D-Brief
Edition 18
Te x t i l e s
D-Brief Bangkok, 22 February 2012
Dear Partners, Asia not only plays a key role in textile and garment production, but the region is also home to top quality locally made fabrics with a long history. Join us this month to learn more about ethnic textiles, how they are made and where to buy the best products. Laos is well-known for its wide range of tribal costumes, each made out of hand-woven hill-tribe fabrics. Despite the fact that nowadays these costumes are only worn for special events, beautiful scarves can still be bought from the skilled hill-tribe women. In Bhutan, by contrast, the law requires all citizens to wear their national dress in public areas or as formal wear. Made out of yak hair, cotton and silk, the brocades and complex wrap patterns of Bhutanese fabrics are widely known outside of the Kingdom for their superior quality. Lastly, we look at Indiaâ€&#x;s most famous dress, the Sari. Top Delhi designers create modern adaptations of this traditional dress, which not only wows every Indian fashionista, but is a great exotic piece of clothing to take home as a souvenir. Sincerely,
Your Diethelm Travel Team
Textiles Taking a closer look at local, handmade textile production, one realises how much this craft reflects the traditions, beliefs and customs of its weaver. While Asia in general produces high quality fabrics, we focus on the elaborate garments of Laos, Bhutan and India in this edition of D-Brief.
Laos Luang Prabang in northern Laos is home to many hill-tribes whose women weave and sell beautiful fabrics. Visit one of the community projects around Luang Prabang and learn more about the different patterns and designs, each of which is unique to a specific ethnic group.
Bhutan Weaving in Bhutan is a family affair with top quality fabrics being handed down from generation to generation. As it can take up to a year to weave the main piece of cloth for the traditional dress of a Bhutanese woman, it is not surprising that these garments are considered an asset and traded like gold.
India In India, the sari is and remains the first choice of clothing for millions of women across all castes. Thereâ€&#x;s no other dress in the world which is more elegant, graceful and flowing! We guide you to where in Delhi to buy a sari and who the current chic designers are.
Northern Lao Textiles If you are interested in textiles you will love Laos. The different patterns and materials used are as diverse as the Lao people, who can be divided into 49 officially recognised ethnic groups. Luang Prabang, the royal city of the north, is one of the main spots where visitors can buy fabrics and visit weaving villages. It is easy to access craft shops and watch some of the incredible weaving happening first-hand. Strolling along the Night Bazaar in front of the former Royal Palace, visitors get an initial impression of the beautiful fabrics the local villagers produce. For those interested in the ancient art of weaving, we suggest visiting one of the weaving sites outside of Luang Prabang and putting aside your holiday money to purchase a unique, delicately woven fabric from one of the local community projects.
Traditionally, as in many other countries, it is the women who weave; as well as prepare the dyes and perform the actual dying of fabric themselves. Therefore, it is the women, rather than their menfolk, who proudly wear the traditional clothing. Materials used to produce clothing, carpets, bedding and even curtains are often home grown, from silk made from silk worms which live in mulberry plantations, to hemp and organic cotton which grows in the cool mountain air.
Join us in discovering why Laotian textiles are such an essential part of the countryâ€&#x;s cultural diversity and learn where you can buy and how you can support the Laotian textile industry. As everywhere in the world, old traditions are getting replaced by new lifestyles, so make sure to include a visit to charming Luang Prabang on your next visit to the region.
Textiles of the Lao-Tai & Hmong The Lao-Tai Having migrated from southern China during the first millennium A.D., the Lao-Tai brought silk making and weaving with them. The Tai Lue, a subgroup of the Lao-Tai, are especially well known for their tapestry weaving which often incorporates several techniques into one fabric, resulting in motifs such as flowers, birds and geometric shapes. The Lue weavers still dominate the weaving in Luang Prabang, having been the royal court weavers in ancient times. The Hmong The Hmong are believed to have immigrated to Laos from the plateaus of Tibet and Mongolia some 200 years ago. They can be separated into three sub groups, each of them distinguishable by their attire: • The „blue‟ Hmong produce clothes in indigo batik fabric which is used to decorate their skirts. • The „white‟ Hmong don‟t use batik techniques, but decorate their skirts with white bands of embroidered hemp fabric and are well known for their needlework. • The „striped‟ Hmong stitch bands of fabric to the sleeves of their jackets.
Usage & Motifs Home-woven textiles are used in daily life, as well as for special ceremonies. Traditionally, teenage girls weave textiles as a dowry, which is then given to her husbandâ€&#x;s family when she moves into the family home after marriage. Items vary from floor cushions to blankets and curtains. It is also common for girls to weave small gifts for boys as a token of their attention, such as a handkerchief or a small bag. Motifs used for Lao textiles often reveal a lot about its owner or the weaver. Textile enthusiasts can determine the ethnic group, region, purpose and marital status from examining an item. The shin, a traditional Lao skirt, for example, has different patterns from village to village. The Thai Lue ethnic group wears it horizontally striped (ikat weaving technique) with tapestry. Symbols which are often used in fabrics include the naga (mythical snake), butterflies, birds and elephants. Whilst the snake symbolizes fertility, the butterfly is a short-lived symbol and thus only worn by young girls.
Weaving Villages around Luang Prabang Luang Prabangâ€&#x;s surrounding hills are inhabited by many weaving villages. Diethelm Travel Laos can organise a day trip to these villages in order to learn more about the local people, their lifestyle and of course different weaving techniques. Ban Phanom Weaving Village, located on the banks of the Nam Khan River, used to be one of the main suppliers of textiles to the Laotian Royal Family. The fabrics produced here contain a lot of history and the patterns remained unchanged from the past. The villagers sell them at an affordable price and are happy to show you around. An alternative option is to visit the Living Crafts Centre, open daily (except national holidays) from 9 am to 5 pm. Here, you can watch the weavers working on traditional looms, sign up for classes and learn about Lao textiles. The village is only 2 kilometres from Luang Prabang and easily reachable by bicycle, tuk tuk or car. You can also learn more about Lao Textiles at the Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre in Luang Prabang, located at the foot of Phousi Hill at Ban Khamyong (closed on Mondays).
Where to Buy Laotian Textiles Quality homemade products, created according to fair-trade principles do not come cheap. They are, however, the perfect ethnic gift to take home. Diethelm Travel Laos recommends the following shops which sell beautiful fabrics from the region: Ock Pop Tock This weaving gallery‟s goal is to keep Laotian textile art alive for the next generation. Roam through a beautiful selection of locally made scarves, home textiles and accessories at one of their stores in the old town of Luang Prabang (73/5 Ban Vat Nong and 23 Sakkarin Road) or at the Living Crafts Centre outside of town. Kop Noi Visit the Kop Noi Export Promotion Centre near Wat Aham and L'Etranger, the renowned „Books & Tea‟ coffee shop, and be assured that you will find a stunning piece of fabric. Best of all, all items sold at Kop Noi were produced by surrounding villages under the fair-trade label and provide local communities with income to ensure them a better quality of life.
Bhutan’s National Dress – The Kira & Gho Bhutan‟s hand woven fabrics are praised by experts and enthusiasts all over the world, and due to the fact that the kingdom‟s national costumes are made from local cloth, the art of weaving is one of the most treasured crafts in the country.
The kira and gho, the national costumes, have remained the most common choice of attire in Bhutan. By the end of the twentieth century, with modernization finally having arrived in the kingdom, the national costume gained even more importance.
Interestingly, weavers are mostly women who sell their products on the market or to co-ops and do not belong to a particular social group or corporation. Being acknowledged as a good weaver brings much recognition and prestige, as well as family pride. This explains why textiles are not only seen as a source of income, but as heirlooms and hand downs. High quality fabrics such as a female family member‟s most festive kira have immense value and are considered an asset which is traded like gold, stocks or land.
For a small country surrounded by giant neighbours, the kira and gho are elements that clearly set Bhutan apart from the rest of the region and give the Bhutanese people a sense of identity. Unfortunately, like so many other ancient arts, the Dragon Kingdom‟s weavers are in decline. For textile enthusiasts and travellers who love the local crafts, Bhutan‟s rich textile art tradition is well worth a visit.
The Bhutanese National Dress Could you imagine having to wear the national dress of your country whenever you leave the house? In 1989, the National Assembly of Bhutan announced that all Bhutanese citizens must wear the kingdomâ€&#x;s national dress in public areas. For men in Bhutan, the appropriate attire is a robe known as the gho, while a women's traditional costume is a wraparound garment called the kira. Both written records and images suggest that until the seventeenth century, the common male dress was different from the current gho. In actual fact, it was Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the creator of the unified Bhutan, who brought the gho to the little Himalayan kingdom. In 1616, Namgyal migrated to Bhutan to flee from conflicts in neighbouring Tibet and he not only was a driving force in the unification of Bhutan, but also introduced extensive alterations to the kingdomâ€&#x;s laws and customs. He brought the gho to Bhutan, which resembles the Tibetan dress for men. Interestingly, today the gho is one of the identifying symbols of Bhutanâ€&#x;s culture.
The Goh & Kira Gho The gho resembles a robe that is worn over a simple inner shirt called toego and wrapped around oneâ€&#x;s body. The height of the gho, the lengths of the cuffs and the degree to which the toego shows at the collar, is used to indicate the status of the wearer in society. That is, only aristocracy, officials or persons of a religious order wore the gho below the knees. Likewise, long cuffs were only worn and the toego was only exposed by the elite. However this has changed since the 1990s as more and more commoners have started to dress this way. Kira The traditional dress for women consists of several pieces, with the kira, a large piece of woven cloth, being the most important piece of the costume. The kira is wrapped around the body in a complex process, fixed with a brooch and with a jacket worn over it. The weaving process to complete one kira takes between six months and one year. Due to the high quality of material and hours invested in making it, reselling a kira is quite common.
Bhutanese Weaving Techniques Like precious fabrics, the art of weaving is passed down from mother to daughter. Almost every Bhutanese household accommodates a loom, the most important tool of every weaver. Traditionally, all materials were woven on a vertical loom, with a back strap to support the back of the weaver. Nowadays, cotton and silk fabrics are woven on the back strap loom, whilst a pedal loom is used for wool. Another common material used in the weaving process to create warmer and sturdier fabrics and to make water-resistant items such as tents and overcoats is yak hair. Bhutan is best known for its intricate brocade weaving technique which is a supplementary weft technique. This gives the ornaments on the cloth a raised effect, almost as if the pattern was embroidered on. This technique can often been seen on a womanâ€&#x;s kira jacket. Weaving in Bhutan also includes the dyeing of yarns. Usually indigenous plants and minerals are used for the dyeing process and like the weaving techniques, the composition of the dyes are closely guarded family secrets.
Weaving Centres & Villages in Bhutan Make sure to stop at the National Textile Museum in Thimphu to learn more about the living art of Bhutanese weaving. The museum showcases major weaving techniques, local dresses and textiles made in Bhutan as well as a live exhibition of weaving techniques. Eastern Bhutan is especially well known for its superior weaving. With a Diethelm Travel Guide, it is also possible to visit the Weaving Training Centres at Pema Gatshel or at Khaling, areas which are both home to traditional weaving at its very best. The centres were established in 1984 by the National Womenâ€&#x;s Association of Bhutan with the goal to preserve weaving among women.
Alternatively, we can take you to Radi, a village located in Tashigang district, which is famous for producing raw silk and fabrics made with the supplementary warp pattern technique, called aikapur. The most sought after products in Bhutan, aikapur dresses from Radi, are handed down from generation to generation and only worn for special occasions.
Where to Buy Bhutanese Fabrics If you are looking for good quality fabric, we can recommend the craft stores in Thimphu listed below, which source locally made fabrics and clothes from all over the kingdom: Handicrafts Emporium located at the top end of Norzin Lam Road, is a government run craft shop with a wide range of goods and a good place to buy clothes. Blue Poppy Bhutanese is a handicraft store specializing in woven fabrics and paintings located in the Kawajangsa area of the city, near the indigenous medicine hospital. There are also other handicraft stores in that area, so if you are looking for souvenirs, this is where we recommend. Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre at the southern end of the town employs around twenty professional weavers and also sells fabric and readymade garments. This is one of the few places in Thimphu where you can watch weavers at work.
The Sari – Fashioning the Female Form It is hard to say what the origin of the sari, India‟s most celebrated piece of clothing, is. This is because there are very few printed records in existence, with the sari‟s history dating back to the beginning of civilisation in India. It is believed that Indians covered themselves with a single piece of unsown fabric long before tailored clothing arrived. Tailored clothing only arrived with the migration of Muslims to India, as Hindus considered clothing pierced by needles as impure. Nowadays, the sari is worn with a petticoat and a blouse, which are believed to be additions made under the influence of the British. In the early 20th century, light and transparent chiffon saris became fashionable, thus requiring some kind of undergarment. The sari is worn by millions of women throughout India, irrespective of their origin or status in society. It is probably
India‟s most prominent symbol, standing for the timelessness and continuity of the Indian way of life. Not only is the sari universal and can be worn by the granddaughter or grandmother, it also shows off the woman‟s body elegantly. Best of all, the sari will never go out of fashion! The different styles, colours, materials and methods of wearing a sari are as diverse as India‟s population. From flowing silks, transparent chiffons to simple cotton saris or heavy brocades, each piece of clothing magically wraps a woman in femininity. Over the next few pages, we will reveal what traditional sari colours stand for and how a sari is worn. On the more modern side, we introduce you to India‟s most fabulous fashion designers and tell you where to go shopping for saris and Indian fashion in Delhi.
How to Drape a Sari A sari can be worn in many different styles, depending on the occasion and the origin of the wearer. No matter which method is chosen, wearing a sari is an art which requires practice. Nowadays, the Nivi draping style, originating from the state of Andhra Pradesh, is the most popular style in India. The traditional sari comes in three pieces: the sari itself, a petticoat and a choli (blouse).
To start off, the end of the sari is tucked into the waistband of the petticoat, and then wrapped once around the waist. Beginning from the tucked in end, several pleats are then folded and tucked into the waistband below the navel. The remaining cloth is wrapped around the body one more time and the end of the sari draped diagonally over the left shoulder. The cloth can pleaded again over the shoulder and it is recommended to fix the pleads with a pin on the Choli, to prevent the sari from slipping of your shoulder.
Sari Colours Colours are a very important aspect of Indian clothing and differently coloured saris are worn for different occasions. However, nowadays, with the exception of marriage receptions, most women wear most colours: white is no longer only reserved for widows, and blue and green saris have become fashionable through all castes. White – was originally only worn during rituals or religious occasions. The colour is associated with mourning, which is why widows tend to wear white. Red – has sexual qualities and is supposed to promote fertility. It‟s the colour of choice worn by brides. Green – was once associated with the merchant class. Blue – is associated with manual labour and was originally worn by farmers and weavers. Black – this colour is not often worn, as it reflects sorrow and bad luck. Yellow – stands for religion. Traditionally, women wore yellow for seven days after having a child.
Delhi’s Fashionistas India‟s latest fashion trends are not dictated by the traditional haute couture houses of Paris; India has its own league of fashion trendsetters. Unknown to many non-Indians, we introduce two of the country‟s premier fashion designers, who take a modern approach to styling traditional dresses: JJ Valaya Hailing from Rajasthan, JJ Valaya is well known for his gorgeous creations which are a fusion of ancient crafts and weaving techniques plus fashionable haute couture. His signature style includes rich, unique handiwork and he has definitely done his part to rejuvenate and promote traditional craftsmanship in the face of globalisation. Manish Malhotra Malhotra started his career in Bollywood, clothing India‟s leading actresses and working as a stylist in many famous Hindi films. In 1998, he decided to go into mainstream designing and opened his own glamorous fashion label. Manish is celebrated for his stunning designs and has fitted several high-profile Indian wedding trousseau parties.
Where to Buy Saris in Delhi Hauz Khas Surrounded by medieval monuments overlooking a lake and park, Hauz Khas village is a narrow maze of medieval streets retaining a village atmosphere. The houses have been converted into unique and trendy art and craft shops, boutiques and galleries. Many sell shawls, jewellery, home decor and a couple of top Delhi fashion names exhibit here. The glittering saris are fabulous to see and there are also some western clothing items.
Address: Hauz Khas Village, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi Fabindia Of a more mainstream appeal is Fabindia, India's largest private platform for textile-based products. Cotton, silk, wool, grass, linen and jute are the basic fibres used. Fabindia is located inside the Khan Market, a shopping quarter favoured by expats and Delhi‟s elite and perfect for those who dislike shopping in malls and want the more „Indian‟ experience.
Address: 14, N-Block Market, Greater Kailash Part I, New Delhi - 110048
Or Luak (Oyster Omelette) Originally Chinese and found throughout Thailand from street stalls to top restaurants, this delicious and crispy omelette surprises with an unusual tang!
Preparation Method Preparation: 10 minutes Cooking: 15 minutes 1.
Ingredients (serves 4) • • • • • • • • • •
4 eggs 2 teaspoons fish or soya sauce 2 tablespoons tapioca flour 1 tablespoon rice flour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon chilli paste 6 to 8 large fresh oysters Salt and pepper Coriander sprigs
2.
3.
4.
Recipe source: http://allrecipes.asia
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with fish sauce and set aside. Mix the tapioca flour, rice flour and a pinch of salt in 125ml water to make a very thin batter. In a large wok, heat 1 teaspoon oil until smoking hot. Pour in the batter and let it set. Pour the eggs over and when it is almost set, mix everything together. Make a well in the centre by pushing the egg and batter mixture to the sides of the wok. Add the remaining oil and stir in the garlic until fragrant. Add the chilli paste and oysters. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss until heated through. Turn onto a serving platter and garnish with coriander sprigs. Serve with bottled chilli sauce mixed with vinegar to taste.
Recipe
Coming Up: Chaul Chnam Thmey – 13 to 15 April 2012 Chaul Chnam Thmey or the Khmer New Year, celebrated for three days in April, is the most important cultural festival in Cambodia. Marking the end of the harvest season, it is an ideal time, being hot and dry, for farmers to take time off and celebrate a new beginning. The New Year is celebrated by visiting temples to get blessings, performing various rituals and playing a number of „New Year‟ games. Cambodians follow the tradition of sprinkling holy water on each other‟s faces in the morning, on the chest at noon and on the feet in the evenings. Similar to Thailand, these days are also celebrated by pouring coloured water and throwing powder on friends and relatives. All over Cambodia, families enjoy a break from routine and spend their free time dancing, eating and playing games. It‟s a welcome change and Cambodians like to have some fun, after having performed the traditional rituals at the temples. Whilst a lot of shops, museums and government offices will be closed during this time, visitors will be able to watch and participate in ancient Khmer traditions. It‟s a great party!
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D-Brief
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