Edible San Antonio

edible san antonio

edible

san antonioÂŽ

the early summer issue issue No. 28

CREATIVE CITY OF GASTRONOMY

eat. drink. think.

21ST ANNUAL

we’ll toast to that over 30 wineries & tasting rooms | museums & historic sites | peaches & wildflowers | German heritage | golf sophisticated shopping | festivals & events | eclectic art galleries | cycling | Hill Country cuisine | live Texas music

Saturday May 26, 2018 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.

City-Wide Plant Exchange Seminars Organic Roundtable and Much More!

Vendor information: (210) 380-3532 or (210) 240-1745

For more information, find us online at

SAFestivalofFlowers.com

$7 adults • Children under 10 free

NEW VENUE THIS YEAR!

Austin Highway Event Center 1948 Austin Highway

edible

san antonio®

FREE PARKING Co-hosted by

Indoor Garden Mall

V i s i t F re d e r i c k s b u r g T X . c o m | 8 6 6 9 9 7 3 6 0 0

The Early Summer Issue 2018 - Issue No. 28

CONTENTS

Above “Peaches” by Carole Topalian Cover “El Nopal” by Olivier Tabary

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

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ADVISORY COUNCIL

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LITTLE BITES

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NEWS YOU CAN USE

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NEW TRADITIONS Recipe Contest Winner

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FARMERS JOURNAL Regenerative Ag II

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EAT LOCAL Dining Guide

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MEET THE STUDENT FARMERS IDEA Schools

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FEEDING HOPE Summer of Hope

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LOCAL GUIDE TO FARMERS MARKETS Where and When

30

NEWS FROM THE GARDEN Change of Season

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LATIN ROOTS Ceviche Story

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RANCH LIFE Carrots and the Cowpony

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HERITAGE RECIPE Arroz con Pollo

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EDIBLE INK Chef Davila’s Cowboy BBQ

38

THE COFFEE LADY Coffee Cocktails

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MIMI’S HEIRLOOM RECIPES Summer Squash

42

SOMMELIER SAYS Breaking up with Cork

45

LOCAL PINTS If the Chancla Fits

47

EDIBLE SOURCES The Directory

48 THE LAST BITE Long Form ediblesanantonio.com

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food for thought

San Antonio® PUBLISHER Frederic C. Covo EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Angela Covo MANAGING EDITOR Delia Covo CREATIVE DIRECTOR Sophie Covo Gonzales BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christopher Covo CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Marianne Odom, Amanda Covo CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Christina Acosta, Jenn Beckmann, Linda Brewster, Will Castro, David Dominguez, Marcella Epperson Mimi Faubert, Iris Gonzalez Melissa Guerra, Michael Guerra Susan Johnson, J.E. Jordan Travis Krause, Noi Mahoney Michael Sohocki, Dave Terrazas Lea Thompson, Cheri White

PRSA San Antonio President Joel Williams and PRSA Award Winner Leslie Komet Ausburn.

AWARDS BLOOM

THIS SPRING WELCOME TO THE EARLY SUMMER EDITION OF EDIBLE SA!

A

s we approach Edible San Antonio’s fifth anniversary this fall, we’ve been thinking and talking about all the people who’ve made this journey such a happy one, and you really are all around us.

So we were especially delighted to learn that one of our Council members, Leslie Komet Ausburn, received a very important honor and well-deserved recognition this spring from the Public Relations Society of America-San Antonio. For all her hard work and brilliant ideas in the arena of Public Relations, her peers and mentors have honored her with the very prestigious Tex Taylor Lifetime Achievement Award.

Congratulations, Leslie and thank you for all you do!

We are so happy and proud for you!

And thank you, dear readers, we are planning a great Celebration for our fifth and we’ll keep you posted.

DESIGN & LAYOUT

Florence Edwards, Pixel Power Graphics

Cover photo by Olivier Tabary

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

John Davidson, Adriano Gadini, V. Hanacek, Nikita Khandelwal MandyKrause, Tracey Maurer Ewan Munro, Ephraim Stochter Olivier Tabary, Carole Topalian

FINANCE MANAGER Louis Gonzales WEB DEV. DIRECTOR Alex Navarro III LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Please call 210-274-6572 or email angela@ediblesanantonio.com ADVERTISING

Please call 210-365-8046 or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com Our heartfelt thanks to the friends and businesses who make this magazine possible.

Remember to like us on Facebook www.Facebook.com/EdibleSanAntonio

Homegrown Media LLC publishes Edible San Antonio every eight weeks.

Distribution is throughout South Central Texas and nationally by subscription.

Subscriptions are $35 annually.

Please order online at www.EdibleSA.com or call (210) 365-8046 to order by phone.

We make every effort to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. soy_ink.pdf

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© 2018. All rights reserved.

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edible San Antonio

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

4/21/15

4:03 PM

FROM

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a special thank you EDIBLE SAN ANTONIO

4

ADVISORY COUNCIL

Chef Michael Sohocki

Leslie Komet Ausburn

Darryl Byrd

Sandy Winokur, Ph. D

Roberta Churchin

Marianne Odom

Chef Stephen Paprocki

Adam Rocha

Di-Anna Arias

Chef Johnny Hernandez

Bob Webster

Chef Jeff White

edible San Antonio

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

little bites

Desert Door founders Brent Looby, Judson Kauffman and Ryan Campbell with harvested Desert Spoon. (Photo by John Davidson)

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A SPIRIT WITH DEEP TEXAS ROOTS

ermented sotol is nothing new … it’s a spirit that’s been made from the Desert Spoon plant for millennia. The art might have been lost to new generations if not for a group of veterans who are now distilling the ancient beverage and creating a line of sotol produced from the West Texas-grown evergreen. The new company, Desert Door, launched recently in Driftwood.

Founders Judson Kauffman, Ryan Campbell and Brent Looby met while earning their MBA degrees at The University of Texas McCombs School of Business. An elective course on entrepreneurship planted the seed that would lead the trio of veterans to developing the first sotol distillery in the nation. Each founder has a passion for the outdoors and the wilds of Texas, which made their sotol venture a natural fit.

“Sotol has deeper roots in Texas than any other spirit. Desert Door is proud to be bringing it back,” Mr. Kauffman said.

The Desert Spoon plant, one of 16 species within the Dasylirion genus, takes up to 15 years to reach maturity. Desert Door uses Dasylirion Texanum to make both the original Desert Door Texas Sotol and the Desert Door Oak-Aged Sotol spirits.

The founders did their research. Based on historical artifacts and other findings, they explained that sotol was first fermented by the Native Americans living in Texas more than 7,000 years ago. Over the last 250 years, West Texans have been known to moonshine sotol in makeshift homemade stills, and the spirit is also made by a handful of producers throughout Northern Mexico, particularly in Chihuahua, Durango and Coahuila.

The modern-day Desert Door process begins by harvesting 12-year-old, wild sotol plants in West Texas, which are trimmed and steamed to convert stored energy into sugar. The plant sugars are then extracted and fermented

in tanks for five days with Desert Door’s organic, proprietary yeast. The resulting mash is distilled in a bespoke, dual-head copper column still.

The Original Desert Door Texas Sotol, a versatile and complex spirit with herbaceous notes, leaves the palate with a crisp earthiness, a hint of floral mint and a touch of sweetness. The 750 ml ceramic bottles of Desert Door Texas Sotol are bottled at 40 percent alcohol by volume with a starting retail price of $50 each.

The 100-proof Desert Door Oak-Aged Texas Sotol is distilled using the most mature sotol plants (15 to 17 years) and then aged for 24 weeks in new American charred white oak barrels. The ultra-premium sipping spirit is reminiscent of a fine aged bourbon with the warmth of brandy and the wild flavors of Sotol. The aged iteration starts with caramel vanilla, mint and floral notes, drawing touches of oak and a subtle hint of smoke from the aging process with a sweet earthy finish – leaving impressions of white peppercorn, rose water and oaky vanilla.

The Desert Door Oak-Aged Sotol is available in 750 ml ceramic bottles priced at $70 each.

The taste of the spirit reflects the growing conditions and the landscape of its Texas desert home. Both the aged and unaged versions of Desert Door Texas Sotol are made with only three ingredients: wild sotol, organic yeast and purified natural Texas water.

The new distillery plans to open its doors to patrons on November 16.

Guests will be able to tour the 6,500-square-foot facility and enjoy craft cocktails and curated goods in the tasting room with a cozy fireplace and works by regional artists.

To learn more about Desert Door and for updates on the distillery, tasting room and future distribution, visit desertdoor.com. ediblesanantonio.com

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NATURAL WONDERS OF SALADO CREEK

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s a student at MacArthur High School in need of extra credit in 1968, I accidentally discovered the natural wonders of Salado Creek while fetching minnows for the bio lab.

The broader area now surrounds hike and bike trails along the 36 miles of the creek. And the mile I traversed as a student so many years ago, from Loop 410 East to the trail entrance at Lady Bird Park, is still a beautiful and diverse ecosystem, complete with rock bluffs, wild flowers, cattails and variegated bamboo.

That same spring-fed creek was also traversed by indigenous peoples about 12,000 years ago, and they certainly would have utilized the abundant plant life as a constant food source. Three shining examples are particularly remarkable this time of year and worth knowing about.

The beautiful soaptree yucca plant (Yucca elata) blooms with spikes of white, six-petal flowers called “Las Lamparas de Dios� or The Lamps of God. The flowers are delicious when picked just after blooming. Simmer or roast the leaves (not the interior pestle) for a sweet flavor packed with nutrition. The flowers left on the plant in turn become an edible fruit that can be boiled, peeled and eaten.

Just before flowering, the stalks resemble asparagus and those, too, are edible when cooked. The roots of the plant can be pounded, boiled and used for soap for washing clothes and people, including hair.

Another blooming yucca-like plant, Desert Spoon, or in Spanish, sotol, sports edible flowers that attract hummingbirds and bees. The leaves growing out of the base have jagged edges, so be cautious. Without the spines, the leaves have been used to weave baskets. The hearts can be baked in an earthenware oven and dried and made into nutritious cakes that yield a sweet molasses flavor and keep for months. The plant was also used to make a fermented beverage much like tequila or mescal called sotol, which is now being distilled in Driftwood by a new, veteran-owned company called Desert Door.

Many varieties of cactus with magnificent colorful blooms dot the creek beds. Nopales, the tender new growth of the Prickly Pear, is deeply nutritious. Researchers at the University of Texas at San Antonio found that consuming nopales can help decrease body weight, LDL cholesterol and blood sugar levels. (Count me IN!) The juice of the pear, (later this summer) is an immune booster with anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties.

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edible San Antonio

Nopal in full bloom (Photo by Ephraim Stochter)

When harvesting the tender young paddles, use tongs to avoid the invisible spines, which can be removed by brushing under running water. Prepare the nopalitos by removing outer edge of each pad with a sharp knife, scrape off the nodules and slice into pieces.

Boil gently in salted water for 20 minutes with sliced onions, sliced garlic and carrots. Add a touch of vinegar and use with scrambled eggs, in soups and stews or as a salad. Delicious! ~ Susan Johnson

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

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THE CUTTING EDGE

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CHEESEMAKING

iver Whey Creamery founder Susan Rigg believes there’s always something new to learn about the artisanal craft of cheesemaking and works to continually hone her skills. The award-winning cheese producer works under fastidious conditions to produce a wide range of full-bodied, aged cheeses and her creative approach is anchored by a deep understanding of local conditions and how those conditions affect the structure and flavor of cheese.

“As an artisanal cheesemaker, I’m always refining my craft because every batch is different,” Ms. Rigg said. “There are changes in the milk seasonally because of what the cows eat, and how the weather impacts the cheese making conditions in our small facility.”

River Whey Creamery introduced its latest creation, the Gouda-style Indigo Ridge cheese, in 2017. The creamery also offers three other aged cheeses. The Welshman is a raw cow’s milk cheese with deep, tangy flavors reminiscent of aged cheddar, while the Keystone is an Italian farmhouse style of cheese. Caldera España is River Whey’s version of a northern Spanish cheese smoked over Texas pecan wood.

“The most important factor in developing a new cheese is time,” Ms. Rigg explained. “With Indigo Ridge, it took an entire year of experimenting and aging batches until we were satisfied with our newest aged cheese.”

Ms. Rigg, already an award-winning cheesemaker, recently spent time with Russell Smith, one of the world’s top cheese judges based in Australia, at the World Championship Cheese contest in Wisconsin.

After the competition, Mr. Smith traveled to Antonelli’s Cheese Shop in Austin and asked to visit local cheesemakers.

He arrived at River Whey Creamery with Alex Palomo, Antonelli’s wholesale director, to tour Ms. Rigg’s creamery and taste her cheeses in early March. She shared her approach and methodology for quality controls for each cheese batch, how each cheese is evaluated weekly and how they meticulously accumulate data on the best batches coming from the aging cave.

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(Photo Courtesy)

edible San Antonio

Mr. Smith tasted each cheese and professionally assessed texture, flavor and aroma, giving our local cheesemaker invaluable insights to enhance the consistency and quality of the cheeses from batch to batch.

“Getting feedback from a cheese judge like Russell is a one-of-a-kind experience for any artisanal cheesemaker, including Susan,” Mr. Palomo added.

Mr. Smith also shared detailed feedback about how River Whey Creamery’s cheeses compare to others in the same class as Ms. Rigg’s.

Cheeses in the American Cheese Society competition are judged in a double-blind competition, and each cheese is evaluated by an aesthetic and a technical judge. The two experts judge for flavor, aroma, texture and appearance, and document defects for all entrants in each category.

“I don’t get to taste so many cheeses in the same class as mine, so I don’t get to compare them like a judge would,” the cheesemaker explained.

She hopes the experience will help her avoid cellar palate, a winemaking term that describes winemakers who become acclimatized to drinking their own wines. With the visiting judge’s insight, Ms. Rigg now has a framework of reference that includes a wider scope of knowledge of artisanal cheeses.

Armed with Mr. Russell’s insights, she plans to further refine her cheese making. No stranger to cheese competitions, Ms. Rigg’s fresh St. Clements spreadable cheese won First Place at the national 2016 American Cheese Society competition in the soft unripened cheese category, a notable achievement for a creamery that has been in production only since October 2014.

“To be so young as a cheesemaker and so advanced is quite the achievement for Susan,” Mr. Palomo added.

River Whey Creamery cheeses are available at the Pearl Farmers Market Saturdays and Sundays. The creamery is located at 17361 Bell North Drive, Suite #115 in Schertz. Learn more at www.riverwheycreamery.com. ~ Iris Gonzalez

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

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SALUD! CULINARY NIGHTS

(Photo by Angela Covo)

BUG DINNER, PART 3

T

he Chef Cooperatives are well known for their passion to connect the community to local farmers and ranchers, but they’re also keen on facilitating culinary adventures. In May, the Witte Museum hosted a star-studded subset of the team of local chefs as part of the Salud! Culinary Nights series for a third installment of the popular Bug Dinner.

Eating bugs has moved beyond just being a curiosity with national movements extolling insects as smart, sustainable nutrition – the future of food. And Americans have responded, exploring the potential of this protein source for several years.

Though not quite main stream in the U.S., edible insects are available in the Grocery and Gourmet Food department on Amazon.com.

And the cause has serious practitioners and champions. Robert Nathan Allen, founder of Little Herds, an Austin-based educational nonprofit, was on hand to explain the new culinary dynamic. His organization endorses bugs as a dietary choice and promotes the benefits of entomophagy, the practice of eating bugs.

“Eighty percent of the world already consumes insects as a regular part of their diet,” Mr. Allen explained before the dinner. “In addition to creating fewer greenhouse gas emissions and requiring fewer resources than meat production, eating bugs is a healthy alternative to traditional protein sources.”

Four chefs worked hard to create the memorable dinner.

Chef Tatu Herrera’s wife, Emilie, boldly embraced her husband’s newfound passion for bugs, graciously accepting the role as his official taster in solidarity.

“He experimented with different dyes and flavors to make the critters more appealing and flavorful.” Ms. Herrera shared.

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She fearlessly munched on Chef Tatu Herrera’s first course, a beautifully plated Tequila Gastrique and herb salad with ratchet chapulines (grasshoppers). For the record, chapulines are a popular Mexican specialty – the grasshoppers have been a dietary staple there for hundreds of years.

The second course was prepared by Chef Toby Soto, with just a few guests visibly flinching. He intrigued the evening’s trailblazers with Silkworm Plantain Red Mole topped with Queso Oaxaca.

Chef Stephen Paprocki presented the main course, encouraging the adventurous eaters as he served up his Surf and Turf Mopane Worm and Braised Short Rib. He recounted his own experience when first asked to create recipes with bugs and reminded guests that not long ago, people felt squeamish about sushi.

“I remember in the 1980’s, I grew up in New York, one of the biggest things out there was sushi, raw fish,” Chef Paprocki said. “YUCK! That was the headline on the front page of the paper – we got a sushi restaurant coming in and yuck. Now sushi is mainstream.”

The chef cited culinary pros, restaurants and grocery stores already serving and selling bugs for consumption in San Antonio. “Don’t be afraid to try something new,” he added.

Chef Michael Grimes wrapped up the night with a sumptuous dessert, a coffee cricket tiramisu with a delectable citrus mascarpone. He shared that his own son, Nico, is ready for the future.

“Whether by taste or because of their glittery appearance [in this dessert], he eats crickets by the handful.”

Keep up with the Chef Cooperatives at www.chefcooperatives.com and learn more about edible insects at www.littleherds.org. ~ Will Castro and Angela Covo

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

June 23rd, 2018

Live Music - Noon-9:30pm @ Luckenbach Texas F o o d T r u c k s & W i n e r i e s - N o o n - 8 p m (or until sold out) Proceeds benefit the Texas Center for Wine and Culinary Arts

mORE Info @ www.luckenbachtexas.com

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Sweet Circles of Love owner Julie Ann Rader creates sugar cookies to enjoy whether you’re looking for something tiny to nibble on or need a huge gift, like the Love XL, which is a staggering 6.4 ounces.

(Photo courtesy)

SWEET CIRCLES OF LOVE ARE JUST THE RIGHT SIZE

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friendly get together was the spark that ignited Julie Ann Rader’s passionate business endeavor. Her homemade cookies were a hit at the party and her taste-tester friends believed her delicious morsels could be turned into a great business.

As a little girl, Ms. Rader enjoyed baking everything from scratch with her family, and as an adult, she still enjoyed it and found it therapeutic. Still, as far as she was concerned, the risk and all the associated costs of starting a new business were not very appealing. It took a financial setback and a little information from her hairstylist to get her going in the right direction.

“I was in a job transition phase. When my friend suggested I open a bakery, I said ‘you know that costs a lot of money,’” Ms. Rader said. “Then I told my hairstylist about the idea and she told me about The Cottage Law.” That little bit of information was the game-changer. Ms. Rader started Sweet Circles of Love soon after, and thanks to the Texas cottage industry laws, she was able to start the business out of her home kitchen, which made her start-up costs much lower. The mother-of-two transformed her kitchen into a baking station and office, sourced some local ingredients and got to work.

She started out baking her special signature LOVE cookies, which are made with pecans, dark chocolate and oatmeal. She created a full line based on her special recipe and offers six different sizes – nibble shape (1/8 oz.), love bites (1/4 oz.), love shares (1/2 oz.), love big (1.4 oz.), love large (4.9 oz.) and love XL (6.4 oz.). She shared her cookies at local events, like Tango of the Vines and the San Antonio Cocktail Conference.

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The orders for her LOVE cookies starting coming in. Then customers started asking for handmade, hand-decorated sugar cookies. Ms. Radar wasn’t sure she was up to the task since she had little experience piping sweets, but she rose to the occasion when a client requested Batman sugar cookies.

It worked out so well that she added the scratch-made custom sugar cookies to her repertoire and mastered the art of creating holiday- and business-themed sugar cookies, although fulfilling the orders can be quite labor intensive and time-consuming. This year she baked Fiesta and Easter cookies with bright, festive colors and images. And she continues innovating the hand-painted cookies, delivering her masterpieces in beautiful packaging.

The reason her baked goods are so popular is because the cookies are all fresh-baked to order, so clients enjoy the treats at peak flavor. And business is good – she explained that after “baking all night, some days I get up early to bake another order. No two days are alike.”

Ms. Rader’s success with her fledgling baking company has also been encouraging. She’s even contemplating a potential expansion into her own brick and mortar shop. The best part, of course, is that she enjoys the pace at which the business is growing and thoroughly loves what she is doing.

“Right now, I am happy to get the word out of what my business is and how my products stand out from store-bought goods,” she added. To learn more about these fresh-baked, bespoke cookies, visit www.sweetcirclesoflove.com or call Ms. Rader at (210) 303-LOVE (5683). ~ Christina Acosta

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

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LOCAL FLAVORS

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FROM JW MARRIOTT SAN ANTONIO HILL COUNTRY RESORT

n San Antonio, the local food movement is strong. Scores of independently owned businesses are committed to buying local and supporting our local farmers, ranchers and food producers. But more and more, we’re seeing some of the city’s largest corporate hotels participating, and we’re thrilled.

The culinary team at the JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa is all in and seems fully dedicated to the concept.

From membership in a local Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA) program to maintaining an on-site 5,000-square-foot organic garden, 18 Oaks Head Chef Alex Glass understands that not only does food taste better when it travels shorter distances, but supporting local producers and using sustainable methods matters.

Chef Glass sources additional produce and meat from local and regional purveyors. Thanks to the CSA program and the resort’s amazing organic culinary garden, the restaurant’s vegetables are always fresh and typically change week to week, providing a menu with truly seasonal options.

The Chef and his crew make it a point to know where their ingredients come from.

A partnership with Hill Country neighbor, Windy Bar Ranch in Stonewall, Thunder Heart Bison, and at least two or three other local ranchers, allows the culinary team to know exactly where their meat is prepared. The restaurant currently offers house-cured bacon, homemade pickles, and a rotating menu of game meat options including antelope and venison.

For those who appreciate honey, note that it was probably made in-house, seeing as the culinary team also tends three beehives on site producing local honey occasionally used in a variety of seasonal dishes. The resort even invested in their own master gardener, Ms. Bethany Wiltse, who manages every aspect of the on-site culinary garden.

For now, the garden produces fruits and vegetables including tomatoes, squash, beets, radishes, lettuces, culinary herbs and of course, the heirloom blackberries, which even have their own backstory.

Many of the blackberries at the resort are harvested from heirloom vines, which were donated to the property by Ms. Laura Chelikha, the resort’s director of finance. Her grandfather, William Winkenwerder, grew blackberries on a farm in Shiner about 100 miles from the resort.

When the family farm was sold, Ms. Chelikha asked to have the blackberry bushes replanted in the organic culinary garden to keep her grandfather’s spirit alive.

During the summer season the resort’s heirloom blackberry vines produce the delicious fruit that is muddled into the resort’s signature Blackberry Smash cocktail.

Along with the tasty Blackberry Smash cocktail, the freshly harvested berries are pickled in-house and served with sweet onion jam and house-made bacon, and used to make a delicious blackberry jam, paired with house-made biscuits and doughnut holes. Special thanks to Chef Glass for sharing these great summer recipes. Enjoy!

BLACKBERRY SMASH COCKTAIL INGREDIENTS 1oz Agave Nectar 1.5 oz Garrison Brother Bourbon DIRECTIONS Muddle 4 blackberries 4 mint leaves Shake and strain into a rocks glass, filled with ice Garnish with mint and blackberry

SWEET ONION JAM INGREDIENTS 2 quarts sweet white onions - small diced ¼ cups brown sugar ¼ cups white wine ¼ cups white wine vinegar 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon White Balsamic DIRECTIONS Sweat onions in butter until translucent, approximately 10 minutes Add brown sugar, dissolve and add wine and vinegar, simmer until reduced by half Stir in honey and white balsamic Season with salt and pepper ediblesanantonio.com

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Meal Prep

SEVEN TIPS TO REDUCE FOOD WASTE

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e don’t set out to waste the food we purchase, but in the U.S., it turns out we throw out more than a third of our food each year. In terms of real dollars, it adds up to somewhere between $1,365 and $2,275 per household per year, not to mention the resources used to produce and transport that food.

In 2015, a Johns Hopkins study found that people believed a leaky faucet or leaving lights on was more worrisome than throwing away food. But throwing away bad food adds up to more than just a waste of our personal time and money. It also squanders important resources, like water and the energy it took to produce the food and bring it to market. Here are a few tips to use year-round that will go a long way to reduce food waste and help conserve important resources.

The FoodKeeper App

A free app called FoodKeeper, developed by the USDA’s Food Safety and Inspection Service with Cornell University and the Food Marketing Institute, spells out the best ways to store almost any food and beverage. Besides food storage guidelines, the app includes recall alerts, cooking and food safety tips and educational videos.

Freeze fresh foods

If you’re not sure you’ll be using that kohlrabi right away, consider freezing it. Studies indicate frozen produce can be just as nutritious as fresh, especially if frozen almost immediately after picking.

Instead of cooking throughout the week, consider doing all the prep work at once and using every bit of that haul from the farmers market. Store ingredients in containers – sliced and diced and ready to use.

Pre-planning menus also makes it easier to buy only what you need, not what you might or might not use.

Organize the Fridge

Out of sight, out of mind is often a primary cause of produce going to waste. If you forget purchased fruits and veggies because they are buried in a drawer, switch it up. Put berries in glass containers lined with paper towels to absorb moisture and store on the fridge shelves.

Use those drawers for foods you reach for often.

Make a Smoothie

If fruits and veggies look a little mushy and won’t make it another day, toss them in the blender with yogurt and ice cubes. Texture isn’t such a big deal when you grind it all up and voila! Enjoy a delicious breakfast or snack packed with vitamins and minerals.

More Tech

Avoid impulse buying at the market and consider outfitting your refrigerator with a FridgeCam from www.Smarter.am for remote photographic access to your fridge with your smartphone. You can see what you need from wherever you are and shop smarter. You can also try the Berry Breeze (amazon.com), an ionizer for the fridge that keeps food fresher longer.

Compost or Use the Organic Recycling Bin

When all else fails and those veggies must go, don’t just throw them in the trash. Composting or recycling can divert up to 330 pounds of food waste per household per year.

The impact of throwing away food is far greater than it seems. With these few tips, you can be part of the solution and save time, money and precious resources.

Storing food correctly will help it keep longer.

(Photo by V. Hanacek)

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MIDYEAR

FOOD TRENDS

F

ood waste, consumer values and online innovations are expected to continue to drive major food and nutrition trends in 2018 according to the International Food Information Council Foundation (IFIC).

“The rise of the connected consumer and technological advances will help redraw the food landscape in 2018,” IFIC CEO Joseph Clayton explained.

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

BLOCKCHAIN FOR FOOD TRACKING “Blockchain” is an emerging buzzword in the digital realm and soon to be added to our culinary lexicon. The relatively new tech leverages data to improve business efficiencies and supply chains, and for the food system, might pave the way to food safety. Harvard Business Review called it a “foundational technology” poised to remake many of our financial and social transactions and industries. Blockchain will potentially help give consumers unprecedented information about where their food comes from.

By some estimates, about 40 percent of food produced for our consumption never reaches a human stomach. IFIC research suggests food waste is both an educational challenge and an opportunity, with food producers and purveyors stepping up to address the problem. Growing awareness and concern about sustainability in general and the impacts of food waste, including environmental, economic, humanitarian effects, indicate broader interest in food values. Seafood sustainability is a specific area of concern, as consumers better appreciate the health benefits of seafood but also want it to be produced responsibly and sustainably.

NUTRIGENOMICS: FOOD AT THE MOLECULAR LEVEL

“BOOM” GOES THE INTERNET

LESS IS MORE: CLEAN LABELS AND CLEAN PACKAGING

If you thought a lot of food was being purchased online already, just wait. While the food sector notes relatively modest gains year over year, the virtual side of business is booming with more ways to buy groceries online and a growing list of new players and familiar retailers rushing to meet the demand. Vertical integration and consolidation, a vibrant startup culture and strong economy yields new choices and added convenience for consumers. Key trends include more diversity and continued evolution in home-delivered meal kits, the use of connected, voice-controlled digital assistants that facilitate consumer purchases and faster food deliveries with a wider variety of options from packaged to perishable.

Nutrigenomics, broadly speaking, studies how our diets influence our genes. A growing body of evidence and scientific interest in the field have us on the brink of revolutionary advances in personalized nutrition. Nutrigenomics is unraveling the mystery of why people respond differently to different diets, and how that response affects weight – questions that have long bedeviled nutrition research. New insights will improve the quality of future scientific studies – not to mention the quality of our diets and health.

While the clean label movement reaches new heights, the food system continues to grapple with what the term means and how it might affect claims being made about foods. In a possible backlash to label clutter, including the proliferation of certifications, marketing and health claims, some food producers are developing minimalist packaging to help set them apart and reduce consumer confusion.

The mission of the International Food Information Council Foundation, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, is to effectively communicate science-based information on health, food safety and nutrition for the public good. Learn more at www.foodinsight.org. ediblesanantonio.com

15

little bites U.S. Army veterans Lattoia and Cornelius Massey recently opened the Jerk Shack on the West Side.

(Photo by Noi Mahoney)

BRICK AND MORTAR AND PIMENTO WOOD A TASTE OF JAMAICA ON THE WEST SIDE

G

reat Jamaican food is hard to come by in any large city, but here in San Antonio, a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, we now have The Jerk Shack.

The new restaurant at 117 Matyear Street, near the campus of Our Lady of the Lake University, has a great vibe and looks like it could have been pulled right off the Caribbean island.

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“It’s very reminiscent of an authentic jerk shack in Jamaica,” Lattoia Massey, who owns the restaurant with her husband Cornelius, explained.

Jerk refers to a style of Jamaican cooking, in which meat is dryrubbed or marinated with a spicy mixture called Jamaican jerk seasoning. Ms. Massey, who moved to the U.S. when she was four, said they were inspired to open the restaurant because they noticed a lack of authentic Jamaican food here.

To be fair, there are two other Jamaican restaurants in San Antonio – Little Jamaica Foods on Walzem Road and Jamaica Jamaica Cuisine on Austin Highway.

At The Jerk Shack, expect a mix of authentic Jamaican dishes. Ms. Massey, aka Chef Nicola Blaque, refined her own creations from recipes from her hometown of Mandeville, including Jamaican jerk chicken and pork, jerk-fried chicken wings, steamed whole fish snapper, braised oxtail, curry goat, jerk shrimp and grits, jerk-fried chicken wings with mac’n’cheese, jerk chicken and pork tacos (yes, tacos!), Jamaican patties (spicy beef, beefy cheese and vegetables), cocoa bread and more. (We heard there might even be pineapple waffles …)

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

The pair also offer jerk-grilled chicken or pork by the pound as well as vegan options like jerk jackfruit with rice, peas and sautĂŠed cabbage and coconut curry vegetables with rice and peas.

The signature dish at The Jerk Shack – the jerk chicken – is marinated in Jamaican herbs and spices and grilled to tasty perfection.

The full menu features a range of Jamaican delights. Oxtail, served with rice and salad, is flavorful and tender, as is the curry goat. Buttermilk grits with steamed shrimp are decadently delicious. Mac n’ cheese served with Jerk Shack’s jerk-fried chicken wings make for an outstanding combination.

Mr. and Mrs. Massey met nine years ago while serving in the Army in Iraq and lived in Hawaii on the island of Oahu for several years after completing their tours.

Mrs. Massey, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio in 2016, explained they moved here in 2014 so she could study at the venerated culinary school. Then, realizing the city was packed with possibilities, they resolved to stay to tap its potential. “We decided to stay in San Antonio because we thought we could make more of an impact here – San Antonio is really becoming a foodie city,� she added.

They bought the building at 117 Matyear Street just off West Commerce last December and spent several months renovating, adding an outdoor eating area in a friendly, open environment and creating a look reminiscent of a typical Jamaican jerk shack. “If you go to Jamaica, all the jerk shacks on the island look like this ‌ where you order at the window and eat out in the open.

That’s what we are trying to create here,� Mr. Massey added.

The Jerk Shack sits in the Rosedale Park area on the city’s old West Side, a predominantly Hispanic part of San Antonio steeped in history and culture. The City of San Antonio recently completed a $16.2 million improvement project on nearby Elmendorf Lake Park, which connects to the beautiful Apache Creek Linear Park near the new eatery.

The Masseys hope to establish The Jerk Shack as a neighborhood restaurant and gathering place, and it already looks like it will be a great addition to this unique part of San Antonio.

Get your own taste of Caribbean cuisine Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. or until they’re sold out. For more information and updates, visit facebook.com/thejerkshacksatx. ~ Noi Mahoney

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ediblesanantonio.com

17

little bites

PEARL’S

SUMMERLONG TRICENTENNIAL PARTY

W

hen San Antonio Meets Spain From June 15 until Sept. 15, the Pearl will celebrate Spanish heritage and culture in honor of San Antonio’s Tricentennial. They call it Olé, San Antonio.

The cultural feast goes on all summer and organizers will highlight four main pillars that are strongly represented here -- gastronomy, music and dance, arts and architecture – a lovely tip o’ the hat to the city’s recent designation as a UNESCO City of Creativity.

The entire Pearl community is coming together for this unprecedented party. Expect to see restaurants featuring Spanish menus and unique chef collaboration dinners,specially curated Spanish items in Pearl shops and special activities in Pearl Park.

“Our intention with creating Olé was to acknowledge our 300 years of history with Spain and to create a truly monumental celebration that people will cherish and remember for the rest of their lives,” Pearl’s Chief Marketing Officer Elizabeth Fauerso explained.

“We want to bring the entire city together, along with our friends from Spain, for a collaboration that can only happen in this special Tricentennial year.”

The Spanish Heritage theme will take over the neighborhood to bring you Tapas Tuesdays, Gin Tonic Thursdays and great Spanish wine selections. Several chef-driven dinners will allow our chefs to collaborate with visiting Spanish guest chefs, although the details are still in the works.

The Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio(CIA) will also be playing a very active role. The school will host Spanish master classes for its students and food enthusiasts all summer and lead several cooking demos in its beautiful Latin Kitchen covering classic Spanish cuisine like tapas, paella and Spanish wines.

Hotel Emma will also say Olé with several culinary concierge-driven Spanish demos and foodie classes around the six essential Spanish food categories: olive oil, wine, cheese, jamón (ham), salts/spices and conservas (tinned fish).

Supper, Larder and Sternewirth will also participate, filling their shelves with flamenquines, Saffron, Spanish sea salts, jamóns, tapas, sangrias and gin tonics. The hotel will also host several Spanish dinners at Supper featuring chefs from Spain.

Spanish singer Concha Buika will perform at Pearl Park in August. The Grammy nominated artist was voted one of the world’s “50 Great Voices” by NPR. Ms. Buika was born 18

edible San Antonio

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

in Majorca to African immigrant parents and she drew on a wide range of influences, including flamenco, Latin, jazz, and R&B musicas she developed her talent.

Arts and architecture will also be a major focus of the Olé programming, and a collaboration with the San Antonio Museum of Art on its exhibition Spain: 500 Years of Spanish Painting from the Museums of Madrid will emphasize the connection.

The official opening and closing events are already packed with a great deal of programming.

On June 21, the official opening day of Olé, events include a Dia Mundial de la Tapa (International Day of the Tapa) tasting at Pearl Stable, a flamenco performance in Pearl Park by Pure Flamenco Primitivo Family Dance Company and a celebration of Spanish cuisine and cooking techniques at the CIA. Olé’s closing day, September 15, will include an intercambio dinner, a mariachi-flamenco performance with Spanish guitarist Luis Gallo performing with local San Antonio artists as part of Mariachi Lab, and a Cabezudos (big heads) parade.

The full Olé schedule, with confirmed dates, a website and app dedicated to everything Olé will be available soon.

news you can use THROW-BACK FLAVORS AT LICK HONEST ICE CREAMS Lick Honest Ice Creams is bringing back a hyper-local flavor they debuted in Austin in February. The Roasted Mesquite Bean Cookie is back for the summer (by popular demand) and available at the ice cream maker’s Pearl location. You can send a taste of Texas to anyone not fortunate enough to live in our great city, too. Lick now ships nationwide. Enjoy!

“MEATUP” AT THE PEARL ON JUNE 9 Texas Monthly returns with its 2nd Annual MeatUp event in San Antonio bringing together local pitmasters from their “Top 50 BBQ Joints in Texas” list.

They’ll be serving up meaty dishes along with live music, cold beer and hand-crafted cocktails. For more information and tickets, visit bit.ly/MEATUP2018.

Join us on Facebook Live!

June 2, 2018 10:00 am Love a great cooking show?

Grab your apron and join Mayor Ron & CHEF for a morning of fun and healthy cooking.

We’ll be preparing delicious breakfast items – follow along on Facebook Live and tag the Mayor in your photos!

Go to FitCitySA.com to learn more.

ediblesanantonio.com

19

new traditions

SANDY OAKS ANNOUNCES WINNER OF FIRST RECIPE CONTEST

D

BY ANGELA COVO

r. Saundra Winokur, founder of Sandy Oaks Olive Orchard, recently announced the winner of the orchard’s first recipe contest. The idea was to discover innovative uses for Sandy Oaks’ latest creation, the Chocolate Aged Balsamic Vinegar.

About 15 recipes made the final cut and were prepared and judged by a team of food industry professionals at the Sandy Oaks Olive Orchard kitchens on March 22.

“We were so impressed by the creativity of the cooks that participated, it was difficult to select the winner. The sauce for the winning entry, Mary Shivers’ Chocolate Balsamic Trifles, was superb,” Dr. Winokur said. “We also added an honorable mention for Elizabeth Aristeguleta’s

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delicious sautéed onions caramelized with our Chocolate Aged Balsamic Vinegar … the flavor profile was outstanding and could be used for steak sandwiches, burgers or any combination of great grilled summer goods.”

With the great response and success of this first endeavor, Dr. Winokur says she is excited to do it again.

“We had such a great response, we will be offering different contests periodically – please check our website or Facebook page for updates,” she added.

Ms. Mary Shivers’ original recipe for Chocolate Balsamic Trifles was selected by a panel of food professionals as the official winner of the first Sandy Oaks Olive Orchard Recipe Contest.

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

CHOCOLATE BALSAMIC TRIFLES Mary Shivers’ recipe, using the Sandy Oaks Chocolate Aged Balsamic Vinegar to create an amazing syrup, was unanimously declared the winner of the first Sandy Oaks Recipe Contest!

Prepare the Pound Cake

INGREDIENTS (Serves 8) For the Sauce 3 tablespoons Sandy Oaks Chocolate Aged Balsamic Vinegar 3 tablespoons local honey 1 teaspoon lemon juice

Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium high heat and spray surface with cooking spray.

For Assembly Non-stick cooking spray 2 (1-inch thick) slices from a 9-inch loaf pound cake 1/2 cup strawberry ice cream topping, chilled 8 (2 oz.) 2¾-inch tall mini dessert glasses (see note below)

Assembly

DIRECTIONS Prepare the Sauce In a small heavy bottom saucepan, heat balsamic vinegar, honey and lemon juice over medium heat until mixture begins to bubble, stirring often.

Reduce heat to low and cook until mixture is reduced by half, stirring often.

Remove from heat and cool.

(The panel used Sandy Winokur’s family recipe for Sour Cream Pound Cake – recipe below.)

Lightly brush both sides of each cake slice completely.

Cut each grilled cake slice into 8 cubes.

Place a cake cube in a dessert glass.

Top with 2½ teaspoons ice cream topping then a second cake cube.

Drizzle with 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar mixture.

Use a toothpick to poke down sides of glass to allow balsamic vinegar mixture to run down.

Top with ½ teaspoon ice cream topping.

Repeat for remaining dessert glasses. Serve immediately.

Note: Alternative serving sizes – May also assemble in 16 1-oz. plastic dessert cups by using only one cube of pound cake in each and cutting ice cream topping and balsamic vinegar mixture in half for each. Alternately, the recipe may be tripled then layered in a trifle dish.

BONUS!

HONORABLE MENTION

SANDY OAKS OLIVE ORCHARD POUND CAKE RECIPE

CHOCOLATE BALSAMIC VINEGAR CARAMELIZED ONIONS

INGREDIENTS 1 cup butter 3 cups sugar 6 eggs, separated 1/4 teaspoon soda 1 cup sour cream 3 cups flour

Elizabeth Aristeguleta from New Braunfels earned Honorable Mention for her wonderful idea of caramelizing onions with Sandy Oaks Chocolate Aged Balsamic Vinegar, perfect for burgers, steak sandwiches or grilled foods.

DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 300 degrees, then butter and flour a large Bundt pan.

Cream together butter and sugar.

Add 1 egg yolk at a time until thoroughly mixed.

Alternate adding flour and sour cream to mixture until well blended.

Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into batter.

Pour batter into Bundt pan.

Cook in 300 degree oven for 1½ to 2 hours or until inserted cake tester is clean.

Let cake rest 15 minutes before removing from pan.

When cake is cool, dust cake with powdered sugar.

INGREDIENTS 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon Sandy Oaks Olive Oil 3 tablespoons Sandy Oaks Chocolate Aged Balsamic Vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper DIRECTIONS Add olive oil to skillet and heat on low. Add onion slices, Sandy Oaks Chocolate Aged Balsamic Vinegar, salt and pepper. Cook on low until onions are stringy and vinegar is reduced, about 45 minutes. Use to dress hamburgers or grilled steak sandwiches. ediblesanantonio.com

21

farmer’s journal

REGENERATIVE AG PART II TO SAVE THE EARTH

BY TRAVIS KRAUSE Travis and Mandy Krause own and operate Parker Creek Ranch near D’Hanis, Texas. Their farm is family owned, multi-generational, pasture-based and they implement regenerative agriculture. Mr. Krause shares a farmer’s perspective with our readers in this column. This is the second part of his series on regenerative agriculture. Visit the Krauses at the Pearl Farmers Market or online at ParkerCreekRanch.com.

T

he folly of modern agriculture is all around us and it’s easy to get mired in negativity. Conventional methods have come at a great cost to farmers, the environment and our communities. The damage includes the devastation caused by heavy pesticide use, food waste, loss of biodiversity, fragile supply chains and more. The so-called modern approach tore the heart, skill and pride out of farming. And the destruction is systemic, reaching far beyond our local farming communities.

A global problem requires a multi-faceted solution. At this juncture, no single best practice can restore what once was or achieve the balance of regenerative agriculture. Nature functions as a system and restoration demands a systematic response. I believe regenerative agriculture can be achieved by following these six principles which I borrowed and tweaked from Terra Genesis International.

Use a holistic, cooperative approach.

Make decisions aimed at specific system changes.

Allow people, farms and places to express their full potential.

Continuously evolve agricultural and ecological processes.

Connect the farm to the larger ecosystem and community.

Agriculture is the foundation of society.

In terms of regenerative agriculture, farmers play a vital role in society. Agriculture is the foundation of all civilization, and by holistically improving agriculture, we elevate the whole. The affirmation that agri22

edible San Antonio

culture is an essential component of any worldwide effort to improve our environment and health is principal to the effort.

As a consumer of farm products, you may be thinking, ‘why should I care about what happens on farms hundreds of miles from where I live?’

It turns out that choices farmers make about how to steward the land can directly impact you.

On our farm tours, at the end of a long hay ride as we near Parker Creek, we stop to talk about the overall effect farmers have on the ecosystem and community. Mandy provokes the discussion by asking if everyone drinks water. Everyone raises their hands – and she explains how our management decisions affect the water quality at Parker Creek.

After a rain, water moves slowly through our pastures to Parker Creek into Seco Creek, then flows into the Frio River to Choke Canyon Reservoir and Lake Corpus Christi. That reservoir provides the drinking water for residents of Corpus Christi and the surrounding communities. We often don’t think about how one small farm can impact the greater system. But in this case, our choices impact the quality of drinking water for millions of people. Rest assured, water that flows from our farmland will carry no pesticides or chemical fertilizers into that drinking supply.

How much good can one farm do? Probably not much, but if we widen the scope and look at the management practices of all the surrounding farms that use pesticides, fertilizers and continuously plow, the incremental and detrimental impact of each farm adds up fast.

As a consumer, every food purchase you make is a vote. Your dollar to support agriculture has positive or negative impacts on the greater system. Do we want to support agriculture that further denudes the soil and damages our communities, or do we want to regenerate the soil and connect our communities to return to a healthy, natural state?

The choice is yours.

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

little bites

edible

SAN ANTONIO

MARKETPLACE River Whey Summer Cheeses

lick Old Favorites and New Flavors Midsummer Surprise is Back!

Tahitian Vanilla Sea Salt and Fresh Ginger

Plus Come and Meet Our New Fresh Cheese, Taste It for Yourself!

At Pearl

in San Antonio

Check Out Our Class Schedule at . . .

ilikelick.com

www.riverwheycreamery.com

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Give the gift of Edible

Please call 210-365-8046 or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com

Art

6:30-9 pm Sheraton Gunter Hotel

&

Food

With over 30 food vendors, 60 fabulous local artist, and with special guest performer Rick Cavender this is a spectacular event you do not want to miss!

Benefiting Our Blind Children's Program

For tickets or more information visit salighthouse.org/events or Contact Nancy Lipton at 210-531-1533

ediblesanantonio.com

23

Seasonal dishes at Sichuan House (Photo by Sophie Covo Gonzales)

THE LOCAL DINING GUIDE

Welcome to our newest section, the Edible San Antonio Local Dining Guide.

Special thanks to our growing list of sponsors, all local and independently owned establishments that support Edible SA’s mission. Restaurants are selected for their commitment to using local and seasonal ingredients as much as possible and for their partnerships with local farmers and food artisans. Enjoy!

Candlelight Wine Bar s Coffee House

Stylish and hip, South Alamode makes authentic gelato fresh daily using the finest ingredients.

The Southtown eatery at Blue Star offers specialty Italian sandwiches and outstanding coffee.

Generous portions are the rule Open Wednesday through Sunday Noon – 10 PM

NEIGHBORHOOD PIZZA AND CRAFT COCKTAIL BAR LUNCH | DINNER | WEEKEND BRUNCH LATE NIGHT DINING HAPPY HOUR 3 PM TO 6 PM EVERY DAY PIZZA MONDAY | $10 PIZZAS OPEN SEVEN DAYS

TAKE A BIG BITE OF LOCAL! DISCOVER GREAT COFFEES, CRAFT BEERS AND SIGNATURE WINES IN OUR RELAXED ATMOSPHERE. WINE DOWN WEDNESDAY (ALL WINES ½ PRICE WITH FOOD) HAPPY HOUR | TUE – FRI 4-7 PM WEEKEND MIMOSA BRUNCH | 10 AM – 2 PM

1420 S Alamo St, SATX 78210 210.788.8000 | southalamode.com

2720 McCullough Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.2261 | barbarosanantonio.com

3011 N St Mary’s St, SATX 78212 210.738.0099 | candlelightsatx.com

LIVE FIRE MEXICAN KITCHEN AND PATIO BAR

FAMILY-OWNED NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT SERVING UP SEASONAL SOUTHERN AND AMERICAN EATS IN A CASUAL SETTING

BEYOND JUST CAJUN OR CREOLE THERE’S MORE TO NEW ORLEANS CUISINE WELCOME TO THE COOKHOUSE OPEN TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY HAPPY HOUR 5-7 PM | DINNER 5:30-10 PM RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

HAPPY HOUR (FREE CHIPS & QUESO | DELICIOUS DRINK SPECIALS)

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DINNER | WED – SAT 5-11 PM HAPPY HOUR | WED – SAT 5-7 PM BRUNCH | SAT 10 AM – 4 PM | SUN 10 AM – 8 PM

LUNCH | TUE – FRI 11:30-2 PM DINNER | TUE – THU 5-9 PM | FRI – SAT 5-10 PM

2403 N St Mary’s St, SATX 78212 210.530.4236 | eatchisme.com

2195 NW Military Hwy, SATX 78213 210.503.5121 | clementine-sa.com

edible San Antonio

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

LAISSEZ LES BON TEMPS ROULER! 720 E Mistletoe Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.8211 | cookhouserestaurant.com

AT BIG TEX Old World Methods, Extraordinary Results Locally Sourced, Sustainably Prepared Lunch | Tue-Fri 11-1:30 PM Dinner | Tue-Thur 5:30-9 PM | Fri-Sat 5:30-10 PM Reservations Recommended

MONDAY – THURSDAY 11 AM – 10 PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY 11 AM – 11 PM SUNDAY 11 AM – 8 PM

AUTHENTIC EUROPEAN RESTAURANT DUCK | PORK | GOULASH | SCHNITZELS | APPLE STRUDEL CZECH WINES | PILSNER URQUELL BEER KOLACHE EGGS BENEDICT BREAKFAST AND LUNCH DAILY DINNER WEDNESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY

152 E Pecan #100, SATX 78205 210.222.1849 | restaurantgwendolyn.com

403 Blue Star, SATX 78204 210.635.0016 | burgerteca.com

518 River Road, Boerne TX 78006 830.331.1368 | littlegretel.com

SAN ANTONIO’S PREMIER ROOFTOP BAR ROOFTOP OASIS | SOARING CITY VIEWS COFFEE BAR | CRAFT COCKTAILS BREAKFAST | HORS D’OEUVRES

MEXICO INSPIRED BURGERS

AT BIG TEX

OPEN SEVEN DAYS

TUESDAY – THURSDAY 5 PM – 10 PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5 PM – 11 PM SUNDAY 10 AM – 4 PM

102 9th St Suite 400, SATX 78215 210.340.9880 | paramourbar.com

403 Blue Star, SATX 78204 210.635.0036 | villaricasa.com

LUNCH DAILY 11 AM TO 3 PM BRUNCH SATURDAY & SUNDAY 11 AM TO 3 PM TAS TIN G IS BELIEVIN G 106 Auditorium Circle, SATX 78205 210.802.1860 | pharmtable.com

eat chinese

SICHUAN HOUSE ENJOY A GREAT LUNCH AT THE ORCHARD WITH CULINARY DELIGHTS FRESH FROM OUR GARDENS

赵

四 savor sichuan 川 食在中国味在四川 府

SAN ANTONIO’S HISTORIC EAST SIDE BAR AND GRILL SOUTHERN COMFORT FOOD

WEDNESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 11 AM – 3 PM

LUNCH | DINNER | WEEKEND BRUNCH LIVE MUSIC OPEN SEVEN DAYS

WE ARE EXCITED TO SHARE OUR CULTURE AND HOMETOWN EATS WITH OUR BELOVED SA COMMUNITY COOK-TO-ORDER MENU FOR SHARING SPICY AND NON-SPICY OFFERINGS OPEN SEVEN DAYS | LUNCH AND DINNER

25195 Mathis Rd, Elmendorf TX 78112 210.621.0044 | sandyoaks.com

1338 E Houston St, SATX 78205 210.320.2192 | facebook.com/tuckerskozykorner1948

3505 Wurzbach Rd #102, SATX 78238 210.509.9999 | facebook.com/sichuaneats

SUSTAINABLE FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANT 15 MINUTES SOUTH OF DOWNTOWN SAN ANTONIO

The crab cake at Little Gretel (Photo by Angela Covo)

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25

Students at IDEA Public Schools are having a blast learning where their food comes from. (Photo courtesy)

MEET THE STUDENT FARMERS

C

BY LEA THOMPSON

ecile Parrish, IDEA District Farm Coordinator, bent down to survey the carrot crops after a recent freeze.

“Look at these carrots,” she said, quickly pulling the roots from the soil. “We’re still on track for some good crops.”

Ms. Parrish oversees the 1.5-acre farm at IDEA Monterrey Park on San Antonio’s West Side. IDEA Public Schools, which includes more than 60 charter schools throughout Texas and Louisiana, serve underserved communities.

“We have a lot of students who struggle with food insecurity,” she explained. “We know that we provide students with the bulk of their daily caloric intake, but our Healthy Kids Here initiative aims to make IDEA the healthiest school district – through food, physical movement and mental wellness – in the nation by 2022.”

She wiped the dirt from the carrots she just pulled.

“The farm is part of IDEA and Healthy Kids Here, but the farm has become an experiment for the whole city: how do you turn an abandoned lot in an urban setting into a farm in San Antonio?”

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When Ms. Parrish arrived in 2016, the lot was covered with Bermuda grass and a dry, calciferous soil. She worked with several organizations including the City of San Antonio’s Solid Waste Management Department to add organic materials to bring the soil to life.

And despite IDEA’s many zoning and policy issues, the schools are projected to grow more than 9,000 pounds of food for the schools’ cafeterias in 2018.

“We still don’t have city water hookups, so we are running [the entire farm] with a connection to the fire hydrant,” Ms. Parrish said. “It’s a challenge, but it’s working.”

Torin Metz, a production farmer who joined IDEA in 2017, works with Ms. Parrish to install beds, grow crops, secure farm grants and help with the more labor-intensive work.

“These students are choosing to be here,” Mr. Metz said. “The farm allows students to explore, get their hands dirty and learn about horticulture food justice and climate change.”

The Monterrey Park team regularly collaborates with regional cafeteria and farm personnel to plan seasonal crops like red cabbage, water-

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

melon and corn to create the student menus. It’s essential that the crops are easy for the farmers to grow and easy for staff to use in meals.

IDEA classes use the Junior Master Gardeners curriculum, developed by Texas A&M University and Texas AgriLife, which requires students to spend at least eight weeks completing projects and lesson plans – covering gardens, farms, nutrition and general wellness – before earning the state certification.

IDEA schools certified 30 Junior Master Gardeners in 2017, and staffers expect to certify more than 100 students in 2018. The program also helped students realize the devastating effects that food inequality has on individuals and communities.

“I had a student tell me that ‘They want us to be sick, that’s why we need the farm. If they’re not going to give us the [food], we have to grow it [ourselves].’ Watching the realization of food justice and food deserts wash over this eighth grader was really powerful,” Ms. Parrish said.

She credits the farming initiative with a transformation in students’ attitudes toward unfamiliar and nutritious foods.

“Suddenly they’re fighting over mustard greens and arguing over who gets [to eat] the biggest leaf.”

The IDEA farms and programming are largely designed for middle schoolers but offers visiting opportunities to local ninth grade and elementary-aged children. Students who participate in IDEA’s after-school farm program can expect to help mulch, start seeds and harvest crops.

This year, Junior Master Gardeners will learn how to dehydrate herbs, create their own healthy spice mixes and, thanks to a grant from Native Seed Search, learn to grow rare heirloom varieties of vegetables.

“I’d love for this [programming] to be standardized for all incoming sixth graders,” Ms. Parrish added. “Eventually, the goal is to move past food production for cafeterias to offer fresh, nutritious foods to the surrounding IDEA communities.”

IDEA developments for 2018 include new hoop houses at Monterrey Park for a year-round growing season and a student meditation garden – to help with behavioral problems and further plant education – with a walkway and a small strip of native Texas trees. All IDEA campuses will be monitoring Monarch butterflies and their habitats later this year, as they learn about the pollination process.

Ms. Cecile Parrish oversees the 1.5-acre farm at IDEA Monterrey Park. (Photo courtesy)

“We’re trying to make it so [others] know that [a farm] is not impossible – it can be done.”

To learn more about the program, or to volunteer at the farm, email cecile.parrish@ideapublicschools.org.

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27

feeding hope, feeding hunger

SUMMER OF HOPE

BY MICHAEL GUERRA Mr. Michael Guerra of the San Antonio Food Bank writes the Feeding Hope column in every issue of Edible San Antonio. His goal is to spotlight the food economy from different perspectives, particularly sharing that of those in need.

O

ne morning earlier this month, the first call I received was from one of my team leads. I could hear in her voice that something was not right, and it wasn’t. The night before, a middle-aged man had walked into our Food Bank’s emergency food pantry just as we were closing. He desperately needed our assistance with food, and she was the one who helped him.

“I left my wife and two girls at home,” he said. “I told them I was going to H-E-B to buy the food we needed.”

Choking back the tears and starting to tremble, he stared at the floor.

“I didn’t have the courage to tell them the money ran out and we have not a penny for food,” he explained. “Please, please help me.”

It was that last whisper that profoundly affected my staff member.

She also recently lost her father, and as she recounted the story her emotions welled up. She felt the depth of this man’s fear, pain and shame – all because he could not feed his family. He told her he had “failed as a father.”

We were his last resort that night. But what happens the next day, and the day after? This is where the story shifts from problem to solution, where a man and his family can move from fear to hope.

Even in our great city of more than a million, with its proliferation of restaurants, top-of-class grocery chain and nearly full employment, 1 in 5 adults faced hunger at some point in the last year. And their experience of being food insecure reflects the larger picture, a lack of income – most live near or below the poverty line.

More than half of those at the poverty line are working, sometimes at two hourly jobs for minimum wage. Some are going to school, studying to get ahead. And many are elderly, living on a fixed income that can’t stretch enough to cover the ever-increasing bills.

And every day, the personal circumstances and stories of those seeking assistance are heart-breaking – like the mom with two elementary school-age children in tow, traveling with them by bus at the end of her second shift to get fruits and vegetables she and the kids could carry back home.

And the gentleman who felt as though he failed as a father? He certainly did not. His courage to seek help at the Food Bank was the right thing to do. The next day, and the day after that, he will not be facing his dire circumstance alone. Thanks to the hard work of so many, SAFB will help connect him and his family to programs and resources that can assist and help through the crisis.

The warm weather is a reminder that summer is upon us and school vacations are at hand. In San Antonio, it also means more than 200,000 children will be at risk for hunger. These children receive a free or re28

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SAFB is working hard to make sure no one misses lunch this summer. (Photo courtesy)

duced-price breakfast and lunch at school, but during summer break, most will have many days when hunger is a real experience.

SAFB PREPARES FOR SUMMER OF HOPE

“Summer is by far the time we see the greatest need for food,” SAFB President & CEO Eric Cooper said. “We see seniors skipping meals due to higher utility bills in the summer. And so many families with kids are unable to meet the extra expenses of the summer that there’s nothing left for the grocer at the end of the week.”

For the dad who had no place to turn, for the parents facing increased summer expenses with kids out of school (day care, higher grocery needs), the San Antonio Food Bank, along with a handful of other local agencies, will provide hundreds of thousands of free meals for kids this summer. Breakfast, lunch and snacks will be prepared and delivered to hundreds of group sites across the city. Kids will be nourished, fear will be squashed, and we will be feeding hope as well.

You can make a difference, too. Please share, via social media, where families facing hunger can get help with summer meals. If you or someone you know would like to volunteer to help make summer meals or even donate food or funds to support summer meals – find us @safoodbank. For more information, visit www.safoodbank.org.

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GUIDE TO SAN ANTONIO FARMERS MARKETS MOBILE MARKET

Alamo Ranch Farmers Market 210-446-0099 www.alamoranchfarm.market Call or visit website for information

MONDAY

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Palo Alto College 1400 W. Villaret Blvd 4th Mon of month 9 a.m. – 12 p.m.

TUESDAY

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Main Plaza 115 Main Avenue 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m – 1 p.m.

WEDNESDAY

LocalSprout MidWeek Market LocalSprout Food Hub 503 Chestnut Street 5 p.m. – 8 p.m.

Rustic Roots Market 1116 Angelo Street Castroville, TX 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market Leon Valley Community Center 6427 Evers Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m.

THURSDAY

4 City Farmers Market Journey Fellowship Church 16847 IH-35 N Selma, TX 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Cibolo Grange Farmers and Artisans Market 413 N. Main Street Cibolo, TX 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Fredericksburg Farmers Market Marktplatz 126 W. Main Street Fredericksburg, TX 4 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Pearl Night Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 4 p.m. – 8 p.m.

1st Thurs of month

FRIDAY

San Antonio Farmers Market St. Matthews Recreation Center 11121 Wurzbach Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SATURDAY

Deerfield Farmers Market 16607 Huebner Road 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Four Seasons Market Huebner Oaks Shopping Center 11745 IH-10 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Goliad Market Days 231 S. Market Street Goliad, TX 2nd Sat of month 9 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Highland Park Neighborhood Farmers Market 901 Rigsby Avenue 2nd Sat of month 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Legacy Farmers Market Legacy Shopping Center 18402 US Hwy 281 N 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

The Yellow Rose Farmers Market Bandera Pointe Shopping Center 11643 Bandera Road 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

MarketPlace at Old Town Helotes 14391 Riggs Road Helotes, TX 1st Sat of month 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Truckin’ Tomato Local Food Market 10511 Wetmore Road 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Alamo Heights Farmers Market Alamo Quarry Market 255 E. Basse Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Legacy Farmers Market Legacy Shopping Center 18402 US Hwy 281 N 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

SA Food Bank Farmers Market Mission Marquee Plaza 3100 Roosevelt Avenue 1st & 3rd Sat of month 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SA Food Bank Farmers Market San Antonio Food Bank 5200 Enrique M. Barrera Pkwy 4th Sat of month 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Salado Creek Market Los Patios 2015 NE Loop 410 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Weekend Market 2nd weekend of month San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m The Farmers Market at the Cibolo Herff Farm 33 Herff Road , Boerne, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SUNDAY

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Salado Creek Market Los Patios 2015 NE Loop 410 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Weekend Market 2nd weekend of month The RIM Farmers Market Full Spectrum ER 18007 IH-10 W 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

For schedules and information about the San Antonio Food Bank Mobile Mercado, WIC and Senior Farmers Markets, visit bit.ly/SAFB2018.

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NEWS FROM THE GARDEN

CHANGE OF

SEASON UPDATE

BY CHEF DAVE TERRAZAS

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THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

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umultuous as they were, March’s chilly, blustery days finally gave way to spring, bringing decidedly warmer weather. The pleasant change gave our patient gardeners at the San Antonio Botanical Garden their queue to start spring planting. While it was a moment the dedicated crew of twenty or so was eagerly awaiting, spring planting is no small task – this year the garden’s sprawling 38 acres will host thousands of specimens.

WHAT’S GROWING?

The Zachary Culinary Garden’s 34 plant beds took weeks to flip, transitioning from the dark leafy winter greens and earthy root vegetables to summer’s rich chiles and herbs, growing as companions to the heirloom tomatoes, squashes, and ancient grains like amaranth.

Instructors at the garden will also reap the fruits, excuse the pun, of the gardeners’ labor.

Deeply rooted in the central tenet that food is medicine, the garden’s culinary programs will continue to showcase the season’s bounty for its art and gastronomic value as well as its scientific and nutritional virtue.

This modus operandi acknowledges the growing desires of a community that appreciates and supports good and local food. Arguably, the city’s UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy designation, a milestone award for the city and strong culinary corps striving to be more local, sustainable and ethically minded, will serve as a compass for patrons who will speak with their dollars in the future.

The John Brands (Supper), Elizabeth Johnsons (Pharm Table) and John/Elise Russ’s, just a tiny sample of SA’s one-of-a-kind chefs, are representative of those who take up the mantle on the culinary retail side,

while the Botanical Garden complements that drive with fresh programming to educate guests about the season’s bounty.

WHAT’S COOKING?

Already, the garden is flush with unique young cultivars like purple and green zebra-striped tomatoes, unique basils and rows of the ancient grain, crimson amaranth. Young trees that dot the garden boast Meyer lemons, satsumas, plums, peaches, pomegranates, persimmons and figs. The mix of Latin American and Mediterranean cultivars combined with rows of spicy chiles, exotic citrus lemongrass and lemon balm, lush evergreens like trailing rosemary and bay laurel, and even edible flowers, creates a natural pantry instructors will use this season to bring the world “locally” to each and every plate.

As we head into summer, the culinary program will include more recipes that run wild with sweet and tangy berries and lime, umami-rich tomatoes, hot chiles and savory garlic and onion to underscore exciting Latin American, Caribbean, southern Mediterranean and Southeast Asian cuisines.

WHAT’S HAPPENING?

Our standard monthly series – Farm Fresh (celebrating farmers markets), Cocktail Scavenger Hunt and Tea Party How-to – will focus on small plates, tapas. The Foodie Cinema series, showing “Julie and Julia” and “Under the Tuscan Sun,” will showcase recipes from Italy, India, and Bali. And the extremely popular aromatherapy-based mindful practice of the arOMa series is returning. Just like the plants waking up (and pollinating cars), this vibrant, fresh produce should help wake up the city’s taste buds. Find your favorite classes online at www.sabot.org.

STRAWBERRY AND GRAPEFRUIT WITH LAVENDER-HONEY YOGURT ROMANOFF INGREDIENTS 1 each, strawberries, de-stemmed and quartered 1/4 grapefruit, peeled and cubed 1/2 cup Greek yogurt (plain) 3 tablespoon wildflower honey 1 tablespoon white rum 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon grapefruit zest 1/2 teaspoon lavender flowers (plus a little more for garnish)

PREPARATION Cut and evenly distribute the strawberries and grapefruit cubes (cut in size to match the strawberry quarters) into four dessert cups.

In a small mixing bowl, add the remaining ingredients, except for the lavender. Rub the lavender lightly in your hand, then add the flowers to the bowl. Stir all ingredients until incorporated well.

With a spoon, scoop out two tablespoons of the resulting sauce and gently pour over the fruit in each dessert cup.

Sprinkle a few extra lavender flowers on top of the sauce in each cup.

Serve immediately.

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latin roots

Passiflora edulis in bloom. (Photo courtesy)

WHAT I LEARNED ABOUT

CEVICHE IN PERU

BY MELISSA GUERRA

H

aving visited almost every seaside resort along the Gulf and Pacific coast of Mexico, I thought I knew the story of ceviche. Fish + lime juice = sophisticated poolside nosh. Got it. End of story.

However, as an avid food sleuth, it bothered me that I couldn’t figure out why lime juice was always the authentic dressing of choice for ceviche. As all citrus is from Asia, how did limes become such a vital part of a seafood dish featured on every menu across Mexico?

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To really understand the origin of ceviche, understanding its preparation with lime juice is the key. (WARNING … Science-y stuff ahead.) The simple explanation is that an acid lime dressing “cooks” the raw fish, similarly to how fish or any meat would cook over a fire.

But understand that cooking is really a process of unwinding protein strands, which not only changes the texture by firming up the strands but releases the water within the protein. Unwinding a protein strand can happen with the application of heat, or an

acid. We know that fish spoils quickly, and that not all raw fish is recommended for consumption. So when heat isn’t available, adding an acid can “cook” raw fish.

This revelation brings us to the next question. Did ancient sailors from Europe invent ceviche? Many carried limes on their long voyages to avoid scurvy, a disease caused by a prolonged lack of vitamin C. Also, the sailors would have taken vinegar along, a spoiled grape wine also known as acetic acid. Building a fire on board the ship was probably a bad idea, so cooking fish with an acid may have been the way to go.

Different countries also claim the title of originators of ceviche. But of course, living on the border, the loudest claim I always heard was that the dish belonged to Mexico, which I believed.

Until I went to Peru.

Once there, I experienced amazingly fresh seafood, often prepared as ceviche. Peru has more than 1,500 miles of coastline, and for thousands of years, fish and seafood provided the main protein for the Inca empire.

While visiting a village on that trip, I was offered granadilla fruit. Its snaking vines grew everywhere around Peru – in trees, over trellises and through fences. Warm hospitality flourished as well. No matter how humble the household, we were offered pulpy, acidic granadilla as a welcoming snack.

It turns out that Peruvians also use the acidic juice of passion fruit, known as maracuyá (Passiflora edulis). Both the granadilla and maracuyá are native to Peru. Their fruity juices make the most delicious ceviche, and the availability of the fruit makes it a ubiquitous staple in Peruvian cuisine.

Much like an apple falling from a tree onto my head, the common abundance of granadilla told me that Passiflora fruit is the original acid used for making ceviche. As limes and vinegar did not appear in the Americas until after Columbus arrived, Passiflora fruits were used by the Incans to prepare their traditional ceviche. Knowing that authenticity is founded on abundant, native ingredients, my ceviche mystery is now solved.

I am returning to Peru soon and I am looking forward to more revelations, such as the one I experienced with ceviche.

A group of culinary adventurers will be joining me, and we will be sleuthing the origins of other dishes that have always piqued my palate and curiosity.

If you’re interested in joining Ms. Guerra on the culinary quest to Peru, there were still a few spots available at press time. To learn more, contact her directly at melissa@melissaguerra.com

Passionfruit (granadilla)on the vine. (Photo courtesy)

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ranch life

CARROTS

AND THE COWPONY

BY MARCELLA EPPERSON

Marcella and William Epperson of Epperson Ranches raise heritage Corriente cattle, the first cattle brought to the Americas. Most of their foundation herd stock was directly imported from the Sierra de Durango, Mexico. They typically sell steers for roping and heifers for their natural beef program, Heritage Lean Beef, LLC. Ms. Epperson shares a glimpse of her life on the ranch in every issue of Edible San Antonio.

E

aster is over, and gone are the images of bunnies, chicks, eggs and carrots, but that doesn’t mean carrot season is over. I arrived home after a recent trip to find someone had left us nearly 30 pounds of carrots.

After the initial shock of looking in my fridge and seeing a mass of orange, my mind launched into what exactly needed to be done and when, so they wouldn’t go to waste.

First, and easiest, was grating carrots into salads. Next, was a pot roast with twice as many carrots as I normally use. Both dishes were delicious and devoured in short order.

But cake, carrot cake with cream cheese icing and pecans, makes me want to clap my hands. I don’t know about you, but anyone who doesn’t swoon over carrot cake with cream cheese icing might not be trustworthy in my world.

Recipe in hand, and acutely aware of the big load of carrots left, I decided to double the recipe. In no time at all, I peeled and ran enough carrots through the food processor for both.

Truth be told, it had been a while since I’d made a carrot cake, and I wasn’t sure the doubled recipe would even fit in my mixing

bowl. So, on the first go-round, I made a single recipe and baked it in eight-inch cake pans.

For the second recipe, I ended up with leftover grated carrots – so I made a recipe and a half and added coconut to make up for the shortage of carrots. I used loaf pans of assorted sizes. Also, instead of adding pecans to the batter, I chopped them and sprinkled them on top. These I wrapped and froze to have on hand for super handy hostess or thank you gifts.

After the baking frenzy, and to give the freshly baked layers time to cool before frosting, my son and I saddled our horses and left to gather and sort a pasture of cattle.

These cows are what ranch people refer to as brushy – they are wily and know how to hide in dense brush. And, of course, they outwitted us long enough to cause us to ride home into the setting sun.

We unsaddled the horses and finished chores, and as I prepared to make the frosting, I discovered I had no confectioners’ sugar.

Living on a ranch near a small town means a quick run to the grocery store doesn’t just happen. Sadly, the cakes went to bed without their frosting, but most of the carrots were gone.

A handful of carrots were just a bit over the hill. I’d love to say I gave them to a horse, but we don’t generally give our horses treats. Truly though, I tried – they were neither very interested nor impressed. Our carrot-colored cowpony named Lulu smelled, tasted and then spit out her carrot, much to my disappointment.

The chickens and goats will be more than happy to oblige with carrot scraps.

“I don’t know about you, but anyone who doesn’t swoon over carrot cake with cream cheese icing might not be trustworthy in my world.”

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THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

Carrot Cake (Photo by Nikita Khandelwal)

CARROT CAKE INGREDIENTS 4 eggs 2 cups granulated sugar 3 cups all-purpose flour pinch of salt (about 1/8 tsp) 2 teaspoons vanilla 3 cups peeled and grated carrots 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil 2 teaspoons soda 1/3 cup buttermilk 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 cup chopped pecans DIRECTIONS Mix all ingredients together until well blended.

Bake at 300°F for 1.5 hours in a Bundt pan or 2 eight-inch layer pans.

Pecans may be baked into cake or placed on top of icing after baking. I like lots of pecans, so I often bake pecans in the cake and use extra pecans on the icing.

OPTIONAL – 1 cup sweetened coconut may be added to the batter.

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING INGREDIENTS 2 8-oz. bricks cream cheese 1 cup butter, softened 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 pounds confectioners’ sugar DIRECTIONS Cream butter and cream cheese until smooth, but do not overbeat.

Add powdered sugar, beating until light and fluffy.

Gently fold in vanilla.

Optional – in place of Cream Cheese Frosting

ORANGE GLAZE INGREDIENTS 1 1/2 cups sugar 3/4 cups orange juice 1 tablespoon orange zest DIRECTIONS Mix together and boil until sugar is fully dissolved.

Pour over hot cake. Enjoy!

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heritage recipe

ARROZ CON POLLO

ARROZ CON POLLO STORY BY DAVID F. DOMINGUEZ

O

ur Latin culture, like almost every other culture around the world, offers plenty of delicious foods and flavors to satisfy our palates. Some of us are lucky enough to have a tradition or two, or a favorite dish that is not only tasty, but brings joy and comfort because it reminds us of special moments with loved ones.

Arroz con Pollo (in English, chicken with Spanish rice) is a traditional favorite for many Latinos. It certainly qualifies as a heritage recipe because the knowledge is passed down from generation to generation – even though every family has their own style. This classic dish is one of my favorites. Except for my wife, nobody made it as well as my mother, Augustina G. Dominguez. The recipe we are sharing today is from my wife’s side of the family.

The dish was introduced to the Americas by the Spanish, who learned from the Moors to add Saffron … the spice that gives their rice that rich golden color. Our families didn’t use Saffron or Turmeric, but I’m sure you’ll find the taste and color very pleasing.

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Original recipe by Maria V. Herrera Interpreted by Amada S. Dominguez INGREDIENTS 3 lbs chicken, cut up 2 tablespoons chicken bouillon 2 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons Comino (Cumin) 1 1/2 cups rice 2 small onions, chopped 1 bell pepper 2 tomatoes, chopped 1 package frozen peas Oil for the skillet Pepper, to taste DIRECTIONS Boil the cut-up chicken in a pot, and add the chicken bouillon, garlic, cumin and some pepper.

Brown rice in a skillet and sauté with onions, bell pepper and tomatoes.

Add rice to the chicken and allow rice to finish cooking.

When rice is almost ready add some peas.

Meal is ready when rice looks puffy.

Serve as is or serve with beans on the side and some tortillas.

edible ink

ADRIAN DAVILA’S

COWBOY BARBECUE

C

hef Adrian Davila, author of the new cookbook/history tome Cowboy Barbecue, worked very hard to complete his book, which was truly a la-

bor of love.

“I devoted three years of my life to creating this book,” he shared.

And that was no complaint, he was just stating the facts. Ultimately, his goal wasn’t to get published, it was to preserve history, and to make sure nothing got lost.

The Texas tradition of cattle ranching may have started in Spain with the Iberian vaqueros, but Chef Davila’s goal was to document his family’s history, particularly the last 50 years or so. That’s when the family’s Texas story began. Chef Adrian’s grandfather, Raul Davila, took a big risk then and opened a barbecue restaurant in Seguin. And that was, no doubt, the right thing to do. Today, Adrian still works closely with his own father, Edward, to keep Seguin sated and satisfied.

The Davilas are deeply proud of their Mexican-American roots and their family tradition of creating great, award-winning barbecue in Texas. And in Cowboy Barbecue the chef celebrates “traditions of Latin America and Texas, taking inspiration from the vaquero lifestyle and his own family history.”

“I wanted to share my heritage theory, my family’s recipes and legacy,” he explained. “It was very important to me to document the story for future generations, and, of course, to make sure the recipes and methods were never lost.”

Indeed, for three generations, Davila’s BBQ in Seguin, Texas, has infused classic brisket, ribs, and sausage with Latin flavors. Davila’s goes beyond standard grilling in this guide, offering techniques for smoking, cooking directly on the embers, underground, on a spit, and more.

This is much more than a cookbook, but you’ll want to use and learn them all and keep them close. Recipes in the book include Mesquite Brisket, Vaquero Chili con Carne, Smoked Pulled Pork, Fire-Roasted Tomato, Onion, and Serrano Salsa, and thank goodness, the Davila’s delicious potato salad, which I feared they might keep secret.

We hope you enjoyed this little taste. We strongly recommend Chef Davila’s book as de rigueur for every kitchen.

Pitmasters Adrian Davila and his father, Edward Davila at the award-winning Davila’s BBQ restaurant in Seguin in 2016. Chef Davila had already started working on this book. (Photo by Angela Covo)

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The Carajillo 43 is a coffee cocktail made with Licor 43. Coffee roaster James Mireles, founder of Pulp Coffee, introduced Edible SA to the delicious after-dinner drink. (Photo courtesy)

the coffee lady LINDA BREWSTER

COFFEE COCKTAILS Linda Brewster knows coffee – the passionate coffee enthusiast founded the San Antonio Coffee Festival in 2011. Thanks to San Antonio’s growing number of outstanding local coffee roasters, brewers and coffeehouses, Ms. Brewster will share her insights on SA’s local coffee culture in this column.

C

ombining coffee and liquor is certainly nothing new, but it’s time to get reacquainted – coffee cocktails are undergoing a renaissance in San Antonio. Let’s take a look at the history of mixing liquor and coffee, explore some fun recipes and pop over to the River Walk for a few local

features.

Coffee has been brewed with water since the fifteenth century, initially gaining momentum in the Sufi monasteries of Yemen – but no one knows exactly when liquor and coffee were first blended together.

By the time the first coffeehouse opened in Venice in 1645, it seems the practice was already commonplace. To this day, Italy’s café corretto (an espresso shot “corrected” with a shot of grappa) is a staple in Italian 38

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cafes.

Spain’s carajillos (brewed coffee with brandy, lemon and cinnamon) date back to the 1700s when soldiers imbibed the concoction for a boost of courage (coraje in Spanish, hence carajillo). Irish coffee, today’s most well-known coffee cocktail, is relatively new. It wasn’t created until 1942, gaining popularity in 1952 when introduced at the Buena Vista Café in San Francisco.

Credit for the delicious Espresso Martini, easy to find at local craft cocktail bars, goes to London’s Soho Brassiere’s bartender, Dick Bradsell.

The concoction was created at the request of a supermodel in the late ‘80s who wanted a strong drink that would wake her up.

The versatility of this caffeine-infused brew makes it my go-to favorite to kick off an extended evening. If time is short, just grab a bottle of Quick Sip’s Cold-Brew Texican, locally made with Mexican Chiapas beans, and stir in a little vodka. Garnish the rim lightly with piloncillo to enhance the flavors. Using espresso instead of a refrigerated pre-made cold-brew takes a little more effort but is highly recommended.

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

ESPRESSO MARTINI Two important tips: chill the glass and use vodka from the freezer.

INGREDIENTS 1 oz. Espresso 1/2 oz. Coffee Liqueur 2 oz. Vodka DIRECTIONS Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice. Be sure to shake especially hard to create the frothy top, then use a cocktail strainer to pop in a few more air bubbles for an especially rich velvety texture. Strain into martini glass and garnish with trio of coffee beans.

RECIPE NOTES This cocktail is not overly sweet, making it a perfect apéritif. I especially enjoy San Antonio coffee roaster Caffero’s Colombian Dark Excelso to fuel this espresso shot. For the coffee liqueur, my personal recommendation is Texas-made Caffe Del Fuego, but Tia Maria does the job just fine.

After-dinner coffees present an even wider array of choices. Start

by adding a simple splash of Frangelico, Bailey’s Irish Cream or Amaretto to your evening cup. I recently discovered that Licor 43 (a Spanish liqueur made from citrus, fruit juices and 43 aromatic herbs and spices) makes an excellent accompaniment to coffee, with a dollop of whipped cream and a touch of cocoa powder.

Coffee roaster extraordinaire, James Mireles of Pulp Coffee, first introduced us to The Carajillo 43. Delicioso!

More complex coffee cocktails to explore include a couple of my favorites. Try the Presidente Coffee at Boudro’s Texas bistro on the River Walk, a beautiful blend of cappuccino (locally roasted

by KIVA Coffee Roasters), brandy and Cointreau.

For a spectacular finish, try the house specialty at Guadalajara Grill in La Villita, Willy’s Sexy Coffee. This beverage is prepared tableside over an open flame with Kahlua and tequila, a touch of cinnamon, then the coffee. Finally, the pièce de résistance is topped with vanilla ice cream – the perfect after-dinner drink and experience.

I hope this inspires you to explore the world of coffee cocktails – experiment at home using locally roasted coffee or ask a bartender to mix you up a coffee-inspired libation. Share your favorites with us at Linda@SAcoffeefest.com.

Espresso Martini (Photo by Ewan Munro)

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news from the garden sommelier Mimi’s heirloom says recipes

SUMMERTIME. SUMMER SQUASH. MEMORIAL DAY. FAMILY AND FRIENDS. STORY AND PHOTOS BY MIMI FAUBERT

This quintessential foodie is also a Food Hero at our local Central Market. Ms. Faubert is not professionally trained – she is one of those rare talents with a superior palate and natural skills.

You’ll typically find her in a kitchen, whipping up something extraordinary at home for her family or at work. And her tips (and stories) are always spot-on.

K

icking off summer with Memorial Day weekend is typically full of fun and food, and remembrances to honor the men and women who died while serving in the military.

It’s also the perfect time to share a secret hot dog idea and my recipe for simple summer squash casserole. The hot dog idea is all about Memorial Day. Someone I dearly love served in the U.S. Navy. As a young recruit, he was matched up with someone who was his polar opposite. They turned out to be yin and yang – both so very different yet deeply connected … a pair through and through, bonded for life.

Until on a mission, one was lost.

Decades later, the imprint of that loss and life still exists. It is bittersweet, and hilarious, and sometimes healing to hear stories of mischief and mayhem on and off base. Who would’ve thought that a serious penchant for mayo and jalapeños on hot dogs could be born of schoolboy mischief?

The routine went like this: Every time hot dogs were served in the mess hall, a young man from Chicago would eat his topped with mayo.

“Yin and Yang” got a kick out of bullying “Chicago” for being so gross.

At some point, the pair ended up at a Wienerschnitzel and decided to test out Chicago’s grossness. They added some jalapeños to the mayo, enjoyed it thoroughly and never shared their discovery. They continued

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to harass “Chicago” in the mess hall for eating mayo-fueled hot dogs, but off base, they secretly loved to eat their own jalapeño-mayo dogs.

The young, naval troublemaker, who grew up on a farm in New England, is now an older, civilian troublemaker of sorts. It’s rare for me to get to see him tuck into a dinner – so when I saw him devouring and reaching for seconds of my squash casserole, it made me smile.

Casserole + dairy + garden vegetables = one happy Vermonter.

Even my youngest, who proclaimed at an unusually early age that she would not even entertain the thought of eating any type of squash (or mushrooms, for that matter), chowed it down without questioning its contents. True success!

In my own life, I was never terribly fond of summer squash until my friend Tanya cooked some for dinner. We were barely 20 and living in Austin when the city was still weird and didn’t need a bumper sticker to prove it. Tanya’s yellow squash was soft and tender and mixed with butter and cheese. Delicious.

Until then, I was used to crunchy squash – what restaurant menus would label the “chef ’s vegetables.” Blech! It reminded me of the smell and texture of scraped jack-o-lantern innards. But wait, did I not have summer squash I liked before that?

Thinking back, there was an Asian summer squash I adored. In Guam, my dad built a structure for luffa vines to climb up and across.

It created a beautiful emerald canopy from which the long green squash would hang. Picked early enough, they were tender and perfect for cooking. Once they matured, the luffa was perfect for drying out and turning into natural sponges. The texture of the squash Tanya made was very much like the young luffa my mom and amà braised.

Summertime. Summer squash. Memorial Day. Family and friends.

Remember to add the pleasant memories and food.

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

MIMI’S SIMPLE SUMMER SQUASH CASSEROLE Here’s the recipe that will get them all eating squash.

INGREDIENTS 3-4 small summer squash (yellow & zucchini), washed & trimmed Creole seasoning and granulated onion powder Shredded cheese, heavy cream DIRECTIONS Thinly slice the squash into rounds. A mandolin slicer works well. Starting at either the center or the outer edge, slightly overlap the squash rounds in a single layer on the bottom of an oven-proof skillet or any oven-safe dish. Lightly season the layer with creole seasoning and onion powder, sprinkle a layer of cheese and repeat. When all the squash is laid out, drizzle a little cream over it evenly. Top with cheese and bake at 350°F until cooked through and tender. Allow to rest at least 5 minutes before serving. Feel free to garnish with fresh herbs. Enjoy!

ediblesanantonio.com

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sommelier says

GETTING CLOSURE

Corks aren’t the only way to get closure.

(Photo by Adriano Gadini)

BREAKING UP WITH CORK

P

BY JENNIFER BECKMANN CERTIFIED SOMMELIER & CSW

OP! Few words in the English language better represent onomatopoeia, a word that imitates a sound. That inimitable sound of a cork releasing from its bottle is a ‘pop’ that every wine lover cherishes. The sound denotes celebration and ‘popping bottles’ are a staple of modern party culture, music and slang. But with nearly 20 billion closures being used each year, we might need to accept that cork is not always the best material for sealing a bottle of wine.

THE CORK

Throughout history natural cork has been a nearly perfect product, making trade and transport of liquids effective and profitable. Bottled wine requires small amounts of oxygen to continue developing complex flavors and cork’s breathable nature made it the steadfast choice for winemakers. With the discovery of possible wine contamination from natural cork, it’s dominant position dropped from 95 percent market

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share in 1981 to 70 percent today. Cork producers waged a marketing war addressing issues such as age-ability, carbon footprints and even agricultural job decline to slow the steadily widening gap.

The term ‘Corked Wine’ describes a detectable fault due to a contaminated cork. A mold that infests the bark from which corks are made releases the compound Trichloroanisole 2,4,6 (TCA). About 1 in every 15 bottles are affected by this cork taint, roughly 5 percent of production. A tainted cork creates a musty scent reminiscent of wet, molding cardboard. The scent can be aggressive or slight and changes the way the wine tastes by flattening the fruit and diminishing tertiary flavors.

While ingesting TCA is not dangerous, it most certainly is unpleasant and most wineries, restaurants and retailers will exchange the wine without question.

ALTERNATIVES

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

Synthetic Corks - In the early 90’s a Seattle company named Su-

preme Cork produced one of the early credible and most widely accepted natural cork alternatives. Synthetic corks, made from plastic, still maintain the breathability and quality seal of natural cork. The new corks were met with great enthusiasm by the Australian and New Zealand wine industry at a time when their export status to the United States and Europe was surging.

Pros: The risk of TCA taint from cork is eliminated.

Cons: While glass contracts with temperature fluctuation, not all synthetic materials follow suit exposing unwanted Oxygen to the wine.

Some expert palates argue there may be a flavor transfer from the synthetic materials.

Stelvin Closures (Screwcaps) - While the screwcap is associated with contraband bottles of Boone’s Farm or Night Train, the tidy and efficient aluminum cap still found its way into boutique winemaker’s hearts worldwide. Simple and secure, the closure provides a cost-effective solution. Dr. Bryce Rankin, one of Australia’s most decorated wine researchers, compared more than 3,000 bottles with various closure types over a seven-year period and found that screwcap wines age with superior quality.

Pros: The screwcap is easy to open and requires no additional tools.

The seal allows wine to age with more freshness and has a record for preserving quality since introduced in the 1950s. Consumers are increasingly receptive to high price wines with screwcaps to protect their investment from TCA. Cons: No sex appeal … and most of us still remember Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill hangover.

varietal. As the alternative packaging market grows, more producers are using single serving sealed plastic wine glasses and even cans. Canned wine made a brave and welcome foray into the wine market in recent years, heaped with praise for its convenience.

Pros: Portable and appropriate for outdoor events, these bottle alternatives make transporting wine easy. The airtight packaging reduces the possibility of oxidation ruining your wine. Lighter weight than glass and made from recycled cardboard, this option also has a smaller carbon footprint than traditional bottles.

Cons: This packaging should be used for wines consumed very young; little aging or maturation is possible within the container. Boxed wines have a shorter shelf life than traditional bottles and should be consumed soon after purchase.

A 2017 Oxford University study confirms our auditory experience affects our perceived value of wine. Participants were asked to taste two identical wines (unknown to them) and rate the quality after hearing a cork pop and again after hearing a screwcap open. Then they rated the wines once again, but after opening the same wine in a traditional cork enclosure and a screwcap. Participants rated the quality of the corked wine 15 percent higher than the screwcap wine, although both were identical.

The lesson – don’t judge a bottle by its enclosure.

Whether seeking unconventional ways to sip wines or to staunchly defend the traditional, more wines are being produced internationally than ever. Find your dream bottle and savor its crafted artistry. Happy Popping!

GLASS STOPPERS

2017 Kuhlman Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc, Escondido Valley, TX Sourced from the unique terroir of the Mesa Vineyards in West Texas, this grape succeeds in the most challenging of vintages. The intensely aromatic nose boasts of tropical fruits, white flowers, dried herbs and candied citrus. The bracing acidity makes this the perfect pairing for salty cuisine.

The screwcap closure ensures that the wine is fresh, clean and ready for early vintage drinking. $19 at select retailers. Kuhlmancellars.com Sway Rosé, Texas High Plains (NV) Breaking with the binding tradition of glass bottles altogether, Sway Rosé is the first Texas grown rosé wine in a can. Produced from 100 percent Texas High Plains fruit, the medium bodied wine has notes of passionfruit, guava, strawberry and honeysuckle. Built to be enjoyed anywhere and anytime, the portable package includes 3 cans. $16 for a 3-pack at select retailers. Yeswecan.com.

Glass stoppers gained popularity in German and Austrian wines (having been developed first in Germany), but have been slow to gain momentum elsewhere. Designed to fit into the bottle like a flat-topped stopper, an O-ring seals the wine to the neck of the bottle making an airtight seal.

Pros: They are seldom used, have a unique appeal and allow for less risk of oxidation in the bottle than traditional synthetic corks.

Cons: They do not allow the wine to breathe, necessary for aging.

PACKAGING ALTERNATIVES (BOXES, CANS & SINGLE SERVE) The common image of the wine connoisseur evokes haughty arrogance and snobbery – especially when it comes to boxed wine. But the next generation of wine lovers embrace less traditional packaging. Boxed wine (Photo courtesy) has evolved to wines of noted quality from France, Italy, California and beyond. Consumers can now find boxed wines ranging from the traditional party size to the equivalent of individual 750 ml bottles in just about every

NO POP REQUIRED

(Photo courtesy)

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MARKET DAY AT BARBERRY HILL FARM • YUMI ECO SOLUTIONS SUMMER RECIPES • HOW CONNECTICUT RAISED THE MODERN CHICKEN

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Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 42 • July-August 2017

THE WORLD’S NEWEST VEGETABLE

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Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

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THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE urban rabbit

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local pints

Busted Sandal Brewing Company boasts nine taps on the wall of its taproom. (Photo by J. E. Jordan)

IF THE CHANCLA FITS . . .

BY J.E. JORDAN

C

onsider it a new twist on the Cinderella story. Somebody in Austin lost a sandal and that broken chancla, flattened

by Austin traffic, was the perfect fit to represent good times at Busted Sandal Brewing Company, 7114 Oaklawn Drive, right here in San Antonio.

Michael DiCicco, Busted Sandal Brewing founder, is happy to share the story – and a tour of the brewery, which celebrates its fifth anniversary this year.

A few years ago, a gaggle of home brewers departed, dejected, from their favorite Austin brewpub after learning it would soon close forever. As they walked to their car, musing over how great it would be to own a brewpub of their own, a member of the group stumbled over the hapless footwear.

“We started talking about the sandal. How did it get here, where had it been? We could imagine it going places, doing fun things,” Mr. DiCicco explained. “In Texas, people wear sandals eight to 10 months out of the year, and sandals just kind of mean you’re going somewhere to have a good time.”

When the brewers finally got around to building their dream brewery in 2011 (they opened in 2013), the name seemed natural and memorable – especially after the chunk broken out of the brewery’s logo took the shape of Texas.

They started out selling kegs. Not much later, the Busted Sandal crew canned beers to introduce the public to their lagers, concentrating on

their most popular brew, Finding Friday Mexican Lager.

Back then, the portable canning line they used was rented, and while they lost money on each can and six-pack, it turned out to be a very canny marketing move. The strategy worked.

“People would see our beer on the shelf at the supermarket or convenience store and buy it, then, when they saw it on tap at a bar, they’d say, ‘Oh, I’ve had that beer,’ and they’d order a pint,” Mr. DiCicco said.

The veteran-owned brewery now distributes to more than 300 outlets from New Braunfels to South Padre, all listed on the website’s beer locator. In San Antonio, the locator also lists supermarkets, convenience stores, liquor stores, bars, and restaurants, even noting which beers are on offer. And now, with their own canning line onsite, the cans are moneymakers, too.

Meanwhile, Busted Sandal Brewing has nine distinctive beers on tap in the taproom – two IPAs, two porters, two lagers, a Wit, a Hefeweizen and an Imperial Coconut Ale. But don’t let the Coconut Ale fool you, these brewers make an effort to locally source. This summer, look for Basil Wheat, Hoppy Apricot Wheat and Watermelon 210.

Takeaway options come in six-packs, quarts and half gallon growlers (buy theirs or bring your own). The taproom’s seating and hours are limited – for now. Construction is well underway for an additional 1200 feet of table space, 25 more taps and a deck for al fresco refreshment.

Busted Sandal Brewing Company is open 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Wednesday through Friday, noon to 10 p.m. Saturday and noon to 6 p.m. on Sunday. For updates and more information about the pet-friendly brewery, visit www.bustedsandalbrewing.com. ediblesanantonio.com

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edible San Antonio

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

Edible Sources

These purveyors offer some of the finest local, seasonal and sustainable products in the region. They also advertise in Edible San Antonio; please drop by for a free copy and shop, dine, explore and enjoy!

Alamo Ranch Farmers Market Click. Order. Receive. Enjoy.

PO Box 380058 San Antonio, TX 78268 210-446-0099 www.alamoranchfarm.market Amniotic Fluid Embolism Foundation Tango of the Vines Friday, November 2, 2018 Witte Museum San Antonio, TX tangoofthevines.com Austin Label Company Quality that sticks 1610 Dungan Lane, Suite A Austin, TX 78754 512-302-0204 austinlabel.com Don Strange of Texas catering | venues | event management 1551 Bandera Road San Antonio, TX 78228 210-434-2331 donstrange.com Dress for Success A Taste of Success Casino Night Friday, October 19, 2018 Witte Museum San Antonio, TX successfulconnections.org Festival of Flowers San Antonio’s premier gardening event Saturday, May 26, 2018 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Austin Highway Event Center San Antonio, TX safestivalofflowers.com

Fredericksburg Convention and Visitor Bureau The Texas Hill Country Texas heart. German soul.

866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

River Whey Creamery Artisanal cheese 17361 Bell N. Drive, #115 Schertz, TX 78154 210-326-1342 riverwheycreamery.com

Hill Country Food Truck Festival Benefiting the Texas Center for Wine & Culinary Arts Saturday, June 23, 2018 Luckenbach, TX luckenbachtexas.com

SA Lighthouse for the Blind & Vision Impaired Art in the Dark Tuesday, June 19, 2018 6:30 p.m. – 9 p.m.

Sheraton Gunter Hotel San Antonio, TX salighthouse.org/events

Humble House Foods Honest Food. Honest People.

Pearl Farmers Market 312 Pearl Parkway San Antonio, TX 78215 210-706-0067 humblehousefoods.com Kuhlman Cellars Old World Terroir …

New World Cuisine 18421 E. US 290 Stonewall, TX 78671 512-920-2675 kuhlmancellars.com Lick Honest Ice Creams Scoops full of Texas goodness at the Pearl 312 Pearl Parkway Building 2, Suite 2101 San Antonio, TX 78215 ilikelick.com Melissa Guerra Latin Kitchen Market melissaguerra.com

SAFILMSan Antonio Film Festival August 1-5, 2018 Tobin Center San Antonio, TX safilm.com

Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods Locations across Texas specsonline.com Tracey Maurer Photography Some of the best things happen in the kitchen San Antonio, TX 210-325-4550 tmaurerphoto.com Utility Research Garden Bamboo makes for good neighbors 1737 CR 2800 Colmesneil, TX 75938 512-626-9825 utilityresearchgarden.com

San Antonio Hispanic Chamber of Commerce America’s first hispanic chamber 200 East Grayson Street, Suite 203 San Antonio, TX 78215 210-225-0462 sahcc.org Sandy Oaks Olive Orchard Olives with a Texas accent 25195 Mathis Road PO Box 869 Elmendorf, TX 78112 210-621-0044 sandyoaks.com

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the last bite

LONG FORM WORDS AND ART BY MICHAEL SOHOCKI

L

iterature – like an omelet, or a bicycle – is a product.

As all writers surely struggle with meaning and intent to define our unique role in the world, we must also fetter over the line between art and craft.

At its most basic, craft is using a tool to create a solid, practical thing for sale. It pays the bills.

Craft is invariably built on a set of mechanical skills, physical principles, grounded firmly in the real world of hammer and nail – a learned and practiced discipline to accomplish tasks.

Art is … well, I’m putting my foot in a tank of piranhas to attempt a definition … but probably a safe starting point is to describe art as an expression of the internal world, where practicality does not apply.

Art first requires craft, as you must first have control of a language in order to communicate. Aside from the occasional momentary flash or split-second decision, most writers (like most cooks, and most bicycle makers) spend their days in the realm of craftspeople.

Once we have gained competency in our chosen set of tools, the practical needs of being human largely take over. While we may agonize with an artist’s subtlety of inflection – as in whether to follow the word “fetter” with the preposition “over” or “by” or “through” – rummaging through our toolbox and inspecting each word for its specific heft and shape and almost imperceptible shift in meaning, at the end of the day, we’ve got bills to pay, and the content needs to sell widgets.

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edible San Antonio

Nobody knows this better than an editor.

If an editor curates a collection of words (or omelets, or bicycles) that nobody wants, the ship will sink. Writers are at the mercy of their editors, but editors are at the mercy of their readership.

That means you. Perceiving yourself as a casual bystander, you pick up this magazine and read it largely unaware that the magazine (or your cell phone or tablet or laptop) is reading you. Your eyes are carving us.

The literary world is a maelstrom, inundated and in permanent overload with voices who all wish to be heard. Like an interminable game of snakes and ladders, it is impossible to trace a straight line from cause to effect here, but it can be generally acknowledged that space, time and attention all cost money and real estate. As attention fractures and spreads, editors face an ever-growing legion of competition armed with a fistful of words and a handful of photographs.

The frantic dash to gather up cheap “hits” and cling to social relevance, to pay the bills, comes at a cost. That price is exacted in intellectual depth, storytelling ability and the artistic intent that writers (and their editors) all strain to realize.

So please, from an artist to a reader, take the long way home. Give longer articles your attention. Allow writers to meander through the woods and look up through the branches, stumble through the streams and pick up the pebbles of understanding.

Your interest is the only medicine we have for a 280-character world.

THE EARLY SUMMER ISSUE

21ST ANNUAL

we’ll toast to that over 30 wineries & tasting rooms | museums & historic sites | peaches & wildflowers | German heritage | golf sophisticated shopping | festivals & events | eclectic art galleries | cycling | Hill Country cuisine | live Texas music

Saturday May 26, 2018 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.

City-Wide Plant Exchange Seminars Organic Roundtable and Much More!

Vendor information: (210) 380-3532 or (210) 240-1745

For more information, find us online at

SAFestivalofFlowers.com

$7 adults • Children under 10 free

NEW VENUE THIS YEAR!

Austin Highway Event Center 1948 Austin Highway

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FREE PARKING Co-hosted by

Indoor Garden Mall

V i s i t F re d e r i c k s b u r g T X . c o m | 8 6 6 9 9 7 3 6 0 0

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the early summer issue issue No. 28

CREATIVE CITY OF GASTRONOMY

eat. drink. think.