Join the fiesta Celebrate Mexican Independence Day by Destino Magazine

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

Publisher Owen Perry Editor in Chief Dana Gimenez PR and Marketing Manager Dana Gimenez Art Director Fabiani Mendez Writers / Contributors / Photographers

6 1838 14 42 BAJA 101

TOP BEACHES

viva mexico!

loreto

Letter From The Editor

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Useful Information Things To Do Surf is Up in Baja Spanish Lesson Instaworthy 22 Top Beaches in South Baja 46 Expat Chronicles 47 Maps CHECK OUT THE EXPANDED DESTINO DIGITAL ISSUE HERE: DON’T MISS: ISLAND HOPPING IN LORETO • LOS CABOS REAL ESTATE • AND MORE!

Dear readers, As you know, Mexicans know how to throw a party, and in September and October, we have a lot to celebrate!! During September, you will see Viva Mexico signs and Mexican Flags commemorating Mexico’s Independence Day. In addition, you will enjoy finding more about the history and traditions and how you can have your own ¨Noche Mexicana¨ in the article ¨Viva Mexico join the Fiesta¨ written by the talented Claudia Velo. All That’s Fishy is always a favorite written by That Baja Guy- Gary Graham, with Gary’s knowledge about fishing in the Baja and excellent coverage of the most important fishing tournaments like the world-famous Bisbee’s Black and Blue taking place this October. Having this said, our cover combines both Mexican traditional folk art and the fishing season with a unique design of a brightly colored Alebrije Marlin created by Fabiani Mendez, Destino’s Art Director. Be sure to look for the new Expat Chronicles written by Bobbie Coray. We have fun, informative Instagram and Facebook stories every day about things happening in Los Cabos and Loreto; be sure not to miss them. I am delighted to announce Destino Magazine’s 1st Annual “Best Of Cabo” Contest; visit www.destinoloscabos.com to see all the categories and vote. I hope you have an excellent time enjoying paradise. Sincerely, Dana

Garry Graham Claudia Velo Bobbie Coray Mariel Santullano Diego Urquiza Web and IT Management Melomec Studios Distribution Christian Jimenez Graphic Designer Fabiani Mendez Advertising Account Executives

Yoselin Hideroa Amador Christian Jimenez Amy Wills Editor’s Contact:

dana@destinoloscabos.com

FOLLOW US: @DestinoMagazine @destinoloscabos @destinoloscabos @DestinoMagazine For advertising rates and placement, please contact: advertising@destinoloscabos.com (624) 105-9700 DESTINO GROUP SA de CV

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DESTINATIONS Each town or city in Baja California Sur is different and unique. Road trips in Baja are part of the culture and are very easy to do for someone that is just visiting. Below is a brief description of some of the main areas and destinations to visit, but there is much more to see!

Cabo San Lucas

Jacques Cousteau described the Sea of Cortez as “the aquarium of the world.” It is said that eons ago, back when the Earth and Continents were still taking their shape, the edge of Mexico split from the mainland to form the Gulf of California and the Baja Peninsula. This allowed the Pacific Ocean to rush into the gap and create the Sea of Cortez, or as some call it, Mother Nature’s own fish trap. Hundreds of varieties of fish and mammals found their way into this “trap” and either stayed in the warm shallow waters or ventured down into the cool two mile-deep San Andreas Fault. For millenniums, the Colorado River has been dragging its rich minerals and nutrients into the Sea of Cortez, aiding the living species to thrive in these waters. In Southern Baja, however, it’s not just about the ocean. In this naturally magical place the mountains meet the desert and the desert meets the ocean. The Sierra de la Laguna is a mountain range that lies at the southern end of the peninsula, where at above 800 meters in elevation dry forests transition to pine-oak forests and you can find wild mushrooms, wild horses and even deer.

The Baja Peninsula includes two different states: Baja California Norte and Baja California Sur. The Los Cabos municipality is in Baja California Sur and it encompasses the southernmost tip of the peninsula, from Todos Santos, Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo, to the East Cape area. La Paz is the State Capital. If you take a look at the “The Tip of Southern Baja” map on page 24 you can see that the highways and towns form a loop, which makes for an ideal road trip. The Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez meet at the very tip of the peninsula. On the Pacific side the waves are much larger and more powerful than on the Sea of Cortez, the beaches and the sand are different and it’s usually a few degrees cooler, which is very pleasant during the warm summer months. Los Cabos means “the capes” in Spanish.

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This tourist friendly town, also just known as “Cabo,” is located on the tip of the Baja California peninsula and is full of entertainment for every age and liking. The Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean meet at Land’s End, where you can observe the beautiful rock formations and the famous Cabo Arch. In Cabo San Lucas you can find Medano Beach (the liveliest beach in the Los Cabos area), an impressive marina and countless restaurants and bars that keep the town alive day and night.

San José del Cabo

Walking around downtown San José will allow you to experience a traditional Mexican town. You will find yourself surrounded by colorful buildings and quaint cobblestone streets that lead to the town’s picturesque zócalo (main plaza). Over the years, San José has become an artistic and cultural centre with numerous fine art galleries in its downtown art district as well as world-class restaurants. San José has a beautiful estuary where you can take a horseback ride to explore this natural peserve that is home to many different bird species.

The Corridor

The corridor is the 40 km highway that connects Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo (about a 20 minute drive). Along this highway you can find various hotels, luxury ocean front homes, and championship golf courses. Have your camera ready and make a roadside stop at the Costa Azul view-point for photo opportunities and a refreshing coco frío (cold coconut).

Todos Santos

Located on the Pacific Ocean side of the peninsula, Todos Santos is an oasis where artists and surfers flock to enjoy the culture and excellent surf. Home to the famous Hotel California, this charming town offers great restaurants

and a cooler climate than Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo due to the breezes coming from the Pacific.

East Cape

People often call it “the old Cabo” because of its pristine beaches and small fishing towns such as Buena Vista and Los Barriles. The East Cape begins just east of San José and extends about 100 miles up the Sea of Cortez coast. Sixty miles outside of San José is the Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park, a Nationally Protected coral reef that offers outstanding snorkeling and scuba diving. Very popular for fishing and surfing, the East Cape also attracts kite surfers, campers and those who just want to get away from it all.

La Paz

La Paz is the capital of the state of Baja California Sur and is known for its warm people and beautiful beaches. This authentic Mexican city (as well as the general south Baja region) has been rated as one of the safest in Mexico and still maintains the small town feel that is very welcoming for tourists. La Paz is a departure point for tours and charters to the stunning Espiritu Santo Island as well as whale watching excursions. Stroll down the colorful malecón (boardwalk), walk hundreds of feet in waist-highwater at Balandra beach or have a fine dining experience; La Paz has a lot to offer.

Loreto

Loreto offers the ideal setting for those who long to escape to an “authentic” Mexico. Rich in history, Loreto is known for its historic missions, such as the enchanting Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto, the first Califonia mission that was built in 1697. The spectacular national marine preserve of the Bay of Loreto includes five breathtaking islands and marine life is greatly abundant. For those who are partial to adventures on land, there is plenty of hiking and biking, making Loreto the ultimate eco-tourism destination.

USEFUL INFORMAITON

IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS

CURRENCY Dollars are accepted almost everywhere and you will get your change back in pesos. The exchange rate varies every day, but some places have a set rate posted. You can exchange dollars for pesos at the airport, but also a very easy way to get pesos is to simply withdraw money from an ATM. Bank ATMs give the daily exchange rate (best possible rate). Examples include Banorte, Bancomer, Santander, Banamex, Banregio and HSBC. Non-bank ATMs located in the streets or the marina will charge higher fees. Some ATMs only give you dollars, some only pesos and some give you the option to withdraw both. Pay close attention to what currency you’re withdrawing and try to get as much cash as possible in one transaction to avoid paying high fees.

CASH OR CARD? Visa, Mastercard and American Express credit cards are generally accepted, but you often run into cash only establishments. Always ask beforehand and carry cash just in case. Keep in mind your bank will most likely charge you international transaction fees if you pay with your card.

HOW DO I DIAL? Local area codes: Los Cabos: (624), Todos Santos and La Paz: (612) - Loreto: (613) To dial to other countries: 00 + country code (1, 2 or 3 digits) + number From a Mexican land line or cell phone: To a Mexican long distance number: 01 + 3 digit area code + 7 digit number To a Mexican cell phone number: 3 digit area code + 7 digit number To a U.S. phone number: 00 + 1 + 3 digit area code + 7 digit number From your U.S. cell phone: To a Mexican land line or cell phone: 011 52 + 3 digit area code + number To a U.S. phone number: 00 + 1 + 3 digit area code + number Some U.S. cell phone carriers have arrangements with Mexican carriers and when you travel here your cell phone uses their towers. If this is your case, you will have to dial as if you had a Mexican phone. U.S. TOLL FREE NUMBERS (International rates will apply): To a 1 (800): 00 + 1 + 880 + phone number To a 1 (888): 00 + 1 + 881 + phone number To a 1 (877): 00 + 1 + 882 + phone number To a 1 (866): 00 + 1 + 883 + phone number To a 1 (855): 00 + 1 + 884 + phone number

DRIVING Renting a car will allow you to enjoy the freedom of exploring Los Cabos. Driving in Mexico might be intimidating, but if you just go with the muddled flow, you will realize that there is some organization within the chaos. If you are pulled over by local police for committing a driving infraction, the standard procedure is for them to take your Driver’s License. You will then have to go to the Police Station to pay your ticket and pick-up your license. In Mexico the gas station attendants pump the gas for you, so you don’t have to get out of the vehicle. There are two types of gasoline: Magna, which is regular, and Premium. Lleno (pronounced ye-no) means full. Major credit cards are accepted. Tipping the gas station attendant around $10.00 pesos is customary. There is a toll road that takes you from the airport to Cabo San Lucas or to the Todos Santos highway; by taking this road you avoid the taxi and shuttle traffic on the main highway. COMMON TRAFFIC SIGNS:

ALTO STOP

CUATRO ALTOS FOUR WAY STOP

ESTACIONAMIENTO PARKING

NO ESTACIONARSE NO PARKING

Emergencies: 911 from a local number Roadside Assistance: 074 from a local number Police Department: - Cabo San Lucas 143-3977 - San José del Cabo 142-0361 Fire Department: - Cabo San Lucas 143-3577 - San José del Cabo 142-2466 Highway Patrol: 146-0573 Tourist Police: 143-3977 HOSPITALS: Hospiten: - Cabo San Lucas 145-6000 - San José del Cabo 105-8550 Baja Medical Response: 144-3434 Blue Medical Net: - Cabo San Lucas Hospital 104 3911 - San José del Cabo Clinic 142-3511 Cabo Surgical Center: 172-6030 Hospital H+ Los Cabos: 104-9300 North American Hospitals and Clinics: 142-2770 One World Hospital: - Cabo San Lucas 143-4911 - San José del Cabo 142-5911 - Todos Santos (612) 145-0600 Saint Luke's Hospital: - Cabo San Lucas 143-4911 - San José del Cabo 142-5911 Walk-in Medi Clinic: 130-7011 * For a complete directory of Doctors, hospitals and clinics in Los Cabos, visit: www.loscabosdoctor.com

Air Ambulances: SkyMed International Air Ambulance: (624) 154-4919 Air One Ambulance: (800) 236-8080 U.S. Consulate: 143-3566 Canadian Consulate: 142-4333 Taxi Cabo San Lucas: 143-2221 Taxi San José de Cabo: 142-0401 Immigration: 143-0135 Airlines: Aero Calafia: 130-7822 Aeromexico: 146-5097 Air Canada: 01 (800) 719-2827 (Toll free within Mexico) Alaska Airlines: 146-5166 American Airlines: 146-5302/5303 Continental Airlines: 146-5050 Delta Airlines: 146-5005/146-5217 Interjet: 01 (800)-011-2345 (Toll free within Mexico) Southwest: 01 (800) 435-9792 Spirit Airlines: 1 (800) 772-7117 Sun Wing: 1 (800) 668-4224 Volaris: 01 (800) 7VOLARIS (Toll free within Mexico) US Airways: 146-5380 West Jet: 1 (800) 538-5696

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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

BOATING & FISHING With calm waters, extraordinary fishing and perfect weather, some may argue that boating is the most popular attraction in Los Cabos. Whether you want to take a cruise to Santa Maria Bay on a luxury yacht or wake up at the crack of dawn for a fishing adventure, there are endless options to fit your needs. FISHING There’s a reason why the world’s richest fishing tournament - the Bisbee’s Black & Blue - has taken place in Los Cabos for over thirty years. This part of the world offers abundant sea life and an exceptionally high catch success rate, no matter what your level of fishing experience is. What to Expect - Most charters include a fishing license, bait, tackle and equipment. Some also include food and drink or these amenities can be added at an additional cost. Cost will depend on the number of people in your party and the size of the boat you choose to rent. It is customary to leave the crew a gratuity of 15% to 20%. Bait and Tackle Most likely, the boat you charter will include your bait and tackle. If you need your own fresh bait, you may buy it along the Cabo San Lucas Marina or the crew you hire may also stop to buy it from the local fishermen on your way out. BOAT RENTALS Private Charters There are many charter companies that can accommodate your needs. What you do on your trip is really up to you, but it will typically consist of a tour of the landmark arch, a few hours of fishing, and a cruise to one of our beautiful bays for a swim. Most boats have fishing equipment and a knowledgeable crew, but the biggest difference between a yacht, sailboat and a fishing boat rental is the cost. Fishing Boat Rentals You can always fish on a yacht, but cruisers, pangas and super-pangas are a more affordable option. Cruisers accommodate larger groups and are more comfortable when the sea is rough on a windy day. THE MARINAS Marina Cabo San Lucas The area’s largest commercial marina features 380 slips and accommodates vessels of up to 375 feet. Amenities include 24-hour security, electricity and 8

potable water, a fuel dock, and convenient laundry and shower facilities. Puerto Los Cabos Located in La Playa just north of San José del Cabo is the newest marina in the area with 200 available slips for boats up to 400 feet. Amenities are similar to Marina Cabo San Lucas, though the boatyard’s 150-ton travel lift can accommodate larger vessels.

SEASONAL FISHING CHART

SEASONAL ACTIVITIES Turtle Releases Every year, from June through December several species of endangered sea turtles nest in the warm sands of Los Cabos. Your family will have the opportunity to help these fragile and tiny creatures make it safely into the sea. Children will learn about the importance of conservation and they will surely enjoy the experience of helping these little friends.

SWIMMING WITH WHALE SHARKS There are several sites worldwide where large numbers of whale sharks congregate, and the bay of La Paz –located only 1.5 hours from Cabo San Lucas– just happens to be one of them. The whale shark is the largest fish on the planet, measuring from 18 to 40 feet, so as you can imagine the experience of snorkeling with these gentle creatures is one-of-akind. Whale shark season in Southern Baja is from October through April. Only go with a professional tour company who is aware of safety and responsible ecoturism guidelines.

WHALE WATCHING

SPORT FISHING FLAGS COMMONLY SEEN IN LOS CABOS

BOATING AND FISHING TERMS IN SPANISH Captain - Capitán Aboard - Abordo To fish - Pescar To float - Flotar Wind - Viento Tide - Marea Fish - Pescado Bait - Carnada Fishing rod - Caña de pescar Hook - Anzuelo Life preservers - Salvavidas Throttle - Acelerador Anchor - Ancla Bow - Proa Stern - Popa

During the winter, Mexico is not only a great place for people to escape the cold weather, but it is also excellent for whale watching. Every year, the intrepid gray whale migrates south to the Baja waters to mate and give birth. Blue and humpback whales also visit us making Baja California Sur one of the best world destinations to see whales. The whale watching season is considered to begin in December and ends in April (although it is not uncommon to see some early arrivals or some stragglers), with February being the peak month for sighting whales.

KITESURFING This sport is most popular in the East Cape due to the El Norte winds. Playa Norte (the north-east side of the beach) in Los Barriles is known to be the most popular destination. La

Ventana is also a popular spot and is closer to La Paz. There is less wind in Los Barriles than in La Ventana, but the surf is bigger. Both locations have kite surfing schools and equipment rentals. The best months are October, November, December, January, February and March.

SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO ART WALK The San José del Cabo Art District offers a variety of worldclass galleries which are open year round; however, from the months of November through June the San José del Cabo Art Walk takes place every Thursday evening from 5 to 9 pm. Walking the enchanting streets and plaza of downtown San José is an ideal way to experience the local culture while viewing art from local and international artists.

FARMERS MARKETS Farmers markets have become very popular in the past few years in Los Cabos and there are now many options to choose from. Some of these markets include: SANJOMO (San José Organic Maket), The Shoppes at Palmilla Farmer’s Market, The Cabo San Lucas Organic Farmer’s Market in Pedregal, El Huerto Farm to Table, Xplora and The Farmers Market at Metate. Schedules and seasons of each market vary so visit their websites or Facebook pages beforehand.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

GOLFING From Tiger Woods to Nicklaus and Fazio, many of the big names in golf have designed courses on this unique landscape. Many courses offer a reduced rate later in the day during twilight hours. Appropriate golf attire is required on all courses and club rentals are available. Cabo Del Sol Ocean Course - A Jack Nicklaus signature course with six ocean front holes (1.5 miles). Known for its “3 finest finishing holes in golf” the Ocean Course is said to be one of the most difficult yet beautiful courses in the area. 7,075 yards, par 72. Desert Course – Designed by Tom Weiskopf, this course winds through the desert above the Ocean Course and challenges the golfer with risk vs reward type decision-making. www.cabodelsol.com

Cabo Real The newly renovated Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed golf course is one of the Corridor’s first championship courses and boasts beautiful views of the Sea of Cortez, elevation changes, and has hosted two PGA Senior Slams. www.questrogolf.com Cabo San Lucas Country Club This course was designed by Roy Dye and is conveniently located outside of Cabo San Lucas and is the only one with views of Land’s End. It has more than 80 bunkers and slightly inclined fairways and one of the longest holes in all of Mexico at 610 yards. www.cabocountry.com Club Campestre San José Make sure you bring your creativity for the greens at Club

Campestre, the newest Jack Nicklaus Design in Los Cabos. Almost every green has 2 or 3 different tiers, so spend some time on the practice green before your round. 18 holes, Par 71, 6,966 yards. www.questrogolf.com TPC Danzante Bay Golf Course North of Cabo is Baja’s newest gem and it might just outshine the rest. Just opened in 2016, Rees Jones, the architect and designer of Danzante Bay explains the elevated, island-like 17th hole par 3 “I have no doubt that number 17 will be one of the best holes in the world”. The course winds you through stunning vistas of the Sea of Cortez, as well as the beautiful mountain range of the Sierra’s. A stunner to say the least and a must-do for the avid golfer. www.danzantebaygolfcourse.com Diamante – El Cardonal & Dunes Course A stunning masterpiece with rolling fairways and challenging greens, El Cardonal can test any golfer. Bring your short game as the golfer can experience undulated greens and encourages risk versus reward decision-making on each hole. Diamante is also home to Davis Love III’s spectacular “Dunes Course,” currently ranking #38 in the top 100 courses in the world according to golf.com. With links-style attributes, this challenging design reminds the golfer he’s only competing against himself. The course was designed with the wind in mind and rewards you when going with the wind and challenges you when going against it. www.diamantecabosanlucas.com Palmilla Golf Club With 27 holes of golf, each 9 hole course offers something different. The Ocean, Mountain, and Arroyo courses all boast Jack Nicklaus Design and a fun and challenging layout with canyons and elevation changes. www.palmillagc.com

Puerto Los Cabos This 18-hole composite course made up of nine Greg Norman designed and nine Jack Nicklaus designed holes is a favorite among locals and frequent visitors. With both challenging and forgiving holes, the average golfer can get around the course comfortably and enjoy the numerous oceanfront holes and elevated vistas. Not to mention, comfort stations with food and booze every 4-5 holes make the experience fun for all levels of players and all types of groups. www.questrogolf.com Quivira Located on the Pacific Ocean side of the peninsula and sure to test any level of player, Quivira boasts dramatic cliff-side landscapes and multiple oceanfront golf holes. It’s not uncommon to be playing while whales breach in the Pacific Ocean or fish jump out of the water. The on-course experience is unique in its multiple comfort stations where players can enjoy tacos, quesadillas, sliders, and of course, a few adult beverages. www.quiviragolfclub.com Rancho San Lucas A beachfront course designed by world-renowned professional golfer, Greg Norman. Highlighted by its island green, the first of its kind in Cabo, the Norman Design challenges the average golfer to elevation changes, undulating greens, and decision making, all while enjoying breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. The multi-themed, ‘least-disturbance’ layout spans three different ecosystems. 7,210-yard, par-72 www.ranchosanlucas.com/golf Vidanta Golf Los Cabos This 9 hole course is a friendly course but make sure you hit ‘em straight because throughout the course you are surrounded by homes and condos in beautiful San José. A fun course for any level of golfer. www.vidantagolf.com

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

WATER ACTIVITIES in medano beach Go to Medano Beach for a day full of fun water activities. There are numerous options along the beach, such as jet skis, banana boat cruises, aquatic bikes, SUP rentals, and more! Or try a parasailing trip and gain some altitude to enjoy beautiful views of Cabo while tethered firmly to a speedboat!

Water Parks

Adventure Parks Experience zip-lining, back-country UTV and ATV tours, a camel safari, and more. Zip-lines are appropriate for kids 8 years and up and be prepared to hike from 5 to 15 minutes from line to line. Most companies include transportation.

Horseback Rides, Nature Walks, and Bird Watching Los Cabos (particularly San José del Cabo) offers a number of horseback excursions for all ages. Saddle-up for a sunset guided beach ride, venture up a hidden canyon trail, or just sit back in the shade while experienced horse trainers give the kids lessons in horsemanship – there’s something for everyone! San José also boasts a natural estuary and nature preserve where you can enjoy a peaceful, self-guided nature walk to observe some of the lushest landscape in the area. Species of flora and fauna are abundant, dozens of species of cacti and birds can be spotted on this solitary walk, just a few minutes from downtown.

OFF-ROADING There are several local companies which offer ATVs, buggies, and other off-road vehicles for trail and beach cruising. Strap on some goggles and hop behind the wheel of one of these off-road racers for an afternoon of fast-paced fun! Tours are typically three hours, and drivers must be 16 years of age with a valid Driver’s License. If pedalpowered rides are more your speed, look into renting a mountain bike and taking a riding excursion, or maybe just a beach cruiser and joining a guided bicycle tour of town. 12

Wild Canyon Adventures has a water park section which you can access with your park day pass, a perfect way to spend a full day of fun family activities. Wild Wet Fun Water Park, located about 30 minutes from San José del Cabo, has shallow pools and small slides for young children, and for adrenaline seekers they have several fast and large slides standing tall and mighty that offer a great view of the beautiful surrounding mountains. To get there take HWY 1 north from the San José International Airport towards La Paz and East Cape. After about 15 miles, take the exit for Caudaño at KM 66. Follow this road for a few minutes and you will find the park on your right.

KITESURFING This sport is most popular in the East Cape due to the El Norte winds. Playa Norte (the north-east side of the beach) in Los Barriles is known to be the most popular destination. La Ventana is also a popular spot and is closer to La Paz. There is less wind in Los Barriles than in La Ventana, but the surf is bigger. Both locations have kite surfing schools and equipment rentals. The best months are October, November, December, January, February and March.

SNORKELING

Prepare yourself for an incredible show of nature as you swim side by side colorful schools of fish, eels, rays, octopi, sea turtles and more. The Sea of Cortez or the “Aquarium of the World” offers many opportunities to experience incredible underwater wildlife. Cabo offers several methods for snorkeling. You may drive to a local beach and swim out, book a tour with one of the many popular companies, or charter a private boat. Tours are typically two or three hours and they often include a tour of Land’s End, lunch, and time for snorkeling in one of the bays. Stay away from the Pacific side of the peninsula; its strong currents make it very dangerous for any kind of water sports. POPULAR SNORKELING SPOTS: Pelican Rock A quick five-minute ride from the Cabo San Lucas marina or Medano Beach is all it takes to get to this fish-attracting rock. Lover’s Beach

EXPLORING THE SIERRA DE LA LAGUNA The Baja Peninsula has a series of mountain ranges that are all part of the Pacific Crest, which includes U.S. National Parks such as Denali and Yosemite. The Sierra La Laguna is the southern most range of the Crest system. This mountain range and natural reserve has seven great canyons with miles of undeveloped land and trails with streams and waterfalls running throughout, offering you a change of scenery from the beach to the mountains. The Sierra de la Laguna can be approached either from the East Cape (Sea of Cortez side) or from the west near Todos Santos (Pacific Ocean side). In the east side there are a few access points into the sierra from some of the beautiful canyons such as Cañón de San Dionísio from Santiago, Cañón San Bernardo from Miraflores, and Cañón San Pablo from Caduaño. There are several companies that run day tours to the Sol de Mayo waterfall in Cañon de la Zorra and the hot springs in Santa Rita, both near Santiago, and both with fairly easy 15 minute hikes or less. Be sure to bring cash, pack a lunch, and take plenty of water.

This popular and uniquely-named beach is accessible only by boat. Be on the look-out, however, as the water is not roped off for swimmers. Santa Maria Bay Snorkel tours regularly visit Santa Maria Bay. If you choose to drive there, it’s an easy swim from the shore to the reef on the right side of the cove. Chileno Bay Snorkelers will find a safe, roped-off area for swimming at this common tour destination. Palmilla Beach This beautiful beach has a very friendly reef that is just off the shore, making it an effortless snorkeling experience. Cabo Pulmo A Natural Marine Reserve in the East Cape, and may offer the best snorkeling in the area. This eight-fingered coral reef is about a 1.5-hour drive from San José del Cabo, but it is well worth it!

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Southern Baja has been a popular surfing destination since the ‘50s. The East Cape is popular for kite surfing and the Pacific coast has several surf breaks where you will find less crowds. See our “The Tip of Baja California Sur” map on page 24 to locate the surf spots mentioned below.

SEASONS JUNE through NOVEMBER: The summer months are known to be the best as the Southern Hemisphere’s swells send great waves to the Pacific, Cabo San Lucas, San José and the East Cape. DECEMBER through FEBRUARY: East Cape and Costa Azul are on the flatter side. The Pacific can be good this time of year because it’s exposed to the west swell. MARCH through MAY: This is the windy season. Swells are consistent and you’ll run into fewer crowds.

BREAKS SAN PEDRITO Level: Advanced. Direction: Right, left. Location: Pacific side right before arriving to Todos Santos. CERRITOS Level: Beginners. Direction: Right, left. Location: Pacific side at Km 65 of the Cabo San Lucas-Todos Santos road. MONUMENTS Level: Advanced. Direction: Left. Location: at Km 6.5 of the Corridor, closer to Cabo San Lucas. EL TULE Level: Advanced. Direction: Right, left. Location: Exit at Km 16.2 at El Tule bridge COSTA AZUL consists of three breaks: The Rock or La Roca Level: Advanced. Direction: Right. Zippers Level: All levels. Direction: Right. Acapulquito Level: All levels. Direction: Right. Location: at Km 28.5. Access is below the Costa Azul bridge. LA BOCANA AT THE ESTUARY Level: All levels. Direction: Right, left. Location: East side of the San José del Cabo’s main beach. SHIPWRECKS Level: Advanced. Direction: Right. Location: East Cape, about 25 Km from San José del Cabo. NINE PALMS Level: All levels. Direction: Long rights. Location: East Cape, about 30 Km from San José del Cabo.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

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Although many locals in Los Cabos speak English, they also appreciate it when visitors speak Spanish. Don't be shy and give it a try! PRONUNCIATION RULES • The letter "ñ" - When you see a wave (tilde) on top of the letter "n" use the "ny" sound that you use for the English word canyon. • The double "ll" is pronounced like "y" in English. • The letter "h" is always silent. • The letter "j" is pronounced like "h" in English. • If the word has an accent mark such as "á", that syllable is stressed.

O U& T

THE BASICS Cash - Efectivo Change - Cambio Closed - Cerrado Credit card - Tarjeta de crédito Doctor - Doctor Food - Comida Goodbye - Adios Good morning - Buenos días Good afternoon - Buenas tardes Good night - Buenas noches Hello - Hola Help - Ayuda Here - Aquí Money - Dinero Open - Abierto Please - Por favor Sorry - Disculpe Thank you - Gracias There - Allá Tip - Propina Water - Agua

ABOUT

GETTING AROUND Where is...? - ¿Dónde está...? My hotel is... - Mi hotel es... Please take me to... - Por favor lléveme a ... How much is this? - ¿Cuánto cuesta esto? Where is an ATM? - ¿Dónde hay un cajero automático? Telephone - Teléfono Do you have WIFI? - ¿Tiene WIFI? I want to buy a... - Quiero comprar un/una... PLACES Bathrooms - Baños Restaurant - Restaurante

Hotel - Hotel Hospital - Hospital Beach - Playa Store - Tienda Pharmacy - Farmacia AT A RESTAURANT Comida - Food Breakfast - Desayuno Lunch - Comida Dinner - Cena Table - Mesa Glass - Vaso Plate - Plato Fork - Tenedor Spoon - Cuchara Knife - Cuchillo Napkin - Servilleta Can you bring the check? - ¿Puede traer la cuenta? MEETING SOMEONE NEW Nice to meet you - Mucho gusto What’s your name? - ¿Cómo te llamas? My name is... - Mi nombre es... Where are you from? - ¿De dónde eres? Do you speak English? - ¿Habla Inglés? I don’t understand - No entiendo

f you are interested in Big Game Fishing, this is Baja Sur’s time to shine. I am not facetious! The fish caught this time of year can be as big as a small truck. Black and blue marlin around the tip of Baja Sur attracts anglers worldwide to compete in events for millions of dollars in cash prizes.

During October, Cabo is host to several big game tournaments. The first of the season, the Los Cabos Billfish Tournament, is based at the posh Playa Grande Resort, October 10 - 14. This three-day fishing contest targets billfish, dorado, yellowfin tuna, and wahoo, and it offers both cash and prizes to the winners. Next on the agenda is the Bisbee Los Cabos Offshore, considered a warmup for its big brother, the Bisbee Black and Blue Tournament. The two-day affair targets billfish, dorado, and yellowfin tuna and offers over a MILLION dollars to the competing teams. The last tournament, but largest of the three events offered in October, is the Bisbee Black and Blue that offers MILLIONS of dollars to the winners who travel from the far reaches of the planet to be able to say they have fished this world-famous sportfishing tournament. 1818

However, you don’t have to be in a tournament to catch one of these mammoth fish. Los Cabos charter fleets are considered some of the best guides in the world and matched with some of the most fertile fishing grounds on the planet, and your chances are pretty good that you can take home bragging rights to one of these striped, black or blue marlin or even a gigantic tuna! Up East Cape way, the beaches this time of year are ideal for fishing from shore. Roosterfish, jack crevalle, pompano, and ladyfish are just a few of the possibilities for the adventuresome angler – either with a guide or alone. If you prefer to fish from a boat, you can choose (a panga, an open Mexican skiff, great for a couple of people; or those pangas that have a canopy for shade and are reasonably priced; or for a bigger group, a small cabin cruiser, which may be more to your liking). At La Paz, they offer both types of boats, and the fishing is usually good for dorado, roosterfish, or even billfish during these summer months. So, if you have any of the fish named above on your bucket list, this is a good time to tick that box.

The late fall season in Loreto should be one of the best in a decade. All summer long, anglers have been catching the larger 60-pound-dorado frequently, just as it used to be in the old days. Plus, now is the prime season for the yellowtail that are known for their stubbornness and strength.

@captbretteller

During the late fall, many consider fishing is prime season throughout Baja Sur. However, it is a little different from location to location in terms of which species are active. Regardless of which area, take an early morning or late afternoon stroll along the waterfront, and it will be easy to figure out what’s biting or what’s not. Whatever species or area you choose, this is the year to plan your trip. Just stay safe and follow COVID protocols.

@cabolance

PRESS RELEASE

Bisbee’s 2021 EAST CAPE OFFSHORE Shatters 2020 Records! LOS BARRILES, BCS

by That Baja Guy -Gary Graham The 22nd East Cape Offshore (BCS, MX) produced by the Bisbee family began this year’s series in a remarkable fashion! The number of teams increased from 72 boats in 2020 to 96 in 2021. As a result, the total jackpot increased to $1,582,975, exceeding last year’s record of $1,100,000 by over 42%. “The top two 2021 winning teams received more money than the total amount received by all the winners in the 2020 event,” Tournament Director Wayne Bisbee observed. Last year’s total jackpot was $1,100,000, and this year’s largest two payouts was 1st Place Overall $790,712, and Day 1 & Day 2 Jackpots $431,800 for a total of $1,222,512. Continuing a “quality over quantity” theme again this year, Team Tiger Spirit’s winning fish weighed 597 pounds, the second-largest qualifying marlin ever caught in the 22 years the tournament has been in existence.

Total Team Payout $1,582,975: 1st Place Overall, Team Tiger Spirit, 597-pound Black------------------------------$790,712. 2nd Place Overall, Buena Fortuna, 478-pound Blue------------------------------$13,608. 3rd Place Overall, Second Wind, 410-pound Blue ---------------------------------$7,506. Day 1 & Day 2 Jackpots, Keep it Reel, 305-pound Blue ---------------------------$431,800. 1st Place Release, El Suertudo,--------------------------------------------------------- $58,565. 2nd Place Release, Retriever,----------------------------------------------------------- $20,272. 3rd Place Release, Vaquero,-------------------------------------------------------------$11,262. 3 days of Jackpot, Don Julio, Yellowfin Tuna, 105-lb. ----------------------------- $122,160. Day 1 Dorado, Rancheras Guapas,-------------------------------------------------$34,000. Day 2 Dorado, Veta, ----------------------------------------------------------------$54,160. Day 3 Dorado, Karma,----------------------------------------------------------------$34,000. TOTAL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------$1,578,100.

The upcoming two Multi-Million-Dollar tournaments are still open for registration. They are: * Los Cabos Offshore, Los Cabos, BCS, MX, October 14 - 17, 2021, * Bisbee Black and Blue, Los Cabos, BCS, MX, October 19 - 23, 2021. Axel Valdez, the owner of the host hotel, BUENA VISTA Oceanfront & Hot Springs Resort, and Clicerio Mercado, Tournament Coordinator for the past 32 years, met with local government officials to ensure that ECO had addressed and adopted the required COVID-19 protocols. As a result, the Bisbee Tournament team has met the demands of the COVID crisis for the second year. In addition, they are an exceptional example of how sportfishing tournaments should be conducted during this period when everyone is concerned during the worldwide pandemic. The Bisbee ECO Team has done a professional job of smoothly bringing together this record-breaking 96 teams of anglers competing for the most significant amount of money ever awarded in a single tournament in the East Cape community. They are not only paving the way for promoting tourism, but at the same time, they have implemented rules and protocols that kept everyone safe. And in doing so, with the assistance of anglers from around the world, the Bisbee events remain the only Trifecta of tournaments with Multi-Million Dollar jackpots in Baja California Sur. From 10 boats to 96 boats entered in the ECC, founder Bob Bisbee must be smiling! I know the remainder of the Bisbee family sure is.

in the spotlight house of Barrie:

Missoni Home The House of Barrie at The Shoppes of Palmilla proudly presents Missoni Home collection and we are thrilled to be the only Missoni Home boutique on the Baja peninsula. Barrie has carefully curated a selection of gorgeous bedding, beautiful pillows and stunning beach and bathroom towels that welcome the colorful, bold statement of magical Missoni style to your home or trip to the beach. Missoni home collection is a delightfully artistic body of home furnishings, fabrics, and textiles. The complete resource library is available to view in shop along with many options to purchase or order from including a magnificent sofa and upholstered bed. Missoni ships direct to our shop from Italy using air freight making lead times 3-4 weeks on bedding, towels, and fabrics. The House of Barrie is dedicated to a life well lived in full Mexican color. “It is important to invite color into your home and your life. Color effects the way we think and feel both inside and outside” says Barrie who’s design work is seen across the globe and is now available right here in our own little slice of Baja paradise. Please stop by and see us to view our collection of home lifestyle furnishings, art and accessories.

THE TOP

OF SOUTHERN BAJA

Imagine floating in a turquoise bay with coral colored sand, snorkeling along side colorful fish or walking for hundreds of yards in waist-high water. Every beach in Southern Baja offers something unique. Here is a list of the must sea beaches to help you decide which is the one for you, or just visit them all!

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

PLAYA DEL AMOR AN UNFORGETTABLE UNIQUE LOCATION

Known to visitors as Lover's Beach, this beautiful staple of Cabo San Lucas is only reachable by boat, kayak or any other water vessel. The easiest way to get there is to take a water taxi from the Cabo San Lucas Marina or from Medano Beach. The trip to Lover's Beach usually includes a cruise by the famous arch rock formation and then you’re dropped-off at the beach. Your same panga captain will pick you up once you're done exploring. This is a perfect place to sit back and observe the dramatic Land's End rock formations, including the pointy Neptune's Finger, which is an excellent dive spot. You can walk to the other side of the rocks and you’ll find yourself looking at the Pacific Ocean; this beach is called Divorce Beach and it’s very dangerous for swimming, so swim on Lover’s Beach side only. It is exhilarating to know that you are on the very tip of the Baja California peninsula, where on your right side you have the Sea of Cortez and on the left is the Pacific Ocean, both meeting right before your own eyes. Location: Land’s End beside the famous Cabo San Lucas arch. Tips: You won’t find any services. If you walk along the Marina or Medano Beach it is almost a guarantee that you’ll be offered a water taxi trip to the arch and Lover’s Beach. Bring snorkel gear! 24

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

PLAYA EL MÉDANO

ULTIMATE FUN IN THE SUN If you're looking for the action, this is where it is. Medano Beach is a 2-mile stretch of hotels, restaurants and beach clubs, right on the sand. Whether you're with your family, on a romantic getaway or on a bachelorette trip, there is a place for every taste. Medano is a swimmable and familyfriendly beach with endless options for souvenir shopping. Numerous activities and water sports are available, such as jet skis, parasailing, flyboarding, stand-up paddling, and more. If you want to take a water taxi to Lover’s Beach and the famous Cabo arch, make a day out of it: head to Medano, have some breakfast or lunch and head out on an adventure to Lover's Beach. The stunning view of Land’s End and the vast entertainment options make this beach a must-see. Médano means “sand dune.” Location: In the heart of downtown Cabo San Lucas. The beach is accessible by foot through the east side of the marina or via Avenida del Pescador. Tips: Be prepared to be approached by a lot of souvenir vendors. If you’re not there for the shopping, just respond with “No gracias.” Visit Lover’s Beach while you’re there. 26

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

PLAYA EL CHILENO

SNORKELING AT ITS BEST Chileno Beach is a very popular location for locals to spend their weekends–and weekdays too...ah, the Cabo life. This is a great beach for swimming due to its calm waters, and its beautiful reefs offer excellent snorkeling and scuba diving. Walk to the left end of the beach and you'll find tide pools and some less crowded areas, as well as the impressive Chileno Bay Beach Club which is only accessible to members. Newly built public restrooms and showers are available, as well as a handicap ramp that takes you right to the beach. Location: Follow the signs for PLAYA EL CHILENO near Km. 14 of HWY 1. Tips: Snorkeling visibility is often better in the early mornings and you’ll avoid the mid-day snorkel tours. Bring snorkeling gear and shade! 28

Photo by Roberto Tironi @monsters_nd_candies

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

PLAYA Santa Maria

AN IDYLLIC COVE

Santa Maria Beach is a stunning horseshoe cove with unique coarse coral colored sand and abundant marine life. Boat excursions and private charters often stop here to enjoy the snorkeling and scuba diving that this National Marine Preserve offers, so if you're panning on snorkeling we recommend that you arrive early to beat the tour boats. At the right end of the beach you will find the private Maravilla Beach Club, which is only accessible to members. There are no gear rentals or refreshments for sale, however, the beach does have brand new restrooms, showers and changing rooms. Palapas are available for some much needed shade, so arrive early in order to get one before they are all taken. Location: Follow the signs which read PLAYA SANTA MARIA and exit at Km. 13 of HWY 1. Follow the dirt road until you reach the parking area. Tips: Swim from the shore towards the rocks on the right or left side of the beach for a great snorkeling experience. Bring snorkeling gear! 30

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

PLAYA PALMILLA

SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO'S GEM Palmilla Beach is known for its family friendly calm waters and mile-long stretch of beach. Located within the resort community of Palmilla, you will find yourself surrounded by oceanfront luxury homes and the exclusive One&Only Hotel. Pangas and fishing cruisers are available for charter, but you won't find water sport rentals such as kayaks or jet skis. From the main parking area you can go left or right; the beach area on the left is roped off with buoys for safe swimming, and the area on the left is a bit more uncrowded and has tide pools and rocks that you can explore. Both sides are equally stunning and you can see beautiful and colorful fish literally right off the shore. Location: Take the PALMILLA ramp exit at km. 27 and turn into the residential community (towards the ocean). You will wind down the beautiful palm tree lined street until you arrive to the beach entrance located on the left side, in front of the Del Mar community gate. If you reach the One&Only Hotel you have gone too far. Tips: Palmilla Beach is popular among local families on the weekends, so arrive early if you want a palapa. Restrooms and showers are available. Bring snorkeling gear! 32

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

PLAYA LOS CERRITOS SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Switch it up by exploring the Pacific Ocean side of the Baja California Peninsula. Cerritos Beach offers a different landscape than the Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo beaches. The climate is usually a few degrees cooler, the sand is finer and darker in color, and the ocean might remind you more of a Southern California beach. It's a popular surf spot and swimming here is safe due to the shallow water near the shore, although it is very important to watch for currents that often form. You can rent a boogie board or surf board and even take a surf lesson as there are a few surf schools on the beach. The charming Hacienda Cerritos Hotel perched on the northern point makes for a very enchanting Mexican landscape. The scenic 45 minute drive along the pristine Pacific coast is well worth the trip. Location: Head north on HWY 19 from Cabo San Lucas towards Todos Santos and exit at km. 66. Watch the markers and look for the signs. Tips: Come prepared with food, drinks and beach gear. The ocean currents are strong and the waves can be quite powerful, so swim with caution. Visit the charming town of Todos Santos before or after your Cerritos beach day. 34

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

PLAYA BALANDRA

THE DEFINITION OF A BAJA PARADISE Balandra Beach is a stunning bay in La Paz (the State's Capital) that will take your breath away. The white powder-like sand and shallow water create dreamy turquoise and aqua colors that delight the eye as far as you can see. It is a kayaker's paradise; not only can you cruise to the reefs across the bay for an unforgettable snorkeling experience, but you can also explore the mangroves on the left side of the bay. The water is very shallow in most of the bay, so you can also simply walk around and explore by foot. If you follow the shore towards the north-east (left) you will find the famous “mushroom rock.” You won’t regret visiting Playa Balandra! Location: About two hours from Cabo San Lucas. We recommend entering it into your phone or car's GPS and it should guide you straight there. Tips: There are no bathroom facilities, but there are palapas for shade . There usually is a truck there where you can buy water and snacks, but it is recommended to bring your own in case they are closed. Try to shuffle your feet in the sand while in the water because many stingrays call this bay their home (lucky guys!) and the shuffling will send them away.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

Viva Mexico!

Fiesta

Join the by Claudia Velo

If you happen to be in Cabo, or anywhere in Mexico for that matter, during September, you will notice a lot of flags and VIVA MEXICO signs everywhere. That’s because September is when Mexico celebrates its independence and, as most of the world know, Mexicans love a good party. Therefore, it makes perfect sense that, when it comes to celebrating the country’s independence, a month-long celebration is just about right. Much better than just a single day, like for Cinco de Mayo, which, by the way, is not Mexican Independence Day, but we’ll talk about Cinco de Mayo at some other date, for now let’s get back to Mexico’s celebration of its independence.

First a Little History

As just about every other country in the continent, Mexico was a colony for more than three centuries. Until, back in 1810 a group of Mexicans, mind you at the time they weren’t Mexican yet, but all were people born in the colony, which at the time was named New Spain, decided that they were ready to claim their independence from the Spanish crown. The reasons were similar to those that sparked the war for independence from the British crown in the U.S.; high taxes, trade restrictions and social rules that favored certain groups, etc. And so, it came to be that on the early hours of September 16, 1810, a catholic priest named, Miguel Hidalgo who served in the Parish of Dolores, a small town not too far from Mexico City, rang the church bell and called a small group of people to rebel against the Spanish control. The events of that early morning call to arms are surrounded by tales of mythical proportion, that have been reenacted in Mexican movies and even soap-operas many times. Whatever the actual call was, that was the moment that marked the beginning of Mexico’s war for independence. A war that lasted 11 years.

It’s a Tradition and a Big Fiesta

While September 16, is the official holiday, the celebration begins on September 15, interestingly enough, it was Mexico’s President Porfirio Díaz who started the tradition to extend the celebration of Mexico’s independence to two days, simply because his birthday was on the 15th, and he probably figured a twoday party is always better. And ever since the early 1900’s every city and town in Mexico celebrates “El Grito” which is the remembrance of the call to arms issued by Hidalgo, on the night of the 15th of September. And so, every year around 11pm on September 15th, every head of government, from the President in Mexico City to the Mayor of the smallest town in the country, reenacts the event that took place in the early morning of September 16, 1810. 38

The celebration includes, the ringing of the town’s bell, which is usually in the government’s seat, and then the “Grito” which is a call to honor Mexico and the heroes who fought for its independence. The traditional “Grito” always ends with a resounding VIVA MEXICO! If you happen to be in Mexico or in a place where there is a large Mexican community, you will be able to experience this tradition at a “Noche Mexicana”, a Mexican Night, with lots of traditional Mexican Food from tacos and tostadas to tamales and pozole, with plenty of tequila, mezcal, and fruit flavored water and of course, no Mexican party is complete without traditional music and folkloric dances. Some Noches Mexicanas even include their own version of “El Grito” complete with bell ringing and flag waving, followed by a fireworks display. In Los Cabos most hotels offer a Noche Mexicana and several restaurants do too.

How to Have Your Own Noche Mexicana

Let’s talk about the elephant in the room, how to celebrate Mexico’s Independence without being in a huge gathering? Easy! Have your very own Mexican Night at home. The first thing you will need is a Mexican Flag and September is definitely the best time to get one, because you are bound to find vendors with all size Mexican flags and flag related items in many spots around town. Some of the most popular places to find them in Los Cabos are, the main square in San José del Cabo and along Morelos Avenue, close to Lazaro Cárdenas in Cabo San Lucas. You can even get them at the major grocery stores. Once you have the flag, the next thing is getting some green, white and red decorations. Again, these are easily found all over the downtown areas of San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. The menu can be an assortment of your favorite Mexican foods. Anything goes; tacos, quesadillas, tamales, and of course you need to have some Mexican rice and refried beans as side dishes, save the salads for another day. Mexican Night is all about festive food, so make sure to include a nice selection of traditional Mexican desserts like; churros, flan, rice pudding and Tres Leches cake – do not despair, all these desserts can be bought ready to eat from any local bakery and even the main grocery stores carry delicious options. Set the mood with some traditional Mexican Music. Choose some good Mariachi music. Some of the all-time favorite Mexican singers are Vicente Fernandez, Luis Miguel and Alejandro Fernandez all of them have mariachi music albums that you can find in any of the music streaming platforms and they will get everybody in a singing and dancing mood. Of course, you will sound even better if you sing a Mexican song after having a nice Margarita… OK maybe you won’t sound better, but you will think you do. And speaking of margaritas… while tequila is the most iconic Mexican drink, mezcal has become a favorite of many in the past few years. Which one do you prefer? Either one is a good base for a variety of very Mexican drinks. Now, if you want to give a Cabo twist to a traditional margarita, all you have to do is use Damiana liqueur instead of Cointreau and your will have a Caborita. And what can be better than a drink that embodies Mexico a Los Cabos all in one sip?

Tequila or Mezcal?

If you’re confused about the differences between tequila and mezcal, here’s a quick guide: Tequila is a double distilled spirit that has to be made of 100% Blue Agave and most tequila is distilled in the town of Tequila. Tequila has a denomination of origin, much like Champagne. Mezcal on the other hand, is a single distilled spirit that can be produced from 12 different kinds of agave, the most common of them is Espadín. Also, while mezcal is a traditional drink from the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca, Mezcal can be produced in different states, nine to be precise, in order to still be considered Mezcal. Tequila gets its flavor from the baking of the heart of the blue agaves in stone ovens, while to prepare Mezcal the hearts of the agaves are baked with wood in pits on the ground, which is what gives Mezcal its characteristic smokey flavor, while tequila has crisp and sometimes even slightly sweet notes. Both spirits are the most representative of Mexico as they have been around since before Mexico became an independent country. Therefore, for an authentic Mexican Fiesta, you can choose either or, why not have them both? Whatever your choice, just remember to drink responsibly and always say: “SALUD!” as you raise your glass.

And the Party Continues

September 16, which is the official date for the commemoration of Mexico’s independence is an official holiday. This means that banks and schools stay closed. But besides that, it is a day of continued celebration. Most cities and towns have Parades to mark the beginning of the movement for Mexico’s independence. The parades usually include school children, folkloric dancers, and Charros on horseback. A bit of everything that represents Mexico’s identity as a colorful and rich mix of cultures and ways of life. In Los Cabos there is usually a parade in San Jose del Cabo and another in Cabo San Lucas.

A Place that is as Unlikely as it is Magical

Mexican historian, Carlos Navarrate, said that September 16 celebrated the moment of insurgency, the hope of a group of people to build a nation. The road to independence was long, 11 years, and after that Mexico has continued to evolve decade after decade for the last 200 years and become a true kaleidoscope of colors, flavors, and traditions that find sense in the absurd and, somehow, always manage to face the daily challenges of life with a smile and quick wit. A country where the possibilities are as endless as the almost surreal essence of its origins. The unlikely result of the melding of Pre-Hispanic and Spanish cultures, that have made of Mexico this wonderful paradise, where while sometimes people don’t seem to be able to agree on anything, whenever the true spirit of Mexico is present, everyone is quick to join in the one phrase that identifies all Mexicans, regardless of their position or beliefs. Because when someone says: VIVA MEXICO! We all are quick to join in and answer with a loud VIVA!!! that emerges from the bottom of our hearts.

that you can be an exclusive sponsor of one of the popular pages on www.DestionoLosCabos.com, the ultimate online guide to Los Cabos? Inquire to learn more about this unique opportunity to advertise your company in an exclusive and effective way!

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Loreto The Birthplace

of the Californias By Claudia Velo

Yes, you read it right, "Californias," there are three states with California in their name. Baja California Sur, the land of Los Cabos, La Paz, and Loreto, Baja California, the state to the north, known for its good wines and beers and the fun you can have in Tijuana and Rosarito, and California, our neighbor across the border. Now that we've cleared that let's talk about where it all began. Loreto, a place that is still a quiet little town, so much so that it is one of Mexico's 132 Pueblos Mágicos, and in the case of Loreto, you can feel the magic as you walk along its Malecón (boardwalk) or stroll its charming central plaza. The town of Loreto was where, after more than a century of failed attempts, the Spanish finally settled across what was then called the Vermillion Sea, now known as Sea of Cortez or Gulf of California. Then again, back then, we're talking about 1697; California wasn't a thing yet. But let's get back to the story. It was then that the Jesuit priest, Juan María Salvatierra, landed in the place that is now Loreto and established the first Mission in California. The remnants of that first mission are still there, and they are part of the tourist attractions one can enjoy when visiting Loreto. You can also see the original virgin, the "Virgen de Loreto," brought from Europe by Father Kino in 1667. The current church, where the virgin is housed, was finished in 1752, and the most recent restoration was done in 1976. As it reads above the entrance, that church is the "Mother of the Missions of Lower and Upper California." From this mission, Fray Junipero Serra left in the 18th century and founded the Missions in San Diego, Monterrey, and San Francisco in what is now the U.S. Can you imagine, setting out on foot, driven by your faith to travel through unknown territories to establish Missions? Building churches with what you found in the area and getting it done all across the Baja peninsula? Well, that is precisely what he did, but I digress. About 2 hours from Loreto and in a section of the old Camino Real used by Spanish missionaries and explorers, you will find the Mission of San Francisco Javier. This is the best-preserved, most spectacularly set mission in Baja -- high in a mountain valley oasis beneath volcanic walls. This mission was founded in 1699 by the Jesuit priest Francisco María Píccolo. However, the current building is the second location of the mission, which is now closer to a 42

natural spring. Construction began in 1701 and was completed in 1758. This was the second mission established in California. The church was built with blocks of volcanic stone from the Sierra de la Giganta Mountains. When Father Ugarte founded the mission in its current location, he started to grow wheat, corn, and grapes, and in this mission, the first missional wine was produced. Originally the grapes were used to make sweet wine and brandy. Currently, the grapes grown in the area are not considered of good enough quality, however the tradition of producing missional wine remains. If you are not into colonial architecture and history, there are many other sites to visit and enjoy in Loreto. In fact, you can see prehistoric cave paintings that date back more than 12 thousand years. Spectacular paintings on the walls have kept their secret meaning for thousands of years. There are animals and human images shown in what seems to be ancient rituals, pilgrimages, hunts, and battles. It is impossible not to marvel as you stand in front of these paintings and realize that there were groups of people living in that area that long ago. Within Loreto Bay, you can also visit five beautiful islands with beautiful beaches that are perfect for enjoying their crystal-clear waters, admiring the abundant marine life, and having fun kayaking, paddle-boarding, or snorkeling. Nothing like a day out enjoying the beauty of the sea and returning to the magic town of Loreto to enjoy civilized pleasures like fine dining at one of the quaint restaurants or enjoying the warm breeze as you taste some local fare, like charred clams "almejas tatemadas." Go ahead, visit Loreto, discover its beauty and wonders, taste the charred clams…. You can thank me later.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

Mexico on your Plate By: LJB

hen it comes to traditional Mexican food the options seem endless, there are the “Three T’s”; tacos, tamales and tostadas, and every state has its own traditional dishes. However, if there is one dish that represents Mexico as a whole, gastronomic experts and historians agree that Chiles en Nogada take “First Plate”, nevertheless for many they are unknown. This is mostly because they are a seasonal dish, that can only be found between August and October. Add to that the fact that preparing traditional Chiles en Nogada takes more time and effort than the average dish, and you realize why, as delicious and traditional as they are, Chiles en Nogada can be a bit hard to find.

parsley is green, the sauce is white, and the pomegranate is red, and there you have it: Mexico on a plate.

What is a Chile en Nogada, you ask? It is a Poblano Pepper stuffed with a sweet and savory filling made of meat, fruit, and nuts, topped with a walnut sauce and garnished with pomegranate and parsley. Now, picture the plate and you will realize that it has the colors of the Mexican flag. The

Another less likely, but more romantic story, popularized by a famous Mexican writer; Artemio de Valle Arizpe in the 20th century, is that the dish was prepared by three ladies from Puebla who had boyfriends in the rebel army that was fighting for Mexico’s independence and when they heard

Stories abound about the origin of such a traditional dish. The most widely accepted one is that the nuns from the Convent of Santa Mónica prepared the dish to celebrate the independence of Mexico in 1821. When Agustín de Iturbide, who was to become the first regent of Mexico, went through the city of Puebla, where the convent was, and the nuns chose the garnishes to reflect the colors of the flag that the rebel army of the newly formed country waved at the time which, by the way was the inspiration for Mexico’s current flag.

of the victory, which meant their boyfriends would return home, they prepared the dish to celebrate and each one chose a color that reflected the colors waved by the army their boyfriend’s belonged to. The truth is, as ethno-historian Beatriz Ortiz mentioned in her thesis about the evolution of colonial food in Mexico; “in order for a dish to become traditional it has to evolve, it cannot be created overnight, because it would be practically impossible for the public in general to accept it and make it their own.” Once a dish is prepared over and over and undergoes a necessary number of changes and adjustments it becomes part of the culinary tradition of a community, and this is the case with Chiles en Nogada.

FIVE INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT CHILES EN NOGADA 1.- They are a seasonal dish prepared only between August and early October. 2.- Back in the late 16th century, before the war for Mexico’s independence began, it was traditional to serve poblano peppers stuffed with seasonal fruits and topped with a walnut sauce. This was most likely the first version of Chiles en Nogada. 3.- The original ingredients were all locally sourced and were considered inexpensive to make. Now, Chiles en Nogada are considered to be a delicacy and cooks tend to include high-priced ingredients in their recipes. 4.- Tradition calls for the sauce to be prepared only with walnuts. Food historians state that making the sauce with any other nut is close to an abomination and certainly disqualifies the dish from having the word Nogada in its name. 5.- All stuffed pepper prepared in the 17th century in Mexico were battered, therefore a traditional Chile en Nogada must be battered. After all these facts and tales, you are now prepared to form your own opinion and decide whether the Chiles en Nogada being served at your favorite Mexican restaurant are close to the dish that, if we decide to believe the tale, was served to celebrate the birth of the independent country that we love so much.

¡VIVA MEXICO Y BUEN PROVECHO! 44

Give a Little.

Help a Lot!

By: Muriel Santullano When the going gets tough, the people of Baja California Sur show their true spirit. A spirit of solidarity and resilience. There is no doubt that when things got really tough during the pandemic, the state managed to get ahead thanks to the work of the Baja California Sur Community Alliance. The Alliance, as it became known to many, is a coalition of close to 200 civil society organizations and members of the private sector, who worked in coordination with hundreds of volunteers and federal and state authorities during the peak of the pandemic last year. The Alliance (BCSCA) was created as a citizens’ initiative without any affiliation to political parties, which has addressed the needs of equipment and resources for health institutions and the food crisis caused by the closure of economic activities in the state because of the health emergency caused by the presence of COVID-19. As you read this it’s been more than a year since The Alliance was formed. More than 216 thousand food baskets delivered across the state. More than 97 thousand families who received food aid. More than 55 thousand volunteering hours. More that 495 thousand medical supplies and PPEs delivered to front line medical and service personnel. And all of this was made possible because there are many generous people who donated what they could to get the state out of the dark and back into the light that hope brings to everyone’s lives. Now it is time to come together once again and help give BCS a second wind. The pandemic has had a big impact on the the Red Cross’ ability to raise funds, since most of the resources for its operation are obtained through in person cash donation campaigns, which have been suspended since last year. In addition, during the past year, there has been an increase in emergency calls for transfers of patients affected by COVID. Most of these calls are cardiopulmonary emergencies and these types of transfers require specialized equipment. Unfortunately, Red Cross in BCS does not have an ambulance with the necessary equipment. The good news is that, The Alliance has continued to work with its members and thanks to the generosity of the CRIT Baja California Sur, rehabilitation center there is a fully equipped ambulance with everything necessary to respond to these types of emergencies. The Alliance has confirmed that it will donate 50% of the funds necessary for the acquisition of this ambulance for the Red Cross to use and continue to save lives in emergency situations. Now, the BCS Community Alliance, BCS Red Cross and CRIT BCS are asking all members of our community to donate and help raise the funds needed to purchase this ambulance. The goal is to raise $ 230 thousand pesos, around $12,500 USD. If you can donate any amount, please go to www.acbcs.org.mx and click on the DONATE button. A small donation will be a huge help to give BCS a second wind. As things are reopening and we are all learning to manage the realities of COVID in our lives, The Alliance continues working to respond immediately in case of a weather, economic or health emergency and to contribute, as much as possible, to maintain a healthy social fabric among the vulnerable sectors of Baja California Sur.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

EXPAT CHRONICLES BY BOBBIE CORAY

“Aren’t you afraid?” That seems to be the question everyone asks when one announces that they’ve just bought a condo on the beach in Mexico. “Of course not!” is my answer.

I was going to cancel but the sweet owner said to me, “I am a widow too. Don’t cancel because you will never come again if you do.”

How did I, an intrepid seventy-five-year old widow, end up spending my winters in San Jose del Cabo and my summers overlooking Bear Lake in Garden City, Utah?

So, I just did it. And I met my friend and realtor, which we began a great friendship. She took me to every condo in the Baja and I’d buy her lunch. But I didn’t buy until three years later, when I fell in love with a condo that I found to rent on VRBO on the Costa Azul in San Jose del Cabo.

It began with my husband and I buying three timeshares and spending three weeks every winter for 14 years in Cabo. We kept saying that it would be wonderful to have a place in Cabo, but didn’t buy because we thought we would want to go other places sometime. With timeshares you have the flexibility to trade for other venues. The thing is, we never wanted to go to any place but Cabo. We have lived in Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Japan and have travelled all over Europe, but it was to Cabo we wanted to come every year. There is something quite magical about Mexico. We had sold our timeshares five years ago and had made the transition to VRBO (Vacation Rental by Owner) so that we could rent for six weeks at the same place and perhaps longer. I booked a condo for February in San Jose within walking distance of the charming colonial plaza downtown. Unexpectedly my husband died in January.

It was March, and I had not intended to buy anything…so there were details like getting earnest money wired from a bank (US checks don’t work here) filling out all the paperwork before my five-week stay was coming to an end. I flew home to set up a wire transfer with the bank and finalize my US loan intending to come right back. But then COVID 19 struck. I had given Dana my Power of Attorney to sign documents relating to the condo. Thus began the very unusual but really quite easy (for me) process of doing it all online and by Zoom. It was not until eight months later that I was able to a move into my condo because the world was locked down for the pandemic. To find out about my adventures of decorating and shipping, getting insurance and a car and setting up all the utilities, read the next issue of Destino.

the TIP of Baja CAlifornia sur Beaches Towns ˜ Cities

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El Coyote

Balandra

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La Paz

HWY 1

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Melitón Albañes

San Bartolo

Punta Pescadero

Bahia de Las Palmas

Las Palmas Los Barriles

San Gertrudis

Baturi

Sea of Cortez

El Cardonal

HWY 1

Valle Perdido

HWY 19

Bahia de Los Sueños

Boca del Alamo

El Triunfo El Rosario

San Quintín

Ensenada de los Muertos

San Juan de Los Planes

San Pedro

El Carrizal

osar

Cueva de León

HWY 286

Los Encinos

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El Sargento La Ventana

HWY 286

La Paz Airport

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La Ribera

Punta Colorada

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El Refugio

Cerritos Km 65

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Miraﬂores

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Agua Caliente Boca de la Sierra

San Andrés

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Las Palmas Km 57

Las Barracas

Santiago

Todos Santos

Punta Lobos Km 55

Punta Arena Km 93

Santa Anita Palo Escopeta

Nine Palms Shipwrecks La Fortuna La Fortuna Zacatitos Santa Cruz Punta Gorda

La Playita - Puerto los Cabos

La Bocana - Estuary Costa Azul Km 28 Palmilla Km 27 El Tule Km 15.5 Chileno Km 14.5 Santa Maria Km 13 Monuments Km 5 El Medano Lover’s Beach bo

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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

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Pabellón Cultural Tourist Assistance Center

Montecristo Estates Pueblo Bonito Pacífica

Pueblo Bonito Sunset

Waldorf Astoria

Plaza Blvd. P aseo dGali e la Mari na Sandos Finisterra

Pacific Ocean

Empacadora Beach Grand Solmar Resort

Playa Grande Resort

1 REmexico Real Estate

Lover’s Beach

The Arch

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Las Cuevas

Punta Arena

San Dionisio

Rancho Ecológico Sol de Mayo Aguas Termales San Jorge Santa Rita Agua Caliente

Frank Arnold Gallery Indira and Isidro Tienda 17 REmexico Real Estate

SCAN TO TAKE OUR MAPS WITH YOU:

Roa Paz d t o La

Cañon de la Zorra

Sea Of Cortez

Playa del Estero

illas

bo el C a

Marisol Boutique Hotel

SIERRA DE LA LAGUNA

Secrets Puerto Los Cabos JW Marriott Los Cabos Zadún, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Benito Juarez

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ZÁLEZ IO GON

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Walmart Soriana Hospiten

La Marina Inn

Tropicana Inn

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Santiago

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Boca de la Sierra

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Miraflores

El Cardoncito Costa de Oro

Caduaño Vinorama Palo Escopeta SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO AIRPORT

Santa Anita

Vidasoul Hotel

Punta Perfecta Nine Palms Shipwrecks La Fortuna

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Corridor

Santa Cruz Zacatitos La Playa/ Vidanta East Cape Puerto Los Cabos

east cape EVERYTHING EVERYTHINGYOU YOUNEED NEEDTO TOKNOW KNOWABOUT ABOUTSOUTHERN SOUTHERNBAJA BAJA

49 49

HOTELS CABO SAN LUCAS

1. Grand Solmar at Rancho San Lucas Resort, Golf & Spa 2. Grand Solmar The Residences at Rancho San Lucas 3. Diamante Cabo San Lucas 4. Nobu Hotel Los Cabos 5. Hard Rock Los Cabos 7. Montecristo Estates Luxury Villas 6. Pueblo bonito pacifica golf & spa resort 8. Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach Golf & Spa Resort 9. Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal 10. Tesoro Los Cabos 11. Sandos Finisterra Los Cabos 12. Playa Grande Resort & Grand Spa 13. The Ridge Luxury Villas at Playa Grande 14. Solmar Resort All Inclusive 15. Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa 16. Breathless Cabo San Lucas Resort & Spa 17. Mar de Cortez 18. Hacienda Beach Club & Residences 19. Marina Fiesta Resort & Spa 20. Cabo Villas Beach Resort & Spa / Cachet Los Cabos

TOURIST CORRIDOR

21. Médano Hotel & Suites 22. Bahía Hotel & Beach House 23. Quinta del Sol by Solmar 24. Casa Dorada Los Cabos Resort & Spa 25. Me Cabo by Melia 26. Pueblo Bonito Los Cabos Beach Resort 27. Pueblo Bonito Rosé All Suites Resort & Spa 28. Club Cascadas de Baja 29. Villa del Arco Beach Resort & Spa 30. Villa del Palmar Beach Resort & Spa 31. Villa La Estancia Beach Resort & Spa 32. City Express Plus and Suites Los Cabos 33. Hotel Riu Santa Fé 34. Hotel Riu Palace Cabo San Lucas 35. Los Cabos Golf Resort

37. The Cape, A Thompson Hotel 38. Sunrock Condo Hotel 39. Sirena Del Mar Welk Resort Cabo 40. Esperanza, An Auberge Resort 41. Hacienda Encantada Resort & Spa 42. The Residences at Hacienda Encantada 43. Hacienda del Mar Club 44. Hacienda del Mar Hotel 45. Grand Fiesta Americana Los Cabos Golf & Spa Resort 46. Live Aqua Resort & Residence Club 47. Montage Los Cabos 48. Chileno Bay Resort & Residences 49. Grand Velas Los Cabos 50. Garza Blanca Resort & Spa Los Cabos 51. Le Blanc Spa Resort Los Cabos 52. Solaz, A Luxury Collection Resort 53. Solaz Signature Suites 54. Villa La Valencia 55. Dreams Los Cabos Suites Golf Resort & Spa 56. Casa Del Mar Boutique Resort & Spa

36. Holiday Inn Express Cabo San Lucas

THE TOURIST CORRIDOR Toll Road

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7 8

19 17

10 11

Medano Beach 21

20 18 16 22 14

24 25 26 27 28

Pacific Ocean

29 30

COSTCO THE HOME DEPOT

36 31

El Tu Beac

Km 15.5

33 34

48 37

The Arch

42 41

El Chileno Beach Km 14.5

38 39

Lover’s Beach

To San José del Cabo and Airport

bo Ca l e éd Jos

CABO SAN LUCAS AIRPORT

H 43

47 46 Santa Maria Beach

Las Viudas Beach Km 12.5

Km 13

75. Tropicana Inn 76. Royal Solaris Los Cabos All Inclusive Resort & Spa 77. Cabo Azul Resort 78. The Grand Mayan Los Cabos 79. Holiday Inn Resort Los Cabos 80. Hotel El Ganzo 81. La Marina Inn 82. Secrets Puerto Los Cabos 83. JW Marriott Los Cabos 84. Zadún, A Rit z-Carlton Reserve

SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO

63. One&Only Palmilla 64. Cabo Surf Hotel & Spa 65. REFLECT KRYSTAL GRAND LOS CABOS 66. Santa María Hotel & Suites 67. Hyatt Place Los Cabos 68. Royal Decameron Los Cabos 69. Hyatt Ziva Los Cabos 70. Posada Real Los Cabos 71. Viceroy Los Cabos 72. Barceló Gran Faro Los Cabos 73. Casa Natalia 74. El Encanto Inn

a. Rancho San Lucas Golf Club b. El Cardonal at Diamante c. Dunes Course at Diamante d. Oasis Short Course at Diamante e. Quivira Golf Club f. Cabo San Lucas Country Club g. Cabo del Sol Desert Course h. Cove Club i. Twin Dolphin Golf Club j. Chileno Bay k. Cabo Real Golf Club l. El Dorado m. Palmilla Golf Club n. Querencia o. Club Campestre San José p. Vidanta Golf Los Cabos q. Puerto Los Cabos Golf Club r. Costa Palmas East Cape

EAST CAPE

85. Four Seasons Resort and Residences Los Cabos at Costa Palmas

1 Treasure’s Furniture 2 House of Barrie

Chedraui Selecto

61 K

49 50 51 52 53 54 55

56 57 58 59

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57. Las Ventanas Al Paraíso, A Rosewood Resort 58. Paradisus Los Cabos 59. Hilton Los Cabos Beach & Golf Resort 60. Marquis Los Cabos All Inclusive Resort & Spa 61. Hampton Inn & Suites by Hilton Los Cabos 62. The Westin Resort & Spa Los Cabos

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GOLF COURSES

HOTELS

Fresko

2 1

L Acapulquito Beach 64

La Comer

The Shoppes at Palmilla

67 Costa Azul Beach Km 28

Km 28

El Tule

ea of Cortez

Palmilla Beach Km 27

Sea Of Cortez EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

DANZANTE CASA UNO

THE DOYLE GALLERY

CASA DEL MAR PELICANOS 301

$7,200,000

$825,000

$445,000

Danzante Bay at The Islands of Loreto

San José Del Cabo

The Los Cabos Corridor

Proudly represented by:

JIM BUCKLEY

DANA GIMENEZ

ARDELLE GRAVEN

Phone (480) 213 0096 Email jim.buckley@danzantebay.com

Phone (624) 160 0885 Email dana@caborealestate.com

Phone (624) 137 7322 Email ardelle@caborealestate.com

REmexico Real Estate is proud to welcome Lindsay Antonia and Joaquin Renero as dynamic additions to our Los Cabos sales team. Lindsay will be focusing on the Los Cabos market and Joaquin will be based in La Paz serving the La Paz and Todos Santos markets. Welcome to the team!

LINDSAY ANTONIA

JOAQUIN RENERO

Phone (624) 235 0006 Email lindsay@caborealestate.com

Phone (612) 199 5183 Email joaquin@caborealestate.com

AVA SAUNDERS Phone (619) 309-9149 Email ava@caborealestate.com

PEDREGAL PENTHOUSE 501-B

SOLARIA D 304

$499,000

$435,000

Cabo San Lucas

CASA ALEGRIA

COPALA 7103

$1,650,000

$499,000

San José Corridor

Pacific Coast

CASA ANGEL

MAVILA 501

$1,299,000

$375,000

Cabo San Lucas

Pacific Coast

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA

GRAND

OPENING Recently, on June 10, we had the pleasure of celebrating the laying of the foundation stone of our new Valerio Condominium development. 8 private and exclusive apartments located in the heart of San Jose del Cabo, 5 minutes from the beach.

MAIN FEATURES • Two apartments • on each floor • Living room • Dining room • Two bedrooms • Two bathrooms • Laundry area

• Terraces • Parking area • Private access • Water tank • Sky garden with • pool • Owner storage

STARTING AT

$215,000 USD

*Illustrative image only, subject to change without notice. Furniture, decoration and finishes are suggested.

624.120.7820 54

sales@remaxthedock.com

www.remaxthedock.com

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTHERN BAJA