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SEPTEMBER 2017 ÂŁ4.30

Measuring up

How premium economy seats compare

Smart traveller

Tips for saving money on your flight

Home base

New serviced apartments to try

La dolce vita

Living the dream in Lake Como

Future perfect Paris prepares for Brexit

SEPTEMBER 2017

10 I UPFRONT Airline and hotel news worldwide 16 I INBOX Your letters and online posts 20 I TRIED & TESTED Virgin Atlantic B787-9 economy and premium economy; Rwandair A330-300 business class; the Whitby, New York; Intercontinental Barclay New York 34 I ON THE BALL New business and high quality of life have helped to turn Leipzig into the fastest-growing city in Germany ON THE COVER: 26 I TOWERING AMBITION The business district of La Défense in Paris stands to gain from a Brexit exodus

34

49

40 40 I COMFORT ZONE A round-up of what airlines have to offer in premium economy class

60

COVER IMAGE: ISTOCK

49 I HOME GROWN From designer interiors to communal gardens, serviced apartments are upping their game – we suggest new ones to try 54 I TEN WAYS TO SAVE ON YOUR FLIGHT How to cut the cost of your ticket

60 I NEWS

70 I HONG KONG

62 I BUY AND FLY

74 I OSLO

56 I LOYALTY We round up hotel and airline scheme news and promotions

64 I WATCHES

76 I DOHA

66 I LAKE COMO

82 I SNAPSHOT

businesstraveller.com

70

SEPTEMBER 2017

SADLY, AT SOME POINT YOU’LL HAVE TO GET OUT. THE BMW 7 SERIES. DRIVING LUXURY. bmw.co.uk/7series

BMW Fleet & Business Sales

Official fuel economy figures for the BMW 7 Series Saloon range: Urban 24.8-51.4mpg (11.4-5.5 l/100 km).

Extra Urban 45.6-67.3mpg (6.2-4.2l/100 km). Combined 34.9-134.5mpg (8.1-2.1l/100 km). CO2 emissions 189-49g/km.

WELLBEING.

Relax in a beautifully crafted, fully connected world. Ambient lighting, Bowers & Wilkins Diamond Surround Sound System and massaging Nappa leather seats, all controllable from the Touch Command passenger tablet, create an oasis of calm.

BMW xDRIVE.

The intelligent, continuously enabled four-wheel drive system that delivers optimum grip and stability for confidence on any road surface.

Available on selected diesel and plug-in hybrid models, including the long wheelbase derivative.

CORE.

The Carbon Core allows for an incredible power to weight ratio, giving the BMW 730d impressive figures of 60.1mpg* (combined). And for even further efficiency, the new BMW 740e plug-in hybrid has CO2 emissions from just 49g/km,† meaning BIK starts at 9%.

VISION.

BMW Laserlight technology extends the headlights’ high-beam range to up to 600 metres, doubling the already impressive illumination range of the latest LED headlights.

The Ultimate Driving Machine

*Figures are obtained in a standardised test cycle. They are intended for comparisons between vehicles and may not be representative of what a user achieves under usual driving conditions. †Figures are obtained in a standardised test cycle using a combination of battery power and petrol fuel after the battery has been fully charged. They are intended for comparisons between vehicles and may not be representative of what a user achieves under usual driving conditions. The BMW 740e Saloon is a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle that requires mains electricity for charging.

6 I Check-in

N

ow that the summer holidays are firmly behind us, perhaps we can get back to business as usual.

For most news outlets, it’s difficult to find things to write about over the summer. Politicians are away, celebrities are on holiday and, in Europe at least, major cities empty out to fill with tourists. At such times, the main staple for newspapers (and now websites) is to run stories about how terrible travel is, especially since nearly everyone will be travelling.

Whether it’s crowded airports, threatened or actual strikes, drunken passengers, rainy weather, hot weather, passengers accidentally boarding the wrong flight and ending up in Las Vegas instead of Stansted, or just the general misery of travelling, it’s a miracle anyone considers going anywhere, yet we all go anyway.

Now normality has returned, we can get on with the business of travelling. We have always tried to make your travelling lives easier, while at the same time perhaps saving you money. In this issue we take a look at premium economy class, which, over the past ten years, has confirmed itself as a firm favourite among cost-conscious business travellers (page 40).

We also share tips on how to cut the cost of airfares (page 54) and cover destinations ranging from Paris to Leipzig, Lake Como to Hong Kong, and Oslo to Doha.

I hope you have some stimulating trips coming up and remember to take those headlines with a pinch of salt. We travel to find out things for ourselves, or, as Mark Twain put it (rather more memorably): “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrowmindedness.” Enjoy your month on the road.

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Living the dream in Lake Como

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8 I Contributors

ANDREW EAMES has long had a predilection for things Teutonic, having married a lass from Lower Saxony.

Alongside contributing to the weekend editions of many UK newspapers, from tabloids to broadsheets, he also runs the website germanyiswunderbar.com.

His first visit to Leipzig (see page 34) proved to be a stimulating encounter with a resurgent destination.

KARL CUSHING is a freelance travel journalist, frequent flyer and a regular contributor to publications such as Selling Travel, Travel Trade Gazette and ABTA Magazine. For this issue, he reflects on his recent trip to Qatar and his time spent exploring the country, and eating and drinking his way around Doha’s panoply of luxurious hotels (see page 76).

SEPTEMBER 2017 £4.30

Measuring up

How premium economy seats compare

SUBSCRIPTIONS tel +44 (0)844 477 0943 email jhalling@businesstraveller.com Editorial director Tom Otley Annual subscriptions: Managing editor Michelle Harbi Save 5% on a two-year Consumer editor Alex McWhirter subscription; 10% on a threeFeatures editor Jenny Southan year subscription.

Online editor Mark Caswell Future perfect United Kingdom and Staff writer Marisa Cannon Republic of Ireland: Art director Annie Harris One year, £42.95; two years, Contributors Craig Bright, Tamsin Cocks, £81.60; three years, £115.90.

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Managing director Julian Gregory Middle East/Rest of World: Group publisher Rania Apthorpe One year, £78.75; two years, £149.65; Head of sales Chris Davies three years, £212.65.

Advertisement manager, travel Rebecca Randall Circulation manager Jamie Halling Head of events Emma Gordon Perry Publications Events assistant Isis Gouveia 41-43 Maddox Street Marketing executive Kirsty Clark London W1S 2PD Smart traveller

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SEPTEMBER 2017

As the editor of watch website SalonQP.com, CHRIS HALL can regularly be found defending the existence of mechanical watches in the modern world – with varying degrees of success.

But in this issue, he finds that Omega’s new Railmaster, which has recently been reissued 60 years after its birth, might actually be more appropriate today than ever (see page 64).

Business Traveller ® is published ten times a year at our address (below left). Business Traveller, the first title of its kind to be published in the UK, has the largest net sale of any magazine in its field in the UK and Europe. Audited average circulation, per issue, JanuaryDecember 2016: 65,858 copies. The magazine is entirely independent of all commercial interests within the travel industry. Unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted for publication. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publishers, who cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.

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10 I Upfront

Michelle Harbi compiles the latest news from businesstraveller.com

Air France-KLM buys Virgin Atlantic stake AIR FRANCE-KLM HAS BOUGHT a 31 per cent stake in Virgin Atlantic in a move that will see closer co-operation between the carriers plus Virgin partner Delta Air Lines.

Air France-KLM has spent ÂŁ220 million on acquiring the stake from the Virgin Group, which will retain 20 per cent and chairmanship. Delta will retain its 49 per cent share in Virgin, while both Delta and Skyteam partner China Eastern will acquire a 10 per cent stake in Air France-KLM and join its board of directors.

In addition, Air France-KLM, Delta and Virgin Atlantic will launch a combined long-term joint venture.

While Virgin will retain its independence as a UK airline, the move means Sir Richard Branson will give up control of the carrier he founded in 1984. In a letter to staff, he blamed Brexit but also pointed out that working more closely with Delta would help Virgin to compete.

Delta says that the expanded joint venture, including Alitalia, will offer nearly 300 daily nonstop transatlantic flights.

Passengers will also be able to earn and redeem miles across all the carriers. airfranceklm.com, virginatlantic.com

BA to launch Nashville route

SEPTEMBER 2017

ISTOCK

BRITISH AIRWAYS WILL INTRODUCE a five-times weekly service from London Heathrow to Nashville from May next year.

The B787-8 route will operate on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Flight BA223 will depart T5 at 1545 and arrive at 1850, with return leg BA222 leaving Nashville at 2025 and landing at 1030 the next day.

The airline will also boost its Heathrow services to Philadelphia and Phoenix from daily to ten flights a week from spring 2018, and will place the A380 on one of its two daily Chicago flights next May. Closer to home, BA is launching new routes from London City to Paris, Prague and Reykjavik. From October, its Heathrow services to Paris Orly will be transferred to London City. There will be three daily weekday flights to Orly and one a day at weekends.

The carrier will operate six flights a week year-round to Prague (every day except on Saturdays). Reykjavik will be a twice-weekly winter-only route (Thursdays and Sundays), replacing flights to Granada in Spain, which will resume as a summer-only service next year. Flights will operate on twoclass Embraer jets.

BA’s summer Manchester-London City route will resume on December 15, with a southbound service on Sundays and northbound on Fridays. ba.com businesstraveller.com

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12 I Upfront

United to fly Heathrow-Denver UNITED IS TO RELAUNCH FLIGHTS between Heathrow and Denver next year. Between March 25 and October 27, the daily B787-8 service will depart Heathrow at 1140, landing at 1430, with the return leg leaving Denver at 1735, arriving at 0940 the following day. United last flew the route in 2010.

The carrier’s daily Birmingham-New York Newark flight will be withdrawn after October 5, less than a year after American Airlines discontinued its nonstop Birmingham-JFK service. United is also suspending its GlasgowNewark route between October 29 and May 4, and Shannon-Newark from November 26 to March 9. united.com

W Shanghai the Bund now open W HOTELS HAS MADE its Shanghai debut. W Shanghai the Bund is located on the North Bund and nearly all of its 374 rooms and suites offer views of the Huangpu River. The interiors, by G A Design, blend eastern and western influences and combine “colonial glamour and futuristic motifs”.

Food and drink venues include a New York-inspired bistro, a Cantonese restaurant and a speakeasy-style cocktail bar.

The property also has a spa, an outdoor pool and nearly 6,000 sqm of meeting space, including the Great Room, which is more than 2,000 sqm in size. marriott.com

SEPTEMBER 2017

Primera Air plans UK transatlantic routes NORDIC CARRIER PRIMERA AIR is to launch transatlantic routes from Birmingham, Stansted and Paris CDG next year. The airline will offer daily flights to New York Newark from all three bases starting in April, as well as four flights per week to Boston.

Services will be operated by wifi-equipped A321neo aircraft fitted with economy and Premium seating. Andri M Ingolfsson, president and chairman of Primera Air, said: “Owing to [the] unmatched efficiency of these newgeneration aircraft, we will be able to offer unprecedented prices to passengers from France and the UK to the US.” Based in Denmark and Latvia, Primera Air flies to more than 70 airports in Europe, using B737s. primeraair.com businesstraveller.com

Upfront I 13

AIRLINE NEWS

Hôtel de Crillon reopens in Paris HOTEL DE CRILLON, A ROSEWOOD HOTEL has reopened following a fouryear renovation.

The luxury Paris property first opened in 1909, in an 18th-century mansion on Place de la Concorde, and was taken over by Rosewood Hotels and Resorts in 2013.

The number of guestrooms has been reduced from 147 to 124. They start from 32 sqm and include 46 suites, two of which have been designed by Karl Lagerfeld.

Food and drink venues include 28-seat gastronomic restaurant L’Ecrin; Brasserie d’Aumont, which has outdoor courtyard seating; Jardin d’Hiver, for tea and pastries; and Les Ambassadeurs bar, which offers live music every night.

The hotel also has a new 14-metre pool, plus a spa, gym, barber and hair salon. rosewoodhotels.com/crillon

Pay for global lounge access with Emirates and Etihad EMIRATES HAS EXTENDED its policy allowing paid-for access to its lounges, following the introduction of the service at Dubai International (pictured) earlier this year.

Skywards silver and blue members can pay for access “for themselves only” at 27 international airports, including Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester, at a cost of US$100 for four hours. Platinum and gold members can pay for access for companions, over the number they are otherwise entitled to. Passengers must be on “Emirates marketed and operated flights and Emirates codeshare flights operated by Qantas”.

Etihad is also now allowing economy class passengers to pay for lounge access worldwide, with Heathrow costing £45 and Manchester £40. Business class customers can pay to upgrade to the carrier’s first class lounge and spa in Abu Dhabi (from US$200, or US$100 for Etihad Guest gold members). Economy flyers can also now “bid” for up to three empty seats next to theirs, subject to availability.

However, Etihad has shelved its free chauffeur drive service for first and business class passengers at all destinations except Abu Dhabi. Instead, it has introduced a paid-for chauffeur service for all customers “at specially negotiated rates”, with the ability to earn miles on bookings. emirates.com, etihad.com businesstraveller.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES will place the A350 on one of its two daily London flights from January 15.

The aircraft will replace the A380 on daytime flight MH4 from Kuala Lumpur to Heathrow, returning the same day on overnight flight MH1, which arrives in Malaysia mid-afternoon the following day. The A350 will take over the second daily flight on March 5.

LUFTHANSA will deploy an A350 on its daily Munich-Hong Kong service from September 13.

CHINA AIRLINES is to launch Taipei-Gatwick flights on December 1. The four-times weekly service will operate on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays using a three-class A350.

JAPAN AIRLINES will add a second daily Heathrow-Tokyo Haneda service on October 29, using a Dreamliner. The flight will depart Haneda at 0245, arriving at 0625, before returning from Heathrow at 0930, arriving at 0625 the next day.

PHILIPPINE AIRLINES will place its new B777-300ER on the Heathrow-Manila route from September 19, almost three months earlier than planned. The two-class aircraft has 370 seats.

AER LINGUS will add a further Heathrow-Dublin frequency this winter. Flight EI156 will depart Dublin at 0830, arriving at 1000, with return leg EI157 departing London at 1050 and arriving at 1210.

EASYJET has been awarded an Austrian air operator certificate, enabling it to establish a Vienna-based airline. The new carrier, called Easyjet Europe, would allow Easyjet “to continue to operate flights both across Europe and domestically within European countries after the UK has left the EU”.

IAG’s low-cost long-haul airline, Level, is to boost the frequency of its Barcelona-Buenos Aires route from three to five services per week from October 29. It will take delivery of three new A330-200s next year as it looks to expand operations.

BRITISH AIRWAYS has announced a codeshare with Scotland’s Loganair. Passengers travelling from the Scottish Highlands and Islands can now book flights on BA’s network, connecting on to its domestic services at Inverness, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen on a through-ticket.

AIR FRANCE has revealed the name and branding of its new airline. Joon will be targeted at millennial travellers and will launch medium-haul flights from Paris Charles de Gaulle this autumn, followed by long-haul next summer. It will not be a low-cost airline, the carrier said. Air France is suspending its Paris CDG-Glasgow route from October 28.

QATAR AIRWAYS will add Canberra to its network in February, while also doubling flight frequency into Sydney. The new Doha-Sydney-Canberra flight will be operated by a B777-300ER, with the other Sydney service being plied by an A380.

SEPTEMBER 2017

14 I Upfront

CHOOSE CHICAGO

Norwegian to launch Gatwick flights to Chicago and Austin NORWEGIAN IS TO ADD two new US routes from Gatwick, to Chicago and Austin.

From March 25, 2018, the low-cost carrier will fly to Chicago O’Hare four times a week, on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Flights will depart Gatwick at 1000, arriving at 1225, with return services leaving Chicago at 1515 and landing back into the UK at 0500 the next day.

On March 27, Norwegian will launch a three-times weekly service to Austin-Bergstrom International (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays). Flights will depart Gatwick at 1000, landing at 1405.

Return services will leave the Texas state capital at 1620, arriving at 0725 the following day. Both routes will be operated by B787s.

The airline has also added a daily (except Wednesday) morning frequency to its Gatwick-New York JFK route. norwegian.com

MGallery opens Leicester Square hotel ACCORHOTELS HAS OPENED an MGallery property on London’s Leicester Square.

The 86-room Victory House, London Leicester Square, MGallery by Sofitel has been designed by Michaelis Boyd, the company behind the interiors of Soho Farmhouse in the Cotswolds.

Inspired by the location, rooms and public areas feature prints of 1950s movie icons, while silent films are projected on to the lift and lobby area. Ground-floor French restaurant Petit Bistro offers al fresco dining.

Victory House is located on the north-east corner of Leicester Square. Its 19th-century terracotta façade was built in early French Renaissance style by theatre designer Walter Emden.

IHG has also announced that it will open the Hotel Indigo London One Leicester Square later this year. It will have 95 rooms, a rooftop bar, a restaurant and a gym. accorhotels.com SEPTEMBER 2017

HOTEL NEWS DORSETT HOTELS AND RESORTS has opened the Dorsett City London. Housed in a 13-storey building next to Aldgate station, it has 267 rooms, two restaurants and a rooftop bar.

THE MANDRAKE has opened in London. The 34-room boutique hotel is on Newman Street, off Oxford Street, and features a London outpost of Michelin-starred Hong Kong restaurant Serge et le Phoque.

FAIRMONT has launched the Fairmont Quasar Istanbul. Located on the banks of the Bosphorus, it has 209 rooms, a range of restaurants and bars, a spa and yoga room.

HILTON has opened its largest Hampton by Hilton to date, a 357-room hotel at London Stansted. The new-build is a two-minute walk from the airport via a covered walkway.

Guests get free wifi, a hot breakfast and can use Hilton’s digital key technology, which is gradually being rolled out across the UK. LEONARDO HOTELS has launched the Leonardo Royal Hotel Edinburgh. Formerly a Premier Inn, the 282-room property has undergone a €7 million refurbishment and is located in the city’s Haymarket district.

MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL has added a third Madrid property to its Autograph Collection. The Hotel Circulo Gran Via has 71 rooms, an all-day restaurant, a champagne bar and cocktail bar. The group’s Edition brand is to make its Japanese debut in 2020 with two hotels in Tokyo, in Ginza and Toranomon.

MOTEL ONE has launched its first property in Zurich. The 394-room property is a fiveminute drive from the city’s main train station.

DREAM HOTEL GROUP has opened the 178-room Dream Hollywood. It features an indoor-outdoor lobby with retractable walls and a 1,020 sqm rooftop called the Highlight Room, comprising a pool, terrace, restaurant and lounge with views of the Hollywood sign.

MADE HOTELS is opening a New York property this month. Located at the junction of 29th Street and Broadway, the 18-storey building has 108 guestrooms.

BULGARI HOTELS AND RESORTS is to open a Beijing property this month in the Embassy District. The Bulgari Hotel Beijing will have 119 rooms, a 1,500 sqm spa, a 25-metre pool, and Il Ristorante, a collaboration with Michelin-starred Italian chef Niko Romito.

MARCO POLO HOTELS is expected to open the 336-room Murray Hong Kong, a Niccolo Hotel later this year on Cotton Tree Drive. businesstraveller.com

16 I Inbox

Tell us about your travels at talktous@businesstraveller.com

Star letter HUNGER GAMES

TAP PORTUGAL REPLIES:

I flew business class from Lisbon to Vienna with TAP Portugal in July. The flight was operated by an A330, and all boarding procedures ran smoothly. After take-off, however, an announcement was made that no meal service would be provided, as the flight was operating with “minimum cabin crew”.

I asked for more information and was told that meals wouldn’t be served in business class either. In fact, during the course of the three-hour 20-minute flight, not even a glass of water was offered to those of us in the business cabin.

I expressed my dissatisfaction to the crew and was told to contact TAP customer services, which I did.

This sort of issue is becoming common with TAP’s medium-haul flights, especially during the summer period, when TAP operates more flights. The airline advertises meals as a highlight of business class. Moreover, we were given no prior notification that the service would not take place, which meant we weren’t given the chance to eat or drink before the flight.

Nuno Jesus, Madeira

We would like to offer our sincere apologies for the inconvenience caused. We are making every effort to prevent situations such as these.

Offering a service of excellence to all our passengers is the company’s motto. We regret the passenger’s experience and will do everything to avoid similar events occurring in the future.

■ This month’s Star Letter winner will receive one of the new branded Business Traveller cabin-size suitcases from Timothy Travel Essentials (timothytravelessentials.co.uk). For your chance to win the Star Letter, email us at talktous@businesstraveller.com and include your full postal address and daytime telephone number. We reserve the right to edit letters.

EXTRAORDINARY EXCUSES I travelled Finnair in business class from London Heathrow to Tallinn via Helsinki in May. My first leg from Heathrow was delayed and I subsequently missed my connection in Helsinki.

I was rebooked on the next flight with an available seat arriving in Tallinn at 2105 – more than four hours after my scheduled arrival time. The following day, I submitted my claim to Finnair for delay compensation. I waited six weeks with no reply. I chased the claim and finally received my result today. Finnair has denied my claim as it says the delay was down to circumstances outside its control.

The circumstances “outside its control” amount to everyday situations that airlines experience such as air traffic control (ATC) delays and minor technical issues. In fact, the Civil Aviation Authority website (caa.co.uk) states that “ordinary technical problems that cause flight disruption, such as component failure or general wear and tear, should not be considered ‘extraordinary circumstances’ and compensation should be payable in these cases”. As for using the ATC excuse – airlines are well aware of these issues so factor in extra “block time” to flights or turnaround times to mitigate these delays. They are neither extraordinary nor unexpected.

Finnair declined my compensation based on “air traffic control – extraordinary circumstances”. What it did not tell me at the time, and what I have discovered by tracking the aircraft that operated my flight online, is that this “ATC delay” was not attributed to my flight nor the inbound operating flight departing Helsinki. It actually occurred the day before, in Hong Kong, which caused a knock-on effect the following day. So I’m extra miffed, as courts have ruled in many cases that airlines cannot attribute extraordinary circumstances from a flight the day prior.

After a pleasant in-flight experience, I am really disappointed with the postflight customer care (or lack of). I will not fly Finnair again and I will pursue this through the small claims process.

Jason D’Suvio, London

SEPTEMBER 2017

FINNAIR REPLIES: We are sorry for the delay during the passenger’s recent journey with us to Tallinn. We evaluate every claim individually and have established that the inbound flight was delayed due to earlier air traffic control restrictions in Hong Kong. While we regret the inconvenience this clearly caused, we have determined that this case is not eligible for compensation due to the extraordinary circumstances beyond Finnair’s control.

businesstraveller.com

Inbox I 17

NOISE IN THE NIGHT

VIRGIN ATLANTIC REPLIES:

I regularly fly premium classes and recently travelled from Atlanta to London with Virgin Atlantic in Upper Class. Can someone please explain to me why people think it’s right to chat and laugh loudly while others are trying to sleep on a long-haul overnight flight?

Moreover, why do cabin crew speak in such loud voices while pounding down the aisles? We are not all blessed with being heavy sleepers and such activity can make or break a restful, enjoyable flight.

I’d welcome some formal training for all crew to have some sensitivity towards passengers and speak in hushed tones when the cabin lights are dimmed. Crew should set the tone, and passengers will follow.

David Taylor, London

We’d like to apologise for any disturbance Mr Taylor may have experienced during his recent flight with us. We always want our customers to have a good night’s sleep on board and our crew work hard to create a restful environment in the cabin. To encourage sleep, we offer a series of Headspace videos on our in-flight entertainment system, as well as essential oils in the hot towels and a relaxing sleep spray for customers to spray on their pillow.

We also give the option of a short meal service so customers can eat and drink, and then get ready for bed.

HILTON VIENNA PLAZA REPLIES:

A spring birthday celebration trip to the Hilton Vienna Plaza was marred by an intolerably hot and stuffy room. Even though they were described as offering air conditioning, this was non-functional.

It transpired that the air con is turned off during non summer months. Other than opening the windows on to the busy street, a plug-in electric fan – an inadequate substitute – was all that was on offer. After a troubled night’s sleep, I felt inclined to refuse full payment for the suboptimal experience.

It seems that seasonal unavailability of air conditioning is a widespread – and perhaps underestimated – problem. Hotels are surely misleading customers by advertising facilities that do not, in reality, exist for large parts of the year. It seems that the units may move air around without cooling.

Andrew Krentz, Hampshire

We always want our guests to leave fully satisfied, and we were sorry to hear that Mr Krentz’s stay fell short of his expectations, as we pay particular attention to the air conditioning systems in the hotel during any warm spells in winter. We have tried to contact Mr Krentz to discuss further, and look forward to hearing his concerns. We hope to welcome him back to the hotel in the future.

businesstraveller.com

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HOT UNDER THE COLLAR

SEPTEMBER 2017

18 I Inbox

Posts from our online forum businesstraveller.com/forum

POST travelwell DATE August 10, 07:09

BA WORLD TRAVELLER PLUS OR JAL PREMIUM ECONOMY?

K1ngston August 10, 09:16

For me, it depends which aircraft BA is using for the sector – if it’s the A380 then World Traveller Plus is okay, but if it’s the B777 or, worst-case scenario, a B747, I would probably aim for JAL. They provide a good service and I use them in Asia to keep up my Oneworld status, but my recent upgrade to World Traveller Plus to the UK on BA was comfortable on the A380.

I’m planning a trip in September to Tokyo.

Which is a better seat and experience in premium economy, BA or Japan Airlines (JAL)?

travelsforfun August 10, 12:12

If in doubt, and all else being equal, I would err on the side of Japan Airlines.

I haven’t flown JAL in premium economy but, in general, find JAL’s in-flight service impressive, even in economy. World Traveller Plus is okay, although I haven’t flown it on an A380. Note that if you don’t already have status, pre-booked JAL premium economy will give you access to lounges at London Heathrow, Tokyo Haneda and Tokyo Narita.

Dolphin500 August 10, 13:30

I have used both premium economy services between North America and the UK, and North America and Tokyo Narita, both on B777s, but I have to say that Japan Airlines offers many more benefits than British Airways, with a dedicated check-in and priority services. I prefer JAL because you recline within your space and every seat has leg and calf support. The reclining system is not as traditional as BA’s and some people don’t like it, but I’m six-foot tall and it is the only premium economy seat that I can sleep in. The food is about the same – JAL’s is the same as in economy, which is actually very good, but served in a different way and they have extras such as champagne and noodles as a snack. The crew is outstanding and you never need to call because there is always someone nearby.

■ See our premium economy round-up, page 40.

POST TominScotland DATE August 2, 14:12

SEPTEMBER 2017

This was not possible as it is a virtual card. I got to the hotel and had to pay on my own card with a promise of a refund to our corporate card. I got back and the refund duly appeared, except that, today, Novotel has charged our company card a second time. I have got back to them to express my irritation but I also take this as a warning to, perhaps, think twice about booking direct with an Accorhotels property in the future. stevescoots August 3, 01:22

I often see on bookings the original card must be produced and almost never get asked; sometimes, when I have been asked but not had it with me, then a passport is enough.

Selbyjay August 3, 13:47

From a TMC [travel management company] angle, hotels in Asia are notoriously difficult when it comes to payment. The US used to be as bad but things have improved and the acceptance of virtual cards is catching up with Europe. Every single day, a hotel charges our guests’ credit card rather than the one we’ve provided, despite calls, emails, faxes and so on confirming the payment instructions.

POST K1ngston DATE August 1, 09:20

IN-EAR OR OVER-EAR HEADPHONES?

AlanOrton1 August 1, 10:05

I’ve always had trouble keeping in-ear earphones in my ear (they are forever falling out). While I wouldn’t wear them to the gym, I have a pair of the Bose Quiet Comfort 35s, which are excellent. Two minutes searching online (in the UK) produced a number of different suppliers, all less expensive than purchasing so called tax-free at Heathrow.

FDOS_UK August 1, 10:57

On business, when hand luggage space is at a premium, I use Audio Technica in-ear.

For long-haul leisure travel I take Bose Quiet Comfort 15 (over-ear), which are comfortable and have great noise-cancelling. The Audio Technica noise-cancelling is not as good as the Bose, but it is good enough.

seasoned traveller August 1, 12:25

I have used Bose for years and nothing performs better. I am currently using Bose Bluetooth over-ear noise-cancelling headphones – the rechargeable built-in battery has excellent life and the sound is first rate.

ACCORHOTELS BEWARE Just struggling through a challenging experience with Accorhotels, courtesy of the Novotel Century Hong Kong. Six nights at this property were booked via the hotel site and paid for via our company purchase card. Two days before my check-in date, I received an email notifying me that I would need to present the card at check-in.

When I was in Singapore Changi airport yesterday I bought some Bose in-ear sports headphones built specifically for training purposes as they are sweat and rainproof. I spent a long time looking at the different options. When you’re on a plane, what are your headsets of choice?

businesstraveller.com

20 I Tried & Tested Flight

Virgin Atlantic B787-9 economy London-New York BACKGROUND Virgin Atlantic flies up to five times a day between Heathrow and New York JFK, using the B787-9 Dreamliner on selected flights.

CHECK-IN I arrived at London Heathrow T3 at 0645 for my 0905 departure on flight VS3, proceeding to Zone A. There were 12 economy bag-drop desks open along with numerous self-service check-in kiosks.

BOARDING I went to Gate 22 at about 0815 and joined the economy queue, which took a while to clear. At the airbridge I was given a bottle of water.

The fabricupholstered Recaro seat has 31 inches of pitch and was comfortable with an adjustable headrest

THE SEAT The 198 economy class seats are split across two cabins configured 3-3-3 (A-B-C, D-F-G, H-J-K). The front cabin (rows 45 to 52) sits behind premium economy, separated by a bulkhead and curtains, with the second, larger cabin (53 to 68) divided from the front one by washrooms.

I had pre-selected seat 55C (you can choose for free within 24 hours of departure; Flying Club members have longer depending on tier).

The Dreamliner’s larger windows, higher ceiling and deeper overhead bins helped to create an airy feel, although the aisles seemed fairly narrow.

The fabric-upholstered Recaro seat is 18.9 inches wide with a six-inch recline and 31 inches of pitch (fine for me, at five-foot-three, although it looked tight for tall passengers). It was comfortable and had an adjustable headrest, a nine-inch touchscreen, a table that folded in half, and a magazine pouch, which I couldn’t fit much into. There was a coat hook, a USB port and in-seat power. The IFE system, called Vera, had a great selection of about 80 movies along with plentiful TV, music, games and a seat-chat function. Wifi cost £4.99 for 40MB of data or £14.99 for 150MB. A blanket, pillow and headphones (not noise-cancelling) were provided.

WHICH SEAT TO CHOOSE? The front rows in each cabin (bulkhead row 45 and exit row 53) have the most legroom; 45 is better as 53 is by the washrooms so you may be disturbed by people queuing. However, you cannot pre-select row 45 or seats 53D-F-G as these are allocated to those with children or mobility issues. You can pre-select 53A-B-C and 53H-J-K for £50 each way (free for Flying Club gold members),

SEPTEMBER 2017

while 47A-B-C and H-J-K offer three more inches of pitch (£40 each way).

THE FLIGHT We pushed back late, at 0945, as a passenger was ill and had to leave the aircraft, and took off at 1005. Drinks and pretzels were served after about half an hour. There were three lunch options – chicken and sun-dried tomato penne, pulled pork and beans, and paneer curry. They had run out of pork by the time they got to me, so I had the pasta, which was moist and flavoursome; my companion said the curry was one of the best dishes he’d had in economy class. It came with a salad, crackers and Boursin cheese, a Gu chocolate ganache, and a choice of drink, including mini bottles of Fachada Malbec and Charles Méras Chardonnay/ Viognier. That was followed by tea or coffee and, later on, mini Fab ice lollies. Shortly before landing, afternoon tea was served (a cheese and tomato chutney sandwich, Tyrrells crisps and a biscuit).

ARRIVAL We landed late at 1210. Immigration and customs took an hour and 20 minutes. Michelle Harbi VERDICT

DEPARTURE TIME

SEAT PITCH

A good-quality, comfortable service with an impressive food and drink offering for economy class, and the extra benefits of flying on the Dreamliner.

0905

31in/79cm

JOURNEY TIME

SEAT RECLINE

7hrs 45mins

6in/15cm

AIRCRAFT TYPE

PRICE Internet rates for a return economy class flight from London to New York in October ranged between £518 and £1,878 depending on flexibility.

B787-9

CONFIGURATION 3-3-3

SEAT WIDTH 18.9in/48cm

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Tried & Tested Flight I 21

Virgin Atlantic B787-9 premium economy New York-London CHECK-IN I arrived at JFK T4 at 1630 for my 1900 flight. Virgin’s check-in is at row 3.

There were two premium economy desks, and security took about 20 minutes.

BOARDING At 1820 I headed for Gate A5. A queue had formed in the priority lane, which premium economy flyers could use. Boarding started five minutes later and I was in my seat (25C) by 1835. I was offered a glass of prosecco or juice and a newspaper. A bottle of water and an amenity kit (socks, eye mask, ear plugs, pen, toothbrush/paste) were waiting for me.

THE SEAT The B787 has five premium economy rows (21-25) configured 2-3-2. In front of the cabin are washrooms, a galley and the “Wander Wall”, stocked with some snacks later on for premium economy passengers. The leather seat was comfy and had noticeably more room than in economy – it was 21 inches wide with a pitch of 38 inches and an eightinch recline. It had an adjustable headrest, a pull-down footrest, and wider armrests than in economy. The tray table came out of the middle armrest, which had a built-in space for a drink. The magazine rack was roomier than in economy. Headphones were the same.

The IFE screen was larger, at 11 inches. There was also a handset with a screen, in-seat power and a USB port.

WHICH SEAT TO CHOOSE? It is free to pre-select your seat from the time of booking. Row 21 has more

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legroom, being behind the bulkhead, although you cannot pre-select a seat here as they are allocated to those with children or mobility issues. It is also closest to the washrooms and galley. The back row (25) is nearest the bassinets at the front of economy, although I wasn’t disturbed at all on this night flight.

THE FLIGHT We pushed back at 1905 but didn’t take off until 1940 because of an aircraft queue. A menu was provided, and juice or water was offered half an hour into the flight, followed by refresher towels. The meal was served at 2020. There was a choice of beef daube (tender beef in a rich sauce with egg noodles, tenderstem broccoli and carrots), chicken achiote (grilled Mexican-spice chicken with tomato rice) or vegetable moussaka (nice, if nothing special). A salad with balsamic vinaigrette, a coconut and macadamia tart (tasty), a roll and butter, and cheese and cream crackers were also provided, all served together on a tray with proper cutlery, china, glasses and mini salt and pepper shakers. The mini bottles of wine were the same as those in economy on the outbound flight. Various spirits and Heineken or Tiger beer were also available, while mini bottles of champagne could be purchased (£14 for one, £24 for two). Cognac, tea, coffee and hot chocolate were offered after the meal, along with bottled water for the flight. Staff were friendly and helpful. The meal was cleared quickly to allow people to sleep. I reclined, watched a film and rested, appreciating the extra room and comfort of the seat in comparison with my economy flight. An hour and a half before landing, fresh fruit, yoghurt, granola and a hot apple Danish were served.

ARRIVAL We landed early at 0650 and were bussed to the terminal. Immigration was well organised and my bag was quickly on the carousel. Michelle Harbi VERDICT

DEPARTURE TIME

SEAT RECLINE

Excellent. The food and drink offering was decent but it’s the extra space and comfort in premium economy that really makes it worth investing in, especially on a night flight.

1900

8in/20cm

JOURNEY TIME

21in/53cm

PRICE Internet rates for a return premium economy flight from London to New York in October ranged between £1,061 and £2,553 depending on flexibility.

SEAT PITCH

CONTACT

38in/96.5cm

virginatlantic.com

7hrs 20mins

CONFIGURATION 2-3-2

SEAT WIDTH

UPPER CLASS PREMIUM ECONOMY ECONOMY

A

K G

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

AC D FG HK 14

15 21 16 22 23 24 25

ABC DFG HJK

45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68

SEPTEMBER 2017

22 I Tried & Tested Flight

Rwandair A330-300 business class London-Kigali

there’s plenty of room to work, relax and sleep.

The seat has several pre-set positions, plus also a massage function, mood lighting, good wifi (free for 45 minutes and US$30 for the rest of the flight), a universal plug socket and two USB ports. The IFE system had 12 films and seven TV shows (more will be added, and the A330-200 on the return journey had a wider choice). Noise-cancelling headphones were provided.

WHICH SEAT TO CHOOSE? I’d avoid the front row because of galley noise, and also the back row, where there are only two window seats, which is exposed to the rear galley. Generally, I would prefer a window seat with the side table giving shelter from the aisle.

BACKGROUND Rwandair flies to 21 destinations in Africa, the Middle East, Europe and Asia from Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. It launched three-times weekly flights from London Gatwick to Kigali in May 2017.

CHECK-IN I arrived at Gatwick North at 1950 for my 2150 departure. The flight was not shown on screen so I asked at an information desk and was directed to Zone C. About 20 people were checking in a variety of giant boxes and bags, which were blocking the business class lane as well as the economy one, so it took a while to be seen. Fast-track security was quick.

THE LOUNGE Rwandair uses the No 1 lounge – for a review visit businesstraveller.com/tried-and-tested.

BOARDING At about 2100 the flight showed as boarding. When I got to Gate 102 there was still a fiveminute wait to board, with business class flyers given priority. Drinks were slow to come before take-off and only water or juice was offered.

THE SEAT Rwandair uses two new aircraft on the route, an A330-200 and the longer A330-300. This flight was operated by the latter.

There were 30 fully-flat seats in business class, staggered slightly in a 1-2-1 layout so the centre pair was closer together in one row and further away in the next. Window seats are either next to the window and protected from the aisle, or on the aisle. I was in 4H, by the window. As you’d expect with such a spacious arrangement, SEPTEMBER 2017

THE FLIGHT There were only five passengers in business class. No bottle of water was left by the seat, so it was a long wait for a drink after take-off, at about 2240. I asked for champagne, which was Moet & Chandon served from half-bottles. A refill was offered reasonably swiftly.

Unfortunately, because the flight is relatively new, there were a number of service problems. There were no menus, and the food listed on the IFE system was not what was served. All the wines had been opened, with corks in the top – I was told they had been loaded that way – and, charitably, they were past their best.

Mostly South African, there was also a Louis Jadot Marsannay, which looked as if it had been around the world many times. I asked for a taste – it wasn’t a Louis Jadot Marsannay. Yet the bottle was full.

The crew could not identify the food (this was not the case on the return journey). Main course dishes were chicken, beef or vegetarian. I went for the latter, which was prawns, although there was also some tofu in there.

I had no trouble sleeping, waking when I heard breakfast being prepared. Amenity bags contained the usual items, plus a razor and shaving gel.

ARRIVAL We arrived slightly early at 0700. Tom Otley VERDICT Apart

DEPARTURE TIME

BED LENGTH

from the problems experienced, this was a modern flight on a good aircraft with a fully-flat seat.

The service will improve, I am sure, as will the food and drink, and indeed on the return flight it was much better.

2150

76in/193cm

JOURNEY TIME

PRICE

9 hours

Internet rates for a return business class flight from London to Kigali in October were priced at £1,480.

CONFIGURATION 1-2-1

SEAT WIDTH 23in/58cm

SEAT RECLINE

CONTACT rwandair.com

180 degrees

businesstraveller.com

24 I Tried & Tested Hotel

The Whitby, New York BACKGROUND Open since February, this is the second New York property for London-based boutique group Firmdale Hotels (the other is Crosby Street).

WHAT’S IT LIKE? Like all Firmdale’s hotels – which include London’s Ham Yard, Charlotte Street and the Soho – the Whitby has an immediately identifiable design aesthetic, courtesy of co-owner Kit Kemp.

Her signature use of mismatched patterns, textures, colours and imaginative artworks and artefacts is again in evidence throughout the property, to great effect.

The Whitby is most reminiscent of the newest London hotel to open, Ham Yard, albeit on a slightly smaller scale. Like Ham Yard – also a new-build – its bright, restful lobby has a loom ceiling installation by Hermione Skye O’Hea and an eye-catching clockcum-art piece. This one, by Dutch designer Maarten Baas, is an ingenious mixed-media grandfather clock, the face of which shows a ghostly Father Time rubbing out and redrawing the hands as each minute passes.

The ground floor is arranged in a loop – the lobby leads to the guest-only drawing room, which in turn leads to the Orangery and the Whitby bar. Staff are warm and keen to help, wishing you a good day on your way out, and welcoming you back with a smile.

Kit Kemp’s signature use of mismatched patterns, textures and colours is again in evidence, to great effect SEPTEMBER 2017

WHERE IS IT? On West 56th Street and Fifth Avenue, three blocks south of Central Park.

ROOM FACILITIES There are 86 rooms and suites across 16 floors, ranging from entry-level Superior (31 sqm) to the 171 sqm Whitby suite. Each is individually designed in colourful, homely style and has warehouse-style floor-to-ceiling windows. All offer free wifi, Bose speakers, Samsung TVs, Blu-ray players, minibars, safes and free bottled water.

Bathrooms are clad in granite or marble and have twin sinks, walk-in showers (suites also have freestanding tubs and TVs) and Kemp’s Rik Rak toiletries.

Some 14 suites have private terraces, including my 15th-floor dual-aspect Junior Terrace suite, which was spacious, airy and well soundproofed, with blackout blinds, a sumptuous king bed, a desk with USB sockets, a walk-in wardrobe and a full-height case of books. The roomy terrace was a great place for a nightcap looking out at the lights of Manhattan.

RESTAURANTS AND BARS The Whitby bar and restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. The adjoining Orangery is a calm space for a coffee, a bite to eat or one-to-one, with a glass vaulted ceiling and a small terrace. I had a very good breakfast, selecting some luscious fruit from the continental selection along with a filling avocado toast dish from the à la carte menu. Dinner was also excellent, with both my roasted eggplant starter and pork schnitzel main featuring lovely, subtle flavours.

MEETING FACILITIES On the lower ground floors are three richly decorated event spaces – the adjoining Araminta and Anrep, which together hold 90 people for a reception, plus the Reading Room, which seats 48 delegates and can be used by hotel guests. There’s also a 130-seat screening room.

LEISURE FACILITIES There is a well-equipped gym on the third level below ground. Michelle Harbi VERDICT Beautifully

PRICE Internet

designed interiors, personal, professional service and a good food and drink offering make the Whitby a worthy addition to the Firmdale stable.

A great location if you want to base yourself in Midtown.

rates for a flexible midweek stay in October started from US$916 for a Superior room.

CONTACT 18 West 56th Street; tel +1 212 586 5656; firmdalehotels.com businesstraveller.com

Tried & Tested Hotel I 25

Intercontinental New York Barclay The revamp involved the redesign of more than 39,000 sqm of space, including the expansive, elegant lobby

BACKGROUND First opened in 1926, and operated

by Intercontinental since the 1970s, this was one of the original railroad hotels, built near Grand Central station. It closed for a US$180 million renovation in 2014, reopening 20 months later in April last year.

WHAT’S IT LIKE? The 16-floor building was originally designed in “neo-Federal, American Colonial” style by Cross and Cross, the architects behind Tiffany and Co’s Fifth Avenue store. The revamp, which involved the redesign of more than 39,000 sqm of space, boosted the room count from 685 to 702 by reducing the number of suites. An executive lounge, two large ballrooms and a splendid top-floor Penthouse suite were added.

The lobby is expansive and elegant, with plenty of marble, columns, floral displays and a new grand staircase leading to the meeting floor. There is lounge seating in the centre, with reception desks and a concierge room to the right, and the Gin Parlour to the left. It’s an impressive, bustling space.

WHERE IS IT? Well located for either business or leisure in Midtown, on East 48th Street between Park and Lexington Avenues.

ROOMS The 702 rooms, which include 33 suites, have been revamped to be “reminiscent of a classic Park Avenue home”, while adding modern touches. In a largely pale grey palette, many feature murals inspired by 19th-century Hudson River School landscapes, while others have fireplaces. They range from entrylevel Superior (from 24 sqm) to the 250 sqm Harold S Vanderbilt Penthouse, which also has a fabulous 120 sqm terrace looking on to the Chrysler Building.

Included as standard are comfy king or queen beds (I slept well and there was only a limited amount of noise from the outside world), 42-inch TVs, a table to

businesstraveller.com

work at, tea and coffee, ironing boards, safes, minibars and bottled water on arrival. Standard wifi costs US$15 (plus taxes) per day, or high-speed is US$20 (IHG Rewards members get free wifi). Bathrooms have a mixture of walk-in showers only, showers over baths, or separate tubs and showers. The shower power could have done with being a bit stronger. Suite guests receive toiletries by Caswell-Massey, which had its flagship store in the hotel for 84 years; otherwise it’s Intercontinental’s standard Agraria products.

The Club Intercontinental lounge is tucked away to the left of the lobby. Open 6.30am-8pm, it’s a large space and was quiet whenever I dropped in. It serves a buffet breakfast, refreshments, afternoon tea, evening cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. Access costs US$100 for double occupancy or US$80 per single guest on top of the room rate (free for Royal Ambassadors; 20 per cent discount for Ambassadors); there is no specific Club room category.

RESTAURANTS AND BARS Considering the size of the property, there is only one, modestly sized bar and restaurant, the Gin Parlour – I imagine that is a reflection of the breadth of choice outside the hotel. Inspired by Dutch and English gin bars of the 1920s, it serves 88 gins and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

MEETING FACILITIES The property has 1,400 sqm of event space, including the impressive 460 sqm Grand Ballroom, which holds 450 people theatrestyle. A second ballroom holds 350 for a reception.

LEISURE FACILITIES On the third floor is a goodsized 24-hour gym with Technogym kit. Michelle Harbi

VERDICT The refurbishment

PRICE Internet rates

has reinvigorated this historic hotel, adding contemporary touches while maintaining its classic feel. Comfortable and well equipped for business travellers, in a convenient Midtown location.

CONTACT 111 East 48th Street; tel +1 212 755 5900; intercontinentalny barclay.com

for a flexible midweek stay in October started from US$410 for a Superior room.

SEPTEMBER 2017

26 I Business in… Paris

Towering ambition Large-scale development is set to make Paris’s La Défense business district more tempting for living and working – and it has UK staff in its sights, says Jenny Southan

SEPTEMBER 2017

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Business in… Paris I 27

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by workers who ebb and flow from their jobs to their outlying homes.

However, Paris has realised that it is falling behind other cities with its lifestyle-less urban planning, so has embarked on turning La Défense into a place not only for work but for living and socialising, too. Central to this is a host of ambitious projects that will set new records for scale; and in so doing rob London’s Shard of the title of “tallest building in the EU”.

At the same time, with Brexit looming, the French capital is looking to pull in as many as 20,000 UK finance workers as they are compelled to migrate.

Competition between London and Paris is hotting up.

LOOK OUT, LONDON “Tired of the fog? Try the frogs.” So reads the latest ad campaign from government organisation Defacto.

This summer it hosted a five-week pop-up in front of La Défense’s Les Quatre Temps shopping mall.

Deckchairs were laid out on Astroturf lawns, food trucks parked up and people played table football on their lunch breaks. It was designed to embody a slice of London – there were signs for King’s Cross and Queensway, Union Jack flags fluttering against

Pictured: Rendering of the forthcoming Hermitage Plaza

▼

I

am not a fan of heights, but every now and then it’s important to get yourself into a glass lift and see the views. Looming 111 metres high, La Grande Arche is La Défense’s most familiar landmark; a monolithic open-sided cube, with an 11,000 sqm, newly renovated roof that allows you to gaze all the way down Avenue Charles de Gaulle to the Arc du Triomphe, on the other side of the River Seine.

Construction of this two-square-mile cluster of high-rise towers began in 1958, with the intention of replacing farmland and dilapidated suburbs with a hub for business and banking. The first building erected was the low but expansive Centre of New Industries and Technologies (now a convention centre and Hilton hotel at the foot of the Arche), followed by the first of France’s office blocks – the Esso Tower and the Nobel Tower – in the sixties.

Today, La Défense is the largest purpose-built district in Europe, hovering above a network of roads on a 30-hectare elevated concrete platform called “the Slab”, which allows pedestrians to walk freely across enormous plazas while cars pass beneath.

For decades, the area has been home to a forest of mono-functional structures, occupied nine-to-five

SEPTEMBER 2017

28 I Business in… Paris

a familiarly grey sky, and spray-painted murals of Big Ben. All that was missing were cucumber sandwiches and jugs of Pimm’s.

Thomas Ledoux, head of communications for Defacto, says: “The idea is to show people that you can live here like you can in London. We launched our campaign after we heard it would be a hard Brexit – we wanted people to know Paris will welcome you.

We have office space available, whereas in Dublin, for example, there is none. That is a problem. Frankfurt is efficient but it doesn’t have the size of Paris, and with that [size] comes a certain lifestyle.”

Earlier this year, Goldman Sachs announced that it would move 6,000 staff to Frankfurt and Paris as part of a contingency plan ahead of the UK’s departure from the EU. HSBC has said it will move 1,000 jobs to Paris, while Reuters will relocate 9,000 to the continent. Newly elected president Emmanuel Macron has pledged to rejuvenate the French economy and has been campaigning for financiers to choose Paris over other European hubs such as Milan, Amsterdam, Madrid or Luxembourg.

A spokesperson for the French Embassy in London says: “[Paris] is a major financial centre, committed to Europe, to the single currency, to business stability and to longterm perspectives. Besides, French regulators have been recognised internationally for

SEPTEMBER 2017

Adam Ramjean, investor relations manager at Pernod Ricard: “Before moving to Paris, I worked for Pernod Ricard UK, a French wine and spirit company based in Chiswick.

Working for the same multinational has certainly made my transition easier. The environment is a little more formal in Paris and hours can be longer, but there is a much better work-life balance.

“The most obvious challenge, and one I’m yet to overcome fully, is the language. You can easily get by with only a few phrases but if you really want to fit in, you need to learn French.

“Paperwork and payments were a bit of a learning curve.

Not every shop accepts cards, and cheques are still a valid form of payment in a lot of places. Making bank payments aren’t as straightforward as sort code/ account number – you need to provide a printed out ‘RIB’, which feels archaic.

“One thing I never expected is how much cleaner and greener London feels. Paris has some great parks – I particularly like Parc des Buttes-Chaumont – but London has a lot more.

“Overall, I don’t think the difference between London and Paris is particularly significant. The same trends are present in most Western cities and defining how their cultures are developing. You have the same backdrop of increasingly unattainable house prices, student debt, austerity and the growth of digital. All of these shared factors are bringing us closer together.”

‘The idea is to show people that you can live here like you can in London’

their work; they provide clarity to businesses and ensure financial stability.

“Increasing France’s business attractiveness is directly linked to economic reform. We will focus on improving our economic competitiveness, business environment and labour system through an ambitious plan spearheaded by the new government. These reforms do not target British businesses specifically. However, Brexit may create opportunities in some sectors, which France stands ready to seize.”

DESIGN FOR LIFE While the rest of Paris enjoys beautiful Haussmann boulevards, pavement dining Clockwise from right: The Sisters towers; Table Square; U Arena

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▼

A BRITISH EXPAT’S VIEW

ENIA ARCHITECTES/EPADESA/JENNY SOUTHAN

SEPTEMBER 2017

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30 I Business in… Paris

LA DÉFENSE IN NUMBERS 15

A pair of towers being designed

by Foster and Partners will be the tallest in the EU

Fortune Global 500 companies (29 in total in Paris)

1

European city ranking for number of Fortune Global 500 firms

3.5 million sqm of office space

275,000 sqm of vacant office space

200,000

sqm of new tertiary office space coming by 2019

€550 office rental cost per sqm per year

€1,554 and chic ateliers, La Défense tends to be inhuman in scale and substance, with impenetrable Brutalist blocks and neverending esplanades. There have been attempts to brighten up the place – there is an “art walk” that takes in more than 60 al fresco sculptures, a freestanding chimney decorated in rainbow stripes and an urban garden near the Yaacov Agam fountain. But developers want to improve it further, with mixed-use projects that cater to tourists, locals and British bankers alike.

The best example of this is Hermitage Plaza, a pair of towers being designed

by Foster and Partners that will stand at 320 metres tall, making them the highest not only in Paris but in the EU. Located on the banks of the Seine, with a jetty for people arriving by speedboat, construction on this new “arrondissement in the sky” will begin next year and is scheduled to be completed in early 2023.

It will comprise 35,000 sqm of office From left: Defacto pop-up at Les Quatres Temps; Citizen M Paris La Défense SEPTEMBER 2017

2,600 hotel rooms

160,000 workers

43,000

employees at foreign companies

31%

jobs in banking and insurance

27%

jobs in energy

10% SMEs

320

metres height of proposed Hermitage Plaza

310

metres height of London’s Shard (Sources: Defacto, Katalyse, Epadesa)

space, 488 high-end apartments and a 230-room five-star hotel, plus a spa and pool, designer shops, restaurants, a concert hall and art gallery.

Emin Iskenderov, chairman and chief executive of Russian developer Hermitage, calls it “a new era for La Défense”. He says: “From Wall Street to Canary Wharf, this model exists everywhere in the world except France.” But the €2.4 billion project is setting a new trend for Paris.

Dozens of other new buildings are also on the horizon. French architect Jean Nouvel has designed the Residence Campusea, a gleaming block of student apartments that will open next year, and the faceted 220-metre Hekla tower, to follow in 2021. Next year, the Belvédère will provide 18,000 sqm of office and commercial space. In 2019 will be the 140-metre tall Trinity and the 165-metre Saint Gobain. In 2020 there will be the Alto tower and, in 2022, the Sisters – one standing at 200 metres and the other at 100 metres. Connected by a glass bridge, they will house offices and a hotel.

▼

annual cost per sqm for prime central London office space

businesstraveller.com

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THE MOST EXCLUSIVE ALL-INCLUSIVE. EVER. Images are computer generated and representational only.

32 I Business in… Paris

‘The Grand Paris project represents a radical transformation of the capital’

In a continuing effort to introduce more green space, next summer will see the unveiling of Oxygen, a 1,500 sqm semicircular park at the end of the Slab, with outdoor terraces partitioned by banks of tall grasses, living walls, sleek cafés with turf roofs and free-flowing organic architecture.

In 2019, Table Square will become a “bistronomy” destination with seven new restaurants and bars. “For decades we have been growing vertically – now we are developing horizontally,” Ledoux says.

DE PORTZAMPARC

CREATIVE CLUSTER To the north-west of La Grande Arche is a long aerial walkway that ends abruptly outside the new Citizen M La Défense hotel in the Nanterre zone. Opened in June, the 175-room property is a far cry from nearby business hotels such as the Mercure, Renaissance and Pullman. The Dutch brand has instead delivered a place to stay where all rooms are the same, you get iPads preloaded with free porn, and prices are capped even during peak season.

The communal lounges are decorated with quirky modern art, and there’s co-working space, a concept store, a 24-hour self-service canteen and stylish meeting rooms with whiteboard walls.

“We are about affordable luxury. We have designer Vitra furniture and our house pour is Ketel One vodka but we don’t charge premium prices,” says Alex Perper, Citizen M’s area manager for France.

From the outdoor deck, you can look across to the new U Arena, which will open this autumn with a concert from the Rolling Stones. The 40,000-seat venue will also be used for rugby matches, motocross championships and conventions.

Come 2022, next to it will be the La Tour de Jardins de l’Arche. Resembling a tower of glass Jenga blocks planted with

trees, it will have offices, 700 hotel rooms, a spa, pool and rooftop restaurant.

Corinne de Conti, president of event services company City One 111, says: “The neighbourhood has been transformed during the past couple of years – it has become very dynamic and young.”

The final part of the urban renewal plan is the €26 billion expansion of the Paris Metro system, taking place over the next 15 years. The Grand Paris Express is expected to boost capacity to two million people a day by 2026, with the addition of four automatic lines, the extension of two existing ones, and 72 new stations.

By 2027, there will be a direct link from La Défense to Paris Charles de Gaulle’s Terminal 2. The French Embassy spokesperson says: “The Grand Paris project represents a radical transformation of the capital. By 2030, it could generate an additional €100 billion to €200 billion in GDP, as well as 115,000 jobs.”One thing is for sure, London can’t rest on its laurels.

■ Visit businesstraveller.com/tried-andtested for a review of the Citizen M Paris La Défense. citizenm.com ■ Eurostar operates up to 19 times a day from London to Paris. eurostar.com

From top: La Tour de Jardins de l’Arche; U Arena SEPTEMBER 2017

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34 I Spotlight on... Leipzig

On the ball Nearly three decades since German reunification, new business, low living costs and a fast-rising football team have seen the eastern city of Leipzig go from bust to boom. Andrew Eames reports

F

Right: Red Bull Arena SEPTEMBER 2017

ALAMY

▼

or a decade or so after the demise of East Germany, the steadily depopulating city of Leipzig had little to celebrate in terms of economics, and even less to be proud of on the football field, a crucial ingredient in the self-esteem of any German city. But then, in 2009, the Red Bull corporation came knocking, and RB Leipzig was born.

At that stage, the new team had to start out in the lowly fifth tier of the German leagues, but its rise since then has been as meteoric as it has been disapproved of by the country’s footballing traditionalists, who dislike its corporate origins.

Last season it entered the Bundesliga, the equivalent of the Premier League, and ended up finishing an astonishing second, even threatening mighty Bayern Munich. So next year it will be playing in the Champions League, the first club in former East Germany to get to such giddy heights.

Footballing success has been a huge morale boost for a city that had struggled A reunification, and its rise has been matched by a shift in the city’s economic status, too. From having lost almost 100,000 inhabitants during the difficult post-GDR transitional decade of the 1990s, Leipzig is now the fastest-growing city in Germany, attracting 15,000 new residents every year. It has gone from bust to boom.

There are several engines behind that growth. New industry, e-commerce and arts have encamped here, encouraged by low rents and room to grow, earning the city the label of the “new Berlin”. And they are bringing with them increasing tourism as well.

Leading the way in Leipzig’s business regeneration are four brands that could hardly be better known – DHL, Amazon, BMW and Porsche. DHL, employing 5,000 staff, moved its European

businesstraveller.com

businesstraveller.com

SEPTEMBER 2017

ISTOCK/GERMAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD/BRZOSKA

Initially, Porsche had to run a homecoming campaign, but word has got out about Leipzig’s quality of life distribution hub here from Brussels in 2008, partly because Leipzig’s user-friendly airport allows 24hour operation. (From the UK, only Ryanair flies to Leipzig, from London Stansted three times a week, but there are numerous options to nearby Berlin, which is only a 75-minute train journey away.)

Amazon, employing 12,000 people, came here for similar logistical reasons, after the reunified country opened new autobahns around the city; the traffic jams that blight the road network in western Germany are virtually unheard of around here.

BMW, employing 5,300 workers, is focusing its electric car development on a new factory, and Porsche is now producing some two-thirds of its cars in its new Leipzig plant.

Porsche’s marketing manager, Thomas Lenck, acknowledges that it was a risk choosing Leipzig as a manufacturing base back in 2002. But the company, which is headquartered in Stuttgart, needed room to expand, and it particularly wanted to create a test circuit where customers could get the full Porsche experience.

“We believe that customers need to feel the car perform,” Lenck says. So everyone who comes SEPTEMBER 2017

here to pick up a brand new vehicle can take to the track – the curves of which emulate Formula One courses around the world – either as driver or passenger, to get to grips with the controls and capabilities of their model. The track and its adjoining customer centre also function as a successful standalone business, hosting more than 500 corporate events a year.

For Porsche, with a strong handmade element in production, the human side of the story was always going to be important. Initially, the company had to run a homecoming campaign to attract the right kind of workers back to the city, but now that word of mouth has got out about Leipzig’s quality of life and low costs, recent growth has been very fast – from 800 workers in 2011 to 4,500 today.

“We’ve only got a leaving rate of 1 per cent,” Lenck says,“so something must be right. The city is the perfect size, big enough to be international and to have lots of activities, and small enough to be 20 minutes from anywhere.”

While Porsche and the other new companies are located on the city’s fringes, a lot of the original Leipzig heavy manufacturing – printworks, foundries and huge cotton mills – was a short tram ride west of the centre in the Plagwitz area of the city. Here, giant warehouses and factories still loom, but their brickwork has been beautifully repointed and their new workers are more likely to have man-buns than mullets. businesstraveller.com

▼

36 I Spotlight on... Leipzig

Spotlight on... Leipzig I 37

WHAT TO SEE

Clockwise from top: View from Panorama Tower; al fresco dining in the city centre; Falco businesstraveller.com

For anyone with a little spare time available to explore, there are three key areas to visit. Leipzig’s historic heart, surrounded by a ring road jangling with trams, is easily walked and busy with street musicians and students on bicycles (German chancellor Angela Merkel studied physics here when it was still the GDR).

It is particularly known for its 30-odd interior courtyard arcades, some lined with shops, some with quiet cafes.

West of the centre, the repurposed factory district, Plagwitz, laced with canals that are now given over to leisure boating, is also worth seeing, particularly along main thoroughfare Karl-Heine Strasse, with its feng shui shops and vegetarian kebabs. Just south of town is the New Lakeland, where former open-caste coalmines have been converted to beach and watersport destinations.

In town, business travellers often frequent the Westin’s 27th-floor restaurant, Falco (falco-leipzig.de), which has two Michelin stars. For a real bargain business lunch, however, nothing can touch the value of the Panorama Tower restaurant (panorama-leipzig.de), which offers a three-course lunch for a mere €12 as well as fantastic views from the 29th floor.

SEPTEMBER 2017

38 I Spotlight on... Leipzig

SEPTEMBER 2017

GNTB/ANDREAS SCHMIDT

For example, some 350 people work for e-commerce pioneer Spreadshirt, whose offices are sited in a former truck factory, with obligatory ping-pong tables and Playstations. Spreadshirt’s core business lies in generating T-shirts bearing customers’ own messages and designs, for which it is the market leader in Europe. Its Leipzig-based chief executive is Brit Philip Rooke and its operating language is English, although his team also includes 20 different nationalities to manage its 18 national websites.

With a turnover of €106 million, and a yearon-year growth rate of 15-20 per cent, you might think that recruiting the right kind of multilingual designers and IT experts would be an issue for a Leipzig-based company. Not so, says Rooke, an unconventional executive who camps out in what is effectively a glorified garden shed during the week, joining his wife in their Berlin home at the weekends.

“When I arrived in 2009, very few people knew of Leipzig. Now it is a hip place to be for people who are tired of Berlin,” he says.“And I know of several British-based companies nosing around here with a Brexit relocation in mind.”

Just down the road from Spreadshirt, past a couple of the sort of artist-based squats that were common in Berlin before property prices shot up (per-sqm rental is €7 per month in Leipzig, and approaching €20 in the capital), is the Spinnerei. Once the largest cotton mill in Europe, employing 2,000 people, today it is a huge, rambling workspace with dozens of start-ups and about 100 artist studios. One of these is occupied by Neo Rauch, a big name in the international arts scene. Some of the rooms here have been converted to boutique accommodation, and many of the artists participate in open days, attracting tourists.

It is tourists and business travellers who are adding the cream to Leipzig’s post-reunification cake.

Visitor numbers have risen steadily, from 2.1 million overnights ten years ago to 2.9 million last year, according to Andreas Hachmeister, chief operating officer of Interhotels, a company with several bigbrand hotels (such as Westin and Radisson Blu) in the region.

In one respect, however, Leipzig will always struggle to produce numbers that match those of its pre-reunification days. Back then, it was a trade show centre, hosting huge consumer fairs displaying goods from the west. These days, those goods are freely available throughout the city.

Meanwhile, the Messe and the beautifully renovated art deco Kongresshalle are concentrating on the meeting and conference market – with the addition of functions for the new big-hitters of DHL, Amazon, Porsche and BMW. Leipzig, it seems, is once again a place where the big corporations like to see and be seen. ■

Today, the Spinnerei is a huge, rambling workspace with dozens of start-ups and about 100 artist studios

From top: Plagwitz; Spinnerei; Spreadshirt HQ businesstraveller.com

www.salonnautico.com #salonnautico

11-15 OCTOBER 2017

PORT VELL

40 I Premium economy

COMFORT ZONE

Premium economy improvements are tempting passengers away from business class.

Jenny Southan finds out how the airlines compare SEPTEMBER 2017

businesstraveller.com

Premium economy I 41

W

Clockwise from above: Air Canada; Air France; Air New Zealand

businesstraveller.com

AIR CANADA Premium economy passengers are fast-tracked through the airport and given a hot towel and welcome soft drink, followed by wine, beer, spirits and “premium” hot meals served on china with proper cutlery and glassware. As with most airlines here, you can check in two cases (23kg each).

The B787-8 cabin has three rows in a 2-3-2 layout (economy is 3-3-3). In my 2015 review (see businesstraveller.com/tried-andtested), I said: “Premium economy feels spacious with a good amount of legroom (seven more inches than economy), and looks stylish.

Seat-back screens (measuring 11 inches – two inches more than in economy) and universal power sockets are available to everybody.

Amenity kits contained socks, an eye mask, toothbrush, toothpaste and ear plugs. Footrests made it more comfortable.”

WIDTH 18-20in/46-51cm LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm RECLINE 7in/18cm

AIR FRANCE Air France passengers can use Sky Priority channels in the airport, gain access to a lounge for a fee (economy passengers can’t), board at will by skipping the economy queue, and get their luggage back quicker on arrival.

The newest seat is found on the carrier’s B787. Air France says that it provides 40 per cent more space than in economy, and the fixed-shell design means that you won’t encroach on the space of the person behind when you recline. Premium economy passengers are provided with travel kits and there are cleverly designed grooves in the tray table to rest your iPad on (you also get 12-inch built-in screens).

WIDTH 19in/48cm LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm RECLINE 130 degrees

AIR NEW ZEALAND In somewhat of a backward step, the Kiwi carrier’s innovative Spaceseat, installed on the B777300, is to be replaced with a more conventional premium economy seat by November. The product will be standardised across the airline’s fleet of B787-9 and B777200 and -300 planes, the last of which flies Auckland-LA-London.

The new seat will be 2-3-2 or 2-4-2.

Passengers will continue to get premium check-in, priority baggage and boarding, and onboard amenity kits, meals and drinks, including wine from New Zealand.

WIDTH 19.3in/49cm LEGROOM 41in/104cm RECLINE 9in/23cm SEPTEMBER 2017

▼

ith typical long-haul business class costing £3,000 return, having the option of more affordable premium economy seats is certainly appealing. Bridging the gap between economy class and top-tier cabins, premium economy gives passengers added benefits such as queue jumping in the airport and, in some cases, free champagne and lounge access, as well as more space.

These days, most major airlines offer a standalone premium economy product – not just economy seats with extra legroom. This year, American Airlines and Delta are finally installing premium economy cabins, and it’s rumoured that some of the Middle Eastern airlines will follow suit. But how much better is the experience than regular coach class? We compare 16 airlines so you can decide…

42 I Premium economy

ANA passengers can use the carrier’s lounge and their checked bags will be fixed with a Star Alliance priority tag

ANA The checked bags of ANA premium economy customers are fixed with a Star Alliance priority tag. Travellers also have access to the Japanese carrier’s lounge.

Premium economy on the B777300ER is in its own 2-4-2 cabin.

Legroom is generous, at 38 inches – four inches more than regular SEPTEMBER 2017

economy – while the seat is 10 per cent wider, at 19.3 inches. The product is also installed on ANA’s B787s. Each seat has a legrest, footrest, 10.6-inch touchscreen, power outlet, USB port and connection for Apple devices, plus a reading light at shoulder height. Free sparkling wine is served, while desserts are from the business class menu. Also on offer are ANA special edition wines.

WIDTH 18.4-19.3in/47-49cm LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm RECLINE 21-24.5 degrees BRITISH AIRWAYS BA’s World Traveller Plus cabin comes in two forms, with a more modern product found on the B787, A380 and some B777s and an older one on the rest of the long-haul fleet. The pitch is seven inches greater than in economy, while the width is an inch more.

Upholstered in navy padded fabric, the newer seat has a footrest, a headrest with wings and a 10.5-inch touchscreen that can be controlled by a personal handset.

Noise-cancelling headphones and

Clockwise from left: American Airlines; ANA; Cathay Pacific; British Airways

an amenity kit with socks, an eye mask, ear plugs and toothbrush/ paste are provided.

WIDTH 18.5in/47cm | LEGROOM 38in/ 96.5cm | RECLINE 7-8in/18-20cm CATHAY PACIFIC On Cathay, premium economy flyers are greeted with a glass of champagne. The newest seat is on the airline’s recently introduced A350s, which serve Hong KongGatwick among other routes.

Meals are “light and healthy with an emphasis on fresh fruits and vegetables”. Larger tray tables make working on a laptop easier, while 10.6-inch screens (12.1-inch on the A350) come with noisecancelling headphones. Amenity kits are also handed out.

WIDTH 18.5-19.3in/47-49cm LEGROOM 38-40in/96.5-101.5cm RECLINE 8-9in/20-23cm

▼

AMERICAN AIRLINES AA launched its first premium economy product this year on its B787-9s and B777-200s, initially on routes from Dallas to Madrid, Paris, Sao Paulo and Seoul, and ChicagoParis, for a limited time. By the end of the year it will be available from LA to Tokyo Narita, Auckland and Sydney. Included in the price is priority check-in, security, boarding and luggage, as well as “chef-inspired” meals and alcohol.

Passengers can take advantage of spacious black leather seats, noisereducing headphones, USB ports and amenity kits. Main Cabin Extra will remain.

WIDTH 19in/48cm | LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm | RECLINE 5-6in/12-15cm

businesstraveller.com

44 I Premium economy

DELTA AIR LINES Delta will be rolling out Premium Select on long-haul aircraft later this year – before, it only had Delta Comfort+, which was an economy class seat with extra legroom. The new product will have adjustable rests for legs, feet, arms and head, 13.3-inch screens (nine inches in economy) and individual power ports.

The airline has collaborated with hotel brand Westin to supply Heavenly blankets, along with Tumi and Malin and Goetz for the amenity kits. Free Starbucks coffee will be available, along with complimentary craft beer, spirits and wine. Free seasonal meals will be served on Alessi tableware.

Premium Select travellers will qualify for Sky Priority security, boarding and bag delivery. The product will be available to book SEPTEMBER 2017

Delta has collaborated with hotel brand Westin to supply Heavenly blankets, and with Tumi and Malin and Goetz for the amenity kits

on the carrier’s new A350 aircraft, to be followed by its B777s, A330s and B767s.

WIDTH 19in/48cm | LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm | RECLINE 7in/18cm EVA AIR The Taiwanese airline was one of the first carriers to offer premium economy (branded Elite Class).

Its product offers USB ports, plug sockets, mood lighting and 11-inch LCD touchscreens.

Toiletries by Canadian brand Escents are also provided, along with pillow and blanket sets.

Wine, beer and non-alcoholic drinks are on offer, with meals served on chinaware.

WIDTH 19.5in/49.5cm | LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm | RECLINE 8in/20cm

Clockwise from top left: Delta; JAL; Lufthansa; EVA Air

JAPAN AIRLINES JAL’s Sky Premium fixed-shell seat has a generous 42 inches of pitch, a legrest, a headrest with wings, and a privacy divider at head height. The 12.1-inch touchscreen can be controlled via a handheld remote. In-seat power is provided.

A significant perk is having lounge access at Tokyo Haneda and Narita, and London Heathrow.

WIDTH 19in/48cm | LEGROOM 42in/106.5cm | RECLINE Undisclosed LUFTHANSA Lufthansa’s seat is not in a separate cabin but, depending on aircraft, is up to an inch wider than in economy, with about four inches more room at the side thanks to a wide armrest and a centre console. businesstraveller.com

▼

CHINA AIRLINES The Taiwanese carrier offers eight rows of premium economy in a 2-4-2 layout on its B777300ER aircraft. The fixed-back shell seat features a legrest, a 12.1-inch touchscreen, a water bottle holder, a drinks holder and a USB port. Designer Ray Chen has incorporated Chinese aesthetic touches throughout the aircraft, with the premium economy cabin featuring walls lined with a wood texturing effect.

WIDTH 19in/48cm LEGROOM 39in/99cm RECLINE 118 degrees

46 I Premium economy

From next month, Qantas will be introducing a new premium economy seat on its B787s

Seats have adjustable footrests, power sockets, a USB port, an 11- to 12-inch screen, and a small stowage area for glasses or a phone.

There is no priority boarding or check-in but select lounges can be used for a fee. A “fruity” welcome drink is offered on board.

WIDTH 18-19in/45.5-48cm LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm RECLINE 40 degrees NORWEGIAN Those flying long-haul with Norwegian will find B787s fitted with five rows of Premium seats arranged 2-3-2. Seat pitch is 46 inches, compared with 31 inches in economy, although seat recline, while greater in Premium, remains minimal. Travellers get lounge access plus fast-track security and boarding. They don’t have to pay to reserve seats, and drinks and a three-course dinner and breakfast are served free (you need to pay and order in advance in economy).

WIDTH 19.5in/49.5cm | LEGROOM 46in/117cm | RECLINE 9-10 degrees QANTAS From next month, the Aussie carrier will be introducing a new premium economy seat on its B787s, flying domestic routes to begin with, followed by LA and London. Smartly upholstered in charcoal grey with touches of SEPTEMBER 2017

“burnt caramel”, the seat reclines into a Z shape with a hammock to support your feet, while a thick pillow slots on to the fixed-wing headrest to cushion you as you sleep. Seatbacks have 13.5-inch screens, plus slots for your own tablet. There are also USB sockets and pods for storing water bottles.

WIDTH 19.5in/49.5cm LEGROOM 38-42in/96.5-106.5cm RECLINE 9in/23cm SINGAPORE AIRLINES Configured 2-4-2, SIA’s new premium economy seat has lots of thoughtful details, such as slots at the base of the central armrest for water bottles, cup holders above, calf and footrests that fold out, two USB sockets per person, and 13.3inch HD monitors. Take your pick from three meal choices on board, or pre-order a special option from the “Book the Cook” menu.

Champagne is complimentary, and fast-track check-in, boarding and baggage handling are rolled in as well. Travellers can stow one piece of checked luggage to 35kg.

WIDTH 18.5-19.5in/47-49.5cm LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm RECLINE 8in/20cm VIRGIN ATLANTIC One of the originators of premium economy, Virgin’s product is still very popular. The seat has 10.5-inch

Clockwise from top left: Norwegian; Qantas; Singapore Airlines; Virgin Atlantic

touchscreens and broad central armrests with a flat section for drinks. Passengers either have footrests or a supportive ottoman cushion behind the bulkhead.

When boarding, a glass of prosecco and a newspaper are offered and, later, a choice of postprandial liqueurs. Amenity kits are provided on night flights. See page 21 for a review of Virgin’s B787-9 premium economy.

WIDTH 21in/53cm | LEGROOM 38in/96.5cm | RECLINE 8in/20cm ■ businesstraveller.com

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Serviced apartments I 49

Home grown

I

f you’re working away for an extended period or simply taking a holiday, a serviced apartment could be right for you. The creature comforts offered are growing, with many operators building more inviting, well-designed spaces and investing in extras such as communal gardens, yoga mats and smartphones with free data.

The industry is thriving, with apartment stock set for a record 13.8 per cent growth this year (equating to 2,600 new units), according to Savills’ 2016/17 UK Extended Stay report. Occupancy stands at 79.2 per cent so far this year, up 1.7 per cent on 2016, while in London alone, occupancy has risen 4.8 per cent on the previous year, according to a recent report by hotel data analysts STR and the Association of Serviced Apartment Providers.

Erica Livermore, who is chair of the HBAA Business Accommodations Committee, says the sector “has definitely become a mainstream choice for many buyers globally”. It can be cost-effective, too – not only can you find cheaper rates but also more space than hotel rooms provide.

From Locke to Staybridge Suites, both young and established brands are responding to demand with new openings and revamps across the country – here is a round-up of some to try.

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Serviced apartments don’t just save you money, they are a lifestyle choice.

Marisa Cannon rounds up new options

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Pictured: Eden Locke, Edinburgh SEPTEMBER 2017

50 I Serviced apartments

LONDON Marlin Waterloo Marlin is the largest owneroperator of serviced apartments in London, with more than 900 units in seven locations including London Bridge, St Paul’s, Canary Wharf and now Waterloo. Launched in June, a ten-minute walk from Waterloo station, this is the group’s first “aparthotel”, comprising 236 rooms. Overlooking the railway or an interior courtyard, all feature wooden floors, sofa beds, 40-inch TVs with Sky, free wifi, L’Occitane toiletries, kitchens and free Handy smartphones loaded with data and hotel information. Executive and Club rooms also come with Nespresso machines. There is a 24-hour concierge, a good-sized bar, a gym, nine meeting rooms and a laundry. marlin.com

From top: Marlin Waterloo; Citadines Barbican; Residence Inn London Bridge; La Roka Canning Town Facing page, from top: Staybridge Suites Liverpool; Staycity Manchester Piccadilly

free mobile data. An independent food and drink store has opened on-site, in partnership with Sourced Market, offering seasonal and artisan goods from brands such as Origin Coffee, Crosstown Doughnuts and Dalston Chillies.

A new gym has been added, along with a business corner for printing. citadines.com La Roka Canning Town Roomspace, which now has nine properties in London, launched in Canning Town in July, hot on the heels of its Camberley apartments in Surrey, which opened in April.

A two-minute walk from Canning Town underground station, the property comprises 18 oneand two-bedroom apartments featuring smart TVs, Apple docks, hand-tufted woollen rugs and Himalayan duvets – warm in winter and cool in summer. All rooms have balconies and are cleaned weekly. The minimum stay is three nights. roomspace.com

Residence Inn by Marriott The extended-stay brand’s first property in the capital, the Residence Inn London Bridge, opened in August in Southwark, offering 87 suites in walking distance of the Shard. Rooms are a mixture of studio, one-, twin and two-bedroom set-ups and are equipped with kitchens, Nespresso machines, Samsung smart TVs and USB sockets.

The 307-room Residence Inn London Kensington is set to open in December on Warwick Road in Earls Court, a ten-minute walk from the Olympia exhibition centre. Like the London Bridge property, it will offer a grocery delivery service, a gym, a 24-hour shop, free breakfast and free wifi. marriott.co.uk Citadines Barbican Aparthotel brand Citadines unveiled its renovated Barbican property in May. Its 120 studios and nine one-bedroom apartments – 74 of which have kitchens – feature Scandi furnishings, warm colours and contemporary art. All come with a Handy smartphone and SEPTEMBER 2017

Citadines Barbican apartments feature Scandi furnishings while on-site store Sourced Market sells artisan goods

Room 2 by Lamington Lamington opened the first aparthotel property under its Room 2 brand in November last year, featuring “apartment-style rooms and a focus on friendly, community living”. A six-minute walk from Hammersmith Tube station, the property offers 16 units (from 14 sqm to 25 sqm), featuring 40-inch HD TVs with mirroring functionality for Apple and Android devices, queen or king-size beds, and kitchenettes. Larger rooms also have a dishwasher, and all bathrooms are stocked with toiletries. Guests can also take advantage of a communal herb garden, healthy vending machines and yoga mats. room2.com businesstraveller.com

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LIVERPOOL Staybridge Suites IHG’s extended-stay brand unveiled a £1 million renovation of its Liverpool property in the spring. Located a few steps from Albert Dock, its public areas have been upgraded, and its 132 suites have new flooring, lighting and refreshed décor with bright colours, multifunctional furniture and design accents inspired by the Beatles and the area’s maritime heritage. A free breakfast is served, and there is also a 24-hour pantry, gym and laundry room. staybridge.com MANCHESTER Staycity Piccadilly Open since May, Staycity’s newest property is located in Gateway House, next to Piccadilly station.

20 THE BARONS LUXURY SERVICED APARTMENTS Richmond upon Thames – West London

LUXURY SERVICED

APARTMENTS

20 The Barons • St Margarets • Twickenham • Middlesex • TW1 2AP 020 8241 3153 • enquiries@20thebarons.co.uk • www.20thebarons.co.uk

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Cheval Calico House Situated off Bow Lane, this property is set to launch nine (of 45) renovated one- and two-bedroom apartments in November. The refreshed residences will introduce new design flourishes such as bespoke sofas, Vitra chairs, bed wall lights

by Kartell Light Air and luxury Asanderus wallpaper, along with engineered oak throughout the living spaces and marble-effect ceramic tiles in the bathrooms.

Units come with kitchens, smart TVs and video-entry phones in all apartments, free wifi, plus a weekly maid service and linen change. Airport transfers, couriers, and theatre and restaurant bookings can be arranged for a fee. Minimum stay three months. chevalresidences.com

52 I Serviced apartments

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL If you’re after something more intimate, these converted houses and apartments offer homely furnishings and facilities.

Bartholomew Townhouse at South Gray Street Located in Edinburgh’s Newington district, this three-bedroom 19th-century townhouse is ideal for families or groups travelling to the Scottish capital.

Set across three floors, the property is light and airy, with interconnected living, cooking and dining areas on the first floor. The minimum stay is two nights, although this rises during peak periods. theedinburghaddress.com

20 the Barons, Twickenham A 30-minute drive from Heathrow, 20 the Barons comprises five apartments ranging from one to four bedrooms. Set in a converted Victorian mansion, residences have retained their period features but come with smart TVs, Siemens appliances and Apple docks. Guests also have access to a communal garden and office. The minimum stay is one week.

20thebarons.co.uk

Cuckooz Shoreditch

From top: Bartholomew Townhouse; 20 the Barons; Cuckooz Shoreditch

Open since June, this East London property offers four one-bedroom apartments housed above a converted warehouse. Interiors are by design firm Studionatalie, and feature floor-to-ceiling windows, Apple TVs, tablets, free drinks and Bamford bathroom amenities. Bike hire and gym passes are also available. Three-night minimum stay. cuckooz.co.uk

From left: Eden Locke Edinburgh; Room 2 by Lamington

SEPTEMBER 2017

It has 182 one-, two- and threebedroom units, each with a living room, kitchen and dining area.

There is also an on-site café, a lounge, gym, 24-hour reception and four meeting spaces. staycity.com EDINBURGH Eden Locke Saco’s design-led aparthotel brand, Locke, made its Scottish debut in June, in a six-storey townhouse on George Street. It has 72 studios ranging in size from 29 sqm to 33 sqm. All come with kitchens and living areas designed by New York architects Grzywinski+Pons, featuring monochrome and pastel shades, plus cocktail kits and toiletries from Kinsey Apothecary. The brand’s Hyde and Son coffee and cocktail bar serves artisan spirits and local craft beers.

Weekly yoga, meditation, cooking and running classes are available, alongside one-toone training, while in-room spa treatments include massages, facials, hair cuts and make-up. lockeliving.com/eden-locke Aparthotel Adagio Edinburgh Royal Mile Accorhotels opened its third UK Adagio property in December last year. It is the first worldwide to feature the brand’s new-look design. The 146-unit property is located in the city’s £150 million New Waverley development, and comprises a mix of studio and one-bedroom apartments, measuring from 26 sqm to 54 sqm. All feature air conditioning, black-out curtains, free wifi, LCD TVs, smartphone docking stations, kitchens and coffee makers.

Some apartments have lounges with sofas. Other amenities include a laundry room and dry cleaning service, a 24-hour fitness centre and reception, daily breakfast and weekly cleaning. adagio-city.com ■ businesstraveller.com

stay ahead stay with us With over 3,000 apartments In 10 major European cities Your next step is simple.

Book direct at staycity.com STAYC I T Y BIRMINGHAM D U B LI N EDINBURGH LIVERPOOL LO N D O N LYO N M A N C H E ST E R MARSEILLE PA R I S YO R K & MANY MORE

businesstraveller.com 24HR RESERVATIONS: +44 (0) 203 499 0748

SEPTEMBER 2017 staycity.com

54 I Smart traveller

10 ways

to save on your flight Alex McWhirter reveals ways to cut the cost of your ticket

1

BOOK TICKETS TO USA IN GULF If you travel regularly to both the Gulf and North America in first or business class, then purchase a single LondonDubai ticket in the UK. Then book the Dubai-North America-Dubai sector (DXBLHR-JFK-LHR-DXB, for example) when you are in the Gulf. A ticket from Dubai to New York – even with a London stopover in both directions – can cost the same or less than London-New York return.

2

FLY VIA DUBLIN Use Dublin as a springboard from the UK to the US when flying business class.

In recent years, Aer Lingus has extended its network and the carrier provides many connections from London and the regions.

market identity. Examples are ManchesterHouston with Singapore Airlines, MilanNew York on Emirates, London-Los Angeles with Air New Zealand, and London-Bangkok on EVA Air. You might find it easier to book such flights through a travel agent rather than direct.

5

FLY GULF AIRLINES INDIRECT Look at major Gulf airlines when flying Europe to Africa, Asia or Australasia.

The best prices are for premium classes, although bear in mind that the overall flight time will exceed that of a direct service. This especially applies in the case of Europe-Africa, where routing via the Gulf does take longer.

6

EXTEND YOUR TRIP If you need to visit Singapore, it costs little more to fly on to Hong Kong, Jakarta or cities in Australasia. If you are Hong Kong-bound, the cost of tagging on Manila, Taipei or Tokyo can be minimal.

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3

USE FIFTH-FREEDOM CARRIERS These airlines undercut established carriers to compensate for their lack of SEPTEMBER 2017

CHOOSE NORWEGIAN’S B787 Premium seats on the low-cost carrier’s B787 provide adequate space and

8

GO BUDGET FROM THE REGIONS Direct flights to mainland Europe from points other than London have been transformed by budget airlines. Unless you have a meeting in the capital or need to travel to a lesser-known city, there is now little reason to fly via London.

9

PLAY THE CURRENCY GAME If you are in a strong currency country and regularly visit the UK, look at taking advantage. Buy a one-way ticket for Singapore-London, then in the UK buy a London-Singapore return. This can be continued indefinitely, ending up with London-Singapore one-way purchased in the UK.

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AVOID LONDON From the UK regions, go via mainland Europe or the Gulf rather than London. The overall journey time should be unaffected. ■ businesstraveller.com

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BUY RTW TICKETS Should you need to combine visits to both North America and Australasia, buy a round-the-world ticket, which can save you money on first and business class.

comfort at a bargain price. The Dreamliners only operate long-distance. Fly transatlantic from London, or, from this month, to Singapore, and Buenos Aires in early 2018.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

CITY LIVING

Adagio’s aparthotels offer central, modern apartments with hotel amenities

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PARTHOTELS – A HYBRID OF APARTMENTS AND HOTELS – give travellers the best of both worlds. They combine the independence of an apartment stay with the service of a hotel environment – and Adagio Aparthotels is the European market leader in this innovative type of accommodation.

Adagio’s properties fuse the facilities of a hotel - such as 24-hour reception, breakfast, gym, free wifi and housekeeping – with the homely feel of a modern, spacious apartment and a fully-equipped kitchen.

With more than 100 aparthotels in central locations all over Europe, Adagio’s guests have easy access to key business districts and social hotspots. What’s more, the longer the stay, the less you pay. Adagio Aparthotels’ tiered pricing from the fourth night onwards is a cost-efficient option for business travellers working on a long-stay assignment in a new city.

Aparthotel Adagio Birmingham City Centre

Aparthotel Adagio Liverpool City Centre

ADAGIO IN THE UK

APARTHOTEL ADAGIO LIVERPOOL CITY CENTRE Located in Liverpool’s iconic Lewis’s building, formerly the city’s leading department store, this property’s public areas have historic décor. The former restaurant now houses the aparthotel’s breakfast room, lounge and meeting space.

Aparthotel Adagio Edinburgh Royal Mile

APARTHOTEL ADAGIO BIRMINGHAM CITY CENTRE Opened in 2015, Adagio Birmingham is part of the Beorma Quarter Development scheme in the trendy district of Digbeth.

This central location is an ideal base for business travellers – within walking distance from both Colmore Row business district and New Street station which has excellent connections to Birmingham Airport.

APARTHOTEL ADAGIO EDINBURGH ROYAL MILE Open since December, Aparthotel Adagio Edinburgh Royal Mile is the first Adagio property with the brand’s new-look apartments – featuring a lighter, brighter and more dynamic design. It’s also the first Adagio to have a new communal area concept, where guests can meet and collaborate. The property is a short walk from Edinburgh Waverley station.

Visit adagio-city.com

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SEPTEMBER 2017

56 I Loyalty

Marisa Cannon rounds up airline and hotel scheme news and promotions Hotel offers for BA Executive Club British Airways Executive Club members can earn 500 Avios for stays at Mercure and Novotel properties (such as the Novotel Canary Wharf, pictured) until September 30. (Check which hotels aren’t included in this offer in advance.)

IHG is also offering a 30 per cent discount to Executive Club members on weekend stays (Fri-Sun) at selected brands, including Crowne Plaza, Hotel Indigo, Holiday Inn Express and Staybridge Suites. Discounts of up to 20 per cent can be redeemed on Intercontinental and Kimpton stays. Bookings must be made at least 21 days in advance of the first night’s stay. Book by September 30 and stay by December. ba.com

Flying Blue and Enrich bonus up for grabs with Hilton Members of Air France-KLM’s Flying Blue scheme and Malaysia Airlines’ Enrich programme can receive triple miles on stays at participating Hilton properties worldwide (such as the Hilton Dead Sea in Jordan, pictured). Flying Blue members can redeem the offer at hotels in Europe, the Middle East and Africa.

Enrich members will receive the bonus in South East Asia, Japan and South Korea, or double miles worldwide, excluding Hampton by Hilton properties in Greater China and Mongolia. Book and stay by September 30. hiltonhonors3.hilton.com

Triple Qatar Airways miles at Langham hotels Qatar Airways’ Privilege Club is offering triple Qmiles for stays at Langham hotels in London (pictured), China, Australia, New Zealand and the US, as well as food and beverage credits and free parking. Book and stay by September 30, quoting code QRMY17LL and your membership number. qatarairways.com SEPTEMBER 2017

Free Fridays and bonus points at Carlson Rezidor Carlson Club members are eligible for a free Friday night stay or 10,000 bonus gold points for every two stays they complete.

Register for the “Free Fridays” or “10K bonus points” promotion and you can earn up to three free Friday nights or a maximum of 30,000 bonus gold points. Book and stay by September 30.

The offer is available at Quorvus Collection hotels (such as the G&V Royal Mile Edinburgh, pictured), Radisson Blu, Radisson Red, Radisson, Park Plaza, Park Inn by Radisson, and Country Inns and Suites. carlsonrezidor.com

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Loyalty I 57

Apple rewards for Miles and More members Miles and More members can take home double miles for every euro spent on Apple products online. The offer is eligible on a variety of Mac computers, iPhones, iPads, Apple watches and iPods, as well as accessories including Beats earphones. Nextday delivery is available for purchases over e40 received by 4pm, with special offers for students and teachers. miles-and-more.com

Take home 3,000 points with Marriott Rewards Marriott Rewards members can earn up to 3,000 points per night at selected Marriott International hotels in the US until October 5. The offer is available at 29 properties (including the San Francisco Marriott Fisherman’s Wharf and Courtyard Washington Capitol Hill/Navy Yard) when quoting code M11, but cannot be redeemed on black-out dates or when earning miles for the stay. Earning rates depend on hotel and range from 1,000 to 3,000 points a night. marriott.com

Singapore Airlines launches programme for SMEs SIA has introduced its new Highflyer corporate loyalty programme targeted at SMEs. Businesses will earn five points for every S$1 (£0.57) spent on flights with SIA or its Silkair subsidiary, while individual travellers will continue to earn miles on their Krisflyer accounts. Companies that spend a stipulated amount (this varies between markets) are eligible to transfer to the Corporate Travel Programme, which offers special fares and benefits for large companies. singaporeair.com

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Make work a pleasure Host memorable meetings and events at London’s historic St Ermin’s Hotel

T

ucked away in the heart of Westminster, next to St James’s Park station, St Ermin’s Hotel is perfectly positioned for business meetings of all kinds.

It has never been easier to discover the event spaces of the historic four-star deluxe hotel, with its new 360-degree virtual showaround tool (sterminshotel. co.uk/meetings-events/3d-tour).

Discover the relaxed spaces around reception, the lobby mezzanine, Caxton bar, tea lounge and library area – all great for working remotely with free wifi or catching up over coffee.

Continue your tour of the Grade II listed hotel and you’ll see its light

businesstraveller.com

and airy meeting rooms, which are equipped with the latest technology and breakout spaces for up to 40 people. Or be wowed by the impressive Crystal ballroom, Cloisters suite and Crystal mezzanine – perfect for larger events for up to 180 delegates.

Giving guests a little more, St Ermin’s Hotel – part of Marriott International’s Autograph Collection – now also offers free access to Newsstand, a digital platform giving access to thousands of global newspapers and magazines to enjoy during your stay.

■ St Ermin’s Hotel, 2 Caxton Street, London SW1H 0QW; tel +44 (0)20 7222 7888; sterminshotel.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 2017

Lifestyle Contents I 59

60

60 I NEWS The latest in leisure and luxury 62 I BUY AND FLY Tax-free airport shopping 64 I MAGNETIC FORCE The return of Omega’s Railmaster 66 I LAKESIDE GLAMOUR The timeless beauty of Lake Como

58 66

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70 I DINNER DATE Hong Kong’s finest dining destinations 74 I FOUR HOURS IN OSLO A scenic tour of the Norwegian capital

59 60

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76 I DOWNTIME IN DOHA Explore Qatar’s diverse attractions 82 I SNAPSHOT Amsterdam Schiphol’s single terminal SEPTEMBER 2017

60 I Lifestyle News

Michelle Harbi rounds up what’s new in leisure and luxury CAR

PORSCHE UNVEILS MOST POWERFUL 911 EVER PORSCHE HAS PREMIERED the fastest and most powerful road-approved 911 model of all time. The Porsche 911 GT2 RS is powered by a 700-horsepower twin-turbo 3.8-litre flat engine and can go from 0 to 100km/h in 2.8 seconds, with a top speed of 340km/h. The rear-wheel drive two-seater weighs 1.47 tonnes with a full tank and features a racing chassis with rear-axle steering and a sporty red Alcantara and black leather interior. From £207,506; porsche.com

ART

TECH

Leica launches TL2 camera LEICA HAS UNVEILED its next-generation TL2 camera. Made from a single block of aluminium, it has been created in partnership with Audi’s design team and features clean, minimalist lines in a slimline package. It has a 24-megapixel sensor, a 3.7-inch LCD touchscreen, integrated wifi for wireless transfer of images to your laptops, faster autofocus, and full HD and 4K video recording. Six lenses are available, and it comes in black or silver. Body from £1,700; lenses from £1,300; uk.leica-camera.com

SEPTEMBER 2017

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Lifestyle News I 61

DINING

Clare Smyth goes solo in London ACCLAIMED CHEF CLARE SMYTH has launched her first solo venture. The former chef patron of the three-Michelin starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay has opened Core by Clare Smyth in Notting Hill. Offering modern British fine dining, it serves a tasting menu of ten to 12 “constantly evolving”dishes, plus threeor five-course options. More than 400 fine wines and champagnes are available.

Seating 54 people, the venue also has an 18-seat cocktail bar. Open for lunch Thurs-Sat and dinner Tues-Sat. 92 Kensington Park Road; tel +44 (0)20 3937 5086; corebyclaresmyth.com

Major new art museum opens in Cape Town

BA to fly HeathrowTenerife from October BRITISH AIRWAYS IS TO SERVE Tenerife South airport from London Heathrow for the first time. From October 21 until March 24, the carrier will fly weekly to the Canary island. The service will depart T5 on Saturdays at 0645, arriving at 1115, with the return flight leaving Tenerife at 1215, landing back at 1635. BA already serves the island from Gatwick. Recently opened properties include the Hard Rock Hotel Tenerife (pictured), which launched last autumn. From October 29, BA’s Heathrow routes to Palma, Malaga and Palermo will also go year-round. ba.com

THE MUCH-ANTICIPATED Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa opens on September 22 on Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront. The first major museum of its kind in Africa, it’s housed in the historic Grain Silo complex, which has been renovated by the UK’s Heatherwick Studio. Presenting works from across Africa and its diaspora, it comprises 80 galleries over nine floors.

Located above the museum is the luxurious new Silo hotel. Table Mountain views can be enjoyed from the rooftop restaurant and bar. Open 10am-6pm (until 10pm Fri, closed Tues); entry £10. zeitzmocaa.museum

FLIGHT

RESTAURANT

HEATHERWICK STUDIO

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SEPTEMBER 2017

64 I Watches

Magnetic force Chris Hall hails the revival of Omega’s ingenious Railmaster

Omega 60th anniversary Railmaster; ÂŁ5,040 omegawatches.com

SEPTEMBER 2017

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Watches I 65

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ith hindsight, it’s not hard to see how the post-war years gave birth to a generation of watches that have come to be venerated as icons.

This may seem a trivial take on a period of such geopolitical and social change, but the ramifications of the Atomic Age ran far and wide. Besides, the world of wristwatches was nothing like the esoteric passion it is today. The reason so many enduring, practical watch designs emerged between 1950 and 1960 is that they were essential tools. It was a period of rapid change that saw an explosion in popular science and a channelling of energy – so recently directed at conflict – into feats of adventure and derring-do.

While Rolex has perhaps reaped the richest rewards from this era – Hillary and Tenzing’s 1953 ascent of Everest was swiftly associated with the Explorer, while the launch of the Submariner in the same year tapped into the vogue for scuba diving – others were also alert to the possibilities. IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre, as well as names that have not aged as successfully, such as Eberhard, also released sturdy watches that spoke to this new period of technical exploration, with anti-magnetic casings and names that still evoke a bold, forward-looking vision: Geophysic, Ingenieur, Scientigraf.

Omega – then, as now, a major competitor to Rolex et al – was relatively slow to the punch. But it made up for it in droves when, in 1957, it launched the Seamaster, Speedmaster and Railmaster.

That you probably know the first two of those names says it all – these watches came to define Omega, and still do. But it’s the third one we’re interested in today: the Railmaster. Relative to the other two, it was not a success. Produced not to conquer the ocean depths or keep time of hair-raising Formula 1 laps, the Railmaster’s battle was against the forces

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Above: The 1957 Trilogy limited editions – Seamaster 300m, £5,600; Railmaster, £5,040; Speedmaster, £5,360

of magnetism. Less glamorous, but vital: a magnetic field can ruin a mechanical watch in seconds by causing the hairspring (the beating heart of any watch movement) to stick to itself, destroying any hope of proper timekeeping.

It boasted a double-layered soft iron case that formed a Faraday cage (capable of directing magnetic fields around, rather than through, the movement), combined with a thicker dial (1mm instead of 0.4mm). It could withstand fields of up to 1,000 Gauss – comparable with anything else on the market. At the time, it was aimed at the engineers and scientists at the vanguard of progress, but failed to strike a chord with the wider public. In 1963, it was discontinued.

The emergence of quartz watches in the 1970s did nothing to advance the cause of a mechanical watch like the Railmaster.

Omega half-heartedly brought the name back in 2003, but it wasn’t sufficiently different from other pieces in the range.

Now, however, 60 years after its debut, we have a proper Railmaster again. In March, Omega unveiled a trilogy of limited editions honouring the class of ’57, including a handsome Railmaster.

True to the original, at 38mm, it shares the “broad arrow” handset beloved of collectors, and comes with a faux-aged tint to its Superluminova hour markers.

A non-limited Railmaster is set to join it this autumn, with a utilitarian brushedsteel dial and more modern typography on the 12, 3, 6 and 9 numerals.

Where both excel is in the area that the Railmaster was always meant to – magnetic resistance. Since 2014, Omega has been rolling out a higher standard of magnetic resistance across its range.

Developed with the Swiss Metrology Institute and going by the name of Master Chronometers, they will withstand a 15,000 Gauss field. That’s more than you’ll ever need – but so is a 300m dive watch.

What it does mean is peace of mind; the optimism of the Atomic Age may seem a world away, but customers are now more likely than ever to run into small, powerful magnets thanks to their use in mobile devices and other gadgets. The Railmaster may have been born too soon for the watch buyers of the 1950s, but could be just what our modern world needs.

■ Chris Hall is editor of SalonQP.com SEPTEMBER 2017

66 I Escape to... Lake Como

Lakeside glamour Lake Como’s glittering waters and elegant villas are a haven for celebrities and mortals alike. Michelle Harbi checks in for a taste of the good life

SEPTEMBER 2017

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Escape to... Lake Como I 67

Left: Casta Diva Resort and Spa businesstraveller.com

SEPTEMBER 2017

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L

ake Como is a view you couldn’t tire of – whatever the weather or season, the panorama of water, forest and sky is never less than beguiling. We visited in late April and experienced it in all its guises. On our first day, bleak skies and bucketing rain threatened to stop play but it was a pleasure simply to sit back with a strong Italian coffee and watch the vista change gradually – clouds shrouding the tops of the mountains as boats passed in a stately fashion, interrupting the stillness of the shimmering lake.

By the following morning, all had cleared, the sun throwing everything into glorious technicolour – muted greys replaced with dazzling blues and greens, the low mist lifted to reveal snow capping the mountains, their bases dotted with pretty peach and yellow villas. And below, as ever, the boats passing, busier today with tourists taking in the view from the water.

Long known as a glamorous destination for the celebrity set, if you are looking for a luxurious break then Lake Como is hard to beat. About 50km north of Milan if you want to extend a business trip, it’s as little as 45 minutes’ drive from Malpensa airport depending on where you choose to stay.

Located east of lakes Maggiore and Lugano, in the foothills of the Alps, Lake Como is shaped like a slender two-pronged fork, with the city of Como itself situated at the foot of the western leg, and the popular town of Bellagio located in the centre, where the branches meet. We chose as our base the superb Casta Diva Resort and Spa, set right on the lake about 6km up the winding eastern shoreline from Como, in the comune of Blevio.

Part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the five-star luxury Casta Diva has a storied history. Villa Roccabruna, the grand house at the heart of the 26,000 sqm property, was originally built in 1797 and 30 years later was bought by soprano Giuditta Pasta. A muse of Bellini, she was the inspiration for his opera, Norma, and the first to sing its famous aria,“Casta Diva”.

Rebuilt in the early 20th century, it became a hotel in 2010 following considerable expansion. It now comprises 73 spacious rooms and suites split across nine villas set in manicured grounds. Designed in traditional or modern styles, most rooms have fabulous lake views that can be enjoyed from private balconies or terraces. My own suite was huge and had not one but two balconies, with understated, contemporary interiors that rightly deferred to the vista outside.

You could easily go to Casta Diva for the weekend and not leave the grounds. As well as containing ten suites, the main villa houses sumptuous, highceilinged salons for taking tea, and a cocktail bar for something stronger.

A covered walkway takes you to the expansive 1,300 sqm spa – home to everything from a Turkish bath to a Himalayan rose salt room – and fine-dining

68 I Escape to... Lake Como

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From top: Casta Diva suite; Bellagio; Como cathedral

restaurant L’Orangerie, which has a lake-view terrace and serves beautifully conceived and presented Mediterranean cuisine. Out front, meanwhile, and perfect for lazing the day away in peak season, is a floating pool and deck suspended right on the lake.

When you are ready to venture out, it’s worth setting aside at least half a day to explore Como itself – the resort lays on a free regular shuttle service (useful if you don’t have your own wheels, as taxis can be eye-wateringly expensive). We spent a happy afternoon wandering the narrow streets of the oncewalled old quarter – the Duomo (cathedral), built between the 14th and 18th centuries, is spectacular – and watching the locals go about their business from café terraces. Strolling the lakefront promenade was also lovely, and it was good to stumble across La Vita e Bella restaurant (Piazza Domenico Croggi 4), where we struggled to choose from the long list of bountiful, very reasonably priced salads on offer.

Still, you can’t spend all your time on dry land here – it’s a must to get out on the water and explore the lake. Casta Diva runs a tour to Bellagio and back on

As we sailed north, the lake widened to reveal ever more expansive views until Bellagio unveiled itself

■ Book a stay at Casta Diva Resort and Spa with Small Luxury Hotels of the World from €530 per night (two sharing) on a B&B basis.

Tel +44 (0)800 0482 314; slh.com/ castadiva SEPTEMBER 2017

its 20-seat boat (€85 per person, April to September/ October depending on weather). It wasn’t running on the day we had set aside, so instead we boarded a ferry from Como port. Services depart regularly throughout the day and you can hop on and off at the many villages that line the shore.

Our time was limited so we contented ourselves with heading straight for Bellagio, catching glimpses of local life in the towns – an outdoor karate class here, a game of basketball there – as the boat docked to offload and onload passengers. As we continued north – wondering which villa belonged to George Clooney – the lake widened to reveal ever more expansive views, until the densely packed pastel buildings of Bellagio unveiled themselves.

Undeniably beautiful and romantic, Bellagio is also very touristy, its waterfront terraces and steep alleyways packed with visitors even in spring. It has a wonderful atmosphere, though – La Punta (ristorantelapunta.it), on the edge of the town, looked like a particularly refined place to stop for lunch, with stunning views, while Bar Rossi, down by the ferry terminal, is an old-school spot for a negroni.

Still, after a couple of hours we were happy to retreat back to the tranquility of Casta Diva. Donning my thick white robe and snoozing on a sunbed by the floating pool, the early evening sun warming my face, I felt like a bit of a celebrity myself. ■ businesstraveller.com

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70 Taste Hong Kong

Dinner date The Business Traveller Asia-Pacific team tries out some new hotspots and old favourites in Hong Kong UMI

FLINT GRILL AND BAR

The newest dining venture from Hong Kong group Le Comptoir, Umi opened in February and offers authentic Japanese cuisine in easy walking distance of the Central business district.

Natural materials and minimalist décor create a zen-like environment, with a spectacular showpiece in the form of a hanging orchid tree. A set omasake (chef’s choice) menu is prepared live by fourth-generation sushi master Yukio Kimijima, with two seatings for ten patrons at a time (HK$1,588/£158 per person).

Our four appetisers comprised six-month dried rice with lavish shavings of French truffle; seasonal hirame (Japanese halibut) adorned with the vibrant hanaho flower; Narita-sourced abalone; and grilled Hokkaido scallop wrapped in seaweed with sweet chestnut.

The procession of ten sushi courses started with the lighter flavours of sayori, snapper and kohada fish, before the more meaty textures of akami and toro tuna.

A rich miso soup, a powerfully flavoured sea urchin roll, and a dessert of mochi and matcha Valrhona chocolate followed. Sake pairings are available.

Offering authentic Edomae sushi in a lovely environment, Umi is a fantastic addition to Hong Kong’s culinary scene. Tamsin Cocks ■ Open Mon-Sat 6.30pm-8pm, 8.30pm-10.30pm.

Shop 3, G/F, 159-163 Hollywood Road; tel +852 2956 3177; lecomptoir.hk/umi

Flint Grill and Bar may be housed on level five of the JW Marriott, but with its upmarket industrial-chic interior, it’s not your typical hotel restaurant. In 2016, it welcomed head chef Pieter Fitz-Dreyer, who has revamped the menu with inventive creations.

Our meal started with options “from the sea”.

First, Akaroa king salmon with oyster, charred cucumber and white balsamic (HK$190/£19) – a seafood sensation. Another standout was the Ahi tuna (HK$190/£19), prepared at the table. The fresh melt-in-the-mouth fish contrasted beautifully with homemade Nori crackers.

From the daily specials, we enjoyed the lobster ravioli smothered in a coconut sauce infused with Thai herbs and decorated with young asparagus tips.

The main event was the Linz Heritage USDA prime cut, 45-day dry-aged on the bone steak (20oz rib-eye HK$590/£58). The flavour of the matured meat was prominent, and not something for everyone.

Desserts included a crunchy, tangy apple crumble, which my companion declared the best she’d ever had in Hong Kong. Flint ticks all the boxes for both business travellers and locals looking for a high-end yet informal setting. Tamsin Cocks ■ Open 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm; bar 5pm-12am.

JW Marriott Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty; tel +852 2810 8366; marriott.com

SEPTEMBER 2017

Below: Umi Top and inset: Flint Grill and Bar Main picture: Yee Tung Heen

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Taste Hong Kong I 71

YEE TUNG HEEN

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SEPTEMBER 2017

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Located on the second floor of the Excelsior hotel in Causeway Bay, Yee Tung Heen is a superb example of Cantonese fine dining, with a new and innovative approach to the cuisine courtesy of executive chef Wong Wing Keung.

The décor is dramatic, with a contemporary artistic bamboo pattern in red and black leading through to floral-patterned partitions, which create five separate dining rooms and disguise the fact that this is a large restaurant (200 seats). There’s an elegant tea counter at the entrance where you can choose from a range of premium and bespoke blends.

The à la carte menu is huge, at 14 pages. We tried the twin mushroom platter (HK$248/£24), which won a “Gold with Distinction”award at the Hong Kong Tourism Board 2015 Best of the Best Culinary Awards. The two mushrooms were stuffed yet light in texture and flavour, exemplifying the subtle approach of the chef.

Another highlight was the steamed rice roll with tiger prawn, kale and beetroot dumpling served with prawn oil soy sauce (HK$128/£13). This well-known restaurant deserves a return visit – great food and service and some innovative cooking. Tom Otley ■ Open Mon-Sat 12pm-2.30pm, Sun 10.30am-3pm; dinner 6pm-10.30pm daily. 281 Gloucester Road; tel +852 2837 6790; mandarinoriental.com

72 Taste Hong Kong

BIZOU Opened in December last year on the ground floor of Pacific Place mall in Admiralty, Bizou offers Danish-born chef Magnus Hansson’s fresh interpretation of a classic American brasserie. The menu is farmto-table in style, with no GM foodstuffs and organic produce as the rule. The cool, comfortable interior features natural wood finishes, dark leather, wooden chairs and warm lighting.

To start, we chose fried Camembert cheese with cloudberry preserves, fried parsley and toasted sourdough; rich with the perfect combination of crusty skin and melting centre. The grilled octopus with crispy potatoes, olives, young celery, mint hummus, sumac, extra virgin olive oil and lemon offered a fascinating mix of flavours.

For mains, we tried the slow-braised boneless short ribs in red wine with potato purée, gailan green vegetables and fresh horseradish, and the pan-seared Icelandic cod fillet with butter, soft-boiled egg, cauliflower purée, sautéed kale and fresh horseradish.

The ribs were cooked beautifully, the meat shredding easily and filled with juicy flavour. The fish was also excellent, the crispy kale and horseradish injecting piquancy into an otherwise mild, creamy dish.

The wine list was strong on Italian bottles but with a good global spread, while the cocktail menu was highly creative. The atmosphere was a nice mix between modern and traditional, the service was excellent and the food consistently delicious.

HK$1,500-$2,000 (£145-£200) for a three-course meal for two with wine. Jeremy Tredinnick ■ Open daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Shop 132, L1, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway; tel +852 2871 0775; diningconcepts.com/restaurants/bizou

COBO HOUSE Open since March last year, Cobo House (short for “community of bohemians”) is an arty eatery tucked away in the Shek Tong Tsui district. It grows its own herbs and plants, while other ingredients are procured from local markets.

The menu is brief and to the point. For starters, we chose the “Mushroom” and “Crab”. The former consisted of a king trumpet mushroom, egg tofu and herb butter, along with more mushrooms, a panfried egg tofu cube and smashed potato. A hint of truffle subtly enhanced the flavour. For the mains, we selected the pork and the vegetarian somen. The slowcooked pork belly was served with charred spiced pineapple, giving the dish a slightly peppery taste.

A key part of Cobo’s appeal is its collaboration with Janice Wong, a Singapore-based chef known for founding 2am:dessertbar. The dessert menu offers three dishes, paired with beverages for HK$298 (£29).

We tried the Popcorn, a combination of sweet and savoury popcorn-flavoured parfait; Kyoto Garden, a floral dish with orange blossom ice cream in a white chocolate shell; and Basil White Chocolate, a sharp, fruity dish with passion fruit. Perhaps the most impressive dessert is the Cassis Plum (pictured), a signature creation of Wong’s that made an appearance on Masterchef Australia 2015. Craig Bright SEPTEMBER 2017

■ Open 12pm-

3pm, 6pm-12am daily. 8/12 South Lane, Shek Tong Tsui; tel +852 2656 3088; cobohouse.com businesstraveller.com

74 I 4 hours in...

Oslo Marisa Cannon wanders the Norwegian capital, taking in stunning architecture, historic hotels and sculpture-strewn parks

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OSLO OPERA HOUSE Perched on the edge of Oslo’s waterfront, the opera house is one of the city’s most striking landmarks, and a good place to start a tour of the Norwegian capital. A fortress of gleaming white Carrara marble and polished glass, its harsh angles and geometric shape pay homage to the country’s landscape, resembling a craggy, snow-capped mountain or an iceberg floating on the Oslo Fjord.

Built in 2008 by local architectural firm Snohetta, a number of the building’s features were designed to encourage public interest in the arts, such as the floor-to-ceiling

SEPTEMBER 2017

3 windows along its flanks, inviting you to peer in and watch set and costume production unfold. If you have time to spare, sign up to one of the 50-minute guided tours (kr 100/£9.60), or take a packed lunch to the rooftop for views across the water and surrounding islands. Kirsten Flagstads Plass 1; operaen.no/en

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GRAND HOTEL OSLO A 15-minute walk westward will take you to the Grand hotel, the annual host of the prestigious Nobel Peace Prize banquet, which has recently undergone a major

renovation. Opened in 1874, the property was a regular haunt of playwright Henrik Ibsen, who was known to dine in its Grand Café every lunch and dinnertime.

This is where Oslo-ites go to be seen, either for lunch in the café or dusk cocktails at Eight, the chic rooftop bar on the eighth floor.

Decked out with smart cushioned beds and sultry artwork, it offers finger food, local beer and a range of reinvented classic cocktails, alongside lovely views of the nearby Norwegian Storting parliament and National Theatre.

Try the “Nor Way” for a twist on the negroni, made with aquavit businesstraveller.com

4 hours in... I 75

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5 VIGELAND PARK

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GRAND HOTEL OSLO

NOBEL PEACE CENTRE

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OSLO OPERA HOUSE

NORSK FOLKEMUSEUM

NORSK FOLKEMUSEUM From the pier opposite, take a ten-minute ferry ride (these run March to October) to Bygdoy, on the western edge of the peninsula. This is one of the city’s more well-heeled neighbourhoods, with wide-set American-style avenues and grand homes. A five-minute walk from the jetty is the Norwegian Folk Museum. Its indoor and outdoor collections show how people lived before the Industrial Revolution, featuring artefacts from Norway’s indigenous Sami people and reproductions of traditional 18thand 19th-century homes, with interiors furnished as they would have been at the time.

Exhibitions include “Queering Sapmi”, a photography project about LGBT identities among the Sami, on until October 15.

Open weekdays 11am-3pm, weekends 11am-4pm from September 15 to May 14 (otherwise daily 10am-6pm); kr 130 (£12.50). Museumsveien 10; norskfolkemuseum.no

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4 and local bitter digestif Marka, or the “Ginger Club” – an update on the Clover Club with raspberry liqueur and a raspberry spirit, both distilled in Norway. Karl Johans Gate 31; grand.no

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NOBEL PEACE CENTRE A ten-minute stroll towards the waterfront will take you to the Nobel Peace Centre. While all other Nobel prizes are awarded in nearby Stockholm, the Peace Prize ceremony is held in Oslo. A tribute to this tradition is the Peace Centre, which charts the work and lives of former winners through a series of compelling exhibits. businesstraveller.com

At its heart is the story of the incumbent laureate Colombian president Juan Manuel Santos, whose landmark peace deal with Farc armed rebels in 2016 ended a bloody 52-year war.

Running until November 26, the “Hope Over Fear” photography exhibition shows the reality of the Colombian conflict, depicting soldiers working to clear areas of landmines, Colombian coca pickers and Farc members preparing to transition to normal life. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm during winter (daily in summer); kr 100 (£9.60). Brynjulf Bulls Plass 1; nobelpeacecenter.org

VIGELAND PARK Parks are an important part of Oslo’s landscape, and a number feature art installations by international and local artists. A ten-minute drive from the museum, in the north-eastern suburbs, is one of the most notable, Vigeland Park, which is the world’s largest sculpture park by a single artist.

Created by Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland in the 1940s, the park encompasses 32 hectares of landscaped gardens and lakes, strewn with more than 200 granite, bronze and cast-iron sculptures of human figures, portraying different stages of life. The most arresting is a monolith of stone-carved bodies, knotted and clambering over one another, toward the pillar’s highest point. It’s an intense, even unsettling sight, but it makes for a stunning photo. Free entry; Nobels Gate 32; vigeland.museum.no ■ SEPTEMBER 2017

76 I Time out in‌ Doha

Clockwise from top left: Grand Hyatt; Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara; Khor Al Adaid; dhow boats; Intercontinental

SEPTEMBER 2017

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Time out in… Doha I 77

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ttracting international visitors has become something of a preoccupation for Qatar, future host of the 2022 FIFA World Cup, and a burst of recent developments – such as the new Mall of Qatar – has widened the options for business travellers with some time to explore. Doha’s impressive five-star hotels, meanwhile, are an attraction in themselves, supporting a vibrant dining and nightlife scene (see page 80). Here are ten things to try both in the capital and the wider area.

1 HIT THE BEACH

3 CRUISE THE BAY Leave the land behind you and take to the water on one of the many dhow boat cruises that leave from the Corniche.

It’s worth it for the knockout views of the Doha skyline alone – particularly impressive at night as you sail the bay beneath a canopy of stars, enjoying a blowout barbecue buffet dinner. Another option is taking a gondola ride from Katara Village. Operators offering BBQ dhow cruises include Qatar International Adventures (four hours; QR 230/£48 per person; qia-qatar.com).

from Doha is a spectacle in itself, not least the moment you get your first view of the water from the crests of the dunes being navigated by the driver of your 4WD vehicle.

The sea can easily be experienced as part of an organised desert safari, along with activities such as sand boarding, quad biking and moonlit Bedouin-style barbecues. Operators include Falcon Tours, which offers half-day safaris from QR 390 (£83) per person, based on a trip for two (falcontoursqatar.com).

DOWNTIME in

6 VISIT A

Recharge after your MUSEUM business trip by catching Located in Al Samriya, some of that year-round 42km west of Doha, the sun, away from the fascinating display of restrictions of the local artefacts at Sheikh Faisal public beaches. Hotels Bin Qassim Al Thani offering day passes for Museum is based on the non-guests include the personal collection of Intercontinental Doha, Sheikh Faisal himself. It’s where tickets cost from centred on the four key QR 200 (£42) for adults on areas of Islamic art, local weekdays. It’s a great spot heritage, vehicles, and From camel racing and desert safaris to to get a resort-style R&R coins and currency, with top-class restaurants and spas, there’s experience either by the highlights including the much to enjoy in Qatar, says Karl Cushing pool or on the large beach Sheikh’s car collection and, once revived, you can and the impressive try your hand at some of Qatari fort it is housed the watersports available. in. Open Mon-Thurs 9am-4.30pm, Fri 4 PLAY A ROUND Also offering day access is the Grand 2pm-7pm, Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 9amHyatt Doha, with its curved beach and 4pm. Entry QR 15 (£3); fbqmuseum.org.

Doha Golf Club, the only 18-hole five pools. Options outside the city championship course in the country, include Sealine Beach Club, about an plays host to January’s Qatar Masters.

7 CHEER ON THE CAMELS hour’s drive from Doha and a good spot Other facilities include a driving range for activities. and a putting green, while novices If you find yourself in Qatar in the can practise their game at the on-site winter months then don’t miss one Qatar Golf Academy. The Arabic-style of the high-energy camel races held 2 RELAX IN A SPA clubhouse is well worth checking out at Al Shahaniya, 60km west of Doha. too. It costs from QR 300 (£63) to play Operators such as Qatar International Many of Doha’s high-end hotels are 18 holes or QR 200 (£42) for nine. You Adventures frequently combine a home to outstanding spa facilities, can book a tee time online and hire behind-the-scenes tour of the camel such as the Banana Island Resort equipment (dohagolfclub.com). racing track with a visit to the Sheikh Doha by Anantara and Kempinski Faisal museum – often with a look at Marsa Malaz on the Pearl, with the Racing and Equestrian Club, where its Spa by Clarins and hammam 5 HEAD INLAND the Qatari royal stables are based.

by Amra skincare. A personal favourite is the Six Senses spa at The Inland Sea, or Khor Al Adaid, is a Ritz-Carlton’s Sharq Village, the UNESCO-recognised site and one of 8 TOUR THE LANDSCAPE design of which creates a relaxed, the most popular destinations outside local atmosphere, with Arabian of Doha for tourists and locals alike.

Further west of Al Shahaniya lies treatments offered alongside the Here, the sea encroaches deep into the Zikrit and the Ras Abrouq peninsula, likes of Thai and Swedish. heart of the desert and the 86km journey an area of raw, barren beauty and

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DOHA

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SEPTEMBER 2017

78 I Time out in… Doha

wind-carved limestone rock formations.

Other attractions in the region – which is known for its archaeological sites, including some from the Neolithic era – are its secluded, remote beaches and a wild deer reserve.

While you’re there, check out the impressive East-West/West-East sculpture by artist Richard Serra in the nature reserve. Operators offering tours of the area include Discover Qatar (discoverqatar.qatarairways.com).

9 KAYAK IN THE MANGROVES For a less arid natural wilderness, head to Al Thakira Mangroves, 57km from Doha, to the north of the city of Al Khor.

The watery green wilderness is a haven for bird life, including flamingos and herons, and you can explore it by kayak.

Companies offering tours include Aqua Sport, which runs two options from the marina in Al Thakira – a mangrove exploration tour and a mangrove and flamingo beach tour – for QR 200/£42 (aquasportsqatar.com).

On the journey there from Doha, consider stopping off at the restored Al Zubarah Fort. This UNESCO World Heritage site is surrounded by a 60-hectare archaeological park and offers an interesting glimpse into the country’s past.

10 BE A SPORT

From top: Al Thakira mangroves; Aspire Zone; camel racing; Sheikh Faisal Museum

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Doha’s state-of-the-art sport facilities offer visitors the option of either watching a major event or having a go themselves. Top picks include the Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club, Khalifa International Tennis and Squash Complex and the sprawling Aspire Zone (aspirezone.qa), where standout facilities include the Hamad Aquatic Centre.

Petrolheads should consider heading north of Doha to the town of Losail.

The Losail International Circuit hosts a series of local and international motorsport events, from touring cars to superbikes, with a separate track for motocross. You can also get behind the wheel yourself, either on its karting track or on the circuit itself during a training day.

SEPTEMBER 2017

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80 I Time out in… Doha

FOOD AND DRINK BRUNCH SPOTS Friday brunches are a Doha institution – popular venues include W Doha, and Opal at the St Regis, one of three Gordon Ramsay offerings at the property (tel +974 4446 0000; opalbygordonramsaydoha.com). The St Regis’s range of restaurants also includes an impressive branch of modern Cantonese chain Hakkasan.

LOCAL DINING One of the best spots for local dishes is Souq Waqif, where great options include Shay Al Shoomos, Al Matbakh Rooftop Grill and Al Mourjan. Better still, try the branch of Al Mourjan on the Corniche, where the bay views are almost as spectacular as the Lebaneseinfluenced dishes (tel +974 4483 4423; almourjan.com).

IDAM Celebrated French chef Alain Ducasse’s 60-cover restaurant, Idam, boasts an enviable spot atop the Museum of Islamic Art, and has an interior designed by Philippe Starck. The sumptuous menu sees Mediterranean-style dishes lifted by Middle Eastern touches. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays (tel +974 4422 4488; alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/idam).

NOBU From the stylish interiors to its trademark Japanese cuisine, Nobu at the Four Seasons Doha impresses on many levels.

It’s a popular spot for cocktails, not least during happy hour, which takes place from 6pm to 8pm daily except on Saturdays, and the packed ladies’ nights on Mondays (tel +974 4494 8888; fourseasons.com/doha).

PIERRE MONETTA

CITY CENTRE ROTANA Varied options at the five-star hotel include Teatro, for fusion food encompassing Chinese, Indian, Italian, Japanese and Thai cuisines; Misk, for Lebanese cooking; and the Cheers-inspired Boston’s bar (tel +974 4445 8888; rotana.com). ■ Top: Opal by Gordon Ramsay Middle: Idam Bottom: Nobu at the Four Seasons SEPTEMBER 2017

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82 I Snapshot

New Amsterdam Schiphol opens Alex McWhirter looks back at the launch of Schiphol’s famous single terminal 50 years ago

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msterdam’s award-winning airport is renowned for its single terminal. Whereas other major global hubs have two, three, four or even more terminals, Schiphol has coped with one for 50 years.

The advantage for passengers is ease of connectivity. When the new terminal opened on the Schiphol airfield in 1967, it was considered a wonder of the aviation age. So much so that I

SEPTEMBER 2017

flew home from Cologne (where I was at the time) via Amsterdam to see it for myself.

What set Schiphol apart was that it was the first European facility specifically designed for transfer passengers and shopping. This continues to suit home airline KLM, as most of its customers travel through, rather than to, Amsterdam. It is backed up with six runways and its own rail station linked to Europe’s high-speed network.

Schiphol is vital for the Netherlands, contributing €30 billion annually to the Dutch economy. It provides 300,000 jobs directly and indirectly, while 64 million passengers used the airport last year.

Over the years, the single terminal has expanded to meet demand, but after half a century it is feeling the pressure.

Passengers complain about congestion and distances between gates. A second terminal will soon be necessary. ■

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