Bar. The menu presents a modern take on European cuisine and the flavours are just beautiful.

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This Spanish city makes for the perfect European getaway. There is something to suit all tastes here, whether it’s history, a thriving nightlife, a great contemporary art and fashion scene and of course, the incredible restaurants, ranging from small tapas bars and beachside eateries to fancy fine-dining establishments.

Barcelona

TAPAS 24

CDLC

CERVESERIA CATALANA

A visit to Barcelona isn’t complete unless you savour some mouth-watering appetizers (tapas) in a quintessential Spanish tapas bar. Tapas 24 is a great example of one. The menu is extensive and I’ve had the most divine squid here.

Stunning views of the Mediterranean, a relaxed yet trendy vibe and great music in the evenings make this lounge-style beach restaurant amongst the best in Barcelona.

The menu is an interesting mix of Spanish and Japanese favourites. This is where I tried sushi for the first time and I was hooked.

This restaurant/tapas bar is highly recommended by me. It has a stamp of approval from the locals as well as the tourists and you really can’t go wrong with its selection of tapas, seafood and salads.

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A WORLD OF GOOD

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By Zahra Hidayatullah

Meet the dreamers, doers and innovators who not only challenge the status quo but play a key role in remodelling and transforming the lifestyle, social condition and economic standing of communities, countries and sometimes even the world at large. These inspirational beings are identified by the projects they take on and the positive changes they help bring about.

In this issue, DESTINATIONS talks to two times Academy Award- and twice Emmy Award-winning filmmaker Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy, a woman who has helped put Pakistan in the global spotlight. Her latest documentary “A Girl in the River: The Price of Forgiveness” recently won Best Documentary – Short at the 88th Academy Awards. A film that has stimulated debate on amendment in legislation regarding the law of honour killing, her second Oscar-wining project is sure to be the harbinger of change for the fate of countless women in Pakistan.

A recipient of the Hilal-e-Imtiaz, Obaid-Chinoy is also the founder of the Citizens Archive of Pakistan, a non-profit organization dedicated to persevering the history and culture of Pakistan. Read on as the inspirational filmmaker talks about making certain journeys in life, aspects of work-related travel and discovering Pakistan.

This is your second Oscar win from a country that had known no previous acknowledgment from the Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences. How does it feel representing the homeland more than 7,500 miles away, on a platform as grand as the Oscars?

I am proud to have represented Pakistan on such a prestigious platform – that too for the second time! I am grateful that the SOC Films Production was able to share the untold story of “A Girl in the River: The Price of Forgiveness” with a global audience. Since the start of my career, I have always endeavoured to share the stories of those who cannot do so themselves. To be acknowledged for this work is always very humbling and on such a world stage like the Oscars – makes it surreal.

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A WORLD OF GOOD Like “Saving Face”, your first winning documentary, “A Girl in the River: The Price of Forgiveness” is also based on a theme focusing on women. You have not only chosen to highlight aspects of our society that demand immediate call for action but you are an active participant in campaigns designed to eradicate the issue. So apart from the physical travel aspect involved in projects such as this, you must be embarking on a spiritual journey each time. What gives you the strength to fight against the status quo and go where no woman has gone before?

During filming, there have been many times when I have felt overwhelmed and disheartened by the atrocities around me but I find hope in my subjects. I am inspired by the stories of the survivors and it instils in me a sense of purpose. I feel extremely honoured to be able to provide the silenced with a voice and make their stories heard by others throughout the world.

Given the nature of your work, you are often on the go and must find yourself oscillating between extremes – from working in gritty, grimy places to attending high-profile events in the glittering world of glamour and stardom. How do you pack to make sure you have got it all together?

It’s easier being behind the camera because no one, apart from my crew, can see what I’m wearing – I’m all about comfort and convenience when I go on shoots.

But when it comes to glamour, I plan ahead and pack accordingly!

Sp HARMEEN’s acking essen

Mosquito R tials epellent, Sunglasse s, Water Bott le, Hat a good rea d!

&

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Sneakers and jeans as opposed to dresses and heels.

Limos and jets as opposed to vans and cabs. What does travel mean to you?

Travel for me is all about exploration – exploring people, places and stories that enrich your knowledge and understanding of the world.

You have travelled far and wide. How would you describe Pakistan to the world, in light of your international perspective?

Pakistan has so much to offer: beautiful architecture and landscapes coupled with an enriched history and culture. In addition, our delicious food and the warmth of our people are amongst some of the things I have not experienced anywhere else in my travels.

What are some of the places in Pakistan you would recommend to those travelling here for the first time?

What is the one thing you would want to tell people who are travelling to Pakistan for the first time?

There’s something for everyone is Pakistan. From the beaches of the south, to the rolling sand dunes of Thar Desert, to the untouched peaks of the north, Pakistan is a traveller’s paradise!

I’d encourage people to leave their inhibitions behind and come with an open mind. In time, you will learn that Pakistan is so much more than what you see in the headlines.

You are Karachi-based; a city often regarded as a microcosm of Pakistan. Mostly written off as one of the most dangerous cities in the world, what is little known is the fact that it is also home to an electrifying range of cultural phenomenon – film, drama, music, theatre, international culinary delights have all seen a revival here. How would you describe your hometown?

5 songs that to Sharmeen, define the sound of Pakistan

I grew up in Karachi, the most diverse city in Pakistan with a population of 20 million people. Karachi’s diversity spans not only across culture and ethnicity, but also across mindset and talent. It hosts some of the greatest masters of Pakistani technology, sports, arts and literature and most importantly, a wide range of culinary delights.

1

Take 5

Sachal Studios

Disco Diwane

2

Nazia Hassan

3

Arif Lohar

4

Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan

5

Junoon

Jugni Ji

Mast Qalandar

Sayonee

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WANDERER

By Faizan Haqqee

NORTHISTAN

One fine summer, TV host, adventurer and eternal wanderer, Faizan Haqqee trekked all the way up to the K2-Gondogoro route, accompanied by his Parisian friend Caroline. Here, he outlines the details of how the journey began at Naltar.

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y friend Caroline was at the end of her two-year term working for a French bank in Pakistan and the two of us decided to write the final chapter of this stage of her life spent in a country she had grown to love, in its most ravishing corner.

It resonated with her immediately when I suggested that we make not only a road trip to the wild and accessible north, but venture out also to its wildest wilderness, the K2. This was a journey that, owing to its sheer remoteness and the dedication required to reach it, even I, in my nine years of trekking up north, had not experienced before.

It was final then: in addition to spending a breezy time camping and jeep safariing up north, with a few light treks in different conditions, leisurely trout fishing and punctuating our journey with the occasional stop at roadside food joints, breathing only mountain air and drinking stream water, we would acclimatize ourselves at Naltar to undertake what is considered the trek to end all treks – the K2-Gondogoro route.

I flew in from coastal Karachi to begin our journey northwards from the plains of Lahore. Caroline had already had her first taste of the high mountains ranges a few days prior through a yoga retreat in Chitral, which got her well warmed up with daily exercise, meditation and even a paraglide over the Hindu Kush. After a couple of balmy days in Lahore, she was ready.

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At dawn, Haji’s nihari in the old Lohari Gate area of Lahore was dimly abuzz. Here, over deep bowls of steaming nihari and baking-hot naan (baked bread), we could already hear the mountains calling, beckoning to us with a gentle whisper faintly audible against the hiss of high wind tearing past barely concealed fangs for peaks. The imagination was alive. The prospects were tantalizing. We would see minus 30 Celsius on this trip, at a time when the rest of the country, even areas only 300km away from the Central Karakoram, were seeing 40 degrees Celsius during the day. We drive to an altitude of almost 15,000 ft (and higher) in parts of Pakistan, India, Nepal and Tibet, at which level some of the greatest Himalayan trails begin. The Karakoram Highway (KKH) is one of man’s marvels in that respect. And a monument to Sino-Pak relations, as they stand today.

Our friends Nadir and Tara would join us from Karachi for the milder half and quarter of the 40-day excursion, respectively. We would take a bus to Islamabad, where after another good meal, at my favourite Afghani restaurant in the capital, and a bit of shut eye, we would attempt the usually packed and weather-dependent two morning flights a day to Gilgit. The city, along with Skardu, is one of the gateways to the ‘real’ northern Pakistan, dominated by the Karakoram range. The sharp spires of the Karakoram make even the greater Himalayan slopes eastward appear gentle. These are the most awe-inspiring of all mountains.

It’s a scarcely believable flight as one soars over Islamabad’s lush Margalla hills and into the white heart of the Karakoram, past Nanga Parbat – the country’s fifth 8,000m peak and only one belonging to the greater Himalaya. She’s the world’s largest monument, greater in magnitude than even Everest. In a few days we would meet the old girl again, at the base of her steepest slopes. This is visual flying at its best and occasionally the pilots will even allow a passenger to get a bird’s eye view of the landing which, already spectacular at Gilgit - as the plane darts into a tiny opening in the mountains for a strip to emerge – turns into one of the miracle landings in aviation at Skardu, as a Boeing 737 bravely circles the valley and flies excitingly close to bare mountain faces as it sheds altitude in order to be able to land.

This time though, we weren’t going to fly. Both the flights to Gilgit that morning were cancelled due to hostile weather and none of us were keen to take a chance the next day. Before long the four of us, after a brief call to a listed car rental company, with our luggage and quickly refunded ticket money in hand, were packed into a chauffeur-driven Land Cruiser that would drive us thirteen hours to Gilgit, for less money per head than our air tickets, in relative luxury-with USB stereo, reclining seats, air-conditioning and heating.

There is, reputedly, a hostile patch between Besham and Raikot along the KPK/Kohistan part of the way to Gilgit-Baltistan, which lasts about four hours. It is only relatively hostile if at all, with a crustier, more wild-west border town flavour next to the extremely cheerful and hospitable folk of Gilgit-Baltistan further northwards, whose warmth and gentility really puts the best of us to shame. It is a well-guarded bit of the Karakoram highway though, with frequent check posts, a seamless process of registration and even a system of moving vehicles along in secured convoy.

It is best to cross this patch during the day, which makes leaving Islamabad a necessity as soon the party’s hopes of flying fade. And they do fade on most summer days, as no confirmation is offered on flights to the Karakoram and the list of passengers – from previously cancelled flights, chancing it on yours – is long. Sadly, but understandably, the national carrier PIA is the only airline that flies this tricky aerial route straddling the world’s highest theatre of hostilities.

Past the rough patch, Nanga Parbat and the Raikot bridge, the Karakoram Highway really comes into its own as a sequence of broad bends dancing all the way to China, compelling the bedazzled traveller to push along on a tidal wave of confidence.

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WANDERER Weheaded headedtotoPTDC PTDCGilgit, Gilgit,our ourclassic classicabode abodeinintown town We withitsitsgarden-front garden-frontbedrooms bedroomsand andtheir theirwooden wooden with decks.I could I couldthink thinkofofnonoplace placebetter bettertotorest restour our decks. numbedbacksides. backsides.A Agood goodnight’s night’ssleep sleepled ledtotoa a numbed sun-soakedbreakfast breakfastofoffried friedeggs eggsand andparatha paratha witha a sun-soaked with hotjug jugofofHunza Hunzatea teathat thatmust musthave havebeen beencreated createdwith with hot sucha acrisp crisphigh-desert high-desertmorning morningininmind. mind.For Forme, me,there there such wasa areal realsense senseofofhomecoming homecomingasasthe thefamiliar familiarstaff staff was wavedand andsmiled. smiled.I was I wasback backwhere wherealmost almostallallmy my waved previousnorthern northerngrand grandadventures adventuresbegan. began.And Andthis this previous wasgoing goingtotobebethe thegrandest grandestofofthem themall. all.AsAsthe themost most was experiencedmountain-fiend mountain-fiendininthe thegroup, group,I assumed I assumed experienced mynatural naturalrole roleasascaptain captainofofthis thislittle littleexpedition, expedition, my takingupupthe thereins reinswith withananold-fashioned old-fashionedtalk talkonon taking dealingwith withdepression depressionand andminimizing minimizingpersonal personal dealing frictionininthe thehigh highreaches reachesunder undera aslight slightscarcity scarcityofof friction oxygen.We Weallalllaughed. laughed.It Itwas wastime timetotoget getmoving. moving. oxygen.

Mylocal localhero heroand andfriend friendRahmat Rahmatarrived. arrived.A Akey key My componentofofallallmy mynorthern northernadventures, adventures,Rahmat Rahmat component personifiestotoeveryone everyonewho whocomes comesacross acrosshim himthese these personifies threequalities: qualities:solidity, solidity,warmth warmthand andrefinement. refinement.Over Over three theyears yearshehehas hasbecome becometotome mea asymbol symbolofofeverything everything the I loveabout aboutthis thismythical mythicalland. land.And Andininmy myassociations, associations, I love inseparablefrom fromthe thenorth northasasthe thesight sightofof heheis isasasinseparable snowteetering teeteringalong alongthe thepeaks. peaks.He’s He’slike likethe theSnow Snow snow Leopard.Ibex.

Ibex.Rahmat Rahmatwould woulddrive driveususininhis hisCJ5 CJ5asashehe Leopard. alwayshas, has,totowhere wheremy mythoughts thoughtslike liketotoescape. escape.A A always formerjeep-safari jeep-safariguide, guide,heheruns runsa aprinting printingfacility facilityofof former hisown ownatatthe thelocal localuniversity universityand andstill stilltakes takestime timeout out his forgrand grandtouring touringevery everytime timeI visit.

I visit. for Ourfirst firststop stopwas wasthe theforested forestedhigh highvalley valleyofofNaltar, Naltar, Our twohours hoursaway awayfrom fromGilgit Gilgitand andjust justoff offthe theroad road two leadingtotoHunza.

Hunza.With Witha anumber numberofofspectacular spectacular leading waterfallsand anda apowerful powerfuldemonstration demonstrationofofthe the waterfalls violenceofofwhite whitewater waterasaswe wemade madeour ourway wayupupa a violence dreamlikepath pathwith witha aheavy heavyglacial glacialrivulet rivuletcascading cascading dreamlike rightalong, along,Naltar Naltaris isa aheavenly, heavenly,Alpine Alpinestretch stretchofofskiski right slopesbejewelled bejewelledbybythree threelakes lakesofofemerald emeraldgreen greenand and slopes readilyserves servesasasa agreat greatwelcome welcometotothe thenorthern northern readily areas.The Theexquisite exquisiteNaltar NaltarLake Lakeatat11,400ft 11,400fttakes takes areas. centrestage stageand andoffers offerssublime sublimespots spotsaplenty aplentyfor for centre pegginga atent tentororfew. few. pegging Ourcampsite campsitewas wasalong alonga asmall smallstream streamthat thatflows flows Our fromitsitsicy icysource sourceabove aboveininfull fullview, view,offering offeringa a from wonderfulmeans meanstotowash washpotatoes potatoesand andother otherfood food wonderful ingredients,bybytheir theirsecure secureplacement placementbetween betweenlarge large ingredients, immovablestones stonesinina asink sinkofofpebbles pebbleswith withample ample immovable aquaticpressure. pressure.It Itbecame becameour ourown ownmineral mineralwaterway. waterway. aquatic Dinnerwas wasa awonderfully wonderfullywell wellcooked cookedChicken ChickenKarahi Karahi Dinner Taraand andRahmat, Rahmat,ininbutter butterwhich whichwe wewisely wisely bybyTara purchasedover overcooking cookingoiloilalong alongwith withbasic basicutensils utensils purchased duringour ourstop stopininthe thebazaar bazaarofofGilgit Gilgit– –a agreat greatplace place during stockupupononsupplies, supplies,ofofanything anythingfrom frompetroleum petroleum totostock jellyand andtents-for-rent tents-for-renttotobakery bakeryitems, items,vegetables, vegetables, jelly ropeand anddry dryfruit, fruit,most mostimportant importantofofwhich whichtotocarry carryupup rope driedapricot, apricot,essential essentialfor fornaturally naturallyoptimizing optimizing is isdried blood-oxygenlevels levelsatataltitude, altitude,especially especiallyininmoments moments blood-oxygen lowblood bloodpressure. pressure.The Theapricots apricotsrelease releasea atorrent torrentofof ofoflow oxygentotothe thebrain, brain,awakening awakeningit.it.AtAtleast leastthat thatis ishow how oxygen thelocals localsdescribe describethe theeffect. effect. the 158

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Driving out of Naltar we all had a feeling I’d had before: this place deserves a trip on its own

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Naltar gets properly cold at night. It’s high, surrounded by snowy mountain peaks and bodies of half-frozen water close to campsite. The quality of one’s boots, sleeping bag, roll-up mattress and tent will make the biggest difference to one’s quality of life in the national parks, aside from a little humility, which the mountains inspire in spades. Waking up in Naltar was, as always a delight. A genuinely wholesome breakfast omelette of free range eggs was served lakeside by a local baba who operates a tiny rowboat and lives in one of the fairy-tale chalets that punctuate the Naltar hills aside from giant boulders, both of which I suspect would be very familiar to the bronze age tribes that lived in these valleys millennia ago. After breakfast, with a circuit of the lake and a crossing of the vigorous stream running right behind that feeds it, we perambulated up the adjoining hills and took wonderful pictures, whilst letting the high mountain air into our lungs, sharpening us up slightly.

Driving out of Naltar we all had a feeling I’d had before: this place deserves a trip on its own and half a day in no way does justice to even its fairy-tale folk, who appear like apparitions among the trees, emerging from the mist in shalwar kameez that must not be very different from the first. Most locals are Sheen or Yaskhun and resemble the stone-age mountain tribes of Afghanistan, as they appear in 19th century photographs today. With a sprinkling of Gujjars, miners of 160

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river gold, who also seem to exist in a bygone century on account of appearance and vocation, Naltar’s ethnic gene pool seems largely consistent. The population is about 5,000.

The moisture, descending from the high surrounding peaks and Naltar Pass fills up the valley a few times each day, in every season bar autumn. It’s a hauntingly beautiful oasis that, despite often being the first stop on my northern itineraries, is remembered as a high point long after the trip has ended. Its image of verdant mildness harrowingly punctuated by frightened trees bowing into a luminously clear green and blue lake resembles the landscape of a dream, and in some way the Zen gardens of Kyoto, which teases the forgone debate over whether life imitates art or vice versa.

But we had miles to go, so we packed in our gear, the tents already stowed by Rahmat, and crawled out of Naltar valley. The terrain driving northwards was more arid, displaying a multitude of browns, topped by generous layers of white.

The Aga Khani community, known for its exceptional ability to organize social services like education and healthcare, has made an indelible mark here, with a sprouting of schools, clinics, sustainable welfare projects and the maintenance of heritage sights, to name a few valuable contributions over decades past.

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LAHORE

MAN on the

SCENE RJ Khalid Malik

The PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2016 brought together the country's top designers to showcase their Spring/Summer collections.

Juggan Kazim

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Meesha Shafi and HS Y

TRAVEL ACROSS PAKISTAN

Safinaz Muneer & Sana Hashwani

Aroosa Rana

Mohsin Ali & Andleeb Rana

Kamiar Rokni, Tia Noon and Rehan Bashir

Nomi Ansari

arovski gica of Sw C Andrew Mo irperson PFD ha C l o ig Sa r hy Se and

Sara Shahid & Zahra Khan

Jahan-e-Khalid

Nooray Bhatti

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ya

Umair Tabani & Sania Maskati

Ali Xeeshan

Fia Khan and RJ Khalid Malik Fariha Altaf

Sunita Marshal

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Asma Chishty, Attiya Noon, Momina

Sibtain and Selina Rashid

ti

Mehmood Bhat

Saad Ali

hid

RJ Khalid Malik and Nilofar Sha

Depak Parwani Mariam Mushtaq, Ha iya Bokhari, Natasha Saigol & Me hek Saeed

Maheen Kardar

RJ Khalid Malik and Waleed Khalid

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LAHORE

Lahore Literary Festival

The 4th edition of the Lahore Literary Festival gave the city its annual dose of literature, culture, arts and politics. Featuring international delegates such as veteran actress Sharmila Tagore, writer/actress Madhur Jaffrey and journalist Mona Eltahawy as well as Pakistani luminaries including Mohammad Hanif, Mohsin Hamid, Sherry Rehman and Ahmed Rashid, the two-day event was a celebration of the arts in all forms.

Amina Ansari

A group of foreign delegates at the Badshahi Masjid Syed Babar Ali and Iqbal Z. Ahmed

Packed halls

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hsin Hamid

Kamal Munir and Mo

Madhur Jaffrey

Hameed Haroon

Rachel Holmes, Mona Eltahawy, Anita Anand and Dina Siddiqi

Sharmila Tagore

Qav'vali

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LONDON

DIL GALA 2016

DIL Trust UK’s annual gala, held at the Dorchester Hotel, brought together prominent individuals from the fields of arts, culture and business, including the High Commissioner of Pakistan HE Syed Ibne Abbas, to raise funds for DIL’s Orangi school. The star of the evening was Muhammad Ibrahim Khan, a survivor of the APS school shooting in Peshawar, who risked his life to save his friends that fateful day in December 2014.

Farzana and a frie

nd

Gina Hassan, Muhammad Ibrahim and his mother Sherbano

Nikki Hubbard, H.E. Syed and

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Mrs. Ibne Abbas and Ahm eree

n Reza

Saira, Aymen and Sadia

Sara Aslam

and a frien

d

Aniq and Iman

d

Jazz Ban

Cirque le Soir entertainer

Naiza Khan and Gina Hassan

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KARACHI

Kidney Center Brunch

Sun, style and smiles were the order of the day at the annual Kidney Centre Brunch held recently in Karachi. The city’s well-heeled came out in full force to support the charity gala, held for the Kidney Centre Institute.

Ayesha Farook Hashwani

Hasnain Lehri and Mohsin Ali

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Frieha Altaf, Iman Ali and Zain Baig

Nomi Ansari

Nooray Bhatti and Umar Sayeed

Sadaf Malaterre

Maheen Karim

Sarwat Gillani, Zara Tareen, Asim Jofa, Bilal Ashraf and Fahad Mirza Wasim Akram and Shaniera Akram

Our Style Stars

Maira Pagganwala

Fouzia Aman

Sadaf Muneer Jalil

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