DESTINATIONS - Issue 14 - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine

ISSUE #11

The Great Escape with Adnan Siddiqui & Bilal Ashraf

Yalghaar

A Cinematic Magnum Opus

Fifi’s Guide to LONDON Motorcycle Diaries How A Romanian Fell in Love with Pakistan

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contents.

ISSUE #11

The Great

Escape

On the cover

with Adnan Siddiqui & Bilal Ashraf

p.38

MAN ON THE SCENE

p. 62

30 38

Director’s Cut The Great Escape with Adnan Siddiqui & Bilal Ashraf

Save Room for

STYLE RULES 62 170 164

Save Room for Dessert Cool for the Summer For The Love of Sindhi Craft

Paradise Lost… & Found Again

Dessert p. 54

ONE for the p. 92

A

PAKISTANI

SUMMER

p. 126

IN LONDON

NEAR & AFAR 24 26

Dream Destinations Destinations Desires

A LIFE WORTH LIVING 74

A Love Unconditional

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 92

7

ROAD

One for the Road

REFLECTIONS

Nights in

106 118

Paris

A Pakistani Summer in London Memories in Sepia

DESTINATIONS DIARY 126

7 Nights in Paris

WANDERER 54 137

p. 106 p. 74

Paradise Lost… and Found Again A Journey Through Time

A WORLD OF GOOD 150

Agents of Change - Najia Siddiqui

THE FASHION FIX 156

Good as Gold: The Whole Nine Yards

TRAVELISTA 144

In Pursuit of Happiness - Beijing

LET’S DISH 179

Dame Pan Y Dime Tonto

A LOVE Unconditional

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : MARIAM MUSHTAQ FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR : ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH DESIGN & LAYOUT : USMAN MUNIR ZOHAIB AKHTAR OBAID-UL-MOHSIN OFFICIAL PHOTOGRAPHER : UBAID-UR-REHMAN MEDIA SALES : NAEEM ULLAH KARACHI CORRESPONDENT: YASMEEN HASHMI CIRCULATION INCHARGE : SHAAN ALI PUBLISHED BY : Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma Chowk, Lahore, Pakistan +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : SHERIAR HASSAN CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER (DAEWOO) : USMAN HAYAT LEGAL ADVISOR : BASIT WAHEED WATTOO CONTACT (SALES) : +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) naeem.ullah@daewoo.com.pk +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk DISTRIBUTORS: NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY PRINTERS : TOPICAL PRINTERS

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destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

destinationspk

contributors Mehvash Amin

Fifi Haroon

Momina Aijazuddin Saeed

Sidra Haque

Memories in Sepia p.118

A Pakistani Summer in London p.106

In Pursuit of Happiness Beijing p.144

7 Nights in Paris p.126

Mehvash Amin studied Literature at the University of the Punjab and went on to study Modern Letters at the Sorbonne, Paris. Her poems have been published in an anthology Tangerine in the Sun as well as in various literary journals, including Vallum, New International Poetics (Canada), Sugar Mule (U.S.), Missing Slate and the book Capitals by Abhay Khanna (Bloombury Press), launched at the Jaipur Literary Festival in 2017. Her poem, Karachi, was nominated for the Pushcart Award. She has been editor of various lifestyle magazines over a period of 14 years. As well as being Editor-in-Chief of The Aleph Review, she is also the publisher of the journal.

Fifi Haroon has been a leading journalist and media producer for over 20 years. She earned degrees in politics (Bryn Mawr), law (Cambridge University) and Media Anthropology (SOAS, London University), the last as a Chevening Scholar. She has written extensively on travel, film and pop culture for many publications and websites including The Independent and Newsweek Pakistan. Haroon works as a senior broadcast journalist and presenter for the BBC World Service in London in both Urdu and English.

She has sung with Junoon and tweets to over 55,000 followers as @fifiharoon.

Momina Aijazuddin Saeed currently lives in Washington D.C. with her family and works in international development.

She is an avid traveller and passionate about culinary adventures, books and culture.

A Public Administration graduate, Sidrah Haque works in government administration, and spends her free time reading, baking and planning her next travel destination.

Jaffer Hasan

The Great Escape p.38

editors note from the

Dog days are far from over. Here in the Northern Hemisphere they’ve only just begun. The fact that this issue will carry you into summer and through most of it has led us to carefully source and curate a wonderful repertoire of ideas, stories and memories from across Pakistan and around the world. This brilliant cluster features essential summer guides, fascinating travelogues and introductions to interesting places and activities both widely and some little known.

Life’s a beach when you can beat the heat. One way to drown out the hustle and bustle of the big city is to head off for the Arabian Sea coastline, ideally a few miles away from mainland Karachi. It’s at one of these beaches where we have some fun in the sun with cover stars, Adnan Siddiqui and Bilal Ashraf. Starring together in the upcoming Pakistani blockbuster, Yalghaar, these two friends make the great escape for some much needed respite as promotions pick up speed for their film’s imminent release.

It’s vacation season, a time when wanderlust becomes all too real. Safinah and Danish Elahi’s Jordanian getaway is giving us major travel goals as they walk in the footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia, float in the healing waters of the Dead Sea or make a journey back in time while on a visit to the prehistoric city of Petra.

In fact, journeys back in time make for charming storytelling.

In a rare personal memoir, journalist, writer and more recently publisher, Mehvash Amin reflects on both outward and inward journeys she has taken as a person through various stages Talking of great escapes, this issue features the motorcycle in her life. It is the sepia tints that lend focus to the time she diaries of Marius Boncutiu, a Romanian who fell in love with spent as a scholar student in Paris, somewhere in the seventies Pakistan while on a transcontinental biking trip across Europe when socialist philosophy was still a major political ideal. and Asia. We chronicle the tale he recounts from his trip to our Northern areas; one of unparalleled scenic beauty and However, documenting today’s Paris is the diary of travel warm hospitality as he rides through some of the highest enthusiast, Sidrah Haque that could serve as a guide on what paved roads in the world to see mythical lakes, fabled one needs to know about the French capital’s must-see sights mountainous valleys and the confluence of three of the for your summer trip there. world’s greatest mountain ranges.

But if you’re in the mood for a more “quirky, tempting, There’s much to love in Pakistan. We are proud to highlight seductive and occasionally hidden” London instead, let two inspiring stories of craftsmanship and indigenous clothing leading journalist and media producer, Fifi Haroon chart out culture; of ethical fashion and fair trade; of preserving old an unprecedented and most possibly, an unforgettable trip to techniques for new times. There’s Najia Siddiqui of Adorn the British capital.

Online, working with traditional techniques from interior Sindh; and there’s Mohsin Sayeed of The Pink Tree relating Whether we head off to big beach holidays or for group legends of glorious times when a garment was a product of mountain vacations, Momina Aijazuddin Saeed reminds us to passion; a labor of love. pause and personalize spiritual happiness. In an essay on her time in Beijing, she talks about how she internalizes the peace While on the topic of love, four resident Karachi-ites give and tranquility of the Lama temple. There is really so much us the complete lowdown on motherhood and the joys of to see and do. This issue is wholly dedicated to the wonderful parenting, bringing up their children in today’s world, their world waiting out there for you. So pack your bags and carry love for travel and what they plan to do these holidays. all your love with you! Run.

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH

FEATURES & COMMISSIONING EDITOR

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

NEAR & AFAR

Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.

How to get there:

What to do:

Naltar is renowned for its three lakes known as the Bashkiri Lakes, which are reputed to have calm azure waters. The serenity of the lakes is best enjoyed by camping besides them for a night. The valley boasts lush green meadows and alpine forests in the summer and provides Naltar Valley is the ideal plenty of opportunities for spot to unleash your trekking. adventurous spirit and in soak to ing camp go the beauty of this region – where snow-capped mountains, lush alpine forests and crystal clear blue lakes all come together.

Gilgit can be reached via airplane and jeeps are hired from there to make the journey to Naltar, which is approximately 2 hours long.

Where to stay:

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Naltar Valley Located in the Gilgit-Baltistan province, about 40km from Gilgit, the valley is known for some of the most unspoilt and breathtaking views of nature, especially during the summer months, hence making this the perfect time to visit.

Kanazawa, Japan

Go off the beaten path in Japan and pay a visit to this oft overlooked historic jewel on the western coast of Honshu, known for its beautiful gardens, art museums, gorgeous handicrafts and well-preserved districts from the Edo era dating back to the 17th century.

How to get there: Fly to Tokyo via any major airline and then take the Hokuriku Shinkansen, Japan’s bullet train, for a trip that’s just under 2½ hours. Kanazawa’s train station is a sight in itself – a futuristic marvel that integrates a traditional wooden temple gate with glass and steel.

Where to stay: Hotel Nikko is Kanazawa’s most luxurious hotel and at 130m, the tallest building in the region.

All rooms are located on the 17th floor or higher, offering panoramic views of the city. The hotel is conveniently located right in front of the railway station and quite near most tourist attractions.

What to do: Kanazawa is home to the famous Kenroku-en Garden, a landscape garden dating from the 17th century and a place for peaceful walks and contemplation. The city boasts many preserved geisha and samurai districts as well as some wonderful museums, such as the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art and the Kanazawa Museum of Modern Literature. Visit the Omicho Market for a truly local experience and to sample some world-class sushi and sashimi from the many small restaurants that dot the market.

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NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

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FLOC – For The Love of Coffee For your post-iftar caffeine fix, head over to FLOC – For The Love of Coffee, the latest addition to Karachi’s café scene. Coffee aficionados will love the fact that FLOC has nitro coffee on its menu – a strong brew that’s served chilled, a godsend in this scorching heat. Tucked away in one of Zamzama’s busy lanes, next to Espresso, this cute little coffee chop also serves up some delectable dishes, such as creamy scrambled eggs with salmon and spicy Korean popcorn chicken.

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Auntie Munaver’s Dessert and Savoury If you live in Karachi and haven’t tasted Auntie Munaver’s triple milk cake, you’re missing out on what is arguably the best cake in town! This home-run bakery, and the scrumptious desserts its ovens churn out, have garnered a cult following. This Eid, decorate your festive spread with one of its sweet offerings, such as the aforementioned cake which comes in a variety of toppings, the cherry shortbread or the chocolate profiteroles. Place your Eid orders now by calling at 0302 8273100.

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3 The Delicatessen by Cosa Nostra Mornings just got better with the introduction of The Delicatessen’s breakfast menu, featuring an array of mouth-watering options to get your day started on the right now. Indulge your sweet tooth with the fried donuts or the brioche waffles, order a granola parfait if you’re counting calories or go all out with the breakfast pizza or the omelette sandwich.

If you’re planning to make this a sehri outing, it’s best to go early as the items run out fast.

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Delish No Eid celebration is complete without the right dessert, and if you’re looking for something special to gift your loved ones this festive season, Delish makes cakes that not only look beautiful but taste divine as well.

Delish allows you to custom-make your orders and there’s nothing like a personalized cake to make someone’s day! You can also order cupcakes, cake pops and cookies if you’re seeking a little more variety. Call 0322 6633884 to place your order or visit the Delish kiosk in Gulberg Galleria or their cafés in Emporium and Packages Mall.

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Pink Pistachio For those of you with a penchant for the exotic, Pink Pistachio’s range of fusion desserts is just perfect. Whether it’s the kiwi barfi, a classic barfi with a kiwi twist wrapped in betel leaf, or the saffron, cardamom and pistachio macaroons, these East-meets-West delicacies are the perfect treats for celebrations and gifts. You can also opt for the less adventurous but just as stunning seasonal and chocolate desserts, such as the mango tart topped with fresh cherry compote or the oreo chocolate tart with salted caramel. Orders can be placed at 0324 1010222 or 0315 4005171.

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MAN ON THE SCENE

Director’s CUT

By Sonya Rehman

This month, DESTINATIONS celebrates Yalghaar, Dr. Hassan Waqas Rana’s magnum opus, a war film of epic proportions, featuring not only the country’s leading stars but also a mega budget that has earned it the title of Pakistan’s most expensive film to date. Yet, at the heart of it, Yalghaar has a simple message – as a patriot’s ode to the thousands of men who risk their lives for their country every day, it is a film that celebrates the ties that bind us to the motherland. As we gear up for Yalghaar’s imminent release, journalist Sonya Rehman delves into the ideas that define patriotism and uncovers how they are uniquely reflected in the works of various filmmakers.

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ocal cinema is on the rise, what with the help of independent filmmakers who have brought a number of genres and stories to the big screen. While some have gone the safe, commercial route, i.e. aping formulaic Bollywood productions, others have taken the longer, albeit more offbeat and original path.

Through local cinema’s new avatar, the Pakistani identity has come to the fore. And from a sense of identity comes the emotion of a patriot. Despite being relatively new, current-day cinema has managed to instigate a dialogue with its audiences; a dialogue that questions the system, sparks inspiration for change and proactivity, gives much-needed space for the imagination, and above all, ropes the heart back to home turf.

In seeking to build a national identity, one that is uniquely Pakistani, filmmakers have taken diverse routes. So while Shoaib Mansoor’s Khuda Kay Liye (2007) sought to question the rise of radicalism, Bilal Lashari’s Waar (2013) was an unabashedly commercial crowd-pleaser whose slick action struck the right patriotic notes.

There was the sublime Moor (2015), director Jami’s hauntingly beautiful ode to the beauty of Balochistan, a part of Pakistan that rarely features in mainstream media; as well as the quirky Zinda Bhaag (2013), that lovingly recreated Lahore’s gritty underbelly on the big screen. Each of these filmmakers has provided audiences with provocative questions about the system, while touching on subjects that are not only taboo, but rarely ever questioned and challenged.

What further binds these filmmakers, and many others like them, is the fact that they have used their “Pakistani-ness” to their advantage, taking on subjects that are inherently rooted in their culture and their country. What sets them apart, however, is their interpretation of that sense of identity – each one distinct yet equally meaningful, thus giving us various definitions of what it means to belong to a country, a land and its people.

DESTINATIONS speaks with three independent filmmakers who continue their quest as artistes to not only bring thought-provoking subjects to the big screen but also project their patriotism through their art.

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Hassan Waqas Rana MAN ON THE SCENE

Dr.

Fillmmaker Dr. Hassan Waqas Rana dons the hats of writer, producer and director of the much-awaited Pakistani flick, Yalghaar.

Featuring Shaan Shahid, Humayun Saeed, Adnan Siddiqui, Bilal Ashraf, Ayesha Omar, Armeena Khan and more, Rana says that his inspiration for the movie was a result of pedestrian attempts by South Asian cinema in putting together war epics for the big screen.

“Making a war epic is generally considered a Herculean effort in terms of cinema,” Rana states. “Some were of the opinion that it cannot be done (at least never in Pakistan) and that to me was honestly like waving a red cloth in the face of a raging bull!” Having dealt with similar criticism before the release of Bilal Lashari’s Waar (for which Rana debuted as producer), Rana hopes to prove the critics wrong once again with Yalghaar.

The film is based on the Pakistan Army’s Swat Operation in the Swat district in 2009, and the filmmaker reveals that he had the opportunity to visit the front lines (during the operation) and meet with a number of soldiers and army officers at the time. “I decided to take inspiration from their acts of heroism and tell my story using theirs as [Yalghaar’s] backdrop.”

Speaking about his inclination towards productions that follow the lines of Pakistan’s war against terrorism, Rana says that the topic needs to be consistently brought to the forefront. “No nation or its people have suffered as much as Pakistan and its citizens,” the filmmaker says. “We have lost men, women, children, the young and the old… what the world doesn’t realize is that this war is not just for Pakistan, it’s a war for the world. That’s why it becomes my responsibility – both as a Pakistani and as a filmmaker – to keep hammering this point home.”

“Patriotism to me is a blood oath between my country and I,” Rana says when speaking about his definition of patriotism, an emotion that has been a motivating factor behind his mega projects. “Being a patriot does not mean that I have to go out and physically fight for my country; it has to be visible in every action that I take during the course of my days.”

Currently working on two “international projects” in the capacity of a scriptwriter and also knee-deep in the pre-production work for Waar 2, Rana thinks that local cinema is still in an “embryonic stage.” However, the filmmaker is of the opinion that the next two years are crucial in determining the course of Pakistani cinema.

“Pakistan and Pakistanis are an inspiration to a writer,” he replies, when questioned about how living on home turf inspires his art. “It has had a huge influence on my thoughts; there are so many stories that need to be told – there’s so much beauty here… from the beaches to the deserts and to the highest peaks, we have everything very few countries have.”

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MAN ON THE SCENE

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MAN ON THE SCENE

Jami

The well-known director based in Karachi, Jamshed Mahmood Raza (fondly known as Jami), is recognized for his fantastic music videos for some of the country’s leading pop stars and music acts such as Strings, Hadiqa Kiyani, Ali Azmat, Atif Aslam, Ali Zafar and numerous others. Apart from his natural flair for directing acclaimed music videos, the filmmaker has also produced commercials and ad films for multinationals like Nokia, Unilever and Nestle, to name a few.

Having founded his very own production house, the Azad Film Company, in 2002 on his return from the US, Jami’s talent has also been showcased on the big screen in the form of O21, a 2014 spy thriller (starring Shaan Shahid in the lead), and Moor (released in 2015); a beautifully executed film based on the railway system in Balochistan.

“We don’t have a voice,” Jami states candidly, when asked about local cinema’s current state. “We’ve borrowed [our voice] from Bollywood and are just replicating it in our films. Ninety percent of these films died so-called commercial ventures.”

For Jami, patriotism is defined as a strong sense of honesty that often translates into his work. “All my best work, be it Rawaan [a music video that the director made for Telenor Pakistan which illustrated the country’s breathtaking beauty], music videos or films like Moor – it’s all deeply-rooted [and centred] in Pakistan.”

One only has to watch the trailer of Moor to realize the truth behind that statement. The film is the result of the director’s love and dedication to the people of Balochistan. The province’s breathtaking scenery provides the backdrop for this tale of love, loss and corruption set amidst the closure of the Zhob railways in the 80s. For many Pakistanis, who know little about the history and landscape of Balochistan, Moor served not only as a captivating story but also an enriching lesson into the nation’s diverse make-up. Moor received rave reviews both locally and internationally, with the Hollywood Reporter calling it, “magnificently shot, with strong performances and polished production specs… Moor is the kind of invigorating jolt the Pakistani film industry needs.”

Tight-lipped about his current projects, Jami states that if there were one production he’d like to make, it would be a documentary on the life and death of Mashal Khan, the slain student (from the Abdul Wali Khan University in Mardan), who was killed in cold blood this year by fellow students on false charges of blasphemy.

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Zali Shahnawaz Enchanted by the world of cinema since he was little, Shahnawaz Zali’s documentary, 100 Steps – Sou Qadam, made waves after being nominated for the 43rd Student Academy Awards last year – no small feat for a 20-something Pakistani.

Based on a thirteen-year-old boy who gets embroiled into the world of radicalism, the documentary has garnered a great buzz overseas.

“The inspiration behind 100 Steps was the re-occurring theme in the media of our nation’s problems: from terrorism to social issues. It made me realize that if I wanted to bring about a change in my own country, I needed to first study why these problems were arising in the first place,” states the young filmmaker, whose list of accolades is already running long.

As Zali’s documentary continued to bag awards at international film festivals, the young director himself made it to Forbes Asia’s 30 Under 30 list this year, nominated alongside the likes of Alia Bhatt and Margot Robbie.

“For a nation to progress, we must first acknowledge the fact that there’s a problem, only then can we work towards a solution,” he says.

Currently working towards launching his own production company, Zali Films, and penning a script for local television, the young filmmaker also reveals a plan that’s in the works for his upcoming documentary. “[The documentary] will focus on bringing second generation Pakistanis – who’ve never been to Pakistan before – to the country and record their experiences,” he says.

“I’m a big advocate for social change through cinema,” Zali states. “I believe that there is a positive link between the two because cinema is not only a tool where we share our ideas and stories, but it also can be used to create thought-provoking content that opens up a dialogue for audiences, which can ultimately result in social change. Think about Khuda Kay Liye, Bol, Moor, Saving Face and A Girl in the River; once you watch these productions, you can’t forget them. If the film/ documentary has made you discuss the topic that it highlights, then it has done its job in sparking a dialogue with its audiences… and with that, comes social change.”

MAN ON THE SCENE

The Great

Escape

Photography: Styling: Grooming: Concept: Video Production: Transportation: 38

Jaffer Hasan Ehtesham Ansari N-Gents Team DESTINATIONS FrontRow Studios Daewoo Cab

Leading men Bilal Ashraf and Adnan Siddiqui, stars of the upcoming Yalghaar, escape the chaos of their beloved Karachi to explore the rugged coastline bordering Sindh and Balochistan. From the shores of the Arabian Sea to the open roads coursing through wild, untamed land around the coast to charming little fishing villages, the duo go on a voyage of discovery as they take respite from their busy lives.

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MAN ON THE SCENE

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Adnan Shirt: Scarf: Shades:

Ahmed Bham Stylist’s Collection RayBan

Bilal Outfit: Shades:

El-Ganso Burberry

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MAN ON THE SCENE

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Adnan Shirt: Scarf: Shades:

Ahmed Bham Stylist’s Collection RayBan

Bilal Outfit: Scarf:

El-Ganso Splash

Shirt & Waistcoat: Ahmed Bham Jeans: Diesel

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MAN ON THE SCENE

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Outfit: El-Ganso

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MAN ON THE SCENE Outfit: Shades: Scarf & Accessories:

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El-Ganso Super Shades Stylist’s Collection

Shirt: Ambassador Trousers: Ahmed Bham Footwear: Hush Puppies Shades: RayBan Jacket: El-Ganso

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MAN ON THE SCENE

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Shirt: Ambassador Trousers: Ahmed Bham Footwear: Hush Puppies Shades: RayBan Jacket: El-Ganso

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Bilal Ashraf MAN ON THE SCENE

From crunching numbers on Wall Street to ruling the box office back home, Bilal Ashraf’s rise to stardom has been anything but ordinary. Armed with a double major in Finance and Arts from Franklin & Marshall, the Karachi native worked as a hedge fund consultant in NYC till his move back to Pakistan in 2009. Given his chiselled good looks and dimpled smile, coupled with a deep interest in the visual arts, a career in films while seemingly a big career jump seemed oddly fated.

Bilal’s debut film, the romantic drama Janaan, released last year to great acclaim, firmly cementing his position as a shining star in Pakistan’s burgeoning film industry. Now, he’s all set to take on a completely different persona from Janaan’s dreamy Asfandyar as he flexes his muscles playing SSG commando Capt. Bilal in the soon-to-be released Yalghaar.

What are you excited about currently?

I’m extremely excited about the release of Yalghaar.

I’ve been working on this project for almost three and a half years now and have put my heart and soul into it. I’m super excited because I can share all the hard work that I’ve done on the film with everyone. I think the director Dr. Hassan Rana really put me through the grind and it’s been worth it.

What drew you to the project?

I’ve always wanted to be part of the army, it’s something I dreamed about as a child, and here I am – playing Captain Bilal, an SSG commando. For me it’s a huge honour that I am representing our armed forces on screen.

What has been the most challenging part of the role?

Staying fit has been the most challenging part of this role. I had to maintain a set fat percentage throughout the shoot in order to get a soldier’s physique. Every time we would shoot a spell, I would have to drop down to 9 to 10 percent body fat. I was shooting for Janaan concurrently, so that meant I was jumping from one project to the other, and coming back into this character and starting again was very tough.

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I had to be very disciplined in terms of my diet. I was on boiled foods and undergoing a very tough physical regime. Then I was also working behind the camera; I was the effects director. That was also challenging because it’s a separate role altogether.

You’re working alongside some of the biggest names in Pakistani cinema in Yalghaar. What has the experience been like?

I think it’s great, I’m getting to work with legends like Shaan Shahid, Humayun Saeed, Adnan Siddiqui and Ali Khosa. Then we have some younger and established actors, such as Armeena Khan, who is playing my love interest, and Ayesha Omer. There are some really great newcomers in the film also, such as Ahmed Taha Ghani and Wali Yousuf. These names will be the future superstars of Pakistan. My good friends Ali Rehman Khan and Gohar Rasheed are also part of the cast. We’ve been like one big family – we’ve had ups and downs but the good thing is that we were all together!

What do you want audiences to take away with them when they leave the theatres after watching the film?

I want the audience to understand that the fact that they are sitting down to watch this film in the cinema means that men are giving up their lives on the border and protecting us, keeping us safe to carry on with our daily lives. Through touching personal stories, the film shows what the consequences are of a soldier’s sacrifice – how it affects his family, those around them and eventually, all of us. When people go to the cinema to watch Yalghaar, they will be grateful to the Pakistani army, the best army in the world.

Outfit: Shades: Scarf & Accessories:

El-Ganso Super Shades Stylist’s Collection

What has been your toughest role to date?

The toughest one has been that of Captain Bilal.

I’m now working on a film called Rangreza where I’m playing a musician and that has been also challenging since I don’t know how to play any musical instruments. I had to learn from scratch, but that’s not been as life threatening as Yalghaar!

Doing my own stunts, jumping from buildings, firing live rocket launchers and grenades – it definitely wasn’t easy.

What’s the one thing that you love about Karachi? And one thing you wish you could change?

It’s very hard to pinpoint but I think Karachi has this buzz, this vibe which I haven’t felt anywhere else. Yes, it has its share of problems but I always keep coming back to Karachi. It’s home, of course, but there’s something more about this city. Its energy is addictive. If it has problems, it is our duty to try to fix those problems, rather than being the kind of people who only bring negativity to the table, instead of solutions.

If someone were to make a movie based on your life, who would you pick to play you?

That’s a really tough one! I think it actually depends on who the director is and he would be able to pick the right actor. I think if one person can definitely direct this film, it is Dr. Hassan Rana. He knows me really well, and I think he’s a great director so he can make the right choice in casting because he’s definitely done a good job in casting the people in Yalghaar and handling them at the same time.

What’s next?

What’s next is Rangreza! Rangreza is a film where I’m essaying the role of a pop icon. We have the same dream team who propelled Janaan to great heights internationally, including producer Munir Hussain and Sunil Shah of B4U Films. I couldn’t have asked for better co-actors.

There’s my buddy Gohar Rasheed and Urwa, a brilliant actress. The film will be out in cinemas very soon.

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Adnan Siddiqui MAN ON THE SCENE

From the moment he graced the silver screen in PTV’s iconic Uroosa, Adnan Siddiqui cemented his place as the heartthrob of a generation. With a career spanning over two decades, Adnan is an award-winning versatile actor who has played iconic roles across various TV networks and starred alongside Angelina Jolie in A Mighty Heart (2007).

The handsome actor is now venturing into Bollywood with the upcoming Mom, starring alongside Sridevi, and will soon be making his debut in Pakistani cinema with Yalghaar. DESTINATIONS recently caught up with the actor to get a lowdown on what the future holds.

What are you excited about currently?

Well, I’m always excited about everything! As far as my upcoming projects are concerned, the soon-to-air play Ghugghi is what I’m really looking forward to.

My two films, Yalghaar and Mom, are also releasing soon and I’m hyped for all of them. Interesting days ahead!

How do you choose a particular project?

Anything that has substance would certainly find me curious; it does not have to be star-studded, the role should speak to me and the character should be challenging. If a project/script has all these ingredients, you will find me involved.

What do you find most challenging about your work?

The most challenging part for me is to pass each day with goodness, faithfulness, protection, grace and mercy. I thank the Almighty for being able to live an ideal life and the success he has blessed me with.

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Tell us more about some of your upcoming projects.

Ghugghi is very close to my heart. It is a signature project of a fresh production house, so it is really challenging. Being a one-of-a-kind project, it requires the best of me, including hopping onto a horse, riding it and even scooping the heroine off the ground. Moreover, I have been given the opportunity to work with such an artistic group of people. I want this play to be of interest to both men and women, the audience to have a good time, give it a thumbs up and certainly that it becomes a play which they would want to watch again and again.

Mom is another exciting project for me, as I have gotten the opportunity to work with the legend that is Sridevi, who is a very humble and inspiring person.

I play Sridevi’s husband in the film, while Sajal Aly is playing her 18-year-old stepdaughter. It’s a thriller that will have people at the edge of their seats and will be releasing in the first week of July.

What has been your toughest role to date?

I believe that every role is tough in itself as each role comes with a great responsibility and burden.

Serving it right and doing it justice is my foremost priority.

What’s the one thing that you love about Karachi?

I love Karachi because it is ‘my’ city. Karachi, being the heart of Pakistan, offers something to everyone.

This city never sleeps and neither do I. What’s not to love?!

And one thing you wish you could change about it?

I hope to have a clean Karachi. The removal of garbage from its streets remains probably my biggest dream and I wish someone would gather enough guts and civic sense to make it happen.

If someone were to make a movie based on your life, who would you pick to play you?

Undoubtedly, my son!

What’s next?

I never plan for the future, hence I never worry about what’s next. I see it, feel it, live in the moment and enjoy the present. For now, seeing this shoot on the cover of DESTINATIONS is “what’s next”!

Shirt: Scarf: Shades:

Ahmed Bham Stylist’s Collection RayBan

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WANDERER

Photography: Madeeha Syed

Paradise &

Lost‌

Found Again

By Madeeha Syed

A visit to a small, secluded and charming fishing village in Balochistan, bordering the coast of Karachi, revealed that it has changed over the years but there’s still a little magic left.

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t was in the middle of the afternoon and we were stuck somewhere in the boonies on a singular road that went through a rocky mountainous range between Karachi’s popular picnic beaches and the bareness that we knew to be Balochistan. Most of us didn’t have a clue exactly where we were, or how far from ‘civilization.’ On call for the music video Shahi Hasan (of Vital Signs fame) had been filming since 3am, hungry and sleep-deprived, I had stopped enjoying the ‘experience’ a while back and was desperately scanning the horizon for any sign of deliverance from this awful heat.

I spotted what looked like water. I couldn’t believe it.

“So, where should we go?” asked Shahi, finally ready to take a break. “Over there,” I responded, pointing to a teeny tiny strip of the sea in the distance.

Where there was water, there were bound to be people.

As we got closer, three men riding camels at a brisk jog passed by. Their saddles were quite colourful — a complete contrast against the brown environment — and displayed cutwork in mirrors that reflected the sunlight so you could see them approaching from a distance. They seemed very amused by our presence. A little forward and we saw a lone man who had let his camel out to graze on whatever little patch of grass was out there. He too seemed quite pleased at having company for a few minutes.

We even crossed a small group of women who had metal pails balanced precariously on their foreheads as they went about collecting drinking water for their homes.

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The children ran up to our bus before we could even get off. The fishing village we had arrived at did not have any concrete houses; there were only shacks. The only things that seemed to carry the slightest value were the pots, pans and pails piled outside what I assume was the kitchen. The only cover on the beach were little huts made from planks of wood roughly nailed together with large gaps between each plank. Holding it together was a fishing net. This was to be our shelter. A sign above the only, incredibly modest, store read ‘Welcome to Mubarak Village.’

“Do you have any food here?” one of the crew members asked a local. “There are no shops you can buy it from, but I can make you some,” he responded. “For 20 people?” the crewmember asked. “Yes, but I must warn you, it will be very expensive,” the local said. “How much?” the crewmember inquired. “500 rupees and not a paisa less,” responded the local firmly. “We’ll give you 2,000 rupees,” said the crewmember, “Just feed us well. Please.” The naiveté of the local was endearing. And indicative of how completely cut off this charming little village was from the outside world.

The only thing that seemed to carry the slightest value were the pots, pans and pails piled outside, what I assume, was the kitchen.

Our lunch was a feast of rice, lentils and potatoes cooked in earthenware pots over a wooden fire lending it a smoky flavor and it was absolutely delicious. While the others napped, I decided to go out and explore.

The sea was so beautiful. Before Mubarak Village, I hadn’t seen such a beautiful beach in Pakistan before. The water went from emerald green, to dark blue with depth. Closer to the shore, in the pools accumulated between the rocks, it was completely transparent. You could see tiny little sea creatures swimming about. Some children dove into the sea with short planks of wood fashioned like tiny surfboards trying to ride the waves – but the waves weren’t big enough.

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I was raised with a healthy fear of going in too deep to prevent accidental drowning – even though I can swim – so to see children engage with the sea so fearlessly was refreshing. Some of the fishermen were setting out to sea and their poor boats in contrast with the emerald green sea were also visible. I tried to climb a few rocks leading up to a cliff to get a better view of where we were and was constantly followed by a gang of children – ranging from eight or nine years old to as young as one of them holding a baby in her arms.

While I struggled with trying not to slip and fall, the children hopped up the cliff as if it was nothing at all. The little girl with the baby alarmed me most of all – the climb was precarious, the drop far down and lethal. But they were so confident, at ease and so much at home. Their agility put me completely to shame.

Mubarak Village and its wonderful people had completely stolen my heart and I was going to come back. Definitely.

Fast forward a few years later. I am bundled in my car with all of my camping gear, a German friend who had recently moved to Karachi and two other friends in another car in tow. We’re off to camp on the most beautiful beach in Pakistan and it was going to be wonderful. By now, roads had been 60

developed, awareness had increased and everybody who ventured to Balochistan knew where Mubarak village was. I had cycled the entire route from Karachi to Sonera Beach – next to Mubarak Village – a few times before and was quite confident I could get all of us to our destination.

Crossing the necessary check posts and after getting lost a couple of times we finally made it. The village had changed – it had grown bigger. Instead of one or two beach shacks, there were about 20 and as is inevitable with any place that experiences even the slightest boost in tourism: there was trash on the once pristine beach. But we had been driving for hours and were not going to turn back.

We befriended one of the locals, who promised to stay with us. Apparently, the villagers are a bit suspicious of ‘outsiders’ spending the night and may have asked us to leave, something we really didn’t want to do. We set out in search of the ‘right’ camping spot and found a secluded area close to some cliffs on the other side that separated us from Sonera beach.

We set up our camp — pitched our tents, spread our sleeping bags, took out our food, sat on our foldout chairs. Our local friend was given a sleeping bag as well. We stared at the stars, heard the sea and Local Friend told us several stories — one of them

involving a container ship at sea that met with an accident resulting in them offloading some of their cargo … which turned out be crates and crates of foreign beer (“It had a red cover”) the villagers enjoyed for some time.

“I don’t know why you guys are so fascinated by the stars,” he said, when I pointed out different constellations. “We see them every day.”

“Every few minutes I see men go between those rocks, what’s going on?” I asked him. “They’re using the toilet,” he responded with a laugh.

I think I could’ve done without that piece of information.

Mubarak Village may not be the same small, secluded, charming little fishing village I fell in love with, but the increased tourism had provided the locals with an additional source of income.

They understood the need for conservation – of their environment – and struggled with implementing measures that would ensure their beaches remain clean. But as with any major change, they are learning to adapt to it and make it work to their advantage.

While the others slept, I kept waking up in the middle of the night and would look out at the sea, afraid the tide might reach us. I stepped out into the dark and saw my German friend attempting some kind of yoga move under the moonlight. We didn’t say a word. The sound of the waves was enough.

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STYLE RULES

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Giti: Waleed:

Nickie Nina Waistcoat - Bareeze Man Kurta - Republic

SaveforRoom

Dessert Photography: Hair and Make-up: Art Direction: Food Styling: Wardrobe Coordination: Models:

MHM Saima Rashid Bargefrede Team DESTINATIONS Mona Aarinda-Tul-Noor Yasmeen Hashmi Waleed Khalid Giti Ara

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Giti: Waleed:

Yasmeen:

Nickie Nina Waistcoat - Bareeze Man Kurta - Republic RaSa by Rana Noman & Sara Gillani

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STYLE RULES

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Yasmeen: Waleed:

Giti:

Zara Shahjahan Jacket - Republic Kurta - Republic Pants - Bareeze Man Karma Pink

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Giti: Nickie Nina Yasmeen: RaSa by Rana Noman &

Sara Gillani

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STYLE RULES Giti: Nickie Nina

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Waleed: HSY

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STYLE RULES Yasmeen: Sublime

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Giti: Shirt - Sublime Gharara - Zara Shahjahan

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING

A LOVE

Unconditional

By Yusra Askari

Join us in conversation with four resident Karachiites as they speak on motherhood and the joys of parenting, bringing up their children in today’s world, their love for travel and what they plan to do these holidays. Here are some of their tricks, tips and secrets. Meet Shaniera Akram, Madiha Sultan Tai, Sara Saigol Mushtaq, Maha Ahmad Hussain and their beautiful families.

Photography: Malika Abbas Hair & Make-up: Faheem @ Rukaiya’s Salon

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haniera Akram

Her romance with the city she now calls home began some 4 years ago when, in the fall of 2013, she moved to Pakistan after her marriage to cricketing legend Wasim Akram. Meet Shaniera Akram, the now quintessential Karachiite who, despite her fairly recent acquaintance with the city, has made it her own. “I am in love with Karachi, a passion that only keeps getting stronger. The city has the ability to make you dance with happiness and break your heart, all in one day. A relationship that doesn’t have its triumphs and tragedies is not a love affair, is it?” she laughs.

family to be happy. And when you are a mother, friendship is a given, but sometimes you have to detach yourself as a friend and stand strongly in your maternal role. Children need a mother, anyone can be their friend. Being a mother is a 24/7 job, 365 days a year for the rest of your life, it doesn’t stop. No matter where you are or what you are doing, a part of your mind will always be on your children. You will think about them first thing in the morning and the last thing at night before you sleep.”

No matter where you are or what you are doing, a part of your mind will always be on your children.

Shaniera elaborates: “Karachi constantly keeps me on my toes – it challenges me every day, allowing me to discover who I really am. You have to work for the city’s love and it’s clearly not a relationship for the fainthearted. Everyone who lives here would know exactly what I mean. As a foreigner, I could ignore the city’s problems that I don’t understand but I embrace them. Karachi can be harsh and cruel sometimes so it’s up to us to breathe life and love in to it. It is my home and I will do anything I can to make it a better place.”

Just as she has embraced Karachi, Shaniera has made Wasim’s sons from his previous marriage her own. What began as friendship with Tahmoor and Akbar is today a bond much deeper. She explains: “I realized I couldn’t raise the boys on friendship alone, so I moved into the role of a mother. I strongly believe roles have to be defined for a

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“I am lucky to have such great children. Wasim’s late wife, Huma, did an amazing job raising Tahmoor and Akbar. She was a strong, loving mother and the children had grown on a great foundation, which made my job pretty easy as the boys already had so much love in their hearts,” adds Shaniera.

It’s very different having a little girl in the house after two boys and Shaniera and Wasim’s 2-year-old daughter Aiyla clearly has the entire Akram household wrapped around her little finger. “I come from an all-girls family so it’s great to have a companion around. Aiyla’s a tomboy who loves sports and the outdoors, water, nature and of course getting dirty in sand and mud, so she fits in well. She really is a breath of fresh air and the boys are totally besotted, which she uses to her advantage.”

“Wasim is completely in love with Aiyla, she lights up his life. He regrets having missed a lot of the younger days when the boys were growing up as he was constantly travelling, so this time he’s really enjoying it. To be honest I think it’s made him look and feel younger,” smiles Shaniera.

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The Akrams’ eldest, Tahmoor, recently left home for college. For Shaniera, Empty Nest Syndrome set in with his departure, despite having Akbar and Aiyla at home. She explains, “It was quite a change in the dynamics for our family. Tahmoor, Akbar and Aiyla are each very different. Tahmoor has become a very strong and independent young man who thrives on intellectual stimulation. He’s always up for a debate and challenges us to our best. He’s hilariously funny and a real moral support. For me, he was someone I could count on especially when Wasim was travelling. Tahmoor would always tell me the brutal truth but at the same time he totally had my back when I needed it. So when he left, I think a part of me went with him. To be honest it was a little lonely at the start.”

It was such a fun vacation. We laughed the whole time, especially when Wasim got mobbed at the Colosseum – the last place we would ever have thought we would be chased by fans! Aiyla wasn’t born then and we all promised we would make a point to come back with her one day.”

Luckily for her, she says that Akbar, who was always the baby of the family, has stepped in. “We have a special bond and always have an awesome time together so it’s been great just giving him extra attention at home. We are like two peas in a pod.”

For the Akrams, a dream vacation would be a family holiday in Africa. But this year, a safari isn’t on the cards as the family will spend Eid-ul-Fitr and most of the summer at home. Shaniera explains: “Wasim has just started his own television show and we’ll be staying in Karachi to support him.”

Given Wasim Akram’s hectic schedule and constant travelling, it’s difficult for the family to get much time together in Karachi. “These days when we are all together, we are usually on holiday,” says Shaniera. “Wasim hardly gets to relax because he is always busy with something work-related. But on holiday, we make it a point to eat together, especially in the evenings – that is always the focus of the day.”

Shaniera recalls the family’s most memorable holiday being a trip to Italy. “We still talk about it.

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Holidaying in her hometown in Australia is another family favourite. “The kids feel so at home there. My family is very close and love it when we all come to visit. The boys are very fond of my parents and refer to them as ‘the Aussie grandparents.’ One year we travelled to a lake in central Victoria and hired our own boats and sailed around the lake. We even got stuck in a wild Australian storm. It was quite the experience,” she recalls.

However, a short getaway towards the end of summer might be in the offing, as Wasim and Shaneira plan to surprise the kids with a family trip.

“We have a house in the English countryside and we make a trip down every year, so maybe we will head on over there. Who knows with Wasim – life is so exciting because you never know where you are going to be next. Which is why I say, cherish every moment with your loved ones and make sure you tell them how much you love them and how important they are to your life.”

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING Elaborating on her relationship with her daughters, Sara says, “My bond with Liya, Maya and Rania is one of friendship, as is their equation with each other.

It is extremely important to me that my daughters see me as someone who they can share anything with. I encourage them to be open with me and they know that they can trust me – always. We talk about everything from work to school. We love spending time together as family – be it eating out, or playing chess or cards, or having heated discussions on the dining table.”

ara Saigol Mushtaq

As you walk into the Saigol Mushtaq residence, the energy is palpable. From Sara’s elegant Carbon Home Accessories designs glistening bright in the warm afternoon sun to Liya’s sports gear tucked deep under the stairs, from Maya running after Bugsy, the resident canine, to Rania’s flamingoshaped floats just waiting to be thrown into the pool – you know that theirs is a home lived in to the fullest. One where love thrives. Each room, a perfect marriage of old-world charm coupled beautifully with contemporary nuances, tells you a story, best brought alive in Sara’s own words.

“As I hear the footsteps approach my room, synchronizing with one another, it is only expected that my three daughters, Liya, Maya and Rania, are ready to give me the daily scoop. As they rant, or smile about their day, their faces full of expression remind me of the spark that they ignite within my world. My daughters create a glow in my life that is irreplaceable.

Sara believes her growing years were very different from those of her daughters. “I am also one of three siblings. I have two brothers. I never had the chance to play dress up or ask my brothers for advice. Liya, Maya and Rania have that bond and a strong sense of understanding with one another.”

Having spent her childhood in Lahore, Sara moved to Karachi after her wedding. She has since called the city her home. “Karachi was a different city back then.

Smaller, less volatile. Times are now different. My daughters are growing up in a different world, one in which you always have to watch your back,” she feels.

We love spending time together as family – be it eating out, or playing chess or cards, or heated discussions on the dining table.”

It’s a world where the importance of family and having a support system to fall back on is paramount. In order to cherish and nurture that bond, Sara says that there is nothing she enjoys more than travelling with the girls. The Saigol Mushtaqs’ most memorable holiday was a skiing trip to Courchevel in the winter.

“There were lots of falls, lots of snowball fights and of course, great après-ski. In my view, an ideal vacation is simply about being together with family and loved ones. It’s the small things that count.”

“Whether it is teaching Rania fractions, chasing Maya to get in the shower or choosing Liya’s outfits – the girls excite my 206 bones. As I follow trails of clothes of three different sizes across the wooden floor while hearing Ariana Grandé blast through the speakers, the joy of being a mother to the girls is a feeling that a million words With her eldest, Liya, soon heading off to college, Sara couldn’t describe. is dreading the Empty Nest Syndrome that will set in after. “I can’t believe time has gone by so fast. We are “At moments when I find myself staring at my the best of friends and Maya, Rania and I are going to reflection, I witness my own mother in the mirror. A miss her dearly,” she says. “Before Liya flies off to the mother who till today holds a huge portion of my heart and whose steps I follow both consciously and US, we have the summer all planned out. We are all set travel around Europe as a family and explore new unconsciously. The woman who would wait at the countries.” bottom of the stairs to catch me in case I slipped still plays the role of an idol in my eyes. I hope to be there for my daughters in the same way.”

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aha Ahmad Hussain

The sun shone bright. A sprawling expanse of manicured lawn led my way through to the big oak doors and up the stairs. We were greeted by Bella, the family Shihtzu, who scurried out to escort me in. ‘Z’ marked the spot. My destination had arrived.

Zeyad and Zayer’s rooms were abuzz with much activity. Gurgles and chuckles interspersed with bursts of laughter could be heard as bow-ties were knotted and cuffs were rolled up. It sure was a busy afternoon at the Ahmad Hussain residence.

Luckily, she has the perfect role model to look up to, her own mother. “My mother and I are friends. I turn to her for any and everything possible. Without her I’m truly nothing.” Maha hopes her relationship with her sons will mirror her own bond with her mother.

“My kids are my greatest joy. Helping mould them into the best versions of themselves and nurturing them to become kind, patient, respectful individuals will be my greatest accomplishment, ever,” she stresses.

Mother of two, Maha grew up in Jeddah. Despite hailing from Karachi and always having a base in the city, it was only after her marriage to Sameer that she has called it home.

“It is still difficult – the struggle to believe that this is it, this is where I’ll always live, is real.

But at the end of the day, this is my home. Karachi is my identity, one that has helped me grow into the person I am today,” she says.

And how does the Ahmad Hussain clan like spending time together? “To us as a family, quality time with one another simply involves hanging out. Be it travelling together, spending the day by the pool or lazing on the couch cuddled together, we love being in each other’s company,” says Maha.

To us as a family, quality time with one another simply involves hanging out.

Maha believes her childhood was very different to that of her sons. “I grew up in an international community, one where I had the privilege of being exposed to different religions and many, many different cultures. It was a beautiful feeling to interact with people of various nationalities and ethnicities and to have friends who spoke a different native language to yours or looked different to you. Living in Karachi, Zeyad and Zayer won’t have that kind of exposure. I find it very unfortunate that they won’t get to experience the I diversity I grew up on, till much later in life,” she says.

A working mother, Maha heads Fashion Merchandising at Sana Safinaz and is aware of the fine balance that her personal and professional lives demand. “The key to drawing a balance between professional responsibilities and family is prioritizing. It helps you put things in perspective and keeps one sane.”

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For Maha and her young family, a dream holiday would be a trip to Thailand.

“We vacationed there two years ago, but now with the little one, I’d imagine it to be even more fun and a little bit more crazy,” she laughs.

“Our most memorable holiday so far has been a trip Sameer and I took to London with Zeyad. It was just the 3 of us and we had an absolute ball. It was an all-out family vacation that revolved around Zeyad and only what he wanted to do. Each morning during breakfast, we’d ask him what he fancied doing that day and he’d take a pick. Whether it was a visit to the zoo, a run through the park or a trip to the museum, we spent our day exactly like he wanted us to.”

Maha is looking forward to the summer ahead. “Eid is always spent at home. We host a very big lunch for the whole family at our house. It’s a late affair, everyone starts rolling in around 2:30pm. It’s a very relaxed afternoon with the kids running around creating a ruckus and the adults just lounging around. Nothing like celebrating with family.”

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adiha Sultan Tai

The Lals journey began over a decade ago, and for the duo behind it, there has been no looking back ever since. The brainchild of Lal Majid, after whom the business is named, and her daughter Madiha Sultan Tai, Lals Patisserie epitomizes the bond between its partners. Its success is a combination of Madiha’s business acumen and her mother’s creativity and passion for cooking. Together, they make a great team.

elaborates, “I constantly struggle with saying no to certain work-related opportunities because inside, it makes me feel like I’m losing ambition. But I do also know, work isn’t my sole ambition. I love spending time with my husband Sohail and our children. At the end of the day, I am comfortable being who I am – someone who wants to expand business but at the same time take it slow, enjoy life and have free time too.”

Madiha breaks it down: “I believe my mother is one of the most inspiring people I know. She always gives me sage advice. And one of the best things she has ever recommended I do, was to start our own business. I am so glad I listened because I enjoy every moment of working with her. And when I see my children, Sofia and Mikael, with their grandmother, I can tell she is already inspiring them to live their passions.”

Comparing the Karachi she grew up in to the city that she is now raising her own children in, Madiha says, “I had a wonderful childhood. I grew up with lots of love, lots of family around. We were friends with our neighbours, we played on the street. We lived with abandon. Life was great. I can only hope my children have as wonderful a childhood as I did in this crazy new world.”

Successes, failures, triumphs and challenges; for Lal and Madiha, the last 10 years have been quite a mixed bag. “It’s been relatively easy at times, especially at the start when there wasn’t much at stake and we didn’t know what we were getting into.

However, 2017 has been exceptionally hard for us.

My mother had a triple bypass quite unexpectedly and that left me in charge for a few months. And just when she recovered, we had a massive fire at one of our cafés. It cost us heavily and took us a few months to rebuild and recover,” explains Madiha.

She continues, “But having witnessed really difficult periods convert into wonderful times, we’ve learnt to take each day as it comes. When my mother and I decided to go from solely being a chocolatier to a full-scale patisserie, we had no inkling about the magnitude of work that would be involved in making it all happen. But we had a dream. We wanted to sell freshly-made baked goods, serve hand-churned gelato and keep making chocolates – so we just kept on going, ploughing ahead, finding our bearings, figuring things out along the way. It was really tough but we had faith that everything would work out and it somehow did. We have a wonderful team who believed in us and things just worked out. And today we are all set to expand to Destination Next – Lahore,” she smiles.

For Madiha, drawing a perfect balance between her career and family is a work in progress. She 88

The Sultan Tais enjoy “lazy Sundays, just hanging around the house, doing nothing at all. We visit my in-laws for lunch, we go to my parents for tea and catch up. Sometimes we’ll take the children for a swim,” says Madiha. “For me personally, quality time is bonding with each one individually. Spending time with my daughter playing with Lego on a Saturday morning, or reading a book to my baby son before bed, or just sitting on the patio with Sohail once the children are asleep forcing him to listen to Atif Aslam,” she laughs.

What the family cherishes the most is taking trips together. “Nothing like getting away for a bit, together. I’m a travel fiend – I’ll do anything to get away. Many trips have been memorable. Vacations my husband and I took while we were still in high school will always make my top ten. Also, my trip to Budapest with a whole lot of friends to celebrate my brother’s wedding. It is definitely one of my all-time favourite trips. I just got back from beautiful Lake Como where we’d been invited to attend a friend’s wedding. The scenic views were simply breathtaking,” recalls Madiha, a self-proclaimed travel buff.

While holidaying with friends and family has its perks, Madiha also realizes the importance of taking the time out to focus on oneself. “I once went to the US for a month on a mentorship program organized

by Fortune. I spent a month shadowing Kathleen Vaughan who at the time was an executive with Wells Fargo.

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING She took me all over the US, talking business, introducing me to other business leaders and arranging meetings for me attend. This was before I had children and could take out the time. It was truly a lifechanging experience.”

With her children at school and Lals keeping her busy, Madiha is trying to find the time to plan her summer.

“Our plans for this Eid and the summer are totally up in the air. I’m really excited because for the very first time, we are working our vacation plans around Sofia and Mikael’s school schedules. It should be fun travelling with a 3-year-old and an almost 2-year-old! We will probably travel to some place beachy, maybe in Europe, for two weeks. I currently have an excel sheet up with names of resorts and the criteria that they are being rated for. My goal is to find a somewhat exotic resort with white sand and great diving facilities nearby. Entertainment at the hotel and a kids-club on premises are also imperative. And all this should not cost me an arm and a leg. Tall order I know, but fingers crossed!”

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ONE

ROAD

for the

By Zahra Hidayatullah

For a guy who rides a BMW F650 GS and is on a transcontinental biking trip across Europe and Asia, Marius Boncutiu is a man of a few words and a surprisingly unassuming disposition. Having started the journey from his native land, Romania, last year in June, the Transylvanian drove through ten countries before hitting the Wagah border. This is the story he recounts from Pakistan; a tale of unparalleled scenic beauty and the warm hospitality he encountered as he rode through the Karakoram Highway, one of the highest paved roads in the world, to see mythical lakes, fabled mountainous valleys and the confluence of three of the world’s greatest mountain ranges.

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his is Marius Boncutiu’s Pakistan story, and it’s incredible. It’s a story that must be told in its entirety. And it must be told as it happened. A few weeks ago, I was added to a WhatsApp group by one V., my brother’s Indian friend whom he has known since college for about twenty – five years now. My brother lives in Seattle and I have never met this friend! Since I am editor at this publication which is geared mainly towards travel, I was asked if I could help a Romanian friend of V.’s who is on a biking tour across Asia and is currently riding through India. It would be great if I could help him acquire a Pakistan visa thus enabling him to visit the fabled lands up north and see the confluence of three of the world’s greatest mountain ranges – the Karakoram, the Himalayas and the Hindu Kush.

The problem was I knew no one, absolutely no one, in the diplomatic circles. I put out a faint query on Facebook and received an equally weak response.

My only hope was asking Moin Khan, an adventure biker from Pakistan, whom I had met on two previous occasions for a feature. We added him to the group, and he after trying countless other avenues added another acquaintance, H., to the conversation. The interesting bit is, H. was someone Moin had met only once on a merry evening in the capital city; but as it turned out, he was someone with considerable contacts at ambassadorial levels.

H. asked his acquaintance, Pakistan’s ambassador to a third country, to intervene on Marius’ behalf. This said ambassador called up the High Commission in New Delhi and asked if there was any way Marius could secure a Pakistan visa through them. Marius was called in for an interview but, wait for this, on the day of the interview, a political catastrophe occurred that strained the already tense relations between the two neighbours and Marius’ visa request was, let’s just call it, collateral damage.

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Surprisingly, this did nothing to deter Marius from hoping to visit Pakistan. Believe it or not, the eternal optimist flew to his home country to find this green ticket and returned to India two days later, a victorious man! Thus, on the morning of April 27, Marius crossed over the great divide from Atari, India into Lahore, Pakistan and our little group was full of cheers.

“I had this vague recollection of seeing the Wagah border ceremony on a black and white TV as a child back home. The guards raising their legs and then furiously stomping their feet. When I crossed over, and they opened the gates for me, I was completely overwhelmed.”

A petroleum engineer in his previous life, 36-yearold Marius has been on the road for almost a year now. Having left home in June 2016, he “went from Romania to Moldavia, Transnistria, Ukraine, Belarus, all of Russia, Mongolia, back to Russia, all the way to Vladivostok, crossed over to Japan, spent about three months in Japan, went to South Korea for a while, then off to Sri Lanka, India, and now here I am in Pakistan.” This is his second international biking trip (the first one being a purely European tour) and ours is the eleventh country he is visiting.

As someone who was taking almost 200 flights a year (If you do the math, that’s a flight every 1.5 days/2 days!) for five long years, he is no stranger to the art of travel. It is little wonder then that Marius’ passport boasts of entry and exit stamps from an impressive list of 120 different countries around the world. However, those work trips were planned with surgical precision and there was no concept of exploring a place at his own leisure or “going left instead of right. So the whole point of this trip is to be absolutely free to change my schedule, change my route and to spend as much time as I want in any given place.”

and a completely separate ballgame to actually take the plunge. The chivalrous adventurer shares his secret. “There’s absolutely nothing special about me. I don’t have any superpowers. I am not stronger or brighter or anything so if I can do this, everyone else can too. The only question is, do you want it as much as I want it? That is what separates me from other people who only dream about this instead of actually doing it.”

The way he does it, there are no fixed rules and life happens as you go along. “I never pre-book any rooms or anything. I have my camping equipment so I just wing it. If I feel tired, I’ll stop earlier; if there’s still daylight and I’d like to go some more, I’ll go some more.” Really, it’s that simple? “Really! That’s how I do it,” he shrugs as if it’s no biggie.

“I don’t come into a country with a fixed agenda. I like to just leave myself in the hands of the local people. I ask questions like ‘What would you recommend me seeing in your country?’ because I think these people are the best tour guides possible. They’ll suggest and tell you about the road access to a certain place; if there are restrictions, if there are issues, if they think it’s worth seeing, or they would rather you go see some other place. That’s why I keep it flexible and tend to follow the recommendations of people I randomly meet on the street.”

With a dedicated Sat Nav on the bike and hard copies of printed maps of places he is at, Marius whimsically weaves his way across the globe.

‘Life’s too short. You gotta do it now, or you may never get the chance.’ There comes a time when you can’t postpone your dreams anymore.”

Marius had already completed his Pakistan leg of the journey before I met him and sat with him to get the complete lowdown. How does one just get up and go? And go how, where? Would it be safe? What about the economics of it all? How was Pakistan?

Did we treat him well? These were questions that were burning a hole in my brain. Occupational hazard!

Before he embarked on his magna adventum and rode off into the sunset, Marius had to call it quits at work, putting an abrupt end to his career. “It was scary as hell to quit my job. It seemed like I was sacrificing pretty much everything. I made a rough budget and took everything I had, hoping that it would be enough.” Was it some intrinsic need for selfdiscovery that led to this grand adventure? “Travelling is something I absolutely love doing. You know this maxim, ‘Life’s too short. You gotta do it now, or you may never get the chance.’ It’s true. There comes a time when you can’t postpone your dreams anymore.”

His dream, it seemed, was, “I always wanted to do a real, proper tour. Explore the world. And when I decided to do it, the bike just seemed like the most convenient way to go.” But it’s another thing to dream

In a land with rivers, mountains, deserts, plains, the ocean, diverse ecology and much history, one wondered what exactly he was hoping to see in Pakistan. “I wanted to explore the northern areas as far as I could. A friend and I put together a rough plan for my trip to go up all the way up to the Deosai plains via Rama and Astore and then from Deosai to go up to Skardu, onwards to Khaplu and then return on the Karakoram Highway. But due to snow conditions, I couldn’t go further from Astore and had to turn back. Deosai was under 10 feet of snow even in May! So I had to change gears, change the scheduled route, turned back on to the KKH and turned right, drove up north to the Chinese border at Khunjerab Pass and came back to Karimabad, went to Gilgit, Skardu, Shigar, Khaplu and then back to Islamabad via Chilas.”

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK By the end, this was his itinerary: ISLAMABAD > MURREE > NATHIAGALI > BESHAM > CHILAS > RAMA > KARIMABAD > PASSU > KHUNJERAB PASS > KARIMABAD > GILGIT > SKARDU (on the famous S1 road) > SHIGAR > KHAPLU > CHILAS > ISLAMABAD > LAHORE

Rakaposhi Mountain

For someone who has travelled across most of the world, it is certainly heartwarming to hear Marius’ impressions of the country. “I have no words to describe how amazing my Pakistan trip was! A combination of breathtaking sceneries and warm, welcoming people, it is most possibly the highlight of my trip so far. You have countless mountains over 7000m! Amazing valleys with raging rivers.

Charming sceneries. Super friendly and hospitable people. I don’t remember biking anywhere that would even come close to the sort of breathtaking views I’ve seen up north in Pakistan. Housing, accommodation, food, shelter, gas, all is widely available and accessible. I rode there on my own for nearly two weeks during which time I didn’t miss anyone and I didn’t call anyone because I just didn’t feel the need to.”

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“Every hour I spent in Northern Pakistan was a story in itself. Every person I met was a story, every place I have been to, I have stories to tell from there.”

Tell me some people stories, I egged him on. “I was going up from Dasu, after Besham, and there was a massive landslide. We got stuck for about 8-9 hours. Within 5 minutes of being stopped, it started to pour. I had zero cover. I was trying to stay upright with the helmet on so I didn’t get water behind my neck and through my jacket, hoping this too shall pass. That is when I realized some guy behind me in the truck was waving frantically at me, asking me to get into their cabin and take some shelter. I said hello and with signs, photos and maps, tried to explain to them what I was doing. They were super excited for me and shared with me whatever they had – some biscuits and a gum. I think they even offered me a melon which I politely refused because I couldn’t carry a melon on a bike! Amazing people.”

Besham

“That is also where I met a group of Lahore guys on small bikes, two guys on each bike with luggage and camping equipment and barbeque grills and rolled up mattresses. They were the funniest bunch with 150% enthusiasm and 1% knowledge. I loved them to bits. We pitched our tents side by side and camped on a volleyball field in Chilas. We cooked chicken karahi by the side of the road, which was my first meal in 48 hours. These guys had all the spices on them. I mean they had even brought along sheesha pipes! They had all these stuffed plastic bags and every time they hit a bump, their bags fell and I would stop, pick them up. At the end my bike looked like theirs, decorated in multi-coloured plastic until we parted ways.”

“Somewhere close to Rama Meadows, I stopped to see a friendly farmer ploughing his field. We shook hands and spoke in a bit of gymnastics. He and his folks were kind enough to offer me breakfast. They shared their food and their tea with me and it was super nice.”

The warmth and kindness of our people seemed to have won him over. “There’s hospitality and then there’s hospitality and then there’s Pakistan! Every single person I met up north became a friend in like 10 seconds. And this is absolutely true. I was in Skardu where I stopped at a random shop by the side of the road. I went in and picked up some snacks and drinks, but the guy did not charge me anything. He told me I was a guest and he would not take my money. The more I insisted, the more he refused.”

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Eagles Nest, Hunza

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Shigar, The Highest Desert in the World

Eagles Nest, Hunza

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The Gilgit-Skardu Road

The further he drove up north, the more he loved it. “After going further on from Chilas, I didn’t even bother to lock my bike and I left my stuff in the tent, my laptop in care of strangers when I had to charge it. Nobody is stealing anything over there.”

“I think the people up north are living life in a totally different rhythm. The sort of things that are important for them to be happy are super different from what we think we need in order to be happy.

The rhythm of our lives is so different from theirs that I think I would do well if I could end up with some of the simplicity and the honesty with which these people live their lives.”

Having heard his people stories, I was now curious about the topography and road access. Although the road structure up north is far improved from what it was until a few years ago, with most of the routes being carpeted with excellent asphalt and tarmac, nature dictates all curves and bends. One can only imagine what an adrenaline rush some of these routes must be for an adventure biker, “I feel really proud for successfully completing the GilgitSkardu road stretch. I’ve recently found out it’s one of the world’s top ten most dangerous roads.

There’s a lot of blind turns, and lots of traffic coming

fast and only one lane to accommodate all the vehicles. It’s so narrow that two cars can’t go side by side. You have tall mountains on your left, a 2.5 meters wide road and then a massive drop into the valley on your right. There’s always the chance of landslides, and no road shoulders to ward off oncoming traffic.”

Naturally, I asked him what his favourite part of the trip was. “I think it has to be from Hunza Valley to Attabad and then Passu. When I got to the Attabad Lake, it was more beautiful than I had imagined. I gave up on trying to take photos because the camera lens cannot do it justice. You have to come and see it with your own eyes. So I put my phone back in my pocket and just stood there to soak it all in.”

“In fact it was actually a picture of the Attabad Lake that started my whole fascination with the idea of coming to Pakistan. In reality, when you get to see it, it is twelve times better than what you see in photos. There is such a deep blue in that lake, it’s almost like somebody dumped paint in the water to make it look like that. And I think I was super lucky to have a clear day with blue skies and sunshine and it was awesome.”

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

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Attabad Lake

It was actually a picture of the Attabad Lake that started my whole fascination with the idea of coming to Pakistan.

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Was it easy to find accommodation at all these places, I asked him, a future vacation already taking shape in my head? “There’s so much hospitality here that you don’t need Airbnb. PTDC hotels are a good choice. They allow you to camp in their grounds if you bring a tent. So it is absolutely affordable. Most of them let you camp and use the facilities and the Wi-Fi. Some will not charge you anything, some will charge you something like US$7/8 a night to camp.”

“All throughout Pakistan I’ve either been camping it or staying with friends. I’ve got invitations almost every single day from everybody I have come across, sometimes even complete strangers. All the people I met on the road in every place offered to pay for my food, for my drinks, invited me to their homes. It is truly a wonderful feeling. I am grateful that I was able to come here and experience it all.”

How in the world did he manage to make that happen? “That cliché ‘smile and the world will smile back’ is a universal truth. With all humans, regardless of their origin, a smile is all it takes to start a conversation. The world is a really cool place and if you had seen the things I’ve seen and met the people I met, you would have new faith in humankind. People are generally nice. If you come in with an open heart, and an open mind, people respond the same way.”

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Camp in Karimabad

Baltit Fort

Khunjerab Pass

“I would say, you should not isolate yourself from people around you. And when you go somewhere, just let all shields down and talk to people, make new friends, be happy and you’ll never be alone. I’ve never been alone in Pakistan. Even though I biked alone, there was always somebody who could talk to me or share the ride for a small section of the journey. People kept in touch and met me again in different cities. The two brothers I met on the KKH invited me to their farm when I got back to Lahore.

It is in a small village called Mir Mohammed, where I got to see the local festival and enjoy their music and watched them play a few games of kabbadi.

The whole reason behind the trip is to actually get to meet new people from various countries.”

So what’s the plan now, I ask. “I am planning on going back to India to see a bit of their mountains, and then cross over into Nepal. The rough plan for now is that from Nepal, I will get to Kazakhstan and then I’ll tour all the Central Asian states – all the ‘stans. Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Armenia, Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania. Can’t promise if I get closer to Romania and I’ve still got some money in my account that I am not gonna do some sort of detour to the Balkan states.”

“But I plan to be in Romania before the first snowfall. Or until the money runs out. Whichever comes first. Once I go back home, I probably will have to start working again to make a living like everyone else. I would love to be able to do customized tourist packages for foreigners to properly explore Romania but at this stage, it’s just a dream.”

Before he exited the country, he messaged on our WhatsApp group inviting each one of us to his home saying, “you now have family in Romania, whatever is mine is yours.” It was a happy farewell.

In many ways, meeting Marius was like personifying Lennon’s Imagine. May this dreamer continue to live out his dreams so the world could live as one. Safe travels, Marius! Wishing you well on your journey beyond Pakistan. Meanwhile, the WhatsApp group lives on.

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A PAKISTANI

SUMMER IN LONDON

By Fifi Haroon

A bona fide London girl for the past 15 years, leading journalist and media producer Fifi Haroon catalogues some of her favourite places and activities from her adopted hometown and invites you to discover a more “quirky, tempting, seductive and occasionally hidden” London this summer. This is probably the London you may not have yet met – but will surely never forget!

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© B Bakery

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y grandmother, the erstwhile Lady Nusrat Haroon, who was never a giver of compliments, used to call the British capital “London sharif”. An apt description it would seem counting the hordes of the Pakistani elite who flock for pilgrimage to the city every summer.

The oft-visited city is so achingly familiar yet most of our creed fails to even scratch the surface of its growing diversity. Pakistanis from the rarefied environs of Defence and Bani Gala feel right at home in the equally exalted climes of Kensington and Chelsea, St John’s Wood (almost a rich Pakistani suburb of Lahore or Karachi it would seem) and the sprawling mansions of Hampstead; venturing out only occasionally to Mayfair’s Nobu for a little yellowtail tartare with caviar. The shopping haunts tend to be the Knightsbridge triumvirate of Harvey Nicks, Harrods and Sloane Street or the relative slumming of Marks and Sparks (mainly for knickers) and Selfridges on Oxford Street. Around July and August both are packed like a tin of Pakistani sardines. Any way you look there are uncles eying blondes, aunties eying the Chanel counters and young social butterflies eying a new-season Furla cross-body to ceremoniously place on the “bagstool” at Karachi’s Côte-Rôtie (which is almost always pronounced incorrectly by those fashionistas who frequent it).

But step out of your cocoons this summer to a wider London or even explore in depth the areas you are used to and you will find there are multiple rewards awaiting you. Having lived in London now for 15 years and being a dedicated Chelsea girl for 10 of them, I have sometimes sought out and at other times stumbled upon some of the most unusual ins and outs of my adopted hometown. This is not an exhaustive guide to London for that would require volumes; just a personal manifesto of the intriguing, the quirky, the tempting, the seductive and the occasionally hidden that will bring some sunshine into your summer in London even when it is pouring with rain.

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Enter Stage Right But let’s break you in gently and start you off with what I feel is the most original little theatre in all of London – the Royal Court in Sloane Square.

Behind its seemingly humdrum exterior there lies a powerhouse of creative thinking that supports some of the most challenging and thought-provoking new drama writing in the UK. Okay, that part of itself is not news. What is perhaps more of a secret is that on every Monday morning, briefly at 9 a.m. the Royal Court (Sloane Square tube) releases a catch of day tickets for £12. Grab them online and you will be seated at a performance later that evening for which others probably paid four times the price. That’s how I got to see a technically “sold out” performance of Oscar-winning director Sam Mendes’ play The Ferryman – on its opening night. Beg, borrow or steal to buy tickets to see it from late June till early October when the production moves to the Gielgud Theatre at the heftier price of £89.50 for the best seats in the house. With a 5-star rating from The Guardian, The Ferryman centers on gangland politics and familial machinations in Northern Ireland in the seventies (there is even a baby in the cast!). If you see only one piece of theatre in London this summer, this is the one to queue up for!

© Helen Murray

A scene from Oscar-winning director Sam Mendes’ play The Ferryman.

All photos courtesy the Royal Court Theatre. © Johan Persson

Laura Donnelly (Caitlin Carney) and Paddy Considine (Quinn Carney) © Johan Persson

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Photo Finish While in Chelsea do pause at the grand entrance of the Saatchi Gallery on King’s Road which is a splendid 70,000 sq. ft. space occupying the former Duke of York HQ building. The gallery focuses heavily on contemporary world artists and often has Pakistani art on display (the Humas – both Mulji and Bhabha – have featured prominently in past exhibitions). This summer, till 23rd July the Saatchi is holding a brilliantly curated show called Selfies and Self-Expression revolving around the traditional and modern edification of the self-portrait – both painted and photographed! From Velasquez via Van Gogh and Frida Kahlo to modern – day celebrity selfies such as President Barack Obama taking his first selfie to Benedict Cumberbatch photo bombing U2 at the Oscars – the collection takes an imaginative and awe-inspiring look at the ego and the image that will make you look anew at your own mirror or mobile phone. Additionally, there are some amazing selfies from ordinary people who sent in their entries for a competition. Entry is free.

Guest viewing Huma Mulji’s Arabian Delight at the Saatchi Gallery Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London © Stephen White

Finnian Croy Glasgow, United Kingdom © Finnian Croy 2017 Barack Obama selfie with Danish Prime Minister Courtesy ROBERTO SCHMIDT/AFP/Getty Images

George Harrison Taj Mahal Self Portrait © Harrison Family

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Felicia Hodoroabă-Simion Romania Walk with Myself in the Park © Felicia Hodoroabă-Simion 2017

Love in the City Afterward, stroll down a small side lane called Christchurch Street to find yourself in front of the sweet little abode that Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh lived in while married. Durham Cottage, which was quite neglected over the years, sold a few years ago for a miserly £6.8 million. Unfortunately you can’t go inside but it is certainly a place where film buffs can pay homage. While the cottage chronicles the couple’s romance it also sadly stands witness to its end. Olivier was sitting on the porch in 1949 when Leigh told him: “I don’t love you anymore.” He was devastated and later wrote: “I felt as if I had been told I had been condemned to death.”

A less dwindling love can be found in Hampstead at the poet John Keats’ house, which also hosts poetry readings, workshops and guided walks. You can even see a display on Keats’ sweetheart, Fanny Brawne, who lived next door. The couple’s intense romance was immortalized in the film Bright Star (2009), directed by Jane Campion, and some of the costumes worn by the actors are on display.

Committed literary buffs can also walk around the garden to see the pretty spot where the poet composed the legendary Ode to a Nightingale.

Portraits of poet Keats and Fanny Brawne © huffingtonpost.co.uk

Keats House © catchupwithamate.com

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Food for Thought London is a food market haven. I would heartily recommend the one in Chelsea which is on every Saturday in Duke of York Square so you can easily couple it with a visit to the Saatchi. Here you can buy perfectly formed artisan sourdough and the finest Sicilian cannoli desserts to take home. Feeling hungrier and want instant gratification? Opt for the robust confit duck sandwich for a mere £7 from the Partridges stall. Top it up with plum sauce, English mustard and rocket leaves which superbly complement the crispiness of the duck. Or if you’re in the mood for something fishy you can gulp down fresh oysters that taste of the ocean. Sit by on one of the stone benches with your plate and listen to street buskers playing some Spanish flamenco.

More of a London neighbourhood experience can be found at Brixton Village and Market Row (Brixton tube) which consist of two arcades bustling with small dhaba type restaurants serving up food from all over the world. Tucked in between the food stalls are curiosity shops that sell an eclectic array of art, bohemian togs and more. The village market is open from 8 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. every day except Monday when they close earlier at 6 p.m.

Sicilian Cannoli at Chelsea Market © Fifi Haroon

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I took my friend, the director Saqib Malik with me there and we (over) ate at about four different places and ended up buying his brother Adnan Malik’s birthday present from a small art shop. Try the chicken wings at Mama Lang, okonomiyaki (Japanese savoury pancake popular on Osaka’s streets) at Okan, truffle pizza at Made of Dough and if yearning for something closer to home, there’s the homemade style Pakistani lamb keema thali served up by chef Imran Bashir at the Elephant Café.

Also in Brixton is the Clink restaurant which unbelievably is set inside a prison! Inmates cook and serve up fine dining grilled megrim sole with coriander salsa and lemon oil or a salted caramel brûlée with vanilla and raspberry shortbread.

Don’t worry, you won’t be eating behind bars; the restaurant is part of a trainee scheme which has managed to cut re-offending down by 41 percent and find jobs for those with a record.

And as if that wasn’t a quirky enough setting, how about a meal in a converted public toilet? Yes, descend into a subterranean bar that once provided relief rather than sustenance to Londoners. Several old lavatories are now quite the rage as wining and dining spots – but I would readily recommend the cleverly titled WC (which also stands for Wine and Charcuterie) in Clapham as my personal favourite. Book a toilet booth for around 8 people and gossip over baked camembert with rosemary sprigs accompanied by beverages of a more heady variety. You won’t find any rude graffiti on the stall wall but the old tiles still are still intact. And yes they have a separate toilet!

Elephant Café © Elephant Brixton

WC All photos © Jayke Mangion

Rounding off my suggestions for unusual eateries is Dans Le Noir (Farringdon tube) which literally means “in the dark.” And that precisely is what it is.

A restaurant where the entire meal is eaten in the dark and your waiters are blind. Once you set the parameters the entire meal is a surprise. Entrees on the meat menu have included kangaroo and ostrich so if you’re not one for unusual meats that wouldn’t be the one to go for.

New Kids on the Block If you don’t want to be kept in the dark, how about a look at the 14 new Bib Gourmand restaurants in London? These accolades are given to less formal, less expensive restaurants by the gourmet powerhouse of Michelin. Try the Jerusalem street fare at The Barbary in Covent Garden or my personal favourite, Hoppers in Soho, which serves up simple but nuanced Sri Lankan food. And while it hasn’t got a Bib Gourmand yet (probably because it’s just opened), Kricket (also in Soho) does Mumbai small plates sometimes with a British twist – including delicious Samphire pakoras. Also try their inventive moon-like kulchas (with bone barrow and cep) that are made freshly for you by the Nepali chef running the tandoor oven.

Needless to say, the Chiltern Firehouse with Nuno Mendes as chef continues to be one of the most difficult restaurants in which to get a booking. You may have to flaunt your celebrity associations to get some attention – and no, telling them you dated Hamza Ali Abbasi at some point will not do!

Kricket © Fifi Haroon

Hoppers © innerplace.co.uk

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Not-so-Dirty Dancing After all that food, you’re going to need to work off the extra calories. And Boy George and Fatboy Slim do it. Even Basement Jaxx has played a set at one of them.

Welcome to the very dry, morning rave. At 6 or 7 a.m. be prepared to dance yourself silly with 800 other clubbers kitted out in spangles and fluorescent gear. This is a nightclub for breakfast raving. The most popular are probably arranged by Morning Gloryville at new and unusual places. They have even held one at the top of the tallest building in London, that rather sexy glass cone known as The Shard.

So forget about partying all night. Now it’s all about partying all morning!

© AlistairVeryard.com

© M Sethi All photos courtesy Morning Gloryville

© AlistairVeryard.com

© Alice Peperelll

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© Alice Peperelll

Framing London And if clubbing – at any hour of night or day – isn’t quite your thing how about a film at one of London’s extraordinary cinemas? Both the Everyman (Hampstead) and the Electric (Notting Hill) offer waiter service and have plush armchairs, the latter even has velvet divans (or beds if you want to be indelicate) for a more romantic evening. The Prince Charles Cinema in Leicester Square does singalong nights – the Rocky Horror Picture Show, Dirty Dancing, Frozen and Grease being amongst the most popular choices.

Looking to join in even more? Secret Cinema creates immersive 360 degrees participative cinema events at hidden locations. Lawrence of Arabia for example had sword wielding horsemen, belly dancers and a recreated souk while Wings of Desire had trapeze artists. And you will have to dress up to suit the film and be open-minded about “experiencing” the narrative both on screen and for real!

But for a night under the stars while watching the stars there is nothing quite like Film4 at Somerset House. This is one of London’s most iconic and beautiful buildings and the screenings are done in the stunning courtyard. This summer they’re showing 14 films including the Oscar-winning Moonlight and classics like The Philadelphia Story. Al Gore is presenting An Inconvenient Sequel: Truth to Power on opening night. Before each film DJs play film-inspired sets, and you can pick up a picnic hamper from Tom’s Kitchen, one of the food stalls.

Remember to take along cushions, backrests and blankets.

Keep Calm and have a Cuppa You really can’t leave London without sitting down for a “propah” afternoon tea complete with finger sandwiches and scones. The English afternoon tea tradition is an art form and you can find it at its traditional best at The Ritz or The Goring. But why go trad when you can go rad? Discover the whacky eye candy of a Mad Hatter’s tea party at the Sanderson Hotel or try the ultimate beauty focused Bobbi Brown afternoon tea at the glorious Balthazar which is part of the cosmetic firm’s 25 year anniversary celebrations.

If you are looking for international inspiration and ethnic charm, the Japanese afternoon tea at Sosharu or Momo’s Morrocan version with date scones and chocolate harissa mousse might appeal.

Want something a little less sophisticated that the kids might enjoy? B Bakery does tea parties on a London bus which takes you around the city with cakes, sandwiches and more to feed your fancy!

Or feel on top of the world with tea at the Aqua Shard while you survey the gorgeous London skyline.

© B Bakery

rt at Somerset House

The Edmond J. Safra Fountain Cou © Gideon Mendel

Film4 Summer Screen at Somerset House © Peter Macdiarmid All photos courtesy SH Press Office

© Aqua Shard

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London Getaway However much you love the social side of London, at the end of it all you may just want to get away from it all. Indulge that impulse in Richmond Park in Zone 4 where wild deer roam free. Or 15 miles from central London you can find the Mayfield Lavender Farm in the North Surrey Downs. Feeling spritely? You can walk through the lavender fields or even rent a tractor to drive around! Who needs Provence?!

Richmond Park

Mayfield Lavender Farm Š Bruised passports

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We would like to thank the Saatchi Gallery, Somerset House, the Royal Court Theatre, W.C, Morning Gloryville, Aqua Shard, Elephant Cafe Brixton and Fifi Haroon for use of their photographs.

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The Sorbonne

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Memories

SEPIA

in

By Mehvash Amin

Journalist, writer and more recently publisher, Mehvash Amin reflects on both outward and inward journeys she has taken through the various stages in her life. In this personal memoir, she chronicles the time she spent as a scholar student in Paris where she discovered new things she loved eating, reading and doing; and where she learnt how to think, write and dream in French.

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love journeys. My career has also been one – always a writer, I worked in the suburbs of my true passion as an editor (Libas, Hello!Pakistan, T.Edit) while continuing to write and publish in my spare time. In 2017, though, I decided to journey further into the territory that I had always wanted when I started a publishing house, Broken Leg Publishing, and took out The Aleph Review, a yearly anthology of creative writing and art.

As a lover of both travel and literature, I have often felt how outward journeys into space and inward journeys into books can affect a person’s outlook. They send baby tentacles, new-born ideas, into one’s soul that incubate and mature with time. At least, all significant journeys and books do that.

I had to stay in a scrummy temporary hostel housing both boys and girls where one was locked out at nine and could only access one’s things at six, when the doors opened again. All the while, I looked for lodgings near the oldest street in Paris, La Rue Mouffetard, learned to enjoy eating ‘lapin’, rabbit, which made its appearance in the various university restaurant menus (where one doled out one carnet, or token, worth four francs, for a pretty decent threecourse meal), rubbed shoulders with students from all over the world and tore between various campuses to register for my preferred subjects with my new best friend, a Yugoslav called Vera Kneciviz.

Did I change? How could I not, with the heady freedom of living a student life in the most beautiful city in the world (they say only millionaires and students can afford to live in Paris), of meeting new people (one of whom, a Greek, lived with her boyfriend in a white flat where there were pictures of her sitting nude alongside her fully clothed grandma), of learning to use a unisex bathroom, of having to give presentations in French, of staying up as late as I wanted on weekends at the flat of a newly married friend from back home who is still my best friend, then walking home, laughing and singing, the next evening in a posse that included an Indian in a sari amidst other Pakistanis from back home?

Did I change?

How could I not, with the heady freedom of living a student life in the most beautiful city in the world.

One such journey was when I received a French Government scholarship to study at the Sorbonne, Paris, for my Licence es Lettres – Modern Letters. It was just after the interregnum in studies that occurred when the movement against Bhutto had grown strong enough for the government to shut down schools and colleges. That was a time when the out-andout capitalism of the West was at least contested by an alternative philosophy, socialism, with Che Guevera as its handsome poster boy.

I was a sheltered young girl at a time when most girls did not sally forth into the larger world for education. Also, I was not just going to another place but into a different ethos birthed by a different language, French. The Anglo-Saxon world of English and American authors and ideas was left behind as I entered a largely unfamiliar construct where people talked differently, thought differently, ate differently, even cursed differently.

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The books I was reading changed me too, with Proust, Ronsard and Gerard de Nerval supplanting Dickens and Auden and Graham Greene. This was the year the Russians invaded Afghanistan, the year that JeanPaul Sartre died. I ingested it all through my new French prism. So much so that I started dreaming in French, writing poetry in French...

I learnt to use the bank, pretty efficiently too. I found a very decent room at the Foyer Concordia that overlooked a romantic French restaurant, Chez Lena et Mimile, and watched smart people dine there while I slopped out veggies from a can in the communal kitchen and Antonio y Antonio, two Brazilians, stirred up something else. One Antonio was blond and wore a black cape and boots, while the other was dark-haired and less flamboyant, but both were achingly good-looking.

I burnt my tinned food many times.

I have made numerous trips to Paris times since, but two summers ago I went looking for Concordia, in the Latin Quarter, very near the Pantheon and not too far away from Notre Dame.

I knew it was near the spot where Pierre and Marie Curie had discovered radium. I asked old-timers serving at the tourist traps; my brother, who was with me, found the Curie spot but we couldn’t find the place where I had lived for a year. Hauntingly, we would end up at the Pantheon again and again, a stone’s throw away from Concordia. On the verge of giving up, I told my brother to look up the restaurant, pretty sure that it would have disappeared from the map many years back. But it was there! And it looked exactly the same.

We sat and had our evening meal there, while I looked hungrily at the window from where I had stared at the smart diners three decades ago. I thought of the ghosts of friendships pasts.

I thought of my professors and my treks to the Centre George Pompidou, whose futuristic library I preferred to the classic Sorbonne one.

And I thought of the day I was leaving Paris, so moved that I cried all the way to the airport. The year of living in Paris had changed me profoundly, and the changes still hang on, like obstinate barnacles that leech on to a sailing ship, to this day. Thank God for that.

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REFLECTIONS

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DESTINATIONS DIARY

Outside Louvre

7

Nights in

Paris

By Sidra Haque

This is the diary of Sidra Haque’s first visit to Paris. The travel enthusiast lists the things she sees, does and eats in her exciting week there. Let it serve as a useful guide with pro-tips, expense details, and insider views on what you need to know about Paris’ must-see sights for your summer trip there.

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DESTINATIONS DIARY

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DAY

The first morning, armed with an itinerary I had drafted back home, I woke fresh and ready to take on Paris. I went downstairs from my third-storey flat to meet the owner, Nicolas, whom I hit it off with immediately and who offered to take me to the nearest metro station and help me manoeuvre my way around it.

Stay at the Blue Marble Travel, 2 Rue Dussoubs, $70 a night through AirBnB; rates may vary depending on the season

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The Paris metro is convenient, cheap and the best way to get around the city, else be ready for high taxi fares and annoying traffic jams. You can purchase a carnet, 10 tickets, for €14.5, and each ticket means you can travel anywhere up the metro line, or even use on buses and tramways.

You might have to switch stations to reach your final destination, but that’s when your ticket stub comes handy: one ticket can be reused again for immediately switching stations.

Travel through the Paris Metro: 10 tickets (a carnet): €14.5

he first thing that hits you on your first evening in the City of Love is how the mismatched cobblestones of the streets glimmer under the dull, orange streetlamps. The next thing you realize is how utterly in love everyone around you looks. These were the thoughts tumbling through my head as I strolled through the Le Marais district, at what would be considered a socially unacceptable hour back home.

Having taken a taxi from Charles de Gaulle all the way to my quaint little Airbnb flat in the heart of the artsy Le Marais district, I had deposited my luggage in the pocket-sized room, figured out the WiFi password and proceeded to sob to my husband over a voice call, claiming that I might have made a big mistake. You see, I was travelling solo from Islamabad, and the husband – who had official work in Paris – would be joining me later.

Well that had seemed dandy when I was mapping travel plans back home, until now.

Ten minutes later, I grabbed my jacket and pulled out my trusty Google Maps app, and thought to myself, it’s now or never. I was in Paris, and this city demanded all the adoration and awe one could muster.

By the end of my trip, I looked so at home, I would be stopped in the streets twice by locals asking for directions.

The street to our flat

My first day, and I had aligned myself in the direction of the River Seine: the famous river that divides Paris into two, and runs like a main artery of the city.

You never quite forget your firsts, and the first sight of the River Seine is something that stays with you. With historical bridges dotted along the Seine, there are cobblestoned walkways alongside the water, and you can just imagine the locals thronging about for picnics and sun tans in spring.

My first stop for the day was Sainte-Chapelle, which is considered to be the finest royal chapel built in all of France. It once housed a collection of prized relics, including the Crown of Thorns, but nowadays tourists flock here for the concert of visuals that is the collection of stained glass windows. Grab a pamphlet on your way in and cruise through the lower chapel, but the real magic lies upstairs. The enormous windows depict entire scenes spanning the Bible, and you will easily spend up to an hour taking in the richness of the interior.

Sainte-Chapelle: Open every day, 9:00 to 19:00, Entry fee: â‚Ź10, Estimated visit: 1 hour

Stained Glass at Sainte-Chapelle

A short walk away, I had found myself at Rue de la Huchette which houses a number of restaurants that serve cheap, on-the-go food. This is one of the oldest streets of the Latin Quarter, and a doner kebab later, I made my way to something on my bucket list: the famous Shakespeare and Company.

The bookstore contains new and old books, and has a free reading library where you can while away your time. I perused the Paris section in true tourist spirit, and after picking up a few books, made my way to the counter manned by a witty Brit, who was probably working at the bookstore in exchange for free boarding, which is till today the tradition of Shakespeare and Company.

My first look at Seine

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2

DAY

The next day started with a brisk walk to the legendary L’éclair de Genie to order their bestsellers. Some salted caramel éclairs later, I boarded the metro to the day’s first stop: Musee d’Orsay. The beautiful museum was once a railway station, and the large clock towering above the building is a reminder. It now houses a staggering collection of Impressionist art, and being able to finally see a Van Gogh in person or your first Rodin sculpture is the sort of special moment you can barely describe. The Musee d’Orsay is a reasonable size, but would require half a day for hardcore enthusiasts. There’s a quaint little café in the museum where you can have a cookie, a cappuccino and study the thronging crowds.

Musee d’Orsay: Closed on Mondays, 9:30 to 18:00, Entry fee: €12, Estimated visit: 3 hours

Outside Notre Dame

Continuing my way through the Latin Quarter, and there’s plenty of distance spirit will take you, I wandered to the gates of the Notre Dame, which is a masterpiece of architecture, and the very heart of Paris. This is one building that is more beautiful outside than in. You can spend hours strolling around the periphery, admiring the ornate carvings and art scrapped out of stone. The inside of the cathedral is a memorable experience: I was lucky enough to catch Mass, while traipsing alongside the art pieces, religious sculptures, organs and bells – all washed in centuries of history and context.

Notre Dame Cathedral: Open every day, 7:45 to 18:45, Entry fee: No, Observation deck: fee €12, Estimated visit: 1 – 2 hours I strolled onwards to the Pont Saint-Louis, which connects two islands on the Left Bank, and is a hotspot for local performers. I was lucky enough to be serenaded by an accordion player and get a few fabulous shots of River Seine. I made it back to my flat before sunset, zig-zagging through Le Marais, thankful that my tights and Toms were the perfect gear for the day’s wear and tear. I would only venture out again later that night – now confident to find my way around – to the local pizza joint that would become a favourite in days to come.

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Musée d’Orsay

Making my way out d’Orsay, I headed towards the next destination I was going to for one reason alone: Musee de l’Orangerie for Monet. Crossing over the Seine, I politely declined the signing of a petition – and be wary since scammers demand money afterwards – heading towards tree-lined Jardin des Tuileries. What I immediately loved about this city was just how pedestrian-friendly it was, and how the only way to really see it was by walking.

Musee de l’Orangerie was a sweet and simple trip. There were large halls curved to display Claude Monet’s Nympheas (Water Lilies) in its full glory, and I could have sworn the colours of the painting were changing before my eyes. I was in for another surprise: the iconic American Gothic was temporarily exhibiting in the museum as well, and I got to see it up close!

Musee de l’Orangerie: Closed on Tuesdays, 9:00 to 18:00, Entry fee: €9, Estimated visit: <1 hour

Monet’s Water Lilies at l’Orangerie

Musée de l’Orangerie from the bridge

After gathering mementos to take home from the souvenir shop, I strolled leisurely through Tuileries amongst the sprinters.

The husband was landing in a few hours, and after a quick rest I was off through the streets of Le Marais, taking in the old school charm of the lanes. At Le BHV Marais, one of the largest and oldest shopping malls, I came out with a quintessential Longchamp Le Pliage in tow, and dropped by the legendary L’As du Fallafel with a welcome token for the husband.

The walk back to the flat had me done for the day.

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Outside the Louvre

3

DAY

I was dropped off by the husband at the first destination of the day: Musee de Louvre. This is considered the world’s greatest art museum and is home to an unparalleled range of art. Making my way inside the glass pyramids, I had to catch my breath: the Louvre is humungous, to put it lightly.

The light filtered in softly for me to find my way to the nearest museum map and off I went. I was able to cover the Islamic Art Exhibit, Greek Antiquities and Italian and Spanish Paintings. While Mona Lisa was super underwhelming, I was fascinated by Veronese’s Les Noches da Cana on the opposite wall. I spent hours peering at the paintings and stopping at favourites, taking in the monumental detail and history captured in the works. This place is truly out of this world and makes you want to linger just a bit longer. With a rumbling stomach, I headed to Paul’s downstairs, grabbed a pizza baguette, before making my way out to gaze at the equally rich exterior.

Musee de Louvre: Closed on Tuesdays, 9:00 to 18:00, Entry fee: €15, Estimated visit: 3-6 hours

Jardin de Tuilerries

The Louvre leads to a particularly beautiful entrance of the Jardin de Tuileries. In the prime of fall, the Jardin looks a canvas out of a French Renaissance painting, with its ochre, burnt orange and red hues. The tree-lined paths lead to quiet spots where you can sit on a bench and ponder upon a pond. If you line up by the main pond and look in the direction of Champs Elysees, there’s a beautiful view of the ferris wheel that just makes you want to trudge onwards.

The Place de la Concorde, the city’s biggest public square, has a bit of history sprawled all over. Once the execution site of Louis XVI, it is now famous for an obelisk gifted by Egypt.

Strolling my way to Champs Elysees, the famous avenue is an hour’s walk from one end to another, with plenty of time for you to get distracted at cafés, restaurants and shops in between. Later that night, I would walk into my first French pharmacy (look for the green plus sign) and stock up on skincare products, a must-do when you’re in town.

Place de la Concorde

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4

DAY

The day started with Musee Rodin: a quaint little museum nestled in an 18th century hotel. It has an impressive collection of the French sculptor’s work – but the climax of your visit will be the lounging gardens that feature Rodin’s sculptures, including his magnum opus, The Gates of Hell.

Musee Rodin: Closed on Mondays, 10:00 to 17:45, Entry fee: €10, Estimated visit: 1.5 hours

Musée Rodin

Exiting the gardens of the museum, I peered up at Dome Les Invalides, Napoleon’s final resting spot, but resisted the urge. I made my way to Pont Alexandre III, one of the most beautiful and aweinspiring bridges in Paris. The beauty of this bridge was more than I had bargained for and was well worth the day’s quota of walking.

A metro ride later, I had arrived outside Palais Garnier. This is the largest opera hall in the city, and, I want to be conservative when I say this, but the inside of Palais Garnier was one of the most beautiful things my eyes have feasted on: from the gold-gilded grand foyer, to the antiquated archways, to the rich maroon and gold of the actual opera hall. This is where royalty came to be entertained and boy, was it royal. I loved my visit so much, I would return again with the husband just to show it off.

Next stop was Galeries Lafayette, to satisfy my consumerist soul. This is a place you can spend hours at, so be careful. The food court on the top floor serves top-notch cuisines, and is a must-visit for the food alone. My interest lay in the designer shoe section on the lowest floor, but selection is sparse, and don’t forget to pick up your VAT refund certificate on purchases above €175 on your way out. Another must-do before you exit, a quick stop at the Pierre Hermes counter where the friendly staff will help you select macaroons. From flavours like liver pate to raspberry sorbet, they have it all.

Later that night the mister and I headed out to the must-do in Paris I had left pending: a quick jaunt around the Arc de Triomphe, Trocadero and eventually the Eiffel Tower, for hot crepes and coffee. We didn’t go up the tower since we wanted to save something to come back for. That, and the aching cold.

The Grand Foyer of Palais Garnier Inside Galeries Lafayette

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Sacré Coeur

View atop Sacré Coeur

5

DAY

The husband had a day off, so we headed up to Montmartre to savour the other side of Paris.

Our first destination was the Sacre Coeur, which is a 19th century basilica that sits on top of the arrondissement. We forsook the funicular for the stairs and our encounter with the String Men left a nasty taste in our mouths. These are groups of scammers who will grab your hand, forcefully tie a string, and demand payment. However, the views from the top quickly compensated. We entered the chapel and experienced Mass as we studied the holy art and paintings around us.

Sacre Coeur: Open all day, 6:00 to 22:30, Entry fee: no, Estimated time: 1 – 2 hours

The Amélie trail

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After the chapel, we left for the nearby artists’ square, the Place du Terte, to collect a few watercolour paintings and postcards for home. We then proceeded towards the graffiti-ed streets and turns to the Amélie trail: a short trail of all the major locations featured in the dearly beloved Jean-Pierre Jeunet film, Amélie, from the grocery store owned

by Mr Collignon, to Amélie’s flat and Café des Deux Moulins, ending at the Moulin Rouge. We had time to stop at the Le Mur des Je t’aime – the wall of love – which has the words ‘I love you’ scribbled in all languages. The husband wasn’t convinced until he spotted it in his native Pashto and demanded a picture!

Our next stops for the day included another lunch at Galeries Lafayette, and giving the husband a tour of Palais Garnier, the Louvre and the Jardin de Tuileries.

Later that night, we would head to Rue Montorgueil as per usual, as we sampled our way through the amazing restaurants on the crowded street.

Crypt at the Panthéon

6

DAY

On my last day of the trip, I headed to the Pantheon with mixed feelings. The days had passed by in a flurry, and I still had so much to see. The grand Pantheon welcomes you inside with masterpieces of art, but underneath lies its crypt: the final resting spot of some of the most brilliant minds of France; from Voltaire and Rousseau to Marie Curie. There is an eerie silence which is encouraged by the crypt keepers that makes you feel short of breath as you manoeuvre through the maze of tombs.

Pantheon: Open Daily, 10:00 to 18:00, Entry fee: €7, Estimated time: 2 hours Thankful to be let out, I headed to the nearby Le Jardin du Luxembourg, to lounge away the tiredness of the days, and see the striking Senate building.

Chairs were strewn about, but quickly occupied by locals out on their lunch break. My last stop on the itinerary was a quick visit to Café de Flore for a cup of coffee, and a walk around the Saint Germaine shopping streets.

The next morning we packed our things in the matchbox flat, and thanked our wonderful host.

With heavier hearts, we strolled our last hour in the beautiful city we knew we’d be coming back to again.

Café de Flore

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WANDERER

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Journey THROUGH TIME A

Walk in the footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia, float in the healing waters of the Dead Sea or go back in time to the pre-historic city of Petra â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Safinah and Danish Elahi discover that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no shortage of adventures awaiting one in Jordan.

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Amman

Dead Sea

Petra

Wadi Rum Aqaba

here’s a reason why Jordan has served as the backdrop for many a Hollywood blockbuster – from Lawrence of Arabia and Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade to more recently, The Martian. Perhaps no other country in the world presents such a fascinating array of natural and man-made sights, be it the spectacular desert of Wadi Rum, the archaeological marvel that is the city of Petra or the healing waters of the Dead Sea. Add to that the bustling metropolitan capital, Amman, that provides a charming mix of modernity and tradition, exotic cuisine and legendary Arab hospitality and you have a holiday destination that is a real winner, as Safinah and Danish Elahi discovered on a recent trip. Here, the couple shares their tips on travelling to the country.

Why Jordan:

Best time of the year to visit:

Jordon is a 2 hour 45 minute flight from Dubai, which makes it the perfect long weekend getaway.

It has tremendous historic significance and is a great tourist spot for all who wish to visit. It’s home to Petra, one of the New Wonders of the World.

We travelled mid-May, which was the tail end of the tourist season and still pretty good weather.

Nights can be a bit chilly in the desert and within Amman, but the days were sunny. The weather was perfect for snorkelling. The best time to visit Jordan is between February and May.

First impressions: Our first impression of the country was that it was decidedly Arab, with a splash of modernity. There were mosques and cathedrals side by side; people were in western attire as well as Islamic. Jordanians are hospitable and hard-working people; they will fondly refer to the West Bank as Palestine yet they have good relations with their neighbour Israel as well. We’ve visited the UAE and Egypt but Jordon is unique in its own way. Nature plays an important role in lending the country its distinct appeal.

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Top places to visit:

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Amman: Amman is a metropolitan that is spread across hills. It’s a thriving modern city with some interesting cafés, malls and art galleries yet it retains an old city feel, given its various ancient relics, such as The Citadel and the Roman Theatre that was built originally in the 2nd century BC. The downtown souvenir market and Rainbow Street, along with a couple of good malls, are the places to hit if you’re looking to pick up some goodies.

Temple of Hercules, Amman

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Aqaba: Aqaba has a rich history and is home to the world’s oldest church but the city, which is Jordan’s gateway to the famed Red Sea, is known mainly for its water sports activities such snorkelling and scuba diving. Equipment can be easily rented.

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The Dead Sea: People from all parts of the world come to the Dead Sea for several interests, whether it is just to take a dip in the majestic waters, or to benefit from the mud that cures all sorts of skin diseases, or to relax in one of the many top-of-the-line resorts built to favour travellers. The Dead Sea is famous for its products enriched with minerals, such as scrubs, shampoos, bath salts, anti-aging creams etc. It was pretty cool to swim and use the body mud mask available at the beach.

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WANDERER

Wadi Rum

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Wadi Rum: Wadi Rum, or the Valley of the Moon, is a spectacular desert valley with dramatic rock formations and possibly the clearest skies in the world. Tents set up in the middle of the desert provide a true Bedouinlike experience, taking one back to ancient times when caravans plied through the valley trading spices and other goods. The tents are very comfortable with basic amenities and for dinner, we were served lamb that had been cooked under the sand for more than 4 hours. It was melt-in-your-mouth tender!

5 Wadi Rum

Petra: Petra is an ancient city carved into red desert cliffs. It is believed to have been established as early as 312 BC by nomadic Arabs known as the Nabataeans. Petra is still only 17% excavated and yet it is magnificent in its expanse. The structures are brilliant, the techniques are intelligent and there are remnants of multiple communities who seem to have resided there. Some religious symbols are found, which confirm that Petra was the capital of its civilization at several points in time through history. A must-see for all visiting Jordan.

Petra

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Nabataen Temple , Petra

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WANDERER Where to stay: The Four Seasons in Amman – a lovely hotel with an excellent breakfast, friendly staff and good location.

Sun City Camp at Wadi Rum – for an unforgettable night under the stars.

Kempinski Ishtar Hotel on the Dead Sea – with multiple pools including an infinity pool and a private beach with mud mask facilities free of cost, it is highly recommended.

The Four Seasons

Sun City Camp

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Kempinski Ishtar Hotel

Top things to do:

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Snorkelling in the Red Sea The Red Sea is famed to have unparalleled underwater sights, with crystal clear blue waters, stunning corals and gorgeous fish.

Desert Safari at Wadi Rum Just before sunrise, we hopped onto 4x4 jeeps and drove across the desert to the Sunrise Viewing Point on top of a sand dune next to Rakhabat Canyon. Watching the sun rise over the horizon here is perhaps one of the most beautiful sights in the world. The safari traces the footsteps of the indefatigable TE Lawrence, who stayed here in 1917; stops include the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, the Nabataen Temple and the Lawrence House. Another highlight of the safari was pretending to be Matt Damon in The Martian (which was filmed here) and taking his spot on the rocks overlooking the region!

We actually got very lucky on our ride because our Bedouin guide let my husband Danish drive the jeep across the sand dunes, which was a great adventure. We also used the opportunity to take really artsy photos of the Traveller Bag that we produce and sell through our e-Commerce platform http://www.buckleandseam.com

The Traveller Bag

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Sampling local delicacies You can’t leave Jordan without trying out Hashem’s for falafel and Habiba for baklava (Arab fried dessert).

Shopping for souvenirs The best souvenir shops are in downtown Amman. From lamps to jewellery, Dead Sea beauty products to textiles and ceramics, you name it and they have it. The most interesting souvenir we bought back was an ostrich egg, with a verse from the Holy Quran painted on it.

It’s absolutely gorgeous.

Travel

Floating in the Dead Sea It’s really quite miraculous, as given the water’s natural buoyancy due to the high salt content of the sea, one just floats naturally here. And once you step out, your skins feels as soft as a baby’s!

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Tips

Travel light, don’t forget your sunblock and good walking shoes if you plan to spend some time in Petra. Keep a light jacket for evenings, as they can get chilly even in May. 143

TRAVELISTA

In Pursuit of Happiness

BEIJING

By Momina Aijazuddin Saeed

In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hectic world of fixed routines and long work schedules where people are constantly searching for ideals of spiritual happiness and inner contentment, the need to consciously personalize happiness in your own context is important. This summer as we head out with friends and family to big beaches holidays or for group mountain vacations, Momina Aijazuddin Saeed reminds us to pause and think about the things that make us happy. In this story, amongst other getaways, she thinks back to her time in Beijing and the peace and tranquillity of the Lama Temple in spring.

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pring was in the air when I last visited Beijing. The dewy white and dusty pink magnolia trees had blossomed. People were practicing tai chi in the park while listening to lyrical Chinese piped music. Choir groups gathered together to sing patriotic songs in harmony with the temples and parks that surrounded them. A sunny weekend; a dramatic change from the horrible seven days of rain, grey and foggy pollution that had suffocated the city the week before.

I had a spare hour on a Saturday after a rough work week and before flying back to DC, I invested it in the grounds of the Yongh-he Temple and monastery, popularly known as the Lama Temple. It is the largest set of Buddhist temples in China outside Tibet.

However, one does not need to be Buddhist to feel what an oasis of peace it is.

One walks through a canopy of swaying cypress trees to enter the courtyard fragrant with the musky scents of offerings to Buddha. The temple awakens at dawn when monks assemble to meditate silently. Later the public is allowed in to see younger monks in orange robes deep in their own meditation. The red robes used by the seniors are left behind, folded neatly for the next morning.

The Lama Temple has many courtyards; one leading to another, each showcasing the many Buddhas that had been offered by the then Kingdom of Tibet as gifts to appease Chinese emperors over the centuries. The largest of these Buddhas is over 200 feet tall and is carved entirely of sandalwood. A large grey bell marks the entrance of this shrine. Saffron flowers are scattered at its base. In the first courtyard, one faces a city made of jade standing on a mountaintop and another is full of pilgrims, seeking individual retreat within themselves in Wanfuge or the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happiness.

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TRAVELISTA

Hygge (pronounced hue-guh) is a Danish word used when acknowledging a feeling or moment, whether alone or with friends, at home or out, ordinary or extraordinary as cosy, charming or special.

Modern life has become so hectic the world over that people yearn for escape from its reality of busy-ness and stress. In bookstores, entire sections are devoted to the pursuit of happiness. Self-help books these days seem to offer alternate paths to salvation.

Find the new happy, urge DIY manuals; read them snuggled up with a warm blanket in the winter with hot tea or cocoa, or next to calming rippling water in the summer. The Danish even have a word for it – ‘hygge,’ pronounced ‘hoo-ga.’ This is the new in thing in the research on happiness in the West which is actually derived from an old Norwegian word. It is essentially creating consciously a new ‘cosy’. Meik Wiking has written a book extolling the virtues of this approach. It is called the Little Book of Hygge, and has been on the New York Times bestseller list. I envy Wiking his job: he is the CEO of the Happiness Research Institute (HRI) in Denmark.

Hygge is an interesting read. It explains why the Danes are the happiest people in Europe, despite the delights of pasta and wines in Italy or springtime asparagus in Germany. A lot of inner contentment has to do with the simple things in life; be it mood lighting (which explains one’s hankering for Ikea lamps), simple food or spending time with family and friends. Many of my friends in Pakistan yearn to travel solo and complain of overdoses of family commitments and obligations during the year. They yearn to escape.

The inner principles of these DIY books on spiritual happiness are simple: do more of what makes you happy and consciously personalize that in your own context. This hedonistic principle often gives me license to explore when travelling and indulge in what is difficult to do at home – going for long meandering, purposeless walks or just spending an hour outside of my normal routine.

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One of my favourite escapes is to wander around food markets in different countries. That always provides interesting insight into a nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture and soul. Paris has amazing food markets on its Rive Gauche or Left Bank. These small neighbourhood markets are wonderful and display an array of delicious fresh cheeses and crusty breads, the plumpest of peaches and strawberries and wonderfully mouth-watering croissants.

Travelling in Uzbekistan, I notice that the pilavs served in markets are topped with air-dried raisins and dried fruit. In Vietnam, one can walk through stalls of snake wine, where the cobra is proudly displayed in fermented wine. The cobra signifies strength and is advertised as a symbol of virility.

I had been warned about the exotica on show in Beijingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wangfujing Food Street long before I could bring myself to stomach the experience. It took me time to prepare myself for a walk through it. However, having prided myself on being an adventurous traveller and food-taster, I succumbed to the prospect of the Chinese exotica offered there.

I should warn you. Wangfujing Street is not for the faint-hearted or the lily-livered. The main road is full of malls that sell everything from Chinese calligraphy pens to cooking chopsticks and mammoth blocks of jade. Then you turn into an innocuous-looking alley. The sensory overload is

overwhelming; with sounds of hawkers pushing their fresh wares, music playing at full blast and crowds jostling to take photos of exotic foods.

Actually, exotic food is an understatement. The first stall shows row upon row of creepy crawly insects from large black scorpions to lush brown beetles.

The rest of the market offers servings of beetles, scorpions, turtles and sea creatures. What I was completely unprepared for were the various starfish and seahorses which are breaded and deep-fried for extra crunchiness. At home, my innocent sevenyear-old son often drags us around aquariums to see seahorses which are so perfect in their miniature size. He would have been heartbroken at the sight of these magnificent creatures in neat rows, breaded and ready to be fried and consumed as a delicacy. The beetles and scorpions had also been seasoned on bamboo sticks; flailing but alive. I admitted defeat. I ran for the nearest McDonalds.

So this summer, as you prepare for your great escape from the heat, dust and mango season and plan to head for the mountains or beaches, pause for a moment. Take a deep breath, wherever you are and think about what last made you happy.

Take that moment to carry you through the rest of your busy year. Meanwhile, I will keep reminding myself how happy I am not to be a sea horse in Beijing.

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AGENTSof

change

By Mariam Mushtaq

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Meet the dreamers, doers and innovators who not only challenge the status quo but play a key role in remodelling and transforming the lifestyle, social condition and economic standing of communities, countries and sometimes even the world at large.

These inspirational beings are identified by the projects they take on and the positive changes they help bring about.

Najia

Siddiqui Director,

Adorn Online Rich in heritage and local craft, Sindh is not only the land of Sufis but also of artisans. For centuries, its talented craftsmen and craftswomen have kept alive their indigenous traditions such as rilli, ajrak and block printing. Adorn Online, a social enterprise built on the principles of fair trade, is on a mission to preserve this unique craftsmanship while supporting the skilled artisans of Sindh.

Najia Siddiqui, Director of Adorn, explains how the organization helps marginalized workers in remote villages across the province access ethical buyers and why the preservation of local craft is so important.

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ell us about Adorn’s origins. When did the organization come into being and what motivated you to start it?

NS: The concept of Adorn was developed by myself and my partner, Rosie Pannell. At the time, Rosie and I were working together in an NGO in the field of literacy and non-formal education. We began to discuss the immense talent of the artisans of Pakistan and how there were no formal markets available to them that were non-exploitative and offered them good returns on their work. We decided that we would start an organization which would support the work of struggling artisans. Adorn would then help them reach international, online and local markets while following the principles of fair trade. Initially, our idea was to promote products made by NGOs. But we soon found that the quality of those products was not in line with the demands of the market. We then decided that we would be involved in the design process as well and ensure export-level quality controls in order to further these products in international markets.

Sindh is known for its variety of handicraft – be it rilli, ajrak or hand embroidery. What type of craft is Khairpur, where Adorn’s rural artisans are based, famous for?

NS: Khairpur is well known for rilli crafts as well as basket weaving from date palm leaves.

Is the craft generational; have the women learnt it from their mothers and grandmothers? Do they receive any formal training for it?

NS: The craft is passed along from mother to daughter. In the household, the making of rilli is very much a part of their daily routine. The women do not consider it to be a skill, per se. Rather, it is part of the way they live. Rillis have been made for household use for generations and have been an essential feature of their interiors. The various complex patterns are learned from each other and then imprinted in their memories. It is a very informal process of training which consists of communal production processes with older women teaching the younger ones age-old techniques and tricks of the trade.

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How do you ensure that the products, while retaining the traditional beauty and uniqueness that only a handcrafted item can hold, are suited to the demands of the modern-day market?

NS: Adorn is involved in the production process from start to finish to – be it product development, purchasing of raw materials, preparation of the product and its finishing – to ensure that there is a balance between craftsmanship and elements of style and simplicity.

Our artisans are given the directions for each product along with the product pre-shrunk, cut and pinned in place. So, basically, they are only involved with the actual hand finishes in the product. We also give regular feedback to the women artisans through our field manager who is a very integral part of our product creation process. Since the women live in far-flung villages outside of the city, our field manager makes field visits where she distributes and then collects the work and pays the women.

In today’s world of mass consumerism, ethical businesses are slowly gaining ground as people realize the importance of sustainability over fast and disposal fashion. Has it been a struggle to set up a fair, ethical and sustainable business model whereby the artisans who produce the unique craft are compensated for it fairly? What challenges have you faced?

NS: The problem with setting up a social enterprise is the competition we face from traditional businesses. Our costs are much higher than those of a typical mass-produced, machine-made product.

For example, a shirt at a leading high street brand retailing for Rs. 6000 is entirely machine-made.

The cost to the brand for a minimum of 2000 shirts of one design would be barely Rs. 2000. An Adorn product, on the other hand, that retails with us for Rs. 6000 costs nearly Rs. 4000 or more. This is because our labour charges are higher than those in the market. Adorn makes it a point to pay its workers more than the market wage in order to ensure a better livelihood for its artisans.

Another problem we face is that a hand-made product requires more time-intensive work, therefore we produce fewer products in the same time frame at a higher cost. It is therefore hard for us to make ends meet at times with the competition.

There is also limited awareness in the local market about the concept of ethical buying. Many times, customers are more interested in the bottom line, which boils down to the price of a product. But we do have a growing group of clients who support us because of the cause behind Adorn â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to provide a better livelihood for our women artisans in both rural and urban areas.

Because our female artisans are home-based workers, generally we do not need to worry about exploitation and poor working conditions, as is the case in local factories in Pakistan and throughout the region where women make up a large percentage of the workforce in the garment industry.

Given that you are catering to somewhat of a niche market, what are the channels of distribution and marketing that you find most effective? What are your most popular products and what sort of response do you receive both in Pakistan and abroad?

NS: Our products are marketed throughout Pakistan via our Facebook page as well as various local exhibitions. Adorn has been participating in craft shows in Karachi for 6 years in a row and has also participated in the Daachi mela in Lahore which is held twice a year and is a wonderful gathering of artisans and crafts from all over Pakistan.

Adorn has also participated in exhibitions in London, New Jersey, Dubai and Jordan. Expats all over the world are a great source of our support network and reach out to us through Facebook and Instagram periodically.

Our most popular product both locally and abroad are our hand-made rilli shirts. Locally, we get many quilt orders as well which include patchwork quilts as well as rilli quilts. The best feature is our products are made to order so it is very convenient for our customers to tailor-make home accents according to their dĂŠcor needs.

How has Adorn changed the lives of rural artisans?

Please share an example.

NS: Talat* is one of our women artisans based in Khairpur. She had always taken the monthly ration on loan and lived from one month to the next on her meagre earnings. Since she began to get more work, she has been able to purchase her monthly rations and in addition to this has built an indoor bathroom in her home, quite a luxury in Khairpur.

Not only this, she has even bought a generator for her home. Considering the 12-14 hours of loadshedding in these areas, this has significantly improved her standard of living.

What is the most fulfilling part of your work?

NS: The most fulfilling part of my work has been meeting with our women artisans and witnessing the change that they have experienced with increased financial freedom. It has helped elevate their status in the family, given them greater decision-making power and has allowed them more freedom to pursue employment as well as educational opportunities. Many women help with school fees of their children with their earnings so this makes me hopeful for a brighter future.

Another important aspect of our work is the preservation and innovation in the field of crafts. I am excited when I see progress on this front since these crafts form the backbone of the heritage and traditions of Sindh. Ensuring that they do not die out is a crucial and motivating aspect of the work. *Name changed to protect privacy 153

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The Weavers of

The art of rilli has been passed along from one generation to the next with women having a vast store of patterns in their mind and memory that they translate into their handiwork. One woman will do the cutting of the pattern while another will attach the pattern to the bottom cloth using delicate hand stitches. It’s an art that requires immense skill, in the replication of complex geometric designs onto cloth using hand-crafted techniques, without the help of patterns or machinery of any sort.

Najia Siddiqui, Founder and Director, Adorn, shares her personal reflections after a recent trip to Khairpur, Sindh to meet the female artisans who weave magic with their fingers.

Many of these women never had the opportunity to learn how to read or write but have learned many skills through their traditional craft. The perfection of the stitches bears testament to their remarkable talent and intelligence.

Craft The road from Sukkur to Khairpur is dry and lined with fields of date palms, bananas and wheat.

Roadside vendors, displaying colourful quilts in the most exquisite patterns, are one of the first sights that are seen as soon as you approach the city. This speaks of the heritage of the land and its talented artisans.

It also speaks of exploitation since the prices charged are a mere pittance of the worth of the quilts; with the female artisans getting a very nominal return for this painstaking work. Having no access to other markets, the women have little choice but to accept the paltry return given to them for their labour of love. Traditionally, these quilts were made only for household use and did not have any consumer value. With a growing appreciation of the craft, the demand arose for handmade products in the market.

The women artisans live in mohallas consisting of several mud-based homes enclosed within one boundary wall. Here the families live and work together. Communal space is used for livestock tending and even craftwork is divided among the women in the neighbourhood.

The craft is helping support their livelihoods. When asked how they use the earnings from their work, their smiles are tinged with pride. “We pay our children’s school fees. We use this in our household expenses.” Not only are their earnings important in the running of the household, they also add to a woman’s worth and her say in the household. It has given her a voice and the ability to choose.

The importance of having access to non-exploitative markets is crucial to see the further development of the craft, along with an improvement in its quality.

Adorn strives to encourage these women to push their skill to the next level and also give them good returns from the higher quality work that is being made. Showcasing these items online, and in local and international markets has helped to increase awareness about the heritage of craft in Sindh as well as helped support the development of the industry.

The women have little understanding of their importance in the preservation of history and heritage. They only know that this is something they have always done. It is part of their tradition; and it is a crucial part of their lives.

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THE FASHION FIX

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The PinkTree Company Jaffer Hasan Nabilaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s N-Pro Chapter 13 Canvas Gallery Umrat Khan Mindmap Communications

Good as Gold:

The Whole Nine Yards

By Mohsin Sayeed

From the production to the purchase and the love of owning a garment, it’s all a process of passion; a grand epic of attachment. In this story, Mohsin Sayeed of The PinkTree Company chronicles a saga of slow and responsible fashion – narrating a tale of craftsmanship and fair trade; a journey from old times to the new; and how a bit of glittering gold can add shine to otherwise dull days – as told through the lives of nine amazing women featured in their latest collection, Zun Zarine.

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“How can a product that needs to be sown, grown, harvested, combed, spun, knitted, cut and stitched, finished, printed, labelled, packaged and transported cost a couple of euros?”

– Li Edelkoort, trend forecaster.

And let’s not forget ‘embellished’ and ‘handcrushed’ for The PinkTree’s Eid 2017 collection, Zun Zarine, the design process of which is a saga of love all on its own, but let’s skirt around that for a moment.

The construct of a garment is many things – poetry to some, elegance to some others, and a labour of love for many. Whichever side of the creative process one may be on, the craft that has enmeshed our history as a people has a language of its own. And it speaks volumes. The question then is: have we stopped listening? The bold words that resonate from the dexterity of the hands creating the art that embellishes our lives – from weaving to dyeing, printing to embroidery – must be strung together into song that creates the music we must let play on and on.

For Pakistani fashion, our leaning towards craft is undeniable. The rich legacy that we carry and the innovation that is being created today by modernday craftsmen speak to our ongoing passion. To see the play between the craft of yesteryears and the tingle of new-age embellishment is a thing of beauty parallel to none.

For many, it is the battle to preserve and promote our craft that fires the passion in their everyday lives. The promotion of craft goes beyond the legacy handed down from generation to generation – it is about permeating it throughout the weave of modern-day living. It exists already, this link – when craft gets popular and becomes mainstream, the 158

economic up-thrust carries with it artisans, their families and if we’re lucky, the generations to follow.

And a legacy is born. The celebration of this legacy is what establishes the roots of a people, forever written into the annals of tradition. After all, where are we going if we don’t know where we come from?

However, there is a monster in the room and it must be identified – named and shamed. It is born of consumerism, speed and greed, and it is typically called fast fashion. Much drives this feeding frenzy, and while the consumer is (unknowingly) suffering this entrapment, the background narrative of an entire legacy is endangered. Speed, low prices, exploitation of labour and non-sustainable material are aggressors, as is low regard for quality. More money is spent on marketing the product than the product itself! And as all of this snowballs, the brainwashed consumer is hijacked into a whirlwind of fast-changing trends and aggressive marketing.

And then the clear and present danger becomes even more imminent – a world where trends overtake individual style and what you see are fashion clones of each other, and the faces fade very quickly. I know now what Karl Lagerfeld meant when he said: “Trendy is the last stage before tacky.”

Did we talk about the environment yet? Let’s just do that for a moment. Think tonnes of material used for production – then the consumption of water, energy, the chemical dyes. And there is cycle after cycle of MORE. Never has the cost of low prices been higher.

Sabyn Javeri

I keep going back to Li Edelkoort, the most respected and honoured forecaster in fashion, and these words hit home: “What’s more, these prices imply the clothes are to be thrown away, discarded… before being loved and savoured, teaching young consumers that fashion has no value. We should make legislation to have minimum prices.”

We must learn to love clothes, appreciate the passion, the effort that has gone into making them. We must play our part to ensure that those who make these clothes for us are paid fairly, that they work in a good environment and are respected for their labour.

This is slow fashion. This is responsible fashion.

This is how we as consumers can play our part, an important part – in fact, the most important.

As consumers and as creators, designers, we must practice slow and responsible fashion and pay our dues.

And this is why The PinkTree, continues to incorporate craft in our design process. Once again, Zun Zarine, our Eid 2017 collection, stands as a glorious testimony to our commitment to responsible fashion. The collection celebrates artisans, women, heritage and craft. Partly created by women artisans in Sindh villages and Bahawalpur, the collection draws inspiration from our cultural heritage and harks back to times when colourful susi and wildly vibrant chheent prints were a norm that added beauty to our daily lives. They were the times when cotton was king; when kaamdani was done by our mothers and grandmothers and a part of daily wardrobe; when glistening gota added shine to otherwise dull days.

Zun Zarine celebrates all that and more.

There is such an inexorable bond between craft, Karachi and women. The three have much that binds them together: they are creative, deep, strong, resilient, vibrant, passionate, meaningful, delightful, diverse, survivors; they embody acceptance and are the ultimate torchbearers of a labour of love. Strength and resilience aside, everyone needs love, care, freedom and nurturing to continue to survive, grow and progress.

When it came to presenting Zun Zarine, we struggled with a collective giant mental block.

We wanted a face that represents not only the ethos of Zun Zarine but also symbolized Karachi and craft. How do you hold a moonbeam in your hand? The answer came at us fast and hard – never has a Eureka moment been so profound!

The women of substance around us, embodied by these 9 strong and resilient souls, capture all. The thread that binds them well is their appreciation of craft, efforts to promote them and their unique relationship with Karachi. And they are all Zun Zarine, our Golden Women.

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Amal Qadri

Sehr Kazmi

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Shaniera Akram

Nimra Bucha

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Sonia Rehman Qureshi

Khadija Bano

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Fatima Munir Amjad

Naushaba Brohi

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For the

LOVE SINDHI craft of

Photography: Jaffer Hasan Hair and Make-up: Saima Rashid Bargefrede Label: Inaaya

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COOL summer for the

Photography: Khawar Riaz Label: Gul Ahmed Model: Salman Riaz

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LETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DISH

Dame Pan Y Dime Tonto

(Give me bread and call me a fool)

By Yasmeen Hashmi with Humayun Memon

On its journey to constantly sample good food, this month #DestinationsDiscovers Loco, the new tapas bar and restaurant that has taken the Karachi food scene by storm.

Photography: Humayun Memon

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antalizing the taste buds of Karachi folk, tapas bar and restaurant Loco has recently opened its doors amidst a swarm of new food joints. One ingredient sets it apart – Loco has life beyond this moment. To put it simply, unlike other newbie restaurants, it refuses to follow pre-existing food trends. Instead, Loco has established itself as a trendsetter by introducing Spanish cuisine to the scene, a first for the city.

Loco is the brainchild of a group of passionate young foodies that incudes Rayyan Durrani, whose previous forays into the gastronomical stratosphere include three successful ventures – Simple Dimple, Churros & Choc, and Jucy Lucy. The partners’ approach to the business is clear-cut. “What Loco is today is part of the vision us partners share. We want to do much greater things for the love of food and business.” They integrate local ingredients from markets and bazaars, bringing back bags of fresh, seasonal goodies to the kitchen for experimentation. The partners share a common ideology: “be aware of what’s local and get inspired from what’s global.” The success of this mantra can be witnessed first hand every time one makes a call for a reservation but finds the restaurant fully booked for weeks ahead.

Lucky enough to get a table for two a few weeks ago, DESTINATIONS embarked on a journey to sample Loco’s culinary delights. Upon first sight, the restaurant’s vibe felt young and fresh – think NY-style loft, minimalistic in its control of grunge. A spotted, aged mirror added an almost sensual duskiness, creating an illusion of depth. The lighting was dim enough to conceal the romance one has with one’s meal, giving the place an intimate and relaxed feel. A citrus-y aroma encircled us and stimulated our appetites, prepping us for the holy ritual ahead. The music was appropriate – flamenco played in the backdrop whilst we surfed through the menu; the right volume and just the right beat! As one customer summarized: “The vibe, ambience, music and cutlery (keep a look out for those solid rosewood trays and tribal coffee cups) speaks nothing but Loco!”

The menu offered a wide range of dishes including tacos, pizzas, steaks, desserts and drinks, served family-style for everyone to share. The fresh and vibrant ingredients included avocados, tangerines, raw fish and fresh breads. Based on this fact, the prices at Loco are reasonable for the quality and quantity of the food being served. The service was at par with the best restaurants of the city – the staff was warm, accommodating and helpful in their recommendations. It felt like we were meant to be at Loco and nowhere else!

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From Our Table Manchego Cheese with Cured Meats Cazuela Manchego cheese is cured in the La Mancha region of Spain using the milk from sheep of the manchega breed.

It is light and the freshness and subtlety of its flavour coupled with the two different kinds of cured meats offered an alternative to the generic bread basket served at most restaurants. It was sufficient enough to satisfy our cravings and got us ready for the dishes to follow.

Baked Crab & Cheese Dip A big hit on our table! The crab was served in a cheesy sauce poured into its shell, with a side of fresh salad in a tangy vinaigrette. Similar to the more common crab thermidor, what set this dish apart was the heat at the end of each bite.

And even though there was heat and spice, the dish stayed true to its Spanish origins and wasn’t localized to pander to popular taste. The portion was just the right size and the bread served with it was warm and chewy. We rated it 10/10!

Snapper & Avocado Ceviche Fresh, summery, tangy – delicious! The snapper was delightfully fresh and the ceviche was aromatic. Ceviche is a South American dish made with marinated raw fish and seafood – a new take on uncooked fish for the Sakuraloving Karachiites. Fair warning: the ceviche was a bit tart due to the citrus zest used as a drizzle. Perfect for a summer lunch, its coolness is rather unforgettable.

Baja-style Fish Tacos It is so exhilarating when the flavour or fragrance of a particular dish takes you back to a fond memory.

These fish tacos took me to my favourite taco foodtruck in San Diego, one I frequented as a child on family trips. Although the fish itself could use some more seasoning, it was fried to crisp perfection and was accompanied by adequate amounts of guacamole, sour cream and salsa. What stood out for me was the service involved whilst serving this dish – the staff brought out hot, fresh taco shells, two at a time, to ensure the delivery of the perfect flavour.

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Pizza Bresaola e Rucola Bresaola is air-dried, salted and aged beef of Italian origin usually served with rocket salad or “rucola” to accentuate the overall flavour. The combination of the two on a hand-tossed pizza at Loco was delightful. A safe option for the picky eater or young children – the pizza was satisfying and indulgent yet simple and to the point.

Churros with Hot Chocolate One should always end their meal on a good note – lucky for us, we ended it on the best note with these churros. I was pleased that the churros were not too sweet, were fried to the perfect crisp and were accompanied by a thick, smooth chocolate sauce.

Cucumber & Jalapeno Margarita

Tomato & Peppers Gazpacho

This drink personifies the essence of Loco – eccentric, untraditional and bold! I was sold on the first sip.

Nothing I say today can do justice to how I felt while sipping the margarita. We give it a raving two thumbs up!

A twist to the classic Bloody Mary, the drink had a bit of spiciness without being too overpowering, coupled with just a hint of sweetness from the tomatoes. One could easily tell that top quality tomatoes had been juiced to create this delicious concoction.

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TALK OF THE TOWN

LONDON

Pakistan Fashion Week London’s historic Lancaster House witnessed the first Pakistani celebration of fashion in its 200-year history, as the 11th season of Pakistan Fashion Week London took place, with over 40 of Pakistan’s leading and emerging designers presenting their latest collections. The showcase, produced and directed by Riwayat under its creative director Adnan Ansari, was a celebration of the 70th anniversary of Pakistan’s independence. Organized in partnership with the High Commission of Pakistan London, the fashion week was one of a series of events planned by His Excellency Syed Ibne Abbas, Pakistan’s Ambassador to the UK.

Adnan and Chris

Syed Ibne Abbas, High Comissioner of Pakistan to the UK, and Sadaf Abbas

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Umar Sayeed

Nabila

Sana Safinaz Aamir and Agha Noor

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Saira Haque Ali

Hajra Sasha and Safinaz

Maheen Khan

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Shamaeel Ansari

Bushra and Faiza Rangoonwala

Rita and Bibi

Huma Khawaja

Hajra Saadia, Huriya and Mariam

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KARACHI

Red Bull Doodle Art

Red Bull’s innovative Doodle Art project, which allowed budding artists to unleash their creativity and share their doodling skills with the world, culminated in an exhibition at Mews Café, Karachi, where some of the best artwork received was put on display. Umer Nadeem was announced as the winner of the Red Bull Doodle Art Pakistan 2017 project.

Photography: Humayun M

Khalid Malik, Maria Mahesar and Umair Mirza

Tapu Javeri

Zhalay

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Saad, Samya and SM Raza presenting Umer Nadeem’s winning

doodle

Adnan Pardesy

Yasmeen Hashmi

Arsalan Bilgrami at the event

Maria Mahesar and Bilal Khan

Asad Ul Haq

Ali Gul Pir

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BEIRUT

Bridals.pk Fashion Showcase Held in the heart of Lebanon, Bridals.pk Fashion Showcase by Cresset Technologies left Beirut spellbound with the glamour of some of the most celebrated names of Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion industry, including Nomi Ansari, Tena Durrani, Deepak Perwani, Fahad Hussayn and Nida Azwer.

Asad Malik, Ayesha Bajwa and Azhar Malik Aamir, Deepak, Nomi and Shahzad

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Nadine Abdel Aziz

Deepak Perwani

Nida Azwer

Nomi Ansari

Tena Durrani

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Zunaira Taimur, Saleyha Abbas, Fahad Hussayn and

Nida and Nomi

Nomi, Deepak, Nida and Shahzad

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Taimoor Arshad

Sidra Khalid

Abrar Malik

Sana Syed and Sumra Bashir

Shahzad Noor Sana Syed, Ali Abbas and Sair Ali Aziz

Nida Azwer

Alice Abdel Aziz

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