D-Brief Edition 3 - Ethnic Tribes

D-Brief

October 2010

E t h n i c Tr i b e s

D-Brief Bangkok, 25 October 2010

Dear Partner, This month‟s edition of D-Brief showcases the fascinating beliefs and traditions of diverse ethnic tribes in Laos, Bhutan and Malaysia.

In the highlands of the Himalayas, two nomadic tribes have adapted perfectly to the extreme Bhutanese weather conditions, while in Sarawak the Ibans – a tribe widely known for its headhunting traditions – live hand in hand with the jungle, its animals, plants and spirits. Laos, with over 240 ethnic groups, is home to many hill tribe communities that can also be found in Thailand, Myanmar, Vietnam, Cambodia and southern China: The true melting pot of Asia!

We thought this topic would be useful to you when recommending a cultural encounter with a difference. Diethelm Travel offers various experiences you can pre-book, which incorporate these intriguing people.

Sincerely yours, Victoria Sertic Chief Sales Officer Diethelm Travel Group

E T H N I C T R I B ES

Bhutan

The Nomads of Bhutan

The Gasa district, which covers the middle and high Himalayas at altitudes from 2770 to 8000 meters, is located in the extreme northwest of Bhutan. Gasaâ€&#x;s winters are extremely cold with heavy snowfall, whereas its summers are short with little rain. Despite this climate, two tribes have settled in what is probably the highest and most remote region on earth: the Layaps and Lunaps.

The Layaps and Lunaps are semi-nomadic yak herders. Their lifestyle is centred around the seasons and the yaks; which are a source of food, transportation, shelter and an indispensable part of their culture. In summer the families move from yak camp to yak camp to allow their cattle to graze on different areas. Yak camps exist at up to 6000 metres altitude and can, due to the extreme weather, only be utilized in summer.

While moving around with their yaks, the Layaps and Lunaps find shelter in tents made out of tightly woven yak wool. The yak wool is waterproof but allows smoke to escape and at the same time permits light and fresh air into the tent. A truly amazing material! When the families move down to warmer areas in winter, they stay with host families. In exchange for a roof over their heads, they work for their host and trade their animal products for food or other goods they need.

The tribal dress shows another example of how well the Layap and Lunap people have adapted to their environment. The Layap women, who stay with the yaks, dress in vibrant and colorful dresses, made up of layered yak wool garments.

The men on the other hand, are dressed in simple, weather proof yak garments, to assist in dealing with extreme weather conditions on their long trading missions.

The Legend of the Layaps & Lunaps

Living in villages as isolated as Laya and Lunana, legends are turned into history. Both tribes are said to have originated from Tibet in the fifteenth century and the elders, still today, tell the tales of their origin and culture. An example of which below: “The Layaps used to live in southern Tibet in a region that was haunted by a series of unfortunate events. These were believed to be caused by a terrible curse and so the inhabitants of the village decided that the only way to end the curse was to send it away. The residents of one unlucky village were chosen and banished, dressed in black cloaks and a pointed hat. It took them several days to find a new home, but when they saw the beautiful valley beneath the majestic Mount Masagang they shouted, “La-Ya” in excitement. Since then the inhabitants of Laya – the Layaps – have kept their unusual outfits as it ultimately brought them luck. The distinctively pointed hat is still worn today by the women, who

believe, if they fail to wear the hats, the village spirits will be upset and misfortune will come back to the people.”

Source: Wangchhuck, A., Treasures of the Thunder Dragon, Penguin 2006

The Lunaps, on the other hand, found Bayu – the hidden land – for a very different reason:

“Long ago, when Shabdrung Ngwang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, was building Punakha Dzong, the palace of great happiness, he asked for a workforce from all over the Country.

However, a lot of men did not want to help building the palace and hid in the mountains.

According to legend, the Lunaps ran the furthest to high altitudes, where they still live today. Due to their choice of settlement, in a very remote location, the Lunaps had a reputation for wanting to be left alone and not opening up to visitors. However, nowadays they welcome all tourists warmly.”

Source: Wangchhuck, A., Treasures of the Thunder Dragon, Penguin 2006

Did You Know?

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As men can be away from the family for a long period of time, a Lunap or Layap women can have more than one husband. Sometimes the cohusbands are brothers, so that whilst one brother is away on a trading mission, the other one can still help at home with the yaks.

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Bhutanese people, who chant prayers on prayer beads are a common sight, especially on religious days. There are 108 beads in a Buddhist rosary, which is a sacred number corresponding to the 108 different manifestations of the Buddha of Compassion.

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Chewing of Doma Pani (betel leaf and areca nut with a dash of lime), which is carried by many in their pouches, is an all time favorite all over Bhutan. The offering of doma to someone is an act of friendship, politeness and a mark of generosity.

Old Spirits Protect Buddhist Deities

When Buddhism was introduced from Tibet into Bhutan, the locals did not just replace their old believes with the new religion. They simply integrated Buddhism into their shamanistic and animistic practices. Nowadays, the Layaps and Lunaps believe in a mixture of the two religions. The tribes believe in animistic gods that were especially created to defend and protect Buddhism.

Both tribes attach great importance to the spirit world. When people have disturbed or displeased the spirits, it is believed, they will fall sick or suffer misfortune. Often, the village astrologer is the only person who can soothe the spirits again.

In Lunana, for instance, there are sacred forests that belong to the demon tree and myth has it, that people who need to cross these forests, have to ask the spirits for permission.

Even though the Layaps and Lunaps pray to their spirits and Buddhist deities, there are distinct differences between the two tribes: The Lunaps walk around their shrines anti-clockwise whereas the Layaps walk around them clockwise.

Experience The Layaps Yourself

Active travellers who wish to experience the lifestyle and tradition of Bhutanâ€&#x;s nomadic tribes first hand, can join a 20 day trek to the Laya villages. Hikers will enjoy fantastic panoramic views at an altitude of up to 4900 meters as well as the very interesting local flora and fauna.

The trekking tour starts in the lower Paro region and on the way up to the Thimphu region, traditional Laya and Gasa villages will be visited. According to Layap tradition, anyone can visit any local household without invitation. Therefore, the hikers are always greeted by friendly faces with a cup of tea. In the evenings your guide will, among other things, take you to hot springs for a revitalizing bath or invite you to taste locally brewed beer.

A Diethelm Travel Bhutan representative will be your tour guide throughout the trek and will make sure that you have a unique cultural experience.

E T H N I C T R I B ES

Laos

The Cultural Melting Pot of Indochina

Laos is a country rich in history and beauty. But it has so much more to offer than beautiful temples, great scenery and treks through the hilly forests of the North: Being land locked, in the heart of Indochina, Laos has the most ethnically diverse population of mainland South East Asia. The people of Laos can be divided into four distinctive groups according to their ethno linguistic origin: the Tai-Kadai, the Hmong-Yao, the Mon-Khmer and the Tibeto-Burman group. Each group is divided in many ethnic sub groups, resulting in more than 240 tribes that can be found in Laos. Unsurprisingly, the six million inhabitants of Laos who live in an area somewhat smaller than Britain speak over sixty dialects.

As diverse as Laos' indigenous people are in cultural and linguistic terms, as diverse is their adaptation to the natural and social environment they live in.

Despite the importance of Buddhism in Laos, most ethnic tribes still worship animist spirits. Animist shrines are found in many parts the country and festivals to honour the spirits and ancestors are hold all year around.

We have picked four ethnic groups, each coming from a different ethno linguistic background, to show you just how unique the tribes in terms of their religious beliefs and traditions are. From predicting the future by reading chicken bones to kidnapping your bride, the people of Laos definitely have many interesting stories to tell!

The Four Ethno Linguistic Groups of Laos

The Hmong people migrated in the 18th century from southern China to Laos due to political unrests. Their language belongs to the Hmong-Yao group.

The Khmu people live in the most northern provinces and are aboriginal to Laos and its neighbouring countries. They belong to the Mon-Khmer language group.

The Akha people most probably arrived from Mongolia some 1500 years ago. They speak Akha, a language that belongs to the Tibeto-Burman language group.

The Tai Lao are also called the „low land‟ Lao. They are members of the Tai Kadai language group and moved from China‟s Yunnan province in the 10th century.

Picture source: Traditional Arts an Ethnology Centre (TAEC), Luang Prabang

The Hmong People

If a Hmong boy intends to marry a Hmong girl he will indicate his interest and kidnap her, day or night, from her parent‟s house. A group from the boy‟s clan will then bring the message of the kidnapping to the girl‟s family. At the groom‟s house the bride is welcomed with a ritual blessing that asks the ancestors to welcome the new arrival into the household. After three days, the couple will return to the bride‟s house, where the actual wedding ceremony will take place.

The groom‟s family is required to pay a „bride price‟ to the bride‟s family. Usually the price is negotiated prior to the abduction of the bride and is traditionally paid in silver bars or livestock. However, nowadays money is the preferred payment method. After the marriage, the girl will return to the boy‟s clan, where another party is held to thank the people that made the kidnapping a success: the negotiator(s), the groomsman and brides maid.

The Khmu People

The Khmu believe in fate and have a selection of different ceremonies at hand to determine what lies in store for them. Some of these ceremonies are for the ill, some for the happy and some for the unhappy.

A minor ritual, which can be performed by any elder or knowledgeable member of the family, is the chicken bone divination. The spirits are being asked what the future will look like by sacrificing a chicken and then studying its bones. The ceremony leader will closely examine the holes on each chicken thighbone and then predict good or bad luck, depending on the circumstances of the divination. This is a very difficult undergoing as the reader of the bones must be very knowledgeable or he will never find the right answer.

In case of an unfortunate prediction, the Hmong will try to protect themselves against any bad spirits that could make members of the family ill and thus eventually prevent the clan of working in the fields.

The Akha People

The Akha people are animists and believe that each person that dies, in some way, is protecting the village and making sure that there is an abundance of rice crops. This is why one of the most important symbols in any Akha village is the ceremonial swing that is rebuilt every year.

The Swing Ceremony is held in mid-August and September, approximately two months before harvest season. During the four days and nights, the Akha people sing, dance and make merit, as an expression of respect to their ancestors. On the second day of the festivities, last yearâ€&#x;s swing, is replaced by a new one. The swing is constructed from four newly cut trees, with a seat suspended from a vine rope. Usually, the entire village collaborates to build the swing with the help of a shaman without whom, no sacred swing could be erected.

If you happen to be trekking to one of the villages during the festivities, you might be lucky to watch or even be allowed to participate in the colorful event.

The Tai Lao People

The Thai Lao believe that our human body consists of 32 organs and that the kwan, (which is often described as a vital force that gives harmony and balance to the body), protects the organs. The more kwan are kept in one‟s body, the healthier a person is. The „Baci‟ Ceremony is a common ceremony the Tai Lao celebrate to call for the kwan of a person, in the case of illness, and lead them back to the body, thus re-establishing the balance. The ceremony is usually held in times of transition: birth, marriage, home coming or leaving, entering the monkhood or after illness and injuries.

This „calling of the soul‟ according to Laotian beliefs, can also be experienced by visitors and is a nice way to explain how the spirits are tied to your body. The ceremony ends by everybody tying threads around each other‟s wrists. If you leave at least one of the threads until it rots away, good luck will come to you. Diethelm Travel can organize participation in a „Baci‟ Ceremony for interested visitors.

Discover Laos’ Cultural Diversity Yourself

Located in a heritage building, the Traditional Arts an Ethnology Centre (TAEC) in Luang Prabang exhibits ethnic clothing, religious artefacts and handicrafts, accompanied by explanations and photos. It is the only institution in Laos that develops activities to promote cultural diversity and preservation. Book a guided tour with Diethelm Travel and learn about the background of the exhibits on display. The Museum is also a great spot to buy handicrafts directly from ethnic producers at a fair price for both producers and buyers.

"Fair Trek“ is a Luang Prabang based initiative of villages, the government, local tour operators and NGOs. The initiative aims to create new job opportunities for villagers through tourism in a sustainable way. It integrates visitors into the every day life of local ethnic tribes, while still regulating the number of guests to ensure the preservation of local traditions. Diethelm Travel offers "Fair Trek" adventures from a couple of hours up to 13 days in length.

E T H N I C T R I B ES

Malaysia

The Iban of Sarawak

The Iban, at 30 percent of the entire population, are the largest tribe in Sarawak.

In the 17th century the Iban arrived from Indonesia and back then, they had a reputation for practicing headhunting as well as aggressive territorial expansion.

Many nowadays extinct tribes of Sarawak are believed to have been exterminated by the Ibans.

For Ibans, longhouses are not just a home and shelter. Each longhouse is respected as a „ritual entity‟, which belongs to the spiritual world. The Ibans believe that outside of their longhouse, there is a world of evil spirits and this is why certain parts of the longhouse, such as the entry ladder to the house or the fireplace in the kitchen, have sacred meanings.

The Iban traditionally live in longhouses on stilts which are located near to a river, accommodating the entire village. Each longhouse consist of several units for individual families, called „bilek‟. All bileks are linked by a communal corridor that spans the length of the house and is divided into three parts. The space right outside a bilek is used exclusively by the family, where domestic work can be done.

The rest of the corridor functions as public space and guests can sleep along the outer wall, when staying over.

Living along rivers, each Iban family possesses at least one boat, big enough to fit eight people and mainly used as transport to and from the paddy fields or for short trips. Iban practice shifting cultivation in planting their rice. The tribe tends to alternate planting of their rice which is an essential part of their daily life.

This ritual usually ends with a harvest festival in May. The Iban community celebrates many rituals, which can span from agricultural festivals to healing ceremonies or rituals for the dead.

The Spirit World of the Iban

The Iban believe that nothing happens without cause.

This is why their religion is paying attention to all events whether in the conscious or sleeping stage. In the Iban world, all objects have souls of their own and during daily activities, the soul of man and of spirits often could affect one another. In Iban belief and narratives trees talk, plants walk, monkeys become demons, household tools moan for lack of attention and the sex of a human fetus is determined by a cricket.

This holistic approach towards spirits and objects explains why the Ibans used to keep the head of their enemies as trophy. It was believed that, once the enemyâ€&#x;s head was ritually purified, the soul of the victim would become part of the villagesâ€&#x; ancestral spirit group. During ceremonies, the Iban shaman asked for the help and support of their former enemy who now turned into their ally.

Iban Schamanism – Talking to the Spirits

“In the beginning I used to accompany my father, who was a shaman too, whenever there was a healing ceremony taking place. That‟s how I gained a lot of experience and I learned the „Leka Pelian‟ narrative as well as other shamanic songs. At a later stage, my father gave me a proper introduction into his profession and I started to learn more and more alongside him. Among other things, I managed to send my soul out into the cosmos with the aid of a spirit guide. We Iban believe that „this world‟ has unseen dimensions where only your soul and the spirits can go. With a lot of practice, I eventually was able to go beyond this world; into the unseen „land of the dead‟. My responsibilities are to heal my patients by all means. In the jungle, rivers and mountains that surround us, there live many spirits, souls, evils and ghosts. My healing skills have no barrier because I believe, I can communicate with the spirits. I work with what the jungle offers us and use special stones, oils and knifes that have been handed down from generation to generation.”

Told by Unding anak Libau, shaman of the Serubah Ulu longhouse community

Iban Tattoos – More Than Just Decoration

In the past, both men and women of the Iban tribe were tattooed. These tattoos are more than just decoration, with each having its own meaning and significance. For young men the first tattoo is usually the illustration of the flower of a local egg-plant, tattooed underneath the outside edge of his collar bone. The tattoo location is chosen because this is where the straps of backpacks rest, making the wearer strong for the „bejalaiâ€&#x; journey. During this path towards manhood, a young man has to gain his wealth and fame. On the journey he visits other Iban communities, where his help is rewarded with more tattoos. On his return the tattoos can be read like a map of where he has been and what he has accomplished. For women there are special designs too, with each tattoo being awarded to a woman upon attaining a particular skill (e.g. weaving).

Traditional tattooing is fairly painful and is thus regarded as a small test in itself, especially the first two designs. Today, the tattoos are quite easily available for both locals and tourists who visit Kuching or other parts of Sarawak.

Experience The Ibans Yourself

If you are interested in learning more about the fascinating Iban culture and want to experience a night or two in the jungle, Diethelm Travel operates two to four day jungle experiences.

An example is: Around 290 kilometres away from Kuching in the rainforest of Sarawak, you will board a native longboat and travel upstream for 45 minutes on the Lemanak River. You will arrive at the Iban long house „Ngemah Ulu‟ and at the village, you will be served tea and meet everyone.

This home stay will give you ample opportunity to learn more about the Iban‟s way of life and join activities such as weaving or fishing. Your Iban guide will take you on a jungle trek and show you what the rainforest offers: medicinal or edible plants and fruits, which are used on a daily basis. After dinner at the long house, the Ibans will sound their gongs and perform their war dance in full ceremonial regalia.

You will stay overnight in the longhouse with the Ibans. A very enlightening experience!

Visa Section

Visa Section

BHUTAN Visitors to Bhutan are required to book and obtain their visa through a registered tour operator, as independent travel is not permitted in the kingdom. Diethelm Travel arranges entry visas and clearance for all our customers well in advance of travel.

In order for us to apply for a Bhutanese visa, we need to supply clients with a visa application form. This needs to be filled in and e-mailed back to us at least three weeks before departing for Bhutan. Additionally, every client has to provide a clear scanned copy of her/his passport and needs to bring three additional passport pictures with her/him.

The visa fee with Diethelm Travel is included in any of our quotations for Bhutan. Visas are required for all visitors, with the exception of Bangladesh, Maldivians & Indian nationals, travelling to Bhutan.

Important notes: o It is a requirement of The Department of Tourism in the Kingdom of Bhutan that your visa application is TYPED rather than handwritten. Handwritten visa applications may not be accepted. o Some travellers might hold multiple passports, however it is important that the visa matches the passport your client is travelling with. o Please ensure that the passport is at least 6 months valid at the point of entry to Bhutan.

Visa Section

Bhutan

Recipe of the Month: Indian Fish Curry

Ingredients: • 250 gms fish washed, sliced • 1 cup coriander leaves chopped • 2 tomatoes finely chopped • 8 cloves garlic • 2 green chillies chopped • 1 tsp methi seeds • 1 tsp coriander powder • A pinch turmeric powder • Salt to taste • Oil as required How to make Indian fish curry: Marinate the fish in salt and turmeric powder for 15 minutes.

Shallow fry the fish pieces, drain and keep aside.

Grind the coriander leaves, garlic and green chillies.

Heat oil, add masala paste and fry till the oil separates.

Add tomatoes, methi seeds and powder masalas and fry till the oil begins to float on top.

Add about 1 cup water. Bring the gravy to a boil.

Add the fish slices and cook for 10 minutes.

Serve fish curry hot.

Source: Indian Food Forever

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D-Brief

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