EDITORS
Nila The Magazine of Manila
THE TEAM
Diana F. David EDI T OR-IN- CHIEF
Chrisenbel W. Alejo Dianne L. Aguas A SSOCI AT E EDI T OR S
Erica H. Panganiban Robyn R. Saquin ART&DESIGN EDITORS
Trina P. Ticsay
DEBUT SPECIAL
MANAGING EDITOR
Gabbie R. Lombos
ISSUE NO. 1
MUSIC
Calvin C. Lu BUSINESS
Chester B. Tan C U LT U R E
D. David P U BL IC AT ION DESIGN
Diana Flores PHOTOS
Bernadette Dyan David ART & DESIGN
CONTRIBUTORS
Quita V. Chuatico M U LT I M E D I A
Calvin L. Chan L E G A L A F FA I R S
Annie Batungbakal EDI T OR I A L A SSIS TA N T
SPECIAL THANKS TO
City of Manila, Intramuros, Yaris, Meneer Marcelo, Ateneo de Manila University Press, Intermatrix Printing Solutions, the Internet for free fonts, brushes, and stock images, Diligence Cafe, Coffee Bean
L I A M C A LV I N C. LU C H E S T E R B. TA N
Litratistang nagbabakasakaling magmahal.
Liam is currently an economics major who dreams of becoming an attorney. He is passionate about policy and dreams of working to see incomes of ordinary Filipinos rise in the future.
CONTENTS
EDITOR’S NOTE
4
FOR THE LOVE OF MANILA
8
REVISITING MANILA’S ROOTS
14
SABADO, 1995
16
MANILA AND THE MACHINE
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THE COVER
Illustration by Diana F. David Manila’s name is based on the nila, a flowering mangrove plant that grew on the marshy shores of the bay, used to produce soap for regional trade. It is either from the phrase may nila, Tagalog for “there is nila,” or it has a prefix ma- indicating the place where something is prevalent.
4 CULTURE
FOR THE LOVE OF
MANILA M
anila is the epitome of chaos, as some people would say. The streets are wet with scum water due to improper (and probably clogged) sewers, the sidewalks are filled with informal settlers and their makeshift houses, and the traffic is just horrendous. These are small things that makes us think, “why are we living in a place like this?� The place is bad, the smell is awful, the people look untrustworthy and dangerous, yet why do we stay?
Words and photos by Chester B. Tan
CULTURE 5
I live in Tondo, probably the most notorious place in Metro Manila, known for hosting and producing drug-dealers, rapists, kidnappers, and crime syndicates. The people living here are mostly of lower class and middle class such as myself, and we live in constant danger of natural calamities such as floods because of our proximity to the ocean and in constant fear of being robbed if we walk alone at night. It is true that Manila can be somewhat (read: really) dangerous at times, but there are qualities in Manila that I would not offer up for the relative safety of subdivisions and their walls and car pass stickers and IDs. There are things and places that make me come back to Manila. I’m relatively near the place of Chinese people aka Binondo which is also knows as the home of the original mami, pares, and milk tea in the Philippines (Wai Ying had it years before Serenitea) Walking the streets (literally because the sidewalks are filled with products from stores) you’ll probably get a mouthful of smoke from the tricycles zooming past you with truckloads of paninda on board, but you’ll also get a whiff of the diced hopias, small cakes that are reminiscent of the takoyakis of Japan albeit in the shape of, well, a dice.
6 CULTURE
“
I GREW UP BEING FOND OF THE ABSURDITIES OF LIFE, APPRECIATING THE MUNDANE THINGS THAT GIVE PERSONALITY TO MY CITY: THE SOUND OF WATER HITTING OUR CAR AS WE DRIVE UNDER THE DRIPPING LRT LINE ALONG TAFT, THE TASTE OF BUKO JUICE SOLD ON THE STREEt, THE SIGHt OF THE SUNSET FULL OF WARMTH AT MANILA BAY.
CULTURE 7
All over, you’ll hear the sounds of people speaking in a language that can only remind you of the songs from Meteor Garden(if you watched it) or probably that time when the parents of Jaden Smith’s love interest was being reprimanded by her parents. It might feel esoteric at times, even saddening for some, that a place that is supposed to be the center of Filipino culture is marred by these foreign influences. But I think it complements or encapsulates more of what makes us who we are: people trying to find a place and make it our own. The Philippines is a hotpot of cultures and people, we are different and we are united in our difference. You can see them in our cuisine, in our pamahiins or feng shui, and even in our language. We enjoy diversity, we enjoy difference, we enjoy chaos. Of course, chaos isn’t always great or bad, but it creates an environment that enables us to appreciate the little things that create our identity, be it our cities, or own identites, or our image of what our country represents. In chaos, we find familiarity and consistencies that define us. I grew up with the smell of salt and smoke in my lungs. It’s probably the reason why I have asthma, but that’s not the point. I grew up being fond of the absurdities of life, appreciating the mundane things that give personality to my city: the sound of water hitting our car as we drive under the dripping LRT line along Taft Avenue, the taste of Buko juice sold by vendors on the street, the sight of the sunset full of warmth and compassion along Manila Bay. In this chaos, I found home, a familiar place to come back to. The Manila I know might not be the Manila that most people know, but it’s definitely one that I’ll come back to at any time.
M
Revisiting Manila’s roots Words from “A Visit to Manila and its Environs”, J.A.B. Wiselius Graphics by D. F. David
W
iselius’s elaborate musing about taxation, corvée, land issues, and governance in the Philippines by putting them in the context of his own exprience on Jave during the period 1865-1875. THE TRIP TO MANILA The months of May and June were not the best time to visit the Philippines—they are the hottest months of the year, although wiselius seldom mentions the weather. His impression of the city and its surroundings were surely negatively influenced by the yellowed, dry plants, a contrast to ever-green Java. How much time he spent in the country remains obscure, but one can assume this to have not been more than a month. Wiselius was also rather vague about the sources of his insights into Philippine society and culture, as well as the colonial state and church. British Consul Bowring’s report, Jagor’s Reisen, as well as Mallat’s earlier romance with the islands were certainly on his reading table. For ethnological insightshe refers to Semper, Meyer, and Jagor. Dutch consul Van Polanen Petel and his business partner and the next Dutch consul, the Belgian Jean Philippe Hens, were surely among his informants, but whether he was able to meet the Spanish governor or other higher officials is not clear. As a young, low-ranking colonial officer he probably lacked the credentials to be admitted to the highest level of Spanish colonial society. He notes the lack of recommendation letters when he travels in the interior of Southern Luzon. During his trip to Laguna he observes several Dominican friars, but does not report on any exchange of views with them. A few local Filipino officials during that brief trip and he was able to visit some factories in the urban area later on.
HISTORY 9
ON HIS ENTRY TO THE CITY OF MANILA Laperouse has called Manila the the best situated city in the world and the bay on which it is located has a circumference of about 120 nautical miles. However, when I arrived there were no more than twelve ships anchored, although the bay could easily accomodate all the merchant fleets of the world. Five provinces border on the bay and there are regular ferries by steamship to Manila. As the waters are shallow near the coast, the bigger ships have to anchor at some distance and loading and unloading takes a lot of time. No one has attempted to build a pier, although it has always been planned. Unless someone points it out, finding Manila would be hard even when one is quite near. This is a big contrast with Hong Kong which I just left. Hong Kong has been built against the slope of a rather steep mountain, and seen from the sea, it looks spectacular. When Manila was built they ignored all the advantages that a hilly location offered, comined with natural beauty and a pleasing environment, and the city was built instead on a flat, sandy lane. Only a few church towers suggest to the foreigner the location of Manila. It is hard to understand why this particular location was chosen for the city as it is the least attractive for miles around. We arrived at around seven in the evening but could not disembark as the customs authorities had to inspect the baggae of the passengers. April, May, and June are the hottest time of the year and one can understand that it wasn’t particularly pleasant to spend the time floating in Manila Bay. The following day was a Sunday and despite the problems of a customs inspection on such a day, I was, after a brief inspection, given access to the city.
12 HISTORY
HISTORY 9
“
One first observes life in the street, especially in an Oriental country; a quick opinion follows, and only a later comes a more mature judgment. J.A.B WISELIUS, 1875
12 HISTORY
Spanish officials are generally very courteous and helpful, but the many formalities that a foreigner has to deal with and the many rules that officials have to follow do not encourage making closer acquiantance with the country and the people. This is not something that the Spanish government likes to promote. I had expected to see a lot of hustle and bustle in the early morning in Manila bay, as is the case elsewhere, but everything was quiet and calm, and it required much effort and an exorbitant amount to get a small boat to take me the short distance from our anchorage to the Pasig River.
“
In truth, Manila may have been called “la muy noble ciudad” or Pearl of the Orient, but these noble qualities are covered by dust and mud.
There is only one inn in Binondo, called “fonda francesca,” where at 10.30 am and 4.30 pm a mesa redonda is held, separately for Spaniards and for foreigners. The owner of the hotel is Lala Ari from Bombay, who has made a fortune with it, altough the cost of accomodation and meals at f2.50 a day cannot be considered high. I immediately visited our consul, Mr. Van Polanen Petel, and we were soon engaged in a lively debate about the Spanish colonial question. The first days in a new country are always very interesting, and Manila and her surroundings were no exception. Every object that one sees for the first time attracts attention, every incident is closely observed, words and sentences are reflected on, and every person is of interest. One first observes life in the street, especially in an Oriental country; a quick opinion follows, and only a later comes a more mature judgment. When one reads Spanish writers on Manila, who refer to it as the Pearl of the Orient, and when travelers, especially Spanish travelers, describe her as “delightful,” one expects to see something really beautiful. But the traveler is soon disappointed. Only a Spanish mind could describe as an El Dorado a city with a dirty, stinking, and in many places, a shallow river; a crowded place with poorly paved streets full of holes, no trees; and gloomy, decrepit houses. The houses are all row houses and look like convents, insde as well as from the outside. One cannot find gardens anywhere—they say trees cause fever—and flowers are not appreciated. To get some fresh air without having to go out on the street, houses have a balcony or a terrace, but no effort has been made to make them look pretty. Moreover, the ruins of the 1863 earthquake have not yet been cleared away and one can imagine that any comparison with cities in other colonies and with European quarters in China, where tree-lined roads and neat villas with flower gardens are the standard, puts Manila at disadvantage. To be fair it should be added that Manila and the Philippines have seen no change for two or three centuries. There has been no noticeable progress in architecture and statecraft. A private sector that is so often the driver of city improvements and progress hardly exist. Other colonies are either younger or have progressed to such an exten that dynamism and prosperity have combined to present an agreeable picture ot the foreign visitor. But this comparison does nothing to remove the unpleasant
apperance especially of Binondo, the principal city quareter. In old Manila, on the left bank of the Pasig River, one finds military quarters, convents, churches, government buildings, and some shops, encircled by water and walls, a classic example of the highly impractical way in which two or three centuries ago one would build cities in the Orient. The Binondo quarter on the opposite side, where foreignersand Chines live, and which is the center of trade and retails, offers a livelier, albeit not particularly pleasant image. It is not unusual to find caracasses in the canals, the houses are all somber and look like convents, there is no good ventilation, there are no bathrooms, and in place of glass windows, the narrow, tall windows are covered by a wooden frame with shells (capiz) with jalousies in front of them. It is true that experience has shown the need for an alternative to glass in case of earthquakes, but this does not remove the unpleasant impression when one enters a poorly lit and poorly ventilated house. Indeed, storms and earthquakes are real plagues in the Philippines; one only has to see an instance of these oft-occurring disasters and the human fatalities they cause to realize the turth of this statement. No one pays much attention to earthquakes, when the lamps start swinging, and only when there are serious tremors does one call out to each other: “Temblor! Temblor!” As was expected, there are many beautiful spots near Manila. However, the public refers to ride on dusty, bumpy raods where there is a chance to meet friends or to be seen. One cannot find trees, shade, and villas along theses roads and only the Calzada de Sabana, which runs along the side of the walls, and the Paseo de Magallaners are, albeit minor exceptions to this rule. In truth, Manila may have been called “la muy noble ciudad” or Pearl of the Orient, but these noble qualities are covered by dust and mud. This judgment may sound harsher than what one finds in French, German, or Spanish descriptions, but one can be more objective and better able to perceive the darker sides if one travels around an asian country, not “en prince” or with letters of recommendation to local officials, and when one is not forced to offer international politeness in return. In short, Manila consists of a labyrinth of narrow streets, bordered by small shops and unattractive houses, while the dust and mud on the barely maintained roads are only interrupted by unsightly canals.
HISTORY 13
J.A.B WISELIUS, 1875
14 PROFILE
Nostalgia in the context of Eraserheads Words from Vandals on the Wall Photo from SentiSabado
PROFILE 15
I
f you look at it from a consumerist lens, nostalgia seems to just rove around the concept of romanticizing the past and creating a demand for specific things relevant to your personal experiences and memories. But there’s more to nostalgia than a fatal attraction on the bygone. It’s an intimate and intense feeling shared by people who associate sentimental artefact with childhood, teenage heartbreaks, high school days, gleeful summer trips and painful breakups—experiences that kept you wondering, “What the hell happened?” or “Can I just travel back in time and relive those moments again?” The Eraserheads often comes to mind when we talk about nostalgia’s infinite connection with pop culture. Their music—an accessible bagpipe of communal yet intimate pop-rock anthems—operates within the idiom of Pinoy sensibilities. Pop is often defined by its success in the commercial marketplace, but Eheads redefine its meaning with such vividly busting fire of excitement and rebellion, bypassing mere gratification for something more carefree, youthful and punk, yet its scope is grounded in universal sentiments that all walks of life can relate to, regardless of social class, generational differences and gender. They wrote songs that felt like ours too, stories that often remind us of the days spent drunk with friends, heartbreaks that echo a lifetime, silly dorm-room jokes cracked open in the hallways, reckless vices, countless embarrassments, and experiences that your friends and your friends’ friends have encountered, one way or another. No band has transcended the concept of a time machine other than The Eraserheads themselves.
Perhaps this is why no matter how drastic the change is in terms of how we consume music in the digital and mobile era, fact remains that we consider The Eraserheads as an extension of our family, one whose appeal is an everlasting representation of one’s self. Global music streaming platform, Spotify even put The Eraserheads on top of the most streamed OPM acts list in the Philippines, beating constant pop fixtures on radio and TV such as Sarah Geronimo, Gary Valenciano and Toni Gonzaga. And just last week, the social media went berserk after Esquire Philippines announced that The Eraserheads will be gracing the cover of their September issue with a CD containing 2 newly recorded songs “Sabado” and”1995”, both of which debuted early this morning not in Soundcloud, Bandcamp or Esquire’s official website, but in a local radio station catering to the alternative and indie rock format (read: Jam 88.3). Those of us who write about music have an unhealthy habit of comparing an artist’s latest work with their previous ones, citing how much an artist have changed, regressed or stayed truthful to their roots. But with The Eraserheads, track record was never an issue. We’re just happy that after more than a decade, they’re making relatable music again that would soon instill memories in our collective consciousness, and might herald another page in the history of local music given the right timing. “1995” in fact, is a massive fuzz-pop sing-along about longing, a way to remember something from the past and wish that things could have been the same again. 1995 was also the year The Eraserheads released their ca-
reer-defining blockbuster Cutterpillow, an album which music critic David Gonzales described as “mature and cohesive, brimming with enjoyable, substantive songs” as opposed to Ultraelectromagneticpop! and Circus’ unashamedly youthful but enjoyable recklessness. This juxtaposition may seem trivial or out of bounds, but both cases share the same rhetoric: past is a bitch that is just too indelible and important to forget. It’s this sentimentality that endeared us to The Eraserheads in the first place, its effect—immediate and just as compelling on a personal level just like their past hits. Musically, it’s a different beast, an entirely different character that’s aeons away from the defiant superstars of the ‘90s that we know. It sounds more like a successor to Carbon Stereoxide’s sharp-fanged noise-rock leanings and Natin99’s lyrical ambition, with hints of Ely Buendia’s postEheads bands (Monggols, Pupil, The Oktaves) running in its veins. “Saan na napunta? kislap ng iyong mata ay babalik pa ba,” Buendia opens the song, misguided and worried about what the future may bring to the fold. Bittersweet sentiments are one of The Eraserheads’ biggest strengths, and when pulled off with powerfully utilitarian aggression and sticky-happy melodies, everything just leaps out at you from the pockets of silence. “1995” celebrates this side of The Eraserheads where they’re comfortable at where their sound is heading at, capturing the nuance, energy, and vitality of rock n’ roll music in a well-produced recording. If nostalgia ever has a sound, then this might be a tease.
Manila and the Machine VISIONS OF GROWTH IN T H E C O U N T R Y ’ S C A P I TA L
BUSINESS 17
MANILA The seat of political, economic, and social authority, it is a city of diverse, and oftentimes, conflicting narratives. To some, it is the scene of an economy growing at breakneck speeds. It is a land of suburbia, of children whose parents work decent jobs and now work decent jobs themselves. These people have seen their standards of living improve since the EDSA Revolution. They live comfortably in walled communities that separate them from the rest of the city. For them, Manila is a machine humming along nicely, with them as the economic drivers of this engine. Indeed, in 2015, National Capital Region (NCR) GDP growth grew by an astonishing 6.6%, contributing 36.5% to the total national GDP growth. This was buoyed by a robust services sector, comprised of the Business Processing Outsourcing (BPO) sector and the attendant gains in the real estate market brought about by greater demand for office space for these firms. There is an overwhelming confidence in the future of the Philippines in Manila. But this future is a very specific one— the future envisioned here is one where Starbucks stores dot the landscape and everyone owns a Vios. The poor are still visible but are reduced to a tolerable few. This vision of the future is a decidedly middle class one.
Words by Liam Calvin C. Lu Graphics by Diana F. David
18 BUSINESS
For others, Manila is the backyard of the privileged few. It is the residence of the oligarchs that dominate the country and control its resources. It is the realm of scheming politicians and unethical businessmen plotting ways to plunder the wealth of the nation with impunity. For them, Manila is a city waiting to be pillaged. Their power is no joke— in 2013, the combined wealth of the 40 richest families amounted to 23% of the nation’s GDP; in 2014, this figure grew to 26%. As the economy grows, the rich get richer, and the poor get poorer. These families preside over the vital industries of the nation— construction, electricity, banking, and shipping— from the comfort of their exclusive subdivisions in Manila. The image of Manila here is a stark one— poverty is the rule, not the exception. The 1% are the absolute masters of the country. No one can escape their firm hold on the economy, on politics, and on the fate of the Philippines. Here, Manila is an exercise in futility; the situation just cannot be helped. However, to others still, Manila is a land of promise for many who seek to escape from the ravages of rural poverty. They flock to the capital for the slightest chance their plea might be heard. For them, Manila is a city of hope. This voice is heard of the least, being relegated to the margins of society. This is the Manila of the masses— the downtrodden hoping to feel the effects of economic growth. These are the workers employed by companies through contractualization. Unseen and unreachable by the law, endo workers have no form of stable income from which to build their lives on. These workers comprise the informal sector— in 2008, the Philippine Statistics Authority estimated that 784,050 informal sector operators resided in NCR, accounting for 7.5% of total population in the area. Despite this, these people are hopeful. They are hopeful that the current President’s promises come through and see them become regularized into their occupations. Their vision of Manila is an inclusive one— one where everyone gets to share in the wealth of the nation. This vision of Manila is predicated on a desire for social justice and a respect for human dignity. This is a Manila that cares. In all this, the narrative of Manila is a malleable albeit enduring one. The narrative of Manila is shaped by its residents, the multitude of Manileños that make the city vibrant. At the end of the day, the decision remains our own. It is up to us to shape the city whether as a playground for the wealthy few, or an inclusive metropolis in the service of the people.
BUSINESS 19
“THIS IS THE MANILA OF THE M A S S E S —T H E DOWNTRODDEN HOPING TO FEEL THE EFFECTS OF ECONOMIC G R O W T H .”