DESTINATIONS - Issue 13 - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine by DESTINATIONS

ISSUE #13

Anoushey In Wonderland “Fort Munro”

contents.

ISSUE #13

Southern

Belle

On the cover

p.28

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 26

Fort Munro – Raw. Rugged. Untouched

Southern Belle

Pilgrimage Down South

Rooted in the Past

DESTINATIONS DIARY 64

Sights and Sounds of Pakistan

LET’S DISH 80

p. 64 p. 44

SIGHTS & SOUNDS of PAKISTAN

Pilgrimage

down south

Keepin It Thanda Garam

CABBING IT 86

Saima Rashid Bargfrede

p. 132

p. 98

DESTINATIONS

Maria Mahesar’s Singapore

Super

GIRLS

X FPW17 Diaries

NEAR & AFAR 20 22

Dream Destinations Destinations Desires

TRAVELISTA 90 98

How to Travel Like a Fashionista Nina J. Khan Maria Mahesar’s Singapore Diaries

A LIFE WORTH LIVING 104

Kamalaya: A Journey Through the Senses

WANDERER 72 115 124

Throne Room of the Mountain gods World’s End: New Zealand Geneva: There’s No Place like Home

STYLE RULES 132

p. 150

Super Girls

THE FASHION FIX 146

Suit Up with Deepak Perwani

150

DESTINATIONSxFPW17

Journey

p. 104

THROUGH

THE SENSES

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : MARIAM MUSHTAQ EXECUTIVE EDITOR : ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH DESIGN & LAYOUT : USMAN MUNIR ZOHAIB AKHTAR OBAID-UL-MOHSIN MEDIA SALES : NAEEM ULLAH KARACHI CORRESPONDENT: YASMEEN HASHMI CIRCULATION INCHARGE : SHAAN ALI PUBLISHED BY : Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma Chowk, Lahore, Pakistan +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : SHERIAR HASSAN CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER (DAEWOO) : USMAN HAYAT LEGAL ADVISOR : BASIT WAHEED WATTOO CONTACT (SALES) : +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) naeem.ullah@daewoo.com.pk +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk DISTRIBUTORS: NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY PRINTERS : TOPICAL PRINTERS

destinationspk

destinations.com.pk www.destinations.com.pk

destinationspk

contributors Fifi Haroon

Abdullah Khan

Huma Sharifuddin

Pilgrimage Down South p.44

Throne Room of the Mountain gods p.72

Geneva: There is no Place Like Home p.124

Nuzhat Saadia Siddiqi is a writer, an environmentalist, an avid reader and an archivist. Her work has been published in all of the major English newspapers and magazines in Pakistan, and as a child, she even won Rs. 200 from an Urdu children’s magazine in a short story contest, which she considers one of the major victories of her life. She is based in Lahore and travels all over the globe, but nothing surprises her or enthralls her as much as Pakistan. She chronicles her daily adventures on Instagram: @nuzhatssiddiqi

Abdullah Khan is an artificial intelligence researcher in a cyber security startup based in Silicon Valley. With a passion for adventure and extreme sports, he loves to go trekking and rock climbing whenever he can make time.

Born and raised in Geneva, Switzerland, Huma Sharifuddin is of Pakistani origin. She’s a business management graduate from the University of Neuchâtel. While being a dedicated marketing strategist in the automobile industry, she’s passionate about showcasing her country of birth through her photography.

Nuzhat Saadia Siddiqi

Super Girls p.132

Fifi Haroon has been a leading journalist and media producer for over 20 years. She earned degrees in politics (Bryn Mawr), law (Cambridge University) and Media Anthropology (SOAS, London University), the last as a Chevening Scholar. She has written extensively on travel, film and pop culture for many publications and websites including The Independent and Newsweek Pakistan. Haroon works as a senior broadcast journalist and presenter for the BBC World Service in London in both Urdu and English. She has sung with Junoon and tweets to over 63,000 followers as @fifiharoon.

Nina J. Khan How to Travel Like a Fashionista p. 90

editors note from the

The last few weeks have been spent reflecting, discovering, and then volumizing the good finds. WWF Ambassador and TV host Anoushey Ashraf joins Team Destinations on an exciting trip off the beaten track as we travel to Fort Munro together to keep true to our promise and showcase the best of Pakistan.

Before you wonder about the what, where and how of it, let’s start by saying Fort Munro is an anomaly - by that we mean, it is a hill station in Southern Punjab! An excerpt from our main story explains the surprise, “When you think of mountains in Pakistan, you think of the North. You think of the cold, detached glory of the peaks in Gilgit-Baltistan, you think of the indolent grace of Swat and beyond. The mountains in the North hold us, and thousands of foreign tourists in thrall. That’s where we run to when it is summertime and our plain existence gets too unbearable. That’s where we find ourselves to rejuvenate, to convalesce, and to celebrate. And that’s definitely where we find ourselves if we wish to pit our human endurance against the unforgiving fortitude of nature, hoping to scale the mighty K2 or the domineering Nanga Parbat. The North is our default adventure escape now and features heavily in our social media profiles. But what of other mountains in the country? What of other wildernesses yet to be traversed? What of the adventures we are missing out on because our mountain compass is so firmly pointing towards the North?” As an alternate route, we proudly present Fort Munro. The hamlet is part of the mythical Sulaiman Mountain Range, which is the southern extension of the famed Hindu Kush. It stands at a little over 6400 ft and is about a two car ride from Dera Ghazi Khan and approximately three hours from the nearest airport (depending on traffic and weather conditions), which is in Multan. One would think its strategic location would have lent it more prosperity throughout time as it lies at the cusp of the provincial border where Baluchistan meets Punjab, however, the

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

truth is quite contrary. Like most of Southern Punjab, it is an underprivileged area. However, the wheel of fortune seems to be turning in favour of this historic hill station. Recently the federal government has released funds for the development of Fort Munro. Work is underway to revive this place as a cool resort for the people of south Punjab, with infrastructure being laid out for new roads, R&R activities, the provision of clean drinking water and the setting up of educational institutions. Here, in a two part series, we rediscover Fort Munro in all its mystic charm, enigma and the wondrous natural phenomena that constitutes its topography and landscape. Travel enthusiast Aleemah Noon writes on the history of Fort Munro in connection with her personal roots while environmentalist Nuzhat Saadia Siddiqui narrates a personal account of her recent trip there as she is filled with hope and wonderment for what she sees and the will to survive with very little to go on. Having said that, this issue carries inspiring travel stories from other parts of Pakistan as well as internationally. The Kamalaya retreat in Thailand, a comprehensive tour of North and South New Zealand, and the city life of Geneva showcase a beautiful world. As fashion continues to fascinate us with its consistent inconsistency, we keep moving back and going forward in time at the same time. Recently at the Milan Fashion Week, supermodels from the 90s came together to pay tribute to Gianni Versace, the late founding designer of the eponymous fashion house, Versace. Leading journalist and media producer Fifi Haroon talks to some of Pakistan’s top models from the same era as they follow down their new paths in different corners of the world - Houston, New York and Hong Kong, for, as she puts it best “a little taste of how life moves on but stars still dazzle.”

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH EXECUTIVE EDITOR

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

NEAR & AFAR

Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.

han : M. Usman K Photography

What to do: How to get there: AJK is roughly a 4-hour drive from Islamabad.

Bhimber, AJK Bhimber is the southern-most of the ten districts of Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK). Due to its strategic location as the gateway into the wider Kashmir valley, it was frequented by the Mughals enroute to Srinagar. The area is rich in archaeological remains and historical sites.

Where to stay: The AJK tourism department has a number of clean and comfortable huts and lodges in Bhimber and nearby Jandi Chontra and Samahni.

The Mughal-era Baghsar Fort is an imposing structure but while it is currently closed off to visitors due to its proximity to the LoC, one can still enjoy the view of the fort from the shores of the Baghsar Lake, a popular tourist attraction that is home to various migratory birds. The nearby Pir Gali is a fascinating surprise for nature lovers with its forested peaks and clear water channels while Patni Waterfalls north of Barnala are good for easy hikes.

Algarve, Portugal

While most visitors to Portugal head to the popular destinations of Porto and Lisbon, the savvy traveller is increasingly heading down south to the relatively obscure Algarve region, where dazzling beaches and Michelinstarred restaurants are juxtaposed against quaint fishing towns and an authentic Portuguese flavour.

How to get there: The best way to get to Algarve is to fly to Faro airport, which is centrally located in the region. Alternately, you can arrive from your origin city at the international airport of Lisbon and book a private taxi or rent a car (the drive will take under 3 hours). Trains between Lisbon and Faro are also a cheap and convenient option.

Where to stay: The Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve Resort reopened this year as a spectacular, fully-refurbished five-star hotel and resort. It boasts a trendy spa, a beautiful Sky Bar overlooking the cliffside and wide array of celebrity-chef standard restaurants.

What to do: Beaches are the star attraction anywhere in Portugal and Algarve has a mind-boggling variety of gorgeous shores to choose from. Away from the coastline, you can improve your handicap on a Championship golf course, or take a day trip to the Ria Formosa nature park, with its lagoons and wildlife. Albufeira is Algarveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular town, with a lively strip of thumping nightclubs and open-air bars, while the old town is filled with cobbled squares, colourful market stalls and al fresco restaurants.

NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

Arts

Brave New World 4 - 27 October 2017 Internationally acclaimed artist Faiza Butt’s new work will be on display at Grosvenor Gallery, London. Titled “Brave New World,” the exhibition will feature Faiza’s pointalist works alongside paintings and ceramics in her first solo show at the gallery since “Phelwan.” Opening on the 3rd of October during Frieze Week, the works will be on display until the 27th of October 2017.

3 22

Wondrous Worlds: Art & Islam Through Time & Place September 23, 2017 - February 25, 2018 Asia Society Texas Center’s exhibition, “Wondrous Worlds: Art & Islam Through Time & Place,” will bring together both historic and contemporary objects from across the Islamic world. Featuring more than 100 outstanding works of art, the exhibition will showcase the long history, vast geographic expanse, and amazing diversity of works of art in the Islamic world. Two factors distinguish this exhibition: first, the inclusion of works from Southeast Asia and East and West Africa, areas largely overlooked in most exhibitions of Islamic art; and second, modern and contemporary works are featured sideby-side with historic objects. Works in the exhibition cover all media, ranging from carpets to dress to jewellery, ceramics, glass, metal, paintings, prints, calligraphy and photographs, spanning over 1,400 years of artistry. This exhibition is organized by the Newark Museum. Karachi Biennale ’17 22 October to 5 November 2017 The country’s first ever international contemporary art event, the Karachi Biennale, will kick off this month under the chief curatorship of eminent artist Amin Gulgee. As part of Pakistan’s 70 year celebrations, KB17 aims to showcase artistic excellence and create a wider awareness of the transformative energy of art by bringing together over 140 artists from Pakistan and across the globe. The largest art event of its kind in Pakistan, the two-week long Biennale will feature free public exhibitions, performances, talks, public art initiatives and discussions across 12 venues in Karachi under the encompassing theme of “Witness.” For information on schedules and venues, visit karachibiennale.org.pk.

A World of Art and Culture Across the City 30 September 2017–25 February 2018 As part of the Manchester Art Gallery’s programme marking the 70th anniversary of the independence of Pakistan and India, three Lahore-based artists will be showcasing their works in solo exhibitions.

Mehreen Murtaza will fill Manchester Art Gallery’s ground floor gallery with living plants for a new work exploring plant communication and consciousness. Through in-depth research, Murtaza has developed a unique narrative and sound installation which will blur the boundaries between plant neurobiology, science fiction, philosophy and spirituality to create a space that is neither fiction nor non-fiction.

In exquisite postcard sized paintings, Risham Syed shows the ever changing urban landscape in Lahore, Pakistan. Instead of idealised postcard images for tourists, Syed depicts the construction work which transforms her home city. The recently built houses in Lahore’s new residential quarters have perfectly finished facades but unfinished back walls. She reveals these darker, neglected areas which are not for public view. Other sculptural works, shown amid Manchester Art Gallery’s historic collection, include paintings inspired by newspaper images and diverse objects such as domestic ornaments and Victorian furniture.

Waqas Khan’s minimalist drawings resemble webs and celestial expanses. Inspired by patterns of biological organic growth and also by the lives and literature of Sufi poets, his work is a meditation on life, togetherness and the universe. His contemplation is made visible in ink on paper and his work invites our contemplation. Using small dashes and minuscule dots, his large-scale, monochromatic works are composed of either red, blue, white or black ink. In a carefully created installation, the visitor is led around the space from small-scale drawings, to a large-scale floor based work, to new drawings made especially for Manchester. 23

NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

1 2

PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week 2017 The Pakistan Fashion Design Council [PFDC] and L’Oréal Paris have announced their seventh consecutive season of PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week 2017 scheduled to take place in Lahore from 14th October to 16th October 2017. PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week as a platform endeavours to define and present both contemporary and traditional Pakistani bridal, couture fashion and make-up trends, fusing to create the complete ‘look’ for each respective bridal season. To date, the platform has showcased over 60 bridal/couture designers. TEDxLahore TEDxLahore, an event designed to spark conversation, inspiration and connection, will be held on the 22nd of October. For this year’s event, the diverse line-up of speakers includes DG Walled City Lahore Authority Kamran Lashari, rights activist Usama Khilji, writer and researcher Nadia Naviwala, poet Yusra Amjad, transgender activist and performing artist Jannat Ali, graphic novelist and Coke Studio Associate Producer Zohaib Kazi and healthcare specialist Dr. Noreen Zafar.

3 4 A Tale of Love Amidst Terror Arjumand Malik’s “A Tale of Love Amidst Terror” is a love story, set in Pakistan with political instability and terrorism in the background. It offers an insight into the culture, changing values and mindset of the society and takes us from the capital, Islamabad to the Koh-eSuleiman hills bordering the troubled region of South Waziristan. 24

The Burning Giraffe Comfort food with no shortcuts, Lahore’s newly launched The Burning Giraffe near Mall 1 is quite on-trend with vibe and flavour. We advise you to try Chef Yan’s specials for a 10/10 experience!

Evergreen After giving Karachi one of its most popular eateries in the form of Xander’s, restaurateur Sikander Rizvi is on a mission to make healthy eating simple, fun and trendy. Evergreen is the city’s first salad bar and merely a few weeks old, it is fast becoming ‘the’ culinary hot-spot. Located on Khayaban-e-Seher, the café is serving up a range of delicious salads, lean meat burgers and healthy lassis, amongst other scrumptious yet calorie-conscious delights.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Fort Munro Raw. Rugged. Untouched.

Where the lush green plains of Punjab give way to the stark wilderness of Balochistan in the south, the rugged hills conceal a remarkable secret in their midst. Nestled in the crook of the Sulaiman Range is Fort Munro, a hillside retreat marked not just for its breathtaking landscape but also its unique climate that keeps temperatures to a cool 32 degrees Celsius even when the rest of Southern Punjab swelters at 49 degrees Celsius at the height of summer. A former outpost of the British Raj, Fort Munro is a town steeped in mystic charm and wondrous natural scenery just waiting to be discovered.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Southern

Belle

WWF Ambassador and TV host Anoushey Ashraf goes back to her adventurous roots and joins Team DESTINATIONS on an exciting trip off the beaten track as we travel to Fort Munro together to keep true to our promise of showcasing the best of Pakistan.

Photography: Hair & Makeup: Model: Coordination:

Jaffer Hasan Rajan Khokhar @ Nabila Anoushey Ashraf Team DESTINATIONS

Top: Generation Pants: Generation

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Top: Generation Pants: Generation

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Top: Zonia Anwar

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Top: Zonia Anwar

Dress: Sublime by Sara Shahid Earrings: Outhouse

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Dress: Sublime by Sara Shahid Earrings: Outhouse

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Dress: Sublime by Sara Shahid Earrings: Outhouse

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Jacket: Hussain Rehar

QA + with

Anoushey Ashraf How would you describe Fort Munro to a first-time visitor? A place that is quiet and very, very serene; a place of natural beauty and tranquility – a combination that we are constantly in search of but that very few are lucky to find. It’s a place to connect with nature and get peace of mind. As a tourist spot, what would be its biggest draw? It would be an ideal summer retreat for people in Punjab and Sindh, who want a place that’s not as far as Hunza but still cool in the summers. I would caution against developing it into a commercial tourist spot though; for its charm lies in its tranquility. What is your favourite memory from the trip? Shooting just before sunset at the Anari hill, that has breathtaking views of the whole valley. The rugged mountains and terrain had a texture totally different from the north of Pakistan yet were still so beautiful. 42

From being the country’s first female VJ and the face of MTV Pakistan to currently hosting Dawn News’ live morning show “Chai, Toast Aur Host” and serving as an Ambassador for WWF, Anoushey Ashraf is a super celebrity who has blazed a trailer with her desire for adventure and ability to excel. She’s also a stanch environmentalist and an avid traveller whose wanderlust sees her exploring places off the beaten track. This month, she discovers South Punjab’s hidden gem, Fort Munro, on a trip with Team Destinations. Here, she shares some insights on what’s it like to travel across the length and breadth of Pakistan. Has the trip changed/inspired you in any way? It has inspired me to explore more and more of Pakistan. I want to get in the car and just go see what my own country is all about in all its raw and authentic beauty. What is the most remote place that you have visited in Pakistan? I consider myself really lucky because I have had the opportunity to travel from the border of Iran to the border of Afghanistan and been to some remote places in between. Balochistan stands out, not just because it is far but because it is yet to be discovered. I remember standing near the border with Iran and feeling like I had come to the edge of my country. That was cool! And the most memorable? Clichéd as it may sound, the North of Pakistan has to be one of my most memorable trips. I had gone

off-season, in the middle of November, when it was really cold and empty and quiet, which was much to my liking. Another memorable trip was driving from Karachi to Gwadar along the coast, which is just specular and dotted with beautiful golden beaches. What can you not travel without? 1. Comfortable walking shoes because I always have to go out and explore. 2. A good book, with which I can chill out on a balcony overlooking a mountain, by the beach, in the forest, on a boat – wherever my travels may take me! 3. Of late, I have started carrying a notebook and pen. I take notes and draw little sketches constantly so that I can record my memories of each place I visit for future reference and documentation. As an Ambassador for WWF, tell us about some of the projects that are close to your heart. I’m someone who is very interested in saving nature. I like to consider myself an environmentalist and I want to work for the protection of marine life, stray animals, trees in the cities, the wild animals in the North and so much more. I’m working with strays in Karachi at the moment and I really want to work to save marine life. I have grown up by the sea in Karachi and over the years, have witnessed first-hand how marine life has diminished. These causes are particularly close to my heart. What is the one thing that constantly surprises you about Pakistan? That contrary to popular belief, it is quite safe. I’ve travelled all over the country with a couple of girls for my documentary projects and what really surprises me is that it’s not dangerous at all. People are mostly hospitable and often end up surprising you with their open-mindedness. What advice would you give to others who want to follow in your footsteps of being constant travellers? Don’t wait on having enough money to travel to London or New York or Dubai. Just take a car and make a road trip to a place in your own province. There is so much to see in your own country. Start small, go a few hours out of your city and you will find something – a lake, a river, a park – worth exploring. As a WWF Ambassador and someone who cares deeply for her country, my second piece of advice to all young people who want to discover Pakistan is to travel responsibly, protecting your environment and keeping your surroundings clean. Where to next? I’m travelling to Maldives next month with my family and I’ve booked some wonderful scuba diving adventures. I’m really excited about that. 43

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Â© Jaffer Hasan

Pilgrimage

down south By Nuzhat Saadia Siddiqi

The mountains call, and instead of going up North, writer and environmentalist Nuzhat Saadia Siddiqi goes down South, to the rolling hills of the Sulaiman mountain range, past DG Khan, and ultimately reaching her destination: Fort Munro. What she finds is mountains shrouded in mystery and history, and an unbeatable will to survive and thrive.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

When you think of mountains in Pakistan, you think of the North. You think of the cold, detached glory of the peaks in Gilgit-Baltistan, you think of the indolent grace of Swat and beyond. The mountains in the North hold us, and thousands of foreign tourists in thrall. That’s where we run to when it is summertime and our plain existence gets too unbearable. That’s where we find ourselves to rejuvenate, to convalesce, and to celebrate. And that’s definitely where we find ourselves if we wish to pit our human endurance against the unforgiving fortitude of nature, hoping to scale the mighty K2 or the domineering Nanga Parbat. The North is our default adventure escape now and features heavily in our social media profiles. But what of other mountains in the country? What of other wildernesses yet to be traversed? What of the adventures we are missing out on because our mountain compass is so firmly pointing towards the North?

It was perhaps the right time for me this summer to answer these questions and head towards a landscape I had only seen vaguely from the window of my many plane rides between Lahore and Karachi. A chance encounter with an old friend further convinced me against following the hordes up North and discover, instead, what I have now come to refer to as a geographical symphony: the rolling hills of the Sulaiman mountain range in the South, past DG Khan, and the small town situated up at 6,470 feet among them. My destination was Fort Munro, and the journey towards it and beyond proved to be a Thoreauesque exercise in understanding the unfamiliar that exists in wilderness, and the strength of human spirit beyond our socially shaped imagination.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

A British outpost strategically developed in Southern Punjab, overlooking Baloch valley towns (the nearest being Rakni), Fort Munro has decidedly humble bearings. The indolent mountainside rises slowly, lulling you into a sense of security that seems to be missing in the twists and turns of many Northern hill stations. This was a blessing in disguise, since I suffer from the worst form of vertigo that can leave my head swimming on the twists and turns of mountain roads. I joked to my travel partner, my husband Khurram, that if we fall into a ravine the most that will happen is that we will take a few tumbles in our vehicle and call it an adventure sport. There are no steep climbs as the highway beyond DG Khan snakes between the moderately high peaks of the Sulaiman Range and takes you to Fort Munro, but the views are breathtaking. The peaks, indicative of a rich geological history, offer a stark beauty that you wouldn’t find elsewhere in the entire country.

Intrigued, we inquire from our Multani driver why, and we are told that it has something to do with the Pakistani atom bomb. I find it funny, but later, once in Fort Munro where I get to meet the DG of the newly constituted Fort Munro Development Authority (FMDA), Mr. Asfandyar Janjua, I am informed of the rich uranium deposits in the mountainous area and the extraction thereof by the Pakistan Atomic Energy Commission. “Wouldn’t it be difficult to attract the kind of foreign tourists here that prefer the North?” I ask. “We’re hoping the local tourists from cities other than in the Southern Punjab belt would come,” Mr Janjua says. A simple plan, but one that has a lot of heart and merit.

The traffic that we encounter on our road to Fort Munro is mostly composed of large trucks carrying goods either to Balochistan or beyond, or bringing their load to Punjab and then going further up North. Fort Munro is, after all, located on Quetta Road. We are stopped only once at a checkpost manned by the personnel of Border Military Police that is responsible for maintaining law and order in the area. While one of the policemen sternly checks our NICs, I spot a board right behind him that bears a warning: NO FOREIGNER INDIVIDUALS BEYOND THIS POINT. 48

How to Get Th ere:

t of the to Fort Munro from any par There are two ways to get er that, Aft n. Kha DG drive to Multan or country: either you fly or s run t tha te rou nic sce a hway N-70, hty you take the national hig mig the er crossing river Chenab and ge towards Muzaffargarh aft Ran an aim Sul ins ascending up the Indus. Past DG Khan it beg , the N-70 nro. Beyond the hill station Mu t For ch to eventually rea ce vin through the ochistan, entering the pro continues onwards to Bal takes just under nro Multan to Fort Mo town of Rakhni. Driving from ghly 2 hours. rou is n Kha via car from DG 4 hours while the journey

The people of Fort Munro, as I encounter them, are kind, curious, quiet and hospitable. Mostly nomadic, they rely on local tourism for their income, apart from goat herding and working as drivers for big transport and cargo companies that operate in the area. Almost all go down into the towns in the plains in winter, because winter brings with it harsh weather conditions and there is no regular supply of gas and water. Still, they persist. The first day we are in Fort Munro, our hosts send us a whole roast leg of lamb (the traditional sajji), rice with strands of carrot and plump raisins cooked in the fat dripping from the sajji, a deliciously nutty mutton korma and fresh tandoori roti, with a side of chilled and crispy salad comprising of onions, tomatoes and cucumbers. The Baloch inspiration in the cuisine is unmistakable and we are informed by our local driver that most of the vegetables used in the area come from Rakni, a small market town 12 kilometers away from Fort Munro in Balochistan. Other meals over the course of our four-day stay also feature sajji prominently, and our hosts everywhere encourage us to devour the meat melting off the bones quickly so that it does not become tough. In the morning we drink tea made of goat’s milk, and parathas that have butter churned from goat’s milk as well. Since it is “off season” for tourists who had their last seasonal hurrah at 14th August in Fort Munro, the city runs at an easy pace. We are offered tea and sweet syrup-soaked mini-cakes that are a local variation of the French Madeleines everywhere we go. Most of the people offering us these treats refuse to take money, or do so quite reluctantly. We are inundated with these little food favours because we are the only people around with our camera and our phones out, trying hard not to openly gape at the miasma rising through the canyons, the clouds unfurling above the mountains, the stars resplendent above the panoramic hills through which, on a clearer day, we can peek into a valley in Balochistan from our vantage points. Our cup, quite literally, runneth over.

DidYOU

Know

“The last tribal stronghold; …a British outpost and summer headquarters for the administration (of the Raj); this colonial hill station had officers permanently positioned here.” Initially set up by Sir Robert Groves Sandeman in the later part of the 19th century, Fort Munro was named after Colonel John Munro, the Commissioner of the Derajat Division. The hamlet is part of the mythical Sulaiman Mountain Range, which is the southern extension of the famed Hindu Kush. Standing at a little over 6,400 ft, it lies at the cusp of the provincial border where Balochistan meets Punjab. Like most of Southern Punjab, it is an underprivileged area. However, the wheel of fortune seems to be turning in favour of this historic hill station. Recently the federal government has released funds for the development of Fort Munro and the Fort Munro Development Authority (FDMA) has been set up under the chairmanship of MNA Mr. Awais Leghari, whose family’s ties to the area (which is also known as Tuman Leghari) go back centuries. Work is underway to revive this place as a cool resort for the people of South Punjab, with infrastructure being laid out for new roads, R&R activities, the provision of clean drinking water and the setting up of educational institutions. 49

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Â© Jaffer Hasan

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Our driver in Fort Munro is a jolly man who also works for the Fort Munro Development Authority. He is eager to show off his town so on the very first day that we arrive he decides to take us up a winding, snaking, completely deserted road to a hill top locally known as Anari – with a “rey”, he is quick to tell us, since the name comes from the local variety of pomegranate trees that once grew in the area. At the top, it is the hour before sunset and the sun’s light is tender like molten gold, lending a magical glow to the expanse of the canyon that stretches till the eye can see past the height of Anari. There are no signs of the pomegranate trees that gave the peak its name, perhaps extinct because of fuel wood logging or lack of water sources, but we are free to imagine them, and it isn’t a hard task given the aura created by a perceptible drop in temperature as the sun dips lower to bid the day farewell.

We leave at sundown, with the petrified vegetation resembling crouching human forms. But there is no horror here. Only the immense promise of unconventional natural beauty. Everywhere we go in this area, there are goats and sheep. Unhurried and frank, they not only fill the alleys of Fort Munro here and there, they also dot the landscape like a pastoral painting along the hills and in the secret valleys contained within them. With a certain scarceness of wildlife in the area apart from the much-reviled snakes that have indolently retired for the winter, these sheep and goats seem almost exotic in their element. Later that day I get to meet Awais Leghari. He is a present PML-N MNA and a native of DG Khan whose family’s ties to the area in and around Fort Munro are centuries old. He is also the Chairperson of the Fort Munro Development Authority. He invites Khurram and I for dinner at his home where we get to meet his lovely wife and son, who are as proud of Fort Munro as he is, and plan to continue working on projects that will be beneficial to the locals and the area, and will put Fort Munro on the map, so to speak. There is certain poignancy in Mr. Leghari’s voice when I ask him about any local wildlife.

“If the Olive Trees knew the hands that planted them, Their Oil would become Tears.. .” Mahmoud Darwish

My husband and I sit in silence, gazing endlessly into the canyons and picking up patterns in the scarce vegetation on the sides of the distant peaks. While my husband offers a silent, non-denominational prayer, I ponder upon the fact that this part of the country has sadly suffered from the kind of academic and even romantic indifference that it holds no place in our nation’s imagination. Very little is written about the place, and whatever was chronicled about the history of the area has either been lost or is unavailable to read. There are geological studies that have been conducted in the area but the language is dense and pedantic, full of jargon that is hard to understand by the layperson. I think about the thousands of years that have taken to shape the rocks and the terrain of this area. I try to wrap my mind around the cosmological incident that created an almost similar but much smaller version of the Grand Canyon before me. Or is it more like Cappadocia? Some trespassers from the alleged “civilization” we come from interrupt my silent contemplation: two bottles of Coke being offered to us by a local tea stall owner, with our choice of packaged biscuits. An odd combination, but one I accept because it is a gift.

I also make a rare exception when the shopkeeper and the driver offer to take our photos with the magnificent backdrop and take a few photos with my husband, taking directions at this impromptu couple photoshoot at a place that would make a perfect backdrop for any kind of photoshoot.

“It was all killed off,” he says, “either by hunters or because of the indifference of the local tribesmen.” The Sulaiman Markhor apparently once roamed the hilltops but is no longer found in the area, and migratory birds are scarce. You destroy the habitat and they refuse to offer you the pleasure of their company. The snakes, however, prove to be hardier than even men. Mr Janjua, in particular, has seen the tenacity of local snakes, with a blood-curdling display of climbing the rafters of the home he was staying in after his posting as DG FMDA to get to some pigeon eggs. Mr. Janjua never wants to see another snake again, and his driver further adds to serpentine horror as he repeats a harrowing tale of how his father was bitten by one while out walking in a dark and stormy night (but was ultimately saved). But regardless of the fear, the snakes are presently one of the only hopes of striking an ecological balance in Fort Munro.

Under the Olive Tree... On a remote hill top in Fort Munro, a lone olive tree stands strong, overlooking rolling hills and deep canyons till the eye can see. A sentinel that cannot bear fruit, this tree is the last of what very well may have been an olive grove. But its brothers are now long gone. No sign of their existence remains, either in nature or in human record. On top of that hill, which the locals call the Moon View Point, the only witness to the treeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s solitary existence is the waxing and waning moon. But the tree still stands resolute, unfettered by human intervention, home to a lonely monitor lizard that, when I got near it, wove around the treeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exposed roots and vanished into a dent just underneath them. That monitor is also quite possibly the last of its kind in the area. Once teeming with the species, now you would be hard pressed to spot them. The locally known saanda has succumbed to over-hunting by humans for the supposed benefits its various parts that are liquefied and turned into oil to cure everything from rheumatism to impotence. Here, on the hill, so far away from human traffic, the monitor survives along with the olive tree, both signifying a kind of resilience and fortitude that, in my four days in Fort Munro, I have come to associate the place, and its people.

ÂŠ Khurram Siddiqi

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Â© Khurram Siddiqi

Our third day in the area is dedicated to such revelations. Mr Janjua takes time to lead us on a hike on the side of a hill that has overhanging vines, a thick copse of strung-out vegetation that is hard to distinguish into species. While this area is extremely arid, there is water trickling down from the sides of this particular hill. Indeed there is a rain-water storing small lake nearby that may be providing water to this area, but it is questionable. What’s not up for questioning, however, is the Pyaala we find, a birdbath-like natural carving underneath a stony alcove at the end of our short trek. Local legend says that the Pyaala was a gift of a holy man, a saint, to the people of the area, because according to them, it would always be filled with fresh water for those thirsty and parched.

wilderness; here our human endeavour finds its match. And relents. We stop at a certain spot, hilariously speculating which direction Yaqbai may be in. Our drivers point in different directions, and Ms. Raheel is apprehensive, wondering if we have ended up in the uranium-mining zone, which is not open for civilians. But we haven’t. We are somewhere between Yaqbai and the uranium extraction points; the wind is wild and chilling, the clouds suddenly clear up, we see hills that could stand in comparison with the rolling hillsides of Ireland and not come up short. We are completely lost, and instead of being an annoyance, we learn our final lesson in humbleness, consoled by the peace of the place

I cannot vouch for the freshness of the water because I am not brave enough to take a drink, but I am convinced of the veracity of the tale because of the virtue of the setting. It almost seems like something out of a Harry Potter scene. From the books, not the films.

My mother, a teacher of geography and history, has two very distinct ways of describing mountains. One is academic, rooted in science and fact, and the other is what the heart constructs, moved by beauty. Beyond the textbook On our last day in definition of Fort Munro, we decide mountains, she is to explore the mountain eager to tell me that range even further and mountains are the earth’s enlist the help of Anum Raheel, © Khurram Siddiqi way of reaching up to the a deputy director working with the heavens, the height almost an FMDA. We are in search of Yaqbai, the indication of the posture of prayer. highest peak in the region, from where you can And, in her words, if the Northern mountains apparently see the whole of the landscape of the put the fear of God in our hearts, the Southern area. The road is still being made in the region, mountains, with their humble stature, put the love and the journey is tough. We head out with hopes of God in our minds. We should be compelled to and in good cheer, but along the way, we face visit them not just for the thrill of the altitude but our first test: torrential rain. Do we stop or do we for humble introspection and meditation about keep going? We decide to move ahead but lose what it means to be human, surrounded by such our way. We see football field sized grounds, all different facets of beauty, what it means to survive naturally formed, along the dirt and gravel road. with the barest of means, what it means to strive And we see all of Fort Munro as we weave through to make something out of nothing, to declare the heights on the particular mountainside. But your faults to the world and invite hope and soon we realize that our destination has eluded wonderment. us. There are no signs that can guide us, and no signals on our phone for a quick consultation I think of these words as we make our journey with Google Maps. This is the wilderness beyond back to Lahore. They ring true.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Rooted in thePast By Aleemah Noon

Travel enthusiast Aleemah Noon travels to the land of her ancestors in Southern Punjab, and delves into the history of Fort Munro, once a stronghold for powerful Baloch tribes that eventually became a British outpost and the summer headquarters for the administration of the Raj. She discovers a town steeped in the mystery and romanticism of the past, yet with a will to reinvent itself for the future. Photography: Aleemah Noon 57

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

eing consumed by wanderlust can lead you to many places for a ‘holiday’ but it’s not often that your soul cultivates in tandem with your journey. My trip to Fort Monro was of that rare variety. The canyon-like cliffs of the Anari Pahari (Pomegranate Hill) where the clouds encompassed you, the rocky hillside strewn with sparse exotic greenery, the layered hills that blurred like a sepia rainbow in the horizon – all had an enigmatic quality. The town had the ingredients for a real-life Pocahontas setting – the voices of the mountains, the colours of the wind, the wise old tree and the feeling of walking in the footsteps of a stranger to uncover secrets from the past. Fort Munro is a classic colonial hill station – but with a depth and mystery that doesn’t exist in the now-congested Murree. An uplifting adventure begins as soon as you set out towards the undulating Leghari territory (aka Tuman Leghari) – a mix of beauty, history, culture and cool weather. It is situated in Southern Punjab – a part of the Sulaiman Range, along an ideal route where it touches upon all provinces and provides a safe gateway into Balochistan. As a significant trade route, the road leading to Fort Monro is lined with hundreds of trucks transporting fruit, livestock and coal amongst other things, one direction or the other. The Japanese have recently started an astonishing project whereby they have undertaken the construction of 8 steel bridges in the measly span of 30 or so kilometres along this road, adding to the heavy traffic.

I started this trip on a whim; to break away from Lahore’s relentless summer. A short city break ended up yielding experiences that made me grow exponentially. The long Daewoo bus ride and the short cab hops across the changing landscape of Southern Punjab took me on a journey where I rediscovered my maternal roots and of course eventually, the hidden hill station of Fort Munro.

Two hours from DG Khan, we spent the afternoon in Nawa Shehr, next to Choti, where my late grandfatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s family received us with love, delicious food and ethnic gifts, including the famous Choti embroidered suits. I was transported to another time period, emerging into a part of my history that I had no interest in before my chance arrival there. We then set out towards Fort Munro with another quick but interesting stop at the Sakhi Sarwar shrine. The locals have it that thousands of years ago, this was a Hindu shrine where barren couples would come for blessings. Over time, the region was benighted. In the 13th century, the saint Sakhi Sarwar arrived to enlighten the people and eventually died there. There is much folklore surrounding his life but whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s indisputable is that he was called sakhi (generous) for his generosity and affection to all people and animals. Incredibly, till today people of all religions visit the Sang Mela â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the annual urs or death anniversary of their beloved saint. Visiting this shrine is a unique experience: it has an upbeat rather than a solemn vibe, the Mughal art and architecture with hints of colonial redesigning providing a striking visual experience. A cave-like room to the right of the tomb holds two stalls where I got my head rattled with heavy chains and then oiled as blessings in exchange for money; the walls of this room were covered with murals of the saint and his devotees.

A short city break ended up yielding experiences that made me grow exponentially.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK We finally arrived at our destination after passing through winding roads and absorbing scenery. We were staying at the late ex-president Farooq Leghari’s home situated at the top of a hill, hosted by his son Awais Leghari, his wife Arjumand and their son. Their unassuming hospitality and genuine love for the region was refreshing. Over a delicious homemade meal, Awais recounted the history of Fort Munro and its tribes. The various tribes, including the Gurchani, Khosas, Kesrani, Khetrans, Buzdars, and Mazaris, had a strong tribal code in the form of a jirga (tribal council). The jirga meetings of the tribes from the DG Khan District in the north all the way to old Dera Ismail along the Balochistan border would be held here, as a result of which Fort Munro gained regional importance. The original jirga hall no longer exists but a newer structure stands at the same spot. The British designated pieces of land around the hall to the sardars or chiefs to be able to host their tribes during the times the jirga was in session; they would pitch their tents and there would be food and entertainment. However, even the sardars would live in utmost simplicity as there was a great deal of poverty in the region. The sardars’ purpose was selfless – to give protection to their tribes.

the late 1800s, the residences on the Officer’s Hill, namely Munro House, Sandeman House (PA House) and the Commissioner House, were the archetype of colonial architecture, featuring high ceilings with wooden beams, huge fireplaces, sandstone-coloured walls, stained glass windows and roshandaans (moucharabieh), and cypress-lined gardens with grand views. Walking inside the PA House, history stood still as our eyes fixed on an antique billiards table with all its accessories intact and coated in dust, the balls boxed up inside a glass cabinet, and an empty spectators’ bench. The fort itself or what’s left of it was more of a sandstone watchtower. The Christian graveyard was intriguing as the epitaphs on the tombstones told stories of those who had once lived here; it was depressing to see the graves of the 8-month old baby James Frederick and 5-day old baby Walter amongst other teens and young ones. In the evening, Awais and his family took us for a picnic across their lands to Moon View Point where I sat at the edge of a cliff and practiced my shooting skills with a Kalashnikov. We drank delicious hot tea and had sittas (corn) while overlooking the spectacular view. Like a hidden treasure, a revered saint by the name of Daru Pir lives a long trek down that hill. I was curious to visit him but sadly didn’t have the time. On the way back we crossed a 500-year-old olive tree with huge gnarled roots, which according to popular legend makes your wishes come true!

Fort Munro was the last tribal stronghold that the British were able to encroach into as part of their ‘Forward Policy.’

Apart from being the head of the jirga, the Leghari tribe was greatly respected by the others because they had invested in the construction of an inundation canal that led them to great economic prosperity. Their progressive mindset also lent them greater political influence in the area as they believed in education and equal rights for women. In fact, Sir Jamal Khan Leghari set an example by giving the women of his family all inheritance rights including property and weaponry. Fort Munro was the last tribal stronghold that the British were able to encroach into as part of their ‘Forward Policy,’ partially through the Leghari family. Henceforth, it became a British outpost and the summer headquarters for the administration; its officers were permanently positioned here and one can clearly see and feel the strong colonial influence throughout the hill and the valley of Khar.

We were lucky to be given a personalized tour of the area by Asfandyar Janjua, the DG of Fort Munro Development Authority (FMDA). He took us to the Officer’s Hill at 6500 feet, which was naturally emblematic of the British Raj. Built possibly in 60

The famous Balochi sajji was on the menu for dinner at the Legharis’ on our last night, it was the most tender meat with no added flavours except for salt. Over dinner, we discussed the Fort Monro Development Authority’s promising vision for a wellplanned and clean holiday town. The most exciting projects comprised of family-designated campsites and parks; adventure clubs that would offer activities like ziplining and parasailing; revamping of the colonial-era tennis courts and a sports complex that was built by Farooq Leghari when he was president; forestation and creation of trekking trails. The night grew chilly as we sat on the Bhutto Terrace enjoying the gusty wind that whistled through the pines. And that ended our fabulous stay in Fort Munro.

The drive back to Lahore was long and hectic, but we still made a quick pit stop in Choti at Jaffer Leghariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fascinating fortress/home with exquisite murals and stained glasswork. Fascinatingly, it houses a small museum with authentic Indus Valley artefacts. I took a quick skim through it all, but I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to be back to explore that on its own.

DESTINATIONS DIARY

Sights& Soundsof PAKISTAN By AurĂŠlie Salvaire

A romance that encompasses five cities is what has brought AurĂŠlie Salvaire to Pakistan back again this year. This Frenchwoman seems to have fallen head over heels in love with the Land of the Pure. Here she describes the sights and sounds that have captured her senses and her heart as she weaves her way across the urban labyrinth of our national landscape.

DESTINATIONS DIARY

n the beginning there was light. The beaming light when the plane’s wheels touched down the earth at 6 o’clock in the morning. The diffused light from the rising sun on a misty and dusty Lahore. Red bricks welcomed me like those in my hometown Toulouse, nicknamed the Pink City. The fog was spreading its thick and somehow, romantic layer on the streets while crows were circling the sky.

They came to pick me up. As so many would in the weeks and months to come. At 5am or at midnight, waiting for hours that I pass through security, to make me feel at home. And we went to Jade to grab the first of our many coffees to come. That’s how I met Lahore and that’s how I discovered Pakistan. It’s been a progressive love story – from the first instinctive and probably unreasonable crush, all the way to the frustrations and sometimes violent discussions of marriage. It’s been the endless conversations in so many cafés and restaurants of Gulberg or DHA about reshaping the world. It’s been the night escapade to Bahria Town to discover that Pakistan too has an Eiffel Tower and a shiny one on top of it. It’s been strolling around Shalimar Gardens at dusk trying to ignore the persistent stares that inevitably come with travelling in South Asia as a white female.

It’s been meandering in the exceptionally calm Old City on an early Sunday morning, shooting interviews of local wrestlers for our documentary on masculinity, getting a special peek at the narrow streets from one of the minarets of the Wazir Khan mosque, chatting with the men preparing warm lamb soup and crispy puri (fried bread). It’s been hiding way below my dupatta (chador) to sneak into Shah Jamal shrine on a late Thursday night protected by an army of friends, dancing my Sunday out in Harsukh arts residency, or learning that I was the 7th French person living in Lahore at that time and feeling privileged. It’s been sitting in the first row of an Atif Aslam concert and being mesmerized by the frenzy of the crowd reciting all the lyrics by heart. And it’s been having the exceptional chance to listen to Abida Parveen sing at Faiz Festival sneaking into a fully booked venue from the speakers’ entrance. An enchanting moment when the crowd is chanting Ali in trance and we can all witness how she is not belonging to this world anymore. That’s how it all started. Actually, it’s not exactly true. It all started on a beach in Rio years ago, when I told a fellow TEDx organizer that I would love to come to Pakistan, to get access to such a complicated and controversial place. He kept his promise and when I had almost forgotten about it, he sent me an invite to speak at the Lahore edition of School of Tomorrow. What better way to discover a country than meeting in three days some of its major artists, activists and authors all in the same place? But since I had this opportunity, I wanted to know more, to go further…

DESTINATIONS DIARY

So I went south to Karachi and this time, the women welcomed me. The murals of Sabeen Mahmoud first when I went to T2F to dance to the rhythms of Suhaee Abro’s workshop. And then, Sabeen, Urooj, Amneh and many more who took me crabbing in the middle of the night while probably shocking our neighbours with pretty scandalous conversations under the moonlight. When I got tired of loud places, I went north to Islamabad and visited my former boss, now working for the EU delegation there. Seven years he has been here and yet he says he can’t leave. There is something soothing in this green city, a far cry from the visuals on Homeland. Hiking the Margalla trails and riding horses in the mountains of Nathia Gali. Waking up to the rising sun on the mountains from Gali’s End. Discovering the adventures of Pakistan-On-Foot. My excursion to the Shah Jamal shrine in Lahore piqued an interest and made me want to go back south to visit the city of all shrines. So, after a long drive, at night, I bought some bangles and wandered around Multan. I could feel the warm stones under my bare feet, the shiny blue tiles intertwined in the red bricks, the sound of prayers and the smell of candles. I experienced the soothing spirit of the night. Lying on a charpoy (a light bedstead of a web of rope or tape netting) in the shadows, the gratefulness invaded me. But the climax of these past months has definitely been the secret escapade to Peshawar. In our western minds, Peshawar is a mythical name, both fascinating by its history and frightening by its recent events. But there, I was lucky. My partner in crime had great local contacts and she made me swear not to tell anybody about our trip. We went incognito and I was so grateful, as a storyteller, to finally explore firsthand the Qissa Khwani Bazaar, to see for the first time women wandering around in their blue burka, children playing with kites on the rooftops, the sky through the moucharabieh of the old caravansaries in the old city. I was transported elsewhere for a few hours. There were a few things I learnt in Pakistan. I learnt to drive on the left without harming anyone (so far). I learnt that humble Pakistani men love to brag about being amongst the sexiest on the planet. I learnt that Urdu is a very very complicated language and that I will probably stick to English for the time being.

I also learnt to sleep with six surrounding mosques and a stone’s throw away from the landing runway of Allama Iqbal International Airport. I learnt to survive 47 degrees in Ramzan with 3 electricity cuts a day, I learnt that brides come out of birds cages and stop partying at 10pm. It’s been quite an experience. On my way back to France, I took with me a few items – some surprising, others not so much. I took a warm blanket from Peshawar and a burka for my horrified aunt, a Pakistan-On-Foot hoodie for my brother, glittering bags from Mahin Hussain and the amazing online store Polly and Other Stories, delicate earrings and Rumi bracelets from Amna Shariff, Frida Kahlo and Sufi necklaces from Iff’s Collection, a cute jacket from Shubinak, posters from Shehzil Malik and all that I could pack in my suitcase. Each time before I head back, people ask me if I will return. My answer is that it feels like I never

really leave. I’ve been to more than 90 countries so far and I have learnt that the places with bad reputation are usually the most addictive and the most welcoming to the crazy ones who dare to visit. Pakistan rewarded me with love, to the moon and back, with feeling surrounded at all times, with this same crescent being present in all places. I felt extremely stimulated, even in my professional projects, with many exciting opportunities arising, books, videos, podcasts, and much more… The first time, I came for three weeks. The second time, I came for three months. Now, I have a multiple entry one-year visa and a room in DHA. Some joke saying the next step is the nationality. I always say, we shall see, Allah knows best! 69

DESTINATIONS DIARY

Strolling around Shalimar Gardens at dusk.. .

WANDERER

Throne Room

mountain

of the

gods By Abdullah Khan

It is great to be young. Anything is possible. Journeys donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require extensive planning or meticulous detailing. A casual conversation over tea was all it took for two cousins who share a passion for travel and adventure to make a ten-day trip to Skardu and the Deosai plains. Travel enthusiast and adventurer Abdullah Khan pens a compelling narrative of their trek through the picturesque valleys and mountainous terrain of the Karakoram, Himalaya range as they ultimately approach the mighty K2 and are spellbound by its stately grandeur. 72

Photography: Abdullah Khan & Shahrez Khan

WANDERER

his was not my first visit to Northern Pakistan. I have seen valleys before, for instance Chitral and Neelum. However, landing in Skardu and the preceding flight was an altogether different experience. I was gripped with a peculiar feeling; of overwhelming wonder that I am still unable to effectively describe. Perhaps a small exercise would give you an idea: close your eyes. Visualise a valley you may have seen and scale up the magnitude [of mountains, rivers, boulders] a few folds. Do know that size is just one small aspect of this arctic place. Few places in the world would have a landscape so diverse â&#x20AC;&#x201C; towering mountains, a staggering 10km wide valley, clear blue glacial water (that flows into the mighty Indus), majestic cloud formations, forests and deserts with 40ft sand dunes. Finding a combination of any four of these terrain elements is an achievement in itself, and here we have all. Skardu at 8000ft is surrounded by mountains higher than 24000ft! We stayed at the K2 hotel in Skardu before moving on to our final destination, the Deosai plains. 40km south of Skardu, the Deosai National Park is the second highest plateau in the world. At an altitude of 14000ft, it is inhabited by the brown bear sitting atop the food chain. Beautiful scenes of endless green meadows, snow-capped mountains and rock chuck, formally known as the golden marmot (which looks like a squirrel gave birth to a beaver), accompanied us wherever we went. The only dilemma one can possibly have here is where to look. Even imagination falls short. I, for example, could not stop staring at the endless sky with cottonwhite clouds going as far as the eye could see. For our 4-day camp, my cousin Shahrez and I accompanied some friends who are education consultants. Ata Rehman had taken 40 of his students with him for the Experiential Learning Program (ELP) which consisted of camping near Bara Pani. Another activity lined up was brown bear sightings with the help of the Snow Leopard Foundation. As tempting as that sounded, Shahrez and I acclimatized ourselves in whatever time we had and set off for our first peak of the trip along with two other students, Abdullah and Raza. Ali Malik Peak, 15,300ft high, was a tough trek. Because of the steep climb, altitude sickness creeps up often. Furthermore, the extremely rocky terrain had us rock climbing rather than trekking for the most part. All in all, this was a good warm-up for the harder trek the next day.

Ali Malik Peak - 15,500 feet

WANDERER

View from Burjla Peak - Laila Peak, named after a mountaineer who fell to her death during ascent a few years back

WANDERER Mashebrum

The second trek to follow was Burjla, standing at 15000ft. It was a three-day trek along with two nights of camping near the base. Walking through swamps and herds of yaks we reached the first campsite near the pass, or “la” in the local language. And with any pass, there ought to be a peak nearby. And so there was. At over 28000ft (credits to the Snapchat filter), we saw the beautiful curves of the magnificent K2. Not a cloud near it. Towering above every other peak. Keep in mind three of the peaks near it were more than 24000ft (G1, G2 and Broad Peak).

This trip and the natural wonders of Skardu have transformed me in many ways. A vacation well spent is now a different ideal than what it was before we started out. The highs and lows, both figurative and literal, of trekking and camping under the open skies have spiritually and physically rejuvenated me. I can’t wait for the next time I have two weeks off and the weather is conducive for a visit, before I can go back to the impossibly green meadows, sparkling streams, those beautiful valleys and the lofty snow-capped peaks. It’s not just an empty cliché, but I’ll tell you the mountains certainly have a calling. Go and see for yourself!

Trekking 18 of the 35 hours, we managed to finish the three-day trek in half the time. For Shahrez (only), this was great news. The one extra day (now five in total) meant we had a chance to do a challenging hike. By the time we reached Skardu, our plan had already been finalized. We left the next morning for Khaplu and from there travelled a further five hours to Hushe, the uppermost settlement of Ghangche district. Accompanied by a porter, Qamar, and our incredible guide Kachu we started our journey to Gondogoro La. This “la” is another pass 15km south of Concordia. Four of the world’s fourteen “twenty-four-thousandaires” are in this region, as well as a number of important lower peaks, making it, as one mountaineer elegantly put it, a “throne room of the mountain gods.” The peak near the pass is at an elevation of 18000ft. To get to the top involves Class 4 climbing with crampons. Furthermore, fixed ropes are required in order to neutralize the risk of avalanche and crevices. In addition, this offered another chance to spot the mighty K2 from even closer proximity. The three-day ascent posed a constant challenge of crossing streams and rivers flowing through valleys. As the day wore on, the water level would increase, making it even more difficult to find a viable path to cross over. It was during the second day, passing the Masherbrum (23500ft) base camp, we fell upon a raging stream we could not pass. Despite walking along the bank for over an hour, no possible path could be found. Fearing the worst, which astonishingly for him meant heading back, Shahrez attempted to cross over a risky patch. As a consequence, he tumbled into the river along with his 25kg backpack. Half submerged, he somehow managed to pull himself out. But the damage had been done. With his broken collarbone and a dislocated shoulder, we had to make our way back to where we had started from, Hushe. Eight hours of walking and a further four-hour jeep ride back to the nearest city, Khaplu, we finally got hold of some pain-killers for him. In retrospect, had the accident not happened, we would have been unable to reach Skardu. This is because the next day, we heard of landslides blocking many of the roads leading back to Skardu. 79

LETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DISH

Keepinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; It

Thanda

Garam

Lahore gets its first cold-pressed juicery in the form of Thanda Garam, a charming little restaurant located in DHA, where you can drink your way to better health one refreshing juice at a time. Photography: Baemisaal by Bae

LET’S DISH

ooking to shed those extra pounds that you piled on during Eggs in Marinara Sauce the summer holidays? Or are you just one of those people who are constantly in search of light and healthy mid-day refreshment? If so, head over to the newly opened beverage bar in Lahore called Thanda Garam (TG) and drink your way to better health one refreshing juice at a time.

The charming little restaurant, located in an unassuming lane in Y-Block DHA, may be small in size but is big on ambition, being the first place is Lahore to offer cold-pressed juices on the menu. Cold-press, a concept that has taken the international health market by storm, is relatively new to the Pakistani market. It refers to the use hydraulic press as opposed to other centrifugal methods to crush and then press fruits and vegetables, extracting the maximum amount of nectar from the pulp and fiber, leaving the rawest form of juice available. “On a trip abroad last year, we realized that there was not a single juice or smoothie bar in Lahore serving clean, fresh, and healthy drinks. So we started working on opening up our own café. We wanted to do our bit in changing people’s perspective of snacks and enable them to start eating healthier. All juices at TG are made from 100 percent fresh fruits and vegetables, without any added ingredients and thus contain all beneficial nutrients,” Faraze Niazi and Babar Hamid, the couple that owns Thanda Garam, explain their motivation behind the restaurant. Not a fan of the juice trend? Fear not, as TG also offers smoothies and regular juices with added sugar. The smoothies are made from blends of fruits, nuts and dates. Since these are quite filling, they can be used as meal replacements. There is also a fun chai menu. “Lahoris love their chai and no meal is complete without it,” explains Faraze. “TG chais are a blend of cardamom and ginger with catchy names such as flirtea, discotea, mightea. The traditional doodh patti is present on the menu as well. For the calorie-conscious we have our fat burning meltea.” Other than beverages, TG also offers a tantalizing Sunday brunch menu, with interesting combinations such as eggs in marinara sauce, avocado and beef benedict, and the all-time favorite traditional French toast served with cotton candy. Sunshine in a Bowl – a thick, creamy blend of yoghurt, custard and mango is one the hottest selling items on the menu and a must-try.

Sunshine in a Bowl

Thai Beef Salad

Avocado and Beet Benedict

Mellow Melon

Pasta Salad

CABBING IT

Catch up with your favourite stars in the backseat of our Daewoo Cab as they chat about their life and work enroute to their destination, be it a movie premiere, art exhibit or a photo shoot.

Saima Rashid Bargfrede By Yasmeen Hashmi This month we picked up Saima Rashid Bargfrede, L’Oréal Pakistan’s Hair & Makeup expert, from the lobby of the Movenpick Hotel in Karachi and drove her to the swanky new L’Oréal head office located at Dolmen Mall, where she was scheduled to conduct a live Facebook session creating the perfect festive look on me, her model of the day.

An international makeup artist known for her cutting edge style, Saima’s career has spanned over two decades and various continents, including Asia, Africa and Europe. Currently, she divides her time between Brussels and Karachi, working with leading European and Pakistani fashion houses as well as styling for TVCs and fashion shows. Dressed in black from head to toe with cool silvery-blue locks, Saima perfectly embodied the contemporary and edgy style philosophy that has become her hallmark as we chatted about the art of beauty and creativity.

S CABBING IT

Saima, you shuttle between Belgium and Karachi all the time; how is your trip this time around? I am travelling very frequently. I used to come once in two months but now I’m here twice a month! It is always a pleasure to be back home as the nature of work coming my way is very exciting. It is hectic but I am enjoying it so far! You’ve been a hair and makeup artist for over two decades now; when you look back at your career, what words would you use to sum up your style and your inspirations? I have been working as a hair and makeup expert for 27 years now. I call myself a gypsy makeup artist because I was lucky enough to travel for work and learn through different cultures and continents; currently I have covered 4 continents and I think I have a lot more to see. I have worked in America, Asia, Africa and I am now in Europe. The travelling goes on with my work! I started my career as a student of Fine Arts, when I would play with colours. I remember getting excited about a real human face as a canvas; this inspiration marked my transition from the arts into makeup artistry. You’ve worked with brands both local and international. Tell us about some of your favourite projects. Over the years I have worked for quite a few brands, such as P&G, Moroccan Oil etc. But my current association with L’Oréal is one of the most exciting collaborations so far. The brand is huge, and the variations you get under one name are insane… it’s beautiful! As an artist, it is very important for me to have the liberty to be creative, whether it’s sticking to a very classic point of view or trying very up-to-date trends. Here, I have the freedom to do that. The entire L’Oréal team pays attention to every little detail in order to incorporate international trends into our society, to fit the culture and mind-set. Not many brands do that. And for me, that is a really intelligent approach. What do you always carry in your handbag? Lip balm, hydrating moisturizer and hand cream, mascara, water and my headphones. Sometimes I try to sneak in my face wash too! I enjoy lip stains a lot these days also.

Do you feel there is a certain hesitation within the country to accept international styling trends? I think that in our part of the world, we are strongly influenced by culture. We feel that if we incorporate international trends into our styling, we will let go of the cultural side of fashion, colours or flavours. This is not true. I believe that everywhere in the world, when a brand creates fashion or a trend, it is to tell the people how far they can go yet still stay true to their identity– because versatility and change is the beauty of life. And if you do not adapt, you become stagnant, boring. When a cosmetic brand, like L’Oréal, is backed by an educated team of experts who are ready to help the customer figure out the product, teach them its right application and use, it offers a different perspective to people who are scared to try out new things. It is indeed an opportunity for such people to get out of their comfort zone, try to have a different flavour and still look beautiful. What are the most common misconceptions that people have about styling? Here in Pakistan, I feel people are scared to experiment because they feel that using products will harm their hair and skin. However, due to the evolution of technology, products can be used safely and without harming the body. I constantly colour my hair and people always ask me, “How can you get away with so much colouring?” The solution is not to simply put oil in my hair pre-colour (the traditional Pakistani way) but instead, use the right kinds of products that help me protect my hair from colour damage and provide hydration – such as hair creams (I love!) and hair masks. The same goes for skincare. When I am not working in front of the camera, I make sure I allow my skin time to breathe and follow a regime of moisturizing and cleansing. I do not sleep with my makeup on ever!

Which places inspire you and your work? I am a big city girl! I enjoy the madness. The sign of life is movement. I love Paris; London is one of my favourite cities because I feel the creativity there is on a different level. People go mad with expression! You go to Bond Street and you will see crazy coloured hair all around you – green, blue, yellow. You see punk and funk and creativity. I liked that even about New York while I was living there. So my answer is any city, any culture, which gets me out of my comfort zone and makes me learn. When I was in Africa, I was amazed because I was working with dark skin that had stronger, thicker texture and sometimes, dark skin with thinner textures. Learning through different cultures is very important – it is my high.

#CALLTIME! The Daewoo cab and I pick up Saima from the Movenpick Hotel in Karachi.

able Saima takes a comfort b. ca oo seat in the Daew the th, oo sm The ride is interview smoother.

We reach the new L’Oréal head office in Dolmen Mall. Saima live an

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TRAVELISTA

HOW TO like

Fashionista

Nina J. Khan As the last days of summer approach, designer Nina J. Khan of Nickie Nina takes a look back at her glamorous travels through the summer months that saw her playing tourist in cities such as Berlin, Paris and Wales amongst various others. From the charm of Parisian cafĂŠs to Berlinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s compelling art scene to the historical castles of Wales, Nina shares some of her favourite holiday snapshots with DESTINATIONS.

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Paris

One of the highlights of my summer trip was that I got to spend time with friends who live aboard and who I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to see that often. In Paris, that meant having a grand old time with Romana and Ashraf, from strolling along the Champs ElysĂŠes to acting like tourists at the Eiffel Tower to dressing up for nights out and enjoying fine French cuisine.

The Peninsu la Paris is o ne of the ci boasts a ri tyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most o ch history. rnate sights It opened in governmen and 1908 and w t offices in as converte 1936. The h wounded o d to otel served fficers duri as a field h ng World W as the hea ospital for ar I. During dquarters o World War f the Germ France duri II it served a n military hig ng the Nazi h comman occupation as The Pen d in of Paris. Th insula Pari s in 2014. e building reopened

Berlin

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Berlin is a city steeped in contrasts – while there is a vibrant culture and exciting nightlife, there are constant reminders of the city’s dark past around you, such as the Berlin Wall Memorial. For a history buff, the German capital’s many museums and ancient architectural sights provide an absorbing experience. And for a foodie like me, there are a host of culinary adventures on offer.

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Wales Marked by a rugged coastline, charming medieval towns and wonderful people, my holiday in Wales was truly memorable. What made it extra special was the fact that I got to meet my college friend Saira. As the two of us relived the old days, I was transported back to a time when we were young and carefree and our photos together truly reflect that spirit.

Caernarfon Castle: This imposing medieval fortress by the river is one of Walesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; most iconic landmarks and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built between 1283 and 1330 by Edward I as a military stronghold, seat of government and royal palace.

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Maria Mahesarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Singapore Diaries Maria Mahesar, the National Communications Manager at Red Bull, recently fulfilled a lifelong dream and undertook a trip to Singapore to witness a Formula 1 event live. Here, she recounts her experience of being part of the exhilarating Singapore Grand Prix, the only night race on the F1 circuit, and discovering the wonders of the Garden City beyond the 3-day event.

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After months of planning and contemplating, this September I finally packed my bags and headed to what is famously known as one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world, home to a diverse set of ethnicities... Singapore. Between almost missing my flight due to peak-hour traffic in Karachi and a gruelling 11-hour journey, I finally made it to Singapore’s Changi Airport. Changi is a transit-passenger’s paradise and almost worthy of being a tourist destination in itself. It has won more than 500 “World’s Best Airport” awards since it opened, including Business Traveller magazine’s version for 28 consecutive years. It boasts some unexpected highlights such an outdoor nature trail, a swimming pool, movie theatre, hawker-style food stalls etc. I would have loved to loiter but my 7-day itinerary was packed and I didn’t want to waste a second of my coveted trip.

The force that had brought me to Singapore was the Singapore Grand Prix (September 15-17). I have religiously followed and worshipped Formula 1 racing since the age of 13 and since this was my first experience of watching a race live, I could hardly contain my excitement. What makes the Singapore Grand Prix extra special is the fact that it is the only night race on the Formula 1 calendar. The 3-day event – Practice, Qualifying and Race – is accompanied by a number of concerts, which remain a huge draw for the locals. Not surprisingly, my friends accompanying me wanted to attend the concerts rather than the race and initially, to be honest, I was scared of losing my way alone in the large crowd expected to be in attendance. I was so nervous on my way to the Marina Bay Street Circuit that I could hardly hold my phone steady but it all changed once I reached the venue. Everything was extremely well organized and ran like clockwork, with ushers guiding you throughout in order to help you reach your allocated seat. 100

The venue was bustling with food, laughter, banter between fans supporting their favourite teams, merchandise stalls, music and large projectors to keep you in view of the race no matter how far back you were seated. At first, the cars seemed like a scene from an action flick; it took me a while to accept the fact that I was watching the cars and drivers I had idolized almost my entire life LIVE! The thrill of the speed, and the adrenaline from the roar of the cars was electrifying; even the rain couldn’t stop the crowd from cheering and chanting up a storm. Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes) took the lead followed by Daniel Ricciardo (Red Bull) coming in second and Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes) third. The star-studded Podium Lounge Party to celebrate the conclusion of the Singapore Grand Prix saw influencers from the worlds of fashion, motorsports and music glamming up the arena, and as soon as Macy Gray took the stage, everyone headed to the dance floor and swayed to her sublime hits.

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A tiny lane hidden away in the heart of the Muslim quarter, Haji Lane is a fashionista’s paradise. With the race out of the way, it was time to explore Singapore and what better way to start than a pit-stop at Haji Lane. A tiny lane hidden away in the heart of the Muslim quarter, Haji Lane is a fashionista’s paradise. The shophouses in this street come with a fascinating history. In the 60s and 70s, the area provided lodging for poor Malay families, and also gave shelter to pilgrims on their annual pilgrimage to Mecca. Incidentally, that’s where the name of the street has its roots — ‘Haji’ is the word for a Muslim man who has completed a pilgrimage to Mecca. The area is defined by beautiful yet quirky graffiti that makes you stop in your tracks and just stare, cosy yet stylishly unique roadside cafés and trendy fashion outlets. I shopped my way across the narrow alleys, picking out unusual colour combinations, cuts and embroideries; rest assured I’ve got my autumn wardrobe all set! The highlight of the trip to Haji Lane was fulfilling yet another teenage dream and finally getting inked. No trip to Singapore is complete without a visit to the Gardens by the Bay, a multi-award winning nature park spanning 101 hectares of reclaimed land, with some awe-inspiring lush greenery, a stunning waterfall and suspended walkways between trees. If you find the time, do visit the gorgeous Marina Bay Sands Hotel and its infinity pool located on the 57th floor. The China Town Market is another interesting area with charming pre-war shophouses, temples and markets that provide a glimpse into Chinese culture. When in Singapore you simply can’t resist the tempting mix of cuisines that incorporates flavours of Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and Indonesian influences. The must-try local dishes are Wonton Mee, Dim Sum, Laksa, Bak Chor Mee and Hokkien Prawn Me. Even though this was my third visit to the country, 102

it was the first time I got to explore it on my own. As I took a late night walk on the streets at 4am (a practise that I follow on all my trips abroad), I was amazed at the calm that pervaded, the ease with which people were enjoying their lives even at such an early hour. It was rather encouraging to see how welcoming the locals were towards tourists; they would give me their spot in case of long queues at taxi stands, patiently guided me with Google Maps on their phones whenever I lost my way and were interested to know more about my country and culture when they discovered my nationality. This trip gave me a much-needed sense of selfexploration and me-time that I often tend to forgo due to the hectic lifestyle I lead in Karachi. My love and admiration for Singapore has grown by leaps and bound, and I can’t wait to visit this beautiful country again. Thank you Singapore for such a fantastic experience.

Mariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fall

must-haves

My style is sleek and urban-chic. I love high-end brands such as Tom Ford and Dior but I also have these bohemian moments where I like to experiment with vintage as well as contemporary trends. I like to keep myself updated with the latest international fashion trends as well as street style from around the world. Tokyo, Singapore and Seoul street style is whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspiring me these days.

1. I love adding statement belts to cinch coats, sweaters and collared shirts. 2. Comfy man shoes for daily wear are a must in my closet. 3. Cozy knits with fun detailing, such as this asymmetrical Tom Ford sweater, are fall essentials. 4. My work wardrobe consists of straight cut dress pants that can take me from a day in the office to an evening out. 5. Printed stilettos for when I want to add some oomph to any outfit. 6. I like my handbags minimal and chic and am especially loving suede clutches this season. 7. A bit of arm candy can uplift when the most basic outfit. 8. My favourite pair of denims are my boyfriend jeans. 9. You can never go wrong with a checkered blazer, whether for work or play! 10. My gold-plated hoops are my signature accessory 11. A silk scarf, such as this beauty from D&G, looks ontrend yet classic.

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Journey through the SENSES

A LIFE WORTH LIVING

By Tammy Bux

Arriving at Kamalaya Wellness Resort is akin to entering a latter-day Eden. As soon as you pass through its gates, the din and hustle of the outside world disappears. Tammy Bux takes us along on her solo trip to this wellness idyll, located on the picturesque island of Koh Samui in Thailand.

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING

eeding a break from the 9-5 grind, I embarked upon my first solo holiday since my scholarship year in France more than 25 years ago. My husband Shahid couldn’t get away from a project he was working on in Silicon Valley, so I decided to go alone. I had heard Kamalaya was one of the best places to go if you are travelling solo as there are many other lone travellers who visit for the express purpose of self-renewal and some much-needed “me time.” To say that Kamalya is a magical place is an understatement. Named 2017 Worldwide Health & Wellness Destination of the Year by World Spa & Wellness Awards, the resort is situated on a stunning coastal landscape with a pristine reef-protected beach. The ocean fades from dark turquoise on the horizon to a translucent aquamarine close to the shoreline. The hillside is forested with tropical trees, rising in a series of natural terraces to a hilltop plateau with spectacular 360-degree views of the sea and outlying islands. The hill climb from the beach up to the yoga pavilion and lap pool and down is not for the faint-hearted. I certainly got a cardio workout I hadn’t anticipated. There are some very steep hills which make you work up a sweat, especially if you try to scale them in the midafternoon heat. If you are tired or just want to arrive fresh at your next destination, then I suggest you call a golf buggy which can transport you anywhere throughout the property.

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Kamalaya Essentials 1

30 or 50 SPF sunblock and a wide-brimmed sun hat

2 3

Flip flops, swimsuit and kaftan

A good book to read while laying in the hammock or lounging poolside

Your favourite summertime music playlist

Chic resort wear in natural fabrics like cotton, linen and silk chiffon

The resort has been designed by architect and artist Robert Powell. Every vista is picture perfect; from the reception terrace at the wellness centre to the colourful flora peeping through the trees as you ascend the labyrinth of stone stairways. The 75 rooms and villas are nestled amidst ancient granite boulders, streams and tropical vegetation. Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restorative presence is felt throughout the property with many semi-open bathrooms, outdoor terraces and balconies, expansive windows and captivating views. When I visited there were around 80 guests. But what took me by surprise was the fact that there was an unexpected intimacy about the place. The many pathways and stone staircases are for the most part unpopulated as you wind your way up and down the curved hills and dales. The property is designed in such a way to maximize privacy, and social interaction happens mainly at the dining areas, poolside or by the beach.

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A LIFE WORTH LIVING If you are planning a honeymoon or celebrating a special occasion you may wish to splurge on a private pool villa either on the beachfront or in the penthouse. The prices range from THB 30,800 per night for a one-bedroom villa in the low season to THB 40,700 in the high season. As an added bonus, repeat guests received one free night on all stays of four nights or more. The drier months of December to February are considered the best time to visit Koh Samui which also coincides with peak season rates. The resort exemplifies minimalist luxe on a whole other level. The founder and owner of the resort, John Stewart, calls it ‘monk chic’. The rooms are decorated with Asian textiles, carefully selected art pieces and gleaming marble and wooden floors. No expense has been spared to bring an elegant ecovibe to each and every detail of the experience. Toiletries and other amenities in the room are lovingly wrapped in hand-made recycled paper. Another special touch is the insect repellent found in every bathroom on the property which is a silky, non-toxic lotion infused with citronella oil.

for a 7-night package in high season. You can also select an individually tailored programme and purchase your treatments a la carte, which is what I chose to do. Skilled healing practitioners from all over the world come to Kamalaya to treat a multitude of ailments via holistic therapies providing mental and emotional healing. I booked a valuable consultation with the much soughtafter Dr. Song who holds a degree in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) from the University of Shanghai. I underwent several sessions of acupuncture and cupping followed by a herbal healing treatment (moxa) in conjunction with massage (tuina), administered by his protégé Miss Susu, who has studied rehabilitation therapies at the same university. I can also recommend the remedial massage from Stephen Kerwin, who in just a single session, was able to release many of the knots in my neck and shoulders. After 5 days of continuous treatments, my constricted muscles really started to loosen up, benefiting from the intensive healing effects of the TCM and deep tissue massage.

Skilled healing practitioners from all over the world come to Kamalaya to treat a multitude of ailments via holistic therapies providing mental and emotional healing.

Kamalaya has all the trappings of a 5-star resort including a stunning cliff top pool, Moroccan-inspired steam caverns and a wellness spa with close to a hundred treatments on the menu. All guests receive a complimentary wellness consultation on their first day. Services range from all forms of Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), and Thai massage to organic facials from the cult West Australian skincare brand, Sodashi. In recognition of the resort’s outstanding holistic health and wellness approach, it was named Best Destination Spa in the 2016 Condé Nast Traveller Spa Awards. When you book your stay you can choose from one of the pre-paid programmes on offer such as detox, ideal weight, stress and burnout, yoga, emotional balance or sleep enhancement. Packages are 3, 5 and 7 nights or longer depending on what results you want to achieve. Accommodations are included and you can also add on a flexible meal plan. Prices range from THB 58,343 (single occupancy) and THB 101,986 (double occupancy) for a 3-night programme in low season to THB 218,861 (single) and 338,322 (double)

At this point I must make a particular mention of the overwhelming kindness and courteousness of all the staff throughout the resort. They were always smiling, happy and ready to oblige. It felt as though I had been invited into a family gathering where I was being spoilt and pampered. I had the opportunity to interview John Stewart who echoed this sentiment. “My wife Karina and I built a place where we would want to live, where the staff and guest would be treated like family members in our home. Our aim is to create a sense of community and to welcome people from different cultures. Guests who have been here for a few days feel so at home that they start to act as hosts for the newcomers. There is a 35-45% return rate for guests. This is our twelfth year since we began and some guests have been here 16 times.”

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One of the more enjoyable aspects of my trip was joining the community table at dinnertime. I made friends with people from all over the world including Dagmar from Cologne, Paivi from Finland, Aline from Geneva, Richard and Karissa from Australia, Catherine from Dublin, Loretta from USA and Jo from London. We would come together at the end of the day, enjoy a sumptuous meal and then share stories and laughter late into the night. We are actually still in touch and some of us have plans to meet up in Europe over the next 12 months. At meal times each and every one of your senses will be delighted with the aroma of lemongrass, ginger and fresh chillies emanating from the two restaurants on site. The food flavours are a mix of fresh herbs and spices. There is both a regular and a detox menu available. My favourite dinner items were the seared scallops with mint and basil puree and the slipper lobster and mango salad with wasabi dressing. A variety of chicken, fish, seafood and vegetarian meal options are available. The most surprising discovery was the coconut sorbet with fresh fruit. This dessert option was on the detox menu and it was delicious. My go-to lunchtime meal was chilled cucumber gazpacho and a superfood salad with goji berries, sunflower seeds and avocado, best eaten poolside at a leisurely pace. When the time came for my departure, I was reluctant to leave this nirvana on earth. As the resort limousine drove away from the property, I inhaled the many fragrances in the air for the last time. There was a whiff of frangipani blossoms followed by a waft of incense. I could hear the faint sound of a flute playing in the balmy breeze. The clouds appeared as fluffy cotton balls dotted across the cerulean sky. I was completely blissed-out and had already started counting the days until I could return to this island paradise. I know that this is just the first of many journeys I will to make to this heavenly place.

Inside Kamalaya

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Appointments with visiting healers and wellness practitioners fill up quickly so book your sessions before you go via email or live chat on the website.

Attend one or more of the many free daily classes of yoga, meditation, pranayama, qi gong, stretching, pilates, fitball, circuit training and aqua aerobics.

Take the Thursday afternoon sunset cruise (THB 3,750) .

Participate in the Inspiring Healthy Cuisine Cooking class (THB 2,2,50).

Minimum stay is 3 nights throughout the year and 7 nights during peak season (23 Dec to 13 Jan).

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Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s End NEW ZEALAND By Sheikh Omer Zaheer

Quietly tucked away at the edge of the world is a treasure trove of scenic beauty and natural wonders in a land far far away, called New Zealand. This is an anecdotal account of Lahore-based travel enthusiast Sheikh Omer Zaheer as he travels across the length and breadth of this magical kingdom and tries his best to capture the sensory overload of sights and sounds through his pictures and words.

Photography: Sheikh Omer Zaheer

Kingston - way to milford

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t all started on an idle evening at a cafĂŠ in Lahore. My colleagues and I were on the subject of travel and discussing which were some of the good destinations for this summer. While some viable and economical options were being put on the table, we were not shying away from suggesting the most elaborate summer vacations possible. The mention of New Zealand came up; much was said about how it was the perfect dream vacation but then came the warnings: a) it was too far and b) it was virtually impossible to secure a visa. It was at that very instance, while silently tossing my brownie melt on the plate from side to side, I murmured to myself â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CHALLENGE ACCEPTED!

Visa If you are a holder of the Pakistani passport like I am, I know what you are thinking. Every time you make up your mind to travel, it is usually followed with a long sigh as you skim through the document checklist you will need for the dreaded visa process. I am not going to put you at ease here. New Zealand does not have an embassy in Pakistan and the visa process is less than crystal clear. It is an online application; followed by a hefty parcel of documents that you will need to courier to Dubai; followed by an indefinite amount of waiting. I am, however, here to assure you of one thing. Once it is all said and done, it will be worth it. As you read up on the places I visited and have documented here for you, I am hoping that by the end of it, I will have tempted most of you to at least give it a serious thought.

North Island At the end of a 25-hour journey I finally landed in Auckland. The best part? I was not racially profiled at customs which is always a big plus. However, since they are very particular about their unique biodiversity, they will thoroughly check you and your belongings for any foreign fruits, animals or even dirt. 116

So here is how it all started. First things first, I bought a SIM card at the airport counter for the mandatory checkins that were yet to come. I chose Spark over Vodafone as they have the better travel package and reasonable coverage. I hailed a cab and was on my way to the Grand Windsor. Now my choice of accommodation was dictated by location with a hint of luxury. It is on Queen Street which is the dead centre of Auckland. It is a decent pick except it was being renovated at the time so there were moments when it got slightly inconvenient. Due to extreme travel fatigue, a large portion of the first day was spent napping.

Later in the day, I strolled over to the Viaduct Harbour to treat my palate to some local cuisine (more on that later). Luxury boats, bustling restaurants and excited tourists adorned the waterfront. Our pick of the night was Dr. Rudiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rooftop; a cool, breezy place serving great finger food with outdoor rooftop seating that offers a panoramic view of the sailboats and twinkling night-lights. After our nibbles we kept on moving and to our surprise only a few steps out across the Wynyard Crossing, you could see the whole city skyline as it bounced off the ocean.

We began Day 2 by picking up the pre-booked SUV at Go Rentals. Their fleet is all new and reasonably priced. NZ drives left like us, so there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t any issues in adjusting to the local traffic. It is worth noting here that anything that is worthwhile doing in the North Island is approximately a 2-hour drive from Auckland and since the city itself is bit of a stretch, a personal vehicle is the sensible way to go. More than half the fun is experiencing every mile of the road yourself and pulling over at every viewpoint on the way to take in the sights and sounds that NZ has to offer. The Auckland skyline

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Hobbiton The shire is by the far the most popular tourist destination in NZ and the only way to see it is through guided tours. Situated on Alexander Farm, the movie set was built in real the second time around and now you can experience it too through guided tours. Bilbo Baggins is never home but Peter Jacksonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye for detail is just incredible. You will be amazed to learn the tricks he had up his sleeve to bring the movie franchise to life. Interestingly, the terrain of the Alexander Farm is just exclusive to that property and nothing else stretching miles in either direction compares. You can end your day with snacks and drinks at the Green Dragon Inn â&#x20AC;&#x201C; built to scale. Whether you are a fan or not, Hobbiton is a must do to admire the work of the genius.

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Waitomo

The glow worm caves. This is exactly what it sounds like; caves with worms that glow in the dark and create their own night sky underground. You can either do a commercial boat ride or a more personalized and thrilling walk-through. We did the latter. It was up close and personal and perhaps the right way to go if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind scraped knees and freezing water.

Te Puia

A geothermal valley with live geysers and bubbling pools of mud, Te Puia is a national park in Rotorua where you can stroll at leisure to experience these natural spectacles and the Maori culture. The geysers are of course the main attraction. They erupt many times a day for many minutes at a time, so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry at having missed anything when you get there.

Te Puia

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Redwood Walk

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Redwood Walk

The Nevis Swing

A network of bridges suspended through foliage of towering Redwood trees is another attraction at Rotorua. You can do the walk during the day for the wonderment or at night for the magic. The lanterns that hang from these giants light your way and you can hear the local nocturnal fauna in the background.

(Warning: not an ordinary swing) It is one of those iconic things you are expected to do, when in Rome and what not. The world’s largest swing suspended between two peaks is an exhilarating albeit terrifying must-do. You are dropped from a bridge as you swing helplessly in a valley till your lungs can no longer carry your screams.

South Island Then there is the South Island. By this point into my trip, I had thought I had witnessed the essence of natural beauty – only to be proved completely wrong. The South Island is a fresh take on natural landscape and foliage unlike anything you will see elsewhere in the world or even on the North Island. The base of operations for South Island is Queenstown. A small cosy town sandwiched between a lake and a host of mountains, it is literally something out of a fairytale. It also happens to be the hub of all adventure activities and nightlife. In Queenstown, I stayed at The Rydges, my choice once again dictated by location. Queenstown is rather small and parking is an issue so it is best explored on foot, especially since everything is within shout-out distance. You can casually stroll into the town centre and book your activities for the day. At night Queenstown comes alive with performances on the streets, stalls on the roadsides and nightclubs galore. If you plan to make new friends or interact with the locals, this is the place.

Milford Sound A four-hour drive (accounting for all the stopovers for viewpoints), Milford Sound is one of the main attractions of the South Island. We splurged on an X5 and drove ourselves there. Now this can be traded in for a helicopter ride or cruise and turned into a day trip, but we chose a car because we wanted to explore every nook and cranny leading up to Milford Sound along the way. You are bound to come across some breathtaking views and quaint little towns along the way, and you will need all the time you can get to take it all in. This is specially recommended if you love to drive and wish to sway through miles of empty roads paved against mesmerizing lakes, mountains and forests. If you are the adventurous type there are a host of camping sites at the end of this journey. Alternatively, you can opt for a more glamorous wooden cabin, the Milford Lodge, with a lake or mountain view, complete with all the amenities familiar to a spoilt traveller. I am not sure if it was the drive there or the destination, but I have never been more overwhelmed by my surroundings. As I walked these dimly lit pathways, all I could do was but feel helpless at how none of this I could take back with me in picture, sound or story. It was easily the highlight of the whole trip, and everyone deserves to experience it at least once for themselves.

Glenorchy For fans of quaint little towns in the middle of nowhere, Glenorchy is an hour’s drive from Queenstown. This is nothing but a photo op to really capture the pristine beauty of the plains of South Island and experience Lake Wakatipu (NZ’s largest lake) in its full glory. After the day trip to Glenorchy, we came back to Queenstown. Regarding food, heed this warning. If you are in the habit of enjoying flavoured food, you are out of luck. Quality meat and vegetables are seasoned to give a strong earthy taste, which is the cuisine of choice in New Zealand. Your best bet is food chains and by the end of it, I stuck to McDonald’s for my nutritional needs. This does not mean I do not welcome you to try the local cuisine, I am just saying if you are desi like me and like your food cooked in an array of spices, New Zealand may be a tad bit disappointing. This is true for all except for one place. Hidden away in a nook in Queenstown is the Ferg Burger. The queue stretches through the block twice over and the wait time can be up to 2 hours (no wonder with how the rest of the food is). But it could possibly be the best burger that you will ever have and a worthy tribute to the NZ Angus we hear so much about. A close second is Vudu Café, another contender in Queenstown for your breakfast and coffee needs. As we headed back to Auckland to make the eventual journey back home to Pakistan, I imagined tossing a coin into a wishing fountain hoping to return to this land of great beauty one day. It is a place where the world comes to rest and takes on a heavenly appearance. At the end, all I will say is, I can try to put it in words or try to shoot it through my lens, but I assure you, I will not be able to do justice to the natural landscape and beauty of New Zealand. It is a sight to behold and is truly what I would call a sensory overload of colours and sound. The more you try to capture what you are experiencing, the more helpless you feel. So the smart thing to do is to put down your phone, take a deep breath and let the impossibly blue sky, the shockingly green grass, the surprisingly clean water, the three dimensional clouds, the rolling meadows and the never-ending horizon, overwhelm you.

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ENEVA THEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NO PLACE

LIKE HOME By Huma Sharifuddin

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the little details that make every day exciting. Swiss-born and raised Huma Sharifuddin offers a glimpse into her life in the city of her birth, Geneva. As we stroll through this wondrous city with her, this story takes us to see some amazing sights, meet some of her friends, taste delectable Swiss delicacies, shop at lovely boutiques and visit experiential art galleries. Photography: Huma Sharifuddin

REFLECTIONS t all happened 30 years ago when a newly married couple decided to move to Geneva. It turned out to be the best decision ever, as I ended up calling it my home city, second to none and in every sense of the word. I’ve never lost that sense of wonderment from my earliest memories of Lake Geneva. I remember very well running around as a kid with my childhood friend, Sidrah, and her many siblings. I would somehow always be found silently admiring the ducks, mesmerized by the breezy waves of the lake during our endless hide & seek rounds at la Perle du Lac – a park where our mums used to take us for picnics. Lake Geneva is so scenic. It is located in the north region of the famous Alps, making it Switzerland’s largest lake. The refreshing breeze of the lake takes away my daily stresses and standing there, letting it run through my hair, is almost like a meditation session – a perfect escape plan after a long and demanding day in the office. Working as a marketing strategist in a fast-moving environment, I need to keep myself energized through my delightful morning runs au quotidien in the beautiful paths of Jardin Botanique, surrounded by a variety of trees and flowers covered with snowflakes during winter, that will blind you with their bright colours in autumn, bloom in spring and flourish in summer. I also recall my sweet encounter there with Cecile, a professional yoga instructor. At dusk, I typically end up joining a couple of friends for after-works at one of my favourite fancy venues, Rooftop 42, located in the uber chic area of Rue du Rhône, overlooking the city and the majestic Jet d’Eau, Europe’s tallest fountain and Geneva’s famous landmark.

United Nations

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Geneva is also known as the City of Peace and home to the United Nations’ European head office. Spending a few months here will almost equal a bachelors degree in international relations, what with the multitude of nationalities represented here and the countless encounters one gets to experience. I have had some memorable interactions with newly arrived diplomats and their families at the Geneva Welcome Center Annual Gala. It was an enlightening experience to witness the extremely diverse cultural baggage of many high-ranking diplomats and members of permanent missions who did not shy away from dressing in their Azeri gabas, Indian saris, Pakistani shalwar kameez, Nigerian agbadas and many more. On numerous occasions, I have left the venue wondering how many native Swiss people I know in Geneva.

Jet dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Eau Fountain

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What I really admire about my hometown is the opposing contrast this charming city has to offer, and add to that the people that fill the streets. My Egyptian friend Aasma, who is a qualified pharmacist, and I love to check out out the latest designer pieces in the in-vogue and sparkly district of Rue du Rhône where we also end up spotting noisy supercars. A mandatory sweet treat calls in as we march through Rue du Marché, shopping at our favourite label stores. Amongst the plethora of Dorchester collection hotels surrounding the lake shores, we love ending our shopping spree with a typical English afternoon tea at the Hotel d’Angleterre with stunning interiors and lake views. I must say the flowery teacups are to die for! The historical old town of Geneva is a jewel of its own where I love catching up on a typical Saturday afternoon with my old, school-time comrade and friend, Aline who is half French and half Lebanese. The pebbled flooring, charming cafés, trendy boutiques, contemporary art galleries, farmers’ markets and the distancing melody of the accordion help Aline get some inspiration for her poetic writings. While she takes out her feathery pen and diary in Place Bourg du Four during coffee, I quickly make my way to Confiserie Arn for some fresh artisanal chocolates and biscuits.

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Try to plan a ski trip within an hour of central London, you’ll be lucky to make it beyond your local borough. Beautiful postcard-like pictures in your album is a nobrainer guarantee from my end! Some stunning scenic places can be reached just under an hour’s drive away from Geneva. On weekends, I usually like to winddown from the city mayhem and one of my ultimate go-to places is Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site covered with terraced vineyards stretching along the south-facing northern shores of Lake Geneva. Lavaux reminds me of a Tuscan holiday with landscapes full of greens, blues and colourful villas, almost idealizing my retirement life plans, in 2053…

It’s all about discovering and immersing yourself in this undiscovered city. The perks of living in Geneva are as many as a typical girl’s shoe and handbag collection. Just to name a few, the standard of living is high, we have a variety of lush parks, a beautiful lake, scenic landscapes, nearby mountains and a palatable choice of Swiss chocolates. The city life offers a filled agenda to fit touristic needs for different wallets. There’s this “je ne sais quoi” feeling about this place that’s not found elsewhere. I hope Geneva will become the next destination on your bucket list and that you’ll get to witness some of the above!

Geneva offers some of the best eateries. The casual eater will be spoilt for choice in the no-frills area of Pâquis while a variety of high-end Michelin starred restaurants such as the Il Lago at Four Seasons Geneva are available for the romantic couple in search of the ultimate refinement. To get the best of both worlds, I join my favourite girls at our favourite Café du Centre in Place du Molard to savour a scrumptious plate of fresh filets du perche du lac with pommes-frites, one of Geneva’s best culinary items. For the cherry on the cake, we usually finish our funfilled evening talks with a water pipe and oriental tea just next door at Tour du Molard, prepared by Hussain, hands-down the best shisha master in town. The warm yellow blankets provided against the chills brings together the perfect ingredients that will remind me of warm nights and long lazy dinners with a bunch of good-old friends under the stars. Finally, a trip to Switzerland is left incomplete if you’ve not tasted the country’s famous cheese fondue. With the fall and winter season approaching swiftly, I look forward to indulging in a rich but oh-so-satisfying pot of hot melted Swiss cheeses eaten by dipping bread using long-stemmed forks with the added help of some green tea for digestion!

GENEVA

Essentials:

Fraser Suites Geneva for the ideal accommodation in the city. Swiss Fondue at Edelweiss Hotel (alcohol free fondues are available upon request). A visit to La Roseraie (Rose Garden) in Parc de la Grange. Must-see St Pierre Cathedral in Old Town for stunning architectures and surroundings. Make a trip to Pointe de la Jonction to witness the two-toned rivers’ meeting point; where the great Rhône receieves the water of the Arve.

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Lake Geneva is so scenic. It is located in the north region of the famous Alps making it Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest lake.

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There they were. In a tribute to Gianni. Resplendent in tinselled, metallic Versace. If there was any supermodel line-up to kill all supermodel line-ups Donatella Versace, the powerhouse behind possibly the most knock ‘em dead glam label in the world, is the woman who could make it happen. During the finale of Versace’s Milan Fashion Week Show this fall, the fashion designer walked out on the runway with Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer and Helena Christensen. The girls Linda Evangelista famously said never got out of bed for less than $10,000 a day. Both Campbell and Crawford had been a part of George Michael’s Freedom ‘90, the song they walked to on the catwalk. In Pakistan, we too had our share of “it girls” in the same era. Iraj Manzoor, Atiya Khan, Vaneeza Ahmed, Alia “Bibi” Latif, Aliya Zaidi, and later Iman Ali were the top divas of the ramp. Ayeshah Alam, with her generous mouth and laughing eyes was the alternative, unusual option for fashion photo shoots. Aaminah Haq didn’t quite have the height for the ramp but that face could launch a thousand designers and dramas. 132

Super GIRLS By Fifi Haroon

No one has quite achieved the same superstar status as the girls of the late eighties and early nineties with broad-shouldered bliss, teased big hair and high style. Fashion witches with the power to enchant, beguile and hold us all spellbound. So as Donatella salutes the forever supermodels of the West we salute those of the East. Following them down their new paths in different corners of the world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Houston, New York and Hong Kong. A little taste of how life moves on but stars still dazzle. A special thank-you to Tapu Javeri for sharing photos of Aaminah Haq, Aliya Zaidi and Ayeshah Alam Khan from his book Tapulicious.

STYLE RULES

Talking

Texan W

Shortly after I interview Ayeshah Alam, Texas is hit by a massive hurricane. Houston, the city where she lives, is drowning in the impact of Hurricane Harvey. I watch it thousands of miles away on the other side of the pond in London, astonished, worried. But if there is anyone who can take care of herself it is Ayeshah Alam Khan. She laughs it off when I call her and informs me that her valiant Pathan husband was silly enough to brave the torrents and get stranded. Ayeshah stayed put at home and watched movies on television. I remember many moons ago when she walked into my office clutching a portfolio of early work. At that time she was particularly gamine looking. Not the kind of face Pakistani modelling was used to at all. Not skinny, not tall, not at all run-of-the-mill beautiful, but beautiful nonetheless. With a big laugh and a jaunty, elfin face. And fiercely determined that I should see her photos and consider using her in a fashion shoot. Alam’s career spanned many fashion shoots till she scored her own morning programme and also talk show on a local TV channel called “No Reservations.” Alam took to talking like a duck to water. She swam around gleefully, splashing the waters, cornering and flooring guests with unabashed frankness. She asked Zeba Bakhtiar about ex-husbands and called out Maria B for supporting Zaid Hamid – and got away with it. What made Alam one of the more unusual models then successful talk show presenters of the 2000s was she is a personality rather than a face. She would laugh wholeheartedly on camera and off it. Something between a giggle and a guffaw. Not model behaviour – but that’s exactly what set everyone at ease. Cut to many years later and Alam has given up a highly successful career in television presenting to relocate first to Vietnam for a year, then permanently to Houston, Texas. Her daughters from a previous marriage with Junoon’s bass guitarist Brian O’ Connell are at college on the East Coast. And Ayeshah Alam has rather unexpectedly taken up selling retirement insurance. Her people skills have come in useful again. After all this too is talking to people. Except this time, it’s talking Texan…

hen you left Pakistan you were at the height of your career. Did you want to move at that time or was it circumstances?

Look, modelling for me was more a social commentary; it wasn’t about being known as the most beautiful model. It was more about let’s be a rebel and shock people, I wanted to ruffle feathers. It was not something I ever took seriously. I was never comfortable with the whole celebrity thing. Moving away was about better opportunities for my girls, about giving them different exposure. Those days Pakistan was getting more and more Talibanized so I felt it was time for us to leave. I loved the anonymity. Just being able to go out without people saying “hai ye kitni moti ho gayi hae” or “kitni budhi ho gayi hae” was heaven. I mean life happens, we all age. Deal with it.I 135

STYLE RULES Before you got to Texas you spent a year and a half in Vietnam. It is not a country Pakistanis are that familiar with. Was it a real voyage of discovery for you? I enjoyed the newness and getting to know somewhere totally different. I also discovered that doing nothing was not for me. I thought I would love the begum lifestyle but after a while I found the whole ex-pat thing boring and was itching to do something with my life. You’ve got three grown-up daughters from two previous marriages who are now studying or working. How does that make you feel? Old! I’m now living vicariously though them. It’s lovely to see them spread their wings and start to fly and to hopefully achieve more than I ever did for sure. Don’t put yourself down. You moved on from being a model to a talk show host, and many people who tried to do that weren’t able to carry it off successfully. I think it was my ability to speak my mind. That instinct to ruffle feathers wherever I was or whichever field I was in. That worked in my favour. So what are you doing now in Houston? Would you believe I’m a retirement specialist? Whaaaat? What’s that? I help people figure out their retirement and make sure they have a decent enough income to live on. I always thought that’s something smart people did. You know, finance. I had a giggle to myself thinking my friends in Pakistan would be rolling on the floor laughing. Ayeshah Alam – a financial advisor! But honestly I’m loving it. I have a mug of coffee in my hands right now or I would have been rolling on the floor too. See what I mean! But apparently I have a flair for it and I am pretty darned good at it. I got into car sales first, believe it or not. And that taught me a lot. I think everyone should work in retail at least once. I can see you as a car salesperson actually because you aren’t shy with meeting new people and telling them what’s good for them. (Laughs) But it was a lot of mazdoori. I had to start somewhere. Having no degree to my name was a setback. I remember calling a friend and saying the only thing I have to show for myself is I was a celebrity in Pakistan but in America who cares? He jokingly said, oh there’s a car showroom near me, why don’t you try there? They wanted to do a background check. When it came out clean I said great, now you know I’m not a criminal, do I get the job? 136

That’s brilliant. I guess he figured you were pushy enough to be in the field. Yes but I hated it! Then I got some feedback of people talking in Pakistan saying, oh look poor Ayeshah Alam has become a car salesperson. And I thought are you kidding me? I’m earning my own money, it’s honest work, what’s your problem? Interesting to see how people in Pakistan respond to someone wanting to drop the princess lifestyle and standing up on their own two feet. There were always some women within the modelling industry who men had as trophy girlfriends. And part of the deal was that they financed these princess lifestyles. I’m not saying it was rampant, just that it existed. Of course it did and I was never one of those girls. I remember a lot of my model friends were buying designer clothes worth thousands and I was more worried about paying my bills. I was on my own, I didn’t have a sugar daddy to fall back on. Is there anything you miss about the old life? I miss my friends. And maybe having the time and energy to stay up all night. Other than that – no. Everyone assumed that I was a wild thing. It’s just an image I liked to project. I don’t miss the fame. Recently a friend of mine, the actor Umair Rana, was in town with his wife and we went to a Pakistani restaurant for breakfast and everyone was coming up for autographs. I was looking at it from afar thinking I’m so happy for him but I’m really glad not to be him! I think as a generation we were instrumental in changing a lot of what was happening there, we paid our dues. As far as the media and fashion is concerned we were the innovators. And I’m very proud to be part of that. You broke new ground as a model because you were so distinctive. And when you went into TV presenting I think people didn’t question the transformation that much because you were a natural. You didn’t look foolish asking questions. I was very blessed with a lack of fear and an abundance of confidence. That’s a great combo. If you do anything confidently people buy into it. How is it being married working out for you? Third time lucky? It’s fantastic. I’ve been through a couple of rough marriages and the chances of a successful marriage decrease with each failed one. But I’ve been very fortunate. My husband is a Pathan from a conservative family and I am realising that I am far more traditional than I thought. The first two years is when we had the most fights because we didn’t know where the other person was coming from. You have to learn. And being away from Pakistan gives you a lot more freedom to do that without prying eyes. For a good marriage you have to share the same values, but you have to know what those values are first. That’s the trick.

Houston Ayeshah Alam

What are your favourite Houston hotspots? Rudy’s does a mean brisket. Agora coffee shop is just the coolest place. What’s your desi food stop in Houston? Yasmeen Café and Bismillah. Yasmeen Café has the best nihari and breakfast on weekends. Yasmeen Café satisfies my craving for chaat. If you’re looking for peace in Houston where do you go? Hmm...there is a lake in my community which I like to go to sit by sometimes to reflect. What’s your commute to work like? The past year it was about an hour but now it will hopefully go down to about 15-30 minutes. Houston is huge. The average commute is 30 minutes so the fact that my journey to work can be about 15 minutes on a good day is bhangra worthy! Your Houston evening ritual? When I get home I either cook dinner or see if there are leftovers. Then I sit back on my sofa, put on the TV and catch up on shows with my husband. Sometimes I bring home some work so I can leave earlier. What’s your favourite weekend getaway? In the summer there are plenty of natural water holes to which one can escape. I enjoy going river tubing! But now we are planning to venture out further. I want to rent a cabin up in hill country. That’s what I call glamping it! Favourite Houston art space or museum? The Museum of Fine Arts in Houston is phenomenal. They just had a Rob Mueck exhibit which was absolutely fabulous Houston togs – what do you wear when out and about? Summer dresses – Houston is too hot for jeans in the summer.

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Changing 138

Places

It takes a lot to get Aaminah Haq to talk. She doesn’t see the point of giving an interview because she has opted out of a public life. And she doesn’t want to live in the past. I tell her this isn’t about the old Aaminah Haq, this is about the new Aaminah Haq. The woman she has become, not the girl she used to be. Two days and many FB messages later, suddenly, she agrees. Once she decides to talk, she bares all. There are no barriers, no cover-ups, no pretence. Pandora’s box is open. Skin and bones and flesh, hesitations and contradictions, old loves and new self-love, fathers and mothers, friendships and foes, wounds and laughter, Aaminah Haq does nothing by halves. It’s all or nothing. Haq was a STAR at a time when many were just starlets pretending to give off light. Despite being several inches shorter than many of her contemporaries, Aaminah Haq commanded attention. And not just because she was the daughter of the infamous Sher-e-Punjab Ghulam Mustafa Khar. She inherited his roar even though they were not on the best of terms. Like him she was vocal, expressive, animated and used to stealing the show. Haq was everyone’s first model of choice for music videos: she played a gender maverick in Faakhir’s “Mahi We,” was devastatingly beautiful as a Tharri girl in Junaid Jamshed’s “Ankhon Ko” and conquered hearts as the coquettish gold digger in Awaaz’s “Mr Fraudiye.” Drama serials brought her another level of popularity; she was one of the first Lux girls who rose to fame via TV and not film. Today Aaminah Haq is a shopgirl and proud of it. As she should be. She has fashion clients from Russia to Brazil and has moved on from strutting on the red carpet herself to teaching others how to be the cynosure.

The wild child is all grown up. ou were at the height of your career and one day you just upped and left?

I didn’t tell anyone we were leaving. I didn’t say any goodbyes. My ex-husband (Ammar Belal) had got into the Masters programme at Parsons so I decided to go with him. But there was more to it. I had reached the top of my profession in Pakistan and didn’t know where the hell to go after that. I think I was living out my own myth, which was unbearable. Trying to be Aaminah Haq was an impossible task because everyone had an opinion on what she should say or how she should look. I really didn’t want to spend the rest of my life doing talk shows or plays where I was this simpering mess of a woman needing male approval. There were times where I just couldn’t mouth the dialogues given to me. I was at war with myself over what I was projecting.

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STYLE RULES Still it was a huge move – just walking away from all that fame and fortune. Many people wouldn’t speak to me because they thought I had run away from my life, that I was a has-been. How is working a regular job shameful? I am a luxury specialist at Bloomingdales and there are people from the Pakistan fashion scene who would seek me out to snigger. That’s Aaminah Haq, she was somebody once. In the early days when someone from Pakistan would visit Bloomingdales I would run around the store trying to avoid them but then I woke up one day and thought – wait a minute, I’m the one living in New York, I’m the one who has broken away from this image where I couldn’t do more than pout my lips and thrust my hips forward. I’m someone who has been able to make something of my life. Who are they? You and designer Ammar Belal were together for 12 years. But now you’re divorced. Can you remain on reasonable terms with an ex? I got a lot of grief from so many people who couldn’t understand why I wanted to be married to Ammar. But he was and is wonderful. When I look back at my marriage I think I was very blessed. It was not a marriage where I felt handicapped or kept captive in any way. Eventually we were two people who sat down and broke it off amicably. I think we’re better people today. But we could only do that because it was just us in New York sorting out our issues and doing what was best for us. In Pakistan it always felt like a million other people were in bed with us. Talking about your modelling days, while you did a fair amount of conventional stuff, you also did some path-breaking shoots like the glam rock one with Tapu Javeri. For me the shoots were my art, it was my way of expressing myself as an artist. I went on an incredible journey with Tapu Javeri. The work we did reflects how close we were. If my house was burning Tapu would be on speed dial. Many of the other photographers in my early days bullied me. For them I was this dumpy kid from Lahore. It was always Vinny or Iraj they preferred. But they constantly tried to pit us against each other. The night I won the Lux Style Award was when I finally got my due. It was liberating. What was it like when you got to New York? What did you do for money? New York brought clarity to my life. Bloomingdales was the second job I applied for and I got it. I am a luxury specialist. I collaborate with Chanel, Dior and all the luxury brands on the fourth floor. We curate wardrobes for exclusive clients and stylists. The training for the job is rigorous and endless. You constantly attend fashion seminars. You spend time at Chanel HQ learning the two hundred steps it takes to make a Chanel shoe. You begin to understand all 140

the dynamics of the business, the thematic contents of a collection. I always loved fashion but it was only in New York that I understood it. The work is global. You’re dealing with clients who fly in from Buenos Aires or St Petersburg to buy an entire season. I have my own client book which I have built up over three years. We’re not allowed to say who but at the last Met Ball we managed to source a stunning pair of architectural Fendi shoes from the runway for a celebrity client. She was a sensation! It’s like being given a canvas to paint. How tough was it for a Pakistani girl to make it in New York? You have to use your wits. You must have faith in yourself. At the end of the day it wasn’t anybody’s sifarish or someone’s maama or aunty putting in a good word for me. I got it on my own merit. How did your friends respond? My real friends have been very supportive. In Pakistan maybe I was bored and needed something to keep me busy but I don’t need 700 friends any more. Have you ever thought of doing a project in Pakistan – things have changed substantially since you left… I’ve never wanted to go back with my tail between my legs. Though some thought I should when Ammar and I broke up. They said oh you’re still young, you can get married again and have children. But I wasn’t looking to grow babies. I wanted to grow up. You’ve also had a very contentious relationship with your father, the politician Ghulam Mustafa Khar? Here’s the thing – I think we’re both finally at peace. I had to do a little bit of growing up and realize everyone can’t be exactly who you want them to be. People have said really crappy things about my father but I also know we love each other and at the end of the day that’s what really matters. There would be times when my father would call me out of the blue when I was really having a terrible time. When you’re a supermodel everyone allows you to misbehave. It’s time to heal – you can’t be angry all your life. I wanted to ask you about body image. You’ve been all sizes. The skinniest I’ve been is when I first started dating Ammar. That’s the hottest I’d ever looked and it was also the time I was the unhappiest and really struggling with some demons. I had to look into the mirror and say, Aaminah is this really how you want to be? Be it eating or substance abuse. I didn’t like whom I had become. I learnt to be nicer to myself. And if that meant not being a size zero or a size four then so be it. And if that means I’m a curvy woman and I can’t possibly squeeze into the clothes that I wore then that’s okay. The world isn’t going to collapse. Your worth isn’t dependent on the adulation you get from others. We all change. Aaminah Haq at 42 is not what she was at 25.

New York Aaminah Haq

What are your favourite NYC hotspots? I avoid so called ”hotspots” as it’s kind of a cliché and touristy to frequent one, especially if you are over 30. I prefer going to neighbourhood gems that are fun and full of character, and moreover are devoid of Instagrammers constantly posting selfies because they want others to know they managed to get in. So no Tripadvisor suggestions for me! What’s your desi food stop in NYC? Kabab Kings and Haandi. I am mad about the biryani there! If you’re looking for peace in NYC where do you go? My R&R begins the moment I walk into my apartment. What’s your commute to work like? I’m fortunate that my daily commute isn’t longer than about 10-15 mins. Your NYC evening ritual? Walk into the apartment, take off my shoes and jacket, play with my cat Barack, check on the garden, put on some music and pop in the shower to wash the day away. What’s your favourite weekend getaway? My bed.

instagram: @

lahaq

Favourite NYC art space or museum? The Neue Gallery - I love, love, love it. The restaurant there is also one of my favourite places to eat. Also, The Frick. New York togs – what do you wear when out and about? I spend 5-6 days a week in a work environment so what I wear most days is tailored to that with the option to carry over to dinner. A tailored jacket or fancy cardigan with a silk blouse, worn with suit pants or a pencil skirt. I like to keep my look clean, and rarely wear any jewellery to work, unless I have a big presentation. Shoes: kitten heels, loafers or a moto boot depending on what I’m wearing it with.

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Shape of you The

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She has the longest legs I have ever seen. They go on and on. Don’t tell me you’re not jealous. One of the most successful catwalk models of any era in Pakistan needs those kind of legs. The only other model who could compete was Iraj Manzoor, whose career spanned several generations of fashion statements. Together, they reigned over the ramp. They were our Naomi-Linda-ChristyHelena-Cindy-Claudia all rolled into two. Aliya Zaidi still models periodically, last seen striding down the catwalk in a dramatic Shamaeel ensemble a few years ago. Her in-your-face “glam-boyance” (new word alert) can be a bit intimidating, but it is a 100% fit for the show-off nature of the ramp and the more glamorous designers. Zaidi, as she is more commonly known in a fashion industry full of Aliyas, can be seen AND heard; it was never her fate to be a wallflower. As the years go by Zaidi has learnt to flaunt her sexuality with devastating precision. She’s also filled out, the hips began to curve out wantonly, her limbs seemed more Amazonian and undulating. Two kids and a lifetime later, Aliya Zaidi can prowl with the cultured knowledge of a panther. Simultaneously, her Facebook page began to read like a who’s who of the rich and famous in Hong Kong. Her holiday photos and infinite selfies betrayed a persevering wanderlust for the most exotic hotspots in the world. Zaidi today is sheer drama; she is also a fiercely dedicated mother, having unexpectedly opted to be a stay-at-home mom quite early in her career. Yet in some ways, over time I have found it challenging to distinguish her from her image and images. Chatting over the crackling on Skype, she seems distant at first. Maybe a busy world does that to friends; the currents take us adrift and we sail towards our own sunsets, she on Hong Kong time, I on GMT. The Aliya Zaidi of today summarizes herself for mass consumption; it’s a lesson in quality control. For a person who seems utterly sociable she paradoxically also clings to her privacy; you will see the Aliya she wills and not a centimetre more – but at five feet 9 inches she already stands tall. “The fragility is there, but it’s not for the world to see,” she confesses. Maybe it has receded to a safe place or maybe she’s all grown up and knows this is an interview, not a friendly chat. Either way I miss her. That regime-free, funny chatterbox Aliya Zaidi I used to giggle with when she (occasionally) skipped lightly off the pedestal.

hen you left Pakistan you were at the height of your career. Did you want to move at that time or was it circumstances?

I left my modelling career at its peak, got married and moved to New York. I became a streaming media specialist for a big corporate and had the best time. But I would leave my son sleeping in the morning, come home at night and he was already sleeping. I was essentially making money to pay someone to look after my son! So we decided I would stay home and focus on the baby.

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STYLE RULES I always saw you as an ambitious person. But you opted to be a stay-at-home mum? It’s a different stage of your life. In Pakistan there is a great support system when you have a baby. But in New York you have to do it all yourself. My mother worked. She was a principal of many colleges. I would come home from school and she wasn’t there. But in Pakistan you have everyone from aunts to inlaws to pitch in. In New York it’s just you. So why the move to Hong Kong? It’s the other end of the world from New York. We moved to Hong Kong about eleven years ago when I was pregnant with my second child. It was a great opportunity and a total leap of faith. It was a difficult time, my mother was very ill. I was seven months pregnant and put on bed rest. But I tell people to give themselves time in a new place. That first year will always be about adjusting. I’ve been in HK for eleven years and there’s no where else I’d rather be. You’ve now lived twenty years outside Pakistan, so almost as many years as you’ve lived in Pakistan. Correct but my heart is there. I am a Karachi girl. It’s my place, it’s my people. I live it up. You know me, I live big, I live large. You can leave Karachi but Karachi doesn’t leave you. I have a friend here in Hong Kong who calls me Karachi not Aliya. So you are working now, yes? My children are my priority so whatever I do has to work around that. I do charity events and I style food – there was this casino in Macau where I styled the shoot for 19 restaurants. But for the main part I buy properties that need TLC, do them up and rent them out. I can’t imagine going back to working for someone again. I don’t like buying places that are ready to go. I sit and work with architects, getting permits and all the nitty gritty. It’s about vision and transformation. That’s what excites me. What was the first property renovation you did? And the most recent one? The first was in New York on the Upper East Side – a gut renovation one-bed. Somebody had been living in it all their lives and it had not been updated since the sixties. I could knock down walls, put in pocket doors. I just did up a beach house in Malibu with light floors, made it white and clean. Now it’s a place in Hong Kong. Property values here are beyond New York and London – people from China walk in with suitcases full of cash to instant-buy.

wake up to the sounds of waves. This one is full of colour, it has all my art and sculpture acquisitions over the years peppering it. This is me: I’m all colour, loud and fun! My heart is like that. My personality is like that. I love fashion, I love glamour. I will dress up even if it is to go to the market. When I think of you in your modelling days in Karachi I remember you like that on the catwalk but you were much more toned down in real life. As an 18 or 19 year-old student I obviously didn’t have the confidence or the experience or the cash. My values are the same. I am trying to make a smaller world for myself. When I lost both my parents within 7 weeks I think the barriers went up. I cut down on my friends. You don’t need as many people as you think you do. I am trying to create a smaller, richer world for myself This is a question not an accusation. Would you say that all your friends while being ethnically diverse in a melting pot of a city, all come from the same social class? You’re right. Hong Kong is the financial hub of Asia. To live here you have to be able to afford the rent and even the groceries. Nothing is grown here, it’s all imported. The school fees are ridiculously high. You’re brought together in a particular class just by definition of being in a place like Hong Kong. In New York you could be sitting next to a millionaire on the subway. Have you picked up any Chinese? I speak Cantonese. I have a driver and car but I use public transport. It’s not like Karachi where everyone shops at Aghas. I like going to the local markets to pick up vegetables. And I go to China for the tailors because I like designing sometimes. That’s what I like about living here. Hong Kong is a crazy, chaotic place. You were the skinniest girl I knew and now you have curves. This filling out of Aliya Zaidi lends you new drama... I feel more attractive now than I did in my modelling days. I am very happy with the body I have today. And so is my husband! We’ve talked for nearly half an hour now but you just mentioned your husband. How is married life this many years down the line? Asghar makes the money but he doesn’t need to worry about his clothes, his family, his food or his holidays. I do it all. Is that because you’re a caring person or is that because you’re a controlling person?

How is your own house different?

Both. If I didn’t care I wouldn’t control.

For eight years I was in a Hong Kong high-rise on the 57th floor. An ultra-modern space with 20-feet high ceilings. Now I’ve moved to the beach and

So people who you care about have to worry?

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Yes!

Hong Kong Aliya Zaidi

What are your favourite HK hotspots? The Pulse in Repulse Bay, Wyndham Street/Lan Kwai Fong for bar hopping. Four Seasons rooftop for soaking up sunshine. I go to the House of Qi for my weekly chilli fix – have to order the whole crab, the veggie in chilli oil and the chilli prawns. What’s your desi food stop in HK? Either home or one of my friend’s homes. Unfortunately, the desi food at commercial establishments in Hong Kong is not TDF. If you’re looking for peace in HK where do you go? Either the beach or a two-hour decadent massage – the joys of living in Asia. What’s your commute to work like? I love public transport here, it’s clean and efficient. Your HK evening ritual? Dinner with my kids, listening to their daily stories. What’s your favourite weekend getaway? The beach, so many close by. Hong Kong has a lot of natural beauty and we love to hike and swim. I love where we live, Repulse Bay which is right on the beach. I just love the beach and the mountains Favourite HK art space or museum? I love the Science Museum, followed by a walk on the promenade overlooking the harbour and views of the magnificent Hong Kong skyline. Hong Kong togs – what do you wear when out and about? Before midday it’s mainly yoga gear and tracks. But I love dressing up second half of day. Love that Hong Kong is a dress-up town. I enjoy wearing bright colours when the weather is grey. Probably something from Cavalli, Dolce and Gabbana, Milly, Pucci or Halston Heritage.

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THE FASHION FIX

Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Suit Up Deepak Perwani with

Designer: Deepak Perwani Photography & Styling: Khawar Riaz Model: Salman Riaz Location: Tomb of Jahangir, Lahore

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DESTINATIONS

X FPW17

Bigger, better, brighter – this year saw Fashion Pakistan Week soar to new heights as it kick-started the festive season with an outlook as stylish as it was international. Shamaeel Ansari’s opulent off-site show “The Blue Tulip” and Sana Safinaz’s grand finale “Roses and Rue” heralded the start of solo shows within Pakistan’s fashion weeks, following in the footsteps of how it’s done in New York, Milan and Paris. In between, 17 of the country’s top designers sent their latest formal and bridal collections down the ramp in a 3-day extravaganza of fashion.

THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 OPENING SHOW Shamaeel Ansari - “The Blue Tulip”

Andaleeb Rana, Fareshteh Aslam and Shamaeel Ansari Ehtesham Ansari

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Mohsin Sayeed

Shamaeel Ansari and Bunto Kazmi

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 DAY 1 Misha Lakhani

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Aamna Aqeel

Erum Khan

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 DAY 1

Obaid Sheikh

Saira Rizwan

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Suffuse x Jaipur and Co.

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 DAY 2

Sanam Chaudhri

Emraan Rajput

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Wardha Saleem

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 DAY 2

Sadaf Malaterre

HEM

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Deepak Perwani

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 DAY 3 Tena Durrani

Nauman Afreen

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Saira Shakira

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 DAY 3

Adnan Pardesy

Maheen Khan

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DESTINATIONSxFPW17 Grand Finale Sana Safinaz - “Roses and Rue”

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 Grand Finale Sana Safinaz - “Roses and Rue”

Tariq Amin and Attiya Khan

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Asma Chishty

Bilal Muneer, Safinaz Muneer Sasha Barket and Raza Muneer

Mohsin Sayeed

Mariam Dawood and Soha Hafeez

Zahraa Saifullah

Maheen Khan

Anoushey Ashraf

Sana Bucha Yasmeen Hashmi

Sadaf Malaterre

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THE FASHION FIX

DESTINATIONSxFPW17 Grand Finale

Mehek Saeed

Team Sana Safinaz

Sania Maskatiya and Sarah Tabani

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Sadaf Muneer Jalil and Musharaf Hai

Iman Ahmed and Rizwan ul Haq

Sehr Pirzada and Maha Ahmad Hussain

Tanya Bashir, Samira Dada and Zohra

Ayesha Jatoi

Noor Majid, Sehr Kazmi and Zevair Hashwani

Natasia Khalid

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TALK OF THE TOWN

KARACHI

Saba Hameed, Ahmad Ali Butt, Humayun Saeed, Urwa Hocane and Mehwish Hayat

Punjab Nahi Jaungi Punjab Nahin Jaungi has struck gold at the box office by becoming one of the year’s biggest cinematic releases. We bring you a snapshot of the film’s star-studded premieres across the country where leading ladies and DESTINATIONS’ cover stars Mehwish Hayat and Urwa Hocane glammed up the red carpet along with leading man Humayun Saeed.

Mahira Khan

Mohib Mirza Deepak Perwani and Huma Adnan

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Mawra Hocane

Mr and Mrs Wajahat Rauf

Mehwish, Fahad Mustafa and Urwa

Frieha Altaf

Mr and Mrs Humayun with Sana

Madiha Imam and Nausheen Shah

Ali Rehman Khan Aijaz Aslam Shehroz and Syra

Gohar Rasheed and Aisha Khan

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TALK OF THE TOWN

LAHORE

Qasim, Irfan, Ahmed, Mehwish, Nadeem, Humayun, Urwa and Sana

Mehwish Hayat

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Musarrat Misbah

Mr and Mrs Vasay Chaudhry

Samra Muslim

Shiraz Uppal

Ushna Shah

Farhan and Urwa

Tanya and Natty

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TALK OF THE TOWN

LAHORE

Momina Mustehsanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Birthday Singing sensation and one of BBCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 100 Women for 2017, Momina Mustehsan threw a carnival-themed birthday bash in Lahore for friends and family.

Ali Zafar, Ayesha Fazli and kids

Daneese Ali, Momina and Samah

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Zarmina Masud

Danyal Zafar

Maha, Maryam, Usman, Momina and Danyal

Kazim Mustehsan, Momina and Huma Must ehsan

Eman, Ayesha, Eesha and Jannat Nafisa, Sadaf and Bia Nazish Butt

Momina Mustehsan

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