Scale Modeling Quarterly

Page 1

WORKING WITH LOZENGE CAMO DECALS• CASTING RESIN PARTS • AND MORE! Summer 2015

·

for scale modelers by scale modelers

A Colorful Bargain $ .LW 6R 5HDVRQDEO\ 3ULFHG :H %XLOW ,W 7ZLFH

Small Wonder

Large-scale weathering on a 1/72 scale kit USD $7.99 // CND $8.99

Tips & Tricks Found in This Issue: • Build a vignette with spare parts • Learn the art of preshading • 7DFNOH \RXU ²UVW VFUDWFKEXLOW SURMHFW

SMQmag.com Vol 1 // Issue 4

1/700 // SECTION TITLE

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summerr 2015 // SMQmag.com SMQmag.c g.c g .c .com m

FROM THE EDITOR //

Why Do You Build? With each issue, I like to offer you a point to reflect upon. It is important to occasionally reflect on anything you choose to spend your valuable free time on.

I

n my last letter, I mentioned that one way to avoid being consumed by a chase for perfection—jokingly referred to as Advanced Modeler’s Syndrome (a.k.a., AMS. Ask your doctor about your AMS symptoms today; KnobĂźld Pharmaceuticals’ Exmoderall BS may be the answer you’re looking for)—is to build to your own standard. This therefore begs the question: what is your standard, and how do you develop it? From my own experiences, creating a personal standard for how you build your models isn’t as simple DV LW DSSHDUV $W ĆƒUVW EOXVK XVLQJ WKH FRQWHVW MXGJLQJ FULWHULD FRGLĆƒHG E\ RUJDQL]DWLRQV OLNH ,306 86$ DQG AMPS might seem like a quick shortcut to your own standard. If competing in their contests is where you ĆƒQG \RXU HQMR\PHQW WKHQ \RXĹŞOO QHHG WR EH PLQGIXO RI their rules. IPMS rules ostensibly focus on basic kit construction and consistency over accuracy, while AMPS scoring gives weight to a broad range of modeling skills, some of which you may not want to concern yourself ZLWK &RQWHVWV PD\ RU PD\ QRW RĆ‚HU \RX D UHDG\ PDGH standard or, at the very least, a starting point. So where to turn next? For many modelers, especially a certain vocal Internet group, accuracy is king. After all, scale modeling inherently replicates an existing object in miniature. Still, opinions vary even on accuracy. Shapes can be critiqued, details can be researched and added, and paint colors can be tweaked and debated. Documented facts can seem few and far between and are always subject to change based on new research. So, EXLOGLQJ DQ DFFXUDWH PRGHO LV GHĆƒQLWHO\ PRUH RI DQ DUW than a science. Your artistic point of view is an important component to developing your standard. In this issue, Bryant Dunbar goes over the basics of preshading SDQHO OLQHV :KLOH D QLFH HĆ‚HFW VRPH DUJXH WKDW WKH results of this technique are overdone. But, making an artistic choice like this one is equally as important and valid as deciding which pieces of information are pertinent in your research.

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Exploring your personal philosophy of modeling.

ŠiStock.com/bhofack2

Perhaps a better question than how you build might be: for whom do you build? Endemic to our hobby are WKH DSRORJLHV ZH IHHO UHTXLUHG WR RĆ‚HU WR RWKHUVĹŞ LGHDOV I do it myself—just read through my Stearman builds in this issue. I defended my decision to ignore accuracy in favor of a paint scheme I liked, to choose an incorrect shade of paint because of my preference for acrylics, and to give the models only slight weathering. Why do we do this? If we build for ourselves, if we honor our own VWDQGDUGV ZH VKRXOGQĹŞW IHHO WKH QHHG WR DSRORJL]H for doing it our own way. And we should remember that when others share their work with us, they open themselves up to criticism, which is a very brave thing to do. We should be careful with our feedback so as not WR LPSRVH RXU RZQ VWDQGDUGV RQ WKHP ,W LV GLĆ…FXOW WR break the habit of making preemptive apologies when sharing one’s work with the community, but we should GR VRŧFRQĆƒGHQWO\ DQG JUDFLRXVO\ EXW XQKHHGLQJ RI RĆ‚HUHG DGYLFH You should regularly reevaluate your modeling philosophy. Don’t let it become static. Adjust it over time to help you grow your skills as a modeler. Perhaps most importantly, step outside of it fully once in a while. Many of us limit ourselves to not only how we build but HYHQ ZKDW ZH EXLOG RQH VSHFLĆƒF VFDOH VSHFLĆƒF VXEMHFWV certain brands, etc. In my opinion, these restrictions and exclusivities are dangerous because they keep us from H[SORULQJ WKH IXOO UDQJH RI H[SHULHQFHV WKH PRGHUQ GD\ VFDOH PRGHOLQJ KREE\ KDV WR RĆ‚HU Be true to yourself as a modeler. Take a moment to ask yourself, “Why do I build?â€? Then get to work building something you’ll be proud of with no apologies. Do this, and your enjoyment of the hobby will soar to new heights.

(',725 HGLWRU#604PDJ FRP Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

03

PUBLISHER HobbyScale Press

Contributors in this issue

EDITOR Matthew Cottrell ASSOCIATE EDITOR Anna Howland MARKETING & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stephanie Cottrell EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTOR Anne Marranca

Matthew Cottrell Revell Stermans Boeing Tour

Joe Marranca Bf 109 K-4 Scratchbuilt Fighter

Mark Wilkins Fokker D.VI

Letters to the Editor, Submissions, and Press Releases for publication consideration in SMQ should EH H PDLOHG WR HGLWRU#604PDJ FRP For Advertising Inquiries, H PDLO PDUNHWLQJ#604PDJ FRP Subscription Rates LVVXHV 86 \HDU &DQDGD \HDU ,QWHUQDWLRQDO \HDU Scale Modeling Quarterly ,661 SULQW ,661 RQOLQH

LV SXEOLVKHG TXDUWHUO\ E\ HobbyScale Press.

Tomasz Chacewicz PZL P.24

Bryant Dunbar Preshading

Steven Andreano Turret Pillbox

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ORDER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION ONLINE AT SMQmag.com

6FDOH 0RGHOLQJ 4XDUWHUO\ is a

Ryan Koschatzky Sherman Turret PUBLICATION

Scale Modeling Quarterly LV ´UVW DQG IRUHPRVW D SXEOLFDWLRQ for and by scale model builders. This means we need your help to create the content that makes SMQ shine. Modelers can contribute feature or short-subject articles, as well as our recurring Modeling Tech, Trip Report, & One for the Kids, and 6FDOH 0RGHOLQJ 3UR´OH VHFWLRQV

SEND SUBMISSIONS & STORY IDEAS TO EDITOR@SMQmag.com

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

HobbyScale Press publishes material related to the hobby of scale modeling. We are currently accepting manuscripts for books, booklets, guides, or reference material of interest to the scale modeling community. HobbyScale Press SXEOLVKHU#KREE\VFDOHSUHVV FRP %DUQDUG 6W 6DYDQQDK *$

26 BIG IMPACT This tiny PZL P.24 has a large-scale punch.

32 TANKING IT Two options for building a tank turret vignette.

06 1:1 BUILDERS

38

Take a tour of Boeing's Everett, Washington, operations.

FINDING GOLD

16

46

COLOR CAMO

GALAXY QUEST

Applying lozenge FDPRXµDJH GHFDOV

Custom cast resin parts for a Star Wars build.

$ YHQGRU URRP ´QG turns into a great build.

ON THE COVER

08 ARMY VS NAVY

Adding rigging, fuel lines, and a clear fuel gauge elevate Revell's fantastic 6WHDUPDQ 37 NLW

Adding rigging brings two Stearman builds to life.

SMQ Editor Matthew Cottrell details his dual build of Revell's small kit that hit the market in a big way.

22 PRESHADING Bryant Dunbar explores a controversial effect in scale modeling.

Boeing 777 image ©iStock.com/frog_atelier

50 MODEL SUPPORT Join East Coast modelers to raise awareness and funds to help our troops.

ADVERTISERS page 45

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

05

1/700 1/ 1/70 / 77000 // // SE SECTION S SECT ECT CTION TION IO ON TITLE TIT TIT ITLE

Full-Scale Builders The Wright Brothers’ first flight in 1903 was a scant 120 feet long. Within 66 years, a flight of nearly one million miles took the crew of Apollo 11 to the Moon and back. That same year, 1969, also marked the inaugural flight of the first wide-body Jumbo Jet, the Boeing 747. Over 230 feet in length, the 747 was nearly double the length of the Wrights’ world-changing achievement. by Matthew Cottrell

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Summer Su S Sum um u m mer me m er er 20 2 2015 0 1Future 5 // // SMQmag.com SM S MQma Q Qm ma m ag g.Aviation g.c .c .com om Center & Boeing Tour Josef Kunzler photo courtesy of15 of Flight

Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour

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n conjunction with the development of %RHLQJĹŞV HQRUPRXV FRQVWUXFWLRQ RI D new plant with unbelievable proportions was EHJXQ LQ DGMDFHQW WR 3DLQH )LHOG LQ (YHUHWW Washington. Boeing’s Everett Factory is the world’s ODUJHVW EXLOGLQJ E\ YROXPH DW RYHU PLOOLRQ FXELF IHHW ZLWK D IRRWSULQW RI QHDUO\ DFUHV 7RGD\ WKH IDFWRU\ EXLOGV QRW RQO\ WKH EXW DOVR WKH DQG WKH QHZ 'UHDPOLQHU Always fascinated by aircraft and manufacturing, my wife and I were happy to visit the Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour. :KLOH %RHLQJ KDV RĆ‚HUHG WRXUV RI WKH (YHUHWW )DFWRU\ VLQFH WKH\ SDUWQHUHG LQ ZLWK WKH QRQ SURĆƒW )XWXUH RI )OLJKW )RXQGDWLRQ WR FUHDWH a new experience for visitors. My own experience started at the Future of Flight Aviation Center. The VWDQGDUG SUH UHVHUYHG DGPLVVLRQ SULFH IRU adults in peak season) includes access to the Boeing

TRIP REPORT //

Photo courtesy of Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour

Tour and the Aviation Center. You’re advised to make your reservation in advance as we did, which turned out to be the right move since the Boeing Tour was sold out when we arrived. Even with large crowds, the Aviation Center seemed spacious, and an array of interactive exhibits covered everything from aircraft design to the composite materials used on the latest aircraft, like the 7KH $YLDWLRQ &HQWHU DOVR GLVSOD\V HQJLQHV IURP WKH DQG WKH 7KHVH H[SRVHG HQJLQHV DUH KXJH WKH V 5ROOV 5R\FH HQJLQH KDV DQ LQWDNH GLDPHWHU URXJKO\ WKH VDPH VL]H DV WKH V IXVHODJH 3HUKDSV PRVW LPSUHVVLYH WKH HQWLUH YHUWLFDO VWDELOL]HU RI D was positioned, upright, in the middle of the exhibit hall. Standing next to this massive control surface helped to SURYLGH VRPH VFDOH WR WKH VL]H RI DQ DLUFUDIW OLNH WKH usually only seen from afar or experienced from inside. While waiting for our tour to begin, we visited the Strato Deck located on the top of the Aviation Center, ZKLFK RƂHUV LPSUHVVLYH SDQRUDPLF YLHZV RI WKH IDFWRU\ Paine Field's main runway, and Boeing's Everett Delivery Center. It's a busy airport to say the least, and we ZHUH H[FLWHG WR VSRW DQ $QWRQRY $Q FDUJR SODQH RƂ ORDGLQJ SDUWV QH[W WR WKH HQG RI WKH UXQZD\ 7KH entire facility looks like a table at a model contest: airliners seem to be scattered every which way. Some FRPSOHWHG V ZDLWLQJ WR HQWHU WKH SDLQW KDQJDU ORRNHG particularly striking, still covered in their translucent green coatings that protect the aluminum skin.

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The bus stopped at several spots as we drove along the IDFH DQG ZH ZHUH XVKHUHG RĆ‚ LQWR WKH XWLOLW\ WXQQHOV WKDW UXQ PRUH WKDQ D TXDUWHU PLOH IURP WKH IURQW RI WKH IDFWRU\ WR WKH UHDU EHORZ WKH IDFWRU\ Ć„RRUV $IWHU a short walk, a freight elevator took the group up to a viewing gallery set in one of the support structures that divide the assembly bays. The gallery overlooked these ED\V RQ HDFK VLGH 2XU ĆƒUVW VWRS WKH SURGXFWLRQ line, was astonishing. The factory looks like the set of a VFL Ćƒ PRYLH ZLWK H[SRVHG VWHHO EHDPV SOXPELQJ ZLULQJ DQG PRGHUQ RĆ…FHV VHW LQWR YDULRXV SDUWV RI WKH GLYLGLQJ structures. It's almost impossible to get a sense of scale; your brain reduces it to what it considers a manageable VL]H +RZHYHU LI \RX VWRS DQG FRXQW WKH ĆƒYH RU PRUH V ODLG RXW RQ WKH Ć„RRU \RX FDQ VWDUW WR DSSUHFLDWH WKH true scale. This same experience continued as we moved RQ WR YLHZ WKH DQG SURGXFWLRQ ED\V 7KH WRXU passed by the painting hangars on the return trip, and we were lucky enough to see one open as they pulled out a IUHVKO\ SDLQWHG 7KH WRXU UHWXUQHG WR WKH $YLDWLRQ &HQWHU DQG GURSSHG XV DW WKH HQWUDQFH WR D ODUJH %RHLQJ themed gift shop, naturally. The entire Future of Flight Aviation Center and Boeing Tour experience is inspiring and overwhelming. It's one not to be missed, even if you're not an aircraft modeler. I'm glad we had the chance to tour such an impressive display of engineering and American manufacturing, as it's an experience we both won't soon forget.

THE BOEING TOUR Our tour's time at hand, we ensured that we'd left behind our cameras, phones, and other prohibited items DQG HQWHUHG D WKHDWHU WR ZDWFK D SUH WRXU YLGHR FRYHULQJ the history of the Everett Factory and the Boeing planes EXLOW WKHUH 'XH WR WKH VL]H RI WKH IDFLOLW\ WRXUV DUH shuttled to various stops around the factory in upscale tour buses. The face of the factory stretches more than half of a mile, fronted by huge, moveable hangar doors.

Photo courtesy of Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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1/48 // REVELL STEARMAN PT-17

Rigging for Two

Revell's Stearman is a great buy on a biplane.

by Matthew Cottrell

Surprises can be one of the best parts of life, but they seem to happen rarely in the scale-modeling world. Often, months of speculation, dissection, and promotion occur before a kit finally lands in stores.

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A Prismacolor Silver artist's pencil quickly adds chips and ZHDU WR KLJK WUDĆ…F DUHDV

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

ts success or failure is almost preordained, the release itself often anticlimactic. Despite this downside of the information age, however, an occasional gem will surprise and delight. Such is the case ZLWK 5HYHOOŪV VFDOH 6WHDUPDQ 37 NLW UHOHDVHG LQ Colloquially known as the 6WHDUPDQ RU .D\GHW WKH RƅFLDO name in Canadian service), thousands RI WKH %RHLQJ 6WHDUPDQ 0RGHO V ZHUH EXLOW WR VHUYH DV SULPDU\ ƄLJKW WUDLQHUV IURP WKURXJK WKH HQG RI ::,, 7KH 86 $UP\ DQG 86 Navy each had a unique designation V\VWHP IRU WKHLU 0RGHO V EDVHG on the aircraft’s use of a Lycoming 5 RU &RQWLQHQWDO 5 HQJLQH

variant (several other engines were used in much smaller quantities). )RU WKH $UP\ WKH 37 XVHG /\FRPLQJV ZKLOH WKH 37 XVHG WKH &RQWLQHQWDOV )RU WKH 861 WKH 16 DQG XVHG /\FRPLQJV ZKLOH WKH 16 DQG XVHG the Continentals.

A BIPLANE FOR ALL Revell’s brand new tooling of the Stearman received a warm welcome, KDYLQJ VXUSDVVHG WKH GHFDGHV ROG /LQGEHUJ RĆ‚HULQJ LQ WHUPV RI ĆƒW DQG engineering; it’s a fully modern kit. +RZHYHU ZLWK RQO\ SDUWV LWĹŞV QRW a complex kit, but the real Stearman wasn’t particularly complex. The kit’s engine closely matches the

Chipping on the cockpit frames is created with a sponge.

&RQWLQHQWDO 5 IRXQG RQ WKH 37 16 DQG 16 :KLOH WKH PRGHO VHHPV JHQHUDOO\ DFFXUDWH WKH NLW DQG LWV WZR PDUNLQJ FKRLFHV D \HOORZ 861 16 DQG D EOXH DQG \HOORZ $UP\ 37 DSSHDU WR EH EDVHG on modern warbird examples, with the decals even IHDWXULQJ PRGHUQ )$$ 1 QXPEHUV However, it isn’t the sheer accuracy of the kit that makes it so exciting—it’s actually just a lot of fun to build. 7KH SDUWV ĆƒW ZHOO DQG UHTXLUH RQO\ EDVLF FOHDQXS ZLWK one notable exception). The wings, tail, and fuselage have subtle strut and ribbing details molded in. Both a wooden and metal propeller are included in the kit. The struts holding the wings are solid, which make proper DOLJQPHQW QHDUO\ D JLYHQ 7KH ZHOO LOOXVWUDWHG LQVWUXFWLRQ manual even provides a rigging diagram calling out the lengths of the wires for those that would like to add them (though you’ll have to drill your own mounting holes). Perhaps the best surprise is the kit’s list price of RQO\ $W WKDW SULFH IRU VXFK D JUHDW NLW \RX UHDOO\ have no choice but to buy one. In fact, your only real choice is whether you’ll build an Army or Navy bird.

REVELL STEARMAN PT-17 // 1/48

(a colorful blue and yellow VFKHPH ZLWK SUH 0D\ URXQGHOV DQG D UHG ZKLWH DQG EOXH WDLO Ć„DVK looked great, I wanted to do one of the more FRORUIXO 861 <HOORZ 3HULO aircraft. Caracal Models The kit has nice ribbing detail. (www.caracalmodels.com) generously provided me ZLWK WKHLU 6WHDUPDQ 37 1 6 .D\GHW GHFDO VKHHW &' ZKLFK IHDWXUHV D UHG EDQGHG EOXH WDLOHG 861 1 6 LQVWUXPHQW WUDLQHU $OWKRXJK 5HYHOOĹŞV NLW LVQĹŞW DQ 1 6 WKHVH PDUNLQJV ZHUH MXVW WKH NLQG RI colorful scheme I wanted, accuracy be damned. In fact, I ran with this viewpoint throughout both builds. I wanted to have some fun building a great kit without getting bogged down by too much minutiae.

CAGEY COCKPITS Building starts with the inner framework that contains the tandem cockpits. Although I’ll sound like a broken record by the end, these parts are fantastic at this price SRLQW :KLOH WKH\ĹŞUH FOHDUO\ VLPSOLĆƒHG LQ WKH WDLO DUHD (which won’t be seen when complete), the cockpit side frames appear accurate, to which a linked twin throttle control and the four rudder pedals are added. The aft, pilot’s cockpit has a control panel on the right side; two small decals are provided for this basic representation.

HORSES OF A DIFFERENT COLOR Of course, why should I choose when they’re cheap as chips? Building two kits at once has a certain economy of scale. For example, if I’ve already thinned paint and loaded my airbrush, painting a second interior frame, instrument panel, engine, etc., doesn’t add that much WLPH :KLOH WKH NLWŪV LQFOXGHG 86 $UP\ PDUNLQJ RSWLRQ

ŠiStock.com/photosbyjim

Research revealed several small details that were easy to add, such as the fuel lines and clear fuel gauge. ,QVWUXPHQW SDQHO GHFDOV DUH DSSOLHG DQG Ć„DW coated. Gauge glass is simulated with Future.

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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1/48 // REVELL STEARMAN PT-17

NOTICEABLE NOTICE Copyright text on the tailplane can be removed.

The detailed cockpit and equipment compartment DUH HVVHQWLDOO\ KLGGHQ RQ WKH ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO

Silly Putty is a quick masking solution. It's easily positioned into tight spots with a toothpick.

10

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

The bottom framing mounts the linked control sticks and its molded in foot runners have a nicely engraved corrugation pattern. The frames may look fragile considering they have small tabs that need to be carefully removed, but they are very robust. I painted the framework in Testors Model Master Acryl Zinc Chromate Green, although it seems early planes likely had a silver topcoat. It’s easiest to paint and detail the frames while unassembled; their joints won’t be visible once the fuselage LV WRJHWKHU , Ć„DW FRDWHG WKH IUDPHV ZLWK 7HVWRUV $FU\O )ODW Clear, and once I’d picked out a few details with paint, I added some chipping to the frames around the cockpit. I held a small VTXDUH RI VSRQJH ZLWK WZHH]HUV DQG GLSSHG LW LQWR 9DOOHMR 0RGHO $LU 6LOYHU , EORWWHG RĆ‚ WKH H[FHVV DQG GDEEHG WKH VSRQJH RQWR KLJK WUDĆ…F DUHDV 7KH HĆ‚HFW ZDV UHDVRQDEOH although it was less prominent on the rounded tubes of the IUDPH WKDQ LW XVXDOO\ DSSHDUV RQ D ZLGHU Ć„DWWHU VXUIDFH VXFK as the seats, which received the same treatment. I augmented the sponge chipping with a Prismacolor Silver pencil. , GLG VRPH WHVW ĆƒWWLQJ DQG GLVFRYHUHG WKH VHDWV FRXOG EH OHIW out until after the fuselage was painted, so I assembled the frames for both aircraft and turned my attention to the fuselage halves. The halves are molded with integrated cabane struts DQG RQH VLGH KDG D PROGHG RQ WDLOZKHHO 7KHVH DWWDFKPHQWV are robust against general handling, but be careful not to exert too much pressure on them because they can break. During P\ EXLOGV , QHDUO\ NQRFNHG RĆ‚ D VWUXW DQG D WDLOZKHHO 1HLWKHU SDUW IXOO\ VKHDUHG RĆ‚ DQG ERWK ZHUH VXFFHVVIXOO\ UH VHFXUHG with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, but you’ll want to avoid making more work for yourself. The inner fuselage contains some wonderful ribbing. From my online research, the inner fuselage, which is the actual fabric covering stretched over the ribbing, was a raw fabric with a nearly clear dope, so I used Tamiya Deck Tan lightened with Flat White for a raw textile ORRN $V WKH ULEELQJ ZRXOG EH DOPRVW LQYLVLEOH RQ WKH ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO , FKHDWHG D ELW E\ GDEELQJ P\ ĆƒQJHUWLS LQWR JUDSKLWH powder and rubbing it gently along the raised ribbing around the cockpits to give it a slight metallic sheen. The ribbing likely matched the framework’s corrosion control painting.

REVELL STEARMAN PT-17 // 1/48 the fuselage to aid in the process (covered in detail later). The inner frame and ĆƒUHZDOO KDYH SHJV DQG WDEV to positively position them within the fuselage, making WKH DVVHPEO\ D EUHH]H $ small amount of cleanup DQG D WLQ\ DPRXQW RI ĆƒOOHU smoothed the joints on the top and bottom with little HĆ‚RUW

The US Army Stearman has its yellow tail SDLQWHG ĆƒUVW

TURTLE DECK

A knife tip creates a pilot mark for drilling. Blue tack stabilize the wing to keep the bit from easily breaking.

BODY WORK

Next, the aluminum cockpit cover, or turtle deck, is added. The two instrument panels mount between tabs on the cover’s underside. The panels are basic, as on the real trainer, featuring a few raised rings and knobs representing the instruments. A decal is provided that covers the face of the panel. It didn’t want to fully lie down over the panel’s raised features, although I achieved an acceptable result with several applications RI 0LFUR 6RO VRIWHQLQJ VROXWLRQ )ODW FRDWLQJ WKH GHFDO and picking out the gauges with a toothpick dipped in Future (currently branded as Pledge FloorCare Multi 6XUIDFH )LQLVK UHDOO\ LPSURYHG WKH ĆƒQDO ORRN

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Before trapping the cockpit and framework between the fuselage halves, I added the ĆƒUH H[WLQJXLVKHU WR WKH OHIW fuselage half. It was accessible from the exterior through a prominently marked red hatch. I painted the forward area of the inner fuselage Zinc Chromate Green, as these areas appeared to be metal, not fabric. The ĆƒUHZDOO LQVHUWV DW WKH IURQW of the fuselage and is called out as being steel in color. I painted the exterior engine side Alclad II Steel, while I continued with ZC Green on the inner side. Finally, as I was planning to rig my aircraft, I drilled out several holes in

Several parts are added to the fuselage halves to complete the body. First, the instructions called for WKH KRUL]RQWDO DQG YHUWLFDO VWDELOL]HUV WR EH DGGHG $V both of my chosen schemes featured rudders with multiple colors, I chose to OHDYH YHUWLFDO VWDELOL]HUV RĆ‚ until the end because test ĆƒWWLQJ VKRZHG WKH\ ZRXOG install tightly. I did install the KRUL]RQWDO VWDELOL]HUV ZKLFK were to be painted yellow, as the masking work for the Army aircraft would be easy and no masking was needed RQ WKH 861 YHUVLRQ ,Q what’s probably the oddest part of the kit, the underside of the left elevator features a raised copyright notice. It’s somewhat annoying to remove while preserving the simulated ribbing, but it’s ultimately a small price to pay for a nice kit. Before FHPHQWLQJ WKH VWDELOL]HU WR the body, I drilled out the necessary rigging holes, but be careful— it’s easy to drill fully through the thin parts, and the holes do not align WRS WR ERWWRP

1/48 // REVELL STEARMAN PT-17

7KH WXUWOH GHFN RƂHUHG DQ RSSRUWXQLW\ IRU VRPH added details. Although not shown on Revell’s rigging guide, four wires (a pair on each side) run from the upper wing, attaching just inside of the forward cabane struts, WR WKH GHFN DWWDFKLQJ MXVW RƂ WKH FHQWHUOLQH RQ HDFK side. In addition, fuel lines from ports on the underside of the upper wing run down each forward cabane strut, turning into the turtle deck aft of the engine. The kit actually replicates the mounting tabs for these lines on the struts, so it makes sense to add them. I drilled out the needed hole on each side of the deck.

SMALL TOUCHES Added fuel lines and painted details enhance the basic kit.

HIDDEN GEMS %HORZ WKH IXVHODJH D RQH SLHFH PROGLQJ IHDWXULQJ WKH lower portion of the engine’s equipment bay and the inner halves of the landing gear struts is attached. The struts ZLOO QHHG VRPH ĆƒOOLQJ DQG VDQGLQJ WR FUHDWH D VHDPOHVV look, but it’s the only major seam work required during the build. Revell includes some very nice framework, a radiator, and an exhaust pipe for the equipment bay IRUZDUG RI WKH ĆƒUHZDOO 7KLV GHWDLO DORQJ ZLWK GHWDLOV added to the rear of the engine’s mounting plate, will be fully hidden by the side cowlings and engine. It might EH SRVVLEOH WR OHDYH WKH VLGH FRZOLQJ RĆ‚ RU ORRVH LI \RX ZDQWHG WR VKRZ RĆ‚ WKLV DUHD EXW LWĹŞV QRW LQGLFDWHG LQ WKH instructions. That said, it seems as if all of the parts, with WKH H[FHSWLRQ RI WKH FRZO VXSSRUW SDUW FRXOG EH OHIW out in order to expedite the build.

WING WORKING Diverting from the instructions, I skipped adding the various detail parts to the body (windscreens, air scoops, etc.) and the assembly of the engine, moving on to ready the wings for paint along with the body. Typically, biplane kits can be challenging to align, as the wings, fuselage, cabane struts (connecting the upper wing to the fuselage), and interplane struts (connecting the upper and lower wings together) must all come together squarely. Revell has overcome this alignment challenge by molding the cabane struts into position on the fuselage while the wings are engineered with wide, solid attachment points to mate with the struts. This combination makes for a QHDUO\ IRROSURRI ĆƒQDO DVVHPEO\ RI WKH ZLQJV DQG ERG\ and it also allows for the assembly of the upper wings and interplane struts to happen after painting. With test ĆƒWWLQJ LW EHFDPH FOHDU WKDW WKH ORZHU ZLQJ FRXOG EH OHIW RĆ‚ GXULQJ SDLQWLQJ DV ZHOO LWĹŞV D WLJKW ĆƒW

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

EZ DOES IT Rigging is added with EZ Line, far from an easy task.

Before I assembled the wing surfaces, I wanted to drill DOO RI P\ ULJJLQJ KROHV , KDQG WXUQHG DQ DSSUR[LPDWHO\ VL]HG FDUELGH ELW LQWHQGHG IRU D URWDU\ WRRO WR create my holes. The bit was very fragile and I broke a few, so I tacked the wing down with blue tack to avoid any lateral motion. The stubs of the broken bits actually PDGH HĆ‚HFWLYH UHDPHUV IRU FOHDQLQJ RXW WKH KROHV With a few exceptions, the plastic does not have marks identifying the locations where you’ll need to drill your rigging holes. The included rigging guide in the instructions shows the general point where the lines attach, but I felt it was too vague to be useful. Therefore, I spent a lot of time combing through online SKRWRV WR ĆƒQG UHDOO\ JRRG FORVH XSV RI PRVW RI WKH attachment points. Based on the photos, I used the tip of a fresh hobby knife blade to gently create a pilot mark for the bit to start in. While not perfectly even, most of the holes came out close enough. This is certainly a “measure twice, cut onceâ€? type of job, so take your time DQG FRQĆƒUP \RXU ORFDWLRQV EHIRUH \RX GULOO While drilling the wings, I also drilled out the fuel ports on the underside of the upper wing to allow me to add the fuel lines I’d already drilled holes for on the turtle deck. I used reference photos as a guide to

PARALLEL LINES The mask's spacing for the instrument trainer bands is set by using a ruler.

ensure that I made the holes at the correct angle, facing the correct direction (forward). Finally, next WR WKH PROGHG LQ UHDUYLHZ PLUURU I drilled out a hole (using a marked spot on the surface) so that I could add the visual fuel gauge that hangs down from the upper wing. I created the thin, transparent gauge by stretching clear sprue over a candle. After the wing was painted, I cut DQ DSSURSULDWHO\ VL]HG VHFWLRQ DQG attached it into the hole.

THE YELLOW BLUES With the holes in place, I cemented WKH ZLQJ VXUIDFHV WRJHWKHU DQG ĆƒOOHG the seams. On the inside of one of the wings there was some black printed copyright text I left in place, which would cause trouble shortly. I then proceeded to mask the aircraft. I used Silly Putty to plug the engine bay and the cockpits, being sure to leave the backrest portions of the turtle deck exposed to receive paint. I used blue tack to secure the body to wooden handling sticks and plug the lower fuselage opening. My original painting plan was to lightly key the white plastic’s surface with JULW VDQGSDSHU DQG VNLS SULPLQJ the Stearman since I wanted a white base for the yellow paint. I sprayed WKH ZLQJV ĆƒUVW DQG LW TXLFNO\ EHFDPH apparent that the dark area created by the black text (again, on the inside, not the exterior surface) would

Before adding the upper and lower wings, cabane strut rigging is added, windscreens and seats are installed, and paint work is completed. Tamiya tape is used to keep the wings and interplane struts square while drying.

show through even several coats of yellow. Discouraged, I used Mr. 6XUIDFHU WKLQQHG ZLWK lacquer thinner, and sprayed through my airbrush, as a primer coat. While the light gray Mr. Surfacer blocked the irregularity from the black text, when I applied my yellow paint (Model Master Acryl Chrome Yellow) it changed the color from a yellow with a hint of orange to a much more lemon shade. At this point, I primed the models once again, this time with my trusty Tamiya Fine Surface Primer White, ZKLFK ZRUNHG IDQWDVWLFDOO\ 7KH 86 Army’s plane received only yellow tail surfaces while the wings and 861 ELUG ZHUH SDLQWHG \HOORZ DOO over (be sure to prime and paint WKH YHUWLFDO VWDELOL]HUV DQG WKH 1DY\ bird’s interplane struts in the same manner to ensure consistent color). I added a coat of Future over the GULHG \HOORZ SDLQW DQG PDVNHG RƂ the Army bird’s tail surfaces, then sprayed the body and interplane VWUXWV LQ 0RGHO 0DVWHU )RUG *0

Engine Blue. I chose this color, which seemed a bit too dark, because the closest match to the standard blue, Model Master True Blue, is only available in enamel (not to be confused with the Acryl True Blue Pearl). Restored Stearmans run the full spectrum of blues, from dark to turquoise, so I’m not unhappy with the color I ended up with for this IXQ EXLOG 0RYLQJ EDFN WR WKH 861 trainer, I masked the wings and body to apply the red instrument trainer stripes. These measure three feet in UHDO OLIH RU WKUHH TXDUWHUV RI DQ LQFK LQ VFDOH %DVHG RQ WKH &DUDFDO Models’ diagram, I found the center of the wing stripes to be basically halfway between the centerline and wingtip, and placed the body strip by referencing a hatch handle on the turtle deck. I used a ruler to ensure consistent spacing between the Tamiya Tape masks on the wings and ERG\ 8VLQJ 0RGHO 0DVWHU ,QVLJQLD Red, I sprayed the stripes, staying perpendicular to the surface to avoid any overspray creeping under the Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

13

1/48 // REVELL STEARMAN PT-17

edges of the tape. Once the masks were removed, I gave ERWK PRGHOV D ĆƒQDO FRDW RI )XWXUH WR VHDO WKH SDLQWZRUN

WIRES AND WINGS With primary painting complete, I wanted to complete VRPH RI WKH ĆƒQDO DVVHPEO\ VWHSV EHIRUH WKH XSSHU ZLQJ was attached. On the upper wing, I picked out the fuel ports and the mirror face with Model Air Silver on a toothpick. I removed the Silly Putty masks from the ERG\ DQG SDLQWHG WKH FRFNSLW VXUURXQGV ZLWK 9DOOHMR Model Color Brown Leather, sealing it by brushing on 7HVWRUV $FU\O 6HPL *ORVV &OHDU , EUXVK SDLQWHG WKH framework on the small windscreens and used Testors &OHDU 3DUWV *OXH WR DWWDFK WKHP 7KH 861 6WHDUPDQ KDG silver landing gear strut fairings, which I painted using Model Air Silver. The thin black trim between the body DQG JHDU VWUXW IDLULQJV ZDV DGGHG ZLWK D VL]H EODFN pen. I painted the upper equipment bay cowling seam with Tamiya NATO Black. I added my fuel lines, made from thin lead wire, to the body; they were attached to the hole in the turtle deck, and then to the tabs on the cabane struts. Finally, I needed to install the lower wing before adding the upper wing and rigging. I added WKH DQWL VNLG ZDONZD\ GHFDOV DW WKH ZLQJ URRWV EHIRUH attaching the wing to the fuselage. The lower wing slots into position, and the seam between the fuselage and the wing is very tight, however, I used Tamiya tape to hold the lower wing at the correct camber while drying. It was time to tackle the rigging. I chose to use Berkshire Junction EZ Line (Fine Black), an elastic thread. Helpfully, Revell’s rigging guide provides templates for cutting the rigging wires to length. Starting with the cross braces between the cabane struts, which used mounting tabs molded in place instead of holes I had drilled, I UHDOL]HG WKDW HYHQ ZLWK (= /LQH WKLV ZRXOG EH D FKRUH , XVHG D SDLU RI ;XURQ 7ZHH]HU 1RVH 3OLHUV WR hold one end of a wire cut to length, dabbed the end with superglue, and touched it to the mounting point. With no WHQVLRQ RQ WKH ZLUH LW KHOG ĆƒUP TXLFNO\ , WKHQ VWUHWFKHG the other end of the wire towards its mounting point and trimmed it so that it was slightly shorter than the span. This meant the wire would stay taught, but it was also under tension when I attached it. Therefore, I applied superglue accelerator to the attachment point. Once again, I grabbed the free end of the wire with the pliers, added a drop of superglue to the end, and touched the wire to the attachment point. Even with the accelerator,

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

the bond takes a few moments, and unsteady hands or pressure when releasing the wire from the pliers can disturb the curing bond. 8VLQJ EDVLFDOO\ WKH VDPH LQLWLDO SURFHGXUH , DGGHG my wires to the upper wing before attaching it to the body. The holes help somewhat, but on average, each connection took almost two attempts. I used a broken bit to ream out any superglue residue between attempts. 6WLOO RQFH , KDG D UK\WKP WKLQJV SLFNHG XS , ZDV VXUH to give a gentle tug on each wire to make sure they were secure before adding the wing to the body. I added the interplane struts to the lower wing, allowing them to dry for a short while, then added a touch of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement into each receiver on the upper wing before joining it as evenly as possible to the eight struts. The quality engineering of the kit ensures that it’s a positive connection, but once again I used Tamiya tape to hold everything square while the cement dried. Now I had a gaggle of loose wires hanging down from the upper wing. Working from the inside out, I VORZO\ SLHFHG WKH SX]]OH WRJHWKHU $JDLQ LW VHHPHG OLNH , averaged two attempts for each connection. Working in short bursts over several hours seemed to keep jitters to D PLQLPXP 7KH HĆ‚RUW LV FOHDUO\ ZRUWK WKH VWUXJJOH LQ WKH end, and this kit really seems to be an ideal platform for D ĆƒUVW ULJJLQJ DWWHPSW

ENGINE AT LAST Painting, rigging, and minor assembly done, my kits ZHUH VWLOO PLVVLQJ HQJLQHV 7KH &RQWLQHQWDO 5 LV assembled from four components, plus a propeller and retaining ring. For variety, I chose to use the wooden SURSHOOHU RQ WKH 861 1 6 ZKLOH WKH 37 ZRXOG JHW WKH PHWDO XQLW 5HYHOO SURYLGHV ZRRG JUDLQ GHFDOV IRU WKH IRXU IDFHV RI WKH WZR EODGHG ZRRGHQ SURSHOOHU Although a great concept, they don’t quite fully cover the HQWLUH SURS ,Q DQ HĆ‚RUW WR PDNH OHPRQDGH RXW RI OHPRQV , XVHG VHYHUDO EURZQ 0RGHO &RORU SDLQWV WR ĆƒOO LQ WKH

TAILS AND MARKINGS

Caracal Models decals provided all of the markings for the USN N2S. The US Army PT-17 used a combination of Caracal and kit decals.

JDSV 2QFH )XWXUH FRDWHG DOWKRXJK QRW D JUHDW PDWFK from a foot away the propeller looks good enough, but you’ll likely get better results hand painting the prop and creating wood grain with oil paints. The four motor pieces assemble into a very convincing XQLW , IRXQG WKH ULQJ RI SXVK URGV SDUW YHU\ GLƅFXOW to remove from the sprue without resulting damage. 7KH H[KDXVW VKURXG SDUW DSSHDUV WR EH DOXPLQXP on the real aircraft, so I used Alclad II Aluminum to paint it, then picked out the exhaust pipes with Model Master Gunmetal. The engine crankcase and cylinders DUH PROGHG LQ RQH SLHFH , DLUEUXVKHG D FXVWRP EOXH gray mix of Tamiya paint onto the engine, and then hand painted the individual cylinders with Tamiya NATO Black. I then trapped the painted propeller in the engine crankcase with its plastic ring, and I sandwiched the push rods, exhaust manifold, and exhaust shroud WRJHWKHU $V PHQWLRQHG WKH UHDU RI HQJLQH DVVHPEO\ has several detail parts, although they cannot be seen RQFH WKH HQJLQH LV LQVWDOOHG VR WKH\ FDQ EH OHIW RƂ LI you so desire. The engine assembly easily keys into place with the right orientation on the front of the Stearman.

Each aircraft’s tail was masked and painted along with WKH SODQHV 7KH 861 ELUG KDG LWV UXGGHU SDLQWHG EOXH ZKLOH WKH VXSSRUW UHPDLQHG \HOORZ 7KH FRORUIXO ĆƒQ Ć„DVK found on the Army’s aircraft was provided as a decal, so I left the underlying white primer exposed to ensure bright FRORUV DQG DYRLG EOHHG WKURXJK ZKLOH SDLQWLQJ RQO\ WKH yellow portion of the tail. I applied the appropriate decals EHIRUH LQVWDOOLQJ WKH WDLOV 2QFH LQ SODFH WKH ĆƒQDO ULJJLQJ wires on the top of the tail were installed The Caracal Models decals, reviewed in full at 604PDJ FRP SURYHG D JUHDW DGGLWLRQ WR WKH NLW DOORZLQJ PH WR FUHDWH WKH FRORUIXO 86 1DY\ 6WHDUPDQ , ZDQWHG Printed by Microscale, the decals were appropriately thin and settled down very nicely with Microscale’s own Micro Set and Micro Sol products. I was pleased that WKHUH ZDV QR UHDO EOHHG WKURXJK RQ WKH ZKLWH VHFWLRQV RI the decals. Caracal’s set will fully mark one aircraft, but I used some of the sheet’s remaining decals, augmented with the kit decals, to mark my Army Stearman as well. I’m happy to see aftermarket decals for the Stearman, and I hope to see a few more of the colorful schemes in the future. I wanted my Stearmans to appear shiny and new, so I GLGQĹŞW DSSO\ DQ\ ZHDWKHULQJ WR WKH JORVV\ )XWXUH FRDWHG ĆƒQLVKHV )LQDOO\ , SDLQWHG WKH ZKHHO KXEV ZLWK $OFODG II Aluminum and painted the tires Tamiya NATO Black, installed them onto the model, and called the project GRQH (YHQ LI ELSODQHV RU VFDOH NLWV DUH QRW \RXU normal area of interest, you may want to give this model a go. Revell’s Stearman is easy (especially if you skip the rigging), detailed, fun, and cheap. What more could you want in a modeling project?

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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Concealed With Colors $SSO\LQJ /R]HQJH &DPRXµDJH 'HFDOV by Mark Wilkins

I have a large collection of 1/48 scale WWI warbirds by various manufacturers. One of the challenges is finding interesting aircraft for which few or no kits exist—enter the wonderful world of eBay!

16

6FDOH 0RGHOLQJ 4XDUWHUO\ Scale Sca S ale e Modeling Mo M odel de eling ing in ng Quarterly Qu Q uart artterl ar ter erlly Su S Sum Summer um mme mer m er 20 2 2015 2015 604PDJ FRP 015 15 // SMQmag.com SMQ SM SMQm Qma ma ag. g.c g .ccom m

EDUARD SECTION FOKKER TITLE D.VI //// 1/700 1/48

Y

RX FDQ RIWHQ ĆƒQG PDQ\ RXW RI SURGXFWLRQ NLWV RQ eBay and sometimes for a mere fraction of their cost when they were in production. Such was the case with the (GXDUG VFDOH )RNNHU ' 9, 7KLV is a particularly intriguing aircraft, as it clearly marked Anthony Fokker’s GHVLJQ WUDQVLWLRQ IURP WKH 'U WR DUJXDEO\ WKH JUHDWHVW ĆƒJKWHU RI WKH ZDU WKH ' 9,, 7KH ' 9, KDV HOHPHQWV RI ERWK WKH ' 9,, DQG WKH 'U which makes it a truly interesting aircraft and a great subject for a model. Perhaps one of the most challenging aspects of this aircraft, and indeed any German plane built DIWHU $SULO RI LV WKH XVH RI OR]HQJH FDPRXĆ„DJH <RX FDQ WU\ WR KDQG SDLQW LW DQG HĆ‚HFWLYHO\ GULYH yourself insane, or you can simply tackle the project using large decals. 7KH OR]HQJH GHFDOV WKDW FRPH ZLWK the kit are inaccurate with regards to color. Based on my research and observations of original aircraft, there is really only one choice: Aviattic decals. This company has

really gotten the colors and patterns right to my eye, but the proof is LQ WKH SXGGLQJ 1RW RQO\ DUH WKH\ accurate in color and composition, but also they are very easy to apply, as we shall see.

THE KIT These early Eduard kits are interesting but are a mixed bag. On the one hand, you get some very nice components, such as resin cast machine gun breeches, a pewter engine, photoetch (PE) SDUWV DQG D FRPSOHWH VHW RI OR]HQJH decals (albeit, inaccurate). On the other hand, Eduard really hadn’t gotten their plastic molding down— especially when compared to their later kits. Most of the parts have JHQHURXV DPRXQWV RI ƄDVK DQG most of the sprues feature thick attachment points to the parts, making cleanup somewhat time consuming but, overall, not bad. Just take extra care when removing parts from the sprues, as often a sprue cutter will creep down towards the part and damage it. It’s best with

Aviattic decals (www.aviattic. co.uk) are used in place of the kit's inaccurate lozenges.

The wings are used as a template to cut a set of lozenges slightly larger than required.

Kit Used Eduard

Fokker D.VI 6FDOH 6WRFN

$ EXĆ‚ EDVH FRDW JLYHV WKH GHFDOV the appropriate color tone.

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well. The fuselage halves require a good amount of FOHDQXS DQG ĆƒW WRJHWKHU ĆƒQH EXW WKHUH DUH QR DOLJQPHQW pins and sockets, so the advantage here is you can sand both mating surfaces on a tool bed to ensure a perfect, JDS IUHH VHDP 6LQFH ZH DUH PRGHOLQJ D )RNNHU , FKRVH WR OR]HQJH FDPR WKH LQVLGH ZDOOV RI WKH FRFNSLW DV \RXĹŞOO see this behind the cockpit framing. Not surprisingly, WKH WDLO IHDWKHUV ZHUH KHDYLO\ Ć„DVKHG EXW HDV\ HQRXJK to clean up.

LOZENGES

The wings and Ć„\LQJ VXUIDFHV feature a lighter colored pattern on the undersides. Pay attention to which side is up!

moldings like these to cut the part free well back from WKH DWWDFKPHQW SRLQW DQG QLEEOH WKH VSUXH RĆ‚ D OLWWOH ELW at a time.

AIRFRAME The wings are molded in three pieces for the top, and four for the bottom. They feature fully molded wingtips, rib articulation, and undercambering on the bottom. 2QFH WKH Ć„DVK LV UHPRYHG WKH\ JR WRJHWKHU UHDVRQDEO\

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

, FKRVH WR OR]HQJH WKH ZLQJV ĆƒUVW VR , VWDUWHG E\ DVVHPEOLQJ WKH ZLQJV VDQGLQJ DQG ĆƒOOLQJ DV QHFHVVDU\ , WKHQ SDLQWHG WKHP ZLWK D EXĆ‚ DFU\OLF SDLQW WR VHUYH DV D IRXQGDWLRQ IRU WKH OR]HQJH GHFDOV WKH\ DUH WUDQVOXFHQW DQG ZKDWHYHU FRORU LV EHQHDWK WKHP ZLOO DĆ‚HFW WKHLU ĆƒQDO coloring. This allows you to tweak the coloring to your tastes with your base color. After painting, I sprayed the wings with gloss lacquer to aid adhesion of the decals. I also drilled interplane and cabane attachment points because these tiny dimples marking their location would EH GLĆ…FXOW WR VHH DIWHU WKH GHFDOV ZHUH RQ , OLNH WR VWDUW ZLWK WKH ERWWRPV ZKHQ GRLQJ OR]HQJHV VR , SODFH D ZLQJ SDQHO RQ WKH VKHHW RI OR]HQJHV DQG FXW RXW D SLHFH WKDW ZLOO FRYHU WKH VXUIDFH ZLWK DERXW š excess around all sides. Next, I wet the backing of the SDSHU XVLQJ DQ DWRPL]HU ZDLW D IHZ PLQXWHV XQWLO WKH water has soaked into the paper, then hit it again and wait a few minutes more. At this point, I test the decal to see that it moves easily. I apply Micro Set to the panel DQG FDUHIXOO\ VOLGH MXVW HQRXJK RI WKH GHFDO RĆ‚ RI WKH paper to allow it to grab onto the wing panel. Then, using P\ ĆƒQJHU WR VHFXUH WKH SRUWLRQ RI WKH GHFDO RQ WKH ZLQJ I gently slide the paper backing out and away, tamping GRZQ WKH GHFDO XVLQJ P\ IUHH ĆƒQJHUV DQG WKXPE One of the nice things about Aviattic decals is that WKH\ DUH VWURQJ 7KH GHFDO ĆƒOP KDV D VOLJKW HODVWLFLW\ which makes pulling them down on compound curves possible. They simply won’t crack and fall apart. I like to XVH D PRLVWHQHG 4 WLS WR ZRUN RXW WKH DLU EXEEOHV DQG really get the decals tamped down to the wing’s surface. I also make sure to cut a few relief slits into the decal where the forward part of the wingtip meets the leading edge; this allows the decal to seat properly. When you DUH VDWLVĆƒHG WKH GHFDO LV ĆƒUPO\ GRZQ DQG DGKHUHG VHW LW DVLGH WR GU\ RYHUQLJKW 2QFH WKH OR]HQJHV DUH WKRURXJKO\ GU\ \RX FDQ ĆƒQLVK WKH DSSOLFDWLRQ E\ WULPPLQJ RU

EDUARD FOKKER D.VI // 1/48

scraping the excess decal from the parts. Any areas that KDYH FRPH ORRVH FDQ EH UH DGKHUHG XVLQJ VRPH WKLQQHG white glue or Microscale Micro Kristal Klear. The decaling process continues by covering all remaining wing and tail surfaces in a similar fashion. The fuselage requires a little bit of planning, starting with LQWHUQDO OR]HQJHV EHIRUH LQVWDOOLQJ WKH FRFNSLW DVVHPEO\ and then gluing the halves together. Planning ahead allows items like the forward turtle deck to be glued in SODFH RQFH \RXĹŞYH DWWDFKHG WKH DPPXQLWLRQ PDJD]LQH $IWHU ,ĹŞG ĆƒOOHG VFUDSHG DQG VDQGHG WKH IXVHODJH , SDLQWHG LW ZLWK WKH VDPH EXĆ‚ FRORU XVHG RQ WKH ZLQJV ĆƒQLVKHG ZLWK D JORVV FRDW Once the base coat was thoroughly dry, I began E\ XVLQJ WKH OLJKWHU OR]HQJHV IRU WKH XQGHUVLGH RI WKH fuselage just like on the wings. To ensure good adhesion, , IROGHG DERXW š RI OR]HQJH GHFDO RYHU DQG RQWR WKH sides of the fuselage. When dry, I carefully trimmed the

Leaving a small overlapping edge on the fuselage decals ensures good adhesion. Any excess can be trimmed.

decal as close to the edge of the fuselage as I could. Next, , DSSOLHG D VLGH SDQHO RI OR]HQJHVŧUHPHPEHU WKH VHDPV LQ WKH SULQWHG OR]HQJHV UXQ SDUDOOHO WR WKH ORQJHURQV RI the fuselage. I did this for both sides and allowed it to dry completely. The top panels, ailerons, and bottom of the landing gear spreader airfoil completed the work.

RIB TAPE The rib tape decals that came with the kit were the wrong color as well, so I discarded them and made my own. All you need to do is take a piece of clear inkjet decal paper and simply paint the color you desire onto WKH SDSHU , XVHG D VDOPRQ SLQN DQG D OLJKW FRUQĆ„RZHU EOXH 8VLQJ D PHWDO UXOHU DQG VKDUS KREE\ NQLIH , ZDV able to cut thin strips from the painted decal paper. These strips applied just like any other decal: I soaked them and applied them to the wings.

ENGINE, GUNS & STRUTS $IWHU ĆƒUVW FRDWLQJ WKH SHZWHU HQJLQH FDVWLQJ ZLWK D black wash, I attached the PE detail parts and cemented

The lozenge patterns were printed onto the fabric to save time and weight, thus the pattern repeats on the fabric sides of the cockpit.

The completed cockpit and sidewall detail can be installed once the lozenge decals are in place and sealed.

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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1/48 // EDUARD FOKKER D.VI

WKH HQJLQH WR WKH ĆƒUHZDOO 8VLQJ 3( SDUWV , EXLOW WKH Spandau machine guns and gave them an aluminum base coat. When dry, I applied a black wash over this to enhance details. To avoid damage, it’s best to install the machine guns after the wings and struts have been DVVHPEOHG 7KH OR]HQJH GHFDOV GRQĹŞW FRYHU WKH HQWLUH airframe, so I painted the cowling and forward portion of the turtle deck olive green. I mixed a lighter version RI WKH ROLYH E\ DGGLQJ D OLWWOH EXĆ‚ WR LW WR JHW WKH GHVLUHG color, and painted the interplane, cabane, and landing gear struts. Finally, I painted the rudder white.

ASSEMBLY Assembling wings on a biplane is always a little tricky, DV WKH WRS ZLQJ Ć„RDWV RQ D VHULHV RI VSLQGO\ LQWHUSODQH and cabane struts. To make this easier, you really ought to either buy or make yourself a jig to hold the wings ĆƒUPO\ ZKLOH \RX ĆƒW WKH YDULRXV VWUXWV 2Q DLUFUDIW ZLWK many struts, like a SPAD or a bomber, it becomes almost PDQGDWRU\ ,I \RXU SODQV FRPH ZLWK D VFDOH SURĆƒOH drawing, you can pick out the spacing from these. If not, you’ll need to select one set of struts and use these as a guide to approximate the spacing of the top and bottom wings. It’s more important that the wings are perfectly DOLJQHG WKDQ KDYLQJ HYHU\ VWUXW ĆƒW SHUIHFWO\ \RX FDQ DOZD\V VFUDWFKEXLOG RU SDUH GRZQ RĆ‚HQGLQJ VWUXWV WR ĆƒW the wings. I like to begin by attaching the bottom wings to the fuselage, which will serve as a foundation for the rest of the assembly. If not using a jig, my next step is to cement the interplane struts to the lower wings. I make sure they are plumb and allow them to dry completely. Next, , WHVW ĆƒW WKH XSSHU ZLQJV WR VHH LI WKH VWUXWV OLQH XS ZLWK WKH SUH GULOOHG KROHV 8VLQJ VFUDSV RI ZRRG , WKHQ EORFN up the fuselage and wings to ensure accuracy while the FHPHQW GULHV , WKHQ ĆƒW WKH IRUZDUG FDEDQHV IROORZHG by the rest of them, to the fuselage. After this assembly had dried, I installed the landing gear struts, airfoil spreader, and the tail skid. I assembled the tail feathers, taking care to make sure they were aligned UHODWLYH WR WKH ZLQJV 7KH ĆƒQDO VWHS ZDV to add details such as the guns, wheels, engine, cowling, and propeller. 7KH FDUHIXO DSSOLFDWLRQ RI WKH OR]HQJH FDPRXĆ„DJH GHFDOV FUHDWHV D VWXQQLQJ ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

Custom rib tape decals are created by painting the FRUUHFW FRORU RQWR FOHDU GHFDO ĆƒOP 7KLQ VWULSV FDQ WKHQ be cut and applied just like any other decal.

7KH VDOPRQ SLQN DQG FRUQĆ„RZHU EOXH ULE WDSLQJ GHFDOV are vital to achieving the appropriate look for this WWI Fokker. The results speak for themselves.

EDUARD FOKKER D.VI // 1/48

MARKINGS & RIGGING :KLOH WKH NLWŪV OR]HQJH GHFDOV GLVDSSRLQWHG WKH remainder are excellent, if a little fragile. After I applied them and they were allowed to dry thoroughly, I then sprayed the whole aircraft with a couple of coats of Krylon Matte Finish. You don’t have to worry too much about rigging with Fokker aircraft (except the Eindeckers), as the unique cantilevered structure of the wings makes rigging wires unnecessary. In all, there were only a few lines attached to the control surfaces and some bracing for the landing gear that I needed to add.

The pewter engine casting is enhanced with photoetched detail parts for a more realistic look.

CONCLUSION Building these old Eduard kits can be challenging, but if you’re willing to spend some time cleaning and ĆƒWWLQJ SDUWV LW FDQ EH D UHZDUGLQJ EXLOG 8VLQJ $YLDWWLF OR]HQJH GHFDOV DGGV LPPHQVH LQWHUHVW DQG DXWKHQWLFLW\ to the build, and their ease of use and accurate color will HQVXUH WKDW \RX DFKLHYH D ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO \RX DUH SURXG to display alongside your more current kits.

Scale Modeling Quarterly 6FDOH 0RGHOLQJ 4XDUWHUO\ 604PDJ FRP Summer SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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smq

// MODELING TECH

Shadow Effect Exploring the Fine Art of Preshading by Bryant Dunbar

As with any artistic technique, preshading is loved by some and loathed by others. Critics claim that the results can be too exaggerated and make a model look overworked and over weathered. I beg to differ.

I

n the previous issue of SMQ, I discussed the merits of GLĆ‚HUHQW QHHGOH VL]HV DQG WKHLU appropriate applications. A common misconception among airbrush purchasers holds that the smallest QHHGOH VL]HVŧW\SLFDOO\ GHVLJQHG IRU ORZ YLVFRVLW\ LQNVŧDUH UHTXLUHG IRU FUHDWLQJ ĆƒQH GHWDLO OLNH WKLQ OLQHV However, these smallest of needles WHQG WR VWUXJJOH ZLWK KLJK YLVFRVLW\ KREE\ SDLQWV DQG PLOLWDU\ Ć„DWV LQ particular. The reality is that the W\SLFDO PHGLXP VL]HG QHHGOHV DUH LGHDO IRU FUHDWLQJ ĆƒQH OLQHV ZLWK hobby paints. With all the focus on ĆƒQH OLQH SHUIRUPDQFH \RX PLJKW EH wondering why the typical modeler is so concerned with lines. To answer that question, let’s discuss panel lining, also known as preshading.

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

In general, preshading involves airbrushing along a kit’s molded panel lines with a dark color before applying the standard paint scheme. By building up light coats of paint over the preshading, subtle variations will appear through the ĆƒQLVKHG SDLQWZRUN 7KLV DGGV YLVXDO depth to what would otherwise be a uniform coat of paint. With consideration shown in the application of the technique and an appreciation that subtle results can add even more character, then preshading will certainly make for a PRUH LQWHUHVWLQJ ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO So what does preshading really accomplish? Most would say it addresses the panel lines of the model. I say otherwise. It’s not the panel line that is being accentuated,

but the area adjacent to the panel line. The panel line itself can be reestablished later in the weathering process through the use of washes. It’s important to understand that for the purposes of preshading, the panel line is merely a guide to reference as we start the process. Preshading is one of the earliest painting steps, and generally it is only preceded by priming. Priming is QRW UHTXLUHG IRU HĆ‚HFWLYH SUHVKDGLQJ and, if your model is molded in a neutral gray color, you may be able to skip priming all together. However, you’ll typically want to prepare your model as you normally would. If the model is mixed media or entirely resin, a primer may be a requirement. Also, with some of the water based acrylic paints, such DV 9DOOHMR D SULPHU LV LPSHUDWLYH because the paint has a weak bond with plastic and can lift easily, even ZKHQ PDVNHG ZLWK ORZ WDFN WDSH Before starting, it’s important to note that the preshading technique would not be appropriate for natural metal areas, like engine exhausts, or aircraft in an overall natural metal ĆƒQLVK 0HWDOOLF SDLQWV UHTXLUH D QHDUO\ SULVWLQH ĆƒQLVK RYHU WKH HQWLUH surface, and the physical properties of the paint along each panel line will

MODELING TECH //

VSRLO WKH HĆ‚HFW )RU PRGHOV ZLWK D FRPELQDWLRQ RI SDLQWHG DQG QDWXUDO PHWDO DUHDV EH VXUH WR PDVN RĆ‚ QDWXUDO PHWDO areas or avoid them when applying preshading. With the model prepped, it’s time to select and prepare paint. In modeling, we commonly focus on PLOLWDU\ Ć„DW FRORUV EXW IRU SUHVKDGLQJ ZH ZDQW WR XVH JORVV FRORUV VSHFLĆƒFDOO\ JORVV EODFN *ORVV SDLQW LV LGHDO for two reasons. First, we are trying to create a visual HĆ‚HFW RQ RXU PRGHO QRW D WH[WXUDO RQH $Q DSSOLFDWLRQ RI gloss paint is more like that of the smooth surface of the SODVWLF LWVHOI ZKLOH Ć„DW SDLQW DSSOLHG RYHU Ć„DW SDLQW FDQ EXLOG XS UHVXOWLQJ LQ DQ HĆ‚HFW WKDW PD\ QRW ORRN ULJKW 6HFRQG JORVV SDLQW Ć„RZV EHWWHU WKURXJK WKH DLUEUXVK %HWWHU Ć„RZ ZLOO KHOS WR SUHYHQW WLS GU\ ZKLFK ZLOO PDNH IRU DQ HDVLHU WLPH ZKHQ DSSO\LQJ ĆƒQH OLQHV

AIRBRUSH SETUP Now that we have selected the paint, it needs to be thinned. I’m often asked for my paint thinning formula, but the truth is that there is no single recipe. Thinning ratios largely depend on what brand of paint is involved DQG HYHQ ZKLFK VSHFLĆƒF FRORU LQ HDFK EUDQG RQH LV XVLQJ In the case of black paint, it tends to be more viscous than other colors and, knowing that I’m going to attempt ĆƒQH OLQH ZRUN , ZLOO DGG DGGLWLRQDO WKLQQHU %H EROG ZLWK your thinner when working with gloss black. However, even with no set thinning ratios, I have ways to test my mixture. I use a toothpick to drag thinned paint up the VLGH RI WKH DLUEUXVKĹŞV FRORU FXS ,I WKH SDLQW WHQGV WR Ć„RZ back into the pool, I know I’m in the ballpark. When I VWDUW ZRUN RQ WKH PRGHO LWVHOI , VWLOO PD\ ĆƒQG WKDW , QHHG to further thin the mixture if I’m not getting the right performance from the paint. As with the paint, we need to setup our airbrush for the task at hand. The majority of airbrushes have a needle FDS VRPH PD\ UHIHU WR LW DV WKH QR]]OH FDS LWĹŞV WKH Ć„DUHG FLUFXODU ULQJ VXUURXQGLQJ WKH WLS RI WKH QHHGOH 7KH shape of the standard needle cap creates dispersion of WKH DLUĆ„RZ RXW RI WKH DLUEUXVK DQG FRQVHTXHQWO\ DLGV LQ WKH GLVSHUVLRQ RI WKH SDLQW LWVHOI 7KLV DLUĆ„RZ GLVSHUVLRQ LVQĹŞW LGHDO IRU FUHDWLQJ ĆƒQH OLQHV VR UHPRYLQJ WKH QHHGOH cap will create a tighter line. Removing the needle cap will also leave the delicate needle tip exposed, however, there is a second type of airbrush cap for just this situation: the crown cap. Rather than a full surround, the crown cap gets its name from the series of prongs extending from the airbrush’s tip to guard the needle.

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7KH VWDQGDUG QR]]OH FDS WRS KHOSV WR GLĆ‚XVH DLUĆ„RZ IRU EHWWHU paint dispersion, a hindrance ZKHQ VSUD\LQJ ĆƒQH OLQHV

5HPRYLQJ WKH VWDQGDUG QR]]OH cap leaves the needle exposed (middle). Adding a crown cap (bottom) simply protects it.

Fine gloss black lines are at the core of the preshading technique. Gloss paint is best; it applies smoothly, blending with the plastic.

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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// MODELING TECH

,Q IDFW WKDWĹŞV LWV ELJ VHFUHW UDWKHU WKDQ DĆ‚HFW WKH DLU Ć„RZ WKH FURZQ FDS GRHV QRWKLQJ PRUH WKDQ SURWHFW WKH needle. That’s all. While a crown cap is not always included when purchasing an airbrush, Grex Tritiums and the new Genesis XGi and XSi airbrushes come with a needle cap and crown cap in the box. Helpfully, Grex’s caps are both PDJQHWL]HG DOORZLQJ IRU TXLFN FKDQJHV 0DQ\ EUDQGV IHDWXUH WKUHDG RQ VW\OH FDSV WKDW FDQ EH SXUFKDVHG separately from the airbrush. While nice, and an added insurance policy for the needle tip, the crown cap isn’t UHTXLUHG ZKHQ \RX UHPRYH \RX QR]]OH FDS WR VSUD\ ĆƒQH lines. You’ll just have to remain vigilant to protect the QHHGOHĹŞV WLS DQG \RXU ĆƒQJHUV $ ĆƒQDO FRQFHUQ ZKHQ XVLQJ DQ DLUEUXVK IRU SUHVKDGLQJ is the appropriate air pressure setting. As with thinning, WKHUH LV PRUH WKDQ RQH DQVZHU :LWK P\ W\SLFDO PP QHHGOH QR]]OH FRQĆƒJXUDWLRQ , ĆƒQG WKDW P\ *UH[ SHUIRUPV EHVW DW D SUHVVXUH VHWWLQJ RI SVL PHDVXUHG while spraying). Keep in mind that airbrushes with GLĆ‚HUHQW QHHGOH VL]HV ZLOO SHUIRUP GLĆ‚HUHQWO\ VR \RXĹŞOO QHHG WR ĆƒQG ZKDW ZRUNV IRU \RX WKURXJK WULDO DQG HUURU

WINGS AND LINES Although preshading is typically applied to the entire model, to keep things simple I’m focusing on a set of wings. The wings are molded in a neutral gray color, so I’ve chosen not to prime them beforehand. For comparison, I will demonstrate my preshading technique on the left wing and airbrush only the base color on the right wing. %HIRUH SXWWLQJ SDLQW WR SODVWLF , ĆƒUVW ZDQW WR PDNH VXUH WKDW WKH DLUEUXVK LV ZRUNLQJ DQG WKH SDLQW Ć„RZLQJ

ZHOO ,WĹŞV SRVVLEOH IRU XQWKLQQHG SDLQW WR EH LQ WKH Ć„XLG QR]]OH VLQFH , WKLQ P\ SDLQW LQ WKH FRORU FXS VR , DOZD\V spray some paint onto a paper towel to ensure I’ve cleared it. When adding preshading, I approach the model’s surface at a high angle, close in. It’s necessary to get very FORVH WR WKH VXUIDFHV IRU TXDOLW\ ĆƒQH OLQH DSSOLFDWLRQ Additionally, keeping the airbrush in motion while WULJJHULQJ D VPDOO Ć„RZ RI SDLQW LV NH\ WR DFKLHYLQJ WKH desired results. Moving over a panel line, I will keep the DLUEUXVK LQ PRWLRQ DV , VWDUW WR LQLWLDWH SDLQW Ć„RZ ,I WKH airbrush is kept motionless, then an excessive amount RI WKH YHU\ WKLQ SDLQW LV OLNHO\ WR Ć„RZ RQWR WKH VXUIDFH LQ one spot. I usually start with longer panel lines as I get comfortable with the airbrush’s performance. This allows me to determine if the paint is thinned correctly. If the paint is too thick, it will tend to spatter out of the airbrush in short little streaks. In this case, I’ll add thinner to the color cup and then check the new mixture on a paper towel. On the other hand, if the paint is a little too thin, it may be translucent when applied, thus forcing me to make multiple passes over the same panel line to build an opaque layer of the black paint. Still, I would much rather make several passes with thin paint WKDQ VWUXJJOH ZLWK XQGHU WKLQQHG SDLQW DQG WKH UHVXOWLQJ performance issues. 5HFRJQL]LQJ KRZ \RXU ERG\ EHVW SHUIRUPV ZKHQ XVLQJ an airbush will enhance your ability to preshade panel OLQHV ,ĹŞYH IRXQG P\ KDQG H\H FRRUGLQDWLRQ ZRUNV EHWWHU when I move the airbrush in an up and down motion, rather than side to side. Orienting the model accordingly for each group of parallel lines makes the task easier. While preshading the longer lines, there is nothing wrong with having little wiggles in the paint, though consistency should be your goal with practice. As I get PRUH FRPIRUWDEOH ZLWK WKH ĆƒQH OLQH SHUIRUPDQFH RI P\

Rather than try to outline small details, ĆƒOOLQJ WKHP LQ FUHDWHV VLPLODU UHVXOWV

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Adding color to individual panels helps

Scale Modeling Quarterly to vary the preshading's intensity. Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

MODELING TECH //

thinned paint and airbrush settings, I will address the more detailed areas such as gun access panels and such. )RU VPDOO FLUFXODU DFFHVV SDQHOV , VLPSO\ ĆƒOO LQ WKH HQWLUH detail rather than try to outline it.

COLOR COATS 2QFH WKH SUHVKDGLQJ KDV GULHG EULQJLQJ WKH HĆ‚HFW WR life really depends on how the base color is applied over LW 7KH DUWLVWLF HĆ‚HFW ZLOO XOWLPDWHO\ EH D UHVXOW RI WKH application process, and not in the thinning of the base color. Therefore, simply thin the required color—olive drab, in this case—as you would normally thin paints for your particular paint brand and airbrush settings. Typically, paint is applied by spraying the surface at a ORZ DQJOH IURP D GLVWDQFH ,Q IDFW ,ĹŞP MXVW XWLOL]LQJ WKH airbrush as a very expensive spray can. I move in sweeping motions across the surface, and I can cover the wing in a very short amount of time. Turning the wing around, I can then address the leading edge, and the painting is done. While this provides an even coat (as seen on the XQVKDGHG ULJKW ZLQJ LWĹŞV D YHU\ ERULQJ RQH QRWH ĆƒQLVK Over the preshading on the left wing, rather than coming in at low angle and some distance from the model, I prefer to approach the model at an extremely high angle and almost as close to the model as I was when preshading. Further, I’m not addressing the wing as a whole but focusing on the areas between the panel OLQHV , FDOO WKLV WKH SDQHO E\ SDQHO WHFKQLTXH As with the preshading, I start with the larger panels. Starting at the center of the panel, I work my way out toward the panel lines. As I do so, I’m modulating my paint to spray in very thin coats. I don’t want to overwhelm the gloss black; I want it to show through the olive drab. This is the moment where your own sense of artistry will come into play. Just how much black will you allow WR VKRZ WKURXJK" +DYLQJ VSHFLĆƒF NQRZOHGJH DERXW WKH subject you’re building will help. Ask yourself: was the

Subtle panel line shading is the goal; less is more.

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DLUFUDIW NHSW LQ D KDQJDU RU QRW" 'LG LW WDNH RĆ‚ RI JUDVV RU SDYHG UXQZD\V" :DV WKH DLUFUDIW Ć„RZQ URXWLQHO\ DQG LI VR LQ KLJK SDFHG FRPEDW HQYLURQPHQWV RU QRQ FRPEDW situations? These types of questions will help you to GHWHUPLQH KRZ GUDPDWLF WKH SUHVKDGLQJ HĆ‚HFWV VKRXOG be. Again, as I’m comfortable with my paint and airbrush settings, I’ll progress to smaller areas. I also evaluate the overall consistency across the wing, carefully working on inconsistent areas with very small amounts of paint. It’s good to stop every so often and hold your model out DW DUPĹŞV OHQJWK WR HYDOXDWH WR JHW D JRRG RYHUDOO HĆ‚HFW If needed, I can spray thin coats from afar to generally blend the coverage over the entire wing. The key to all of this is to shoot very thin layering FRDWV XQWLO WKH GHVLUHG HĆ‚HFW LV DFKLHYHG ,I \RX ĆƒQG \RXĹŞUH IRFXVLQJ RQ D VSHFLĆƒF DUHD WRR PXFK WHPSRUDULO\ move on to ensure the area isn’t oversaturated with the base color. This will allow the paint to dry somewhat, providing a more accurate picture of the results. Remember, applying the base coat is an additive process; you can always add additional coats later, but you can’t remove them. I’ve covered preshading the exterior surfaces of a model in this article, but keep in mind that this process can also be used in cockpits, engine bays, wheel wells, DQG PRUH &OHDUO\ WKH SUHVKDGLQJ DQG SDQHO E\ SDQHO painting technique is not a quick process. It’s about patience and taking the time to paint in a meticulous way. 7KH UHVXOWV RI WKH HĆ‚RUW DUH VHOI HYLGHQW (YHQ WKRXJK the black paint is fully covered in the end, by comparing it to the unshaded right wing, you can see how it adds D YHU\ VXEWOH FKDUDFWHU VRPHWKLQJ WKDW HYHQ SDQHO E\ panel painting alone can’t achieve. The end result is much more interesting to look at. Bryant Dunbar is an award-winning modeler and current employee of Grex Airbrush.

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SMALLWonder

Weathering on this diminutive 1/72 scale PZL P.24 packs one hefty large-scale punch. by Tomasz Chacewicz

Azur, a popular Czech manufacturer of short-run models, announced the planned release of a 1/72 scale PZL P.24 kit family a few years ago. The first boxing hit the market in 2011, quickly achieving bestseller status in many Polish hobby shops.

Thick parts are replaced with styrene rod.

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

D

espite the strong sales, however, I’ve seen the kit IHDWXUHG LQ RQO\ D IHZ ZRUN LQ SURJUHVV WKUHDGV on Polish modeling forums, and I’ve witnessed RQO\ D KDQGIXO RI ĆƒQLVKHG NLWV DSSHDULQJ DW YDULRXV FRQWHVWV 7KHUHIRUH , GHFLGHG WR WDFNOH WKLV VXUSULVLQJ ODFN RI 3 EXLOGV E\ ZLWK P\ RZQ ĆƒQLVKHG DV DQ DLUFUDIW RI WKH +HOOHQLF Air Force. $W ĆƒUVW JODQFH WKH FRQWHQWV RI WKH VPDOO EOXH ER[ PDNH a good impression. The plastic parts have a smooth surface ZLWK ĆƒQHO\ HQJUDYHG SDQHO OLQHV 7KH GLVWLQFWLYH JURRYHG VKHHW metal wing and tail surfaces are also reasonably reproduced. A very small photoetched fret and some resin bits are welcome additions that encouraged me to start building the NLW LPPHGLDWHO\

ASSEMBLY Following the clear instructions, I began by mounting the FRFNSLW 6LQFH , SODQQHG WR Ćƒ[ WKH FDQRS\ LQ D FORVHG SRVLWLRQ

AZUR PZL P.24 // 1/72

I didn’t add any scratchbuilt details. However, I did opt to replace some of the thick parts with styrene rod. Next, the kit interior was sprayed with a coat of Mr. Hobby’s 0U &RORU 6LOYHU while most of the details on the equipment were painted by hand LQ %ODFN + from Mr. Hobby’s Aqueous Hobby Color range. I followed this with an oil wash. I created the dark wash from a very dense mixture of 5HPEUDQGWĹŞV %XUQW 8PEHU RLO SDLQW and white spirit from Talens, and I applied it to the cockpit's surfaces. One hour later, I removed the excess using some tissues and cotton buds. I focused on retaining the wash in the recesses while trying to create soft color demarcations at the same time. Afterwards, I put together the fuselage halves. First, I applied regular Tamiya Cement to the surfaces to be JOXHG DQG WKHQ VTXHH]HG WKH ZKROH fuselage together with clamps and a clothespin. I then spread some Tamiya Extra Thin Cement over the joints. Because polystyrene cements soften the plastic, the glued parts should be left to dry for quite a long time. This allows time to detect any possible holes in the joint and then ĆƒOO WKHP LI QHFHVVDU\ Once dry, I smoothed and polished WKH MRLQWV DQG ĆƒOOHG LQ VRPH VPDOO gaps with a mixture of a standard PHGLXP VXSHUJOXH DQG /RFWLWH D EODFN UXEEHUL]HG VXSHUJOXH >Easily

An oil wash is used to enhance the kit's painted cockpit details.

Standard Tamiya Cement is used to join the fuselage halves. Once clamps are in place, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is added to seal the joint.

found in US hobby shops as tire glue for R/C cars – Ed.]. As the latter SURGXFW LV UXEEHU WRXJKHQHG WKH mixture doesn’t pearl when sanded after drying. What’s more, the mixture cures in a short time, ranging from only a few minutes to a few hours, depending on the thickness of the applied layer. It also doesn’t sink like typical modeling putties. Some damaged panel lines had WR EH UHFUHDWHG ZLWK DQ XOWUD ĆƒQH WRRWKHG UD]RU EODGH DIWHU WKH VHDPV ZHUH UHPRYHG , WKLQN WKDW GHĆ„HFWHG control surfaces add some realism to D ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO VR ZKLOH , KDG P\ WRRWKHG UD]RU EODGH RXW , XVHG LW WR cut out the ailerons from the wing halves and the rudder from the tail. Where needed, I added small pieces of styrene to the moveable surfaces

in order to build up their correct depth. I gave the joined strips and VXUIDFHV WKHLU ĆƒQDO VKDSH ZLWK WKH KHOS RI ĆƒOHV DQG VDQGSDSHU After preparing all of the main sections, I could engrave the rivet lines. Kagero’s PZL P.24 monograph was the source of the aircraft drawings I referenced for this task. Due to the design of the airframe, I had to add the riveting before gluing the wing to the fuselage. I used a gear wheel from an old watch mounted in the RB Productions 5LYHW 5 KROGHU 2QFH ĆƒQLVKHG , SXW together the wings, fuselage, and FRQWURO VXUIDFHV , DOVR ĆƒWWHG PRVW of the details to the outer surfaces of the kit; however, many of them were only temporarily attached and were removed for easier painting. Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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It's the little things... PAINTING & DECALS

(YHQ LQ VFDOH VPDOO PRGLĆƒFDWLRQV FDQ EH PDGH WR D NLW WR HOHYDWH WKH ĆƒQLVKHG SURGXFW 3RVLWLRQLQJ WKH FRQWURO VXUIDFHV LQ D GHĆ„HFWHG SRVLWLRQ DGGV UHDOLVP

The control surfaces were cut out with a razor saw, and then closed in with styrene strips. They're repositioned and attached before paint begins.

$OO GHWDLOV DUH WHVW ĆƒWWHG DV ĆƒW LVVXHV DUH HDVLHU WR correct before adding paint. Fragile details are removed EHIRUH SDLQWLQJ DQG SHUPDQHQWO\ DĆ…[HG DIWHUZDUGV

28

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

I started by masking the clear parts and spraying Mr. 6XUIDFHU RYHU WKH ZKROH NLW $V XVXDO , GLOXWHG WKLV SULPHU ZLWK 0U &RORU /HYHOLQJ 7KLQQHU DW D UDWLR DQG airbrushed a few thin layers. The resulting surface was smooth and perfect for applying various types of paints. My next step was to darken the most important panel lines and recesses with Mr. Color Extra Dark Seagray , SUHIHU QRW WR XVH EODFN SDLQW IRU SUHVKDGLQJ GXH WR LWV TXLWH WKLFN SLJPHQW ZKLFK PDNHV LW GLĆ…FXOW WR paint thin lines with the airbrush trigger held in a slightly retracted position.

The blue shade of the undersurfaces was mixed from 0U &RORU %OXH 5/0 /LJKW %OXH DQG *UD\ )6 , DSSOLHG D WUDQVOXFHQW OD\HU RI WKH KHDYLO\ WKLQQHG PL[WXUH WR NHHS WKH SUHVKDGLQJ HĆ‚HFW partially visible. The demarcations between the colors of the underside and upper surfaces had to be sharp, so I masked this carefully ZLWK 7DPL\D PP tape and ordinary paper masking tape. I then applied slightly translucent patches of Sand paint mixed from Tamiya 'DUN <HOORZ ;) DQG 0U &RORU 5/0 6DQG <HOORZ 7KH UHVXOWLQJ PL[WXUH ZDV LQLWLDOO\ D GHQVH VOXUU\ but it returned to normal after adding some Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. %HIRUH , VSUD\HG WKH VHFRQG FDPRXĆ„DJH FRORU , marked the demarcations with a green watercolor pencil.

AZUR PZL P.24 // 1/72

The painted undersurface is masked to create sharp demarcations.

Since I wanted to get clear demarcations with a soft edge, I chose to airbrush the second color without using tape or putty snakes. These masks are not required if you set the compressor to a minimal air pressure and gently handle the slightly retracted airbrush trigger. 5HPRYLQJ WKH QR]]OH FDS DOVR KHOSV ZKHQ SDLQWLQJ WKLQ lines. I applied strongly diluted Aqueous Hobby Color .KDNL *UHHQ + The wheel hubs were airbrushed and, once dry, I used a drafting compass equipped with a scalpel blade LQVWHDG RI D SHQFLO WR PHDVXUH WKH VL]H RI WKH KXEV , WKHQ FXW VRPH GLVFV RI WKH FRUUHFW VL]H IURP 7DPL\D PP WDSH 1H[W , PDGH VPDOO KROHV IRU WKH KXE EROWV and applied the masks onto the wheel hubs. Finally, I XVHG PDVNLQJ Ć„XLG WR VHDO WKH DUHDV VXUURXQGLQJ WKH KXE bolts, and I was able to paint the wheels easily. Afterwards, I sprayed the kit with Mr. Color Gloss 9DUQLVK DQG ZDV UHDG\ WR DSSO\ WKH GHFDOV 7KH GHFDO VKHHW ZDV QLFHO\ SULQWHG E\ $YLSULQW D &]HFK company, and the individual decals worked perfectly with Microscale decal solutions. Once the markings had dried a bit, I slightly cut them with a scalpel blade to allow them to conform around the panel lines. I also encouraged the decals to conform into the rivet lines by running the riveter gently over the markings applied above the previously added rivet lines. The decals were ĆƒQDOO\ VRDNHG ZLWK VHWWLQJ VROXWLRQ RQFH DJDLQ DQG , SXW the kit aside for one day to allow the markings to dry thoroughly.

Demarcations are outlined with a watercolor pencil before the second color.

The cowling is painted with the body to ensure colors match.

WEATHERING After securing the dry decals with another layer of clear gloss varnish, I could begin to bring out the details WKURXJK ZHDWKHULQJ 8VLQJ D YHU\ ĆƒQH EUXVK , DSSOLHG $. ,QWHUDFWLYH 'DUN %URZQ $. ZDVK LQWR DOO UHFHVVHV including the rivets. The excess enamel wash was quickly removed with a cotton bud. Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

29

1/72 // AZUR PZL P.24 Watercolor pencils are used to FUHDWH FKLSSLQJ RQ D PDWWH ĆƒQLVK

Before continuing the weathering process, I gave the kit a coat of matte varnish. I used a mixture of Mr. Color )ODW &OHDU DQG D OLWWOH )ODW %DVH 6PRRWK 7KH latter ingredient ensures that the surface will be smooth DQG WKDW DQ\ XQZDQWHG IURVWLQJ HĆ‚HFW ZRQĹŞW DSSHDU Once the varnish had dried, I removed the masks from the canopy. To make painting the small detail parts easier, I always attach them to pieces of sprue or toothpicks, which can be easily mounted in a styrofoam block. The replica of the engine was VSUD\HG ZLWK 0U &RORU 6LOYHU and washed with AK Interactive 'DUN %URZQ $. ZDVK The resin exhaust manifolds would be clearly visible on the ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO VR WKH\ KDG WR UHFHLYH D VWULNLQJ ĆƒQLVK )LUVW , airbrushed them with Mr. Color Silver, darkened a little ZLWK D GURS RI 0U &RORU %ODFN 1H[W , VSUD\HG D layer of matte varnish over them. The latter worked as a primer for the various rusty pigments from Kremer that ZHUH PL[HG ZLWK $. ,QWHUDFWLYH 3LJPHQW )L[HU $. and applied to the manifolds. Once they’d dried, I wiped them again with the same pigments, while also adding some black powder near the exhaust outlets. Now it was time for chipping. I created the paint chips on the upper surfaces of the kit with the help of .RK , 1RRU ZDWHUFRORU SHQFLOV 7KHUH DUH WZR EDVLF rules when working with them: the pencil has to be really sharp, whilst the surface should be perfectly matte. 8VLQJ SHQFLOV RI VOLJKWO\ OLJKWHU VKDGHV WKDQ WKRVH RI WKH FDPRXĆ„DJH FRORUV , FDQ GUDZ YHU\ VPDOO PDUNV DQG dots in the areas where such damage had appeared on WKH UHDO DLUFUDIW 7KH EDUH PHWDO HĆ‚HFW RI WKH GHHSHVW abrasions was replicated with a light gray pencil.

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

Pigments are used to add weathering in targeted areas.

7KH XQGHUVLGH ZDV ĆƒQLVKHG ZLWK WKH VDPH WHFKQLTXH mainly using a light gray pencil. To recreate the gunsmoke stains, I applied some black SLJPHQW IURP .UHPHU RQWR WKH ZLQJV ZLWK D YHU\ ĆƒQH brush. The dirt on the landing gear was replicated with AK ,QWHUDFWLYH (XURSHDQ (DUWK $. SLJPHQW , VWDUWHG by using a paintbrush to rub the dry surfaces with the powder and then removed the excess. I was careful to leave as much pigment as possible in all recesses of the parts. Greasy oil stains on the underside of the fuselage ZHUH SDLQWHG ZLWK 9DQ '\FN %URZQ RLO SDLQW DQG $.ĹŞV 'DUN %URZQ ZDVK XVLQJ D EUXVK ZLWK YHU\ ĆƒQH DQG ORQJ bristles. %HIRUH WKH ĆƒQDO DVVHPEO\ , JOXHG WKH UDGLR DQWHQQD on with superglue. The antenna itself was made from a YHU\ Ć„H[LEOH WKUHDG ERXJKW LQ D VHZLQJ VKRS

SECTION TITLE // 1/700

Flexible thread, attached with superglue and colored black, is used to create the complicated set of radio antennas.

$OWKRXJK PXOWLSOH ƃQLVKLQJ DQG ZHDWKHULQJ WHFKQLTXHV are used on the P.24, they come together well, and the ƃQLVKHG DLUFUDIW ORRNV YHU\ UHDOLVWLF

The evenly weathered and worn surfaces over the entire model enhance the realism.

Restraint is important when creating convincing weathering.

Kit Used

The weathering and subtle detailing are astonishing IRU D VFDOH PRGHO

$]XU

PZL P.24 F/G 6FDOH 6WRFN $

6FDOH 0RGHOLQJ 4XDUWHUO\ 604PDJ FRP Summer 2015

31

1/35 // TANK TURRET PILLBOXES

A Tale of Two Turrets

Two modelers turn their plethora of spare parts into small vignettes.

Tank turret pillboxes were a common form of fortification with a history stretching from the end of the WWI until quite recently. While Germany and the Soviet Union’s use of turret fortifications during WWII is well known, the Soviet Union’s largest use of turrets was along the borders with China and Mongolia after WWII.

T

here were many surplus tanks available after WWII, and their turrets provided economical SURWHFWLRQ LQ WKH WHQVH &ROG :DU HUD IRU PDQ\ countries in Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. In fact, some may still be in service today. There are several kits of tank turret pillboxes, mostly UHVLQ RĆ‚HULQJV EXW \RX PD\ DOUHDG\ KDYH ZKDW \RX QHHG LQ \RXU VSDUHV ER[ $V WKH UHDO IRUWLĆƒFDWLRQV YDULHG greatly—ranging from specially produced models like the German’s prefabricated Panther turret (complete with VWHHO OLYLQJ DQG ĆƒJKWLQJ FRPSDUWPHQW ER[HV DOO WKH ZD\ to a tank with an unreliable engine driven to a defensible spot and left there with a reduced crew—you have a lot of freedom in modeling your own turret pillbox. Something DV VLPSOH DV D ZKHHO OHVV WDQN LQ D SLW RU RQH HQFDVHG LQ dirt or concrete up to its turret is reasonable. The turrets

32

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

WKHPVHOYHV ZHUH RIWHQ XVHG DV LV ZKLOH RWKHUV ZHUH H[WHQVLYHO\ PRGLĆƒHG *UHDW SODFHV WR VWDUW ORRNLQJ IRU ideas include Neil Short’s excellent book Tank Turret )RUWLĆƒFDWLRQV or a simple online search. by Steven Andreano , GHFLGHG WR EXLOG D SLOOER[ RI PLG OHYHO VRSKLVWLFDWLRQ with the turret and upper deck set in concrete. It seems like in real life the builders used the turret ring, a complicated part to machine, from the original tank ZKHQHYHU SRVVLEOH , FKRVH DQ $UN 0RGHOV UH ER[LQJ RI WKH $ODQ +REELHV VFDOH NLW RI D *HUPDQ Ć„DPHWKURZHU WDQN WKH 3DQ]HU ,, )ODPP 6G .I] 7KH *HUPDQV EXLOW IURP WR HDUO\ 7KH WKLQO\ DUPRUHG WDQN ZDV QHYHU SRSXODU ZLWK WKH WURRSV KRZHYHU RI LWV RGG 0* PDFKLQH JXQ DUPHG PDLQ WXUUHWV HQGHG

up being used for pillboxes, with two located in Norway and the rest on the Eastern Front. Photos show some of the turrets PRGLĆƒHG DQG RWKHUV SUHWW\ PXFK stock. I chose to depict the turret LQ LWV VWDQGDUG FRQĆƒJXUDWLRQ DV , had some other plans to make the project more interesting. The kit has clunky details with pretty thick plastic, so I had the idea to pop out WKH RSWLFV UHSODFLQJ WKH NLW VXSSOLHG commander’s hatch periscope with a clear one and opening up some of the prominent vision ports. The three side and rear ports needed to be thinned considerably with careful sanding on a sanding block. I then deepened the vision slits with WKH EDFN RI D QHZ NQLIH EODGH I wanted to open all the ports, but , FRXOG RQO\ ĆƒQG RQH LQVLGH JODVV block mount from an old Tamiya kit in my spares box, so I went with only opening one. 7KH ĆƒUVW VWHS LQ RSHQLQJ WKH SRUW ZDV WR FDUHIXOO\ PDUN RĆ‚ WKH DUHD , would be removing from the turret using a straight edge and pencil. I then used the markings to drill a hole inside each corner with a hand drill. Since the plastic was so thick, I found that I needed to drill a series of holes completely around the inside of the marked rectangle. The holes allowed PH WR XVH D EODGH WR FXW RXW WKH remaining plastic, and I smoothed out WKH HGJHV ZLWK PLQL ĆƒOHV DQG VDQGLQJ sticks. I decided to sand a bevel into the plastic on the sides and bottom of the port, working from the rear, to give a more realistic thickness to the DUPRU :KHQ , ĆƒQLVKHG WKH KROH , took the protectoscope and removed the plastic from the area where the armored glass would go using the same method.

Opening the side port and replacing the optics add a great deal of visual interest to what otherwise would be just a simple turret.

I added round head rivets from The Armory by Gauntlett around the vision ports and to the pivots of the large front visors. I then cut WZR / VKDSHG EUDFNHWV IURP SODVWLF strip to hold the open port in place. To create the appearance of armored glass in the protectoscope, I used Microscale Micro Kristal Klear and Testors Model Master Clear Green mixed together on some scrap plastic and applied carefully using a EUXVK ,W WRRN D FRXSOH RI FRDWV WR JHW D VPRRWK DQG IXOO\ ĆƒOOHG glass panel. I then carefully painted the metal parts of the interior visor with Tamiya Dark Grey. After the whole thing was dry, I masked the DVVHPEO\ RĆ‚ ZLWK WDSH DQG JOXHG LW to the inside of the turret. At that point, I noticed that I could see light around the internal visor parts, so I cut two pieces of sheet styrene, SDLQWHG WKHP Ć„DW EODFN DQG JOXHG WKHP WRJHWKHU LQ DQ / VKDSH WR EORFN the area behind the open port. I thinned the periscope guard for the commander’s hatch and replaced the kit periscope with a clear one from a Fine Molds WWII 86 3HULVFRSH VHW , KDQG SDLQWHG the periscope, masked the front, and glued it in place. I also replaced the turret’s machine gun, upgrading LW ZLWK DQ 0* IURP D 7DPL\D

weapons set that featured a drilled out barrel.

PILLBOX CONSTRUCTION As with the real life pillboxes, I used the upper deck and turret ring plate to mount the turret. I planned to surround the plate with a piece of sheet styrene that would represent the FRQFUHWH EXQNHU 8VLQJ WKH SODWH LWVHOI DV D PHDVXULQJ JXLGH , PDUNHG RĆ‚ WKH square opening in the sheet styrene and cut it out using a metal straight edge and a hobby knife.

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

33

1/35 // ARK MODELS PZKPFW II (FLAMM)

To give the styrene surround a convincing concrete texture, I stippled it with a mix of Tamiya Putty White and liquid cement. When this dried, I lightly sanded it. I then added the kit top plate and the lifting hooks, which , FDUHIXOO\ WKLQQHG ĆƒUVW , EXLOW WKH EDVH XVLQJ D FRUH RI scrap foam skinned with sheet styrene to create some depth to the presentation.

PAINTING & WEATHERING I sprayed the concrete areas with Polly Scale Concrete paint. The next day, I applied a thick wash of burnt umber oil paint followed by some black wash around the front. To simulate further wear, I drybrushed the concrete ZLWK GLĆ‚HUHQW VKDGHV RI NKDNL DQG \HOORZ SDLQW $IWHU WKLV GULHG , PDVNHG WKH FRQFUHWH DUHDV RĆ‚ DQG VSUD\HG the kit parts with Tamiya Dark Grey. I let the paint dry for several days and then gave it a good coat of Testors *ORVV &RDW DV , ZDV SODQQLQJ RQ XVLQJ WKH KDLU VSUD\ WHFKQLTXH WR VKRZ WKH HĆ‚HFWV RI WKH KDUVK FOLPDWH RQ the pillbox. 7R VWDUW RĆ‚ , WKLQQHG 7HVWRUV $FU\O 3DQ]HU 'XQNHUJHOE DQG 3DQ]HU 2OLYJUžQ LQ VHSDUDWH ERWWOHV VR that it was ready to be airbrushed. I heated a can of hair spray in warm water, shook it up, and sprayed it over the kit. When the hair spray had dried, I sprayed the Dunkergelb and random patterns of the OlivgrĂźn over the turret. When dry to the touch, I applied clear water DQG FKLSSHG DZD\ ZLWK DQ ROG 0LFUR 0DUN GU\EUXVKLQJ EUXVK :KHQ , ĆƒQLVKHG FKLSSLQJ , OHW LW GU\ RYHUQLJKW DQG sealed everything with a layer of Testors Dullcote. 0\ ĆƒQDO ZHDWKHULQJ VWDJHV LQYROYHG DSSO\LQJ RLO SDLQW pin washes of black, burnt umber, and burnt sienna around details and in recesses. I carefully highlighted raised edges on the model using oil paints in tones darker than the base coat. This also provides tonal variations as well as highlighting. I let these dry, then I went back and added more washes and highlights a few nights later. When I though it looked good, I sealed everything ZLWK ĆƒQDO OD\HU RI 'XOOFRWH $W WKLV SRLQW , UHPRYHG WKH masking on the clear parts and applied some ground pastels for dust and powdered graphite (ground from a SHQFLO WR WKH 0* DQG DURXQG WKH FRPPDQGHUĹŞV KDWFK for metallic highlights. :LWK WKH HQGOHVV FRQĆƒJXUDWLRQV RI WDQN WXUUHW pillboxes in the real world, building your own scale pillbox with parts found in your spares box or from a kit languishing on your shelf of doom is a straightforward

34

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

A Model Scene ground covering mat, Forest Base (Spring), was glued to the styrofoam core of the completed base for scenery.

Kit Used Ark Models

PzKpfw II (Flamm) 6FDOH PP 6WRFN

proposition. It can also serve as an ideal side project for times when assembling tracks and aligning road wheels becomes tedious. You certainly have nothing to lose in giving your own pillbox a shot, and your desk is probably ODFNLQJ PXFK QHHGHG SHUPDQHQW IRUWLĆƒFDWLRQV

DRAGON M4A4 SHERMAN // 1/35

TURRET

by Ryan Koschatzky

A KIT BASHING ODYSSEY :KLOH ,ĹŞYH DOZD\V ZDQWHG WR EXLOG VFDOH V HUD (J\SWLDQ 0 $ )/ WDQN D K\EULG FUHDWHG IURP DQ 0 $ KXOO DQG DQ (%5 WXUUHW LW ZRXOG PHDQ NLW EDVKLQJ WZR YHU\ QLFH NLWV WKH +REE\ %RVV (%5 DQG the Dragon M4A4 Sherman. I didn’t want the remain SDUWV WR VLPSO\ ĆƒOO XS P\ VSDUHV ER[ VR , VHW P\ PLQG WR ĆƒQGLQJ D ZD\ WR JHW DV PXFK PRGHOLQJ DV , FRXOG from these two kits. With a bit of research, it became FOHDU WKDW , FRXOG XVH WKH QRZ WXUUHW OHVV (%5 NLW to depict one of the vehicles that was converted for French President Charles de Gaulle’s funeral. That left WKH ERG\ OHVV 6KHUPDQ WXUUHW DQG , IRXQG LQVSLUDWLRQ for a little vignette when I asked for ideas on a modeling web forum. The IJssel Line was the Dutch portion of NATO’s plan LQ FDVH RI D 6RYLHW LQYDVLRQ LQ WKH V DQG V ,I QHFHVVDU\ WKH ,-VVHO 5LYHU ZRXOG KDYH EHHQ Ć„RRGHG XVLQJ VHYHUDO WHPSRUDU\ GDPV LQXQGDWLQJ LWV Ć„RRGSODLQV DQG hopefully buying time for NATO to secure the valuable Dutch ports before an invasion reached the coast. To protect these dams, the Dutch encased Sherman tanks in concrete, minus their tracks and engine. I chose to replicate a turret and bunker, located in the city of Arnhem in the Netherlands, as it looks today. 7KLV SDUWLFXODU IRUWLĆƒFDWLRQ LV D 6KHUPDQ WXUUHW ZLWKRXW D EDUUHO >YLVLW 604PDJ FRP WR ĆƒQG OLQNV WR UHFHQW SKRWRV]. While the bunker, turret still in place, was hidden in a hedgerow and nearly forgotten along the side of residential street for many years, the scrub has recently been cut back to expose this piece of Cold War history. 7R WDFNOH WKH SURMHFW LQ VFDOH , EURNH WKH EXLOG down into three subsections: turret, bunker, and hatch.

'UDJRQĹŞV 0 $ WXUUHW UHSUHVHQWV D ' WXUUHW PDQXIDFWXUHG IURP WKH IDOO RI DQG ODWHU ,Q JHQHUDO , followed Dragon’s instructions for assembly, leaving out the parts that wouldn’t be required to depict my chosen WXUUHW :KLOH WKH FDO JXQ ZDVQĹŞW QHHG WKH PDFKLQH JXQ ORFN SDUW % ZDV XVHG KRZHYHU LW ZDV WULPPHG and had parts bent over to match the real example. One thing missing from Dragon’s turret was the raised foundry symbols. I added these using Archer Fine 7UDQVIHUVĹŞ &DVWLQJ 0DUNV $5 $UFKHUĹŞV PDUNV DUH FUHDWHG IURP UHVLQ DSSOLHG WR D FOHDU FDUULHU ĆƒOP much like a traditional decal. However, unlike the typical decals, the resin markings are actually raised, giving the DSSOLHG PDUNV D SURWRW\SLFDO WKUHH GLPHQVLRQDO SURĆƒOH These marks are also easy to use, applying much like a standard decal. I used the large octagon with the letter C in the FHQWHU IRU WKH UHDU DQG WRS 7KLV V\PERO LGHQWLĆƒHV WKH American Steel Foundries Cast Armor Plant in East Chicago, Indiana, as the manufacturer. Found around the top foundry symbol, additional raised markings provide further information about the turret. The turret’s part number, D50878, appears above the foundry symbol. This was added by cutting individual numbers of similar VL]HV IURP WKH $UFKHU VKHHW 7KH 1 to the symbol’s left is thought to be the pattern or revision used. The LO WR WKH ULJKW LV WKRXJKW WR LQGLFDWH D VSHFLĆƒF PHWKRG RI heat treatment. The number below the foundry symbol, A1071 in this case, is the serial number for this turret. A few additional items needed to be corrected on

Scratchbuilt surface details and Archer Fine Transfer Casting Marks bring the turret, the focal point of the small vignette, to life.

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

35

1/35 // DRAGON M4A4 SHERMAN

WKH WXUUHW WR DFFXUDWHO\ GHSLFW P\ SURWRW\SH , ĆƒOOHG LQ the smoke grenade hole with Squadron Green Putty. I WKHQ FRYHUHG WKH ORDGHUĹŞV SHULVFRSH ZLWK D TXDUWHU LQFK VTXDUH RI š VKHHW VW\UHQH 7KH JXQQHUĹŞV SHULVFRSH was cut out using an oval template from Eduard and then VDQGHG WR ĆƒW )LQDOO\ , XVHG D TXDUWHU LQFK SXQFK WR FXW a styrene sheet circle to cover the antenna port at the rear of the turret. On my prototype, the turret’s sight vane was cut down at some point. To recreate this, I made it from š SODVWLF VKHHW WULPPHG WR VL]H , DGGHG WKUHH VHW XS WDEV ZHUH FUHDWHG XVLQJ D PP SXQFK WR FXW WKHP RXW RI š VW\UHQH VKHHW 7KH ĆƒQDO LWHPV , DGGHG ZHUH WZR UDLVHG GHWDLOV UHODWHG WR WKH VHDUFKOLJKW 7KH ĆƒUVW is a cap for the searchlight cable and the second is the attachment mount for the searchlight itself. Both were PDGH IURP š DQG š VW\UHQH URGV

BUNKER The concrete bunker was scratchbuilt using styrene sheets. A fellow modeler provided me with an DSSUR[LPDWH VXUIDFH IRRWSULQW IRU WKH EXQNHUV RI Ĺś š [ Ĺś š ,Q WHUPV RI KHLJKW SKRWRV RI WKH EXQNHUV VKRZ VRPH QHDUO\ Ć„XVK ZLWK WKH JURXQG ZKLOH RWKHUV DUH DOPRVW IXOO\ H[SRVHG , EXLOW P\ EXQNHU ZLWK D TXDUWHU LQFK KHLJKW , XVHG D VLQJOH ODUJH SLHFH RI š VW\UHQH sheet that was cut, scored, and folded to create the bunker’s upper surface, sides, and rear. First, I laid out the overall pattern, including the side and rear tabs that would be folded, and cut it out as a single piece. I then gently scored along the fold lines. Finally, I was able to carefully bend the sides and rear down. The corner joints were backed with styrene angle iron for support and to provide a gluing surface. I added a support brace to my styrene sheet, ensuring that I didn’t install it where I’d need to cut out the turret ring. I created the front slope from spare styrene sheet and glued it in place.

The bunker assembled, I used a pencil to draft out the center alignment for creating the turret ring circle and WKHQ XVHG DQ ; $FWR FRPSDVV WR FUHDWH D š GLDPHWHU circle. As on the Dragon kit’s ring, I cut a small notch at the edge of the circle to allow the turret to be installed and remain both moveable and removable. I created a EXOOHW VSODVK IURP VWULSV RI š [ š VW\UHQH )LQDOO\ I added two small holes roughly where the bunker’s rear hatch was to be placed after painting.

HATCH , IRXQG WKH EXQNHUĹŞV KH[DJRQ KDWFK ZDV GLĆ…FXOW IRU me to construct. To start, I printed out hexagon templates to use as guide for cutting two hexagon shapes, one VOLJKWO\ VPDOOHU WKDQ WKH RWKHU IURP š VW\UHQH VKHHW I cut the shapes from the pictures, taped them to the styrene sheet, and used a metal ruler and hobby knife to score the shapes. Building the four hinges took a little trial and lots of error. I cut four VPDOO š VWULSV LQWR UHFWDQJOHV DERXW š LQ ZLGWK 8VLQJ D PP punch, I knocked out holes in the end of each rectangle WR DOORZ D š URG WR ĆƒW WKURXJK WKHP , WKHQ notched each rectangle into an L shape, with its hole centered in the L’s base. 7KH IRXU / VKDSHG UHFWDQJOHV ZHUH DWWDFKHG LQ SDLUV WR opposite sides of the smaller hexagon, their notched arms glued to the underside with the holed bases extending beyond the edge of the hexagon. This assembly was then attached to the top of the larger hexagon, which is used DV WKH EDVH RI WKH KDWFK , LQVHUWHG OHQJWKV RI š URG through the aligned holes of each pair of rectangles and WKHQ WULPPHG WKH URG Ć„XVK WKXV FUHDWLQJ D FRQYLQFLQJ looking hinge. To create the raised centerline split for WKH KDWFK , XVHG VTXDUH š VW\UHQH VWULS 7KH ĆƒQDO touch for the hatch was a set of handles. I created these from some spare coated wire, using the notches on the edge of my Master Tools Photo Etched Parts Bender to bring the wire into shape. The base and hatch are created from styrene sheets. A great number of small details can be created from the sheets with some imagination and a hobby knife.

36

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

DRAGON M4A4 SHERMAN // 1/35

PAINTING It’s an understatement to say that many armor PRGHOHUV KDYH EHHQ ZHDWKHULQJ ZLWK WKH KDLU VSUD\ WHFKQLTXH UHFHQWO\ >as featured on Tony Rivera’s Bronco Bishop build in the Spring 2015 issue of 604 – Ed.], so I was excited to try my hand at it while painting the turret and hatch. I might have been a bit too eager, as I GLGQĹŞW DGG D SULPHU FRDW ĆƒUVW 7KH ODFN RI SULPHU FDXVHG paint adhesion issues later in the process, so I wouldn’t recommend skipping this step. 7R VWDUW , ĆƒUVW VSUD\HG D FRDW RI 7DPL\D 5HG %URZQ ;) DV D EDVH FRORU , WKHQ DSSOLHG WZR FRDWV RI 75(6HPPÂŤ EUDQG 75(6 7ZR 8OWUD )LQH 0LVW +DLU 6SUD\ as recommended by Michael Rinaldi in his book, Tank Art. 2QFH WKH KDLU VSUD\ KDG GULHG , XVHG 9DOOHMR 0RGHO $LU ,QWHULRU *UHHQ WR FRYHU WKH WXUUHW DQG KDWFK $IWHU JLYLQJ WKH ,QWHULRU *UHHQ DERXW KRXUV WR GU\ , was ready to beginning the chipping process using tap ZDWHU D VWLĆ‚ EUXVK DQG DQ ROG WRRWKEUXVK , DGGHG D layer of standing water in a small section and let it sit for a bit. Then, using both brushes, I started scrubbing the area until I got the results I wanted. In a few cases, my exuberant chipping uncovered bare plastic, requiring subsequent touchups. I used these chipping mistakes to my advantage, supplementing the Red Brown touchups ZLWK 7DPL\D +XOO 5HG ;) WRXFKXSV WR SURYLGH VRPH YDULDWLRQV WR WKH UXVW FRORUHG SDWFKHV To create an appropriate concrete color, the bunker ZDV ĆƒUVW VSUD\HG ZLWK 7DPL\D 'DUN <HOORZ ;) 2YHU WKLV EDVH FRDW , XVHG D VHOHFWLRQ RI 9DOOHMR 0RGHO $LU JUD\V PL[HG LQ GLĆ‚HUHQW UDWLRV WR FUHDWH D YDULHW\ RI WRQHV $ORQJ ZLWK 0RGHO $LU :KLWH XVHG WR OLJKWHQ P\ PL[WXUHV , XVHG *HUPDQ *UH\ %DUOH\ *UH\ DQG 8. ([WHULRU 'DUN 6HD *UH\ 2QFH WKH KLJKOLJKWV KDG GULHG IRU D IHZ GD\V , WDSHG RĆ‚ WKH ZHOGHG EXOOHW VSODVK DQG VKRW LW ZLWK 7DPL\D 5HG %URZQ ;) I wanted to display the bunker on a small base with some basic scenery. I found an appropriate wooded base at a Michaels craft store. This base was sprayed ZLWK $002 RI 0LJ -LPHQH] . 5XVVLDQ %URZQ $ 0,* %HIRUH PRYLQJ RQ WKH WXUUHW KDWFK EXQNHU DQG base were all given a few thin coats of Taimya Deck Tan ;) WKLQQHG ZLWK 7DPL\D ; $ 7KLQQHU I glued the hatch onto Kit Used the bunker over the two Dragon alignment holes created

M4A4 Sherman 6FDOH 6WRFN

&KLSSLQJ UHĆ„HFWV WKH SDWLQD IRXQG RQ WKH DEDQGRQHG turret. Small details, like the rusty bullet splash and fallen leaves, create a sense of place on the small base.

earlier. The bunker was then attached to the wood base with Elmer’s Clear Glue. To cut down the glue's gloss ORRN , XVHG 9DOOHMR 6DWLQ 9DUQLVK WR EOHQG LW into its surroundings. For the base’s ground covering, I used Scenic Express’ Late Summer Savannah Grass mat. This turf mat was WULPPHG WR ĆƒW DQG DWWDFKHG ZLWK &OHDU *OXH , DGGHG some variety to the turf mat by adding random shoots of tall grass using Woodland Scenics’ Field Grass Light *UHHQ )* SURGXFW 3LHFHV RI JUDVV ZHUH UHPRYHG IURP WKH EDJ DQG WULPPHG WR GLĆ‚HUHQW OHQJWKV $ OLWWOH Clear Glue was then added to the bottom of the grasses to attach them to the base. The two saplings were found LQ WKH GULHG Ć„RZHU VHFWLRQ RI 0LFKDHOV 2QFH DJDLQ &OHDU *OXH ZDV XVHG WR DWWDFK WKHP LQ SODFH )RU D ĆƒQDO WRXFK , XVHG +XGVRQ $OOHQ 6WXGLR :RRGODQG 'HEULV mix, which includes an assortment of leaves and sticks, to bring the small vignette to life.

Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

37

1/48 // HASEGAWA BF 109 K-4

Once Upon a Vendor Room One modeler's lucky ´QG WXUQV LQWR D resin-rich project

by Joe Marranca

Modelers look upon their hobby with a true sense of opportunity. It can be found on every branch of the parts tree, in each drop of ink printed on clear carrier film, and even in a grainy photo of a tantalizing detail.

taken by the opportunity represented within this particular vendor’s room ĆƒQG VSRWWHG DPRQJVW WKH OHJLRQV RI RQFH DQG IXWXUH SURMHFWV 7KLV SRWHQWLDO LQ SODVWLF ZDV GHVWLQHG WR VWHS EH\RQG LWV LQMHFWLRQ PROGHG roots, enhanced by the True Details resin accessories lying in wait amongst the styrene trees. For nary D SHQQ\ PRUH WKDQ WKH PLJKW have brought when still wrapped in fresh cellophane, I had acquired an upgraded cockpit set and wheels along with my new opportunity. True Details’ resin cockpit set supplies detailed replacement parts for the instrument panel, gunsight, foot pedals, bomb control panel, control stick, the pilot’s seat (which LV DWWDFKHG WR WKH FRFNSLW Ć„RRU DQG the two side panels. While installing the resin cockpit takes additional HĆ‚RUW WKH H[WUD GHWDLO LW DGGV WR WKH ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHO ZLOO EH ZHOO ZRUWK LW 7KH ĆƒUVW VWHS LQ ZRUNLQJ ZLWK UHVLQ is to thoroughly wash it using warm soapy water, lightly scrubbing it with

an old toothbrush. Washing the parts removes any mold release agent that is left over from the casting process. If the release agent isn’t washed away, any paint applied to it will not adhere properly.

CLEANUP & FITTING The resin parts need to be removed from their pour blocks. Since resin is brittle, it might have cracked if I used a pair of snips to cut the parts IURP WKH EORFNV , XVHG P\ -/& UD]RU VDZ SXUFKDVHG IURP 800 86$ WR VDZ WKH SDUWV RĆ‚ 7KH VDZĹŞV FXW LVQĹŞW precise, so I ensured that I left some resin on the part which could be VDQGHG DZD\ ZLWK JULW ZHW GU\ VDQGSDSHU :KHQ VDQGLQJ Ć„DW SDUWV , SODFHG the sandpaper on glass WR HQVXUH D Ć„XVK OHYHO surface. The sanding also allowed hollow details, such as those found on the rudder pedals, to

O

pportunity drives us to collect the kits, decals, and accessories needed for our next endeavor long before any plastic is cut. Of course, the next opportunity that comes along often sends these previous best laid plans to the vendors’ tables and swap meets. While I certainly had an interest in +DVHJDZDŪV WDNH RQ WKH %I . LQ VFDOH , ZDV SHUKDSV PRUH

38

6FDOH 0RGHOLQJ 4XDUWHUO\ Summer 2015 604PDJ FRP

ONE OF MANY With its vast array of German FDPRXĆ„DJH VFKHPHV WKH %I LV D perennial favorite among modelers.

HASEGAWA BF 109 K-4 // 1/48

be exposed when the pour block they are mounted on is sanded away. For more complicated shapes or to remove mold seams and Ć„DVK PDWHULDO , WULPPHG the resin using a hobby knife. As part of the cleanup process, I also test ĆƒWWHG WKH SDUWV DJDLQVW each other to ensure that the joins would be tight. , FKHFNHG WKH ĆƒW EHWZHHQ the parts and the model as well to ensure they would drop into place during assembly. :LWK WHVW ĆƒWWLQJ , discovered that the resin cockpit could be installed through the bottom of the joined fuselage halves. As the upper portion of the

fuselage makes up part RI WKH ĹŞV FRFNSLW , decided to assemble the halves before painting. This allowed me to add a few scratchbuilt details to this prominent area and ensure the seams ZHUH VDQGHG Ć„XVK ZKLFK required a small amount of ĆƒOOHU WR WDNH FDUH RI VRPH very minor steps. After WKH WULPPLQJ DQG ĆƒWWLQJ to prepare for painting, all of the parts are once again submerged in warm soapy water and brushed with the old toothbrush to remove any residue previously missed or introduced from handling. This is a step that will save you a lot of potential grief.

&87 $1' &/($1 $ WRRWKEUXVK DQG VRDS\ ZDWHU FOHDQV RĆ‚ PROG UHOHDVH agents found on resin; a razor saw ensures clean cuts.

Kits sold with aftermarket accessories can be a great value.

1/48 // HASEGAWA BF 109 K-4

PAINTING To aid in handling, I mounted the parts to a piece of cardboard using masking tape. I mounted the smaller parts, such as the gunsight and the control stick, to toothpicks with superglue. The resin cockpit and fuselage cockpit sections were DLUEUXVKHG ZLWK 5/0 D EODFN JUD\ FRORU , DSSOLHG several light base coats; this method prevented the loss of any of the detail found on the resin parts. With the base coat applied and dried, I was ready to highlight the details of the resin cockpit using several paint techniques. I began by dry brushing a lighter shade of the base color over each of the parts. This step not only provides some initial weathering, but since the base is so dark, it provides the subsequent detail painting with a brighter

40

base color, thus ensuring these colors will appear ZLWK VXĆ…FLHQW EULJKWQHVV Further, I drybrushed these highlighted areas with white, picking out VRPH ĆƒQHU GHWDLOV ZLWK D brush. I followed the white (once dry) by drybrushing a variety of colors: yellow on the wiring, orange on the pilot’s harness padding and the boot of the control stick, and gray on the pilot harness. I also applied red, XVLQJ P\ ĆƒQH GHWDLO EUXVK WR WKH GLĆ‚HUHQW HPHUJHQF\ handles on the instrument panel. While the drybrushing brought out distinct details, I needed to distinguish the low lights, or shadows, of the various details. To do so, I applied a very thin acrylic wash of black to the panels, the cockpit tub, the instrument panel, and the breach cover. The acrylic wash

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

7(67 ),77,1* )81 :KLOH UHVLQ SDUWV RĆ‚HU H[FHSWLRQDO GHWDLO WKH\ DUH XVXDOO\ SDFNDJHG ZLWK D SRRU ĆƒW ,W V YLWDO WR WHVW ĆƒW HDFK SDUW $ JUHDW deal of trimming and sanding, of both the resin and kit, will HYHQWXDOO\ \LHOG DQ DFFHSWDEOH ĆƒW

Bringing out the cast detail requires some careful paint work. Drybrushing a series of highlights over the base coat and picking out details ZLWK D ĆƒQH EUXVK FDQ FUHDWH the stunning results seen in WKLV V FRFNSLW

is very controllable, but any excess must be cleaned from the part immediately after application or it will dry in place. After all of the detail painting was dry, I sprayed the parts with a coat RI Ć„DW YDUQLVK , XVHG DQ DUWLVW JUDGH *ROGHQ DFU\OLF YDUQLVK WKLQQHG ZLWK ZDWHU 6LQFH WKH Ć„DW YDUQLVK GXOOHG WKH VKHHQ RI WKH VLOYHU painted parts, such as seat harness buckles and clasps, I brushed these with a very light coat of acrylic silver paint to bring back their luster.

The underside of the kit's wing was improved to match the level of detailing found in the resin cockpit. Spent shell chutes and the lightening holes in the wheel wells are opened, and soda can aluminum creates internal details.

IT’S IN THE DETAILS Assembly of the cockpit tub was DFFRPSOLVKHG E\ FDUHIXOO\ ĆƒWWLQJ the side panels to the bottom of the tub and then applying a generous amount of superglue to the joins using a thin wire wrapped around a toothpick as an applicator. I used very thin superglue so that it would Ć„RZ LQWR WKH MRLQV PDNLQJ D WLJKWHU bond. I followed up the application of the superglue with an accelerator, making a quicker and stronger bond. ,Q P\ LQLWLDO WHVW ĆƒWWLQJ , KDG already found that the bottom of the cockpit tub would strike the wing. Before painting, I used a rotary tool with a drum sander attachment to sand away the fouling portions of the tub. After the cockpit assembly, , IRXQG WKDW , QHHGHG WR IXUWKHU ĆƒOH down the forward part of the tub assembly so that it would properly ĆƒW LQVLGH WKH IXVHODJH $QRWKHU SRVW DVVHPEO\ ĆƒW LVVXH , FDPH DFURVV ZDV the interference between the cockpit tub sidewalls and the instrument panel. I wound up having to trim the instrument panel along its sides to DOORZ WKH FRFNSLW WXE VLGHZDOOV WR ĆƒW between the fuselage and instrument SDQHO 2QFH , ZDV VDWLVĆƒHG WKDW DOO WKH

STICKY SUBJECTS Superglue is required to attach resin parts; modeling cements won't work. A thin wire wrapped around a toothpick makes an ideal superglue applicator. /DUJH JDSV EHWZHHQ SDUWV FDQ EH ĆƒOOHG LQ ZLWK VXSHUJOXH DV ZHOO

SDUWV ZRXOG ĆƒW WRJHWKHU ZLWKLQ WKH fuselage, I began gluing the cockpit assembly in place with superglue. I started with the instrument panel, followed by the installation of the cockpit tub. I glued the tub in place starting at its aft attachment points and working my way forward. A great deal of superglue was required WR ĆƒOO WKH JDSV EHWZHHQ WKH FRFNSLW tub and the fuselage sides, so I XVHG WKH VXSHUJOXHĹŞV ODUJH EXLOW in tip—unheard of in typical model FRQVWUXFWLRQ , DOVR DSSOLHG D

superglue accelerator to these areas to ensure a strong, quick bond. In keeping with the upgraded cockpit, I wanted to add some scratchbuilt detail to the bottom wing assembly. I hollowed out the lightening holes in the landing gear bays, applying a small sheet of aluminum (from a soda can) above each bay to give them more depth. I hollowed out the chutes for the machine gun’s spent shell casings and installed chutes for a more accurate look. Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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1/48 // HASEGAWA BF 109 K-4

BACK TO BASICS Proceeding with the build was as simple as following WKH NLWĹŞV LQVWUXFWLRQV $IWHU PXOWLSOH WHVW ĆƒWV HQVXULQJ the resin didn’t interfere, I glued the bottom wing to the fuselage assembly after installing the top wing assemblies. , ZDV FDUHIXO WR HQVXUH WKDW WKH WRS RI WKH ZLQJV ZHUH ĆƒW properly, aligning with the fairings along the fuselage to ZKLFK WKH\ MRLQHG , DOVR LQVWDOOHG WKH KRUL]RQWDO VWDELOL]HUV and ensured that they were mounted at a right angle to WKH YHUWLFDO VWDELOL]HU I took advantage of the fuselage’s required drying time to remove and clean smaller pieces still on the sprues. I clipped sprue attachment points, scraped and sanded mold seam lines away, and generally prepared the pieces to receive paint or to be installed on the model. %HIRUH SDLQWLQJ WKH IXVHODJH , ĆƒOOHG VRPH VPDOO JDSV and seams by applying small amounts of thickened acrylic SDLQW LQ SODFH RI WKH WUDGLWLRQDO ĆƒOOHUV $IWHU WKH WKLFNHQHG ĆƒOOHU SDLQW ZDV GU\ , VDQGHG LW Ć„XVK ZLWK LWV VXUURXQGLQJ SDUWV ZLWK JULW VDQGSDSHU , UHVFULEHG VRPH RI WKH lost surface detail with my hobby knife. I installed the forward potion of the canopy since it was to be painted DORQJ ZLWK WKH IXVHODJH 7KLV HQVXUHG D VWHS IUHH installation. I temporarily installed the model’s slats using white glue; later, this would allow them to be painted DORQJ ZLWK WKH RYHUDOO FDPRXĆ„DJH DSSOLFDWLRQ HQVXULQJ a consistent pattern across these parts. Finally, I wiped down the model using a paper towel moistened with diluted isopropyl alcohol; this removed any oils deposited from my handling of the kit, which could interfere with the adhesion of paint.

7R DYRLG ĆƒOOLQJ VXUIDFH GHWDLOV QR SULPHU ZDV XVHG Preshading was applied directly to the plastic (below).

Camo colors were applied only where needed. This avoided layering paint that would cover detail (below).

GERMAN CAMOUFLAGE To preserve the detail of the kit, instead of priming the entire model, I decided to jump directly into the preshading step of painting, relying on the applied paint lines to show DQ\ Ć„DZV LQ WKH ERG\ZRUN , KDG SHUIRUPHG , FKRVH WR XVH 5/0 IRU P\ SUHVKDGLQJ LWV RĆ‚ EODFN FRORU ZRXOG DOORZ IRU D PRUH VXEWOH HĆ‚HFW RQ WKLV ODWH SURGXFWLRQ DLUIUDPH than black would and, as a bonus, it was the appropriate base coat for my masked canopy, showing through as the correct color for the cockpit’s interior. 2I WKH EDVH H[WHULRU FRORUV WKH ĆƒUVW WR EH DSSOLHG ZDV 5/0 D EOXH JUD\ DSSOLHG WR WKH ERWWRP RI WKH DLUSODQH DQG WR WKH VLGHV RI WKH IXVHODJH ,Q DQ HĆ‚RUW WR SUHVHUYH the kit’s detail, I was careful to apply the color only to the areas that would remain this color after the painting was

42

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

Hard transitions between colors were added using Post-It note masks. Mottling was applied free-hand.

HASEGAWA BF 109 K-4 // 1/48

ĆƒQLVKHG , GLGQĹŞW ZDQW WRR PXFK SDLQW WR EXLOG XS RQ WKH PRGHO $IWHU WKH 5/0 ZDV GU\ , PDVNHG RĆ‚ WKH KDUG HGJHV ĆƒUVW XVLQJ WKH RSDTXH YHUVLRQ RI 6FRWFK WDSH cutting the hard edges with a hobby knife. This didn’t ZRUN WRR ZHOO VR , GHFLGHG WKDW SUH PDVNLQJ WKH OLQHV was too much of a hassle; I started painting freehand with the intention of masking the hard edges later. )RU WKH UHPDLQLQJ FRORUV 5/0 D GDUN JUHHQ DQG ROLYH GUDE , FURVV UHIHUHQFHG WKH LQVWUXFWLRQ VKHHW against IPMS Stockholm’s website featuring equivalency charts comparing the modern FS colors to those found on *HUPDQ DLUFUDIW DURXQG WKH WLPH RI P\ ĹŞV SURGXFWLRQ :KLOH XVLQJ DQ XQ FDOLEUDWHG FRPSXWHU PRQLWRU WR match colors is challenging, I eventually settled on what I thought were reasonable colors. I ultimately found my ĆƒUVW PL[ RI 5/0 XQVDWLVI\LQJ DIWHU , KDG DSSOLHG LW VR I diluted it with additional gray and reapplied it. $IWHU DSSO\LQJ WKH FDPRXĆ„DJH FRORUV IUHHKDQG , used thinly cut strips of masking tape to go back and PDVN WKH KDUG HGJHV VXFK DV WKH 5/0 RQ WKH VLGHV of the fuselage near the cockpit, and resprayed these areas. I knew I didn’t want to use the kit’s decals for the campaign band around the fuselage; I mixed paint, matching the color to the decal, and applied the band with an airbrush. For the green mottling on the sides RI WKH IXVHODJH , XVHG DQ DLU SUHVVXUH RI SVL RQ P\ airbrush and carefully applied the mottles by allowing RQO\ D VPDOO Ć„RZ RI SDLQW 7KLV SURGXFHG ĆƒQH OLQHV WKDW matched the instruction’s painting guide. I touched up RYHUVSUD\ DQG PLVWDNHV XVLQJ 5/0 DQG WKH VDPH DLU pressure setting for my brush. $IWHU WKH ĆƒUVW OD\HUV RI SDLQW ZHUH DSSOLHG WR WKH PRGHO , VSUD\HG LW ZLWK D PL[WXUH RI )XWXUH >currently marketed as Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish] WKLQQHG ZLWK LVRSURS\O DOFRKRO WR SURWHFW WKH SDLQW while I handled the model during subsequent decaling, GHWDLO SDLQWLQJ VWHSV DQG ĆƒQDO DVVHPEO\ Noticing a few spots that needed to be touched up, I carefully masked around these blemishes using either 3RVW ,W QRWHV RU PDVNLQJ WDSH FXW WR VKDSH WR DYRLG overspray. I loaded my airbrush with a few drops of the color I wanted to apply, and still using a low pressure WR FUHDWH D ĆƒQH SDLQW SDWWHUQ , WRXFKHG XS WKH GHIHFWV using thin lines, strokes, or irregular circles to feather the edges of the touchup paint into the surrounding paintwork. After the touchups were complete, I applied another coat of thinned Future to create a gloss base for the application of decals.

DECALING Decaling has evolved into a process for me. Gone are the days of just sliding decals onto the surface of the model and allowing them to dry. I use Microscale solutions for proper setting. The water used to moisten the decals must be warm and contain a drop of dish soap to help with the positioning of sticky decals, and I rely RQ VSHFLĆƒF WRROV SDSHU WRZHOV FRWWRQ VZDEV VFLVVRUV a hobby knife, a paintbrush, etc. Despite the process, it’s still a fun step. The decals for this model were drawn from YDULRXV /XIWZDĆ‚H VKHHWV VLQFH , ZDVQĹŞW TXLWH VDWLVĆƒHG with the white found on the markings supplied with the kit. I applied the decals by soaking a cut out marking in the prepared warm water and allowing it to thoroughly moisten for a few minutes on top of a paper towel. Once the decal was able to slide on the backing paper, I applied Micro Set setting solution to the model where WKH GHFDO ZDV JRLQJ WR EH SODFHG DQG VOLG LW RĆ‚ WKH SDSHU onto the model using the brush to position it. When in place, I smoothed the decal out with the brush and used a cotton swab to push out excess setting solution and any air trapped under the still wet decal. After the decal dried somewhat, I applied Micro Sol to ensure that the FDUULHU ĆƒOP RI WKH GHFDO PHOWHG DZD\ DOORZLQJ WKH GHFDO WR VHWWOH LQWR VXUIDFH GHWDLOV EHORZ 'HFDOLQJ WKH took the better part of a morning; however, I continued to check the model throughout the day to ensure that the decals all settled. I found a few decals which needed

THE PROCESS Gathering all of the required tools and sticking to a familiar process makes successful decaling easier. Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

43

1/48 // HASEGAWA BF 109 K-4

additional solution brushed on them, as well as some that required trimming or cutting to get them to sink into the panel lines—notably, the crosses on the tops of the wings ZKHUH WKH FDUULHU ĆƒOP H[WHQGHG LQWR WKH VODW DUHD , GLG WKLV cutting with a new hobby knife blade gently dragged along the panel line.

WEATHERING To protect the decals once they had dried, I sprayed a coat of thinned Future over the model and allowed it to dry overnight. In addition to protecting the decals, the glossy Future coat provides an ideal base for weathering the model. My weathering consisted of applying a very thin oil wash made of black and brown oil paints mixed with DERXW ORZ RGRU PLQHUDO VSLULWV , W\SLFDOO\ XVH D FRWWRQ swab to mix the paints into the thinner. Once I created a KRPRJHQHRXV PL[WXUH , DSSOLHG LW WR WKH PRGHO XVLQJ D ĆƒQH brush. The amount of time that I leave a wash on the model GHSHQGV RQ WKH H[WHQW RI ZHDWKHULQJ RU WKH GHVLUHG HĆ‚HFW , DP DWWHPSWLQJ WR DFKLHYH ,Q WKH FDVH RI WKH %I . , ZDQWHG WR OLJKWO\ ZHDWKHU WKH PRGHO VLQFH LW ZDV D ODWH ZDU example. To this end, I removed any excess wash as soon as it was applied. Once the oil wash was applied to the entire model and the excess removed, I allowed it to dry overnight.

FINAL ASSEMBLY I had been working on the propeller assembly throughout the build. It was straightforward except for the addition RI WKH GHFDO WR UHSUHVHQW WKH VZLUO RQ WKH VSLQQHU , ĆƒUVW attempted to apply a decal from another manufacturer’s NLW EXW ZDVQĹŞW VXFFHVVIXO DV WKHVH GHFDOV DUH VSHFLĆƒFDOO\ GHVLJQHG IRU HDFK NLWĹŞV VSHFLĆƒF VSLQQHU JHRPHWU\ , VZLWFKHG EDFN WR WKH NLW VXSSOLHG GHFDO DQG LW LPPHGLDWHO\ VHWWOHG down correctly on the spinner. Final assembly of the model consisted of supergluing DOO RI WKH GLĆ‚HUHQW VPDOO FRPSRQHQWV WR WKH PDLQ IXVHODJH assembly, using superglue accelerator where it made sense. To attach the resin wheels to the landing gear, I used gel superglue, which allowed me a little extra time to adjust the wheels in position on their axles. Resin wheels often exaggerate the bulge of the tires WR VLPXODWH WKH HĆ‚HFW RI ZHLJKW RQ Kit Used WKH WLUH JHWWLQJ WKH Ć„DW ERWWRPV Hasegawa Ć„XVK ZLWK WKH JURXQG FDQ EH WULFN\ Bf 109 K-4 and the gel superglue is a great 6FDOH solution. For the spinner, I didn’t 6WRFN install the rod that it was supposed

44

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

FINAL TOUCHES Decaling complete, the model is coated in Future DQG JLYHQ D WKLQ RLO ZDVK EHIRUH ĆƒQDO DVVHPEO\

HASEGAWA BF 109 K-4 // 1/48

Hassle Free Printing We Take Printing Seriously‌Not Ourselves.

THE OFFICE The Bf 109's side-hinged canopy allows the resin cockpit detail and paint work to be easily viewed.

to be mounted to, but instead used a cut piece of stock SODVWLF 7KLV DOORZHG IRU D WLJKWHU ĆƒW RI WKH VSLQQHU WR the fuselage at the expense of not having a spinner that ZRXOG VSLQ 7KH PRGHO ZDV ĆƒQLVKHG ZLWK D Ć„DW DUWLVW JUDGH YDUQLVK PL[HG ZLWK ZDWHU , DSSOLHG VHYHUDO coats. I applied a coat of satin varnish to the wheels using a regular paintbrush. With the clear coats applied, , UHPRYHG WKH PDVNV IURP WKH FOHDU SDUWV DQG , ĆƒQLVKHG the build by attaching the canopy. This vendor’s table purchase was a great opportunity WR ZRUN ZLWK D UHVLQ FRFNSLW 0XOWL PHGLD NLWV VHHP WR become more prevalent every year, and I’m glad to have some experience under my belt for my next opportunity. +DVHJDZDĹŞV %I . RĆ‚HUHG LWV RZQ RSSRUWXQLWLHV ,W PD\ EH FOLFKÂŤ EXW LWĹŞV WUXH WKDW WKH GLĆ‚HUHQW DQG XQLTXH SDLQW VFKHPHV RI WKH /XIWZDĆ‚H DUH DQ DWWUDFWLRQ DOO WKHLU RZQ HQVXULQJ WKH ZLOO DOZD\V UHPDLQ D modeling favorite and the perfect chance to stretch your airbrushing skills.

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CLASSIFIEDS ,I \RX ZRXOG OLNH WR VHH \RXU VWRUH OLVWLQJ RU FODVVLĆƒHG DG LQ SMQ SOHDVH FRQWDFW DGV#604PDJ FRP Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

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smq

// SCRATCHBUILT STARFIGHTER

Return to a Galaxy Far, Far Away

1

One modeler practices custom part casting in honor of the new Star Wars movie. by Joe Marranca

Wow! A new Star Wars movie is going to be in the cinema before the end of the year! I can remember as a child when the first movie premiered; the excitement and imagination ignited by Star Wars prompted the young modeler in me to build as many Star Wars models as I could get my hands on: TIE fighters, X-wings, and more.

2 5 4

W

ith the recent releases of the animated Star Wars: The Clone Wars and Star Wars Rebels 79 VHULHV new dimensions of the Star Wars universe have been opened up to fans. A rich and embellished mythos has evolved that LQFOXGHV PXOWLWXGHV RI ZHOO ZRUQ KDUGZDUH WR VHUYH DV VRXUFH PDWHULDO IRU VFL Ćƒ PRGHOHUV LQ D JDOD[\ IDU IDU DZD\ $OWKRXJK PRVW RI WKH VWDUĆƒJKWHUV SRUWUD\HG LQ WKH PRYLHV DQG series are available to model in one scale or another, the depth of the universe hints at predecessors to the models that are highlighted in the movies. In fact, we are treated to some of those, such as the = +HDGKXQWHU LQ YLGHR JDPHV DQG $5& ĆƒJKWHUV LQ (SLVRGH , ZDQWHG PRGHO D ĆƒJKWHU FRQWHPSRUDU\ WR WKH = $V QRQH RI these currently exist in kit form, I was faced with building a model IURP VFUDWFK WKH ĆƒUVW WLPH ,ĹŞYH WDNHQ RQ VXFK D FKDOOHQJH I started my scratchbuilding project by looking at some of the movie concept art that can be found online. I found inspiration in D IRUZDUG VZHSW ZLQJ )6: YHUVLRQ RI WKH = ZLWK RYHUVL]HG engines. Since the layout of the ship was somewhat symmetrical,

46

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

7

SCRATCHBUILT STARFIGHTER //

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it was going to involve fabrication of identical parts, such as the engines. I’ve made some small parts before using resin casting as a technique, so I decided to do the same here.

CASTING ENGINES

3 6

8

7KH ĆƒUVW VWHS LQ SURGXFLQJ PXOWLSOH GXSOLFDWH SDUWV ZKHQ FDVWLQJ is to create a master. As with the creation of the original Star Wars ĆƒOPLQJ PRGHOV , VFURXQJHG WKURXJK P\ VSDUHV ER[HV IRU SDUWV WKDW ORRNHG OLNH WKH\ ZRXOG EH SDUW RI D VWDUĆƒJKWHUĹŞV HQJLQH 7KHVH LQFOXGHG LQWDNHV IURP DQ $ NLW D 0L* H[KDXVW QR]]OH WDQN WUHDG OLQNV DQG SDUWV IURP VFDOH VKLS PRGHOV $ORQJ ZLWK ZLUHV RI YDULRXV VL]HV WKHVH SDUWV ZHUH JOXHG WRJHWKHU XVLQJ cyanoacrylate (CA, or superglue) or plastic cement (if both parts were made from styrene) until they resembled something that Anakin Skywalker would be proud to have power his podracer on Tatooine. Since I was going to be using a resin casting process to GXSOLFDWH WKH DVVHPEO\ , ĆƒOOHG DQ\ JDSV WKDW PLJKW FDXVH WKH PDVWHU WR EH HQWUDSSHG ZKLOH FUHDWLQJ D PROG 7R FUHDWH PROGV , ĆƒUVW QHHGHG WR EXLOG ER[HV ZKLFK ZRXOG IRUP the exteriors of the molds by containing the liquid rubber when I poured it over the assemblies to be duplicated. I built each box out RI /HJR EXLOGLQJ EORFNV HQVXULQJ WKH ER[HV ZHUH MXVW VOLJKWO\ WDOOHU WKDQ WKH PRGHO SDUWV ZLWK DW OHDVW D TXDUWHU LQFK FOHDUDQFH between the sides of the engine assemblies and their box when WKH SDUWV ZHUH SRVLWLRQHG LQVLGH , JOXHG WKH PRGHO SDUWV WR D plate of glass (from a picture frame) to ensure that air trapped in WKH SDUWV ZRXOGQĹŞW FDXVH WKHP WR Ć„RDW WR WKH VXUIDFH RI WKH OLTXLG rubber. I then tacked the Lego boxes in place with CA, ensuring that each part remained centered in the box. , XVHG 6PRRWK 2Q 22022 FDVWLQJ UXEEHU WR FUHDWH WKH molds (4). I mixed it following the provided instructions and poured it into the molds. Pouring was done from as high above the mold boxes as practical, using a stir stick as a guide and allowing it to IRUP D WKLQ VWULQJ $GGLQJ WKH UXEEHU LQ WKLV PDQQHU DOORZV DLU entrapped during the mixing process to escape so it won’t form bubbles in the mold. Bubbles that form against the master would subsequently result in unwanted protrusions forming on the new SDUWV XSRQ GXSOLFDWLRQ , OHW WKH SRXUHG PROGV FXUH RYHUQLJKW Removing the master assemblies from the cured molds can be an involved and tedious process in the best of cases, but the removal SURFHVV ZDV PDGH PRUH GLĆ…FXOW LQ WKLV LQVWDQFH VLQFH WKH VKDSH RI the engine exhausts acted as suction cups, not allowing the molds WR EH UHOHDVHG 8OWLPDWHO\ , KDG WR FXW DORQJ WKH VLGHV RI WKH PROGV with my hobby knife, being careful to make curved lines so that the mold halves would line up when using them to cast parts. The cuts allowed me to carefully and slowly pull the masters from the molds ZLWKRXW WKH VXFWLRQ IRUFHV WHDULQJ WKH UXEEHU PROG Scale Modeling Quarterly SMQmag.com // Summer 2015

47

smq

// SCRATCHBUILT STARFIGHTER

Casting the resin parts was as simple as measuring WZR HTXDO SDUWV RI 6PRRWK 2QĹŞV FDVWLQJ UHVLQ LQ separate disposable cups. I then mixed part A into part B and stirred them together for about three minutes. After , ZDV FRQĆƒGHQW WKDW WKH\ ZHUH PL[HG WRJHWKHU ZHOO , simply poured the liquid resin into the rubber molds, which I held together with rubber bands. Since the GHWDLOV , ZDV GXSOLFDWLQJ ZHUHQĹŞW SDUWLFXODUO\ ĆƒQH DQG WKH parts were rather large when it comes to resin casting, I didn’t go through any elaborate mold preparation steps. After pouring, I allowed the castings to sit for at least PLQXWHV DOORZLQJ WKH UHVLQ WLPH WR FXUH 2QFH WKH parts had initially cured, I removed them from the molds and allowed the parts to sit overnight to ensure they ZHUH FXUHG FRPSOHWHO\ , XVHG D UD]RU VDZ WR UHPRYH WKH SRXU VWXEV IURP WKH SDUWV DQG WKHQ ĆƒQLVKHG XS ZLWK VDQGSDSHU WR UHPRYH DQ\ Ć„DVK DORQJ WKH PROG VHDPV and smooth surface irregularities.

SUM OF THE PARTS The cast engines are attached to a fuselage created largely from sheet styrene detailed with spare parts.

BODY BUILDING With my engine assemblies duplicated in resin, I could FDUU\ RQ ZLWK FUHDWLQJ P\ )6: YDULDQW RI WKH = , assembled the aft fuselage from sheet styrene and other bits and pieces that I found in my spares box. Since the engines were made from resin and the aft fuselage assembly and engine mounts were made from sheet styrene, I had to use CA as an adhesive to bond the DVVHPEOLHV WRJHWKHU 7R VWDUW , UDQ D EHDG RI JHO W\SH CA glue along the engine mount and positioned it along the side of one of the engines. Once it was positioned SURSHUO\ , DSSOLHG VRPH &$ DFFHOHUDWRU WR LW WR Ćƒ[ WKH glue. After this bond dried, I then ran a bead of thin CA along the top and bottom of the joint to reinforce it. For the other engine, I repeated the mounting procedure, ensuring that the mounts were aligned. I also began to add detail to the aft fuselage assembly, trying to use plastic items so that I could use model cement to tack the parts in place, followed by an application of liquid cement as a permanent adhesive. With the engines mounted, I installed the wings using the same CA applications. Then I joined the forward DQG DIW IXVHODJH VHFWLRQV WRJHWKHU ĆƒUVW XVLQJ &$ DQG DFFHOHUDWRU WR LQLWLDOO\ Ćƒ[ WKH WZR DVVHPEOLHV WRJHWKHU Once cured, I then reinforced this join by using liquid cement to install styrene shims between the assemblies. Once the assemblies were dried, I shaped a nose IRU WKH VWDUĆƒJKWHU XVLQJ WZR SDUW HSR[\ , PL[HG WKH

48

Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

NOSE JOB Two-part epoxy created a pointed nose. It's sanded LQWR LWV ĆƒQDO VKDSH ZLWK D 'UHPHO DQG VDQGSDSHU

9 epoxy together and shaped it to roughly match pictures RI DQ ; ZLQJ , VHW WKH PRGHO DVLGH RYHUQLJKW WR DOORZ the epoxy putty to cure, I used my Dremel tool with a rotary sanding drum mounted to shape the rough nose RI WKH VWDUĆƒJKWHU FORVHU WR WKH ĆƒQDO VKDSH ZKLFK ZDV ultimately achieved with sandpaper and elbow grease. With the basic shaping of the model complete, I started on the paintwork. I applied an initial coat of SULPHU WR KLJKOLJKW DQ\ YLVLEOH Ć„DZV LQ WKH FRQVWUXFWLRQ that would require attention before color coats were DSSOLHG DQG RK ER\ ZHUH WKHUH Ć„DZV , ZRUNHG RQ WKHVH DUHDV E\ DSSO\LQJ ĆƒOOHU VDQGLQJ ZKHQ GU\ SULPLQJ DQG

SCRATCHBUILT STARFIGHTER //

WKHQ UHSHDWLQJ WKH HQWLUH SURFHVV XQWLO DOO RI WKH Ć„DZV WKDW , FRXOG ĆƒQG ZHUH DGGUHVVHG During the priming process, I also fabricated a set of landing gear. I made these by assembling struts made from Evergreen styrene rod, tubing, and sheet cut into small rectangles. I also coiled some wire around the rod to simulate a spring device that would be needed to cushion hard landings. I installed the landing gear into VRFNHWV PDGH IURP VW\UHQH WXEHV FXW WR JLYH WKH ĆƒJKWHU LWV OHJV DQG DFW DV D EDVH ZKLOH SDLQWLQJ Moving on to painting the color coats, I started with a light gray color and then applied a blue color to some areas of the wings and the fuselage. Since I envisioned WKH VKLS EHORQJLQJ WR D PRUH VFUXĆ‚\ ORRNLQJ URXJH type character from the Star Wars universe, I allowed for overspray of some of the marking colors and avoided crisp demarcation lines in general. To achieve this look, I used paper as a mask while airbrushing. I also applied some raised details, made from lead foil and attached using white glue, which I hand painted in blue. These ZHUH WKHQ DLUEUXVKHG ZLWK D ĆƒQH PLVW RI JUD\ WR UHGXFH the contrast. While the initial painting imparted a basic weathered look, I felt the model needed more; after all, George Lucas did want the Star Wars XQLYHUVH WR KDYH D OLYHG LQ look. To this end, I applied a dark gray wash of acrylic paint over the entire model. The wash had been thinned heavily with water, and I ensured that I used just enough

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paint to allow the wash to sink into its recessed detail. I also applied very thin streaks of dark gray and black to WKH Ć„DW SDQHOV RI WKH ZLQJV DQG IXVHODJH WR GHSLFW GLUW and grime. After the wash was dry, I installed the blaster canons and began work on the canopy. I built a canopy frame from sheet styrene, painted it, and made clear panes from the top of a yogurt container. I sprayed a coat of Ć„DW RYHU WKH HQWLUH PRGHO DQG WKHQ LQVWDOOHG WKH FDQRS\ using CA. $V D ĆƒQDO WRXFK , QHHGHG WR FUHDWH DQ DVWURPHFK droid. I cut the tip from an aircraft spinner, replacing it ZLWK D Ć„DW SLHFH RI VW\UHQH WR FUHDWH WKH WRS RI WKH GURLG I then painted it light gray and used spare decals to create the colored markings and sensors on the droid’s head. I installed the astromech droid’s head onto the model and considered this project complete. The Star Wars universe served as an ideal inspiration for trying my hand at scratchbuilding. The universe’s featured ships and vehicles gave me some needed JXLGDQFH WR FUHDWH D VWDUĆƒJKWHU WKDW VHHPHG SODXVLEOH ZKLOH LWV ĆƒFWLRQDO QDWXUH IUHHG PH IURP WU\LQJ WR perfectly recreate an existing machine. It is this combination of freedom and guidance that truly makes VFL Ćƒ VFUDWFKEXLOGLQJ SURMHFWV WKH SHUIHFW SODFH WR VWDUW With the experience you’ll gain, you’ll be ready to move RQ WR UHSOLFDWLQJ UHDO ZRUOG VXEMHFWV LQ QR WLPH QR NLW UHTXLUHG

Model Info Star Wars

Z-95 FSW Concept Scratchbuilt Cast Resin, Styrene

6FDOH 0RGHOLQJ 4XDUWHUO\ 604PDJ FRP Summer 2015

49

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// UPCOMING EVENT

A Show with a Purpose East Coast Modelers Exhibition/Fund Raiser by Matthew Cottrell

On April 18, 2015, the first East Coast Modelers Exhibition/ Fund Raiser will be held at the Kiwanis Recreation Center in Fayetteville, NC.

Conceived by Dave Bullock, a wooden ship modeler, the event was originally a meet up for maritime modelers. However, with Dave’s desire to use the event to raise funds for a military charity, the event has taken on a life of its own. Now open to all modelers and any subjects,

Kiwanis Recreation Center, 352 Devers St, Fayetteville, NC

the Lafayette Scale Modelers, Fayetteville’s IPMS chapter have stepped in to help Dave keep the event on track. Dave has selected the Gary Sinise Foundation as the recipient of the money raised at this event. In their own words, they “serve our nation by honoring our defenders, veterans, ĆƒUVW UHVSRQGHUV WKHLU IDPLOLHV DQG those in need.â€? The local community has also stepped up: Lowe's Home Improvement stores and PepsiCo are sponsoring the event. The exhibition is free for modelers displaying their work, while public DGPLVVLRQ LV 6HWXS IRU PRGHOHUV EHJLQV DW D P DQG SXEOLF DGPLVVLRQV EHJLQ DW D P 7KH H[KLELWLRQ UXQV XQWLO S P 0RGHOHUV are encouraged to show their best work. While the exhibition won’t feature a contest, the public can vote for best in show winners. The fund raiser portion of the event includes a sealed bid auction IRU VHYHUDO ĆƒQLVKHG PRGHOV LQFOXGLQJ 'DYH V VFDOH ZRRGHQ PRGHO RI

the 0D\ƄRZHU. A live auction held at S P ZLOO VHH GRQDWHG XQEXLOW NLWV cross the block. In addition to the auctions, Dave’s Lifeboats For Warriors project will be selling completed wooden lifeboat models. This is a pilot program aimed at teen groups, like parks department youth programs. The small kits are a perfect introduction to modeling. They can be built during IRXU RQH KRXU FODVVHV )LQLVKHG NLWV are sold at local events, the procedes going to a military charity of the group’s choice. More information can be found at www.l4wproject.com or by contacting GDYH O ZSURMHFW# gmail.com. If you’re able to make it to H[KLELWLRQ RQ $SULO WK LW SURPLVHV to be a wonderful chance to meet your fellow modelers while helping raise money for the Gary Sinise Foundation. In addition, if you have a completed model you’d be willing to donate for the auction, please contact Dave before the event at GDYH O ZSURMHFW#JPDLO FRP.

WON'T BE ABLE TO MAKE THE EXHIBITION? YOU CAN STILL HELP! Complete, unbuilt kits can donated before April 18th by sending them to: Dave Bullock, 501 Kensington Street, Lumberton, NC 28358

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Scale Modeling Quarterly Summer 2015 // SMQmag.com

SECTION SE EC CT TIO ON T TITLE ITL IT LE E //// 11/700 /700 /7 00 00

Scale S Scal Sc Sca cale le Modeling Model Mod Mo d ling deli de ing g Quarterly Quart Qu artter errlly erl SMQmag.com // Summerr 20 2015 015

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