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CAMERON DALLAS THE OTHER SIDE OF BRANDON FLOWERS / VIRGIL ABLOH’S MOST IMPORTANT PROJECT DEATH TO TENNIS AND SHAMEIK MOORE ON FILMIC INFLUENCE / FALL FASHION FOREVER CROSSBODY CROSSOVER SCENTS / EXPLORING BACCARAT ’S 250-YEAR-OLD FACTORY

AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2017

N e w Yo r k

Los Angeles

South Coast Plaza

j o h nv a r v a t o s . c o m

Machine Gun Kelly New York, NY 2017

Talliaorange.com 1.800.336.9363

ESSENTIAL HOMME

028 MOST WANTED Ten most-desired items you must have this season.

038 QUIET LULL On untouched lands, time moves slowly if at all as we drop down our guards.

050 NEW ARRIVALS The latest style collaborations and product launches.

056 SCENE From daytime jaunts to after-hour evenings, our favorite summer flings favored smiles from cheek to cheek.

060 STYLE Do plaid better. These brazen and bold combos bring freshness to time old tartan.

072 THE FLANEUR PHOTOGRAPHED BY RYAN PLETT.

Captivated by simple discoveries, on and on he went, no stranger to the gift of solitude.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

082 CHORUS LINE This fall, stick with all the classics. Strong textures like corduroy and velvet and ashen-colored hues, when combined, recall an uncomplicated coolness.

0 94 CONVERSATIONS Fashion brand Death to Tennis’ founders Vincent Oshin and William Watson talk film and fate with actor Shameik Moore.

100 BOILING POINT Off-White’s Virgil Abloh exhibits his most important show at Pitti Uomo 92 in Florence, Italy.

106 COLLATERAL SPIRIT Paula Gerbase continues John Lobb’s sartorial reign.

112 TOUR DE L’ HISTOIRE An intimate look at the Baccarat factory, where special edition crystal has been crafted for the past 250 years.

122 AGAIN THE MAN

PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN BENOLIEL.

Ahead of The Killers’ new album, Brandon Flowers considers his past, present, and future.

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CHÂTEAU BACCARAT DEGUSTATION W W W. B A C C A R AT. C O M N E W Y O R K • G R E E N W I C H • P A L M D E S E R T • S O U T H C O A S T P L A Z A • L A S V E G A S • H O U S T O N • 8 0 0 . 7 7 7. 0 1 0 0

ESSENTIAL HOMME

132 DOUBLE TAP After viral success, social wonderboy Cameron Dallas finds new fame offline.

148 WHEN DARKNESS FALLS Somber but not dramatic, this season’s most compelling designers take nuance seriously.

160 THE DO-OVER Consider this reparative routine a big-boost for fall.

162 NEW NOTES These redolent salves, soaps, and creams offer a subtle way to wear scent as summer becomes autumn.

164 SHARP SPACES

PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRISTOPHER FERGUSON.

After an expansive four-year renovation, the iconic Hôtel de Crillon returns more decadent than ever.

22

® TERRY LU Editor-in-Chief & Creative Director

ON THE COVER

ALGIS PUIDOKAS

Cameron Dallas photographed

by Austin Hargrave wearing GIVENCHY. Givenchy.com.

Publishing Director

Styled by Jason Rembert

LANMING CHEN Design Director

Grooming by Sydney Sollod at The Wall Group using Oribe

JOSHUA GLASS

Fashion Assistants: Daniel Jones and Ethan Cole

Managing Editor

Photo Assistants: Thomas Patton and Keith Coleman

ELLIE ROGERS Associate Market Editor

Production Assistant: Frank Carino

LAURA BERTOCCI Copy Editor CHRIS LOWERY Photography and Bookings

ON THE COVER Brandon Flowers photographed by Nik Hartley in JOHN VARVATOS. JohnVarvatos.com

PATRICK GALIZIO Assistant Editor

Styled by Christopher Preston Grooming by Ben Jones using Windle & Moodie and M.A.C. Cosmetics

Contributing Writers August Thompson, Heather Rabkin, Jonathan Shia, Katie Dickens, Stephanie Smith-Strickland

Photo Assistant: Ho Hai Tran

Contributing Photographers Austin Hargrave, Ben Benoliel, Christopher Ferguson, Daniel Clavero, Fabien Montique, Kevin Sinclair, Nao Fujishiro, Nik Hartley, Ryan Plett, Vincent Dilio Contributing Stylists Alex van der Steen, Christopher Preston, James Sleaford, Jason Rembert, Paul Frederick, Stevie Dance Interns Dewey Sim, Younsong Lee

Retouching by Lucie Silveira

ESSENTIALHOMMEMAG.COM

FACEBOOK.COM/ESSENTIALHOMMEMAGAZINE @ESSENTIAL_HOMME

@ESSENTIALHOMME

@ESSENTIALHOMME

ADVERTISING ROGER M. ANTIN Publisher TEL: 646-707-0898 FAX: 646-726-4653

ALGIS PUIDOKAS Publishing Director TEL: 646-755-8089 FAX: 646-726-4653

JASMINE CHEN Publishing & Advertising Coordinator TEL: 646-755-8568 FAX: 646-726-4653

Essential Homme (ISSN 1949-6486), is published bimonthly (6 times a year) by Essential Publications U.S. LLC, 14 East 4th Street, Suite 604, New York, NY 10012 U.S.A. TEL: (646) 707-0898 , FAX: (646) 726-4653. Email: info@essentialhommemag.com.

Website www.essentialhommemag.com. Copyright 2010-2016 by Essential Publications U.S. LLC. All rights reserved. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to: Essential Publications U.S. LLC, 14 East 4th Street, Suite 604, New York, NY 10012. Essential Homme is a registered trademark of Essential Publications U.S. LLC. Products named in these pages are trade names or trademarks of their respective companies. Single copy price is $9.95 U.S./CANADA. Subscription prices: United States and possessions: $32.95 for one year, $55.95 for two years. Canada and International: $57.95 for one year, $105.95 for two years. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within 6-8 weeks after receipt of order. Occasionally we share our information with reputable companies whose products and services might interest you. If you prefer not to participate in this opportunity, please call and indicate that to the operator at 877-875-8141. To order the subscription or should you have any problem with your subscription, call 877-875-8141 or log on to www.essentialhommemag.com or write to Essential Homme P.O. Box 3000 Denville, NJ 07834. Essential Homme is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or art. None will be returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage and envelope. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Essential Homme P.O. Box 3000 Denville, NJ 07834. Printed in the U.S.A.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

MOST WANTED Ten most-desired items you must have this season.

WORDS BY JOSHUA GLASS - PHOTOGR APHED BY NAO FUJISHIRO

NEW CL ASSIC

BURBERRY Burberry’s latest line of accessories takes from the most iconic item in the house’s oeuvre: the trench coat. Translated into supple leather inspired by the honey-colored gabardine fabric— along with an oversized brass tone lock and key—timelessness ensues. The small DK88 satchel, $1,750, Burberry.com.

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MOS T WANTED

PIECE OF WORK

Flashy silver hardware and hand-applied studs decorate this rugged calf leather boot. Weathered in that worn-sole, workwear kind of way, cousin metal heel plates and toe caps add the rebellious punkiness Alexander McQueen has fashionably mastered. Black leather hobnail lace up boot, $2,280,

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

available at Alexander McQueen, NYC and AlexanderMcQueen.com.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

REDOLENCE OF THE WELL READ

The wise words of Dante take new meaning in this fiery fragrance from the house of Ferragamo. With Tuscany as its backdrop, the scent—a referential infusion of fresh citrus bitters, peppery cardamom, and sexy pimento—proposes epochal poetry and woody spice in a polished flacon. Tuscan Soul La

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Commedia, $190 for 2.5oz, available at Saks Fifth Avenue.

30

MOS T WANTED

REAR VIEW MIRROR

A thrill of nostalgia surges through these New Wave-inspired, mirrored-masking frames from Dior Homme. Ultra-light, they’re pieced together by a rail-thin metal that is rounded out on each end.

Yesterday never looked quite so good—or orange.

DIOR HOMME

Mirrored sunglasses, $495, available at Dior Homme boutiques.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

BREAKING GROUND

Bally brings back a 1950s favorite—a classic derby loafer tethered by an extreme, shark tooth sole—in a newer, sleeker vision today. Rendered in minerallytanned French calf leather, the ivy green pair harkens cutting edge with heritage. Ivy derby blaster, $650,

BALLY

available at Bally, NYC.

32

MOS T WANTED

BIRDS OF A FEATHER

The world’s most ancient spices—a rich array of vanilla, sandalwood, and patchouli—complete this highly-coveted scent inspired by the conquest of the seven seas. Adorned by brilliant, gold-enameled wings, the clear crystal candle is a calling card for discovery of the senses. Oceans gold edition crystal

LALIQUE

candle, $2,100, available at Lalique, NYC and Lalique.com.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

WORLD WIDE TR AVEL

Over 30,000 strands of gray, black, and white thread converge for this new concept of Bottega Veneta’s signature intrecciato weaving technique.

Creating a map-like, textured surface, special embroidery adds to this unique briefcase, named Atlas, with a removable strap for ease of exploration. Briefcase in nero metropolis intrecciato

BOTTEGA VENETA

nappa, $3,100, available at 800-845-6790.

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MOS T WANTED

COMF Y CARRY

Material of the moment, shearling makes up this streetwear inspired pouch, which is warmly padded for precious goods atop a base leather. Loudly branded in contrasting black and white, style tops subtlety in this case. Stark shearling stripe pouch,

MCM

$1,295, MCMWorldwide.com.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

ALL SIDES NOW

Surround sound takes on a new meaning in this uber modern, high-grade aluminum speaker that powerfully fires audio in every direction. Touch sensitive and portable via reachable battery, music is now easier, everywhere. Beosound 1 in brass, $1,495, available at

BANG & OLUFSEN

Bang & Olufsen stores and Bang-Olufsen.com.

36

MOS T WANTED

CHILD’S PL AY

Tiny molds of gleeful dinosaurs and toy cars in spectacular yellow and printer cyan-blue cover the toes of these special edition Nike sneakers, a custom project for Rei Kawakubo’s Homme Plus fall line. Spirited, these relics of the past brush against their adjoining collection’s sartorial maturity. Black

COMME DES GARÇONS

Nike Air Force 1 custom by Comme des Garçons, $470, White Nike Air Force 1 custom by Comme des Garçons, $470, available at Comme des Garçons, NYC and Dover Street Market, NYC.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

QU I E T LULL

On untouched lands, time moves slowly if at all as we drop down our guards.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY RYAN PLETT STYLED BY PAUL FREDERICK

38

W H E N D AS RCKE N N EE S S F A L L S

Coat by MAISON MARGIELA Sweater by LOUIS VUITTON Pants by ISSEY MIYAKE MEN 39

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Coat, pants, and boots by DOLCE&GABBANA Shirt by BILLY REID

40

QUIET LULL

Blazer, sweater, and pants by BERLUTI Boots by DOLCE&GABBANA

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

Sweater by DRIES VAN NOTEN

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QUIET LULL

Total look by CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

Total look by LOEWE

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QUIET LULL

Shirt by BEN SHERMAN Sweater by VINCE Pants by DOLCE&GABBANA

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

46

QUIET LULL

Sweater by HERMÈS

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

Jacket by DRY CLEAN ONLY Coat by OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH Shirt by COMME DES GARÇONS SHIRT Pants by SACAI

48

QUIET LULL

Coat and sweater by PRADA Scarf by GUCCI Model: Ben Bowers at IMG Grooming by Alicia Marie Campbell at See Management using Vaughn V76 Photo Assistant: Damian Brown Fashion Assistant: Julia Ryll

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

NEW ARRIVALS The latest style collaborations and product launches.

What’s a little bit rock ‘n’ roll, a tad suave, and pairs just as smartly with suit trousers as with denim? Meet the humble boot, dreamt up by Haider Ackermann’s design genius. The Parisian-based designer has developed a cult following, largely centered around his avant-garde aesthetic and masterful technique. His debut fall collection for Berluti was no exception, as he imbued a sense of regal swagger into the accessories that pounded the runway. Take the Bergen boot, a classic combat shape with arresting details, such as a bold lace-up front and interior zipper. Another new and now signature style is the Austin, a modern version of a low rocker boot (his mood board did have clips of Bowie, after all) with a slip-on design rendered in materials ranging from glazed calfskin to lizard. HEATHER RABKIN • $2,030 — $6,750, available at Berluti, NYC. 50

IMAGE COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER.

SHOES TO FILL

NEW ARRIVALS

THE BIG TEN Last February, fan favorite designer Robert Geller celebrated his decade mark with 15 screens above his runway, each projecting one of the most emblematic looks from his eponymous brand. Ten years in an industry so constantly engulfed in battle is no easy feat, and to celebrate, the assortment that followed seemed to nod their heads in unrest. Titled Love and War, the anniversary collection references militarization, protest, and revolt in sharp tailoring with an aged, yet romantic coolness. Highlighter-colored scuba accessories covered closed lips and clenched fists in contrast to the subdued black, brown, and burgundy “combat sneakers” worn on models’ feet—a new collaboration with Common Projects. “Ten years is one quarter of my life. My life’s biggest work and it seems to have flown by,” says the designer. “I always wanted to create clothes that mean something. That can connect with people. Give them confidence. Feel comfort. Make a positive impact on their lives. What could be greater than that?” JOSHUA GLASS • $210 — $585, available at Notre, Chicago and Ssense.com.

GOOD JEANS For 15 years, LA-based label Vince has been quietly churning out wardrobe essentials that are triple threats: luxurious, timeless, and infinitely wearable. The line’s next collection, formally dubbed Vince Core Denim, focuses on jeans—perhaps the most universally beloved material to sheathe one’s lower extremities—especially amongst Angelenos. The three new fits include straight, slim, and skinny. Each style is crafted from prized Japanese denim (Japan treats the material with artistic reverence) and made in the company’s SoCal headquarters. A denim jacket, available in two vintage-inspired washes, rounds out the inaugural offering. HEATHER RABKIN • $225

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS.

— $275, available at Vince stores nationwide and Vince.com.

SMELLS LIKE TEAM SPIRIT Master of complicated olfactives with an easy-tounderstand cult following, Cire Trudon extends its haute parfumerie from candles to the body with its first collection of fragrances. Crafted by three 51

artisanal noses, the five scents draw upon religion, royalty, and revolution to blur codes of character.

From the sensual Bruma by Antoine Lie, ripe with black pepper, lavender, and galbanum on its head, to Lyn Harris’ Olim, a spicy bergamot, pink peppercorn, and patchouli-filled emotional spritz, the eponymous set—all encased in minimal bottles by Pauline Deltour meant to mirror the maison’s candles—stand just as strong apart as they do together. JOSHUA GLASS • $190 each, available at Barneys New York.

ESSENTIAL HOMME

TIME AGAIN To celebrate two decades of one of the most revered designs of all time, Nike is bringing back the Air Max 97 in an exciting array of new lives. “[It’s] an eternally futuristic shoe,” reminisces Dylan Raasch, director of the brand’s sportswear and running line today. The sneaker has combined vivid fierceness with high-tech comfort and a unique “wavy” aesthetic for the past 20 years, uniting fashion and sport. Its rerelease now, which includes a souped-up Ultra style in addition to metallic and luxe gold colorways, only adds to that unchanging vision.

“The Air Max 97 Ultra retains the spirit of the OG with an improved experience,” says Raasch, who made the shoe lighter than ever before. “We updated the airbag, which is tuned softer, and the foam around so that it is streamlined to be closer to the ground.” The next chapter in a long cultural history that follows a collaborative tease earlier this year from the brand and Riccardo Tisci, it’s time to get reintroduced. AUGUST THOMPSON • $160, Nike.com.

PLUSH PLAY In just a few short collections, British talent Craig Green has risen from the student level to one of the most important menswear designers of our time, introducing and then finessing an emotional sensibility truly never seen before.

His new project with outerwear extremes giant Moncler—easily the designer’s most large scale vision to date—pushes this vulnerability in sheer power. Oversized pieces in tonal monochrome are embellished by criss-crossing diamond Boudin quilting and micro-tagged—Volume becomes yet another tool of ascent.

Frame, the trailblazing new maestro of denim, is heading north.

After bringing a unique fusion of British-cool and Californian design to Melrose Place, New York, and London, founders Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson are opening a second San Francisco retail output. The store continues a trend of dizzying success for Frame, which has had collaborations with everyone from Karlie Kloss to Byredo’s Ben Gorham. Inspired by the city itself, the new location updates its existing retail concept (seen here) with a warm palette and a homey, built-in living room that makes the shop a new landmark in the Bay Area. AUGUST

$680 — $4,415, available at Moncler, Madison Avenue, NY and Beverly Hills, CA. JOSHUA GLASS •

THOMPSON • 2142 Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA. 52

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS.

DOUBLE FEATURE

NEW ARRIVALS

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER.

FA N C Y F R A M E WO R K From princes of Denmark to an elite naval unit, Lindberg frames have rested upon a wide range of faces. The latter, better known as The Sirius Patrol, are soldiers tasked with patrolling 60,000 square miles of Northern Greenland’s icy expanses, and who recently went to the Danish eyewear label with a simple need: protection from the strong glare of sunlight reflected on the snow. The result? The creation of the new Sirius Titanium collection. Lindberg developed a curved front design with innovative side shields, all fashioned from the company’s famed ultra-light titanium material. Now, an ultra-sleek version has been created for everyday wear, featuring the same screwless hinge system.

The interchangeable lenses can take you from sunlight to indoors and be worn with equal aplomb alongside everything from swim trunks to office attire.

HEATHER RABKIN • $595, Lindberg.com.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

EYE OF THE TIGER Revisiting its historical origins, Kenzo honors over 50 years of Parisian upheaval with the launch of the house’s Momento series.

Pulling details from its original 1983 collection and subsequent campaign, the new, archival-inspired pieces are grown from natural intricacies: vibrant florals drench heavy winter downs and light cotton poplins, where birds of flight are trapped within slimfit knits and layered outerwear. Roaring with intensity, a new sneaker, the Kenzo Move, completes the head-to-toe touting compilation—a pinpointed anchor within an ever-trailing timespan. PATRICK GALIZIO • $130 — $1,325, Kenzo.com.

BODY TALK Despite its effortless intent, Les Girls Les Boys—the latest intimates label from rebel-raiser Serena Rees of Agent Provocateur infamy—bears weight. Equal parts delicate and efficient, the new brand releases a collection of under- and casual wear that is unencumbered in a quiet assortment of comfortable clothing that fights against hyper-real body archetypes.

Dreamy and irresistibly undefined, the soft edges of the inaugural collection lend themselves to interpretation—a range of neutral-toned “sheet to street” pieces that prove discreet, roiling style is a force to be reckoned with. PATRICK GALIZIO • $25 — $143, LesGirlsLesBoys.com.

Man of many titles (DJ, designer, art director, and party-thrower) Marcelo Burlon has combined Country of Milan’s forces with streetwear extraordinaire Kappa to deliver a throwback capsule collection that is as sporty as it is stylish. With a focus on multiculturalism and the distinct nostalgia of the former, the duo sees T-shirts, sweatshirts, and sweatpants in simmering red, earthy brown, and classic black. Featuring Kappa’s iconic logo and an intricate border, this collection brings flash and flair to casual wear.

AUGUST THOMPSON • $200 — $400, MarceloBurlon.eu.

54

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS.

KICK BACK AND RELAX

NEW ARRIVALS

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NAO FUJISHIRO.

N OW S E RV I N G Luxury is a dish best served on the new Tie-Set porcelain dinner service from Hermès. Not for the uniform or systematic, this zany pile-up of pieces is meant to clash and thrash—the mandarin, mint green, and garnet filets an easy-to-pair, harder-to-resist cacophony of color. Available in nearly two dozen designs with 34 total pieces, the combinations seem endless—dinner plates, teacups, tumblers, and more provide an eye-catching circus that’s as creatively capable as you wish it to be.

Pavage, Maille H, Comète designs—familiar to the house’s necktie family—create a dizzying geometric that is discreet, yet detailed, causing a multiplication of aesthetics in the most intricate way. A devious display, this artisanal arsenal is the perfect marriage between homegrown warmth and that classic Hermès grace. PATRICK GALIZIO • $85 — $930, available Hermès stores nationwide.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

SCENE From the sweatiest parties to the swankiest sit-downs, our eye on what happens during the most happening of times.

WORDS BY JOSHUA GLASS

FROM DAYTIME JAUNTS TO AFTER-HOUR EVENINGS, OUR FAVORITE SUMMER FLINGS FAVORED SMILES FROM CHEEK TO CHEEK.

56

IMAGE COURTESY OF BFA NYC.

FEELING FINE

SCENE

NEW YORK

INNER CIRCLE Fr i e n d s , f a c e s , a n d f a s h i o n w h o ’s w h o s j o i n e d Raf S i m o n s i n Ch i n atow n , j u s t b l o c ks f ro m h i s f u tu r i s ti c S p r i n g 2 0 1 8 r u nw ay b a c kd ro p , to c e l e b rate th e d e s i g n e r ’s l o n g - s t a n d i n g c o l l a b o rati o n w i th Ad i d a s at B a c a ro ’s d a r k , d i r t y d ow n s t a i r s l o u n g e .

LONDON

OUT & ABOUT

IMAGES COURTESY OF BFA NYC AND COS.

C O S i g n i te d a c re ati ve c re w fo r th i s ye a r ’s Pa r k N i g ht s o c c u r re n c e at th e S e r p e nti n e G a ll e r i e s , w h e re f a n s of a r t , d e s i g n , a n d f a s h i o n c o n g re g ate d u n d e r Fra n c i s Ké ré’s awa rd w i n n i n g 2 0 17 p av i l i o n .

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

PARIS

BURNING MAN At the Institut du Monde Arabe, during Paris’ hottest week of the year, Jonathan Anderson celebrated craf t and craze with a designerfilled fiesta, appropriately named Fire of Youth Summer of Loewe.

NEW YORK

TANTRIC TRINITY

IMAGES COURTESY OF LOEWE AND BFA NYC.

Ir v i n g Pl az a b e c a m e a p o r t a l to th e u n d e rg ro u n d — a n d th e b a re l y d re s s e d — a s N e w Yo r k ’s f i n e s t d ow n e d a d ev i o u s eve n i n g of b u r l e s q u e , b u b b l y, a n d b r i g ht- eye d p o e tr y i n h o n o r of D o m Pé r i g n o n’s th re e n e w v i nt a g e s .

58

SCENE

BRIDGEHA MPTON

NO RUNNING

IMAGES BY MATTHEW EISMAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR MOËT & CHANDON AND BFA NYC, AND COURTESY OF THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL.

M o ë t & Ch a n d o n a n d Revo l ve b ro u g ht th e i r Ch a m p a g n e - s u p p l i e d s u m m e r s e r i e s b a c k o u t e a s t w i th a s u p e r m o d e l - s tu d d e d p o o l p a r t y h o s te d by Trav i s S c ot t .

WINDSOR

PLEAD THE FIFTH Th e B r i ti s h Fa s h i o n C o u n c i l c l i n ke d to f i ve ye a r s of M e n ’s We e k w i th a s e r i e s of a r t f u l af f a i r s — i n c l u d i n g a n e o n c o l l a b o rati o n w i th Tra c ey Em i n — th at e n d e d w i th a g a rd e n g re e n fê te at c a s a d e D av i d Fu r n i s h w i th Lq D S k i n c a re .

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

STYLE A study on what’s trending this season.

CHECK OUT WORDS BY JOSHUA GLASS - PHOTOGRAPHED BY A.P. KIM - STYLED BY TERRY LU

DO PLAID BETTER. THESE BRAZEN AND BOLD COMBOS BRING FRESHNESS TO TIME OLD TARTAN.

60

STYLE

THINK BIG Forget the close-up; large scale patterns promise a statement-making moment at any point of view. this page:

Double-breasted coat, $1,254, hungarian wool sweater, $387, MP MASSIMO PIOMBO. MpMassimoPiombo.com. Gobigold pinstripe trousers, price upon request, CARUSO. CarusoMenswear.com. Medium silver circle earrings (one shown), price upon request, GIVENCHY. Similar styles available at Givenchy, NYC. opposite page:

Woven wool coat, $3,900, ETRO. Etro.com.

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

this page:

Shearling and leather coat, $9,150, wool knit sweater, $700, wool trousers, $1,330, MARNI. Available at Marni boutiques. opposite page:

Black and white sport coat, $350, TALLIA ORANGE. Available at Macy’s. Grey plaid overcoat, $350, white point collar premium shirt, $70, grey stripe trouser, $125, TOPMAN DESIGN. Available at Topman, Fifth Avenue NYC and Topman.com.

62

STYLE

MORE REASON TO Layer pieces of plaid with prints of another for an interesting intermingling of visual accoutrements.

63

ESSENTIAL HOMME

OUT OF THE BOX Broaden your horizons. Put down the standard button-down for an unexpected pop of plaid in adventurous outerwear that inspires.

64

STYLE

this page:

Naval long coat, $790, HILFIGER EDITION. Tommy.com. Iamens shirt, $477, MARCELO BURLON COUNTY OF MILAN. MarceloBurlon.eu. Rebel at heart collection maori large cross, $498, rebel at heart collection venezia chain, $239, THOMAS SABO. ThomasSabo.com. opposite page:

Check rain coat, $1,055, AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI. AmiParis.fr. Wool tartan shirt with front pockets, $870, STELLA MCCARTNEY. Available at Stella McCartney, NYC and StellaMcCartney.com.

65

ESSENTIAL HOMME

this page:

Houndstooth check duffle coat, $2,050, STELLA MCCARTNEY. Available at Stella McCartney, NYC and StellaMcCartney.com.

Pence trouser, $495, MP MASSIMO PIOMBO. MpMassimoPiombo.com. opposite page:

Trovatore double-breasted wool coat, price upon request, CARUSO. CarusoMenswear. com. Blue sport coat, $295, TALLIA ORANGE. Bonton.com. Organic cotton simon shirt, $345, STELLA MCCARTNEY. Available at Stella McCartney, NYC and StellaMcCartney.com. No smoking pin, $425, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO. Available at Saint Laurent, 57th Street NYC and Ysl.com. Karabiner belt, $240, ISSEY MIYAKE MEN. Available at Issey Miyake, NYC. Models: Matt Pitt and Omar Ahmed at Fusion Grooming by Marco Campos at Atelier using Bumble and bumble and Malin+Goetz Associate Market Editor: Ellie Rogers Photo Assistant: Sarah Emerson 66

STYLE

ALL IN ONE For a mix that keeps it in the family, place different plaids in the same look.

The spectrum creates harmony with just the right amount of tension.

67

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS.

LOEWE

MP MASSIMO PIOMBO

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

THE KOOPLES

STELLA MCCARTNEY

MISSONI

HILFIGER EDITION

STYLE

EXTRA CREDIT PLAID-PRIMED ACCESSORIES DELIVER DISTINCTION IN SMALLER PACKAGES. FOR MORE MILEAGE OPT FOR A MAGNIFIED PRINT ON YOUR FAVORITE BAG OR COLORING YOUR TRENDY SNEAKER.

Queercore brogue boot, $1,490, GUCCI. Available at select Gucci stores nationwide and Gucci.com.

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS.

Tartan patchwork wallet in green, $198, COMME DES GARÇONS. Available at Comme des Garçons, NYC and Dover Street Market, NYC.

Patchwork sweater, $2,045, MISSONI. Missoni.com.

Plaid backpack, price upon request, BALLY. Bally.com

Robertus flat, $1,250, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. Available at Christian Louboutin Men’s boutique, NYC, LA, and ChristianLouboutin.com

Will scarf in tobacco, $120, A.P.C. Available at A.P.C., Mercer Street NYC and APC.fr.

Check tote, $299, HILFIGER EDITION. Tommy.com.

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IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS.

MARTINE ROSE

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

ALEXANDER WANG

NEIL BARRETT

UNRAVEL

HERMÈS

LOUIS VUITTON

STYLE

PACK IT ON

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS.

SLOUCHED OVER THE SHOULDER OR CARRIED OPEN-FACE BY THE PALM, THE 80S SIDEKICK IS BACK AND BETTER THAN EVER. PAIR YOUR FANNY ATOP ANY FORMAL NUMBER FOR A QUICK, CASUAL UPDATE.

Bumbag with floral patches, $26, ASOS. Asos.com.

Buffalo effect vitello belt bag, $1,325, VERSACE. Available at select Versace stores.

Nylon hip pouch, $845, DOLCE&GABBANA. Available at select Dolce&Gabbana boutiques.

Coco Capitรกn logo belt bag, $1,250, GUCCI. Available at select Gucci stores nationwide and Gucci.com.

Dark maroon crocodile printed calfskin belt handbag, $2,150, BALENCIAGA. Available at Balenciaga, Mercer Street NYC.

Oversized banana waistbag, $195, AMI X EASTPAK. AmiParis.fr.

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THE FLANEUR Captivated by simple discoveries, on and on he went, no stranger to the gift of solitude.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRISTOPHER FERGUSON STYLED BY JAMES SLEAFORD

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THE FLANEUR

Sweater by DRIES VAN NOTEN Turtleneck by ACNE STUDIOS Pants by MAISON MARGIELA

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Jacket and turtleneck by ACNE STUDIOS Pants and shoes by MAISON MARGIELA

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THE FLANEUR

Jacket by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Tank top by DIOR HOMME

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Total look by PRADA

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THE FLANEUR

Coat by LANVIN Pants and shoes by HERMÈS

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Total look by MAISON MARGIELA

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THE FLANEUR

Sweater by SANDRO

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Total look by SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

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THE FLANEUR

Coat by DIRK BIKKEMBERGS Shirt and pants by LOUIS VUITTON Model: Paul Barge at Elite Paris Grooming by Stéphanie Farouze Fashion Assistants: Khuyen Do and Laureen Gazio

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CHORUS This fall, stick with all the classics. Strong textures like corduroy and velvet and ashen-colored hues, when combined, recall an uncomplicated coolness.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DANIEL CLAVERO STYLED BY PAUL FREDERICK

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on left:

Total look by Z ZEGNA on right:

Total look by TOMMY HILFIGER Stylist’s own ties throughout

ESSENTIAL HOMME

on left: Total look by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI in middle left: Total look by BOGLIOLI in middle right: Total look by FREEMANS SPORTING CLUB on right: Total look by RALPH LAUREN

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on left: Pants by KITON Shoes by PAL ZILERI on right: Total look by GUCCI

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Total look by HERMÈS

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on left:

Total look by BOGLIOLI in middle:

Total look by BRIONI on right:

Total look by KITON 87

on left: Total look by BOSS in front: Total look by DIOR HOMME in back: Total look by CARUSO on right: Total look by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

CHORUS LINE

Total look by PAL ZILERI

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Total look by BERLUTI

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on left:

Total look by LANVIN in middle:

Total look by ETRO on right:

Total look by ISAIA

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on left:

Total look by TALLIA ORANGE in middle:

Total look by ISAIA on right:

Total look by HASPEL

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Total look by JOHN VARVATOS Models: Liam Samuels at Fusion, Max Barczak at Wilhelmina, Max Wechter at DNA, and Sam Worthen at Red Casting by Bert Martirosyan Hair by Matthew Tuozzoli at Atelier using Davines Makeup by Holly Gowers at Atelier using Dr. Alkaitis Organic Skin Food Fashion Assistant: Meaghan Hartland Photo Assistant: Mario Delgado 93

ESSENTIAL HOMME

William Watson, Shameik Moore, and Vincent Oshin photographed in New York.

The designers (left and right) founded Death to Tennis in 2011 with an emphasis on retooling classic menswear.

The duo’s love of cinema and the visual arts has inspired their collections and special projects—including a series of short films—since.

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CONVERSATIONS Menswear as seen from the most important minds in fashion.

SHAMEIK MOORE WILLIAM WATSON VINCENT OSHIN PHOTOGRAPHED BY VINCENT DILIO

THE YOUNG ACTOR TALKS FILM AND FATE WITH THE FASHION DESIGNERS OF DEATH TO TENNIS.

VINCENT OSHIN: My influences are informed by so many films. They are

who are willing to go against the grain and let you know that they have a special vision. The latter doesn’t necessarily work these days—today it’s often about having to water down your art for everyone to get it.

Most people gravitate towards what’s hyped. It takes unique individuals to be like, “I really like that piece.”

WATSON: Many people have a hard time capturing their own ideas because they want to be part of a pack. Social media pushes everybody into very specific genres. If you look at a lot of fashion right now, it’s about the bigger celebrities—they dictate how style goes. We are trying to do the opposite with Death To Tennis, the brand, and the films we make.

OSHIN: The way we shoot our films is not necessarily to showcase the fashion; they are just scenarios and the people who exist in those scenarios happen to be wearing DTT. Natural scenarios. That’s the way.

MOORE: I first came across the brand because my friend was wearing a T-shirt from you guys. And then, later, when my stylist pulled some clothes for another shoot, I saw DTT again. That’s when I started wearing you guys regularly.

OSHIN: You know, I was on Instagram and I saw [Shameik] tag us. I had to look really close at the picture. “Is that DTT?” I thought. Sometimes it’s hard to tell! Your name came up in a meeting after your post—about if we wanted to reach out to you, etc.—but I said, “You know what, I’m not going to do that. I’m going to just let [working together] happen naturally.” And that was just three weeks ago. Look where we are now.

WATSON: The same thing happened with that photographer, remember? We had been dying to meet her forever. A few months ago, backstage at our fashion show, there was a girl taking photos of models. I was like, “Who is this girl, and why is she taking so long?” She turned out to be the very same photographer that we had wanted to meet for so long!

OSHIN: I believe in intuition, my intuition is always spot on. I think if you meet someone more than five times that you don’t necessarily see all the time, then something is supposed to happen. That’s just how I see it.

MOORE: It is brilliant. I do believe in faith, yeah. I believe that whatever I put my mind to is going to happen. I believe that if you want something, you have to believe in it.

OSHIN: Yeah, and work for it. •

all slightly similar in a way—because they all tell a story—but the overall effect is more about what we get and how we get to what we do.

The process in itself informs how [William and I] work together on the fashion side and the ideas we come up with for our creative projects.

Shameik, [do] you have a favorite?

SHAMEIK MOORE: One movie that really changed my life is “The Matrix.”

All of them, actually. I loved how they dressed, the fighting, the style, the energy of it, how serious they were. There was a lot of information within what they said.

OSHIN: My own biggest reference is probably [Alejandro] Jodorowsky’s “The Holy Mountain.” In my hometown there was this illegal video store where I found it. I remember the cover looked interesting—a man all dressed in black, round hat, with a naked little boy—so I picked it up.

I saw that when I was 14. When I was 21 I watched it again and was shocked!

WILLIAM WATSON: As Vincent knows, I watch a lot of anime and manga.

If you come to our studio, I always have some form of it playing on big screens. I reference almost everything to anime—it inspires me, but I’ve also realized at some point you’ve gotta create the art yourself.

There is always the first hurdle and then the second hurdle but— OSHIN: That’s part of life. You’re constantly trying to figure stuff out.

MOORE: In almost every way my greatest challenge is myself. I’m always the one that’s psyching myself out.

OSHIN: It’s good that you know that. It takes time for people to realize, “Oh shit, I’m the problem.”

MOORE: Everyone has natural talents, everyone has different skill levels.

My acting becomes whatever it is that I want it to do. I don’t look up to any artists right now, but there are inspiring things about each person I meet. I might look to Will [Smith] for his style, for example, but even though I am an actor, I never try to act like one, if that makes sense.

Instead, I always try to be natural. I listen to people speak. I see how they behave. If I’m playing a role that reminds me of you, I might spend a week, two weeks with you. Your actions and how you carry yourself— your body is my inspiration.

OSHIN: You take a bit of everything out of the people who inspire you.

For me and William, it’s more about guys like Jodorowsky: visionaries

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Moore, 22, starred in the comedy drama “Dope” (2015), executive produced by Pharrell Williams, and Baz Luhrmann’s Netflix series, “The Get Down” (2016). He is set to voice Miles Morales in the upcoming animated “Spider-Man” film.

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A T SOME POINT YOU’VE GOTTA CR EATE “

THE ART YOURSELF.”

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All clothing available at DeathToTennis.com.

Grooming by Marco Campos at Atelier using Bumble and bumble and Kiehl’s Associate Market Editor: Ellie Rogers Photo Assistant: Nate Mumford 99

Virgil Abloh photographed alongside muse/friends in preparation for his Spring/ Summer 2018 runway show in Florence, Italy.

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BOILING POINT WORDS BY JOSHUA GLASS PHOTOGRAPHED BY FABIEN MONTIQUE STYLED BY STEVIE DANCE

OFF-WHITE’S VIRGIL ABLOH EXHIBITS HIS MOST IMPORTANT SHOW AT PITTI UOMO 92 IN FLORENCE, ITALY.

IN A POSH TRATTORIA BLOCKS from the Duomo, Virgil Abloh is sunken back into his chair discussing art history. It’s a sweltering Florentine summer day and, surrounded by families of tourists and college kids abroad, the American fashion designer is hours away from his most large scale project yet: a runway-slash-art-show in collaboration with Jenny Holzer for his guest appearance at Pitti Uomo.

The two had connected earlier in the year after Abloh, 36, reached out via cold call. To his surprise, not only did Holzer, 67, write him back, but she also knew of his work. Off-White, what began as the designer’s T-shirt concept in 2014, had by then become a full-fledged fashion line catapulted by his dual fascination with everyday cool—skateboarding, hip-hop, and streetwear—and the eschewed fine arts. Abloh, who received his Masters of architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology and undergraduate degree in civil engineering at the University of Wisconsin–Madison years before collaborating with Kanye West, has in fact always championed this idea of democratizing culture.

The German modernist Ludwig Mies van der Rohee, who designed the campus of Abloh’s graduate alma mater, informed the designer’s clean aesthetic, while contemporary forces like Tom Sachs, Vanessa Beecroft, and Takashi Murakami backdate his creative portfolio.

“When you know too much, you can’t unlearn things that you know exist,” Abloh tells me. “The walls that exist around art and fashion can no longer keep the ideas inside them. I’ve tried to use my vehicle—as inspiration and as social responsibility—to say things so that the kid that hasn’t gone to art school can realize it.”

Collaboration in general is no easy undertaking, says the designer, who describes recent efforts with brands such as Ikea and Nike as “making artistic products out of a commercial engine.” In the case of a major artist, it is almost the inverse. “Art is ideas. Art is protection,” he continues. “These ideas have no commerce in them. Instead, it’s conversations and opinions. You have to respect that and package it and allocate ways to represent that.” With Holzer specifically, the idea was to introduce a strong woman’s point of view for his show at the biannual menswear event in Florence.

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W HEN YOU K NOW TOO MUCH, YOU CAN’T UNLEAR N THINGS THAT YOU K NOW EXIST.”

Garrix displays his brand’s signature while performing live in Amsterdam, October 2016.

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Known most for her “Truisms”—earnest, almost-stream of consciousness one-liners that the artist placarded as public art throughout the late 1970s—Holzer is one of the most important neo-conceptualists of our time. Her work with language—and its life thereafter in life-sized projections and scrolling LED—has defied limits of space and authenticity, and her practice with Helmut Lang nearly two decades ago was truly groundbreaking for designer/ artist interactions.

At the historic Palazzo Pitti, an actual Renaissance palace on the south side of the River Arno, the artist staged her collaborative performance with her new partner well into the night, when the lightless sky was finally dark enough canvas for Holzer’s field-length projections. Pure-white text soon appeared, seemingly endless, on the palazzo’s 15th century facade—collected poetry by refugee writers Anna Swirszczynska, Omid Shams, Ghayath Almadhoun, and others—before scrolling up, “Star Wars” style, into the abyss.

Tracked by a spotlight, Abloh’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection, titled Temperature, emerged quickly after—a somewhat utilitarian, somewhat streetwear, somewhat veiled statement on today’s humanitarian crises, particularly that in Syria and Palestine. “I started this collection during a lot of turmoil in terms of news and culture,” the designer, the son of Ghanaian immigrants, says.

“Everything at the time seemed like it was rising.” Reinterpreted tailoring followed suit as Abloh referenced the artist herself with several billowing blazers bearing red screens that quickly flashed words of poetry.

“Without even looking at the clothes, having this genuine cultural project in real scale is important to me,” Abloh says. In fact, the designer refers to much of his work in this way, a type of Trojan Horse—a route to approach, or perhaps in this case, distill under the guise of something else. And the evening, more akin to a concert for contemporary art fanatics than a fashion show, was exactly that.

“This show is the most important thing I’ve made to date,” he says. “It was a dream to work with someone like Jenny Holzer—using words to evoke such strong emotions. I want more of that. I want to find interesting artists. I want to find new projects. I want to keep making things that are relevant and interesting.” •

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Models: Alpha Dia, Bloody Osiris, Emmanuel Adjaye, Ernest Klimko, Ian Connor, Lenny Diaw, Myles Dominique, Olof Kallstrom, Oscar Kindelan, Otto-Valter Vainaste, Sol Suit and shirt by Goss, and William Allen 3.1 PHILLIP LIM Hair by Nicola Ghilardi T-shirt by Makeup

by SCHOOL Michele Magnani PUBLIC Casting by own Elizabeth Stylist’s belt Goldson at AM Casting Photo Assistant: Jean-Romain Pac Grooming by Heather Digital Tech: Benjamin Schnell using Kevyn Roulet Fashion Aucoin Assistant: and OribeSomalia HaircareBarro 105

Paula Gerbase photographed at her studio in London.

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C O L L AT E R A L SPIRIT WORDS BY PATRICK GALIZIO PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN BENOLIEL

PAULA GERBASE CONTINUES JOHN LOBB’S SARTORIAL REIGN.

IT’S A SUNNY AFTERNOON in London and by the pep in her voice, one would not expect Paula Gerbase is toiling away in her office, fresh off her showcase for next season. “It’s normally quite a busy time, but once it starts going then it’ll be alright,” the designer brushes off with a laugh. Hardly new to the bustle, having spearheaded her own label before being appointed John Lobb’s artistic director in 2015, Gerbase aims to make her mark. “I think somehow it’s always been in my blood,” she explains. “You are always evolving; you are always moving forward; you have the opportunity to change.”

A wanderer by circumstance, Gerbase’s creative tendencies first revealed themselves at the age of three. “I drew a yellow felt tip pen squiggle,” she says fondly. “My mother asked me what it was, and I said it was a bag. She was bewildered by it.” Brazilian-born but raised globally (her father’s United Nations position provided a flux of locales), fashion inspiration didn’t truly strike until a weekend trip to Baltimore’s Amish country three years later. “It was a big moment in terms of appreciating how one can define oneself through clothing, almost in a tribal way,” she explains. “That really marked me.”

This early notion carried Gerbase from muddled drawings, to skirts made by her grandma’s side, all the way to her enrollment at Central Saint Martins in London, where the wide-eyed designer soon learned she had to re-think her approach. “I felt like I was being held back by my lack of technical ability,” she says. “I needed free creative output, but knew that only mastering the technique behind it would give me that freedom.” Her next move became clear: Savile Row. Working amongst traditional tailors and strict guidelines brought parameters to Gerbase’s work, ones that she would ultimately break through 1205, her unattributed brand born of the disparity between men’s and women’s clothing. “You need to master those techniques before you attempt to even start slashing at them,” she says. “It’s about using the rules to your benefit to break them— it’s endless.” An early pioneer of today’s androgynous aesthetic, the label was particularly welcomed by the Japanese market, hungry for something new. “It was just impossible,” the designer says of her search to find feminine clothing that matched Savile Row’s caliber of quality. “I made beautiful clothes with interesting fabrics. It was up to the customer to decide if it was for a man or woman.”

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In St. Mawes, off the south coast of Cornwall, England, Gerbase led a five-mile country walk inspired by the story of John Lobb’s founder.

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It was this spirit that made John Lobb—a shoe brand that had not given its creative reigns to anyone since its founder began it nearly a century and a half ago—come knocking. “I was intrigued,” she says. “I was curious to go back to a place where I was working very directly with artisans.” Arriving at the house’s Northampton factory, she rolled up her sleeves, put her head down, and began an archeological dig through John Lobb’s sprawling timeline. “I wanted to get to the bottom of everything.

Who was [Mr. Lobb] really? As a person?”

The son of a farmer whose limp forced him into a cobbler’s profession, the stalwart shoemaker felt compelled toward constant change, choosing, one day, to don a pair of his handmade boots and walk the way to London—a journey that Gerbase herself recreated these past two fashion seasons as a five-mile, real-world applicable runway. “When I found his story I realized [the brand] wasn’t actually about change, it was about

“

“What this company is really about is innovation, a kind of adventurous spirit,” says Gerbase, who took on the role of tour guide. “It seemed impossible to just explain [the history] to people sitting in a showroom. Walking creates a bond. That’s what I was trying to foster: a human element about the collection.”

Soon, it became apparent to Gerbase that both she and Lobb himself bore similarities in their restlessness and searching souls. “My brief when I began was just, ‘We trust you.’ I had a real sense of responsibility,” she recalls. “The first shoe I designed was a plimsoll, based on a tennis shoe I had found in the archives. I had told myself I would never do a sneaker for John Lobb—the customers were the ones who changed my mind.” Her intriguing relationship with clients is a rarity, spending time in-store to observe and gather information at its source. “[John Lobb] customers are quite modern, waiting for newness—more than anyone expected.”

Greeting this desire, Gerbase’s debut arrived with reinforcements. “As an artistic director, you tend to be the face at the front of the trenches,” she explains. “But it’s teamwork; your strength is the strength of the people that work with you.” She established a lab-style development procedure for testing and innovating pieces that works like a think tank within the factory, allowing pioneering pieces to step forth—like the North Hampton-constructed Tensile with all the comfort of a running shoe—as well as the latest reworked retail plans, where environment meets market through Lobb’s Cornish influences. “I just really want people to experience that nature for themselves, rather than showing it to them,” she says. “You find so much in its rawest form, so that context was quite touching.”

Those who caught her leading her June trek through Cornwall would be first to witness the no-holds-barred, brazen pioneer that the once-frustrated fashion student has become: a restless spirit searching for answers. “I can relate to moving forward and establishing yourself in a place,” she says, reminiscing on the century-spanning bond between herself and the founding designer. “I am aware that I am taking on something that is for sure going to outlive me, but it’s never really been about me.” And so she steels herself for what’s next, wherever that may take her, as ready to walk into the unknown as she was with just a yellow felt-tip in hand. •

YYOU OU AR E ALWAYS EVOLVING; AR E ALWAYS MOVING FORWAR D; YOU HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO CHANGE.”

highlighting the origins of the founder’s character,” she says.

Meandering atop the seaside cliffs and roiling sea of the founder’s hometown of Cornwall, the walk was dotted by the latest collection of shoes, pairs placed in precarious metal structures that were unobtrusive to the natural surroundings.

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IMAGE COURTESY OF THE BRAND.

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TOUR DE L’ H I S T O I R E WORDS BY JOSHUA GLASS PHOTOGRAPHED BY KEVIN SINCLAIR STYLED BY TERRY LU

AN INTIMATE LOOK AT THE BACCARAT FACTORY, WHERE SPECIAL EDITION CRYSTAL HAS BEEN CRAFTED FOR THE PAST 250 YEARS.

BACCARAT, the renowned crystal maker, takes its name from its birthplace in Baccarat, France—a village in the Lorraine region located on the banks of the river Meurthe in the northeastern part of the country. It was here that King Louis XV authorized the Bishop of Metz to erect a glasswork factory in 1764. Decades later, King Louis XVIII transformed the factory into what remains today as the finest crystal maker in the world. From royal commissions to privately designed Baccarat crystal, notables such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Prince Rainier, Grace Kelly, and Franklin Delano Roosevelt have found themselves sipping out of the finest crystal.

Crafted by hand by generations of master crystal makers, the savoir faire has remained unrelentingly exceptional.

The brand is timeless, elegant, with a stylish modernity that is more relevant today than ever. Over centuries, the tradition has continued, where second and third generations have passed down their craftmanship in the art of blowing crystal. Each piece, be it the Sun Clock, owned by Marilyn Monroe, to King Louis-Phillipe’s royal commission of the hexagonal glass known as the Harcourt, still echoes in stunning retort. Just past Baccarat’s 250th anniversary, we take an intimate look into the original factory, where each piece of flawless crystal is created by hip, cool, sophisticated master crafters, taking the house’s glorious past into the future. •

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All clothing available at 13Bonaparte.com.

Featuring: Fabien Hensch, Florian Dhier, Jany Zytynsky, Laurent Thouvenin, Ludovic Quattrucci, Morgan Pelerin, RĂŠmi Philippe, and Simon VĂŠriter from Baccarat Grooming by Onoda Associate Market Editor: Ellie Rogers Photo Assistant: Andreas Klassen 121

ESSENTIAL HOMME

AGAIN THE MAN WORDS BY JOSHUA GLASS

Ahead of The Killers’ new album, Brandon Flowers considers his past, present, and future.

Coat by JIL SANDER MEN Sweater by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NIK HARTLEY STYLED BY CHRISTOPHER PRESTON 12 2

AGAIN THE MAN

Total look by GUCCI Artist’s own shoes worn throughout 12 3

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Total look by SAINT LAURENT

BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO Artist’s own necklace worn throughout 12 4

AGAIN THE MAN

NOT TOO LONG AGO, Brandon Flowers found himself in a Manhattan clothing store shopping for a new shirt. As he made way to checkout, a familiar sound played overhead, but he couldn’t quite place it against the noise around him. Handing his credit card to the cashier seconds later, suddenly it struck him: “Low-Life” by New Order. “I started to tear up. I was pricked by nostalgia,” the musician remembers. “I wasn’t expecting it or looking for it, but it was nice. Music can really leave a mark on you like that.”

At 36, Flowers is timelessly handsome. His hair, slicked back and shorter than normal. Like the rest of him in full, it’s more polished. He’s found a new sense of maturity and, with that, a consent for introspection.

Growing up between towns in rural Utah, that particular 1985 album was a favorite of Flowers, who says that he never felt depressed or like an outsider in his youth, just that he didn’t belong. New Order and groups like The Cars gave him the sense of escape he needed without the realization of it. “Music that makes me feel like an individual has always resonated with me,” he explains. “Music that takes you out of somewhere and gives you a part of something that is your very own.” As a teenager, he’d spend his days fanatically obsessing over tapes and analyzing their lyrics with his older filmmaker friend, Trevor. “He had the

They have performed in over 50 countries and on six continents, for former U.S. President Barack Obama at the White House, and alongside the likes of U2, Elton John, and even New Order, for which The Killers homage more than in simply respect. “We took our name from ‘Crystal,’ so performing that song with them was indescribable,” says Flowers.

“Going from having these people’s posters on your walls and T-shirts to actually sharing the stage with them—I can’t put that into words.”

Through it all, the group—with its rumble of British pop with lo-fi indie progressions—has largely defined American alt-rock. “We’re really kind of the last band of our time,” the musician says, who remembers listening to early demos in his 1992 Geo Metro. “Now everything has changed.”

Their newest album, “Wonderful Wonderful,” out this September, is perhaps Flowers’ most honest to date with the band. Reflecting on the candor of his two solo albums (released between The Killers’ discography), the musician allowed his bandmates to see a new side of himself.

“I felt a freedom when I was making “Flamingo” (2010) and “The Desired Effect” (2015) that I hadn’t had before,” he recalls. “I could be more open about myself because I didn’t have to represent the others. For this record I realized it was okay to not be so protective about what was going on in my personal life. It wasn’t easy, but it worked out.” The third song on “Wonderful Wonderful,” for instance, “Rut,” is a battle cry of an

“ I R EALIZED IT WAS OK AY TO NOT BE SO PROTECTIVE ABOUT WHAT WAS GOING ON IN MY PERSONAL LIFE. IT WASN’T EASY, BUT IT WOR K ED OUT.” audacity to want to make short films and music videos,” says Flowers.

“That kind of thinking had literally never crossed my mind at the time—it had profound impact.” The evolution from musical interest to involvement thereafter came as a surprise to everyone else, too, Flowers recalls.

His great grandmother—a country music songwriter eight decades his senior—was his only other family member with musical talent.

In late 2001, Flowers, then living in Las Vegas, responded to a newspaper classified from guitarist Dave Keuning seeking like-minded artists to start an original band. The year following, bassist Mark Stoermer and drummer Ronnie Vannucci Jr. joined the duo to form The Killers—with Flowers as the lead singer and keyboardist—and by August 2003 “Mr. Brightside” (still the most popular track of the band’s catalogue to date) premiered on BBC Radio 1. It was named “Song of the Decade” by multiple stations and, seven years later, the music streaming website Last.fm announced it to be the most listened-to song since its launch. The Killers’ debut album itself, “Hot Fuss,” released after “Mr. Brightside,” earning five Grammy Award nominations and selling over seven million copies (and counting), which garnered multi-platinum status across the globe. Soon, the foursome—whose first few songs were sung onto Keuning’s answering machine by Flowers through pay phone calls— were thrusted from the local Vegas strip to the world stage.

Over the next decade The Killers put out three more studio albums, “Sam’s Town” (2006), “Day & Age” (2008), and “Battle Born” (2012) as well as a live DVD, a greatest hits record, and a Christmas compilation.

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anthem delivered from the perspective of Flowers’ wife, Tana Mundkowsky, who suffers post traumatic stress from childhood abuse. Meanwhile, the dreamy “Some Kind of Love” recalls the peaceful ease of love over time through tender lyrics. Even “Run For Cover,” which the band has been writing and rewriting for the last nine years, harkens to The Killers of the early aughts with the urgent anxiety of today. “It’s tough to have those moments of vulnerability with four guys in a band,” he says. “You have to explain to them what you’re singing about and what’s going on at home. That’s a new experience for me, and a very uncomfortable one at that. I’m still getting used to it now—how to explain it—but it ended up being a very powerful one. It helped me understand myself more as well as the rest of the band.”

Recorded between Las Vegas—where, in the historic part of the city, Flowers lives on a 1960s former horse property—and Topanga Canyon in California, the fifth studio album is a milestone not without its questions of legacy. “I think about what my contributions to society are going to be; what kind of dent I’m going to make,” he admits. “It’s not my state of mind when I write a song necessarily, or when I wake up every morning, but it’s definitely there.” Perhaps the sentiment is best reflected in “The Man,” the lead single for “Wonderful Wonderful,” whose funky, disco-rock melody is accompanied by lyrics that question confidence, accomplishments, and perspective in youth. “I can’t help but think of all the great singers and songwriters that left a mark on me and wonder how I compare,” says Flowers. “There is still so much to be done.” •

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Blazer and shirt by DIOR HOMME Artist’s own tank top worn throughout

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AGAIN THE MAN

on left: Total look by SAINT LAURENT

BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO on right: Jacket by JOHN VARVATOS

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

on left: Total look by GUCCI on right: Total look by DIOR HOMME

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AGAIN THE MAN

Jacket by 3.1 PHILLIP LIM 12 9

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Jacket by SANDRO

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AGAIN THE MAN

Total look by ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Grooming by Ben Jones using Windle & Moodie and M.A.C. Cosmetics Photo Assistant: Ho Hai Tran Retouching by Lucie Silveira

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

DOUBLE TAP WORDS BY JONATHAN SHIA

After viral success, social wonderboy Cameron Dallas finds new fame offline.

Coat by JIL SANDER MEN Sweater by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

PHOTOGRAPHED BY AUSTIN HARGRAVE STYLED BY JASON REMBERT 13 2

DOUBLE TAP

Total look by PRADA 13 3

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Total look by VERSACE 134

DOUBLE TAP

IN PERHAPS his most popular YouTube entry yet, Cameron Dallas does little more than sit for stitches. The social media superstar had cut his foot after stepping on a tin lid while filming with fellow vlogger Nash Grier. “Real talk, call 911 or something!” Dallas exclaims on screen. Narratively anticlimactic, the scene continues as the pair tries to lessen the gush. After heading to the hospital in an ambulance, Dallas grips his friend in pain while the wound is sewn up. That the video has been viewed nearly 18 million times (and counting) is reflective of what young fans have come to expect today—intimacy, humor, and a healthy dose of embarrassment.

Now 23, Dallas labels the video a “freakout,” confessing to a somewhat overblown reaction. But exaggeration is the natural language of social media, where melodrama only increases the chances of getting memed. The art of being a celebrity in 2017 requires openness and constant availability, whether you are Beyoncé announcing your pregnancy with an elaborately arranged photoshoot or a teenager from Southern California asking the doctor if you’ll have to “wear crutches.”

Since the hospital visit back in February 2014, Dallas has come a long way. With 5.6 million subscribers on YouTube and over 20 million on Instagram (now the most important platform), he has parlayed social media stardom into a web that now encompasses music, movies, his own Netflix series, and a new role as the face of Dolce & Gabbana. His is a fame that could not have existed even five years ago—before social media became a global pastime and a fount for new talent of all kinds. While there is no denying that Dallas’ boy-next-door good looks have leveraged his success, his status as one of the most prominent YouTube crossover stars proves there’s something more to the young adult. “I’m constantly surprised by what you can achieve through hard work and perseverance,” he says.

“It’s crazy, the opportunities are endless.”

Dallas first started this social media journey in 2012, posting carefully curated photos of himself and funny videos that involved pranks and gags on Instagram and Vine. He says he never imagined back then that it would become a career, but rather that he was drawn to it for the same reasons any other teenager would be. “I just did it because I wanted to,” he laughs. “I did it to have fun.”

It wasn’t long before Dallas began collecting his first fans, moments he recalls as “really special.” Without the layers of management and PR that celebrities from film, music, and sports are protected by, young social media stars are prized for their intimate connections with these rabid followers. Speaking directly to their fans—more often than not teenage girls—these new superstars are rewarded with passion and loyalty, something Dallas mentions he is careful to honor: “I love connecting with people directly,” he says.

With these built-in audiences, fashion crossover, it seems, was only inevitable. After tweeting “I want to be a Calvin Klein model,” in 2011, it became a literal dream come true when Dallas fronted the brand’s denim ad in early 2016, appearing also in the label’s #mycalvins campaign later that year. This past January, he reached a new level of prominence: In a shimmering printed suit, Dallas appeared in Dolce & Gabbana’s Autumn/Winter 2017 runway show,

leading a lineup that also included other social media phenoms such as Luka Sabbat and Will Peltz, as well as a slew of notable celebrity spawn like Presley Gerber (son of Cindy Crawford), Rafferty Law (son of Jude), and Levi Dylan (grandson of Bob). The collection, which featured the brand’s trademark sharp tailoring and ornate detailing, was meant to serve as a bridge between the designers and a younger generation. “Domenico [Dolce] and Stefano [Gabbana] are amazing and really made me feel comfortable throughout the whole process,” he recalls. As the opener, Dallas was tasked to be the first on the runway as soon as the spotlights went on, but he tried to avoid nerves by focusing on the fun of the experience: “The one thing I was thinking about was not falling. I was just realistic and thought, ‘I’m not going to mess this up.’ But it would’ve been really funny if I had.”

Since then, Dallas has been named a brand ambassador for the house, starring in both its spring and fall ads this year. “I don’t work with a lot of luxury brands like this, but every time I put on Dolce & Gabbana’s clothes, it feels like they were specially made for me,” he says. “I love the craftsmanship and I love the time and energy [the designers] spend to craft these pieces. It’s another form of art and I’m really humbled by the amount of work they put into it. The fact that they even let me appear in their campaigns is amazing.”

For someone used to being dressed by his mother (“She did an amazing job,” he jokes. “Shoutout to my mom.”), this deep and sudden immersion into the fashion world is both exciting and educational. “I still don’t know a lot of things and I have to look to people to teach me,” Dallas says. “Fashion has been a tool for me to grow as a person. You can really express yourself in different ways and show how creative you can be.” It’s all gone so well, in fact, that he’s planning his own line of clothing some time in the near future. “Yes, 100 percent,” he promises.

In the meantime, there’s the second season of his Netflix reality show, “Chasing Cameron,” to work on. Following Dallas, his family, and his friends from the Magcon circuit, the series of meet-andgreet events that let fans interact with their favorite social media personalities in real life debuted last December. And, while some reviews found it both gratuitous and strangely guarded, it was another step forward in the growth of the brand of Cameron Dallas.

“I wrote the idea in my notebook a year-and-a-half ago and just put my eye on the prize and went for it,” he explains. “In terms of the honesty and authenticity, the show is exactly what I wanted. That’s what I like to do—that’s what we aim for.”

Even as his name finds new titles, Dallas hasn’t left behind the YouTube channel that brought him original prominence. In his most recent video the production values are unquestionably higher, but the same spirit of joy remains as he pranks a friend by filling his apartment with an inflatable bouncy castle. Dallas—like any young adult—still wants to have fun, but he is aware that he has a powerful voice he can use for good. “I think every day is an opportunity, so I’m constantly working on myself as a person and trying to help people around me,” he offers. “It’s important as a human to be nice and want more for others than from others.” •

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

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DOUBLE TAP

Total look by DRIES VAN NOTEN 137

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Total look by BOTTEGA VENETA 13 8

DOUBLE TAP

Total look by DOLCE&GABBANA

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

Total look by VERSACE 14 0

DOUBLE TAP

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

Total look by

BOTTEGA VENETA

Total look by VALENTINO 14 2

DOUBLE TAP

Total look by VALENTINO

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Total look by GIVENCHY

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Total look by DOLCE&GABBANA Grooming by Sydney Sollod at The Wall Group using Oribe Fashion Assistants: Daniel Jones and Ethan Cole Photo Assistants: Thomas Patton and Keith Coleman Production Assistant: Frank Carino

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DOUBLE TAP

Total look by HERMÈS

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

W H E N DARKNESS F A L L S

Somber but not dramatic, this season’s most compelling designers take nuance seriously.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY KEVIN SINCLAIR STYLED BY ALEX VAN DER STEEN

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WHEN DARKNESS FALLS

Total look by GUCCI 14 9

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Total look by GUCCI

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WHEN DARKNESS FALLS

Jacket and pants by BERLUTI Shirt by DIOR HOMME 151

ESSENTIAL HOMME

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WHEN DARKNESS FALLS

Total look by RAF SIMONS 15 3

ESSENTIAL HOMME

Suit by GUCCI Hoodie by LOUIS VUITTON 154

WHEN DARKNESS FALLS

Jacket by BERLUTI Sweater by LANVIN

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

Jacket and pants by PRADA Shirt by LOUIS VUITTON

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WHEN DARKNESS FALLS

Polo shirt by LOUIS VUITTON Turtleneck by ACNE STUDIOS

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Jacket by LANVIN Sweater by ACNE STUDIOS

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WHEN DARKNESS FALLS

Sweater by ACNE STUDIOS Pants by DIOR HOMME Model: Will Wadhams at Wilhelmina Grooming by Alicia Marie Campbell at See Management using Saturdays NYC and Nars

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ESSENTIAL HOMME

GROOMING

T H E D O-OV E R WORDS BY KATIE DICKENS

FEELING OVEREXPOSED AFTER MONTHS OF SOAKING UP THE SUN, SAND, AND SURF? CONSIDER THIS REPARATIVE ROUTINE A BIG-BOOST FOR FALL.

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MODEL: JOHN TODD AT SOUL ARTIST. PHOTOGRAPHED BY A.P. KIM. GROOMING BY MARCO CAMPOS AT ATELIER USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AND MALIN+GOETZ. GROOMING ASSISTANT: FADY MALKI. PHOTO ASSISTANT: SARAH EMERSON.

Looking one’s best doesn’t just stop at your clothes.

GROOMING

ALLIES OF SKIN FRESH SL ATE PURIFYING

CL ARK’S BOTANICALS

CONTEXT

CLEANSER + MASQUE

RETINOL RESCUE OVERNIGHT CREAM

LIP REPAIR SPF 30

Clean

About

Lip

SWEEP

FACE

Any time spent sunning sans-SPF (or in anything below 30) will eventually be seen all over the face in the form of lines, spots, and uneven texture. Seek repentance for bad behavior with this time-release retinol treatment, which does reparative work—visibly smoothing, brightening, and hydrating—during slumber.

The mouth is particularly sensitive to the effects of UV rays and salt (from the sea or possibly too many margaritas), so summer’s end requires some extra attention. To restore it to a healthier state, religiously slather on this balm packed with a quartet of nourishing natural oils, protective antioxidants, and healing aloe vera—plus SPF to prevent further damage.

$98, ClarksBotanicals.com.

$10, ContextSkincare.com.

PALERMO COFFEE BODY SCRUB

Slough STUFF

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE BRANDS.

SERVICE

The three S’s of summer—sweat, sebum, and SPF—turn the face into a kind of filth magnet, causing dirt and toxins to stick to and then get sucked in pores. For a thorough purge, wash with this clarifying cleanser comprised of naturally purifying clay and oil-minimizing manuka honey, which also doubles as a mask to address more dire situations.

While excessive exposure to sand, saltwater, and chlorine tends to leave skin thirsty, it’s nothing that can’t be smoothed over by a good scrub. Soften up without aggravating already parched skin with this hydrating sea salt and pumice stone exfoliant. Bonus: In case of overindulgence, the caffeine in the coffee grounds firms and tightens.

$59, AlliesOfSkin.com.

$44, PalermoBody.com.

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NEW NOTES WORDS BY KATIE DICKENS PHOTOGRAPHED BY NAO FUJISHIRO

NOT READY TO COMMIT TO A NEW FALL FRAGRANCE? REDOLENT SALVES, SOAPS, AND CREAMS ARE A FAR MORE SUBTLE WAY TO WEAR SCENT AS SUMMER BECOMES AUTUMN.

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1. DIPTYQUE

2. GUCCI

F ragrance G estures

G uilty A bsolute B eard O il

In days of yore, fragrant notes were instilled into all manner of oils, salves, and tonics, and then applied liberally from head-to-toe. Cult fragrancer Diptyque is revisiting this olfactive heritage with a collection of luxurious hair and body offerings—such as shower oil and body balm—infused with its popular L’Ombre dans l’Eau, Do Son, Philosykos, and Eau Rose.

Ah, just like old times.

Gucci’s Alessandro Michele and his muse-slash-twin Jared Leto share a fondness for bountiful facial hair. So it’s not terribly surprising that the first scent co-created by the designer and embodied by the actor has now come in the form of a fragrant beard oil. Infused with a blend of sweet almond, grapeseed, and jojoba oils, the rich formula conditions hair while imparting the namesake scent.

Perfect for hirsute fans of Italian luxury.

Philosykos Hand and Body Gel, $42, L’Ombre Dans L’Eau Soap, $28, and Philosykos Hand and Body Lotion, $55, Diptyque.com.

$42, Sephora.com.

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4. JO M ALONE 3. FREDERIC M ALLE

V etiver E xtraordinaire S having C ream and A fter S have B alm

L ime B asil & M andarin and P omegranate N oir E xfoliating S hower G el

Here’s proof that shaving provisions don’t have to smell like cheap cologne. Perfume legend Frederic Malle introduces a shaving cream and after shave balm permeated with perfumer Dominique Ropion’s refreshing version of classic vetiver, making the shearing ritual decidedly more indulgent.

Prefer fragrance on the lighter side? While smoothing skin and washing away impurities, these body washes will also impart the invigorating cocktail of citrus fruit and basil or an intoxicating blend of rich fruits and warm woods on the body. Feel free to skip the spritz.

Shaving Cream, $80, After Shave Balm, $120, FredericMalle.com.

$40 each, JoMalone.com.

ESSENTIAL HOMME

SHARP SPACES

H E A R T O F PA R I S WORDS BY STEPHANIE SMITH-STRICKLAND

Few metropolises have been romanticized quite as fervently as Paris, a locale so enticing that Charles Dickens deemed it the most extraordinary place on earth. The newly revamped Hôtel de Crillon—Grande Madame even among the city’s pedigreed roster of luxury lodgings—deftly embodies the heady blend of history and modernity that has historically enamored makers of all ilk.

Built in 1758 under the direction of pioneering architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel by commission of Louis XV, the hotel is steeped in untold sagas. Few other properties boast a guest book as eclectic as the dignified building on Place de la Concorde, where Marie Antoinette played piano long before Jackie Onassis stepped foot into the grand reception. Still, even the most vibrant histories can become stifling over time. Perhaps that’s why the historic site has

closed for an extensive remodel during the last four years. Until now, that is.

Led by art director Aline Asmar d’Amman, three Paris-based designers skirted the knife’s edge of preservation and innovation. The team, comprised of Chahan Minassian, Tristan Auer, and Cyril Vergniol, complemented architect Richard Martinet’s update with an elegant, contemporary design scheme underpinned by subtle 18th century cues. Martinet’s task was particularly delicate as the renovations included two rooms that are classified as heritage landmarks. Karl Lagerfeld also decorated two of the 10 signature suites, infusing the sprawling spaces with his singular interpretation of Parisian taste. Deemed “Les Grands Appartements,” the fashion designer’s undertaking offers a stunning bathroom with parquet marble flooring; a monolithic, striated marble bathtub; 16 4

and 17th-century marble fountains now fashioned into sinks. The most diminutive of the rooms sees Lagerfeld’s sense of humor emerge with touches such as a rug designed to mimic the scratch marks of a cat—an homage to the designer’s adored feline companion, Choupette, whose portrait also hangs on the wall.

Yet even with the added streak of playfulness, Lagerfeld’s work complements that of Asmar d’Amman’s team, who handled the hotel’s remaining 124 guestrooms, five dining spaces, upscale salon, and newly-minted swimming pool. Keeping with the modernity-meetshistory vision, the team relied on antique pieces, bespoke items, and of-a-kind objects to convey a sense of comfortable luxury. Decades of literature and film have indelibly marked Paris as a cosmopolitan city with a wholly unique allure. However as the city has changed, so too has one of its most lavish landmarks. •

IMAGES COURTESY OF HÔTEL DE CRILLON.

AFTER AN EXPANSIVE FOUR-YEAR RENOVATION, THE ICONIC HÔTEL DE CRILLON RETURNS MORE DECADENT THAN EVER.

WWW.BACCARAT.COM NEW YORK • GREENWICH • PALM DESERT • SOUTH COAST PLAZA • LAS VEGAS • HOUSTON • 800.777.0100